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Recovery Emas dari Limbah

Surabaya 2010

Perkembangan dunia modern sangat tergantung dari perkembangan dunia elektronik,

dunia elektronik yang berhubungan langsung dengan perkembangan dunia adalah bidang
teknologi informasi. Teknologi informasi sangat tergantung dari dunia computer, baik
hardware maupun software. Untuk membuat hardware computer menjadi lebih hebat
maka digunakan logam emas untuk spare partnya. Perkembangan teknologi yang sangat
cepat berakibat pada cepatnya perubahan teknologi hardware. Dalam waktu satu tahun
saja teknologi hardware bias jauh tertinggal. Hal tersebut akan mengakibatkan perangkat
keras ketinggalan zaman. Sehingga dalam waktu lima tahun saja sudah banyak sampah

Buku ini membahas metode untuk memanfaatkan sampah elektronik, memproses emas
dari sampah elektronik, mengetahui bagian mana yang banyak mengandung emasnya,
menggunakan bahan kimia untuk memproses emas 24k, tempat untuk mendapatkan
sampah elektronik, penghasilan tetap perbulan, daftar peralatan yang dibutuhkan, tempat
untuk memperoleh peralatan dan bahan kimia.

Akhir kata semoga buku ini bermanfaat untuk kita semua.

Pakde jongko
0817654 0345
1. The Formula
Warning: This stuff is dangerous, the fumes are wicked. Don’t breathe them. Do this
outdoors. Use a mask, or a fan, or be upwind. Be sure children or pets cannot accidentally
get near it or the fumes. Be responsible or just plain old don’t do it. The gold is not worth
an injury! You assume all risks for the use of this information. DO NOT try to use this
formula on circuit boards.

Use it only on components, such as CPUs, ceramic chips, “fingers”, etc., after removing
them from the circuit boards. A variation of this formula, substituting Sulfuric Acid
(battery acid) for the Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid), will work for pins, but you
should wait until you have success first with other simple items before trying to refine

Formula to Make Aqua Regia.

This quantity of ingredients is for about
200 grams of mixed metals, gold, copper, etc.
1 quart of Muriatic Acid (31%) 1 quart= 1 Ltr
1/2 pound Sodium Nitrate 16-00-00
Distilled water (tap water is usually O.K).

Additional ingredients for precipitating out the gold:

1. Urea
(The Urea you get should be nice clean white pellets a little larger than BBs. Some
people are getting dirty Urea, with other stuff mixed in, it may cause problems.)
2. Sodium Metabisulfite
2 Five gallon buckets
Cloth for filtering
Please note: The instructions call for distilled water. I never use distilled water. I only call
for distilled water to cover the possibility that your tap water could have some weird
substance in it that may cause some problems. MOST likely if will be just fine to use
whatever water is available to you. You could always do your learning with distilled
water if you like, and then once you’re confident of your abilities, switch to tap water,
and see if there’s really any difference. Place the metals you want to dissolve in the first
bucket. Dissolve ½ pound of Sodium Nitrate (Nitrate of Soda 16-00-00) in 16 oz. of HOT
distilled water, and pour it over the metals. Then add the 1 quart of Muriatic Acid
(Hydrochloric Acid). This is the method I use.An alternate method is to dissolve 1/2
pound of Sodium Nitrate (Nitrate of Soda 16-00-00) in 16 oz. of HOT distilled water and
then add the quart of Hydrochloric Acid to the Sodium Nitrate solution. Usually (but not
always) a salt will form rather quickly and settle to the bottom. You then pour off the
Aqua Regia, leaving the salt in the bottom of the container.

Cover the bucket with a cloth (I like to use a wet towel) and leave it alone for several
hours or even overnight until all the metal has dissolved. This is a powerful Aqua Regia
solution. Never seal any container with Aqua Regia. It will release chlorine gas for
weeks, building up dangerous pressure. BE SURE CHILDREN, PETS, OR UNWARY

Very carefully pour or siphon off the blue, green, or yellow liquid into the second bucket
without disturbing the sediment on the bottom of the first bucket. Don’t even think about
starting a siphon using your mouth! I start the siphon by prefilling the siphon tube with
water, putting a finger of each end of the tube while wearing rubber gloves, and then
releasing my fingers once the ends of the tube are submerged in the containers. Now add
anywhere from a cup to a gallon of water to the first bucket (I add very little water, it’s up
to you how much you want to add). This will stir up the remaining liquid and all the
sediment. Let this settle for a while. Then with a cloth filter on the second bucket, slowly
pour or siphon this liquid into the second bucket, adding it to the solution you already
poured into the second bucket. A sheet will work as a filter, or better yet, I like the sheer
material that’s used on a wedding gown. I don’t always use a filter, usually I just
carefully pour off the liquid being sure to not let any sediment carry over. To precipitate
the gold out of solution, slowly add a handful of Urea (available at feedstores) to the
solution (the second bucket). If your Urea is “dirty”, instead of adding the Urea pellets
directly to the solution, you may want to first dissolve the Urea pellets in boiling water
and then filter it to clear any sediment. It should fizzle and it may even foam up. When it
no longer fizzles upon adding more Urea you can stop adding it. It may not fizzle at all,
which is O.K. (it just means that all the NITRIC Acid has been used up in the reaction).
Most likely if you look very closely you will see thousands of tiny bubbles forming in the
solution in the bucket after you’ve added the Urea. I like to wait 5 to 15 minutes for
the bubbling to die down a good bit. Now, mix 1 oz. of Sodium Metabisulfite (contact me
if you can’t locate it) into 8 oz. of HOT water. The actual amount of Sodium
Metabisulfite you mix up depends on the amount of gold in your solution. Here you have
to guess. You want to mix into a small quantity of water an amount of Sodium
Metabisulfite equal to or slightly greater than the amount of gold dissolved in your
solution. It’s better to put in MORE rather than LESS. You just don’t want to use a LOT
more than is necessary. If you use too little, all the gold will NOT come out of solution,
which you can determine with a gold testing solution. If you didn’t add enough Sodium
Metabisulfite you can always add more. One way of knowing if you’ve added enough is
the STRONG smell of sulfur coming from the solution afterwards.

Slowly pour the Sodium Metabisulfite mixture into the solution while briskly stirring.
You will smell the Sulfur Dioxide being produced. Hopefully the liquid will begin to turn
brown right away. If it doesn’t, give it some time. It may take a few minutes or long er.
Once you see the brown gold forming, cover it with a cloth and wait for a couple of
hours, overnight, or even a full day to allow enough time for the gold sediment to all
settle to the bottom. I’ve found out (from one of my students) that you can heat it up at
this point to around 150 F, and it will usually settle out the gold without having to wait.
Test the solution for gold. You can test to see if the gold has precipitated out of the
solution at any time, but the less time you wait the worse the TOXIC fumes you’ll be
exposed to will be. If there is still gold left in the solution (after you have waited at least 8
hours), mix up some more of the Sodium Metabisulfite and once again precipitate the
gold out of solution. If there is no gold left in the solution, pour off the liquid, being
careful not to lose any of the gold sediment that will be at the bottom. Do properly
dispose of this liquid (after neutralizing with baking soda or wood ashes). Be aware that
when you neutralize the liquid it will give off strong, poisonous fumes of Sulfur Dioxide.
The more Sodium Metabisulfite you used to precipitate the gold out of solution, the more
Sulfur Dioxide will be released, which is one reason to try to not use more than is

Here’s another disposal method you may like to know about. The leftover solution is still
strongly acidic from the residual Hydrochloric Acid. I just take the aluminum shell
(stripped of all other metals) from an old 5 1/4" disk drive and drop it in the bucket of
leftover acid solution. I leave it in there for days or weeks. The aluminum will dissolve in
the acid and become covered with what looks like a coral reef composed mostly of
copper. The aluminum is causing the copper, lead, nickel, and other base metals, etc.
(plus any other precious metals you left behind) to come out of solution. I then pour off
this liquid, which should now be mostly aluminum hydroxide, (which has very little
environmental impact) and collect the solid residue. The solid residue is dried out, and
then should be able to be recycled as scrap metal, primarily copper. There will be a
brown or black residue on the bottom. This is the gold. Rinse with clean water several
times, carefully pouring it off to not lose any gold (after waiting LONG enough for ALL
the gold to settle to the bottom, this could take a good while). It’s a good idea to do a
final rinse with ammonia, followed with a distilled water rinse. The ammonia will
remove traces of silver and other metal oxides. If the residue is light brown, you have
very pure gold. If it is darker, or almost black, you may want to redissolve this residue in
the Aqua Regia, and reprocess it, to make very pure gold. In fact, if you want high purity
gold, it’s best to ALWAYS redissolve the residue, and do the precipitation again. This
will produce very fine gold.

Flux Formula
50% Ammonium Chloride
25% Sodium Nitrate
25% Borax
Just mix the three ingredients together. Do NOT grind them. Feel free to experiment with
the proportions. Ammonium Chloride is used to turn any base metals, i.e. copper, tin,
etc., into chlorides, which will go up in smoke. The Sodium Nitrate is used to provide
oxygen, to help oxidize any base metals. And the borax forms a glasslike slag to absorb
away any solid residues.

Gold Testing Solution

You can use this solution to test for dissolved gold in solution. It will turn black or purple
if there’s gold, the darker the better. To make the gold testing solution, just put an inch or
two of 95/5 tin/antimony solder in a test tube and fill it with HCL. The solder will
dissolve and leave a black residue in the bottom of the test tube. Carefully pour off the
clear liquid, that’s the testing solution. If you have any pure tin to use instead, you can
make it the same way, and there won’t be a black residue in the test
tube. This solution will not last very long, so make up some new solution about every
month. If you leave a small piece of tin solder in the solution, it will last longer. It’s a
good idea to keep some dissolved gold on hand, to use for testing to make sure the gold
testing solution is still good.
2.Apa yang direkoveri?
Beberapa orang yang telah berusaha untuk rekoveri emas dari limbah elektronik
mengalami masalah karena tidak mengidahkan saran yang sudah diberikan. Bahan yang
paling mudah untuk belajar untuk rekoveri emas dari limbah elektronik adalah computer
CPU 486. sederhana dan mudah ditebak ( diperkirakan ). Satu pound 486s (20 chips)
menghasilkan sekitar 3 to 3.5 grams emas.

Pukulah CPU dengan pukul besi barang sekali atau dua kali, kemudian ambil plat yang
berlapis emas. Jamgan masukkan plat tersebut kedalam proses refining ( rekoveri ),
simpanlah untuk saat dimana sudah mahir. Plat tersebut mempunyai jumalh emas yang
lumayan banyak, maka tanpa memprosesnya hasil yang didapat dari refining akan sangat
berkurang dari jumlah yang sudah diceritakan lebih awal.

Sangat baik untuk memulai dengan 2 pound CPU 486. dapat juga ditambah dengan
memori card. Hasil yang didapat per pound akan sama dengan 486, apabila kartu
memorinya dari versi yang lebih lama, pertengahan tahun 90 an atau sebelumnya maka
emas yang didapat lebih sedikit.

Jauhilah pin, pin mempunyai kandungan emas yang banyak seperti umumnya yang lebih
tua lebih banyak emasnya, dikemudian hari pin akan kita refining. Sangat tidak praktis
untuk mengolah semua sirkuit board. Terlalu banyak junk. CPU pentium ada banyak
masalah, tetapi jika sudah bisa mengatasi 486 maka bisa bergerak ke pentium. Sedikitnya
mempunyai 1/3 jumlalh emas 486. apabila tidak bisa didapat 486 dengan harga yang
murah, pertimbangkan untuk beli limbah dari perusahaan perhiasan untuk sekedar tujuan
berlatih. Untuk berlatih tidak hanya dengan emas 18k tetapi juga bisa digunakan emas
10k, jika dimungkinkan tidak ada aloy peraknya.
3. Sumber bahan limbah

Beberapa bahan limbah emas dari elektronik adalah laboratorium pembuatan gigi palsu
dari emas, limbah dari pengrajin perhiasan dan tukang emas, limbah dari perusahaan
pemrosesan emas dari batu tambang dan limabah elektronik. Beberapa produk elektronik
yang mengandung emas adalah;

 CPU's
 Pins
 Electronic boards
 Cell phones boards
 Integrated circuits
 printed circuit boards
4.Foto Proses Recoveri Emas dari Limbah
PERINGATAN : barang ini berbahaya, asap beracun. Jangan dihirup. Lakukan
diluar rumah. Pakai masker atau kipas angin untuk mendorong asap. Anak-anak
atau binatang piaraan tidak boleh mendekat ke asap itu. tanggung jawab kita untuk
menjauhkan mereka ,mohon hati-hati. Emas tidak sepadan nilainya dengan luka!
jangan mengambil risiko untuk penggunaan informasi ini.

1.Photo diatas memperlihatkan dimana kita mulai, sekitar 9 pon potongan CPUs,
umumnya Pentiums awal, dan beberapa 486s. Ada juga beberapa lembar dari kartu
komputer. Saya anjurkan bagi pemula untuk mulai dengan bahan tersebut. Jangan
masukkan pin komputer, atau emas dari piring logam segi empat yang jatuh CPUs kalau
anda pisahkan mereka, kecuali untuk mengolah nanti, sesudah mempunyai lebih banyak

2. pemandangan dari lembar memori card, terlihat agak banyak.

3.Satu lagi pemandangan chips dan fingger.

4.Ini adalah Muriatic Acid I atau HCL. Perhatikan bahwa prosen asam sebanyak 31%.

5.Ini adalah Nitrat Sodium biasa dipakai,

6.Sebelum menjelaskan gambar ini, perlu diberitahukan bahwa saya tidak mengikuti
beberapa recipe untuk mengolah tumpuk emas ini. Oleh sebab itu anda akan memahami
perbedaan di antara recipe recipe tersebut, dan apa yang saya lakukan di sini. Perbedaan
utama adalah bahwa saya mencoba melarutkan sodium nitra kedalam hcl, lebih baik
daripada diair. Tidak bekerja, tetapi ada beberapa keuntungan, sebagian besar bahwa
Muriatic Acid berbelok menjadi Aqua Regia, sebagai bukti digambar berikut. Sewaktu
anda melihat warna berubah dari kuning sampai jingga menunjukkan bahwa sudah
menghasilkan Aqua Regia, dan waktu lama , mendidih panas dan memulai reaksi segera,.

7.ember yang digunakan sebaiknya agak tinggi, apabila terjdi reaksi kimia yang
menimbulkan panas dan asap beracun, langsung menuju kea rah atas tidak kea arah
hidung kita. Kemudian ada tempat yang longgar dari ember tersebut untuk reaksi kimia
yang terjadi.
8. chips didalam ember.

9.timbangan elektronik yang digital, ditentukan untuk titik nol.

10.taruh gelas kimia kaca untuk menimbang Nitrat Sodium. Kemudian posisikan
timbangan pada titik nol
11.Skala sekarang sudah dinolkan kembali.

12.Nitrat Sodium sudah ditambahkan ke gelas kimia.

13.Skala membaca 1 pon Nitrat Sodium. Mengamati: ini berarti saya melakukan recipe
ganda, karena hanya singgah untuk 1/2 jumlah Nitrat Sodium.
14. saya tuangkan 2 quart ( 2x formula lagi ) dari hcl ke dalam poci yang ditempatkan
diatas kompor listrik untuk dipanaskan, kompor diset pada level low lebih dahulu,
dibawah skala medium, setelah beberapa saat naikkan ke level yang lebih tinggi, untuk
menghindari tekanan ke pot gelas agar tidak mendadak kena panas, pot tersebut tidak
digunakan utnuk hal yang demikian maka bias pecah, yang akan mengakibatkan
tumpahan asam kemana mana.

15. terlihat mendidih

16. tambahkan (1) pound Sodium Nitrate.

17. terjadi reaksi dan berubah menjadi kuning pucat.

18. terus dimasak, warna menjadi kuning.

19. dimasak, kuning.

20. tetap dimasak, mulai terlihat warna orange. Petunjuk awal adanya Aqua Regia.
21. perhatikan bahwa semua sodium nitrat yang tidak larut ada didasar pot.

22. masih terus dimasak, bahwa terlihat HCl tidak akan melarutkan semua sodium nitrat..
23. sekarang tuang aqua regia kedalam ember yang berisi chip.

24. setelah aqua regia dituang kedalam ember akan segera terjadi reaksi dengan muncul
warna hijau, karena reaksi dari logam tembaga dan nikel yang melarut.
25. Sudut pandang lain, ketika terjadi reaksi asam dengan chip.

26. kembali kita perhatikan pot

yang berisi sisa sodium nitrat
yang belum larut, tambah lagi air
dan panaskan lagi agar menjadi
aqua regia.
27. segera Sodium Nitrate melarut.

28. Sodium Nitrate dimasak, ember 5 gallon ditutup agar dangerous fumes tidak keluar.
29 hampir semua Sodium Nitrate larut.

30. aqua regia yang dimasukkan kedalam ember tidak cukup untuk melarutkan semua
logam yang menempel di chip, tetapi sudah terjadi banyak asap, dari reaksi tersebut

31. sekarang semua Sodium Nitrate sudah larut, maka waktunya untuk menuangkan
kedalam ember agar terjadi reaksi yang sempurna, panaskan lebih dahulu.

32. I have added some of the boiling Sodium Nitrate to the bucket of chips.
33 tuangkan larutan Sodium Nitrate panas kedalam ember..

34. masukkan semuanya.

35. jika sudah masuk semua, pot akan mendidih.

36. akan muncul panas dari reaksi kimia yang sedang berjalan.

37. pandangan yang tampak dari luar ember adalah cairan dengan warna gelap, dari
tembaga dan nikel dan logam lain yang melarut..

38. Cooking.
39. Cooking.


41. COOKING. Semakin banyak gas yang terjadi. Sangat bahaya.


43. saat yang sangat berbahaya ketika menutup ember yang didalamnya sedang terjadi

44. tong abu – abu yang besar siap digunakan untuk menutup gas yang keluar saat reaksi,
terlihat asap cokalt, asap yang mematikan. Saat ini adlah yang paling berbahaya jangan
mendekat area tersebut untuk 2 sampai 4 jam mendatang.
45. The immediate danger is the fumes, afterwards the danger is the bucket of Aqua
Regia. Great care is required from this point on. YOU are responsible to keep children
and pets away, and alert any adults to the dangers at hand.

46. The bucket is covered with the trashcan.

47. Deadly fumes are leaking out because I did not have it sealed with loose dirt.
48. The liquid is turning very dark from the dissolving metals. By the way, the Gold will
be the last one to dissolve.

49. Bubbles and stuff floating around.

50. I’ve tilted the bucket to one side, exposing the chips, and leaving a film of yellow
stained liquid on the sides of the bucket, that’s GOLD (actually, gold chloride).

51. See how much of the metal has been eaten away by the acid! It’s only been about an

52. I waited an extra hour, for a total of two hours, to give the acid plenty of time to
work. Some people give it overnight to get a slightly higher yield. By the way, save the
left over chips. If you can grind them up, there’s about another $2.00 or more per pound
of gold left in them.
53. Everything’s stripped clean, and the yellow color indicates plenty of gold.

54. Preparing a second bucket to pour the gold containing liquid into, while filtering out
the trash. I took a double layer of fabric and covered a clean bucket with it, be sure to
secure it very securely, you don’t want it falling into your bucket, loaded with acid and

55. Ready to pour.

56. All poured.

57. Drip, drip.

58. The chips after the acid has been poured off.
59. Close-up of the same. The yellow drops on the sides of the bucket also indicate gold.

60. The bottom of the bucket, good to the last drop.

61. This is a bottle of gold testing solution. It’s just some tin (or 95/5 tin/antimony solder)
dissolved in some HCL.
62. Using the eyedropper to test a droplet of the gold bearing solution. A positive test for
gold is if the drop turns purple or black, the darker it is, the more the gold there is.

63. Looks real nice.

64. Drip, drip, it took about 15 to 20 minutes.

65. Drip, drip, getting close.

66. Now I’ve covered the chips with fresh clean water to rinse any extra gold from them.

67. Swish the water around to get it all.

68. Drip, drip, almost done.

69. Another gold test, looks good.

70. Look carefully. I’ve poured the rinse water from the bucket with the chips now into
the bucket with the gold bearing acid. See how the yellow color is going away, it’s being
rinsed into the bucket, where you want it.
71. All the yellow is gone, that’s good, it’s now in the bucket.

72. See how clean the bucket and chips are.

73. The chips again.

74. The rinse drip is almost done.

75. Another view of the rinse water dripping through the strainer cloth.

76. I’ve lifted up the cloth so you can see under it.
77. Drippp.

78. Splash.

79. The filtered acid, with the water from the rinsed chips. All the gold is here.
80. The leftover crud, discard.

81. Keep it covered.

82. Next is Urea.

83. Urea is used as a fertilizer, and for ice melting.

84. This is what Urea looks like.

85. A handful of Urea.

86. Throw the Urea in the acid. See the yellow/green bubbles.

87. Run spot run, oops, wrong story (you need to be over 40 years old to appreciate the
humor here, if you need help, email me).

More green bubbles. Good. This step is one of the greatest recently discovered steps in
gold refining with Aqua Regia, for many of hundreds of years, this step required a very
difficult and tedious process of boiling the liquid down to a syrup, THREE times, to get
rid of all of the Nitric Acid. The urea accomplishes the same thing. All the bubbles you
see indicate that it’s working.

I just slowly put in small handfuls of urea until the bubbles die down, I put in less and
less, slower and slower, until the action quits.

This is very important, if all the nitric isn’t gone, you still have Aqua Regia, which will
dissolve gold, and prevent you from getting it out of the solution later.
88. More bubbles, good.

89. I like bubbles, you will learn to like bubbles too.

90. Time to weight out the precipitant. I use Sodium Metabisulfite. You want to use more
than the amount of gold you suspect to be in the acid. In this case I’m hoping there’s
around 20 grams of gold, so I’ll use 30 grams of Sodium Metabisulfite.
91. Double check the weight, 30 grams.

92. Dissolving the 30 grams of Sodium Metabisulfite in a small amount of water. About a
93. A coffee pot of gold. Don’t drink it. The Sodium Metabisulfite had been poured into
the bucket of acid. The acid turns brown like dark coffee. That’s what you want it to do.
That’s the gold coming out of solution.

94. Look close at the cylinder, you can see the gold dropping.

95. Let it drop for an hour or more, even overnight. Carefully pour off the liquid on top,
what’s left over is a brown “mud” at the bottom. That’s the gold.
96. Rinse the mud with water, let the mud resettle. Pour off the clear water, your rinsed
gold is on the bottom. Let it dry for several hours.

97. It’s not unusual for a small amount of gold to float to the top, not as a brown mud, but
as metallic gold flakes. It’s pretty, but doesn’t amount to much, the mud is more
98. The gold mud has been mixed with flux and melted down. Here’s what it yielded,
11.4 grams of 23K gold.

In the pictures below, you will see the same piece of gold, after I have refined it a second
time. It turned out that there was some silver in this gold nugget, the second refining
yielded a 10.6 gram nugget of 24K gold.

Here are pictures showing the procedure for taking the brown “mud”, and converting it
into yellow gold.

99. Here’s a picture showing the brown gold “mud” mixed with flux. I like to mix an
equal amount of flux as the amount of gold mud. The formula for the flux is: 50%
ammonium chloride, 25% sodium nitrate, and 25% borax. The amount does not need to
be exact. You could vary it a good bit with out much problem. Here’s what happens with
the flux and gold mud, the ammonium chloride combines with any base metals, such as
copper, and forms chlorides, that turn into smoke, lots of it. The sodium nitrate provides
oxygen to oxidize any base metals. The borax forms a slag to collect any oxidized metals
that didn’t go up in smoke.
100. Do NOT try to do this on as small a piece of brick as you see me using here, until
you have had a lot of practice. Use a full sized brick, and be sure that the turntable is
level, or you WILL have the gold bead roll off the side and turn into hundreds of little
gold beads that may burn you.





As you melt the gold and flux mix, the flux will keep the gold from just blowing away
from the torch. Don’t use too much gas pressure, or too large a flame. I use a fine
Oxy/MAPP gas torch.







The brown “mud” (gold) begins to look like gold as it melts.IMPORTANT NOTE: You
will see that the gold is forming around the perimeter. I make this happen by putting the
firebrick on a turntable, that I spin very slowing by hand. It lets me use the torch flame to
always “push” the melting gold in towards the center.




When the gold nugget is done forming, I then look for little beads left in the flux on the
firebrick. You can use the torch flame to melt and “push” away the flux to reveal any
hidden beads underneath the flux. When I find one, I then push the HOT gold nugget
with a stainless steel spoon over the little bead. Then I reheat the nugget, since it’s so hot
already, it takes just a small amount of heat to remelt it, when this happens, it also melts
the little bead underneath it, and they are joined together.