Geography SBA

How does wave action affect the coast at

Vigie Beach, Castries?

Name: Jayda Hunte

School: St. Josephs Convent

Territory: St. Lucia

Candidate Number:

Centre Number:

Title of Study: Wave Action

Teachers Name: Mrs. Johnson- Lowrie

Strategy Sheet
Name: Jayda Hunte Class: 5PS1
General Topic of Interest:
Natural Systems- Coasts (Waves in Action)
Possible Title:
How does wave action affect the coast at Vigie Beach, Castries?

Basic Outline of Study:

(A) What is the aim of your study?
To investigate how wave action affects the coast at Vigie Beach.

(B) How will you obtain data?

Taking various measurements such as wave height, wind direction,
long shore drift, wave frequency and beach width
Taking photographs of various landforms along the coast
The use of questionnaires to gather information
Read and review literature on wave action and its effects on the
coast
Observations of wave frequency, wave height and other important
aspects of waves and other various landforms.

(C) How do you intend to present the data?

Analyze data collected and discuss findings
State conclusions
Illustrate method used for data collection and display findings
using photographs, tables, charts, drawings and maps.

Location of Study area:

Vigie beach, Castries, St. Lucia

Equipment required:
Meter ruler, measuring tape, camera, clipboard, survey map, stopwatch,
graduated rod, compass and questionnaires.

Likely Problems:
 Assistance in taking measurements along the beach, including wave
height and length.
The uprising of bad weather making it difficult to complete task.
Assistance in borrowing some of the equipment needed to carry out the
investigation.

Table of Contents

Page No.
LOCATIONS MAPS

Small Scale
Map 1
Large Scale
Map 2-3

AIM OF
STUDY
.. 4

METHODOLOGY
5-6
PRESENTATION AND ANALYSIS OF DATA

Introduction
.. 7
Charts &
Graphs..
8-11
Beach, Wave Action and Indications of Recent Change..
12-15

CONCLUSION
16

BIBLIOGRAPHY
17

APPENDIX
. 18
 Location
Maps

Aims of Study
The study aims to investigate how wave action affects the coast
and the features formed at the coast on Vigie Beach.
Data Collection

HOW THE DATA WAS COLLECTED

The data was collected by using various measuring instruments to
gather necessary information. Beach width was measured by using a
measuring tape and measuring from the high water mark to a fixed object on
the berm behind the beach. Wave height was measured by using a graduated
staff, where the staff is placed in the water and a timer is started. An observer
records where the wave crest and the following wave trough cut the staff; the
difference between the two is the wave height. Wave frequency was measured
by using a stopwatch to record the amount of time taken for a wave to break.
Eleven readings were taken, and the total was divided by ten to find the wave
frequency. Long shore drift was measured by observing the distance and
direction an object placed in the water travelled in a certain period of time.

The direction of the wind and waves were also recorded. Sand
samples were collected from various points on the beach and the different
plants and animals observed were noted. Human activity on and near the
beach were also recorded. Questionnaires were given out to vendors, visitors,
taxi drivers and workers on and near the beach.

WHERE THE DATA WAS COLLECTED

The study area was at Vigie Beach near the airport in Castries. It was
collected at three points along the beach; near the airport, Midway along the
beach and at the Rendezvous Hotel as shown on the sketch map on page 2.
Literature on coastal erosion was also sourced and analyzed.

WHEN WAS THE DATA COLLECTED

The data was collected on May 31st, 2014 between the hours of 10am
and 1pm and on the 21st of August, 2014 from 9am to 12pm.
 Presentation and Analysis of Data

Introduction
In this geographical study many findings and results from various
measurements and surveys were assessed and organized. This is then followed
by an account of observations made at Vigie Beach during the period of study.
A discussion on the action of the waves during that period of study and an
analysis of the vast number of indications of recent and long term changes to
the beach follows. The study concludes with a presentation of data by relating it
to the aims of the study.

Waves have direct impact on any coast, either changing the shape of
the coast by adding sand and other sediments or taking away these sediments
or by destroying settlements and habitats near the area. The two types of
waves, either constructive or destructive will indicate what happens to the
coast and what coastal features will be formed.
 Bar graph showing the major changes along the
coastline at Vigie Beach, Castries.

Which one of the following is the major change along the Coastline ?

Exposed Roots of trees

Steep Cliff Faces

Extending Coastline

Receding Coastline

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Number of Respondants

Fig. 1

Based on this bar graph the majority of persons believe that the major
change occurring along the vigie beach coastline is that the coastline is
receding. Both erosion and deposition occur at different times during the year.
During the period of study, there were more destructive waves, which lead to
erosion of the coast. Small Cliffs were formed near the berm of the beach and
beach materials were being broken up and washed away. Please refer to
photo no. 1 on page 14.
 Column graph showing the months during which the
wave height is at its highest and its lowest.

During which months are the waves' the highest and the lowest ?
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0

Respondants

Months
Fig. 2

Based on the questionnaires given out, the months when persons observed
the waves to be the highest at a height of about 5.6ft is between the months of
June to November. On the other hand, the months where persons observed the
waves to be the lowest at a height of about 3.9ft is between the months of
December to May. These observations are quite accurate because the hurricane
season is between the months of June to November. As expected during a time
of bad weather, winds become stronger and the strength of the wind will
indicate that tall destructive waves will be produced. After the hurricane season
between the months of December to May, winds will decreases in speed and
the shorter constructive waves will be produced.

Pictograph Showing the Landforms being formed

over the years
 Fig. 3
Have you noticed any landforms
being formed over the years? This
Headla pictograph
shows the
nds
number of
persons who
Arches have noticed
various
Cliffs features
being formed
Other on vigie
Key - Each Symbol = 1 Respondent beach over
the past
years. Many respondents indicated that they have noticed headlands being
formed and the Majority of respondents noticed that cliffs were also being
formed. From my own observations, Vigie Beach is located between two
headlands; one situated to end of the beach near the airport and the other,
extending further off the coast past the Rendezvous Hotel. [ Please refer to the
sketch map on page 3.] These headlands have been becoming more prominent
over the past few years due to the receding coastline. Small cliffs along the
beach are also being formed due to erosion by destructive waves.

Pie Chart showing the general direction in which

the waves move
Which area of the beach does the general direction of the waves move in ?
Towards the end of the beach near the airport

Towards the end of 20%

the beach near the rendevous hotel

5%
Midway along the beach

75%

other

Fig. 4
 This pie chart shows that 75% of respondents indicated that they noticed
that the waves moved from the north east in a south- westerly direction
towards the end of the beach near the airport. Only 20% said that they noticed
the waves moved directly from north to south approaching midway along the
beach and 5% noticed it moved from the north-west in a south-easterly
direction, towards the end of the beach near the rendezvous hotel. According to
my own observations, the waves did move towards in a south-westerly
direction towards the end of the beach near the airport; this is due to the waves
approaching the shore at an angle. This is called the angle of approach.

The Beach, Wave Action and Indications of Recent

Change
Vigie beach is a sandy, continuous beach located between two bay heads.
It is 2.33km long has an average width of 0.89km wide. This beach mainly has
constructive waves, at frequency of about 9 waves per minute. The waves on
average are about 3ft tall moving from 320 degrees north, towards the end of
the beach near vigie airport. Various sand samples were collected along the
beach. Sand size depends in the origin of the sand and the wave energy. Finer
grains of sand were found on the dune of the beach, coarser sand was found
between the high water mark and the berm of the beach. Sand was
continuously being pushed ashore due to deposition by the constructive waves.

Waves continuously break along the coastline at Vigie Beach. Constructive

waves are observed mainly, but destructive waves are accounted for during
storms. In constructive waves swash is stronger than backwash and so
deposition of sand and other sediments build up the beach. From observations
made on the first visit, it was noted that erosion was taking place, especially
near the cemetery area. When returning later on during the hurricane season, it
was noticed that even more erosion was taking place and the high water mark
was now further up the beach.

Photo 1.
 Photograph showing effects of erosion
The direction in which the wind travels affects the area of the beach, where
deposition of materials will be greater. This is because the winds encourage the
waves to move in same direction in which they blow and the waves wash more
sand and other sediments onto the shore rather than take away these
sediments; there the amount of swash is larger than the amount of backwash.
When a wave reaches a beach or coastline, it releases a burst of energy that
generates a current, which runs parallel to the shoreline. This type of current is
called a long shore current.

Photo 2.

Photograph showing deposition and erosion occurring

simultaneously along the coast at vigie beach
 The width of the beach is directly affected by the most prevalent type of
wave that is constructive or destructive waves. At certain areas on the beach,
deposition is more prevalent, so the beach width will increase and the beach
will extend. This occurs when there are more constructive waves in that area. In
other areas, erosion of the coastline is more prevalent due to the presence of
destructive waves. Receding of coastline will occur as well as strong backwash
of sand and other sediments.

Erosion is the critical aspect which is affecting the beach at this point in time.
As erosion takes place, the beach continues to recede. Human activity occurs
every day at this beach. Rendezvous hotel is located along this stretch of coast
and is being affected by the wave action. In attempt to extend the beach, they
built a groyne which helps sand to accumulate by slowing down the wave
energy, reducing the amount of backwash which takes place. This helps more
deposition of sand and calmer waves for the benefit of their guests.

Photo 3. Photo 4.

Photograph showing recently built groyne near Rendezvous

Hotel
 All in all, the aims of my study were met. In was clearly observed how wave
action has a huge impact on the coast at vigie beach and the landforms on and
near the beach.

Conclusion
The general conclusion made was that wave action had a big
impact on the coast. Waves affect the features formed along the coast, as well
as the profile of the beach. The prevailing North East trade winds, affect the
direction in which the waves move and so contribute to the features formed
along the coast. The main features noticed along the coast were, headlands
and cliffs. The beach had a gently sloping profile on the side of beach near
airport and steep cliff faces near the cemetery area. It was noted that the
profile of the beach is directly related to the type of wave; either constructive
or destructive. Vigie beach is a sandy beach with mainly constructive waves but
there are occasional destructive currents during the hurricane season. A man-
made coastal feature which was observed was a groyne. The groyne was built
near the rendezvous hotel to increase the deposition of sand, so intern to
increase the beach width; extending the coastline.

Recommendations which can help to reduce the amount of erosion

occurring near the cemetery are to build a short retaining wall along the
cemetery area, implementing gabion baskets and having general maintenance
of the beach every few months.

Bibliography

Books:
London, A. N., and Senior, M., Principles of Geography for CXC, Longman Group
Limited 1983, Kingston, Jamaica.
Wilson, M., The Caribbean Environment for CSEC Geography, Oxford University
Press, UK, 1990.

Atlases:
Certificate Atlas for the Caribbean, 2001, London, Macmillan Publishers, 2001.

Internet Sources:

GCSE Bitesize,
http://www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize/geography/coasts/coastal_processes
_rev1.shtml

Science Clarified, http://www.scienceclarified.com/landforms/Basins-to-

Dunes/Coast-and-Shore.html

UNESCO, Environment and Development In Coastal Regions and in Small

Islands. http://www.unesco.org/csi/act/cosalc/brochluc.htm

Appendix
Sample of Questionnaire

I am a form five student of the St. Josephs Convent Secondary

School and I will be carrying out a survey to investigate how wave
action affects the coast at Vigie Beach for my Geography SBA. It would
be greatly appreciated if you could answer these few questions based
on your observations of the area at Vigie Beach. Thank you in advance
for your time and assistance.

1. How often do you visit the beach?

Everyday

Once a week

Once a month

Other____________

2. Do you work on or near the beach?

Yes

No

3. If your answer to question 2 is yes, for how long have you been
working on/ near the beach?

Less than a year

1-5 Years

5-10 Years

Over 20 years

Other____________

4. Which one of the following is the most major change along the
coastline?

Receding Coastline
 Extending Coastline

Steep Cliff Faces

Exposed Roots of trees

5. At which section of the beach do you notice a change in the width?

Is it as the:

Vigie Airport

Midway along the Beach

By the Cemetery

By the Rendezvous Hotel

6. At the section you selected in the above question, is the width:

Narrower

Wider

7. In which section of the beach is deposition the greatest?

Near the Airport

Near the Cemetery

Midway along the beach

Near Rendezvous Hotel

8. In which section of the beach is erosion the greatest?

Near the Airport

Near the Cemetery

Midway along the beach

Near Rendezvous Hotel

9. During what months do you notice many rocks along the coastline?

June- November

December- May

September- November

Other___________

10. During what months are the waves heights the lowest?

June- November

December- May

September- November

Other___________

11. During what months are the waves heights the highest?

June- November
 December- May

September- November

Other__________

12. Which area of the beach do the waves move to?

Towards the end of the beach near the airport

Towards the end of the beach near the Rendezvous hotel

Midway along the beach

Other___________

13. How have storms and tropical depressions affected the beach over
the years?

Led to more deposition

Led to more erosion

Both Erosion and Deposition

No Change

14. Have you noticed any landforms being formed over the years?
Such as:

Headlands

Arches

Cliffs
 Other______________

THANK YOUR FOR YOUR TIME & CO-OPERATION