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Heritage turkey

the 1920s and continuing in to the 1950s, broad-breasted


fowl began to replace all other types of turkey in commer-
cial production. The favorite breed at the time was the
Broad Breasted Bronze, which was developed from the
Standard Bronze. In the 1960s producers began to heav-
ily favor turkeys that did not show the dark pin feathers
in their carcass, and thus the Broad Breasted White grew
to dominate the industry, a trend which continues to this
day.[1]
To meet perceived consumer demand and increase pro-
ducers prot margins, the goal in turkey farming became
the production of the maximum amount of breast meat at
the lowest possible cost. As a result of selection for this
single trait, 70% of the weight of mass market turkeys
Heritage turkeys of various breeds on a farm in Maryland is in their breast.[2] Consequently, the birds are so heavy
that they are completely incapable of reproducing with-
A heritage turkey is one of a variety of strains of out articial insemination, and they reach such extreme
domestic turkey which retains historic characteristics that weights so quickly their overall development fails to keep
are no longer present in the majority of turkeys raised pace with their rapidly accruing muscle mass, resulting
for consumption since the mid-20th century. Heritage in severe immune system, cardiac, respiratory and leg
turkeys can be dierentiated from other domestic turkeys problems.[1]
in that they are biologically capable of being raised in a
manner that more closely matches the natural behavior For over 35 years, the overwhelming majority of the 280
and life cycle of wild turkeys. Heritage turkeys have a million turkeys produced in North America each year
relatively long lifespan and a much slower growth rate have been the product of a few genetic strains of Broad
than turkeys bred for industrial agriculture, and unlike Breasted White. The breeding stock for these birds are
industrially-bred turkeys, can reproduce without articial owned largely by three multinational corporations: Hy-
insemination. brid Turkeys of Ontario, Canada, British United Turkeys
of America in Lewisburg, West Virginia, and Nicholas
More than ten dierent turkey breeds are classied as Turkey Breeding Farms in Sonoma, California.[3]
heritage turkeys, including the Auburn, Bu, Black,
Bourbon Red, Narragansett, Royal Palm, Slate, Standard Along with the adoption of the Broad Breasted White by
Bronze, and Midget White. Some prominent chefs, farm- industrial producers, other turkey varieties faded in num-
ers, and food critics have also contended that heritage bers. Other than exhibition birds and those on a scant
turkey meat tastes better and is more healthy. few small farms, other turkeys virtually disappeared. By
the end of the 20th century, all but the Broad Breasted
Despite increasing interest in heritage turkeys, they are White were in danger of extinction. Around this time,
still a tiny minority, perhaps 25,000 raised annually com- conservation organizations began to recognize the plight
pared to more than 200,000,000 industrial turkeys and of heritage turkeys; The Livestock Conservancy consid-
7,000,000 turkeys in the wild, and most heritage breeds ered heritage turkeys to be the most critically endangered
are endangered in some respect. of all domestic animals circa 1997. A census conducted
by the Conservancy found less than 1,500 total breeding
birds (out of all heritage varieties) were left in the coun-
1 History try. Some breeds, such as the Narragansett, had less than
a dozen individuals left, and many considered most her-
For most of history, turkeys were primarily raised on itage turkeys to be beyond hope.[4]
small family farms for meat and as a form of pest control The Livestock Conservancy, Slow Food USA, the Society
(turkeys are prodigious eaters of insects). But with the for the Preservation of Poultry Antiquities (SPAA), the
advent of factory farming of poultry, turkeys began to be Heritage Turkey Foundation, and a few hundred key poul-
selectively bred for increasingly larger size, focusing es- try enthusiasts launched a major eort to restore breeding
pecially on the production of breast meat. Beginning in

1
2 2 DEFINITION

A heritage turkey prepared for roasting. Note the ratio of breast


meat to dark meat is closer to 50/50.

cise denition. The most notable heritage turkeys today


come from specic breeds, such as the Bourbon Red, but
any fowl regardless of breed can be dened as a heritage
turkey if it meets the criteria mentioned below. Only a
few of these are recognized by the American Poultry As-
sociation through inclusion in the Standard of Perfection.
Along with the surge in popularity of heritage turkeys,
some farmers have (perhaps unknowingly) passed o
birds which do not meet the basic denition of true her-
itage birds in an eort to cash in on the phenomenon. To
be a true heritage turkey, birds must meet three specic
Heritage turkeys, like this Bourbon Red tom, can have a much criteria.
more striking appearance than the Broad Breasted White.

2.1 Naturally mating


populations of heritage turkeys in the late 20th century.
One man in particular, Frank Reese Jr., has been credited
The rst criterion is that heritage turkeys are able to mate
by sources such as ABC News and The New York Times
naturally with no intervention from humans, and with ex-
as being instrumental in preserving heritage breeds,[2][5]
pected fertility rates of 70-80%. Hens can lay fertile
but small farmers all across the country were also impor-
eggs, and brood their clutches to hatching. According to
tant; strains of heritage turkey kept in genetic isolation for
The Livestock Conservancy, birds must be the result of
years by family farms preserved heritage breeds for the
natural reproduction in order to truly be called heritage
future.[6] Primary motivations for the endeavor included
turkeys.[7]
a passion for historic breeds and maintaining genetic di-
versity among domestic animals which humans depend
upon.[2] Consumer and restaurant interest was also moti- 2.2 Long productive lifespan
vated by a support of local and sustainable foods.[6]
In a 2003 census by the Livestock Conservancy, her- Except for a few ocks of toms kept for semen produc-
itage turkey populations had increased by more than tion, commercial turkeys generally never live past the
200 percent. By 2006, the count of heritage turkeys point at which they reach market weight. Heritage turkeys
in the U.S. was up to 8,800 breeding birds.[6] Though are capable of the full normal lifespan of wild turkeys.
all but the Bourbon Red and Royal Palm are still con- Breeding hens are commonly productive for 57 years
sidered critically endangered, the birds have rebounded and breeding toms for 35 years. They are also more
signicantly.[4] well-suited for outdoor and/or free range conditions in
pastured poultry operations.[7]

2 Denition 2.3 Slow growth rate


While the moniker of heritage turkey is not a government- All heritage turkeys have a relatively slow to moderate
regulated label like organic foods, it does have a pre- rate of growth. Turkeys raised in industrial agriculture
3

are slaughtered at 14 to 18 weeks of age, while heritage 6 References


turkeys reach a marketable weight in about 28 weeks, giv-
ing the birds time to develop a strong skeletal structure Ekarius, Carol (2007). Storeys Illustrated Guide
and healthy organs prior to building muscle mass. This to Poultry Breeds. 210 MAS MoCA Way, North
growth rate is identical to that of the commercial vari- Adams MA 01247: Storey Publishing. ISBN 978-
eties of the rst half of the 20th century.[7] 1-58017-667-5.
Burros, Marian (November 21, 2001). The Hunt
3 As food for a Truly Grand Turkey, One That Nature Built.
The New York Times. Retrieved 2008-07-20.
Heritage turkeys have been praised by chefs and food crit- Severson, Kim (November 7, 2007). Preservations
ics alike as being richer in avor than industrial birds,[6] Progress. The New York Times. Retrieved 2008-
though the lack of a large amount of breast meat means 07-20.
cooking times and methods may dier substantially from
non-heritage birds.[9] Heritage turkeys are closer in taste Gibson, Charles; Blair Soden (November 15, 2007).
to wild turkeys, but are several pounds larger. Part of this The Man Who Saved Turkeys From Extinction.
stated increase in avor is due to a dierence in the matu- ABC News. Retrieved 2008-07-20.
rity between industrial turkeys and heritage ones - if birds Ness, Carol (November 2, 2005). Consumers gob-
are slaughtered at less than four months old, they fail to ble up Heritage American turkeys. San Francisco
ever accrue fat layers.[3] Chronicle.
Due to their rarity and the length of time involved in their
growth, heritage turkeys are also far more expensive than Mapes, Lynda V. (October 21, 2007). Pilgrims
their more common brethren. While turkeys from factory Progress. Seattle Times.
farms may be given away along with other purchases, her- Heritage Turkeys, the Better Holiday Bird.
itage turkeys can cost upwards of $200 (USD),[3] though National Public Radio. November 21, 2007. Re-
prices have fallen in some areas as they become more trieved 2008-07-20.
common.[6]
Denition of a Heritage Turkey. albc-usa.org.
In addition to a dierence in culinary characteristics, her-
American Livestock Breeds Conservancy. Re-
itage turkeys are often considered to be a healthier food;
trieved 2008-07-20.
as a result of the diet of pasture-raised turkeys, heritage
meat contains far higher levels of omega-3 fatty acids,
which help prevent heart disease.[3]
7 Further reading

4 See also How to Raise Heritage Turkeys on Pasture.


American Livestock Breeds Conservancy.
Heirloom plant American Standard of Perfection, 1998, A Com-
Rare breed (agriculture) plete Description of All Recognized Breeds and Va-
rieties of Domestic Poultry. American Poultry As-
sociation.
5 Footnotes
[1] Ekarius (2007) pp. 220-221 8 External links
[2] Severson (2007) Heritage Turkey Foundation
[3] Burros (2001)

[4] Ekarius (2007) p. 220

[5] Gibson (2007)

[6] Mapes (2007)

[7] Denition of a Heritage Turkey, albc-usa.org

[8] Pollan, Michael (MayJune 2003). Cruising on the Ark


of taste. Mother Jones.

[9] Ness (2005)


4 9 TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES

9 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses


9.1 Text
Heritage turkey Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heritage_turkey?oldid=778491312 Contributors: Edward, Theresa knott, Slaver-
ing.dog, DragonySixtyseven, Woohookitty, Dialectric, Zagalejo, Martinp, Freekee, Thumperward, Snowmanradio, MaerlynsRainbow,
Biruitorul, Steven Walling, JMyrleFuller, Tttom, Moonraker12, Hess88, Mastrude, Madalibi, J04n, Plantdrew, PTJoshua, Janebc, Batty-
Bot, ArmbrustBot, Monkbot, Bender the Bot and Anonymous: 10

9.2 Images
File:Bourbon_Red_tom_close-up.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a2/Bourbon_Red_tom_close-up.
jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: big_turkey Original artist: Matt Billings
File:Heritage_Turkeys_in_MD.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9d/Heritage_Turkeys_in_MD.jpg Li-
cense: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Heritage Turkeys Original artist: Curt Gibbs from Long Beach, California
File:Heritage_turkey,_thanksgiving.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/Heritage_turkey%2C_
thanksgiving.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: almost dinner Original artist: TurkZilla

9.3 Content license


Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0

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