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1) Clothes in Vedic Times

The garments worn in Vedic times onwards did not fundamentally differ from those worn by
Hindus in later times. A single length cloth draped around the body, over the shoulders and
fastened with a pin or a belt. This was a comfortable dress to be worn in a hot and humid climate
which prevailed in India in comparison to the weather from where these people migrated.

Lower garment was called paridhana or vasana. It was usually such a cloth fastened around the
waist with a belt or a string which is called mekhala or rasana. Upper garment was called
Uttaiya and worn like a shawl over the shoulders. This upper garment was usually discarded at
home or in hot weather especially by the people belonging to lower strata. Third garment called
pravara was worn in cold season like cloak or a mantle.

2) Clothing of Tamil Nadu represents the traditional and cultural essence of this south Indian state. Men
of this state put on traditional outfits such as Dhoti or Lungi with a shirt and Angavastra. Females
beautify themselves in Sari and blouse. The costumes of Tamil Nadu have got fame globally for their
grace and beauty.

The women of Tamil Nadu decorate themselves in traditional sarees. The famous Tamil poetry
Cilappatikaram (Silappadhikaram) portrays females in sari. The ageless charisma of these saris is the
uniqueness of women.

Clothing of Tamil Nadu is not restricted to women; men also have passion to show their style and look
handsome. They wear a lungi with an Angavastra or shirt. The tremendously and traditional lungi
invented the south India only. The lungi is a long cloth usually manufactured from pure cotton, worn
around the mens waist. The Angavastra is an extended cloth draped around the shoulders.

3) Woven textiles of India

The history of Indian textiles is very ancient. The discovery of spindles and a piece of cotton
fabric stuck to a vase revealed that the spinning and weaving of cotton was known to harappans
nearly 5000 years ago.

. Large export of Muslin fabric was done to Egypt and Europe. Before the introduction of
mechanized means of spinning in early 19th century, Indian cotton and silks were hand spun and
hand woven known as KHADI. Fabrics that produced by using mill spun yarn but are woven
on hand loom are known as HANDLOOM FABRICS. Both KHADI and HANDLOOM
fabrics are having great demand in todays fashion industry in India as well as abroad.

In India, a large range of cotton, silk and woolen woven textiles are produce on handloom. Each
part of India is known for particular type of textile. Two main types of woven textiles are
Brocades and Ikat. Though same type of textile is woven in many parts of India, the designs,
colour combination and weaving technique used for it are different. Each has got its specialty.
For example brocades produce in Utter Pradesh and in Tamilnadu or Ikats produce in Andhra
Pradesh, Gujrat and odisha, are different from each other.

Categorisation of weaving styles on the basis of end product:


a)
Saris
(i)
Banaras Brocades
(ii)
Baluchari, Jamdani
(iii)
Paithani
(iv)
Kanjeevaram
(v)
Chanderi, Maheshwari
b)
Shawls
(i)
Kashmir shawl
(ii)
Kullu & Kinnaur
(iii)
Wraps of North-east
c)
Floor coverings
(i)
Carpets
(ii) d
urries & rugs

Big answer:
1) KUTCH AND KATHIAWAR EMBROIDERY

Introduction
In Gujarat, embroidery seems to have spread to all aspects of life. Kutch in northwestern Gujarat and
Saurashtra in western Gujarat has the finest and richest embroidey in a variety of styles.
Places
Bhuj, Mandavi, Bhavnagar, Jamnagar.
Threads and Colors
Cotton and untwisted silk in colors red, green, magenta, white, orange, yellow, often used. Other colors
being royal blue, parrot green, purple, maroon, brown, violet, black, sky blue, pink and yellow are rarely
used.
Fabric
Oroginally silk and occassionly satin fabric was used. As silk is expensive, fabrics such as casement,
poplin, khadi are used. These fabrics are brought from Bombay, Ahmedabad, Surat and Porbander in
colors of red, maroon, yellow, green, orange, navy blue, brown, magenta and black. Today the colors
included are sky blue, parrot green, light yellow, white, violet, pink, turquoise, blue and cream.
Stitch
The stitches used are chain, herringbone, mirrors (abhla), cross stitch, satin, running stitch, appliqu
work, and moti bharat (bead work).

Kutch Embroidery

It is rightly said that Gujarat has given India the greatest heritage in embroidery work and craft
through its famous and versatile Kutch embroidery. The hub of the Kutch embroidery work is
basically located in the regions of Kutch and Saurashtra wherein the local artisans churn out the
most creative and exquisite designs.

From mirror and bead work to Abhala embroidery along with the usage of silk threads of bright
colors, the Kutch embroidery basically ornate the entire fabric and embellishes it completely.
A lot of the Kutch embroidery is influenced by various architectural designs and motifs such as the Heer
bharat. This embroidery is also influenced by romantic motifs as well as patterns of human figurines in
dancing poses and dancing peacocks too. A lot of motifs are also inspired by Persian and Mughal arts
that are inspired by animals.

There are seven distinctive styles of Singh-Kutch embroidery namely Suf, Khaarek, and Paako, Rabari,
Garasia Jat and Mutava.

Kathiawar:

Kathiawar, which took its name from the Kathis, shows a strongly folk element in its embroidery.
Kathiawar is very rich in embroidered goods since the art is used for decorating even the humblest
home.

Mirrors and bright colors are the specialty of Kathiawar Embroidery originating from Gujarat.
Cloths exhibiting the Kathiawar embroidery are used on wall panels, bags, jackets, cholis
(traditional blouses) and ghagras ((traditional skirts).
The Kathiawar embroidery designs are hand-drawn on cotton cloth and are worked with silk floss (heer).
The embroidery is done in long stitches, use being made of tiny mirror to give glitter to the centre of
flowers or eyes of animals and birds.
The ari-work chain stitch of the mochis was also combined with the decorative needle-work stitches of
the Kathis to produce a whole new range of stitches and designs.
This Kathiawar embroidery work is done on white ground, the applique being in different coloured
cotton cloth, the patterned materials being used to depict decorative details. Large square panels of
material are sometimes fretted in formal designs through which the white of the base material shows to
advantage. Applique is used for articles such as festival hangings, covers of carriages and back clothes of
animals. Mirrors are often used to enhance the effect of the applique.

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