Textiles
.Intelligence
Textiles
No 178
March-April 2005
Published January 2016
Textiles Intelligence
Textile Outlook International
ISSN 0268-4764
No 178
Published January 2016
Contents
4 Editorial: Heimtextil 2016 shows the latest home textiles and hosts a digital textile printing
conference for the third year running
4 Another year of increases in visitor and exhibitor numbers provides scope for continued optimism
5 One of the most international textile fairs
6 Focus on the hospitality sector
6 The Heimtextil Theme Park
8 European Digital Textile Conference 2016
14 World textile and apparel trade and production trends: Egypt, Morocco, Tunisia and Turkey
14 Summary
14 Egypt
18 Morocco
22 Tunisia
26 Turkey
32 Survey of the European fabric fairs for autumn/winter 2016/17
32 Summary
32 Fabric fairs
43 Fabric trends
62 Trends in world textile and clothing trade
62 Summary
62 Growth in textile and clothing trade
71 Textile and clothing trade deficits and surpluses
81 Leading textile and clothing exporters and importers
99 Statistical appendix
116 Trends in global and regional man-made fibre production
116 Summary
116 Introduction
118 Synthetic fibre production
125 Cellulosic fibre production
128 Man-made fibre production capacity forecasts
130 Outlook
132 World markets for textile machinery: part 2fabric manufacture
132 Summary
132 General trends
140 Weaving machinery
152 Circular knitting machinery
167 Flat knitting machinery
181 Statistical appendix
183 Glossary
211 Index to Textile Outlook International
Textiles Intelligence
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2016 Textiles Intelligence Limited. Formerly published by The Economist Intelligence Unit.
Textile Outlook International, No 178 January 2016 Editorial
digital print;
floor coverings;
furniture and decorative fabrics;
household textiles and products, comprising bath linen, bedding
products and bed linen, and table linen;
wallpapers and wall coverings; and
window coverings and sun protection.
Heimtextil, given its size and the fact that it is one of the first textile
industry events in the calendar, serves as an early indicator of the
industrys health.
This being the case, the signs for 2016 appear positive if visitor and
exhibitor numbers are anything to go by.
The organisers of Heimtextil were proud to note that the 69,000 visitors
who attended the fair in January 2016 came from almost 130 countries.
This high figure serves to reinforce Heimtextils reputation as one of the
most international textile fairs in the calendar.
The Heimtextil Theme Park took place at Heimtextil for the second time
in 2016 following its launch in 2015. Prior to 2015, the Heimtextil
Theme Park was known as the Heimtextil Trend Show.
The 2016 Heimtextil Theme Park was a feast for the senses and featured
some 2,000 materials from Heimtextil exhibitors. Visitors were led into
the Heimtextil Theme Park by a walkway marked by petal shaped
display boards. Each display board was covered with fabrics, inviting
1
The report can be found by visiting: http://bit.ly/hospitalityreport.
visitors to touch and feel the materials as they made their way to the
main exhibition space where the theme and trends for 2016/17 were
presented.
The number 4.0 in the name of the theme is derived from Industry
4.0a term used to describe the fourth industrial revolution and the
promotion of computerisation in manufacturing. Within the theme, the
number 4.0 is a reference to the constant connection to technology
experienced in day-to-day life, as well as the use of technology to
enhance well-being.
The four design trends for 2016/17 under the theme are:
Protect;
Energise;
Nourish; and
Enrich.
The Energise trend explores the digital world, technology and light.
Associated colours include bright and almost fluorescent colours which
are used to contrast with deep shades of blue. Materials associated with
the trend are patterned and incorporate dynamic shapes. The Energise
trend was presented within a cocoon called Technology, which
featured geometric shaped fabric panels arranged in a kaleidoscope
structure.
RETAIL
Also within the Heimtextil Theme Park was a cocoon called Retail.
Within this exhibition space, concepts for the retail spaces of the future
were presented. The aim of the Retail cocoon was to emphasise the
importance of personalised retail experiences, and the need to cater to
a variety of consumer needs and tastes within the retail space.
In total, there were 22 exhibitors in the digital print section at the 2016
edition of Heimtextilincluding providers of digital print machinery,
digital printer accessories and digital print software. This number
represented an impressive increase of 38% compared with the 16
companies who exhibited in the digital print section at the 2015 edition
of the fair. Furthermore, according to Messe Frankfurt, it is expected
that this number will continue to grow in future editions of Heimtextil.
Key factors affecting the digital print market were discussed in detail at
the European Digital Textile Conference 2016, which was staged in a
meeting at Heimtextil on January 12, 2016. The conference was
organised and hosted by the UK-based company WTiN (World Textile
Information Network).
It has long been established that the biggest end use for digitally printed
fabric is that of signage, banners and display graphics applications,
followed by fashion apparel applications. According to estimates by
John Provosta technical editor of Digital Textile magazine and a
consultant with Provost Ink Jet Consulting based in the UK42% of
digitally printed fabric is used in sportswear, signage and banners
prepared by dye sublimation transfer, 40% in fashion apparel
applications, 10% in signage prepared by direct to fabric disperse dye
sublimation and 8% in home textiles.
The scope for the digital print sector is huge. According to Dr Provost,
the share of digital printing in the textile printing market is a mere 3.5%
compared with 65% in the case of rotary screen printing, 25% in the
case of automatic flat screen printing and 3% each in the cases of hand
screen printing and dye sublimation transfer printing. Copper roller
printing accounts for the remaining 0.5%.
DEVELOPMENTS IN INKS
Within the digital print sector, there is much deliberation over the
optimum ink system for the digital printing of home textiles2. In
particular, there is a continuing debate over the advantages of pigment
inks over reactive dye inks.
This is because the pigment printing method uses a binder system which
fixes pigment particles to the surface of the substrate whereas dyeing
involves the fixing of particles within the fibre structure.
2
See also Editorial: Heimtextil goes from strength to strength and hosts a digital textile printing conference for
the second year running, Textile Outlook International, No 173, February 2015.
3
DyStar, based in Singapore, is a provider of dyes and chemicals for the textile industry.
Also, it is thought that the use of pigment printing could help to create
more manageable supply chains. This is because the use of pigment
printing would eliminate the need to employ a variety of digital printers
who use specific dye-based inks for fabrics of specific fibre
compositions.
However, fabrics printed with pigment inks are known to have a harsher
fabric handle compared with fabrics printed using dye-based inks.
Also, they are said to have a lower level of fastness to washing and
rubbing compared with fabrics printed using reactive inks.
In addition, the colour strength and colour gamut of pigment inks are
inferior to those of reactive inks.
MARKET DEMANDS
Several presenters at the conference stressed the important role that
digital printing plays in meeting the needs of consumers. One
demographic group of particular interest is that of millennials4, whose
spending power is set to increase rapidly in the near future.
ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY
The importance of environmental sustainability was widely emphasised
by exhibitors at Heimtextil, and the topic was also of much interest
within the digital textile printing conference.
4
Millennialsalso known as the Millennial Generation or Generation Yform a demographic group whose
members were born in a period ranging from the early 1980s to the early 2000s.
OUTLOOK
The digital printing sector is evolving rapidly as extensive
investments are being made in the development of new inks and new
machinery.
Robin Anson
Editorial Director, Textile Outlook International
January 22, 2016
Egyptian textile and clothing exports fell by 2.7% in 2014, and during January-June 2015 they were down
by 6.5% compared with the corresponding period of the previous year. The fall in 2014 reflected declines in
exports to most foreign markets during the year, although there were increases in exports to Algeria, Brazil,
the EU, Morocco, Switzerland, Tunisia, the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and the USA. Also, production in
the year ending June 30, 2014, was up in all the major textile and clothing categories.
In Morocco, clothing exports increased by 4.8% in 2014, and during January-September 2015 they were up
by 5.8% compared with the corresponding period of the previous year. The increases were reflected in growth
in sales of Moroccan clothing in the EU import market, which was 10.2% in 2014 and 1.9% during
January-June 2015. Sales in the US import market also increased in 2014, by 17.5%, but during
January-November 2015 they were down by 10.5%. Meanwhile, production of clothing in Morocco increased
by 1.6% in 2014 but during January-June 2015 it was down by 0.9%.
In Tunisia, textile and clothing exports grew by 3.3% in 2014 but during January-October 2015 they were
down by 7.4% compared with the corresponding period of the previous year. These trends were reflected in
sales of Tunisian clothing in the EU import marketby far Tunisias largest marketwhich increased by
1.0% in 2014 but were down by 3.5% during January-June 2015. Production by Tunisian textile, clothing,
footwear and leather manufacturers, meanwhile, grew by 1.3% in 2014 and during January-June 2015 it was
up by 5.7%.
In Turkey, textile and clothing exports rose by 6.0% in 2014. During January-October 2015, however, exports
were down by 10.9% compared with the corresponding period of the previous yearalthough the fall was
due partly to the depreciation of the Turkish lira against the US dollar. Textile production followed a similar
trend, having increased by 1.1% in 2014 but declined by 4.9% during January-October 2015. Clothing
production, however, increased by 0.1% in 2014 and was up by 2.6% during January-October 2015.
EGYPT
EXPORTS
Egyptian textile and Egyptian textile and clothing exports fell by 2.7% in 2014, from
clothing exports fell in US$3,098 mn to US$3,014 mn. The fall represented the second in three
2014 for the second time in years, having followed a 6.5% increase in 2013 and a 15.4% decline in
three years, by 2.7%, and 2012.
during January-June 2015
they were down by 6.5% Furthermore, during January-June 2015, exports were down by 6.5%
compared with the corresponding period a year earlier, to US$1,431 mn.
Between 2007 and 2011 Prior to 2012, Egyptian textile and clothing exports had grown
exports surged by 427.1% vigorously. Indeed, between 2007 and 2011 they surged by 427.1%,
from US$652 mn to US$3,437 mn.
During July 2014-June A breakdown of Egypts textile and clothing exports during the
2015, exports were up in countrys 2014/15 financial year (July 2014-June 2015), based on trade
the case of ready-made data issued by the Central Bank of Egypt, shows that exports of ready-
clothing made clothing were up by 4.6% compared with 2013/14, from
US$774.3 mn to US$810.3 mn.
and carpets and other Exports were also up in the case of carpets and other textile floor
textile floor coverings coverings (up by 1.3%, from US$190.6 mn to US$193.1 mn).
But there were declines in On the other hand, there were declines in exports of raw cotton (down
exports of raw cotton, by 49.3%, from US$83.8 mn to US$42.5 mn), synthetic fibres (down by
synthetic fibres, cotton 34.2%, from US$150.8 mn to US$99.3 mn), cotton yarn (down by
yarn and cotton textiles 30.2%, from US$142.9 mn to US$99.7 mn) and cotton textiles (down
by 3.3%, from US$761.1 mn to US$736.0 mn).
EXPORT MARKETS
The largest market for The largest market for Egyptian textile and clothing exports in 2014 was
Egyptian textile and the EU with a 37.7% share of exports to all destinations. This was up
clothing exports in 2014 from 35.6% in 2013 and 36.2% in 2012.
was the EU with a 37.7%
share followed by the USA The second largest market was the USA with a 29.8% share, down from
with a 29.8% share 32.5% in 2013 and 35.9% in 2012.
The third largest market The third largest market was Turkey with a 13.0% share (down from
was Turkey, followed by 13.1% in 2013), followed by Saudi Arabia with a 2.4% share
Saudi Arabia, India, (unchanged from 2013).
Canada, China, Pakistan,
Libya, the United Arab Other important markets for Egyptian textile and clothing exports in
Emirates (UAE) and 2014 were India (with a 1.3% share), Canada (with a 1.1% share), China
Morocco (with a 1.1% share), Pakistan (with a 0.8% share), Libya (with a 0.8%
share), the United Arab Emirates (UAE) (with a 0.8% share) and
Morocco (with a 0.7% share).
Sales of textiles rose by 9.0% Within these totals, sales of textiles rose by 9.0% to Euro485.2 mn and
and sales of clothing by 1.9% sales of clothing increased by 1.9% to Euro391.3 mn.
Among Egypts best Egypts best performing textile and clothing product categories in the
performing textile and EU import market in terms of sales growth in 2014 included wadding,
clothing product categories felts, nonwoven fabrics and other textile products classified under
in the EU import market HS Chapter 56 (up by 451.9% to Euro14.3 mn), fabrics impregnated,
in 2014, sales of textile coated, covered or laminated with plastics (up by 256.0% to
products classified under Euro0.2 mn), special woven fabrics and other textile articles classified
HS Chapter 56 were up by under HS Chapter 58 (up by 98.7% to Euro1.1 mn) and knitted fabric
451.9% (up by 55.7% to Euro13.4 mn).
There were also increases There were also increases in sales of products in most major textile and
in sales of most major clothing product categories, including made-up textiles (up by 8.1% to
textile and clothing Euro132.9 mn), carpets and other textile floor coverings (up by 6.5% to
product categories Euro125.1 mn), cotton fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (up by 5.5% to
Euro145.8 mn), wool fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (up by 4.9% to
Euro33.4 mn), non-cotton vegetable fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (up
by 2.9% to Euro7.5 mn), knitted clothing (up by 2.0% to Euro193.3 mn)
and woven clothing (up by 1.8% to Euro198.0 mn).
By contrast, there were By contrast, the worst performing product categories included
declines in sales of man-made man-made staple fibres, yarns and woven fabrics classified under
staple fibres, yarns and woven HS Chapter 55 (down by 31.0% to Euro9.3 mn) and man-made filament
fabrics and man-made fila- yarns and woven fabrics classified under HS Chapter 54 (down by 8.0%
ment yarns and woven fabrics to Euro2.2 mn).
During January-June 2015, During January-June 2015, sales of Egyptian textiles and clothing in the
textile and clothing sales EU import market were up by 1.7% compared with the corresponding
were up by 1.7% period a year earlier, to Euro461.3 mn.
due to a 4.3% increase Within this total, sales of textiles fell by 0.2% to Euro255.5 mn but
in sales of clothing sales of clothing increased by 4.3% to Euro205.8 mn.
Among Egypts best Egypts best performing textile product categories in terms of sales
performing textile product growth during January-June 2015 included wadding, felts, nonwoven
categories during January- fabrics and other textile products classified under HS Chapter 56 (up by
June 2015, sales of 107.4% to Euro11.1 mn), special woven fabrics and other textile articles
products classified under classified under HS Chapter 58 (up by 43.6% to Euro0.6 mn), fabrics
HS Chapter 56 were up by impregnated, coated, covered or laminated with plastics (up by 33.0%
107.4% to Euro0.1 mn) and non-cotton vegetable fibres, yarns and woven
fabrics (up by 22.5% to Euro4.6 mn).
Among the worst By contrast, there were sharp declines in sales of man-made filament
performing textile product yarns and woven fabrics classified under HS Chapter 54 (down by
categories, sales of carpets 39.3% to Euro0.7 mn), man-made staple fibres, staple fibre yarns and
and other textile floor woven fabrics classified under HS Chapter 55 (down by 26.9% to
coverings were down by Euro3.5 mn) and carpets and other textile floor coverings (down by
22.3% 22.3% to Euro47.0 mn).
Textile sales fell by 6.0% but Within these totals, sales of textiles fell by 6.0% to US$181.7 mn but
clothing sales rose by 2.5% sales of clothing increased by 2.5% to US$824.0 mn.
The increase in sales of The increase in sales of clothing was due to large gains in sales of man-
clothing was due to large made fibre clothing and wool clothing. Sales of man-made fibre
gains in sales of man-made clothing increased by 28.6% to US$373.8 mn while sales of wool
fibre clothing and wool clothing grew by 22.5% to US$33.4 mn. Within these categories,
clothing demand was particularly robust for mens and boys wool suits (up by
140.2% to US$11.0 mn), mens and boys man-made fibre knitted shirts
(up by 64.7% to US$120.6 mn) and mens and boys man-made fibre
non-suit type coats (up by 40.6% to US$9.7 mn).
By contrast, sales of By contrast, sales of cotton clothing fell by 14.4% to US$415.9 mn. The
cotton clothing declined fall was due primarily to declines in sales of mens and boys cotton
by 14.4% suit-type coats (down by 70.2% to US$0.6 mn), womens and girls
cotton knitted shirts and blouses (down by 41.6% to US$15.0 mn),
cotton underwear (down by 40.3% to US$9.9 mn) and womens and
girls cotton trousers (down by 21.1% to US$142.3 mn).
Among the best In textiles, Egypts best performing product categories in the US import
performing textile market in terms of sales growth included non-textured filament yarn (up
product categories, sales by 422.1% to US$0.4 mn), special fabric (up by 40.5% to US$1.6 mn),
of non-textured filament combed cotton yarn (up by 26.2% to US$4.4 mn), floor coverings made
yarn were up by 422.1% from wool (up by 23.1% to US$6.7 mn) and miscellaneous cotton
manufactured products (up by 18.8% to US$5.4 mn).
Among the worst performing By contrast, Egypts worst performing textile product categories
categories, sales of miscella- included miscellaneous man-made fibre furnishings (down by 57.0% to
neous man-made fibre fur- US$6.5 mn), carded cotton yarn (down by 45.7% to US$0.3 mn) and
nishings were down by 57.0% cotton bed sheets (down by 16.9% to US$3.8 mn).
During January-November During January-November 2015, sales of Egyptian textiles and clothing
2015, textile and clothing in the US import market were up by 2.8% compared with the
sales were up by 2.8% corresponding period a year earlier, to US$945.8 mn.
Textile sales were more or Within this total, sales of textiles were more or less unchanged at
less unchanged but clothing US$164.3 mn. However, sales of clothing were up by 3.4% to
sales were up by 3.4% US$781.5 mn.
Among the best performing Egypts best performing textile and clothing product categories in the
textile and clothing categories US import market during January-November 2015 included mens and
in the USA during January- boys cotton non-suit type coats (up by 436.1% to US$2.2 mn), cotton
November 2015, sales of mens skirts (up by 178.2% to US$4.6 mn), womens and girls man-made
and boys cotton non-suit type fibre trousers (up by 62.6% to US$57.8 mn) and man-made fibre
coats were up by 436.1% underwear (up by 50.7% to US$34.6 mn).
Among the worst By contrast, there were sharp declines in sales of cotton underwear
performing product (down by 47.4% to US$5.0 mn), combed cotton yarn (down by 42.7%
categories, sales of cotton to US$2.4 mn), mens and boys cotton woven shirts (down by 39.8%
underwear were down by to US$12.6 mn) and floor coverings made from wool (down by 26.2%
47.4% to US$4.7 mn).
In fact, exports to In fact, exports to China and India were each down for a fourth
China and India were consecutive year.
each down for a fourth
consecutive year Exports to China declined by 30.3%, from US$45.4 mn to US$31.7 mn,
after falling by 19.9% in 2013, 33.9% in 2012 and 2.0% in 2011, while
exports to India fell by 41.7% from US$68.2 mn to US$39.8 mn,
following declines of 6.0% in 2013, 18.2% in 2012 and 30.6% in 2011.
Elsewhere, there were There were also declines in exports to Pakistan (down by 33.0% to
declines in exports to US$25.1 mn), Sudan (down by 26.8% to US$17.4 mn), Libya (down by
Pakistan, Sudan, Libya, 23.8% to US$24.3 mn), Jordan (down by 12.7% to US$11.7 mn),
Jordan, Canada, Saudi Canada (down by 5.3% to US$33.8 mn), Saudi Arabia (down by 4.3%
Arabia and Turkey to US$71.6 mn) and Turkey (down by 3.4% to US$391.5 mn).
By contrast, there were By contrast, there were increases in exports to a number of other
increases in exports to a countries, including Tunisia (up by 118.4% to US$18.8 mn), Algeria
number of other countries, (up by 29.1% to US$18.1 mn), Brazil (up by 25.7% to US$17.7 mn),
including Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco (up by 23.2% to US$21.7 mn), Switzerland (up by 12.5% to
Brazil, Morocco, US$18.5 mn) and the UAE (up by 10.3% to US$24.6 mn).
Switzerland and the UAE
PRODUCTION
In the year ending June 30, Production data for the financial year ending June 30, 2014the latest
2014, there were increases year for which data are availableshow increases in output of all the
in output of all the major major textile and clothing products.
textile and clothing
products Output increased in the case of wool yarn (up by 6.9% to 38,500 tons),
ready-made clothing (up by 2.5% to 440.7 mn pieces), cotton yarn (up
by 2.5% to 344,300 tons), synthetic fibres (up by 2.5% to 116,800 tons),
silk yarn (up by 2.2% to 37,500 tons) and blankets (up by 2.1% to
24.5 mn pieces).
MOROCCO
EXPORTS
Clothing accounted for Clothing accounted for 13.7% of Moroccos total exports in 2014 and
13.7% of Moroccos total for 47.4% of the countrys exports of consumer goods.
exports in 2014 although
this share was down from However, these shares were down from 14.2% and 55.7% respectively
14.2% in 2013 in 2013.
Moroccan clothing exports In 2014 Moroccan clothing exports grew by 4.8%, from Dh26,281 mn
grew by 4.8% in 2014 to Dh27,530 mn (US$3,273 mn), following a 3.9% drop in 2013.
Exports of knitted clothing Within these totals, exports of knitted clothing grew by 1.7%, from
grew by 1.7% and exports Dh7,253 mn to Dh7,379 mnfollowing a 10.9% fall in 2013while
of woven clothing by 5.9% exports of woven clothing grew by 5.9%, from Dh19,028 mn to
Dh20,151 mn, after falling by 0.9% in 2013.
Exports of knitted clothing Within this total, exports of knitted clothing were up by 26.5% to
were up by 26.5% but Dh6,958 mn but exports of woven clothing were down by 1.5% to
exports of woven clothing Dh15,375 mn.
were down by 1.5%
EXPORT MARKETS
Exports from Morocco to the EU
The EU is by far the largest The EU is by far the largest market for Moroccos textile and clothing
market for Moroccos exports.
textile and clothing exports
and sales in the EU import Furthermore, sales of Moroccan textiles and clothing in the EU import
market grew by 10.2% in market grew by 10.2% in 2014, from Euro2,268.7 mn to
2014 Euro2,499.1 mn (US$3,320.7 mn), according to EU import data.
Textile sales rose by 10.5% Within these totals, sales of textiles rose by 10.5% to Euro189.5 mn and
and clothing sales by 10.1% sales of clothing grew by 10.1% to Euro2,309.5 mn.
Morocco accounted for 2.5% Morocco accounted for a 2.5% share of EU textile and clothing
of EU textile and clothing im- imports from all sources in 2014. This share was unchanged from a year
ports from all sources in 2014 earlier.
It accounted for 0.7% of In textiles alone, Morocco accounted for a 0.7% share of EU textile
EU textile imports from imports from all sources, which was unchanged from 2013.
all sources and for 3.1%
of EU clothing imports In the case of clothing, Morocco accounted for a 3.1% share of EU
from all sources clothing imports from all sources (also unchanged from 2013).
Moroccos most Moroccos most important product category in the EU import market in
important product 2014 was woven clothing. In fact, woven clothing accounted for an
category in the EU import overwhelming 65.1% of Moroccan textile and clothing sales in the EU
market in 2014 was woven import market during the year.
clothing with a 65.1%
share of Moroccos total Furthermore, this share was up from 64.5% in 2013 as sales of
textile and clothing Moroccan woven clothing in the EU import market grew by 11.2% in
sales 2014, from Euro1,462.3 mn to Euro1,626.1 mn.
followed by knitted Moroccos second most important product category in the EU import
clothing with a 27.3% market was knitted clothing with a 27.3% share. However, this share
share was down from 28.0% in the previous year despite a 7.6% increase in
sales, from Euro634.9 mn to Euro683.4 mn.
and made-up textiles Moroccos third most important product category in the EU import
with a 4.8% share market was that of made-up textiles with a 4.8% share. This share was
up from 4.2% in 2013 as sales increased by 26.2% in 2014, from
Euro94.5 mn to Euro119.3 mn.
Among Moroccos best Moroccos best performing textile product categories in the EU import
performing textile market in terms of sales growth in 2014 included non-cotton vegetable
product categories in the fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (up by 28.0% to Euro0.5 mn), special
EU import market in woven fabrics and other textile articles classified under HS Chapter 58
2014, sales of non-cotton (up by 24.8% to Euro8.6 mn), man-made filament yarns and woven
vegetable fibres, yarns fabrics classified under HS Chapter 54 (up by 22.7% to Euro14.7 mn),
and woven fabrics were wadding, felts, nonwoven fabrics and other textile products classified
up by 28.0% under HS Chapter 56 (up by 19.0% to Euro3.8 mn) and man-made
staple fibres, staple fibre yarns and woven fabrics classified under
HS Chapter 55 (up by 11.0% to Euro16.4 mn).
On the other hand, sales On the other hand, there were sharp declines in sales of cotton fibres,
of cotton fibres, yarns and yarns and woven fabrics (down by 82.8% to Euro2.8 mn) and fabrics
woven fabrics were down impregnated, coated, covered or laminated with plastics (down by
by 82.8% 42.8% to Euro1.4 mn).
During January-June 2015, During January-June 2015, sales of Moroccan textiles and clothing in
sales of Moroccan textiles the EU import market were modestly higher, having increased by 1.9%
and clothing in the EU compared with the corresponding period of the previous year, to
import market rose by 1.9% Euro1,320.7 mn.
Textile sales were up by 17.4% Within this total, sales of textiles were up by 17.4% to Euro117.8 mn
and clothing sales by 0.6% while sales of clothing were up by 0.6% to Euro1,202.9 mn.
Woven clothing sales were up The rise in clothing sales was due entirely to a 2.5% increase in sales of
by 2.5% but knitted clothing woven clothing, to Euro870.3 mn. Sales of knitted clothing, by contrast,
sales were down by 4.0% were down by 4.0% to Euro332.6 mn.
Among Moroccos best In the case of textiles, Moroccos best performing product categories in
performing textile the EU import market in terms of sales growth during January-June
product categories in the 2015 included fabrics impregnated, coated, covered or laminated with
EU import market during plastics (up by 204.3% to Euro1.2 mn), cotton fibres, yarns and woven
January-June 2015, sales fabrics (up by 84.6% to Euro2.8 mn), carpets and other textile floor
of made-up textiles were coverings (up by 32.7% to Euro5.4 mn) and made-up textiles (up by
up by 29.5% 29.5% to Euro79.2 mn).
Among the worst By contrast, there were sharp declines in sales of non-cotton vegetable
performing product fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (down by 46.0% to Euro0.2 mn), knitted
categories, sales of fabric (down by 28.4% to Euro3.2 mn), man-made filament yarns and
knitted fabric were woven fabrics classified under HS Chapter 54 (down by 16.4% to
down by 28.4% Euro7.3 mn) and special woven fabrics and other textile articles
classified under HS Chapter 58 (down by 13.3% to Euro4.5 mn).
and yet they Despite this agreement, sales of Moroccan textiles and clothing in the
represented only 0.1% USA are still modest. In 2014 they were valued at US$138.2 mn,
of total US textile and according to US import data, which represented a mere 0.1% of US
clothing imports in 2014 textile and clothing imports from all sources during the year.
But between 2009 and Nonetheless, sales in the US import market are growing briskly and
2014 Morocco was one Moroccan exporters have been increasing their market share
of the USAs fastest steadilyparticularly between 2009 and 2014. In fact, Morocco was
growing suppliers of one of the fastest growing suppliers of textiles and clothing to the USA
textiles and clothing during this period.
In 2014 sales of In 2014 sales of Moroccan textiles and clothing in the US import market
Moroccan textiles and advanced by 17.5%.
clothing in the US
import market This followed increases of 11.8% in 2013, 25.0% in 2012, 32.7% in
advanced by 17.5% 2011 and 8.5% in 2010.
During January- During January-November 2015, however, sales were down by 10.5%
November 2015, however, compared with the corresponding period a year earlier, to
sales were down by 10.5% US$115.8 mn.
Sales of textiles rose by 8.8% In textiles alone, sales of Moroccan products in the US import market
in 2014 and were up by 26.9% increased by 8.8% to US$3.9 mn in 2014 and were up by 26.9% to
during January-November US$4.3 mn during January-November 2015.
2015 while sales of clothing
rose by 17.8% in 2014 but In the case of clothing, sales of Moroccan products in the US import
were down by 11.5% during market rose by 17.8% to US$134.3 mn in 2014 but during January-
January-November 2015 November 2015 they were down by 11.5% to US$111.5 mn.
Within the overall total for Within the overall total for clothing, sales of Moroccan man-made fibre
clothing, sales rose in 2014 clothing in the US import market rose by 23.7% to US$76.6 mn in 2014
but were down during but during January-November 2015 they were down by 5.6% to
January-November 2015 in US$67.8 mn.
the case of man-made fibre
clothing, wool clothing Sales of Moroccan wool clothing, meanwhile, increased by 19.3% to
US$7.9 mn in 2014 but during January-November 2015 they were down
by 8.7% to US$6.3 mn.
and cotton clothing Sales of cotton clothing were also upbeat in 2014, having increased by
9.2% to US$47.4 mn. During January-November 2015, however, they
were down by a sharp 21.7% to US$35.1 mn.
Moroccos best performing Moroccos best performing clothing product categories in the US import
clothing product categories market in terms of sales growth in 2014 and during January-November
in the US import market in 2015 included womens and girls man-made fibre knitted shirts and
2014 and in January- blouses (up by 75.6% to US$6.1 mn in 2014 and 67.2% to US$7.9 mn
November 2015 included during January-November 2015), man-made fibre dresses (up by 30.0%
womens and girls man- to US$9.6 mn in 2014 and 11.0% to US$10.2 mn during January-
made fibre knitted shirts November 2015), other man-made fibre apparel (up by 24.4% to
and blouses, man-made US$11.3 mn in 2014 and 13.6% to US$11.8 mn during January-
fibre dresses, other man- November 2015) and mens and boys wool suits (up by 22.3% to
made fibre apparel, and US$0.4 mn in 2014 and 43.7% to US$0.6 mn during January-November
mens and boys wool suits 2015).
Sales of womens and girls At the same time, sales increased noticeably in 2014 but were down
man-made fibre trousers markedly during January-November 2015 in the case of several key
and mens and boys cotton clothing product categories, including womens and girls man-made
trousers increased fibre trousers (up by 24.2% to US$16.6 mn in 2014 but down by 43.4%
noticeably in 2014 but were to US$9.2 mn during January-November 2015) and mens and boys
down markedly during cotton trousers (up by 62.4% to US$13.7 mn in 2014 but down by 4.7%
January-November 2015 to US$12.0 mn during January-November 2015).
Moroccos worst The worst performing Moroccan products in the US import market in
performing products in the 2014 and during January-November 2015 included womens and girls
US import market in 2014 man-made fibre coats (down by 21.3% to US$9.3 mn in 2014 and
and during January- 32.0% to US$6.1 mn during January-November 2015).
November 2015 included
womens and girls man- They also included womens and girls cotton trousers (down by 24.7%
made fibre coats and to US$9.6 mn in 2014 and 58.9% to US$3.8 mn during January-
womens and girls cotton November 2015).
trousers
PRODUCTION
Textile production in Textile production in Morocco increased by 3.0% in 2014 after
Morocco increased in 2014 declining by 1.3% in 2013.
and was also up during
January-June 2015 Furthermore, during January-June 2015, it was up by 3.4% compared
with the corresponding period of the previous year.
TUNISIA
EXPORTS
Tunisian textile and Tunisian exports of textiles and clothing grew by 3.3% in 2014, from
clothing exports grew by TD5,214.6 mn to TD5,388.1 mn (US$3,173 mn), following a 6.1%
3.3% in 2014 increase in 2013.
In textiles, fabric exports In the case of textiles, Tunisian fabric exports were up by 4.0% to
were up by 4.0% TD537.7 mn.
In clothing, exports rose In the case of clothing, Tunisian exports rose by 3.2% in 2014, from
by 3.2% TD4,499.3 mn to TD4,641.5 mn.
Exports of knitted clothing Within the totals for clothing, exports of knitted clothing increased by
increased by 3.5% and 3.5% to TD1,232.6 mn and exports of woven clothing advanced by
woven clothing by 3.0% 3.0% to TD3,408.9 mn.
During January-October During January-October 2015, exports of textiles and clothing were
2015, textile and clothing down by 7.4% compared with the corresponding period of the previous
exports were down by 7.4% year, to TD4,096.3 mn.
In textiles, fabric exports In the case of textiles, fabric exports were up by 4.5% to
were up by 4.5% TD464.2 mn.
In clothing, however, In clothing, however, exports were down by 9.1%, from TD3,811.9 mn
exports were down by 9.1% to TD3,466.4 mn.
Woven clothing exports were Within the totals for clothing, woven clothing exports were down by
down by 10.9% and knitted 10.9% to TD2,499.6 mn and knitted clothing exports were down by
clothing exports by 4.1% 4.1% to TD966.8 mn.
EXPORT MARKETS
The largest market for The largest market for Tunisian clothing exports in 2014 was, by far, the
Tunisian clothing exports EU with a 97-98% share of exports to all destinations.
in 2014 was by far the EU,
followed by the USA The second largest market was the USA with a share of about 2-3% of
the total.
Sales of textiles declined Within these totals, sales of textiles declined by 2.9%, from
by 2.9% but sales of Euro261.0 mn to Euro253.3 mn, but sales of clothing grew by 1.5%,
clothing grew by 1.5% from Euro2,055.6 mn to Euro2,085.5 mn.
Tunisia accounted for Tunisias share of the EU textile and clothing import market has
2.3% of EU textile and declined markedly in recent years. In 2014 it was down to 2.3%, having
clothing imports from fallen from 2.5% in 2013, 2.6% in 2012, 2.9% in 2011, 3.1% in 2010
all sources in 2014 and 3.3% in 2009.
In clothing alone, it In clothing alone, Tunisia accounted for a 2.8% share of EU clothing
accounted for 2.8% of imports from all sources in 2014. This was down from 3.1% in both
EU clothing imports 2013 and 2012, from 3.5% in 2011 and from 3.7% in 2010.
from all sources
It accounted for 1.7% of EU A breakdown by product category shows that Tunisian knitted clothing
knitted clothing imports accounted for 1.7% of total sales of knitted clothing in the EU import
from all sources and for market in 2014 (unchanged from a year earlier) and Tunisian woven
4.0% of EU woven clothing clothing accounted for 4.0% of total sales of woven clothing in the EU
imports from all sources import market in 2014 (down from 4.4% in 2013).
Woven clothing accounted A breakdown of sales of Tunisian textiles and clothing in the EU import
for 63.1% of sales of market by product category in 2014 shows that woven clothing
Tunisian textiles and accounted for a 63.1% share of the total (down from 63.8% in 2013),
clothing in the EU import knitted clothing accounted for a 26.0% share (up from 24.9% in 2013),
market, knitted clothing made-up textiles accounted for a 6.8% share (down from 7.1% in 2013),
accounted for 26.0% and cotton fibres, yarns and woven fabrics accounted for a 1.2% share
made-up textiles (unchanged from 2013) and non-cotton vegetable fibres, yarns and
accounted for 6.8% woven fabrics accounted for a 0.8% share (up from 0.7% in 2013).
Among the best The best performing Tunisian textile and clothing product categories in
performing Tunisian the EU import market in 2014 in terms of sales growth included
textile and clothing non-cotton vegetable fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (up by 21.2% to
product categories in the Euro18.6 mn), wadding, felts, nonwoven fabrics and other textile
EU import market in products classified under HS Chapter 56 (up by 15.9% to Euro9.1 mn),
2014, sales of non-cotton silk fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (up by 12.2% to Euro3.8 mn) and
vegetable fibres, yarns wool fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (up by 10.6% to Euro1.7 mn).
and woven fabrics were
up by 21.2% More moderate increases, meanwhile, were recorded in sales of special
woven fabrics and other textile articles classified under HS Chapter 58
(up by 6.2% to Euro6.5 mn) and knitted clothing (up by 5.5% to
Euro608.8 mn).
Among the worst The worst performing Tunisian textile and clothing product categories
performing Tunisian in the EU import market in 2014 included knitted fabric (down by
textile and clothing 47.5% to Euro3.4 mn), carpets and other textile floor coverings (down
product categories, sales by 37.8% to Euro0.5 mn), fabrics impregnated, coated, covered or
of knitted fabric were laminated with plastics (down by 20.3% to Euro1.6 mn), man-made
down by 47.5% filament yarns and woven fabrics classified under HS Chapter 54 (down
by 17.8% to Euro9.9 mn) and man-made staple fibres, yarns and woven
fabrics classified under HS Chapter 55 (down by 14.4% to
Euro11.1 mn).
During January-June 2015, During January-June 2015, sales of Tunisian textiles and clothing in the
sales of Tunisian textiles EU import market were down by 3.5% compared with the
and clothing in the EU corresponding period a year earlier, from Euro1,246.5 mn to
import market were down Euro1,203.3 mn.
by 3.5%
Sales of textiles were up by Within these totals, sales of textiles were up by 6.1% to
6.1% but sales of clothing Euro142.5 mn but sales of clothing were down by 4.6% to
were down by 4.6% Euro1,060.7 mn.
Knitted clothing sales were Within the overall total for clothing, sales of knitted clothing were down
down by 6.6% and woven by 6.6% to Euro292.2 mn and sales of woven clothing were down by
clothing sales by 3.9% 3.9% to Euro768.6 mn.
Among Tunisias best In textiles, Tunisias best performing product categories in the EU
performing textile product import market in terms of sales growth included special woven fabrics
categories in the EU import and other textile articles classified under HS Chapter 58 (up by 49.8%
market, sales of special to Euro4.6 mn), wadding, felts, nonwoven fabrics and other textile
woven fabrics and other products classified under HS Chapter 56 (up by 45.5% to Euro5.2 mn),
textile articles classified non-cotton vegetable fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (up by 10.3% to
under HS Chapter 58 were Euro11.0 mn), man-made filament yarns and woven fabrics classified
up by 49.8% under HS Chapter 54 (up by 10.2% to Euro5.9 mn) and made-up textiles
(up by 7.8% to Euro91.3 mn).
Among Tunisias worst By contrast, Tunisias worst performing textile product categories in
performing textile the EU import market included knitted fabric (down by 27.8% to
product categories, sales Euro1.5 mn), wool fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (down by 26.7% to
of knitted fabric were Euro0.7 mn), silk fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (down by 24.4% to
down by 27.8% Euro1.6 mn), carpets and other textile floor coverings (down by 20.8%
to Euro0.2 mn) and cotton fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (down by
13.9% to Euro12.7 mn).
Sales of textiles increased Within these totals, sales of textiles increased by 111.0%, although they
by 111.0% but sales of remained minimal at US$2.1 mn. Sales of clothing, however, declined
clothing declined by 5.1% by 5.1% to US$77.9 mn.
During January-November During January-November 2015, sales of Tunisian textiles and clothing
2015, sales of textiles and in the US import market remained lacklustre, having declined by 9.6%
clothing were down by 9.6% compared with the corresponding period of the previous year, to
US$66.8 mn.
Sales of textiles were up by Within this total, sales of textiles surged againby 33.7% to
33.7% but sales of clothing US$2.4 mn. Sales of clothing, however, were down by 10.7% to
were down by 10.7% US$64.4 mn.
The declines in clothing sales The declines in sales of Tunisian clothing in the US import market in
were due largely to falls in 2014 and during January-November 2015 were due largely to falls in
sales of cotton clothing sales of cotton clothing.
and, in particular, to In 2014 sales of cotton clothing were down by 8.8% to US$44.8 mn
sales of womens and girls and during January-November 2015 they were down by 16.0% to
cotton trousers, mens and US$34.7 mn, having been dragged down by substantially lower sales of
boys cotton trousers, and womens and girls cotton trousers (down by 19.7% to US$5.6 mn in
mens and boys cotton 2014 and 19.4% to US$4.1 mn during January-November 2015), mens
knitted shirts and boys cotton trousers (down by 13.3% to US$17.6 mn in 2014 and
18.6% to US$13.3 mn during January-November 2015) and mens and
boys cotton knitted shirts (down by 18.9% to US$3.3 mn in 2014 and
1.8% to US$3.1 mn during January-November 2015).
while sales of man-made Meanwhile, sales of man-made fibre brassieres and other body-
fibre brassieres rose in 2014 supporting garments rose by 13.3% to US$13.6 mn in 2014 but were
but were down during down by 11.0% to US$11.6 mn during January-November 2015.
January-November 2015
PRODUCTION
Production by Tunisian Total production by Tunisian textile, clothing, footwear and leather
textile, clothing, footwear manufacturers grew by 1.3% in 2014 following an increase of 2.3% in
and leather manufacturers 2013.
grew by 1.3% in 2014 and
during January-June 2015 And during January-June 2015 total production was up by 5.7%
it was up by 5.7% compared with the corresponding period of the previous year.
Clothing production Within these totals, clothing production increased by 2.1% in 2014
increased by 2.1% in 2014 following a 5.1% rise in 2013.
TURKEY
EXPORTS
Turkish textile and Turkish textile and clothing exports increased at a moderate pace in
clothing exports grew at both 2013 and 2014.
a moderate pace in both
2013 and 2014, after a The increases followed a slowdown in 2012 which had been due to
slowdown in 2012 economic difficulties in the EUby far the largest market for Turkeys
textile and clothing exports.
In 2014 exports increased In 2014 Turkeys textile and clothing exports increased by 6.0%, from
by 6.0% following an US$27,706.1 mn to US$29,368.2 mn, following an 8.7% rise in 2013
8.7% rise in 2013 and growth of only 2.2% in 2012.
During January-October During January-October 2015, however, Turkeys textile and clothing
2015, however, exports exports were down by 10.9% compared with the corresponding period
were down by 10.9%, a year earlier, to US$22,045.5 mn.
although the fall was due
to a 19.2% depreciation Having said that, the fall was due to a 19.2% depreciation of the Turkish
of the Turkish lira lira against the US dollar. Indeed, in lira terms, exports actually rose by
against the US dollar around 10%.
Textile exports rose by Within the totals for Turkish textile and clothing exports, textile exports
2.9% in 2014 but during increased by 2.9% in 2014, from US$12,746.9 mn to US$13,111.4 mn,
January-October 2015 after rising by 9.4% in 2013. But during January-October 2015 they
they were down by 12.4% were down by 12.4% to US$9,617.8 mn.
Clothing exports grew by Clothing exports, meanwhile, rose by 8.7% in 2014, from
8.7% in 2014 but during US$14,959.1 mn to US$16,256.8 mn, following an 8.0% increase in
January-October 2015 2013. But during January-October 2015, they were down by 9.7% to
they were down by 9.7% US$12,427.6 mn.
Turkish textile and Turkish textile and clothing exports were higher in the case of most
clothing exports declined product categories in 2014.
in the case of only four
product categories in 2014 In fact, the only declines in 2014 were in exports of silk fibres, yarns
and woven fabrics (down by 19.3% to US$2.7 mn), cotton fibres, yarns
and woven fabrics (down by 2.7% to US$1,875.2 mn), non-cotton
vegetable fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (down by 2.6% to
US$25.9 mn) and special woven fabrics and other textile articles
classified under HS Chapter 58 (down by 2.4% to US$595.6 mn).
Exports of all other textile Exports of items in all other textile product categories increased in
product categories increased 2014.
Among the best The best performing Turkish textile product categories in terms of
performing Turkish export growth in 2014 included wadding, felts, nonwoven fabrics and
textile product categories other textile products classified under HS Chapter 56 (up by 12.6% to
in terms of export growth US$578.2 mn), woven clothing (up by 9.1% to US$6,232.5 mn),
in 2014, sales of wadding, knitted clothing (up by 8.4% to US$10,024.2 mn), carpets and other
felts, nonwoven fabrics textile floor coverings (up by 7.3% to US$2,347.6 mn), man-made
and other textile staple fibres, staple fibre yarns and woven fabrics classified under
products classified under HS Chapter 55 (up by 5.4% to US$1,456.1 mn) and man-made filament
HS Chapter 56 were up yarns and woven fabrics classified under HS Chapter 54 (up by 4.9% to
by 12.6% US$1,772.6 mn).
Among the worst The worst performing textile product categories included special woven
performing textile fabrics and other textile articles classified under HS Chapter 58 (down
product categories, sales by 20.3% to US$401.2 mn), non-cotton vegetable fibres, yarns and
of special woven fabrics woven fabrics (down by 18.7% to US$16.7 mn), silk fibres, yarns and
and other textile articles woven fabrics (down by 17.2% to US$1.9 mn), wool fibres, yarns and
classified under woven fabrics (down by 16.0% to US$135.8 mn), made-up textiles
HS Chapter 58 were (down by 15.9% to US$1,574.4 mn), knitted fabric (down by 15.3% to
down by 20.3% US$1,228.8 mn) and carpets and other textile floor coverings (down by
12.9% to US$1,664.1 mn).
In clothing, exports of knitted In clothing, exports of knitted clothing were down by 12.2% to
clothing were down by 12.2% US$7,441.2 mn while exports of woven clothing were down by 5.7% to
and woven clothing by 5.7% US$4,986.4 mn.
Turkeys most important Turkeys most important textile and clothing export product category
textile and clothing export during January-October 2015 was knitted clothing with a 33.8% share
product category during of total shipments.
January-October 2015 was
knitted clothing, followed Turkeys second most important export product was woven clothing
by woven clothing with a 22.6% share.
EXPORT MARKETS
Exports from Turkey to the EU
In 2014 Turkey was the In 2014 Turkey was the EUs second largest textile and clothing
EUs second largest textile supplier, after China, with a 13.7% share of EU textile and clothing
and clothing supplier imports from all sources during the year.
It supplied 17.1% of EU In the case of textiles, Turkey accounted for a 17.1% share of EU textile
textile imports from all imports from all sources (down from 17.3% in 2013).
sources and 12.5% of EU
clothing imports from all In clothing, Turkey accounted for a 12.5% share of EU clothing imports
sources from all sources (down from 13.0% in 2013).
Sales of Turkish textiles and Sales of Turkish textiles and clothing in the EU import market rose by
clothing in the EU import 5.7% in 2014, from Euro12,985.4 mn to Euro13,723.8 mn
market rose by 5.7% in 2014 (US$18,235.8 mn), according to EU import data.
Sales of textiles increased Within these totals, sales of textiles increased by 7.0%, from
by 7.0% and sales of Euro4,221.5 mn to Euro4,515.8 mn, while sales of clothing grew by
clothing by 5.1% 5.1%, from Euro8,763.9 mn to Euro9,208.0 mn.
Knitted clothing sales rose Within the totals for clothing, sales of knitted clothing rose by 5.4%,
by 5.4% and woven from Euro5,441.5 mn to Euro5,735.2 mn, while sales of woven clothing
clothing sales by 4.5% increased by 4.5%, from Euro3,322.3 mn to Euro3,472.8 mn.
Among the best In textiles, the best performing Turkish product categories in the EU
performing Turkish textile import market in terms of sales growth in 2014 included silk fibres,
product categories in the yarns and woven fabrics (up by 32.2% to Euro1.2 mn), wadding, felts,
EU import market in 2014, nonwoven fabrics and other textile products classified under
sales of wadding, felts, HS Chapter 56 (up by 26.9% to Euro172.7 mn), carpets and other textile
nonwoven fabrics and floor coverings (up by 21.3% to Euro364.6 mn), non-cotton vegetable
other textile products fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (up by 15.4% to Euro11.3 mn) and man-
classified under made filament yarns and woven fabrics classified under HS Chapter 54
HS Chapter 56 were up by (up by 12.3% to Euro616.4 mn).
26.9% and sales of carpets
and other textile floor There was also growth, albeit more moderate, in sales of knitted
coverings were up by fabric (up by 8.9% to Euro592.6 mn), special woven fabrics and other
21.3% textile articles classified under HS Chapter 58 (up by 7.9% to
Euro146.4 mn), fabrics impregnated, coated, covered or laminated
with plastics (up by 5.3% to Euro124.2 mn), made-up textiles (up by
5.3% to Euro1,143.3 mn) and man-made staple fibres, yarns and
woven fabrics classified under HS Chapter 55 (up by 5.0% to
Euro490.8 mn).
The only decline was in The only textile product category which suffered a decline in sales in
sales of cotton fibres, yarns 2014 was that of cotton fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (down by 2.9%
and woven fabrics to Euro787.7 mn).
During January-June 2015, During January-June 2015, sales of Turkish textiles and clothing in the
sales of textiles and EU import market were up by 0.6% compared with the corresponding
clothing were up by 0.6% period a year earlier, to Euro6,950.4 mn.
Textile sales were up by Within this total, sales of textiles were up by 4.4% to
4.4% but clothing sales Euro2,411.4 mn but sales of clothing were down by 1.3% to
were down by 1.3% Euro4,539.0 mn.
Among the best The best performing Turkish textile and clothing product categories
performing Turkish textile in the EU import market during January-June 2015 included
and clothing product wadding, felts, nonwoven fabrics and other textile products classified
categories in the EU import under HS Chapter 56 (up by 25.7% to Euro105.2 mn), wool fibres,
market during January- yarns and woven fabrics (up by 18.0% to Euro36.1 mn), man-made
June 2015, sales of textile filament yarns and woven fabrics classified under HS Chapter 54 (up by
products classified under 16.2% to Euro375.4 mn), fabrics impregnated, coated, covered or
HS Chapter 56 were up by laminated with plastics (up by 12.5% to Euro72.8 mn) and non-
25.7% cotton vegetable fibres, yarns and woven fabrics (up by 8.9% to
Euro5.9 mn).
By contrast, there were By contrast, there were falls in sales of silk fibres, yarns and
falls in sales of silk fibres, woven fabrics (down by 29.4% to Euro0.5 mn), special woven
yarns and woven fabrics, fabrics and other textile articles classified under HS Chapter 58 (down
textile articles classified by 3.4% to Euro72.9 mn) and knitted clothing (down by 3.2% to
under HS Chapter 58 and Euro2,753.5 mn).
knitted clothing
Sales of Turkish textiles In 2014 sales of Turkish textiles and clothing in the US import market
and clothing in the US increased by 10.5% to US$1,158.0 mn, according to US import data.
import market increased
by 10.5% in 2014 and And during January-November 2015, sales were up by 9.7%
during January-November compared with the corresponding period of the previous year, to
2015 they were up by 9.7% US$1,161.4 mn.
Textile sales rose by 12.8% Within these totals, sales of textiles increased by 12.8% to
in 2014 and by 8.6% during US$749.0 mn in 2014 and during January-November 2015 they were up
January-November 2015 by 8.6% to US$740.7 mn.
Clothing sales grew by 6.3% Sales of clothing, meanwhile, grew by 6.3% to US$409.0 mn in 2014.
in 2014 and by 11.6% during Furthermore, during January-November 2015 they were up by 11.6% to
January-November 2015 US$420.7 mn.
Among the best The best performing Turkish textile and clothing product categories in
performing Turkish the US import market in terms of sales growth during January-
textile and clothing November 2015 included man-made fibre underwear (up by 202.0% to
product categories in the US$4.7 mn), womens and girls man-made fibre knitted shirts and
US import market during blouses (up by 53.9% to US$34.1 mn), womens and girls man-made
January-November 2015, fibre woven shirts and blouses (up by 51.2% to US$16.3 mn), synthetic
sales of man-made fibre filament fabric other than that made from polyester (up by 49.2% to
underwear were up by US$43.8 mn), speciality yarn (up by 42.0% to US$5.2 mn), cotton twill
202.0% fabric (up by 41.7% to US$5.7 mn) and blue denim fabric (up by 41.5%
to US$6.7 mn).
Among the worst By contrast, the worst performing product categories during January-
performing product November 2015 included textured filament yarn (down by 96.7% to
categories, sales of floor US$0.1 mn), cotton underwear (down by 45.0% to US$2.3 mn), mens
coverings made from and boys cotton suit-type coats (down by 32.6% to US$2.2 mn), mens
wool were down by and boys wool trousers (down by 29.1% to US$5.5 mn), non-textured
25.7% filament yarn (down by 27.2% to US$7.5 mn) and floor coverings made
from wool (down by 23.5% to US$28.2 mn).
PRODUCTION
Turkeys textile production Turkeys textile production increased for the fifth consecutive year in
rose for the fifth 2014, having risen by 1.1%, following increases of 1.7% in 2013, 4.3%
consecutive year in 2014, in 2012, 2.1% in 2011, and 10.6% in 2010.
by 1.1%, but during
January-October 2015 it During January-October 2015, however, production was down by 4.9%
was down by 4.9% compared with the corresponding period of the previous year.
SUMMARY
European fabric manufacturers exhibiting at the European trade fairs for the autumn/winter 2016/17
season reported that they had done good business at the fairsin spite of the fact that economic and
political problems have been affecting some of their important marketsas buyers are, increasingly,
sourcing high quality fabrics for the global fashion industry from textile producers based in Europe. The
organisers of the major European fabric fairs have been exploiting this demand by establishing fairs in
other parts of the world, notably in China, Japan, South Korea and the USA.
Also, some organisers have been responding to pressure from manufacturers to get an earlier look at
the seasons collections by establishing small first look events about two months before the main fairs.
An important trend at the European fabric fairs for autumn/winter 2016/17 season was a soft, woolly
touch, including felted effects, fur fabrics and velvets. But what was impressive was the amount of printed
pattern and decorative ingenuity on view. Pattern was no longer just a feature of lighter fabrics but was
also applied to heavier weight cloths intended for jackets, suits and outerwear.
FABRIC FAIRS
TIMING
Organisers are debating The organisers of the European fabric fairs continually assess the
whether to change the timings of the fairs in relation to the needs and desires of their
timings of the larger customers.
European fabric fairs to
allow manufacturers an At present, there is an ongoing debate as to whether the timings of the
earlier view of the products larger fabric fairswhich are currently held in February and
and more time to prepare Septembershould be changed to allow manufacturers an earlier view
their collections of the products being offered for the season and hence more time to
prepare their collections.
One suggestion is that the One suggestion is that the larger fairs for the spring/summer season
larger fairs should be should be brought forward to the corresponding December and/or
brought forward January while those for the autumn/winter season should be held in
July.
1
Philippa Watkins is a freelance textile designer and writer on textile subjects and a former textile editor of
WGSNa web-based fashion and textiles information service. She was also a senior tutor at the Royal College
of Art, London, UK, where she specialised in woven fabrics. For a glossary of terms used in this report, visit
http://www.textilesintelligence.com/glo/
and the smaller fairs Under this scheme, the smaller fairs would be held at the end of the
held at the end of the fabric fabric buying seasons, in March and October respectively.
buying seasons, but major
changes seem unlikely in In the immediate future, major changes seem unlikely as there appear
the immediate future be too many considerations to be taken into account.
The organisers of Munich But, in response to pressure from some customers for an earlier view
Fabric Start have been hol- of the seasons products, the organisers of Munich Fabric Start
ding a small pre-collection have been holding a small pre-collection event twice a year before the
event twice a year called main Munich Fabric Start fair. This small, pre-collection event is called
VIEW Premium Selection VIEW Premium Selection.
170 collections were The first VIEW Premium Selection was held in December 2007, and
presented at the first such about 170 fabric collections were presented at the event.
event in December 2007
and in December 2015 this At the most recent event, held during December 9-10, 2015, the number
figure was over 300 of fabric collections was over 300.
This show has become well This show, at which exhibitors present a first glimpse of ideas and
established and the number innovations for the season ahead, has now become well established and
of visitors has been growing the number of visitors at the event has been growing each season.
The London Textile Fair Elsewhere, the London Textile Fair takes place in London, UK, in
also takes place before the January and July before the major European fairs for the spring/summer
major European fairs season and the autumn/winter season, respectively, are staged.
The first edition of the The London Textile Fair was established in 2007 at a small club in
fair in 2007 hosted just 25 Marylebone, London, with just 25 exhibitors. Since then, the fair has
exhibitors but at the July grown steadily and in 2012 it moved to the much larger Business Design
2015 edition there were Centre in Islington, London. At the July 2015 event, there were more
more than 380 exhibitors than 380 exhibitors.
In July 2015 Milano Milano Unica followed the trend on an experimental basis by staging an
Unica staged an event event called Prima MU in July 2015 in order to provide a first glimpse
called Prima MU on an of fabrics and accessories for the autumn/winter 2016/17 season.
experimental basis, and
the organisers intend to The organisers of the fair intend to repeat the experiment some time in
repeat the experiment July 2016 although the date has still to be decided.
some time in July 2016
TRADING CONDITIONS
European fabric makers did European fabric manufacturers exhibiting at the European trade fairs for
good business at the fairs as the autumn/winter 2016/17 season reported that they had done good
buyers increasingly source business at the fairs as buyers are, increasingly, sourcing high quality
high quality fabric in Europe fabrics from textile producers based in Europe.
The creativity and The creativity and inventiveness of European producers has kept on
inventiveness of European growing despite years of economic downturn and complex global
producers has kept on issues.
growing despite years of
economic downturn and Obstacles in 2015 included growing economic problems in China, a
complex global issues recession in Brazil and turbulence in the Middle East and Ukraine.
The major textile shows in Buyers in international markets continue to look for excellent quality
Europe, including Milano fabrics from European producers. As evidence of this, the major textile
Unica and Premire Vision shows in Europe have been expanding beyond their geographical
Fabrics, have been boundaries. For example:
expanding beyond their
geographical boundaries as Milano Unica takes its exhibitors to New York in the USA and
buyers in international Shanghai in China; and
markets continue to look
for excellent quality fabrics Premire Vision Fabrics is now staged not only in Lille and Paris in
from European producers France but also in New York, USA, in Istanbul, Turkey, in Tokyo,
Japan, in Seoul, South Korea, and in Shanghai, China.
At Ideabiella, which forms One part of the Italian textile industry which has seen increases in
part of Milano Unica, there exports is the wool textile sector. There was evidence of this at
was evidence of increases Ideabiellaa fair which forms part of Milano Unica and is devoted to
in exports by the Italian showing top quality textiles for mens wear, notably extremely fine
wool textile sector worsted wools (see below).
Attendance at the The number of visitors at Ideabiella in September 2015 was up by 3.2%
September 2015 edition of compared with the event held in September 2014. A breakdown by
Ideabiella was up by 3.2% country shows that there was a 7.5% increase in the number of visitors
compared with the event from Japan and a 5.3% increase in the number of visitors from China.
held in September 2014 Also, there was a 6.3% increase in the number of visitors from Italy.
The firms exhibiting have The exhibitors at Ideabiella produce high quality wool worsted cloths
helped Italy to remain the and these have helped Italy to continue to be the number one exporter
leading exporter of high of these items at the international level.
quality wool worsted cloths
MILANO UNICA
Milano Unica is a trade fair Milano Unica, held in Milan, Italy, is a textile trade fair which is
dedicated to quality textiles dedicated to showing high quality textiles from Italy and other European
from European countries countries.
It comprises three smaller The event comprises three smaller fairsnamely Ideabiella, Moda In
fairs representing different and Shirt Avenuewhich represent different sectors of the textile
sectors of the textile industry industry.
Many visitors come for the Many visitors come to Milano Unica for the strong focus on mens wear
strong focus on mens wear at at Ideabiella and Shirt Avenue. This ingredient is not so evident at other
Ideabiella and Shirt Avenue European trade fairs.
At the September 2015 At the event held during September 8-10, 2015which was the 21st
event there were 404 edition of Milano Unicathere were 404 exhibitors from European
exhibitors from European countries showing textiles for autumn/winter 2016/17.
countries compared with
410 in September 2014 This number was down slightly on the 410 who exhibited in September
2014.
Of the 404 exhibitors, Of the 404 exhibitors from European countries at the September 2015
71 were from countries event, 71 were from countries other than Italy compared with 74 in
other than Italy September 2014.
There were 47 firms in In addition, there were 47 Japanese firms in the Japan Observatory. This
the Japan Observatory represented an increase of 62% compared with the 29 exhibitors who
were present at the first edition of the Japan Observatory in September
2014.
and ten firms in the Also, there were ten firms in the Korea Observatory, which took place
Korea Observatory at Milano Unica for the first time in September 2015.
In the Japan Observatory, In the Japan Observatory, Japanese firms showed many high quality,
Japanese firms showed technically innovative, creative fabrics.
high quality, technically
innovative and creative Their range of ideas included 3D effects, blistered and cut holes, boucl
fabrics wools, crinkle effects, cut wefts, printed spacer fabrics and suedes.
6,322 firms were Figures showing visitor numbers at Milano Unica are no longer
represented by visitors at published. Instead the organisers of the fair stated that 6,322 firms were
Milano Unica in represented by visitors at the fair during the three days it was held in
September 2015 but the September 2015. However, the percentage share of Italian firms
share of Italian firms represented by visitors was down by 10 percentage points compared
represented was down by with September 2014.
10 percentage points
compared with the event At the September 2014 edition of Milano Unica, the number of visitors
held in September 2014 had reached 21,800, which represented a slight increase on the 21,600
visitors who attended the September 2013 edition.
Admittedly, 706 firms The organisers of Milano Unica have conceded that the overall picture
were represented by regarding the number of visitors may not seem positive at first glance.
visitors at Milano Unicas But they point out that 706 firms were represented by visitors at Prima
first glimpse event, MUthe first glimpse event which was held at the beginning of July
Prima MU, held in July and therefore some two months before Milano Unica in September
2015 2015.
The September 2015 The September 2015 edition of Milano Unica was also preceded by
edition of Milano Unica Milano Unica in New York, USA, during July 20-22, 2015, and it
was also preceded by was followed by Milano Unica China in Shanghai, China, in October
Milano Unica in New York 2015.
There were fewer firms It was noticeable that there were fewer firms represented by visitors at
represented by visitors at Milano Unica in September 2015 from countries where clothing
Milano Unica in production and trade are suffering from a downturn as a result of the
September 2015 from Russian economic crisis2.
Germany, the Czech
Republic and Turkey due The number of firms represented by visitors from Germany, for
to the Russian economic example, was down by 12%, from the Czech Republic by 37% and from
crisis Turkey by 29%.
2
The Russian economic crisis has been caused by a combination of factors, including the effects of sanctions
imposed by the EU and the USA, the falling price of oil and the collapse of the rouble.
However, the number of But participation by visitors from several other foreign countries was
firms represented by more reassuring. In the case of visitors from China, for example, the
visitors from China, Great number of firms represented was 2% higher at 465.
Britain, South Korea and
France was up, the number Similarly, the number of firms represented by visitors from Great
of firms represented by Britain was up by 6%, the number of firms represented by visitors from
visitors from the USA South Korea was up by 20% and the number of firms represented by
remained stable, and 101 visitors from France was up by 2%.
firms were represented by
visitors from Russia Meanwhile, the number of firms represented by visitors from the USA
remained stable at 201, and 101 firms were represented by visitors from
Russiathereby demonstrating confidence in the future.
In September 2015 In September 2015 Milano Unica organised an event dedicated to young
Milano Unica organised designers, called On Stage, in partnership with The Woolmark
On Stage, an event at Company.
which ten emerging
international designers Ten emerging international designers were selected and invited to
were invited to present present their collections.
their collections, in
partnership with The The eventwhich was first held in 2009was staged in
Woolmark Company Via Montenapoleone, the centre of fashion retail in the city of Milan.
Milano Unica also hosted Milano Unica also hosted a Campaign for Wool initiative at the
a Campaign for Wool beginning of Wool Week.
initiative to promote wool
as an environmentally The latterwhich was held from October 5 to October 11, 2015is an
sustainable fibre educational and promotional week dedicated to wool as an
environmentally sustainable fibre.
New records have been In recent seasons, new records in terms of numbers of exhibitors and
registered in recent visitors have been registered at the fair.
seasons but visitor
numbers were down in Admittedly, the number of visitors at the event held in September 2015
September 2015 was down to about 19,700 compared with 20,000 at the event held in
September 2014.
However, there was a However, there was a slight increase, to 38%, in the percentage of
slight increase in the visitors from countries other than Germany.
percentage of visitors
from countries other In particular, there were increases in visitor numbers from Argentina,
than Germany Asian countries, East European countries, France and the USA.
At the September 2015 The fair held in September 2015 was the 39th event and included nearly
edition of the fair, there were 1,000 exhibitorsup from 950 in September 2014. Furthermore, the
nearly 1,000 exhibitors from exhibitors came from 36 countries.
36 countries who presented a
range of fabrics and The exhibitors presented an extended range of fabrics and accessories
accessories, including denims for the autumn/winter 2016/17 season, including denims and sportswear
and sportswear fabrics fabrics.
The fair was divided into The fair was divided into four sections, namely:
four sections, namely
Fabrics, Additionals Fabrics;
(accessories), Design Additionals (accessories);
Studios, and the Bluezone Design Studios; and
the Bluezone.
Fabrics
The Fabrics section The Fabrics section included the Asia Salon. This was bigger than in
included the Asia Salon, previous seasons, and included a newly opened section in the Atrium 2
which was bigger than in exhibition space which was dedicated to Taiwanese exhibitors who
previous seasons and were exhibiting for the first time.
included a newly opened
section in the Atrium 2 Exhibitors from China and South Korea who had been present at
exhibition space previous editions of the fair were located in the rest of the salon.
There were about 150 Asian In total, there were about 150 Asian producers in the Asia Salon in
producers in the Asia Salon, September 2015.
including suppliers of
denim, functional and high Among these producers were suppliers of denim, functional and high
performance fabrics, performance fabrics, jacquards, prints and embroidery as well as
jacquards, prints and innovative weaves and knits.
embroidery
The Bluezone
In the Bluezone, some 80 One important section is the Bluezone. In this section, some 80
exhibitors presented exhibitors presented their latest developments in denim and sportswear.
developments in denim
and sportswear The exhibitors included manufacturers of denim and denim-related
fabrics such as cords, flats, dyed fabrics and washed fabrics.
Also, finishers, launderers The Bluezone also included finishers, launderers and suppliers of
and suppliers of accessories accessories.
showed innovations in
resource saving finishes On show were innovations in resource saving finishes and
and production production.
Each of the six fairs has Each of the six fairs which now form Premire Vision Paris has been
been rebranded branded with the prefix Premire Vision, followed by a single word
to indicate its product sector, as follows:
Expofil has become Expofil has become Premire Vision Yarns, a show for yarns and
Premire Vision Yarns fibres;
Premire Vision has become Premire Vision has become Premire Vision Fabrics, a show for
Premire Vision Fabrics clothing fabrics;
Cuir Paris has become Cuir Paris has become Premire Vision Leather, a show for leather
Premire Vision Leather and fur;
Indigo has become Indigo has become Premire Vision Designs, a show for textile
Premire Vision Designs design and creation;
ModAmont has become ModAmont has become Premire Vision Accessories, a show for
Premire Vision accessories and components for fashion and design; and
Accessories, and Zoom by
Fatex has become Premire Zoom by Fatex has become Premire Vision Manufacturing, a show
Vision Manufacturing which specialises in fashion manufacturing.
The recent integration of the The recent integration of the fairs under the Premire Vision Paris
fairs under the Premire banner has added strength to the whole enterprise.
Vision Paris banner has added
strength to the whole A new, expanded website has been created. This has drawn increased
enterprise and a new website attention to each individual show, and has become an important
has drawn increased attention marketing tool which enables account holders to receive news and
to each individual show product information.
61,664 visitors attended The total number of visitors who attended Premire Vision Paris in
Premire Vision Paris in September 2015 was 61,664which provides some indication of the
September 2015, indicating importance of Premire Vision Paris as a sourcing event for anyone in
the importance of the event the fashion business.
for anyone in the fashion
business Admittedly, this number was down by 1% compared with the 62,431
visitors who attended Premire Vision Pluriel in September 2014.
However, the level of attendance in September 2014 is regarded as
having been exceptionally high.
The event attracted 1,924 Some 1,924 exhibitors from 57 countries presented their collections and
exhibitors from 57 seasonal developments at Premire Vision Paris in September 2015.
countries, and at Premire
Vision Fabrics there were At Premire Vision Fabrics, there were 770 exhibitors from 34 countries
770 exhibitors from 34 compared with the 780 exhibitors who exhibited in September 2014. Of
countries the 770 exhibitors, 38 exhibitors were participating in the fair for the
first time and seven had returned to the fair after a period of absence.
74% of visitors at Premire 74% of the visitors at Premire Vision Paris had come from European
Vision Paris came from countries.
European countries,
although a large contingent However, a large contingent had come from outside Europe, and the
came from outside Europe share of non-European visitors is increasing.
The leading source of visi- The leading source of visitors at the fair was France with a share of
tors was France, followed 26%, or 16,239 visitors, followed by Italy with share of 11%, or 7,053
by Italy and the UK visitors, and the UK with a share of 9%, or 5,479 visitors.
The number of visitors Among countries outside Europe, the number of visitors from China
from China was up by 17% was up by 17% compared with September 2014, to 2,891.
The number of visitors By contrast, the number of visitors from North America was down
from North America was slightly to 2,800.
down slightly due to the
overlapping of the fair The fall is thought to have been due to the fact that the fair
with New York Fashion overlapped with New York Fashion Week, which was held during
Week September 10-17, 2015.
The number of visitors The number of visitors from Turkey was 2,350, which represented an
from Turkey rose by 3% increase of 3% compared with September 2014.
The number of visitors The number of visitors from Japan was 1,901. This represented an
from Japan was up by 22% increase of 22% on the 1,560 who attended the fair for the
compared with the spring/summer 2016 seasonheld in February 2015although no data
February 2015 edition of are available for the number of visitors from Japan who attended the fair
the fair for autumn/winter 2015/16, which was held in September 2014.
But the number of visitors The number of visitors from Russia, however, was down by 13% on the
from Russia was down by previous year. The decrease has been attributed to economic difficulties
13% on the previous year in the country.
The PV Awards took place The PV Awards took place for the seventh time at the September 2015
for the seventh time event.
There were awards for three There were awards for three categories of textiles and also, for the first
textile categories and three time, three categories of leather.
leather categories and the
results were announced on The results were announced on the first day of the fairs in order to allow
the first day so the winners the winners to benefit from exposure at an early stage while the fairs
could benefit from exposure were taking place.
the Leather Handle Prize the Leather Handle Prize went to the Italian company Russo di
to Russo di Casandrino and Casandrino; and
the Leather Imagination
Prize to Fedi Silvano the Leather Imagination Prize went to Fedi Silvano, also of Italy.
TEXWORLD
Texworld is a major fair Texworldorganised by Messe Frankfurt and held in Paris, Franceis
for non-European fabric a major fair for non-European fabric producers who are not exhibiting
producers who do not at Premire Vision Fabrics (see page 38).
exhibit at Premire Vision
Fabrics The fair is staged over four days, and overlaps with Premire Vision
Fabrics.
At the event held in At the event held in September 2015, which was the 37th edition,
September 2015, which exhibitors showed fabrics for the autumn/winter 2016/17 season.
was the 37th edition, there
were 946 exhibitors from The event hosted 946 exhibitors, which represented an increase on the
26 countries showing 884 exhibitors who were present at the event held in September 2014.
fabrics for autumn/ However, the number of countries from which the exhibitors had come
winter 2016/17 was down slightly to 26 from 28 a year earlier.
The exhibitors had a The exhibitors had a comprehensive offer, ranging from entry-level
comprehensive offer fabrics to high end items.
Most of the exhibitors Most of the exhibitors were from non-European countries, and a high
were from non-European proportion were from Asian countries.
countries, the leading
sources being China, The leading source of exhibitors was China (552 exhibitors), followed
Turkey, South Korea by Turkey (94 exhibitors) and South Korea (78 exhibitors).
India, Taiwan, Pakistan Also, there were 63 exhibitors from India, 48 exhibitors from Taiwan,
and Indonesia 27 exhibitors from Pakistan and 17 exhibitors from Indonesia.
Texworld now includes Texworld has evolved over the years and now includes an area called
an area dedicated to Apparelsourcing which is dedicated to manufacturers of finished
manufacturers of clothing and fashion accessories. It is claimed that Apparelsourcing is
finished clothing and the largest show in Europe dedicated to finished products and fashion
fashion accessories accessories, and in September 2015 it attracted 400 exhibitors from 16
called Apparelsourcing countries.
September 2015 saw the In a further development, September 2015 saw the launch of Avantex
launch of Avantex Paris Paris.
There were 28 exhibitors, of There were 28 exhibitors participating in Avantex Paris in September
whom 17 were from Taiwan 2015, of whom 17 were from Taiwan alone.
Exhibitors were offering The exhibitors were offering many techniquesincluding conductive
many techniques, including textiles, encapsulation, intelligent micro systems, new digital processes,
conductive textiles for use in thermal solutions and high-tech materials which are already available
garments, and Everest for use in garments.
Textile displayed products
manufactured using Everest Textilean expert in dyeing and finishing based in
environmentally friendly Taiwandisplayed a wide range of products which had been
industrial processes manufactured using environmentally friendly industrial processes.
The number of visitors The content of Texworld matched the expectations of visitors from
from France was up by France in particular.
12% compared with the
previous year, making In fact, the number of visitors from France was up by 12% compared
France the biggest source with the previous year, making France the biggest source of visitors in
of visitors in Europe Europeahead of the UK and Spain.
By the third day, 13,075 By the third day, a total of 13,075 visitors had registered at Texworld.
visitors from 109 countries However, this number was down by 13% on the 15,034 visitors who had
had registered compared registered for the event in September 2014.
with 15,034 visitors at the
September 2014 event The 13,075 visitors who registered for the event in September 2015 had
come from a total of 109 countries.
The number of visitors The number of visitors from the Asia-Pacific region was up by 1%
from Asia-Pacific was up while the number of visitors from Hong Kong alone was up by 48%.
by 1% and the number These visitors appreciated the Avantex offer, which reflected the strong
from Hong Kong alone presence of representatives of the industry from Taiwana leader in
was up by 48% this high-tech segment.
There were also increases There were also increases in the numbers of visitors from Morocco (up
in the numbers of visitors by 18%) and Tunisia (up by 38%). Traditionally, these countries are
from Morocco and suppliers of garments to Europe. However, the visitors had come to
Tunisia source new materials and learn about trends.
as well as Portugal The number of visitors from Portugal, another major player in the
European garment industry, was up by 17% compared with the previous
year.
However, there was a fall However, there was a fall in the number of visitors from South America.
in the number of visitors This was likely to have been due to the economic crises in a number of
from South America South American countries, particularly Brazil.
Three fashion shows attrac- Three fashion showsan original feature of the trade fairs organised by
ted large numbers of visitors Messe Frankfurt in Franceattracted large numbers of visitors.
In one fashion show, In one fashion show, Avantex Paris presented clothing made using
Avantex Paris presented exhibitors products. A parade of silhouettes conceived by students
clothing made using of the French fashion school Esmod (cole suprieure des arts et
exhibitors products techniques de la mode) was accompanied by a commentary
explaining the technical nature of the fabrics.
A second fashion show, at In a second fashion show, at Texworld, wedding dresses by the Paris
Texworld, featured Max couturier Max Chaoul were featured. Mr Chaoul had obtained his
Chaoul wedding dresses, supplies from Texworld.
and in the third fashion
show Apparelsourcing paid In the third fashion show, Apparelsourcing paid tribute to the skills
tribute to manufacturers in of manufacturers of ready-to-wear items in Vietnam and Pakistan by
Vietnam and Pakistan highlighting their products.
The next Texworld will be The next Texworld will take place from Monday February 15, 2016, to
held during February 2016 Thursday February 18, 2016.
Table 1: Leading European fabric fairs for autumn/winter 2016/17 and spring/summer 2017
FABRIC TRENDS
Strong fabric directions Some very strong fabric directions emerged from the fabric fairs for the
emerged from the fabric autumn/winter 2016/17 season, and there was a wide variety of
fairs for the autumn/winter innovative and decorative techniques and finishes on display.
2016/17 season and
considerable creative skills Considerable creative skills had been employed to produce fabrics with
had been employed added value and excitement.
Pattern and print were Pattern and print were ubiquitousnot only in lightweights but also in
ubiquitous in weightier fabrics with substance which were suitable for jackets and
lightweight fabrics, and outerwear generally.
in heavier fabrics such
as brushed wools and In particular, some of the heavier fabrics, such as brushed wools and
felts, velvets and cottons felts, velvets and cottons, were printed (Figure 1 and Figure 2).
Burn-out prints and laser In many cases, burn-out prints had been used, as had laser cutting, to
cutting had been used, some create transparency which contrasted with solidity.
jacquards were overprinted
and many prints were over- Some jacquards were overprinted, and a number of prints were over-
embroidered or appliqud embroidered or appliqud (Figure 3).
For winter fabrics, a soft For winter fabrics in particular, a soft handle offering a woolly touch
handle offering a woolly touch with a muffled warmth and cosiness was highly sought after, and was
with a muffled warmth and found in lofty, brushed and raised fabrics (Figure 4).
cosiness was highly sought
after and there were many There were also many felted effects and fur fabrics.
felted effects and fur fabrics
Velvet is important for the Velvet is important again for the autumn/winter 2016/17 season, and is
season and is being created being created in many versions, including wool, silk, cotton or
in many versions viscoseall with velvety softness.
Niedieck and Redaelli The specialist velvet producers Niedieck and Redaelliboth part of the
are concentrating on Italian Marzotto Groupare concentrating on natural fibres for their
natural fibres for their velvets.
velvets, including wool,
linen, alpaca and At the fairs, they presented wool velvets and cords, as well as velvets in
cashmere linen blends, and even velvets in alpaca and cashmere.
Niedieck was also offering an Niedieck, which specialises in imitation furs, was also offering a
astrakhan look, and a bru- beautiful viscose/cotton astrakhan look in its range, as well as a
shed alpaca pile coat fabric magnificent brushed alpaca pile coat fabric.
Devor printing on velvets was In addition, devor printing on velvets was back in evidence in
evident in many collections collections by a number of mills (Figure 5).
Flock printing had been Another technique which had been widely applied to create a velvety
widely applied to create surface on different fabrics is that of flock printing. Examples of this
a velvety surface on technique at the fairs included: flocked spots on polyester organza, as
different fabrics presented by the Italian mill Cavalleri; flocked tulle, as presented by the
French mill Goutarel; and flocked waterproof nylon, as presented by
Frizza of Italy (Figure 6).
The winning fabric at the PV The winning fabric at the PV Awards, held at Premire Vision Fabrics
Awards was a mesh fabric for the seventh time (see page 40), was a mesh fabric from the Italian
from Eusebio which had been company Eusebio which had been flocked and hence turned into a
flocked and turned into velvet velvet.
Important influences on the Important influences on the designs of prints and the textures of fabrics
designs of prints and the were forms and patterns found in nature.
textures of fabrics were
forms and patterns found There were, for instance, printed imitations of the veins of leaves and
in nature, including the foliage, some of which were very large and some of which were very
veins of leaves and foliage small.
Tree bark, moss and lichen Tree bark, moss and lichen or woodgrain were imitated in the
or woodgrain were imitated textures of fabricsin many cases in the soft colours of faded dried
in the textures of fabrics flowers.
Frizza had a very large Frizza had a very large feather effect in monotone, printed on
feather effect in monotone nylon.
In jacquards and prints, In jacquards and prints, folk type patterns from different parts of the
folk type patterns from world were popular. These included:
different parts of the world
were popular Arctic Inuit and Nordic folklore in banded patterns; and
influences from warmer climates, including prints in carpet, kilim
or blanket designs and Indian block print flowers.
Figure 1 Figure 2
Printed velvet fabric Printed velvet fabric
at Premire Vision Fabrics at Premire Vision Fabrics
Figure 3 Figure 4
Jacquard and embroidered fabrics Brushed wool fabric and quilted effect
at Premire Vision Fabrics fabrics at Milano Unica
Figure 5 Figure 6
Devor velvet at Premire Vision Fabrics Flock printed fabric at Premire Vision Fabrics
Another pattern theme was Another pattern theme for textures and prints was introduced under the
Digital Blur, which was name Digital Blur. This was inspired by electronic motifs such as
inspired by electronic motifs printed circuit boards, halos of light and neon strip lighting.
Yet another technically Yet another pattern with a technical inspiration was a design
inspired pattern was a representing enlarged pixels on a screen in what appeared to be
design representing pointillisma technique of painting in distinct dots of colour to form
enlarged pixels on a screen, an image or pattern.
and simple geometrical
patterns were in evidence Furthermore, simple geometrical patterns were in evidence.
Hand painting, brush strokes Also appearing in prints were hand painting, brush strokes and
and washes also appeared washesmany of which were combined with other motifs.
Scuba and spacer fabrics Techno fabrics were still important, and included varieties of scuba and
were important, bonding spacer fabrics.
techniques had been used
to create reversible, Bonding techniques had been used to create reversible, layered and
layered and sandwiched sandwiched fabrics.
fabrics, and laser cut
fabrics were prominent Laser cut fabrics were also prominent.
Techno fabrics had been Techno fabrics had also been given new dimensions with embroidery,
given new dimensions with sequins, over-printing or flocking.
embroidery, sequins, over-
printing, flocking and Another form of decoration was provided by needlepunchingin
needlepunching felting, or by punching wool through nylon.
Some exhibitors were offering Also, some exhibitors were offering leather needlepunched with
leather needlepunched with cashmere or mixtures of furs.
cashmere or mixtures of furs
PATTERN AND PRINT
Patterns are important in Patterns and prints are importantnot only in lightweight fabrics but
fabrics with substance as also in weightier fabrics with substance and they are especially
well as lightweight fabrics important in fabrics which are suitable for jackets.
There is a lot of innovation The jacket sector, and outerwear in general, is an area in which there is
in the fabrics used in the a lot of innovation in the fabrics usedfor mens wear and for womens
jacket sector wear.
Prints had been applied to At the fairs, prints had been applied to brushed wools and felts, grainy
brushed wools, felts, grainy fabrics, velvets and cottons.
fabrics, velvets and cottons,
and burn-out prints and Also, burn-out prints had been used, as had laser cutting, to create
laser cutting had been used transparency which contrasted with solidity.
Design themes for prints The design themes for printed fabrics included many paisley or carpet
included paisley or carpet in- inspired designs and cravat motifs (Figure 7 and Figure 8).
spired designs, cravat motifs,
abstracts, collages, big florals, There were also abstracts, collages, big florals, nature-inspired textures
nature-inspired textures and and photographic effects (Figure 9 and Figure 10).
photographic effects
Figure 7
Printed carpet inspired design at Premire Vision Fabrics
Woven and knitted jacquards Woven and knitted jacquards were being widely offered, for day wear
were being widely offered and for evening wear.
Jacquards were being offered Jacquards were being offered in small patterns and in very big
in small and big patterns, patterns.
and some were also quilted
and blistered in cloqu Some were also quilted and blistered, in cloqu effects and in double
effects and double cloths cloths.
Also, some jacquards In addition, a number of jacquards were decorated with fancy yarn in
were decorated with fancy fil coup effects, or were decorated with floating wefts of big thick
yarn or floating wefts yarns or boucl yarns.
A wide range of patterns A wide range of patterns was on offer, including huge florals and
was on offer paisleys, folk patterns, carpet inspired designs, geometrics and graffiti
effects (Figure 11).
Figure 8 Figure 9
Printed carpet inspired design Printed floral fabric
at Premire Vision Fabrics at Premire Vision Fabrics
Figure 10 Figure 11
Printed paisley pattern with floral design Jacquard fabrics
at Premire Vision Fabrics at Premire Vision Fabrics
There was demand for There was demand for jacquards which had been engineered to fit a
jacquards which had particular garment. Examples of these included border patterns for
been engineered to fit a skirts, each of which had been adjusted to the size or length of a
particular garment particular skirt (Figure 12).
These fabrics were being These special jacquard fabrics were being offered in geometric folk
offered in geometric folk designs engineered in bands of pattern by the French mill Dutel
designs engineered in Cration (Figure 13). They were also being offered by the Italian mill
bands of pattern Monteoliveto.
Paisleys and little cravat Paisleys and little cravat patterns were being offered in prints and in
patterns were being jacquards.
offered in prints and
jacquards, and some were In some cases, these paisleys and little cravat patterns appeared in bands
in bands across the fabric across the fabric.
Figure 12 Figure 13
Engineered jacquard designs Jacquard fabrics by Dutel Cration
at Milano Unica at Milano Unica
Ratti had paisley jacquards Ratti of Italy had stunning examples of paisley jacquards in silks and a
in silks and a mix of mix of different yarns (Figure 14).
different yarns, as well as
overprinted jacquards Also, the company was offering jacquards which had been overprinted.
Jacquards were also being Jacquards were also being offered in applications which were more
offered in applications silky and dressy, in gauzey cloqus, in big and small patterns.
which were more silky and
dressy, in gauzey cloqus In some cases, these gauzey cloqus included fil coup effects.
Henry Bertrand had cloqu Henry Bertrand, a UK-based company, had some magnificent
jacquards in huge florals cloqu jacquards in huge florals and paisleys.
and paisleys and other
decorative motifs The company also had cloqu jacquards in other decorative motifs
(Figure 15).
Many jacquard fabrics Many jacquard fabrics were decorated with fil coup effects, and
were decorated with fil many used thick fancy yarns as the weft. The yarns were cut after
coup effects weaving.
Graphic patterns in black and Graphic patterns in black and white continued to feature in jacquards
white continued to feature and printsin swirling graphic patterns, abstracts and textures.
Stephen Walters had new The UK silk mill Stephen Walters had new jacquards in wool and
jacquards in wool and cotton for jackets and coats in a number of striking designs.
cotton for jackets and
coats in a number of These designs included Japanese blossom, big painterly stripes,
striking designs abstracts and giant photographs.
Figure 14 Figure 15
Printed fabrics by Ratti Silk cloqu jacquards by Henry Bertrand
at Premire Vision Fabrics at Premire Vision Fabrics
Vanners had heavier Another UK silk mill, Vanners, had heavier jacquards in wool and
jacquards in wool and silk silkincluding a big archive photo from China.
Adamley has revived its Adamleya silk mill based in Macclesfield, a town with a long
Adamley Silk brand and was tradition of silk textileshas revived the brand Adamley Silk.
showing neckwear in jacqu-
ards and prints, classic cravat The mill was showing neckwear at Milano Unica in silk jacquards and
type patterns and paisleys prints, in classic cravat type patterns and in paisleys.
Jacquards were also being Jacquards were also being offered at Milano Unica in techno sports
offered in techno sports fabrics.
fabrics, such as those
shown by Limonta The Italian mill Limonta, for instance, had graphic jacquards in
synthetic, flat, double cloth weaves in monotone textures or small
patterns.
Liberty Art Fabrics chose The UK company Liberty Art Fabrics chose The Silk Road as its theme.
The Silk Road as its theme This gave it an opportunity to refer to its heritage as a pioneer in the
European importation of Oriental silk.
Its prints included oriental The companys prints included oriental florals, Turkish tile patterns,
florals, Turkish tile patterns, patterns taken from embroidered Central Asian Suzani designs3 and
patterns taken from Suzani filigree work (see Glossary).
designs and filigree work
3
Suzani is a type of embroidered and decorative tribal textile made in Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan and
other Central Asian countries. Suzani is from the Persian word Suzan, which means needle. The art of making
such textiles in Iran is called Suzandozi, which means needlework. Suzanis usually have a fabric base made from
cottonalthough it is sometimes made from silkwhich is embroidered in silk or cotton thread. The primary
stitches used are buttonhole stitches, chain stitches and satin stitches. There is also extensive use of couching, in
which decorative thread is laid on the fabric as a raised line and stitched in place with a second thread. Suzanis
are often made in two or more pieces which are then stitched together. Popular design motifs include: fish and
birds; flowers, especially tulips, carnations and irises; fruits, especially pomegranates; leaves and vines; and sun
and moon disks.
all of which resulted from These patterns were all the result of an expedition by the Liberty design
an expedition to Istanbul department to Istanbul in Turkey, and to the Topkapi museum in
particular.
The company has been expan- Liberty Art Fabrics has been updating and expanding its print bases to
ding its print bases to suit a suit a wider range of customers.
wider range of customers, and
new cloths include hammered New cloths in the Liberty collection include prints on hammered silk,
silk, silk chiffon and heavier silk chiffon and heavier weight wool blends, such as a wool/viscose
weight wool blends jersey.
Liberty also has prints Liberty also has prints on velvet, stretch satin and a silk/wool
on velvet, stretch satin ottoman.
and a silk/wool ottoman
and is offering digitally In addition, it is offering a digitally printed cowhide, which is a real
printed cowhide innovation.
Lace, guipure and fine Lace, guipure and fine crochet continue to play an important role among
crochet are important the decorative fantasy fabrics seen throughout the fairs.
among decorative fantasy
fabrics, and lace also Lace also features in bonded fabrics, which have been laminated or
features in bonded fabrics given some kind of finish that makes them reversible.
Decoration in the form of Decoration in the form of heavy embroideries is being added to fabric
heavy embroideries is being surfaces, including wools and jacquards.
added to fabric surfaces,
and decoration is even being Decoration is even being added to suiting fabrics, giving them added
added to suiting fabrics value and a new handle.
Albert Guegain Broderies is The French mill Albert Guegain Broderies is offering beautiful
offering beautiful embroi- embroideries on different clothsincluding wool flannel and tulle.
deries on different cloths
WOOLS AND TWEEDS
There was a strong There was a strong showing of wool fabrics at the fairs. These included
showing of wool fine merino suit and jacket fabrics, colourful tweeds, flannels, plaids,
fabrics at the fairs and soft, brushed coat fabrics.
Fabrics had texture and Overall, fabrics had texture, and constructions included micro weaves
included micro weaves and luggage style fabrics in small weave patterns.
Several open structured Several mills had given these open structured fabrics a washed
fabrics had a washed finish.
finish, one example being
a leno weave in cashmere One example was a leno weave in cashmere which was being offered by
by Loro Piana the Italian cashmere specialist Loro Piana.
Tweeds for womens wear Tweeds for womens wear were complex in their design. Chanel type
were complex in their fancy tweeds seemed particularly in evidence among ranges for the
design, and Chanel type autumn/winter 2016/17 season (Figure 16).
fancy tweeds were evident
in colourful, irregular These Chanel type tweeds are mostly in colourful, somewhat irregular
fabrics in a variety of fabrics in a variety of fibre typesincluding wool and wool blends.
fibre types, highlighted
with fancy yarns, stitching Their designs are complex, and are highlighted with fancy yarns,
and decoration stitching and decoration.
Figure 16
Woven fancy Chanel type
tweeds at Premire Vision Fabrics
Malhia Kent had woven The French mill Malhia Kent, which showed at Premire Vision
creative fancy fabrics Fabrics, had woven many creative fancy fabrics for haute couture based
based on Chanel tweed on original Chanel tweed.
One of its themes for the Its collections combined craft with modernity, and one of its themes for
season was a jeans the autumn/winter 2016/17 season was a jeans story in indigo
story in indigo colours colours.
Fabrics were woven with In addition, the fabrics on display included those woven with different
creative finishes, such as creative finishes, such as fringing and cut wefts, and with many
fringing and cut wefts, and different types of fancy yarns insertedincluding cellophane, Lurex
with fancy yarns inserted and raffia.
and jacquards were Also in Malhia Kents collection were jacquards based on carpet
based on carpet designs designs in a variety of yarns.
Many European mills are Many European mills are including superfine merinowhich is
using superfine merino along- regarded as a luxury fibrealongside, or instead of, noble fibres such
side or instead of noble fibres as cashmere.
Mills are also using Mills are also using merino in blends with cashmere, vicuna, silk or
merino in blends alpaca.
Companies are increasingly Many companies emphasise the growing importance of designing in
designing in cooperation cooperation with their customers.
with customers in order to
produce fabrics with Their aim is to produce fabrics with individual features which stand out
individual features in order to give them an air of exclusivity.
Dormeuil is offering a suit The French company Dormeuil has introduced a classic suit or jacket
or jacket fabric made with fabric made with the finest 15.7 micron merino wool from New Zealand
fine merino wool which which provides comfort stretch.
provides comfort stretch,
and Cashasilk fabric which Also in the Dormeuil collection is a jacket fabric called Cashasilk
combines fine Mongolian which is produced from a combination of fine Mongolian cashmere
cashmere with silk and silk.
Fine wool suit fabrics Fine wool suit fabrics which are normally intended for mens wear are
normally intended for also being used for womens wear. This is a trend to watch.
mens wear are also being
used for womens wear, Lanificio F.lli Cerruti of Italy makes fine suitings and flannels with
including fine suitings and natural stretch in high twist yarn which are intended for mens wear and
flannels from Lanificio womens wear. One notable example at the fairs was an extremely fine
F.lli Cerruti and soft wool/alpaca blend coat fabric with a furry pile finish.
Loro Piana is offering The Italian cashmere specialist Loro Piana is offering fabrics made
fabrics made from luxury from a wide range of luxury fibre blends, including wool/cashmere
fibre blends, including flannels.
wool/cashmere flannels
and fabrics made from It is also offering fabrics made from baby alpaca in blends, some of
baby alpaca blends and which are lightly felted, as well as tweeds in a mix of wool and
wool/alpaca tweeds alpaca.
Solbiati is offering flannels The linen specialist Solbiati, now owned by Loro Piana, is offering
in beautiful fine wool and beautiful fine wool flannels as well as those in wool/silk blends which
wool/silk blends, and linen are quite different from the pure linen fabrics for which the company is
in blends with wool or best known. But it still uses linen in blends with wool or cashmere for
cashmere its winter range.
Linen is being used Linen is being used increasingly in fabric for winter, although it is being
increasingly in fabric for offered mostly in blends with other fibres such as wool or cashmere.
winter but mostly in blends
with other fibres such as Linen is suitable for winter as it is a thermoregulating fibre and provides
wool or cashmere gentle warmth.
Colourful jacket fabrics in New, more colourful designs of jacket fabrics were important at the
wool and wool blends were fairsin wool and wool blends.
important at the fairs, some
in Donegal yarns or jasp Some of these fabrics were in Donegal yarns or in jasp twists and
twists and moulin effects moulin effects.
There were also bright There were also bright windowpane checks which highlighted darker
windowpane checks backgrounds.
Also important for mens Also hugely important for mens wear are coarser, more traditional
wear are coarser, traditional wools and tweeds, including gamekeeper tweeds.
wools and tweeds, including
gamekeeper tweeds Particularly important were tweeds manufactured by British mills.
British mills, which often British millswhich often base their ranges on their British heritage,
base their ranges on their such as fabric made with Shetland yarns and Harris Tweed which is
British heritage using made from locally grown wooldid good business at the fairs.
locally grown wool, did
good business at the fairs These British mills have managed to maintain their own individual
identitiesincluding mills which have been taken over by other
companies.
Marling & Evans received a For example, the UK mill Marling & Evanswhich was purchased in
good response to traditional September 2015 by the Italian company Lanificio Angelicoreceived
wools and tweeds it had a good response to traditional wools and tweeds it had made using wool
made using wool obtained obtained from British bred sheep . The mill was exhibiting at Ideabiella
from British bred sheep for the second time.
Particularly successful was A big success for Marling & Evans was a jacket fabric made from
a jacket fabric made from undyed Jacobs fleece yarn which formed part of its Naturals range.
undyed Jacobs fleece yarn
in its Naturals range Also in this range were undyed fabrics made from Shetland and Welsh
Black fleeces.
Fox Brothers, another UK Fox Brothers, another UK mill, was offering a vintage look in wool
mill, was offering a vintage fabrics for jackets and suitsincluding a chalk stripe, which is back in
look in wool fabrics fashion.
Fox Brothers flannels Fox Brothers is well known for its flannels. These have a fluid quality
were proving popular, and come in a range of colours, and were proving especially popular at
alongside a 50% wool/ the fairs.
50% cotton cloth for
blazers which has a look Also popular was a 50% wool/50% cotton cloth which is suitable for
similar to denim when it blazers and has a look similar to denim when it is cross-dyed (see
is cross-dyed cross-dyeing on page 188 of the Glossary).
Fox Brothers was using As in the case of Marling & Evans, Fox Brothers was using British
British fleeces from fleeces but in the case of Fox Brothers these were obtained from
Wensleydale sheep Wensleydale sheep.
Coat fabrics for mens Coat fabrics represent an important component of the market for mens
wear were being offered in wear fabrics.
wool and blends of wool
with luxury fibres, many in They were being offered at the fairs in wool and blends of wool with
brushed or raised qualities, luxury fibres, and many were in brushed or raised qualities.
and were also being
offered in tweeds Coat fabrics were also being offered in tweeds.
Cerruti was offering Cerruti was offering exclusive luxury coat fabrics in cashmere/wool
exclusive luxury coat blends, pure cashmere and suri alpacaa breed of alpaca which
fabrics in cashmere/wool produces long, shiny fibre.
blends, pure cashmere
and suri alpaca while The UK cashmere specialist Joshua Ellis, which forms part of SIL
Joshua Ellis was offering Holdings Group of Bradford, was offering pure cashmere flannels and
pure cashmere flannels coat fabrics and a range a baby cashmere/vicuna fabricswhich is the
and coat fabrics and baby softest coat cloth available. Joshua Ellis also uses yarn from British bred
cashmere/vicuna fabrics alpaca.
Johnstons of Elgin was Johnstons of Elgin, another UK cashmere specialist, was offering
offering wool/cashmere wool/cashmere blends and tweeds, such as estate tweeds.
blends and tweeds, and a
cashmere/wool woven It was also offering a cashmere/wool woven double cloth which looks
double cloth which looks like a knitted fabric, as well as voluminous coat fabrics in cashmere
like a knitted fabric blends.
It was also offering In addition, Johnstons was offering cashmere woven jacquards in a
cashmere woven jacquards range of designs, including double cloth patterns.
The Chanel tweed influence The UK mill Neill Johnstone, another SIL Holdings Group
was obvious in a range of company, specialises in offering a high degree of fancy creativity in
jacket fabrics with boucl and tweeds.
Donegal effects from Neill
Johnstone, a specialist in The Chanel tweed influence was obvious in the companys range of
fancy creativity in tweeds jacket fabrics with boucl and Donegal effects.
Goldentex, part of Egypt- One example of these companies was Goldentex, part of the Egypt-
based Arafa, was offering based fabric and garment group Arafa.
a range of suit fabrics
woven from wool and Goldentex was offering a range of suit fabrics woven in Egypt from
wool blend yarns wool and wool blend yarns.
and offering its Heritage It was also offering a Heritage range in merino wool, as well as camel
range in merino wool and blends.
camel blends, which
included pure wool barathea, These fabrics included pure wool barathea, superfine wool jacket
superfine wool jacket fabrics fabrics and checked double cloths.
and checked double cloths
JERSEY FABRICS FOR TAILORING
Jersey fabrics for tailoring Jersey fabrics for tailoring are becoming increasingly popularfor
are becoming popular and mens wear and womens wear.
jackets and coats are ex-
pected to be strong fashion This increase in popularity is particularly relevant to the autumn/winter
items in the autumn/ 2016/17 season as jackets and coats are expected to be strong fashion
winter 2016/17 season items during the season.
Many are made from wool Many of these jersey tailoring fabrics are made from wool, while
while some are made from some are made from wool mixed with cotton, cashmere, viscose or
wool mixed with other fibres polyester.
Coat fabrics in jerseys in full Coat fabrics in jerseys in full brushed qualities are importantdespite
brushed qualities, felted recent mild winters.
knits and drawn brushed
mohairs are important They are also important in felted knits and drawn brushed mohairs.
At the fairs, Dondi Jersey The Italian company Dondi Jersey has become well established in the
was offering new flannels, market for jerseys for mens wear.
micro jacquards similar
to tie designs and micro At the fairs, the company was offering new flannels, micro jacquards
patterns which look which are similar to tie designsblue is the newest colourand micro
woven patterns which look woven (Figure 17).
OJersey had a more OJersey, another company based in Italy, had a more formal mens
formal mens wear range wear rangewhich included stripes and micro patterns, checks and
which included stripes and woolly boucl surfaces.
micro patterns, checks and
woolly boucl surfaces Bonded jersey layers were reversible for a more sporty or casual look
(Figure 18).
Figure 17 Figure 18
Jersey wool fabric for tailoring Jersey fabric imitating a woven check
by Dondi Jersey at Milano Unica by OJersey at Milano Unica
Lanificio Angelicos Ke Idea Lanificio Angelico had a collection of jerseys, called Ke Idea, which
collection included wool included wool jersey flannel qualities suitable for tailoring.
jersey flannels for tailoring in
extra-fine wools and blends These were made in extra-fine wools and blends in double
in double jersey, including a jerseyincluding a quilted fabricand in boiled and felted wools.
quilted fabric, and in boiled
and felted wools The fabrics are suitable for mens wear and womens wear.
Also novel was a needle- Another novelty from Angelico was a double face fabric created
punched double face fabric through needlepunching.
Surface effects are Surface effects are important in terry constructions. These include cut
important in terry out patterns, which have the effect of burn-out patterns, as well as
constructions brushed and velour pile jerseys.
Jackytexs collection inclu- In the collection offered by the Italian jersey company Jackytex, boucl
des boucl surfaces and surfaces and mohair have been brushed to produce soft, warm furry
mohair brushed to produce jerseys. These furry jerseys are also offered in large stripes.
soft, warm furry jerseys as
well as velvets, some devor Jackytexs collection also includes stunning velvet fabrics which are
printed, similar to sealskin similar to sealskin, and some of these have been devor printed.
Mesh jerseys still featured Mesh jerseys still featured at the fairs in ranges for autumn/winter
at the fairs, and spacer 2016/17.
fabrics and scuba fabrics
continue to be fashionable So did spacer fabrics and scuba fabrics, which continue to be
fashionable.
Some spacer and scuba These spacer and scuba fabrics were intended not only for sportswear
fabrics were bonded to but also for many other end uses.
create a reversible effect
with different colours and In some cases they were being used in bonded fabrics to create a
some were also overprinted reversible effect with different colours. Some were also overprinted
(Figure 19).
Figure 19
Printed sportswear fabrics at Premire Vision Fabrics
Eurojersey was offering 12 The Italian company Eurojersey was offering 12 different styles of
styles of trouser fabric in its trouser fabric in its Sensitive range of jersey fabrics.
Sensitive jersey fabric range,
claiming that the fabric offers Eurojersey claims that the fabric offers extra comfort and versatility as
extra comfort and versatility well as wrinkle-free performance, thereby adding to its suitability for
and wrinkle-free performance tailoring.
The fabric was in different The fabric was being offered at the fairs in different weights, and
weights and bonded versions included bonded versions.
Samples of trousers made Specimen samples of trousers made from the fabric were smooth and
from the fabric were smooth fitted well.
and fitted well, and stitching
had been replaced by heat- Stitching had been replaced by special heat-sealed taping applied with
sealed taping applied with a a body mapping effect on the fabric.
body mapping effect to
provide an ultra-flat surface This technique was said to provide an ultra-flat surface and hence extra
and hence extra comfort comfort.
The Woolmark Company The Woolmark Company was promoting some new developments and
was promoting new tech- techniques developed in China for the processing of wool fabrics.
niques and developments
for processing wool fabrics, One development, called Mottled Merino, results in the creation of a
including Mottled Merino, casual, relaxed wool fabric with a mottled or vintage appearance when
which uses a special yarn felted.
to create a casual relaxed
wool fabric with a mottled A special yarn is created by mixing fibre which has been given an anti-
or vintage appearance felting treatment with untreated fibre. Fabric made from the yarn is
when felted milled, resulting in a textured and mottled aspect.
Another Woolmark Another Woolmark development is Knitted Denim, made with indigo
development is Knitted dyed wool yarns.
Denim which uses cold-dye
reactive dyeing systems to The development has been made possible by the advent of cold-dye
create indigo dyed wool reactive dyeing systems for cotton and wool which facilitate the
yarns that can be knitted creation of denim-like wool yarns that can be knitted or woven.
or woven and allow
colours to fade during The dyeing process allows the colours to fade during garment washing.
garment washing
SHIRTINGS
Shirting fabrics are being Shirting fabrics have become important fashion items, for men and for
used for shirts and for women. Furthermore, the fabrics are being used not only for shirts but
womens wear generally also for womens wear generally.
Popular qualities at the fairs At the fairs for autumn/winter 2016/17, popular qualities ranged
ranged from the highest qua- from the highest quality cottons to heavier, softened mlange cotton
lity cottons to softened ml- flannels.
ange cotton flannels and many
were in checks and plaids Many of these fabrics were in checks and plaids.
There were also jeans In addition, there were lighter weight jeans type shirt fabrics in
type shirt fabrics in cotton cotton.
Stripes are back in fashion Stripes are back in fashion for autumn/winter 2016/17.
and those at the fairs had
been achieved by yarn Those on show at the fairs had been achieved by means of yarn dyeing
dyeing or printing or printing, and many of the fabrics were decorated with small dobby
spots.
Colours were washed out and Colours were slightly washed out, and in some cases they were softened
some softened with mlange with mlange yarns.
yarns, the latter also having
been used in tartans and These mlange yarns were also used in classic tartans and warm flannel
warm flannel checks checks.
There was a folk element in A folk element was evident in the woven dobby patterns and prints on
woven dobby patterns and show at the fairs.
prints, and designs had
also been inspired by Designs had also been inspired by ethnic rug patterns and enhanced by
ethnic rug patterns the use of mlange yarns and boucl yarns.
Stripes and mlange were Stripes and mlange were important elements in collections by the
important in collections by Italian specialist shirting weaver Cotonificio Albini.
Cotonificio Albini and
many of the stripes had a Many of the stripes had a regimental feel which had been inspired by
regimental feel English military uniforms and classic tie designs.
Stripes from Albini Donna Stripes were also important in womens wear collections, as in the case
for womens wear were in of those exhibited by Albini Donna.
contrasting colours and made
more feminine through a The stripes for womens wear were in contrasting colours and were
play on transparency made more feminine through a play on transparency.
In mlange yarns, black was In mlange yarns, black had been paired with colours which are in
paired with fashion colours fashion.
Denim shirtings and In the case of the Albiate 1830 denim collection, denim shirtings and
chambrays by Albiate 1830 chambrays had been given different treatments, including overprinting.
had been given different
treatments, including In particular, different prints, including a print resembling paint
overprinting splatters, had been overprinted on checks in flannel (Figure 20).
Figure 20
Shirtings by Albiate 1830
at Milano Unica Shirt Avenue
The range also included The Albiate 1830 range also included denim jacquards and, in addition,
denim jacquards and prints it included prints on denim which had the appearance of jacquard
which looked like jacquards fabrics.
Also important was a mlange Also important at the fairs was a mlange flannel look in chambray
flannel look in chambray shirtings, some of which were also being offered in checks.
shirtings, some of which were
also being offered in checks Some of the chambray shirtings on show were decorated with fil coup
and some of which were effects, dobby spots and folksy patterns, and all of these were available
decorated with special effects with a washed finish.
Printed shirtings, such as Printed shirtings are increasingly important for mens weara
those offered by Testa, are development which is largely due to the spread of digital printing4.
increasingly important for
mens wear due to the The Italian shirting company Testa, for example, was offering a new
spread of digital printing line at the fairs, called Texta, in a range of printed shirtings.
Ratti Uomo was offering a Ratti Uomo of Italy was offering a new range of sporty fabrics for
new range of sporty fabrics mens wear in cottons and synthetic fibres with different finishes.
with different finishes, some
of which confer certain Some of the finishes confer certain performance properties to the
performance properties fabrics.
It also had new base fabrics The company was also offering a number of new base fabrics and print
and print effects such as a effects.
cotton/wool base cloth
which had been discharge Among these was a cotton/wool base cloth which had been
printed, and a pigment discharge printed, and a cotton flannel which had been pigment printed
printed cotton flannel with water drops.
Other items included real Another new item was real leather which had been printed to produce
leather printed to produce a a blister effect in checks and stripes.
blister effect in checks and
stripes, quilted fleece There were also quilted fleece fabrics, bonded reversible fabrics and a
fabrics, bonded reversible heavy brushed cotton-like moleskin.
fabrics and a heavy brushed
cotton-like moleskin The latter was also being offered in a printed version.
A number of Turkish cotton A number of Turkish cotton shirting mills were offering excellent
shirting mills, including quality products.
Kipa and Shamrock
Tekstil, were offering These mills included Kipa and Shamrock Tekstil, both of which had
excellent quality products fine cottons in classic stripes, dobby pattern spots, double cloth patterns
and cravat patterns.
4
See also Editorial: Heimtextil 2016 shows the latest home textiles and hosts a digital textile printing
conference for the third year running, starting on page 4 of this issue.
Skta had an indigo fabric Another Turkish mill, Skta, had a very popular indigo fabric
collection in washed out collection in washed out blues which had been designed for jackets and
blues for jackets and trousers.
trousers, as well as blends of
cotton with linen or silk, Also in the Skta collection were blends of cotton with linen or silk,
heavier weight cottons in heavier weight cottons in piqu constructions and dobby patterns, and
piqu constructions and a few shirtings made from recycled cotton.
dobby patterns, and shirtings
made from recycled cotton
World textile and clothing trade rose by 4.4% to a record high of US$797 bn in 2014the latest year
for which comprehensive data are availablefollowing an 8.6% increase in the previous year. The rise
in 2014 reflected a 3.3% increase in textile trade and a 5.1% increase in clothing trade. Geographically,
the rise in textile and clothing trade was reflected in growth in almost all the major trade flows. In
textiles, the fastest growing trade flow was that of exports from Asia to Africa (up by 7.5%), followed by
exports from Asia to Europe (up by 6.5%). In clothing, the fastest growing trade flow was again that of
exports from Asia to Africa (up by 27.5%), followed by exports from Asia to the Middle East (up by
13.4%) and exports from Asia to Europe (up by 10.8%). However, there was a decline in intra-Asian
trade (down by 1.6%).
The USA continued to have a deficit in its textile and clothing trade and, at US$100.96 bn, the deficit was
at a record high. The EU also continued to have a deficit in its textile and clothing trade, and this was
up by a sharp 12.7% to US$80.02 bn. However, the EUs deficit in 2014 remained lower than it had been
in 2011. Japans deficit, on the other hand, fell for the first time in 12 years, to US$33.04 bn. Offsetting
these deficits, China was the country with the worlds largest textile and clothing trade surplus, followed
by India, Bangladesh and Turkey.
The worlds largest textile exporter was China with a 36% share of world textile exports, followed by
the EU, India, the USA, Turkey, South Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Pakistan and Japan. The largest
textile importer was the EU with a 25% share of world textile imports, followed by the USA with an 8%
sharebut China ranked as high as third with a share of 6%. Next in importance was Vietnam, followed
by Hong Kong, Japan, Turkey, Bangladesh, Mexico and Indonesia.
The worlds largest clothing exporter was China with a 39% share of world clothing exports, followed
by the EU, Bangladesh, Hong Kong, Vietnam, India, Turkey, Indonesia, the USA and Cambodia. The
worlds largest clothing importer was the EU with a 38% share of world clothing imports while the USA
took 18% and Japan 6%. Next in importance was Hong Kong, followed by Canada, Russia, South Korea,
Australia, Switzerland and China. But each of these seven importers had only a small share of world
clothing imports.
However, the rise However, the rise represented a slowdown compared with growth of
represented a slowdown 8.6% in the previous year. In fact, the rise represented the slowest
compared with growth of increase in trade since 1998although there were declines in trade in
8.6% in the previous year 1999, 2001, 2009 and 2012.
Textile trade increased by The rise in world textile and clothing trade in 2014 reflected a 3.3%
3.3% and clothing trade increase in textile trade, to US$314 bn, and a 5.1% increase in clothing
by 5.1% in 2014 trade, to US$483 bn (Table 1).
As a result, the share of As a result, the share of textile trade in total textile and clothing trade
textiles in total textile and fell from 39.8% to 39.4% while the share of clothing trade rose from
clothing trade fell to 60.2% to 60.6%.
39.4% while the share of
clothing rose to 60.6% Table 1: World trade in textiles and clothing, 2014
Textiles Clothing
Value (US$ bn) 314 483
Annual average % change
1980-85 -1 4
1985-90 15 18
1990-95 8 8
1995-2000 0 5
2000-05 6 7
2006/05 8 11
2007/06 9 12
2008/07 5 5
2009/08 -15 -13
2010/09 20 12
2011/10 17 18
2012/11 -4 0
2013/12 7 10
2014/13 3 5
% of world merchandise trade 1.7 2.5
% of world exports of manufactures 2.6 3.9
Source: World Trade Organization (WTO).
In 2015 global In 2015 global merchandise trade is estimated to have accelerated, and
merchandise trade is in 2016 it is forecast to grow at an even faster rate.
estimated to have
accelerated, and in 2016 it In volume terms, exports are estimated to have risen by 2.8% in 2015,
is forecast to grow at an having increased by 2.5% in 2014, and they are forecast to rise by 3.9%
even faster rate in 2016.
Having said that, the Having said that, the figures for 2015 and 2016which were published
figures for 2015 and 2016, in September 2015represent downward revisions compared with the
which were published in growth forecasts published in April 2015.
September 2015,
represent downward The revisions reflect a number of factors which weighed on the global
revisions compared with economy in the first half of 2015, including:
the growth forecasts
published in April 2015 a slowdown in demand for imports in China and a number of other
for a number of reasons emerging markets;
Furthermore, there are Furthermore, there are several other factors which could affect growth
several other factors which in merchandise trade in the coming months, including:
could affect growth in
merchandise trade in the a sharper than expected slowdown in economic growth in
coming months developing economies;
a 0.25 percentage point rise in the interest rate in the USA in
December 2015; and
unanticipated costs associated with the migration crisis in
Europe.
In the case of clothing in In the case of clothing in particular, trade could be affected by a
particular, trade could be slowdown in consumer expenditure. Indeed, global expenditure on
affected by a slowdown in clothing and footwear is estimated to have declined by 5.8% in US
consumer expenditure on dollar terms in 2015 to its lowest level since 2011, according to the
clothing and footwear in Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU). That said, the decline was due
2015, although growth is largely to fluctuations in currency exchange rates and, in particular, an
set to resume in 2016 and increase in the strength of the US dollar against most other major
accelerate during 2017-19, currencies.
and this should lead to a
pick-up in global clothing Furthermore, growth is forecast to resume in 2016 and accelerate
trade during 2017-19. This should lead to a pick-up in global clothing
trade.
Also expected to contribute Also expected to contribute to a pick-up in global clothing trade are the
to a pick-up in global low prices of oil and raw materials seen throughout much of 2015 (see
clothing trade are the low footnote 1 and footnote 2).
prices of oil and raw
materials seen throughout It is expected that the low prices of raw materials will have filtered
much of 2015 through the supply chain3 by 2016 and this could lead to a drop in unit
prices.
1
Between June 2014 and January 2015, the average monthly price of Brent crude oil plunged by 57.3%, from
US$112 a barrel to US$48 a barrel. The average price rebounded in February 2015 and recovered somewhat to
reach US$64 a barrel in May 2015. However, it began to fall once more and by mid-January 2016 it had sunk
below US$30 a barrel.
2
Between March 2014 and December 2014, the Cotlook A Index fell by 30.5%, from 97 US cents/lb to
67 US cents/lb. Since then there has been little change and in December 2015 it averaged 70 US cents/lb. The
Cotlook A Index is a measure of the price of cotton whose fibre quality and staple length match or exceed those
of middling 1-3/32 inch, a grade which is usually used for medium count yarns. Middling is one of several
colour grades specified by the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) for upland cotton. From best to worst, the
grades are good middling, strict middling, middling, strict low middling, low middling, strict good ordinary and
good ordinary.
3
For more information, see: The Effect of Rises in Cotton Fibre Prices on Textile and Apparel Prices in the
Supply Chain, Textile Outlook International, No 157, August 2012; and Editorial: US apparel retailers hold on
to their price gains after the cotton price hike, Textile Outlook International, No 174, May 2015.
But it remains to be seen Having said that, it remains to be seen whether there will be a noticeable
whether there will be a drop in unit prices, given that energy costs, labour costs and costs
noticeable drop in unit associated with social compliance continue to increase.
prices given that other
costs continue to increase Furthermore, even if overall costs to manufacturers decline, the
and manufacturers may manufacturers may take the opportunity presented by the decline to
choose to improve their improve their margins.
margins instead
TEXTILE TRADE FLOWS
In textiles, there were Regionally, there were increases in all of the worlds seven major textile
increases in all of the trade flows in 2014.
worlds seven major trade
flows in 2014 However, growth slowed compared with the previous year in all but one
of these seven major textile trade flows (Table 2).
Table 2: Major regional flows in world exports of textiles and clothing, 2005-14
Intra-Asian textile Intra-Asian textile trade rose by 2.3% to US$88.3 bn in 2014. The rise
trade growth slowed to was the fifth in succession following increases of 10.8% in 2013, 1.1%
just 2.3% in 2014 in 2012, 18.2% in 2011 and 26.3% in 2010.
This represented the However, the rise in 2014 represented a sharp slowdown compared with
slowest growth rate among the increase in 2013 and was the slowest among the seven major textile
the seven major textile trade flows.
trade flows but intra-Asian
textile trade remained the Nevertheless, intra-Asian textile trade remained the worlds largest
largest textile trade flow textile trade flow.
Textile exports from Asia Textile exports from Asia to Europe increased by 6.5% to US$30.1 bn
to Europe increased by in 2014 following a 9.8% rise in 2013. The latter came after an 11.1%
6.5% to a record high in decline in 2012. Nevertheless, textile exports from Asia to Europe
2014 and continued to reached a record high in 2014, having surpassed the previous peak
constitute the worlds third reached in 2011. Also, they continued to constitute the worlds third
largest textile trade flow largest textile trade flow.
Furthermore, exports Furthermore, the decline in 2012 came after increases of 18.7% in 2011
were more than double and 29.2% in 2010 as well as strong growth in the six years to 2008. As
their level just ten years a result, textile exports from Asia to Europe in 2014 were more than
earlier, in 2004 double their level just ten years earlier, in 2004.
Textile exports from Textile exports from Asia to North America, which represented the
Asia to North America fourth largest textile trade flow, increased by 2.9% to US$26.2 bn in
rose by 2.9% in 2014 2014 after rising by 7.0% in 2013, 2.9% in 2012, 12.8% in 2011 and
and reached a record 29.8% in 2010. As a result, they reached a record high for the fifth
high for the fifth consecutive year. Having said that, the increase in 2014 represented a
consecutive year sharp slowdown compared with the rise in 2013 and was the second
slowest among the seven major textile trade flows.
Textile exports from Textile exports from Asia to Africa rose by 7.5% to US$14.6 bn in
Asia to Africa rose by 2014. This represented an acceleration compared with growth of 6.1%
7.5% in 2014, which in 2013.
represented the fastest
increase among the In fact, it represented the only acceleration in growth among the worlds
seven major textile seven major textile trade flows. As a result, the rise in 2014 was the
trade flows fastest among these seven trade flows.
Furthermore, they Furthermore, the rise in 2014 represented the fifth in succession
reached a record high andas in the case of textile exports from Asia to North America
for the fifth consecutive textile exports from Asia to Africa reached a record high for the fifth
year and were worth consecutive year. In fact, the rise in 2014 represented the 13th in 14
more than five times as yearsthe exception being a 6.9% decline in 2009. Furthermore,
much in 2014 as they double digit increases were recorded in nine of those 13 years. As a
were in 2000 result, textile exports from Asia to Africa were worth more than five
times as much in 2014 as they were in 2000, having increased from
US$2.8 bn to US$14.6 bn.
In Sub-Saharan Africa, The African textile import market has grown significantly since the
demand for imported African Growth and Opportunity Act (Agoa) was implemented in 2000.
textiles has soared since The act was designed partly to boost garment manufacture in the region
the African Growth and by providing exporters in certain Sub-Saharan African countries with
Opportunity Act (Agoa) duty-free and quota-free access to the US market. Since its enactment,
was implemented in garment exports from a number of Sub-Saharan African countries have
2000 soared, garment production in the region has increased, and this has led
to greater demand for imported textile materials.
As well as encouraging However, as well as boosting garment manufacture, the act aims to
garment making, the act encourage the development of a complete supply chain in Sub-Saharan
aims to boost the regions Africa through the establishment of spinning, weaving, dyeing and
textile supply chain by speci- finishing facilities. The act therefore specifies that garments must be
fying that garments be made made from materials produced within the region (or in the USA) in
from local or US materials order to qualify for preferential access to the USA.
But in the meantime, That said, it was recognised when the act was drafted that the provision
garment makers need to be of locally available materials of the right quality, in the right quantities
able to source the most and at competitive prices was limited, and that the only way for
competitive materials from fledgling garment makers to develop was for them to source the most
anywhere in the world competitive materials worldwide without losing their preferential access
under Agoa.
So, under the third- The act therefore contained a so-called Special Apparel Provision, now
country fabric provision, known as the third-country fabric provision, which, for a limited period,
textiles made elsewhere provided garment makers in lesser-developed African countries4 with
can be used for a limited preferential access to the USA regardless of the origin of the yarns and
period fabrics used in their manufacture.
The third-country fabric The third-country fabric provision should have expired on
provision has been September 30, 2004, but it was extended until September 30, 2007.
extended four times to give
apparel makers some more It was then extended again until September 2012, and again until
breathing space, and allow September 30, 2015, and most recently it was extended until
more time for further September 30, 2025.
investment in the African
textile industry Such an extension has given hard-pressed apparel makers in the region
some more breathing spaceand has allowed more time for further
investment in the African textile industry.
This should improve the If such investment can be attracted, it should improve the regions
regions ability to make ability to make yarns and fabrics which meet international quality
yarns and fabrics which standards at competitive prices, while enabling the regions garment
meet international standards makers to satisfy the rules of origin of Agoa.
But African exports are The future of this trade remains uncertain, however. Garment
under threat as garment producers in Agoa countries have been struggling to compete
producers in Agoa countries especially with low cost Asian countriessince the global elimination
have been struggling to of quotas under the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) at the
compete end of 20045,6.
4
Lesser-developed countries are those with a gross national product per head of less than US$1,500 a year in
1998 as measured by the World Bank. Of all Agoa beneficiary countries, only South Africa does not qualify for
the third-country fabric provision.
5
Under the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC), quotas established under the Multi-Fibre Arrangement
(MFA)which ran from January 1974 to December 1994were phased out over a ten-year period ending
December 31, 2004.
6
See also Sourcing apparel from Kenya and Ethiopia, Textile Outlook International, No 173, February 2015.
A forthcoming report on the textile and clothing industry in Tanzania is planned for a future issue of Textile
Outlook International.
Textile exports from Asia Textile exports from Asia to the Middle East increased by 3.8% to
to the Middle East rose by US$11.8 bn in 2014 following a 7.1% rise in 2013. The rise in 2013
3.8% to a record high in came after a 3.7% decline in 2012.
2014 for the second conse-
cutive year and continued Nevertheless, textile exports from Asia to the Middle East reached a
to constitute the sixth record high in 2014 for the second consecutive year and continued to
largest textile trade flow constitute the sixth largest textile trade flow.
Clothing exports from Clothing exports from Asia to Europewhich constituted the second
Asia to Europe rose by largest clothing trade flowfollowed a similar pattern to intra-
10.8% to a record high in European clothing trade, having increased by 10.8% to US$88.2 bn in
2014 2014 after a 10.7% rise in 2013 and a 10.6% decline in 2012. As a
result, the value of this trade flow in 2014 also surpassed the previous
peak in 2011 to reach a record high.
Furthermore, they were Furthermore, the decline in 2012 came after increases of 24.3% in 2011
more than double their and 16.9% in 2010 as well as strong growth in the six years to 2008. As
level just nine years a result, textile exports from Asia to Europe in 2014 were more than
earlier, in 2005 double their level just nine years earlier, in 2005.
Clothing exports from Clothing exports from Asia to North America rose by 4.5% to
Asia to North America US$78.2 bn in 2014 following increases of 8.9% in 2013, 0.3% in 2012,
rose by 4.5% in 2014 and 11.1% in 2011 and 20.7% in 2010. As a result, clothing exports from
reached a record high for Asia to North America reached a record high for the fifth consecutive
the fifth consecutive year year and continued to constitute the third largest clothing trade flow.
Intra-Asian clothing trade Intra-Asian clothing trade declined by 1.6% to US$67.2 bn in 2014
declined by 1.6% in 2014 after growth had slowed to 12.1% in 2013 from 17.1% in 2012 and
after growth had slowed in 26.2% in 2011.
2013
The slowdown and decline The slowdown and subsequent decline in trade is likely to have been a
may have been a reflection reflection of a pick-up in Asian clothing exports to the traditional major
of a pick-up in exports to markets of the EU and the USA after exports to these markets had
the EU and the USA, declined or grown only minimally in 2012.
although it could also reflect
the economic slowdown in However, it could also be a reflection of the economic slowdown in a
developing Asian nations number of developing Asian nations.
Despite the decline, the Having said that, despite the decline in trade in 2014, the value of this
value of this trade flow in trade flow was still at its second highest level on record and, as a result,
2014 was still at its second intra-Asian clothing trade continued to constitute the fourth largest
highest level on record clothing trade flow.
Clothing exports from Asia Clothing exports from Asia to the Commonwealth of Independent
to the CIS rose by only States (CIS)7 rose by only 1.1% to US$17.1 bn in 2014. Apart from the
1.1% in 2014 although they decline in intra-Asian clothing trade, the rise in clothing exports from
reached a record high for Asia to the CIS was the slowest among the seven major clothing trade
the second consecutive year flows and represented a sharp slowdown compared with increases of
and continued to constitute 30.9% in 2013, 3.7% in 2012, 9.9% in 2011, and 26.6% in 2010.
the fifth largest clothing Nevertheless, clothing exports from Asia to the CIS reached a record
trade flow high in 2014 for the second consecutive year and continued to constitute
the fifth largest clothing trade flow.
Clothing exports from Asia Clothing exports from Asia to the Middle East rose by 13.4% to
to the Middle East rose by US$16.0 bn in 2014 following increases of 16.6% in 2013, 13.5% in
13.4% in 2014 and reached 2012, 26.2% in 2011 and 14.2% in 2010. As a result, they reached a
a record high for the fifth record high for the fifth consecutive year. Furthermore, the increase in
consecutive year 2014 represented the second fastest growth rate among the seven major
clothing trade flows.
Clothing exports from Asia Clothing exports from Asia to Africa surged by 27.5% to US$10.0 bn
to Africa surged by 27.5% in 2014. This represented by far the fastest increase among the seven
in 2014 and, as a result, major clothing trade flows during the year. As a result, this trade flow
this trade flow became the became the worlds seventh largest clothing trade flowahead of
worlds seventh largest clothing exports from South and Central America to North America,
which rose by only 4.0%.
Furthermore, between Furthermore, the surge in 2014 represented the 12th rise in 13 years.
2001 and 2014 exports Indeed, between 2001 and 2014 clothing exports from Asia to Africa
grew by an average of grew by an average of 19.0% per annum, or almost ten-fold, from
19.0% per annum US$1.0 bn in 2001 to US$10.0 bn in 2014.
7
The Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) comprises Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Kazakhstan,
Kyrgyzstan, Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine and Uzbekistan.
Intra-Asian textile trade Significantly, intra-Asian trade in textiles is much more important than
is much more important intra-Asian trade in clothing (Table 3). This pattern contrasts with the
than intra-Asian clothing situation in world trade as a whole, where clothing trade is more
trade, in contrast to the important than textile trade. In 2014 intra-Asian textile trade was worth
situation in world trade US$88.3 bnor 28.1% of the value of world textile tradewhereas
as a whole intra-Asian clothing trade was worth US$67.2 bn, representing only
13.9% of world clothing trade. Furthermore, intra-Asian textile trade
was the largest textile trade flow in 2014 whereas intra-Asian clothing
trade was only the fourth largest clothing trade flow.
This reflects the fact that The fact that intra-Asian textile trade is more important than intra-Asian
large amounts of textiles clothing trade reflects the following.
are moved around Asia
for further processing Large quantities of textile materials are moved around Asia for
further textile processing and for assembly into garments in Asian
developing countries. Intra-Asian textile trade is therefore
substantial.
whereas most clothing Intra-Asian clothing trade is less important than intra-Asian textile
is shipped to consuming trade because most garments manufactured in Asia are transported
markets in Western to consuming markets in Western developed countries and Japan
developed countries and rather than to other Asian developing countries.
Japan
Table 3: Asian trade flows in textiles and clothing, 2005-14
Over the longer term, However, the gap has been decreasing in recent years. Intra-Asian
intra-Asian clothing trade clothing trade has grown faster than intra-Asian textile trade, at least
has been growing faster as since 1990, as consumer markets for ready-made garments have been
consumer markets for expanding in Asian developing countries. Between 1995 and 2000 intra-
ready-made garments Asian clothing trade rose by 4.0% a year whereas intra-Asian textile
have been expanding in trade remained stagnant. This trend of faster growth continued between
Asian developing 2000 and 2014 as intra-Asian clothing trade rose by an average of 6.8%
countries a year whereas intra-Asian textile trade expanded by a slower 6.0% a
year.
Having said that, this Having said that, in 2014 alone, this trend was reversed as intra-Asian
trend was reversed in textile trade rose by 2.3% whereas intra-Asian clothing trade declined
2014 alone by 1.1%.
Between 2000 and 2014 Of the six major Asian textile and clothing trade flows (see Table 3), the
the fastest growing two which grew the fastest between 2000 and 2014 were:
Asian trade flows
were clothing exports from Asia to Europe; and
textile exports from Asia to Europe.
clothing exports from Clothing exports from Asia to Europe grew by 10.6% a year over the
Asia to Europe 14-year periodwhich was significantly faster than the average growth
rate of 6.6% a year for world clothing trade as a whole.
and textile exports Similarly, textile exports from Asia to Europe grew by 8.4% a year,
from Asia to Europe which was much faster than the average growth rate of 5.2% a year for
world textile trade as a whole.
DEFICITS
Developed countries have For over 30 years, developed countries have had a deficit8 in their textile
long had a deficit with trade with developing countries.
developing countries in
their textile trade and Also, developed countries have long had a deficit in their clothing trade
clothing trade with developing countries.
The USA has the largest The developed country with the largest textile and clothing trade deficit
textile and clothing trade is the USA.
deficit, and in 2014 this
grew by 2.7% to a record In 2014 the USAs textile and clothing trade deficit with all of its
high trading partners grew by 2.7% to US$100.96 bn. The rise came after
growth of 3.6% in 2013, a negligible decline in 2012 and increases of
7.2% in 2011 and 14.6% in 2010. As a result, the deficit reached a
record high in 2014 (Table 4).
Table 4: US textile and clothing trade, 2000-14
(US$ mn) Annual
average % change
2000 2005 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2005-14 2013-14
Textiles
Exports 10,952 12,398 12,426 12,496 9,930 12,169 13,852 13,479 13,935 14,374 1.5 3.1
Imports 15,985 22,538 24,089 23,128 19,211 23,376 25,359 25,956 27,056 28,275 2.3 4.5
Balance -5,033 -10,140 -11,663 -10,632 -9,281 -11,207 -11,508 -12,477 -13,121 -13,901 3.2 5.9
Clothing
Exports 8,629 5,006 4,320 4,449 4,187 4,692 5,241 5,606 5,862 6,109 2.0 4.2
Imports 67,115 80,071 84,851 82,464 72,059 81,939 88,584 87,957 91,028 93,164 1.5 2.3
Balance -58,486 -75,065 -80,531 -78,015 -67,872 -77,247 -83,343 -82,350 -85,166 -87,056 1.5 2.2
Textiles and
clothing
Exports 19,581 17,404 16,746 16,945 14,117 16,861 19,092 19,086 19,798 20,483 1.6 3.5
Imports 83,100 102,609 108,940 105,592 91,270 105,315 113,943 113,913 118,084 121,439 1.7 2.8
Balance -63,519 -85,205 -92,194 -88,647 -77,153 -88,454 -94,851 -94,827 -98,286 -100,956 1.7 2.7
Source: World Trade Organization (WTO).
8
A countrys trade is in deficit when its imports exceed its exports.
Clothing accounted for Clothing accounted for 86.2% of the deficit in 2014, although this share
86.2% of the deficit was down slightly from 86.7% in 2013.
The EU also has a large tex- The EU, like the USA, also has a substantial textile and clothing trade
tile and clothing trade deficit deficit with the rest of the world (Table 5).
In 2014 it grew by a sharp In 2014 the EU deficit grew by a sharp 12.7% to US$80.02 bn following
12.7% following a 1.5% a 1.5% rise in 2013. However, the rise in 2013 came after a 15.1%
rise in 2013 but the latter decline in 2012.
came after a 15.1% decline
in 2012 reflecting a sharp The decline in 2012 reflected a sharp drop in imports owing to the
drop in imports eurozone crisis and subsequent austerity measures by EU member states
in a bid to bring government debt under control.
As a result, the deficit As a result, the EUs deficit in 2014 remained lower than the level seen
remained lower than in 2011 in 2011.
The main source of the EU The chief source of the EU textile and clothing trade deficit in 2014 was
textile and clothing trade the UK. This has been the case for several years.
deficit in 2014 was the UK
deficit, the worlds third In fact, the UK textile and clothing trade deficit was the worlds third
largest largest among individual countries in 2014.
Having said that, the UK During the year, the UK deficit increased by 3.2% to US$19.12 bn.
deficit rose for only the However, the increase followed a negligible 0.1% rise in 2013 and
third time in seven years declines in four of the five years to 2012.
and remained below the
levels seen in 2007, 2008 As a result, the UK deficit in 2014 remained below the level seen in
and 2011 2011 as well as the levels seen in 2007 and 2008.
Germanys textile and Germanys textile and clothing trade deficit rose by 5.2% to
clothing trade deficit rose US$16.98 bn in 2014 following a 7.2% increase in 2013. However, the
by 5.2% in 2014 increase in 2013 came after an 18.5% drop in 2012.
As a result, it reached its As a result, the deficit in 2014 was well below the peak reached in 2011,
second highest level on although it was still at its second highest level on record. Prior to 2011
record, although it the deficit had remained much more stable. In 2000 Germany had been
remained below the peak the largest source of the EU textile and clothing trade deficit. However,
reached in 2011 between 2000 and 2010 the German deficit rose by an average of only
1.4% per annum, from US$12.02 bn to US$13.86 bn, whereas the UK
deficit rose by an average of 5.0% per annum.
All of Germanys textile Germanys textile and clothing trade deficit is due entirely to a deficit
and clothing trade deficit in its clothing trade. In 2014 Germany generated a surplus9 of
in 2014 was in clothing US$1.04 bn in its textile trade, but this was outweighed by a massive
US$18.01 bn deficit in its clothing trade (see Table 18 on page 109).
9
A countrys trade is in surplus when its exports exceed its imports.
Frances textile and clothing Frances textile and clothing trade deficitthe third largest within the
trade deficit rose by 6.6% in EUrose by 6.6% to US$15.48 bn in 2014 following a 4.7% increase
2014 to its second highest in 2013, a 12.3% decline in 2012 and a 14.9% increase in 2012. As a
level on record, although it result, as in the case of Germanys deficit, Frances deficit in 2014 was
remained below the peak below the peak reached in 2011 but was still at its second highest level
reached in 2011 on record.
France, Germany and the These three European countries aloneFrance, Germany and the
UK together accounted for UKhad a combined textile and clothing trade deficit of US$51.58 bn
64.5% of the entire EU in 2014.
textile and clothing trade
deficit in 2014 This figure accounted for 64.5% of the textile and clothing trade deficit
of the EU as a whole during the year.
Table 5: Textile and clothing trade balances, selected countries, 1980-2014
(US$ bn) Annual
average
% change
1980 1990 2000 2005 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2005-14
Trade surpluses
Chinaa 3.02 11.55 38.18 98.08 152.93 167.20 150.30 186.49 225.27 230.72 257.08 271.90 10.7
India 1.91 4.47 10.95 15.08 17.28 18.78 18.70 21.04 26.26 25.56 28.86 31.71 7.7
Bangladeshbc 0.32 0.52 3.94 4.92 7.24 9.49 9.82 11.49 13.83 15.38 19.21 19.48 14.7
Turkey 0.39 4.19 7.82 13.68 15.25 15.13 12.41 12.35 13.89 16.23 17.61 18.86 3.3
Italy 5.33 12.62 13.07 13.86 14.58 14.75 8.92 8.19 9.42 11.49 12.87 12.54 -1.0
Pakistan 3.81 3.55 6.54 10.19 10.54 10.44 9.23 10.76 12.30 11.77 12.58 12.44 2.0
Vietnamb n/a n/a 0.29 1.64 3.31 4.23 4.75 5.96 7.69 8.64 10.41 11.97 22.0
Taiwan 3.91 8.81 12.47 9.06 8.70 8.09 6.88 8.23 9.06 8.37 8.27 8.03 -1.2
Indonesia -0.08 2.09 6.95 7.48 8.78 6.40 6.05 6.38 6.77 6.01 5.97 6.04 -2.1
Hong Kong 3.08 6.52 7.93 8.89 9.47 9.30 7.33 7.45 7.49 6.42 5.78 4.76 -6.1
Malaysiaa 0.00 0.63 2.26 2.58 3.04 3.56 3.22 3.95 4.45 4.12 3.97 4.12 4.8
Tunisiab 0.07 0.26 0.74 1.27 1.43 1.52 1.23 1.15 1.21 0.99 1.04 0.92 -3.1
Moroccoa 0.09 0.56 0.93 0.97 1.22 1.03 1.08 1.02 0.87 0.78 0.70 0.60 -4.7
South Korea 4.74 11.86 13.07 6.52 3.83 3.78 3.64 3.30 2.44 2.73 1.39 0.31 -26.1
Trade deficits
Mexicoa -0.17 -0.27 1.78 0.88 -0.77 -1.01 -0.58 -1.15 -1.83 -2.28 -2.43 -2.83 n/a
Saudi Arabiab -1.99 -2.10 -1.68 -2.32 -2.84 -0.75 -0.69 -3.20 -3.99 -4.40 -4.54 -4.55 7.0
Switzerland -0.75 -2.04 -2.59 -3.24 -3.90 -4.48 -4.25 -4.59 -5.45 -5.14 -5.41 -5.75 5.9
Brazil 0.71 0.70 -0.04 0.23 -1.08 -2.22 -2.42 -3.88 -5.07 -5.69 -5.88 -6.28 n/a
Australia -1.28 -1.90 -2.95 -4.35 -5.21 -5.96 -5.56 -6.56 -7.86 -8.15 -8.42 -8.81 7.3
Russia n/a n/a 0.01 -1.43 -4.90 -7.05 -5.90 -10.36 -12.77 -13.02 -12.39 -10.35 21.9
Canada -1.50 -3.70 -3.54 -5.95 -8.14 -9.31 -8.47 -9.38 -10.71 -10.66 -11.34 -11.45 6.8
France -1.03 -5.25 -6.09 -10.15 -11.82 -13.45 -12.73 -13.77 -15.82 -13.87 -14.52 -15.48 4.3
Germany -6.02 -10.36 -12.02 -11.05 -11.99 -12.85 -13.39 -13.86 -18.47 -15.05 -16.14 -16.98 4.4
UK -1.31 -6.56 -11.10 -17.74 -21.09 -20.53 -18.38 -18.02 -19.41 -18.52 -18.53 -19.12 0.8
Japan 2.35 -6.46 -17.11 -20.98 -22.67 -24.79 -25.70 -26.45 -33.51 -34.58 -35.07 -33.04 4.6
EUd -5.24 -15.64 -27.60 -47.46 -64.42 -70.43 -68.22 -73.22 -82.46 -69.98 -71.00 -80.02 5.4
USA -4.47 -26.10 -63.52 -85.20 -92.19 -88.65 -77.15 -88.45 -94.85 -94.83 -98.29-100.96 1.7
a
Includes significant exports from and imports into processing zones. b Includes WTO secretariat estimates. c Figures relate to
financial years. d Includes intra-trade; intra-EU imports have been estimated; figures for years prior to 2000 relate to the EU15.
Source: World Trade Organization (WTO).
Japan had the worlds Japan had the worlds third largest textile and clothing trade deficit in
third largest textile and 2014behind the USA and the EU as a whole.
clothing deficit in 2014,
after the USA and the EU In terms of individual countries, Japan had the second largest deficit.
That said, Japans deficit That said, Japans deficit fell in 2014, by 5.8% to US$33.04 bn, after 11
fell in 2014 following 11 years of growth.
years of growth although
growth had slowed to just However, growth had slowed to just 1.4% in the previous yearwhich
1.4% in 2013 represented the second slowest growth rate over the 11-year period of
growth.
Japans textile and Japans textile and clothing trade deficit was due largely to a deficit in
clothing trade deficit was its clothing trade.
due largely to a deficit in
its clothing trade Indeed, the latter, at US$30.54 bn, accounted for 92.4% of the countrys
total textile and clothing trade deficit in 2014.
However, Japans clothing Having said that, Japans clothing trade deficit fell by 7.9% in 2014
trade deficit declined in after declining by 0.7% in 2013. As a result, it was at its lowest level
2014 for the second since 2010. Japans textile trade deficit, by contrast, shot up by 30.1%
consecutive year to its to a record high of US$2.50 bn in 2014 following a 61.1% jump in the
lowest level since 2010 previous year. The jump in Japans textile trade deficit was itself due to
while its textile trade a 6.7% fall in Japanese textile exports, to US$6.39 bnwhich
deficit shot up to a record represented their second lowest level since 2002and a 1.4% rise in
high Japanese textile imports. Japans textile trade deficit is relatively new.
Prior to 2009 the country had maintained a surplus in its textile trade.
Canadas textile and Canadas textile and clothing trade deficit grew by 1.0% to
clothing trade deficit rose US$11.45 bn in 2014 following a 6.4% rise in 2013, a 0.5% decline in
by 1.0% to a record high in 2012 and increases of 14.2% in 2011 and 10.8% in 2010. As a result,
2014, having increased for the deficit reached a record high in 2014. In fact, Canadas deficit rose
much of the 2000s, and for much of the 2000sapart from in 2009, when it fell by 9.0%, and
became the worlds fourth in 2012. Furthermore, it more than trebled between 2000 and 2014,
largest from US$3.54 bn to US$11.45 bn. As a result, Canadas deficit was the
fourth largest in 2014after the deficits held by the USA, the EU and
Japanand was bigger than the deficit held by Russia.
Russias textile and Russias textile and clothing trade deficit fell by a sharp 16.5% to
clothing trade deficit fell US$10.35 bn in 2014 following a 4.8% decline in the previous year.
by a sharp 16.5% in 2014
to its lowest level since As a result, the deficit was at its lowest level since 2009, although it
2009 remained well above the levels seen in prior years.
The fall reflected declines The sharp fall in Russias deficit in 2014 reflected a decline in imports
in imports resulting from of textiles and a decline in imports of clothing, although it also reflected
the Russian economic a sharp increase in textile exports.
crisis, which was caused
partly by the imposition The falls in textile and clothing imports stemmed largely from the
of sanctions by the Russian economic crisis which was caused partly by the imposition of
governments of sanctions on Russian individuals and businesses by the governments of
other countries other countries10.
10
In response to the crisis in Ukraine and the annexation of Crimea by Russia in March 2014, some governments
and international organisations, led by the EU and the USA, imposed sanctions on Russian individuals and
businesses.
Also, the sharp decline in Also, the sharp decline in crude oil prices (see page 64) has affected the
crude oil prices has affected countrys GDP and the value of the rouble has fallen significantly.
the countrys GDP and the Indeed, the rouble depreciated against the US dollar by as much as
value of the rouble has 17.5% in 2014, and in 2015 it depreciated by a further 37.0% to a new
fallen significantly low.
Australias textile and Australias textile and clothing trade deficit increased by 4.6% to
clothing trade deficit rose US$8.81 bn in 2014 after rising by 3.3% in 2013, 3.7% in 2012, 19.8%
by 4.6% in 2014 and in 2011 and 17.9% in 2010.
reached a record high for
the fifth consecutive year As a result, the deficit reached a record high for the fifth consecutive
year.
The increase over the five- The increase in the deficit over the five-year periodfrom
year period was due prima- US$5.56 bn to US$8.81 bnwas due primarily to a 60.8% rise in
rily to a rise in clothing the countrys clothing imports, from US$4.06 bn to US$6.52 bn.
imports, although textile That said, textile imports also rose markedly over the five-year
imports also rose markedly periodby 41.0% to US$2.72 bn.
Brazils textile and Brazils textile and clothing trade deficit increased by 6.7% to
clothing trade deficit US$6.28 bn in 2014 following increases of 3.3% in 2013, 12.3% in
increased by 6.7% in 2014 2012, 30.7% in 2011, 60.2% in 2010, 9.2% in 2009, 105.3% in 2008
after growing sharply and 191.0% in 2007. In fact, Brazil had a surplus in its textile and
during 2007-13 clothing trade as recently as 2005. But since then imports have
increased while exports have declined.
Until 2005 the country Up until 2005, Brazil was fairly self-sufficient in textiles and clothing.
was fairly self-sufficient in In the case of clothing, imports were worth just US$310 mn in 2005
textiles and clothing which resulted in a trade surplus of US$60 mn.
But in recent years domes- However, in recent years domestic production has not been able to
tic production has not been satisfy demand as the economy has grown rapidly. At the same time
able to satisfy demand competition from imports has increased11.
Switzerlands textile and Switzerlands textile and clothing trade deficit rose by 6.4% to
clothing trade deficit rose US$5.75 bn in 2014 following a 5.2% increase in 2013, a 5.7% decline
by 6.4% in 2014 and in 2012 and increases of 18.7% in 2011 and 8.0% in 2010. As a result,
reached a record high the deficit was at a record high in 2014, having surpassed the previous
peak reached in 2011.
Saudi Arabias textile and Saudi Arabias textile and clothing trade deficit edged up by 0.2% to
clothing trade deficit edged US$4.55 bn in 2014 following increases of 3.2% in 2013, 10.2% in
up by 0.2% in 2014 and 2012 and 24.9% in 2011, and a surge of 366.0% in 2010.
reached a record high for
the fifth consecutive year As a result, the deficit reached a record high in 2014 for the fifth
consecutive year.
11
See also Prospects for the Textile and Clothing Industry in Brazil, Textile Outlook International, No 153,
December 2011.
Mexicos textile and Mexicos textile and clothing trade deficit rose by 16.2% to US$2.83 bn
clothing trade deficit rose in 2014 after increasing by 6.6% in 2013, 25.1% in 2012, 58.5% in 2011
for the fifth consecutive and 97.2% in 2010.
year in 2014, by 16.2%,
and increased during As a result, the deficit reached a record high in 2014 for the fifth
2010-14 as textile imports consecutive year.
rose by 52.7%
The increases during 2010-14 were due almost entirely to a 52.7% rise
in textile imports.
The rise in textile imports The rise in textile imports would suggest a resurgence in demand for
may have been due to a raw materials by the Mexican clothing industry in the aftermath of the
resurgence in demand for global economic crisis.
raw materials by the
Mexican clothing industry, However, there was not a corresponding increase in clothing exports.
although clothing exports These rose by a much slower 12.3% over the five-year period and
rose much more slowly remained lower than in the years prior to 2009.
Mexico has had a textile and Mexico has had a deficit in its textile and clothing trade since
clothing trade deficit since 2007.
2007 and before that it last
had a deficit in 1994, the Before that, the last time the country posted a deficit was in 1994the
year in which Nafta was year in which the North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta) was
implemented but before implemented but before the country had started to benefit fully from its
the benefits were felt provisions.
Nafta provided a boost to Under Nafta, Mexico was provided with duty-free and quota-free access
Mexicos competitiveness to the US and Canadian markets and was therefore given a significant
competitive advantage over Asian countries.
But Mexicos But Mexicos competitiveness has fallen since quotas restricting US
competitiveness has fallen imports from Asia were eliminated under the ATC (see page 67), and
since quota elimination, following the implementation of the Dominican Republic-Central
and the implementation of America-United States Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR)12, as well
CAFTA-DR and a number as a number of other free trade agreements (FTAs)13. As a result,
of other free trade Mexicos clothing exports have declined to a point where the countrys
agreements (FTAs) clothing trade surplus is no longer sufficient to offset its long-standing
textile trade deficit.
SURPLUSES
For many years Italy had For several years, the worlds largest trade surplus in textiles and
the worlds largest textile clothing was held not by a low cost country but by Italy.
and clothing trade surplus,
but China took over in Since 1991, however, the largest textile and clothing trade surplus has
1991 been held by China.
12
The Dominican Republic-Central America-United States Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR) comprises six
beneficiary countries, namely Costa Rica, the Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras and
Nicaragua. The USA is also a member.
13
See also Talking strategy: Mexicos clothing industry aims to move upmarket to remain competitive, Global
Apparel Markets, No 14, 2nd quarter 2011.
By 2014 Chinas textile Furthermore, China has consolidated its lead over the years. By 2014 its
and clothing trade textile and clothing trade surplus, at US$271.90 bn, was over eight
surplus was over eight times as much as the worlds second largest textile and clothing trade
times as big as Indias surplusthat of India, which was valued at US$31.71 bn in the same
year.
Chinas surplus rose for Chinas surplus rose by 5.8%, or US$14.81 bn, in 2014 following
the fifth consecutive year increases of 11.4%, or US$26.36 bn, in 2013, 2.4%, or US$5.45 bn, in
in 2014, by 5.8% 2012, 20.8%, or US$38.78 bn, in 2011 and 24.1%, or US$36.19 bn, in
2010.
The rise in Chinas surplus The rise in Chinas surplus in 2014 was due to increases in textile
in 2014 was due to exports and clothing exports, as well as a decline in textile imports.
increases in textile exports Textile exports were up by 4.8%, or US$5.09 bn, to US$111.66 bn
and clothing exports, as while clothing exports were up by 5.2%, or US$9.19 bn, to
well as a decline in textile US$186.61 bn. Textile imports, meanwhile, were down by 6.1%, or
imports US$1.32 bn, to US$20.25 bn. However, they were still at their second
highest level on record.
Indias textile and Indias textile and clothing trade surplus rose by 9.9% to US$31.71 bn
clothing trade surplus in 2014 following a 12.9% increase in the previous year. As a result, the
rose by 9.9% to a record surplus reached a record high for the second consecutive year and India
high in 2014 had the worlds second largest surplus for the tenth consecutive year.
due to sharp increases The rise in the surplus in 2014 was due to increases in textile exports
in textile exports and and clothing exports. Textile exports were up by 5.3%, or US$923 mn,
clothing exports to US$18.34 bn while clothing exports were up by 14.2%, or
US$2.20 bn, to US$17.74 bn.
Bangladeshs textile and Bangladeshs textile and clothing trade surplus rose for the seventh
clothing trade surplus year in succession in 2014by 1.4% to US$19.48 bn following
rose for the seventh year increases of 24.9% in 2013, 11.2% in 2012, 20.4% in 2011, 17.0% in
in succession in 2014, by 2010, 3.5% in 2009 and 31.1% in 2008. As a result, the surplus reached
1.4%, and remained the a record high. Furthermore, it remained the worlds third largest textile
worlds third largest and clothing trade surplus, having climbed one place from fourth in the
previous year.
Between 2005 and 2014 Between 2005 and 2014 Bangladeshs surplus rose by an average of
the surplus rose by an 14.7% per annummaking Bangladesh one of only three major
average of 14.7% per exporting countries to achieve double digit annual average growth over
annum this period. The other two countries were China and Vietnam.
The textile and clothing trade Bangladeshs textile and clothing trade surplus in 2014 was due entirely
surplus in 2014 was due to a to a US$23.89 bn trade surplus in clothingreflecting very high export
trade surplus in clothing levels and minimal imports.
In textiles the country In textiles, however, the country had a deficit as its textile exports were
had a deficit worth US$2.36 bn while its textile imports were valued at US$6.78 bn.
and this is set to widen as Moreover, the textile trade deficit is set to widen as more yarns and
more yarns and fabrics are fabrics are consumed by the countrys expanding clothing industry. In
consumed by its expanding 2014 the deficit increased by 19.8% to US$4.42 bn, which represented
clothing industry the sixth increase in eight years.
Turkeys textile and Turkeys textile and clothing trade surplus rose by 7.1% to
clothing trade surplus US$18.86 bn in 2014 following increases of 8.5% in 2013, 16.8% in
rose by 7.1% to a record 2012 and 12.5% in 2011. As a result, the surplus reached a record high
high in 2014 in 2014 for the third consecutive year.
The rise was due to The rise in the surplus was due to increases in textile exports and
increases in textile clothing exports. Textile exports were up by 3.1% to US$12.52 bn,
exports and clothing which represented a record high for the fourth consecutive year.
exports Clothing exports, meanwhile, were up by 8.4% to US$16.68 bn, which
also represented a record high for the fourth consecutive year.
Turkeys clothing trade By far the bulk of Turkeys textile and clothing trade surplus in 2014
surplus rose by 9.8% to a was due to its surplus in clothing. Furthermore, this was up by 9.8%
new peak while its textile compared with the previous year to a new peak of US$13.45 bn.
trade surplus edged up
by 0.8% to a record high Turkeys textile trade surplus, meanwhile, edged up by 0.8% to
for the third consecutive US$5.40 bn, which represented a record high for the third consecutive
year year.
Italys textile and Italys textile and clothing trade surplus fell by 2.6% to US$12.54 bn
clothing trade surplus in 2014. However, this followed increases in each of the previous three
fell by 2.6% in 2014 but years. Consequently, despite the fall in 2014 alone, the surplus was still
was still at its second at its second highest level since 2008although it remained below the
highest level since 2008 levels seen in prior years. Furthermore, it remained the worlds fifth
largest surplus during the year.
The fall was due to The fall in the textile and clothing trade surplus in 2014 was due to
increases in textile increases in textile imports and clothing imports. Textile imports were
imports and clothing up by 5.6% to US$9.00 bn while clothing imports were up by 8.6% to
imports US$17.17 bn.
Pakistans textile and Pakistans textile and clothing trade surplus fell by 1.1% to
clothing trade surplus US$12.44 bn in 2014.
fell by 1.1% in 2014 but
was still at its second Nevertheless, this represented its second highest level on record and the
highest level on record surplus remained the worlds sixth largest.
The fall was due entirely The fall in the countrys textile and clothing trade surplus was due
to a 7.0% decline in the entirely to a 7.0% decline in its textile trade surplus, to US$7.53 bn
countrys textile trade which, itself, reflected a 2.8% drop in textile exports and a 24.2% jump
surplus in textile imports.
Its clothing trade Pakistans clothing trade surplus, by contrast, increased by 9.5% to
surplus, by contrast, US$4.90 bn. This reflected a 9.7% rise in clothing exports as clothing
increased by 9.5% imports remained negligible.
All of the textile and All of Vietnams textile and clothing trade surplus in 2014 was in
clothing trade surplus in clothing, and this surplus was up by 14.0% compared with the previous
2014 was in clothing year, to US$18.73 bn.
In textiles, by contrast, In textiles, by contrast, Vietnam had a trade deficit of US$6.76 bn, and
Vietnam had a trade this was up by 12.3%. The deficit in textiles reflects the fact that the
deficit expansion of Vietnams clothing industry has outpaced the capacity of
the textile industry to supply it with yarns and fabrics.
However, several foreign yarn However, a number of foreign yarn and fabric manufacturers have
and fabric makers have inves- invested heavily in capacity growth in Vietnam in the belief that
ted heavily in capacity growth demand for domestically produced yarns and fabrics will increase
in Vietnam in the belief that sharply when the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TTP)14 enters into force.
demand for domestically
produced yarns and fabrics This is because of the fact that, in order for most Vietnamese clothing
will increase sharply when exports to enter other markets in the TPP duty-free, they will have to
the TTP enters into force incorporate originating products15.
Taiwans textile and Taiwans textile and clothing trade surplus declined by 2.9% to
clothing trade surplus US$8.03 bn in 2014 following falls of 1.2% in 2013 and 7.6% in 2012.
declined in 2014 for the In fact, the decline in 2014 represented the eighth in ten years.
eighth time in ten years
to its second lowest level As a result, the surplus was at its second lowest level since 1986, having
since 1986 exceeded only the level seen in 2009.
Indonesias textile and Indonesias textile and clothing trade surplus rose by 1.2% to
clothing trade surplus rose US$6.04 bn in 2014. However, the rise followed declines of 0.8% in
by 1.2% in 2014 but 2013 and 11.1% in 2012.
remained below the levels
seen during 2003-11 As a result, the surplus in 2014 remained below the levels seen during
2003-11.
14
The proposed Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) free trade agreement involves trade between 12 Pacific Rim
countries, namely Australia, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Japan, Malaysia, Mexico, New Zealand, Peru, Singapore,
the USA and Vietnam. Ratification of the TPP would create one of the worlds most important trading blocs.
15
In this context, the term originating products refers to items which have been wholly produced in a
country which is a signatory of the TPP, or products incorporating imported (non-originating) materials which
have undergone sufficient transformation (working or processing) in a country which is a signatory of the TPP.
Non-originating materials can normally be regarded as raw materials, ingredients, components or parts which
have been imported into a TPP signatory country for further processing or for inclusion in a finished product.
However, the term originating products also applies to any materials used to manufacture a product which do
not meet the wholly produced or sufficiently transformed criteria.
Hong Kongs textile and Hong Kongs textile and clothing trade surplus fell by a sharp
clothing trade surplus fell 17.5% to US$4.76 bn in 2014 following declines of 10.0% in 2013 and
by 17.5% in 2014 to its 14.3% in 2012. As a result, the surplus was at its lowest level since
lowest level since 1986 1986.
Moreover, the fall is likely to Moreover, it is likely that the falls in Hong Kongs textile and clothing
be a sign of things to come trade surplus during 2012-14 are a sign of things to come.
US and EU imports from Most, if not all, of the increase in the surplus in earlier years had been
China are no longer subject to aided largely by rising re-exports of goods imported from elsewhere,
safeguard restrictions so the particularly from China. However, since 2008 US and EU imports from
role of Hong Kong as a trans- China have no longer been subject to safeguard restrictions16 so the role
shipment hub has diminished of Hong Kong as a transshipment hub has diminished and re-exports
and re-exports have declined have declined as a result.
At the same time, domestic At the same time, domestic exports17 of textiles and clothing from Hong
production has become Kong have declined as production in the territory has become
increasingly uncompetitive increasingly uncompetitive (see Table 6 and Table 7).
In 2014 domestic exports Indeed, in 2014 alone, Hong Kongs domestic exports of textiles fell
of textiles fell by 8.7% and by 8.7% while its domestic exports of clothing were down by 6.4%.
domestic exports of In both cases, the declines followed severe falls in the years prior to
clothing by 6.4% 2014.
Hong Kong has become Hong Kong has become more important as a marketing and distribution
more important as a centre for goods made in South-East Asian and East Asian
marketing and countriesparticularly China. But there are signs that even this role
distribution centre, may be weakening as foreign buyers have, increasingly, been dealing
although it faces directly with suppliers in mainland China. Also, marketing and
competition even in this distribution centres are becoming more established in other regions of
role the world.
Malaysias textile and Malaysias textile and clothing trade surplus rose by 3.8% to
clothing trade surplus US$4.12 bn in 2014. The rise followed declines of 3.7% in 2013 and
rose by 3.8% in 2014 to its 7.3% in 2012 but these came after increases of 12.6% in 2011 and
third highest level on 22.8% in 2010. As a result, the surplus in 2014 remained below the
record levels seen in 2011 and 2012 although it was still at its third highest
level on record.
The rise was due mainly to an The rise in the surplus in 2014 was due mainly to a 4.1% increase in
increase in clothing exports clothing exports, to a record high of US$4.77 bn.
16
At the insistence of the USA, a special textile safeguard clause was incorporated in Chinas World Trade
Organization (WTO) accession agreement. The clause, which expired at the end of 2008, enabled any WTO
member to limit growth in imports of a textile or clothing product category from China where such imports were
causing, or threatening to cause, market disruption. In 2005 the EU and China negotiated a comprehensive trade
agreement under the safeguard clause, covering a broad range of product categories. The agreement came into
force in mid-2005 and terminated at the end of 2007. The USA negotiated a similar agreement with China which
came into force at the beginning of 2006 and expired at the end of 2008. Under the special textile safeguard
clause, no importing country was permitted to maintain safeguard restrictions against China beyond 2008.
17
Domestic exports in this context are exports of goods produced in Hong Kong.
Tunisias textile and Tunisias textile and clothing trade surplus fell by 11.0% to US$920 mn
clothing trade surplus in 2014.
fell by 11.0% in 2014 to
its lowest level since The fall represented the fourth decline in six years and, as a result, the
2001 surplus was at its lowest level since 2001.
The fall was due primarily to The fall in the surplus was due primarily to a 3.0% decline in the
a decline in clothing exports countrys clothing exports.
Moroccos textile and Moroccos textile and clothing trade surplus fell by 13.9% to just
clothing trade surplus fell US$600 mn in 2014 following declines of 11.2% in 2013, 10.2% in
by 13.9% in 2014 to its 2012, 14.4% in 2011 and 5.6% in 2010. As a result, the surplus fell to
lowest level since 1997 its lowest level since 1997.
although clothing exports Unlike Tunisia, however, the fall in Moroccos surplus in 2014 was due
rose by 3.9% to their primarily to a 9.0% increase in the countrys textile imports. Clothing
highest level since 2008 exports actually rose, by 3.9%, to their highest level since 2008.
South Koreas textile and South Koreas textile and clothing trade surplus plummeted by 77.4%
clothing trade surplus to just US$310 mn in 2014 following a 49.1% plunge in 2013. The
plummeted by 77.4% in plunge in 2013 came after an 11.9% rise in 2012 but this had
2014 represented the first increase in 12 years. Indeed, South Koreas surplus
had been as high as US$13.07 bn in 2000.
due largely to a 12.5% The decline in the surplus in 2014 was due largely to a 12.5% increase
increase in clothing imports in clothing imports to a record high of US$8.47 bn.
Most textile and clothing Most of the worlds trade in textiles and clothing is highly concentrated
trade is in the hands of in the sense that it is conducted between a relatively small number of
only a few countries countries.
In the case of exports, In the case of exports, textile supplies and clothing supplies are highly
textile supplies and concentrated although textile supplies are slightly more concentrated
clothing supplies are than clothing supplies. In textiles, 91.9% of the worlds exports in 2014
highly concentrated came from the leading 15 textile supplierscomprising the EU and 14
non-EU countries (Table 6). In clothing, 90.0% of world exports came
from the leading 15 clothing suppliers (Table 7).
In the case of imports, In the case of imports, clothing markets are much more concentrated
clothing markets are than textile markets. In 2014 the top 15 clothing markets took as much
much more concentrated as 73.3% of world clothing imports whereas the top 15 textile markets
than textile markets took only 59.9% of world textile imports during the year.
About 23.8% of world In 2014 about 23.8% of the worlds exports of textiles came from the
textile exports came from EU. Also, two other advanced economiesthe USA and Japanranked
the EU in 2014, and two among the leading 15 exporting countries. Furthermore, the top 15 also
other advanced economies included three newly industrialised countries with relatively high costs,
ranked among the top 15 namely Hong Kong, South Korea and Taiwan.
China remained the worlds China remained the worlds largest textile exporter in 2014, having
largest textile exporter in overtaken the EU in 2010. Furthermore, exports from the country rose
2014, having overtaken the by 4.8% to US$111.66 bn during the year. Admittedly, the rise
EU in 2010, and its share of represented a sharp slowdown compared with growth of 11.7% a year
world textile exports rose to earlier. However, it still represented the third fastest increase among the
35.6% as its own textile worlds 15 largest textile exporters. As a result, Chinas share of world
exports increased by 4.8% textile exports rose from 35.0% to 35.6%.
Between 2010 and 2014 textile Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014 Chinese textile exports grew by
exports from China grew at an average of 9.8% per annum.
the third fastest rate among
the countries which consti- This also represented the third fastest growth rate among the
tuted the worlds 15 largest countries which constituted the worlds 15 largest textile exporters in
textile exporters in 2014 2014.
EU textile exports rose by Textile exports from the EUthe worlds second largest textile
3.5% in 2014 following a exporterrose by 3.5% to US$74.83 bn in 2014 following a 3.7%
3.7% increase in 2013 but increase in 2013.
the latter came after a 9.6%
decline in 2012 and, as a However, the increase in 2013 came after a 9.6% decline in 2012. As a
result, exports in 2014 were result, exports in 2014 remained below the level seen in 2011. Also,
below the level seen in 2011 they were below the levels reached in 2007 and 2008.
Between 2000 and 2014 the Admittedly, the EUs share of world textile exports remained
EUs share of world textile stable in 2014, at 23.8%. However, this share was below the EUs
exports fell from 36.7% to 24.6% share in 2012, and it was well below the EUs 36.7% share in
23.8% 2000.
Also, a large share of EU Also, a large proportion of EU textile exports in 2014 consisted of
textile exports in 2014 was intra-EU tradeor trade between the EUs member states.
intra-EU trade, and when
intra-EU trade is excluded When intra-EU trade is excluded from the total, the EU accounted
the EUs share of world for only 7.4% of world textile exportsless than one third of its share
textile exports was only when intra-EU trade is included.
7.4%
Indian textile exports rose Textile exports from Indiathe worlds third largest textile
by 5.3% to a record high in exporterrose by 5.3% to US$18.34 bn in 2014. This represented the
2014 for the fifth second fastest increase among the worlds 15 largest textile exporters.
consecutive year and were Furthermore, the rise followed increases of 13.5% in 2013, 0.1% in
more than double the level 2012, 19.5% in 2011 and 40.9% in 2010. As a result, exports reached
seen as recently as 2009 a record high in 2014 for the fifth consecutive year and were more than
double the level seen as recently as 2009.
Also, they were worth more Also, Indian textile exports were worth more than Indian clothing
than Indian clothing exports exports for the fifth consecutive year in 2014, having been worth less
for the fifth year in a row than Indian clothing exports in the five years to 2009.
Much of the growth in Much of the 5.3% increase in 2014 was aided by the depreciation of the
2014 was aided by the Indian rupee against the US dollar. This made Indian products cheaper
depreciation of the Indian in US dollar terms and therefore much more attractive to foreign buyers.
rupee against the US In 2014 the value of the rupee fell by 4.1% following declines of 8.9%
dollar in 2013 and 12.6% in 2012.
The rupee also Furthermore, the rupee also depreciated against the US dollar in
depreciated in 2015 2015by 4.8% to US$1.00:Rs64.12, which was its weakest level in
several years.
US textile exports rose by Textile exports from the USA rose by 3.1% to US$14.37 bn in 2014
3.1% to a record high in following a 3.4% increase in the previous year. As a result, exports
2014 but the rise was reached a record high in 2014 for the second consecutive year.
slower than the average
growth rate of 4.3% per Having said that, the increases in 2013 and 2014 were slower than the
annum between 2010 and average growth rate of 4.3% per annum recorded for the period between
2014 and the USAs share 2010 and 2014. Furthermore, the USAs share of world textile exports
of world textile exports remained static in 2014, at 4.6%, after declining in the previous year
remained static from 4.8% in 2012.
A large proportion of US A large proportion of the textiles exported from the USA goes to
textile exports goes to Mexico and other nearby countriesnotably those in the Caribbean
nearby countries for Basin and countries which are signatories to the Dominican
making up and re-export Republic-Central America-United States Free Trade Agreement
to the USA as garments (CAFTA-DRsee page 76)for making up and subsequent re-export
to the USA as garments.
Turkish textile exports Turkish textile exports rose by 3.1% to US$12.52 bn in 2014 following
rose by 3.1% in 2014 and increases of 9.9% in 2013, 2.6% in 2012, 20.2% in 2011 and 16.1% in
reached a record high for 2010. As a result, exports reached a record high in 2014 for the fourth
the fourth consecutive year consecutive year.
Furthermore, between Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014 Turkish textile exports grew by
2010 and 2014 they grew an average of 8.7% per annum. This represented the fifth fastest growth
by an average of 8.7% per rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15 largest textile
annum and Turkeys share exporters in 2014.
of world textile exports
rose from 3.6% to 4.0% As a result, Turkeys share of world textile exports rose from 3.6% in
2010 to 4.0% in 2014 and the country remained the worlds fifth largest
textile exporter in 2014, having ranked sixth in 2012 and eighth in 2011.
South Korean textile South Korean textile exports fell by 1.1% to US$11.91 bn in 2014
exports fell by 1.1% in 2014 following a minimal 0.6% rise in 2013 and a 3.2% decline in 2012. As
to their lowest level since a result, exports in 2014 were at their lowest level since 2010.
2010 and the countrys
share of world textile Admittedly, South Korean textile exports remained above the levels
exports fell to a record low seen between 2001 and 2010 but South Koreas share of world textile
exports in 2014, at just 3.8%, was the lowest on record.
Also, growth averaged Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014 South Korean textile exports grew
only 2.1% per annum by an average of only 2.1% per annumwhich was slower than the
between 2010 and 2014 average rates of growth of exports from the EU and the USA. Having
said that, it was faster than the average rates of growth of exports from
Hong Kong, Japan and Taiwan.
Textile exports from Textile exports from Taiwan rose by a minimal 0.1% to US$10.23 bn
Taiwan rose by 0.1% in in 2014 following declines of 0.7% in 2013 and 6.6% in 2012.
2014 to their third highest
level since 2000 However, the decline in 2012 came after increases of 13.3% in 2011 and
23.2% in 2010. As a result, exports in 2014 were still at their third
highest level since 2000.
However, their share of Having said that, Taiwans share of world textile exports in 2014, at
world textile exports has 3.3%, was less than half of the 7.7% share which the country enjoyed
fallen in 2000.
Hong Kongs textile Hong Kongs textile exportsincluding domestic exports and
exports fell by 8.7% in re-exportsfell by 8.7% to US$9.78 bn in 2014. This represented the
2014 to their lowest level sixth decline in eight years and, as a result, exports were at their lowest
since 1991 level since 1991.
The fall was due to The fall in exports in 2014 was due to an 8.7% decline in re-exports, to
declines in re-exports and US$9.64 bn, and an 8.7% decline in domestic exports, to just
domestic exports US$150 mn.
Domestic exports and Between 2010 and 2014 domestic exports plunged by an average of
re-exports also fell 12.8% per annum while re-exports fell by an average of 0.7% per
between 2010 and 2014 annum.
The fall in domestic The plunge in Hong Kongs domestic exports reflects the declining cost
exports reflects the competitiveness of Hong Kong and the relocation of production from
declining cost the territory to the Chinese mainland. Indeed, Hong Kongs domestic
competitiveness of Hong exports accounted for less than 0.1% of world textile exports in
Kong and the relocation 2014just a fraction of the 2.1% share held by Hong Kongs domestic
of production to China exports in 1990.
The fall in re-exports The fall in re-exports between 2010 and 2014 reflects the fact that
reflects the fact that there is US and EU imports from China are no longer subject to safeguard
no longer a need to reroute restrictions (see page 80) and, as a result, there is no longer any need for
exports via Hong Kong to them to be rerouted via Hong Kong in order to avoid quota
avoid quota restrictions restrictions.
Pakistani textile exports Textile exports from Pakistan fell by 2.8% to US$9.08 bn in 2014.
fell by 2.8% in 2014 but However, exports had increased by 7.3% to a record high in the
were still at their third previous year and, as a result, exports in 2014 were still at their third
highest level on record highest level on record.
Having said that, they Having said that, growth in Pakistani textile exports between 2010 and
grew relatively slowly 2014 was relatively slow, at an average of 3.7% per annum, and was
between 2010 and 2014, much slower than growth in textile exports from Vietnam (up by an
by an average of 3.7% average of 14.5%), the UAE (up by an average of 10.7%), China (up by
per annum an average of 9.8%) and India (up by an average of 9.3%). It was also
slower than growth in exports from Turkey (up by an average of 8.7%),
Mexico (up by an average of 7.2%) and the USA (up by an average of
4.3%).
Japanese textile exports fell Textile exports from Japan, the worlds tenth largest textile exporter,
for the third consecutive fell by 6.7% to US$6.39 bn in 2014 following declines of 12.5% in
year in 2014 to their second 2013 and 2.7% in 2012. As a result, they were at their second lowest
lowest level since 2002 level since 2002.
Furthermore, Japan was one Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014 Japanese textile exports fell by an
of only two countries among average of 2.6% per annum.
the worlds 15 largest clothing
exporters in 2014 to post a Only one other country among those which constituted the worlds 15
decline in its textile exports largest textile exporters in 2014 posted a decline in its textile exports
between 2010 and 2014 over the four-year period, namely Hong Kong.
Vietnamese textile exports Vietnamese textile exports rose by 14.0% to a record high of
rose by 14.0% to a record US$5.26 bn in 2014. The increase was the fastest among the worlds 15
high in 2014 and between largest textile exporters. Furthermore, it was the 13th double digit
2010 and 2014 Vietnam increase in 14 years.
was the fastest growing
textile exporter among the Moreover, between 2010 and 2014 textile exports from Vietnam were
countries which constituted up by an average of 14.5% per annum.
the worlds 15 largest
textile exporters in 2014 As a result, Vietnam was also the fastest growing textile exporter over
this four-year period among the countries which constituted the worlds
15 largest textile exporters in 2014.
Indonesian textile exports Indonesian textile exports rose by 2.0% to US$4.72 bn in 2014
rose by 2.0% in 2014 to following a 2.0% increase in 2013 and a 5.2% decline in 2012. As a
their second highest level result, exports in 2014 were below the peak reached in 2011 although
on record they were still at their second highest level on record.
However, between 2010 and However, between 2010 and 2014, Indonesian textile exports rose by a
2014 export growth was relatively slow average of 3.3% per annum.
relatively slow, at just 3.3%
per annum, while imports Furthermore, Indonesian textile imports rose by a much faster average
rose at a much faster rate of 8.4% per annum.
As a result, the country As a result, Indonesia posted a textile trade deficit in 2014 for the fifth
posted a textile trade deficit consecutive year, after generating surpluses in the years prior to
for the fifth consecutive year 2010.
Thai textile exports rose Textile exports from Thailand rose by 0.4% to US$3.89 bn in
by 0.4% in 2014 following 2014 following a 10.0% increase in 2013. However, the latter came
a 10.0% increase in 2013 after a 13.5% decline in 2012. As a result, Thai textile exports remained
and reached their second short of the peak reached in 2011 but were at their second highest level
highest level on record on record.
Having said that, they Having said that, between 2010 and 2014, Thai textile exports rose by
grew by an average of just an average of just 0.8% per annum. And, excluding the declines in
0.8% per annum between Japanese textile exports (see page 86) and Hong Kong textile exports
2010 and 2014 (see page 85) over this four-year period, the rise represented the slowest
increase among the countries which constituted the worlds 15 largest
textile exporters in 2014.
Textile exports from the Textile exports from the United Arab Emirates (UAE) declined by
UAE declined by 0.4% in 0.4% to US$2.72 bn in 2014. However, the decline followed increases
2014 but were still at their of 23.4% in 2013, 15.9% in 2012, 5.6% in 2011 and 6.9% in 2010. As
second highest level on a result, textile exports from the UAE in 2014 were still at their second
record highest level on record.
Between 2010 and 2014 Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014 UAE textile exports rose by an
they rose by an average of average of 10.7% per annum, which represented the second fastest
10.7% per annum growth rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15
largest textile exporters in 2014.
Textile exports from Textile exports from Mexico rose by 4.2% to US$2.55 bn in 2014
Mexico rose by 4.2% in following increases of 9.4% in 2013, 4.5% in 2012, 11.0% in 2011 and
2014 to their second 19.7% in 2010. As a result, exports reached their highest level since
highest level on record 2000 and their second highest level on record.
The worlds largest textile By far the worlds largest textile importer is the EU (Table 6). Indeed,
importer in 2014 was the the EU accounted for 24.8% of world textile imports in 2014.
EU with 24.8% of the Furthermore, this percentage was up from 24.3% in 2013. However, it
world total, although a was lower than in the years seen prior to 2013.
large share of this was
accounted for by intra-EU Also, a large proportion of the percentage was accounted for by
trade intra-EU tradeor trade between the EUs 28 member states.
Excluding intra-EU trade, Excluding intra-EU trade, the EU accounted for a considerably smaller
the EU accounted for only 9.5% of world textile imports in 2014. Nonetheless, this still placed it
9.5% of world textile ahead of the USA, the worlds second largest textile importer, with an
imports 8.4% share.
The EU is a prime target Given the size of the EU market, it is not surprising that it is a prime
for foreign suppliers target for foreign suppliers of textiles.
Having said that, extra-EU Having said that, extra-EU textile importsor textile imports from
textile imports were more countries outside the EUwere more dynamic, having increased by an
dynamic, having increased by average of 4.2% per annum between 2010 and 2014. Furthermore, in
an average of 4.2% per annum 2014 alone, extra-EU textile imports were up by 8.7%.
Textile imports into the The worlds second largest market for foreign textile suppliers in 2014
USA, the worlds second was the USA.
largest market for foreign
textile suppliers, rose to a US textile imports were up by 4.5% to US$28.27 bn during the year
record high for the fourth following increases of 4.2% in 2013, 2.4% in 2012, 8.5% in 2011 and
consecutive year in 2014 21.7% in 2010. As a result, they reached a record high for the fourth
consecutive year.
The USA has moved up The USA has moved up the ranks of importing nations as its self-
the ranks of textile sufficiency in textiles and apparel has been eroded. At the beginning of
importing nations as its the 1990s, the country ranked only fifth among world textile importers,
self-sufficiency has been despite the huge size of its economy. But in 2014 it was a close second
eroded behind the EU (excluding intra-EU trade).
However, the USAs share Between 2010 and 2014, however, US textile imports grew by an
of world textile imports average of only 4.9% per annum. As a result, the USAs share of world
fell between 2010 and textile imports fell slightly over the four-year period, from 8.8% to
2014 8.4%.
Chinese textile imports fell by Textile imports into Chinathe worlds third largest market for foreign
6.1% in 2014 although they textile suppliersfell by 6.1% to US$20.25 bn in 2014. That said, the
were still at their second fall represented the first decline in five years and, as a result, textile
highest level on record imports in 2014 were still at their second highest level on record.
Between 2010 and 2014, But growth averaged only 3.5% per annum between 2010 and 2014,
growth averaged only which was much slower than that of textile imports into some of the
3.5% per annum, which smaller, fast growing import markets.
was much slower than
that of imports into some In fact, only five countries among those which constituted the worlds
of the smaller, fast 15 largest textile importers in 2014 posted slower growth rates over the
growing import markets four-year period, namely Canada, the EU, Hong Kong, South Korea and
Turkey.
Further growth is likely Looking ahead, further import growth is likely, given that Vietnam does
as the clothing industry not have an abundant supply of raw materials for its ever expanding
expands clothing industry.
Textile imports into Hong Imports of textiles into Hong Kong fell by 10.1% to US$9.36 bn in
Kong fell by 10.1% in 2014 to 2014. The fall represented the sixth in eight years. As a result, Hong
their lowest level since 1989 Kong textile imports in 2014 were at their lowest level since 1989.
Japanese textile imports Japanese textile imports rose by 1.4% to US$8.89 bn in 2014. The rise
rose by 1.4% in 2014 to followed declines of 2.7% in 2013 and 2.0% in 2012 but the latter had
their third highest level come after a period of strong growth which saw imports reach record
on record highs in five of the six years to 2011. As a result, Japanese textile
imports in 2014 remained below the levels reached in 2011 and 2012
but were still at their third highest level on record.
Textile imports into Textile imports into Turkey rose by 4.8% to US$7.12 bn in 2014
Turkey rose by 4.8% in following a 5.4% increase in 2013 but the latter came after a 14.8%
2014 to their second decline in 2012. As a result, Turkish textile imports remained short of
highest level on record the peak reached in 2011. Nevertheless, they were still at their second
highest level on record.
Bangladeshi textile Textile imports into Bangladesh shot up by 14.0% to a record high of
imports shot up by 14.0% US$6.78 bn in 2014. The rise represented the fastest increase among
to a record high in 2014 imports into the worlds 15 largest textile importers.
and rose by an average of
11.0% per annum Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014, Bangladeshi textile imports rose
between 2010 and 2014 by an average of 11.0% per annum, which represented the second fastest
growth rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15
largest textile importers in 2014.
The Bangladeshi clothing The Bangladeshi clothing industry has expanded massively in recent
industry has had to import years as EU and US buyers have sought out ever lower cost suppliers.
more textiles to meet rising This has led to a correspondingly massive increase in demand for textile
demand for clothing from inputs and, in order to meet this demand, the country has had to import
EU and US buyers more textiles.
Mexicos textile imports Textile imports into Mexico rose by 3.7% to US$6.41 bn in 2014
rose by 3.7% in 2014 and following increases of 2.9% in 2013, 2.5% in 2012, 13.8% in 2011 and
reached a record high for 22.7% in 2010. As a result, Mexican textile imports reached a record
the second consecutive year high for the second consecutive year.
But average growth between Having said that, the increase in 2010 was the first in five years and
2005 and 2014 was minimal, average growth between 2005 and 2014 was minimal, at just 0.7% per
at just 0.7% per annum annum.
Indonesian textile imports Textile imports into Indonesiathe worlds tenth largest textile
rose by 0.5% in 2014 to a importerrose by 0.5% to US$5.81 bn in 2014 following a 3.9%
record high which was increase in 2013. The latter came after a 1.5% fall in 2012 but this came
more than double the level after jumps of 34.1% in 2011 and 50.5% in 2010. As a result,
seen in 2009 Indonesian textile imports reached a record high in 2014 for the second
consecutive year and were more than double the level seen in 2009.
Between 2010 and 2014 Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014 Indonesian textile imports rose by
Indonesian textile imports an average of 8.4% per annum. This represented the third fastest growth
rose by an average of 8.4% rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15 largest textile
per annum importers in 2014.
South Korean textile Imports of textiles into South Koreathe worlds 11th largest textile
imports rose by 2.9% in importergrew by 2.9% to US$5.37 bn in 2014 following a 6.9% rise
2014 to their second in 2013, a 13.7% decline in 2012 and increases of 17.1% in 2011 and
highest level on record 36.7% in 2010. As a result, South Korean textile imports remained short
of the peak reached in 2011 but were at their second highest level on
record.
Canadian textile imports Textile imports into Canada rose by 0.4% to US$4.58 bn in 2014 after
rose by 0.4% in 2014, also declining by 0.5% in 2013. As a result, Canadian textile imports were
to their second highest just below the peak reached in 2012 but were at their second highest
level on record level on record.
Between 2010 and 2014, Between 2010 and 2014, however, Canadian textile imports were
however, Canadian textile among the least dynamic, having risen by an average of only 2.5% per
imports were among the annum over the four-year period. This represented the third slowest
least dynamic growth rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15
largest textile importers in 2014.
Brazilian textile imports Textile imports into Brazil rose by 3.8% to a record high of US$4.38 bn
rose by 3.8% to a record in 2014. The rise followed declines of 1.8% in 2013 and 0.1% in 2012
high in 2014 and were but prior to the decline in 2012 imports had risen at double digit rates
over five times as high as in seven of the eight years to 2011. As a result, imports in 2014 were
in 2003 over five times as high as in 2003.
Russian textile imports fell Russian textile imports fell by 6.1% to US$4.10 bn in 2014 following
by 6.1% in 2014 following a 6.4% decline in 2013. As a result, imports in 2014 were lower than the
a 6.4% decline in 2013 but levels seen during 2011-13. However, the decline in 2013 followed
they remained above the increases of 5.1% in 2012 and 25.0% in 2011. As a result, imports in
levels seen prior to 2011 2014 were higher than the levels seen prior to 2011despite the
economic crisis in the country (see page 74).
Textile imports into India Textile imports into India, the worlds 15th largest textile importer,
rose by 5.1% in 2014 and rose by 5.1% to US$3.76 bn in 2014 following a 7.9% rise in the
reached a record high previous year. As a result, imports reached a record high for the second
consecutive year.
Furthermore, between Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014 Indian textile imports rose by an
2010 and 2014 they rose average of 7.7% per annum, which represented the fourth fastest growth
by an average of 7.7% rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15 largest textile
per annum importers in 2014.
The EU was displaced The EU used to be the worlds largest clothing exporter. But in 2014 it
from the top spot in 2006 ranked second, having been displaced from the top spot eight years
by China earlier, in 2006, by China.
In the USA, clothing In the USA, clothing exports fell faster between 2000 and 2010 than
exports fell faster between those from any of the other countries which constituted the worlds
2000 and 2010 than in any leading 15 clothing exporters in 2010.
of the other countries
which constituted the As a result, the USA ranked only ninth in 2010 compared with fourth in
worlds leading 15 clothing 2000, and remained only the ninth largest clothing exporter in the four
exporters in 2010 years to 2014.
although exports rose in Having said that, US clothing exports rose in 2014 for the fifth
each of the five years to 2014 consecutive year to their highest level since 2001.
China remained the Clothing exports from China, the worlds largest clothing exporter,
worlds largest clothing grew in 2014 for the fifth consecutive yearby 5.2% to a record high
exporter in 2014 as of US$186.61 bn.
Chinese clothing exports
rose for the fifth As a result, China accounted for as much as 38.6% of world clothing
consecutive year exports during the year.
Between 2010 and 2014, Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014, Chinese clothing exports rose by
Chinese clothing exports an average of 9.5% per annum. This represented the fifth fastest growth
rose by an average of rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15 largest
9.5% per annum clothing exporters in 2014behind the growth rates achieved by
Cambodia, Vietnam, Bangladesh and India.
EU clothing exports Clothing exports from the EU rose by 6.7% to a record high of
rose by 6.7% to a US$126.59 bn in 2014 following an 8.0% increase in the previous
record high in 2014 year.
Extra-EU clothing Within the total for 2014, extra-EU clothing exportsor exports to
exports rose by 4.6% to countries outside the EUrose by 4.6% to US$31.98 bn. This
a record high for the represented a record high for the fourth consecutive year as the rise
fourth consecutive year followed increases of 8.2% in 2013, 2.5% in 2012 and 25.7% in 2011.
But extra-EU clothing Furthermore, the EUs share of world clothing exports rose to 26.2% in
exports alone were worth 2014 from 25.8% in the previous year, although it remained below the
barely a quarter of total levels seen prior to 2012. Extra-EU clothing exports alone were worth
EU clothing exports barely a quarter of total EU clothing exports, and represented just 6.6%
of world clothing exports.
Clothing exports from Clothing exports from Bangladeshthe worlds third largest clothing
Bangladesh rose in 2014 exporterrose by 4.6% to US$24.58 bn in 2014. The rise represented
for the 13th year in the 13th in succession and, as a result, Bangladeshi clothing exports
succession and were worth were worth more than five times as much in 2014 as they were worth in
more than five times as 2001, when they were valued at US$4.77 bn.
much as they were in 2001,
although the rise in 2014 Having said that, the rise in 2014, at 4.6%, represented a sharp
alone represented a sharp slowdown compared with the 18.8% increase recorded in the previous
slowdown compared with year. Also, it was much slower than the average growth rate of 13.4%
the average growth rate of per annum between 2010 and 2014. Indeed, the latter represented the
13.4% per annum between third fastest growth rate among the countries which constituted the
2010 and 2014 worlds 15 largest clothing exporters in 2014.
Hong Kongs clothing exports Clothing exports from Hong Kong fell by 6.4% to US$20.51 bn in 2014
fell by 6.4% in 2014 to their following declines of 2.9% in 2013 and 7.9% in 2012. As a result, Hong
lowest level since 1992 Kong clothing exports in 2014 were at their lowest level since 1992.
The fall was due to The fall in Hong Kong clothing exports in 2014 was due to declines in
declines in domestic domestic exports and re-exports. Domestic exports fell by 6.4% to just
exports of clothing and US$200 mn, having plummeted by an average of 14.8% per annum
re-exports of clothing between 2010 and 2014. Perhaps more worrying for Hong Kong though
was a decline in re-exports, suggesting a drop in distribution hub
activity (see also page 80). These were down by 6.4% in 2014, having
declined by an average of 1.6% per annum between 2010 and 2014.
It is likely that Vietnam As a result, Vietnam remained the worlds fifth largest clothing exporter
surpassed Hong Kong to in 2014.
become the worlds
fourth largest clothing However, Vietnam is likely to have surpassed Hong Kong in 2015 to
exporter in 2015 become the worlds fourth largest clothing exporter during the year.
Indian clothing exports Indian clothing exports rose by 14.2% to a record high of US$17.74 bn
rose by 14.2% to a record in 2014 following an 11.6% increase in the previous year. The rise in
high in 2014 following an 2014 represented the second fastest increase among the worlds 15
11.6% increase in 2013, largest clothing exporters.
having been aided by the
sharp depreciation of the The surge in exports during 2013 and 2014 was aided by the sharp
rupee depreciation of the Indian rupee (see page 84).
Turkish clothing exports Turkish clothing exports rose by 8.4% to US$16.68 bn in 2014
rose by 8.4% in 2014 and following increases of 7.7% in 2013, 2.5% in 2012, 9.3% in 2011 and
reached a record high for 10.4% in 2010. As a result, exports reached a record high in 2014 for
the fourth consecutive year the fourth consecutive year.
Indonesias clothing Clothing exports from Indonesia, the worlds eighth largest clothing
exports fell by 0.3% in exporter, fell by 0.3% to US$7.67 bn in 2014 following a 2.2% rise in
2014 but were still at their 2013 and a 6.5% decline in 2012. However, the latter came after
third highest level on increases of 18.0% in 2011 and 15.3% in 2010. As a result, Indonesian
record clothing exports in 2014 were below the peak reached in 2011 and the
level reached in 2013 but were still at their third highest level on record.
Between 2010 and 2014, Having said that, between 2010 and 2014 Indonesian clothing exports
Indonesian clothing rose by an average of only 3.0% per annum. This represented the fourth
exports rose by an average slowest growth rate among the countries which constituted the worlds
of only 3.0% per annum 15 largest clothing exporters in 2014.
US clothing exports rose by Clothing exports from the USA, the worlds ninth largest clothing
4.2% in 2014 to their exporter, rose by 4.2% to US$6.11 bn in 2014 following increases of
highest level since 2001 4.6% in 2013, 7.0% in 2012, 11.7% in 2011 and 12.1% in 2010. As a
result, US clothing exports reached their highest level since 2001.
The rise was the sixth in The upward trend in US clothing exports in recent years represents a
seven years turnaround. Between 2000 and 2007, US clothing exports declined for
seven years in a row but in six of the seven years to 2014 they increased.
Cambodian clothing Clothing exports from Cambodia shot up by 16.8% to a record high of
exports shot up by 16.8% US$5.87 bn in 2014 following a 17.0% jump in the previous year. The
to a record high in 2014, rise in 2014 represented the fastest increase among the worlds 15
having increased by an largest clothing exporters.
average of 17.9% per
annum between 2010 and Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014 Cambodian clothing exports rose
2014 by an average of 17.9% per annum. This also represented the fastest
increase in clothing exports among the countries which constituted the
worlds 15 largest clothing exporters in 2014.
Pakistani clothing exports Clothing exports from Pakistan rose by 9.7% to a record high of
rose by 9.7% to record US$4.99 bn in 2014 following a 7.9% increase in the previous year.
high in 2014 and the
country climbed one place As a result, the country climbed a further place in the rankings in 2014
to become the 11th largest to become the worlds 11th largest clothing exporter, ahead of Malaysia,
clothing exporter having climbed two places in the previous year.
Sri Lankan clothing Sri Lankan clothing exports rose by 8.9% to a record high of
exports rose by 8.9% to a US$4.92 bn in 2014 following a 12.8% increase in the previous year. As
record high in 2014, having a result, the country climbed two places in the rankings to become the
also risen by an average of worlds 12th largest clothing exporter.
8.9% per annum between
2010 and 2014, and the Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014, Sri Lankan clothing exports grew
country climbed two places by an average of 8.9% per annum, which represented the sixth fastest
to become the 12th largest growth rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15
clothing exporter largest clothing exporters in 2014.
Malaysian clothing exports Malaysian clothing exports rose by 4.1% to a record high of
rose by 4.1% to a record US$4.77 bn in 2014. Furthermore, the rise represented a pick-up in
high in 2014 but the growth following an increase of just 0.5% in 2013 and a 0.2% decline
country slipped two places in 2012. However, the country slipped two places in the rankings to
to become the worlds 13th become the worlds 13th largest clothing exporter during the year,
largest clothing exporter behind Pakistan and Sri Lanka.
Mexican clothing exports Mexican clothing exports rose by 1.9% to US$4.62 bn in 2014
rose by 1.9% but remained following a 1.8% increase in 2013. However, the latter came after a
below the levels seen prior 4.1% decline in 2012 and, as a result, Mexican clothing exports
to 2009 and in 2011 remained below the level reached in 2011. They were also below the
levels seen prior to 2009.
Also, the country slipped a Furthermore, the country slipped a further place in the rankings in 2014
further place in the to become the 14th largest clothing exporter, behind Sri Lanka, having
rankings to 14th position slipped two places in the previous year.
Thai clothing exports rose Thai clothing exports rose by 0.7% to US$4.13 bn in 2014. However,
by 0.7% in 2014 but this the rise followed declines of 4.1% in 2013 and 6.3% in 2012.
followed declines in 2013 Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014 Thai clothing exports declined by
and 2012 and, as a result, an average of 1.0% per annum, which represented one of only two
exports were lower than declines in exports among the countries which constituted the worlds
the levels seen during 15 largest clothing exporters in 2014. As a result, Thai clothing exports
2010-12 were lower in 2014 than the levels seen during 2010-12 as well as the
levels seen in 2006 and 2008. However, they remained above the levels
seen in the ten years prior to 2006.
The Thai clothing industry The Thai clothing industry has worked hard to maintain its position in
has worked hard to maintain the post-quota era. However, Thai clothing exports were at more or less
its position in the post-quota the same level in 2014 as they had been in 2005 while exports from
era and has maintained its almost all of the countries which constituted the worlds 15 largest
level of exports but its share clothing exporters in 2014 increased between 2005 and 2014. As a
of world clothing exports has result, Thailands share of world clothing exports has declined and the
declined country has slipped in the rankings.
Even without intra-EU Furthermore, even after the deduction of intra-EU tradeie trade
trade it took 19.7%, which between EU member statesthe EU still accounted for 19.7%, or
explains why it is a prime US$103.65 bn worth, of world clothing imports in 2014. It is little
target for foreign suppliers wonder, therefore, that the EU market is a prime target for foreign
suppliers of clothing.
Furthermore, these shares Furthermore, these shares were up compared with the previous year as
were up compared with EU clothing imports rose by 8.2% in 2014, which was much faster than
the previous year as EU the 4.6% increase in world clothing imports.
clothing imports rose
much faster than world In fact, the rise in EU clothing imports represented the fourth fastest
clothing imports growth rate among the worlds 15 largest clothing importers.
Also, EU clothing imports Moreover, the rise in EU clothing imports in 2014 came after a 5.0%
reached a record high in increase in the previous year and, as a result, imports reached a record
2014 high in 2014.
The USAs share of world The USA, in second place, took 17.7%, or US$93.16 bn worth, of the
clothing imports was down worlds clothing imports in 2014. However, this share was down
in 2014 as US clothing compared with the previous year as US clothing imports were up by
imports rose by only 2.3% only 2.3%.
Furthermore, US clothing Furthermore, US clothing imports grew by an average of only 3.3% per
imports grew by only 3.3% annum between 2010 and 2014, which represented the third slowest
per annum between 2010 growth rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15
and 2014 largest clothing importers in 2014.
Japanese clothing imports In Japan, clothing imports fell by a sharp 7.3% to US$31.16 bn in 2014
declined by 7.3% in 2014 following a 0.9% decline in the previous year. The fall in 2014
and the countrys share of represented the steepest decline among the worlds 15 largest clothing
world clothing imports fell importers. As a result, Japanese clothing imports were at their lowest
to 5.9% level since 2010 and the countrys share of world clothing imports fell
to 5.9%.
Having said that, the Having said that, the decline in Japanese clothing imports in 2014
decline in imports in 2014 reflected a 7.8% depreciation of the Japanese yen against the US dollar.
reflected a 7.8% Indeed, in terms of yen, Japanese clothing imports rose by 0.5%.
depreciation of the The depreciation came after a sharp 18.2% depreciation in the previous
Japanese yen against the year. Furthermore, in 2015 the yen depreciated against the US dollar
US dollar by a further 12.5% to its weakest level since 2002 (see Table 9 on
page 101).
Hong Kong clothing Clothing imports into Hong Kong fell by 1.7% to US$16.17 bn in 2014.
imports fell by 1.7% in Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014 Hong Kong clothing imports fell
2014 to their second by an average of 0.7% per annum, which represented the only decline
lowest level since 2003 among the countries which constituted the worlds 15 largest clothing
importers in 2014. As a result, Hong Kong clothing imports in 2014
were at their lowest level since 2009 and their second lowest level since
2003. Nevertheless, the territory remained the worlds fourth largest
clothing importer in 2014.
Since the elimination of The decline in Hong Kong clothing imports between 2010 and 2014
quotas at the end of 2004 occurred because most, if not all, of the growth in previous years had
and the abolition of been in the form of imports intended for re-export. But since the global
safeguard restrictions at elimination of quotas under the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing
the end of 2008, Hong (ATCsee page 67) at the end of 2004, and the abolition of safeguard
Kongs role as a quotas against imports from China in the EU at the end of 2007 and in
transshipment hub has the USA at the end of 2008 (see page 80), the role of Hong Kong as a
diminished transshipment hub has diminished and re-exports have declined as a
result.
Canadian clothing Clothing imports into Canada rose by 1.3% to US$10.08 bn in 2014.
imports rose by 1.3% in The rise represented a slowdown compared with a growth rate of 6.2%
2014 and reached a record in 2013 and an average growth rate of 4.9% per annum between 2010
high for the second and 2014. Nevertheless, Canadian clothing imports reached a record
consecutive year high in 2014 for the second consecutive year and Canada remained the
worlds fifth largest clothing importer.
Canada has become Canada has become progressively less self-sufficient in clothing as its
progressively less self- manufacturing industry has declined, and it has therefore had to import
sufficient in clothing increasing amounts of clothing.
Russian clothing imports Clothing imports into Russia, the worlds sixth largest clothing
fell by 5.6% in 2014 to importer, fell by 5.6% to US$8.51 bn in 2014 following a 2.5% decline
their lowest level since in the previous year. As a result, Russian clothing imports fell to their
2010 lowest level since 2010, although they remained well above the levels
seen in prior years.
The fall reflected the The fall in Russian clothing imports in 2014 reflected the Russian
Russian economic crisis, economic crisis, which was caused partly by the imposition of sanctions
which was caused partly by on Russian individuals and businesses by a number of Western countries
sanctions and partly by the (see page 74) and partly by the sharp decline in crude oil prices (see
sharp decline in crude oil page 64). Both have had a negative effect on the countrys GDP and, as
prices a result, the value of the rouble has fallen significantly (see page 75).
South Korean clothing South Korean clothing imports rose by 12.5% to US$8.47 bn in 2014
imports rose by 12.5% in following increases of 20.2% in 2013, 2.6% in 2012, 37.5% in 2011 and
2014 and reached a record 31.5% in 2010. As a result, they reached a record high in 2014 for the
high for the fifth fifth consecutive year. Furthermore, the rise in imports in 2014
consecutive year represented the second fastest growth rate among the worlds 15 largest
clothing importers.
Imports rose for much of The increase in 2010 had come after two years of decline but the latter
the 2000s, which is likely to followed nine years of consecutive growth which saw imports increase
have been due to the more than eight-fold, from just US$504 mn in 1998 to US$4.32 bn in
contraction of South 2007.
Koreas clothing industry
The growth in imports since 1998 is likely to have been due to the
contraction of the clothing industry in South Korea and hence the
countrys declining self-sufficiency.
Australian clothing imports Clothing imports into Australia rose by 4.3% to US$6.52 bn in 2014
rose by 4.3% in 2014 and following increases of 2.9% in 2013, 4.1% in 2012, 20.8% in 2011 and
reached a record high for 19.1% in 2010. As a result, Australian clothing imports reached a record
the fifth consecutive year high in 2014 for the fifth consecutive year.
The rise in 2014 In fact, the rise in 2014 represented the 12th increase in 13 years and
represented the 12th over the 13-year period clothing imports into Australia more or less
increase in 13 years quadrupled, from US$1.64 bn in 2001 to US$6.52 bn in 2014.
Swiss clothing imports Clothing imports into Switzerland rose by 3.8% to US$6.13 bn in 2014.
rose by 3.8% in 2014 to The rise followed a 3.2% increase in 2013 but this came after a 6.8%
their second highest level decline in 2012. As a result, Swiss clothing imports in 2014 remained
on record just short of the peak reached in 2011. However, they were still at their
second highest level on record.
Clothing imports into Clothing imports into China, a country noted more for exports than for
China rose by 14.8% in imports, rose by 14.8% to US$6.12 bn in 2014. The rise was the fastest
2014 and reached a record increase among the worlds 15 largest clothing importers. Furthermore,
high for the fifth it represented the fifth successive double digit rise, having followed
consecutive year increases of 18.0% in 2013, 12.7% in 2012, 59.3% in 2011 and 36.7%
in 2010. As a result, Chinese clothing imports reached a record high for
the fifth consecutive year and China remained the worlds tenth largest
clothing importer.
Chinese clothing imports Clothing imports into China were heavily restricted for some time
have grown as Chinas and remained extremely small.
consumer market has
developed and the market But imports have grown over the years as the Chinese consumer market
has opened up to foreign has developed at a rapid pace and as the Chinese market has become
brands more open to the entry of foreign brands.
Clothing imports into the Clothing imports into the United Arab Emirates (UAE) fell by 0.9%
UAE fell by 0.9% in 2014 to US$3.88 bn in 2014.
but were still at their
second highest level on However, the fall followed increases of 9.9% in 2013, 13.3% in 2012
record and 21.2% in 2011. As a result, UAE clothing imports in 2014 were at
their second highest level on record.
Also, the UAE was the fifth In fact, between 2010 and 2014 clothing imports into the UAE grew by
fastest growing major an average of 10.6% per annum, which represented the fifth fastest
clothing import market growth rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15
between 2010 and 2014 largest clothing importers in 2014.
Mexican clothing imports Clothing imports into Mexico rose by 11.0% to US$3.59 bn in 2014.
rose by 11.0% in 2014 to The rise represented the third fastest increase among imports from the
their highest level since worlds 15 largest clothing importers. Furthermore, it followed
2000 increases of 9.0% in 2013, 8.0% in 2012, 19.6% in 2011 and 8.6% in
2010. As a result, Mexican clothing imports in 2014 were at their
highest level since 2000.
Furthermore, Mexican Prior to 2010, Mexican clothing imports had fallen in ten of the
clothing imports are likely previous 11 years. Nevertheless, it is likely that they will continue to
to continue to grow in the grow in the coming years. In October 2008 Mexico eliminated strict
coming years following the anti-dumping tariffs on imports from China and replaced them with so-
elimination of transition called transition tariffs18 after reaching a bilateral agreement with the
tariffs on imports from country. On December 12, 2011, however, the transition tariffs were
China eliminated altogether, and Mexicos import market was opened up to
cheaper imports from China.
18
See also World textile and apparel trade and production trends: the USA, Argentina, Brazil, Colombia and
Mexico, Textile Outlook International, No 173, February 2015. An update of this report is planned for a
forthcoming issue of Textile Outlook International.
Clothing imports into Clothing imports into Turkey rose by 2.8% to US$3.23 bn in 2014
Turkey rose by 2.8% in following a 17.3% jump in 2012. However, the latter followed an 18.2%
2014 to their second highest decline in 2012 and, as a result, Turkish clothing imports in 2014
level on record and the remained short of the peak reached in 2011. Nevertheless, they were
country climbed one place still at their second highest level on record. Furthermore, Turkey
to become the worlds 13th climbed one place in the rankings to become the worlds 13th largest
largest clothing importer clothing importer, ahead of Saudi Arabia.
Clothing imports into Clothing imports into Saudi Arabia fell by 0.4% to US$3.19 bn in 2014
Saudi Arabia fell by 0.4% and the country slipped one place in the rankings to become the worlds
in 2014 14th largest clothing importer, behind Turkey.
But this followed an However, the fall followed increases in each of the previous four years.
increase in each of the In fact, between 2010 and 2014, Saudi Arabian clothing imports rose by
previous four years and, as an average of 9.2% per annum, which represented the sixth fastest
a result, Saudi Arabian growth rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15
clothing imports in 2014 largest clothing importers in 2014.
were at their second
highest level on record As a result, Saudi Arabian clothing imports in 2014 were at their second
highest level on record.
Clothing imports into Chile Clothing imports into Chile rose by 4.5% to a record high of
rose by 4.5% to a record US$2.98 bn in 2014. In fact, the rise represented the 11th in 12 years
high in 2014 and the and over the 12-year period Chilean clothing imports grew more than
country became the six-fold, from just US$488 mn in 2002 to US$2.98 bn in 2014. As a
worlds 15th largest result, Chile entered the list of the worlds 15 largest clothing importers
clothing importer in 2014, in 15th position.
Furthermore, between 2010 Furthermore, between 2010 and 2014 Chilean clothing imports rose by
and 2014 Chilean clothing an average of 12.6% per annum, which represented the third fastest
imports increased by an growth rate among the countries which constituted the worlds 15
average of 12.6% per annum largest clothing importers in 2014.
STATISTICAL APPENDIX
Table 9: Changes in the exchange rates of selected Asian countries and the EU against the US dollar, 2nd qtr 1997-2015
(% changea)
2nd Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan- Jan-
qtr Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec Dec
1997 1998 1999 2000 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
China 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 4 9 19 21 23 28 31 35 35 32
Hong Kong 0 0 0 -1 -1 -1 0 0 -1 -1 0 0 -1 0 0 0 0
India 0 -13 -17 -20 -23 -21 -19 -21 -13 -18 -26 -22 -23 -33 -39 -41 -44
Indonesia 0 -76 -69 -71 -72 -73 -75 -74 -73 -75 -77 -73 -72 -74 -77 -80 -82
Japan 0 -9 5 11 3 11 9 3 2 16 28 36 50 50 23 13 -1
Malaysia 0 -36 -34 -34 -34 -34 -34 -32 -27 -25 -29 -22 -18 -19 -20 -23 -36
Pakistan 0 -17 -22 -25 -30 -31 -32 -33 -34 -43 -51 -53 -53 -57 -60 -60 -61
South Korea 0 -36 -25 -21 -25 -22 -13 -7 -4 -19 -30 -23 -20 -21 -19 -16 -21
Taiwan 0 -17 -14 -11 -19 -17 -14 -15 -16 -12 -16 -12 -6 -6 -7 -9 -13
Thailand 0 -38 -33 -37 -39 -37 -37 -33 -21 -23 -26 -20 -17 -18 -17 -22 -26
EU 0 -2 -6 -19 -1 9 9 10 20 28 22 16 22 13 17 16 -3
a
Based on US dollars per unit of currency relative to the 2nd quarter of 1997.
Source: Pacific Exchange Rate Services.
Table 10: Share of textile trade in total merchandise trade and in trade in manufactures, by region, 2014
(%)
Share of textiles in Share of textiles in
total merchandise trade trade in manufactures
Exports Imports Exports Imports
North America 0.8 1.3 1.1 1.8
South and Central America 0.6 2.4 2.2 3.7
Europe 1.3 1.5 1.7 2.1
CISa 0.7 2.7 3.2 3.6
Africa 0.6 3.5 2.9 5.5
Middle East 0.5 2.2 2.2 3.1
Asia 3.2 1.8 4.0 3.0
of which:
Australia, Japan and New Zealand 0.7 1.3 1.1 2.3
other Asia 3.7 1.9 4.4 3.1
World 1.7 1.7 2.6 2.6
a
Commonwealth of Independent States, comprising Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyz Republic,
Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine and Uzbekistan.
Source: World Trade Organization (WTO).
Table 11: Share of clothing trade in total merchandise trade and in trade in manufactures, by region, 2014
(%)
Share of clothing in Share of clothing in
total merchandise trade trade in manufactures
Exports Imports Exports Imports
North America 0.5 3.3 0.7 4.4
South and Central America 1.9 2.0 7.3 3.0
Europe 2.2 3.2 2.9 4.7
CISa 0.4 4.9 1.7 6.5
Africa 1.9 2.1 9.0 3.2
Middle East 0.7 2.8 3.3 3.9
Asia 4.9 1.4 6.1 2.3
of which:
Australia, Japan and New Zealand 0.1 3.7 0.2 6.3
other Asia 5.8 0.9 7.0 1.5
World 2.6 2.6 3.9 3.9
a
Commonwealth of Independent States, comprising Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyz Republic,
Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine and Uzbekistan.
Source: World Trade Organization (WTO).
Share in Share in
Value regions exports world exports Annual average % change
2014 2010 2014 2010 2014 2010-14 2012-13 2013-14
(US$ bn) (%) (%) (%) (%) (%) (%) (%)
From Asia to:
Asia 88.25 48.0 47.0 22.6 28.1 7.9 10.8 2.3
Europe 30.12 17.2 16.1 8.1 9.6 5.4 9.8 6.5
North America 26.18 16.6 14.0 7.8 8.3 6.3 7.0 2.9
Africa 14.62 5.4 7.8 2.5 4.7 10.2 6.1 7.5
Middle East 11.81 6.8 6.3 3.2 3.8 7.0 7.1 3.8
South and Central America 9.81 3.8 5.2 1.8 3.1 4.9 -1.9 1.6
CISa 6.75 2.1 3.6 1.0 2.2 8.8 7.6 -5.4
World 187.59 100.0 100.0 47.1 59.7 7.2 8.7 3.1
World exports 314.08 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 5.6 7.2 3.3
NB: numbers and percentage share calculations may not sum precisely due to rounding.
a
Commonwealth of Independent States, comprising Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyz Republic,
Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine and Uzbekistan.
Source: World Trade Organization (WTO).
Share in Share in
Value regions exports world exports Annual average % change
2014 2010 2014 2010 2014 2010-14 2012-13 2013-14
(US$ bn) (%) (%) (%) (%) (%) (%) (%)
From Asia to:
Europe 88.22 32.5 30.5 18.2 18.3 8.1 10.7 10.8
North America 78.16 31.0 27.0 17.4 16.2 6.1 8.9 4.5
Asia 67.23 20.7 23.2 11.6 13.9 13.0 12.1 -1.6
CISa 17.14 5.7 5.9 3.2 3.5 10.8 30.9 1.1
Middle East 15.96 4.2 5.5 2.4 3.3 17.3 16.6 13.4
South and Central America 9.73 3.3 3.4 1.8 2.0 10.4 -7.9 2.3
Africa 9.96 2.4 3.4 1.4 2.1 19.9 3.3 27.5
World 289.53 100.0 100.0 56.0 59.9 9.9 11.1 6.0
World exports 483.28 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 8.1 9.6 5.1
a
Commonwealth of Independent States, comprising Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyz Republic,
Moldova, Russia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine and Uzbekistan.
Source: World Trade Organization (WTO).
Table 18: Trade in textiles and clothing for selected economies, 1980-2014
(US$ bn)
Textiles Clothing Textiles and clothing
Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance
EU28a
1980 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a
1990 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a
2000 56.82 57.67 -0.85 56.71 83.46 -26.75 113.53 141.13 -27.60
2005 70.69 72.25 -1.57 86.27 132.16 -45.89 156.95 204.41 -47.46
2006 74.06 77.00 -2.94 92.37 145.49 -53.12 166.43 222.49 -56.06
2007 82.32 86.42 -4.11 106.26 166.58 -60.32 188.58 253.00 -64.42
2008 81.53 85.83 -4.30 115.32 181.44 -66.13 196.84 267.27 -70.43
2009 63.12 67.32 -4.20 98.78 162.80 -64.02 161.90 230.12 -68.22
2010 68.00 74.42 -6.42 100.70 167.50 -66.80 168.70 241.92 -73.22
2011 77.14 85.21 -8.07 117.41 191.80 -74.39 194.54 277.01 -82.46
2012 69.72 75.03 -5.30 109.85 174.53 -64.67 179.58 249.55 -69.98
2013 72.28 78.73 -6.45 118.64 183.19 -64.55 190.92 261.93 -71.00
2014 74.83 83.18 -8.35 126.59 198.26 -71.67 201.41 281.44 -80.02
France
1980 3.43 4.12 -0.69 2.29 2.64 -0.34 5.73 6.76 -1.03
1990 6.06 7.60 -1.54 4.67 8.38 -3.71 10.73 15.98 -5.25
2000 6.66 6.75 -0.09 5.41 11.41 -6.00 12.08 18.16 -6.09
2005 7.00 7.65 -0.65 8.50 18.00 -9.50 15.50 25.64 -10.15
2006 7.02 7.87 -0.85 9.25 18.98 -9.73 16.27 26.85 -10.57
2007 7.65 8.80 -1.15 10.94 21.61 -10.67 18.59 30.41 -11.82
2008 7.37 8.78 -1.41 11.64 23.68 -12.04 19.01 32.46 -13.45
2009 5.63 7.07 -1.44 10.12 21.41 -11.29 15.75 28.48 -12.73
2010 5.71 7.55 -1.84 10.07 21.99 -11.93 15.77 29.54 -13.77
2011 6.11 8.28 -2.17 11.05 24.70 -13.65 17.16 32.98 -15.82
2012 5.35 7.35 -1.99 10.34 22.21 -11.87 15.69 29.56 -13.87
2013 5.44 7.49 -2.05 11.12 23.59 -12.47 16.56 31.08 -14.52
2014 5.56 7.64 -2.08 11.60 25.00 -13.40 17.17 32.64 -15.48
Germany
1980 6.30 6.87 -0.58 2.88 8.33 -5.44 9.18 15.20 -6.02
1990 14.03 11.87 2.17 7.88 20.41 -12.53 21.92 32.28 -10.36
2000 10.85 10.01 0.84 7.32 20.18 -12.86 18.17 30.19 -12.02
2005 13.58 11.86 1.71 12.39 25.15 -12.76 25.97 37.02 -11.05
2006 14.46 12.60 1.86 13.91 27.24 -13.33 28.37 39.84 -11.47
2007 16.15 14.25 1.90 16.72 30.61 -13.89 32.86 44.85 -11.99
2008 16.31 14.46 1.85 18.75 33.45 -14.70 35.06 47.92 -12.85
2009 12.90 11.75 1.15 16.98 31.52 -14.55 29.88 43.28 -13.39
2010 14.15 13.03 1.13 17.30 32.29 -14.99 31.46 45.32 -13.86
2011 16.30 15.42 0.88 19.46 38.81 -19.35 35.76 54.23 -18.47
2012 14.53 13.24 1.29 17.47 33.81 -16.34 32.00 47.05 -15.05
2013 14.98 13.89 1.09 18.58 35.80 -17.23 33.55 49.69 -16.14
2014 15.36 14.33 1.04 19.69 37.71 -18.01 35.06 52.03 -16.98
Italy
1980 4.16 2.62 1.54 4.58 0.80 3.79 8.74 3.42 5.33
1990 9.49 6.13 3.36 11.84 2.58 9.26 21.33 8.71 12.62
2000 12.04 6.21 5.83 13.38 6.14 7.25 25.42 12.35 13.07
2005 14.83 7.43 7.41 18.66 12.20 6.46 33.49 19.62 13.86
2006 15.39 8.24 7.15 20.04 14.12 5.92 35.43 22.36 13.07
2007 16.62 9.37 7.25 23.25 15.92 7.33 39.87 25.29 14.58
2008 16.12 9.15 6.97 25.26 17.48 7.78 41.38 26.63 14.75
2009 11.80 6.96 4.84 19.64 15.55 4.09 31.44 22.52 8.92
2010 12.97 8.50 4.47 20.12 16.40 3.72 33.09 24.90 8.19
2011 14.73 9.96 4.77 23.27 18.63 4.65 38.00 28.58 9.42
2012 13.17 8.01 5.15 22.17 15.83 6.33 35.33 23.84 11.49
2013 13.47 8.52 4.95 23.74 15.82 7.92 37.21 24.34 12.87
2014 13.94 9.00 4.94 24.76 17.17 7.59 38.71 26.17 12.54
(continued)
Table 18 (continued): Trade in textiles and clothing for selected economies, 1980-2014
(US$ bn)
Textiles Clothing Textiles and clothing
Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance
UK
1980 3.30 3.56 -0.26 1.81 2.86 -1.05 5.10 6.42 -1.31
1990 4.38 7.02 -2.64 3.04 6.96 -3.92 7.42 13.98 -6.56
2000 4.64 6.89 -2.25 4.14 12.99 -8.86 8.78 19.88 -11.10
2005 4.81 7.23 -2.42 4.91 20.23 -15.32 9.72 27.46 -17.74
2006 4.93 7.60 -2.67 5.27 21.64 -16.37 10.19 29.24 -19.05
2007 5.15 8.35 -3.20 6.09 23.98 -17.89 11.24 32.33 -21.09
2008 4.75 7.61 -2.86 5.92 23.59 -17.67 10.67 31.20 -20.53
2009 3.65 6.10 -2.45 5.20 21.13 -15.93 8.85 27.24 -18.38
2010 3.98 6.67 -2.69 5.49 20.82 -15.33 9.47 27.49 -18.02
2011 4.44 7.40 -2.96 6.56 23.02 -16.45 11.00 30.41 -19.41
2012 4.28 7.18 -2.91 6.85 22.46 -15.61 11.12 29.64 -18.52
2013 4.35 7.38 -3.04 7.52 23.01 -15.49 11.86 30.39 -18.53
2014 4.40 7.41 -3.00 8.43 24.55 -16.12 12.83 31.95 -19.12
Switzerland
1980 1.53 1.19 0.34 0.37 1.46 -1.09 1.90 2.65 -0.75
1990 2.56 1.85 0.71 0.69 3.44 -2.75 3.24 5.29 -2.04
2000 1.28 1.30 -0.02 0.61 3.18 -2.57 1.89 4.48 -2.59
2005 1.31 1.63 -0.32 1.53 4.45 -2.93 2.84 6.08 -3.24
2006 1.34 1.75 -0.41 1.62 4.65 -3.03 2.96 6.41 -3.44
2007 1.49 1.97 -0.49 1.77 5.18 -3.41 3.26 7.15 -3.90
2008 1.51 2.11 -0.60 1.92 5.80 -3.88 3.43 7.91 -4.48
2009 1.16 1.78 -0.62 1.62 5.24 -3.63 2.77 7.02 -4.25
2010 1.26 1.93 -0.67 1.37 5.29 -3.92 2.63 7.22 -4.59
2011 1.38 2.24 -0.85 1.54 6.14 -4.60 2.93 8.37 -5.45
2012 1.17 1.99 -0.83 1.41 5.72 -4.31 2.58 7.71 -5.14
2013 1.16 2.06 -0.89 1.39 5.90 -4.52 2.55 7.96 -5.41
2014 1.25 2.25 -1.01 1.39 6.13 -4.75 2.63 8.38 -5.75
Turkey
1980 0.34 0.08 0.26 0.13 0.00 0.13 0.47 0.08 0.39
1990 1.44 0.57 0.87 3.33 0.02 3.31 4.77 0.58 4.19
2000 3.67 2.12 1.55 6.53 0.26 6.27 10.21 2.39 7.82
2005 7.08 4.44 2.63 11.83 0.79 11.05 18.91 5.23 13.68
2006 7.58 4.69 2.90 12.05 1.10 10.95 19.64 5.78 13.85
2007 8.94 6.01 2.93 13.89 1.57 12.32 22.83 7.58 15.25
2008 9.40 5.65 3.75 13.59 2.22 11.37 22.99 7.86 15.13
2009 7.72 4.72 3.01 11.56 2.15 9.41 19.28 6.87 12.41
2010 8.96 6.54 2.42 12.76 2.84 9.93 21.72 9.37 12.35
2011 10.77 7.56 3.22 13.95 3.27 10.68 24.72 10.83 13.89
2012 11.05 6.44 4.61 14.29 2.68 11.61 25.34 9.12 16.23
2013 12.15 6.79 5.36 15.39 3.14 12.25 27.54 9.93 17.61
2014 12.52 7.12 5.40 16.68 3.23 13.45 29.20 10.35 18.86
Tunisiab
1980 0.05 0.24 -0.19 0.34 0.08 0.26 0.39 0.32 0.07
1990 0.11 0.79 -0.68 1.13 0.19 0.94 1.24 0.98 0.26
2000 0.15 1.21 -1.05 2.23 0.44 1.79 2.38 1.64 0.74
2005 0.33 1.61 -1.29 3.12 0.57 2.56 3.45 2.18 1.27
2006 0.35 1.59 -1.24 3.02 0.55 2.47 3.37 2.14 1.22
2007 0.50 2.00 -1.50 3.57 0.64 2.93 4.07 2.64 1.43
2008 0.48 2.09 -1.61 3.77 0.64 3.13 4.24 2.72 1.52
2009 0.40 1.75 -1.35 3.12 0.53 2.59 3.52 2.28 1.23
2010 0.45 1.84 -1.40 3.09 0.54 2.55 3.53 2.38 1.15
2011 0.47 2.03 -1.56 3.32 0.55 2.77 3.79 2.58 1.21
2012 0.42 1.70 -1.28 2.72 0.45 2.27 3.15 2.15 0.99
2013 0.41 1.71 -1.30 2.80 0.47 2.33 3.22 2.18 1.04
2014 0.41 1.74 -1.33 2.72 0.47 2.25 3.13 2.21 0.92
(continued)
Table 18 (continued): Trade in textiles and clothing for selected economies, 1980-2014
(US$ bn)
Textiles Clothing Textiles and clothing
Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance
Moroccoc
1980 0.12 0.14 -0.01 0.11 0.00 0.11 0.23 0.14 0.09
1990 0.20 0.36 -0.16 0.72 0.01 0.71 0.93 0.37 0.56
2000 0.12 1.36 -1.24 2.40 0.23 2.17 2.52 1.60 0.93
2005 0.19 1.79 -1.60 2.85 0.28 2.56 3.04 2.07 0.97
2006 0.24 1.91 -1.67 3.24 0.27 2.96 3.48 2.19 1.29
2007 0.33 2.31 -1.98 3.52 0.32 3.20 3.84 2.63 1.22
2008 0.33 2.36 -2.03 3.42 0.36 3.06 3.75 2.72 1.03
2009 0.31 2.01 -1.71 3.09 0.30 2.79 3.39 2.31 1.08
2010 0.34 2.03 -1.69 3.01 0.30 2.71 3.34 2.32 1.02
2011 0.41 2.44 -2.03 3.27 0.37 2.90 3.69 2.81 0.87
2012 0.36 2.41 -2.06 3.22 0.38 2.84 3.58 2.80 0.78
2013 0.36 2.48 -2.12 3.15 0.34 2.81 3.52 2.82 0.70
2014 0.42 2.70 -2.28 3.28 0.40 2.88 3.70 3.10 0.60
Russiad
1980 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a
1990 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a
2000 0.48 0.71 -0.71 0.44 0.20 0.24 0.44 0.91 -0.47
2005 0.49 1.23 -0.74 0.25 0.93 -0.68 0.74 2.17 -1.43
2006 0.53 1.68 -1.15 0.22 1.72 -1.50 0.75 3.40 -2.65
2007 0.50 2.37 -1.87 0.15 3.18 -3.03 0.65 5.55 -4.90
2008 0.47 2.96 -2.49 0.15 4.72 -4.57 0.62 7.67 -7.05
2009 0.41 2.34 -1.93 0.11 4.08 -3.96 0.52 6.42 -5.90
2010 0.59 3.55 -2.96 0.13 7.54 -7.41 0.73 11.09 -10.36
2011 0.67 4.44 -3.76 0.23 9.24 -9.01 0.91 13.68 -12.77
2012 0.58 4.66 -4.08 0.31 9.25 -8.94 0.89 13.91 -13.02
2013 0.59 4.36 -3.78 0.40 9.01 -8.61 0.99 13.38 -12.39
2014 1.92 4.10 -2.18 0.34 8.51 -8.17 2.26 12.61 -10.35
USA
1980 3.76 2.54 1.21 1.26 6.94 -5.68 5.02 9.49 -4.47
1990 5.04 6.73 -1.69 2.56 26.98 -24.41 7.60 33.71 -26.10
2000 10.95 15.99 -5.03 8.63 67.11 -58.49 19.58 83.10 -63.52
2005 12.40 22.54 -10.14 5.01 80.07 -75.06 17.40 102.61 -85.20
2006 12.68 23.50 -10.82 4.89 82.97 -78.08 17.57 106.47 -88.90
2007 12.43 24.09 -11.66 4.32 84.85 -80.53 16.75 108.94 -92.19
2008 12.50 23.13 -10.63 4.45 82.46 -78.02 16.94 105.59 -88.65
2009 9.93 19.21 -9.28 4.19 72.06 -67.87 14.12 91.27 -77.15
2010 12.17 23.38 -11.21 4.69 81.94 -77.25 16.86 105.32 -88.45
2011 13.85 25.36 -11.51 5.24 88.58 -83.34 19.09 113.94 -94.85
2012 13.48 25.96 -12.48 5.61 87.96 -82.35 19.09 113.91 -94.83
2013 13.94 27.06 -13.12 5.86 91.03 -85.17 19.80 118.08 -98.29
2014 14.37 28.27 -13.90 6.11 93.16 -87.06 20.48 121.44 -100.96
Canadad
1980 0.31 1.31 -1.00 0.21 0.71 -0.50 0.52 2.02 -1.50
1990 0.69 2.33 -1.64 0.33 2.39 -2.06 1.01 4.71 -3.70
2000 2.20 4.13 -1.92 2.08 3.69 -1.61 4.28 7.82 -3.54
2005 2.46 4.30 -1.84 1.86 5.98 -4.12 4.32 10.28 -5.95
2006 2.37 4.36 -1.99 1.80 6.83 -5.03 4.17 11.19 -7.02
2007 2.32 4.42 -2.11 1.59 7.61 -6.03 3.90 12.04 -8.14
2008 1.99 4.32 -2.33 1.27 8.25 -6.98 3.26 12.57 -9.31
2009 1.64 3.56 -1.92 1.01 7.56 -6.55 2.65 11.12 -8.47
2010 1.91 4.15 -2.24 1.17 8.31 -7.14 3.08 12.46 -9.38
2011 2.02 4.50 -2.48 1.29 9.53 -8.24 3.31 14.03 -10.71
2012 2.02 4.58 -2.57 1.28 9.37 -8.09 3.30 13.96 -10.66
2013 1.90 4.56 -2.66 1.27 9.95 -8.68 3.17 14.51 -11.34
2014 1.83 4.58 -2.75 1.37 10.08 -8.70 3.20 14.66 -11.45
(continued)
Table 18 (continued): Trade in textiles and clothing for selected economies, 1980-2014
(US$ bn)
Textiles Clothing Textiles and clothing
Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance
Mexicocd
1980 0.09 0.13 -0.05 0.00 0.12 -0.12 0.09 0.26 -0.17
1990 0.71 0.99 -0.28 0.59 0.57 0.01 1.30 1.56 -0.27
2000 2.57 5.82 -3.25 8.63 3.60 5.03 11.20 9.42 1.78
2005 2.14 6.04 -3.90 7.31 2.52 4.78 9.44 8.57 0.88
2006 2.19 5.95 -3.76 6.32 2.52 3.81 8.52 8.47 0.05
2007 2.20 5.64 -3.43 5.12 2.46 2.66 7.33 8.10 -0.77
2008 1.99 5.37 -3.37 4.91 2.54 2.37 6.90 7.91 -1.01
2009 1.61 4.20 -2.59 4.11 2.11 2.00 5.72 6.31 -0.58
2010 1.93 5.15 -3.22 4.36 2.29 2.07 6.29 7.44 -1.15
2011 2.14 5.86 -3.72 4.64 2.74 1.89 6.78 8.60 -1.83
2012 2.24 6.00 -3.77 4.45 2.96 1.48 6.68 8.97 -2.28
2013 2.45 6.18 -3.73 4.53 3.23 1.30 6.98 9.41 -2.43
2014 2.55 6.41 -3.86 4.62 3.59 1.03 7.17 9.99 -2.83
Brazile
1980 0.65 0.08 0.58 0.14 0.01 0.13 0.79 0.09 0.71
1990 0.77 0.25 0.52 0.25 0.06 0.19 1.02 0.31 0.70
2000 0.90 1.04 -0.15 0.28 0.17 0.11 1.18 1.22 -0.04
2005 1.33 1.16 0.17 0.36 0.31 0.06 1.69 1.47 0.23
2006 1.36 1.60 -0.23 0.30 0.44 -0.14 1.67 2.04 -0.37
2007 1.44 2.18 -0.75 0.28 0.61 -0.33 1.72 2.80 -1.08
2008 1.36 2.95 -1.59 0.25 0.88 -0.63 1.61 3.83 -2.22
2009 0.95 2.58 -1.63 0.17 0.96 -0.79 1.13 3.55 -2.42
2010 1.09 3.77 -2.68 0.16 1.36 -1.20 1.25 5.13 -3.88
2011 1.11 4.30 -3.20 0.19 2.07 -1.87 1.30 6.37 -5.07
2012 1.00 4.30 -3.30 0.17 2.56 -2.39 1.16 6.86 -5.69
2013 0.95 4.22 -3.27 0.16 2.77 -2.61 1.11 7.00 -5.88
2014 0.88 4.38 -3.50 0.16 2.94 -2.78 1.04 7.32 -6.28
Australiad
1980 0.14 1.12 -0.97 0.03 0.33 -0.31 0.17 1.45 -1.28
1990 0.15 1.44 -1.29 0.10 0.71 -0.61 0.25 2.16 -1.90
2000 0.35 1.63 -1.29 0.20 1.86 -1.66 0.54 3.49 -2.95
2005 0.33 1.77 -1.44 0.21 3.12 -2.91 0.54 4.89 -4.35
2006 0.31 1.84 -1.53 0.18 3.28 -3.09 0.50 5.12 -4.62
2007 0.34 2.05 -1.71 0.20 3.70 -3.50 0.54 5.75 -5.21
2008 0.32 2.21 -1.89 0.21 4.28 -4.07 0.53 6.49 -5.96
2009 0.24 1.93 -1.69 0.18 4.06 -3.88 0.42 5.99 -5.56
2010 0.24 2.18 -1.94 0.22 4.83 -4.62 0.46 7.01 -6.56
2011 0.27 2.55 -2.28 0.26 5.84 -5.58 0.53 8.39 -7.86
2012 0.26 2.59 -2.33 0.26 6.08 -5.82 0.52 8.67 -8.15
2013 0.23 2.62 -2.39 0.23 6.26 -6.03 0.46 8.87 -8.42
2014 0.21 2.72 -2.50 0.22 6.52 -6.30 0.44 9.24 -8.81
Japan
1980 5.12 1.72 3.40 0.49 1.54 -1.05 5.61 3.26 2.35
1990 5.87 4.13 1.74 0.57 8.77 -8.20 6.44 12.90 -6.46
2000 6.99 4.93 2.06 0.53 19.70 -19.17 7.53 24.64 -17.11
2005 6.88 5.81 1.07 0.49 22.54 -22.05 7.37 28.35 -20.98
2006 6.93 6.18 0.76 0.48 23.83 -23.35 7.42 30.01 -22.59
2007 7.10 6.30 0.80 0.52 24.00 -23.47 7.62 30.29 -22.67
2008 7.34 6.92 0.41 0.59 25.79 -25.20 7.93 32.72 -24.79
2009 6.11 6.74 -0.63 0.48 25.55 -25.07 6.59 32.29 -25.70
2010 7.09 7.20 -0.11 0.53 26.87 -26.34 7.62 34.07 -26.45
2011 8.03 9.20 -1.16 0.60 32.94 -32.35 8.63 42.14 -33.51
2012 7.82 9.01 -1.19 0.56 33.94 -33.38 8.38 42.95 -34.58
2013 6.84 8.77 -1.92 0.49 33.63 -33.14 7.33 42.40 -35.07
2014 6.39 8.89 -2.50 0.62 31.16 -30.54 7.01 40.05 -33.04
(continued)
Table 18 (continued): Trade in textiles and clothing for selected economies, 1980-2014
(US$ bn)
Textiles Clothing Textiles and clothing
Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance
Chinac
1980 2.54 1.10 1.44 1.62 0.05 1.58 4.16 1.15 3.02
1990 7.22 5.29 1.93 9.67 0.05 9.62 16.89 5.34 11.55
2000 16.13 12.83 3.30 36.07 1.19 34.88 52.21 14.02 38.18
2005 41.05 15.50 25.55 74.16 1.63 72.53 115.21 17.13 98.08
2006 48.68 16.36 32.32 95.38 1.72 93.65 144.06 18.08 125.97
2007 56.03 16.64 39.39 115.52 1.98 113.54 171.55 18.62 152.93
2008 65.37 16.29 49.08 120.40 2.28 118.12 185.77 18.57 167.20
2009 59.82 14.94 44.88 107.26 1.84 105.42 167.09 16.79 150.30
2010 76.87 17.68 59.19 129.82 2.52 127.30 206.69 20.20 186.49
2011 94.41 18.90 75.51 153.77 4.01 149.76 248.18 22.91 225.27
2012 95.44 19.81 75.63 159.61 4.52 155.09 255.05 24.33 230.72
2013 106.57 21.56 85.00 177.41 5.34 172.08 283.98 26.90 257.08
2014 111.66 20.25 91.41 186.61 6.12 180.48 298.27 26.37 271.90
Hong Kong
1980 1.77 2.97 -1.20 4.98 0.70 4.28 6.75 3.66 3.08
1990 8.21 10.18 -1.97 15.41 6.91 8.49 23.62 17.10 6.52
2000 13.44 13.72 -0.27 24.21 16.01 8.21 37.66 29.72 7.93
2005 13.83 13.79 0.04 27.29 18.44 8.86 41.12 32.23 8.89
2006 13.91 13.97 -0.06 28.39 18.85 9.54 42.30 32.83 9.47
2007 13.42 13.56 -0.14 28.76 19.15 9.62 42.18 32.71 9.47
2008 12.26 12.31 -0.06 27.91 18.55 9.36 40.16 30.86 9.30
2009 9.98 9.96 0.01 22.83 15.51 7.32 32.80 25.47 7.33
2010 11.31 11.27 0.04 24.05 16.64 7.40 35.36 27.91 7.45
2011 11.28 11.05 0.23 24.50 17.25 7.26 35.79 28.30 7.49
2012 10.55 10.36 0.18 22.57 16.34 6.23 33.12 26.70 6.42
2013 10.71 10.41 0.30 21.92 16.45 5.47 32.64 26.86 5.78
2014 9.78 9.36 0.43 20.51 16.17 4.34 30.29 25.53 4.76
South Korea 0.006
1980 2.21 0.41 1.80 2.95 0.01 2.94 5.16 0.42 4.74
1990 6.08 1.95 4.13 7.88 0.15 7.73 13.95 2.10 11.86
2000 12.71 3.36 9.35 5.03 1.31 3.72 17.74 4.67 13.07
2005 10.39 3.54 6.85 2.58 2.91 -0.33 12.97 6.45 6.52
2006 10.11 3.91 6.20 2.18 3.74 -1.56 12.29 7.65 4.64
2007 10.37 4.14 6.23 1.91 4.32 -2.40 12.29 8.46 3.83
2008 10.37 4.11 6.26 1.74 4.22 -2.48 12.11 8.34 3.78
2009 9.16 3.54 5.62 1.40 3.38 -1.98 10.55 6.91 3.64
2010 10.97 4.83 6.13 1.61 4.44 -2.83 12.58 9.28 3.30
2011 12.37 5.66 6.71 1.84 6.11 -4.27 14.21 11.77 2.44
2012 11.97 4.88 7.09 1.91 6.27 -4.36 13.88 11.15 2.73
2013 12.04 5.22 6.83 2.10 7.54 -5.44 14.14 12.75 1.39
2014 11.91 5.37 6.54 2.25 8.47 -6.23 14.16 13.84 0.31
Taiwan
1980 1.77 0.29 1.48 2.43 0.01 2.42 4.20 0.29 3.91
1990 6.13 1.01 5.12 3.99 0.29 3.70 10.12 1.30 8.81
2000 11.89 1.46 10.43 3.02 0.98 2.04 14.91 2.44 12.47
2005 9.71 1.12 8.59 1.56 1.09 0.47 11.27 2.21 9.06
2006 9.78 1.14 8.64 1.41 1.22 0.19 11.19 2.36 8.83
2007 9.73 1.19 8.54 1.27 1.12 0.16 11.01 2.31 8.70
2008 9.25 1.18 8.07 1.19 1.18 0.02 10.45 2.36 8.09
2009 7.89 0.90 6.99 0.90 1.01 -0.11 8.80 1.91 6.88
2010 9.72 1.29 8.43 0.98 1.19 -0.21 10.70 2.47 8.23
2011 11.02 1.42 9.60 0.99 1.53 -0.54 12.01 2.95 9.06
2012 10.29 1.25 9.04 0.97 1.64 -0.67 11.26 2.89 8.37
2013 10.22 1.26 8.96 0.92 1.61 -0.69 11.14 2.86 8.27
2014 10.23 1.30 8.92 0.87 1.76 -0.89 11.10 3.06 8.03
(continued)
Table 18 (continued): Trade in textiles and clothing for selected economies, 1980-2014
(US$ bn)
Textiles Clothing Textiles and clothing
Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance
Vietnamb
1980 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a
1990 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a
2000 0.30 1.38 -1.08 1.82 0.45 1.37 2.12 1.83 0.29
2005 0.73 3.43 -2.71 4.68 0.33 4.35 5.41 3.77 1.64
2006 1.06 3.99 -2.93 5.58 0.27 5.31 6.64 4.26 2.38
2007 1.32 5.14 -3.82 7.40 0.27 7.13 8.72 5.41 3.31
2008 1.56 5.70 -4.14 8.72 0.35 8.37 10.29 6.06 4.23
2009 2.01 5.47 -3.46 8.54 0.33 8.21 10.55 5.80 4.75
2010 3.06 7.04 -3.98 10.39 0.45 9.94 13.45 7.49 5.96
2011 3.77 8.70 -4.93 13.15 0.53 12.62 16.92 9.23 7.69
2012 3.89 9.08 -5.18 14.44 0.62 13.82 18.34 9.69 8.64
2013 4.61 10.63 -6.02 17.15 0.72 16.43 21.76 11.35 10.41
2014 5.26 12.02 -6.76 19.54 0.81 18.73 24.80 12.83 11.97
Indonesia
1980 0.05 0.22 -0.17 0.10 0.00 0.10 0.14 0.22 -0.08
1990 1.24 0.79 0.46 1.65 0.02 1.63 2.89 0.80 2.09
2000 3.51 1.25 2.25 4.73 0.04 4.69 8.24 1.29 6.95
2005 3.35 0.76 2.60 4.96 0.07 4.89 8.31 0.83 7.48
2006 3.61 0.73 2.88 5.76 0.09 5.67 9.37 0.82 8.55
2007 3.83 0.79 3.04 5.87 0.14 5.73 9.70 0.92 8.78
2008 3.67 3.26 0.41 6.28 0.30 5.99 9.96 3.56 6.40
2009 3.21 2.80 0.41 5.92 0.27 5.65 9.12 3.07 6.05
2010 4.14 4.22 -0.07 6.82 0.37 6.45 10.96 4.58 6.38
2011 4.79 5.65 -0.86 8.05 0.42 7.63 12.84 6.07 6.77
2012 4.54 5.57 -1.03 7.52 0.48 7.04 12.06 6.05 6.01
2013 4.63 5.79 -1.16 7.69 0.57 7.12 12.32 6.36 5.97
2014 4.72 5.81 -1.09 7.67 0.54 7.13 12.39 6.35 6.04
Malaysiac
1980 0.18 0.30 -0.12 0.15 0.03 0.12 0.33 0.33 0.00
1990 0.34 0.95 -0.61 1.32 0.08 1.24 1.66 1.03 0.63
2000 1.27 1.11 0.16 2.26 0.15 2.11 3.53 1.26 2.26
2005 1.36 0.97 0.38 2.48 0.28 2.20 3.83 1.25 2.58
2006 1.44 1.06 0.37 2.84 0.36 2.48 4.28 1.42 2.86
2007 1.47 1.18 0.29 3.16 0.41 2.75 4.63 1.59 3.04
2008 1.55 1.12 0.43 3.62 0.49 3.13 5.17 1.61 3.56
2009 1.36 0.92 0.44 3.13 0.35 2.77 4.48 1.27 3.22
2010 1.67 1.19 0.48 3.88 0.41 3.47 5.55 1.60 3.95
2011 2.04 1.47 0.57 4.57 0.69 3.88 6.60 2.16 4.45
2012 1.79 1.37 0.42 4.56 0.86 3.70 6.35 2.22 4.12
2013 1.85 1.45 0.40 4.58 1.01 3.57 6.43 2.46 3.97
2014 1.90 1.48 0.42 4.77 1.07 3.70 6.66 2.54 4.12
India
1980 1.31 0.07 1.23 0.67 0.00 0.67 1.98 0.07 1.91
1990 2.18 0.24 1.94 2.53 0.00 2.53 4.71 0.24 4.47
2000 5.59 0.59 5.01 5.96 0.02 5.94 11.56 0.61 10.95
2005 8.33 1.93 6.40 8.74 0.06 8.68 17.07 1.99 15.08
2006 8.88 1.99 6.89 9.56 0.09 9.48 18.44 2.08 16.37
2007 9.62 2.14 7.48 9.93 0.13 9.80 19.55 2.27 17.28
2008 10.37 2.39 7.99 10.97 0.17 10.80 21.34 2.56 18.78
2009 9.11 2.26 6.85 12.00 0.16 11.85 21.12 2.42 18.70
2010 12.83 2.79 10.04 11.23 0.24 10.99 24.06 3.03 21.04
2011 15.34 3.39 11.95 14.67 0.36 14.31 30.01 3.76 26.26
2012 15.35 3.32 12.03 13.93 0.40 13.52 29.28 3.72 25.56
2013 17.42 3.58 13.84 15.54 0.52 15.02 32.96 4.10 28.86
2014 18.34 3.76 14.58 17.74 0.61 17.13 36.08 4.37 31.71
(continued)
Table 18 (continued): Trade in textiles and clothing for selected economies, 1980-2014
(US$ bn)
Textiles Clothing Textiles and clothing
Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance Exports Imports Balance
Bangladeshbf
1980 0.41 0.09 0.32 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.42 0.09 0.32
1990 0.34 0.45 -0.11 0.64 0.01 0.63 0.99 0.47 0.52
2000 0.39 1.35 -0.96 5.07 0.17 4.89 5.46 1.52 3.94
2005 0.71 2.43 -1.72 6.89 0.25 6.64 7.60 2.67 4.92
2006 1.49 1.74 -0.24 8.32 0.17 8.15 9.81 1.91 7.91
2007 0.88 2.31 -1.42 8.85 0.20 8.66 9.74 2.50 7.24
2008 1.09 3.02 -1.93 11.67 0.25 11.42 12.76 3.28 9.49
2009 0.89 2.84 -1.95 11.89 0.12 11.77 12.78 2.96 9.82
2010 1.26 4.47 -3.21 14.85 0.16 14.69 16.12 4.63 11.49
2011 1.90 6.61 -4.71 19.21 0.67 18.54 21.11 7.28 13.83
2012 1.63 5.48 -3.85 19.79 0.56 19.23 21.42 6.04 15.38
2013 2.26 5.95 -3.69 23.50 0.61 22.89 25.76 6.55 19.21
2014 2.36 6.78 -4.42 24.58 0.69 23.89 26.94 7.47 19.48
Pakistan
1980 0.88 0.20 0.67 0.10 0.00 2.14 3.60 3.91 3.81
1990 2.66 0.13 2.54 1.01 0.00 1.01 3.68 0.13 3.55
2000 4.53 0.13 4.40 2.14 0.00 2.14 6.68 0.13 6.54
2005 7.09 0.47 6.62 3.60 0.03 3.58 10.69 0.50 10.19
2006 7.47 0.55 6.92 3.91 0.03 3.88 11.38 0.58 10.79
2007 7.37 0.58 6.79 3.81 0.06 3.74 11.18 0.64 10.54
2008 7.19 0.59 6.60 3.91 0.06 3.85 11.09 0.65 10.44
2009 6.51 0.59 5.92 3.36 0.05 3.31 9.87 0.64 9.23
2010 7.85 0.95 6.90 3.93 0.07 3.86 11.78 1.02 10.76
2011 9.08 1.24 7.84 4.55 0.09 4.46 13.63 1.33 12.30
2012 8.70 1.08 7.63 4.21 0.07 4.14 12.92 1.15 11.77
2013 9.34 1.24 8.10 4.55 0.07 4.48 13.89 1.31 12.58
2014 9.08 1.55 7.53 4.99 0.09 4.90 14.07 1.63 12.44
Saudi Arabiab
1980 0.01 1.34 -1.32 0.01 0.67 -0.66 0.02 2.01 -1.99
1990 0.03 1.31 -1.28 0.02 0.83 -0.82 0.05 2.14 -2.10
2000 0.11 0.99 -0.87 0.01 0.81 -0.80 0.12 1.80 -1.68
2005 0.30 1.21 -0.91 0.05 1.46 -1.41 0.35 2.67 -2.32
2006 0.32 1.20 -0.89 0.06 1.65 -1.58 0.38 2.85 -2.47
2007 0.32 1.30 -0.97 0.07 1.94 -1.87 0.40 3.23 -2.84
2008 0.11 0.23 -0.12 0.03 0.66 -0.64 0.14 0.89 -0.75
2009 0.07 0.20 -0.13 0.03 0.59 -0.56 0.10 0.79 -0.69
2010 0.40 1.46 -1.07 0.11 2.24 -2.13 0.51 3.70 -3.20
2011 0.48 1.72 -1.24 0.11 2.87 -2.75 0.60 4.59 -3.99
2012 0.42 1.94 -1.52 0.14 3.02 -2.88 0.56 4.96 -4.40
2013 0.44 1.86 -1.43 0.08 3.20 -3.11 0.52 5.06 -4.54
2014 0.41 1.86 -1.44 0.08 3.19 -3.11 0.49 5.04 -4.55
World
1980 54.99 56.98 n/a 40.59 42.27 n/a 95.58 99.25 n/a
1990 104.35 107.84 n/a 108.13 112.24 n/a 212.48 220.08 n/a
2000 154.78 163.77 n/a 197.64 203.10 n/a 352.42 366.87 n/a
2005 202.97 214.76 n/a 278.91 279.41 n/a 481.88 494.17 n/a
2006 218.61 231.30 n/a 310.59 324.66 n/a 529.20 555.96 n/a
2007 238.81 252.68 n/a 348.32 364.10 n/a 587.13 616.77 n/a
2008 249.68 264.17 n/a 364.16 380.66 n/a 613.84 644.83 n/a
2009 211.08 223.34 n/a 317.30 331.67 n/a 528.38 555.01 n/a
2010 252.45 267.11 n/a 354.49 370.55 n/a 606.95 637.66 n/a
2011 294.21 311.30 n/a 419.21 438.19 n/a 713.42 749.49 n/a
2012 283.57 301.95 n/a 419.52 457.03 n/a 703.09 758.98 n/a
2013 304.09 324.50 n/a 459.66 502.61 n/a 763.75 827.12 n/a
2014 314.08 335.26 n/a 483.28 525.98 n/a 797.36 861.24 n/a
NB: numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding. a Includes intra-trade; intra-EU imports have been estimated; figures for
years prior to 2000 relate to EU15. b Includes WTO secretariat estimates. c Includes significant exports from and imports into
processing zones. d Imports are fob. e Imports are fob from 2000 onwards. f Figures relate to financial years.
Source: World Trade Organization (WTO).
World fibre demand increased by 3.7% in 2014, from 84.0 mn tons to a record high of 87.1 mn tons. The rise
represented the sixth in succession, following a sharp decline in 2008 which reflected the global economic
crisis. Man-made fibre production in 2014 grew by 4.8% to 61.6 mn tons. As a result, it accounted for 71%
of total fibre demand during the year, which represented a record high.
Within the man-made fibre sector, synthetic fibres continued to account for the bulk of production.
Furthermore, synthetic fibre production was up by 4.8% to 56.6 mn tons, which represented almost 92% of
total man-made fibre production. Polyester was the most important synthetic fibre type, having represented
87% of total production of synthetic fibres, followed by nylon with an 8% share and acrylic with a 3% share.
The remainder was made up of other synthetic fibres, including aramid, spandex (elastane), vinyl and vinyon.
Polyester staple fibre production rose by a marginal 0.1% to reach 15.3 mn tons, as increases in production
in India, Japan, Mexico, the Middle East, Africa and Oceania, South Korea, other Asia, and the USA were
largely offset by declines in China, Europe, Taiwan, Turkey and other Americas. In the case of polyester
filament yarn, production increased by 7.6% to 33.8 mn tons, due largely to a 9.1% rise in Chinese
production. In fact, China accounted for almost the entire increase in global production over the three years
to 2014 and, as a result, its share reached 78%. In the case of nylon staple fibre, global production fell by
7.4% and remained small at 151,900 tons. In the case of nylon filament yarn, on the other hand, global
production rose by 5.1% to 4.4 mn tons. Of this total, China accounted for almost 51%, although developed
nationsincluding the USA, Taiwan and those in Western Europecontinued to account for a large share
of the total. In the case of acrylic staple fibre, global production fell by 3.3% to 1.8 mn tons, reflecting
declines in production in China, Europe, Japan, Mexico, other Americas and Taiwan.
Global production of cellulosic fibre rose by 4.5% to 5.0 mn tons. Within this total, cellulosic staple fibre
production rose by 4.8% to 4.6 mn tons and accounted for 91% of the total. Also, more than two-thirds of the
cellulosic staple fibre produced globally was made in China. Other major producers included India,
Indonesia, Taiwan, Thailand and Western Europe. Cellulosic filament yarn production, meanwhile, rose by
1.0% but remained small at 435,900 tons.
Global man-made fibre capacity is set to grow by 1.9% between March 2015 and December 2016, from
81.3 mn tons to 82.9 mn tons. Much of the growth will be in the polyester sector, where capacity is forecast
to rise by 2.1% to 67.0 mn tons. Nylon filament yarn capacity is set to rise by 2.6%. But capacity for
producing acrylic staple fibre, nylon staple fibre, cellulosic staple fibre and cellulosic filament yarn will
remain static. As much as 80% of the increase in global man-made fibre capacity will occur in China and
India alone. However, capacity is also set to rise in Indonesia, Malaysia, Pakistan and Vietnam, and there
will also be some growth in Turkey and the USA.
INTRODUCTION
World fibre demand rose World fibre demand rose by 3.7% in 2014, from 84.0 mn tons to
by 3.7% in 2014 87.1 mn tons (Table 1).
The rise was due to a 4.8% The rise was due primarily to an increase in man-made fibre demand.
increase in man-made fibre Indeed, this was up by 4.8%, or 2.8 mn tons, to 61.6 mn tons.
demand and a 1.1% rise in
natural fibre demand Natural fibre demand also rose, but by a much lesser 1.1%, or
0.3 mn tons, to 25.4 mn tons.
As a result, the share of As a result, the share of man-made fibres in total fibre demand rose
man-made fibres in total from 70.0% to a record high of 70.8%.
fibre demand rose to a
record high but the share The share of natural fibres, by contrast, fell from 30.0% to just 29.2%.
of cotton fell to a record This represented the fourth consecutive decline. Within natural fibres,
low the share of cotton in total fibre demand also fell, for the fourth
consecutive year, to just 27.5%. This represented a record low.
The rise in synthetic fibre Within the total for synthetic fibre, the rise was due entirely to an
production was due entirely increase of 7.3%, or 2.7 mn tons, in production of filament yarn to
to an increase in filament 39.0 mn tons. Staple fibre production, by contrast, declined by 0.3%, or
yarn production 51,000 tons, to 17.6 mn tons.
Furthermore, filament Furthermore, filament yarn production grew much faster than staple
yarn production grew fibre production between 2010 and 2014. Indeed, filament yarn
much faster than staple production grew by 39.6% over the four-year period whereas staple
fibre production between fibre production increased by a slower 10.9%. As a result, the share of
2010 and 2014 filament yarn in total synthetic fibre production increased from 63.8%
to 68.9% while the share of staple fibre fell from 36.2% to just 31.1%.
In the case of cellulosic In the case of cellulosic fibres, staple fibre production increased
fibres, staple fibre pro- by 4.8% to 4.6 mn tons in 2014 alone and accounted for as much
duction increased by 4.8% as 91.3% of total cellulosic fibre production. Filament yarn
in 2014 and filament yarn production, meanwhile, rose by only 1.0% and remained small, at
production by only 1.0% just 435,900 tons.
Furthermore, over the four Furthermore, over the four years to 2014 staple fibre production shot up
years to 2014 filament yarn by 59.7% while filament yarn production grew by just 9.5%. As a result,
production grew by just the share of staple fibre in total cellulosic fibre production increased
9.5% while staple fibre from 87.8% to 91.4% while the share of filament yarn fell from 12.2%
production shot up by 59.7% to 8.7%.
Synthetic fibre production Synthetic fibre production increased by 4.8%, or 2.6 mn tons, to
increased by 4.8% to 56.6 mn tons in 2014 (Table 2). As a result, it represented 65.0% of
56.6 mn tons in 2014 global fibre production and as much as 91.8% of global man-made fibre
production.
Polyester filament yarn In terms of fibre type, the largest category was that of polyester filament
represented the largest yarn with a 59.8% share of total synthetic fibre production, which
category with a 59.8% amounted to 33.8 mn tons.
share, followed by
polyester staple fibre Next in importance was polyester staple fibre with a 27.0% share, which
with a 27.0% share amounted to 15.3 mn tons.
In total, polyester In total, polyester accounted for 86.8%, or 49.1 mn tons, of total
accounted for 86.8% synthetic fibre production.
The share held by polyester Furthermore, the share held by polyester rose in each of the three years
rose in each of the three to 2014, from 85.7% in 2011.
years to 2014, although the
rise was due entirely to The rise was due entirely to an increase in the share held by polyester
growth in the share of filament yarn, from 55.7% to 59.8%. The share held by polyester staple
polyester filament yarn fibre, on the other hand, fell from 30.0% to 27.0%.
Nylon filament yarn accoun- Nylon filament yarn accounted for 7.8%, or 4.4 mn tons, of total
ted for a 7.8% share, the synthetic fibre production in 2014. This share was more or less the same
same as three years earlier as in the previous year, as well as three years earlier.
Nylon staple fibre Nylon staple fibre, meanwhile, accounted for just 0.3%, or 151,900 tons
accounted for a share of of total synthetic fibre production. Furthermore, nylon staple fibre
just 0.3% in 2014, which production fell in 2014 following a rise in 2013 which was only
was down slightly from marginal and a decline in 2012. As a result, the share of nylon staple
0.4% in 2011 fibre in total synthetic fibre production dropped over the three-year
period, from 0.4% in 2011.
The share held by acrylic Acrylic staple fibre accounted for 3.3%, or 1.8 mn tons, of total
staple fibre fell for the third synthetic fibre production in 2014. However, this share was down for
consecutive year in 2014, the third consecutive year, from 4.2% in 2011, as acrylic staple fibre
from 4.2% in 2011 to 3.3% production fell by 7.1% over the three-year period.
The share of other Other synthetic fibreswhich include aramid, elastane (spandex), vinyl
synthetic fibres remained and vinyonaccounted for 1.9%, or 1.1 mn tons, of total synthetic fibre
fairly stable between 2011 production in 2014. This share remained fairly stable over the three
and 2014, at 1.9% years between 2011 and 2014.
Table 2: Synthetic fibre production by fibre type, 2011-14
(000 tons)
2011 2012 2013 2014
Polyester
staple fibre 14,220.3 15,038.4 15,281.2 15,291.5
filament yarn 26,375.5 29,126.1 31,453.2 33,848.7
total polyester 40,595.8 44,164.5 46,734.4 49,140.2
Nylon
staple fibre 168.7 163.8 164.0 151.9
filament yarn 3,705.5 3,901.5 4,188.0 4,400.3
total nylon 3,874.2 4,065.3 4,352.0 4,552.2
Acrylic staple fibre 1,990.0 1,937.1 1,913.0 1,849.1
Other synthetic fibresa
staple fibre 255.4 268.6 275.1 289.7
filament yarn 628.9 645.1 732.3 780.9
total other synthetic fibres 884.3 913.7 1,007.4 1,070.6
Synthetic fibres
Staple fibre 16,634.4 17,407.9 17,633.3 17,582.2
Filament yarn 30,709.9 33,672.7 36,373.5 39,029.9
Total synthetic fibres 47,344.3 51,080.6 54,006.8 56,612.1
a
Other synthetic fibres include aramid, spandex (elastane), vinyl and vinyon.
Source: Fiber Organon.
Growth between 2011 and The growth in production witnessed between 2011 and 2014 reflected
2014 reflected increases in increases in production in the majority of countries and regions.
production in most
countries and regions The main exceptions were Europe, Japan and Taiwan.
Production in China grew Production in China rose by 6.8%, or 589,000 tons, to 9.3 mn tons over
by 6.8% but the rise was the three-year period.
due mainly to an increase
in 2012 alone as production However, the rise was due mainly to a 7.9% increase in 2012 alone.
rose only marginally in Indeed, production grew by just 0.8% in 2013 and declined by 1.8% in
2013 and declined in 2014 2014.
As a result, Chinas share As a result, Chinas share of global production fell from 61.3% in 2011
fell to its lowest level for at to 60.8% in 2014, which represented its lowest level in at least four
least four years years.
In India and South Korea In India and South Korea rates of growth in production between 2011
growth was more moderate and 2014 were more moderate, at 8.9% and 5.6% respectively.
As a result, Indias share As a result, India accounted for 7.2% of global productionup slightly
rose slightly while South from 7.1% in 2011while South Korea accounted for a 4.1% share, the
Koreas remained the same same as in 2011.
But production in Japan Production declined, however, in Japan (down by 6.7%) and Taiwan
and Taiwan declined (down by 2.2%) and the shares of both countries fell. Japan accounted
and the shares of both for 1.0% of global production, down from 1.1% in 2011, while Taiwan
countries fell accounted for 3.6%, down from 3.9%.
Production was also up Production was also up sharply over the three-year period in the USA
sharply in the USA (by 12.7%). As a result, the USA accounted for 4.3% of global
production in 2014, up from 4.1% in 2011.
In Europe, however, In Europe, however, production declined by 2.1% over the three-year
production declined period. In Western Europe alone it was down by 3.6% while in Eastern
Europe it was more or less the same level as it had been in 2011
following an increase in 2012 and declines in 2013 and 2014.
Table 3: Polyester staple fibre production by country and region, 2011-14
(000 tons)
2011 2012 2013 2014
Western Europe 289.9 297.6 287.0 279.5
Eastern Europe 204.8 211.5 208.0 204.9
Turkey 208.4 221.8 240.0 237.4
USA 579.7 638.7 644.6 653.2
Mexico 47.4 49.7 55.4 67.5
Other Americas 167.2 190.8 202.3 191.0
Japan 157.1 151.5 142.8 146.6
China 8,713.3 9,398.0 9,470.4 9,302.2
South Korea 587.2 609.7 611.8 620.2
Taiwan 557.7 578.3 555.6 545.2
India 1,009.0 1,005.0 1,033.0 1,098.8
Other Asia 1,542.7 1,517.6 1,648.5 1,745.3
Middle East, Africa and Oceania 155.9 168.2 181.8 199.7
Total 14,220.3 15,038.4 15,281.2 15,291.5
Source: Fiber Organon.
Most of the growth between Almost all of the growth in production witnessed between 2011 and
2011 and 2014 was in China 2014 was in China.
Production in China grew Production in China grew by no less than 36.8%, or 7.1 mn tons, to
by 36.8% to 26.3 mn tons 26.3 mn tons over the three-year period, which represented 94.6% of
and, as a result, China was the entire global increase. As a result, China accounted for 77.7% of
one of only two countries or global production in 2014, up from 72.8% in 2011. In fact, China was
regions to post an increase one of only two countries or regionsthe other being the Middle East,
in its share of global Africa and Oceaniato post an increase in its share over the three-year
production period.
The other was the Middle Production in the Middle East, Africa and Oceaniawhich includes
East, Africa and Oceania as Australia, Egypt, Iran, Israel, Kenya, Nigeria, Morocco, Saudi Arabia,
production in the region South Africa and the United Arab Emirates (UAE)increased by
increased by 30.9% although 30.9% between 2011 and 2014. However, it remained negligible, having
it remained negligible accounted for just 0.5% of global production.
Strong growth was also Strong growth was also seen in the USA. Indeed, production in the
seen in the USA but the country increased by 25.0% over the three-year period. However, the
USAs share remained USAs share of global production in 2014, at 1.9%, remained
unchanged unchanged compared with 2011.
Elsewhere in the Elsewhere in the Americas, however, production declined between 2011
Americas, however, and 2014. In Mexico it was down by 8.4% due to a 13.7% drop in 2014
production declined alone. In other Americaswhich includes Argentina, Brazil, Colombia,
El Salvador, Ecuador, Peru and Hondurasproduction plunged by
21.3%.
Production also rose Elsewhere in Asia, production in other Asia rose by a sharp 11.0%
sharply in other Asia but between 2011 and 2014.
production in Japan,
South Korea and Taiwan However, production declined in Japan (by 25.0%), South Korea (by
declined 11.5%) and Taiwan (by 10.8%).
Production also declined Production also declined in Europe and Turkey. In Western Europe it
in Europe and Turkey was down by 15.4%, in Eastern Europe by 4.9% and in Turkey by
3.6%.
In China, production In China, production fell by 9.9% over the three-year period due to a
fell by 9.9% 13.7% plunge in 2014 alone.
The fall was in line with The 9.9% fall between 2011 and 2014 was in line with the decline in
the decline in global global production, at 10.0%.
production and, as a
result, Chinas share of As a result, Chinas share of global production in 2014, at 48.1%, was
global production in 2014 more or less the same as in 2011. However, it was down sharply from
was the same as in 2011 51.6% in 2013.
The only other major Elsewhere, the only other major nylon staple fibre producing countries
producing countries and and regions were the USA and Western Europe.
regions were the USA
and Western Europe Table 5: Nylon staple fibre production by country and region, 2011-14
(000 tons)
2011 2012 2013 2014
Western Europe 36.5 34.0 32.0 30.0
Eastern Europe 2.0 1.5 1.2 1.6
USA 33.1 30.8 32.2 33.0
Japan 2.0 2.0 1.7 1.3
China 81.1 81.8 84.7 73.1
South Korea 5.0 5.1 3.4 4.2
Taiwan 6.0 5.4 6.0 6.0
India 1.4 1.4 1.2 1.3
Other Asia 1.6 1.8 1.6 1.4
Total 168.7 163.8 164.0 151.9
Source: Fiber Organon.
Production in Western Production in Western Europe was down by a sharp 17.8%, although in
Europe fell by 17.8% and the USA the decline was confined to just 0.3%.
the regions share of global
production declined but As a result, Western Europes share of global production declined from
production in the USA fell 21.6% to 19.7% over the three-year period while the USAs share rose
by only 0.3% and the from 19.6% to 21.7%.
country gained share
Nylon filament yarn production
Nylon filament yarn Nylon filament yarn production rose by 5.1%, or 212,300 tons, to
production rose by 5.1% 4.4 mn tons in 2014 following increases of 7.3% in 2013 and 5.3% in
in 2014 2012 (Table 6).
due to a 10.6% increase The rise in 2014 was due entirely to an increase of 10.6%, or
in Chinese production 215,500 tons, in Chinese production.
Furthermore, China also Furthermore, the increase in Chinese production accounted for the whole
accounted for the whole of of the rise in global production between 2011 and 2014which was
the rise in global production 18.8%, or 694,800 tons. Indeed, production in China rose by 48.4%, or
between 2011 and 2014 730,300 tons, over the three-year period, from 1.5 mn tons to 2.2 mn tons.
As a result, Chinas share of As a result, Chinas share of global production increased from 40.8%
global production increased in 2011 to 50.9% in 2014. In fact, China was one of only two countries
from 40.8% in 2011 to or regionsthe other being other Asiato post an increase in its share
50.9% in 2014 over the three-year period.
Strong growth was also Strong growth was also seen in other Americas (up by 16.4%), the
seen in other Americas, the Middle East, Africa and Oceania (up by 13.8%) and Turkey (up by
Middle East, Africa and 10.9%). However, in all three cases, the shares of these countries and
Oceania, and Turkey regions in global production declined.
Table 6: Nylon filament yarn production by country and region, 2011-14
(000 tons)
2011 2012 2013 2014
Western Europe 294.2 261.6 253.2 251.5
Eastern Europe 146.1 141.9 140.4 145.3
Turkey 62.4 61.2 64.7 69.2
Canada 116.6 99.7 99.1 90.8
USA 559.3 530.8 564.8 571.0
Mexico 24.5 28.6 18.6 20.2
Other Americas 72.1 76.1 84.9 83.9
Japan 95.0 98.1 95.4 98.0
China 1,510.2 1,791.2 2,025.0 2,240.5
South Korea 148.6 138.9 128.1 114.9
Taiwan 362.1 369.8 378.8 358.1
India 100.5 76.2 90.9 101.2
Other Asia 148.5 160.2 172.2 181.3
Middle East, Africa and Oceania 65.4 67.2 71.9 74.4
Total 3,705.5 3,901.5 4,188.0 4,400.3
Source: Fiber Organon.
The strong growth in these The strong growth in production in China and, to a lesser extent,
developing countries and developing regionsincluding other Asia, other Americas, the Middle
regions was at the expense East, Africa and Oceania, and Turkeywas at the expense of
of production in developed production in the developed countries and regions, including North
countries and regions America, Europe, Japan, South Korea and Taiwan.
There were declines in The steepest decline in production over the three-year period was in
production over the three- South Korea (down by 22.7%), followed by Canada (down by 22.1%),
year period in South Korea, Mexico (down by 17.6%) and Western Europe (down by 14.5%).
Canada, Mexico, Western Declines were more moderate in Taiwan (down by 1.1%) and Eastern
Europe, Taiwan and Europe (down by 0.5%).
Eastern Europe, while pro-
duction rose only modestly By contrast, production rose in Japan and the USA but the increases, at
in Japan and the USA 3.2% and 2.1% respectively, were only modest.
Production in India edged Production in India, meanwhile, edged up by a mere 0.7% over the
up by only 0.7% over the three-year period. However, such slow growth was due to a sharp 24.2%
three-year period although decline in 2012 alone. In 2013 production was up by 19.3% and in 2014
it grew strongly in 2013 it rose by a further 11.3%.
and 2014 alone
Acrylic staple fibre production
Acrylic staple fibre Acrylic staple fibre production declined by 3.3%, or 63,900 tons, to
production fell in 2014 for 1.8 mn tons in 2014 following declines of 1.2% in 2013 and 2.7% in
the third consecutive year 2012. As a result, production fell by a total of 140,900 tons over the
three-year period to its lowest level in at least four years (Table 7).
The fall in production over The fall in production over the three-year period reflected declines
the three-year period in production in the majority of countries and regions. However, there
reflected declines in was growth in production in a number of developing countries and
production in the majority regions, including India, other Asia, and the Middle East, Africa and
of countries and regions Oceania.
Table 7: Acrylic staple fibre production by country and region, 2011-14
(000 tons)
2011 2012 2013 2014
Western Europe 286.8 280.2 237.6 203.4
Eastern Europe 75.6 68.6 64.0 49.6
Turkey 276.4 284.5 283.0 298.0
Mexico 51.1 53.6 52.3 45.1
Other Americas 64.8 63.2 47.8 35.0
Japan 151.6 140.0 147.3 140.8
China 706.7 691.4 694.3 680.4
South Korea 47.1 46.6 47.0 50.9
Taiwan 94.1 67.7 67.8 61.9
India 77.8 78.3 92.4 93.4
Other Asia 97.6 94.0 103.5 107.6
Middle East, Africa and Oceania 60.4 69.0 76.0 83.0
Total 1,990.0 1,937.1 1,913.0 1,849.1
Source: Fiber Organon.
Production rose in the The fastest growth in production was in the Middle East, Africa and
Middle East, Africa and Oceania (up by 37.4%), followed by India (up by 20.1%) and other
Oceania, India, other Asia, Asia (up by 10.2%). Production also increased in South Korea (up by
South Korea and Turkey 8.1%) and Turkey (up by 7.8%). Elsewhere, however, production
but it was down elsewhere declined.
Production was down The steepest decline in production was in other Americas (down by
sharply in other Americas, 46.0%), followed by Eastern Europe (down by 34.4%), Taiwan (down
Eastern Europe, Taiwan, by 34.2%), Western Europe (down by 29.1%) and Mexico (down by
Western Europe and 11.7%).
Mexico, although there
were more modest declines More modest declines were seen in Japan (down by 7.1%) and China
in Japan and China (down by 3.7%).
As a result, China As a result, China remained the worlds largest producer of acrylic
remained the worlds staple fibre in 2014 with a 36.8% share of global production, up from
largest producer and 35.5% in 2011. Meanwhile, Turkey became the second largest producer
Turkey became the second with a 16.1% share (up from 13.9%) and Western Europe fell one place
largest producer, ahead of to become the third largest producer with an 11.0% share (down from
Western Europe 14.4%).
Cellulosic fibre production Cellulosic fibre production rose by 4.5%, or 216,700 tons, to
rose by 4.5% to 5.0 mn tons 5.0 mn tons in 2014. However, the rise represented a sharp slowdown
in 2014 following increases of 12.4% in 2013, 17.6% in 2012 and 11.2% in
2011.
Staple fibre production Within the total for 2014, cellulosic staple fibre production grew by
grew by 4.8% and its share 4.8%. As a result, its share of total cellulosic fibre production rose to as
of the total rose to 91.3% much as 91.3%.
Filament yarn production Production of cellulosic filament yarn, meanwhile, rose by 1.0% but its
rose by 1.0% but its share share of total cellulosic fibre production fell. In fact, it fell each year
fell to just 8.7% between 2011 and 2014, from 11.6% to 8.7%.
Production in Taiwan Production in Taiwan rose by 52.6%, or 42,900 tons, to 124,500 tons
rose by 52.6% between 2011 and 2014.
As a result, Taiwan raised As a result, Taiwans share of global production increased from 2.5%
its share of the global total to 2.7% over the three-year period and the country climbed one place to
and became the worlds become the worlds fifth largest producer of cellulosic staple fibre,
fifth largest producer ahead of Thailand.
Production in Western Production in Western Europe was also up between 2011 and 2014.
Europe rose by only 0.6% However, the rise was minimal at just 0.6%, or 1,900 tons. Also, the rise
was due entirely to an increase in 2012 as production declined in 2013
and 2014. As a result, production in 2014, at 343,200 tons, remained
below the levels seen in 2012 and 2013.
As a result, Western Furthermore, Western Europes share of global cellulosic staple fibre
Europes share fell and the production fell from 10.6% to 7.5% over the three-year period and the
region slipped to become region slipped one place to become the worlds fourth largest
the fourth largest producer producer.
Production in Thailand Production in Thailand fell by 19.3%, or 27,000 tons, to 113,000 tons
fell by 19.3% between 2011 and 2014 despite a 41.3% jump in production in 2014
alone. The fall between 2011 and 2014 was due to a 46.7% plunge in
2013 alone.
and the countrys share As a result, Thailands share of global cellulosic staple fibre production
of global production fell fell from 4.4% in 2011 to 1.8% in 2013 before recovering somewhat to
from 4.8% to just 2.5% 2.5% in 2014.
Production in Japan Production in Japan, meanwhile, fell by 2.0%, or 800 tons, between
meanwhile, remained 2011 and 2014 and remained small at 38,600 tons.
small
Cellulosic filament yarn production
Cellulosic filament yarn Cellulosic filament yarn production increased by 1.0%, or 4,500 tons,
production rose by 1.0% to 435,900 tons in 2014 following a 2.1% increase in 2013 and a 0.3%
in 2014 following a 2.1% decline in 2012.
increase in 2013 and a
0.3% decline in 2012 As a result, production in 2014 was at its highest level in at least four
years (Table 9).
In China, production In China, production rose by 5.5%, or 13,000 tons, between 2011 and
rose by 5.5% between 2014 to 250,000 tons. The rise accounted for the entire increase in
2011 and 2014, and the global production.
rise accounted for the
entire increase in global As a result, Chinas share of global production rose from 56.0% to
production 57.4% over the three-year period.
Outside China, increases Elsewhere, increases in production in the majority of countries and
in the majority of regions were more or less offset by declines in production in Eastern
countries and regions Europe and the USA.
were offset by declines
in Eastern Europe and Table 9: Cellulosic filament yarn production by country and region, 2011-14
(000 tons)
the USA 2011 2012 2013 2014
Western Europe 58.0 54.9 59.6 59.4
Eastern Europe 25.3 23.4 17.7 18.2
USA 26.2 25.3 26.4 24.7
Argentina 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
Japan 22.5 22.2 23.2 24.2
China 237.0 239.3 247.0 250.0
India 52.5 55.3 55.5 57.4
Total 423.5 422.4 431.4 435.9
Source: Fiber Organon.
In India, production was In India, production was up by 9.3%, or 4,900 tons, between 2011 and
up by 9.3% and Indias 2014 to 57,400 tons. As a result, Indias share of global cellulosic
share rose to 13.2% filament yarn production rose from 12.4% to 13.2% over the three-year
period.
In Japan, production Production in Japan increased by 7.6%, or 1,700 tons, between 2011
increased by 7.6% and and 2014 to 24,200 tons. As a result, Japans share of global production
Japans share rose to 5.6% rose from 5.3% to 5.6% over the three-year period.
In Western Europe, Production in Western Europe rose by 2.4%, or 1,400 tons, between
production rose by 2.4% 2011 and 2014 to 59,400 tons. However, the rise was slower than
but the regions share of growth in global production. As a result, Western Europes share of
global production fell to global production fell slightly, from 13.7% to 13.6%, over the three-
13.6% year period.
In Eastern Europe, pro- Production in Eastern Europe, on the other hand, declined by a sharp
duction declined by a sharp 28.1%, or 7,100 tons, between 2011 and 2014 to 18,200 tons. As a
28.1% and the regions result, Eastern Europes share of global production fell from 6.0% to
share fell to just 4.2% just 4.2% over the three-year period.
In the USA, production Production in the USA declined by 5.7%, or 1,500 tons, between 2011
declined by 5.7% and the and 2014 to 24,700 tons. As a result, the USAs share of global
countrys share fell to 5.7% production fell from 6.2% to 5.7% over the three-year period.
Man-made fibre capacity will Global man-made fibre production capacity is set to increase by 1.9%
rise by 1.9% between March between March 2015 and December 2016, from 81.3 mn tons to
2015 and December 2016 82.9 mn tons (Table 10).
Filament yarn capacity will Within these totals, filament yarn capacity is set to grow by 2.0%, or
rise by 2.0% and staple 1.0 mn tons, to 50.8 mn tons while staple fibre capacity is forecast to
fibre capacity by 1.7% increase by 1.7%, or 0.5 mn tons, to 32.0 mn tons.
As a result, the shares of sta- As a result, the shares of staple fibre capacity and filament yarn capacity
ple fibre and filament yarn in total man-made fibre capacity will remain fairly stable, at 38.7% and
capacity will remain stable 61.3% respectively.
The increase in total capacity In terms of fibre type, the increase in total man-made fibre capacity will
will be due largely to a 2.0% be due largely to increases in polyester filament yarn capacity (up by
rise in polyester filament yarn 2.0%, or 854,000 tons, to 43.7 mn tons) and polyester staple fibre
capacity and a 2.3% rise in capacity (up by 2.3%, or 536,000 tons, to 23.3 mn tons).
polyester staple fibre capacity
although there will also be More moderate growth is predicted for nylon filament yarn capacity (up
increases in nylon filament by 2.6%, or 141,000 tons, to 5.6 mn tons), other synthetic filament yarn
yarn, other synthetic filament capacity (up by 1.2%, or 12,000 tons, to 1.0 mn tons) and other
yarn and other synthetic synthetic staple fibre capacity (up by 2.6%, or 10,000 tons, to
staple fibre capacities 394,000 tons).
But acrylic staple fibre, Acrylic staple fibre capacity, nylon staple fibre capacity,
nylon staple fibre and cellulosic staple fibre capacity and cellulosic filament yarn capacity,
cellulosic fibre capacities however, are set to remain static at 2.2 mn tons, 208,000 tons,
are set to remain static 5.9 mn tons and 529,000 tons respectively.
The 2.3% rise in polyester In the case of polyester staple fibre, the 2.3% rise in global capacity
staple fibre capacity will between March 2015 and December 2016 will be due mainly to
be due mainly to increases increases in China (up by 1.7%, or 270,000 tons, to 15.8 mn tons), India
in China, India and other (up by 8.0%, or 103,000 tons, to 1.4 mn tons) and other Asia (up by
Asia 4.6%, or 102,000 tons, to 2.3 mn tons) while smaller increases are
The 2.0% rise in The 2.0% rise in polyester filament yarn capacity between March
polyester filament yarn 2015 and December 2016 will be due primarily to an increase in India
capacity will be due to an (up by 16.4%, or 535,000 tons, to 3.8 mn tons), as well as increases in
increase in India as well China (up by 0.4%, or 125,000 tons, to 33.7 mn tons), the USA (up by
as increases in China, the 12.2%, or 95,700 tons, to 880,900 tons) and other Asia (up by 4.4%, or
USA and other Asia and 90,000 tons, to 2.1 mn tons) while a smaller increase is expected in
a smaller increase in Turkey. However, capacity in South Korea is set to decline. Elsewhere,
Turkey but capacity in capacities will remain static.
South Korea is set to
decline Table 10: Man-made fibre production capacity by fibre type, March 2015 and
December 2016
(000 tons)
March 2015 December 2016
Synthetic fibres
Polyester
staple fibre 22,800.8 23,336.6
filament yarn 42,837.4 43,691.1
total polyester 65,638.2 67,027.7
Nylon
staple fibre 207.8 207.8
filament yarn 5,473.2 5,614.2
total nylon 5,681.0 5,822.0
Acrylic staple fibre 2,235.6 2,235.6
Other synthetic fibresa
staple fibre 384.0 394.0
filament yarn 996.4 1,008.4
total other synthetic fibres 1,380.4 1,402.4
Staple fibre 25,628.2 26,174.0
Filament yarn 49,307.0 50,313.7
Total synthetic fibres 74,935.2 76,487.7
Cellulosic fibres
Staple fibre 5,864.0 5,864.0
Filament yarn 528.8 528.8
Total Cellulosic fibres 6,392.8 6,392.8
Man-made fibres
Staple fibre 31,492.2 32,038.0
Filament yarn 49,835.8 50,842.5
Total man-made fibres 81,328.0 82,880.5
a
Other synthetic fibres include aramid, spandex (elastane), vinyl and vinyon.
Source: Fiber Organon.
No changes in nylon Global nylon staple fibre capacity is set to remain unchanged between
staple fibre capacity March 2015 and December 2016, at 207,800 tons, and no changes in
are expected in any capacity are expected in any country or region. As a result, China will
country or region continue to have the largest capacity (103,000 tons), followed by
Western Europe (45,000 tons) and the USA (35,000 tons).
In nylon filament yarn, the In the case of nylon filament yarn, the 2.6% rise in global capacity
2.6% rise in global capacity between March 2015 and December 2016 will be due entirely to an
will be due entirely to an increase in China (up by 6.9%, or 192,000 tons, to 3.0 mn tons)
increase in China although there will also be small increases in other Asia and Turkey.
Capacity is expected to By contrast, capacity is expected to fall sharply in the Middle East,
fall in the Middle East, Africa and Oceania (by 39.1% to 56,000 tons) and Canada (by 22.1%
Africa and Oceania, to 74,000 tons) while a smaller fall is expected in South Korea.
Canada, and South Korea Elsewhere, capacities will remain static.
No changes in acrylic Global acrylic staple fibre capacity is set to remain unchanged between
staple fibre capacity are March 2015 and December 2016, at 2.2 mn tons, and no changes in
expected in any country capacity are expected in any country or region. As a result, China will
or region continue to have the largest capacity (800,000 tons), followed by
Turkey (310,000 tons), Western Europe (260,000 tons) and Japan
(205,000 tons).
Also, no changes in Global cellulosic staple fibre capacity is also set to remain unchanged
cellulosic staple fibre between March 2015 and December 2016, at 5.9 mn tons, and no
capacity are expected in changes in capacity are expected in any country or region. As a result,
any country or region China will continue to have the largest capacity (3.6 mn tons), followed
by Indonesia (640,000 tons), India (598,000 tons) and Western Europe
(428,000 tons).
and nor are any Global cellulosic filament yarn capacity is, again, set to remain
changes in cellulosic unchanged between March 2015 and December 2016, at 528,800 tons,
filament yarn capacity and no changes in capacity are expected in any country or region. As a
expected in any country result, China will continue to have the largest capacity (300,000 tons),
or region followed by India (77,600 tons) and Western Europe (70,000 tons).
OUTLOOK
Man-made fibre Man-made fibre production will continue to migrate in the coming years
production will continue from Western economies towards textile and clothing production
to migrate in the coming centres in Asian countriesparticularly China and Indiaas fibre
years from Western producers set up operations in locations which are closer to their
economies to textile and customers in the textile and clothing industry.
clothing production
centres in Asia, Also, the industries in these countries will become more vertically
particularly China and integrated in order to:
India, as the industries
in these countries take full advantage of free trade agreements;
become more vertically have better control of their supply chains;
integrated increase their speed to market;
cut down on transportation costs; and
add value to their products by becoming full package manufacturers.
China will raise its In China alone, man-made fibre production capacity is set to increase by
capacity by 1.1% 1.1%, or 607,000 tons, to 58.1 mn tons between March 2015 and
between March 2015 December 2016.
and December 2016 and
account for 70.1% of As a result, the country will account for 70.1% of global capacity at the
global capacity at the end of this periodalthough this will be down slightly from 70.7% at
end of this period the beginning.
Indian capacity will Indian capacity will grow by 11.7% between March 2015 and December
grow by 11.7% 2016, reaching 6.1 mn tons. This will represent an increase in absolute
terms of 638,000 tons over the 21-month period.
Together, India and China As a result, India and China together will account for 80% of the global
will account for 80% of the increase in man-made fibre capacity over this period.
global rise in capacity and
will control 77% of global Furthermore, they will control over 77% of global capacity in December
capacity in December 2016 2016.
Having said that, Having said that, production capacity in developed economies is set to
production capacity is set remain more or less stable as fibre demand by the textile industries in
to remain stable in these countries holds up.
Western economies, and
will increase in certain In fact, small increases in capacity are forecast for Turkey and the USA
regions as clothing as clothing retailers in the major import markets look at buying more
retailers in the major time-sensitive fashion items from production centres closer to home in
import markets look at order to speed up times to market and reduce inventory levels.
buying more time-
sensitive fashion items Having said that, small declines in capacity are forecast for Canada and
from production centres Eastern Europe, as well as South Korea, and the Middle East, Africa
closer to home and Oceania.
2014 was a mixed year for the international fabric machinery market. There were increases in shipments
of electronic flatbed knitting machinery and double jersey circular knitting machinery but there were
declines in shipments of shuttleless weaving machinery, single jersey circular knitting machinery, and
hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery.
In the weaving sector, shipments of shuttleless looms fell by 14% following declines of 4% in 2013 and
44% in 2012. However, the decline in 2012 came after a 44% increase in 2011 and a hike of 146% in
2010. As a result, shipments in 2014 were still at their sixth highest level on record. However, they were
lower than their annual average over the ten years to 2014. The fall in 2014 was due entirely to a 40%
decline in shipments to the textile industry in China.
In the circular knitting sector, shipments of single jersey machinery plummeted by 57% to their lowest
level since 2003. The fall was due primarily to a 71% plunge in shipments to the textile industry in China,
although there were also declines in shipments to as many as eight of the industries which constituted
the ten largest markets during the year. By contrast, shipments of double jersey machinery rose by 32%
following increases of 2% in 2013 and 24% in 2012. As a result, they reached their highest level on
record. Furthermore, increases were recorded in shipments to all of the industries which constituted the
15 largest markets in 2014.
In the flat knitting sector, shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery were
down by 37% to their lowest level on record as the industries in Bangladesh and China cut back on
investment. By contrast, shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery were up by 31% to their
fourth highest level on record, although they remained below the levels seen during 2010-12. The rise
in 2014 occurred despite a 7% decline in shipments to the textile industry in China and reflected strong
growth in shipments to the textile industries in a number of other countries, including Bangladesh,
Cambodia, India, Kenya, Madagascar, Mexico, Myanmar, Singapore and Vietnam.
GENERAL TRENDS
2014 was a mixed year for 2014 was a mixed year for the international fabric machinery market,
the international fabric according to data supplied by the International Textile Manufacturers
machinery market Federation (ITMF)1.
1
ITMFs survey data cover most of the worlds shipments of textile machinery, based on data supplied by some
120 manufacturers of spinning, draw texturing, weaving and knitting machinery. These manufacturers represent
almost all of the worlds output.
There were increases in There were increases in shipments of electronic flatbed knitting
shipments of electronic flatbed machinery and double jersey circular knitting machinery and, in both
knitting machinery and double cases, shipments were above their respective annual averages over the
jersey circular knitting ten years to 2014.
machinery but shipments of
shuttleless weaving machinery, However, there were declines in shipments of shuttleless weaving
single jersey circular knitting machinery, single jersey circular knitting machinery, and hand knitting
machinery, and hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery. Furthermore, in all three
and semi-automatic flat cases, shipments in 2014 were below their respective annual averages
knitting machinery declined over the ten years to 2014.
In the weaving sector, ship- In the weaving sector, shipments of shuttleless looms fell by 14% in
ments of shuttleless looms 2014 following declines of 4% in 2013 and 44% in 2012. However, the
fell for the third consecutive decline in 2012 came after a 44% increase in 2011 and a hike of 146%
year, by 14%, but were still in 2010. As a result, shipments in 2014 were still at their sixth highest
at their sixth highest level level on record.
In the circular knitting In the circular knitting sector, shipments of single jersey machinery
sector, shipments of single plummeted by 57% in 2014 from their second highest level on record
jersey machinery plummeted to their lowest level since 2003.
by 57% to their lowest level
since 2003 but shipments of By contrast, shipments of double jersey machinery rose by 32% in 2014
double jersey machinery rose following increases of 2% in 2013 and 24% in 2012. As a result, they
by 32% to a record high reached a record high.
In the flat knitting sector, In the flat knitting sector, shipments of electronic flatbed knitting
shipments of electronic machinery increased by 31% in 2014 to their fourth highest level on
flatbed knitting machinery record.
increased by 31% but
remained below the levels However, shipments remained below the levels seen during 2010-12 as
seen during 2010-12 the increase followed declines of 24% in 2013 and 34% in 2012.
Shipments of hand knitting Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery,
and semi-automatic flat meanwhile, fell by 37% in 2014 following declines of 35% in 2013 and
knitting machinery, 25% in 2012. The fall in 2012 came after a 19% increase in 2011 but
meanwhile, fell for the this followed declines of 37% in 2010, 19% in 2009 and 21% in
sixth time in seven years to 2008. As a result, shipments in 2014 were at their lowest level on
their lowest level on record record.
The trend of investment in These developments seem to represent a continuation of the trends
advanced technology which were apparent in the previous two yearswhen textile industries
continued from the invested in advanced technology at the expense of more conventional
previous two years machinery in order to improve productivity and reduce production costs.
In terms of individual In terms of individual countries, the 14% fall in global shipments of
countries, shipments to shuttleless looms in 2014 was due entirely to a double digit decline in
the textile industry in shipments to the textile industry in Chinaby far the worlds largest
China fell in the case of market for such machinery.
shuttleless looms
single jersey circular Furthermore, shipments to the industry in China also fell at double digit
knitting machinery, hand rates in the case of single jersey circular knitting machinery, and hand
knitting and semi- knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery. Shipments of
automatic flat knitting electronic flatbed knitting machinery were also down.
machinery, and electronic
flatbed knitting There was an increase, however, in shipments of double jersey circular
machinery knitting machinery to the textile industry in China.
Elsewhere, there were The drop in shipments of fabric machinery to the industry in China
increases in shipments to coincided with increases in shipments of fabric machinery to several
several other major textile other major textile industries. These developments are in line with
industries, in line with predic- predictions that textile and clothing production will shift from China to
tions of a shift in production countries throughout South Asia and South-East Asia, as well as
from China to other countries countries in closer proximity to the major clothing import markets.
Shipments to the textile Shipments to the textile industry in Vietnam, for example, rose in 2014
industry in Vietnam, for in the case of all five types of machinery analysed in this report
example, rose in the case of namely shuttleless looms, single jersey circular knitting machinery,
all five types of machinery double jersey circular knitting machinery, hand knitting and semi-
analysed in this report automatic flat knitting machinery, and electronic flatbed knitting
machinery. Furthermore, shipments of shuttleless looms, single jersey
circular knitting machinery, double jersey circular knitting machinery
and electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile industry in
Vietnam were up substantially.
while shipments to the Shipments to the textile industry in Italy, meanwhile, were up in the
textile industry in Italy case of four types of machinerynamely shuttleless looms, single
were up in the case of four jersey circular knitting machinery, double jersey circular knitting
types of machinery machinery and electronic flatbed knitting machinery.
Elsewhere, there were Elsewhere, there were increases in 2014 in shipments of shuttleless
increases in shipments of looms, double jersey circular knitting machinery and electronic flatbed
three types of machinery knitting machinery to the textile industries in Bangladesh, India,
to the textile industries in Pakistan and the Philippines. Also, there were increases in shipments of
Bangladesh, Colombia, double jersey circular knitting machinery, electronic flatbed knitting
India, Pakistan, the machinery, and hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting
Philippines and Singapore machinery to the textile industry in Singapore, and increases in
shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery, double jersey
circular knitting machinery and electronic flatbed knitting machinery to
the textile industry in Colombia.
In 2015 it is estimated that Trends in shipments in 2015 are likely to have remained mixed. It is
shipments to the textile estimated that shipments to the textile industries in South Asian and
industry in China declined South-East Asian countries rose and that shipments to the textile
but those to the industries industry in China declined further, in line with expectations of a shift in
elsewhere in Asia rose, production from China to other countries.
reflecting predictions of a
shift in production to other Also, shipments to the textile industries in the Americas, Europe and
countries Africa are expected to have remained fairly buoyant.
Demand for the more techno- In the face of increasing production costs and pressures to improve
logically advanced machines environmental sustainability, there is a need for manufacturers to
should remain strong as there achieve greater productivity and invest in equipment which uses less
is a need for manufacturers energy2.
to increase productivity and
invest in equipment which This need should help to ensure that demand for the more
uses less energy technologically advanced machines remains strong.
In addition, business may In addition, business may have picked up towards the end of 2015 in
have picked up towards the run up to, during and following ITMA 2015. The latter took place
the end of 2015 in view of over an eight-day period during November 12-19, 2015, in Milan,
the staging of ITMA 2015 Italy3.
WEAVING
Global shipments of In weaving, shipments of shuttleless looms to the worlds textile
shuttleless looms fell for industries fell by 14.1% to 71,667 machines in 2014 following declines
the third consecutive of 3.5% in 2013 and 43.8% in 2012.
year in 2014, by 14.1%,
but they were still at However, the decline in 2012 came after a 43.7% increase in 2011 and
their sixth highest level a jump of 146.4% in 2010. As a result, shipments in 2014 were still at
on record their sixth highest level on record.
The fall was due entirely to a The fall in 2014 was due entirely to a sharp decline in shipments to the
sharp decline in shipments to textile industry in China. These were down by 39.7%, or 21,779
the textile industry in China machines, to 33,049 machines.
Having said that, there Having said that, there were also sharp declines in shipments to the
were also sharp declines in textile industries in several other countries, including those in Brazil
shipments to the textile (down by 47.0%), Portugal (down by 39.0%), Egypt (down by 27.7%),
industries in several other South Korea (down by 24.9%), Indonesia (down by 23.1%) and Turkey
countries (down by 22.8%).
On the other hand, there On the other hand, there was strong growth in shipments to the textile
was strong growth in industries in a number of other countries, including Algeria (up by
shipments to the textile 1,518.2%), the Philippines (up by 328.6%), Djibouti (up by 241.1%),
industries in a number of Russia (up by 177.1%), Vietnam (up by 142.9%), Mexico (up by
other countries 141.7%), Romania (up by 131.6%), Iran (up by 112.0%), the Czech
Republic (up by 92.4%) and Bangladesh (up by 92.1%).
Regionally, the textile Regionally, the textile industries in Asia took as much as 89.8% of
industries in Asia took global shipments, although this share was down from 91.6% in the
89.8% of global shipments previous year as shipments to these industries declined by 15.8%.
2
See also Editorial: Textile machinery at ITMA 2015mastering the art of sustainable innovation, Textile
Outlook International, No 177, December 2015.
3
ITMA (International Exhibition of Textile Machinery) is a textile machinery exhibition which is held every
four years in a European city. The exhibition is owned by Le Comit Europen des Constructeurs de Machines
Textiles (CEMATEXEuropean Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers), an international organisation
based in Newcastle, UK, which comprises nine national European textile machinery associations.
Elsewhere, the textile Elsewhere, the textile industry in other Europe (which comprises only
industry in other Europe Turkey, according to ITMF definitions) took 3.2% of global shipments.
took 3.2% of global Next in importance were the industries in Western Europe (with a 2.0%
shipments and the share), followed by those in Africa (with a 1.9% share), Eastern Europe
industries in Western (with a 1.4% share), North America (with a 0.9% share) and South
Europe took 2.0% America (with a 0.7% share).
Among individual Among individual countries, the textile industry in China represented
countries, the textile the largest market, having taken 46.1% of global shipments in 2014.
industry in China However, this share was down markedly from 65.7% a year earlier as
represented the largest shipments to the industry plunged by 39.7%.
market, followed by the
industries in India, The second largest market was the textile industry in India with a 22.6%
Bangladesh, Indonesia share of global shipments (up from 12.1% in 2013), followed by the
and Turkey industry in Bangladesh with a 7.5% share (up from 3.4% in 2013), the
industry in Indonesia with a 3.3% share (down from 3.7% in 2013) and
the industry in Turkey with a 3.2% share (down from 3.6% in 2013).
KNITTING
Circular knitting
The market for circular The market for circular knitting machinery can be divided into two
knitting machinery can segments:
be divided into two
segments single jersey circular knitting machinery; and
double jersey circular knitting machinery.
Global shipments of single Global shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery
jersey circular knitting plummeted by 56.7% to 9,697 machines in 2014 following a 1.3%
machinery plummeted by decline a year earlier.
56.7% in 2014 to their
lowest level since 2003 As a result, shipments in 2014 were down to their lowest level since
2003, having fallen from a record high in 2012.
The fall was due largely to The fall in shipments in 2014 was due largely to a 70.7% plunge in the
a plunge in shipments to number of machines shipped to the textile industry in China.
the textile industry in
China, although there were However, there were also sharp declines in shipments to the textile
also sharp declines in industries in several other countriesincluding Mexico (down by
shipments to the industries 57.1%), Peru (down by 54.7%), Myanmar (down by 54.1%), Argentina
in several other countries (down by 53.8%), Thailand (down by 50.9%), the Philippines (down by
50.0%), Singapore (also down by 50.0%), Taiwan (down by 45.5%),
Uzbekistan (down by 43.4%), Indonesia (down by 39.6%), Iran (down
by 37.8%), Brazil (down by 36.3%), Turkey (down by 32.6%), South
Korea (down by 30.9%), Russia (down by 23.3%) and Bangladesh
(down by 20.8%).
On the other hand, there On the other hand, there were increases in shipments to the textile
were increases in industries in a number of other countries, including the United Arab
shipments to the textile Emirates (UAE) (up by 2,600.0%), Ethiopia (up by 1,000.0%), Germany
industries in a number (up by 450.0%), Mauritius (up by 183.3%), Japan (up by 160.0%),
of other countries South Africa (up by 88.9%), Portugal (up by 82.1%), Vietnam (up by
Regionally, the textile Regionally, the textile industries in Asia took as much as 84.5% of
industries in Asia took global shipments, although this share was down from 91.8% in the
84.5% of global shipments previous year as shipments to the industries were down by a sharp
60.1%.
The industry in other Europe Elsewhere, the textile industry in other Europe (Turkey) took 5.7% of
took 5.7% of global ship- global shipments. Next in importance were the textile industries in
ments, the industries in South South America (with a 3.4% share), followed by those in Africa (with
America took 3.4% and the a 2.8% share), Western Europe (with a 2.0% share), Eastern Europe
industries in Africa took 2.8% (with a 1.0% share) and North America (with a 0.7% share).
Among individual Among individual countries, the textile industry in China was the
countries, the textile largest market, having taken 50.5% of global shipments, although this
industry in China was the share was down sharply from 74.7% a year earlier as shipments to the
largest market with a industry plunged by 70.7%.
50.5% share, followed by
the industries in India, The second largest market was the textile industry in India with a 10.3%
Turkey, Bangladesh and share of global shipments (up from 4.6% in 2013), followed by the
Vietnam industry in Turkey with a 5.7% share (up from 3.7% in 2013), the
industry in Bangladesh with a 5.4% share (up from 2.9% in 2013) and
the industry in Vietnam with a 4.4% share (up from 1.1% in 2013).
Global shipments of double Global shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery rose
jersey circular knitting by 32.4% to 18,805 machines in 2014 following increases of 1.6% in
machinery rose by 32.4% 2013 and 23.8% in 2012. In fact, the rise in 2014 represented the fifth
to a record high in 2014 in six years. As a result, shipments reached a record high.
The rise reflected sharp The rise in global shipments in 2014 reflected sharp increases in
increases in shipments to shipments to the textile industries in a number of countries, including
the textile industries in a the United Arab Emirates (UAE) (up by 9,600.0%), Honduras (up by
number of countries 1,400.0%), Tanzania (up by 740.0%), Hong Kong (up by 510.5%),
Sri Lanka (up by 400.0%), Spain (up by 327.3%), the Philippines (up by
250.0%), Japan (up by 246.7%), Vietnam (up by 235.1%), Italy (up by
195.5%), Pakistan (up by 179.5%), Uzbekistan (up by 174.1%), India
(up by 155.3%), Colombia (up by 116.7%), Germany (up by 110.5%)
and Singapore (up by 100.0%).
Furthermore, there were falls Furthermore, among the textile industries which constituted the worlds
in shipments to the textile 35 largest markets in 2014, there were falls in shipments to the textile
industries in only three industries in only three countries, namely Thailand (down by 18.4%),
countries among the top 35 Peru (down by 17.9%) and Mexico (down by 8.3%).
Regionally, the textile Regionally, shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to
industries in Asia took the textile industries in Asia rose by 30.5% in 2014. However, the rise
89.6% of global shipments was slower than the increase in global shipments. As a result, the share
of global shipments which went to these industries fell slightly from
90.9% to 89.6%.
The textile industry in other Elsewhere, the textile industry in other Europe (Turkey) took 4.1% of
Europe took 4.1% of global global shipments. Next in importance were the industries in Western
shipments, and the indus- Europe (with a 1.7% share), followed by those in Africa (also with a
tries in Western Europe and 1.7% share), South America (with a 1.5% share), North America (with
Africa each took 1.7% a 1.0% share) and Eastern Europe (with a 0.5% share).
Among individual Among individual countries, the textile industry in China was the
countries, the textile largest market, having taken 64.1% of global shipments in 2014.
industry in China was the However, this share was down from 75.6% a year earlier. The drop in
largest market with a share occurred despite a 12.3% increase in shipments to the industry.
64.1% share, followed by
the industries in India, The second largest market was the textile industry in India with a 7.8%
Turkey, Vietnam and share of global shipments (up from 4.0% in 2013), followed by the
Indonesia industry in Turkey with a 4.1% share (down from 4.7% in 2013), the
industry in Vietnam with a 3.0% share (up from 1.2% in 2013) and the
industry in Indonesia with a 2.5% share (up from 2.2% in 2013).
Flat knitting
The market for flat The market for flat knitting machinery can be divided into two
knitting machinery can be segments:
divided into two segments
electronic flatbed knitting machinery; and
hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery.
The rise in global The rise in global shipments in 2014 reflected sharp increases in
shipments in 2014 shipments to the textile industries in a number of countries, including
reflected sharp Singapore (up by 5,566.7%), Colombia (up by 3,650.0%), Myanmar (up
increases in shipments by 2,466.7%), Madagascar (up by 1,970.0%), Iran (up by 1,800.0%),
to the textile industries Ethiopia (up by 1,380.0%), Kenya (up by 1,100.0%), Mexico (up by
in a number of 945.5%), North Korea (up by 886.7%), Chile (up by 877.8%), Romania
countries (up by 622.2%), Pakistan (up by 466.7%), Belgium (up by 416.7%),
Vietnam (up by 373.6%), India (up by 342.3%), Kazakhstan (up by
252.2%), Peru (up by 192.9%), Bangladesh (up by 185.5%), Brazil (up
by 180.2%), Russia (up by 165.9%) and Cambodia (up by 163.3%).
Furthermore, there were Furthermore, among the textile industries which constituted the worlds
declines in shipments to the 35 largest markets in 2014, there were declines in shipments to the
textile industries in only seven textile industries in only seven countries, namely Sri Lanka (down by
countries among those which 77.3%), Hong Kong (down by 53.5%), Turkey (down by 32.7%), South
constituted the worlds 35 Korea (down by 31.1%), Japan (down by 30.9%), the UK (down by
largest markets in 2014 14.9%) and China (down by 6.8%).
Regionally, the textile Regionally, shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the
industries in Asia took textile industries in Asia rose by 30.2% in 2014. However, the rise was
85.6% of global shipments slower than the increase in global shipments. As a result, the share of
global shipments which went to these industries fell slightly from 86.1%
to 85.6%.
The textile industry in Elsewhere, the textile industry in other Europe (Turkey) took 4.1% of
other Europe took 4.1% global shipments. Next in importance were the industries in Western
of global shipments, and Europe (with a 3.5% share), followed by those in Eastern Europe (with
the industries in Western a 2.4% share), Africa (with a 1.9% share), South America (with a 1.6%
Europe took 3.5% share) and North America (with a 0.9% share).
Among individual Among individual countries, the textile industry in China was the
countries, the textile largest market, having taken 42.1% of global shipments, although this
industry in China was the share was down sharply from 59.1% a year earlier as shipments to the
largest market with a industry declined by 6.8%.
42.1% share, followed by
the industries in The second largest market was the textile industry in Bangladesh with
Bangladesh, Vietnam, a 24.5% share of global shipments (up from 11.3% in 2013), followed
Turkey and India by the industry in Vietnam with a 4.2% share (up from 1.2% in 2013),
the industry in Turkey with a 4.1% share (down from 7.9% in 2013) and
the industry in India with a 4.0% share (up from 1.2% in 2013).
Global shipments of hand Global shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting
knitting and semi- machinery fell by 37.2% to 18,346 machines in 2014 following
automatic flat knitting declines of 35.2% in 2013 and 25.2% in 2012. In fact, the fall in 2014
machinery fell by 37.2% to represented the sixth double digit decline in seven years. As a result,
a record low in 2014 shipments in 2014 were at a record low for the third consecutive year.
The fall was due primarily The fall in 2014 was due primarily to declines in shipments to the textile
to declines in shipments to industries in Bangladesh (down by 54.8%) and China (down by 10.4%).
the textile industries in
Bangladesh and China However, there were some sharp declines in shipments to the textile
although there were some industries in other countries, including Malaysia (down by 90.7%),
sharp declines in South Korea (down by 83.6%), Nepal (down by 66.7%), Uzbekistan
shipments to the (down by 63.0%), Indonesia (down by 61.4%), Kazakhstan (down by
industries in other 59.1%), Thailand (down by 42.8%), Cambodia (down by 41.1%) and
countries Pakistan (down by 40.6%).
On the other hand, there On the other hand, there were sharp increases in shipments to the textile
were sharp increases in industries in a number of countries in 2014, including Singapore (up by
shipments to the textile 470.0%), Myanmar (up by 167.2%) and Iran (up by 145.0%). In
industries in a number of addition, shipments were made to the textile industries in a number of
countries other countries in 2014 after no shipments had been made to these
industries in 2013.
Regionally, all shipments Regionally, all shipments in 2014 went to the textile industries in
in 2014 went to the textile Asia as the industries in all other regions cut their investments in
industries in Asia favour of the more technologically advanced electronic flatbed
machinery.
Among individual Among individual countries, the textile industry in China was the
countries, the textile largest market, having taken 54.5% of global shipments in 2014.
industry in China was the Furthermore, this share was up from 38.2% a year earlier.
largest market with a
54.5% share, followed by The second largest market was the textile industry in Bangladesh with
the industries in a 26.8% share of global shipments (down from 37.3% in 2013),
Bangladesh, India, followed by the industry in India with a 5.3% share (up from 3.5% in
Vietnam and Cambodia 2013), the industry in Vietnam with a 3.0% share (up from 1.9% in
2013) and the industry in Cambodia with a 2.8% share (down from
3.0% in 2013).
WEAVING MACHINERY
SHUTTLELESS LOOMS
In weaving, there has been In the weaving sector, there has been a definite shift towards the
a shift in favour of the faster and more productive shuttleless looms in recent decades. In
faster and more productive shuttleless loom weaving, weft is inserted using such technologies as
shuttleless looms air jets, water jets, rigid or flexible rapiers, or projectiles. Shuttleless
looms have dominated weaving machinery shipments since the early
1990s.
In 2014 shipments fell by In 2014 shipments of shuttleless looms to the worlds mills fell by
14.1% but were still at their 14.1% to 71,667 machines but they were still at their sixth highest level
sixth highest level on record on record.
The fall was due The fall was due primarily to a decline in shipments of water-jet looms.
primarily to a 30.0% Indeed, shipments of this category of loom were down by 30.0% to
decline in shipments of 24,220 machines during the year. The fall followed a 13.4% decline in
water-jet looms to their 2013 and a 64.7% plunge in 2012 but the latter came after increases of
lowest level since 2009, 54.0% in 2011 and a surge of 536.9% in 2010.
although they were still
at their fifth highest level As a result, shipments in 2014 were at their lowest level since 2009 but
on record they were still at their fifth highest level on record, having remained
above the levels seen prior to 2009.
However, water-jet Having said that, the share of water-jet looms in total shipments of
looms ceased to be the shuttleless looms fell from 41.5% in 2013 to 33.8% in 2014.
most popular category of
shuttleless loom As a result, water-jet looms ceased to be the most popular category of
shuttleless loom.
Increases in global The increases in global shipments of water-jet looms in 2010 and 2011
shipments of water-jet and the declines during 2012-14 were due almost entirely to trends in
looms in 2010 and 2011 shipments to the textile industry in China. Indeed, between 2009 and
and declines during 2011 shipments to this industry increased by 990.3%, or 96,237
2012-14 were due almost machines, to 105,955 machines and the increase in absolute terms
entirely to trends in accounted for 94.9% of the total increase in global shipments to all
shipments to the textile destinations. Between 2011 and 2014, however, shipments to the
industry in China industry plunged by 85.2%, or 90,317 machines, to 15,638 machines
and the plunge in absolute terms accounted for the entire decline in
global shipments to all destinations.
Water-jet looms are Water-jet looms are employed in weaving fabric made from synthetic
employed in weaving filament yarnspartly as a replacement for silkwhereas rapier looms,
fabric made from projectile looms and air-jet looms are preferred for weaving fabric made
synthetic filament yarns from natural fibre yarns.
Global shipments of air- Global shipments of air-jet looms fell by 19.3% to 20,176 machines in
jet looms fell by 19.3% 2014. The fall represented the first decline in five years, having
in 2014 to their lowest followed increases of 7.4% in 2013, 8.4% in 2012, 21.6% in 2011 and
level since 2010 110.6% in 2010. However, shipments in 2014 were at their lowest level
since 2010.
Furthermore, this Furthermore, the share of air-jet looms in total shipments of shuttleless
category of machine looms fell from 30.0% to 28.2% between 2013 and 2014, and this
became the least category of machine became the least popular. Prior to 2014, shipments
popular of air-jet looms had exceeded shipments of rapier and projectile looms
for four consecutive years.
Global shipments of Global shipments of rapier and projectile looms rose by 14.4% to
rapier and projectile 27,271 machines in 2014 following increases of 2.5% in 2013, 20.3%
looms rose in 2014 for the in 2012 and 21.0% in 2011.
fourth consecutive year to
their highest level since As a result, shipments in 2014 were at their highest level since 2006,
2006 although they were below the levels seen during 2002-04.
Furthermore, they Furthermore, rapier and projectile looms constituted the most popular
constituted the most category of shuttleless loom in terms of investments in 2014 after
popular category of constituting the least popular category of shuttleless loom in the
shuttleless loom previous four years.
Prior to 2014 their popularity Indeed, prior to 2014, the popularity of rapier and projectile looms had
had been falling, reflecting the been falling. This reflects the contraction of the textile industries in
contraction of the textile ind- Europewhich have tended to favour these types of machinesand the
ustries in Europe and growth growth of the textile industries in Asia, where air-jet and water-jet
of the industries in Asia looms have tended to be more favoured (Table 1).
Rapier and projectile looms In fact, rapier and projectile looms continued in 2014 to account for the
accounted for the lions share lions share of shipments to the textile industries in Africa, Western
of shipments to the industries Europe, Eastern Europe and other Europe (which comprises only
in Africa and Europe in 2014 Turkey, according to ITMF definitions).
Table 1: Breakdown of shuttleless weaving machinery shipments by type and region, 2014
These types of machine The continued preference of rapier and projectile looms in Europe is
are capable of producing partly due to the fact that these types of machine are capable of
smaller batches more producing smaller batches more efficiently than other types of
efficiently than other shuttleless looms. Air-jet machines have relatively high weft insertion
types of shuttleless rates and set-up times are longer, which makes them better suited to
looms producing longer runs.
and they are capable of Also, rapier looms are capable of making fabrics which are more
making more complicated complex, such as home textiles, terry fabrics, technical fabrics and
fabrics complicated apparel fabrics, whereas air-jet looms tend be to used
for making basic fabrics such as apparel cloth and base cloth for
printing.
Furthermore, shipments were Furthermore, shipments to the textile industries in Asia in 2014 were
below their annual average lower than the annual average of 72,257 machines which were shipped
over the ten years to 2014 to the industries in the region over the ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industry in other Europe
industry in other Europe (Turkey)the worlds second largest regional marketdeclined by
declined by 22.8% and the 22.8% to 2,323 machines in 2014.
share of global shipments
which went to the industry As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry fell
fell from 3.6% to 3.2% from 3.6% to 3.2%.
However, the decline However, the decline in shipments to the industry in 2014 followed
followed hikes in each of hikes of 17.0% in 2013, 36.8% in 2012, 175.0% in 2011 and 288.6% in
the previous four years 2010 and, as a result, shipments in 2014 were higher than the levels
and, as a result, shipments seen during 2007-11.
to the industry in 2014
were well above their Moreover, shipments in 2014 were well above the annual average of
annual average over the 1,847 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years
ten years to 2014 to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industries in Western
industries in Western Europe rose by 16.1% to 1,456 machines in 2014 following a 65.4%
Europe rose by 16.1% in jump in the previous year. As a result, the share of global shipments
2014 and were in line with which went to the industries increased from 1.5% to 2.0% and the
their annual average over industries continued to constitute the worlds third largest regional
the ten years to 2014 market.
Also, shipments in 2014 were in line with the annual average of 1,451
machines which were shipped to the industries over the ten years to
2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industries in Africa shot
industries in Africa shot up up by 76.3% to 1,342 machines in 2014 following a 37.1% increase in
by 76.3% in 2014 following the previous year. As a result, the share of global shipments which went
a 37.1% increase in 2013 to these industries rose from 0.9% to 1.9% and the industries constituted
and, as a result, they were the fourth largest regional market after ranking fifth in 2013.
more than double their
annual average over the Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were more than double the annual
ten years to 2014 average of 640 machines which were shipped to the industries over the
ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industries in Eastern
industries in Eastern Europe rose by 58.0% to 992 in 2014. As a result, the share of global
Europe rose by 58.0% in shipments which went to these industries increased from 0.8% to 1.4%
2014 and were more or and the industries constituted the fifth largest regional market after
less double their annual ranking sixth in the previous year.
average over the ten years
to 2014 Furthermore, the rise in shipments to the industries in 2014 represented
the fourth double digit increase in five years and, as a result, shipments
in 2014 were more or less double the annual average of 498 machines
which were shipped to the industries over the ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industries in North
industries in North America surged by 99.4% to 676 in 2014. As a result, the share of
America surged by 99.4% global shipments which went to these industries increased from 0.4% to
in 2014 and were well 0.9% and the industries constituted the sixth largest regional market
above their annual after ranking seventh in the previous year.
average over the ten years
to 2014 Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were well above the annual average of
393 machines which were shipped to the industries over the ten years
to 2014.
Table 2: Shipments of shuttleless looms by region and leading countries of destination, 2013 and 2014
Figure 1
Shipments of shuttleless looms, 1996-2014
('000 looms)
140
120
100
Asia and Oceania
80
60
40
North America Other Europe (Turkey)
20
Western Europe
0
1996 1998 2000 2002 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014
1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 2013
Source: ITMF
Shipments to the textile Shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industries in South
industries in South America declined by 49.3% to 528 machines in 2014. As a result, the
America declined by share of global shipments which went to these industries fell from 1.2%
49.3% in 2014 and were to 0.7% and the industries constituted the smallest regional market after
well below their annual ranking fourth in the previous year.
average over the ten years
to 2014 Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were well below the annual average of
799 machines which were shipped to the industries over the ten years
to 2014.
Also, the industrys share As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry fell
of global shipments fell from 65.7% to 46.1% during the year.
and shipments to the
industry in 2014 were well Furthermore, shipments to the industry in 2014 were at their lowest
below their annual average level since 2009, and were well below the annual average of
over the ten years to 2014 53,948 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years
to 2014.
The fall in shipments of The fall in shipments of shuttleless looms to the Chinese textile industry
shuttleless looms to the in 2014 was due to declines in shipments of water-jet looms, air-jet
Chinese textile industry in looms, and rapier and projectile looms.
2014 was due to
a 48.9% plunge in The steepest decline was a 48.9% plunge in shipments of water-jet
shipments of water-jet looms, to 15,638 machines. The plunge followed declines of 11.1% in
looms 2013 and 67.5% in 2012 but the latter came after a 52.0% increase in
2011 and a surge of 617.1% in 2010. As a result, shipments in
2014while lower than the levels seen during 2010-13were higher
than the levels seen during 2005-09. Also, they accounted for as much
as 47.3% of total shuttleless loom shipments to the industry in 2014.
and a 24.2% fall in Meanwhile, shipments of rapier and projectile looms fell by 24.2%
shipments of rapier and to 5,994 machines in 2014. This represented their lowest level since
projectile looms 1999.
Shipments of shuttleless Shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industry in India shot up
looms to the textile by 61.2% to 16,207 machines in 2014. The rise represented the fourth
industry in India rose at a double digit increase in five years, having followed a 1.4% decline in
double digit rate in 2014 2013 and hikes of 12.0% in 2012, 69.0% in 2011 and 55.6% in 2010. As
for the fourth time in five a result, shipments reached a record high in 2014.
years and, as a result, they
reached a record high Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
in India increased from 12.1% in 2013 to 22.6% in 2014 and the
industry remained the second largest national market.
Also, they were more than Moreover, shipments in 2014 were more than double the annual average
double their annual average of 7,225 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years
over the ten years to 2014 to 2014.
Rapier and projectile The most popular category of shuttleless loom in terms of investments
looms remained the most in India in 2014 was again that of rapier and projectile looms. Indeed,
popular category of this category accounted for 49.6% of total shipments to the industrya
shuttleless loom in terms of proportion which was similar to that encountered in the previous
investments in 2014 year.
Water-jet looms became However, the share of water-jet looms in total shipments shot up from
the second most popular as 13.5% to 33.8% as shipments of this category of machinery to the
shipments of this category industry surged by 303.7%.
surged by 303.7% while
shipments of air-jet looms By contrast, the share of air-jet looms in total shipments fell from 35.0%
declined by 23.9% to just 16.5% as shipments of this category of machinery declined by
23.9%.
Moreover, shipments were Moreover, shipments in 2014 were well above the annual average of
above their annual average 3,703 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years
over the ten years to 2014 to 2014.
The rise in shipments of The rise in shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industry in
shuttleless looms in 2014 Bangladesh in 2014 was due to a 122.0% increase in shipments of rapier
was due to an increase in and projectile looms, to 4,945 machines. By contrast, shipments of
shipments of rapier and air-jet looms declined by 20.9% to 465 machines. In the case of water-
projectile looms jet looms, no machines were shipped to the industry in 2014 after only
one machine had been shipped in the previous year.
Shipments of shuttleless Shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industry in Indonesia fell
looms to the textile industry by 23.1% to 2,388 machines in 2014 following a 16.7% decline in 2013.
in Indonesia fell by 23.1% As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry fell
in 2014 following a 16.7% from 3.7% in 2013 to 3.3% in 2014 and the industry slipped one place
decline in 2013 but the latter to become the fourth largest national market.
followed eight consecutive
years of growth and, as a However, the decline in shipments in 2013 came after eight consecutive
result, shipments in 2014 years of growth. As a result, shipments in 2014while below the
were above the levels seen levels seen during 2010-13were above the levels seen during
during 1996-2009 1996-2009.
Also, they were above their In addition, shipments to the industry in 2014 were above the annual
annual average over the average of 2,040 looms which were shipped to the industry over the ten
ten years to 2014 years to 2014.
The fall in shipments of The fall in shipments of shuttleless looms to the Indonesian textile
shuttleless looms to the industry in 2014 was due primarily to a 46.2% plunge in shipments of
industry in 2014 was due to rapier and projectile looms, to 1,099 machines.
declines in shipments of
rapier and projectile looms Shipments of water-jet looms were also down, by 47.6% to 265
and water-jet looms machines.
as shipments of air-jet Shipments of air-jet looms, on the other hand, were up by 83.5% to
looms increased 1,024 machines.
However, the decline However, the decline in shipments to the industry in 2014 followed
followed hikes in each of hikes of 17.0% in 2013, 36.8% in 2012, 175.0% in 2011 and 288.6% in
the previous four years 2010 and, as a result, shipments in 2014 were above the levels seen
and, as a result, shipments during 2007-11.
in 2014 were well above
their annual average over Moreover, shipments in 2014 were well above the annual average of
the ten years to 2014 1,847 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years
to 2014.
The fall in shipments of The fall in shipments of shuttleless looms to the Turkish textile industry
shuttleless looms to the in 2014 was due primarily to a 22.8% decline in shipments of rapier and
industry in 2014 was due to projectile looms, to 1,929 machines.
declines in shipments of
rapier and projectile looms Shipments of air-jet looms were also down, by a sharp 45.8% to 161
and air-jet looms machines.
as shipments of water-jet Shipments of water-jet looms, on the other hand, increased by 9.4% to
looms increased 233 machines.
Shipments of shuttleless Shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industry in Vietnam soared
looms to the textile by 142.9% to a record high of 1,977 machines in 2014. As a result, the
industry in Vietnam soared share of global shipments which went to the industry rose from 1.0% to
by 142.9% to a record high 2.8% and the industry climbed two places to become the sixth largest
in 2014 and were more national market.
than double their annual
average over the ten years Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were more than double the annual
to 2014 average of 902 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
ten years to 2014.
Within the total for 2014, Within the total for 2014, shipments rose in the case of all three main
shipments rose in the case categories of shuttleless loom. Shipments of rapier and projectile looms
of all three main categories were up by 119.2% to 1,245 machines, shipments of air-jet looms shot
of shuttleless loom up by 253.7% to 520 machines and shipments of water-jet looms rose
by 114.1% to 212 machines.
The increase in shipments The increase in shipments of shuttleless looms to the Pakistani textile
of shuttleless looms to the industry in 2014 was due primarily to a 64.9% rise in shipments of air-
industry in 2014 was due jet looms, to 1,275 machines.
to rises in shipments of
air-jet looms and water- Shipments of water-jet looms were also up, by a sharp 255.8% to 306
jet looms machines.
as shipments of rapier and Shipments of rapier and projectile looms, on the other hand, declined by
projectile looms declined 69.4% to 45 machines.
Shipments of shuttleless Shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industry in South Korea
looms to the textile industry fell by 24.9% to 969 machines in 2014.
in South Korea fell by 24.9%
in 2014 and the industry As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
slipped two places to become declined from 1.5% to 1.4% and the industry slipped two places to
the eighth largest market become the eighth largest national market.
However, shipments were The fall in shipments in 2014 came after declines of 4.2% in 2013 and
well above their annual 45.2% in 2012 but the latter had followed surges of 139.1% in 2011 and
average over the ten years 178.9% in 2010. As a result, shipments in 2014 were still well above the
to 2014 annual average of 881 machines which were shipped to the industry
over the ten years to 2014.
The fall in shipments in The fall in shipments in 2014 was due to declines in shipments of all
2014 was due to declines in three main categories of shuttleless loom. Shipments of water-jet looms
shipments of all three main declined by 31.3% to 663 machines and shipments of air-jet looms were
categories of shuttleless down by 10.7% to 159 machines. Shipments of rapier and projectile
loom looms, meanwhile, edged down by 0.7% to 147 machines.
Shipments of shuttleless Shipments of shuttleless looms to the textile industry in Italy rose by
looms to the textile 13.3% to 630 machines in 2014. As a result, the share of global
industry in Italy rose by shipments which went to the industry rose from 0.7% to 0.9% and Italy
13.3% in 2014 climbed one place to become the ninth largest national market.
This represented the fourth The rise in shipments in 2014 represented the fourth increase in five
rise in five years although years but this came after sharp declines for three consecutive years.
shipments were below their As a result, shipments in 2014 were below the annual average of
annual average over the 716 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years to
ten years to 2014 2014.
The rise in shipments in The rise in shipments to the Italian textile industry in 2014 was due to
2014 was due to increases increases in shipments of rapier and projectile looms and air-jet looms.
in shipments of rapier Shipments of rapier and projectile looms were up 15.5% to 476 machines
and projectile looms and while shipments of air-jet looms were up by 6.9% to 154 machines. No
air-jet looms water-jet looms were shipped to the industry in 2014, as in 2013.
The increase in shipments The increase in shipments of shuttleless looms to the industry in 2014
of shuttleless looms to the was due primarily to a 128.4% jump in shipments of water-jet looms, to
industry in 2014 was due to 338 machines.
rises in shipments of
water-jet looms and rapier Shipments of rapier and projectile looms were also up, by 59.2% to 164
and projectile looms machines.
as shipments of air-jet Shipments of air-jet looms, on the other hand, were down by 48.5% to
looms declined 68 machines.
4
Data for capacities relate to the position on January 1 in the year indicated.
Table 3: Installed capacity of shuttleless loomsa by region and leading countries, 2013 and 2014
Table 4: Cumulative shipments of shuttleless and shuttle looms by region and leading countries of destination, 2005-14
Over the ten years to 2014, Over the ten years to 2014 (Table 4), the largest national market for
the largest national market shuttleless looms was the textile industry in China with a 69.3% share
for shuttleless looms was of global shipments during that time. The industry in India was a distant
the textile industry in second with a 9.3% share.
China with a 69.3% share
of global shipments, The third largest national market was the industry in Bangladesh (with
followed by the industries a 4.8% share), followed by the industries in Indonesia (with a 2.6%
in India, Bangladesh, share), Turkey (with a 2.4% share), Pakistan (with a 1.6% share),
Indonesia, Turkey, Vietnam (with a 1.2% share), South Korea (with a 1.1% share), Italy
Pakistan, Vietnam, South (with a 0.9% share) and Brazil (with a 0.8% share).
Korea, Italy and Brazil
Figure 2
Cumulative weaving machinery shipments,
selected countries, 2005-14
China
India
Bangladesh
Indonesia
Turkey
Pakistan
Vietnam
South Korea
Italy
Brazil
Taiwan
Japan
Thailand
Egypt
Germany
USA
Shuttleless looms Shuttle looms
Syria
In this report, circular In this report, circular knitting machinery is divided into two
knitting machinery is categories:
divided into single jersey
machinery and double single jersey machinery; and
jersey machinery double jersey machinery.
Single jersey machines are Single jersey machines are equipped with a single cylinder of needles
used to produce plain and are used to produce plain single thickness fabrics.
single thickness fabrics
while double jersey Double jersey machines are single jersey machines with a dial which
machines have an extra set houses an extra set of needles positioned horizontally adjacent to the
of needles and can make vertical cylinder needles. The extra set of needles facilitates
double, thicker fabrics the production of double, thicker fabrics.
Each category is further Each category is further divided into two size ranges, namely:
divided into two size
ranges machines with diameters of up to 24" (61 cm); and
machines with diameters of 26" (66 cm) or more.
Larger machines are used In general, circular knitting machines with diameters of 26" or more are
for producing made-up used for the production of made-up garments.
garments while smaller
ones are used to make Machines with diameters of 24" or less, on the other hand, are body
seamless garments size machines which are used for making seamless garments.
Single jersey machines Single jersey machines accounted for 34.0% of global shipments of
accounted for 34.0% of circular knitting machinery in 2014 (Table 5). This share was down
global shipments in 2014 sharply compared with 61.2% in the previous year as shipments of this
while double jersey type of machinery plunged by 56.7%.
machines accounted for
66.0% By contrast, shipments of double jersey machines rose by 32.4% and
their share of global shipments of all circular knitting machinery
increased from 38.8% to 66.0%.
Table 5: Breakdown of circular knitting machinery shipments by type and region, 2014
Single Double
Up to 24" 26" or over Up to 24" 26" or over Total Jacquard
Destination No % share No % share No % share No % share No % share electronicsa
Asiab 2,054 8.2 6,138 24.5 244 1.0 16,603 66.3 25,039 100.0 179
Other Europec 73 5.5 481 36.3 43 3.2 728 54.9 1,325 100.0 211
South America 20 3.3 310 51.3 2 0.3 272 45.0 604 100.0 20
Africa 43 7.4 227 39.0 6 1.0 306 52.6 582 100.0 10
Western Europe 21 4.1 171 33.4 8 1.6 312 60.9 512 100.0 96
North America 3 1.2 62 24.6 24 9.5 163 64.7 252 100.0 36
Eastern Europe 4 2.1 90 47.9 4 2.1 90 47.9 188 100.0 37
Not specified 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 0 0.0 0
World 2,218 7.8 7,479 26.2 331 1.2 18,474 64.8 28,502 100.0 589
NB: calculations are based on unrounded data; numbers may not sum precisely due to rounding.
a
Amount of total which include Jacquard electronics. b Includes Oceania. c Turkey.
Source: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF).
Within the overall total, Within the overall total for 2014, larger machinesthose with
larger machines made up diameters of 26" or overmade up a commanding 91.1% of global
91.1% of global shipments shipments. Furthermore, this share was up from 87.5% in the previous
and smaller machines the year.
remaining 8.9%
Meanwhile, smaller machinesthose with diameters of 24" or
lessaccounted for 8.9% of global shipments in 2014, down from
12.5% in the previous year.
Shipments of smaller Shipments declined in the case of larger machines and smaller
machines fell at a much machines. However, shipments of smaller machines fell at a much
steeper rate than shipments steeper rate (down by 44.4%) than shipments of larger machines (down
of larger machines by 18.9%).
In the case of smaller In the case of smaller machines, the fall in shipments was due to
machines, there were falls declines in shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery (down
in shipments of single jersey by 19.7%) and shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery
machines and double jersey (down by 81.8%).
machines, but in the case of
larger machines the fall was In the case of larger machines, the fall in shipments was due entirely to
due entirely to a plunge in a 61.9% plunge in shipments of single jersey circular knitting
shipments of single jersey machinery. By contrast, shipments of double jersey circular knitting
machines as shipments of machinery shot up by 49.2%. As a result, the latter reached a record
double jersey machines shot high for the third consecutive year and accounted for as much as 64.8%
up and reached a record of total shipments of circular knitting machinery.
high
SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINERY
Global shipments of single Global shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery plunged
jersey circular knitting by 56.7%, or 12,675 machines, to 9,697 machines in 2014 (Table 6).
machinery plunged by
56.7% in 2014 to their The plunge followed a 1.3% decline in the previous year and, as a
lowest level since 2003 result, shipments fell in 2014 to their lowest level since 2003 despite
having reached a record high in 2012.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in other Europe industry in other Europe (Turkey) fell by 32.6%, or 268 machines, to
fell by 32.6% in 2014 and 554 machines in 2014 following a 15.3% decline in the previous year.
were below their annual
average over the ten years As a result, shipments in 2014 were below the annual average of
to 2014 689 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years to
2014.
But the industry remained Nevertheless, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
the second largest regional increased from 3.7% in 2013 to 5.7% in 2014 and the industry remained
market the second largest regional market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industries in South America industries in South America declined by 36.0%, or 186 machines, to
fell in 2014 for the third 330 machines in 2014, following declines of 6.5% in 2013 and 12.8%
consecutive year in 2012.
As a result, they were at As a result, shipments were down in 2014 to their lowest level since
their lowest level since 2004 2004 and were well below the annual average of 644 machines which
were shipped to the industries over the ten years to 2014.
However, the industries However, the share of global shipments which went to these industries
continued to constitute the rose from 2.3% in 2013 to 3.4% in 2014 and the industries continued to
third largest regional market constitute the third largest regional market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industries in Africa shot industries in Africa, which constituted the fourth largest regional
up by 57.9% in 2014 market, shot up by 57.9%, or 99 machines, to 270 machines in 2014. As
a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industries in
Africa rose from 0.8% to 2.8%.
and were above their Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were above the annual average of 224
annual average over the machines which were shipped to the industries over the ten years to
ten years to 2014 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industries in Western industries in Western Europe surged by 73.0%, or 81 machines, to
Europe surged by 73.0% 192 machines in 2014 following a 23.3% rise in the previous year. As
and were in line with their a result, the share of global shipments which went to these industries
annual average over the increased from 0.5% in 2013 to 2.0% in 2014 and the industries
ten years to 2014 constituted the fifth largest regional market after ranking sixth in 2013.
Also, shipments in 2014 were in line with the annual average of 193
machines which were shipped to the industries over the ten years to
2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industries in Eastern industries in Eastern Europe declined by 13.0%, or 14 machines, to
Europe declined by 13.0% 94 machines in 2014. However, the decline came after a 260.0% surge
in 2014 but the decline in the previous year and, as a result, shipments in 2014 were still well
followed a 260.0% surge in above the annual average of 55 machines which were shipped to the
the previous year and, as a industries in the region over the ten years to 2014.
result, shipments in 2014
were still well above their Furthermore, despite the decline in shipments in 2014, the share of
annual average over the global shipments which went to the industries in Eastern Europe during
ten years to 2014 the year increased from 0.5% to 1.0% and the industries constituted the
sixth largest regional market after ranking seventh in the previous year.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industries in North America industries in North America fell by a sharp 43.5%, or 50 machines, to
fell by 43.5% to their third just 65 machines in 2014 and the industries constituted the smallest
lowest level on record in regional market after ranking fifth in 2013.
2014 and the industries
constituted the smallest In fact, shipments in 2014 were at their third lowest level on record and
regional market represented barely a quarter of the annual average of 225 machines
which were shipped to the industries over the ten years to 2014.
Also, the share of global Admittedly, the share of global shipments which went to the industries
shipments which went to increased from 0.5% to 0.7%.
the industries was only half
the share of global cumula- But the latter share was only half the 1.4% share of global
tive shipments which went cumulative shipments which went to the industries over the ten years
to the industries over the to 2014.
ten years to 2014
Single jersey circular knitting machinery: individual country
markets
The textile industry in By far the largest national market for single jersey circular knitting
China remained the largest machinery in 2014 was the textile industry in China.
national market for single
jersey circular knitting In fact, China has held first place since 1999, when it displaced the
machinery in 2014 USA.
However, shipments to the However, shipments to the industry in China plunged by 70.7% to 4,898
industry plunged by 70.7% machines in 2014their lowest level since 2003. Furthermore, the
to their lowest level since plunge accounted for almost all of the fall in global shipments. As a
2003 result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry fell
from 74.7% to 50.5%.
and were less than half Moreover, shipments in 2014 were well less than half the annual
their annual average over average of 11,221 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in India fell by industry in India fell by 2.3% to 1,001 machines in 2014. However, the
2.3% in 2014 but were fall followed a 32.4% increase to a record high in the previous year. As
still at their second a result, shipments in 2014 were still at their second highest level on
highest level on record record.
Furthermore, the share of Furthermore, despite the decline in shipments in 2014, the share of
global shipments which went global shipments which went to the industry increased from 4.6% to
to the industry increased 10.3% and the industry remained the second largest national market.
from 4.6% to 10.3% and
shipments were well above Moreover, shipments in 2014 were well above the annual average of
their annual average over 789 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years to
the ten years to 2014 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Turkey fell by industry in Turkey fell by 32.6% to 554 machines in 2014 following a
32.6% in 2014 15.3% decline in the previous year.
As a result, shipments were As a result, shipments in 2014 were below the annual average of
below their annual average 689 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years to
over the ten years to 2014 2014.
But the industry remained Nevertheless, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
the third largest national increased from 3.7% to 5.7% and the industry remained the third largest
market national market.
Table 6: Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery by region and leading countries of destination, 2013
and 2014
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Bangladesh fell industry in Bangladesh fell by 20.8% to 519 machines in 2014.
by 20.8% in 2014 to their
lowest level since 2004 and The fall represented the third double digit decline in four years, having
were well below their followed a rise of 10.5% in 2013 and declines of 19.2% in 2012 and
annual average over the 22.3% in 2011. As a result, shipments in 2014 were at their lowest
ten years to 2014 level since 2004 and were well below the annual average of
729 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years
to 2014.
Nevertheless, the share of Nevertheless, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
global shipments which went increased from 2.9% to 5.4% and the industry remained the fourth
to the industry increased largest national market.
Shipments to the textile ind- Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
ustry in Vietnam shot up by industry in Vietnam shot up by 76.8% to a record high of 426 machines
76.8% to a record high in in 2014 following a 49.7% rise in the previous year.
2014 and the share of
global shipments which went As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
to the industry increased increased from 1.1% in 2013 to 4.4% in 2014 and the industry climbed
from 1.1% to 4.4% three places to become the fifth largest national market.
Also, shipments were more Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were more than double the annual
than double their annual ave- average of 175 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
rage over the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Indonesia fell industry in Indonesia fell by 39.6% to 324 machines in 2014 after
by 39.6% in 2014 to their plunging by 43.6% in the previous year. As a result, shipments in 2014
lowest level since 2005 were at their lowest level since 2005 and were well below the annual
average of 456 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
ten years to 2014.
and the industry slipped Admittedly, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
one place to become the sixth rose from 2.4% to 3.3% but the industry slipped one place to become
largest national market the sixth largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in South Korea industry in South Korea declined by 30.9% to 179 machines in 2014.
declined by 30.9% in 2014
to a level which was below As a result, shipments to the industry in 2014 were below the annual
their annual average over average of 255 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
but the industry Nevertheless, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
remained the seventh rose from 1.2% to 1.8% and the industry remained the seventh largest
largest market national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Brazil fell by industry in Brazil fell by 36.3% to 167 machines in 2014 following
36.3% in 2014 to their declines of 13.2% in 2013, 34.9% in 2012 and 30.8% in 2011. As a
lowest level since 2004 result, shipments in 2014 were at their lowest level since 2004 and were
well below the annual average of 428 machines which were shipped to
the industry over the ten years to 2013.
and the industry slipped Admittedly, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
two places to become the rose from 1.2% to 1.7% but the industry slipped two places to become
eighth largest national market the eighth largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Egypt rose by industry in Egypt rose by 67.1% to 122 machines in 2014.
67.1% in 2014 and the
industry climbed ten places As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
to become the ninth largest increased from 0.3% to 1.3% and the industry climbed ten places to
national market become the ninth largest national market.
Also, shipments were in line Also, shipments to the industry in 2014 were in line with the annual
with their annual average average of 124 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
over the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of single jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Taiwan fell by industry in Taiwan fell by 45.5% to 109 machines in 2014.
45.5% in 2014 to their
lowest level since 2009 As a result, shipments were at their lowest level since 2009 and were
below the annual average of 135 machines which were shipped to the
industry over the ten years to 2014.
and the industry slipped Admittedly, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
one place to become the tenth rose from 0.9% to 1.1% but the industry slipped one place to become
largest national market the tenth largest national market.
Over the ten years to 2014, Over the ten years to 2014, the largest national market for single jersey
the largest national market circular knitting machinery was the textile industry in China with a
was the textile industry in 67.8% share of global shipments over this period (Table 7).
China with a 67.8% share of
global shipments, followed The second largest national market was the textile industry in India with
by the industries in India, a 4.8% share of the global total, followed by the industries in
Bangladesh, Turkey, Bangladesh (with a 4.4% share), Turkey (with a 4.2% share), Indonesia
Indonesia, Brazil, South (with a 2.8% share), Brazil (with a 2.6% share), South Korea (with a
Korea, Vietnam, Taiwan 1.5% share), Vietnam (with a 1.1% share), Taiwan (with a 0.8% share)
and Egypt and Egypt (with a 0.7% share).
Table 7: Cumulative shipments of circular knitting machinery by type, region and leading countries of destination,
2005-14
Table 8: Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery by region and leading countries of destination, 2013
and 2014
Figure 3
Cumulative shipments of circular knitting machinery,
selected countries, 2005-14
China
India
Turkey
Bangladesh
Indonesia
Brazil
South Korea
Vietnam
Taiwan
Thailand
Macau
Egypt
USA
Italy
Pakistan
Singapore
Uzbekistan
Iran Single jersey Double jersey
Argentina
Figure 4
Shipments of circular knitting machinery,
selected regions, 1995-2014
('000 machines)
35
30
25
Asia and Oceania
20
15
10
5
Americas Europe
0
1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
Source: ITMF
However, the share of global However, the increase in shipments in 2014 was slower than the
shipments which went to increase in global shipments and, as a result, the share of global
these industries fell slightly shipments which went to these industries fell slightly from 90.9% in
from 90.9% to 89.6% 2013 to 89.6% in 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in other Europe industry in other Europe (Turkey) rose by 15.6% to 771 machines in
increased in 2014 for the 2014 following increases of 48.9% in 2013, 67.8% in 2012, 85.4% in
fifth consecutive year and 2011 and 102.8% in 2010.
reached a record high for
the second year in As a result, shipments reached a record high in 2014 for the second year
succession in succession and were more than double the annual average of
362 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years to
2014.
Also, the industry Admittedly, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
remained the second declined from 4.7% to 4.1% but the industry remained the second
largest regional market largest regional market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industries in Western industries in Western Europe surged by 160.2% to 320 machines in
Europe surged by 160.2% 2014, following a 61.8% increase in the previous year.
in 2014 to their highest level
since 2001 and were almost As a result, shipments in 2014 were at their highest level since 2001 and
double their annual average were almost double the annual average of 169 machines which were
over the ten years to 2014 shipped to the industries over the ten years to 2014.
Also, the industries constituted Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industries
the third largest regional mar- rose from 0.9% to 1.7% and, as a result, the industries constituted the
ket after ranking sixth in 2013 third largest regional market after ranking sixth a year earlier.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industries in Africa surged industries in Africa surged by 121.3% to a record high of 312 machines
by 121.3% to a record high in 2014.
in 2014 and the share of
global shipments which went As a result, the share of global shipments which went to these industries
to these industries increased increased from 1.0% to 1.7% and the industries continued to constitute
from 1.0% to 1.7% the fourth largest regional market.
Also, shipments were more Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were more than double the annual
than double their annual ave- average of 144 machines which were shipped to the industries over the
rage over the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industries in South industries in South America shot up by 57.5% to 274 machines in
America shot up by 57.5% 2014. As a result, shipments in 2014 were at their highest level since
in 2014 to their highest 2001 and were well above the annual average of 206 machines which
level since 2001 and the were shipped to the industries over the ten years to 2014.
share of global shipments
which went to these Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to these
industries increased from industries increased from 1.2% to 1.5%. However, the industries
1.2% to 1.5% constituted the fifth largest regional market after ranking third a year
earlier.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industries in North America industries in North America increased by 46.1% to 187 machines in
increased at a double digit 2014 following jumps of 73.0% in 2013 and 72.1% in 2012. As a result,
rate for the third consecu- shipments in 2014 were at their highest level since 2007 and were above
tive year in 2014 to their the annual average of 161 machines which were shipped to the
highest level since 2007 but industries over the ten years to 2014.
the industries constituted
the sixth largest regional Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industries
market after ranking fifth rose from 0.9% to 1.0%. However, the industries constituted the sixth
in 2013 largest regional market after ranking fifth in 2013.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industries in Eastern industries in Eastern Europe rose by 59.3% to 94 machines in 2014
Europe rose by 59.3% to a following a similar, 59.5%, increase in the previous year. As a result
record high in 2014 shipments reached a record high in 2014 and were more than double the
annual average of 46 machines which were shipped to the industries
over the ten years to 2014.
However, the industries Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to these
continued to constitute the industries increased from 0.4% to 0.5%. However, the industries
smallest regional market continued to constitute the smallest regional market.
But the share of global However, the increase in shipments to the industry in 2014 was slower
shipments which went to than the rise in global shipments and, as a result, the industrys share of
the industry fell to 64.1% global shipments fell from 75.6% to 64.1%.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in India surged by industry in India surged by 155.3% to a record high of 1,463 machines
155.3% to a record high in in 2014.
2014 and the industry
climbed one place to As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
become the second largest increased from 4.0% to 7.8% and the industry climbed one place to
national market become the second largest national market.
Also, shipments were more Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were more than double the annual
than double their annual ave- average of 560 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
rage over the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Turkey rose by industry in Turkey rose by 15.6% to 771 machines in 2014 following
15.6% to a record high for increases of 48.9% in 2013, 67.8% in 2012, 85.4% in 2011 and 102.8%
the second year in in 2010. As a result, shipments reached a record high in 2014 for the
succession in 2014 second year in succession and were more than double the annual
average of 362 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
ten years to 2014.
However, the share of glo- However, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
bal shipments which went declined from 4.7% in 2013 to 4.1% in 2014 and the industry slipped
to the industry declined one place to become the third largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Vietnam surged industry in Vietnam surged by 235.1% to 573 machines in 2014
by 235.1% to a record high following a 35.7% rise in the previous year. As a result, shipments
in 2014 and accounted for reached a record high for the second consecutive year.
as much as 42.3% of the
total number of machines Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the
shipped to the industry industry increased from 1.2% in 2013 to 3.0% in 2014 and the industry
over the ten years to 2014 climbed three places to become the fourth largest national market.
Moreover, shipments in 2014 accounted for as much as 42.3% of the
total number of machines shipped to the industry over the ten years to
2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Indonesia rose industry in Indonesia rose by 50.2% to 473 machines in 2014. The
by 50.2% to a record high rise represented the fourth double digit increase in five years, having
in 2014 and were more come after a 19.8% decline in 2013 and hikes of 62.4% in 2012, 25.4%
than double their annual in 2011 and 30.4% in 2010. As a result, shipments reached a record
average over the ten years high in 2014 and were more than double the annual average of
to 2014 216 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years to
2014.
However, the industry Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
slipped one place to become increased from 2.2% to 2.5%. However, the industry slipped one place
the fifth largest market to become the fifth largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Bangladesh industry in Bangladesh increased by 67.4% to 432 machines in 2014
increased by 67.4% in 2014 following an 81.7% jump in the previous year. As a result, shipments in
to their highest level since 2014 reached their highest level since 2006 and their second highest
2006 and were well above level on record. Also, they were well above the annual average of
their annual average over 322 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years to
the ten years to 2014 2014.
However, the industry Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
slipped one place to become rose from 1.8% to 2.3%. However, the industry slipped one place to
the sixth largest market become the sixth largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in South Korea industry in South Korea rose by 62.9% to 334 machines in 2014
rose by 62.9% in 2014 to following a jump of 113.5% in the previous year. As a result, shipments
their highest level since in 2014 were at their highest level since 1997 and were more than
1997 double the annual average of 129 machines which were shipped to the
industry over the ten years to 2014.
However, the industry Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
slipped one place to become increased from 1.4% in 2013 to 1.8% in 2014. However, the industry
the seventh largest market slipped one place to become the seventh largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in the UAE surged industry in the United Arab Emirates (UAE) surged by 9,600.0%,
by 9,600.0% to a record albeit from a small base, to a record high of 291 machines in 2014. In
high in 2014 and the fact, shipments in 2014 accounted for as much as 87.1% of total
industry climbed no less shipments to the industry over the ten years to 2014. As a result, the
than 46 places to become share of global shipments which went to the industry increased to 1.5%
the eighth largest national from more or less zero in the previous year and the industry climbed no
market less than 46 places to become the eighth largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Taiwan rose by industry in Taiwan rose by 56.2% to 250 machines in 2014 following
56.2% in 2014 to their highest a 22.1% increase in the previous year. As a result, shipments in 2014
level since 1999 and were were at their highest level since 1999 and were double the annual
double their annual average average of 125 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
over the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
However, the industry Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
slipped one place to become increased from 1.1% to 1.3%. However, the industry slipped one place
the ninth largest market to become the ninth largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of double jersey circular knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Uzbekistan industry in Uzbekistan shot up by 174.1% to a record high of 159
shot up by 174.1% to a machines in 2014. As a result, the share of global shipments which went
record high in 2014 and to the industry increased from 0.4% to 0.8% and the industry climbed
were almost four times one place to become the tenth largest national market.
their annual average over
the ten years to 2014 Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were almost four times the annual
average of 42 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten
years to 2014.
Over the ten years to 2014, Over the ten years to 2014, the largest national market for double
the largest national market jersey circular knitting machinery was the textile industry in China with
was the textile industry in a 75.5% share of global shipments (see Table 7).
China with a 75.5% share of
global shipments, followed The second largest national market was the textile industry in India with
by the industries in India, a 4.2% share, followed by the industries in Turkey (with a 2.7% share),
Turkey, Bangladesh, Bangladesh (with a 2.4% share), Indonesia (with a 1.6% share),
Indonesia, Vietnam, South Vietnam (with a 1.0% share), South Korea (with a 1.0% share),
Korea, Thailand, Macau Thailand (with a 1.0% share), Macau (with a 1.0% share) and Taiwan
and Taiwan (with a 0.9% share).
In this report, flat knitting In this report, flat knitting machinery is divided into two categories:
machinery is divided into
two categories electronic flatbed knitting machinery; and
hand knitting and semi-automatic knitting machinery.
As a result, shipments of the As a result, shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery remained
former continued to exceed higher than shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic knitting
shipments of the latter machinery in 2014 for the fifth consecutive year.
Geographically, shipments Geographically, the decline in shipments of hand knitting and semi-
of hand knitting and semi- automatic knitting machinery in 2014 reflected falls in shipments to the
automatic knitting textile industries in all seven regions analysed in this report. In fact,
machinery went only to the investments by the industries in six of the seven regions were cut
industries in Asia in 2014 entirely. As a result, shipments in 2014 went only to the textile
industries in Asia (Table 9).
Lower wages enable Asian Lower wages have enabled Asian mills to afford the additional
mills to afford the labour to manpower needed to run hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting
run hand knitting and semi- machinery compared with the manpower needed to operate electronic
automatic knitting machinery flatbed knitting machinery.
Elsewhere, no shipments This has also been the case to a certain extent in Africa and Eastern
of hand knitting and semi- Europe in recent years.
automatic flat knitting
machinery were made to However, in 2014 no shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat
the textile industries in knitting machinery were made to the textile industries in these two
any other region while regions while shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the
shipments of electronic industries increased sharply and reached record highs in both cases.
flatbed knitting
machinery reached record These trends were also apparent in shipments to the textile industries in
highs in many regions North America, South America and Western Europe.
and were well above their Meanwhile, shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the
annual average over the ten textile industry in other Europe declined in 2014 but were still well
years to 2014 in other Europe above their annual average over the ten years to 2014.
Table 9: Breakdown of flat knitting machinery shipments by type and region, 2014
Machines smaller than 70" Within the total market for electronic flatbed knitting machinery,
dominated the market for machines smaller than 70" dominated in 2014.
electronic flatbed knitting
machinery in 2014 Indeed, such machines accounted for no less than 92.7% of total
shipments, although this was down from 99.3% in the previous year.
In fact, there has been a In fact, there has been a significant shift towards smaller machines
significant shift towards in recent years. In 2000 the share of machines smaller than 70" was
smaller machines in recent only 58.0% while machines 70" or larger accounted for the other
years 42.0%.
The shift has been partly The main reasons for the shift towards smaller machines over the
due to a preference among 14-year period are as follows.
Chinese knitters for
compact machines with Many Chinese knitters prefer compact machines with multi-gauge
multi-gauge functions functions.
Also, short needle beds up It is more common today to produce parts of clothing such as
to 70" are large enough for sleeves, and front and back parts. For this purpose, short needle
making parts of clothing beds of up to 70" are large enough.
The rise was due to a 22.3% The rise in shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery in 2014
increase in shipments of was due to increases in shipments of machinery up to 70" (up by 22.3%,
machinery up to 70" and a or 7,793 machines, to 42,720 machines) and in shipments of machinery
1,221.5% increase in measuring 70" or larger (up by 1,221.5%, or 3,127 machines, to 3,383
shipments of machinery machines).
70" or larger
Table 10: Shipments of flatbed knitting machinery by region and leading countries of destination, 2013 and 2014
Figure 5
Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery,
selected regions, 2000-14
('000 machines)
70
60
40
30
20
Americas
10
Europe
0
2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
Source: ITMF
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industries in Asia were industries in Asia were up by 30.2%, or 9,163 machines, to 39,465
up by 30.2% but the machines.
share of global shipments
which went to these However, this was slightly slower than the 31.0% rise in global
industries fell slightly shipments and, as a result, the share of global shipments which went to
from 86.1% to 85.6% these industries fell from 86.1% in 2013 to 85.6% in 2014.
Nonetheless, the industries Nonetheless, the textile industries in Asia continued to constitute by
continued to constitute by far the largest regional market for electronic flatbed knitting
far the largest regional machinery.
market and shipments in
2014 were well above their Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were well above the annual average of
annual average over the 29,931 machines which were shipped to the industries over the ten years
ten years to 2014 to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industry in other Europe industry in other Europe (Turkey) declined by 32.7% to 1,879
declined by 32.7% in 2014 machines in 2014.
but were still at their fifth
highest level on record and However, the decline followed increases of 4.9% in 2013, 24.2% in
were well above their 2012, 58.6% in 2011 and 188.7% in 2010. As a result, shipments in
annual average over the 2014 were still at their fifth highest level on record and were well above
ten years to 2014 the annual average of 1,327 machines which were shipped to the
industry over the ten years to 2014.
Also, the industry Admittedly, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
remained the second fell sharply from 7.9% in 2013 to 4.1% in 2014. Nonetheless, the
largest regional market industry remained the second largest regional market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industries in Western industries in Western Europe rose by 38.3% to 1,611 machines in
Europe rose by 38.3% in 2014.
2014 to their highest level
since 2002 and were well As a result, shipments in 2014 were at their highest level since 2002 and
above their annual average were well above the annual average of 1,173 machines which were
over the ten years to 2014 shipped to the industries over the ten years to 2014.
Also, the share of global Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industries
shipments which went to increased from 3.3% to 3.5% and the industries continued to constitute
the industries increased the third largest regional market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industries in Eastern industries in Eastern Europe shot up by 178.0% to 1,087 machines in
Europe shot up by 178.0% 2014.
to a record high in 2014
and accounted for over a The rise represented the sixth increase in seven years and, as a result,
third of cumulative shipments to the industries reached a record high.
shipments to the industries
over the ten years to 2014 In fact, shipments in 2014 alone accounted for over a third of
cumulative shipments to the industries over the ten years to 2014.
Furthermore, the share of Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industries
global shipments which rose from 1.1% in 2013 to 2.4% in 2014 and the industries continued to
went to the industries rose constitute the fourth largest regional market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industries in Africa surged industries in Africa surged by 341.1% to 891 machines in 2014. The
by 341.1% to a record high surge represented the fifth consecutive increase in shipments to these
in 2014 and accounted for industries.
over half of cumulative
shipments to the industries As a result, shipments in 2014 were at a record high and accounted for
over the ten years to 2014 as much as 52.9% of cumulative shipments to the industries over the ten
years to 2014.
Furthermore, the share of Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to these
global shipments which went industries increased from 0.6% to 1.9% and the industries constituted
to these industries increased the fifth largest regional market after ranking sixth in the previous year.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industries in South America industries in South America shot up by 194.1% to a record high of 750
shot up by 194.1% to a machines in 2014.
record high in 2014 and
were more than double As a result, shipments in 2014 were more than double the annual
their annual average over average of 266 machines which were shipped to the industries over the
the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
Furthermore, the share of Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to these
global shipments which industries increased from 0.7% to 1.6%. However, the industries
went to these industries constituted only the sixth largest regional market after ranking fifth in
increased the previous year.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industries in North industries in North America soared by 445.5% to a record high of 420
America soared by 445.5% machines in 2014. In fact, shipments in 2014 accounted for as much as
to a record high in 2014 42.3% of cumulative shipments to the industries over the ten years to
and the share of global 2014.
shipments which went to
these industries increased Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industries
increased from 0.2% in 2013 to 0.9% in 2014.
However, the industries However, the industries continued to constitute the smallest regional
continued to constitute the market.
smallest regional market
Electronic flatbed knitting machinery: individual country
markets
Shipments of electronic flat- Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
bed knitting machinery to industry in China fell by 6.8%, or 1,411 machines, to 19,391
the textile industry in China machines in 2014 following declines of 37.0% in 2013 and 39.7%
fell by 6.8% in 2014 to their in 2012. As a result, shipments in 2014 were at their lowest level since
lowest level since 2009 2009.
Also, they were below Also, shipments to the industry were below the annual average of
their annual average over 20,796 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years
the ten years to 2014 to 2014.
Furthermore, the share of Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the Chinese
global shipments which industry fell from 59.1% in 2013 to 42.1% in 2014, although the
went to the industry fell industry remained the largest national market.
Shipments to the textile in- Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
dustry in Bangladesh surged industry in Bangladesh surged by 185.5% to a record high of 11,312
by 185.5% to a record high in machines in 2014.
2014 and the share of global
shipments which went to the As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
industry increased from increased from 11.3% in 2013 to 24.5% in 2014 and the industry
11.3% to 24.5% remained the second largest national market.
Also, shipments were four Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were almost four times the annual
times their annual average average of 2,923 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
over the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Vietnam soared industry in Vietnam soared by 373.6% to 1,956 machines in 2014
by 373.6% to a record high following a 164.7% surge in the previous year.
in 2014 and accounted for as
much as 71.1% of cumulative As a result, shipments in 2014 reached a record high for the second
shipments to the industry consecutive year and accounted for as much as 71.1% of cumulative
over the ten years to 2014 shipments to the industry over the ten years to 2014.
Also, the industry climbed Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
seven places to become the increased from 1.2% in 2013 to 4.2% in 2014 and the industry climbed
third largest market seven places to become the third largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Turkey industry in Turkey declined by 32.7% to 1,879 machines in 2014.
declined by 32.7% in 2014
and the industry slipped As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry fell
one place to become the sharply, from 7.9% in 2013 to 4.1% in 2014, and the industry slipped
fourth largest market one place to become the fourth largest national market.
However, shipments in However, the decline in shipments in 2014 followed increases of 4.9%
2014 were well above their in 2013, 24.2% in 2012, 58.6% in 2011 and 188.7% in 2010. As a
annual average over the result, shipments in 2014 were still at their fifth highest level on record
ten years to 2014 and were well above the annual average of 1,327 machines which were
shipped to the industry over the ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile indus- Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
try in India shot up by 342.3% industry in India shot up by 342.3% to a record high of 1,840 machines
to a record high in 2014 and in 2014.
accounted for 49.6% of cumu-
lative shipments to the indus- In fact, shipments in 2014 accounted for as much as 49.6% of
try over the ten years to 2014 cumulative shipments to the industry over the ten years to 2014.
Also, the industry climbed As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
four places to become the increased from 1.2% in 2013 to 4.0% in 2014 and the industry climbed
fifth largest market four places to become the fifth largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Cambodia industry in Cambodia surged by 163.3% to a record high of 977
surged by 163.3% to a machines in 2014.
record high in 2014 and
the share of global As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
shipments which went to increased from 1.1% in 2013 to 2.1% in 2014.
the industry increased
from 1.1% to 2.1% Also, the industry climbed five places to become the sixth largest
national market.
Also, shipments were more Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were more than double the annual
than double their annual ave- average of 470 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
rage over the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Italy rose by industry in Italy rose by 18.4% to 939 machines in 2014.
18.4% in 2014 and were
above their annual average As a result, shipments in 2014 were above the annual average of
over the ten years to 2014 but 847 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years to
the share of global shipments 2014.
which went to the industry
fell and the industry slipped However, the share of global shipments which went to the industry fell
two places to become the from 2.3% in 2013 to 2.0% in 2014 and the industry slipped two places
seventh largest market to become the seventh largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Russia shot up industry in Russia shot up by 165.9% to a record high of 880 machines
by 165.9% to a record high in 2014.
in 2014 and were almost
four times their annual As a result, shipments in 2014 were almost four times the annual
average over the ten years average of 232 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
to 2014 ten years to 2014.
Also, the industry climbed Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
four places to become the increased from 0.9% in 2013 to 1.9% in 2014 and the industry climbed
eighth largest market four places to become the eighth largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Hong Kong industry in Hong Kong plunged by 53.5% to a record low of 859
plunged by 53.5% to a machines in 2014.
record low in 2014 and
were less than a quarter of As a result, shipments in 2014 were less than a quarter of the annual
their annual average over average of 3,517 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
Also, the industry slipped Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
five places to become the declined from 5.3% in 2013 to 1.9% in 2014 and the industry slipped
ninth largest market five places to become the ninth largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of electronic flatbed knitting machinery to the textile
industry in Indonesia rose industry in Indonesia rose by 41.0% to a record high of 602 machines
by 41.0% to a record high in 2014.
in 2014 and were more
than double their annual As a result, shipments in 2014 were more than double the annual
average over the ten years average of 271 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
to 2014 ten years to 2014.
However, the industry Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the
slipped two places to industry increased from 1.2% in 2013 to 1.3% in 2014. However, the
become the tenth largest industry slipped two places to become the tenth largest national
market market.
Over the ten years to 2014, Over the ten years to 2014, the largest national market for electronic
the largest national market flatbed knitting machinery was the textile industry in China with a
was the industry in China 62.5% share of global shipments (Table 11 and Figure 6).
with a 62.5% share of
global shipments, followed The second largest national market was the textile industry in Hong
by the industries in Hong Kong with a 10.6% share, followed by the industries in Bangladesh
Kong, Bangladesh, Turkey, (with an 8.8% share), Turkey (with a 4.0% share), Italy (with a 2.5%
Italy, Cambodia, India, share), Cambodia (with a 1.4% share), India (with a 1.1% share), South
South Korea, Vietnam and Korea (with a 1.0% share), Vietnam (with a 0.8% share) and Indonesia
Indonesia (also with a 0.8% share).
Table 11: Cumulative shipments of flat knitting and trimming machinery by type, region and leading countries of
destination, 2005-14
Hand knitting and
Electronic % semi-automatic % Trimming %
Rank No share Rank No share Rank No share
1 Asiaa 299,307 89.9 1 Asiaa 741,165 97.3 1 Asiaa 15,436 99.5
2 Other Europeb 13,273 4.0 2 Eastern Europe 9,365 1.2 2 South America 36 0.2
3 Western Europe 11,731 3.5 3 Africa 6,244 0.8 3 Africa 25 0.2
4 Eastern Europe 3,095 0.9 4 South America 2,259 0.3 4 Other Europeb 8 0.1
5 South America 2,657 0.8 5 Other Europeb 997 0.1 5 North America 6 0.0
6 Africa 1,684 0.5 6 Western Europe 959 0.1 6 Eastern Europe 1 0.0
7 North America 993 0.3 7 North America 589 0.1 6 Western Europe 1 0.0
Not Specified 11 0.0 Not Specified 461 0.1 Not Specified 0 0.0
World 332,751 100.0 World 762,039 100.0 World 15,513 100.0
Figure 6
Cumulative shipments of electronic flatbed knitting
machinery, selected countries, 2005-14
China
Hong Kong
Bangladesh
Turkey
Italy
Cambodia
India
South Korea
Vietnam
Indonesia
Russia
Japan
Thailand
Brazil Up to 70" 70" or larger
Taiwan
Shipments to the textile Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery
industries in Asia declined to the textile industries in Asia declined by 31.4%, or 8,407 machines,
by 31.4% to a record low to 18,346 machines in 2014which represented a record low for the
for the third consecutive third consecutive year.
year and were less than a
quarter of their annual As a result, shipments to these industries in 2014 were less than a
average over the ten years quarter of the annual average of 74,117 machines which were shipped
to 2014 to the industries over the ten years to 2014.
Table 12: Shipments of hand-knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery by region and leading countries of
destination, 2013 and 2014
Figure 7
Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic knitting
machinery, selected regions, 2000-14
('000 machines)
200,000
150,000
100,000
50,000
Americas Europe
Africa
0
2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
Source: ITMF
Shipments to the textile Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery
industry in Bangladesh fell to the textile industry in Bangladesh plunged by 54.8% to 4,921
for the sixth consecutive machines in 2014 following declines of 36.3% in 2013, 22.4% in 2012,
year to a record low in 18.2% in 2011, 37.1% in 2010 and 44.1% in 2009. As a result,
2014 shipments fell to a record low in 2014 for the second consecutive year.
Furthermore, they were Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
barely an eighth of their fell from 37.3% in 2013 to 26.8% in 2014, and shipments in 2014 were
annual average over the barely an eighth of the annual average of 38,010 machines which were
ten years to 2014 shipped to the industry over the ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery
industry in India fell by to the textile industry in India fell by 5.7% to 975 machines in 2014.
5.7% in 2014 but were still
at their second highest level However, the fall followed a jump of 51.4% in 2013 and, as a result,
since 2002 and were well shipments in 2014 were still at their second highest level since 2002 and
above their annual average were well above the annual average of 647 machines which were
over the ten years to 2014 shipped to the industry over the ten years to 2014.
Furthermore, the share of Furthermore, despite the fall in shipments to the industry in 2014,
global shipments which the share of global shipments which went to the industry rose from
went to the industry rose 3.5% to 5.3% and the industry remained the third largest national
from 3.5% to 5.3% market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery
industry in Vietnam to the textile industry in Vietnam increased by 2.0% to 558 machines
increased by 2.0% in 2014 in 2014.
and the industry climbed
two places to become the As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
fourth largest market rose from 1.9% to 3.0% and Vietnam climbed two places to become the
fourth largest national market.
But shipments were well However, shipments in 2014 were well below the annual average of
below their annual average 836 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years to
over the ten years to 2014 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery
industry in Cambodia to the textile industry in Cambodia declined by 41.1% to 518 machines
declined by 41.1% in 2014 in 2014.
and the industry slipped
one place to become the As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry fell
fifth largest market from 3.0% in 2013 to 2.8% in 2014 and the industry slipped one place
to become the fifth largest national market.
Also, shipments were below Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were below the annual average of
their annual average over 581 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years to
the ten years to 2014 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting
industry in Myanmar surged machinery to the textile industry in Myanmar surged by 167.2% to
by 167.2% to their highest 310 machines in 2014. This represented their highest level since
level since 2002 and accoun- 2002.
ted for 72.3% of cumulative
shipments to the industry In fact, shipments in 2014 alone accounted for as much as 72.3% of
over the ten years to 2014 cumulative shipments to the industry over the ten years to 2014.
Also, the industry climbed Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
ten places to become the rose from 0.4% to 1.7% and the industry climbed ten places to become
sixth largest market the sixth largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery
industry in Thailand to the textile industry in Thailand declined by 42.8% to 190 machines
declined by 42.8% in 2014 in 2014 following a 54.0% plunge in the previous year.
and were less than half
their annual average over As a result, shipments in 2014 were less than half the annual average of
the ten years to 2014 431 machines which were shipped to the industry over the ten years to
2014.
But the industry climbed Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
three places to become the fell from 1.1% to 1.0%. However, the industry climbed three places to
seventh largest market become the seventh largest national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery
industry in Indonesia to the textile industry in Indonesia plummeted by 61.4% to 160
plummeted by 61.4% in machines in 2014 following a similar 63.8% decline in the previous
2014 and were less than a year.
fifth of their annual
average over the ten years As a result, shipments in 2014 were less than a fifth of the annual
to 2014 average of 902 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
ten years to 2014.
Nevertheless, the industry Furthermore, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
remained the eighth fell from 1.4% to 0.9% although the industry remained the eighth largest
largest market national market.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery
industry in Hong Kong to the textile industry in Hong Kong increased by 33.0% to 145
increased by 33.0% in 2014 machines in 2014.
and the industry climbed
eight places to become the As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
ninth largest market rose from 0.4% to 0.8% and the industry climbed eight places to
become the ninth largest national market.
But shipments were less than However, shipments in 2014 were less than a quarter of the annual
a quarter of their annual ave- average of 652 machines which were shipped to the industry over the
rage over the ten years to 2014 ten years to 2014.
Shipments to the textile Shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery
industry in Singapore to the textile industry in Singapore surged by 470.0% to 114 machines
surged by 470.0% in 2014 in 2014.
and the industry climbed
no less than 24 places to As a result, the share of global shipments which went to the industry
become the tenth largest rose from 0.1% to 0.6% and the industry climbed no less than 24 places
market to become the tenth largest national market.
Shipments in 2014 accounted Furthermore, shipments in 2014 were at their highest level since 2002
for 80.3% of total shipments and accounted for as much as 80.3% of total shipments to the industry
over the ten years to 2014 over the ten years to 2014.
Over the ten years to 2014, Over the ten years to 2014, the largest national market for hand
the largest national market knitting and semi-automatic flat knitting machinery was the textile
for hand knitting and semi- industry in Bangladesh with a 49.9% share of global shipments (see
automatic flat knitting Table 11 and Figure 8).
machinery was the textile
industry in Bangladesh with The second largest national market was the textile industry in China
a 49.9% share of global with a 39.6% share. Together, these two industries took almost 90% of
shipments, followed by the global shipments over the ten-year period.
industries in China
Figure 8
Cumulative shipments of hand knitting and semi-automatic
flat knitting machinery, selected countries, 2005-14
Bangladesh
China
South Korea
Indonesia
Russia
Vietnam
Hong Kong
India
Cambodia
Thailand
Madagascar
North Korea
Mauritius
Sri Lanka
South Korea, Indonesia, The third largest national market was the industry in South Korea with
Russia, Vietnam, Hong a 1.4% share, followed by the industries in Indonesia (with a 1.2%
Kong, India, Cambodia share), Russia (with a 1.1% share), Vietnam (also with a 1.1% share),
and Thailand Hong Kong (with a 0.9% share), India (with a 0.8% share), Cambodia
(also with a 0.8% share) and Thailand (with a 0.6% share).
STATISTICAL APPENDIX
Table 13: Installed capacity and shipments of weaving machinery by type, region and selected country, 2005-14
Table 13 (continued): Installed capacity and shipments of weaving machinery by type, region and selected country,
2005-14
Installed capacity 2014a Cumulative shipments
Cotton system Wool 2005-14 Shipments 2014
Shuttleless Shuttle Filamentb systemc Shuttleless Shuttle Shuttleless Shuttle
Eastern Europe
Czech Republic 4,400 n/a 1,917 n/a 1,071 0 152 0
Poland 950 1,400 n/a 800 319 0 30 0
Romania 5,000 1,000 6,700 4,000 708 0 220 0
Russia 55,900 2,000 10,000 10,000 1,036 0 194 0
Others 43,118 n/a n/a n/a 1,842 0 396 0
Total 109,368 9,024 19,317 14,800 4,976 0 992 0
Other Europe
Turkey 45,000 20,000 3,000 6,250 18,471 100 2,323 0
Total Europe 186,093 34,830 41,825 49,115 37,957 134 4,771 0
Not specified n/a n/a n/a n/a 2 0 0 0
World 1,332,645 1,498,811 495,893 121,545 778,837 14,273 71,667 361
NB: installed capacity data are as at January 1; Asia includes Oceania.
a
Automatic and non-automatic looms, 75 cm or wider, installed in mills. b Looms for weaving filament/silk; note that for several
countries such data are not available; a number of figures are based on data. c Mostly rough estimates. d Includes Oceania. e In
addition, there were approximately 30,000 power looms and 500,000 hand looms in the non-mill sector. f Data quoted are for
the mill industry only; in addition, in 2014 there were approximately 2.367 mn power looms in the decentralised sector, of which
some 50,000 were of the shuttleless type; furthermore in 2010 there were approximately 2.3 mn hand looms in the hand loom
sector. g In addition, there were an estimated 30,000 hand looms in the non-mill sector. h In addition, there were approximately
200,000 power looms and 80,000 hand looms in the non-mill sector. i Data relate only to members of the Spinners and Weavers
Association of Korea (SWAK). j In addition, there were approximately 20,000 hand looms in the non-mill sector.
Source: International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF).
Glossary
3GT: the name of a family of polymers, fibres and textiles with stretch properties developed by Toray Industries,
based on the polyester polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT). 3GT fibres are marketed by Invista under the brand
name T400 and 3GT fabrics are marketed by Toray under the brand name Fitty.
807: a commonly used term (formerly utilised by US Customs) to describe a category of apparel which has been
assembled in an overseas country from fabric pieces cut in the USA from fabric formed in any country. The duty
levied on apparel imported under 807 is based only on the value added to the goods overseas rather than the whole
customs value of the goods. This provision is now specified under code 9802.00.8065 of the USAs Harmonized
Tariff Schedule (HTS). This outward processing arrangement benefits mainly countries which are close to the
USAparticularly those in the Caribbean Basin (see also 807A).
807A: a commonly used term (formerly utilised by US Customs) to describe a category of apparel which has been
assembled in an overseas country from fabric pieces cut and formed in the USA. The duty levied on apparel imported
under 807A, a modification of 807, is based only on the value added to the goods overseas rather than the whole
customs value of the goods. Also, goods imported under 807A are provided with almost unlimited access to the US
market. This provision is specified under code 9802.00.8015 of the USAs Harmonized Tariff Schedule (HTS).
Abaca: a banana-like plant (Musa textilis) native to the Philippines which has broad leaves with long stalks. The
fibres obtained from the stalks are used to make cordage, fabric, and paper. (Also called manila and manila hemp.)
Agoa: African Growth and Opportunity Act. The act, implemented in October 2000, provides for duty-free and
quota-free access to the US market for apparel made in Sub-Saharan Africa. To qualify for Agoa benefits, apparel
must be made in an eligible Sub-Saharan African country and, normally, be produced from materials formed within
the region or in the USA. For a limited period, however, the third-country fabric provision permits apparel makers
in lesser developed Sub-Saharan African countries to source materials globally without losing Agoa benefits.
Air-laid: a web or batt of staple fibres formed using the air laying process.
Air laying: a method in which fibres are first dispersed into an air stream, and then condensed from the air stream
on to a permeable cage or conveyor to form a web or batt of staple fibres.
Air texturing: a process in which yarns are over-fed through a turbulent air stream so that entangled loops are
formed in the filaments.
Ajour: an embroidery technique which creates open areas, often in figured patterns and usually on a woven fabric.
Angora: the hair of the angora rabbit. Angora hair should be distinguished from the hair of the angora goat, which
is the source of mohair.
Anti-dumping duty: an extra duty imposed on an imported product by an importing country (or group of countries,
as in the case of the EU) to compensate for the dumping of goods by a foreign supplier.
Article XIX: an article describing a measure available to a member of the World Trade Organization (WTO) which
enables it to protect its market from import surges (see safeguard).
Art silk: artificial silk, usually made from cellulosic fibres such as viscose rayon.
Asean: Association of Southeast Asian Nations comprising Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar,
Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam.
Astrakhan: a thick woven or knitted cloth with a surface of loops or curls which imitates the coat of an Astrakhan
lamb.
ATC: Agreement on Textiles and Clothing, which embodied the results of the negotiations on textiles and clothing
conducted under the Uruguay Round of multilateral trade talks. The ATC provided for the phasing out of MFA
quotas between January 1995 and December 2004.
Bandana: handkerchief designs in simple colour and white stylised patterns, including spots and paisley.
Barathea: a soft fabric with a lightly pebbled or ribbed surface which is constructed in a twilled hopsack or broken
rib weave and is generally made from worsted woolalthough it could be made from silk or other fibres. A worsted
Barathea is often used to make evening jackets and dress coats.
Basket weave: a textile weave consisting of double threads interlaced to produce a checkered pattern similar to that
of a woven basket.
Bast fibre: fibre obtained from the stems of certain types of plant.
Batik: a traditional dyeing process in which portions of cloth are coated with wax and therefore resist the dye,
enabling distinctive patterns to be created. Batik fabrics are characterised by a streaky or mottled appearance.
Batt: single or multiple sheets of fibre used in the production of nonwoven fabric.
BCF: (bulked continuous filament) textured yarn used mainly in the construction of carpets or upholstery.
Bedford cord: a fabric constructed in such a way as to show rounded cords in the warp direction with pronounced
sunken lines between them.
Bicomponent fibres and yarns: a yarn having two different continuous filament components (see also
multicompartment fibres and yarns and multicomponent fibres and yarns).
Biopolishing: a finishing process which uses cellulase enzymes to remove fibre fuzz and pills from the fabric
surface.
Blooming: the tendency of a yarn to become fuller-looking when wetted and dried under certain conditions. In
practice, the overall yarn diameter increases slightlyresulting in a halo effect or softer lookand the length
diminishes. The effect usually results from a change in fibre crimp and, hence a redistribution of the fibres in a yarn,
rather than shrinkage of the fibre itself.
BOD: biological oxygen demanda measure of pollution by oxygen-consuming organic materials in an effluent
stream.
Boiling: a process in which a yarn or garment made from staple fibre containing wool or animal hair is left in
boiling water so that the original fabric construction is obscured by the felted surface.
Boucl: a compound yarn, similar to a gimp yarn, comprising a twisted core with an effect yarn wrapped around
it so as to produce wavy projections on its surface. In general, boucl yarns exhibit an irregular pattern of semi-
circular loops and sigmoid spirals whereas gimp yarns display fairly regular semi-circular projections.
Bourette: a silk noil fabric made from short fibre (silk waste) with a textured surface.
Brocade: usually a jacquard woven fabric in which the figure is developed by floating the warp threads, the weft
threads, or both, and interlacing them in a more or less irregular order.
Brocatelle: a heavy figured cloth in which the pattern is created by warp threads in a satin weave.
Brushed fabrics: fabrics which have undergone a brushing process to produce a napped surface. Brushed fabrics
usually have a soft, slightly weathered, broken-in feel.
Brushing: a finishing process for woven or knitted fabrics in which brushes or other abrading elements are used to
raise a nap (a fuzzy or downy surface).
Cabotage: the transport of goods or passengers between two points in the same country. Originally the term was
used to refer to shipping but it now also covers aviation and road transport. Also commonly used as part of the term
cabotage rights, which means the right of a company from one country to trade, operate aircraft or transport goods
within the domestic borders of another country.
Caged yarn: a strand of yarn enclosed within a fine knitted tube which forms a cage through which the inner core
is visible. In many yarns, the inner strand and the cage are in different but complementary colours.
Calendered: a term used to describe a fabric which has been passed through rollers to smooth and flatten it or confer
surface glaze.
Camel: the hair of the camel or dromedary; also used as a broad description of fawn colour.
Carbonisation: a chemical process for eliminating vegetable matter from animal fibres such as wool by degrading
it to an easily friable (readily crumbled) condition. The process usually involves treatment with an acid followed by
heating. Hydrochloric acid gas is used in the case of the dry carbonisation process while sulphuric acid solution is
used in wet carbonisation.
Carding: the disentanglement, cleaning and intermixing of fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver suitable
for subsequent processing. This is achieved by passing the fibres between moving pins, wires or teeth.
Cashmere: hair with a mean diameter of 18.5 microns or less from the downy undercoat of Asiatic or selectively
bred feral goats.
Caterpillar yarn: yarn with protruding tufts which gives the appearance of a caterpillar.
Cationic dyeable yarn (CDY): a yarn dyed with cationic dye, usually made from modified polyester, modified
nylon or acrylic, which is often used to achieve cross-dyed effects. Cationic dyeable yarn can be used in a pattern
with regular yarn in the same fabric. The pattern becomes visible by dyeing the fabric in two baths, one for each of
the types of yarn. When cationic fibre is fixed with conventional fibre, various multicoloured and cross-dye effects
can be achieved from a single dye bath.
Cationic dye: a type of dye used on modified polyester, modified nylon or acrylic in order to achieve special
effects, such as cross dyeing, in fabric form (see also cationic dyeable yarn (CDY).
Caustic washing: a scouring process which uses sodium hydroxide to remove non-cellulosic impuritiesincluding
hemicelluloses, mineral salts, pectin and waxfrom cotton. The process yields a fabric which possesses a high and
even wettability so that it can be bleached and dyed uniformly.
Cavalry twill: a firm warp-faced cloth, woven to produce a steep twill effect.
Cellophane effect: an effect created in a fabric which gives it the iridescent appearance of cellophane.
Cellulosic fibres: fibres made or chemically derived from a naturally occurring cellulose raw material.
Cellulosic filament: filaments made or chemically derived from a naturally occurring cellulose raw material.
Challis: a lightweight plain-weave fabric, made from cotton or wool, usually with a printed design.
Chambray: a cotton shirting fabric woven with a coloured warp and white weft.
Cheesecloth: an open lightweight plain-weave fabric, usually made from carded cotton yarns.
Chelator: substance which binds particular ions, removing them from solution.
Chemical bonding: part of a production route for making nonwovens; binders are applied to a web which, when
dried, bond the individual fibres to form a coherent sheet.
Chenille: a yarn consisting of a cut pile which may be one or more of a variety of fibres helically positioned around
axial threads that secure it. Gives a thick, soft tufty silk or worsted velvet cord or yarn typically used in embroidery
and for trimmings.
Chinoiserie: fabric designs which are derived from or which are imitations of Chinese motifs.
Circular jersey: fabric produced on circular knitting machines (see also weft knitting).
Circular knitting: a fabric production technique in which fabric is knitted in the form of a tube. Usually, this is
subsequently slit and finished as open width fabric. However, in the case of smaller width machines, the circular
knitting process is used to make body width tubes which need not be slit, thus avoiding the need for a seam and
thereby increasing wearer comfort. These machines can be further modified to knit body blanks which incorporate
some shaping and are separated by a draw-thread.
Cir: a lightweight performance fabric with a shiny surface made from synthetic fibres for use in outerwear.
Cloqu: a compound or double fabric with a figured blister effect, produced by using yarns of different character
or twist which respond in different ways to finishing treatments.
CMT: cut, make and trim. A system whereby a manufacturer produces garments for a customer by cutting fabric
provided by the customer and sewing the cut fabric into garments in accordance with the customers specification.
In many cases, the customer also arranges for the fabrics, trim and accessories to be supplied. In general,
manufacturers operating on a CMT basis do not become involved in the design of the garment or in the procurement
of materials but are merely concerned with its production.
Comforter: an over-covering on a bed that is made with a fabric shell filled with an insulating material.
Commission manufacturing: a form of production whereby manufacturing is undertaken by one manufacturer, for
a fee, on behalf of another manufacturer or a non-manufacturer. Typically, commission manufacturing involves the
production of goods utilising materials provided by the client, and ownership of materials remains with the client.
Similarly, the goods made using these materials are owned by the client.
Composite, composite material: a product formed by intimately combining two or more discrete physical
phasesusually a solid matrix, such as a resin, and a fibrous reinforcing component.
Cord: a term used to describe the way in which textile strands have been twisted, such as in cabled or plied yarns.
Corduroy: a cut weft pile fabric in which the cut fibres form a surface of cords or ribs in the warp direction.
Core-spun yarn: a yarn consisting of an inner core yarn surrounded by staple fibres. A core-spun yarn combines
the strength and/or elongation of the core thread and the characteristics of the staple fibres which form the surface.
Core-twisted yarn: a yarn produced by combining one fibre or filament with another during a twisting process.
Count: a measure of linear density. (See also decitex, denier, English cotton count, metric count, Ne and Nm.)
Countervailing duty: an extra duty imposed on an imported product by an importing country (or group of countries,
as in the case of the EU) to compensate for subsidies deemed to be illegal which are given to the manufacturer of
the product in the exporting country.
Courtelle: A brand name for acrylic fibre used by Acordis (formerly Courtaulds).
Cover factor (knitted fabrics): (tightness factor) a number that indicates the extent to which the area of a knitted
fabric is covered by yarn. It is also an indication of the relative looseness or tightness of the knitting.
Cover factor (woven fabrics): a number that indicates the extent to which the area of a fabric is covered by one
set of threads. For any woven fabric, there are two cover factors: a warp cover factor and a weft cover factor. Under
the cotton system, the cover factor is the ratio of the number of threads per inch to the square root of the cotton yarn
count.
Covert: a warp-faced fabric, usually of a twill weave, with a characteristic mottled appearance obtained by the use
of a grandrelle (two-colour twisted yarn) or mock grandrelle warp.
Crease-resist finish: a finish, usually applied to fabrics made from cotton or other cellulosic fibres or their blends,
which improves the crease recovery and smooth-drying properties of a fabric. In the process used most commonly,
the fabric is impregnated with a solution of a reagent which penetrates the fibres and, after drying and curing, cross-
links the fibre structure under the influence of a catalyst and heat. The crease-resistant effect is durable to washing
and to normal use.
Crpon: a crpe fabric which is more rugged than the usual crpe with a fluted or crinkled effect in the warp
direction.
Cretonne: a strong, printed cotton cloth which is sometimes made with a weft of cotton waste.
Crock: a measure of the resistance of a fabric to the loss of colour due to rubbing or abrasion.
Cross-dyeing: the dyeing of a yarn or fabric containing a mixture of fibres, at least one of which is coloured
separately.
Cross-linking: the creation of chemical bonds between polymer molecules to form a three-dimensional polymeric
network, for example in a fibre or pigment binder.
Curcuma: a fabric with a yellow colour similar to that produced by the curcuma spice.
Curing (chemical finishing): a process carried out after the application of a finish to a textile fabric in which
appropriate conditions are used to effect a chemical reaction. Usually, the fabric is heat treated for several minutes.
However, it may be subject to higher temperatures for short times (flash curing) or to low temperatures for longer
periods and at higher regain (moist curing).
Cut and sew: a system of manufacturing in which shaped pieces are cut from a layer of fabric and stitched together
to form garments. In the case of tubular knitted fabric, the cloth is either cut down one side and opened up into a flat
fabric or left as a tube and cut to shape.
Damask: a figured woven fabric in which the design is created by the use of satin and sateen weaves.
Decitex: a unit of the tex system. A measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 10,000 metres of fibre or yarn.
Decitex per filament (dpf): the average decitex of each filament in a multifilament yarn.
Decortication (flax): the process of removing woody outer layers from the stem of the flax plant to yield flax fibres.
Dgrad: a textile dyeing technique which is used to produce a gradual change in the shade of a colour from dark
to light or vice versa.
Delocalisation: the geographical move of a production unit to a low cost country. (Note that the term is increasingly
being used to describe all forms of shifts in production, including foreign sourcing and subcontracting.)
Denier: a measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 9,000 metres of fibre or yarn.
Denim: a 3/1 warp-faced twill fabric made from a yarn-dyed warp and an undyed weft yarn. Traditionally, the
warp yarn was indigo-dyed.
Denim bleaching: a finishing process which uses sodium hypochlorite to discolour denim fabric. It is used when
the colour of the indigo needs to be lightened and also to clean up the pocket lining and the weft, which is visible
on the inner face of the jeans.
Dents/inch: a unit of measure which denotes the number of reed wires and spaces between adjacent wires in one
inch.
Dvor: the production of a pattern on a fabric by printing it with a substance that destroys one or more of the fibre
types present.
Differential dyeing: a process in which a coloration treatment is applied to a textile containing fibres with different
dyeing properties. Usually, the term refers to a combination of fibres of the same generic class in which some of the
fibres have been modified to change their affinity for dye so that they dye more deeply or less deeply than standard
fibres. However, differential dyeing can also occur when blends of different generic fibres types, such as cotton and
polyester, are used.
Dip dyeing: a process in which a textile or garment is dipped into a dye bath to achieve dye take-up only in those
areas immersed.
District check: distinctive woollen checks originally made in different districts of Scotland.
Dobby machine: a device fitted to a weaving machine which is capable of being programmed to make dobby
weaves by selectively raising some heald shafts containing warp threads and selectively depressing others. Dobby
machines are capable of weaving a wider range of patterns than non-Dobby machines such as cam looms, but they
are not capable of weaving the wide variety and sophistication of patterns offered by jacquard machines.
Dobby weave: a fabric, often of a complex construction, woven on a dobby machine by selectively raising some
heald shafts containing warp threads and selectively depressing others.
Dogstooth or houndstooth check: a small colour and weave effect using a 2/2 twill.
Dope dyeing: a method of colouring man-made fibres by incorporating a dye or colorant in the spinning solution
or polymer melt before extrusion into filaments.
Doupion: a fabric made of irregular, raw, rough silk reeled from double cocoons, or a man-made fibre substitute
designed to imitate the silk equivalent.
Drafting: a process which reduces the linear density of an assembly of fibres. Drafting typically occurs in the early
stages of producing yarns from staple fibres.
Draw ratio: In a drawing process, the ratio of the linear density of the undrawn yarn to that of the drawn yarn.
Draw spinning: a process for spinning partially or highly oriented filaments in which the orientation is introduced
after melt spinning but prior to the first forwarding or collecting device.
Draw textured yarn (DTY): yarn produced by the draw texturing method.
Draw texturing: a process in which the drawing stage of synthetic yarn manufacture is combined with the texturing
process.
Draw twist: a process of orienting a filament yarn by drawing it and then twisting it in integrated sequential stages.
Dry spinning: in the dry spinning process, polymer is dissolved in a solvent before being spun into warm air, where
the solvent evaporates. This leaves the fibrous polymer ready for drawing.
Dumping: the offer for sale of large quantities of goods in a foreign market at low prices, usually in order to gain
market share, while maintaining higher prices in the home market. Dumping may be deemed to have taken place
when a product is sold in a foreign market at a price which is less than the cost of production plus a normal profit
margin.
Durable press: (also known as permanent press) a finishing treatment designed to impart to a textile material or
garment the retention of specific contours, including defined creases and pleats, which are resistant to normal usage,
washing and/or dry cleaning.
Dye liquor: the liquid that contains the dye and the reagents necessary for dyeing.
Elastane: a fibre containing at least 85% by mass of a segmented polyurethane which possesses inherent stretch
properties (also known as spandex, especially in the USA). Elastane fibre can be stretched by up to 700% without
breaking and recovers to its original length after being stretched.
Elastolefin fibre: an inherently elastic fibre composed of at least 95% by mass of macromolecules made up of
ethylene and at least one other olefin. The molecules are partially cross-linked. When the fibre is stretched to one
and a half times its original length and released, it recovers rapidly and substantially to its initial length.
Elastomeric fibre: a fibre which possesses extremely high elongations at break and recovers fully and rapidly from
high elongations up to its breaking point. The term elastomer is derived from elastic polymer.
Electret: a permanently polarised dielectric material whose electric field is similar to the magnetic field of a
permanent magnet.
Elite: a brand name used by Nylstar for a stretch polyamide 6.6 fibre.
Embossing: a process in which a pattern is formed in relief by passing fabric through a calender in which a heated
metal bowl engraved with a pattern is compressed against a soft bowl.
Embroidery: a decorative pattern superimposed on an existing fabric by machine stitching or hand needlework.
Emerised: a fabric which has been passed over a series of emery-covered rollers to produce a suede-like finish.
End-and-end: fabrics having alternating warp yarns, usually one in a colour and one in white.
Engineered stripes: yarn dyed knitwear made on modern knitting equipment with wide bands of multiple colours.
The effect is not possible to achieve on less sophisticated repeat machines.
Entrept: a trading centre or port at a geographically convenient location where goods are imported and re-exported
without directly entering the local economy. According to the strict definition, goods are imported into and re-
exported from an entrept without incurring liability for duties.
Enzyme washing: a bio-scouring process which is used as an alternative to caustic washing to remove non-cellulosic
impurities from cotton. Bio-scouring involves treating the cotton with a mixture of enzymes, often cellulase and
pectinase. The bio-scouring process yields a cotton substrate which possesses an intact cellulose structure with
relatively low loss of weight and loss of strength.
Exhaust treatment: a batchwise treatment in which a substance (such as a finish) is selectively adsorbed by a textile
material immersed in the treatment liquor.
Fairisle: a type of sweater knitted with a coloured pattern in a traditional design originating in Scotland.
False twist: the twist inserted in a yarn using false twisting such that the net twist in the yarn is zero.
False twisting: a twisting operation applied at an intermediate position on a yarn so that no net twist can be inserted,
as distinct from twisting at the end of a yarn where real twist is inserted.
False-twist texturing: a process in which a single filament yarn is twisted, set and untwisted. When yarns made
from thermoplastic materials are heat-set in a twisted condition, the deformation of the filaments is memorised
and the yarn is given greater bulk.
Fancy yarn: a yarn which differs from the normal construction of single and folded yarns by way of deliberately
produced irregularities in its construction. These irregularities are formed by increasing the input of one or more of
the yarns components, or including periodic effects such as knops, loops, curls or slubs.
Fell (of the cloth): the edge of the fabric in a weaving loom formed by the last weft thread.
Felting: the matting together of fibres during processing. This is achieved on animal hair or wool by the application
of moisture or heat, which causes the constituent fibres to mat together.
Fibre: a material used to make textiles which is flexible, fine, and has a high ratio of length to thickness.
Fibrillation: the longitudinal splitting of a fibre or filament to give either micro-fine surface hairs or a complete
breakdown into sub-micron fibres. In fabrics for apparel, fibrillation can be used to create a variety of surface
textures and attractive aesthetics. In hydroentangled nonwoven fabrics, the fibrils make entanglement easier and
can give added strength to the fabric.
Fibroin: a tough, elastic protein which forms the principal component of raw silk.
Fil coup: extra, floating, wefts which are embodied in a fabric, particularly a jacquard, and can be cut to produce
a fringe effect.
Filigree: fine, intricate jewellers work in gold or silver wire or a printed or embroidered pattern of swirling motifs
resembling such work.
Finish oil: oil that is put on a yarn, either flat or textured, to reduce friction during subsequent processing stages.
Flannel: generally, a cotton or wool fabric, which has been napped on one or both sides (usually both) followed
by a bleaching, dyeing or printing process and then brushed or rerun through the napping machine to revive the nap.
Flannel fabrics are perceived to have a soft and warm feel.
Fleece fabric: a fabric, usually knitted, with a heavy napped surface on one side. The fabric is produced using two
types of yarn, one for the face area and the other for the reverse. After fabric formation and processing, the reverse
area is brushed to produce the fleece effect. The inside surface of a sweatshirt is usually napped.
Floating (warp): a length of warp yarn which passes over two or more weft threads (rather than intersecting with
them) in a woven structure.
Floating (weft): a length of weft yarn which passes over two or more warp threads (rather than intersecting with
them) in a woven structure.
Flock: a material obtained by reducing textile fibres to fragments by, for example, cutting, tearing, or grinding.
Flocking: a process in which short chopped lengths of fibre (flock) are applied to an adhesive coated backing fabric
or other substrate. The application is usually carried out electrostatically.
Flock printing: a process in which a fabric is printed with an adhesive, followed by the application of finely
chopped fibres over the whole surface of the fabric by means of dusting-on, an air blast, or electrostatic attraction.
The fibres adhere to the printed areas, and are removed from the unprinted areas by mechanical action.
Flounce: hanging strips of material which are normally sewn to the hem of a skirt.
Foam printing: a process in which a rubber solution is turned into a foam and squeezed through a screen to make
a rubber print. Also known as puff rubber printing.
Fob: free on board: goods are delivered on-board a ship or to another carrier at no cost to the buyer.
Folded yarn: a yarn made by twisting two or more single yarns together in one operation.
Full package supplier (garments): a supplier who carries out all steps involved in the production of a finished
garmentincluding design, fabric purchasing, cutting, sewing, trimming, packaging, and distribution. Typically,
a full package supplier will organise and coordinate: the design of the product; the approval of samples; the selection,
purchasing and production of materials; the completion of production; and, in some cases, the delivery of the finished
product to the final customer.
Garnetting: a type of carding process employed to open up waste fibres and yarns for subsequent recycling.
Gatt: General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade, a multinational trade organisation established in 1947 and based
in Geneva, Switzerland. Gatt was superseded by the World Trade Organization (WTO) in 1995.
Gauge: the number of needles per unit length (usually 1 inch) along a needle bed or needle bar or flat knitting
machine. For circular knitting machines, the unit length is the circumference of the needle cylinder.
Gauze: a lightweight open texture fabric produced in a plain weave or a simple leno woven fabric.
Generalised System of Preferences (GSP): a system of tariff preferences operated by developed countries. The
EUs scheme, introduced in 1971, was designed to foster the development of developing countries by granting them
easier access to the EU market. Beneficiary countries granted GSP treatment were not required to contribute anything
in return.
Geotextile: a permeable textile cloth used in contact with soil or rock as part of a civil engineering operation.
Grey cloth: Grey cloth, also known as loom-state cloth or greige cloth, is a fabric in the condition in which it leaves
the loom or knitting machine, ie before any bleaching, dyeing or finishing treatment has been given to it.
Gilet: a waist- or hip-length garment, usually sleeveless, fastening up the front; sometimes made from a quilted
fabric, and designed to be worn over a blouse or shirt.
Gimped yarn: a yarn similar to boucl in which the effect component is wrapped around the core yarn either tightly
or loosely according to the amount of excess delivery and the doubling twist inserted. Generally speaking, boucl
yarns exhibit an irregular pattern of semi-circular loops and sigmoid spirals whereas gimp yarns display fairly regular
semi-circular projections.
Gingham: a plain-weave lightweight fabric, usually made of cotton, with small checks.
Grading (in garment manufacture): a process of adjusting the size of each pattern piece to fit different body sizes.
Grandrelle: a two-ply yarn composed of single yarns of different colours or contrasting lustre.
Greige: a term used to describe textile products prior to bleaching, dying or finishing. Some greige textiles may,
however, contain dyed or finished yarns.
Grinning: a flaw in a fabric, especially a ribbed fabric, that occurs either when warp threads show through the
covering weft threads or when the threads have slipped, leaving open spaces on either side.
Grosgrain: a plain-weave fabric with a rib in the weft direction, the rib being more pronounced than in a taffeta.
Guipure: a lace construction produced by embroidering a thread pattern onto a fabric, the fabric being
subsequently removed by chemical or other means to leave an open work lace.
Habotai: a lightweight silk fabric commonly used for linings, hangings and underwear.
Hand scraping: a process in which dyed denim fabric is rubbed with sand paper to impart a worn look to its surface.
Hank: an unsupported coil comprising wraps of yarn (or sliver) made by winding the yarn on a reeling machine
with a cross-wound pattern and then binding it to prevent tangling.
Hank dyeing: the process of dyeing a yarn in hank form; hank dyeing is used where the yarn must preserve a fuller
handle and bulk in order to obtain the desired effect in a knitted garment.
Harris tweed: a woollen tweed fabric woven on handlooms by crofters in the Outer Hebrides in Scotland. Harris
tweed is traditionally woven 75 cm wide but modern handlooms can produce 150 cm width fabric.
Heald: a steel wire or strip with an eye in the centre, or a similar device through which a warp yarn is threaded. The
heald enables the yarn to be raised or lowered during weaving to create a shed.
Heald shaft: a frame in which a large number of healds are mounted. Typically a loom contains two or more heald
shafts, depending upon the complexity of the weave pattern required. The heald shaft is raised or lowered by means
of cams or a dobby mechanism to form a shed and to create different weave patterns.
Hemp: a light-coloured, strong bast fibre obtained from the hemp plant Cannabis sativa.
Hollow spindle system: a system of yarn formation in which sliver or roving is drafted and the drafted twistless
strand is wrapped with a yarn as it passes through a rotating hollow spindle. The binder or wrapping yarn is mounted
on the hollow spindle and is unwound and wrapped around the core by rotation of the spindle. The technique may
be used for producing a range of wrap spun yarns or fancy yarns.
Honeycomb: a fabric structure in which the warp and weft threads form ridges and hollows, so as to give a cellular
appearance.
Hopsack: a modification of a plain weave in which two or more ends or picks weave as one.
Hydroentanglement: a process for bonding a nonwoven fabric by using high pressure water jets to intermingle
the fibres.
Hydrophilic: a term used to describe a material which tends to mix with or to be wetted by water.
Hydrophobic: a term used to describe a material which tends to repel or not to be wetted by water.
Hydrostatic head: a way of describing the pressure applied to a material in terms of the height of an equivalent
column of water. Because the pressure exerted is determined solely by the height of the column, it is possible to use
this figure to quantify how waterproof a fabric is. For example, a fabric which can withstand a hydrostatic head of
one metre will resist the passage of water until the pressure of the water exceeds this value.
Ikat: a traditional technique resulting in a streaky effect, created by tying and dyeing lengths of yarn before weaving.
Industrial textiles: a category of technical textiles used as part of an industrial process, or incorporated into final
products.
Intarsia: a motif design knitted in solid colours into a weft knitted fabric.
Interlock fabric: an interlock fabric is a double faced rib-based weft knitted structure consisting of two 1x1 rib
fabrics joined by interlocking sinker groups. It is made on machines equipped with two sets of opposed needles. This
type of fabric has a bulky and soft handle and is used for making mens and womens T-shirts and also for producing
furnishings.
Intermingled yarn: a multifilament yarn in which cohesion is imparted to the filament bundle by entwining the
filaments instead of, or in addition to, twisting. The effect is usually achieved by passing the yarn under light tension
through the turbulent zone of an air-jet.
Intumescent system (flame retardancy): a flame retardant system which undergoes charring and foaming upon
thermal degradation (for example, when exposed to an ignition source such as a flame). A blown protective cellular
char is formed on the surface of the textile, providing protection from heat and flame.
Islands-in-the-sea: a type of bicomponent yarn in which one component polymer is formed, during extrusion, as
longitudinal strands within the matrix of a second polymer.
Jacquard: a description of techniques used for knitting and weaving to obtain large-scale and/or figured designs
(named after the inventor, Joseph Marie Jacquard, 1752-1834). Jacquard looms are fitted with harnesses which
facilitate control over individual warp threads, rather than groups of warp threads as in the case of non-jacquard
looms. Consequently, jacquard looms are capable of weaving much more complex and sophisticated patterns than
are possible using dobby machines.
Javanese: a viscose cloth made from a spun weft and filament warp, characterised by a dull sheen.
Joint venture: a joint undertaking of a new, usually risky business in, for example, a developing country or in
Eastern Europe.
Judo: a structured cloth constructed in varieties of piqu weave and usually made in cotton.
Jute: a fibre obtained from the bast layer of the plants Corchorus capsularis and Corchorus olitorius.
Kaftan: an oriental garment consisting of a long under-tunic tied at the waist by a girdle.
Kemp: coarse, white, dead animal-hair mixed with animal fibre which shows up in a finished yarn or fabric as a
lighter colour.
Knop: a bunch of fibres appearing along the length of a yarn, giving a spot effect.
Lace: fine open-work fabric with a mesh ground upon which patterns are worked.
Lawn (fabric): a plain weave textile which was originally made from linen but is now made chiefly from cotton.
The fabric is designed using fine, high count yarns, which results in a silky, untextured feel. The term lawn is also
used in the textile industry to refer to a type of starched crisp finish given to a cloth product. The finish can be
applied to a variety of fine printed or plain fabrics (see also tana lawn).
Lay: lengths of fabric, several plies high, which have been spread on a cutting table ready for cutting. The fabric
is subsequently cut in accordance with a cutting plan which is usually designed to optimise materials utilisation.
Laying-up: the process of spreading lengths of fabric on a cutting table to make a lay.
Lay plan: a plan in garment making of the lay height, lay length, colour mix, selection of fabric pieces to be cut,
and the batches from which the fabric is to be used.
Leaching: the removal of a substance (such as a dyestuff) by a liquid which is in contact with the substance.
Leno-mesh: a fabric in which warp threads have been made to cross one another between picks during leno
weaving.
Leno weaving: a form of weaving in which warp threads are made to cross one another between weft insertions.
Linear density: the weight per unit length of a yarn or fibre. Units of linear density include decitex and denier.
Liquor ratio: the ratio between the mass of liquor employed in a wet processing treatment and the mass of fibrous
material treated.
Loden: a thick heavy waterproof woollen cloth which is used to make garments, especially coats.
LOI (limiting oxygen index): a measure of flammability; the level of oxygen in the oxygen/nitrogen atmosphere
(expressed as a percentage) that must be present before a fibre will ignite and burn when exposed to flame.
Looper: an eyed stitch-forming element which carries an under thread or a cover thread on some types of sewing
machine.
Lurex: the brand name for a yarn with a metallic appearance, made by the company Lurex. The word is also used
by the trade as a generic description.
Lyocell: the generic name given to a relatively new family of cellulosic fibres and yarns which have been produced
by solvent spinning. The process is widely regarded as being environmentally-friendly, and the product offers a
number of advantages over traditional cellulosic fibres.
Madras check: a colour-woven cotton fabric designed in colourful checks and usually associated with typical cotton
checks from Madras in India.
Maguey (Agave americana): (also known as the Century Plant) an agave originally from Mexico but now cultivated
worldwide The leaves of the plant yield fibres, known as pita, which are suitable for making rope, matting and coarse
cloth. They are also used for the embroidery of leather in a technique known as piteado.
Mako cotton: very fine cotton spun from extra long staple Egyptian fibre.
Man-made fibre: a fibre which is manufactured rather than occurring naturally. Man-made fibres can be further
divided into: cellulosic or artificial fibres, which are made from naturally occurring polymers such as wood pulp;
and synthetic fibres, which are made from chemically derived polymers.
Man-made filaments: filaments which are manufactured and which do not occur in nature.
Maquiladoras: plants, common in Mexico and other Latin American countries, which process and assemble
components or part-assembled goods made in the USA or another country and return the finished products to the
USA or elsewhere for final sale. Usually, maquiladoras are in-bond assembly plants, which means that incoming
goods can be freely imported without being liable to customs duty.
Marker (in garment manufacture): a plan of pattern pieces from which the cloth will be cut. Effectively it is the
final jigsaw of all the pattern pieces to be cut in a particular lay.
Market capitalisation: a measure of company size, calculated by multiplying the number of shares which a
company has issued by the current market price.
Marl yarn: a yarn, usually woollen-spun, consisting of two or more single ends of different colours twisted together.
(See also Grandrelle.)
Masterbatch: a concentrated blend of pigments, additives and/or fillers in a base polymer. Masterbatch is added
in small amounts to a large volume of material which is same as, or is compatible with, the base polymer to produce
the desired formulation.
mcd/m2: millicandela per m2. The candela is the SI (Systme International) unit for luminous intensity.
Mlange: a yarn produced from coloured printed tops or slivers. It is indistinguishable from a mixture yarn in that
each fibre carries more than one colour.
Meltblown: part of a production route for making nonwovens; extruded synthetic filaments are sucked by high
pressure air jets from the die to form random length, very fine fibres which are deposited on to a belt.
Melt flow index: an indication of the viscosity of molten polymer. The index serves to indicate the flow
characteristics of a melt under given temperature and pressure conditions.
Melt spinning: the conversion of molten polymer into filaments by extrusion through a spinneret and subsequent
cooling of the extrudate.
Mercerisation: a treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali, in which fibres are swollen and stretched to
increase lustre in the finished product.
Merino wool: wool from the Merino sheep, with a mean fibre diameter generally of 24 microns or less.
Metallo-plastic: a yarn made from a synthetic or plastic material with a metallic appearance.
MFA: Multi-Fibre Arrangementa special protocol agreed by members of Gatt as derogation from normal Gatt
rules. The MFA, which ran from 1974 to 1994, established a framework for individual pairs of Gatt member
countries to negotiate bilateral agreements with a view to establishing quantitative restraints (quotas) on textile and
clothing trade between the two partners. Normal Gatt rules insist that all Gatt parties are to be treated equally (see
MFN). On January 1, 1995, the MFA was superseded by the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC).
MFN: most favoured nation: a basic principle of the World Trade Organization (WTO) which requires countries
to treat imports from one WTO member no less favourably than imports from another WTO member.
Microfibre: a fibre or filament with a linear density of less than 1.0 decitex. Some commercial fibres or filaments
as coarse as 1.3 decitex are classified as microfibres by their producers.
Microfilament: a continuous filament with a linear density of less than 1.0 decitex. Some commercial filaments
as coarse as 1.3 decitex are classified as microfilaments by their producers.
Micronaire value: a measurement of cotton fibre quality. The micronaire value is a function of fibre fineness and
maturity: low values indicate fine and/or immature fibres, whereas high values indicate coarse and/or mature fibres.
The micronaire value is determined in practice by measuring the resistance to air flow of a specified mass of fibres
(in the form of a plug) confined in a chamber of a specified volume.
Milling: a process in which wool and other animal fibre fabrics are compacted by wetting them and putting them
through a rotary milling machine.
Mock leno: a woven structure which imitates the appearance of leno weaves, ie it has an open structure.
Modal: a type of cellulosic fibre which has improved strength and modulus when wet.
Modulus: a measure of the ability of a fibre to resist extension. Normally measured as the ratio of the stress (or
load) applied on a yarn or filament to the elongation (strain) resulting from the application of that stress.
Moir: a rippled effect created by applying heat and heavy pressure by means of rollers on a ribbed or corded
fabric. Where not deliberately introduced as part of a design, moir effects are caused by faults in the fabric and have
the appearance of wavy lines.
Moisture vapour transfer rate (MVTR): the rate at which a fabric allows moisture vapour to pass through to the
outside air in a given amount of time
Moleskin: a thick cotton fabric, originally uncut corduroy having a very high weft sett, which is piece-dyed and
given a smooth raised finish to simulate the fur of a mole.
Mordant: a substance, usually a metallic compound, applied to a substrate to form a complex with a dye, which is
retained by the substrate more firmly than the dye itself.
Moulin: a type of two-colour twist yarn which gives a mottled effect in fabric.
Mousseline: a general term for very fine, semi-opaque fabricsfiner than muslinsmade of silk, wool or cotton.
Multicompartment fibres: fibres formed from multicomponent (or conjugate) fibres by separately extruding
fibres of different polymers. While still in the molten state, the fibres are combined and blown with fluid jets. This
produces vortices within the fibre. As the fibre is drawn, the vortices can, under the right conditions, be converted
to hollow structures running along the length of the fibre. The compartments so formed may lie side by side within
the composite fibre or contained within it in an annular structure.
Multicomponent fibres and yarns: a yarn having two or more different continuous filament components (see also
multicompartment fibres and yarns and bicomponent fibres and yarns).
Napped: a fabric which has been treated to give a soft or fuzzy surface (nap) usually by brushing.
Ne: a unit denoting English cotton count, and an indirect (length per unit weight) measure of linear density. The
Ne value is the number of 840 yd lengths of yarn weighing 1 lb.
Needlepunching: a process for making a nonwoven textile in which a continuous mat of randomly laid fibres or
filaments is entangled with barbed needles. This causes matting and the production of a felt textile.
Nep: a small knot of entangled fibres commonly regarded as a fault but sometimes introduced as an effect.
Nip: a line or area of contact or proximity between two contiguous surfaces which move so as to compress and/or
control the velocity of textile material passed between them.
Nm: a unit denoting metric count, an indirect (length per unit weight) measure of linear density. The metric count
is the number of 1 km lengths of yarn weighing 1 kg.
Nonwoven: (according to ISO 9092:1988) a manufactured sheet, web or batt of directionally or randomly
orientated fibres, bonded by friction and/or cohesion and/or adhesion, excluding paper and products which are
woven, knitted, tufted, stitchbonded incorporating binding yarns or filaments, or felted by wet-milling, whether
or not additionally needled.
OBM: original brand manufacturing. See also original design manufacturing (ODM) and original equipment
manufacturing (OEM).
ODM: original design manufacturing. See also original brand manufacturing (OBM) and original equipment
manufacturing (OEM).
Ombr: a term used to describe fabrics with a dyed, printed or woven design in which the colour is graduated from
light to dark and often into stripes of varying shades.
Open-end spinning: a spinning system in which sliver feedstock is highly drafted and thus creates an open end
or break in the fibre flow. The fibres are subsequently assembled on the end of a rotating yarn and twisted in.
Techniques for collecting and twisting the fibres into a yarn include rotor spinning and friction spinning.
Organdie: a plain-weave fabric of light weight and with a permanent stiff finish.
Organzine: a silk yarn used for weaving or knitting. The yarn comprises single threads which are twisted, folded
two-, three- or four-fold, and finally twisted in the direction opposite to that of the single yarn.
Original brand manufacturing (OBM): a business model which focuses on branding rather than on design
(original design manufacturingODM) or manufacturing (original equipment manufacturingOEM).
Original design manufacturing (ODM): a business model which focuses on design rather than on branding
(original brand manufacturingOBM) or manufacturing (original equipment manufacturingOEM).
Original equipment manufacturing (OEM): a business model which focuses on the manufacturing process rather
than on design (original design manufacturingODM) or branding (original brand manufacturingOBM).
In the clothing industry, OEMs typically manufacture according to customer specifications and in many cases use
raw materials supplied or specified by the customer.
Outward processing: a procedure whereby a company based in one country exports material to another country
for additional processing, and then reimports the processed products for further treatment, for domestic distribution,
or for re-export. The most common form of outward processing involves the exporting of fabric from a high cost
country to a low cost country for assembly or part-assembly into garments.
Oxford: a plain-weave shirting of good quality yarns that has two warp ends weaving as one.
Padding (finishing): the impregnation of a substrate with a liquor or paste followed by squeezingusually by
passing the substrate through a nipto leave a specific quantity of liquor or paste on the substrate.
Pann: a satin-faced velvet or silk fabric with a high lustre which is achieved by finishing.
Partially oriented yarn (POY): a continuous filament yam made by extruding a synthetic polymer so that a
substantial degree of molecular orientation is present in the resulting filaments, but further molecular orientation
is possible. The resulting yarn will usually require a positive draw ratio in subsequent processing in order to orient
the molecular structure fully and optimise the yarns tensile properties.
PBT: polybutylterephthalate, a type of polyester used as an engineering plastic and, for specialist uses, in the form
of a fibre.
Peachskin: the term used to describe the soft surface of certain textiles which feels like, and has the appearance of,
the skin of a peach.
Pepper and salt: a fabric with a speckled effect, often black and white.
Pigment dyeing: a process used to give garments a characteristic washed out or weathered look, while offering
good light- and wash-fastness and reasonable crocking (wet-rub) resistance. By their nature, pigments produce
garments which change and age over time as they are washed. Unlike dyes, pigments are insoluble in water and are
milled into a paste for garment dyeing or printing. The addition of anionic dispersing agents induces a slight negative
charge on the surface of the pigment particles and, if the fibre has been treated to give it a positive charge, a polar
bond is formed. The process is completed when a resinous binder is applied to lock the pigment in place.
Alternatively, pigments such as Indigo can be reduced to a water-soluble or leuco form which may be used to dye
fabrics in the same manner as dyestuffs. Once the dyeing stage is completed the material is exposed to air and this
regenerates the pigment that is trapped inside the fibres. Surplus pigment is removed from the fibre surface by
washing in a slurry of an abrasive material such as Fullers Earth in a process known as fulling. This has been the
method used traditionally on worsted mens suitings and, in recent years, on cotton denim for blue jeans.
Piqu (woven): a woven cloth showing rounded cords in the weft direction with sunken lines between them.
Placement print: a fabric printed with a single motif, such as a portrait head, for display on a particular part of a
garment, as opposed to a fabric printed with a repeat pattern.
Plating: a process for making a knitted fabric from two yarns of different propertiesone on the face of the fabric,
the other on the back.
Pliss: a French term, meaning pleated, which is applied to fabrics with a puckered or crinkled effect.
Polymer: a long molecule made up of many smaller repeat molecules; the following polymers are the main ones
used to make synthetic fibres:
polyacrylic;
polyamide (nylon);
polyester;
polypropylene; and
polyurethane.
Polymerise: the process of linking small chemical units together to form larger molecules.
Polynosic: a type of cellulosic fibre characterised by a high wet modulus of elasticity. When sanded or raised,
fabrics made from this fibre have the soft, peachskin surface found in washed silks.
Polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT): a polymer used in the manufacture of fibres and textiles with stretch
properties, including those developed by Toray Industries and known as 3GT.
Popcorn: a fabric which has undergone a special finishing technique to give it a texture resembling fluffy kernels
of popcorn.
Poplin: a plain-weave cotton-type fabric with weftways ribs and a high warp sett.
Prepreg: an assembly of fibres impregnated with resin that has been prepared for preforming into a composite
shape; a subsequent curing process is used to set the resin and form the composite.
Prince of Wales: a large-scale check, typified by a reversing effect ground with an overcheck.
Product-specific safeguard: (see also safeguards, textile safeguard) a measure available to a member of the
World Trade Organization (WTO) which enables it to protect its market from import surges of particular products
from China which cause market disruption. The measure is applicable to any type of product (industrial and
agricultural goods) and will remain available for use by WTO members until December 11, 2013.
Progressive bundle system: a system traditionally employed in apparel production where the task of assembling
the garment is broken down into small operations, and bundles of work are progressed down the production line
through each operation in sequence until the assembly process is complete (see also unit production system).
Qiviut: hair from the musk ox. Qiviut is finer and more expensive than cashmere.
Radio frequency identification (RFID) systems: radio frequency identification (RFID) systems provide a method
to automatically identify and locate manufactured products over distances of up to several hundred metres. They rely
on storing and remotely retrieving data from electronic tags using devices which can transmit and pick up data via
radio waves. The systems usually comprise a universal infrastructure which consists of electronic readers, tags and
radio-frequency identification management computer software.
Ramie: a bast fibre similar to flax, the fibre used for making linen textiles.
Ratin: a cloth with a rough surface, which has been achieved by finishing and/or the use of fancy yarns.
Rayon: a term used to describe fibres made from regenerated cellulose. (See also viscose, modal and acetate.)
Real twist: twist inserted in a yarn through the rotation of a yam end (as in uptwisting or downtwisting) or the
repeated passage of a thread loop around an end, as in two-for-one twisting.
Redox: a type of chemical reaction in which one of the reagents is reduced, while another is oxidised.
Reed: a device consisting of several wires closely set which separate warp threads in a loom. The reed determines
the spacing of the warp threads, guides the weft carrying device, and beats up the weft against the fell of the cloth.
Regain: the ratio of the weight of water in a material to the oven-dry weight of the material.
Resin: see prepreg, composite; also used as another word for polymer.
Resist treatment: a treatment applied to part of a fabric which causes the area treated to resist the take-up of dye.
Retting (flax): the subjection of a crop of flax or deseeded flax straw to chemical or biological treatment in order
to make fibre bundles more easily separable from the woody part of the stem. (See also decortication.)
Ribbon yarns: yarns that are woven or knitted in the form of a ribbon.
Rib fabric: a knitted fabric with a rib pattern. Depending upon the usage, the pattern can be altered to exhibit
different rib effects. Rib fabric is used mainly in round necks and cuffs for certain types of T-shirts. It is also used
for making undergarments.
Ring spun: a spinning system in which twist is inserted in a yarn by using a revolving traveller. This method gives
a tighter twist than the more modern, faster and usually cheaper open-end spinning process.
Rinses: washing processes during which denim fabric is desized, rinsed and softened. Rinsing provides fabrics with
a softer handle but does not discolour them.
Rotor spinning: a method of open-end spinning which uses a rotor (a high speed centrifuge) to collect and twist
individual fibres into a yarn.
Roving: a collection of relatively fine fibrous strands used in the later or final processes of preparation for spinning.
Safeguard: (see also textile safeguard, product-specific safeguard) a measure available to a member of the World
Trade Organization (WTO), enabling it to restrict imports of a product temporarily (take safeguard action) under
Article XIX of the WTO if its domestic industry is injured or threatened with serious injury caused by a surge in
imports. An import surge justifying safeguard action can be a real increase in imports (an absolute increase), or
it can be an increase in the share of imports in a shrinking market, even if the import quantity has not increased
(relative increase). Industries or companies may request safeguard action by their government. A safeguard measure
should not last more than four years, although this can be extended up to eight years. Measures imposed for more
than a year must be progressively liberalised. An exporting country can retaliate against the imposition of a safeguard
against it by, for instance, raising tariffs on exports from the country which is enforcing the safeguard measure.
Sandwash: the soft peachskin finish obtained by blasting a fabric with fine sand.
Sanforizing: a controlled compressive shrinkage process. The word Sanforized is a registered trade mark and can
be used to describe fabrics which meet defined and approved standards of washing shrinkage.
Satin weave: a warp-faced fabric with binders arranged to produce a smooth surface.
Schappe silk yarns: spun silk yarns which have not been degummed through a fermentation process. Up to 10%
of gum may remain on the fibre prior to spinning.
Scouring: the treatment of textiles in aqueous or other solutions in order to remove natural fats, waxes, proteins and
other constituents, as well as dirt, oil and other impurities.
Scutching (flax): the operation of separating the woody part of deseeded or retted flax straw.
Seasonless solids: basic colours which do not change from season to season, including black, white and navy.
Seersucker: a fabric characterised by the presence of puckered areas contrasted by flat areas, usually in stripes along
the length of the cloth.
Sett: a term used to define the weft or warp density of a woven fabric, usually in terms of the number of threads
per centimetre.
Shantung: a silk fabric similar to pongee, but heavier, which was originally woven in wild silk from Shantung,
China.
Shape memory polymers (SMPs): chemical compounds which have one form at a certain temperature, which can
be given a different shape when subjected to a stimulus such as heat, and which, under certain conditions, can return
to their original memorised form. Current textile research is focused on using shape memory polymers to create
smart fabrics with protective and moisture management capabilities.
Shed: an opening formed during weaving by raising some warp threads and lowering others to facilitate the passage
of a weft yarn or a weft carrying device across the weaving machine.
Shepherds check: a small check effect in contrasting colours, often black and white.
Shetland: a wool yarn or fabric with a soft yet firm handle, plain dyed or in mixture shades.
Shin gosen: fabrics made from ultra-fine polyester filament yarns with enhanced comfort, handle, drape and
aesthetics. Shin gosen fabrics are designed specifically to appeal to end users by employing a combination of
sophisticated fibre and fabric processing technologies.
Shirring: making puckers or gathers in a fabric, often by using elasticated thread in parallel rows.
Shives (flax): short pieces of woody waste beaten from flax straw during scutching.
Shot: a colour effect seen in a fabric woven with a warp of one colour and a weft of a contrasting colour.
Silicone softeners: softeners applied to improve the softness and handle of a fabric. Silicone softeners work by
filling in irregularities in the fibre surface and thereby make surfaces feel and appear smoother. This, in turn, enables
the fibres to slip easily past one another and prevent fibres sticking together.
Single knitted fabric: a fabric produced by knitting a single yarn continuously. In this type of fabric, the face and
the back show different patterns.
Sinker: a sinker is a blade which works in conjunction with knitting needles, and assists with loop formation and
holding a fabric down.
Sirospun yarns: worsted ply yarns spun on a slightly modified ring-spinning frame, which creates the yarns
directly from two rovings. In forming the yarns, the spinning frame twists the two rovings together, thereby holding
the fibres in place. The process, developed in Australia, eliminates the step of forming two separate single yarns.
Size: a substance applied to warp yarns (but also sometimes to weft yarns) prior to weaving in order to protect the
yarns from abrasion, to strengthen them, and to lubricate them.
Snarl yarns: yarns which are so highly twisted that they curl back on themselves into knots and snarls, like twisted
strands of elastic.
Soleiado: a term, originally the name of a company, used to describe a Provenal print.
Spandex: the generic name used in the USA to denote elastane fibre.
Spin drawing: a process for spinning partially or highly oriented filaments in which the spinning and drawing
processes are integrated sequential stages. Most of the orientation in spin drawing is introduced between the first
forwarding device and the take-up.
Spin draw yarn (SDY): yarn produced by the spin drawing method.
Spinneret: a nozzle or plate provided with fine holes or slits through which a fibre-forming solution or melt is
extruded during fibre manufacture.
Spinning solution: a solution of fibre-forming polymer ready for extrusion through a spinneret.
Spunbond: nonwovens made from a continuous mat of randomly laid filaments. The filaments are bonded together
by heat and pressure or needlepunching.
Spunmelt: a nonwoven structure made by extruding molten polymer through spinnerets to form fibres. Spunmelt
processes are used in the manufacture of spunbond nonwovens, meltblown nonwovens and combinations of the two.
Standard minute: the amount of effort expended in one minute by the average worker, suited and accustomed to
his or her task, working at normal speed under normal conditions, with due allowance for fatigue resulting from the
effort expended. A standard minute corresponds to the productivity to be expected from an average worker for a
guaranteed minimum wage without financial incentives.
Standard performance: the rate of output which qualified workers will naturally achieve without over-exertion as
an average over the working day or shift provided they know and adhere to the specified method and provided they
are motivated to apply themselves to their work. This performance is denoted as 100 on the standard rating and
performance scales.
Staple fibres (man-made): man-made fibres of predetermined short lengths, usually prepared by cutting or
breaking filaments of the material into lengths suitable for their intended processing route.
Stitchbonding: a process in which a series of interlooped stitches are inserted along the length of a pre-formed
fabric, an array of cross-laid yarns or a fibre web. Proprietary systems include Arachne, Malipol and Maliwatt.
Stone washing: a washing process in which jeans are put into a machine with a perforated drum, pumice stone is
added, and the jeans are then tumbled in the machine. Stone washing creates a worn look on the surface of the fabric
and imparts a soft handle.
Striated: an effect applied to a yarn to give the appearance of striationslines of colour or fine parallel scratches
or grooves, as on the surface of a rock over which a glacier has flowed.
Subcontracting: an arrangement whereby one business (subcontractor) manufactures all or part of a specific product
on behalf of another business (main contractor) in accordance with plans and technical specifications supplied by
the main contractor. The main contractor has final economic responsibility in such an arrangement.
Sublimation: a process in which a substance is changed directly from a solid into a gas or vapour without first
melting.
Substantivity: the attraction between a fibre and a substance (such as a chemical finish) under conditions whereby
the substance is selectively extracted by the fibre from the application medium (for example, water).
Surfactant (surface active agent): a molecule which, when added to a liquid at low concentration, changes the
properties of that liquid at a surface or interface. Surfactants are used in cleaners and detergents to: improve wetting
and spreading; provide detergency by solubilising and suspending soils; produce, modify or control foam; emulsify
and disperse substances such as silicone wax; couple or compatibilise formulation components; and modify viscosity.
Synthetic fibres: man-made fibres made from a polymer that has been produced artificially, in contrast to fibres
made from naturally occurring polymers such as cellulose. The term synthetic fibres is also used to refer to
synthetic filaments.
Synthetic filaments: man-made filaments made from a polymer that has been produced artificially, in contrast
to filaments made from naturally occurring polymers such as cellulose.
Tacking (jeans): a process which is used to make fold marks in jeans. Sections of the jeans are folded and then fixed
using plastic tags which are inserted using tag guns. After washing, the tags are removed from the jeans.
Taffeta: a closely woven, plain-weave fabric with a crisp handle and a smooth surface.
Tana lawn: a cool, crisp, fine cotton fabric. It is named after Lake Tana in Sudan, from where Liberty sourced the
yarn when it first introduced the fabric after the First World War.
Tape yarn: a yarn used for knitwear in the form of a tape with a large width-to-thickness ratio. Such yarns are
typically formed by weaving or knitting. Knitted tape yarns are often made on circular knitting machines, giving them
a tubular cross-section.
Tapestry: a closely woven figured fabric with a compound structure in which a pattern is developed by the use of
coloured yarns in the warp or in the weft or both. A fine binder warp and weft may be incorporated. The fabric is
woven on jacquard looms and is normally used for upholstery.
Tartan: a fabric, originally a woollen 2/2 twill worn by Scottish Highlanders, woven in checks of various colours.
Technical textiles: textile materials and products manufactured primarily for their technical performance and
functional properties rather than their aesthetic or decorative characteristics. End uses include aerospace, industrial,
marine, medical, military, safety and transport textiles, and geotextiles.
Tenacity: a unit used to measure the strength of a fibre or yarn, usually calculated by dividing the breaking force
by the linear density.
Tencel: a brand name used by Lenzing for a recently developed cellulosic fibre which is generically known as
lyocell. Tencel, originally developed by Courtaulds, is stronger than viscose cellulosic fibre and is characterised
by its softness and drape.
Tex: a measure of linear density; the weight in grams of 1,000 metres of fibre or yarn.
Textile safeguard: Under the terms of Chinas accession to the World Trade Organization (WTO), a special
safeguard provision is available to members of the WTO for restricting imports of Chinese textile and apparel
products in the event of market disruption due to increased imports. In general, any export restraint imposed may
not last longer than one year unless it is reapplied through further consultations, or otherwise agreed to by China and
the WTO member. The special textile safeguard mechanism will be applicable until the end of 2008.
Textured yarn: a continuous filament yarn that has been processed to introduce durable crimps, coils, loops or
other fine distortions along the lengths of the filaments.
Thermal bonding: part of a production route for making nonwovens in which a web, which must contain some
meltable synthetic fibres, is heated by a hot gas or by calendering. The fibres melt and form inter-fibre bonds.
Third-country fabric provision: also referred to as the special apparel provision. See Agoa.
Tinting (denim): a process used to overdye pre-dyed denim with a tinting dye to give the correct shade of blue
required. Tinting can also be used to treat fabric with a pale blue tinting dye in order to improve the whiteness of
any undyed parts. This process is often carried out as an alternative to using a fluorescent whitening agent to improve
the whiteness of undyed material.
Toile de Jouy: classic designs originally created in the 1760s for the French court by textile designers in the town
of Jouy en Josas.
Top: sliver which forms the starting material for the worsted and other drawing systems. Tops are usually formed
by combing, or by the cutting or controlled breaking of continuous filament man-made fibres and the assembly
of the resultant staple fibres into sliver.
Tow: the name given to an untwisted assembly of a large number of filaments; tows are cut up to produce staple
fibres.
Trashed denim: denim which has been given a highly distressed effect by cutting through the warp yarns on the
surface of the fabric to reveal the white weft yarns underneath.
Tree bark: the visual effect of tree bark created in a fabric weave.
Tricotine: a weft-face woven fabric, originally with a cotton warp and worsted weft, which displays a fine, flat
twill line.
Tricot, warp knitted: a warp knitted fabric knitted with two full sets of warp threads, each set making a 1 and 1
lapping movement but in opposite directions. Additionally the term is now used generically to cover all types of
warp knitted fabric made on tricot warp knitting machines.
Tricot warp knitting machine: a warp knitting machine using bearded or compound needles mounted vertically,
or nearly so, in which the fabric is supported and controlled by sinkers. The fabric is removed from the knitting point
at approximately 90E to the needles movement (nearer the horizontal than the vertical).
Tweed: originally, a coarse, heavyweight, rough surfaced wool fabric for outerwear, woven in Scotland. The term
is now applied to fabrics made in a wide range of weights and qualities, generally from woollen spun yarns.
Twill: a fabric produced by constructing a weave that repeats on three or more warp threads and weft threads, and
produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric.
Unit production systems: an advanced apparel manufacturing system in which a single garment is progressed
through a sequence of operations. Using a unit production system, a garment is automatically transported via a
computer-controlled overhead hanging system, which has been ergonomically designed to reduce the amount of
handling of the garment (see also progressive bundle system).
Uptwisting: a system of twisting one or more yarns by withdrawing them over-end from a rotating package.
Uptwisting forms the second stage in two-stage twisting.
Velvet: a cut warp pile fabric in which the cut fibrous ends of yarn form the surface of the fabric.
Venetian fabric: a lightweight wool or worsted fabric in a satin or twill weave. In some cases the fabric is napped.
Viloft: a brand name for a viscose fibre with a hollow cross-section which offers softness, extra bulk and
absorbency.
Viscose: the generic name for a type of cellulosic fibre or cellulosic filament obtained by the viscose process.
Waffle: a figured structure based on the piqu weave, which is often associated with the appearance of a
honeycomb.
Warp knitting: a method of making a knitted fabric in which the loops made from each of several warp threads
are formed substantially along the length of the fabric. Warp knitting is characterised by the fact that each warp
thread is fed more or less in line with the direction in which the fabric is produced.
Web: a sheet of fibres produced by a carding machine (carded web) or combing machine (combed web). (See also
batt.)
Weft: yarns which run across the width of a fabric (also known as filling).
Weft knitting: a method of making a knitted fabric in which the loops made by each weft thread are formed
substantially across the width of the fabric. Weft knitting is characterised by the fact that each weft thread is fed
more or less at right angles to the direction in which the fabric is produced.
Whiskering: a term used to refer to processes in which permanent three-dimensional creases and crinkles are added
to jeans. Whiskers are normally added to jeans at the tops of the legs, around the buttocks and behind the knees.
Worsted: term used to describe yarns which are spun wholly from combed wool in which the fibres are reasonably
parallel, and to describe fabrics or garments made from such yarns.
WTO: World Trade Organization, a body based in Geneva, Switzerland, which superseded the General Agreement
on Tariffs and Trade (Gatt) in 1995 following negotiations conducted between 1986 and 1993 under the Uruguay
Round of multilateral trade talks.
Yarn-dyed: a term used to describe a design or fabric which is constructed from, and coloured by means of, pre-
dyed yarns.
Index to
Textile Outlook International
No 1 September 1985 No 6 July 1986
An Important New Journal for a Rapidly Time to Lower the Barriers Against World
Changing Industry Textile Trade
Foreign Direct Investment and the Hong Kong Textile Multinational Activities in the Eastern Bloc
and Clothing Industry Fibre and Textile Industry of Eastern Europe and the
Vantona Viyella and Nottingham Manufacturing USSR
International Yarn and Fabric Cost Comparisons Why the MFA Should be Renewed
Time to Plan an End to the MFA? Evaluating Overseas Sourcing Options
Staple Yarn ManufacturingThe New Spinning Systems World Textile Trade and Production Trends
World Textile Machinery Shipments No 7 September 1986
Has Linen Reached its Peak? Towards MFA V
No 2 November 1985 Profile of the Turkish Textile Industry
Multi-Fibre Disarrangement? Fourth Multi-Fibre Arrangement
Internationalisation of the Japanese Textile Industry Profile of Coats Viyella plc
World Textile Trade and Production Trends Why the Developing Countries Deserve a Fairer Deal
Multi-Fibre ArrangementThe Case for Renewal High Technology in the Clothing Industry
Australias Protection System Up for Review No 8 November 1986
Profile of Courtaulds plc Survival Through Specialisation, High Added
Fire Barriers in Aircraft Seats Value and High Technology
Yarn and Fabric OutlookA Textile Agents View Polypropylene FibresA Growth Market
No 3 January 1986 World Textile Trade and Production Trends
MFA Conference, Brussels MFA IVThe US Textile Industry Response
Multinational Activity in the Mediterranean Rim A Market and Financial Profile of Courtaulds Fibres
Role of Spain and Portugal in an Enlarged European Luxury Fibres
Textile Community No 9 January 1987
The MFA and its Alternatives UK Imports Up As a New MFA Begins
Survival Strategies for the US Textile Fibre-Apparel Internationalisation of the US Textile Industry
Pipeline Profiles of Seven Leading Brazilian Textile Companies
An Analysis of Textile Patents MFA IV Bilaterals and the European Community
Licensing LegendsMurjanis Strategy for Apparel Profile of the Belgian Textile and Clothing Industry
Marketing in the Late 1980s Carpets: World Manufacture and Markets
No 4 March 1986 No 10 March 1987
MFA Developments Man-Made FibresA New Mood of
China Report Confidence
US Nonwovens Outlook Internationalisation of the West German Textile Industry
After the VetoThe US Textile Industrys Response World Textile Trade and Consumption: Forecasts to 1990
Why a UK Textile and Clothing Manufacturer Seeks Australia: A New Textiles and Clothing Protection
Liberalisation of the MFA System
Profile of the French Textile Industry Quick Response: US and UK Experiences
Putting Designers in their Place International Design Connections
No 5 May 1986 No 11 May 1987
The Relevance of the MFA in Textile Sourcing Why the UK Textile Industrys Revival Could
West European Nonwovens Industry Be Short-Lived
MFA RenewalThe European Communitys Position Internationalisation of the UK Textile Industry
Rapid Emergence of the Southern Mediterranean Textile Profile of Jamaicas Export Clothing Industry
Producers Face to Face: Alan Pedder of ICI Fibres
Profile of the French Clothing Industry Changing Patterns of UK Fabric Converting
Profiles of Bidermann SA, DMC, SFFAW-Boussac and Clothing Assembly: Automation Versus Flexibility
Prouvost
Man-Made Fibre Capacity GrowthThe Leading
Suppliers of Plant and Technology
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Home Textiles UPDATE is an executive briefing which includes details Recent issues have included information on the following:
of the latest developments and business news in the home textiles sector. Product developments and innovations
Every issue focuses on product developments and innovations in the
Anti-dust mite bedding New bedding products containing
sector. In addition, we provide a business update each month so that novel fibres
Bed and bath linen products
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Composite materials for interiors Smart textiles
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Dyes and finishing treatments for Sustainable fibres
Home Textiles UPDATE includes information on the home textiles Trend forecasts
following: Fibres, yarns and fabrics for home Wallcoverings
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