Mickey Mouse T-34/76

The finest tank

in the world

Hunting Panther Coldstream Guard Amphibious Jeep

Dragons 1/35 Sd.Kfz 173 A 54mm figure from the Battle Building Tamiyas model of the
Jagdpanther kit of Waterloo Ford G.P.A. 1/4ton 4x4 truck
28th April 2017
MODELLING GROUP

5.10

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EDITORIAL
Contributing Editor: Martyn Chorlton
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Email: contribeditor@militarymodelling.com
10 The finest tank in the world
Ivan Momcilovic Momcha presents his 1/35 ICM T-34/76
PRODUCTION (early 1943 production)
Designer: Richard Dyer
Illustrator: Grahame Chambers
Retouching Manager: Brian Vickers 16
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16 The Hunting Panther
The Dragon 1/35 Sd.Kfz 173 Jagdpanther Smart Kit (6393) by Andy King

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All rights reserved ISSN 0026-4083
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Military Modelling, ISSN 0026-4083, is published monthly with an
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26 Scratch one Mk.IV Male
Inspired by Military Modelling, Keith Sharples presents his scratchbuilt Mk.IV

32 More free and easy buildings: 32

concrete, brick and wood
A range of building materials, once again
on a budget by Roger Merry
 36 Vol.47 No.5 2017

Stand Easy...
W
elcome to Military Modelling
40 Volume 47, Issue 5 which is
already my thirteenth issue!
36 The Engineer Volunteers of 1859-1908 Twelve months-worth of mags have come
Part 2 Counties D to H by Ray Westlake and gone in the blink of an eye and I only
now feel like Im getting the hang of where
40 Hooker Nose Art we should be going. As I said when I took
Canadian CH-147D Chinook Nose Art in Afghanistan by Ed Storey over, this was intended to be a period of
experimentation some new subjects
46 Fordin the Water! were introduced, some old subjects were
Ford Truck, Amphibian, re-introduced and these changes were
GPA, 1/4 ton, 4x4 combined with a different internal layout
by Mark Bannerman all of which should, by now, be presenting
the reader with an increased range of
subjects. The latter, in part, has been
achieved by being more open minded with
regard to what the contributor has to offer
and I have really enjoyed introducing new
people into the magazine not to mention a
few returners I hope that this course will
46 continue in both cases. Generally, I think
these changes which in my humble opinion
52 were not particularly radical, have been well
received by the readership and I thank you
all for your support and general feedback;
even the few constructively critical ones!
52 Lets design a drum!
Marcel Von Hobe steers us through MM4705 continues this approach
the wonderful world of 3D printing and this issue sees four more new
contributors in the shape of Andy King,
Keith Sharples, Ed Storey and Marcel
Regular Features Van Hobe. The cross section of subjects
from these four alone sums up what
we are trying to achieve and Im sure,
5 Stand Easy like me, you will glean new information
A message from the Contributing Editor and expand your knowledge of this vast
subject. From out of the box builds to
58 MAFVA a piece of superb figure modelling, an
Regimental Museums by Chairman Jon Ham incredible scratch build, to modelling
using recycling, a look at the world of
60 On Parade 3D printing through to military history
Recommended books for military modellers sections from the Victorian period to the
recent conflict in Afghanistan, once more
62 Atten-Shun! Military Modelling has a little something
Products review section for everyone.

72 Next Issue If you think you have a project that I might be

Whats coming up in your favourite modelling magazine! interested in please send me a message. Also,
dont forget www.militarymodelling.com,
the magazines own popular website which

Cover Story...
has a vibrant forum covering every conceivable
modelling subject.

MAIN IMAGE: 1/35 ICM T-34/76 by Ivan Momcilovic Momcha Carry On!

LEFT INSET: Andy Kings 1/35 Dragon Jagdpanther

Martyn Chorlton
CENTRE INSET: 54mm Coldstream Guard at Hougoumont by Contributing Editor
Ian Succamore
contribeditor@militarymodelling.com
RIGHT INSET: ton, 4x4 GPA by Mark Bannerman

www.militarymodelling.com 5
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 AFV

The finest tank in the world

Ivan Momcilovic Momcha presents his 1/35 ICM T-34/76 (early 1943 production)
Effective, efficient and influential
At its introduction, The T-34 was a Soviet medium tank that had a
profound and lasting effect in the field of tank design.
1

the T-34 possessed Although its armour and armament were surpassed
later in the war, it has been often credited as the
an unprecedented

most effective, efficient and influential tank design

combination of firepower, of the Second World War. At its introduction, the

T-34 possessed an unprecedented combination of
mobility, protection firepower, mobility, protection and ruggedness. Its
76.2mm (3in) high-velocity gun provided a substantial
and ruggedness. increase in firepower over any of its contemporaries
and its heavy sloped armour was difficult to
penetrate by most contemporary anti-tank weapons.
When first encountered in 1941, the German tank
General von Kleist called it the finest tank in the
world and General Heinz Guderian confirmed the
2
T-34s vast superiority over existing German armour
of the period.
The T-34 was the mainstay of Soviet armoured
forces throughout the war. Its design allowed it to be
continuously refined to meet the constantly evolving
needs of the Eastern Front and, as the war went
on, it became more capable, but also quicker and
cheaper to produce. Soviet industry would eventually
produce over 80,000 T-34s of all variants, allowing
steadily greater numbers to be fielded
as the war progressed, despite
the loss of thousands in
combat against the German
Wehrmacht. Replacing many
light and medium tanks in Red Army
service, it was the most-produced
tank of the war, as well as the second-
most-produced tank of all time (after its
successor, the T-54/55 series). Its evolutionary
development led directly to the T-54/55 series of
tanks and from there, to the T-62, T-72, and T-90 tanks
that, along with several Chinese tanks based on the
T-55, form the backbone of many armies even today.
Widely exported following the war, in 1996, T-34
variants were still in service in at least 27 countries.

10 Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017

 AFV

Model
ICM have made a very nice model with their new
T-34/76 (early 1943 production). The detail and
casting is well done and construction will not
take too much of your time. There are some parts
that could be replaced, to make the kit more
authentic. Some aftermarket companies already
offered various solutions in resin plastic, but it
will also look nice if you build it out of the box.
I started with the turret. It is detailed from
the start but my idea was to add to it. Firstly, I
have added numbers that I cut from some old
sprues and glued them using Testors liquid glue
for models. Numbers on the turrets were often
seen on Russian WWII tanks, so these details
were more than welcome. Next I made some
damage details using a soldering iron. I was
careful when I was doing this not to damage
and melt more plastic than I wanted (Photo 1).
Then I used Mr. Surfacer 500 and a brush to
produce texturing around the effects that I had
already made (Photo 2). When I finished with all
the detailing it was time for priming using the
Black and White technique. Firstly, I
airbrushed grey primer as a neutral
shade (Photo 3). After I had waited
for few hours, I airbrushed Dark Grey
shades on the places where less light
and more dirt can be seen (Photo 4).
After a few hours I added a final shade;
white on the parts where the vehicle is
exposed to the light (Photo 5). The reason why
I was waiting for few hours between shades
is that the primer, even when it`s dry, can 3
produce a chemical reaction when mixing
it with a new layer and shades can be
lighter or darker than you really want
them. So it is best if you wait
for a few hours for primer to
be completely dry. After
priming it was time for
final detailing before I
added camouflage. Using a
fine brush and white paint I
highlight some details on
the model like screws,

www.militarymodelling.com 11
 00
AFV

10

holders and etc. These parts will be highlighted

later after adding basic camouflage. As they are
small, highlighting will give you the right in scale
look (Photo 6).
Now time for the basic camouflage; I chose to
apply two or three layers of camouflage colours,
something a little different than the standard Soviet
green that we usually see on the models. I used
Ammo Mig Colours 021 7K Russian Tan and 023
Protective Green. Painted like this, the model should
7 represent vehicle that fought in the famous Battle of
Kursk (Photo 7). I have also added the appropriate
decals for T-34 in the Kursk battle (Photo 8). After
adding the decals, I airbrushed a thin layer of Tamiya
X-22 Clear to get a glossy surface and nice base for
the next weathering steps.
Firstly, a green filter is added with fine brush. In this
step I was careful not to change the basic colours with
the filter, just to tone them down (Photo 9), then after
the filter had dried, I added one more layer but this
time with darker shade of green, which resulted on
this rough surface in an effect more like a wash (Photo
10). When both filter layers had dried, I made some
weathering effects with artist oils. I have made small
lines and dots with yellow and white colour, randomly
painted on the model (Photo 11). Then, using enamel
8 thinner and brush, I blended them in (Photo 12).
The process was repeated a few times until I got a
good result. After this process, it is recommended
to leave it alone for a couple of days because artist
oils are slow drying and if you are planning on
continuing with weathering affects you can easily
ruin all previous steps.

11

12

13
Time for some streaking; standard streaking
grime enamel effect has been added on the sides
of the turret and the hull. Randomly sized lines were
painted with a thin brush (Photo 13) and then using
enamel thinner were blended from the top to the
bottom until I get a satisfactory result (Photo 14).
Using a sponge technique, I have made chipping
effects with a mixture of green, yellow and white
followed by a lighter shade of green than the
camouflage base green. Using a sponge for this
effect I can produce a very authentic looking
chipping (Photo 15). After that I used a dark brown
15
17
www.militarymodelling.com
AFV
12
14
colour to add more volume on the chipping; dark
brown will give a more dramatic look (Photo 16).
A relatively new product on the market is Wilders
weathering oils. What is making them different from
other oil colours is that they are quick dry, so waiting
between weathering steps is much shorter. I used
Wilder Black Brown around the hatches and the
places where most of the dirt can be seen (Pic17).
I put it on with a fine brush and then I used a flat dry
brush for blending (Photo 18). The same steps were
16
18
13
AFV

19

20

21

22

23

14
 AFV

used on various places on

the model (Photo 19) and the
final result is more than authentic.
Grey Dirt Spatter from Wilder Nitro
line was added to the wheels. This common
brown mud tone is good for improving the
realism of weathering effects on vehicles (Photo
20). Waiting for dirt effects to dry on the wheels, I
made a few more effects on the upper hull such as
rust on the engine deck (Photo 21).
It is now time for weathering the lower chassis, which
I started with Wilder Black Brown oil. I made streaking
effects with it and then added Stony Textured Earth
(Light Grey HDF-TE-08) and Light Europe (HDF-TE-11),
also from Wilders. These products are fantastic for 24
creating a realistic texturing effect. (Photo 22) While the
texturing effects were drying, I added shades of brown
colour on the exhaust with an airbrush (Photo 23) and When the effect on the lower chassis has dried, I
added various tones of dirt on the lower chassis. have added one more layer using various pigments
Fuel stains are always a welcome effect and they for a more authentic look; a mixture of Earth tones
give a very dramatic look to the model. I put them and Dark mud pigments. Soon after I made speckling
mostly on the engine areas and exhaust system. effects with two different shades (Photo 26). Black
Tracks were painted in a dark brown tone, which pigment was put around the exhaust with fine brush.
gave them nice used track shade. After using Picking sand and gravel from my backyard with
masking tape I protected the rest of the tracks from strainer, I have provided more material for the final
painting, leaving only the teeth to be painted in a effects. A mixture of those two was placed around
steel colour. The teeth are the most used parts of the turret and on the fenders, etc. With the brush I
the tracks because of friction and they usually get an place them on desired places. Then with Ammo Mig
original polished look of steel/metal so I painted them gravel glue and pipette I glued them to the model. A
like this (Photo 24). little foliage that I modified from a local flower shop
On the other side of the tracks I have added the is added on the turret as bonus camouflage made
25
same texturing tones/effects that I used on the by crew (Photo 27).
lower part of chassis (Photo 25). As the Battle of I would like to say big thanks to Scale-Model-Kits
Kursk happened during the summer, I didn`t want (www.scale-model-kits.com) for providing this kit.
to put wet effects on the model. It`s not that wet
effects were not seen during that period, my vision
of this model was with only dry dirt.

27

26

www.militarymodelling.com 15
 AFV

The Hunting Panther

The Dragon 1/35 Sd.Kfz 173 Jagdpanther Smart Kit (6393) by Andy King
History
With its purposeful look, sloped armour and
powerful 8.8cmPak 43/3 L/71 gun, the Sd.Kfz 173
Jagdpanther is generally considered to be one of
the best tank killers of WW2.
The story of the Jagdpanther began in early 1942.
The initial design stemmed from the requirement
for a heavy assault gun vehicle that mounted an
8.8cm gun. The industrial giant of Friedrich Krupp AG
presented two conceptual drawings of the proposed
vehicle to the Heeres Waffenamt (the people who
issued the requirement). The two drawings were
for vehicles powered by different engines; Deutz-
Stern Diesel and Maybach with the latter eventually
being the preferred power plant. After inspecting a
wooden mock-up there were the usual very nice
but could you change a few things comments so
more parts from the Panther were incorporated into
the design such as the chassis, transmission etc.

These pics show the basic lower hull

with torsion bars installed. The wheels
fitted show the amount of articulation
you can get.

16
 AFV

In October 1942 responsibility for the design
of the new vehicle was handed over to Daimler
Benz as production was due to start in their plant
in 1943, although Krupp was still to assist with the
project, completing a full-scale wooden mock-up
in November 1942. Muehlenbau und Industrie AG
(MIAG) also became involved with the project after
advising Krupp about a couple of details (which goes
to show you should never volunteer for anything),
becoming responsible for making the vehicle.
With all design work finished, production started in
1943 with the first five machines ready in January 1944
for Waffenamt inspectors. Because of those pesky
Allied air raids, production of the Jagdpanther at the
MIAG plant remained at a low rate so contracts were
awarded to MNH and MBA to help increase it.
The first unit to get their hands on the
Jagdpanther was the 654th Schwere Panzerjager
Abteilung who had traded in their Ferdinands for the
new model as early as August 1943. Issued with
orders to gear up as a Jagdpanther unit, Panthers
were used for driver training due to production
delays. The new vehicles finally arrived by train in
May 1944, going into combat two months later
against Allied forces in Normandy.
something to somebody somewhere, however
unless you are modelling a particular vehicle with
the wheels off (maintenance, knocked-out etc.) you
cant see this detail.
The torsion bars can be made to work like the
real thing, just insert the swing arms through the
hull and glue the ends with cyano. This is useful for
dioramas where you need to pose the suspension.
I jumped well ahead of the instructions and fitted
the tracks at this point however the fit of the track-
links is very tight around the sprocket, something to
beware of if you like to fit your tracks after painting.
The actual assembly of the tracks is a breeze as
the fit of the links are really good. The only problem
being I was three links short. Fortunately the spare
links on sprue E came to the rescue. I dry-fitted the
wheels to the axles then glued the tracks to the

The Model
Dragon billed this as a late-production Smart Kit
however its not that smart as its a mid-production
G1, the late production model being a G2. All the
parts are virtually flash-free and require very little
clean up and speaking of parts there are LOTS
in the box, mostly from other Panther kits so the
spares box will benefit hugely. No metal barrel is
supplied, just a one-piece moulded item so well
have to see how we get along with it. At least
therell be no awkward seam to get rid of.
The level of detail on the outside is great and
nicely rendered such as the torch-cut marks on the
ends of plates and weld seams. However there
is very little interior detail apart from a basic gun
breech which is a bit disappointing, especially
if you want that big rear hatch open. There are
a few choices to be made detail-wise so check
your references as to which particular bit goes on
which particular vehicle. You have no less than ten
painting options; three from Schwere Panzer Jaeger
Abteilung 654, one from s.H.Pz.Jg. Abteilung 560
ABOVE: These pics show the track fitment. The fit of the track links around the sprocket is very tight
in the Ardennes region 1944, one from Panzer Lehr and something to be aware of if you like to fit your tracks after painting. BELOW: The way those fan
Regiment 130 and the rest from unidentified units. inserts SHOULD fit.
The model I wanted to build was from Abteilung
654 number 212, as featured in the Gunpower book.
Now this unit usually put all the on-vehicle equipment
at the rear of the vehicle and added a stowage box
to the rear of the upper hull. However this particular
vehicle, according to my references, still had the
factory fitted tool storage racks on the side of the hull
and no stowage box so that will do for me, besides
its painted up in a pretty camouflage scheme.

Construction
The hull is the first bit to attack so I cleaned up
and assembled the wheels then fitted the torsion
bars. The level of detail Dragon has incorporated
on the lower hull is something else and believe it
or not you have a choice of rear swing arms and
suspension bump stops. Obviously this all means

www.militarymodelling.com 17
 AFV
I gave the inside of the periscopes
a coat of Tamiya Clear Green to
represent heavy duty glass.
The modification to the track guards
needed for the etch replacement.
ABOVE LEFT: The kit supplied engine deck mesh. ABOVE RIGHT: A combination of liquid glue and a stiff nylon brush is used to try and replicate the armour plate texture.
BELOW LEFT: The end result - a subtle texture is achieved rather than smooth plastic. BELOW RIGHT: A close up of the foliage tie down loops added from copper wire.
The tracks finally fitted.
wheels, 86 links on the left and 85 on the right.
When completely set these assemblies were
removed to aid painting later on.
The upper and rear hull is next and one of the
features of the particular vehicle Im modelling is the
Flammenvernichter exhaust stacks with the smaller
air intake pipes on one side. Aftermarket items are
available, however there are enough parts in the kit to
chop about to make them.
The fans and radiator inserts that sit below the rear
deck need to be assembled thus; H18 and N7, H17 and
N6 then turned 180 to that shown in the instructions
(bless you Dragon, you had to try and catch me out
with something).
You have a choice of two roofs, so check your
references as to which one is applicable to the
vehicle you are building. For my model I required
part N5 so this was detailed then fixed to the hull. I
did this by using liquid glue initially then followed up
with cyano glue.
Because I was using the Voyager etch track
guards, the holes in the hull for the kit items
were filled in and sanded as the side skirt
mounting brackets are in different places,
probably because the etch set I was
using was originally designed for the
Tamiya kit.
Having looked at the kit barrel and compared it with
web pics of RB Models nice and shiny replacement
item, one magically appeared in my online shopping
cart and by the power of Visa turned up in the post
a few days later. The kit item is OK but those metal
barrels are much sexier, especially with the detailing
inside the muzzle brake.
The upper hull moulding is a bit too smooth and
perfect for my liking so working in small areas I liberally
applied liquid glue to the flat surfaces and while the
glue was still wet I stippled the areas with a hard nylon
paint brush, the type you see in cheapo art stores.
When Id finished covering the hull it was left to harden
for a couple of days then sanded using fine wet and
dry. This technique gives a fairly convincing textured
armour plate effect without going over the top as
German armour was relatively smooth, due to it being
rolled in the steel mills rather than cast.
Time to stick the thing together and this gave me a
bit of a trouble as the upper and lower hull parts didnt
quite fit and needed a bit of chopping around
inside at the front. Again to make a strong
joint I first used liquid glue followed up
with thin cyano; the same where the
upper hull joined the rear plate.
With the hull firmly set I used
the majority of kit parts to finish the
 AFV

ABOVE LEFT: The Rommel kisten bins at the rear were

soldered. My first attempt too. Yippee it worked!

ABOVE RIGHT & RIGHT: More views of the completed

construction. Side skirts were made from ten thou styrene sheet.

BELOW: Games Workshop Chaos Black is sprayed overall for

a good undercoat.

BELOW: The paintwork in good old

fashioned enamel.

detailing, only using etch in a couple of places such as

tool clamps and of course the fan and air intake mesh
covers. The tool and track holders were kit items rather
than etch as after looking at a real Jagdpanther at the
Bovington Tank Museum it was apparent how chunky
these items really were.
The gun cleaning equipment tube was made from
brass stock and relocated from the hull side to the rear
deck and that was pretty much it for construction.

Painting
After giving the model a rinse in warm water and
washing up liquid, it was left to dry then it got
a coat of Games Workshop Chaos Black primer.
Humbrol Matt 94 Brown Yellow enamel (yes
enamel, remember that?) was used for a base coat,
lightened with White 34 for the upper surfaces.
The camo pattern was marked out with a pencil,
carefully following the illustrations in the Gunpower
book. The red brown (Humbrol 186) and green

www.militarymodelling.com
 AFV

ABOVE LEFT: A good coat of Tamiya X-22 Clear followed by Johnsons Future makes a great base for decals. A good tip is before you place a decal on your model; wet the
area with Future first. This avoids tiny air bubbles getting underneath the decal and causing silvering. ABOVE RIGHT: Washes and filters.

(Humbrol 117) were airbrushed free hand, then I

went over the base coat colour again to kill any
overspray. I chose these colours as its easier to
start off light as weathering will darken the model.
To make it shiny for the decals and weathering a
couple of coats of Tamiya X-22 Clear were sprayed
overall. The decals came from the kit and spares
box. The numbers were chopped around a bit to try
and get the style shown in the book. With a drop
of Johnsons Kleer/ Future under the decals to bed
them down and a couple of coats over the entire
model its time to get down and dirty.

Weathering
First off a couple of coats of dark yellow Sin
Industries Filter were brushed over the model to
help tone down the base colours. Using a fine
brush, Migs Dark Brown Wash was run into all the
recesses, corners and panel lines to add some
definition to the model.
To flatten it all down I sprayed matt acrylic
varnish overall before proceeding with the next
stages of weathering.

ABOVE: More Mig stuff, this time

the oil and grease stain mixture
and its highly recommended. Just
remember to put the oil staining
around the correct hatch as the
other one is for water.

LEFT & OPPOSITE: Views of the finished model.

20 Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017


The paint chips were done using Vallejo Iraqi
Sand for the lighter chips and scratches plus Vallejo
German Camo Black/Brown for deeper ones. I
tend to use a fine brush and a sponge for chipping.
Around the lower hull and running gear I airbrushed
a 2:1 mix of Humbrol 29 Dark Earth and 33 Black to
add to the filth.
The upper hull was treated to the arty bit where
different oil colours were dotted all over, then
worked into the paint using a flat edged brush
moistened with thinners.
The mud and dust, build-up of grease and oil etc.
were done with the help of more Mig products and
stuff from AK Interactive
Pigment powder was also liberally applied to the
tracks then graphite was rubbed over the top of
the track links to simulate bare metal. Finally black
pastel chalk was brushed into corners and panel
lines just to add a bit more grime.
www.militarymodelling.com
AFV
Conclusion
Dragon made a great replica of one of my favourite
armoured vehicles with this kit, the only real References
criticism I can level at it is the lack of interior detail Panzertracts 9-3 Jagdpanther.
especially as there is a huge door at the back of the ISBN 0-9771643-0-6
hull superstructure. If you want it open, then either
fill the hole with a crew figure or be prepared for Achtung Panzer No; 4
some extra detailing work yourself. The kit also had (Revised edition)
the individual track links, these days they have been ISBN 4-499-22775-5
replaced with DS Vinyl rubber bands which work for
some modellers but definitely not for me. Sd.Kfz 173 Jagdpanther by
Apart from the mix up with the radiator fans the A.I.W.Markowscy. T. Melleman,
instructions are pretty clear so Dragon is improving T. Skwiot.
in this area. The only thing is to check your
references regarding which vehicle you are building Gunpower 24 by
but you do that anyway (dont you?). AJ Press. ISBN 83-7237-166-0
Accessories Used
Voyager Etch Set PE35015
RB Model 88mm KwK 43/3 L/71
Barrel. Item number 35B04
21
 Figures
Bayonets at
Hougoumont
54mm Private Private Centre Company
Coldstream Guards, 1815 by Ian Succamore
Iconic battle
The plight of the My wife hides things! There, Ive said it. I know Im
in trouble now but its only the scale of the trouble
Coldstream Guards Im in that varies. If Ive lost something then it can
be guaranteed that it has been tidied by my wife. If
at Hougoumont is a piece of a figure gets lost in the carpet, she gets
an amazing story. the blame for this too. Take this figure for example;
I finished painting him back in June 2016. It is now
The battle within the mid-October and this figure remains the last figure
I completed. Because of this lack of productivity I
battle at the Chateaux completely lost my motivationIm sure my wife
is the stuff of legend
has tidied it away somewhere as I remember
having it back when this figure was started. It was
and many aspects of back in April and I had just got home from Sword
and Lance 2016. I met Bill Horan at that show and,
it remain a mystery after watching his demonstration then subsequently
having a very nice chat with the Grand Master I was
to this day. sufficiently inspired to get sculpting.
The Battle of Waterloo is so iconic that many
aspects of the battle never fail to raise my interest.
The plight of the Coldstream Guards at Hougoumont
is an amazing story. The battle within the battle at the
22
Chateaux is the stuff of legend and many aspects of
it remain a mystery to this day. Tales of heroism on
both sides have been passed down in history and
are now told with almost reverential amazement
because of what was endured by the soldiers on
that day in June 1815. Stories such as the Duke
warning Colonel MacDonnell to move his troops out
of some parts of the Chateaux as the roof was on
fire, to Private Clayton being stuck outside the walls
of the Chateaux when his comrades had all retreated
inside its walls. It was during the six hour drive home
from Sword and Lance that I decided that the figure
I wanted to depict would be partaking in one such
event, when bayonets were required to fight off
the French. It is a standard pose with an unbloodied
bayonet ready to lunge towards an adversary.
The pose was chosen and the body parts of the
mannequin were stuck together with superglue. I
have been using Zap a Gap superglue for some
time now. I am not sure if this product has a shelf
life but it seems that recently the sticking power
of this has waned somewhat. Once upon a time
it used to stick an item in seconds. Now I seem
to have to hold the surfaces together for ages
and the stability of the joint is tenuous at best.
One little touch and the piece broke off. If Im
lucky and it does land right in my eye line then I
can have another go at gluing it on. If it doesnt
land in my eye line then my wife swoops over and
tidies it up never to be seen again. How she
manages this without me noticing is beyond me
sometimes. The head was chosen from my stash
of various heads and I was ready to add some
putty. With enthusiasm at an all-time high, I started
modifying the head. This particular one was an old
Hornet head, sculpted by Roger Saunders in the
last millennia. It was cast in white metal which
shows how old it is. It has a wonderfully grumpy
expression that I have liked for years. Occasionally,
I get out my collection of Hornet heads, just to
admire the craftsmanship. I did remove the eyes
as the details were a bit smooth for my liking. I
re-sculpted the eye sockets and eyebrows using a
combination of 1/3 Duro and 2/3 Magic Sculpt. I use
this combination almost exclusively now. The top of
his head was sliced off to accommodate the shako
and the body parts were fleshed out with Magic
sculpt to give the wire armature some volume onto
which the clothes could be sculpted.
Napoleonic equipment
The equipment I use for my Napoleonic creations
are all resin castings of masters I have created
myself over the years. I found from previous
experience that sculpting back packs, shakos, Brown
Bess muskets, bayonets and especially water bottles
is a mind numbingly tedious process. Creating a
master of these parts was the only sensible option.
I took them to my friend Martyn Dorey of Model
Display Products and he cast these items for me. He
did curse a number of times over the delicate nature
of the bayonets but he is a professional grumbler, so
I think he does enjoy it really.
Having a collection of equipment should help me in
the future should I decide to do a vignette or a diorama.
It would be a little odd if they were all carrying different
sized equipment. So I would urge anyone who is into
sculpting to make some masters for themselves and
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017

cast them or take them to a friend at your local club to
see if they can cast them for you. It really speeds up
the figure making process.
The musket did require some extra attention. I
added some fine details to the master copy and,
to show them off at their best it is always a good
idea to sharpen up some of the details with a hobby
knife, such as thinning down the trigger guard or
other parts of the mechanism. This sort of attention
to detail is always sensible on any figure you do, be
it scoring down the edge of a belt or hollowing out
the end of a gun barrel with a tiny drill bit. This will
help with keeping the part in scale and therefore the
realism will be improved. It will also make the piece
much easier to paint.
Each piece of equipment is offered up to the
figure and regularly blue-tacked in place, just to
make sure they look correct with the pose. There
is nothing worse than a nicely posed figure in a
combative stance, in that looks like he is about
to fall over backwards once youve glued all of his
equipment to his back.
Bottoms up
I sculpt figures from the bottom up. Well, almost.
My first job is always to start with the head and
the pose. When I clothe the figure though, it does
tend to be from the shoes upwards. Subsequent
layers tend to go over the previous layers using
this method, so I try to leave off any details that
cant be seen, like the tops of the gaiters for
example (Photo 1). The buttons were made using
a punch and die set. They were punched from
the sheet metal you get around the tops of wine
bottles. I scrape the coloured surface off first, then
roll it flat with the handle of a hobby knife. These
buttons come out so small though that they are
easily lost when in plain sight. I try to collect them
all together on a white sheet of paper before they
all get tidied away. However, this does not save
them from the tickle in the nose that causes a
ferocious sneeze and sends them all scattering in
every direction.
www.militarymodelling.com
Figures
Accentuating joints
When sculpting the folds of clothes it is always 2
worth remembering to accentuate the knees, hips,
elbows and shoulders. These are the landmarks
that the material is pulled from and therefore they
have the most influence over the directions of the
folds. I like to think of them as the anchor points
and the pull points which create a pull direction.
The anchor point of the hips is generally in the
crotch, and the pull point is the top point of the
knee cap. This pull point extends up the thigh back
towards the hip, and therefore this is the general
pull direction that the folds form in. If you draw
a line from crotch to knee, that is fold one. Fold
two will be from crotch to mid-thigh. Fold three
is then from crotch to the top of the thigh. This is
nearly symmetrical on the outside of the thigh from
backside to knee. The same can be said regarding
the arm pit and the elbow. The difficulty comes
when adding the extra cloth folds. These can be
seen on Photo 2 across the fronts of the hips
where the hip joint has caused a series of folds
by the nature of its bent position. These folds will
also appear in the backs of the knees. They will
not run perpendicular to the other folds but will
gradually fan out towards or away from them, with
subtle arcs and changes in direction of the folds
determined by the position of the limb in relation to
the anchor points and the pull points.
When I am in doubt on the anchor point or pull
point any of the folds, I tend to pose in the middle
of the lounge. I adopt the position of the figure and 3
then look at my own trousers to see where the
folds should be and the pull direction of the folds. I
then go back to the figure and try to replicate these.
Rolling out the putty
What do you do with old putty that you havent
used? I frequently get asked this question. I do
have a mangled blob on my desk that will eventually
become a bust. I stick unused pieces of putty on
this that are still soft and workable. The putty that
has partially cured and hasnt got tidied away I tend
to roll out with a hobby knife I use as a rolling pin.
The putty has lost its stickiness by this point and
so doesnt stick to the rolling pin. If it does stick I
liberally coat the rolling pin with fluid before rolling it
again (I lick it!). Saliva seems to have very good non-
stick properties, so I use this method on all of my
sculpting tools to prevent the putty sticking to them.
When the putty is rolled out in this manner you
can get it to an extremely thin sheet. The thinner
the better really. This does not have to be used
immediately. I put mine in a plastic bag and then put
it in the freezer. The bag I use is see-through so it is
not mistaken for any foodstuff. The freezer retards
the curing time of the putty, so that when it is
retrieved and thawed, it is still malleable. The putty
does go off, so eventually it will not be workable or
sticky again, but it does seem to remain malleable
enough to create cross-belts or, in this case, coat
tails and collars (Photo 3). I have a paper template
for these parts of the clothing, along with cuffs,
turned down boots and epaulettes. When the putty
has cured completely then the edges can be made
good by sanding them down as necessary.
Cross belts can also be rolled out from neat Duro.
Once its cured it can then be cut to shape and
23
Figures

4 6

pulled in any direction. This is pretty useful for

sticking down over folds and other details, as seen
in the photographs of the finished sculpt (Photos 4,
5 and 6). In this series you can also see the change
of material used for the buttons. My metal sheet
got tidied away, so I thought I had better use the

24 Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017

 10 Figures

plastic card I had laying around before that got tidied

away as well. Collecting buttons made out of white
plastic card on a white piece of paper was now a
pretty useless exercise. The white piece of paper
had gone missing anyway, so I resorted to using a
blue plastic coaster to store my white buttons on.
This did have my mug of coffee on itbefore that
got tidied away too.

The painted figure

Photos 7 to 10 show the completed figure. The
braiding was painted on with a pure white line along
the top of the white strip and a dark red line along
the bottom to give the sense of relief. Everything
was painted in acrylics apart from the brass areas,
which were painted in printers inks and oils.
I was very pleased with the final result. He
has been received with great approval by all who
have seen him at the shows I have taken him to,
culminating in a bronze medal at Euro-Militaire.
He was a hugely enjoyable project! But what
happened to my mojo after this? It seems to
have gone to the same place as the pieces of
the figure I have lost. The buttons, the pieces of
bayonet and the small blobs of putty are now lost
forever. Just like my mug of coffee, though, my
mojo will return, but it does seem that my wife 9
gets the blame for tidying away many thingsor
maybe its just me!
If you wish to know more then please find me
on Facebook or send me a message on the Military
Modelling Website.

www.militarymodelling.com 25
 AFV

Scratch one
Inspired by Military Modelling, Keith Sharples presents his scratchbuilt Mk.IV

Bow shot of the finished vehicle.
The turrets rotate and the Q/F
guns move up and down.
Introduction
I first started model making as a young lad in the
mid/ late 60s of the last century. On a Saturday
morning, I would be given my spending money,
a half crown (by this time we had stopped using
groats or barter) now 12 new pence, from Dad.
I would walk into the small Yorkshire market town
where I lived and buy a kit, usually in 1/72, because
it was the cheapest. Planes, tanks, trucks etc.
anything was fair game to me. By six that evening,
it would be built, complete with an immaculate
finishing coat of gluey finger prints and no paint.
Then I grew up, or at least I think I might have.
Married, got kids, renovated a house then, after
30 years when I had just got the house finished
to our liking, we found that we disliked each other
so much that we divorced and I started again. I
got remarried to a wonderful woman and then
rediscovered the pleasure of the hobby. Or, more
to the point, re-established my plastic addiction.
Being a mature returnee to the modelling
world was a real eye opener for me, what with
the introduction of air brushes and weathering
techniques and such. I built a couple of WW1 figures/
dioramas. I then bought some tank kits with the idea
to build at least one 1/35 unit from each manufacturer.
But just building an empty shell didnt cut it for me, so I
built the engines, transmissions, gun breech and other
interior detailing.
Then my first attempt at a scratch build was
a 1/35 truck, a Guy Big J 4t chassis cab tractor
unit. All I purchased was the wheels and I was so
pleased with the final results that I decided to go
for the WW1 Mk.IV Male.

26 Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017


ABOVE LEFT: Initial 1/35 scale plans from the net used for this build. ABOVE RIGHT: The two inner and outer track carrier side plates cut and clamped with small bolts to
facilitate accurate drilling and sanding.
ABOVE LEFT: L/H track carrier assembled with the R/H one to be built. Note the door aperture on the unmade inner track plate to enable access to the drivers position.
Mk.IV Male
ABOVE RIGHT: L/H outer track carrier detailing has begun using flat bar, L section, sheet and cut disks. Also note the armour panels are scribed.
Starting the build
My inspiration for this project was the feature on the
WW1 German A7V in the June 2015 edition of this
publication. I spent a year thinking about it, built the
truck to experiment, then in June this year (2016)
read the feature on the British WW1 Mk.1 H.M.L.S
Kia-Ora, and thought I should be able to scratch-build
one myself, but at the same time, detail the interior
as in the A7V model in the earlier edition.
So I bought a set of 1/35 resin tracks from the
net, found a set of scale plans for an Mk.IV Male,
printed off some images of vehicles, power plant,
transmission etc. I purchased the plasti-card and
various profiles and away I went.
I started the build by tracing out onto plasti-card
two outer walls of the track carriers then the two
inner walls, cutting them out and clamping them
together to drill out the required holes for the drive
sprocket and idler wheels. At this point, I also
sanded all four sides to achieve an even uniform
www.militarymodelling.com
AFV
shape. The holes for 26 rollers for each side were ABOVE LEFT: Test fitting of the
sponsons and floor pan.
also drilled, so they are all in the same place on
each side. I cut the idlers and sprockets from flat ABOVE RIGHT: The turret apertures in
card, as they wont be seen due to the tracks added both sponsons were cut too large as
can be seen here ooops.
spacers made from sprue tree to keep them central
to support the tracks. The 52 rollers are made from
8mm round bar and spacers, the detail of which will
also be covered by the tracks.
The tracks clipped together very easily and I
installed them to get a better picture of the build,
then began the detailing of the vehicles outer
walls using flat and round bar, L and C section
LEFT: The Q/F guns were a small model
in their own right. The small tube at the
top is the sighting tube with eye rest.
27
 AFV
ABOVE LEFT: Front glacis with vision ports and armoured port closers. ABOVE RIGHT: Roof supports in place. BELOW LEFT: Again the engine is a model in its own right. This image
shows the basic engine and the picture I used for the build. BELOW RIGHT: Here the track carrier floor is installed to cover the two rollers. Also that gem of an engine.
ABOVE: Ensuring the engine fitted
and looked right. Note on the roof
is a red plastic disk and shaft. This is
the beginnings of the transmission
fabrication.
RIGHT: Inlet and exhaust manifolds are
installed, as is the electrical conduit for
the spark plug leads from the distributor.
RIGHT: Here is the skeleton of the
transmission build.
28
profile. The D shackles to the rear and bow section
are shaped copper wire. Rivet detail is all hand
painted using Mr. Surfacer 500. I built the two gun
sponsons from flat card, the Q/F and Lewis guns
are made from various profile types. The curved
armour plate on the front of the Q/F guns is plunge
moulded plasti-card. Turrets are made from 22mm
waste pipe as used for toilet cistern overflow pipe,
(New pipe, that is), sourced from my local DIY store.
Disks of plasti-card are glued to the top roof of the 4mm L section profile for roof support, made the
sponsons to keep the turrets in situ as they turn. seats from window board and the steering levers
I then built the floor pan and bow glacis plates from copper wire and sprue for the handles; the
with the front face of the cab and attached c/w pedals and cab floor are off cuts of plasti-card.
vision covers. I added square frames of 4mm x
Power plant and transmission
Now on to what, for me at least, is the really
interesting part of the build. The power plant is a
replica of the Daimler six cylinder petrol engine. The
sump and upper crankcase are made from offcuts of
glazing window sill board. Why? Because it is high
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017
 AFV

ABOVE LEFT: The yellow flywheel at the rear of the engine is a plastic bottle cap filled with Milliput. Also the transmission is now fleshed out with the putty.
ABOVE RIGHT: Engine painted showing oil pump and tank, distributor and fuel lift pump.

ABOVE LEFT: It looks better for paint. ABOVE RIGHT: Remember that Ooops on the sponson aperture. Here it is repaired; also a scratch Lewis gun.

ABOVE LEFT: Cab floor, seats and control levers. ABOVE RIGHT: Remember that sighting tube, it lines up with the small vertical hole on the turret. Q/F guns painted and
two scratch Lewis guns in the background.

density uPVC plastic foam which is easy to cut, trim,
sand and shape and can be glued with CA or liquid/
gel poly glue. It also takes the fillers and paints we
use extremely well and has the thickness of profile
we need to fabricate larger items like engine blocks,
radiators, etc. I dont think you can buy 10 or 12mm
thick plasti-card and even if you could, it would be
50 to 70 per A4 sheet. The six cylinders are 8mm
round bar and the detailing is from flat, round and
square bar. The taper of the crank case at the four
mounting points is achieved using Squadron Putty.
The exhaust and inlet manifolds are sprue-tree from
other kits. The front damper is made from disks
cut from plasti-card and the rear crank housing is
fashioned from Milliput All items primed by brush
with Mr. Surfacer 500 to fill any unwanted gaps,
then the crankcase is air-brushed with Tamiya XF58
Olive Green, the inlet manifold brushed with Revell
99 aqua Aluminium, the exhaust dabbed with Mr.
Surfacer 500 for the texture of rust and brushed with
Revell Enamel 83 Rust, Leather 84 and Revell Aqua
36 Carmine Red then dabbed with a short bristled
brush to imitate rust.
The transmission was made by first cutting a
disk of red plastic from a milk bottle cap. I drilled a
hole in the centre and inserted some rod the same
width of the tank body and cut a piece of flat card
to mimic the outer shape/profile of the differential.
I cut a groove in the plasti-card, slotted the disk
through and glued it in place. Then I added a hub at
each end to define the final width of the differential
drive. The shaped flat card serves three purposes,
1: to stiffen the Milliput for handling purposes, 2:
to provide the required profile from a top down
view and 3: imitate the flange where the upper and
lower halves would be bolted together enclosing
the Crown Wheel and Pinion gears and the half
shaft to the final drive gears. So we now have the
width, height and diameter of the main part of the
differential drive unit.
The Standard Milliput epoxy putty was used
to flesh out the final shape because it can be
moulded, filed, drilled, sanded and carved when ABOVE: A more detailed image of the
cured. Now I have a differential drive that mimics inside of a turret and Lewis guns.
not only the shape, profile and size of the real life
item but also the texture of cast iron, which the
casing would be made from. The point of the red
plastic disk is that, when shaping and smoothing
the Milliput, the red plastic of the disk was instantly
visible. Two lifting eyes were fabricated from copper

www.militarymodelling.com 29
 AFV
ABOVE: The interior is really getting busy now. Note the radiators and tooth paste cap meshing helical gears.
ABOVE: Engine, transmission and R/H
track carrier is installed. R/H sponson
and exhaust are in the background, as
is the Guy Big J 4t truck.
BELOW: All the sub-assemblies are now
an assembly with first coat of paint.
30
wire for the top of the unit then the underside
was detailed using various profiles as required.
It was primed with Mr. Surfacer 500 and sprayed
Tamiya XF58 Olive Green to match the power plant/
engine. When the paint was dry, I sprayed both sub-
assemblies with Johnsons Clear to seal the paint as
both items would be handled quite a lot during the
build process.
The tapered meshing drive gears are ribbed
toothpaste tube caps cut in two so one meshes
with the other like tapered gears would. The two
radiators are made from window board and the
radiator grill effect is old vertical blind material, glued
to the plastic with cyanoacrylate glue, to imitate the
cooling vanes of a radiator. Filler neck and cap are
made from sprue tree. These were brush painted
with Citadel Salamander Black then dry brushed
with Citadel Bolt Gun metal.
Pre-assembly and paint
Everything was then pre-assembled without glue
to make sure everything went together and looked
right. I then fabricated the roof, signallers hut and
finished the rear and roof parts of the cab. I installed
the Lewis guns using Milliput for the rotating ball.
I built the exhaust silencer from 10mm tube with
the ends blanked off with plasti-card and bent the
pipe to shape using heat from a tea light candle.
Then, using a short, stiff bristled brush the exhaust
parts were dabbed with Mr. Surfacer 500 to imitate
the texture of rusted metal. Again using a dabbing
motion the items were painted with Revell Enamel
83 Rust, Enamel 84 Leather and Revell Aqua 36
Carmine Red then blended to imitate rust. This
was then set aside as it will be the last part to be
installed after the painting and weathering (mud
glorious mud) stages of the build.
The interior was lightly primed using an Aztek
Airbrush with a General Purpose, (grey) nozzle. This
was used to spray Vallejo White Acrylic Surface
Primer diluted 50% with Vallejo Air Brush Thinner.
Over the period of a week the final assembly of the
sub-assemblies began and after eight weeks work
the tank started to finally take shape. As each sub
assembly became an assembled item, I dirtied the
interior floor and walls with a Royal Langnickel wash
of Burnt Umber and white spirit mix for a thinned
consistency. I figured that these vehicles would
be almost as filthy on the inside as on the outside
because the crew would be walking through mud
to mount the vehicle. So it would be on the floor,
walls but not the underside of the roof. Also the
floor beneath the engine and transmission would
have black oil spillages as the engines shafts of 100
years ago would have been sealed with things like
hemp, not the modern rubber oil seals we have
today. Also of course the engines would be worn
out by the high revolutions of the engine turning
gears that would propel the heavy machine forward
at no greater than walking pace, only 3 to 4mph.
So Citadel Salamander Black was dabbed over the
floor area where oil would be spilled and difficult to
clean up.
The main build went along as expected and all
the sub-assemblies came together. First off, the
floor pan was glued to the left track carrier and left
overnight to set. Then the right side was glued and
clamped in place and again, left overnight. Some
filler was needed to avoid see through where the
floor pan wasnt a perfect fit with the sides. This
was dealt with using Squadron Green Putty applied
on the underside, or belly, of the floor pan then
smoothed off on the inside. Then it was the turn of
the sponsons followed by the cab roof and the main
body roof. The main body roof is deliberately made
to be removable so that the interior detail may be
viewed closer. The transmission hatch handles are
copper wire.
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017
 AFV

She is finished. The hull roof

lifts off to view the interior.

The main paint job

and weathering
Before the main paint job began, I
masked off all the open apertures with
Tamiya masking tape. I also fixed the doors
and hatches in place temporarily using
Copydex Rubber Adhesive. I then brushed
the front outer hull sides and cab roof with
Revell Aqua 05 White. When dry, I applied
a single band of Revell Aqua 36 Carmine Red
to depict the recognition bands. This was
applied by brush as it would have been 100
years ago behind the front lines. When this
was dry I masked up the recognition bands as
required then, without priming, I applied two light
coats of Tamiya XF49 Khaki. To break up the solid
Khaki there followed, at low pressure, a random
light spattering of Tamiya XF52 Flat Earth and XF68
NATO Brown. The tracks were then brush painted
with the NATO Brown for a Rust effect. All of which
was sealed with 2 light coats of Johnsons Floor vehicle, she certainly is not perfect
Polish to seal the colours prior to weathering and and neither are my modelling skills.
the application of MUD glorious MUD. But she is the very first of, hopefully, many
future scratch built AFVs from the workbench
of this mature modelling
Mud, mud and more mud returnee. I hope this will
The mud is a mixture of used tea leaves mixed inspire others to believe that
with Poly Vinyl Acetate, or white glue as some nothing is too difficult if you
may know it. This was randomly dabbed on where set your mind to the task you
mud would be spattered up the sides and over the wish to complete.
tracks. Because of the amount of mud on the battle
fields of the Western Front, these vehicles would be
caked in it as the battle progressed. A final couple
of coats of Pledge were applied to seal everything
onto the tank. I then coated the mud with Polyvine
Acrylic Gloss Lacquer to alter the look of the mud
from dry mud into a wet mud.
Finally, the exhaust system was glued in place
and finished with a coat of Polyvine Dead Flat
Acrylic Varnish, to give a matt effect as a hot
exhaust would not retain water, it would just boil off
with the heat. The open drivers cab escape hatch
was glued in place, as was one of the transmission
cover hatches. The rear escape hatch and the two
sponson doors were also glued in place, one open
to show the interior of the turrets, Q/F and Lewis
gun details.

The end
So there she/he is. The only item that was
purchased pre-formed was the resin tracks, every
other part of this build is fabricated out of modellers
profile and plasti-card from Dorspring Models and I think I should have
general, everyday household items. She may not dirtied the underside of
the raised drivers escape
portray an actual machine as such, she may not hatch and engine cover.
carry every rivet and bolt head or nut of an original But hey hoShe is finished.

www.militarymodelling.com 31
Diorama
1
More free and easy buildings:
Concrete, Brick and Wood
A range of building Introduction
materials, once As my previous article showed, the sort of
expanded polystyrene used for food packaging such
again on a budget as pizza bases is not only particularly effective at
by Roger Merry modelling stone surfaces but its also very easy to
represent lots of other building materials, including
concrete, brick and wood. Its free and readily
available, and its properties make it an excellent
modelling material for military dioramas.
Concrete, cement & rendering etc.
Most examples of food packaging are slightly
textured and you may be able to use it just as it is
to represent these surfaces, though slight texturing
with a suede brush or something similar will
probably improve it. (Photo 1) shows an example
of a concrete garage front under construction. The
surface was bashed with a nylon brush, painted
off white and weathered with a soft pencil, rubbed
around to achieve a suitably disgusting finish in just
a couple of minutes.
Pizza bases are usually about 4mm thick, so you
may sometimes want to stick two or more layers
together where the thickness of the wall can be seen,
as in a window or door reveal. If so, its worth adding a
smear of filler to disguise the join, again as in photo 1.
The next section describes how to make a basic
concrete bunker. For simplicity, it uses a food
container, so it isnt a model of a real bunker, but
the techniques described could be used just as
effectively to create an accurate model. It took
about 15 minutes to make and cost nothing.
32
2
A concrete bunker
The basic structure - The first stage is to go and
buy some fish and chips! (In fact, cartons like the
one in the picture are used for a wide variety of
food.) Remove the chips and dispose of them as
you think fit, then gently wash the inside with soap
and hot water. Cut off the end of the carton and
make a firing slit of the size you want, but be sure
to use a very sharp blade - although the material is
very soft and easy to cut, a blunt blade will tend to
tear it. (Photo 2)
That may be all you want to do for the basic
structure, but if you want a back to your bunker,
you can either cut a flat piece from the lid, or use
the other end of the carton. For gluing, Copydex
works well. In this case, I also wanted to model the
thickness of the concrete and the way the firing slit
slopes inwards in steps to give a wide arc of fire
while protecting the occupants as much as possible.
To do this, I simply glued some bits of the material
on the inside.
Adding texture and battle damage
Now comes the interesting bit! Its worth
experimenting here and Ive used a range of stiff-
bristled brushes over the years to add texture.
In this case, I only wanted a very light effect
to represent concrete in 1/72, so used a nail
brush. Whatever you use, a minute of enjoyable
therapeutic bashing will probably be plenty and you
could also add some lightly scribed lines to show
where the concrete sections have been joined.
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017

4 5
6 7
Before I discovered Copydex, Id tried using
polystyrene glue to join pieces of expanded
polystyrene together but the results were disastrous
because the glue actually melted the surface.
However, if you want to inflict heavy damage on
your poor old bunker, polystyrene glue is perfect!
Be careful, though, and only smear on a very small
amount at a time. This is how the damage was done
in the photographs. (Photo 3) Another technique is
to dribble small separate drops of the glue, without
spreading it, to look like the sort of damage that
might be caused by heavy machine gun bullets.
Finally, as with the garage, I gently rubbed a soft
pencil over the surface to weather it (Photo 4 & 5).
Brickwork
This can be scribed in the same way as stone, as
discussed in the earlier article, though it can get
very fiddly and if you model in a small scale or
want a large expanse of brickwork, it probably isnt
worth the risk of losing both your eyesight and your
sanity! However, for small patches, or if you want to
simulate damaged bricks, its worth a try.
There are two possible techniques for marking
out the bricks. The first is to use a small embossing
press made from rectangular Plastruct tube or
similar or the end of a small paintbrush with the
bristles removed, squeezed with pliers to get the
right rectangular shape. Ive seen some excellent
results and it can work well if you want a wall
showing only stretcher bricks. However, if you
wanted to model a bond made up of headers too,
www.militarymodelling.com
Diorama
such as Flemish bond, youd need two presses
(Photos 6 and 7).
I personally prefer to scribe the bricks, though it
can be quite fiddly and hard to keep track of exactly
where youre up to, so there are a couple of ways to
make life a bit easier:
Shine a light at a low angle over the surface to
highlight the shadows of where youve already
scribed. If youre right-handed, put the light on the
left so youre not working in your own shadow.
Paint the areas to be scribed lightly before you
start so that the scriber scratches the paint off,
again making it easy to keep track of what youve
done. Painting the bricks first also acts as a keep
off sign for unpainted areas such as lintels or
cornerstones. This is one time when I might use a
transparent plastic ruler rather than a steel one, so I
can see whats below.
Dont forget to scribe the insides of any reveals
such as door or window openings. Ive actually
found it surprisingly difficult to scribe a neat straight
line in reveals, so I use the blunt side of a blade
pressed into the surface. The effect of the courses
going round the corners is particularly pleasing.
Whether you emboss or scribe the bricks, its
definitely worth adding mortar and the finished
effect is very realistic. Once the paint has
thoroughly dried, rub some runny filler, tinged with
grey, over the whole surface, then immediately
wipe it off. The texture of the mortar courses is
much more like the real thing than if you use paint.
Dont worry if traces of filler stay on the brick
surfaces, as it dulls down the colours and help give
33
Diorama
8 9
10
a nice texture to the whole wall. (Photos 8 & 9)
11 show some scribed bricks in 1/72 before and after
filler has been added, though the mortar courses in
this example are perhaps rather thick.
If all this sounds a bit daunting or tedious, the
easiest alternative is of course brick paper, available
in a wide range of colours, scales and patterns
from firms like Metcalfe, Superquick and Howards
Scenics. Some firms offer downloadable sheets of
brickpaper to print off from their websites, including
some free ones (Just search for download brick
12
34
paper or similar in your internet search engine).
If you do decide to use brick paper, expanded
polystyrene still makes an excellent base for the
walls and its thickness means you can get nice
reveals in the windows and doorways by folding the
paper back into them.
Having for years rather dismissed brick paper,
Im currently experimenting with making my own
using photographs of real walls, re-sized and
straightened up in Photoshop. (Photo 10) shows
an example, made up of several copied and
pasted pieces (Photo 11).
If you want more texture than brick paper gives
but dont fancy scribing your own, you can also buy
unpainted sheets of embossed card or plastic bricks
in various scales and patterns from firms like Wills
and Slaters or Howards Scenics. If the embossing
is deep enough (as with the Wills sheets) or if you
scribe your own, its definitely worth adding filler for
the mortar, as described earlier,
Going back to expanded polystyrene, theres a
particularly nice effect which is very appropriate
for the ruined buildings often seen on military
dioramas. It occurs on brick buildings covered in
cement or similar, where part of the rendering has
crumbled away leaving the brickwork below visible.
If you want any depth or realism, such an effect
would probably require two layers and quite a bit
of skill using traditional modelling materials but its
very quick and easy with expanded polystyrene.
Just mark out the area where you want the
bricks to show through, using a sharp blade, then
press down this section with a flat screwdriver or
something similar. This will immediately give you
a lower area which can be scribed, painted and
filled to represent the brickwork. The effect is very
 Diorama

12 14

pleasing because of the depth and different textures

of the cement and brick, but its really easy to
achieve and can all be done in a few minutes on a
single piece of poly (Photo 12).
15
Wood
New, undamaged, painted wood needs little or no
texturing except perhaps for some light grain effects
done with a blade and gaps between planks can
simply be scribed. To represent overlapping wooden
boards, theres a technique which is far quicker than
cutting and gluing separate strips but which looks
just as effective. First, mark out the top plank, not
with a scriber but with a sharp blade. Then, instead
of moving the straight edge down to the next plank,
leave it in place and press it down before lifting it
off. This will leave a neat step which simulates the
overlapping boards nicely. If youve pressed down
too enthusiastically and the step looks too thick,
all you need to do is press gently on the bottom of
board above to reduce the thickness (Photo 13).
Old, grainy wood is also beautifully easy to
replicate simply by scoring the surface with a blade,
and you can add knots, nail holes, rotting areas
and battle damage to your hearts content. After
painting, talc or weathering powder bring out the
grain and give a nice matt finish (Photo 14 & 15).
Half-timbered buildings are also easy to make
by combining some of the techniques already
described, and the final effect is a lot better than flat
card because of the different depths and textures 16
you can achieve. First mark out the wooden beams
with a blade, then, if you want the infill to be at a
lower level, press down the lower areas so that the
beams stand out. Although this difference in levels
is common in mock Tudor buildings and frequently
seen on models, the wooden beams on real half-
timbered buildings were usually flush with the infill
and you may therefore decide not to create the
lower level. Add some grain to the timber with the
blade, paint and weather, and thats it (Photo 16).

Conclusion
In all modelling, theres a balance between the final
result and the amount of time, money and skill at
the modellers disposal. This article has tried to
show that pizza bases etc. are not only free but
also have properties that make them very easy to
work with without compromising results. However,
even I have to admit that the material isnt suitable
for all modelling and hopefully a further article will
describe how to use it in conjunction with other
materials to make realistic-looking buildings.

www.militarymodelling.com 35
 History
The Engineer Volunteers of
1859-1908
TOP: Band of the 1st Flintshire
Engineer Volunteer corps c1890. In the
centre of the group, and wearing white
belts, is the Bandmaster who, as such,
was permitted to wear the officers
undress forage cap. The remainder of
the band are wearing field service caps
and display on their shoulder straps
the embroidered title I over F.
RIGHT: Other ranks helmet plate of
the 2nd Gloucestershire Engineer
Volunteer Corps. The title scrolls
clearly indicate the unit and to which
admin formation it belonged.
BELOW: Print showing Volunteer
Engineers at work.
36
Part 2* Counties D to H
by Ray Westlake
Denbighshire (9)
The market town of Wrexham was once served by
both the old Great Western and Great Central Railways.
Britains first lager brewery was started there in
1881; tanning and the mining of coal also providing
employment for its Victorian and Edwardian population.
The 1st Denbighshire EVC was raised at Wrexham
early in 1861, its first officers being commissioned
on June 11. However recruiting did not go well and
disbandment came at the beginning of 1864.
Devonshire (16)
The 1st Devonshire EVC was formed at Torquay on
January 28 1862 and in August 1869 became part of
the 1st Admin Battalion of Gloucestershire Engineer
Volunteers having until that date, and from April
1863, been attached to the 1st Devonshire Rifle
Volunteer Corps. Torquay, market town and seaside
resort on Tor Bay, lies 23 miles from Exeter. In 1880
the Gloucester Admin Battalion was consolidated
as the 1st Gloucestershire Corps, the Devonshire
personnel becoming at the same time its E and F
Companies. But 1889 would see Devonshire once
more in the Army List within the Engineer Volunteer
section. The 1880 merger had also included
engineer companies from Somersetshire (Nailsea
and Weston-Super-Mare) and these, together
with the Devonshire personnel (now recorded
as from Torquay and Exeter), were withdrawn to
form a new corps designated 1st Devonshire and
Somersetshire. Headquarters were placed at Exeter
and the original commissions were dated June 15,
1889. Territorials: Wessex Divisional Engineers.
Durham (20)
Jarrow, on the south bank of the Tyne Charles
Palmers shipbuilding yard employed some 80%
of the towns Victorian and Edwardian workforce.
Others made a living from local collieries, marine
engineering and chemical works. The 1st Durham
EVC was formed at Jarrow on March 28, 1868
and had attached to it in January of the following
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017
 History

year the 1st Newcastle-Upon-Tyne Corps. Then,

in May 1874, the two were grouped together
under the title of 1st Admin Battalion of Durham
Engineer Volunteers. Consolidation came in 1880;
the original title being 1st Durham and Newcastle-
Upon-Tyne. This, however, was amended by January
1881 to 1st Newcastle-Upon-Tyne and Durham;
therefore recognising the seniority of the former.
Establishment was set at 13 companies of which
A to E were provided by the old 1st Newcastle
Corps, F to M by Durham. The year 1888 saw yet
further reorganisation. There were seven Durham
companies by now, sufficient, it was thought, to
constitute a corps in their own right. Subsequently
the first officers of a new 1st Durham were
commissioned on November 17, 1888. Territorials:
Durham (Fortress) Engineers.

Edinburgh (City) (3)

Lieutenant-General Sir James Moncrieff Grierson
notes in his book: Records of the Scottish Volunteer
Force, how the 1st Edinburgh (City) EVC comprised
civil engineers, architects, surveyors and artisans.
Strength: a sub-division at first (raised July 3, 1860),
then from 20th September of the same year, a full
company under the command of Captain J Millar.
Millar, however, resigned in 1862, thus reducing
the establishment once more to a half-company.
But although capably led by First-Lieutenant G
Cunningham and attached to the 1st Lanarkshire
EVC for drill and administration, the 1st Edinburgh
would be disbanded in 1865.

Essex (15)
Heybridge is a large village situated in the Maldon
district of east Essex on the north side of the
Blackwater. Here is the mainly Norman St Andrews
Church, its massive squat tower supported by a 16th
Century brick buttress. Close by, on the canal bank near
the corner of Hall Road and Heybridge Street, stood
the works of E H Bentall & Co which gave employment
to some 600-700 local people in its manufacture of
agricultural implements and machinery. Perhaps a good
number of themtheir engineering skills would have
been numerousenrolled in the 1st Essex EVC whose
first officers were gazetted on December 24, 1861. The
corps, however, was disbanded in 1871 and was not
shown in the Army List after June of that year.
Flintshire (18)
Hope, just over five miles from Wrexham and
situated on both sides of the Alyn, is the first
headquarters recorded for the 1st Flintshire EVC.
Of one company, the corps was formed on May 19,
1863 and was at first placed under the care of the
1st Admin. Battalion of Flintshire Rifle Volunteers.
But there would be, by November 1863, a transfer
to a more suited engineer admin formation, the 1st
Lancashire. Hope was also known by other names:
Estyn, and sometimes Queens Hope after Queen
Eleanor who lodged in the village while on her way
to Carnarvon with Edward I. But Buckley, just to
the north-west, appears to have been preferred to
Hope and subsequently, in November 1869 and just
three years after the railway had reached the town,
headquarters were moved.
ABOVE: Engineer Volunteer officer thought to have been of
the 1st Gloucestershire EVC.
RIGHT: Sapper, 1st Gloucestershire Engineer Volunteer
Corps c1895 (Courtesy of Major R McDuell)
Buckley. A well populated town where the
production of course earthenware, firebricks and tiles
provided employment for many. In 1879 the word
Buckley even appeared as part of the official title of the
corps. Yet another change, this time in its attachment
from 1st Lancashire to 1st Cheshire EVC, took place in
1897 an association which took the Buckley engineers
through to March 1908 and disbandment.
Glamorgan (14)
Formed on December 31, 1861, the 1st Glamorgan
EVC had its headquarters at Dowlas where, close
to Merthyr Tydfil, the Dowlais Iron Company is said
to have employed some 10,000 in its production of
iron, tin bars, rails and other steel items. Attachment
was to the 2nd Glamorgan Rifle Volunteers until June
1864 when a transfer was made to the countys
2nd Rifle Admin Battalion. Never a strong corps, 1st
Glamorgan EVC was disbanded in 1871 and was last
shown in the Army List for October of that year.

www.militarymodelling.com 37
 History

Side drum, 1st Gloucestershire Engineer Volunteer Corps.

ABOVE: Territorial. Note his Imperial

Service broach.
Gloucestershire (7)
The 1st Admin Battalion of Gloucestershire Engineer
Volunteers was formed with headquarters at
Bristol in July 1867 included was the countys two
engineer corps. The 1st Corps had been formed in
Gloucester on January 28. 1861 and prior to joining
the 1st Admin Battalion had been attached, firstly to
Gloucesters 1st Rifle Admin formation and then until
December 1864, to the 2nd Gloucestershire EVC.
The 2nd Gloucestershire EVC was formed at
Bristol in April 1861, its original establishment of Swindon and the railways connection with the 2nd
two companies being raised to four in 1864. From Gloucestershire EVC disappeared entirely.
its beginning, the corps had a strong connection In 1867 the strength of the 2nd Corps was
with the railway. It was raised almost entirely increased to six companies. A seventh followed in
from staff at the locomotive works of the Bristol 1868, but in 1870 two would be lost. Appointed to
& Exeter Railway Company. The Headquarters command the company raised in 1868 was Captain
were located at the companys premises near Edmund Carter Plant who had joined the corps as
to the station at Temple Meads and the Works a sapper in 1864 and subsequently, in 1874, went
Secretary and Locomotive Superintendant on to take overall command of 2nd Gloucestershire
were among the officers. However, in 1866 the EVC. Quickly he went about replacing the two lost
headquarters were moved from the works to the companies, adding a new 6th in 1876, followed by a
Bristol Corn Exchange. Later, in 1876 and upon 7th the following year.
the amalgamation of the Bristol & Exeter with Upon the consolidation in 1880 of the 1st
the Great Western, the works were removed to Gloucestershire Admin Battalion a new, and

38 Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017

 History

larger, corps was to be formed under the title of

1st Gloucestershire (Gloucester, Somerset and
Devon); the battalion, in addition to Gloucestershire
corps, also included those from Somerset and
Devon. The 2nd Gloucestershire henceforth lost its
independence and carried on as lettered companies
within the new formation. But the 2nd wanted no
part in this arrangement and subsequently, even
though the intended merger had been announced in
the London Gazette, Colonel Plant was successful
in having the order reversed. Gloucestershire then
would retain its two engineer corps, albeit that the
senior of the pair would hereafter include personnel
from outside the county.
Headquarters of the new 1st Corps were placed
at Gloucester and its nine companies organised as
follows: A to D at Gloucester (late 1st Gloucestershire
EVC), E Torquay (late 1st Devon), F Exeter (late
1st Devon), G and H Nailsea (late 1st Somerset),
I Weston-Super-Mare (late1st Somerset). During
1885 an additional company trained in the duties
of submarine miners was formed at Cardiff. This
changed the sub-title to Gloucester, Somerset, Devon
and Glamorgan. In addition to this, the Army List for
January 1886 also shows The Western Counties
Engineer Volunteer Corps as being part of the full unit
designation. This, however, was shortened to The
Western Counties in March.
From 1886 all existing submarine mining
companies of engineers corps were withdrawn
to form divisions of the newly created Volunteer
Submarine Miners. As a result, the Cardiff
contingent (now two companies) became the
division responsible for the River Severn.
As 1st Gloucestershire once again comprised just
companies from Gloucestershire, Somerset and
Devon, the word Glamorgan was removed from its
title. But further changes were to take place in 1889
when in July of that year the Somerset and Devon
personnel were removed to form a new corps
designated as 1st Devonshire and Somersetshire.
Also in July corps the headquarters were transferred
to Cheltenham and the sub-titles removed from the
Army List. The full title of the corps was now known
as the 1st Gloucestershire EVC.
Although it remained as an independent unit
in 1880, the 2nd Corps was attached to the 1st
until late 1881. The sub-title The Bristol Engineer
Volunteer Corps was added in the same year. In
1876 the Clifton College Cadet Corps was formed
and attached to the 2nd Gloucestershire. This, the
first engineer cadet corps, supplied a large number
of recruits for the battalion and a number of former
pupils served for many years as its officers. At one
time no less than 13 of the 20 serving officers were
Old Cliftonians.
A cadet company was also raised by the 1st Corps Hampshire (13) Plate from Collecting Metal Shoulder
Titles by Ray Westlake showing a
at Weston-Super-Mare and this was to appear in the The countys original 1st Corps was formed at selection of metal titles introduced
shortly after transferral of the
Army List between February 1880 and June 1888. Southampton on January 25 1862, but this would Volunteer Force to the Territorial Force
Another company of cadets were affiliated to the 1st be disbanded in 1881 and its personnel absorbed in 1908.
Corps in 1889, this time those raised by Cheltenham by the 2nd Hampshire Rifle Volunteers. On April 1,
College were attached to the 2nd Volunteer Battalion 1891 a new 1st Corps was raised, its headquarters
Gloucestershire Regiment, but it was to return to this time being placed in Portsmouth. There would
its infantry affiliation in late 1903. Territorials: 1st also, for a time, be a cadet company located at
Gloucestershire: Gloucester and Worcester Brigade Weymouth. This, however, would later be disbanded
Company, Army Service Corps; 2nd Gloucestershire: and was not seen in the Army List after March
part of South Midland Divisional Engineers. At the 1902. Territorials: Hampshire (Fortress) Engineers.
same time, Clifton College cadets became part of the *Part 1 of this series appeared in Military Modelling
Junior Division OTC. Vol.47 Issue.2

www.militarymodelling.com 39
 Aviation
Hooker Nose Art
Canadian CH-147D Chinook Nose Art in Afghanistan by Ed Storey
ABOVE: A stunning Canadian Forces
photograph of 205 2 For Hooking!
and 206 JackD Up Old No. 7 The nose art applied to Allied aircraft during
taken on the KAF ramp shortly after
Tim Patry had applied his in-theatre
artwork. CF DND
RIGHT: Canadian CH-147C Chinook
147006 is preparing to lift a FMC
produced Lynx Command and
Reconnaissance vehicle during a
training exercise in 1976. CF DND
BELOW: Weighed down with weapons
and equipment, Canadian and Allied
troops board Chinook 204 Black
Jack at a Forward Operating Base in
Afghanistan. CF DND
40
Flying Art Form
the Second World War has always appealed to
modellers due, in part, to the vibrant colours and
subject matter. Although nose art may have fallen
out of vogue during the post-Second World War era,
it was not extinct and this flying art form once again
achieved limited popularity on the CH-147D Chinook
helicopters being flown by the Canadian aviation
wing out of Kandahar Airfield in Afghanistan.
The CH-147 Chinook medium-lift helicopter has
an interesting history with the Canadian military. The
Canadian Forces (CF) first operated eight CH-147C
Chinook helicopters from 1974 until 1992 (147001 was
lost on its delivery flight to Canada on October 18,
1974 and was replaced with another aircraft). These
aircraft were flown by two squadrons, 450 based out
of Uplands (Ottawa), Ontario and 447 Squadron in
Namao (Edmonton), Alberta. Budgetary restraints and
the increased costs of keeping the fleet operational
resulted in the seven Chinooks (147002 was lost due
to a taxiing accident at Rankin Inlet on August 17,
1982) being struck off strength on January 7, 1992 and
returned to the United States. The helicopters were
converted to CH-47D models in 1994 and sold to the
Royal Netherlands Air Force where they were operated
by 298 Squadron.
In 2005, the then-Chief of the Defence Staff
(CDS), General Rick Hillier, made Chinooks (or
similar medium-lift helicopters) his top priority for
the Kandahar deployment. The Canadian Prime
Minister, Stephen Harper, responded in July 2006
with an Advance Contract Award Notice (ACAN)
for 16 newly-built CH-47F model Chinooks. This
contract consisted of a $1.2 billion capital acquisition
and a $2.2 billion 20-year support and maintenance
element. In the original proposal, 16 helicopters
were to be procured. However, due to inflation
and other factors, this number was reduced to 15.
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017
 Aviation

Delivery of the first CH-147F Chinook was on July Canadian tail No. US D model US C model US B model US A model
5, 2013 with the final aircraft being received ahead
of schedule on June 30, 2014. To fly these new
Chinooks, 450 Squadron, based in CFB Petawawa, 147201 68-16017
was reactivated on May 2, 2012.
Meanwhile, the Department of National Defence 147202 84-24181 67-18550
(DND) began looking for an aircraft which it could 147203 87-00081 67-18477
immediately employ on operations in Afghanistan
147204 84-24154 64-13140
and settled on the CH-47D model. Under pressure
from the terms of the 2008 Manley Report which 147205 86-01650 66-00103
recommended obtaining new medium-lift helicopters 147206 86-01651 65-08015
and unmanned aerial vehicles by February 2009,
DND arranged to buy six CH-47Ds that were already 147207 87-00096 63-07906
in Afghanistan from the US Army, in this case, aircraft
that had served with the 101st Airborne Division. squadron insignia could compromise operational ABOVE: Five CH-147D Chinooks
and a lone CH-146 Griffon occupy
Redesignated by the CF as CH-147D, the helicopters security. There is also no longer a requirement for the Canadian Air Wing flight line in
were already located in Afghanistan (five in Bagram stylised maple leaves as the helicopters in theatre February 2009, looking rather drab with
and 1 in Kandahar), and so started the transfer which are fully marked, albeit in subdued black with the their new black markings. CF DND

began on December 24, 2008 and completed on the
30th. On January 8, 2009, a crew from 408 Tactical
Helicopter Squadron flew CH-147D Chinook 147201
on its debut flight as a Canadian aircraft from their
base at Kandahar Airfield.
With the arrival of the CH-147D Chinook, Joint
Task Force Afghanistan gained greater access
to one of the worlds most powerful workhorse
helicopters for moving troops and supplies in the
theatre and with its ability to carry large quantities
of cargo and soldiers, was a major asset to Canada
and to her allies in Afghanistan. With the addition
of helicopter airlift, there was a corresponding
reduction in the need for troops to travel by road,
thereby lowering the risk of ambushes, land mines
and improvised explosive devices.
When studying current operational Canadian
aircraft nose art it quickly becomes apparent that
the traditional Second World War themes for nose
art, have fallen out of vogue. Images of leggy,
scantily-clad, well-endowed, attractive ladies
adorning combat aircraft are no longer considered
acceptable by the public or the military and
Canadian flag on the tail as well as the Canadian
Government logo which consists of the word
Canada with the flag flying off of the D on the
sides of the main fuselage. What was left was, for
the most part, nose art that consisted of word play
and double entendres.
In July 2010, Canadian Expeditionary Force
Command (CEFCOM) Headquarters sent a two-
person team under Operation Keepsake (I was on
this team) into the theatre in order to catalogue
historical mementos for repatriation back to
Canada and to photograph the living conditions at BELOW: New CH-147F Chinooks sit
on the ramp at 450 Squadron in CFB
Kandahar Airfield. One of the photographic tasks Petawawa, Ontario during the final arrival
was to record the nose art on the six Canadian ceremony on July 3, 2014. CF DND
CH-147D Chinooks.
The artwork was applied to the Canadian Chinooks
in the same place, just forward of the crew access
door on the starboard fuselage of the aircraft and
each will now be discussed further according to the
Canadian tail number.

41
 Aviation

artwork was inspired by a poster used to advertise

a Quebec City strip club and was painted during
Operation Athena Roto 10 (October 2010 July
2011). It is generally considered to be the best of
the Chinook nose art.

CH-147D 147201
It is ironic that the first Chinook in the series carries
the last painted and the most traditional yet
controversial of all the artwork. Correspondence
notes with the Air Wing in Kandahar record that this
aircraft was to be called Lady Mary-Ann. Apparently
no-one informed the artist Master Corporal (MCpl)
Robert Bannen what was considered appropriate
because the provocative Miss BHaven features
the upper half of a seductive, flaming red-haired,
well-proportioned woman in a low-cut red dress
that reveals some amount of cleavage. This girlie
CH-147D 147202
Chinook 147202 The Magic Bus featured nose
artwork that consisted of a cartoon version of a yellow
school bus with overhead spinning rotors which appear
to symbolize the CH-147D helicopter. The term bus
may also have referred to the helicopters role of
ferrying personnel and cargo throughout the Canadian
area of operations which was located in Panjwai
Province in southern Afghanistan.
Unfortunately, on August 5, 2010, The Magic
Bus, while being piloted by Captain Will Fielding,
CD MMV, was brought down near Masum Ghar and
destroyed as a result of enemy ground fire. Capt
Fielding safely landed the burning aircraft saving
everyone on board, and for his actions was awarded
the Medal of Military Valour by His Excellency the
Right Honourable David Johnston, Governor General
and Commander-in-Chief of Canada, at Rideau Hall on

TOP: 201 Miss. Behavin on the

Canadian Air Wing ramp in the
sprawling NATO Kandahar Air Field,
April 2011. W.E. Storey Collection

INSET: Painted on Chinook 201, Miss.

Behavin was the most traditional and
alluring of all of the helicopter artwork.
W.E. Storey Collection

RIGHT: Photographed on its last flight

on August 5, 2010, 202 The Magic Bus
is captured on final approach before
landing at a Forward Operating Base.
CF DND

BELOW: MCpl Tim Patry proudly

stands beside his 202 The Magic Bus
artwork. Tim Patry

BELOW: Repainted in 2009, 203 Red Devil, an all-red

nude woman with wings, was another piece of artwork
by MCpl Patry. Tim Patry

ABOVE LEFT: No boarding passes required on this flight as heavily laden and well-armed Canadians gingerly step around a
ramp-mounted 7.62mm C6 machine Gun when loading onto 204 Black Jack. In this case they pass under a red devil that was
painted on the rear engine housing by this helicopters previous U.S. operators. Tim Patry ABOVE RIGHT: MCpl Gord Bennett
strikes a pose beside his macabre Black Jack artwork. Gord Bennett
January 26, 2012. This aircraft was replaced by another,
147207, although the nose art was not replicated on
the replacement helicopter.
CH-147D 147203
MCpl Patry reported that, originally, 203 had the
Red Devil, an all-red nude woman with wings
painted onto it and in a bout of miscommunication
well call it, it was painted over. He remarked that
the original artwork was about half the size of the
existing now and a lot less detailed. During my first
tour I had taken some pictures and had those for
reference when I re-drew and scaled up the picture
for the re-application. I did that two days before I left
in May of 2009 while it was in a 200hr inspection
cycle. 95% of the people did not like that it had
been taken off.
CH-147D 147204
Black Jack was a very dark and ominous nose art in
which a man is silhouetted by a full moon. He is partially
hidden by a black cape and top hat, revealing only his
menacing eyes. In his right hand is a large meat hook
which is thrust upwards and is dripping with blood.
The words Black Jack are accented with small drops
of blood. Before corresponding with the artists, it was
recorded that the hook was significant in that Chinooks
are used to carry slung loads under the fuselage by
means of a hook. The macabre and dark nature of this
work may be a reflection of the night-time operations
carried out by the helicopters and their crews and the
nature of military operations that result in the spilling of
blood when killing or incapacitating the enemy.
MCpl Gord Bennett clarified matters and
wrote that Black Jack features Jack the Ripper
brandishing a bloody meat hook in a full moon, the
hook representative of the Chinooks we operated.
Many of our operations were cloaked in darkness
while dispensing our infanteers at night- to do what
they do best. I wanted our Chinooks to share some
of the darker side of this glory, as well as showing
the boarding infanteers that were in it with them
all the way. The original title was going to be Jack
the Gripper since the original call sign given to the
Chinooks was Gripper. Bennett also mentioned
that part way through the painting the name was
www.militarymodelling.com
Aviation
changed to Blow Torch and then Jack the Blow
Torch which did not sound right so he improvised at
the last minute.
This aircraft had an impressive combat history,
built as CH-47A in 1964, it served a full tour in
Vietnam with B Company, 228th Aviation Support
Helicopter Battalion, then operated with the Thai
Air Force. It returned to the United States in 1983
and was converted to CH-47D. This aircraft had
accumulated 3,598 hours as a CH-47A, then logged
an additional 6,540 hours as a CH-47D, before being
purchased by Canada.
CH-147D 147205
Perhaps the most Canadian of all the Chinook
nose art was 2 for Hooking! a stylized skeleton
consisting of an upper torso and skull wearing a
red hockey helmet with a small white maple leaf.
The skeleton was holding an upturned hockey stick
representing a scythe like that used by the Grim
Reaper; it also symbolizes a hooking motion which,
Canadians who are raised on hockey as a national
sport know also represents a two minute penalty
that is incurred for hooking an opposing player with ABOVE: Chinook 147205 2 For
the stick. 2 For Hooking! also related to one of Hooking! Steve Forth
the many roles for which CH-147D Chinook was BELOW: Looking a little worse for
employed, that of hauling one or two slung loads wear from having crashed onto a dry
simultaneously hooked underneath the helicopter. river bed, 205 2 For Hooking! was
quickly recovered and eventually
MCpl Bennett was also the artist and reported that transported back to Canada where the
this was his first work. When we took possession of unique artwork will be displayed in the
Canadian War Museums new post-
this Chinook from the Americans it already had an ugly WWII gallery. Steve Forth
skeleton wearing a Mexican sombrero and was named
Social Distortion. It was unanimous amongst the
maintenance crew that it HAD to go, so they
looked to me to paint over it.
43
 Aviation
ABOVE: Author Warrant Officer Ed Storey, CD Canadian Military Engineers, is photographed with
206 JackD Up Old No. 7 during a July 2010 Canadian Expeditionary Force Command Headquarters,
Operation Keepsake artefacts collection visit to the Southwest Asia Theatre. W.E. Storey
Bennett Canadianized the existing work as he
figured that he could not get in trouble for painting
nose art that was already there. He removed the
sombrero replacing it with a Canadian Olympic style
hockey helmet and the title. Since the Chinooks were
referred to as hookers, and almost always went
everywhere in pairs, or twos and since hockey has a
penalty for hooking, the title fell into place.
Unfortunately, 2 for Hooking! crashed on May 16,
2011 while carrying Canadian soldiers and a journalist
in a remote part of southern Afghanistan. Luckily, no-
one was killed but four were hurt, one seriously, and
everyone was evacuated to the base at Sperwan Ghar.
The aircraft was recovered and flown back to Kandahar
by the United States Marine Corps where the fuselage
was then shipped back to CFB Petawawa to be used
as a 450 Squadron training aid.
CH-147D 147206
JackD Up Old No. 7 sported this nose artwork
when it was still in United States Army livery and it pays
homage to Jack Daniels Tennessee Whiskey which is
distilled in Lynchburg. Jacked Up can also have other
meanings such as a military slang term for when a
person gets in trouble and is reprimanded by a superior;
or it can also refer to the capability of the Chinook to use
its hoist to sling cargo from underneath the helicopter.
ABOVE: JackD Up is the only helicopter with internal artwork. Located just aft above the gunners
position on the transmission panel and maintaining the Jack theme, can be found this Yukon Jack
sign for a Canadian whiskey distilled in Valleyfield, Quebec. In keeping with the Canadian practice of
employing the metric system, the 101st Airborne personnel who painted Yukon Jack even used ml
vice oz on the label. W.E. Storey BELOW: Another Gord Bennett creation, 207 Goin in Hot! employs
some classic northern wildlife with just a touch of Canadian humour. Gord Bennett
44
Unique among the four Chinooks with nose
art is that JackD Up is the only helicopter with
internal artwork. Located aft, just above the
gunners position on the transmission panel can
be found some additional inspirational artwork
that maintains the Jack theme. Yukon Jack
is a Canadian whiskey distilled in Valleyfield,
Quebec and advertised as The Black Sheep of
Canadian Liquors. This domestic inspired artwork
counterbalances the distinctly American theme
of JackD Up, while keeping to similar alcoholic
drink labels.
Major Cordon Colwell provided additional
background information on JackD Up. He
reported that the 101st Airborne personnel painted
the Yukon Jack artwork on the transmission panel
in order to compliment the Jack Daniels and add
a Canadian flavour making sure that they used ml
vice oz on the label.
Due to a shortage of stencil material in theatre,
there was not enough to paint all of the required
Canadian markings on the aircraft so a phone
call back to the 1 Canadian Air Division acting
A4 in Canada on Christmas Day2008 secured
permission to leave out the Canadian Forces
Forces Canadiennes on either side of the roundel.
CH-147D 147207
This was a leased replacement aircraft for 147202
The Magic Bus and may have, christened Goin
in Hot!. This Chinook was again painted by Gord
Bennett and consisted of a cartoon style hockey
stick wielding light-blue Moose and snarling bayonet
waving green bear sitting together on an aerial
bomb with a red maple leaf painted on the nose.
The aggressive posture of the two characters
accents the going in hot theme, a military slang
term which means that all ordnance is armed
and ready and that you are prepared to do battle.
The Moose is also holding the hockey stick in the
same scythe like manner as 2 for Hooking! and
the bear is wearing a Canadian Forces rifle green
beret. This uniquely Canadian artwork reflected the
aggressive flying techniques employed in the hostile
environment of southern Afghanistan and that these
C6 7.62mm machine gun armed helicopters were
fully prepared to engage the enemy.
It did retain its original American artwork on the
front and rear rotor housings during its time in
Canadian use.
The five remaining helicopters; 147201, 147203,
147204, and 147206 are currently stored at Davis-
Monthan, AFB in Tucson, Arizona, complete with
their respective nose art, awaiting sale or disposal.
Canadian helicopter nose art in Afghanistan
continued the trend set during the Second World
War and, although the artwork was for the most
part less risqu than the past, it still inspired morale,
boosted esprit du corps and instilled pride in a job
well done.
The story behind the Chinook nose artwork
would not be nearly as complete and accurate
as it is without the generous assistance of the
following members of the Royal Canadian Air Force
who not only employed their talents when painting
the artwork but also took the time to record their
efforts, namely Robert Bannen, Gordon Bennett,
Gordon Colwell, Steve Forth and Tim Patry.
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017
 Aviation

ABOVE: A warm sunny July 2010 day in

beautiful KAF with 206 JackD Up Old
No. 7 sitting on the Canadian Air Wing
ramp along with 205 2 For Hooking!
and 204 Black Jack. W.E. Storey

Sources
https://athabaskang07.wordpress.com/2015/02/27/the-reincarnation-of-nose-art-by-canadian-forces/
http://scholars.wlu.ca/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1787&context=cmh
http://www.canadianmilitaryhistory.ca/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/7-Storey-Chinook-nose-art.pdf
http://www.ctvnews.ca/4-canadian-soldiers-injured-in-afghan-chopper-crash-1.644426
http://www.ctvnews.ca/manley-says-afghanistan-report-isn-t-all-bad-news-1.272306
https://www.dvidshub.net/news/70575/canadian-forces-us-marines-lift-damaged-chinook-safety
http://www.rwrwalker.ca/CF_CH147.html
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/world/canadian-forces-confirms-helicopter-was-brought-down-by-small-arms-fire/article1214299/

LEFT: The original U.S.

Army (3rd Infantry Division)
artwork painted on the front
transmission housing of 207
Goin in Hot! Gord Bennett

www.militarymodelling.com 45
 AFV
Fordin the Water!
Ford Truck, Amphibian, GPA, 1/4 ton, 4x4 by Mark Bannerman
ABOVE: GPA model on Utah Beach,
D-Day + 6. Courtesy of Photoshop
BELOW: The model builds up very
easily with little in the way of flash or
seams. I removed the step plate with a
hobby knife inside the circular mount
in the hull.
46
Amphibious jeep
The GPA amphibious jeep was developed by the
Ford Motor Company from components of the Ford
GPW 1/4 ton 4x4 jeep. Navy architects designed
and developed the hull and were also responsible
for the development of the 2 DUKW amphibious
truck. The GPA (G=Government, P=80 wheelbase,
A=Amphibious) first came off the production
line in 1942 and while not widely used with the
US military, large numbers of the GPAs were
supplied to the Soviet Union under the Lend-Lease
agreement. The Ford GPAs engine, transmission,
transfer case and axles were the same as the Ford
jeep, but the GPA was longer in length. The intent
and purpose of the GPA (and the DUKW) was in
response for the need to ferry soldiers from ship
to shore as well as a means of crossing rivers
quickly where the enemy had destroyed bridges
and water crossing. The total production of the Ford
GPA reached 12,778 by 1943. It proved to be slow,
sluggish and not effective in choppy waters and as
a result, the GPA saw little service in the US Army.
However, it did serve an important role in large
numbers during the Sicily Landing of September
1943. Some GPAs were used in action in North
Africa, in Normandy and the South Pacific and
were also used by the British and Canadians troop.
However, the majority of the GPAs produced was
sent to the Soviet Union under the Lend-Lease
Scheme and saw great success with the Red Army.
The model
Tamiya has re-released its original 1975 GPA kit
and spruced it up with some new detail and added
figures. I have the original model (35043) and opted
to try my hand at building it using etch from Eduard
(35141). The Tamiya offering comes in a tray and
lid-style box. Inside the original Tamiya offering are
three sprues with +75 parts made in a dark plastic.
The moulding is very typical of early 70s Tamiya
models which are admittedly better than several
plastic producers today. There was a little flash,
some clean-up of mould seams, a few pin holes
to fill and some widening of holes and inserts.
The actual assembly of the basic model is simple
and Tamiyas instructions are very clear on where
parts should fit. The model could be built out of
the box in an evening. There were no complicated
parts or subassemblies and really does represent
one of the simplest Tamiya models I have ever
assembled. However, it is fair to say that some of
the detail could use a little sharpening. For this, I
used the Eduard photoetch set which is quite good
for some of those small dull details that appear
a little chunky in plastic such as the side
mesh, driver instrument panel and exhaust
details. The Eduard set comes as one small
fret and I used all of the etch provided.
The etch was quite easy to work with and all
parts were affixed to the model using super-glue.
Although two figures are included in the Tamiya
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017

ABOVE: The original boxart for Tamiya model number 35043
and the subject of this article.
The Tamiya re-release 35336 of the original 35043 with some
added details - new figures, an engine and some etch.
ABOVE: A difficult-to-find Tamiya re-release of the
35336 but with Russian figures
and Russian decals.
www.militarymodelling.com
AFV
ABOVE: GPA on a beach in Southern
England. Courtesy of Photoshop
offering, the moulding does not provide much in ABOVE: The etch was added with
superglue. The windshield and wheels
the way of definition and so I discarded the figures were only temporarily affixed at this
altogether. Also included in the Tamiya model are a point as these would be far easier to
paint separately.
few accessories such as tool box, a folded tarp, two
smaller rolled tarps, a leather pouch, a jerry and a
few weapons some which I would use. I added
windshield flaps as these were relatively common
on US Army GPAs and fashioned these out of tissue
paper by cutting the shape with scissors, affixing to
the windshield frame with a drop of white glue then
lightly brushing the tissue with a mix of water and
white glue. Other details include adding putty in a
few sink holes on the top hull (where the harpoon BELOW: A cutaway of a GPA Ford.
is supposed to fit)
and also covering
a few locator
holes that I would
not be using.
47
 AFV

ABOVE: The Red Army used large numbers of GPA Fords for supply and
troop carrier purposes.

BELOW: The windshield was done separately with the glass part mask out
with Tamiya tape.

Painting and Finishing

The variety of colours and schemes on the GPA
is limited to just one type of finish - a solid overall
finish of US Olive Drab as used by the US Army in
Europe, North Africa, Sicily and in the Pacific. Even
the Lend lease GPAs used by the Soviet Union were
delivered in the US Olive Drab finish and, according
to references, were not repainted. Therefore, the
ABOVE: The model was primed with Tamiya Grey Primer in two coats. finish is standard. As for the markings, my model
did provide a decal sheet - two U.S. Army and one
BELOW: Undergoing trials at Fort Wayne.
U.S. Marine vehicle.
After cleaning up the model with soap and water
and allowing the model to dry, I primed it with
Tamiya Grey Primer. The windshield is a one-piece
clear plastic part so the frame was primed by
masking off the window parts with Tamiya masking
tape. Two coats of primer were applied to the entire
model. For the base coat, I mixed Tamiya dark Green
XF-81 with Tamiya Olive Drab XF-62 in a 30-70 mix.
Although I have read that Tamiya Olive Drab XF-62 is
the closest match on the market to US Olive Drab, I
wanted to lighten it up a bit because the weathering
process would end up darkening the base colour. By
adding 30% Tamiya Dark Green XF-81, this would
help compensate for the subsequent darkening
effect of the washes.
For the weathering I wanted to make an attempt
at using Humbrol enamels exclusively. I have been
reading back issues of Military Modelling from 25-
30 years ago and looking at the models then, the
results were stunning. As well, enamel paints dry
absolutely matt so I wanted to create the effect of
a satin upper vehicle with a matt finish on the lower
half of the hull. I have very little success with post-

48 Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017


painting matting and dulling agents so I thought
I would try to create the effect as I progressed
through the painting process. The first step in the
weathering was putting down two separate lights
coats of a dust and dirt layer on the lower part of
the model. The first application was applied through
an airbrush using a mix of Humbrol 64 Light Grey
mixed with Testors thinners in a 2:1 ratio. Although
most modellers do not use (or avoid using) Humbrol
paints for airbrushing much these days, I did find
these to be remarkably effective. If the enamels are
mixed and stirred very well, it will perform as well
as any acrylic paint through an airbrush. The trick
is to stir very thoroughly (for about a minute). My
mixing instrument is a bent paperclip attached to
the end of my Dremel tool and then switched to a
very slow rotation right in the small paint canister.
The airbrushing of the enamels went on superbly,
leaving a very thin coat of light grey to the lower
part of the hull. I repeated the same step using
Humbrol Matt Dark Earth 29 and bringing this light
layer of coverage down to the lower third of the
hull. I allowed the paint to dry for about three hours
then applied two filters the first with Humbrol
Khaki Drill 72 mixed with 90% thinners and the
second filter was applied about 30 minutes later
using Humbrol Light Grey 64. While this was
drying, I used Humbrol Matt Black 33 to touch up
details such as steering wheel, gears, pedal, and
seats. I affixed Archer Fine Transfers Ford GPA
Jeep instruments and placards (AR35308) which
were perfect for the Eduard etch instrument panel.
With Archer Fine transfers, I make no attempt to
rub down such small transfers. Instead, I peel the
transfers off from the back of the carrier sheet
using a sharp hobby knife and lay it down then
apply pressure with my finger to affix into place.
After allowing the paint to dry for several days, the
result of the weathering was a satin finished upper
surface and a matt lower structure from grime
AFV
ABOVE: A Ford GPA alongside a DUKW
being used by British troops.
LEFT: The new mix applied in two coats.
For the base coat, I initially mixed
Tamiya Dark Green XF-81 with Tamiya
Olive Drab XF-62 in a 30-70 mix. This
was applied in one application. It
ended up being far too dark.
The more correct colour combination
for US Olive Drab is combining 70%
Tamiya Olive Drab XF-62 with 30%
Tamiya Dark Yellow XF-60.
BELOW LEFT: The instrument panel
was detailed first by using the
Eduard etch then affixing Archer Fine
Transfer instruments and placards set
(AR35308).
BELOW RIGHT: Windshield flaps were
fashioned from tissue paper.
 AFV
ABOVE: A GPA undergoing tests at Fort Carson. This is one of a few photos I have seen of the hitch being used.
ABOVE: The model was marked using
the decals from the Tamiya set and
the windshield protective flaps were
painted in Humbrol 93. Despite the
Tamiya decals being 40 years old, they
worked like a charm!
RIGHT: Close up of the windshield
side protective cover which had been
painted in Humbrol Dark Yellow 93
then lightly washed with Humbrol 64
Light Grey.
50
and dirt that the vehicle would have accumulated
while traversing rivers or waterways. The contrast
between the two finishes provides a neat effect (a
tip picked up from Master Modeller Tony Greenland
in a back issue of Military Modelling). I then started
in with some light drybrushing using Xtra Colour
Oily Steel (X503) which produces a very convincing
bare metal finish. The drybrushing has to be
extremely subtle and barely noticeable. The next
step was a series of highly diluted washes using a
mix of Testors thinners and Humbrol Matt Black 33
mixed 50/50 with Humbrol Matt Olive Drab 155. The
wash should be 20% paint to 80% thinners. The
application should not be too heavy otherwise the
thinners will eat through the base coat. I allowed
this to dry in a shoebox for 24 hours.
The rubber on the tyres were painted with Vallejo
Grey-Black in two coats then given a wash of lamp
black oil paints. Once dry, the tyres were airbrushed
using Humbrol Matt Khaki 26. The flaps on the side
of the windshield were painted in Humbrol Dark
Yellow 93 then lightly washed with Humbrol 64
Light Grey. The lights on the side and rear of the
GPA were painted in Humbrol Red 19 mixed with
a small amount of Humbrol Black to dull down the
brightness of the red. For the front lights, I used
Silver marker from Tamiya and then added 5 minute
epoxy for the bulbs. The application of such a small
amount of paint for the lights (silver in front and red
in the rear) was done with a toothpick. The seats
were painted in Humbrol Matt Black with a drop of
Humbrol Khaki Drill 72 to lighten up the colour a bit.
A few things I opted to do or not do differently
on this model. I did not mask off the portion of the
windshield where the wipers would typically clean
the glass clean. Although in the modelling realm, this
has been standard practice, there has been quite a bit
of discussion on whether this effect holds true. It is a
good point and after looking at hundreds of wartime
photos of vehicle windshields, I admit to seeing very
few vehicles with the half circle clean windshield.
Instead, I lightly sprayed the windshield with Humbrol
Matt Khaki 26 then applied a few washes with Testors
thinners neat to create a slightly dirt appearance to
the entire windshield. Windshields with a bit of dust
appear to be the most frequent effect I have seen in
photographs. Also, I did not dust up the tyres as much
as I usually would. Typically, I would place pigments on
my fingers and rub the treads in either black (from a
vehicle running on pavement or earth-coloured pastels
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017
 AFV

LEFT: A superb photograph of the GPA.

The total production of the Ford GPA
reached 12,778 by 1943.

BELOW: A fully restored GPA Ford.

for vehicles traveling in a field). The continued friction of

the treads on pavement or solid ground would not be
conducive to earth or dirt adhering to the treads. Even
my own car treads which are subjected daily to gravel,
dirt, mud, and puddles (I live in the countryside) remain
generally clean and void of any of the elements.

Conclusion
This is a particular enjoyable model because it is
absolutely hassle-free. If a modeller is not used to
etch, this is the perfect model to try your hand with
etch because there is not a lot of parts and the etch
pieces themselves are not miniscule and quite easy
to manipulate - and do not require much bending
and re-working. With the recent release by Tamiya
of the same model but with Russian figures (and
presumably Russian markings) added in, this could
make for an interesting variant with a M1910 7.62
Maxim placed on the front or a DP-28 mounted on
an antiaircraft tripod. A really enjoyable project and
loads of options for theatres and dioramas.

ABOVE: The figure is a made up of

DML, Warriors and a Hornet head - the
clothing was done in Humbrols and
the head in oils.

BELOW: GPA Ford Amphibious

navigating a river in Holland, winter
1945. Courtesy of Photoshop

ABOVE: The lights on the side and rear of the GPA were painted in Humbrol Red 19 mixed with a small amount of Humbrol
Black to dull down the brightness of the red. The rubber on the tires were painted with Vallejo Grey-Black in two coats then
given a wash of lamp black oil paints and a light airbrushing of Humbrol Matt Khaki 26.
Techniques
1
Lets design a drum!
Marcel Von Hobe steers us through the
wonderful world of 3D printing.
New tool
So 3D printing - everything is possible! Is it really
and what does it cost? I am going to attempt to give
this subject some clarity. But we start off with an oil
drum (Image 1).
For some time now, I have been working with this
new tool, namely 3D printing. A couple of years
ago my employer asked me to take a course in 3D
graphic design. In my work I mainly use it to create 3D
animations for video. The software program I use for
this is called Cinema 4D and its basically a 3D program
3 before spending lots of money on a mould, you can
52
for animations but I soon saw the modelling potential.
Many tests and many years later I am at a point where
I know what is possible and how I can offer a 3D
design to a printing company. At the moment, I use a
company called Shapeways but there are others that
do the same (Image 2).
What is 3D Printing?
Actually, we have to call it 3D rapid prototyping. It
has been around for many years and its the result
of a request from the industry to transform a design
into a prototype, quickly and cheaply. For instance,
see, feel and test plastic parts. Rapid prototyping is
very accurate (Image 3).
The printing process: After a model (or part)
has been designed in a 3D software program, the
computer slices the 3D design. Basically, this breaks
the design up into many thin layers. The printer more
or less works like an inkjet that prints a letter onto a
piece of paper (one slice). A 3D printer can then print
another letter (layer) onto the first one (second slice).
Then it prints a third, a fourth and so on. This way you
build a 3D design from the bottom up.
There are five different printing methods which
can be categorized into 3 kinds: resin, powder and
wire printers.
Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM)
Theyre also known as wire printers, these are the
printers youre mostly likely to have heard about,
especially in the media when talking about 3D
printing. For us modellers these are not directly
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017
 Techniques

*A lamppost has an overhanging

part. This means that printing a
lamppost requires support material
(red) to print because otherwise
at some point the material would
be printed in mid-air. I will explain
more about this later on, with our
oil drum as an example.

usable printers. Why? because they give a rough

surface. It has to be said though that they are getting 5
better and ever more affordable (Image 4 & 5).
These printers work by feeding a (plastic) wire
from a drum into the printer head. There, the wire
is molten and pushed out onto a plate. The plate
moves down a bit and a second layer is placed.
These different layers are quite thick and a
stacking relief or line pattern will be visible. This
process works without a support material and
therefore can only print onto itself. For instance,
this method cannot print an overhanging part
like a lamppost* or walls beyond 45. However,
overhanging parts can be printed but will need a
support that can only be printed with the same
material as the model. This support has to be cut
from the model when finished (Image 6 & 7).

www.militarymodelling.com 53
Techniques
8

Selective Laser Sinthering (SLS)

or Sandstone/Powder printers
These are two different printers but which use the
same basic method. SLS is a method by which
plastic or metal powder is laid upon a plate. The
powder is heated locally by a laser which melts the
powder into the first slice. A new layer of powder is
laid down and the laser prints the second slice. The
cycle is repeated until the height of the model is
achieved. You then have a big block of powder with
the 3D model inside. The powder is sucked away
and can be reused. When printing hollow models
(like a ball), this method requires escape holes to
remove the excess powder from the inside.
There are three printing steps for one layer 1,
Add new powder layer; 2, Print outline; 3, Fill outline.
The powder machine works almost the same
way as these machines. Only the laser is replaced
by a head with a binding fluid and the powder is a
kind of gypsum. In this method, the model is very
9 fragile after printing. It needs to be painted with a
hardening fluid (looks like superglue) that sets the
gypsum (Image 8, 9 & 10).
Because parts are fragile, it is not possible to
print thin or small parts (minimal 2mm). Another
disadvantage is that the result is still not as smooth
as we as modellers would want. This will require
sanding which means small details cannot be
included into the design. On the plus side, no
printing supports are needed and the main bonus
is that, by adding colour ink to the binding fluid,
models can be printed in full colour. Just like the
little house I made in 100th scale (Image 11). An
extra coating can be chosen to protect the colour
from fading by water or light. This process gives you
very nice coloured display models like 3D scanned
people, animation figures or vehicles.

10
 Techniques

11

Stereolithography (SLA) and Multi

Jet Modelling (MJM) 12
These are resin printers. SLA is a method that
has been around since 1986. It starts with a
polymer (resin) fluid and a plate at the top of a
bathtub. The material is cured by hitting it with
a lamp on certain areas. The model sinks into
the bath and is hit by the light to create a second
layer. Nowadays, the lamps have been replaced
by more accurate lasers (Image 12).
MJM printers also work with resin, but not in a
bath. Resin is printed by a head with several thin
needles. Models are created with layers of 16-40
m in every shape you can imagine. This needs a
support-material which is printed simultaneously
with the resin. After a wax/resin layer is printed,
the resin is cured with a UV-light (Image 13).
This is the one you want although, you
probably could not afford the machine. These
printers are out of reach for most modellers.
Shapeways, however, has these printers and the
material to choose there is Frosted Ultra detail
(FUD) or Frosted eXtreme Detail (FXD).

13

www.militarymodelling.com 55
Techniques

14

15

16

Lets see how this method would print our oil

drum. Simply put, the first layer will be a disc
(1), (see Image 14 & 15) with a hole in this case
because our drum will need an escape hole. The
next layers, after the model table has dropped a bit
(z-axis), are the same as the first layer until the disc
is thick enough. Now the printer only prints rings
(2). This way, the standing wall of the drum is being
created. However, to be able to print the lid later
on we need a support. Starting with the first ring
layer, a support material is printed within the ring
(3-red). When the time comes to print the lid the
printer simply lays down the resin onto the last layer
and the support material (4+5). The last layers are
simple discs until the drum is complete.

17

56 Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017


There is only one thing left to do, remove the
support material (6). This is done by heating the
model and melting the wax-like support material
which runs through the escape hole. The added
bonus of this hole is that a model is hollow and this
reduces the printing costs (more on that later on).
There are some drawbacks. I have to mention
that after printing, a residue may be left behind on
the model. This is from the fluid bath (SLA) or the
support material (MJM). Shapeways cleans the parts
in an ultrasonic cleaner but this is sometimes not
done thoroughly enough. Cleaning is very important
though, because glue and especially paint will hold
better on clean surfaces. You can use almost anything
from (baby) shampoo to more aggressive cleaning
agents, like alcohol or paint thinner.
Uncleaned parts can change colour, although
I have not seen this for some time, it will not
influence the material quality and strength. FUD and
FXD are quite strong materials but are brittle and
break easily. I always try to design up to the minimal
design specifications which will result in thinner
walls (less volume) but also more fragile parts. If
you want more strength you simply have to design
thicker parts or create a support structure.
Overhanging parts (however small) are being
printed with support as you can see in this example
(Image 16). The support material may leave a
rougher surface on the areas it touches. Try to avoid
overhangs by making two parts or by turning the part.
What to make
Basically, you can make anything. Yes, really,
anything; there are no limitations. Apart from the
main limitation, the thickness of your wallet!
In any case you will need a 3D design software
program. There are many; some are easy,
some difficult while some are cheap and some
expensive. The industry will use CAD-based
programs like Solid Works or Rhinoceros. I use
the modelling part of animation program called
Cinema 4D, not only because I took a course
but also because I find the modelling fast and
accurate. The best way to introduce you to 3D
designing is to find a program like Sketch-up; it
is free.
I can now write many, many pages on how
these programs work but the best way to learn is
to look at tutorial videos and to simply do it! Pick
a subject, like our oil drum, and GO!
I do want to share with you, some tips on
how to save money. Until now, I have used
Shapeways. This company delivers good quality
at a relatively low price. Printing can be done
with other companies and can be done in many
surface qualities (read layer thicknesses). It all
depends on the price that you are willing to
pay. I use Shapeways as a guide because I am
experienced with that company. However, the
following counts for all.
Prices are set by a couple of variables: volume
of design, volume of support material, the
space taken up in the machine, handling costs,
packaging and shipping. Unfortunately, I cannot
find out how much each variable will affect the
end price.
Design volume is measured when you upload it
(Image 17). They calculate how much material is
www.militarymodelling.com
Techniques
needed to print your model. Every material has a
price per cubic centimetres. The same applies to 18
the volume of support material.
Machine space is determined by how much room
your design needs inside the printing machine. Only
a certain surface area is available and they try to fill
that space every time they do a print run. You can
imagine that a voluminous design like a frame may
cost more than three oil drums, although they may
have the same volume.
Handling costs are mainly labour. They are a
set price per design (file). Handling labour for
instance includes checking a design, collecting
designs into one production run, taking them out
of the machine and cleaning them, not forgetting
packaging.
A few design tips that could save
you money
Design within the material/machine guidelines.
Every material has their own set of guidelines
(wall thickness, minimal wire thickness, escape
hole size). Shapeways has them on their website.
When your design does not comply with these
guidelines a design will be rejected. If your model
is too big your printing costs go up. Try to find the
design limits to save money.
Make sure your design is hollow and make
escape holes. When the oil drum does not have
an escape hole the machine will see it as one
massive piece and the price will be higher.
Try to place more than one model into one file.
A file is the computer file that you get from the
design software and you upload to the printing
company. This will save handling costs. For FUD
and FXD they are five euro per file. It will be
cheaper to order six drums in one file than six
times one drum. Place the drums as close together
as you can to save machine space but preferably
not over each other, this will require a support
material to print the second part over the first. In
the case of our drum the (red) (Image 18), support
material will leave a rougher surface on the top of
the drum.
When it is not possible to combine models into
one file, you can also save on shipping by saving up
your models and combining them into one order.
When you upload a file to Shapeways, an
automated system will check your model in terms
of printability and it will give you an estimated price.
This way, you can have your model checked during
your design phase and make adjustments to save
money. Please note that your design can still be
rejected after this first check. When you have placed
an order and paid, an engineer will check your model
before it goes to production. If the check fails, you
will be refunded and an offer made to adjust your
design. You can then try ordering again. When its not
possible to collect models into one file, you can wait
until you have more models to save some shipping.
What do I design? At the moment I have just
finished some bigger and some smaller things.
I have made interior sets for a M110, a ZSU-23-
4 Shilka and the 2S7 Pion. I also made a BAR
armour set for the Dutch Fennek and a conversion
to turn Dragons M2 and M3 halftracks into a
commonwealth M5. More on how the latter journey
went in the next part.
57
 MAFVA

Sharphooters Museum. 101173. The 97th (Kent Yeomanry) Field Brigade RA was formed from the East Kent Mounted Rifles and the West Kent Yeomanry after the Great War.

The MAFVA column

News and views from the Miniature Armoured Fighting Vehicle Association

Your Regiment
Needs You
MAVFA news by Chairman John Ham (chairman@mafva.net)

CAPTIONS: Photos author, excepting
archive photos copyright of the respective
museums and reproduced with their
kind permission. Sharpshooters captions
from Dan Taylor, curator, and Sherwood
captions from Steve Cox, Notts MAFVA.
Aldershot Military Museum. Challenger 1 rear view. This was an ex-prototype vehicle. In the
background, a Saladin Armoured Car and a Chieftain Mk11 of BAOR. Aldershot has a long history as a
garrison town and has several military museums that may be worth checking out.
M
AFVAs primary interest is modelling
military vehicles but a glance at the
Tankette index on www.mafva.net will
reveal that members have a wide range of military
interests which I try to portray in these columns.
Britain has a rich military history. Much of this
resides in small regimental museums and while
most struggle to find enough income to keep going,
the smaller establishments only survive because
of dedicated volunteers. Admission charges are
modest; others are free relying on donations.
www.armymuseums.org.uk has a list of these
museums and there are links on the MAFVA
website. Many have accessible archives and
uniforms and weapons exhibits as useful reference
sources. The changing needs of the British Army over
the centuries, expanding in wartime and contracting
in peacetime, are reflected in the regiments with
enlargements, mergers and changes of role.
Mounted regiments may have become infantry and
vice versa; infantry may have become artillerymen,
or engineers, or sometimes different regimental
battalions may have had contrasting roles.
Regular readers of the Column may recall an
article from three years ago which featured some
of these worthy museums that do not have the
same publicity and financial resources of their better
known bigger brethren, but are no less deserving
in our support. Many of these local museums are
very appreciative of support and some may accept
suitable models relating to the regiments history,
which can also be a very good club group activity.
Alternatively, the museum may be a good venue
for a club trip; some of the accompanying photos
are from such MAFVA visits. In this article I present
a number of other regimental museums that may
have connection with military vehicles. They may
or may not be near to you, but I hope that it may
give some encouragement to investigate your
local establishment. Being staffed by volunteers,

58 Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017

 MAFVA

ABOVE: Cumbria Military Museum. Ferret Scout Car in the

rain, showing rear view details useful to modellers. Behind
it is a traversing platform from a 25 Pdr gun. Inside there are
uniform and small arms displays relating many of the past
campaigns in which the border regiments served.

ABOVE: Sherwood Rangers. Allied troops from around the world gather
before the battle.There are no location details, but this Crusader of A Squadron
would be an exotic diorama subject.

LEFT: Aldershot Military Museum. Humber Pig Armoured Car featuring the
bull bars for breaching barricades often seen on Northern Ireland vehicles
during the Troubles. The museum has an assortment of AFV, soft skin
vehicles, some guns and other equipment.

ABOVE: Staffordshire Regiment. A view of the AFVs displayed at the museum.

A WW1 trench reconstruction is a feature, and on event days is manned by the
Birmingham Pals re-enactment group (photo Staffs Regt. Museum)

LEFT: Sherwood Rangers. Alvis Sabres plus support vehicles of B Squadron

(SRY), Queens Own Yeomanry 1980s.

RIGHT: At the time of writing the dates of many MAFVA

branch shows are now available on the MAFVA website.
London Branch which has a display project each year. This is
the Tank centenary exhibit at the On Track Show in 2016, and
the London show is in October.

it is sensible to check opening times to prevent

disappointment and a wasted journey, especially
if a group visit is planned. Featured here are:
Aldershot, Cumbria Military Museum, Sherwood
Rangers Yeomanry, Sharpshooters Yeomanry and
Staffordshire Regiments. Some of these museums
are in garrison towns and there may be other
museums of interest worth visiting nearby.

www.militarymodelling.com 59
Books
On Parade
Books, magazines and DVDs reviewed
The Editor welcomes publications for review.
All samples intended for review in On Parade
should be sent direct to the Contributing Editor
at the address listed under Editorial on the
contents page.
Book of the Month
Panzer III
Panzerkampfwagen III Ausf A
to N (SdKfz 141) by Dick Taylor
and Mike Hayton
Subtitled An insight into the
design, construction and
operation of the German
Armys Second World War
Medium Tank, the Panzer III
was the backbone of Hitlers
panzer divisions and was in
near continuous action from
1939 through to 1944. This
included service during the
invasion of Poland, the Battle
of France and more extensively
during the long North African
campaign and, from 1941, the
Eastern Front.
This latest gem from Haynes
is published in association
with the Tank Museum and
is written by former Tank
Commander, Lt. Col. Dick Taylor
RTR and Mike Hayton, so we
can expect the information and
imagery to be top notch just
as it was for the manual on the
Chieftain reviewed last year.
You will not be disappointed;
there are over 300 photographs
60
and illustrations jammed
into this quality book which
presents a balanced view
of this famous tank. There
are 13 chapters including,
The Panzer III Story; Service
tanks and variants; Anatomy
of a Panzer III (includes a large
annotated cutaway); Weaponry
and firepower; Panzer III
Walkaround; The Panzer III in
action, Restoring the Panzer III
and comprehensive appendices
which detail dimensions,
capacities, details and data. The
weapons section is particularly
detailed with sections on the
3.7cm KwK 36 and 5cm KwK
38 main armament options and
the 7.92mm MG34 machine
gun. Specification panels in
the variants section of the
manual are very extensive and
the in action chapter features
a number of unpublished
photographs.
A number of Panzer IIIs fell
into British hands during the
Second World War and one
such example, a Panzer III
Ausf L captured in North Africa
in 1942, now at home in The
Tank Museum, provides the
centrepiece to this manual.
This really is a superb
book about this famous tank
presented by quality authors, a
quality publisher all backed up by
the outstanding Tank Museum at
Bovington. Thanks very much to
Eleanor and Max at McCann PR
for our review copy.
MC
INFORMATION
ISBN: 978-0-85733-827-3
Price: 22.99 Pages: 172
Format: hardback A4
Publisher: Haynes Publishing
Website: www.haynes.com
Vehicle Art of World
War Two
By John Norris
Most of us are more than
familiar with the artwork that
adorned the noses of Second
World War aircraft which very
often included the image of a
scantily clad woman with an
appropriate name. This form
of adornment and affection for
your own machine was not just
the domain of aircraft but also
a plethora of military vehicles
including everything from heavy
tanks to light soft skins.
This book by military historian,
and soon to be contributor to
Military Modelling John Norris,
highlights the vast range and
methods of applying art work
to an equally large range of
military vehicles. The examples
of work presented are virtually
all from preserved machines
either in museums or shows
but this does not detract from
their providence and in many
cases they have been faithfully
recreated from an original vehicle.
The author also goes to great
lengths to explain how artwork
evolved during the course of the
war and with several different
armies. This seven chapter book
includes sections on the French,
British, German, Russian and
US Armies backed up by a large
40-page appendix. The latter
contains detailed colour images
of a variety of artwork; this
section in particular would be
useful to modellers from a detail
perspective alone.
Very nice, high quality, eye-
catching book and thanks again
to Charlie Simpson at Pen &
Sword for our review copy.
Owen Cooper
INFORMATION
ISBN: 978-1473834187
Price: 19.99 Pages: 180
Format: Hardback 249mm x 173mm
Publisher: Pen & Sword Military
Website: www.pen-and-sword.co.uk
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017
Vakhmistrovs Circus
Zveno Combined Aircraft by
Mikhail Maslov
The concept of the parasite
fighter, which basically
involved a mother ship (the
bomber) carrying a fighter
(the parasite) for self-defence
began during the First World
War and the idea was not
completely dispensed with
until the 1950s. One of the
many early exponents of this
concept was Russian aircraft
designer Vladimir Vakhmistrov
who is famous for his Zveno
experiments which saw five
different types of fighters
attached, singularly or in pairs
to a modified Tupolev TB-1 or
TB-3 bomber.
Subtitled The Projects,
Development, Testing and
Combat, author Mikhail Maslov
has left no stone unturned on
this subject and the fact that he
has spent 20 years researching
is most obvious. The book is
liberally illustrated with 180 black
and white photographs, 16 sets
of scale drawings and eight
colour profiles plus a number of
original technical drawings. With
regard to the photography, apart
from the odd exception, they are
all unpublished and the air to air
shots in particular are excellent.
This really is a great subject about
a concept that was fundamentally
sound but as fighters range
continually increased, the need
for parasite aircraft dwindled.
A very well-produced book
and an intriguing subject
which would be great to see
reproduced in model form hint,
hint! Thanks to Tom Bonnington
at Casemate for our review copy.
MC
INFORMATION
ISBN: 978-1-911096-75-7
Price: 21.95 Pages: 150
Format: Softback 248mm x 185mm
Publisher: Helion and Company
Website: www.helion.co.uk

British Destroyers
1939-45
Pre-war Classes
by Angus Konstam
(New Vanguard No.246)
The Royal Navy had no shortage of
destroyers when we entered the
Second World War in September
1939. However, the bulk of them
were rather old (some of them
were First World War vintage) or
had been produced in peacetime
and as such were lagging behind
the more modern German, Italian
and Japanese destroyers. Despite
the new Tribal-class destroyers
entering the Royal Navy from
1938, there was no other choice
but to press these older pre-war
vessels into service. They served
all over the world and with some
The First
(US) Infantry Division
By Stphane Lavit and
Philippe Charbonner
Sub-titled Allied Units of World
War and North Africa, Sicily,
Normandy, The Bulge and
Germany this lovely book about
the Big Red One takes a fresh
look at this famous Infantry
Division. Established in 1917 the
1st Infantry Division first saw
action in the trenches during the
latter stages of the First World
War. During the Second World
War the 1st took part in the
invasion of Sicily, contributed
greatly to D-Day, fought their
way out of the Ardennes during
the battle of the Bulge and then
www.militarymodelling.com
success especially against the
U-boat threat.
Ex-Royal Navy officer Angus
Konstam has produced more
than 60 books for Osprey, ably
SS Grenadiers on the
Russian Front
Rare Photographs from Wartime
Archives by Bob Carruthers
Another addition to the long-
running Images of War series
of books, this example takes
a look at the Waffen-SS on the
Russian Front from 1941 to
1945. The book is filled with
an outstanding collection of
photographs which vividly
demonstrates the highs and
the lows and reality of combat.
The author, military historian
Bob Carruthers certainly has an
eye for good image and what
captured my attention more than
pushed on into Germany and
Czechoslovakia for the final
countdown.
This book presented to us
by a French publisher and dual
assisted here by illustrator Tony
Bryan. The first of two about
British Destroyers in the New
Vanguard series, this book
contains a number of unpublished
photographs (courtesy of the
Stratford archive) and a number
of colour profiles and artwork
including a nice painting of H-Class
destroyers at The First Battle of
Narvik and a colour cutaway of
HMS Greyhound.
The book is broken down into
four main chapters named The
Destroyers of the Royal Navy;
Inter-War Destroyer Design;
The Destroyer Classes and
Destroyers in Action. The design
section covers function, role,
modifications, weaponry, sensors,
habitability and appearance.
anything was the expressions
on the faces of these hard-
core soldiers. The majority are
taken during the action while
only a handful are deliberately
posed with a forced smile; the
bulk of them demonstrates the
stresses and strains of the long
fruitless struggle to hold back
the giant, numerically superior
Soviet war machine. The
Waffen-SS Divisions suffered
more casualties than any other
German units and by the end of
the war the majority of the 38
Divisions were virtually wiped
out, such was the fanaticism of
these determined soldiers.
French authors, Stphane
Lavit and Philippe Charbonner
is very well laid out. It is
packed with good quality
period black and white and
colour photography plus a
number of informative battle
maps of the major actions
and orders of battle. With
13 chapters to its name the
layout is easy to dip into and
is easy on the eye; its a very
educational approach if that
INFORMATION
makes sense! Nice touches
at the rear of the book take
a look at the 1st Infantry
Division in the movies, facts
and figures, patches, attached
units, senior officers and
Medal of Honour recipients.
Books
The classes chapter is crammed
(the main bulk of the book)
with sections on Admiralty,
Shakespeare, Scott, V, W, A to H
and I-Class destroyers.
This is a great little book and
dont be put off by its size; it really
is filled with detailed but very
readable information on a very
interesting subject. Thanks to
Osprey for our review copy which
will be available from 20 April 2017.
David H Smith
INFORMATION
ISBN: 978-1-4728-1636-8
Pages: 48 Price: 10.99
Format: Softback 184mm x 162mm
Publisher: Osprey Publishing
Website: www.ospreypublishing.com
An essential addition to
anyone interested in the
activities of the Waffen-SS in
the east. The inspiration this
book provides to the modelling
fraternity alone, both figure and
vehicle modellers, is endless.
Thanks to Charlie Simpson at
Pen & Sword for our review copy.
Owen Cooper
INFORMATION
ISBN: 978-1473868366
Pages: 160 Price: 14.99
Format: Softback 245mm x 190mm
Publisher: Pen & Sword Military
Website: www.pen-and-sword.co.uk
This is a very pleasant way to
get a lot of information about a
large unit without having to read
a novel sized book with a few
black and whites buried in the
middle. Highly recommended to
those interested in the Big Red
One and the big crucial stages of
the Second World War.
Thanks to Tom Bonnington at
Casemate for our review copy.
MC
ISBN: 978-2-35250-464-1
Pages: 98 Price: 20.00
Format: Softback 250mm x 210mm
Publisher: Sophia Histoire et Collections
Website: www.historieetcollections.com
61
Product reviews
Atten-Shun!
The Product Review Column
The Editor welcomes product samples for review.
Please send direct to the Contributing Editor at the
address listed under Editorial on the contents page.
Figures
Perry Miniatures
American Civil War,
Union Infantry
1861-1865
For those of you who frequent
the magazines website and
Facebook pages you will
already have seen the review I
presented for Perry Miniatures
28mm British Infantry set. This
set, also in 28mm, is Union
Infantry of the American Civil
War between 1861 and 1865.
This obviously encompasses
the whole of this internal
conflict which resulted
in between 785,000 and
1,000,000 dead, the bulk of
them soldiers but civilians and
slaves also suffered.
Sculpted by Alan Perry, this
40 figure-strong set comprises
ten sprues made up of six
main soldier sprues (252 parts),
two further soldier sprues (36
parts), one drum and swords
etc. sprue (29 parts) and one
base sprue (17 parts); 334
parts which I think is a record
when you see the size of the
box (once their out you wont
get them back in!). The figures
represent a good cross-section
62
of Union infantry which took
part in the conflict and all are
wearing a standard four-button
sack coat. The world is your
oyster with regard to how you
want to pose these figures for
example you could have them
charging, right shoulder shift
and six of them can be posed
in skirmish mode.
The set includes an A5
sheet which displays some
of the wide range of infantry
units during the Civil War and
on the reverse is a nice display
of Union Corps badges, not to
mention the superb box art by
Peter Dennis which exercises
the imagination.
Excellent product, superb
value and thanks very much
to Perry Miniatures for these
figures which are available from
www.perry-miniatures.com.
MC
INFORMATION
Product: Hard plastic figure set
Ref: ACW 115 Scale: 28mm
Price: 20 Parts: 201
Manufacturer: Perry Miniatures
Website: www.perry-miniatures.com
AFV
Hobby Boss 1/35
German Panzer
1Ausf A Sd.Kfz.101
(Early/Late Version)
The Panzerkampfwagen I was
the first German tank to go
into mass production since the
post-World War I restrictions
had only authorised the
construction of armoured
cars. A light tank, the design
of the Panzer I began in 1932
and two years later was in full
production, although at first it
was only intended to be used
for training as the German
Army quickly got to grips with
the concept of armoured
warfare. Production continued
until 1938 although a few were
built in 1943. Manufactured
by Daimler, Henschel, Krupp
and MAN, 1,659 were built
as light tanks, a further 445
for training, 184 as command
tanks and 147 were converted
for special duties. Weighing
in at 5.4 tons, the Panzer one
was crewed by two and armed
with a pair of 7.92mm MG13
machine guns with power
provided by a 59hp Krupp M
305 air-cooled engine.
Once you have prised the
tight fitting lid off, you are
greeted with a box that is
crammed with parts; over
500 of them all individually
back on 15 sprues. Quite an
impressive start considering
the finished tank is little
more than 10cm long! The
black and white instruction
booklet is A-4 in size, has a
dozen pages and takes you
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017
carefully through a 13-stage
build. Your only colour guide
for this kit is the main box
art and a profile on the side.
However, colour and marking
options (in black and white)
at the rear of the instruction
booklet are for the (Early
Version) Spanish 2 Co. 2.
Batt. Agrupacion de Carros,
Pz-Abt.zBV40 in Norway in
1940, a Polish Campaign
machine and 5 Liechte
Div. North Africa and (Late
Version), Polish and North
African Campaigns.
This kit looks impressive on
the sprues and is up to Hobby
Bosss usual high standard
regarding moulding and lack
of flash. As usual the internal
details are all there, the engine
and gearbox is particularly
impressive and as always it
would be a shame to cover it
all up. The internal detail of the
turret is also very well done
and once this is all finished off
with the supplied PE sheet, the
completed kit will look very nice.
This is a very impressive
kit and good value for money.
Thanks very much to Creative
Models for our sample which
is available from
www.creativemodels.co.uk.
MC
INFORMATION
Product: Construction kit
Ref: 80145 Scale: 1/35
Price: 22.99 Parts: over 500+ PE Sheet (20)
Manufacturer: Hobby Boss
Website: www.hobbyboss.com

Figures
DG-Artwork 75mm
Celt Warrior 1st
Century, AD
Another striking addition to the
DG-Artwork portfolio is this
impressive Celt Warrior from
around 2,000 years ago. He
is in dramatic pose at full chat
charging towards the enemy,
sword at his side, spear in
hand and shield on his back.
This 75mm polyurethane resin
figure, which was sculpted by
Dae-Hyeong, Kim, comprises
eight parts. Contained within
a tough box (art by Alex Long),
the parts are the main body,
a pair of arms, a sheathed
sword, a two handed spear,
spear tip and a base. Prep work,
as usual, has been kept to a
AFV
Plastic Soldier 1/72
Allied Sherman M4A4
and Firefly Tank
Without doubt the most prolific
of all allied battle tanks built
during the Second World War,
the Medium M4, named by the
British as the Sherman reached
a production tally of nearly
50,000 by the time production
ended in 1945. Reliable and
reasonably cheap to produce,
the Sherman had the advantage
until the heavier armoured and
more powerful German heavy
tanks began to arrive in 1944.
The standard 75mm had had
its day by then and many were
refitted with a 76mm M1 or a
17-pounder which was a British
modification, resulting in the
name Firefly.
So what do have in this
set from The Plastic Soldier
Company, which specializes in
small scale wargaming figures
and vehicles. The smart box,
with artwork by David Pentland
contains six sprues; three of
them hold 16 parts apiece
including the lower hull and
tracks while three more hold 26
parts including the two variants
(M4A4 & Firefly) upper hulls,
different turrets, barrels and the
commander to name a few.
www.militarymodelling.com
Product reviews
minimum and the sculpting is to
a high standard; mould lines are
not evident. A very appealing
subject which has been
overlooked somewhat over the
years; fair play to DG-Artwork
for sticking their neck out and
deviating from the mainstream.
Thanks to Dea-Hyoung, Kim at
DG-Artwork for this figure which
is available from his website or a
wide number of online outlets.
MC
INFORMATION
Product: Resin figure kit
Ref: DG75F002 Scale: 75mm
Price: approx 36 Parts: 8
Manufacturer: DG-Artwork
Website: www.artworkdg.com
As I have said many times
before, the market is becoming
increasingly busy with good scale
models which would be more at
home on the wargaming table;
or is that the other way around?
It really is your choice which road
you go down. You could view
this set as a good way of gaining
three good quality Shermans for
your 1/72 dio or a trio of additions
to your miniature army.
Build time, for me, was
around 45 minutes per tank
and I was very happy with the
final result they look great; the
upper hull detail and differences
between the two variants is
spot on! Im looking forward to
reviewing more PSC products
and its nice to see them back
in the Military Modelling fold.
Thanks very much to Piers
Brand for our sample which is
available from
www.theplasticsoldiercompany.
co.uk.
MC
INFORMATION
Product: Construction kit
Ref: WW2V20015 Scale: 1/72
Price: 17.50 (PSC) Parts: 126
Manufacturer: The Plastic Soldier Co. Ltd.
Website: www.theplasticsoldiercompany.co.uk
63
Product reviews
AFV
Rubicon BM-
13 Katyusha &
Studebaker US6
The name Katyusha (Katie)
when associated with the
Second World War conjures up
a vision of flame trailing rockets
being delivered en masse
towards the enemy coupled with
a screeching sound which would
have put the fear of god into all
but the most battle hardened
troops, hence its nickname by
the Germans Stalinorgel
(Stalins organ). A simple
design, the BM-13 Katyusha
rocket artillery consisted of
parallel rails mounted on a
folding frame. The rocket was 2ft
7in (80cm) long, had diameter of
Figures
Scale75
SS Tanker NCO
Posed in a typically arrogant
stance, this latest figure from
Scale 75 depicts an SS Tanker
NCO (not NEO as I first
thought upon looking at the
package!). The figure itself
is cast in one piece, only the
head being a separate item.
64
pack waterslide decal sheet is
also included with Soviet and US
markings. The build is straight
forward, the only complex part is
the BM-13 and some care should
be applied to the folding frame
which can be made to elevate.
Once again, a wargaming scale kit
which makes for a great model.
Thanks to Jamie at Rubicon
5.2in (13.2cm) and weighed 93lb truck of which thousands were Models for our example.
(2kg). Generally the BM-13 was supplied to the Soviet Union under MC
mounted on a truck so that once Lend-Lease. Typically, Rubicon
INFORMATION
fired it could be quickly relocated gives the option of building a Product: Construction kit
otherwise the inevitable return standard US6 or the truck with Ref: 280036 Scale: 1/56 (28mm)
fire would have brought the day the BM-13 on the rear. The former
to an end quicker than planned. option helps raise the part count Price: 18 Parts: 49
This example by Rubicon to 49 which are mounted on three Manufacturer: Rubicon
features a BM-13 mounted to sturdy sprues while the cab of
the rear of a Studebaker US6 6x6 the US6 is separate. A jammed Website: www.rubiconmodels.com
AFV
And what a quality piece,
the casting is first rate
and the facial features on
this figure is superb. The
head is cast with a set of
headphones and throat mike
in-situ, also supplied is a
small length of fine fuse
wire to make the connection
leads, a nice touch.
The uniform depicted
is a common setup, the
instantly recognisable black
panzer jacket over a pair
of camouflage trousers. A
black Feldmutze, or field cap,
rounds out the ensemble.
All rank and medal detail is
extremely well done and will MiniArt 1/35 T-54-1 service today as medium
just require careful painting. MOD.1947 tanks or a modification of the
No painting information is original chassis.
supplied but the photo insert With its roots firmly This latest offering from
is double-sided, showing both embedded within the MiniArt is basically the
a front and rear view of the iconic T-34, the T-54 was a same as the 2016 version
completed figure. There are direct development of the (Kit No. 37003) but without
additional images on the Scale75 overshadowed T-44 of which the interior so as a result it
website to help, if necessary. only a mere 1,823 were ever is several pounds cheaper.
Andy Evans built. In contrast, the T-54, Even the same tank has
which was first designed been used for the box
in 1945 and continually art albeit presented in a
INFORMATION
Product: Construction kit tweaked until 1958 remained standard green. The tank
Ref: SW35-002 Scale: 1/35 in production until 1983 (in featured is the initial serial
Czechoslovakia) and as a production version, the T-54-
Price: Approx 10.00 Parts: 2 result up to 100,000 were 1 with improved, thicker
Manufacturer: Scale75 built. It will not come as armour. The lack of interior
surprise then that a large makes this version of the
Website: www.scale75.com
number still remain in T-54 a comparatively easy
Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017

Aircraft
Eduard Messerschmitt
Bf 109G-6 Erla
Out of nearly 34,000 examples
of the Messerschmitt Bf 109
built, approximately 12,000 of
them was the G-6 version as
presented here by Eduard in
Weekend Edition form. The
G-6 was classed as a Light
Fighter and it had eleven sub-
variants which operated in the
reconnaissance, high-altitude,
night fighter and tropicalized
role in all theatres. The G-6
was particularly noted for
introducing the bigger 13mm
MG 131 machine gun which
resulted in larger blisters on
the upper surfaces of the
wing to conceal the breeches;
build and dont be put off
by the 970 parts; 228 of
them are track links. The
parts are all contained on
an impressive 56 sprues,
plus a 98-part PE sheet,
so as you can imagine the
box is well and truly full. A
subtle sign of saving a few
pennies here and there is
the A4 instruction booklet
which used high quality
glossy paper for the outer
eight pages and matt lower
quality paper for the interior.
I personally think this is a
false economy when you
start scrimping on paper!
A thoroughly satisfying
solid build of this icon of
the Cold War, the kit also
features workable torsion
bars and a decal sheet for
four different variants.
Thanks very much to
Creative Models for our
sample which is available from
www.creativemodels.co.uk.
Andy Palmer
INFORMATION
Product: Construction kit
Ref: 37014 Scale: 1/35
Price: 43.99 Parts: 970
Manufacturer: MiniArt
Website: www.miniart-models.com
www.militarymodelling.com
the down side to this was a
marginal loss in speed.
This 2017 rebox with some
updated and new parts
originally harks back to 2012.
Despite being a trimmed down
weekend edition there is still
enough extra parts to build
the G-14 as well. All contained
within a relatively large box
for a 1/48 machine, this kit
is up to Eduards usual high
standard backed up by a glossy
Aftermarket
AK Interactive
Vietnam U.S. Green
& Camouflage
This release from AK Interactive
is a boxed set of paints in their
Figure Series, comprising of six
17ml bottles of paint. The box is
one of AK Interactives newer
versions with an illustration
and a list of paints on the front
and a few examples of typical
Vietnam era uniform colours.
Inside the box there is a
plastic tray contain the typical
bottles of acrylic paint, the
six colours are listed as; Dark
A4 instruction booklet with
a couple of smart colour and
decal options to the rear. For
obvious reasons Eduard likes
to push its aftermarket PE and
for this aircraft there are nine
additional improvements you
can purchase including canopy,
wheels, propeller, exhaust
stacks and even a radio
compartment. These additions
would make this very good kit
look outstanding.
Green, Light Green, Medium
Green, Green Black, US Field
Drab and Grey Green. The
colours may prove very useful
for those modellers who paint
Vietnam era figures and will
provide a good starting point
when painting uniforms.
However the paints inside the
box are in fact from other sets,
they appear to have come from
a number of their dedicated
World War 2 German uniform
sets with the US Field Drab
from another set.
I would have preferred a
painting guide to have been
included with this set bit overall
Product reviews
The name Erla refers to the
canopy type which is included
but the two decal options for
Stab III./HG 5 and II./JG 52,
as nice as they are, are not
appropriate for it.
Thanks very much to Eduard
for our sample which is
available from all major outlets
and online model stores.
Andy Palmer
INFORMATION
Product: Construction kit
Ref: 84142 Scale: 1/48
Price: Approx 16.50 Parts: ???
Manufacturer: Eduard
Website: www.eduard.com
this set can be recommended
to those modellers who enjoy
painting figures from the
Vietnam era. The modeller will
have large latitude with the
uniform colours as the extreme
environment encountered in
this theatre of operations would
alter the uniform colours.
Available from MJR
Models & Hobbies www.
mjrmodelsandhobbies.co.uk or
see AK Interactives website.
Brian ODonoghue
INFORMATION
Product: Paints
Ref: AK3200 Scale: 1/35
Price: 17.99 Parts: 6
Manufacturer: AK Interactive
Website: www.ak-interactive.com
65
 BRAND NEW
Set of resin wheels for kits in 1/35 scale.
Our wheels are designed with use of original measurements and pictures. The
original casting method leaves only a tiny trace of casting plug (around 1 mm
wide).
The set contains 14 complete wheels, a spare wheel, a drill and a QuickWheel
painting mask.
FEATURES LIST:
- corrected shape of the steel wheel by adding the grooves inside the rims
- corrected depth of the steel wheel (please note how shallow are the ones
in plastic kits and how deep are the wheels actually on pictures of real
tanks)
- corrected shape and size of the bolts
- added optional stripe in the middle of wheels rubber bandage to imitate
the residue of rubber from vulcanization process, which can be easily
sanded off if not required.
- corrected height and width of the middle hub of the wheel
- added the grease nipples on the middle hub cap and its side (early place
ment and shape)
BK-062 M48 Early pattern wheels + Spare (for Revell & other manfuacturers - added markings on the rubbers
kits). QuickWheel mask included.

www.quickwheelstore.com

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 Briefing

Volume 47 No.6 will be on sale 26th May 2017

Next issue www.militarymodelling.com

l DANA
Impressive Hobby
Boss self-propelled
artillery piece

l The Road to Berlin

the diorama, Part 1
Building a fictional, yet probable
diorama during the closing
stages of WW2
l Normandy LCM
A little reminder of the D-Day landings l Nine Hats
73 years ago The military on parade in
cigarette card form

l 3-D M10
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and progressive world
of 3D printing

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72 Military Modelling Vol.47 No.5 2017

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Advertisers Index
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73