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Making Soaps in a Blender

Copyright Treasure Cottage 2004

www.treasure-cottage.com

1-970-272-3206

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 Table of Contents
Safely Working With Lye .............................................................................................. 7
About the Ingredients ................................................................................................... 8
What You Will Need....................................................................................................... 9
Making Soap from Scratch ........................................................................................... 9
Making Soap in a Blender................................................................................... 11
Making Liquid Hand Soap in a Blender .............................................................. 12
Liquid Soap......................................................................................................... 12
The Hand Rebatch Method................................................................................. 13
Soap Making Oils and Their Characteristics ............................................................ 15
Terms ........................................................................................................................... 15
Soap Making Oils ........................................................................................................ 16
Soap Troubleshooting Chart ...................................................................................... 23

Liquid Soaps in Blender ............................................................................................. 26

Liquid Soap 1...................................................................................................... 26
Liquid Soap 2...................................................................................................... 26
Soaps in Blender ................................................................................................ 26
Australian Emu Soap .......................................................................................... 26
Canadian Winter Body Bar ................................................................................. 26
Cinnamon & Spice Oatmeal Soap ...................................................................... 27
Cocoa & Tallow Bar............................................................................................ 27
Cucumber Body Bar ........................................................................................... 27
Cucumber Body Bar ........................................................................................... 27
Easy Coffee Soap............................................................................................... 27
Easy Oatmeal Bar .............................................................................................. 28
Evening Primrose Paradise Bar.......................................................................... 28
Fishermans Soap............................................................................................... 28
Gentle Baby Soap .............................................................................................. 28
Gilligans Favorite ............................................................................................... 29
Goats Milk Soap ................................................................................................. 29
Kiwi and Melon ................................................................................................... 29

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 Luscious Lavender Baby Soap ........................................................................... 29
Malaysian Silk Soap ........................................................................................... 30
Mechanics Dream Bar ........................................................................................ 30
Ocean Voyagers Body Bar (lathers in Salt Water).............................................. 30
Ocean Voyagers Body Bar (lathers in Salt Water).............................................. 30
Orange Blossom Bar .......................................................................................... 31
Quick Trace Pine Scent Bar ............................................................................... 31
Rainwater Bar..................................................................................................... 31
Shea Butter Supreme ......................................................................................... 31
Springwater Shampoo Bar.................................................................................. 32
Strawberry Shampoo Bar ................................................................................... 32
Tropical Paradise Bar ......................................................................................... 32
Wintergreen Herbal Soap ................................................................................... 32
Ultimate Quick Trace Formula ............................................................................ 32

More Blender Soap Recipes....................................................................................... 33

Canolive N Thyme .............................................................................................. 33
Handmade Oatmeal Soaps ................................................................................ 34
Milky Soap .......................................................................................................... 35
Peppermint Soap................................................................................................ 36
Pure Soap Mink Oil Shampoo ............................................................................ 37
Soap III ............................................................................................................... 37
Vegetable Soap .................................................................................................. 38
Table of Weights and Measures................................................................................. 39
Notes ............................................................................................................................ 40
Household Shopping List........................................................................................... 47

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Safely Working With Lye
Lye is one of the key ingredients in the production of soap. Through a chemical
reaction it converts oils and fats to what we know as soap. Lye is also one of the key
ingredients in drain openers such as Drano and liquid plumber because of its unique
ability to convert greasy buildup into a soluble substance thus clearing a clogged line.
Lye should be handled in the same way that drain cleaner, bleach or pool chemicals
would be handled. If mishandled it can be a dangerous chemical and can cause harm
to you and others. If handled correctly these kinds of problems can be avoided. There
is no reason why accidents involving lye cannot be completely avoided.

You can substantially reduce your chances of ever having an accident by remembering
three things.

1. Never pour water into lye. Always pour lye into the water. (slowly) If you pour water
onto lye it can cause a violent reaction.
2. Secondly, be careful not to splash or spill the lye solution.
3. Keep lye out of the reach of children.
Please read the following safety information regarding lye.

Warning: Keep children and animals away from lye. Lye is very caustic and can cause
serious injury or even death if swallowed and can cause blindness if splashed into the
eyes. By all means wear long sleeves and be sure to always wear safety goggles.
Always keep a large cup of fresh water nearby. If you should splash some lye or raw
soap into your eye, IMMEDIATELY pour large amounts of cool water into your eye
continuously for 10 minutes, or longer. Visit your nearest hospital emergency room or
call 911. If you should splash lye or raw soap onto your skin, rinse immediately with cool
water. For more serious skin burns, seek medical care immediately. If lye is accidentally
swallowed, do not induce vomiting, call a poison control center or 911 for further
instructions, get to emergency fast. It is important to have your lye containers labeled.
Again, keep lye away from children and when working with lye keep children away from
your work area.

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About the Ingredients

Oil or Fats - Almost any natural oil or animal fat can be turned into soap. Some
examples are corn oil, canola oil, olive oil, vegetable shortening, tallow, bacon grease,
lard etc.. (more information is provided about the different kinds of oils and fat at the link
below referencing Oil Properties.

Red Devil brand 100% lye (NaOH) sodium hydroxide - This is the ingredient that
converts the oil or fat to soap. It used to be extracted from ashes in earlier times but
now is widely available. Try home improvement, grocery or hardware stores. Usually
comes in 12 oz. cans for aprox. $2.00/can. Their are other brands besides Red Devil
that are just as good but not as commonly found.

Water - Preferably distilled water or bottled water. Minerals in hard tap water aren't
good for soapmaking.

Essential Oils and Fragrances- These are not required, but can add a nice fragrance
to your soap. Stay away from any scents that contain alcohol. Also, avoid potpourri and
candle scent oils and especially commercial perfumes. They can cause unforeseen
problems and are best avoided. Essential oils and fragrance oils are commonly
available at health food stores and are generally used for aroma therapy.

Other additives - Oatmeal, spices, herbs etc.. can also be added to soap at the trace
stage.

Soap Colorants - These can be purchase from a soap supply store or you can use
crayons made from stearic acid (most are) If you use crayons melt a piece and add it at
the trace stage.

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What You Will Need
(almost everything you will need can be found at at Wal-Mart and your local Grocery
Store)
-Pair of safety goggles and a long sleeve shirt or coveralls. (Important)
-Pair of Neoprene rubber gloves or dish washing gloves.
-Half gallon Rubbermaid type pitchers (dishwasher safe). One for water, one for lye.
-Sturdy plastic stirring spoons, one for oils, one for lye/water mix.
-Glass (not aluminum) candy thermometers.
-Large enameled or stainless pot to melt oils in. (16 qt. would work). (Do not use
aluminum pots, only stainless steel or enameled.)
-Old blanket, preferably wool. (For insulating molds after pouring)
-Kitchen food scale or postal scale.
-Saran type food wrap. (For lining molds)
-Molds
-Stick Blender is optional (creates a faster trace)

For blender soap you will also need:

-Standard Kitchen Blender with lid
-Towel

Making Soap from Scratch

Step One - Prepare your molds. Molds can be anything from a greased pan to capped
pvc pipes or candy molds. Set up your molds on a flat and level surface. Grease them
with PAM. Make sure you have enough molds ready to accommodate all of your soap
mix.

MOLDS : For molds you can use a wooden or cardboard box lined with saran wrap,
candy molds or even a pvc pipe capped on one end. If you use a pvc pipe all you do is
spray the inside with PAM, pour the solution into the pipe, let it set, and then uncap and
push out the soap. You then can cut it into round pieces.

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Step Two - Measure out your water and lye. Dissolve the correct amount of lye in cold
water (Do not use an aluminum container. Use stainless steel, enamel coated steel or a
heat resistant glass container like Pyrex). Do not pour water into the lye. Pour the lye
slowly into the water a little at a time. Stir until dissolved and let cool. Your previously
cold water will become very HOT in a matter of seconds after stirring in the lye Allow
the lye/water solution to cool to around 110 degrees. At this point it will be clear.

Step Three - Measure, Mix and Melt Oils and fat and let cool gradually to around 110
degrees. If your oils are already in liquid form such as canola oil or corn oil simply heat
them up to around 110 degrees. Make sure the pot that the oil is in is large enough to
hold the oil and lye solution with enough room left over for stirring without splattering. If
you wish you can use a separate container for mixing the oil and lye. In this case you
would pour the warmed oil into this container prior to step 4.

Step Four - Pour the lye solution into the oil/fat in a thin, steady, stream with slow, even
stirring. Be careful not to splatter the solution onto yourself or others. Continue stirring.
Depending upon the type of oil you are using the solution will begin to thicken or trace in
between 15 minutes to 3 hours. If you are using a slow trace recipe you may want to stir
for a few minutes and then let the solution sit for 10-15 minutes and then repeat this
process until a trace appears. (a trace is when you can take a spoonful of the soap
solution and pour a stream across the top of the solution and have it leave a trace)

Step Five - When the solution begins to thicken you can add any essential oils or
fragrances as well as any other additives that your recipe calls for. (i.e. Oatmeal, herbs
etc..) Stir these ingredients into the soap mix thoroughly

Step Six - Pour this mixture into your mold or molds. After you pour the solution into
your mold you should cover it with a towel to keep the soap from cooling to fast. This
will assist the soap in curing.

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Step Seven - Let the soap harden for a day or two and then pop it out of the mold, cut it
and let it age for about 3 weeks before using it.

TIP - You can purchase soap colorants from a soap supply company or you can use
crayons that are made with stearic acid (most are). To use crayons melt a small piece
and add it at the trace stage.

Making Soap in a Blender

Although using a blender does not allow for big batches of soap, it has four major
advantages:
1) Blending your soap mix makes for a much shorter time to the thin trace stage.
Instead of 15 - 40 minutes, it might require only minutes or even seconds.
2) Since liquid fat and oils can be used at room temperature, no thermometers are
required. For solid fats simply heat them until they are melted.
3) The blender effectively whips the lye water into the fats producing a much smoother
mixture so the chances of your mix separating are greatly reduced.
4. Your soap bars will be creamier in consistency and should float due to the air that is
whipped into the solution.

Step One - Dissolve the lye in cold water and wait until it cools and the mixture turns
clear.

Step Two - Carefully pour the oil and then the lye/water solution into the blender. Be
careful not to splash or spill the lye on yourself or others.

Step Three - Lock the blender in position, secure the cover, place a towel over the top
of the blender for safety, and process at the lowest possible speed. Make sure you are
wearing your goggles when you process the soap mixture and make sure the towel is in
place to avoid any accidental splashing of the lye/oil mixture.

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Stop the blender and check the soap often to watch for what is called a thin-trace
stage. This is when the soap mixture just begins to thicken. Each time you stop the
blender, wait a few seconds before removing the cover. Sometimes the soap "burps"
when it stops as trapped air comes to the top. At the thin trace stage, stop the blender
and stir the soap to check for tracing and to allow bubbles to escape.

Step Four - At this point you can add any essential oils,colorants or fragrances as well
as any other ingredients such as oatmeal or herbs. Blend these in for a few seconds
and then stop the blender.

Step Five - Pour the soap into individual molds. Cover it with a blanket for insulation.
Let the soap set for a day or two and then after popping it out of the molds cut it and let
it age for at least three weeks.

Making Liquid Hand Soap in a Blender

Making liquid soap is no more difficult than making hard bars. The difference is in the
type of lye you use. For hard bars you use sodium hydroxide. For liquid soap you use
potassium hydroxide also known as Potash or KOH.

Liquid Soap
Prepare the same way you would regular bar soap in a blender except use potassium
hydroxide instead of sodium hydroxide and instead of pouring the solution into a mold
you pour it into a plastic container to cure. (The solution will take a little longer than
regular soap to trace since you are using potassium hydroxide versus sodium
hydroxide.) Once in the container let the mixture cure for two weeks. After two weeks
thin the mix with water until it is about the consistency of hand soap. At this point you
can add any essential oils or fragrances you desire. You can use a stick or regular
blender for this step also. After it is mixed pour the soap into a pump jar type container
and you are done.

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The Hand Rebatch Method
Hand rebatching is a method by which you can take existing soap or soap scraps, melt
them down, pour the melted soap into molds and make new soap. Rebatching is a
good time to add essential oils, fragrances and other additives such as herb, oatmeal,
etc.. that would have been altered if added during the initial soapmaking stage.

The process is simple, however, there are some steps that can be taken to make the
process easier and error free. We highly recommend the oven method because of an
ovens unique ability to heat evenly and slowly.

Tips: When rebatching the fresher the soap the better. Soap that is a week old reqiures
less added liquid than three week old soap. Also, keep the heat as low as possible to
avoid burning the soap.

The steps are as follows:

Step One - Cut your soap pieces into small chunks or grate your soap with a kitchen
grater.

Step Two - Place the soap chunks or shavings in a stainless steel, enamel coated or
glass pot.

Step Three - For most vegetable oil based soap chunks or shavings pour one cup of
milk to every pound of soap into the bottom of the pan. For Olive Oil soap shavings use
1/2 cup milk. For animal fat based soap shavings use a half cup of water or milk per
pound. For soap that is less than a week old cut these measurements in half.

Step Four - Cover the pot and let the soap sit and soak up the milk or water for an hour
or two. Stir every half hour.

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Step Five - Heat your oven to its lowest setting. (no more than 170 degrees) Place the
pot into the oven and let it heat for an hour or so. Check and stir the mix every 15
minutes.

Step Six - When the soap smooths out you can stir in any essential oils, fragrances,
oatmeal, herbs, cocoa butter, etc that you want.

Step Seven - Blend the soap. You can either take the soap out of the oven and blend it
with a hand mixer in the pot or you can pour it into a blender and mix it. A hand blender
may be the quickest and best method. You want to get it blended before it starts to set
up.

Step Eight - Once blended you simply pour it into the molds, let it set up a couple of
days, pop it from the molds and let it age a week or two. Thats it.

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Soap Making Oils and Their Characteristics

Terms:
Saturated Fat - Oils that make a hard soap. Usually come in a solid form and need to
be melted before using. Coconut, cocoa butter, Palm oil are examples.

Scenting Oils - There are two types of scenting oils, fragrance oils, which are man-
made and contain alcohol and essential oils which are natural. The alcohol in fragrance
oils tends to cause problems in soap making so essential oil's are normally used in soap
making. Essential Oil's are more costly and harder to find than Fragrance Oil's but
have better scent retention and will not ruin a batch of soap. The only time fragrance
oils can often be used safely is at the trace stage or during rebatching. Essential oils
can be added at trace or in the base oil.

Superfatting Soap - This means that oils or fats have been left in the soap
unconverted by the lye either because the amount of lye was decreased to allow some
fat/oil to remain or oil/fat was added at the trace stage after the mix had saponified. (In
lay terms saponification means that the lye/water and oils have been mixed and brought
to a trace stage where at this point the lye has been mostly neutralized. Any oil added
at this stage will basically remain unchanged in the final soap bar) The method of
adding additional fat to the soap mixture after it has saponified had an advantage in that
it allows the soap maker to better control what oil is left in the soap. Adding the extra oil
at this time keeps it in its natural state, and ready to instantly moisturize your skin as
you use the soap. When superfatting your soap at the trace stage make sure you use
the 1% excess fat lye amount. Otherwise the soap will be too oily because it will not
only contain the oil you add at the trace stage but will also have excess fat from a lack
of lye.

Superfatting soap by decreasing the lye content eliminates the step of adding oil at
trace but decreases the control that the soap maker has over what oil is left in the soap.
For example, if 5% cocoa butter was added as part of the base oil (say 95% Olive Oil)

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and the lye amount was calculated for a 5% excess fat level the excess fat in the soap
would be made up of a combination of Olive oil and cocoa butter with most of the
excess fat being Olive oil. If the same batch was mixed using just Olive Oil at a 1%
excess fat level and the cocoa butter was added at the trace stage you would know that
the final soap bar contained 1% olive oil and 5% cocoa butter. The cocoa butter would
have in this case been unaffected by the lye since it was added after the soap had
traced.

(NOTE - When adding oils at the trace stage (superfatting) be sure to use a lye
calculatation that gives you about 1% excess fat. When using our Soap-Calc program
or any other lye calculator do not include the oils that you will be adding at trace in the
calculation)

Trace - The point at which the soap/lye mixture begins to thicken. At this point the
solution is about 80-90% saponified and essential oils, superfatting oils, colors,
additives, etc can be added without their characteristics being changed substantially by
the saponification process.

Unsaturated Fat - Oils that are in a liquid form. They need to be mixed with saturated
fats at the base oil stage in order to create a hard bar.

Soap Making Oils:

Sweet Almond Oil -Sweet Almond Oil is often used for superfatting soaps. It is a great
moisturizer, makes a stable lather and helps condition the skin. Add 1 ounce per pound
of fats to your soap batch at trace.

Aloe Vera Liquid, Aloe Vera Gel - Aloe vera is used in creams and lotions. It's a well
known healing and soothing agent for damaged, dry skin. It is soothing and healing for
burns, skin irritations, and raw open wounds. Liquid aloe vera may be added to
cosmetic formulations, soaps, and straight on the skin.

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Apricot Kernel Oil - Apricot kernel oil is often used for superfatting. It is also a good
moisturizer and helps condition the skin. Use one or two ounces in every pound of fat
at trace.

Avocado Oil - Avocado oil is a great moisturizer and is often used for superfatting
soaps. Avocado oil contains vitamins A, D, and E, which makes it healing as well as
moisturizing. Try it in a gentle baby soap. Use up to 30% as base oil.

Beeswax - Beeswax has the sweet smell of honey. Beeswax makes a harder bar of
soap and is also used in creams, lotions, lip balms and candle making. It contains a
high percentage of unsaponifiables. At best, half of these substances participate in the
normal soap making reaction. You can use it at about 1 oz per lb. of oils in your base
oils to make your soaps harder.

Calendula Oil - Has many therapeutic benefits and is known to successfully heal a
variety of types of skin damage. (burns, wounds, dry skin) To superfat soap use 1 2/3
tablespoons per 5 lbs of soap at trace or use up to 20% added to other oils at the
beginning of the soap making process.

Canola Oil - Canola oil is a good moisturizer but is less saturated than other fats, so it
can be slow to saponify. Use it in place of more expensive oils like olive. Needs to be
mixed with other saturated fats in order to speed up saponification. Use as a base oil
up to 50%.

Castor Oil - Castor oil is often used to superfat. It attracts and holds moisture in the
skin. Use it in combination with other vegetable oils to produce a nice hard bar of soap.
You can add a bit at trace for superfatting or add it to other oils at a rate of no more
than 30% in the beginning of the soapmaking process.

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Cocoa Butter - Cocoa butter is used to make soaps harder. When used in soap as a
superfatting oil it acts to lay down a protective layer which holds the moisture to the
skin, so it is an excellent skin softener. It has a natural chocolate scent but it is also
available in unscented versions. You can use it from anywhere about 1 ounce to a
pound at trace, to 15% of your total base oils, depending on your preference.

Coconut Oil - Coconut oil makes soaps lather beautifully but can be drying when it
makes up a large portion of your soap's fats. It will make a very hard, white bar of soap
with abundant lather. It even lathers in very hard water or even sea water). Coconut oil
is a saturated fat. Use it at a percentage of no more than 20-30% in your base oils.

Cottonseed Oil - Cottonseed oil produces thick and lasting lather, in addition to having
emollient properties. It can be vulnerable to spoilage depending on the season, so use
less of this oil. Maximum recommended usage - 25% of total base oils.

Emu Oil - Emu Oil is reported to help heal skin tissues and help draw other ingredients
(like mint) down into your skin so they are more effective. Use 1 ounce per pound at
trace.

Evening Primrose Oil - Evening primrose oil is absorbed quickly into skin and
provides essential fatty acids that are reported to help inhibit bacterial growth and
encourage antibodies so the skin is better able to defend against infection or
inflammation. It is not recommended as an additive in soaps made for oily complexions.
Recommended Usage - 2 tablespoons per 5 pounds of soap, added at trace.

Grapeseed Oil - Grapeseed oil is a lightweight oil that absorbs into the skin quickly
without leaving a heavy greasy feeling. Used in soaps as a superfatting oil. Use one
ounce per pound at trace.

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Hazelnut Oil - Hazelnut is an excellent moisturizer for soaps. It is low in saturated fatty
acids, so use other more saturated fats to lessen your trace time and yield a harder
bar. Recommended maximum usage - 20% of total oils.

Hempseed Oil - Hempseed oil is not as stable as some other oils and can spoil quickly.
It creates a silky bar of soap even if it is only used to superfat your batch. It is a less
saturated fat, and since it is prone to spoilage, keep it as a small percentage of your
mix to avoid having a soft, squishy soap that may spoil in a few months. Usage - As a
Superfatting at 5% at trace or Base oil at 20-30% but no more than 40%.

Honey - (not an oil but can be used as an additive) - Honey is also a humectant, so it
helps retain moisture on the skin in much the same way as glycerin. Use it at about 2
Tablespoons per pound of oils, added at trace.

Jojoba - Jojoba helps to promote a stable lather and is good at conditioning skin.
Because of its expense, it's usually used to superfat soap batches or in shampoo bars.
It is an excellent emollient for skin conditions like psoriasis, because it has a chemical
composition very close to the skin's own sebum. It is suitable for all skin types,
beneficial for spotty and acne conditions, and good for sensitive and oily skin. It also
helps to unclog the pores and remove any embedded grime, restores and conditions
hair. When using Jojoba in soap, limit its usage to one or two ounces per pound at
trace. Jojoba naturally accelerates tracing in soap recipes. Used as a Superfatting oil.

Kukui Nut Oil - The kukui nut is native to Hawaii and is high in linoleic acid. It is quickly
absorbed into the skin. Excellent for skin conditioning after sun exposure, as well as for
acne, eczema, and psoriasis. It offers just the right amount of lubrication without leaving
a greasy feeling. For soap making, use 2 tablespoons added to 5 lbs of soap at trace
just before incorporating the essential oils to add richness to the soap. A higher
percentage, 10-20% of the total fats also makes an outstanding soap.

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Lard - Lard is made from pig fat much like bacon fat. Its advantages are that it is cheap,
easily obtainable, and makes a nice lathery, white bar of soap. This fat should be
combined with vegetable oils such as coconut or palm to compensate for the lard's
shortcomings Without other oils it can tend to be soft and not work very well in cold
water. Use it as a base oil. Recommended at 70% max of total oils.

Macadamia Oil - Macadamia is a luxurious and slightly expensive oil. It has a long
shelf life so it can be purchased in quantity for a good price. It is a wonderful addition to
any soap. It is easily absorbed into the skin and acts as an emollient protecting skin
cells from deterioration and thus leading to better condition for your skin. Use for
superfatting your soap. Use 1 ounce per pound at trace.

Mango Butter - Mango butter is extracted from the mango fruit. It is a yellowish oil and
has almost no scent. It is a great moisturizer and should be used to superfat batches.
Can be used at up to 15% of base or as a superfatting agent at 5% at trace.

Monoi Oil, also known as Monoi de Tahiti - Monoi oil is expensive but luxurious
product made from coconut oil. It oil has wonderful moisturizing properties and is great
for your skin. Use it as a base oil at 60% or higher.

Neem Oil - Extracted from the bark of the Neem Tree. This oil has the ability to treat a
variety of skin disorders such as dandruff. Use as a base oil up to 40%.

Olive Oil - Olive oil is excellent as a base oil in soaps, either in whole (Castile soap) or
in part. Avoid extra virgin olive oil. It is great for cooking but not for soap making. The
lower the grade the better. Olive Oil prevents the loss of your skin's natural moisture,
softens skin and attracts external moisture to your skin. It helps keeps your skin soft,
supple and younger looking. If you're making an especially mild soap use Olive oil. Use
as a base oil up to 100%

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Palm Oil, also known as Vegetable Tallow - Palm oil makes a hard bar that cleans
well and is also mild. It is a good substitute for tallow in all-vegetable soaps. The
quality of Palm oil is far superior to other vegetable oils that are filler oils. Palm oil is
universal and used in many expensive luxury soaps. Use is as a Base oil at 20 - 30%.

Palm Kernel Oil - Like Palm Oil, Palm Kernel oil makes a soap that is very hard and
lathers well. It has most of the same qualities as palm oil. Use it as a Base oil at 20-
30%

Peanut Oil - Peanut oil contributes long-lasting lather to a soap. It is highly unsaturated
though, so it is prone to spoilage. Avoid using more than 20%. Peanut oil is similar to
olive and castor oils and has a good amount of vitamin E. Use is as a base oil up to a
20% maximum.

Safflower Oil - Safflower oil is an unsaturated oil and should be used in combination
with palm, coconut, or a similar oil. It is valuable for its moisturizing properties. Use it as
Base oil up to 60%. 20% of total is more highly recommended.

Sesame Seed Oil - Sesame oil is said to be good for Psoriasis, Eczema, Rheumatism,
and Arthritis. It makes a good superfatting oil due to its moisturizing ability. It has a
strong nutty scent. It makes a softish bar unless used in conjunction with other, more
saturated oils. Use it as a 10% addition to base oils.

Shea Butter - Shea butter is a wonderful superfatting agent and contains a large
percentage of ingredients that do not react with the lye thus remaining in the soap to
nourish your skin. Use it with your base at up to 20% of your total oils or as a
superfatting agent at 1 2/3 tablespoons per 5 pounds of oils added at trace.

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Vegetable Shortening or Soybean Oil - Vegetable shortening is normally made out of
soybean oil. It is cheap and readily available and produces a mild, stable lather. Use it
in combination with other exotic or moisturizing oils. Use this as half of your fats to keep
costs down. It is a good filler and makes a very hard white bar when used alone and
when mixed with other oils it makes a wonderful hard bar of soap. Use vegetable
shortening as a base oil or combine it with other, harder oils for better results.
Recommend use as base up to 50% of total oils.

Sunflower Oil - Sunflower oil is a less expensive alternative to olive oil. It contains
Vitamin E, so it naturally resists going rancid (Vitamin E is a preservative). Despite that,
don't store it longer than six months. It is a less saturated oil so you want to combine it
with other, more saturated, oils -- try to avoid using more than about 15-20% sunflower
oil. It can make your soaps take longer to trace and to harden. Use as a Base oil up to
20%

Wheat Germ Oil - This oil is thick, sticky and antioxidant. It's also very rich in vitamin E.
Can be used to nourish dry or cracked skin and soothes skin problems such as eczema
and psoriasis. Helps to prevent and reduce scarring and may prevent stretch marks.
Mature skin, in particular, will benefit from wheat germ oil. Some people use it as a
preservative in vegetable oils, soaps and toiletries, and others totally disagree as to its
preservative powers. On its own, wheat germ oil oxidizes rapidly. It should be kept
refrigerated. Use at 1 ounce per pound added at trace.

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 Soap Troubleshooting Chart
PROBLEM CAUSE
Insufficient lye, excess
amount of water, wrong
temperatures, not stirred
Soap won't trace enough or too slow. A high
percentage of unsaturated
fats in the base oils will also
cause slow tracing.
Oil and/or lye poured into
Mixture curdles while mixing bowl at too high
stirring temperature. Sporadic or
slow stirring.
Oil and Lye/water
temperatures were too high
or low. Fats and oils are
Mixture sets up too reacting to a synthetic
quickly in pan. fragrance or other additive. Everything should be fine other than aesthetic
The percentage of
saturated fats was
excessive.
23
SOLUTION
Double check water, oil and lye
measurements. If amounts and temperatures
are correct, continue stirring up to 3 hours or
until the solution traces. If possible, switch to
a stick blender which will substantially speed
up tracing. Remember that you don't have to
stir constantly for the full 3 hours. Stir 5
minutes and then wait 15 and repeat. After 3
hours stirring or 30 minutes blending, if it
shows no signs of thickening, pour into molds
regardless of trace and let sit for 24 hours. If
the mixture still does not harden, discard it.
Switch to a stick blender and smooth out
mixture then pour into molds. You can also
continue stirring and pour the mixture into the
molds and then check for irregularities in the
soap bars. If there are irregularities discard
the bars.
Pour the mix into the molds as quickly as
possible. Smooth out with a spatula.
problems.
Mixture is slightly grainy Oils and lye solution either Switch to a stick blender or continue stirring
too hot or too cold. to a traced pour into molds. Should be an
Sporadic stirring process. aesthetic problem only.

Continue to stir or switch to a stick blender.

Go ahead and pour into molds at trace or
As soap cools in the mold, Too much oil in recipe or
even if soap does not trace (try for up to 3
a layer of oil rises to the not enough lye. Incorrect
hours stirring or 30 minutes blending) Check
top measuring.
soap in 2 - 3 weeks. If it doesn't lather well
and is caustic, discard soap.

When cutting up soap

You can try and cut up the soap with gloves
after popping it out of the
Too much lye in formula. on and wash away the excess lye however it
mold or while cutting it for
Poor stirring method. would be safer to discard the bars and start
hand-milled soap, there is
again.
a clear liquid present.

Not enough lye or too much

Try curing the bars for a couple weeks
Soft Spongy Soap unsaturated fat in formula
longer. If they remain soft discard them.
or too much water

Discard. Bars with too much lye can irritate

Hard Brittle Soap Too much lye.
or burn skin.

Too much fat or too little lye

Soap smells rancid. Discard soap.
in recipe.

Using a stick blender or regular blender can

Stirred too long or whipped
Air Bubbles in Soap cause this. It is not really a problem. Only
while stirring
aesthetic in some cases.

No solution. Discard and consider using a

Lye pockets in soap either Insuffient stirring or too
stick blender to avoid under mixing. Also
in powdered or liquid form much lye in formula
double check lye calculation.

24
Mottled or irregular Uneven stirring or Aesthetic problem only.
looking soap with a substantial temperature
freckled look. changes during curing.

Soap separates in the

Insuffient stirring, not
mold with a greasy layer
enough lye, mixture poured Discard
of oil on top of a hard
into molds too soon.
soap.

Lots of white powder on Hard water used and/or lye

top of soap during curing did not properly dissolve in Discard
process water

Reaction with air createing

Small amount of white
a buildup of sodium Aesthetic problem only.
powder on top of soap
carbonate

Not a problem with the soap. Try shaving the

Problem in the drying bars smooth with a vegetable peeler or carve
Warped soap
process the bars into shapes or cut into pieces for
rebatching.

Various aesthetic
various causes,
problems, cracks, warped These bars should still be good as soap.
temperature changes, bad
soap, mottled look, Rebatching is a good option for these bars
molds, poor recipe. etc
unwanted colors, etc..

25
Liquid Soaps in Blender

Liquid Soap 1
12 oz Palm Oil 4.1oz POTASSIUM hydroxide
6 oz coconut oil 8 ounces water
2 oz Evening primrose or grapeseed oil

Liquid Soap 2
12 ounces Soybean oil 2 ounces Avocado Oil
2 ounces Coconut Oil 3.4 ounces POTASSIUM hydroxide
2 ounces Palm Oil 7.2 ounces water

Soaps in Blender

Australian Emu Soap

5 ounces soybean oil 1 ounce emu oil
4 ounces palm oil 2.2 ounces weight sodium hydroxide
4 ounces coconut oil 7 fl ounces water

Canadian Winter Body Bar

8 oz Palm Kernel Oil 7 oz water
2 oz Shea Butter 1/8 teaspoon Lemon Yellow dry colorant
6 oz Sunflower Oil 1/2 teaspoon Lemon Fragrance Oil
2.1 oz Sodium Hydroxide 1/2 teaspoon Sandalwood Fragrance Oil

26
Cinnamon & Spice Oatmeal Soap
2 oz castor oil 7 ounces water
4 oz olive oil Add at trace:
2 oz wt sunflower oil 2 oz wt finely ground oatmeal was used
4 oz wt soybean oil as a filler
4 oz wt lard 1/2 teaspoon Ground Cinnamon
2.1 oz wt lye

Cocoa & Tallow Bar

6 oz. olive oil 2.1 oz lye
10 oz tallow 7 oz cold water
1 oz cocoa butter added at trace

Cucumber Body Bar

4 ounces Soybean Oil 4 ounces Palm Oil
4 ounces Olive Oil 1 ounce Shea Butter added at trace
4 ounces Coconut Oil 2.2 ounces of lye
7 ounces water mixed with 2 ounces of blended cucumber (peeled or unpeeled)
1/2 teaspoon cucumber eo or fo

Easy Coffee Soap

8 oz soybean oil 2.3 oz lye
4 oz Coconut Oil 7 ounces strong coffee in place of water
4 oz olive oil 1 tablespoon coffee added at trace

27
Easy Oatmeal Bar
8 oz palm 1/3 cup regular oatmeal well blended
6 oz coconut oil 2.4 oz lye
2 oz olive oil 6.4 oz water

Evening Primrose Paradise Bar

6 oz coconut oil 6 fl oz water
6 oz canola oil 2.3 oz lye
2 oz evening primrose 1 teaspoon lavender FO
2 oz almond oil

Fishermans Soap
8 ounces Canola Oil 2.2 ounces lye
4 ounces Coconut Oil 7 fluid ounces water
4 ounces olive oil 1 teaspoon Anise essential oil

Gentle Baby Soap

12 oz olive oil 7 oz water
2 oz sweet almond oil 2.1 oz lye
2 oz cocoa butter 1/2 oz avocado oil at thin trace
no scent or no more than 1/2 teaspoon of EO or FO

28
Gilligans Favorite
4 ounces coconut oil
4 ounces palm oil
8 ounces lard (preferably from a wild boar or Wal-Mart)
2.3 ounces lye
7 ounces water
1 teaspoon coconut essential oil or fragrance oil added at trace

Goats Milk Soap

4 ounces Coconut Oil 1 ounce sweet almond oil added at trace
6 ounces olive oil 2.2 ounces weight sodium hydroxide
6 ounces Palm Oil 7 fluid ounces goat milk

Kiwi and Melon - smells great!

6 oz coconut oil 6.4 oz water
8 oz palm 1/2 teaspoon kiwi FO or EO
2 oz olive oil 1/2 teaspoon watermelon FO or EO
2.4 oz lye

Luscious Lavender Baby Soap

2 oz. Coconut Oil 7 ounces water
6 oz. olive oil Add at trace:
4 oz. Palm Oil 1 oz. Shea Butter
4 oz. soybean oil 1 Tablespoon chamomile petals
2.2 oz. lye 1 teaspoon Lavender EO

29
Malaysian Silk Soap
10 ounces lard At trace, add:
4 ounces soybean oil 1 Tablespoon castor oil
1 ounces kukui nut oil 1 ounce shea butter
1 ounces macadamia nut oil 1 ounce mango butter
2.1 ounces lye 1 Teaspoon jasmine EO
7 ounces water with a teaspoon of Pink colorant to taste
shredded silk

Mechanics Dream Bar

8 ounces olive oil
4 ounces coconut oil
4 ounces palm oil
1 ounce of lanolin added at trace
1 teaspoon finely ground pumice added at trace
1/8 cup finely ground espresso added at trace
2.3 ounces lye
7 ounces water
1 teaspoon Sandalwood Fragrance oil

Ocean Voyagers Body Bar (lathers in Salt Water)

14 ounces of coconut oil 7 ounces water
2 ounces macadamia nut oil 1 teaspoon lavender essential oil
2.7 ounces lye

30
Orange Blossom Bar
4 ounces Olive Oil 7 ounces water
4 ounces Coconut Oil 2 ounces Sweet Orange Essential Oil
8 ounces Soybean Oil 1 teaspoon Ylang Ylang Essential Oil
2.3 ounces Lye 1/2 teaspoon finely ground chamomile

Quick Trace Pine Scent Bar

14 oz coconut oil
2 oz castor oil
2.7 oz lye
7 fluid oz water
1 teaspoon pine EO or FO added at thin trace
Blend this but don't let it reach a full trace. Pour into molds.

Rainwater Bar
8 oz Crisco 7 oz. cold rain water
8 oz Olive oil 1 teaspoon rain orchid fo
2.2 oz. Lye

Shea Butter Supreme

4 oz Coconut Oil 2.3 oz lye
6 oz Olive Oil 3 oz Goat Milk
6 oz Palm Oil 4 oz rainwater
1 oz Shea Butter

31
Springwater Shampoo Bar
4 oz coconut oil 2.3 oz lye
8 oz olive oil 7 oz spring water
4 oz castor oil 1 teaspoon Peach EO

Strawberry Shampoo Bar

6 oz. Coconut Oil 2.3 oz lye
6 oz. Olive Oil 7 oz water
2 oz Palm oil 1 teaspoon strawberry eo or fo
2 oz. Castor Oil

Tropical Paradise Bar

4 oz Coconut Oil 2.25 oz lye (sodium hydroxide)
4 oz Palm Oil 7 ounces water
8 oz Palm Kernel Oil 1 teaspoon Rose Fragrance Oil
1 oz Shea Butter 5 drops teaspoon Pink liquid colorant

Wintergreen Herbal Soap

4 oz. Palm Oil 2.3 oz. lye
4 oz. Coconut Oil 7 oz. Herbal Tea
8 oz. Olive Oil 1 teaspoon Wintergreen EO or FO

Ultimate Quick Trace Formula

14 oz coconut oil
2 oz castor oil
2.7 oz lye
7 fluid oz water
Blend this but don't let it reach a full trace. Pour into molds.

32
More Blender Soap Recipes

PROTECT YOURSELF: Always use rubber gloves and eye protection, along with
clothing that protects your arms, when working with lye. Lye will burn your skin. Always
use stainless steel, glass, plastic, or wood when stirring or mixing lye and soap. Never
use aluminum or tin tools or pans with lye. Oils & Fats can catch fire. It is important to
have a fire extinguisher ready. Keep Lye & Lye-Water away from children and pets.

Always use rubber gloves and eye protection when working with lye.

Canolive N Thyme
4 ounces Canola
2 ounces Coconut
4 ounces Olive Oil
14 ounces Crisco
3.19 ounces of lye (Lye Ratio equal to 5 this will be a NORMAL soap)
7.45 ounces of water
1 Tbsp Thyme (Add With Oils Before Lye )

Prepare the soap molds before starting. Heat oils in pot on stove long enough to melt.
*If adding herbs add to oil at this time or at trace. While the oils are melting mix lye
water by stirring the measured lye into the measured water. Make sure to add the lye to
the water and not vice versa.

Once oils are melted remove pot from heat and allow the oil to cool to between 100 and
125 degrees Fahrenheit. Allow lye water to cool to between 100 to 125 degrees
Fahrenheit. Once both the oils and the lye water have cooled to between 100 and 125
degrees Fahrenheit your may mix them in the blender.

33
Pour oil into blender first then add lye water. Blend on low speed for 10 to 20 seconds at
a time and stop to check for light trace. Just before light trace the mix will be in
appearance to a very runny milkshake. Now is the time to add coloring, scent, essential
oils, supper-fatting agents, etc. Continue to blend on low speed just until light trace is
achieved. This can happen in less than 1 minute on some recipes.

Pour into molds and allow the soap to set for 12 to 24 hours. Remove from molds and
allow curing for 3-4 weeks

Notes: A natural deodorant soap. A vitamin E capsule can also be added at trace for a
natural preservative.

Handmade Oatmeal Soaps

We have all seen the oatmeal soaps in the store that cost a fortune. Here's how to make
your own. you can also add other dried material such as cornmeal or pumice for varying
abrasive effects.

10oz palm
4oz coconut oil
2oz olive oil
1/4cup regular oatmeal, run through the blender
2oz lye
1 cup distilled water
optional scent

Mix lye and water and set aside to cool. Melt palm oil and coconut oil together and set
aside to cool. In a blender or food processor, mix the olive oil and oatmeal. When the
lye reaches 1000F and the fats are 1200F pour lye into fats and stir until it traces. Add
the oatmeal mixture, and stir until well mixed. pour the soap into the molds. Allow to sit
for 48 hours. Unmold and cut if needed. allow to age for 3 weeks.

34
Milky Soap
6 ounces Olive Oil
20 ounces Crisco
3.35 ounces of lye (Lye Ratio equal to 5 this will be a NORMAL soap)
7.82 ounces of MILK (Cows or Goats Milk)

Prepare the soap molds before starting. Heat oils in pot on stove long enough to melt.
*If adding herbs add to oil at this time or at trace. While the oils are melting mix lye
water by stirring the measured lye into the measured water. Make sure to add the lye to
the water and not vice versa.

Once oils are melted remove pot from heat and allow the oil to cool to between 100 and
125 degrees Fahrenheit. Allow lye water to cool to between 100 to 125 degrees
Fahrenheit. Once both the oils and the lye water have cooled to between 100 and 125
degrees Fahrenheit your may mix them in the blender.

Pour oil into blender first then add lye water. Blend on low speed for 10 to 20 seconds at
a time and stop to check for light trace. Just before light trace the mix will be in
appearance to a very runny milkshake. Now is the time to add coloring, scent, essential
oils, supper-fatting agents, etc. Continue to blend on low speed just until light trace is
achieved. This can happen in less than 1 minute on some recipes.

Pour into molds and allow the soap to set for 12 to 24 hours. Remove from molds and
allow curing for 3-4 weeks

Notes: MILK EITHER GOATS OR COWS - DO NOT USE CONDENSED MILK IN THIS
RECIPE. This soap will have a cocoa butter fragrance naturally with no fragrance oil
added.

TIPS: Try substituting a few ounces of palm kernel oil or lanolin in place of the olive oil.

35
Peppermint Soap
2 ounces Apricot Kernel Oil
3 ounces Coconut
2 ounces Olive Oil
18 ounces Crisco
3.36 ounces of lye (Lye Ratio equal to 5 this will be a NORMAL soap)
7.85 ounces of water
1 peppermint teabag (add with oils)

Prepare the soap molds before starting. Heat oils in pot on stove long enough to melt.
*If adding herbs add to oil at this time or at trace. While the oils are melting mix lye
water by stirring the measured lye into the measured water. Make sure to add the lye to
the water and not vice versa.

Once oils are melted remove pot from heat and allow the oil to cool to between 100 and
125 degrees Fahrenheit. Allow lye water to cool to between 100 to 125 degrees
Fahrenheit. Once both the oils and the lye water have cooled to between 100 and 125
degrees Fahrenheit your may mix them in the blender.

Pour oil into blender first then add lye water. Blend on low speed for 10 to 20 seconds at
a time and stop to check for light trace. Just before light trace the mix will be in
appearance to a very runny milkshake. Now is the time to add coloring, scent, essential
oils, supper-fatting agents, etc. Continue to blend on low speed just until light trace is
achieved. This can happen in less than 1 minute on some recipes.

Pour into molds and allow the soap to set for 12 to 24 hours. Remove from molds and
allow curing for 3-4 weeks

Notes: Adding only 1 peppermint teabag will not produce a peppermint fragrance. The
soap will have the herbal qualities of peppermint but will not have the peppermint
fragrance. Suggest adding Peppermint Essential Oil. Texture of this soap is great. This
soap will trace quickly in blender. This would also make a fine cold process recipe.

36
Pure Soap Mink Oil Shampoo
16 oz weight coconut oil
1/2 cup mink oil or (4 T. Castor oil)
2.9 oz lye
1 cup water (8 fluid oz.)
Oil room temperature. Mix and use lye when the water turns clear. Put all ingredients in
the blender.

Follow the instructions for "Blender Soap" Don't let this soap trace. Process until the
mixture is smooth (no oil streaks) and pour it into molds. Leave in molds 2 days Freeze
soap 3 hours to release it from the molds. Age 3 weeks.

Soap III
6 oz coconut oil
6 oz olive oil
5 oz vegetable shortening
2.6 oz lye
1 cup water (8 fluid ounces)

Fat and lye/water temperature about 120 degrees F Time in molds: 48 hours Age: 4
weeks

37
Vegetable Soap
5.3 oz. coconut oil
3.2 oz. palm
7.5 oz. olive oil
2.4 oz. lye
6 oz. water
.5 to .7 oz. of fragrance or essential oil
Oil temp: 1100F
Lye/water temp: 1100F

Follow basic soapmaking directions to prepare lye solution and oils. Pour oils into
blender. Put lid on blender and turn on to a low mix. Take lid off and into the well of oil,
pour the lye/water solution carefully. Avoid splashes...remember this is very caustic. Put
lid back on blender and allow to blend for 2-3 minutes. Stop and check for trace. When
it is a very thin trace, add the essential oil and blend again for a few minutes. Pour into
mold. Cover with plastic wrap and towel and let set undisturbed for 24 hours. Plastic
wrap should touch the top of the soap. Don't worry. It will peel off.

38
 Table of Weights and Measures

Household Measures

Less than 1 teaspoon = a few grains

U.S.
1 teaspoon = 1 dram
1 dessert spoon = 2 drams
1 tablespoon = 3 teaspoons
1 tablespoon ~ 4 drams
1 ounce = 2 tablespoons
1 cup = 7 ounces
1 cup = 8 fluid ounces
1 fruit jar ~ 1 pint
1 pint = 2 cups
1 quart = 2 pints
Apothecary
1 gallon = 4 quarts
1 minim = 0.06 milliliters
Avoirdupois
1 fluid dram ~ 60 minims
(approximately 1 teaspoon) 1 fluid dram ~1/8
1 grain = 0.0648 grams
fluid ounce
1 dram = 27.3437 grains (1.7718 grams)
1 ounce = 16 drams (28.3495 grams)
Simplified Weight and Measure
1 pound = 16 ounces (453.5924 grams)
Equivalents
1 hundredweight = 100 lb (45.3592 kg)
1 short ton = 2000 lb (907.18 kg or 0.9072 metric
The following estimated equivalents have
ton)
been provided for your use. The adjusted
amounts are simplified in measuring quantity
Metric
& dilution ratios.
1 milliliter = 0.034 fluid ounces
cc = ml
1 centiliter = 0.34 fluid ounces
1 cc = 20 drops
1 deciliter = 3.38 fluid ounces
5 cc = 1 teaspoon = 100 drops
1 liter = 1.06 quarts
15 cc = 1 tablespoon = 200 drops
1 dekaliter = 2.64 gallons
30 cc = 1 ounce = 2 tablespoons = 600 drops
Household Measures
eyedropper holds approx 10 drops
1 full eyedropper holds approx 20 drops
Less than 1 teaspoon = a few grains
1-ounce bottle = 30 cc = 2 tablespoons = 600
1 teaspoon = 1 dram
drops
1 dessert spoon = 2 drams
2-ounce bottle = 60 cc = 4 tablespoons =
1 tablespoon ~ 4 drams
1200 drops
1 cup = 7 ounces
4-ounce bottle = 120 cc = cup = 8
1 fruit jar ~ 1 pint
tablespoons = 2400 drops
8-ounce bottle = 240 cc = 1 cup = 16
tablespoons = 3600 drops

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 Household Shopping List

Circle what you need, cross out as you shop

*FOOD* *KITCHEN* *BATHOOM* *LAUNDRY*

Milk Detergent Toilet tissue Detergent
Eggs Sponge/scrub Kleenex Bleach
Bread Wipes Handsoap Fabric softener
Butter Scour powder Body wash Spray starch
Fruit Spray cleaner Body scrub ____________
Vegetables Spray wax Face scrub ____________
Meat Floor cleaner Toothpaste *MISC*
Fish Disinfectant Mouthwash Baby items
Soup/broth Window cleaner Floss Vitamins
Dessert Mop/broom Toothbrush Medicine
Cereal ____________ Deodorant Vacuum bags
Potatoes ____________ Powder Lottery tickets
Rice/beans Paper towels Body spray Film
Pasta Napkins Hand cream Potpourri
Sauces Clear wrap Face cream Candles
Dressings Foil wrap Shampoo Stamps
Baby food Wax paper Conditioner Cards/gifts
Coffee Sandwich bag Hairspray Batteries
Tea Garbage bags Brush/comb Lite bulbs
Frozen food ____________ Shave cream ____________
Ice cream ____________ Razor/blades ____________
Cake mix Sugar Antiseptic ____________
Cookie mix Flour Band-Aids ____________
Munchies Salt/Pepper Q-tips ____________
Coffee filter Spices Personals ____________
Pet food ____________ Air freshener ____________
____________ ____________ ____________ ____________
____________ ____________ ____________ ____________
____________ ____________ ____________ ____________

Worse than having to go shopping is FORGETTING SOMETHING !

47