Climber Dies in Fall From El Cap's East Ledges

16-Mar-2017
By
Jeff Jackson

Yosemite Valley, California.

Yosemite Valley, California.
At around 7 p.m. on September 5, Christopher Vale, a junior at Dartmouth College, and his
partner (who wished to remain anonymous) topped out the West Face (IV 5.11c) on El Capitan,
traversed along the top of the wall and began the East Ledges descent: the quickest and most
popular way to descend El Cap. The two reached the East Ledges rappels, a series of four
raps, at about 8 p.m. It was dark and Vale was moving faster than his partner, who later
described arriving at the top fixed line just as Vale was yelling, Off rappel.
In an interview with Yosemite climbing rangers, Vales partner said that eight seconds later he
heard crashing, looked down and saw that Vales headlamp had disappeared. He yelled and
yelled but got no response. At 8:30 Vales partner called 911, and the dispatcher alerted
Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR).

YOSAR scrambled a hasty team that rallied to the base of the East Ledges rappels, where
they found Vales lifeless body.
ANALYSIS

The YOSAR team found that Vales ATC had an unanchored blue rope rigged through it and
surmised the rope or anchor had failed, but Vales partner reported that all the raps were fixed
no lines were missing. According to Yosemite head climbing ranger Brandon Latham, YOSAR
later learned that a climber descending the East Ledges a few days before had noticed the first
(top) fixed rope was in bad shape. He and his partner decided to replace the old cord with one
of their own ropes. The climber who had not yet descended cut the bad rope and threw it down
to his partner below to coil, but the rope hooked over a flake and tangled in a tree. After
wrestling with the stuck rope, the team abandoned it. Over the next several days, other parties
rappelled past the stuck rope but left it hanging within reach.

Although it is impossible to know exactly what transpired with Vale, Latham hypothesized that
he might have rappelled to a ledge just short of the next set of anchors. Seeing the blue cord
within reach, he might have presumed it was the next fixed line and transferred onto it without
confirming that it was anchored. At some point the line wrenched free, and Vale fell to his death.

PREVENTION

Take responsibility for your own safety, and dont blindly trust fixed gear. Fixed ropes and slings
are always suspect and often in bad condition. This accident would have been prevented if Vale
and his partner had rigged their own rappels. Popular areas like Yosemite are littered with old tat
and cords, and climbers often use them with impunitybut sometimes this old trash fails.

The fixed ropes adorning the East Ledges rappels are convenient, but they can be particularly
manky. If you choose to use fixed gearwhether it is ropes or slings or that rusted pininspect
it first. In this case the climbers were starting at the top and had the opportunity to inspect the
gear as they descended. Always visually confirm that the rope/s you are using are sound and
properly anchored. If Vale had visually confirmed the rope he was clipping into was anchored,
he would still be alive.

If you decide to clean up trash like old ropes, fixed slings or loose rock, finish the job. Never
leave a stuck rope or sling within reach of other climbers. Yes, its more work, but its called
laziness when you dont clean up after yourself. As AMGA licensed mountain guide Jeff Ward
wrote (see Master Class), Im amazed at how often the established rappel station is a complete
mess of tattered, sun-bleached slings. Always have a knife, and cut excess cord if necessary.
In this case, according to head climbing ranger Latham, the climber who attempted to throw
down the old blue cord had a knife but neglected to use it to cut away the mess.

Finally, lots of climbers passed within reach of the stuck rope, but no one took the time to cut it
or clear it. If you see a hazardous situation, step up. If anyone had cut or cleared the stuck blue
line, this accident would never have happened.

Those guys were trying to do a good thing by replacing that old cord, Latham said. But they
didnt follow through. Think about it. Your trash can literally kill.