The case is clear: All digital multimeters have to be checked and if necessary, calibrated.
Therefore a reliable reference is needed, either a calibrated voltmeter or a sufficiently
accurate reference voltage. A calibrated multimeter is expensive but a precision voltage
stabilizer is not. For less than 10 you can build a reference voltage source with a precision
of 0.3 % or less. That correspond to the standard of a normal DMM (e.g. the popular
UNI-T61A,B,C,D has 0.5 %). And even better, you can turn a cheap multimeter into a
Precision stabilizer
A precision voltage reference is nothing else than a power supply with a precision zener
diode or better a precision voltage stabilizer. There are some precision stabilizers on the
market. They all differ in accuracy and price. The output voltage is mostly 5.000 V or
10.00 V.
Here are some precision stabilizers (there are probably more):
When choosing a stabilizer look at the accuracy of the multimeter you want to calibrate and
at the accuracy of the stabilizer. The precision of the multimeter after your calibration can
not be better than the precision of the stabilizer itself.
The disadvantage of precision stabilizer is, that they are very special parts and not always
and everywhere available.
Assembly
The circuit diagram is simple. I have chosen a LT1236 stabilizer just because I could get it
easily. The input voltage is not critical, as long it is between 15 V and 30 V. The capacitors
are against any oscillating. That's it.
In order to get a second voltage of 1.000 V I added a voltage divider. But that is not really
essential. The value of the resistor combination has to be 9:1. I have chosen 18 K and 2.0
K but any other combination is fine, as long as the current does not exceed the maximum
current of the stabilizer.
But the main problem is the quality of the resistors. They of course also have to have
precision quality. Standard metal film resistors of 1 % or even 2 % are not good enough - in
principle. But a good possibility is to select a pair out of a pile of metal film resistors with
your ohmmeter. Be very careful and critical. Compromises here are out of place.
Another possibility is the following (this is what I did): Instead of taking one 18 K resistor,
I took 10 of 180 K in parallel (plus 10 of 20 K). The idea is that the overall tolerance gets
smaller, because the tolerances compensate each other the more resistors are used. I tested
the method and the result is the following: All 1 % resistors actually had a tolerance of only
0.25 % (each one). Putting all in parallel the tolerance of the overall resistance dropped to
0.04 %.
A suitable enclosure I could not get here in Tanzania, so I mounted everything into my
workshop multimeter. There was just enough space inside and also at the front for the
sockets. An other advantage was, that I could use the internal power supply.
Inside a DMM
The heart of all digital multimeters is a highly integrated IC, the A/D converter with the LCD
or LED display driver. The IC processes and displays a DC voltage in a range of 0-200 mV.
Different voltage dividers selected by the rotation switch (or by an automatic control) extend
this mili-voltmeter to a practical voltmeter. The converters for currents and resistances we
ignore here.
When we now do our calibration we only adjust the reference voltage of this A/D converter,
that means the 200 mV range. The resistors of the dividers are fixed and can not be
adjusted. That makes the work easy.
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By the way, it is always a good idea to bring the equipment first to operating temperature
before making any adjustments. Switch on both, multimeter and reference voltage half an
hour before doing the calibration.
Addendum
I wish I had had this idea before. It has always bothered me that for developing aid projects
a lot of money is spent on top-class equipment. Why must every electrician have at least a
FLUKE 179? I have seen so many expensive tools and measurement equipment which were
cracked or filthy dirty (or simply have disappeared), so that I basically only buy inexpensive
(but reasonable) equipment that I find in local shops. In future everybody will also get an
inexpensive multimeter from me which the technician together with me will calibrate. By
doing so he gets to know his DMM better and hopefully also appreciate the value of his
instrument, especially when he realizes that his DMM after his tuning is at least as precise as
a 10-times more expensive FLUKE 179...