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Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 839

It's becoming more and more ex- over bit. This will enable them to fit frames, then remove the front rail
pensive these days to own good the mortises in the back rails. while you install the side cleats.
handcrafted furniture. This project 8. Sand all pieces smooth with 150- Glue the front rail in place after
enables you to make your own grit paper. Dry-assemble the arm that.
armchair at a fraction of the retail chair to check for fit. 12. Fit the back cleat in place
cost. What's more, you'll be sure of 9. Assemble the side frames. Begin against the tail ends of the side
the craftsmanship and quality, be- by fitting the side rails between the cleats, making their upper edges
cause you made it yourself. legs, then install the side panels flush. Fasten the back cleat to the
1. Cut the pieces to size according and the arms. Use glue in all joints side cleats using #10 x 2-1/4" flat-
to the dimensions given. When and clamp until dry. head wood screws set in pilot holes
ripping the back cleat (L) to width, 10. Fit the slats between the top counterbored to a depth of at least
cut a 16° bevel on the ripped edge. and bottom back rails. Fasten the 1/2".
Also, cut tapers on the ends of the rails to the stiles using glue and 13. Hold the back frame in posi
back supports (K) as shown. dowels. Clamp and set aside for the tion between the sides with its
2. Drill 1-3/8"-deep x i"-wide x glue to dry. lower rail pressed firmly against
2-1/4"-long mortises in the arms 11. Assemble the front rail and the the back cleat. Mark the side
(A) and legs (B) as shown. Remove side frames using glue in the mor frames along the rear edge of the
any excess stock with a hand chisel. tise and tenon joints. Clamp the back. Remove the back frame and
3. Use a router or hand chisel to assembly, then immediately install install the back supports using glue
make the 1/2"-deep x 3/8"-wide x the front (M) and side (N) cleats. and #8x1-1/4" flathead wood
2-1/2"-long mortises in the edges Butt the side cleats against the back screws, countersunk or slightly
of the back rails (G, H). Leave the of the front rail and set them 1/16" counterbored. Then fasten the
corners round. to 1/8" below the upper edges of back frame in place by running
4. Mark the locations for cutting the side rails. Drill pilot holes coun- screws through its bottom rail into
tenons in the ends of the side rails terbored at least 1/4" deep, then the back cleat and through the
(C), front rail (E), and back rails. To fasten the cleats to the frames us supports into its stiles.
mark, score the wood with a knife ing glue and #10 x 2-1/4" flathead 14. Doallfinalsanding,thenfinish
to prevent splintering. wood screws. If you prefer, dry as the chair frame as desired.
5. Use a dado blade to cut the 1"- semble the frames and rail while 15. When the finish has dried,
thick x 2-1/4"-wide x 1-1/4"-long drilling pilot holes in the cleats and mount band irons to the cleats
tenons. with
6. Drill dowel holes in the arms,
side rails, side panels (D), and back
stiles (F), and rails. Drill these holes
1" deep.
7. Round the side edges of the
slats (J) with a router and rounding

Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 840

#6 x 3/4" panhead screws. Do not 17. Stretch the strips across to the
screw the irons tight against the other side, and feed the end be
cleats; leave a 1/16" gap to pull the tween the iron and cleat. Pull tight,
rubber webbing through. 16. then double the ends over and
Mark the proper spacing of the tack. Repeat this procedure for
rubber webbing strips. Starting on stretching the strips from front to
one side, pull one strip through, back. Remember to interweave the
double the end over, and tack fast. webbing as shown.
Repeat for each strip. 18. Buy or make cushions to fit

Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions 841