AUGUST 2010
Est.
$
25
1879
canadian jeweller
magazine
Competition
Guidelines
Do you know what
qualifies for Made
in Canada?
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25
Ethical Tech
First-Generation
Jewellers
Why privacy is vital
for every business
Green Fever
Eco-jewellery is
here in a big way Greg and Jeff Buzbuzian of
Knar Jewellery in Guelph
PLUS:
ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
A Tradition in Excellence...
For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 120.
Siffari Jewellery Co. Limited, 55 Gervais Drive, Toronto, Ontario, M3C 1Z2
Tel: 416-441-1010 Fax: 416-441-6188 1-800-387-0111
www.siffari.com email: contact@siffari.com
Certificate
RappaporT
Symmetry
Stock #
Clarity
Colour
Weight
Polish
Shape
Depth
Table
Make
802B+4 1.22 CUSHION FIY VS1 6.67x5.63x4.02 71.4 58.0 EX G FAINT N/A GIA VG
802A+6 0.88 RADIANT FLY VS2 5.74x5.16x3.31 64.1 78.0 G G MED BLUE N/A GIA G
332+1 1.10 RBC FANCYBROwN VS2 6.67x6.69x4.02 60.2 60.0 VG VG STRONG GREEN N/A GIA VG
1014B+3 1.12 OVAL FIY VS1 6.70x5.11x4.01 78.5 54.0 VG G MED BLUE N/A GIA VG
70+1 1.75 RBC F SI2 7.73x7.78x4.73 61.0 56.2 EX G NONE -30% Hw VG
335C+1 0.92 RBC D INF 6.21x6.25x3.90 62.8 55.4 VG VG NONE -35% Hw VG
213E 1.01 RBC F I1 6.41x6.44x3.99 62.1 56.3 VG G NONE -30% Hw EX
2118+1 1.46 EMERALD D INF 8.32x5.28x3.69 69.8 68.0 VG VG NONE -20% Hw VG
696E 1.50 PRINCESS F VVS2 6.17x6.19x4.67 75.6 75.6 VG G NONE -30% Hw VG
725A+12 1.07 PRINCESS E VVS2 5.73x5.80x3.91 68.1 75.1 VG G NONE -30% Hw G
2029 1.01 RBC D SI1 6.26x6.35x4.05 64.2 57.2 EX G NONE -30% Hw VG
25 2.33 RBC E SI2 8.45x8.51x5.27 62.1 59.8 EX VG NONE -25% Hw VG
119 1.33 RBC E I1 7.23x7.20x4.25 58.8 60.9 G G NONE -20% Hw VG
71 1.92 RBC F I1 8.14x8.18x4.84 59.4 59.5 VG VG NONE -50% Hw VG
690E 2.01 PRINCESS G VS1 6.90x6.62x5.04 64.7 52.5 G VG NONE -34% Hw G
690C 2.48 CUSHION G SI2 8.39x6.82x5.14 75.2 66.5 G G NONE -40% Hw G
7 4.06 RBC I VS1 9.90x9.96x6.55 66.2 60.3 G G NONE -38% Hw G
691 2.01 RADIANT I VS2 7.20x6.88x4.80 69.7 69.5 G G NONE -37% Hw G
2019 2.50 RBC I SI1 8.80x8.70x5.34 61.1 65.1 VG G NONE -30% Hw G
922 3.05 PEAR I SI1 12.32x8.23x5.17 62.8 59.2 VG VG NONE -40% Hw VG
To add your name to our mailing list please forward your request to:
sales@sapirdiamonds.com
Radiant Stone 55 Queen St. E. Suite 501, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6 Round Stone
5.01 ct Phone: 416-863-6036/7 Toll Free: 1-866-387-1759 Fax: 416-863-0671 5.05 ct
SI1, I, VG www.SapirDiamonds.com SI1, D, VG
B R I DA L FI N I SHED MOUNTI NGS DI AMONDS GEMSTONES F I NDI NGS METALS TOOLS PACKAGING
s t ul ler.com 800-877-7777
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To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with your
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email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735
or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1
Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.
Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all
representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not
the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication
may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration
under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller
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8 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
36 Bargain Hunters
Making the most out of the tools in your
bench space.
40 Moving Forward
The new age of mining.
44 The Benchmarks
Why some gems set the standard for all others.
80 On the Lookout
48
Guiding Lights
The numbers suggest 2010 is going to end on
A change in what’s “Product of Canada” and “Made a great note.
in Canada.”
84 Start Spreading the News
54
First Generation Jewellers
What small business owners did to survive.
Knar Jewellers knows a thing or two about keeping
a growing business together.
86 Swan Song
Looking at the trends from JCK Las Vegas.
60
Grand Brand
90
What’s in a brand? And why consumers really care Unlimited Innovation
about them.
Live from Vicenza, a show that never disappoints.
64
The Current State of Synthetics
Another new option for gems.
68
68
Men’s Jewellery: This Time it’s Personal
Better and bolder, a category that is still going strong.
72 Green Fever
A trend is born with eco-friendly jewellery.
10 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
16 Contributors
18 Product Showcase
26 Who’s News
Suzann Petterson joins TAG Heuer; Batali teams up
with Ernst Benz. 100 Show Guide
32 Stock Index
108 Showcase
33 Mining News
114 Marketplace
94 Designer Profile
Yossi Harari.
76
98 Industry Buzz
12 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Independent
Ambition
It is my pleasure to be the guest editor of this issue of
Canadian Jeweller magazine. When asked whom I would
select as the cover story for this month’s issue, I immediately
thought of Jeff Buzbuzian of Knar Jewellery.
I have known Jeff for over 10 years and I admire his
business acumen, dedication and passion for the jewellery
business. Jeff is a well respected colleague and friend.
During the construction phase of my new store, Jeff was
very insightful and forthcoming in sharing information with
me on how to set up my store from an operational perspective.
I was grateful for his insight and knowledge. I continue to use
the Buzbuzians’ POS system to this day.
Knar Jewellers is well-known and highly respected
within the jewellery industry for its retail operations and for
being an innovative leader in jewellery technology. Knar is
an independent retail jeweller that has grown from a small,
200-sq.-ft. shop to a thriving three-store chain. The Buzbuzian
brothers’ dedication to building their business operations is
commendable.
With the influx of large corporate jewellers coming into
Canada, it is refreshing to see an independent jeweller such
as Knar continue to grow and develop its brand with integrity
and commitment to excellence.
Mark Lash
Mark Lash
Guest Editor
Owner, Mark Lash Fine Jewelry
14 CJ AUGUST 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Moments
MAKE A FLEETING MOMENT L AST FOREVER. THRE AD
YOUR CHOICE OF OUR BE AUTIFUL HANDFINISHED
CHARMS ONTO A BR ACELET OF 14K GOLD, STERLING
SILVER, LEATHER OR FABRIC. WHAT’S YOUR MOMENT? BE
INSPIRED AT PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM OR PANDORA.NET.
For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 120. U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • • © • All rights reserved
Scan Me!
matters involving various aspects Jeweller. Read her profile about and more a necessity and key to her photographs of our cover story
intellectual property. Polar Ice Diamonds on page 76. life-long style. on Knar Jewellery on page 54.
16 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
A Touch of Elegance
Tecno Display introduces a full collection of pre-assembled and
CHAMILIA. YOUR LIFE. YOUR STYLE.
tempered glass jewelry cases. We are manufacturing quarter-
Presenting the new necklace and earring collection from Chamilia,
vision showcases, sit downs, cash wraps, pedestals, shadow boxes,
a leader of innovative design in the jewelry category. Personalize
and wall showcases with the highest craftsmanship and attention
these necklaces and earrings with combinations of Chamilia’s
to detail. Standard and custom-made showcases and designs are
500+ beads. Add the collection to your Chamilia bead line today.
available. Tecno Display showcases are now available in Canada
Contact Chamilia at: 1-800-495-0977 or customerrelations@
through Westmount Store Fixtures. Call 1-800-561-1951 for more
chamilia.com. For more information, write 153 on the Free Info
information about Tecno Display. For more information, write 152
Card on page 120.
on the Free Info Card on page 120.
18 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
20 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Ottimo
Fendi is pleased to announce the introduction of Crazy Carats, an
elegant yet whimsical timepiece; a masterpiece of innovation, design,
and Swiss Made® craftsmanship with a fanciful touch.
The first of its kind, the polished stainless steel case has two crowns;
one for adjusting the time, the other for rotating the index gemstones,
Crazy Carats has a patented, truly unique mechanism which allows a
woman to change the gemstones on her watch simply by turning the
crown. Three different settings for three distinctive gemstone color
STORM LONDON stories using Diamonds, Rubies, Sapphires and multi-colored Topaz.
Attack of the Darth! Pay homage to cult classic Star Wars and The gemstones total approximately 3 carats for the oversized piece and
embrace the Darth invasion from STORM. This Special Edition 1 ½ carats for the small.
watch combines a space-age look with cutting edge design. The
Darth features a futuristic domed face that displays the time via a Bezels adorned with Top Wesselton VVS quality diamonds is also an
three-disc hand mechanism, all whilst being water resistant up to option. Accompanied by a supple polished stainless steel bracelet and
50m. You don’t have to be a Star Wars fan to triumph in your own FF logo butterfly deployant buckle, Crazy Carats by Fendi establishes
style wars with the Darth from STORM. For more information, an unprecedented integration of jewelry and timepiece technology. For
write 160 on the Free Info Card on page 120. more information, write 161 on the Free Info Card on page 120.
22 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
cjAugust 10 WorldsG&D.indd 1
7/22/10 1:09:28 PM
productshowcase
Hush Puppies
Siffari’s Signature Collection Celebrating 40 years. This Hush Puppies watch features a
A tradition in excellence continues with Siffari’s Signature stainless steel case and a genuine leather band, with an AGS
Collection. Manufactured entirely in Canada, Siffari has (Automatic Generating System) movement, this movement
combined unique design and detailed craftsmanship in comes with a battery that recharges itself with regular wear
this stunning collection. Featured here is a 14K two-tone much as an automatic watch. This watch also features a
gold ring with 0.21 cts of natural yellow diamonds and clear case back so that you could see the motion of the AGS
0.61 cts of white diamonds. For more information, write recharging. For more information, write 163 on the Free Info
162 on the Free Info Card on page 120. Card on page 120.
Breanna collection:
Polar Gem Breanna represents the women who believes she is special as she is.
Polar Gem is the first Eco-friendly Canadian diamond collection Determined, passionate about life, design and perfection, Breanna is
featuring renewed gold, with an identifiable diamond source, what every woman wants to be. She has found the love of her life and
guaranteed by a mine of origin certificate. The Polar Gem is now needs to choose The Ring. But how to find the perfect ring in a
the perfect round brilliant diamond, cut to ideal proportions crowded market place where everyone claims to have the perfect ring
and symmetry, with perfectly aligned facets, creating a flame- for you. That is why we designed the Breanna Collection. A collection
like quality reaching the highest level for a diamond polished, where every model is unique. Every future bride will find a ring that will
with one of a kind phenomenon of sparkle and light “hearts fit her personality and taste. Come to the world of Breanna and join the
and arrows”. For more information, write 165 on the Free Info women who enjoys the beauty and quality of this magnificent collection.
Card on page 120. For more information, write 166 on the Free Info Card on page 120.
24 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Plastic is Chic...
PlastiChic, the original Italian line of ultra stylish, silicone watches, has
JSN Diamonds Sparkle
arrived in Canada! Plastichic is the hottest fashion craze in Europe with a
JSN is one of Canada’s leading jewellery manufacturers with an arsenal
cult following and an attractive price point that translates into high volume
of five brands that range from entry-level product to a fully-certified
retail sales. The colourful, affordable, watches are available in 19 of the
premium Canadian diamond line. With offices in Canada, the United
season’s hottest colours and come in unique test tube packaging. PlastiChic
Kingdom and the United States, along with a plant in Bangkok, Thailand,
provides retailers with eye catching displays that drive impulse sales. For
JSN has achieved a high level of recognition on the international stage.
more information please email info@plastichic.ca or call 416 409 3855. For
For more information, write 170 on the Free Info Card on page 120.
more information, write 171 on the Free Info Card on page 120.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 25
26 CJ AUGUST 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
28 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
SILVER
TE
SY
S
M TH E S Y
STE
For details, write #115 on Free Info Page, page 120
SYS
LOCKETS CUBICS...
SY
DISPLAYS
EM
E
H
T
H
E
EM SY
ST STE
M T HE S Y
30 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
SINCE 1875
CHAMPLAIN
COLLECTION
DESIGNED TO BE NOTICED
www.bulova.com
For details, write #117 on Free Info Page, page 120.
return businesses and improve the company’s Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $39.650 $44.230 11.55% $50.530 $35.500 $2,561.0 14.46 43,870.16
Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $31.600 $38.700 22.47% $42.690 $20.810 $187.6 12.91 9,785.76
overall profitability. [CJ] Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $13.760 $17.570 27.69% $18.930 $8.830 $181.5 52.35 9,627.92
First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $78.730 $55.440 -29.58% $100.320 $48.200 $562.8 7.31 4,494.89
Please note: Freeport-McMoRan Copper&Gold FCX NYSE $81.180 $64.360 -20.72% $90.550 $43.190 $4,363.0 8.73 27,956.91
We would like to point out that all the images Gammon Gold GAM TSX $7.030 $8.090 15.08% $13.190 $6.610 $68.2 792 1,085.12
Gold Fields Ltd. (ADR) GFI NYSE $12.570 $13.480 7.24% $15.880 $10.620 $1,102.0 13.98 9,463.78
used in the “Lights, Camera, Action, Jewellery”
Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $39.440 $45.200 14.60% $48.370 $35.120 $750.3 26.16 33,141.89
design feature on page 77 of our June/July issue
Harmony Gold Mining Co. (ADR) HMY NYSE $9.380 $9.740 3.84% $12.050 $8.340 $336.0 29.55 4,163.88
are courtesy of Cary James at CONTACT Design Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $15.180 $17.430 14.82% $21.950 $9.990 $240.1 52.5 6,784.15
(www.contactdesign.ca) in Gravenhurst, Ont. Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $18.410 $14.300 -22.32% $18.980 $5.680 $10.0 N/A 6,168.99
Kinross Gold K TSX $17.940 $17.950 0.06% $25.220 $17.180 $657.6 35 12,550.07
Lundin Mining LUN TSX $5.230 $3.650 -30.21% $5.770 $2.650 $141.7 17.05 2,127.78
Newmont Mining NEM NYSE $52.150 $56.110 7.59% $59.575 $36.770 $2,242.0 17.37 27,170.44
Northgate Minerals Corp. NGX TSX $3.030 $3.120 2.97% $3.700 $2.120 $125.3 33 892.83
Pan American Silver PAA TSX $25.220 $26.090 3.45% $28.970 $19.450 $132.4 31.67 2,805.16
PolyMet Mining Corp. POM TSX $2.350 $1.450 -38.30% $3.890 $1.270 $0.0 N/A 226.45
Randgold Resources Ltd. (ADR) GOLD Nasdaq $79.920 $88.980 11.34% $91.750 $55.060 $122.5 24.11 7,990.12
Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $23.830 $27.400 14.98% $28.900 $8.200 $110.0 53.76 6,378.01
Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $17.500 $19.700 12.57% $21.930 $8.310 $90.6 49.1 6,876.15
Southern Copper Corp. SCCO NYSE $33.270 $30.050 -9.68% $36.980 $18.460 $1,219.4 21.43 25,976.00
Taseko Mines Ltd. TKO TSX $6.090 $5.170 -15.11% $6.190 $1.630 $75.5 11.02 960.15
Teck Resources Ltd. TCK.B TSX $42.670 $34.190 -19.87% $46.920 $16.500 $1,900.0 7.81 20,587.74
Thompson Creek Metals Co. Inc. TCM TSX $13.430 $9.200 -31.50% $16.500 $8.480 $127.8 4.98 1,316.74
Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $10.220 $10.960 7.24% $15.000 $9.350 $346.3 42.52 8,109.11
GemStones
Anglo American PLC AAUKY OTC $22.290 $19.280 -13.50% $23.550 $12.320 N/A 19.83 51,430.00
Azure Resources Corp. AZU TSX-V $0.120 $0.100 -16.67% $0.155 $0.080 $0.0 5 8.37
BHP Billiton Ltd. BHP NYSE $79.190 $65.460 -17.34% $83.200 $49.070 N/A 19.89 109,616.87
BRC DiamondCore BCD TSX $0.130 $0.180 38.46% $0.210 $0.020 $0.0 N/A 12.96
Diamond Fields Intl. DFI TSX $0.085 $0.170 100.00% $0.300 $0.040 $0.8 N/A 7.98
Diamond North Resources DDN TSX-V $0.255 $0.200 -21.57% $0.395 $0.125 N/A N/A 15.61
Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.345 $0.320 -7.25% $0.375 $0.085 N/A N/A 10.30
Equinox Minerals Ltd. EQN TSX $4.070 $3.860 -5.16% $4.680 $1.980 179.86 5.82 2,766.37
Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $10.460 $13.710 31.07% $14.020 $5.360 $133.7 21.61 1,095.22
Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $2.120 $2.460 16.04% $3.310 $1.510 $0.0 N/A 159.51
Peregrine Diamonds Ltd. PGD TSX $2.270 $2.010 -11.45% $4.650 $0.540 0 N/A 173.85
Rio Tinto PLC RTP NYSE $58.743 $48.180 -17.98% $62.243 $30.000 $0.0 8.28 47,148.60
Sanatana Diamonds Inc. STA TSX-V $0.120 $0.080 -33.33% $0.250 $0.055 N/A N/A 4.39
Shear Minerals Ltd. SRM TSX-V $0.060 $0.055 -8.33% $0.120 $0.040 N/A N/A 4.84
Starfield Resources Inc. SRU TSX $0.090 $0.075 -16.67% $0.220 $0.070 $0.0 N/A 39.14
Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.630 $0.520 -17.46% $0.800 $0.105 $0.0 N/A 136.74
For details, write #118 on Free Info Page, page 120.
True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.085 $0.080 -5.88% $0.215 $0.070 N/A N/A 6.35
Vale (ADR) VALE NYSE $33.460 $26.640 -20.38% $34.710 $15.580 $6,848.0 6.9 130,554.90
Commodities
Gold COMX $1,217.100
Silver COMX $18.250
Platinum NYME $1,536.800
Palladium COMX $450.700
*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.
32 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 33
Ethical Tech
When you consider ethics in the use of
technology, two main concerns come to
mind: sustainability and privacy.
B y A mber Klaehn
I
ncreasingly, sustainable business practice is considered a standard family members, special occasions such as birthdays and anniversary
of good citizenship, and customers expect it. Technology is key dates, purchase history, credit card information and so on. The retailer
to sustainable practice. Consider the ways software enables the needs to warrant that information is kept confidential and that it is
retailer to reduce its paper-use: A POS system allows the retailer to securely stored.
create and store client profiles online – personal information, buying
history, preferences and so on. It also allows you to input orders, track If you don’t already have one, you may want to consider developing a
repairs and manage inventory. Today’s software solutions are designed privacy policy for your business, that includes a confidentiality agreement
for ease-of-use and can be customized for specific needs. The more that all employees must read and sign. Part of the privacy policy could
record keeping you do online, the greater the reduction in use of paper. include restricting access to client information to certain levels of staff
You need only print a hard copy as required rather than as a matter or to categorizing clients to higher or lesser degrees of need for privacy,
of course. depending on the extent of personal information that you are collecting.
Another paper-saving benefit of technology is in marketing online. A good privacy policy would make it clear that employees may not
Marketing materials such as catalogues, direct mailing promotions discuss any private information they may be privy to. Nor may they
and invitations to special events can all be created and posted online, use client information for anything other than business related to the
or emailed to client lists. In addition to being a green approach, there jewellery store.
are substantial savings on expensive printing costs. Consumers are also
more and more likely to shop online, looking at product lines and ideas. Not only is this essential, good business practice but also it is law.
As the retailer, you can print product pages on demand when there is a Privacy legislation dictates how personal information can be used.
need for catalogue-type information or takeaways. Clients have the right to request records on files related to them and to
how their information is used.
With direct-mail promotions and invitations, technology allows you to see
who is opening your mail. This helps you better target future promotions One of the ways the retailer can build client trust is to let clients know that
and to evaluate the effectiveness of different approaches and promotions. privacy and confidentiality policies are in place. Another key element is
to let clients know that your business systems work on the highest level of
Going one step further with technology, using Software as a Service (SaaS) security. Ensure that your software is PA-DSS certified, so that all personal
business owners share a common software source online, which reduces information, including credit card detail is securely handled and stored.
the need for individual copies of programs.
Part of the privacy issue is being careful about not spamming clients.
The benefits go beyond more efficient store management. Sustainability Use email and Twitter or any other electronic messaging judiciously.
is a selling benefit. More and more customers are looking to do business Technology has opened up a new world of communication but it is
with companies they see as being ethical in their environmental important to have a planned approach to client contact.
responsibility.
As technology continues to develop and evolve at a fast pace and as it is
Privacy underscores all this sustainable practice based on the use of increasingly used for efficient and sustainable business practice, so will
technology. This is especially true in any business that is based on client- new ethical issues arise. A proactive approach to putting privacy and
relationship and trust. It is particularly important for the jewellery security policies in place will send a clear message to your clients that
retailer who captures highly personal data: details on the client and yours is an ethical business worthy of their trust and patronage. [CJ]
34 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
A broken 50mm camera lens can be used as a huge 10x loupe. My favourite tip: a carbide flint wheel from a disposable lighter makes a great
rotary file and texturing burr.
Bargain Hunters
Saving dollars on equipment can be really helpful to a shop’s bottom line. Often, tools and equipment
from other industries prove useful, and are sometimes cheaper than regular tool suppliers. Some call
this “scrounging,” although more professional terms include “upcyling” and “repurposing.”
BY CHARLES LEWTON-BRAIN
W
hen looking outside the jewellery world for tools and A vital principle is looking for someone (or some industry) who uses so
equipment, there are a number of basic principles to keep much of something they do not value it. There are numerous examples
in mind. Describe the problem you want to solve and then of this.
look for industries that have the same problem. Look for patterns; if
something looks like something else there is probably a relationship. • The flint wheel from an older-style disposable lighter is a great carbide
For instance, if you need to remove dust that you generate while working, steel burr that jewellers might otherwise pay several dollars for. For
visit an aesthetician’s shop where they grind acrylic nails and have lighters, they are made in such quantities that they can be produced
to remove the dust and keep it out of the air: they have mesh-topped incredibly cheaply. When the lighter is empty, the top can be pried
vacuum boxes for this purpose. apart and the flint wheel placed on a standard screw mandrel for the
flexible shaft to obtain a carbide burr. It works like a rotary fi le for
Another example is Aquaplast, a wonderful plastic material that turns fi ling edges, texturing and coarse metal removal.
into soft putty in hot water and hardens stiffly at room temperature –
just like pitch. It can replace pitch and shellac in stone setting, and can • Dry pickling acid (you know the ubiquitous brand I mean) is almost
be used to make handles, soft jaws for pliers and so on. Do you remember the same as sodium bisulfate, which is commonly sold as swimming
‘friendly plastic?’ It is the same material, and works the same way. And pool acid and used to change the pH of swimming pools and hot tubs.
so does the sheet material used to make lightweight casts for broken It is far less expensive there than at the jewellery supply store ($1.50 for
limbs. You may be able to get some from a hospital worker friend. the same amount you would normally pay $6 for) It is also the main
ingredient in most toilet bowl cleaners, and can be bought very cheaply
It is important to shift categories – that is, to look at how you (and in drums as an industrial toilet bowl cleaner.
other people) class things in your mind and see if you can break out
of that putting-things-into-mental-boxes behavior. An example is • If you know someone who works in an institution (jail, school, factory,
chasing tools, which sell as high as $60 for five on eBay while wooden etc.) they have large floor polishing machines with giant scotch brite
boxes of 80-100 watchmakers staking tools (the same hardened and pads on the bottom. When they think the pads are worn out, they
tempered steel, same thing as chasing tools, and easily altered to suit are still good for our use, and even better are the round discs they
one’s purpose) sell for $25. Watchmakers’ tools are classed as obsolete punch out and throw away from the middles of the pad when they
and only for fi xing watches, but shift mental categories and that box are mounted on the machine. Stiffen up the center with a little epoxy
is worth a pile. If you were to sell those 80 tools as chasing tools they and they are essentially the same scotch brite discs for the polishing
would fetch over $500. machine for which jewellers pay up to $8 each.
36 CJ AUGUST 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
includes beautiful
gift box
Shiny Jewellers
• One can buy round leather dog chews in different diameters at the pet
store, cut them in half, drill through them and mount an appropriate-
sized hammer handle in them to make very inexpensive, good-quality
leather mallets, particularly in the small sizes. Look for a chew that
is solid all the way through, as some will have cavities in them. Two
dollars gets you three small mallets. Round puck-shaped chews make
a good chasing hammer.
Aquaplast® and Jetsett® are thermoplastics that replace pitch.
• Electroplaters are just DC current. You can use kid’s model racing
car and train transformers for plating ($5 at a flea market) or even a
battery charger ($10 at a flea market). A really good plater is a used
high-tech regulated power supply from eBay ($65). This is normally
used for electronics applications.
A toy train or car transformer makes a very effective electroplater. So, providing you take care not to endanger yourself, substituting one
thing for another or “scrounging” can be really helpful in dropping that
overhead over the long haul. [CJ]
38 CJ AUGUST 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
O T T I M O C R E AT I O N S I N C . 1 - 8 0 0 - 3 6 3 - 0 1 7 8 , T W S T E E L - WAT C H E S @ O T T I M O C R E AT I O N S . C O M , W W W. T W S T E E L . C O M
BY STAN SUDOL
T
he mood at the annual Prospectors and Developers Association was a scapegoat and was eventually cleared of all charges. She is now
of Canada (PDAC) convention in Toronto was definitely more in the Canadian Mining Hall of Fame.) In 1997, Bre-X Minerals chief
upbeat and promising than last year. As the world’s major geologist, John Felderhof, was presented with the Prospector of the Year
economies start to recover from last year’s market crash and the collapse Award for the discovery of the world’s biggest gold deposit in Busang,
of commodity prices, most observers agree that China’s insatiable Indonesia. He gave it back once it became known that someone added
appetite for metals will continue. gold to the core samples, turning the entire affair into the largest gold
swindle in mining history.
The March convention is the world’s premiere event for mineral
exploration and development professionals. These include representatives Without a doubt, Ontario’s mining sector was one of the top discussions
of major and small-to-medium-sized junior exploration and mining at this year’s PDAC, held March 7-10. The Ring of Fire mining camp,
companies, technical experts, government officials, prospectors, mine located in the muskeg swamps of the James Bay lowlands, 500km
financiers and investors, just to name a few of the participants. northeast of Thunder Bay, has almost single handedly heralded the
rebirth of Ontario mining industry.
The Investors Exchange allows hundreds of mineral exploration
companies to gather under one roof to promote their projects, many of “For the 21st century, the discovery of chromite in the Ring of Fire could
them prospective diamond and gold properties, and allows the average be as big as the discovery of nickel was in Sudbury in the 19th century,”
shareholder in a junior mining company to talk to the presidents and the recent Ontario Budget speech boldly claimed.
find out first-hand the facts.
“We are fully committed to working with Aboriginal Peoples and
This is the largest and sometimes one of the most notorious conventions Northern Ontarians to build on the Ring of Fire’s potential.”
in Toronto. Twenty years ago, when it was still held at the Royal York
Hotel, a mining promoter was murdered by an angry creditor. The longest Tentative plans by Cleveland-based iron ore producer, Cliffs Natural
reigning PDAC president, Viola MacMillan, was charged with insider Resource, call for a $1.3-billion investment, including a concentrator,
trading during the infamous Windfall Scandal of 1964. (MacMillan ferrochrome processing facility and a $600-million, 350-kilometre rail
served seven weeks in jail before being released on parole. Many feel she line in the north.
40 CJ AUGUST 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Chromite, when smelted into ferrochromium alloys, is used in the Sudbury-born Richard Nemis said, “My heart will always belong to
production of stainless steel. There are no chromite mines in North Northern Ontario. It gives me great pleasure to see the potentially
America. Thousands of construction jobs and promise of full-time enormous economic boost the Ring of Fire discovery will have on the
employment for many Aboriginal communities in the north are north, on Aboriginal communities and hopefully, on Sudbury’s world-
welcome news to a region and province facing high unemployment class mining supply and service industry.”
and record budget deficits.
Nemis is an ardent Johnny Cash fan and he was the promotional genius
Not since the heady gold-rush days of the Hemlo discoveries in the early who nicknamed the discovery “Ring of Fire.”
1980s, has a mining development so influenced Ontario economics
and politics. The area has the unique shape of a broken circle or crescent while the
original deposits were the result of magma or molten rock from huge
At a luxurious gala held at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel – the mining volcanic action. He continued, “In fact, I think the Ring of Fire will
sector’s version of the Academy Awards – the five men responsible for rival the Sudbury basin and the economic impact of this discovery on
the Ring of Fire were given the prestigious PDAC Prospectors of the the Ontario economy will probably run into the hundreds of billions
Year Award. of dollars over time.”
Recognized for the significant base-metals and chromite discoveries At the PDAC Aboriginal Forum, Michael Gravelle, Ontario minister for
in Northern Ontario’s Ring of Fire were: John D. Harvey, mining Northern Development, Mines and Forestry, said, “I’m glad to see so
consultant; Donald Hoy, former Freewest’s VP Exploration; Richard many of you here today, because PDAC is an excellent venue for fostering
Nemis, previous president and CEO Noront Resources; Neil D. collaboration… I think we all understand that there is a huge opportunity
Novak, president and CEO, Spider Resources; and Mac Watson, former here. The industry can be a catalyst for an economic revival in many of
Freewest president and CEO. our Aboriginal communities while developing superb mineral deposits.”
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 41
The conf lict between Platinex Inc. and the Kitchenuhmaykoosib The Victoria deposit has the potential for 10-20 million tons, would
Inninuwug First Nation (KI) over the Big Trout Lake Property was take four to five years to build, and employ about 250 workers. FNX
the exception, not the rule. The province recently settled outstanding will continue with its exploration drilling for another 12 to 18 months
lawsuits. Of course the southern media highlighted the conflict, which before deciding to develop the deposit.
allowed environmentalists to infer that Aboriginal communities were
anti-mining. FNX CEO and Chairman Terry McGibbon had a big smile on his face
as he was giving Laurentian University’s new president, Dominic Giroux,
For more than a century, the federal government has not kept promises a personal tour of the PDAC convention.
with First Nations and has not been able to alleviate the third-world
poverty in most Aboriginal communities. Over the past two decades, MacGibbon said, “The Sudbury Basin is a unique geological feature,
success stories such as De Beers Canada’s Attawapiskat diamond mine which has produced or has mineral reserves worth more than a trillion
and Goldcorp Canada’s Musselwhite gold mine, both in the same dollars at today’s metal prices. Touring the PDAC today with Dominic,
region as the Ring of Fire, have proved that the mining companies do I wanted to highlight the size of the global mining industry.”
what they say and keep their promises.
MacGibbon continued, “Our discussions focused on the potential role
At Goldcorp’s Musselwhite gold mine, a precedent-setting agreement that Laurentian University can play in bridging the well-documented
between the company and four surrounding First Nations communities shortages of geologists, engineers, environmental professionals and
ensures that qualified aboriginals are given priority in the hiring process. other staff for the mining industry.” In early May, FNX announced a
In addition, native businesses were encouraged to supply the mine $1-million donation for Laurentian’s mining programs.
site with services, and First Nation employees were also provided with
apprenticeship training programs in various trades. On the last day of the convention, Don Coxe, the well-respected,
strategic advisor for BMO Financial Group and an ardent believer
At De Beers Canada Inc.’s Attawapiskat diamond mine near the in the commodity super-cycle, gave a lunch speech on the incredible
James Bay coast, approximately $1-billion was spent on construction potential and need for Canada’s junior mining sector.
of the mine, with approximately $167-million spent with Aboriginal
businesses or joint venture partners during the construction phase. Coxe said, “I can’t think of a better career in the next 25 years than
It is also estimated that De Beers will contribute $6.7-billion cumulative geology. To anyone coming in, what you will be tying yourself into
GDP impact for all of Ontario during the life of the Victor Mine. is the hinge of history itself, where two-billion people move from the
A May 2010 workforce snapshot showed approximately 44 per cent outside to the inside and they can’t do it without you.”
of the 519 employees less than two years into full production were
Aboriginal. In addition, De Beers has dedicated $1.2-million on literacy He was referring to the industrialization and urbanization of China and
programs in the coastal settlements, built an $850,000 training centre India that will impact billions and the insatiable demand for mineral
in 2005 and a second in 2009 at a cost of $1-million in Attawapiskat, products to meet their growth.
while contributing $2-million to help leverage more than $10-million in
pre-employment training. The “hinge of history” could just as well refer to the rebirth of mining
in Northern Ontario and the enormous opportunities for Laurentian
The announcement of a new nickel/copper/PGM deposit by FNX at its University to train the next generation of skilled mining professionals
Victoria Property, on the western side of the Sudbury Basin, was much and for Aboriginal communities to fully participate with the mineral
needed good news for a community in the middle of its longest labour sector in the environmentally sustainable development of their
strike ever. The Sudbury Basin is the richest mining district in North traditional lands. [CJ]
42 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
A
Sri Lankan sapphire of sapphire from Kashmir is very hard to come by these days. There has been no
9.67 carats. sapphire mining in this disputed region between India and Pakistan (listed
alphabetically) for over 60 years. Despite, or perhaps due to the inherent rarity
of a gem that hasn’t been mined for more than half a century, Kashmir sapphire carries
a cachet that no other sapphire can come close to.
Kashmir sapphire is considered the best because in the best examples, the colour is
exceptional; the gems are rich and bright. If a sapphire can be identified as Kashmir,
then the gem is worth more than an equivalent looking sapphire from anywhere else.
This is where it can get interesting for the gemologist and appraiser. If a sapphire is
Kashmir, them it will be much more costly than a sapphire from somewhere else, even
if the two have an appearance that is virtually the same.
Laboratories are increasingly being asked to identify the geographic origin of gems.
Can this be done? Many specialists have spent years compiling their reference collections
for gem origin. Knowing the nature of colour, colour zones, inclusions, response to
ultraviolet radiation, growth features, geological genesis and so many other features
provide strong hints as the origin of a gem.
If a sapphire is identified as Kashmir” it will certainly sell for more than a sapphire
identified as Madagascar or Burma (now referred to as Myanmar). I have seen a sapphire
that was described to me as having been mined in Madagascar. The gem was taken to a
44 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
38.7-carat Tanzanite.
“then
If the gems themselves are really comparable,
surely the source shouldn’t play a big role
in the price, should it?
”
lab where it received an origin certificate as Burma and later, at another Colombian, but any source will have good and bad. Colombia has long
lab received a certificate as Kashmir. Jackpot: The gem has undergone a been able to consistently produce good quantities of fine emerald, and
metamorphosis from a recently mined very nice Madagascar sapphire to though there are political difficulties in the country, the emeralds are
a vintage, and very rare Kashmir gem. The price is probably four or five still coming out.
times what it should have been as a Madagascar gem.
Afghanistan has produced some exceptional emeralds, and some work
At Harold Weinstein Lab, we have debated the origin and value subject has been done to develop the source. In my opinion, some of the Afghan
with many dealers, labs and other specialists. Laboratories such as GIA emeralds can easily compete with really fine Colombian emerald. Is
don’t give dollar values, and it would be nice to be in that position, but there any rational reason for two virtually matching emeralds from
an appraiser, by definition, does put dollar values on items. If a gem Colombia and Afghanistan to be different prices?
of a certain origin comes in for appraisal, it gets a value that might be
determined by the origin. If the gems themselves are really comparable, then surely the source
shouldn’t play a big role in the price, should it? I realize that there is a
The important gem heritage sites are few, but important. They are really slim chance of mining in Afghanistan under its currently fragile
important, and often are historically the sources of the finest specimens political, social and military conditions. Is there good reason that two
of their respective gems. The problem is that there are sometimes other really similar gems should be very different prices just because one is
newer sources that have appeared that are capable of producing equally from a poorly known source?
beautiful gems. There are often good arguments for the heritage sources
to retain value. Consistency of quality and reliability of the source are On the opposite, Myanmar is renowned as the source of the finest rubies
important. in the world, but we are seeing appraisers and gemologists being asked to
identify sources that are not Burma. Vietnam has produced some really
Colombia is the traditional source for very fine emeralds. Really rubbish exceptional gems, but the source is smaller and less reliable. Madagascar has
emeralds can come from there too, and they are often identifiable as produced some good rubies, but is better known for sapphire, as is Sri Lanka.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 45
Untreated, 4.25-carat
ruby from Tanzania.
There really might be very little competition for the finest Burma ruby, Sometimes one source produces good material and others produce
but the U.S. has passed a bill prohibiting the import of ruby and jadeite inferior goods. There are several sources of opal in the world right
jade from Myanmar. now, but opal from the very dry island of Australia is very stable, and is
resistant to cracking, and holds it play of colour. Opal from Madagascar
The ban on imports has created something of a scramble entirely based dries out and turns cloudy, Idaho opal crazes, and opal from several
on origin. There is suddenly a demand for ruby from anywhere except African nations has incredible play of colour, but usually cracks very
Myanmar. We have had requests to identify ruby as “red sapphire” extensively, so Australian opal demands a price based on being virtually
because the U.S. embargo only includes ruby and jade, not sapphire, the only source for stable gem quality opal.
peridot or other gems for which Myanmar is noted. Morally we couldn’t
call ruby “red sapphire,” but it shows that origin has become a big deal Diamond is rarely identified by origin, and when it is, it may realize
in certain circles. a few percentage points extra, barely covering the cost of additional
paperwork to track it and laser engraving. Canada is one of the few
An important alternate source for ruby is Tanzania, which has several sources of diamond that is specifically identified, and about 95 per cent
mining areas opened up, including “Winza”. The rubies from Winza of Canadian Diamond is not identified as coming from here.
often have an orangish tone with the red, they often have blue streaks in
them, they are noticeably included, but, on the plus side, they’re usually The only diamond that fetches a notable premium on its price is Golconda
not heat-treated. These rubies are truly inferior to Myanmar rubies, but diamond. Golconda diamond is from India, the world’s first source, and
the U.S. is a huge market and the industry needs a source of ruby that is the only source for several thousand years. Golconda hasn’t produced
ironically not the traditionally finest. The price for these rubies is much any diamonds for centuries, and though there is current exploration,
higher than it really should be, but the trade has to take what it can get, it is historical, and therefore has a heritage cachet, ad when these gems
and sales of ruby into one of the world’s biggest jewellery markets is come up for sale they can fetch a big premium.
strangely limited right now.
Perhaps it isn’t source that is important in adding value to gems, but
Sometimes a source is important because it is the only one. Tanzanite, history. The quality of a gem contributes heavily to its value, but rightly
strangely enough, comes from the country that is its namesake, and and justifiably the story and historical background of a gem can carry
there really aren’t other sources of note. It doesn’t get a premium for some sense of journey and tradition to add substantially to value too.
being from Tanzania, it just happens to come from there, and there are Justifiably, the romance is an important element of value in a gem,
no price comparisons. despite comparables from lesser-known sources. [CJ]
46 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Guiding Lights
New rules for “Product of Canada” and “Made in Canada.”
B y Stephen I. S elznick and Elizabeth Sinnott
from C assels B rock & B lackwell LLP, T oronto
T
o ensure truth in advertising and to provide manufacturers, importers and retailers with
guidance, the Competition Bureau has introduced new enforcement guidelines relating
to “Product of Canada” and “Made in Canada” claims applicable to non-food products. The
guidelines that came into effect on July 1, 2010, supersede the former guide to “Made in Canada” claims, and
describe the Bureau’s approach to assessing claims under the false or misleading representation provisions
of the Competition Act, the Consumer Packaging and Labelling Act (with respect to non-food products
only) and the Textile Labelling Act. The publication of the new guidelines is a clear signal that territorial
source of origin claims should be revisited and reexamined in order to avoid attracting scrutiny from the
Bureau and to avoid potential consumer complaints.
With respect to precious metals and precious metal articles – including gold, palladium, platinum and
silver (and an alloy of any of those metals or an article that is wholly or partially, or purporting to be
wholly or partially, composed of a precious metal – the rules for quality markings have not changed,
and are outlined in the Precious Metals Marking Act and Precious Metals Marking Regulations.
48 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
“representations.
The Acts administered by the Bureau prohibit the making of false or misleading
Therefore, when a business makes a “Product of Canada” or
“Made in Canada” claim, it should do so in accordance with the guidelines.
”
While quality markings on precious metals are not mandatory, the claim, the last substantial transformation of the goods must have
marking, in order to refer to the quality of a precious metal, must comply occurred in Canada. Secondly, at least 51 per cent of the total direct
with the Precious Metals Acts. Under special circumstances, a Canadian costs of producing or manufacturing the good must have been incurred
national mark, a maple leaf surrounded by the letter “C”, for example, in Canada. Finally, the “Made in Canada” representation must be
may be applied in accordance with the Precious Metals Acts if the: accompanied by a qualifying statement, such as “Made in Canada with
60 per cent Canadian content and 40 per cent imported content.”
• article is wholly manufactured in Canada;
• article is composed of a precious metal of a prescribed quality; If a product does not meet the criteria, the Bureau recommends using
• article has a prescribed quality mark applied to it; and more specific terms to reflect the activities that took place in Canada,
• dealer applying the national mark is properly authorized by e.g. “Assembled in Canada with foreign parts.” General terms such as
a Commissioner appointed by the Bureau. “produced” or “manufactured” are discouraged as they are likely to be
understood by consumers as synonymous with “Made in Canada.”
While the Precious Metals Acts provisions must be followed in applying
quality marks or the Canadian national mark on a precious metal, the When determining whether a “Product of Canada” or “Made in
guidelines have important advertising and marketing considerations Canada” declaration has been made, even if these exact words are
for those in the jewellery business, especially for those manufacturing not used, the Bureau will look at the general impression conveyed by
or selling jewellery not made of a precious metal or jewellery not the representation. The Bureau will also consider any visual elements
containing a quality mark. (e.g. flag representations or colour schemes), illustrations and implied
claims that may alter the plain meaning of the words.
The Acts administered by the Bureau prohibit the making of false
or misleading representations. Therefore, when a business makes a If the Bureau finds that a territorial source of origin representation
“Product of Canada” or “Made in Canada” claim, it should do so in is materially false or misleading, several avenues of enforcement are
accordance with the guidelines. The Bureau relies on the guidelines in available, including administrative monetary penalties, restitution
determining whether to investigate a consumer claim or to undertake and prohibition orders, publication corrective notices or criminal
appropriate enforcement action for non-compliance. The new guidelines prosecution. The enforcement of the misleading advertising provisions
create a clear distinction between “Product of Canada” and “Made in of the Competition Act also give rise to a civil right of action in certain
Canada” claims. circumstances, exposing manufacturers, importers and retailers to
direct consumer litigation and potential class action claims.
In order to be identified as a “Product of Canada,” items must satisfy
two conditions. First, the last substantial transformation of the goods Those selling or advertising products in Canada should revisit
must have occurred in Canada. Secondly, at least 98 per cent of the total packaging and marketing materials as well as current inventories of
direct costs of producing or manufacturing the goods must have been product in order to consider appropriate changes to comply with the
incurred in Canada. guidelines, including the over-stickering of inventory not already
sold to the market.
The requirements for a “Made in Canada” claim are less stringent, and
must conform to three conditions. First, as in a “Product of Canada” For further information please visit www.casselsbrock.com. [CJ]
50 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
We all know statistics say lightning doesn't strike twice, but do we expect it to strike even at all? Mo Charania, owner of Jubilee Fine Jewellers
in Ottawa, knows first hand what “lightning” feels like. Charania is a JVC director, a JVC Crime Prevention member and past president of the
Canadian Jewellers Association. His message is that this can and will happen. Be prepared. He is someone who has experienced lightning.
— Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, JVC.
It’s a Saturday afternoon in a busy mall, our jewellery store full of mall security for having all security measures possible in place and
clients… it’s a busy day, things are good. Then all of a sudden, four following them to a tee.
masked and armed men enter the store and yell “this is a hold up,
everyone to the floor… NOW.” Everything seems to happen in slow We made sure staff and clients were offered counselling. We dealt with
motion. You hear screaming, the sledge hammers hitting the glass the aftermath, fixed the store and then went back to life as usual or as
repeatedly, you hear the glass breaking and yet they keep hammering close to it as possible. We had great support from the community, and
as time keeps count down. After what seems like an eternity, you hear all rallied around us to help us recover. They felt safe coming into the
the timekeeper; he keeps yelling time to go, time to go, yet they are not store – after all, this hadn’t happened in our city before, and the police
leaving. The security film on the glass slowed down the process. What caught them. Everyone was hopeful and perhaps even confident that
should have been an easy in-and-out for the robbers took too long – this wouldn’t happen again.
well over a minute. They fled with over $250,000 in product at cost.
The police responded right away and managed to follow the robbers, Well, we were all wrong. Nine weeks and one day later, the same thing
closed off roads and cornered them all in the span of a few minutes. happened again. This time, they used the sledge hammers to break
They managed to arrest the robbers, complete with loaded weapons the doors to the cases and not the glass, and got away with well over
and merchandise. The security measures worked! $1-million in product, at cost, in 45 seconds. The police were there
within one minute this time, but it was too late.
The police commended all involved for being cool, following the robbers
directions, pushing the panic alarm button without jeopardizing What went wrong? The insurance company required the glass to be lined
themselves or their safety or the security procedural measures we with security laminate, but unfortunately no one paid attention to the
had in place. Clear images were available from our 16 cameras. Mall wood doors with high security locks. The wood construction doors were
cameras showed the entrance and exit routes. Mall security worked not as strong as the glass. It was a very expensive lesson learned for all. The
well in informing police, and in getting mall clients out of halls and criminals adapted very quickly and learned from their mistake. It was time
safe. It all went the way it should have when an armed robbery occurs. that we did as well. All this has been corrected, but much too late.
When we asked the police what we could do differently, they said we
were very well prepared and couldn’t do much more to prevent such an Today, jewellers have to be completely prepared and make sure they have
incident. The insurance company commended us and, the police and covered all their security bases, because if they don't, the criminals will
52 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
find a way to breach them. Protection starts with common things, such
as a monitored alarm system with DVAC or cellular back up, an alarmed
safe for jewellery at night, perimeter alarmed with glass break sensors
and door contacts and also interior motion sensors. Is that enough for
“or…jewellers don’t carry adequate insurance
are not insured. Why wouldn’t one make sure
the night time? Yes, it probably is, but our greatest risk is during the day
they have adequate insurance for what may be
when our jewellery is in our display cases. Are you prepared?
What We Learned
your most valuable asset…?
”
Be alert and absolutely never let your guard down, always be aware. Don’t
make it easy for a robber to target you. Like so many things, they take characteristics such as serial and model numbers and weight, sizes and
the easy route, so make sure you aren’t the easy target. It is imperative qualities of gemstones. This information has to be kept on point-of-sale
that you have all the physical aspects of security covered; security cameras or some sort of manual records. Remember, if items are stolen and all
with some sort of recording device – preferably a digital system; cameras information is only on the tag, you may be out of luck.
outside the store to detect suspicious activity security cameras facing
entrances so you have good facial shots of all those people entering; panic Finally, a lot of jewellers don’t carry adequate insurance or are not
buttons; a plan for when (not if) the robbery happens (not if… think that insured. Why wouldn’t one make sure they have adequate insurance for
way); security film on the inside of glass surfaces; showcases that will what may be your most valuable asset from a financial perspective? We
withstand up to one minute of being hit with a hammer security show all have car insurance, home insurance etc. Why wouldn’t you insure
case locks. Here are some additional tips: divide inventory and risk so your store, inventory and cover yourself with liability insurance? Over-
not all the expensive items are in one case; have staff be on the look-out reaction you might think? I don’t think so. If we didn’t have a good
for suspicious visitors to the store, especially if they are in more than insurance company behind us, it would have been extremely difficult to
once. If so, alert mall security or police; keep show case glass clean at all recover a $1-million dollar loss.
times, or police will have too many prints to sort through. Make sure
you have very good records of your inventory for ease of identification. The JVC has an excellent program that includes sending out bulletins
Police cannot return goods to you or make a good case against a robber out to the industry. Be alert; learn from the bulletins, and make sure you
if you aren’t able to provide very good descriptions or identifying don’t become one of the bulletins. [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 53
First-Generation
Jewellers
Fire, floods and recessions have not deterred the Buzbuzian brothers
from building a flourishing family jewellery enterprise.
B y Carol Besler
Photography By I lia Horsburgh
J
ewellery retailing is traditionally a family owned succession-driven
business, with sons and daughters taking the reins gradually as parents ease
into retirement. Entrepreneurs Greg and Jeff Buzbuzian are the exceptions
to this rule. They created their family business from the ground up.
Greg detoured almost unintentionally into jewellery. After completing his B.A.
in English, he went to work in the family business – a brass and aluminum
foundry. After one-and-half years at the foundry, Greg felt the need to be in
a more creative and artistic business. Surprisingly, his father encouraged him
to be adventurous and to do “whatever makes you happy in life,” but dad did
express the need to work hard and make things better.
While working with his cousin at a gift show selling leather goods, Greg met a
gentleman selling silver jewellery and decided to try his luck at jewellery retail.
With little knowledge and even less money, Greg rented a tiny 200-sq.-ft space
for $150 a month. His father, Varich, helped him build the store, including
iron gates, show cases and all. His mother, Beatrice, helped with painting and
wallpaper, and a few months later, Knar Jewellery was created. Knar is an
Armenian girl’s name meaning a harp-like instrument, beauty and melody.
Business started out slowly, so Greg had to work part-time at night to help
pay the bills. Eventually, business started to improve, and he summoned his
brother Jeff who was backpacking through Europe at the time.
Knar started out by selling silver and costume jewellery. Fortunately, Greg and
Jeff were introduced to the Titizian brothers from Sevan Jewellers, who helped
train them in the art of fine jewellery, gave good advice and encouragement
along the way. This was the beginning of the appreciation for quality diamonds
and colored gemstone jewellery. Jeff undertook an apprenticeship with a Swiss
trained jeweller and watchmaker, Eduardo Inhoff, in Nanaimo, B.C., while
Greg took business courses and studied GIA courses at night.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 55
What had begun as a lark quickly became an all-consuming profession, in the walk-in vault. We salvaged what we could and opened a new
as the brothers dedicated themselves to building what has become one of workshop up the street the next day; our three goldsmiths at the time
Canada’s most successful independent jewellery retailers. never missed a shift.”
In the first year of business, 1978, sales were a “staggering” $80,000. What “We ran a very successful and creative fire sale,” says Greg, “which taught
the brothers lacked in experience, they made up for in enthusiasm and us the benefits of promotions. As fate would have it, a young man who
determination. They believed in genuine customer service, which included was a land surveyor came in and purchased his engagement ring. The
doing many repairs for free and delivering to retirement homes. They did young man liked what he saw and applied for a position at Knar. John
whatever it took to please clients, a policy they still embrace today. Van de Kamer never left, and is our store manager in Guelph and plays
a key role in management of the company.”
“Like many small business owners we had various strategies over the
years, which were always evolving, but keeping our eye on the ball and With the proceeds from the fire sale they bought a jewellery store in
working with each client personally is the answer in retailing,” says Jeff. downtown Kitchener. “We had zero brand equity in Kitchener at the
“We are trying to be the best client service specialist in the business and time, but we applied some of our winning formulas. We quickly attracted
striving toward that goal will always yield great results.” The strategy a clientele who appreciated our European imports and service of fine
paid off, and by 1982 they needed to hire another goldsmith, a big move watches,” says Jeff. “We also had an import company that distributed
for a very small family enterprise. Kim Wong is still employed by Knar. very unique, high-quality European lines. At the time, we carried
From that point on, the business began to take off, and the brothers brands such as Seiko, Concord, Piaget and Cartier.” Quality watches
realized they could not do everything – they needed to depend on the has remained an important aspect of the business. The stores currently
staff to make the business really grow. represent Rolex, Cartier, Chopard, TAG Heuer, Glashütte, Raymond
Weil, Gucci, Rotary, Swiss Army, Fabergé, and of course still Seiko.
Knar took off like a house on fire, literally. “A major fire in a block
building next door to us in 1986 gutted our workshop,” says Jeff. “We “These global brands are great for business on their own but they also
lost the shop and everything in it except our client’s repairs, which were attract a clientele that purchases many other products we carry in our
56 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
shops,” says Jeff. The Brothers believe the introduction of major brands was a great move; we kept our existing clients as well as discovering a
has taught them a tremendous amount about sales and marketing, and whole new clientele. Our store had a fresh modern look and was twice
they credit the brands with accelerating the success they enjoy today. the size of the Kitchener location. The software industry was beginning
It has helped to teach them integrity, and what it ultimately takes to to take off in Waterloo,” says Greg.
become a successful brand. With this comes a better understanding
of the consumer and the importance of constant and consistent staff In 2002, the Buzbuzians purchased their building in Guelph which, was
training. built in the old Tudor fashion of the 1890s. Their store went from 1,000
square feet to 4,000 square feet on four floors. It incorporates a custom
Knar now represents several major jewellery brands such as Hearts on design studio, workshop and administrative offices. After the three-year
Fire, Mikimoto, Daniel K, Tacori and Scott Kay, to name a few. The renovation project was completed, the brothers threw a 25th anniversary
brothers always insist on their territories being protected. Focusing party that is still the talk of the town. The 900 guests that toured the
on major brands has particularly helped during the recent economic store were driven by a fleet of limos to a nearby performing arts centre
slowdown. “The brands often place huge demands on retailers, but that featured food stations, six bars, Brazilian dancers and acrobats, a
ultimately drive consumers to our doors,” says Greg. “The rest is up to live band, dancing and showcases full of jewellery. “Did I mention Elvis
us and a well trained sales force.” and Marilyn made surprise visits,” Jeff says fondly. “Again this party
proved that when you are able to embrace your customers, show them
After 10 years at the Kitchener location, with Guelph serving as head that we appreciate their business and let them know we are privileged to
office, the brothers closed the store and moved to Waterloo. “The be their jewellers, great things happen.”
downtown of Kitchener was deteriorating and so was our building.
When it rained, we placed five or six buckets strategically throughout the Knar has always been a great supporter of many worthwhile projects
store to catch the water,” says Greg. “Waterloo was nearby, with a great in all the communities they do business in. It supports local hospitals,
new building and great parking. There may not have been a Blackberry Rotary and cultural events. “It is our way of showing appreciation
back then. but with two major universities as our neighbour, we knew for the communities, showing our gratitude for the support we have
Waterloo was the place to be to continue to grow our business. Waterloo received over the many years of doing business,” says Jeff.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 57
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Knar’s best sellers are always Rolex and diamonds. “The bridal business to our trades people.” He adds that online purchasing is also a huge
is always good: engagement rings, wedding bands and anniversary bands issue but “we all must focus on our strengths and be the best that we can
are always popular. However, our custom work is consistently around be at that. Our focus will never be online sales as there are companies
20% which keeps us hopping 24/7,” says Jeff. exclusively focused on that. We know they are not focused on what we
do either.”
In order to track inventory according to their exacting standards, the
brothers developed their own software program 20 years ago. “No longer Jeff’s advice to anyone starting out in the business today is “Find your
having to rely on gut instinct, we learned most of our business sense niche, make sure you love people, love your craft and learn to love the
from the program,” says Jeff. “We now love math and love looking at science of retailing. It may seem cold and sometimes calculated but the
numbers. We may not have known a lot about computers, but knowing more time you spend studying it, the more of a warm fuzzy feeling you
about the jewellery business inside and out helped to write a very get from your success.” [CJ]
effective user-friendly system for jewellers!” It became so successful,
in fact, that some of North America’s most successful jewellers have
adopted the software program. The program was recently acquired by
another software company, Emforium, based in Waterloo; the product AT A GLANCE
is called All-In, and Emforium is developing a web based application for OAKVILLE GUELPH WATERLOO
the program to make it globally applicable. The Buzbuzbians still own 321 Cornwall Road 56 St. George’s Square 80 King Street South
a small percentage of the new enterprise, but now are more able to focus Oakville, ON Guelph Waterloo
on their first love, which is retailing. L6J 7Z5 N1H 4E6 N2J 1P5
Tel: (905) 815-8777 Tel: (519) 821-7982 Tel: (519) 888-9200
When asked what he thinks are the biggest issues facing the jewellery
industry today, Jeff answers “Getting good talents on the benches and WEBSITE: www.knarjewellery.com
good sales people on the sales floor. There should be more respect given
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 59
For example, in the last few years Apple has revolutionized technology,
making the company a highly recognizable and acclaimed industry
leader, evidenced by such product introductions as the iPod, iPhone,
iReader and most recently the iPad. Apple’s commitment to its core
attributes – design, innovation and imagination – is where it excells
and what makes it uniquely different from its competitors. As a result,
Apple’s products are highly anticipated and sought-after, taking the
world by storm even in an economic downturn.
The same can be said about Tiffany & Co., which reported a worldwide
sales increase of 22 per cent in the first quarter of 2010, and is forecasting
11 per cent sales growth for the balance of the year. Industry insiders cite
the company’s expansion into Asian and European markets as the reason.
Branding and marketing experts will argue it is because the 173-year-
60 CJ AUGUST 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
old company has remained true to its well-established brand – long The end result should be a strong brand identity that conveys feelings
synonymous with luxury, style, romance and impeccable quality – and about tangible and intangible values surrounding image, reputation, status
has resisted price discounting despite a retraction in consumer spending. and lifestyle. “The great luxury brands emanating from Italy are masters at
this,” says Torella. “The Italians seem to have branding in their souls.”
A recently released survey by Millward Brown Optimor, a global brand
strategy and financial consultancy firm, found that many of the world’s While larger chains and iconic brands have the advantage of bigger
most powerful brands fared well in 2009 despite tough economic times. budgets, how does an independent jeweller or small chain approach
On their top 10 list were established luxury brands with jewellery or branding? Anthony Stokan, a Toronto-based retail consultant and
watch collections, including Hermès, Gucci, Cartier and Tiffany. partner in Anthony Russell Inc., has been working with retailers large
and small for 24 years. He acknowledges that creating a strong brand for
What does having a strong brand have to do with this? According to retail a small specialty jeweller can be challenging, but stresses that points-
branding expert, John Torella, senior partner at J.C. Williams Group in of-difference can be established by focusing on reputation, business
Toronto, a strong brand is a financial asset and the reason why customers will longevity, quality products and trustworthy, knowledgeable servicing.
consider paying more for a product or service or visit one store over another. He goes on to say that when it comes to buying fine jewellery, customers
Torella, whose company has worked with retailers such as Tiffany & Co. and want to know they can trust their jeweller to help them make an
Birks, says that “not all jewellery retailers grasp the essence of branding.” informed decision.
“The notion that branding is nothing more than a well-designed logo is Offering custom designed or branded prestige merchandise are other
coming from a narrow focus on the topic,” says Torella. “A lot of what points of differentiation that Stokan, author of Naked Consumption:
retailers do in the branding area doesn’t work because they put the Retail Trends Uncovered, recommends. If custom design isn’t part of the
emphasis in the wrong areas. I always tell my retail clients ‘first you put unique product offering, Stokan sees well-developed prestige brands as
down roots, and then you spread your wings.’” a way jewellery retailers can set themselves apart. He says jewellers can
take advantage of the multi-million dollar marketing campaigns that back
To Torella, “putting down roots” means determining the company’s point- these brands. He cautions, however, that the core values and reputation of
of-difference or unique selling proposition. This initial discovery stage both the branded line and the retailer still need to be congruent.
requires deep soul searching, but once explored provides the foundation
from which the next phase can develop. It’s usually in the second and third “All specialty retailers need to do their homework and be true to who
phases that Torella suggests retailers work with a consultant – one that can they are in order to carve a niche for themselves – whether that niche
help them develop strategies to express their unique selling proposition is becoming known for an incredible selection of watches, meeting
through the design of the retailer’s store, promotional materials, product the needs of the bridal market or offering the best in custom designed
offering, pricing, customer service, logo and advertising. jewellery,” adds Stokan.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m AUGUST 2010 CJ 61
“There were a lot of companies named Reliable and we changed the name
to Christine Jewellers because it was more meaningful to our long-standing
customers, who have developed a close relationship with my mother,” says
Alex Kwong, who runs the family business with his 25-year-old brother,
Andrew, now that their parents are semi-retired. “We also felt the name
was more distinctive and one that a younger customer could relate to.”
In 1993, Steve and Christine Kwong started Reliable Jewellers in There is much that goes into building a strong brand that resonates with
Richmond, B.C., at a time when there were few other fine jewellery stores customers and makes them want to return time and time again, but Torella
in the area. Nine years later, the store went through a major rejuvenation says, “the key to good brand development is consistency.” [CJ]
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To fulfill the definition, a synthetic must have a natural counterpart. Newer materials that are being grown in laboratories have been entering
So if someone grows crystals of an entirely new compound, it really the market sporadically over the past century. Synthetic sapphires
doesn’t fit into the gemological definition. grown by the flame fusion process have been around for almost as long
as synthetic ruby, and they have properties similar to those of synthetic
Scientifically, if an entirely new compound is crystallized in a lab, then ruby. Synthetic spinel is interesting as it has generally been grown to
it is synthetic, in that it was synthesized from component parts that imitate other materials, and though it is synthetic spinel , it is considered
constitute a new whole. To the gemological world, the word is more an “imitation” or “simulant” because it has properties that are different
narrowly defined, and this would not fit as a gemological synthetic. from those of the diamond or aquamarine that it so often imitates.
To the public, “synthetic” means something fake. If someone purchases In 1938, U.S. scientist Carroll Chatham succeeded in developing a
a blouse made in a synthetic fabric, it is manufactured from a lab- process for growing synthetic emerald in a more complex, costly and
grown material that has no natural counterparts. Rayon may be used sophisticated way than the Verneuil process. Flame-fusion melt processes
to simulate silk, but has a different chemical composition and different are not capable of producing emerald, so a more complicated process
physical properties compared to that of silk. needed to be developed to produce synthetic emerald or Chatham
Created Emerald as that particular material is known.
To a gemologist, a synthetic sapphire is produced from aluminium
oxide under controlled laboratory conditions, and has properties that There are now laboratories in several countries growing synthetic
are comparable in most ways to the properties of a sapphire that was emerald by a flux process such as is used by Chatham, and also by the
mined from the earth. hydrothermal process.
Gemologists have been faced with the challenge of identifying synthetics Flux processes are used in the U.S., Russia, and China, to grow synthetic
for over a century. Auguste Verneuil, a French scientist, succeeded emerald, synthetic ruby, synthetic sapphire, synthetic alexandrite,
in developing a process for growing synthetic ruby. Verneuil’s flame synthetic spinel and a few other synthetics. The principal features are
fusion process was repeatable, was capable of quickly, inexpensively the same as the natural gems.
and efficiently producing large quantities of synthetic ruby, sapphire
and a few other materials. Flux synthetics, like most synthetics, lack natural inclusions, and
feature wavy, wispy looking whitish inclusions that are not isolated to a
Based on Verneuil’s work, gemologists can find truly antique synthetics single flat plane. Some can be seen to include hexagonal opaque metallic
in jewellery these days. It can be interesting, as a gemologist, to be able inclusions of platinum which is recrystallized residue from the crucible
to inform a proud owner of an antique ruby ring that the ring contains used to grow the synthetics.
a synthetic ruby, but that the ring is likely complete and original as it
was built. Hydrothermal synthetics are grown in several countries, and often
produce very clean specimens. High-pressure bomb autoclaves are
The intervening years have brought new synthetics and greater challenges used to produce hydrothermal synthetic emerald, synthetic
to the gemologist and the jewellery trade. For identification, we tend to aquamarine and a few other synthetics for gem use, plus all the
rely on visual guides in the form of inclusions and growth features that synthetic quartz used in clocks and watches, of which a little is grown
might be seen through the microscope. purple to be sold as amethyst.
Verneuil style synthetics are among the easiest to identify, frequently Hydrothermal synthetics are often very clean. These are generally grown
featuring identifiable curved growth lines and colour zones referred to on a thin plate of colourless material (colourless quartz seed plates for
as striae, and commonly containing spherical or elongated gas bubbles. amethyst, for example). Sometimes we can see thin vestiges of the seed
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 65
“unusual,
While there are other synthetics, and some that are quite
such as synthetic calcite and synthetic malachite,
for which there are no currently known identifying tests, these
are exceedingly rare.
”
plate in synthetics or running parallel to the table of polished stones. Polished synthetic diamonds are type II, and lack an important
There are often fine particles on the edge of the seed plate. absorption line in their spectrum, the line at 415nm in the blue is
present for most natural diamonds and is absent for synthetic diamonds.
Hydrothermal synthetic quartz often reveals whitish particles scattered Unfortunately this is difficult to find with a hand spectroscope.
within them, these are referred to as breadcrumb inclusions, because
that is what they look like. These whitish inclusions are never seen in More helpful in identifying synthetic diamonds are opaque shiny
natural quartz. metallic inclusions that are not found in natural diamonds. These are
iron or nickel, and can make the synthetics attractive to a magnet. If you
Hydrothermal synthetic emerald often shows unusual colourless zig- see inclusions like this, or find that a diamond is attracted to a magnet,
zag growth structure that is best seen with light shining through the it would be best to have it examined further at a lab with advanced
gem from beneath. An additional feature often seen in hydrothermal testing equipment for screening of synthetics.
synthetic quartz is what are referred to as nailhead inclusions. These are
tapered spaces that look cone shaped and usually have a small crystal While there are other synthetics, and some that are quite unusual, such as
or cluster of crystals at the wide end. Some students of the Canadian synthetic calcite and synthetic malachite, for which there are no currently
Gemmological Association have referred to them as ice-cream-cone known identifying tests, these are exceedingly rare. Other lab grown
inclusions, if that is a better description. materials are more commonly seen, such as synthetic moissanite and
synthetic cubic zirconia, but these are easily identified diamond simulants.
Opal is commonly synthesized, though there would be those who
might feel that this material doesn’t strictly fit within the definition of Synthetic moissanite has obvious double refraction that can be seen
synthetic, because its chemical composition and physical properties are through a loupe, and has greenish body colour, and cubic zirconia has a
not quite the same as natural opal. density that is twice that of diamond and substantially higher dispersion
than diamond that makes it display sparkles of spectral colours better
Synthetic opal is grown by a sedimentation process, and, due to than diamond.
the growth method, it has its play of colour in unusual column-like
structure that can be seen running the depth of the synthetic opal, Synthetics occupy a small part of the gem market, and while there are
unlike natural opal. many synthetics out there, they are almost all Verneuil synthetics, still
produced in large volumes and easily identified. It is always best to
Gem-quality synthetic diamond is grown in several countries, principally, remain aware of new products, and the big thing to be aware of for the
Russia, U.S., and China. It is grown in small quantities, and is usually immediate future is what developments will be in store to help those
yellow in colour, but can be pink, blue, red and, rarely, colourless. Its with simple equipment to identify synthetic diamonds. [CJ]
identification is a little more complex. If you see a crystal, it is easier to The Canadian Gemmological Association has been established for over half a century
identify because it will generally be a cube modified by an octahedron, as Canada’s prime gemological training organization, and is registered by the Ministry
not seen in natural gem diamonds. of Colleges, Universities and Training under the Private Career Colleges Act.
66 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
NEW
• DRIVE WEB TRAFFIC with newly launched online marketing
program. Web traffic is up 63%, between 9-12,000 visitors per month.
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• LIST YOUR COMPANY on www.canadianjewellers.com directory
and increase visits on your website up to 47%. Member listings were
For details, write #129 on Free Info Page, page 120.
Men’s Jewellery:
This Time, It’s Personal
Male clients are showing increasing interest in cufflinks, pendants
and rings… as long as they have a personal touch.
By Sarah B. H ood
When it comes to buying jewellery, the male customer may need a little “We have a patented Dura tungsten,” he says. “At Stuller, about 40 per
more encouragement than his female counterpart, but the modern cent of the wedding band units sold are in tungsten. Now that they’ve
gentleman is becoming a little bit more adventurous, and is showing a been working with that metal for a while, we’ve been finding ways to
strong interest in items to which he feels a personal connection. Perhaps manipulate it into other shapes and forms. We launched a collection,
as an accompaniment to his electronic accessories, he’s looking for and we had no idea the reaction we would have, because people think
clean, contemporary, masculine and distinctive choices, whether they’re of Stuller as a gold and silver house; people were a bit surprised. The
classic pieces or innovative designs in modern metals. price points are 25 per cent to 30 per cent of what a gold or silver
piece would be. We can put out a really good piece – even set with
This is true at all price points. “The market has opened up,” declares diamonds – in the hundreds rather than the thousands.”
Michael Sapir of Mirage in Toronto. “The demand for diamonds has
opened up, and men’s diamond jewellery is definitely coming back.” “With the contemporary metals, we’ve moved away from the structured
German look to something that’s more artisanal,” says Clarke. “We’ve
“This has really evolved over the past few years,” says Nella Tobia, store been able to combine two and three, so you might see a steel base with
director at Tiffany Bloor Street in Toronto. “It’s a very modern way of a tungsten element, and we’re able to work with colours.”
thinking for a gentleman to be approaching the accessory and jewellery
portion of his lifestyle.” At Tiffany, “We go from sterling silver to oxydized silver; titanium has
been a very strong modern metal for us. It is very lightweight and it will
At the recent JCK show in Las Vegas, “the unbelievably overwhelming not change in its appearance. It is especially ideal in rings and cufflinks,
thing was the alternative metals,” says Michael Clarke, vice-president since it doesn’t change in chlorine or seawater,” says Tobia. “We offer
of finished jewellery with Stuller. He suggests the term “contemporary stainless steel, which is a very sustainable metal and has been with
metal” may be preferable to “alternative,” in order not to imply that Tiffany from the very beginning. We also offer enamel, which adds a
metals such as stainless steel, titanium, tungsten or even ceramics are little colour. It’s very luxurious and a little fragile, but on a cufflink, it
inferior alternatives to gold, platinum and silver. just adds a little element of distinction.”
68 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
“We use black onyx in a cufflink, and it’s a very masculine, modern form gane. “It’s a Japanese technique,” he explains. “You put several layers of
of cufflink,” says Tobia. Tiffany attracts the eye of its male clientele with different metal together and you cut it and roll it to make a pattern.” The
numerous high-end designer lines like Elsa Peretti, Frank Gehry and result resembles wood grain.
Paloma Picasso, as well as longstanding classic items. “We recognize that
men admires accessories; they enjoy the experience at Tiffany because He shows a work in progress, a men’s ring that combines sterling silver
they’ve been here for other pieces as well. Frank Gehry I think has really and shakudo, an alloy of copper with gold – in this case green gold –
captivated the likes of our gentleman clients distinctly and impressively; with an interior of 14k white gold. “It’s not a new technique; it’s from the
his work is very architectural, very masculine.” ’70s,” says Fernandez. “But now there is a lot of interest in it because it’s
not that easy to make.”
Melissa Aragón, co-owner of Taraxca, in Vancouver, says she finds that
“stainless steel is what the men are really interested in. They come in and
ask for titanium and tungsten as well.” Rings, pendants and especially
cufflinks are seeing growth in demand, she says. “Cufflinks are coming
back; they’re having a real resurgence right now,” says Aragón. She
names onyx as an especially popular stone, a taste that is also reflected Tiffany Knots cuff links in 18k
yellow gold, CDN$2,350.
at Tiffany. For Aragón, the most popular men’s item is the ring, usually
very simple in design.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 69
JCK Jewellers Choice Award Winner; sterling silver and 14k yellow gold Stainless steel cufflinks with a carbon fibre design
diamond cufflinks from Stuller. on the front from Taraxca.
Michael Sapir sees an increase in demand for cufflinks featuring “It’s very, very important to have it visible,” concurs Clarke. “Very often,
diamonds and sapphires. Clients who are seeking gifts for men will men’s jewellery is hidden off in the back. I think it’s important to position
tend to choose cufflinks, he says, even up to the $2,000 price point. it as one of the fashion offerings. Jewellery should be gender neutral. The
“I think people would like to buy a $2,000 cufflink more than a $2,000 most important thing is to be aware of what men’s current styling is: take
gold chain,” he says. “Or instead of a $50,000 gold chain or a watch a look at GQ and Esquire. When you see someone looking like they read
they are buying a $2,000 cufflink. They are looking more for the those magazines, they will be someone you can interest in jewellery.”
original design, and I think that men are collecting cufflinks. I think
that the important factor is to present it more as a collector piece than Aragón also acknowledges that, “Men are usually a little more insecure
anything else.” Sapir says animal motifs are also popular. in the beginning, so they need a little encouragement. I hate to say it,
but there are definitely some issues about being manly and wearing
“It’s a small but dedicated crowd; it’s a collector crowd,” affirms Clarke. jewellery.” [CJ]
“The ones who will wear cufflinks want multiple pairs. Even in the
business casual, men are wearing cufflinks to work without a jacket. They
want something fun – the extreme would be the skull and crossbones,
but you might have a sports or nautical motif, or even just a freeform
Men's Jewellery Advertisers in this issue
design.” (Pendants – while not quite attaining to the popularity they knew
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with the birthstones and the children’s names engraved on it,” he says. w: www.crownring.com
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Ed Hardy Canada t: 800.661.4460
No matter what the piece, though, the personal element – what Clarke t: 877.775.8676 w: www.rousseauchain.com
refers to as “an absolutely identifiable symbol of the wearer” – is w: www.edhardyjewelry.ca Shiny Jewellers
essential. This may take the form of initials, a symbol of allegiance (to Hammer Group t: 416.367.0707
a nation or a sports team, for example), or a purely personal expression t: 416.598.1467 w: www.shinyjewellers.com
that is customized to the individual. And, he says, “the importance of Siffari
Jomark t: 416.441.1010
having the classics is always going to be paramount: the monogrammed t: 905.264.0400 w: www.siffari.com
cufflink and the monogrammed ring.”
J.S.N. Jewellery Stuller
t: 905.660.3277 t: 337.262.7700
Sapir adds that whatever men’s jewellery items you sell, they should be w: www.canadianicediamonds.com w: www.stuller.com
in the window. “Men don’t usually go inside the store to shop, so if you
La Brea World's Gold and Diamond
are going to present something, you should present it in the window,” t: 800.463.1046 t: 866.569.2678
says Sapir. “They are more susceptible to the impulse purchase than w: www.labrea.ca w: www.lowcostleader.com
women are.”
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A
lthough you might not hear much about it, jewellery that is footprint of purchased jewellery, documenting each component to its
environmentally conscious (eco-friendly is the colloquial term) is source. Although it says its jewellery is “mostly” green (nothing can ever be
fast becoming a hit among consumers. Aside from its ethical and 100 per cent), a Green Assay piece comes with a tracking tag linked to this
sustainable message, it also falls into a different price bracket, making information (and accessed through the Internet) so that “consumers may
it a hit with the younger demographic on two fronts. Nevertheless, a better evaluate [a] purchase through the lens of [their] own values.”
key challenge facing this category is defining what, in fact, being
eco-friendly means. Retail Responsibility
Attention is also steadily shifting to focus on what retailers and mining
What Qualifies and Who Governs This? companies themselves do to promote sustainability in the trade,
For some, the basic tenet of eco-friendly jewellery is that it is made from regardless of whether or not they actually design or manufacture end
recycled materials. On one end of the spectrum, it can be very costume-y, products. For example, Rio Tinto-owned Diavik Diamond Mines in
produced from knick-knacks such as recycled music records, or it can the Northwest Territories has an ongoing comprehensive sustainable
be very high end, made from reclaimed wood meshed with stainless development policy (required in Canada for mining approval) that
steel or even eco-gold reprocessed from existing supplies rather than ensures, among other stipulations, the protection and monitoring of
from mining operations. This jewellery is made from natural or recycled wildlife and the active improvement of the surrounding communities,
non-toxic materials that don’t negatively affect the environment or the especially among the large Aboriginal populations. A great model for
miners and artisans who helped create it. Although there are strong any retailer to follow is Tiffany & Co.’s sustainability practices. The
socioeconomic reasons tied to mining and the dawn of this eco-friendly company has long been a crusader for environmental and social causes
trend, the important thing to note (at least in this context) is that it’s related to responsible mining and retailing (a portion of its website is
a step in the right direction for this new sub-section of jewellery as a dedicated to this issue). The company promises to “actively [oppose]
whole. For example, Toronto-based Pueblito has established a guideline inappropriate mine development and human rights violations. At
the brand uses when discussing and identifying eco-friendly jewellery. the same time, [to] uphold conservation principles in environments
Among its values is the company’s commitment to using only materials for which sustainability is a concern.” The Tiffany & Co. Foundation
that are collected in a sustainable manner (no clear-cutting, etc.) and, provides grants to non-profit organizations dedicated to environmental
most important, in a way that provides an alternative source of income and cultural preservation, coral conservation, responsible mining and
to communities from which they are drawn. There are advocacy groups design and the decorative arts. These business practices can be easily
for a variety of sustainable causes related to mining and sourcing raw applied to any retail model, from setting standards for business partners
materials, but no one group that actually qualifies or deems a product to simple tasks such as energy conversation in-store.
like jewellery (unlike personal-care products or food) as eco-friendly.
However, one Houston-based company, greenKarat, is working on it. What It Looks Like
Despite the fact that it doesn’t approve of Canada’s mining policies, the Here’s a roundup of this new sub-culture of new-wave jewellery on the
company’s Green Assay project is commendable. It tracks the ecological market right now.
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Citizen Eco-Drive proves that style and sustainability can co-exist with
ecologically-friendly timepieces. The technology converts light into
stored energy to power the watch for at least six months, even in the
dark. The company’s new collection, the World Perpetual A•T, features
a sapphire glass crystal and a radio-controlled analogue world timer,
redefining timekeeping with accuracy in North America, Europe, Japan
and China. It has a stainless steel rose and gold-tone case, brown leather
strap and a white dial with a 42.8mm case. (Suggested Retail: $450)
This 18k white gold ring by San Francisco-based Brilliant Earth features
an intricately detailed centre vine of pavé diamond accents and milgrain
detail scrolling between two brilliant diamond bands with 0.40tcw. The
company tracks all its gems to ensure they are mined, cut and finished
in a socially and ethically responsible manner. All diamonds come from
Canadian mines that follow environmentally sustainable practices.
Brilliant Earth also dedicates five per cent of its profits to directly benefit
African communities harmed by the diamond industry. (Suggested
Retail: US$2,350)
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 73
Pandora, in collaboration with the Rainforest Protection Initiative ApS, has also
launched recent additions to its line of eco-bead charms as part of its Moments
collection. The exotic wood charms are produced in accordance with the Canopy
Wood Code of Conduct for responsible forestry as well as the Forest Stewardship
Council standards. This double braided leather bracelet has a 14k gold clasp
featuring a selection of exotic wood beads mixed with 14k gold charms. (Suggested
Retail: $1,590; beads retail for $40 each)
New York-based Prismera Design is blazing a trail with Eco Steel. The
most recycled material in the world, steel is reused more than aluminum,
glass and paper combined. Its low-maintenance nature is also a definite
plus, making it a solid choice for starter lines and a younger clientele,
not to mention, it allows for less expensive price points. (Suggested
Retail: $64)
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N
orth America’s first producing diamond mine was Ekati, which
opened in 1998. Located approximately 300 kilometres northeast
of Yellowknife – officially known as the diamond capital of North
America – Ekati yields between three and five million carats of rough
diamonds annually. Nearby, the Diavik mine was the second to be established.
It opened five years later in 2003, around the same time Polar Ice Diamonds
came onto the scene.
“When Polar Ice was created we entered into an agreement with the
Northwest Territories government and the two mines,” says Cathy
McMurray, marketing director for Polar Ice, Canada’s first government-
certified diamond producer. “Ekati and Diavik had to sell a certain
percentage of their rough to Canadian manufacturers, so we bought into
cutting facilities in Yellowknife and started to cut our first Canadian
diamonds.”
Polar Ice also begun sourcing rough from a third mine, Snap Lake. Remotely
located in the Canadian Arctic, the country’s first completely underground
diamond mine is predominantly only accessible by plane throughout the year,
making the bling beneath the ground a hot commodity.
“From this land, known for its icy vastness, comes the most exquisite diamonds
of unique beauty,” says McMurray. Now in its seventh year of operation, Polar Ice
is still as tough as the diamonds that are mined. Unlike most other brands that
have since entered Canada’s diamond industry – McMurray estimates there are
“First Light” 0.20 carat, more than 40 today – Polar Ice remains a 100 per cent wholly Canadian company.
14k white gold pendant.
Part of the Polar Group – whose brands also include jewellery manufacturer
and wholesaler The Basal Group, Princebella (a collection of unusual cuts of
diamonds, primarily coloured) and Polar Bear Diamonds (acquired in fall
2004) – Polar Ice maintains offices in the urban hubs of Toronto and Montreal,
with a collective staff 18 strong that includes three in-house jewellery designers.
It also manufactures its entire diamond jewellery line – from engagement
rings, anniversary bands, bridal sets, gent’s rings and solitaires to pendants
and earrings – in Canada, which is available at more than 300 retailers. This,
McMurray says, places Polar Ice a cut above its competition.
76 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
“Canada
People appreciate that our jewellery is made in
because if anything needs to be repaired,
it can be done so quite quickly.
”
However, Polar Ice has since stopped cutting diamonds in Canada “Generally, when diamond mines are first producing, you see a lot of really
to become more competitive in the current marketplace. Moving nice goods come out,” explains McMurray. “At the moment, Canada is a
this component of the business offshore has been beneficial as it has baby in the mining department, so the diamonds are beautiful.” They’re
broadened the company’s diamond size offerings. Under the Northwest also conflict-free, which is another reason these precious stones are in
Territories government certificate program, diamonds can be no less such high demand. Unlike those from African countries like Angola,
than 0.2 carats in weight, which, McMurray says, placed Polar Ice at a Congo and Sierra Leone, where profits from unregulated trade are used to
significant disadvantage. fund armed conflicts that have resulted in the death of tens of thousands
of innocent civilians, Canadian diamonds are not obtained through
“Our competition was cutting much smaller, so in order for us to cut the use of violence or human rights abuses. Today, almost all conflict-
what we wanted to cut, we had to get out of the Northwest Territories free diamonds originate from Canada, which are verifiable through an
agreement, which we’ve done,” she explains. “Now we’re able to cut as independent auditing system. Each Polar Ice diamond is provided with
small as a five pointer.” As an added bonus, McMurray continues, a Canadian Diamond Code of Conduct serial number that is lasered
cutting offshore is less expensive – a five per cent to 10 per cent savings by microscopic laser on the girdle of the stone. It also comes with a
the company passes on to its jewellery retailers. Today, Polar Ice certificate of authenticity. Lasered with a maple leaf, this certificate not
jewellery retails for $499 and up, making bridal jewellery – the only guarantees the diamond’s place of origin (where it was mined) but
company’s primary focus – more affordable. This is good news for its quality of manufacture. “Our diamonds meet or surpass the highest
jewellery businesses, as more and more young women are looking for standards for cut, clarity and colour,” says McMurray.
not only larger but homegrown diamond engagement rings.
To educate consumers on its commitment to maintaining the highest
“The younger generation wants to buy locally produced goods and that standards, Polar Ice supports retailers with a comprehensive package of
includes diamonds,” says McMurray. “They also want bigger stones. Ten marketing materials. This includes posters, postcards, point-of-purchase
years ago a 1.5 carat would only sell in the United States, but now we sell displays and duratans. Further, the company is dedicated to remaining in
them all the time.” the public eye and will continue to partner with world-renowned companies
like De Beers as it did in 2008, for the Nature of Diamonds exhibit at the
As consumers become more sophisticated in their gem choices, Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. In town for six months, the most wide-
Canadian diamonds continue to dazzle the jewellery industry ranging exhibition ever developed on the allure of diamonds showcased
worldwide. In less than 20 years, the brilliant precious stones that approximately 500 brilliant pieces drawn from private collections, major
were first discovered in the remote treeless tundra of the Northwest museums from around the world and lenders such as Polar Ice.
Territories have made Canada a major player in the international
diamond scene. Today, the country better known for its abundance of “Our goal is to stand out from the rest of the brands that have flooded the
lumber and oil reserves is now the third largest supplier of these rare marketplace,” says McMurray. “In the last few years, a lot of companies
natural treasures. And not just any diamonds, but some of the most have come out of the woodwork and, as a result, there is a lot confusion
sought-after stones in the world. surrounding what is truly Canadian.” And Polar Ice most certainly is. [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 77
On the Lookout
Canadian jewellery sales have shown
T
otal jewellery sales in Canada were up by nearly seven per cent
during the January-April 2010 period, according to new data
a solid rebound during the first four from Statistics Canada. This is a sharp turn-around from last
year, when jewelery sales fell by almost nine per cent in the same four-
months of 2010, after slumping month period. Mall jewellery sales in Canada were up by about eight per
for most of 2009. The recovery in cent during the first four months of 2010 versus the same period in 2009,
based on data from the International Council of Shopping Centers. Mall
jewellery demand is being driven by jewellery sales fell by over four per cent in 2009, somewhat less than
a strengthening Canadian economy. total jewellery sales. Traditionally, mall sales are relatively stronger than
non-mall sales, since malls represent a destination location for a variety
of reasons including social, recreational, and shopping activities.
B y Ken Gassman
High Correlation Between Economic Cycles and Jewellery Demand
When the economy weakens, jewellery sales typically lead the decline;
when the recovery begins, jewellery sales usually recover a little later
than the economy, but bounce solidly higher as economic growth
accelerates. During the current economic cycle, Canadian jewellery
sales have lagged the general economic recovery by about two quarters.
80 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Quarter
Sales Increase
Year
82 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Month
The graph below summarizes Canada’s Gross Domestic Product by Outlook: Sales Up, But Trend Choppy
quarter beginning in 2008. It is clear that the Canadian economy The global economic recovery is underway, led by Canada’s trading
was sputtering along in 2008, sagged significantly in early 2009, and partner to the south: the U.S. This is good news for Canada since these
began its recovery in the second half of 2009. Preliminary figures two countries’ economic cycles correlate closely. While the economies of
for the first quarter of 2010 indicate that the economic recovery is some other geopolitical regions of the world continue to languish, both
continuing. the Canadian and the U.S. economy are in a recovery mode.
Sales Up in 2010 However, it is likely that the recovery in retail sales will be choppy: up
After languishing in 2008, Canadian jewellery sales plummeted one month and sluggish the next. In part, this is reflective of the current
in 2009, along with the economy and most other retail categories. economic recovery which has not been as strong as the typical recovery
The graph below summarizes annual jewellery sales trends for the cycles. In part, it is due to stubbornly high unemployment levels in
Canadian market since 2006 through the first four months of 2010. Canada and the U.S.
It illustrates the high correlation between economic cyclicality and
jewellery demand. We do not believe that there will be a double-dip recession; the economic
fundamentals are simply too strong to allow the Canadian economy to
While most jewellery merchants would like to forget 2009, it wasn’t all slump near term.
bad. Canadian jewellers enjoyed a solid sales rebound in December 2009
– the all-important holiday selling season. Since then, sales comparisons The 2010 holiday selling period will be robust. Consumers are expected
have been positive, though a bit uneven, as the graph below illustrates. to step up their spending by year-end due to falling unemployment levels
The blue line summarizes “all jewellery sales” by all merchants who sell and rising wages. If jewellers expect to entice shoppers into their stores,
jewellery. The red line summarizes “mall jewellery sales” primarily by they will need to stock up on new, unique jewellery merchandise; this
specialty jewellers. will give consumers a reason to come into jewellery shops. [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 83
F
or Canadian small business owners, the past year has been Even in the midst of a recession, or perhaps because of it, small business
demanding to say the least. The fun in running your own owners were willing to take a number of risks to keep their business
business doesn’t lie in letting people go, or chasing customers going. About a third said they were willing to use their personal assets
to pay their bills, or trying to negotiate better deals from suppliers. But to cover costs. Almost the same number reported they would use their
those necessary evils have all been a bigger part of the job for small line of credit to pay creditors if need be. And more than half (55 per
business owners in the last year or two. So what keeps them going? An cent) said last summer that the recession was pushing them to accelerate
unwavering belief that the benefits of owning their own business is effort towards innovation.
worth it, and an optimism that better days are ahead.
Small business owners have strong survival instincts, but much of
The American Express Small Business Monitor has been surveying their willingness to take risks was likely premised on their belief that a
small business owners across Canada for the past year, and owners have recovery was/is in the distance. A jump in measured optimism speaks
reported taking a variety of measures to deal with the recession. One in to that belief: in the latest Monitor, released in March, 54 per cent of
four had to cut staff. Almost half reported that they had implemented small business owners said they were hopeful that their financial
cost-saving techniques such as pay freezes. Owners even dipped into position would improve in the future. That’s up from 40 per cent in
their own pockets to reward their employees at year-end. March 2009.
84 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
“year.
Four out of five businesses said that they expect to take on more business in next
Almost 60 per cent expect to expand the scope of their business and 57 per cent
plan to invest in new equipment or other capital spending.
”
“If you are in business for yourself, you’d better be an optimist,” says Four out of five businesses said that they expect to take on more business
Dwight Boyd, who has been making boats for 30 years. Boyd owns in the next year. Almost 60 per cent expect to expand the scope of their
Clarion Boats in Campbellford, Ontario. Although mahogany boats business, and 57 per cent plan to invest in new equipment or other
that can cost as much as half a million dollars can be a bit of a tough sell capital spending. For all of those plans, a supportive and experienced
during a recession, Boyd is positive when looking to the future. group of employees is vital to success.
“As the economy turns, we have plenty of stock, we will recall the One thing that has held strong over the turmoil of the last year is the
employees that we laid off.” More than a third of companies that laid sentiment that at the end of the day, owning your own business is worth
people off found that they were then understaffed in the first quarter the challenges that come along with it. More than three-quarters of
of this year. Recognizing their employees were working harder, small respondents said in the last quarter the benefits made it all worthwhile,
business owners made sure they worked to keep staff happy and the same level as a year earlier. That’s not to say that the last year hasn’t
motivated. They found creative ways to make sure their employees’ hard been stressful – respondents said the economy caused them stress
work was acknowledged. throughout the year. But the numbers have improved. In March of last
year, 66 per cent of survey respondents said they were stressed by the
“It doesn’t make a difference what’s happening with the economy. economy, a number that has since dropped to 56 per cent.
Employees need to be recognized,” says Pat Harris of Trenton, Ontario.
Harris, who owns Paradigm Financial Services, a business tax and The best indicator that conditions for small businesses in Canada are
consulting company, and her employees celebrated year-end with improving comes from American Express’s Small Business Index. When
dinner and a night at a comedy club. And she was able to also give them combining measures of confidence, performance and small business
bonuses. owner attitudes, the Index rose to C, or 65 per cent in the March survey,
an incremental yet steady improvement from C- or 61 per cent in March
Another small business owner held a party for his employees as he 2009. The change captures both the difficult realities of business in the last
normally would – but to pay for it he started working extra hours year, as well as improving optimism and confidence in business growth.
and putting money aside several months in advance.
“We started our business in the toughest economy in recent memory and
Owners recognize that their employees are their greatest assets, and that we’ve made sacrifices,” said Melissa Thibodeau, owner of BuyCanadian
when the economy starts to improve, having trained and experienced First.ca, in Montreal. “But the fact is, we have grown our business.”
employees will be key. Some small businesses have already started to
see growth – 17 per cent reported in the March 2010 American Express Needless to say, it’s evident that small business owners are almost always
survey that their business has grown significantly and that they need optimists by definition. They know that no matter the climate there will
more staff. be challenges, so they charge ahead. [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 85
T
he mood at the JCK Las Vegas Show in June was upbeat, with
manufacturers reporting brisk sales, not unexpectedly, after a
year of under stocking due to the global financial crisis an its
effect on the luxury goods market. JCK Events (Luxury by JCK, Swiss
Watch by JCK and JCK Las Vegas) reports a strong finish, with a 20 per
cent increase in retailer buying attendance over 2009, and many buyers
reporting substantial business. More than 20,000 retail buyers visited
the show, including 600 VIP retailer stores. International participation
increased by 23 per cent, with the largest concentration from India,
Russia, Canada, Britain, Mexico and South America – placing the JCK
Las Vegas Show alongside Baselworld as an important international
event for the jewellery and watch industry.
86 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
ISRAEL 5 : 0 0 P M
Cutter checks parameters online with
GIA Facetware® Cut Estimator.
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Wholesaler views grading results and requests
additional services online at My Laboratory.
NEW YORK
10:00 A M
GIA Master Color Comparison Diamonds
confirm color quality of a fancy yellow.
CARLSBAD
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Laboratory technicians calibrate Staff gemologist submits new findings on
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the day’s production begins.
BANGKOK 9:00 P M
Gemologist confers with Carlsbad lab
about ruby country of origin.
All across the planet, GIA labs and gemological reports are creating a common language for accurate, unbiased gemstone
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88 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Scott Kay, Teaneck, N.J., (which exhibited at the Couture Show at the
nearby Wynn Hotel), introduced a new collection made with an alloyed
cobalt, a material used in prostheses that is hypoallergenic and on par
with palladium in terms of colour and durability – but at a fraction of
the price of palladium. According to Kay, a band that would cost $3,000
in palladium would cost $300 in cobalt. Kay also introduced several new
bridal collections at the Couture Show.
JCK Las Vegas 2011 will take place on June 3-6, with Luxury by JCK
to take place May 31-June 2, 2011 (preceding JCK Las Vegas) at its new
venue, Mandalay Bay. For more information on JCK Events, please visit Luminaire, from the Scott Kay
www.jckshows.com. [CJ] Bridal Collection.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 89
By Carol Besler
E
xhibitors at Charm, the May version of the Vicenza Fair, again by 20 per cent. But fortunately, the [US] dollar against the Euro
demonstrated plenty of innovation and fair pricing, despite is improving. It will be ideal when the value is one to one.” Jack Zybert
the price of gold and the lingering global economic crisis that of Zydo, Valenza, concurs, “The price of gold is a problem, but 90 per
has hurt the luxury industry. cent of our price depends on diamonds. The dollar is getting strong
compared to the Euro, so that is good for exports of Italian goods in
The spring edition of Vicenza is traditionally geared to the domestic all segments.” Ditri noted that Italian gold jewellery exports in volume
market, but as exhibitors were preparing to attend JCK Las Vegas terms had fallen by five per cent in January/February, compared with
two weeks later, many displayed brand new collections geared to the the same period in 2009.
North American market. Overseas buyers who did attend Charm
were lucky enough to have a preview of the latest innovations from In general, exhibitors reflected a positive mood and emphasized that
prestigious Italian makers. “We always have something new at since inventory levels are low, jewellers are now beginning to restock.
this show, because it’s quiet,” says Roberta Brognoli, from Talento. “There are now a lot of shops buying – after a pause,” says Jack Zybert
“There is more time to talk and you have to have something new to of Zydo, Valenza (which has a New York City office). “People are
talk about. We renew our collections two times a year; people need to asking for something new. The economy can be the best in the world,
see you are working.” Charm hosts 1,400 exhibitors from 54 Italian but if you are full of old inventory, you will not sell anything. It’s time
provinces and 30 foreign countries. to invest again.”
Italian gold and silver jewellery exports are showing signs of recovery The impact of the global financial crisis has been especially ravaging
after a prolonged downturn, benefiting from increased revenues due for Italian jewellery artisans, who are attempting to recapture the
to the higher price of gold, according to Roberto Ditri, president of market by creating a “Made in Italy” brand. It is hoped that the
the Vicenza Fair. “For the Italian goldsmith and jewellery sector, in quality hallmark will help to differentiate the craftsmanship and
the first two months of 2010 it is estimated that there was a nine per design superiority of Italian jewellery and distinguish it from cheaper
cent increase in the value of exports, attributed almost exclusively to copies coming from Asia, particularly China. In addition, since the
increases in list prices due to rises in the price of gold,” Ditri said in Italian industry is fragmented, with many family-owned artisanal
an opening address at Charm. “There is a problem with the price of companies based in traditional manufacturing centres such as
gold,” says Fabrizio Capra, of Giorgio Visconti. “We increased the Vicenza and Valenza, the “Made In Italy” mark is a way of marketing
price in February by about five per cent and we have just increased it these companies together under one banner.
90 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Some of the delights on display included the following, much of which was shown in new collections:
Pavé Everywhere
The micro-pavé look extends now to coloured gemstones, with ribbons
of pavé in tsavorite garnet, amethyst and ruby and sapphire, a look that
has not been seen for many years.
Stackable
The concept of layering offers a solution to a market that seems to be
transitional and floundering between low and high end, with no middle
left. Starting with small, collectible, stackable rings or bangles (with
narrow shanks, for lighter weight and cost) gives consumers the option
of turning a small look into a big look in the future, transforming a
modest purchase into an aspirational purchase and consolidating future
sales. Marco Bicego is a pioneer of the stackable/layering concept, and
this year introduced a new flexible bangle as part of the Jaipur collection,
Flexible bangle from the Jaipur Collection by Marco Bicego. with special-cut gemstones.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 91
Wide Assortments
Small, medium, large and varied centre stones, with or without diamond
side stones, in any desired metal reflects the newly expanded flexibility
and assortment being made available in manufacturers’ collections.
Roberto Coin, for example, did not introduce anything that was not
available in multiple sizes and options, from what he terms “democratic”
to red-carpet worthy. Nanis also displayed a wide assortment with lots of
options: “We cover all pockets and age groups,” says company principle
Laura Bicego.
Rings from the Capri Plus collection by Roberto
Coin, paved with diamonds in varying colours.
Unusual Pieces
Anything unique is sought-after at the moment, a ref lection of the
strength of the high-end segment. Mattia Cielo, for example, showed
the very unusual Armadillo ring, with four components, paved in
sapphires, that are attached by springs, allowing them to collapse under
a central dome.
Armadillo ring in diamond and sapphire pavé,
by Mattia Cielo.
Accessible Amethyst
Also popular (as ever) are heart and f lower motifs, doublets, and
interchangeable/convertible pieces – one necklace with several options Amethyst and diamond ring
by Alfieri & St. John.
for centre stones, for example, or with silk cords in various colours.
Accessible amethyst is a hot gem at the moment. [CJ]
92 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
cjAugust 10MirageNOva.indd 1
7/22/10 2:47:53 PM
Golden Boy
Yossi Harari resurrects the art of handcrafted jewellery.
B Y BONNIE SIEGLER
A
young Yossi Harari grew up in Israel and Turkey surrounded elegant ring. The ring came out so beautifully that my mother still wears
by beautiful and ancient artifacts, so it came as no surprise it all the time. I always loved designing jewellery and I wanted to create
that an eleven year-old Yossi redesigned his mother’s five-carat a ring for her, giving it a new identity.
emerald cut diamond ring, a piece that she still wears 34 years later.
The rest is jewellery history. Harari went to the United States to study CJ: What was your next endeavor in jewellery design?
at the Gemological Institute of America in Carlsbad, Calif., for a year,
receiving formal training and degrees in gemology and jewellery design, YH: I always knew I wanted to become a jewellery designer. After
only to return to Tel Aviv where he lives today with his partner, Yaron. graduating from the GIA in 1990, I returned to Israel where I started to
In 1991, Yossi opened an atelier in Istanbul, crediting his heritage with do sketches, and four weeks later, these sketches were transformed into
the boutique location. “Both of my parents are Turkish and I grew up jewellery. It was the beginning of my career.
there. It is where I gained knowledge of handcrafting jewellery, allowing
me to give back to my heritage,” he explains. In fact, his handcrafted CJ: How did you use your Israeli influences to create some of your
designs use 2,000-year-old techniques, and no two pieces are exactly unique designs?
alike. With exotic and trendy designs, Harari has captured the look of
symmetry by combining modern and timeless looks while the materials YH: I use my Mediterranean influences which are Turkish and Israeli.
remain sensual and strong. It’s this look that has made Harari a sought- The most important reference would be the handcrafting of the jewellery,
after jeweller for some of Hollywood’s A-list crowd, who look for his which is part of our history. The collection named Jerusalem is inspired
unique handcrafted designs to wear on the red carpet or a night out on by the Wailing Wall.
the town.
CJ: You use a variety of metals – which ones do you prefer?
Canadian Jeweller (CJ): You had a certain flair and vision at just 11 years
of age with the redesign of your mother’s ring. YH: I use 24k gold because I want to remain faithful to the art of
handcraft ing. I also use gilver, which is a mix between sterling silver
Yossi Harari (YH): I came up with the idea of setting the five carats of and gold and then is oxidized. The contrast between gold and oxidized
diamonds into a more casual and wearable, but at the same time, very gilver is very interesting to work with.
94 CJ AUGUST 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
CJ: I see you use a variety of pearls, diamonds and gemstones. Any funky – yet timeless. Each piece is one-of-a-kind; I create them with the
specific ones you prefer using? essence to become Art. All the pieces are limited and never produced
in quantities.
YH: I use a lot of different gemstones. I like to play with combining the
colours and mixing them together. Rose-cut diamonds are my favorite CJ: You have won various awards over the years, many for the Sarah
because of the organic look. Regarding pearls, I really like both South Cuff, Helen Ring, Wild Rose Ring and Helen Necklace. Is there a special
Sea gold pearls as well as the Tahitian black pearls. All of these gems significance related to a Helen or Sarah?
compliment 24k gold.
YH: I named these two collections after two ladies that have always
CJ: What continues to inspire you about the Mediterranean region, collected and appreciated Yossi Harari Fine jewellery. It was a way
and how do these inspirations show through in your designs? to show them my love and gratitude. The inspiration for these two
collections came from my love of designing jewellery. Both have the
YH: The entire Mediterranean region inspires me. From Egypt to Greece, Yossi Harari look and signature, which is the gold combined with the
from Israel to Turkey, the whole area is a source of inspiration. Simple oxidized Gilver set with rose-cut diamonds.
shapes and free forms are featured in my designs and are a contemporary
look of the region. CJ: Your celebrity client list runs from Celine Dion, Demi Moore and
Anne Hathaway to the younger stars such as Miley Cyrus and Leighton
CJ: I know you use ancient techniques dating back some 2,000 years. What Meester. Why do you think your designs cross over generations?
techniques are these and how do you implement them into your work?
YH: There is no right or wrong age to wear jewellery.
YH: These techniques are old and a secret! The only thing I can tell you is
that everything is handcrafted and the secret has been given from father CJ: What do you think is the upcoming trend in jewellery designs?
to son. We do not use any wax carving or any casting.
YH: I think black jewellery is a major thing at the moment, which
CJ: How do you combine the modern look of your pieces with the I started doing five years ago. Jewellery will be more art-oriented,
timelessness of your native land? being unique in its selection of gems, as well as in the way to use and
mix materials.
YH: Our life is always in motion, so it is about modern-day versatility.
The constant movement – jet-setting, networking, traveling – is part CJ: What is your next collection?
of our reality and it is well represented in my jewellery. My pieces are
offered in various versions, and there are many different ways to wear YH: This year marks my tenth-year anniversary so I am introducing some
the same piece. The movement is very contemporary, easy, wearable and very special and limited-edition designs in light of the milestone. [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 95
98 CJ august 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m august 2010 CJ 99
18K Red Collection 621 Danish Design 105 Kenilworth Media Inc./Jewellery Business 728
Accutron 100 Diamant Esmeralda 825 Kenneth Cole New York 510
Adora 405 Diamants en fête 429 Kenneth Cole Swiss 510
Almar Jewellery Inc. 715 Diamond Days 429 Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery (Canada) Inc. 218
Alpine 501 Diffusion Strato Inc. 331 L & R 501
Amore & Baci 811 Distribution Voltimage 629 La Bréa Intl. Inc./Steelx 821
Andrew Jewellery 223 Diva 322 Lady Dream 611
Arch Crown 501 Dumont 501 Larimar 315
Aréli Ltée. 305 École de Gemmologie de Montréal 730 Le Grenier 219
Arezzo Import Export Inc. 711 Elite Watch Bands 515 Libman & Co. Ltd. 415
Assurances G. Gosselin Ltée. 115 Elle Jewellery 810 Logiciel Episode Inc. 1018
Axcent of Scandinavia 821 Embix Cie D’Importation de Montres 105 Lumani 719
B Fly 410 Émotion 815 Mabensa Inc. 205
Banda 300 Energizer - batteries 300 Masako 322
Basal Diamond 431 Entreprises S.H.A. Inc 501 Makur Designs Inc. 621
BCBG Maxazria 510 Episode POS 1018 Makur’s Perfect Match 621
Begli 319 Epos 105 Malo 405
Benjamin 231 Eugene Gem, Inc. 202 Manufacturier de bijoux Gaby Inc. 701
Bergeon 501 Ève 805 Maple Leaf Diamonds 429
Best Bargains 328 Feminine Jewelry Co. Ltd. 923 Marc Ecko 619
Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg. Ltd. 329 Five Star Gold Inc. 811 Martin Ross Group Inc. 906
Bijouterie Almar Inc. 715 Flair 519 Master Design 906
Bijouterie J. Ifrah Ltée. 719 Flica Inc. 319 Maxell 501
Bijoux La Scala 315 Foredom 501 MDJ Bridal Collection 906
Bijoux Majesty 800 Forever Jewellery 625 Michel Herbelin 719
Bijoux RNB 210 Frank Lloyd Wright 100 Milanor Inc 605
BK Jewellery 611 Froidveaux 501 Miss Sixty 105
Boccia 821 Fyita 629 Monnaie Royale Canadienne 105
Bucsh 501 Gaby 701 Morellato 719
Bulova Watch Co. Ltd. 100 GC 501 Moress Canada 923
Butterfly Gem 410 Gemoro 501 Morganite Collection 621
CBE Inc. 511 Gold & Silver House Ltd. 125 Moschino - Cheap & Chic Time & Jewels 510
Canadian Diamonds by Columbia 415 Goldmaster 415 Murano Glass 825
Canadian Jeweller 921 Gosselin G. Assurances 115 My First Diamond 906
Caravelle 100 Gravure Atlantic Ltée. 618 Nautica (Montres) 619
Cardinal 515 Grobet 501 Nina Ricci 315
Carmen Jewellery Inc. 510 Guess 501 Noble gift packaging 924-927
Céline Dion 821 Harley Davidson 100 Nova Scotia Ltd. 631
Cerres 501 Harmony Silver 906 Odyssey 906
Christian Bourdin Entreprises 511 Hermle 501 Orient 515
Citadel 515 Hortec 501 Oxford 505
CJM 921 Hush Puppies 105 PAJ Canada/ELLE Jewellery 810
Classica Venenzia 825 ID - Xchange 311 Pandora Jewelry 705
Colletion Papillon Gemme Inc. 410 Ifrah 719 Papillon Gemme 410
Columbia 415 Image Design Jewellery Inc. 918 Paragems 911
Computer - Software 1018 Importation Robert Beaulne Inc. 718 Persona 906
Continental Geneve 105 Informatique - Logiciel 1018 Pfingst 501
Corona Jewellery Co. 429 Ital Can Inc. 211 Philtzcraft Clocks 100
Création JMS 324 Italgem Inc. 311 Pietro Bacci 631
Création Le Grenier Ltée. 219 Jacques Benjamin 231 Polar Bear 431
Créations Gilo 322 Jean Michel 501 Polar Ice Diamonds 431
Créations Malo Inc. 405 Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. 1022 Prestige 405
Creed Canada 315 Jewellers Vigilance Canada 1020 Prestige Pak Inc. 107
Crown Pearl 910 Jewellery Business 728 Princebella 431
Crystal World 315 JSN Jewellery Inc. 625 Princess 322
D’Orlan 315 Just Cavalli 105 Promo Inc. 411
D&G - Time & Jewels 510 JVC 1020 Q & Q Watches 300
A.V. Diamonds/Price Point Leader 1419 Gemological Institute of America 17 Noble Gift Packaging 1623
Abbasi Inc. 523 Gemsparkle Ltd. 1424 Novero Canada Inc. 723
Accudiam Inc. 715 GemVision/GV Design Canada 1615 Oriental Gemco Inc. 1028
Almar Jewellery Mfg. 915 Globe Diamonds 730 PAJ Canada 907
American Gem Society 10 GM Gold & Diamonds 1129 Pandora Jewelry 807
Americas Gold 621 Gold & Diamond Inc. 1528 Paramount Gems 1125
Amgad, Inc. 1325 Gold & Silver House Ltd. 1119 Pearls & Girls 911
Anastasia Bijoux 509 Golden Dragon Jewelry Corp. 822 Pease & Curren Inc. 1619
Anatoli Inc. 506 H & S Jewelry 1519 Pierre Laurent Timepieces 1521
Ankit Gems 719 Harrison Scott 519 Polanti Watches 1529
Arezzo Import Export Inc. 1222 Hedge Stone 714 Polypearl Canada Co. 722
Asch Grossbardt 518 HRA-SGI 707 Prestige Pak Inc. 1311
Aspire Designs Ltd. 1511 IDD 1522 Q Best Gold 623
B.H. Multicom 923 IGI 20 Rapaport 25
B.K. Jewellery 1007 Imagine Designs 1216 RBB Jewels 510
Best Bargains 1114 Ion-Ray Co. Ltd./Q-Ray 1318 Ready Mounts Inc. 609
Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg. 1015 Ital-Can Inc. 1021 Rebeau Jewellery HK Ltd. 610
Brazilian Gem Source Inc. 1430 Italgem Inc. 1018 Ritone (Canada) Ltd. 1229
Bulova Watch Co. Ltd. 1507 Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. 622 Royal Oxford Inc. 919
C.B.E.- Christian Bourdin Enterprises 1111 Jewelers’ Circular Keystone 11 Sahana Ayurvedic Products Inc. 1218
C.Z. Collections 526 Jewelio Design Ltd. 928 Saturn Jewels 631
Canadian Gem (Gemperle) 1107 Jewellers Vigilance Canada 26 Schindler Technologies/Solidscape 1633
Canadian Gemmological Association 21 Jewellery Business 14 Seoidin 520
Canadian Jeweller (CJ) Magazine 18 JSN Jewellery Inc. 1309 Sharp Group Ltd. 828
Canadian Jewellers Association 22 JTS Inc. 1228 Shiny Jewellers 1221
CanWest Distributors 1527 Kabana 608 Shivas Watches 1622
Capredoni Giftware Ltd. 508 Keith Jack Inc. 507 Signature® Engraving System, Inc. 1415
Carmen Jewellery Inc. 1515 Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery 607 Silver Trendz 1514
Casting House 1629 Kristina Fine Jewelry Ltd. 606 Silverman, Chapman and Reese Consulting 1109
Chain & Hoop LLC. 710 Kybele Sterling 517 SK Diamonds 819
Chamilia 1315 Lavy Gems Jewelry 512 Sofgi Jewelry 514
CloverMe 1425 Legrand Jewellery Co. Ltd. 616 Stuller Inc. 1429
Delcam 1210 Livingstone Jewelry Co. Inc. 827 Sunex Enterprises 618
Designs Unlimited 9 Low Cost Luxury/Low Cost Leader 1029 TAKA Jewellery Pte. Ltd 615
Diam-O-Jewel Inc. 1232 M.K. Jewelry Inc. 729 The Standout Design 818
Diamond Bourse of Canada 23 Magnetic Jewellers 725 Traders Jewellery Corp. 1323
Diamond Trading Co. 30 Manihar Intl. 1532 Trollbeads Canada 614
Diamport Corp. 1219 Master Design Jewellery Ltd. 1411 Unirich Jewellery Ltd. 721
EMBIX Watch Co. 1606 Millennium Precious Metals 1433 United Precious Metals 1628
Eugene Gem Inc. 1327 Ministry of Nothern Development Mines Vianna Joias, Brazil 929
European Gemological Laboratory 19 & Forestry-Diamond Sector Unit 24 Vivian Jewelry 820
Feminine Jewelry Co. Ltd. 627 Muehle Glashuette Canada Ltd. 1614 Y. Stern Jewellery 511
Fiori Canada 1525 My Oro USA Inc. 728 Z-Tech Advanced Technologies Inc. 1010
Five Star Gold Inc. 814 Nailesh Kumar K Patel 926 Zeghani by Simon G 1024
G S Laboratories Inc. 1428 Nipach Displays 500 Zoppini Canada 1211
Gabriella Designs 1133 Noble Gift Packaging 1607
103
CJ
august 20010
JCK TORONTO
August 8-10th, 2010
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Toronto Metro Convention Centre EXIT STAIRS EXIT STAIRS 20' 20' 20'
EXIT STAIRS
Supplier desks
14 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 026 027
Main Entrance
Space Draw ESCALATOR DOWN
W.F. FHC ESCALATOR UP
ES #2 T.F.H.C.
Lock-Up 40'
C
11
ES #1 FH FH
20'
office Networking C FH
20'
C
EL #7 V.I.P. T.F.H.C.
40'
Lounge 20'
10 28
20'
New Product Showcase
reception
kitchen 500 701
9 30
office
20' 20' 20' 20' 20'
FHC
606
506 507 20' 20' 20' 20' FHC 20' 20'
30' 30'
508 509
608 607 907 1006 1107 1507 1606 40'
Design Centre
Times Square
20' 20' 20' 20' 20' 20' 20' 20' 20'
1309 1411 1511 1607
514 515 20'
516 517 614 615 714 715 814 807 915 1015 1114 1111 1211 1311 1415 1514 1515 1614 1615
20' 20' 20' 20' 20' 20'
518 519 616 719 818 1216 1219 1318 1619
20' 20' 20' 20' 20'
20'
30' 30'
520 521 618 621 721 820 919 1018 1218 1315 1519 1621
40' 40'
30'
524 522 622 723 1119 1419 1521 1620
20' 20' 20' 20' 20' 20' 20' 20' 20'
20'
526 523 623 722 725 822 819 923 1024 1021 1125 1222 1221 1323 1424 1425 1522 1525 1622 1623
T.F.H.C. 40'
T.F.H.C. T.F.H.C. 20'
T.F.H.C. T.F.H.C.
627 728 729 828 827 926 929 1028 1324 1325 1428 1527 1628 1629
20' 20' 20' 20' 20'
Education
30'
Theater 1 631 730 731 830 829 928
40'
1129 1228 1229 1326 1327 1430 1429 1528 1529 1630 1631
20'
Education Theater 2
528 633 732 733 832 833 932 1133 1232 1233 1328 1329 1432 1433 1532 1633
20'
(Interactive Education)
1029 1533
Cafe / Lounge
Exhibitor printer camera
6'
6'
T
T
FHC
FHC FHC FHC
FHC FHC FHC FHC
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