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International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06 55

Selection of Appropriate Ring Traveller Number for


Different Count of Cotton Hosiery Yarn
1
Jamal Hossen, 2 Subrata Kumar Saha
Department of Textile Engineering
Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology
141-142, Love Road, Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka-1208, Bangladesh

Abstract-- Traveller has a great impact on yarn quality respectively. Specific ring frame was selected and then any
parameters specially hairiness. Yarn quality varies due to specific 10 spindles of that frame were selected. Ten yarn cops
different traveller number. The traveller imparts twist to the were collected by using five different traveller number of
yarn and enables winding of the yarn on the cop. However, same manufacturing company (Kanai). Due to unavailability
cooperating assembly, the spindle is required for the winding of the traveller of brand name like Bracker, Carter, Reiners
operation. High contact pressure (up to 35 N/mm2) is generated
and Furst, only the Kanai brand was used. Unevenness
between the ring and traveller during winding, mainly due to
centrifugal force. This research was established according to percentage(U%), CVm%, hairiness (H), thin (-50%)/km, thick
yarn parameter of hairiness, U%, IPI, i.e. imperfection index and (+50%)/km, neps (+200%)/km were tested by Uster Tester-5.
end breakage rate per 1000 spindle-hr. It is very important for Imperfection index (IPI) was calculated and end breakage rate
the technologist to understand this and act on them to optimize (EBR) per 1000 spindle-hr also studied in each cases. Due to
the yarn production. Specific number of traveller should be used both lighter and heavier traveller end breakage rate vary and
for a particular count of yarn. quality of yarn decrease by increasing the EBR. Then test
results were analyzed for identifying suitable traveller number
Index Term-- Traveller number, carded yarn, combed yarn, for above mentioned counts.
Uster Tester, hosiery yarn.

I. INTRODUCTION
The ring and traveller combination is effectively a twisting
and winding mechanism [3]. Although it is very minute in
appearance, it plays an important role in spinning operation
[2]. Several investigations have been carried out on the
influence of the ring traveller [4]. For a given yarn count, the
longer the fibers, the fewer the number per unit length of a
given yarn count, and this is reflected in the yarn hairiness.
Consequently, there moving of short fibers by combing results
in combed yarns being much less hairy than carded yarns of
equivalent count [3]. In most cases, the limit to productivity of
the ring spinning machine is defined by the traveller in
interdependence with the ring, and yarn. The following shapes
are in use in the short-staple spinning mills: (i) C-traveller (ii)
Flat or oval traveller (iii) Elliptical traveller (iv) N-traveller
(v) SU-traveller [1]. Usually, C-traveller is used in short-staple
spinning mills. C-traveller and Kanai brand were used in this
work.

II. MATERIALS AND METHOD


Formerly in the United Kingdom, the term hosiery was used in
the generic sense of all types of knitted fabrics and goods
made up there from. Combed, super carded and carded yarns
are all used extensively for knitting [6]. In this study 26/1 Ne
and 30/1 Ne carded hosiery and 24/1 Ne and 34/1 Ne combed
hosiery yarn were made from roving of hank 0.75. For both
carded and combed yarns, twist multiplier were 3.6 and 3.5

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Comparative chart of traveller weights [5]


Table A
R+F Bracker
Carter ISO-Nr. Kanai* ISO-Nr.
Travel. No. ISO-Nr. ISO-Nr.
Lighter 15/0 14.0 15.0 22.7 16.6
14/0 15.0 16.0 24.3 18.3
13/0 16.0 17.0 26 20.0
12/0 18.0 18.0 27.5 21.6
11/0 19.0 20.0 29 23.4
10/0 20.0 22.4 31 25.0
9/0 22.4 23.6 32 26.8
8/0 23.6 25.0 34 28.5
7/0 26.5 28.0 36 30.2
6/0 30.0 31.5 39 32.2
5/0 31.5 35.5 42 35.1
4/0 35.5 40 45 38.3
3/0 40 45 49 42.2
2/0 45 50 52 48.3
1/0 50 56 58 54.6
1 60 63 65 62.2
2 71 71 71 73.6
3 80 80 78 81.0
4 85 90 84 87.7
5 95 95 91 95.3
6 106 100 104 108.8
7 112 112 117 121.8
8 125 125 130 135.9
9 140 140 149 154.4
10 160 160 168 174.8
11 180 180 194 199.0
12 200 200 214 219.8
13 224 224 233 237.8
14 236 250 253 258.7
Heavier 15 250 265 272 277.1
* Weight series of the most important types (ISO No. = traveller weight in mg)

The following testing equipments were used for this study.


Uster HVI 1000, Wrap Reel, Uster Auto Sorter, Uster Tester 5

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III. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION


Count and traveller number wise Uster test report and end breakage rate per 1000 spindle-hr for 26/1 Ne carded hosiery yarn
Table I
Thin Thick Neps EBR/
Traveller CVm
U% Hairiness (-50%) (+50%) (+200%) IPI 1000
Number %
/Km /Km /Km spindle-hr
1 10.13 12.88 5.57 0.3 66.3 91.3 157.9 55
1/0 10.09 12.98 5.32 1.0 81.8 94.0 157.9 50
2/0 10.48 13.33 5.54 1.8 86.5 103.8 192.1 61
3/0 10.54 13.35 5.49 1.9 85.7 102.9 190.5 61
4/0 10.55 13.45 5.62 1.8 87.4 104.3 193.5 64

Fig. 1. Traveller number Vs U% Fig. 2. Traveller number Vs hairiness

Fig. 3. Traveller number Vs imperfection Fig. 4. Traveller number Vs


index (IPI) EBR/1000 spindle-hr

The figure 1 to 4 show that U%, hairiness, IPI and end 26/1 Ne carded hosiery yarn, traveller number 1/0 is
breakage rate are the lowest for traveller number 1/0. With appropriate.
respect to above four quality parameters the best result is in Count and traveller number wise Uster test report and end
this traveller number. So it can be concluded that in case of breakage rate per 1000 spindle-hr for 30/1 Ne carded hosiery
yarn.

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Table II
Thin Thick Neps EBR/
Traveller CVm
U% Hairiness (-50%) (+50%) (+200%) IPI 1000
Number %
/Km /Km /Km spindle-hr
1 11.68 14.85 5.20 4.2 172.3 243.5 420.0 58
1/0 11.65 14.81 5.21 4.0 171.5 241.8 417.3 52
2/0 11.34 14.55 5.08 3.9 172.3 223.0 399.2 48
3/0 11.52 14.65 5.43 4.3 178.0 226.3 408.6 59
4/0 11.58 14.71 5.57 4.7 179.2 229.4 413.3 62

Fig. 5. Traveller number Vs U% Fig. 6. Traveller number Vs hairiness

Fig. 7. Traveller number Vs imperfection Fig. 8. Traveller number Vs


Index (IPI) EBR/1000 spindle-hr

The figure 5 to 8 show that U%, hairiness, IPI and end Count and traveller number wise Uster test report and end
breakage rate are the lowest for traveller number 2/0. With breakage rate per 1000 spindle-hr for 24/1 Ne combed hosiery
respect to above four quality parameters the best result is in yarn.
this traveller number. So it can be concluded that in case of
30/1 Ne carded hosiery yarn, traveller number 2/0 is
appropriate.

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Table III
Thin Thick Neps EBR/
Traveller CVm
U% Hairiness (-50%) (+50%) (+200%) IPI 1000
Number %
/Km /Km /Km spindle-hr
2 7.82 9.88 5.07 0.0 8.5 19.0 27.5 54
1 7.65 9.64 5.63 0.0 7.3 17.8 25.1 47
1/0 7.65 9.64 5.02 0.0 6.0 15.8 21.8 43
2/0 7.79 9.71 5.92 0.0 7.8 16.5 24.3 49
3/0 7.77 9.59 5.89 0.0 8.5 17.4 25.9 53

Fig. 9. Traveller number Vs U% Fig. 10. Traveller number Vs hairiness

Fig. 11. Traveller number Vs imperfection Fig. 12. Traveller number Vs


Index (IPI) EBR/1000 spindle-hr

The figure 9 to 12 show that U%, hairiness, IPI and end breakage rate are the lowest for traveller number 1/0. With respect to
above four quality parameters the best result is in this traveller number. So it can be concluded that in case of 24/1 Ne combed
hosiery yarn, traveller number 1/0 is appropriate.

Count and traveller number wise Uster test report and end breakage rate per 1000 spindle-hr for 34/1 Ne combed hosiery yarn

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Table IV
Thin Thick Neps EBR/
Traveller CVm
U% Hairiness (-50%) (+50%) (+200%) IPI 1000
Number %
/Km /Km /Km spindle-hr
1/0 8.99 11.48 4.78 0.0 10.4 33.7 44.1 53
2/0 9.04 11.38 4.65 0.0 10.5 32.3 42.8 52
3/0 8.95 11.27 4.52 0.3 7.0 24.0 25.0 47
4/0 8.95 11.27 4.54 0.3 9.0 25.3 34.6 54
5/0 9.98 11.35 4.54 0.5 9.9 29.6 40.0 55

Fig. 13. Traveller number Vs U% Fig. 14. Traveller number Vs hairiness

Fig. 15. Traveller number Vs imperfection Fig. 16. Traveller number Vs


index (IPI) EBR/1000 spindle-hr

The figure 13 to 16 show that U%, hairiness, IPI and end traveller number 3/0 is suitable for 34/1 Ne combed hosiery
breakage rate are the lowest for traveller number 3/0. With yarn. Because considering unevenness percentage, hairiness,
respect to above four quality parameters the best result is in imperfection index and end breakage rate per 1000 spindle-hr,
this traveller number. So it can be concluded that in case of it is clearly seen that above number of travellers are suitable
34/1 Ne combed hosiery yarn, traveller number 3/0 is for specific four different count of yarn. A spinning mill
appropriate. which is using the traveller of Kanai brand and looking for
good quality yarn should try to use above traveller number for
IV. CONCLUSION above mentioned count of yarn. Further study can be
This study shows that the traveller number 1/0 is suitable for examined by using the traveller, brand of Bracker, Carter and
26/1 Ne, traveller number 2/0 is suitable for 30/1 Ne carded Reiners and Furst for same count of carded, combed and
hosiery yarn and traveller number 1/0 is suitable for 24/1 Ne, compact cotton yarn. A comparative study can be done by

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using the different traveller number of specific brand against


same count of carded, combed and compact cotton yarn.

REFERENCES
[1] Klein W., Manual of Textile Technology The Textile Institute.
ISBN 0900739916.
[2] Pattabhiram T. K., Essential Elements of Practical Cotton
Spinning Somaiya Publications Pvt. Ltd. Mumbai, New Delhi.
Fourth Edition 1997.
[3] Lawrence, Carl A. Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data. ISBN 1-
56676-821-7 (alk. paper).
[4] I. Usta, S. Canoglu, Influence of Ring Traveller Weight and
Coating on Hairiness of Acrylic Yarns University of Marmara
Faculty of Technical Education, Department of Textile Studies,
Gztepe, 81040 Istanbul, Turkey.
[5] Technical Manual of Reiners + Furst, Rings and Travellers
Reiners + Furst GmbH u. Co. KG.
[6] Starfish Quality Control Knit, Cotton Technology International,
Manchester U.K.

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