T R AV E L S

R US S I A ,

THE K RI M E A ,
THE CA UCA SUS ,

A ND

GEOR GIA .

BY R O B E R T LYA LL M D F L S , . . . . .

MEM ER O F TH E R OYA L ASI ATIC SOCI ETY O F

B O F TH E ER NER I AN
LO NDON ;
NAT RA L H I ST O RY SO CI ETY O F
W
U E DI NB UR GH
MEM ER O F TH E L I TER A RY
C OR R E SPONDI NG B H I L OSO H IC A L SO CI ETY
A ND P POF ;
A ND
TH E NAT R L H I STO RY SO CI ETY O F M AN CH ESTER
U A
,

MEM ER O F TH E I M ER I A L SOCI ET I E S O F A R IC LT RE NA T RA L H I STO RY

B P G
,

U U A ND U
,

O F TH E Y SIC O ME IC A L SOCI ETY A T M OSC O ,

.

A ND PH - D , W
&c .

I Ar TWV O VOI MVAI E S.

V OL . I .

L O NDO N

PR I N T E D F O R T . C AD E L L , I N T H E ST R AND ;
A ND W . BL ACK W O O D , E D I N B U R GH .

1 8 25 .
 PR E FA CE .

l
A Y E A R ago w he n I p ub i she d The Character l

l
,

of the R u ss i an s an d A Deta ile d H i story of M os

,

C OW , I expressed the deepest s ol i c i tu de wi th
r espec t t o the r ecept i o n of that w ork by the.

Bri ti sh p ubl i c whose character an d op i n ion I shal

,

ever ve n erate I als o stated that by i ts j udgm e n t

.
,

I m u st deci de wh ethe r or n ot I sho uld con ti n ue

,

m y l iterary labo u rs E n co urage d by the k i n d

.

r ecept i o n of that vol um e I s oon aft erward s

,

p ubl i she d
, A n Acco un t of t he O rgan i zati on ,

Ad m in i strati on an d Prese n t State of the M ili tary

,

C olo n i es i n R uss i a a pam phlet whi ch m e t wi th
,

g e n e r al n ot i ce. A n i m ated to n e w exe r t i o n s b y ,

A 3
vi PR E FA C E .

these ci r c u m stan ces I agai n ve n tu re to solicit ,

i n d ulge n c e for the presen t vol um es .

I owe it as a d uty to m ysel f to s tate that whilst

.
,

I have bee n p ublicly acc u sed of severity to th e

R u ss i an s m y best fri e n ds] have blam e d m e for
,

partiality towards the m an d overstrai n ed e n ,

d e avou r s to advocate their cau se an d that of

the two divisio n s of the Q u arto the rst The , ,

Character of t he R u ssian s has bee n chiey ap ,

prove d at ho m e ; wh ile the seco n d ,

A Detailed
History of M oscow has be en most

d i st in gu i sh e d

on the Conti n e nt .

l A fter a r e si d e n c e
a n umber of ye ars i n R us

of

l
S a an d havi n bec m e fa m iliar with the la age

o
, g n
gu ,

the c usto m s an d the m an n ers of its i n h abitant s

l
,

(i e .the real
. R u ssian s ) I m ost arde n tly s ought ,
.

or t mi ty
l i of t rave
n g thro ugh the s o u th O f

an
pp o

that e x te n sive e m pire I had eve n m ade co nsider .

able pr epar ati on s for s uc h a j o u rn ey by e x am i n i n g

'

'

an d tran slating the best R u ssian a cco un ts O f the

co untry t own s villages &c wh i ch I calc ulated

, , , .

on s ee i n g Wh ile al m ost despairi ng to acco m pl is h

.
 FAC E vi i

l
PR E .

th i s p urpose m y desi re was un expecte dly gratied

, .

Two Ital ian n oble m e n Marqui s P u cci an d Co un t

,

S alazar an d an E n glish ge n t e m an E dward Pe n

, ,

rhyn E sq who arri ved at Moscow i n 1 8 Q Q be in g

.
,

abo ut to un d ertake a j o urn ey to the s outhern pro

v in ces of R uss i a an d bei n g de s i rou s of e n gagi n g
,

a person to acco m pan y them w h o m i ght r em edy

,

the i n con ven ien ce they apprehe n ded from n ot

u n derstan d in g the lan g u age an d s upply the wan t
,

of m edical adv i ce i n a c oun try w here the pre

vale n ce of in term i tte n t fevers m ight re n der it

partic u larly n ecessary I was e n gaged by the party
,

i n the do u ble capacity of co n d u ctor of the j o u rn ey

an d phys i c i a n I n j u stice to these ge n tle m e n as

.
,

well as to m ysel f I ought t o state that they

,

m ade n o co n trib u tio n s to m y MSS The obse r v .

at i on s an d opin ion s are m y own an d I beg to ,

have i t distin ctly u n derstood that I alon e am ,

respo n s ible for every se n ten ce i n the work This .

I thi n k it n ecessary to declare becau se the E m ,

e r or Alexan der has expressed h i s d i sapprobat i o n

p
Of m Q u arto ; an d said that i t is hostile to
y ,

Ru ss i a an d wri tte n agai n st h i s govern m e n t an d

, ,

the whole R uss i an n ation a n d bec au se H is

A 4
 FAC E

l
PR E .

l
I m perial Maj esty is also highly o ffe n ded at my

havi n gdedicated that work to hi m B ut I c an c on .

sc i e n t i ous say that n o i n d i vi d u al feels less of hos

y
t i i ty to R u ssia than I do an d whoever has read
,

that vol um e wi th an u n biassed m i n d will be of ,

opi n io n that I hav e bee n m ost an xio u s to do

j ustice to the R u ssian s . While I have bol dly
spoke n m y m i n d w ith regard to their im perfection s ,

their errors an d their vices I have n ot w ithheld

, ,

m y estee m for their virt u es or the i r good q u al ities .

I have u n i form ly protected virt u e an d religio n ,

an d as regu larly held u i m m orality an d wicked

p
n ess to ridic u le an d detestat i o n I f fro m the facts
.
,

recorded i n The Character of th e R u ssian s ,

an d i n these vol u m es , t he p ublic sho u ld be of

opi n io n co n trary to m e that the su m total of

, ,

vice - i f I m ay so express m ysel f wh i ch attaches

to this people is as great as Dr Clarke represe n te d
, .
,

I m ost seri ou sly beg that they will at least r e , ,

m ark that I have placed thei r decien cies an d

,

vices i n their proper places whilst I have a d ,

m i tt e d e v ery redee m i n g l ight to e n live n the gloo m y

,

grou n d w ork of the pict ure I for m erly pleaded

.

i mpartiality an d tr uth an d i t; i n the i r c a use I

, ,
 PR E FA C E . ix

have n ot obtai n ed the good opi n io n of His I m pe

rial Maj esty Alexan der I am sorry for it I sho uld
, .

have bee n h ighly pleased w i th the appro bati o n of

a Sovereig n who m ay be estee m ed the greatest
bles si ng an d or n am e n t of his co u n try .

The disapprobation O f m y works by the R us

sian s was expected I O f cou rse all u de to the

l
.
, ,

higher classes of society The m ass of the p op u

.

lat i o n the peasan try will probably n e v er hear of

, ,

m y n am e ,altho u gh they have attracted m u ch

of m atte n tio n Their co n dit i o n as slaves wil
y .
, ,

ever deeply i nterest the Chri stian the philan ,

t hr op i st an d the states m a n an d I atter m ysel f

, ,

that I have represe n ted i t i n a n e w an d tr u e

ligh t.

The prese n t work is e n titled ,

Travels , Sac .

l
but it o ught to be m e n tio n ed t hat besides t he , ,

observatio n s m ade 6 72 r out e I have i n serted m an y

,

others whic h I had acc u m ulated previo u s to the

l
j o u rn ey an d bes i des I h ave added so m e i n t e i
, , ,

Vi d e hi c hara
s c te , r &c . p . 420 . of Vo .

II .
X PR E FAC E .

ge n ce receive d s in ce m y arri val i n L on don above ,

a year ago as w ell as all u de d to d ifferen t c om

,

m u n i c ati on s w h i c h have appeared i n the p ubl i c

gazettes ; so as to bri n g up our k n owledge O f

R u ssia to the prese n t day .

As I form ed on e of a party I have O ften u sed ,

the pron ou n we becau se it see m ed u n n atu ral or

,

a ffected to use the rst perso n al pron o un sin gular ,

while others were presen t O n other occasion s I.

ut we becau se I s u ppose that the reader aeco m

p ,

an i e s m e an d j oi n s i n m pi n io n B ut whethe r
p , y O
j
.

we or I be u sed i t m u st always be u n derstood

,

that I advan ce m y own se n ti m e n ts .

In the orthography of R u ssian words I have

l
,

followed the r u les laid down i n the Preli m i n ary

Dissertati o n on the R u ss i an L an g uage whi c h ,

precedes the History of Moscow

The gran d .

regu ation wh i ch I have adopted has bee n t o

, ,

co m bi n e s uc h letters of the E n gli sh alphabet as

shall prod u ce as n e arly as poss i ble the sou n d Of
, ,

the origi n al words m ost of wh i ch I have acce n ted

, ,

s o as to be sti ll m ore u se ful to the traveller .

 PR E F A CE . xi

l
I co u1d haVe wished that our j o urn ey had bee n
'

of l onger d u ration bu t at the sam e ti m e it m u st

, , ,

be re m e m bered that travellin g i n R u ssia is n ot

,

i ke traversi ng the classic gro un d of Greece an d

Italy or eve n m ost co un tries of E u rope i n which
, ,

O bj ects worthy O f descriptio n co n ti n u ally prese n t .

the m selves With the exceptio n of the K r i m e a an d

.
,

the opposite shores O f the Ci m m erian Bosphoru s we ,

m et with little that recalled associatio n s with the

Greeks or the Rom an s I n terestin g obj ects lie

.

widely scattered i n the v ast e m pire of R u ssia ,

an d the traveller is ge n erally co n te n ted to gallop

over the gro u n d which separates the m with all
possible rapidity .

I can n ot con cl u de this Preface witho u t ex ,

pressin g m y gratitu d e for n u m erou s m arks of

ki n dn ess an d atte n ti o n to m an y i n divid uals i n
R u ssia whose n am es it wo uld be i m pru den t to
,

m en tio n R u ss ian hospitality I c an n ever forget

.
,

an d to R u ssia n liberality I am i n debted for m u c h

i n for m atio n Those who have placed their secrets

.
,

an d perhaps the i r happi n ess i n m y han ds m a rest

,y
assu re d t hat they sh all n ever be betrayed I n as .
 PR E FA C E .

far as respects the R u ssian s I hear the m n o i ll ,

will tho ugh I l ike bu t fe w of th em I shall always

, .

l
re m e m ber thei r good as well as the ir bad qu aliti es ,

an d I si n cerely w i sh thei r reform atio n E very .

Christian boso m m u st de s1 r e their i m prove men t i n

m orals the best ev i de n ce to m an o f a we l fo un ded
,
-

religi o n .

R O B E RT L YA L L .

4 5. H ag/ ma r ke t L on don,
De cembe r 24 . 1 824 .
 C O NT E N T S

T H E F I R ST V O L UM E .

l l
C H A PT ER I . C urious C us t om s at S r
p u c h of
DE P A R T UR E from i r
Th e R v e O k a O 0 0 0 0 0

c ow Z av od i.
V os h an . Vo
K o Om e n sk oy Oty a
Ts ari t si n

Pos t m as t e sr Tri k
c

l
l
Podol k s T l
ua
Gra e I m ag e s F ri T l

l
v n A r m - ab c at u a
R u sia C l e rgy
s n

C atha i e I I a
r n . nd C ou n t CH A P . II .

M om n of
S o M O odi C oal Min e s at Tula
C riti ic s m on Dr . r l
A s e n a at T a
L ap as n a A n e c d ot e s
Su n da y M rk
a et H ou s e s O f t h e R u ss i an
S e m e on ovs k oy Pe as an t s
i
R us s an Ch r
a ac te r an d y
Yas n a a Po an a ly
M a er nn s Vill as of t he R u ss an i
G ral Nast c h Oki
ene n Nob e s l
Mi e ral W at e r of
n s Se Mt s e nsk
m e on ovs k oy
ri i y
C u os t of t h e R u ss i an s B ook s e llin g Tri k c

S r p u c h of C om m erc e of O rel
 x iv C O NT E N T S .

l
Sevs k C o c l usio
n n
i l
i L i t t e R u ss i " a 61 D e p art ure from Kie f '

l
i Vill g

l
R u ss an a es ib .

Dirti n e ss of the Rs u Im p o itio of Po t M as

s n s -

i
s an s 62 t e r a d M od
s of R e
n es

G c h of . 63 dre s s

O bs t i n ac y of th e R us An e c dot e .

B Ogh os av e K o sun . r
B aturin ig r k
Z v e n o od a
A n e c d ot e g ry
R o ue J
of t h e e ws

Di tille ri
s es

Nos ov k a . K oz ari C l i ti
o on s a f th J w on o e e s

Br ov zi r i . . Si g l r C t m of t h
n u a us o e
/T h e Dn p e r Vie w of Je w s

ll
Ki e f Um an
h He rt s Of
.

K eys to t e a S op h iv k a
t h e R u ia s ss n C ou n t e ss Pot ot s kn
S p re d of lib ral Opi
.

a e Th e Po s Poe t li h em Tr
i
n on s bskii
i ry
H st o if
of K e
'

K h o ov i n sk a
i lM g i
An ma a n e t sm A rri l
v a at BO h o O e
g P
Tri l
bu n a s at i
R u ss an St e w a d s r
C rr p t io f Ci il A d
o u n o v ri
R e c u t of t h e R u ss i an
m i i tr t i
n s thro gh a on u u

out R i u ss a C ou t O z e r O sk ii
n v

I t f I j ti
n s an c e O n us ce D es c rip tion of BOgh o
C p t i C o hr
a a n E c an e s

VI p ol e

l
d en c e K o st an t i o k a
n n v

I n st an c e s of R u ssia C a alry n v

A l e x dro k a
an v 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

CH A P . I II . V oz e s e s k
n n

Ne w Sy s t e m of Mili t ary
Pun i hm t f M f
s en O a e ac C olo isati o n n

t r t Ki f R api dit y of Tra ellin g

'

o s a e v

l
Di i i f
v s on s o i n R us s i a
F rtr
o t Ki f
e ss a e
'

Ar l t Ki f

se n a a e

I t it t i o f t h m l
ns u n or e a e

O rph f Sol di r
an s o e s
/

t Ki f A c c ou n t Oft i s e an d
f

a e

gr

l
Th e Pe t c h r s k oi MO Pr o e s s of O d es sa
n as t e r
y at Ki e t l
Obs t ac e s t o t h e I n c e ase r
Th e Milit ry a H os p it l a of O d es s a
at i i
S t u at on an d A r c hi t e c
Th e Th atre t Ii i f
e a e . r
t u e of O de ss a
O d Kie f Th e Pod ol
'

. e
 i
L m est on e at O dessa
l
P an t s at O d essa

En
li r
Pub c G a d e n s at O ds s a
s C ub at ] O dessa
gli h l
C O NT E NT S

Khers on
Mo
.

D e parture from Nik o af

.

n um en t

C aus e of H ow ard s de ath

H ow a d s

r
l
XV

y i h li
L c e -R c e e u at O
d es s a CH AP V . .

S e m n a es for Fe m a e s
i ri l
at D e s c rip tio of Khe S OH
n r

T ow H osp it al at O des a
n- s Th e Fortre s s at K h e s n r

l
Poli e O fc e at O de sa
c - s Th e T om b of Prin c e Po
Th e at re at O d e s s a t ym k i n
Th e A s e m bly R oom
s s Th e A d m a ir lt y at Khe r
a d E x c ha g e at O
n n so n

d es sa Th e G e e r k Sc hool at

Th e C athe dra an d hr
K e s on
Churc he s O dess a
at Th eMili ry S b rb t
ta u u a

The Q u a r i
an t n e at O Kh r o e s n

t Ii h
.

l
d ess a Pop l t i
u a 6
on a ers n

li h
E n g s R ac e s at O d essa Di d t g f Kh r
sa v an a es o e

A gri l r l
c u tu a E s t ab s li h
m e n t at O d es s a Pr e se n t S t at e of Khe r
C r
om m e c e of O d essa s On

Fr au d s at t h e us t om C i abak s In R us s i a

h
ou s e of O dess a D e p arture from Khe r

l
F y
an c -w or kin son

p l i
Po u at on of O des sa Th e R I v e r I n u e t s g l
O d ess a a Fr
e e Po t r l
P an t s i n t h e Sou t h of

p li i C
I m o t c on du c t of th e
i
R u ss an G ov e n m e n t r Tart ars w ith Bu c h as r

r
P e se n t Me as u e s t e r Be r i s af
p e ti g
s c n Ferrie s of t h e Dn p e r
i g

l
A n e c d ot e s " A m us n S c e n e
D p r r
e a t u e fr OIn Odessa g
Passa e of t h e Dn p e r
C ly
ob e h
K ac k a
m Pe e ork p
k

l
Ph d or a F rr
Th e o t e ss of Pe e o rk p
Arri lv a at Nik o a e f" r i
The A m e n an Ba a z r

l
gi g l
L od n s e e c t e d by th e l k
Th e Sa t -L a e s of t h e
li
Po c e K r im e a
ir l r ig
A dm a G e " f li h r i
A oo s P a c t c e
ikO f

l
D rip i
esc t on of N ae Tr r
A n e c d ot e s of a a t a
Dpe ot d e Cr a te s an d G l T rt r Vill g
u s a, a a a a e

M u s e um at Nik o a f D yurm en

Th eD k oc s at Niko a ef D g r y f t h Kri
e e n e ac o e

m T rt r
e an a a s

Po f Nik Oa f
p ulatio O n e Th E m p eror A l x d r
e e an e
 l
x vi C ONTE N T S .

l
Je w ish C e m e t e ry

l

Sar abII z e Th e
l
S u t an K att - Ghr r i i rT h ft
nea c u u Ka "

ll
ri
K m Gh r r i Th e Gr k M ee on as t e ry
Sym p h e r op o e . r B k t hi
nea a c se r a i

Fi ne C h rl
at e d a at Sy m Th e I n uen c e of the

p h e r op o e I m gi t ia na on 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

r
P e s e n t St at e of Sy m Dre of t h
ss e Ka r it
a e

Jew s

l
p h e r op o e
Cli m at e O fSym p h r op o e Di in e
v S e r vI c e of the
A Tr rC
a ta offe e -H ou s e K araite J e ws
M ah om e d an W o s r hip Th e S c ot c h Mi
ss i on a ry
Mr .St e v e n , t h e Nat u at Bak t c hi se r ai 0 0 0 0 0

l
r a is t Th e Mrh
e c an t s of B ak

M ad am e Pa as ll t c hi s e r ai "
L oc u s t s at Sy m p h e r o J r y fr a t chi mBk

lll
ou n e o
se a rit o

A T rt r F i
a a r man Th e C a er v ns of In k er
Sb a, the E s t at e of Mr . m an
I nsa ub t l ri y f th A i f o e r o

Cl oth Ma ufac t ory n of the a V ll y f I k r e o n e

Mr Bo o di . r z n m an
rri l i l p r M f ry

l
A va n t h e Pa ac e of Sa t e t e an u ac t o

Bak t c hi s e r ai L oc u s t s i n t h e K r i m e a
rri l

l
A v a at S e v a st o o e
p
CH A P . VI . A n e c d ot e O O O O O O O O O O OO O O O O O O

ir l
A d m a BaI i e
The Pa l ac e of Bak t c hi g ry
R o ue at S e v as t O p O e

C lle ti
o c on O f C at s
M au s o e um s l of th e Th e Bay of S e v as t op o e
K h an s of Kr im e a the Th e Fl
e e t of t h e B ac l k
i
R e n ov at on oft h e Pa ac e l Se a
D rip i

ll

of Bak t c h i s e r ai esc t on of Se v as t o
D e s c t on of Bak t c hi
rip i
S e r aI Po p ulatio n of S e v zi s t o
Po p l ati o
u n of Bak t c hi p ole
s e rai

T c hi fut -K a
Th e K a a t e e w s ri J CH A P . VI I .

C os t um e of t h e K a r ita e

Je w s D e p art ure from S e s va

l
S y ag og
n ue s of t h e Ka t op ole
r ai t e Ser i c e of th e Tart ars
v

M l
aus o e u m an d R om an i
A n c e n t Ch e r s on e s u s
t ic i t ry H s o Of t h e rg
S t Ge o e s
.

on as t e M ry
D ght r f T k t
au e o a a Th eVl a e of B a a av a l kl
mi h s C l l
o on e R e v o i ot i 0 0 0 0 0 0
 l kl
Ba a ava G e e S o
ir
d e s
.

C on u e s t of th e K r i m e a
q
Th e R u ss an i
r k l C O N T E NT S .

D e p op ulatio
K r im e a
I ns e c u t ri y
of P o e t
i n t he Kr im e a
n Of

r p ry
t he
xv i i

Th e Fo t e ss of B a a
rr lk C rr p Ci il
o u t v A dm Im s
lav a t r at i on i n t h e Kri
r
Th e Po t of B a a av a l kl m ea

l
M ou n t ai n R oad s Cre e d i n R u ssI an L e gI s
The V ll y
a e of l tia on
Th e Vill g
a e of Th e E m p e ror A le x a d r n e
Th e Pass of M e e r dv e e n Po u at p l io of t h e Kri n

T h e S out C oas t of t h e
h m ea
Krim e a Classe s of t h e POp u a

K II t c h uk -K oi K e . ik i
t on of t h e
Charac t e r of t h e T rt ars a

of t h e
Kr im e a
S i m ae u s C l i
o on e s i n t h e K r I m e a

i r r
Th e L t e at u e of t h e
Tart ar Villag e s , an d Ta r T rt r a a s

l
l
t ar H ouse s , I n t h e Kri Their P e try o
m ea " Th ir G ography
e e

i o of the Ki
.. .

Subj e c t n r Th ir e
m e an T rt r
a a s Th ir P bli S ho l
e u c c o s

T r k ta h S k S
a a s . u - u
A Gre ek Mon as t ery E bu z i

l
Tilli g i n n th e K r i m e a
Nik it a B ot an i c Grd
a en K ar ass ubaz ar
Yu r s u f . A yu C r
om m e c e of K arass u

K II t c h u k -L am p at z r
ba a
hi
Sc s t us " F rtr l i k
o e s s- e Khan at

l

A II sh t a K ar ass ubaz ar n

K II r u M f
an u ac t u e s of r K aras

K II t c h u k -U e n z
Arri l v a at p l io
Po u at n of K arass u
Tr r
a ta W o s r hip zr
ba a
T c h ban -K a Tri ity Su
n n day
Dp t of M e di c i n es in
K utlak t heK r im e a .

x r r i ry
E t ao d n a A n e c d ot e
Ci il M i l
v ed ca S ta f i n f

l
C HA P . V I II . i
R u ss a
C ri
e m e t e e s of t h e Tar
Th e Vl k
a e O f S u da t r a s

p ri l Vi y r
Th e I m e a n e a ds D e olat i o ofth
s n e Kr im e a
at S u d ak A n e c d ot e . Drive in
C l
Th e ast e of Su da k Te e as g
V O L -L
 l
xvii i C O NTE NTS .

Thu n d e -s t or rm at Sym Th e S t on e of Tm t ar a
h ro o e k an
p e p
A rri l
v a a t K a a
'

Th e T
ow n of a m an T
A n e c d ot e A nc . i e nt Th e T c h r n om Or sk i i K o
z k
as
A pp r
e a an c e o fKIfa a Th e Fo c e s of am an
r T
Th e Bay of m C ass c G oun d
l i r
D e s c rip tio n Of K af
fa T m li
u u . Bgh as
Pop ulatio n of K affa Se y
nna a O O O O O O OOO O O O O O O O O O O OO

Q u aran tin e K a a at Pe r e p i Sk a
C r
om m e c e of K affa Dre ary Dr I v e I n th e K u
M u s e um O f K affa ban
C i
o n s at K a ffa R u ss an D e c e t on
i pi 0 0 0 0 0 0

T e m r k
A rri l
v a at K u r t c h an sk a a
y
CH A P . IX . A Vi sit /cm or O bse v at o r ry

l
A n dr i v s k oi R e d oubt
D e p art ure from Fo t e ss e s , an d P u e t s ,
rr iq
K e rt c h i n t h e K ubn
Pop ulati on of D e s c e n t of th e Ci r c as
A dm ir lt y t K rt h
a a e c i
s an s

F rtr
o d A t i q it
e s s an n u I es K Opi Th e T c h r n oi
.

t K rt h
a e c . r k
P ot o
R rh
e se a c f M des o . e K pa k y
o ns a a0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

B ii k
r t K rt h
c s a e c A rri l t Y k t ri
va a e a e n od a r
M m t
e f M it h
e n os o rI Q r ti
u a an f Y k ne o e at e r i

d at e s at dar
no

r r i
Ne w Po t , Q u a an t n e , A C ir i Pmc ass an r c e an d

l
an d P an of hi S i t s u e ..

D p r r fr
e a tu e r h
om K e t c Pr t
e sen s t th Ci o e r c as

Milit ry a

Y ik l I t F r tr M r Cir

en a e . s o e ss an oe u v e s of t h e
Di pp i t m t i t h
sa o n en n e

P g f th B
assa e o e os Pri s on at Ye k at e ri n od a r
p h or us F rt r
o e ss at Ye k at e ri no

r r h
R e tu n t o Ke t c dar
S e c on d D p r r fr
e a tu e om C athe d a l at Ye k at e ri
r no

K e tc r h . . dar
g
Passa e of t h e B os p h o Ci r c ass I an P ri s on e s 0 0 0r 0 0 0

r us D e s c rip tio n of Ye k at e r
Th e I s an d l of Tam an i n odar
Ph an agor i i Po p latio u n of Ye k at e r i
Churc h at T m a a n nod ar
A t i q u i t i e s t T am
n a n Th e A t am an of t h e
Passio of D e s tru c t io
n n T c h r n om Or skii K O
of t h e z k
as
 C O N TE N T S . xix

Th e Tc h r n o m r s k u K o r
R e t u n t o K a ass r
z k 407 R e c e t on by pi Mr Jac k

l
a s .

D e p t r from
ar u e Ye ka K on s t an ti n og r s k
t e r i n od ar 41 2 rl
Ge n e a D s bout

l
Villag e i t h s n e ib. D p rt r
e a u e from K on
T m li i t h e
u u n ib.

Th e Grebe s k i

n K oz aks 41 3 Th e Pod i m a

l
Us t K i s av Od S k ii 0 0 0 0 0

W ild Pl an t s I n the K uban 41 5 i l

A c d u ou s S i n s a t pr g
6 K i s av Ods kii
Po t
.

R og u e r y of s - M as D li y
e c ac Of th e R us
te s r .. m 41 6 Si a s n

M ou t E bo us

l
ib. n r

B e s h p aghi r 41 7 W arm Sp ri g s at n K on
Vi e w s in the ib. s t an t i n ogOr s k

A rri lva at 41 8 W a rm B th a s at K on s t an
ih
S a t S at oon . ib . t i n og r s k
M r li
o ta t
y of t h e G ov e r Th e H i M e s t c hI I c h a

r D e s c rip tio

l
n o s of 41 9 n of K on s t an
C oun t Gor s kii ib . t i n og r s k
r i
I nte m tten t e ve s F r 420 Vi i t t o Circ a ia Vil
s a ss n

D rip i
esc t on of Ge or "m 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .

gi v s k Re pa t s at a Ci c r as s i an

A rri l
va at t h e S c ot c h Nob e s

C lo y
o n , A Nob e W hip M k r - a e

P r e s e n ts to Cir i c ass an

CH A P X
l
Nob es

Pr b bl Utilit y of Mr
. .

o a e .

D e s c rip tio of n 42 3 J k ac

Milit ary G uard at K arass 42 4 Mo t i Trib

un a n e s of th e
D is e as e s at K arass 42 5 C au c as us
Th e R e Mr Bru t on
v. . n ib . A r t ic e of t h e oun M
Gov e rn m e n t of K aras s 427 t ain e e r s
L an ds of K aras s ib . M ah om e dan i s m
C ult ure at 4 28 Fri ly Cir i
end c as s an s

Pot at oe s a t K a ass r ib. M i r

oun t a n e e s in the
Re ligi
ou s O n on s of pi i i ri
R u s s an S e v c e
r rgi

l
k

l
igh R e t u n t o G eo ev s
'

t h e M ah om e d an Ne
r
bou s O f K ar ass
-
D p r r fr
e a tu e om Geor
I n t e n d e d B a t s m of an pi
O sse t i n i an 4 33 D e ll n ea r Pa l v ovs kay a
R an s om e d M
ou n t a n e e s i r ib . Ye k at e r i n ogr a d
Vi is t t o th e ou n t a n M i P v od s k oy
A m us n Sc e n e i g
Vi ew of Mo un t C au c a M od k . .

p l i
Po u at on of M od k
a ?
XX C ONTE NT S .

P age
C om m e rc e O f M oz d 6k 45 5 Alp i Pl t
ne an s 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

r
St e e t s an d H ou s e s Of Mi eral Spri g
n n s

l
M od k ib . An
D p r r fr
e a tu e om o do 45 6 M z k T he H ill R i Go
- r

Th e i f) . Th e M o t i of
un a n th e

Al x
.

R e d ou bt of r
e an d e ib . Cross 48 2
C p ii C r
om os t on of a a av an 457 A s c e n t oft h e Goot -G o a r 48 3
D p r r fr l x
om A e Criti c ism s
4
e a tu e
r
an d e s R e d ou bt 45 8 B asaltic R oc k 48
ih
B an s m e n t of th e Tc h i t D e s c e n t of t h e G oot
45 9 (I or a m
Mi i ry
o

C
R e d oubt O f on st an t n e 460 i K ash ar . ta St a
i

l
R e d oubt of 461 t on s
Vl ik k z Fr for H o r in the

l
ad av a 4 62 a e ses

F rr Vl ik k z
o t e s s at ad av a 4 63 C au c asus "
hp C om plain t of t he K0

l
S o s at 464
D p r r fr
e a tu e Vl i
om ad z ak s

l
k k z
av a T e ii u t i an s
if l
B e aut u De e h ir r l
A Cat t e O ac e
M ak si m kin a i g lr ih
S n u a Pu n s m e n t
De e of L a s r C ll i T x
o e c t on of a es

l
Vill g
a e of rg
Th e A a u a
De e of B a e ri l C on d u c t of an O ss e t I
n ani
CHA P XI
Th e Vale of P s a a oo a s n n r 48 8
Fort of Passa
. .

Th e na

De e of
Ba e ri l oor
n

Vi e w of t h e Th e Q u ara t i of A a
n ne n

rr
Subt e an e an R oad oor
n

l
Th e Th e F ortre s of A a s n

pr
I m ov e m e n t s of R oad s oor
n . 490
i n t h e C au c as u s Th e Churc h of A a n

Th e Fo t e s s of B a e
rr ri l 56 .

Th e A n c e n t C as t e O f
i l Ne w Q u aran tin e 49 1
Dar i " C l
Th e as t e of Du sh t ib .

oun t a n T be s O f t he
.

M i ri T
Th e ow n of u s et D h 492
C au c as us l ghi g
P ou n in Ge o a rgi ib .

I m p oli ti c C on d uc t of Th e Vl a e of A a ua rg ib .

K har t i sk ar s t M sk e t
. 4 93
Villag of K bk e az Th e K oo r 4 94
I h bit a t s of K az bek
n a n C h rl
Th e at e d a of M s k e t 495
M o t i of K azbek
un a n r i
I n t od u c t on of s Chri
C th dr l of K az bek
a e a t i an i t yi n t o Ge o a rgi 4 96
M o t Z io
un n T r
Th e s a s of 4 97
K Obi A n e c d ot e 49 8
D e p art ure from K obi C
1

g
Pass a e of t h e au c as us 55 .
 l
l
C O NTE N T S . xxi

CHA P . X II . G e n e ral Ye r m of s

H ou s e "
Ti i
.

R om an B d ri g e ov e r th e r
Th e A s e n a at s
K oor li
T h e Pub c G a d e n s a t r
C a er
v rM k t
n s n ea s e Ti i s
rk bl Ch g

l ll
R em a a e an e of The Dp
e ot d e a t e s at C r
Ti i s
Vi e w f o m q r
Ne w S ua e at TiI s
A rri al at Tii
v s A n e c d ot e
L od gi g s at
n C l
Th e as t e of Ti i s
G ral Ye m oof
en e r r
Th e S ubu b, A v abar i
G e ral
ne F rr
O d o t e ss of Ti i s
Mr G ba i t c h "
. ra r . Th e Cr
ow n -B at s at h
H i t ory of
s Ti i s
D eri atio of i t s Nam e
v n Ch am p ooi n g at Ti i s
Si t u t io of Tii s
a n Lu u x ry of t h e Ti I s
Pop lat io of Tii s
u n B aths O O O O O O O O O O O O O OO O O O O O O

D i i io s of Ti
v s n Is T e m p erat re of u th e
A pp ara c of Ti i s
e n e W rm a Sp ri g s n of

S tr e t a d H ou se s of
e s n Ti i s
Ti i s . The ir G e ral N t ur ne a e

B oor d oofcs of W i ne Mi er logi l R e m ark s

n a ca

C urre n t Mon e y at Ti i s Si g ul r Di e r i o
n a v s n

Th e B az ars at C orr p tio of Moral

u n s

C aravan sarais at Ti i s A n A lbin os

 L IST O F T H E V IGN E TT E S

T H E FI R S T VO L U M E

No

2
I .

.
.

s n
n
C H A PT E R I
A R u ssia O f c e r Tra e lli g i a Te ga
CH A P I I
R u s ia Trave lli g i W i t e r M od e of Draw i g
n n
v n

n
.
n

.
.

l n

W at e r C ost um e of t h e Pe as a t s
. s n

C H A P III . .

3 . A Vi e w of O d e a w i th i t s C ath e dral i t h e
ss , n

CH AP I V . .

4 . Th e Pla of O d ess a
n

CH A P V . .

5 . A R u s i a K abak o Tippli g h ou se
s n , r n -

CH AP V I . .

6 . Mau ol e um s of t h e Kha s of t h e K im e aat Bak t c hi

s n r

s ra i
e .

CH AP V I I . .

7 . Th e M ou t ai A y u D agh a d t h e Vill ag e Yu uf i
n n -
, n rs , n

t he Kr I m e a

l
CH A P . V III .

8 . Th e Vale of S u d a k
CH AP I X . .

9 A Vi s ca , Obs e rvat ory i t h e K uba

l
. or ,
n n

CH AP X . .

10 . W rm B th
a a s at K on st an t i n ogor s k , an d K alm uk Kibi t k as
CH AP . X I .

11 . Th e A I I CI e n t C astle of Dar i , an d the B d ri g e of the

CH A P X I I . .

12 . R om an B d ri g e an d T ow e rs on th e K oor
, , in 5 04
 B Y TH E S
l
l
L ate y p u6 i she a ,

A M E A UTH O R

In on e l rg
a e l
v o um e 4 t o, P ri ce 41 . 43 . r
boa ds , w t ih a l
P an ,
an d n u m e ou s r En gr i g av n s, by E DW A D FI ND
R E N,

T H E CH A R A CTE R O F T H E R U S S I A N S,
A ND A

D E T A IL E D H I ST O R Y O F M O SC O W .

W i th Di rt ti
a ss e a th R
on on i L g ge d e A ppus s an an ua ; an an en

di x c,
t i i g T bl
on a n n P lit i l St t i t i l
a e s, d H i t ri l ;
o ca , a s ca , an s o ca

an A t f t h I m p ri l A gri
c c ou n o e lt r l S i t y f M w ;
e a cu u a oc e o os c o

a C tl g
a a o f Pl t f
ue o d i d
an s rM w ou n E y n an n ea os c o an ssa

on t h e O ri gi d Pr gr
n an f A r hit e t r i R
o i &c &
ess o c c u e n u ss a, . c .

A l s o, a Pam phle t Pri c e

, 23 6d. .

AN A CC O UNT

TH E OR GA N I Z A T I O N A D M I N I S T R A TI O N
, , A ND
P R E S E N T ST A T E

OF TH E

M I L I T A R Y CO L O N I E S I N R U S SI A ,
W ith an A PP E N D I X , ii g
c on t a n n St at i ti l T bl
s ca a e s, &c 81 0
. .

L on don P ri nt e d for T C ad ell

. i n the St , ra nd ; an d
W . Blac k w ood, E d n bu i rgh .

Jus t p r i ntedf or the A utor , a nd t o be bad at 45 H ag m ar /t et ,

.

A N A NSW E R

T H E O B SE R VA TI O N S O N TH E A B O VE W O R K S
C O N TA I NE D I N

No 8 1
. . O F T HE Q UA R TE R L Y R E VI E W .
 C H A PTE R I .

D EPAR T UR E F R O M M O S C O W K O L OM E N S K OY E T SA R I T S I N
. . .

PO D OL S K C R A VE N
. I M A GE S C A T H A R I NE I I A N D. .

C O UNT M O M ONO E S EL O M OL O D I
. C R I T I CI S M O N D R . .

C L A R K E - L A PAS NA
. r S U N D AY M A R K E T
. S E M E O NO V .

S K O YE . I L L U S T R A T I O N O F R U SS I A N N A T I O N A L C H A R A C T E R

l
A N D M A NNE R S G E N E R A L N A S TC I I OK I N M I N E R A L W A T E R S
. .

O F S E M E O N O V S K O Y E S ER P UC H O F . C UR I O U S C U S TO M S . .

THE RI VE R O K A. VO S A N K . V O L O T YA . PO S TM AS T E R S
TR I CK T UL A A RM AB R I C
-F

l
. . .

l
O N the 1 0 th 2 d
N S ) April 1 8 2 2 a p r epar
(2 . . .
, ,

at i on s hav i n g bee n m ad e for a lon g j o u r n ey our ,

p o d orojn was d u ly registered a t the post ho u se -

,

a n d the sm ot r i te accord in g to c usto m rece ived

'

, ,

O der rf p or hr
ost - o se s .
1 Post -m ast e r .

V OL . I .
2

l l
D E PA R T U R E F R O M

a do uce ur for his tro ub e We soo n reached th e

! mum of which bei n g let down by a se n ti n

.

barrier of Sr p u c hof (as it is called ) the sch ag

el ou I
M o sc o w .

progress was preve n ted O n e of ou r servan ts de

.

sce n de d to the o f cer on d u ty got t he podor oj

n ,

l
d uly e n tered i n the book kept on p u rpose an d ,

gav e the clerk the u s u al drin k m oney ; we were

l
the n allowed to proceed an d le ft Moscow behi n d
,

us .

The village Dan i o vskoy e i m m ediately witho ut,

the barri er warn s the traveller that he is i n st an t a

,

n e ous tra n slated fro m the an cie n t capital of R ussi a

y
to the co un try T he s n ow h avm g but l ately dis
.

appeared we fo un d the road i n m an y places very

,

bad an d i n others extre m ely wi n di n g At the dis

,
.

tan ce Of three an d Of s i x vers ts fro m two hills , ,

we had beau ti ful birds eye View s of the i m m e n se

-

an d m ag n ice n t capital of the an cie n t Tsar s wh i ch , ,

i n m y opi n i o n are far m ore i n teresti n g than t he

,

l
well k n ow n an d celebrated view fro m the Spar
row hill The city i s spread be fore u s u po n an
- .

exte n sive plai n It has the form of a cresce n t

.
,

with the DOn sk oi m o n astery on the west the ele

v at e d K r e m e with the i m perial palace the tower ,

i ng Ivan V elikii a crowd of m o n asteries an d

,

c h u rches s u rm o u n ted by n u m ero u s resple n de n t

,

ilded an d pai n ted do m es i n the ce n t r e ; a n d the

g
Si m e onov sk oi m o n astery on the east The river . .

Moskva owi n g thro ugh the city ; i n nu m erable

ch u r c hes an d towers ; gilde d tin n ed an d pai n ted , ,
 K O L OM E N S K O Y E . 3

s pires an d do m es an i m m en s ity of b uildin gs great

a n d s m all with their wh i te yellow bl u e gree n an d
, , , , ,

p u rple walls an d their red an d gree n bl u e an d

, ,

black roofs exte n d in g all arou n d i n m an y places

, ,

i n ter m i xed with s m all woode n s o m bre looki n g -

ho u se s s u rro un d ed by ope n spaces trees garde n s

, , , ,

a n d parks , all e nc ircled with the foliage an d the

gree n coveri n g of n at u re of t he d i versifi ed e n vi ro n s ,

co n trib u te t o ll u the e n chan ti n g pa n oram a

p
Fro m the variety of obj ects an d s u r faces a d e c om ,

pos i tio n an d reecti o n of light a d iverge n ce an d ,

m i xtu re of t he solar rays a glitteri n g or rathe r ,

dazzli n g sple n do u r are prod u ced which com bi n ed , ,

l
w i th the n u m ber t he m agn itu de an d th e beau ty
, ,

O f m an y of th os e O bj ects h as an e ffect u po n t he
,

l
beholder i m pos in g an d i nd e sc r ibable ; his won de r
a n d a d m i ratio n are e xcited .

ll
K o m e n sk oy with i ts old ch u rches an d pyra
,
-

m idal towe rs charm i n gly s i t u ated a m id garden s

,

l
a n d trees on t h e Mos k va r i ver rises u po n the eft
, , .

This vi lla was the favo u rite reside n ce of the Tsar

A e x ii M i c h ai ov i t c h an d d i sp u tes the ho n or of
,

havin g given birth to Peter the Great with the old ,

palace i n the K r e m e of W e passed

the road wh i c h con d ucts to T sar i tz i n an d s oon ,

afterwards the gloo m y pavilio n s of this bea utifu l

i m p erial ret reat b u rst u po n the sight tho ugh at a
, ,

c o n siderable d ista n ce We re m arked differe n t n o

.

C harac t r ofe i
t h e R uss an s, &c . p . 1 76 .

B 2
4

ll PO D O L SK

l
.

b em en s seats both on the right an d le ft an d
,
.
,

passed thro ugh a n u m ber of villages as T r ube t ,

s k o a n d M o ot si be fore reachi n g the rst s tati o n

y , .

l
The r oad was full of deep hollows an d extre m e y ,

wi n din g I n m an y places we were obliged t o walk

.

l
l
the horses ; i n others d itches were to be crossed ;
an d we w ere frequ e n tly o n the om t of bei n g over
p
t urn ed W he n i t was possible to trot t he j
. o ti n
g ,

was m ost d isagreeable an d gave a co m plete idea ,

l
of the roads of R u ssia i n t h e s p r i ng Near Pod sk .
,

an d n early thirty three versts fro m t h e - an cien t

c ap i tal i s a large squ are col u m n which i n di cates
, ,

the co n tigu ou s bo un daries of the districts of M OS

c ow an d PodO sk Here the ban ks of the Pachra
.

are woody an d r o m an t i c The oati n g bridge .

,

u s u ally fo un d i n the village i n s u m m er not h avi n g ,

bee n r e establ i shed si n ce the breaki ng u p of the

-

i c e we crossed this r iver u po n a ra ft a

,
n d lan ded ,

ll
O pposite the post ho u se Havi n g delivered our
-
.

p odor o n
jby the al m ost
, i n fallible expedie n t of

drin k m on ey we obtai n ed horses i m m ediately

-
, .

Podole or Pod olsk was form erly reckon ed a

, ,

s e o or village with a ch u rch
, but i t was co n sti ,

t ut e d a di strict to w n i n t h e reig n of Cathari n e the

-

Secon d Pau however took away its dign i ty by

.
, ,
.

m aki n g it a village ; bu t the prese n t m o n arch ap ,

provi n g Catharin e s plan s a secon d ti m e dign ied ,

i t w ith the ap pellation of town The Pachra a .

By m istak e , this ri ver is n am ed the M och a by CL A R K E .

T ravels, p 1 7 4 . .
 CR AVE N IM AG E S . 5

ri ver of co n siderable Size at least i n the spri n g , ,

divides Podolsk i n to two parts ; the co m m un ic ation

betwee n which i s m ai n tai n ed i n wi n ter by the ice ,

i n spri n g by a raft a n d i n s u m m er by a oati ng

bridge .

Podols k thou gh but thirty three versts from

,
-

Moscow a distri ct tow n an d i n a pop ulo us n eigh

, ,

bou r hood con sists ch i ey of a si n gle street c on

, ,

tai n s n ot m u ch above a h u n dred hou ses a few of ,

'

which are b u ilt of ston e an d has but a paltry ap ,

p e ar an c e T h e . large edice for the trib u n als of

t he distri ct a ch urch dedicated to the res u rrecti o n

, ,

an d a n other n e te m ple n ow erecti n g chiey at ,

tract n otice The n um ber of its i n hab itan ts I ,

'

shou ld s uppose over rate d at 1 000 so uls It w as

,
-
,
.

l
_

b u rn ed d u rin g the cam paign of the Fren ch i n

1 8 1 2 an d thro u gh it part of K u t I I z of s arm y passed
, ,

whe n that ge n eral by a m ost m asterly m ove m e n t

, ,

after his retreat to Moscow m arched from the ,

Kol om n a to the K a II ga road an d th u s got i n to ,

the rear of the Fre n ch arm y Upon the s u ccess .

'

or fail u re of this m an oeuvre the fate of the R u ssian

forces an d perhaps of R u ssia depen ded
, , .

I n con se q u e n ce of the atte n tion which I had

paid to the religio n of t he R u sSi an s an d especially ,

to their worship of grave n i m ages n ot pict u re s .

or pain ti n gs two s m all prayer-houses m erited

parti c u lar exam i n ation O n e of these edices
.

c ha svn a is sit ated n the n orth west side O f

'

( T y ) u o -

the Pachra an d p on t ai n s a solid represen tati on of

,

B 3
6 R U SS I AN CL E R G Y .

the c r ucixio n s urrou n ded by s m all statues of t he

,

V irgi n Mary an d the sai n ts I n an other prayer .

~

h o u se on the so uth west side of the sam e river i s

-
,

t o be see na h as relief brass i m age of St Nicholas

- .
,

n early si m ilar to t h e fa v orite i m ages of this sai n t ,

w hic h I hav e elsewhere parti c u larly described

.
*
.

l
The to m b of Christ with sai n ts arou n d it an d the
, ,

d u n geon i n wh i ch he is s i ttin g i n a m elan choly

.

atti t u de w ith a black m an tle throw n over hi m

, ,

a n d an arm ed g u ard on eac h side for m a ki n d of ,

i r on osms or tran sept an d o n ly cla i m n oti ce be

, ,

cau se all the gu res which are abo ut a foo t i n ,

h eight appear to be c ut out of wood or s om e

,

other sol i d s u bsta n ce an d receive the hom ag e of ,

the pass i n g peasan try a n d at least the r e ver ence ,

l
eve n of the n obles an d the clergy .

.
The ign oran ce Of m an y of the last class i s bu t
too n otori o u s I h ave con versed wi th so m e w ho
.

ll
the m selves had very c on fuse d n oti on s abo u t t he
r e spect revere n ce or adoratio n of t he ho y i m ages
, , ,

an d with others who had t he fran k n ess to allow

,

that the peasan ts held the m i n the place of gods .

W hat c an be expected of a c e r gy s o ow i n the

'

s cale of S O CI e ty a s the R u ss i a n I o n ce overtook

a m o n k w ho was fatigu ed an d u n well u po n t h e
, ,

r oad to O st r of a co u n try seat , of the Co un tes s -

O rlof n ear Mosco w who m n o pers uasion co u ld i n

, ,

d uce to share m y carri age although he willi n gly got ,

Charac ter of t he R uss ians , p . 1 99 .

 l
C O UNT M OM ON O P .
7

u
p beh i n d it an d w as th u s co n veyed t o his abode
, ,

a n eighbo u ri n g m on astery N u m ero u s s u ch ex

.

l
a m p e s have co m e withi n m y O bservation wh ile i t ,

has n ot rarely happen ed that I have bee n disgu s t ed

by a co ntrary co n d uct beca u se I bore n o i nsig n ia
,
'

l
o f ra n k or hono u r The ass um ed co n sequ en ce
.

an d prete n sio n s of so m e of the priests , gc ou ed

p
W i th their extre m e i gnoran ce has Ofte n exc ite d m y ,

c on tem pt an d still ofte n er m y pity

, .

L eavi n g Pod sk we soo n passed the ne estate

,

a n d i m m e n se establi sh m e n t of Co un t M om On of,

called Dubr vi tsi wh i ch xes t he atte n tion of the

,

traveller equally fro m the history of i t s form er an d

of its p rese n t proprietor an d the bea uty an d m ag ni
,

c e n c e of the reside n ce T h e late Co un t M O

'

m On of w as on e of the favo u rites o f the E m press

'

Cathari n e II an d like the rest of the m m ade h is

.
, , ,

fortun e by the lice n tio us n ess of hi s soverei gn .

O f the i n credible s um of r oubles ,

which Cathari n e lav ished u po n her favou rit es i n

t he Co u rse of thirty fo u r years M om On of whose
-
, .

l
"

r e i n e n d u red bu t twe n ty six m o n ths received

g
-
,

o n ly the s m all share of tho ugh still a

han dso m e fortun e Poty m k i n alo n e received
.

above an d the ve brother s of the

O r ofs had abo v e ro ubles di vided ~

am o n g the m S u ch un warran te d prodigali ty of

.

the p ublic reve n ues acco m pan ied by th e m ost

,

S ham eless i m m orality on the part of the E m press ,

m u st have ro u sed the i n dig n atio n an d the e n m ity

B 4
 l
8 CA T H A R I N E II . A ND

of tho usan ds of i n d ivi duals t he expressio n Of wh i ch

,

w as on ly r estrai n ed by the press ure of u n c on t r o e d

an d r eckless d espotis m .

When we recollect the m an n er i n wh i ch Catha

r i n e asce n ded the thro n e with the blood of her
,

m ur dered h u sban d u po n her head ; whe n we r e

collect t oo the s u m m ary m ode of r even ge which
aft erwards p ut an u n ti m ely e n d to the days of
Pa ul we m ay b e j u stly s u rprise d how she
, ,

with all her tale n ts her gen iu s an d her k n owle dge

, ,

of m an ki n d her Vigilan ce her pe n etration an d her

, , ,

w isdo m , who d ared so ope n ly to i n s ult h u m an ity;

s o pro fu sely t o sq u an d er away the n ati o n al m o n ey
,

yet escaped th e effect of p u bl i c i n dign ati o n an d ,

after thirty fou r years reign died a n atu ral death
-
, .

M om n of with all the favo u rs he e nj oy ed

, ,

proved an u nfaith ful favo urite The sol i d proofs .

of her fo n d n ess wh i ch Cathari n e lav i shed on h i m

cou ld n ot sec ure hi s heart although she for som e

ti m e attered hersel f that she po ssessed i t T he .

w i ly sovereig n at le n gth discovered t h at Pri n ce ss

St c h er bat of was the obj ect of M om n of s ador
ati on an d co n sen ted t o their m arri age as a meas u re
, ,

of wi se pol i cy at the ti m e Bu t it appears pr etty

.

l
evi den t that reven ge ran kled i n h e r heart an d that ,

sh e o n ly awai ted an opport un ity or a prete n ce for

i n dulgi n g it w hich she at le n gth di d i n a m an n er

, ,

s o u n worthy of her sex so i n decoro u s an d so des

, ,

p o t i c,a that the act leaves a st i g m a of ig n om i n y

U po n h e r characte r which ti m e w i ll n ever e ac e ;

 C O UN T M OM O OF N .
9

It was allege d that M om Onof co m m uni cated t he

secrets of hi s am orou s i n tervie w s w i th Cathari n e

l
to his la dy w h o divu lged the m wi th a levity i nj u
,

r i ou s to that sover eign But the pri n cess had oc

.

casion to repe n t t his i n d i screti on O n e n ight after .

s h e an d her h u sban d h ad reti red to r est their cham ,

ll
bers were en tered by t he m aster of the po i c e an d
s i x of his m yr m i do n s disg u ised as wom en \
, who ,

sei zed the pri n cess stripped her an d i n icted upon

, ,

h er t he m ost degrad i n g corporal p un i sh m e n t of ,

whic h M om On of was an un wi l in g spectator being ,

l
}

obliged t o rem ai n on his k n ees d uri n g the op er

ati on The m aster of the police con cl u ded his
.

u n welco m e vis i t by i n for m i n g his Vi ct im s that thi s

ll
was th e way i n wh i ch the E m press p un i shed a rst
i n d i scret i o n an d that a secon d wo uld be fo l o w ed
,

by ban ish m en t to Siberi a .

M om On of h i m self w as a very capri c i o us cha

r ac t e r e s e c i a i n h i s o d age an d so fo n d of
p y
'

, ,

show that eve n whe n he d in ed alon e for ty or fty

, ,

covers were put u pon the table At hi s death .

,

his fortun e fell i nto the han ds of his son the ,

prese n t coun t a very ecce n tri c bei n g D u ri n g

, .

the late i n vasi o n of R u s s ia by the Fren ch m oved ,

by an en th u siasti c spirit of patriotis m which hi s ,

l arge fortun e en abled hi m fu lly to dem on strate he ,

l

rai s e d an d co m pletely equipped a thou san d troop s
at h i s own e x p en c e an d then ten der ed their ser
,

Vide Life of C ath arin e I L , vo . iii p

. . 31 1 . an d 88 5 .
10 M OL O DI SE L O

v ices to his sovereign The c om m an d of this

.

regi m e n t was give n to hi m , an ho n or wh i ch I be ,

lieve he re tain ed eve n i n Ger m an y an d Fran ce

,

bu t so m e I rregularities havi n g bee n co m m i tted ,

the co un t was r equeste d t o r esig n his si t uati on

l
w hi c h /was tan tam o un t t o an irres i stible order To .

a yo un g an d arde n t m i n d an x iou s for m ilitary

,

glory the disgrace was i n s u pportable : he with

,

ll
drew fro m the world an d retired to Dubr OV i t si ,

w here he still lives i n co m plete solit u de A hi s .

Orders are give n t o his steward i n writi n g : all his

are ordered i n n otes an d wh en placed upon

,

tab e the servan ts retire Private walks are

, ,
.

m ade i n the ga d e n an d whe n he goes to c hu I c h

, ,

it is thro ugh a covered aven u e i n to whic h n o n e

,

w e allowed to e n ter . His devotio n s p e r fO I m e d ,

lll
he retu r n s to his solitary apar t m e n t I n fac t the
'

.
,

lll
Co u n t is a herm it i n a m agn i c e n t pal ace Report .

says he is occ up i ed i n the co m pos i ti on of a l i ter

,

ary work .

Seven tee n versts beyo n d Pod sk i s M o odi S e o ,
'

or the vi ag e wi t h a chur ch M odi which belo n gs

to Madam e K r otk of The ch u rch i m posi n g at a ,

l
sh ort distan ce fro m i ts gau dy colo u rs an d pai n ti n gs ,

an d n ot i n elegan t i n its architectu re the two

s t O I i e d h o u se of the proprietor the fan tastic ga .

de n s ; an d n um erou s pillars on each side of the

road betwee n wh i ch we passed on qu itti n g the Vil
,
.

lage ; thou gh m ostly i n bad taste yet by the , ,

si n g ular con trast wh i ch they for m to the so m bre

 l
C R I TI C I SM ON DR C L A R KE 11

l
. .

w oode n dwelli n gs of the peasan try relieve the eye , ,

a t least by vari ety

, .

A ltho ugh I resided for so m e ti me n ear S o

M O odi I n ever heard that i ts late lord an d m aster
, ,

Mr K r ot k of was gu ilty of un u s u al cru elty to his

.
,

l
slaves yet on e of the m ost striki n g pictu res of the
,

oppressio n u n der wh i ch Dr Clarke represen ts the .

peasan ts of R u ssia to labo u r was fu rn ished by this ,

village I shall qu ote his o w n words

. A peasan t
i n the v illage of S 67 0 M o odi n ear Moscow w h o
'

, ,

had bee n fort un ate e n o ugh to scrape together a

little wealth wis hed to m arry his dau ghter to a
,

trades m an of th e city ; an d for that p u rpose that ,

she sho uld b e free he offered ftee n tho u san d

,

ro ubles for her liberty ; a m ost u n u s u al price of

freedo m an d a m u ch greater sum than perso n s of
,

l
his class situ ated as h e was will be fo un d to pos
, ,

sess The tyran t took the ran som ; an d then told

.

the father that both the girl an d the m on ey be

,

lon ged to hi m an d therefore she m u st still c on

, ,

t i n u e a m o n g the n u m ber of his s aves What a .

pictu re do the e facts afford of the state of R u ssia !

s

It is t h u s w e behold the s u bj ects of a vast e m pire ,

stripped of all they possess an d existi n g i n the ,

j
m ost a o e c t servit u de ; victi m s of tyra n n y an d
tortu re ; of sorr ow a nd poverty ; of sick n ess an d

l

fa m i n e .

To prete n d that s u ch i n stan ces of i nj u stice an d

cr u elty do O t occu r with so m e of a pri vileged

Clark e s Travels p

,
. 1 70 .
 l
12 C R I TI C I S M ON DR . CL AR KE .

l
an d at ti m es tyran n ical aristocracy would be t o ,

ass u m e m ore perfecti o n i n the R u ssia n s than fa l s

to the lot of h um a n ity Wherever the fe w hav e.

t he power to oppress the m an y especiall y w he n ,

withou t the least chan ce of bei n g c a l ed to ac

l
co un t the wors t O f passio n s will be n ow an d
,

the n i n d ulge d an d w i ll lead t o t he m ost i n fa m o us

,

a ctio n s I n a cou n try i n which a servan t m ay on e

.
,

m o m en t be addressed w i th the caressi n g epithet ,

M oi Go ubt chi h (m y dove or dear ) from the m o uth ,

of his lord an d the n ext by a very u s u al tran sitio n

, ,

receive a box on the ear or have his hair p u lled ,

by a capri c i ou s m aster w o u ld it be reason able t o

,

expect n o extraord i n ary cases of i n h u m an c on

d uct ? I n adm ittin g s u ch an occu rre n ce however , ,

I w ould by n o m ean s wi sh to m ake the reader be

lieve that I agree with Dr Clarke i n t h e ge n eral .

an d severe con cl u sio n which he has draw n fro m a

l
solitary case I have had som e experi e n ce i n
.

R u ssia an d have n ever k n ow n its parallel ; a sati s

,

factory proof that the circ um stan ce is n ot co m m o n .

But while I disse n t fro m his sweepi n g ce n s u re I ,

m u st n ot be un derstood to defe n d the R u ssian n ob e s

agai n st their w ell k n ow n pro m i n e n t vi ces or thei r
-
,

ge n eral dec i en cy i n m oral pri n ciples I keep be .

fore m e the great obj ect of which I have spoke n

, ,

l
at le n gth i n an other work of i m pressi n g u pon m y ,

readers that the fate of ten s of m illion s of h u m an

,

bei n gs tho ugh doom ed by n atu re to be slaves I s n ot

, ,

n early so hard as so m e writer s have r eprese n te d .

After passing S o M ol odi the r oad con tin u e d ,

 L A P ASN A 13

l
.

e qually bad an d so extre m ely wi n di ng as to dou ble

,

l
o r triple the real distan ce of the n ext statio n A bou t .

thirtee n versts from Sap h n ov a on e of the car ,

ri a es got co m pletely xed i n on e of those a

g
m ost i m passable qu agm ires wh i ch i m pede the tra

l

v e e r s progress i n spri n g an d especially on the ro a d
,

fro m Moscow to Sr p u c h of The irreg ular e fforts .

of the coach m e n an d posti ll i o n s of both eq u ipage s

were i n e ffectual they m ade m u ch n oise bu t the

, ,

l
'

c ar ri age w as i m m ov e ab e ; an d it was n ot till I took

m y seat on the box an d pers u aded the m e n to

make a s i m ultan eo u s e ffort with the horses that ,

we s u cceeded i n setti n g i t o n ce m ore i n m otio n .

O f all equ ipages the t e eg a is th e best adapted for
R u ssi a The velocity w ith whic h travellers an d
.
,

espec i ally cou ri ers proceed i n th i s si m ple vehicle

,
.

i s tr uly asto n ishin g an d is n ot overcharged by the

,

represe n tati on at the head of this chapter .

A fter a tedi o u s j ou rn ey we reached L ap asn a i n

the n ig ht a v illage s ituated on both sides of the
,

r i ver of the sam e n am e Th i s r iver is v ery shallow

.

l
a n d paltry i n s um m er an d th o ugh on the great
,

r oad fro m Mosco w to the Ukra i n e it is n ot fur ,

n i sh e d w i th eve n a oati n g bri dge This i s the .

m ore extraor di n a r y as the ford is extre m ely d i f

l
,

c u t especially on t h e so u th s i de an d carriages
, ,

are frequ en tly i nj ured greatly or brok e n to p i eces ,

i n the passage I n spri n g the river i s crossed by

.

a raft an d i n wi n te r u po n the i ce
,
.

L apasn a i s a ver y l ar ge v i age co m p osed of a ,

14 S UN DA Y M A R KE T .

lon g ran ge of hOuses on each side of the road ,

besides som e back streets or rather rows of hou ses , .

It is chiey b uilt of wood altho ugh we re m arked ,

a fe w brick hou ses on e of whic h is a ha bah or

, ,

tavern i n those days the al m ost n ever fail in g c on

,
-

co m itan t of the s m allest Vill age i n the e m pire .

I n L ap asn a a n um ber of apart m en ts are kept by

differen t i n di vid u als for the acco m m odation O f
travellers O n quitti n g Moscow s u ch roo m s are
.

gen erally reckon ed very u n co m fortable ; bu t by

the t im e a traveller has go n e over a few tho u s an d
versts of R u ssianterritory he wo uld rej oice at the !

prospect of passi n g a n ight i n the m : they ar e

palaces i n com pariso n of the lo dgi n gs which m u st
be bor n e w i t h i n the K r i m e a or the Cau cas u s , .

The in habitan ts of L ap asn a are chiey y dmstchi hs ,

or post boors an d are the greatest i m postors an d

-
,

rog u es I hav e m e t wi th i n the i r l in e of li fe du ri ng ,

m y travels i n R u ssia .

I Was pres e n t at a S un day m arket which is held ,

regularly here whe n on m y ret urn from Visiti n g a

,

patie nt i n the s um m er of 1 8 2 1 an d s topped m y

,
~

carriage am idst its b u stle an d co n fu s i on to vie w ,

l
t h e sce n e Gro ups of r u dely habite d peasan ts m ale
.
,

an d fe m ale were occ upied i n b uyi n g an d selli n g all

,

sorts of provision s for m an an d beast Coarse cloth .

,

sheep skin shoobs wool b u tcher m eat of differ

-
, ,
-
,

e n t ki n ds sa t ,co m m o n sorts of fr u it vegetable s

, , ,

spice cakes con fection s an d water m elon s were i n

-
, ,
-

ab u n dan ce earthe n dishes ready m ade win dows

, , ,
 l
iron m on ge ry w ooden dishes ap t i or shoes m ade
,
S E M E O N O V S K O YE

, l .

,
15

l
O f li n de n bark an d l i ve a n i m als, were all hu d ,

d e d together i n the greatest co n fusio n : but

what had rather a disagreeable e ffect was a n u m

l
,

ber of coffi n s pai n ted an d u n pai n ted very pro m i

, ,

n en t
y displayed u po n a car t which m e t with a ,

l
ready sale This pict ure gi ves a pretty correct
. .

idea of a R u ssian m arket i n the district town s ,

a n d v i llages t h r ou h ou t R u ssi a as wel a s the

g i n ,

co un tri es wh i ch she has eit her co n quered or trea

ll
c h er ou s y seized .

Adj oi n in g to L ap asn a there is a co un try ho u se ,

w i th exte n sive garde n s an d a cloth m an ti fac tor y ,

l
i n r uin s whic h belo n g t o on e of the m em bers
,

of t he fam i y O f V assi t c hi kof ; a fam ily wh i ch pos

sesses m an y estates i n t he n eighbou rho od and .

which has acqui red co n s i derabl e re n ow n by the

l
br av e r y of ge n eral V as si t c hik of d u ri n g the c am

aign of 1 8 1 2, 1 8 , 1 4
p .

Havi n g c h an ged hOI se s we fOi ded the Lap asn a , ,

l u ckily witho u t an y acciden t an d passed the

, ,

estate of Mr K V V assi t c hi k Of called M an i shk a

. . . .
, ,

on the left The proprietor is a si ngular charac

.

ter ; he i s a great h u n ter an d bei n g m u ch devoted ,

to botan y has or n am en ted his hot ho uses by a

,
-

well chosen tho ugh s m all collection of plan ts H e

- .

is extre m ely hospitable an d does n ot hesitate (as ,

he says ) to do E n glish hon ou rs to the bottle .

Seve n versts beyo n d L ap asn a the village of Sa ,

hO n ov a i s r em ar k able o n ly on acc oun t of a s m all

p
16 R A I -S E M E ON O V S K O Y E
.

col um n at i ts n orth e n d which i n di cate s to t he

,

traveller the r oad to Se m e on ov sk oy on e of the ,

m ost delig htfu l estates whic h I have see n i n R u s

si a
. At twelve versts distan ce fro m Sr pu c hof ,

an d j u st beyo n d the Village M osk v k a the n oble ,

l
h o u se the elegan t ch u rch an d pro ud towers O f
, ,

this villa b urst u pon our Vie w W i th a beautiful ,

lan dscape i n the foregroun d As there are m anV .

vi llages n am ed Se m e on ov sk oy i n R u ssi a an d espe ,

c ia as there is on e of the s am e n am e at n o great

y
d i stan ce which belo n gs to c oun t V lad i m i r O rlo f
, ,

the n oble propri eto r th ought proper by way of ,

d i stin cti o n to c all hi s estate R ai S em e onovs hoy l

, or -
,

Par a di se Se m e on ovsk oy I r es i ded eight m on ths

- .

a t th i s charm i n g place but alas ! I fo un d that

, ,

a ltho ugh n at u re had m ade i t a terr est r i al para di se ,

m an had m ade i t a pande m o n i u m I w ould r e .

l
l
c o m m e n d the traveller for pleas u re to m ake a de

to ur of a fe w versts i n order t o see this n e seat ,

an d he will afterwards b e co n d u cted by an agreeable

l
r oad to S r u c hof
p Se.m e on ovsk o c o m m an ds de
y
ightfu an d exten s i ve V i ews an d had the e fforts of,

m an i n i ts i m prove m e n t an d gover n m en t bee n

, ,

l
n early propo r t i o n ate to the bo u n ty of n at u re it ,

m ight perhaps have had as m an y c ai m s t o the

'

, ,

ti tle of P ar adi se as m ost sp ots on the s urface
of the globe .

I sha l n ever have a better opportun i ty of ill u s

t r at i n g the n atio n al character of the R u ss i an s than

by pau s in g a little here Wh i l e r es i d i ng i n Peters

.
 I L L U S TR A TI O N OF R USSI AN C H A R A CTE R . 17

b urgh i n the sprin g of 1 820 a yo un g m an called

, ,

u o n m e wit h a m essage fro m Ge n eral N as t c h Ok i n

p ,

who begged that I wo u ld wai t u pon hi m t he n ext

,

m or n i n g ; I did s o an d fo u n d the obj ect he had

,
.

i n View was to propose an e n gage m e n t to m e t o '

becom e his physician an d to reside at Sem e on ov ,

sk o H e i n for m ed m e that u p on t hi s e st at e
y .

there were excellen t m in eral waters which wer e .

,

frequ e n ted b y abou t twe n ty or th i rty fa m i lie s

e very s u m m er ; that the res i d en t physic ian r e
c e iv e d a r eve n u e of three fo u r or ve tho usan d , ,

roubles from the i n valids besides the salary h e ,

gave hi m self an d the p r oc e e dSof practice am on g

,

the n eighbo u rin g n obility ; an d that a m ore desir e

able situ ation was n ot to be fo un d i n the world .

I n ord er to con vi n c e m e of the certai n ty of gai n i n g

s o m u ch m o n ey h e O f fered to give m e fo u r tho us an d
,

ro ubles for the chan ce of all I shou ld get by the

l
i n valids who ca m e t o the water s But wh en I c on .

se n ted to this be exc u sed hi m self by sayi n g he

, ,

did n ot w i sh to deceive an d rob m e by taki n g

m y m o n ey w hich on s u ch co n ditio n s wo u ld cer
, , ,

t ai n y be the ca se becau se I should ass u redly gain
,

a greater su m th an fou r thou san d roubles The .

Gen eral n ow p u t i n to m y han ds a register of all the

l
person s wh o h e sai d h ad been in valids at Se m e o
, ,

n ovskoy e the precedi n g s u m m er ; m ost of w ho m ,

I afterwards discovered were relation s an d n eigh ,

bo u rs who had passed a day or two at h i s fe s

,

t i va s , an d had e njoye d the best health He .

V OL . I .
 l
18 I L L US T R M I ON 0F ~
R US SI A N

C H A R AC TE R .

n ext s howed m e a pam phlet of which I have a ,

cO py , an d which bears the followi n g title : W on

l
de r fu C ure or a Jou rn ey to the Wate r s of ou r
,

Savio u r i n the village Rai Se m e on ov sk oy wh i ch

,
-
,

belon gs to Ge n eral Nast c hok i n This pam phlet .

con si sts of eighty pages an d the pr eface i s s ign ed ,

by E I who prete n ds t o have bee n an O d vale

. .
,

t u di n ar i an O fce r wh o had bee n every where i n

,

l
s earch of health an d at le n gth fo un d i t i n Parad i se
,

S e m e on ovsk oy For the bene t of h

. i s co un try m e n

h e m ake s k n ow n his ow n case r ecom m e n ds i n ,

high st r ai n s the m i n eral waters of our Sav i ou r an d ,

gi ve s a d etai led ac c oim t of Ge n era Nast c hoki n s

celeb r ated Vi llage Agai n an d again he i s lavi s h

.

t o fulso m e n ess i n praise of the propr i et or d rag s ,

i n a short poem wh i c h was co m posed by an i h

valid as a m ark of hi s grati tu de an d eve n m ost ,

u n appropri ately bestows the celebrated w ords of

Catharin e I I wh i ch were m erited by Pri n c e

.
,

O rlof u po n the hero of h i s the m e

,

R u ss ia ha s s uc h

The reader will be as m u ch s u rpri sed as I was on

learn in g that th i s paragon of p erfecti on was h i s

l
own b i ographer an d w i th the assistan ce of a yo u n
, g

The E m p r ess C atharin e I I h ad a m e dal s truc k i n hon our

.

of Pri c e O of s s u c c ess i n q u ellin g t h e re be lli on an d e xp e l

n r ,

lin g t he plag ue from M os c ow ; on on e side of whic h i s h is

p ortrait an d t h e othe r re p re se ts h i m i n t h e charac t e r of C urtius
, n

l e ap ing int o t he gulph with the above in scrip tion i n R ussian

, .
 I L L U ST R ATI O N OF R US SI A N C H A R A C TE R . 19

m an who m h e chose t o call h i s police m aster -

,

co m posed the pam phlet an d p ubl i shed i t at his ,

ow n e x en c e .
p

l
But to retu rn h i s E xcellen cy n ext i n for m ed m e
,

that there was an apothecary s shop which w as ,

p r ivi leged i n his Village : th i s I fo un d so far

*

correct th at the shop existed bu t i t was n ot p r i vi

,

e ge d , altho ugh an atte m pt had been twice m ade

to O btain t h e privi lege i e the power of sell in g , . .

l
m edi ci n es a n d of co m po un di n g the m accordi n g
,

to physician s prescriptio n s As an additio n al e n .

c our age m e n t he ass ur ed m e that n ot o n ly the

, ,

l
physici an bu t also the apothe cary at Sem e on ov

l
, ,

sk o was recko n ed i n the civi ser vi ce of the

y ,

crown an d obtai n ed all t he con sequ en t advan tage s

,

i n poin t of r an k which I discovered to be a Vi ol , .

ation of tr uth H e then Offered m e t he ann ua sa ary

.

x e d b t he cr own which I re fu sed an d h e au

y ,g ,

l
m e n t e d it At this ti m e I was n ot acqu ai n ted
.

with the character of Gen eral Nast c hok i n n or ,

were an y of m y Petersb u rgh fri e n ds At le ngth .

all t he term s were den itively settled an d a p er ,

l
e t ua c on t r ac t as it is called which m ight be c an
p , ,

celled w ith three m on ths n otice by either party ,

was drawn u p an d sign ed by the Gen eral an d

m ysel f .A petition was n ext writte n an d sign ed
by m e wh i ch his E xce l e n cy said w as abso
,

I n R u ss i
p ublic ap othe c ary
a no

s hoe
s is llow e d
a to be
op e e d w i th ou t a s p e c ial p ri il e g e
n v .
l
l
20

ute y ecessary
n to
GE NE R A L

be do ne p
N A S T CH O K I N

u rporti n g to beg t h e
,

m i n ister of the i n terior to gra n t m e the vacan t

situ ation i n the c ivil servi ce at Sem e on ov sk oy ; a
.

petiti on which I afterw ards le arn ed was n ev er i n

, ,

te n ded to be p rese n ted but w as drawn up i n

,

order the better to dece i ve m e .

The r eader who I S fam iliar wit h the n ew co m edy

of I m positi o n an d L au ghter an d who k n ows that the
,

l
Ge n eral i s the chief of the dr am ati s p er sonae will ,

n ot be asto n i shed at the above co n d u ct of a n oble

m an covered w i th crosses riban ds an d ho n o u rs

, , .

l
Gen eral Nat sc h ok i n is descen ded fro m a r e
s e c t ab e fa m i ly an d recei ve d what is called i n

p ,

R u ss i a a ge n teel ed u cation by w hic h m ay be v ery

, ,

frequ e n tly u n derstood a co m bi n ation O f Fre n ch

e vi t an d m an n ers wit h n ati o n al c u n n i n g an d de
y

c eit , an d the fac ulty of speak i n g two three or , ,

m ore fore ign lan g u ages especially Fre n ch

, He .

was brought up i n great awe of his father who i s ,

l
s aid to have bee n a good ki n d of m an an d to have ,

possessed excelle n t m oral an d religio u s pri n ciples

an associati o n by n o m ea n s frequ e n t i n the n orth

e r n e m p i re He m arried early i n li fe an d by his

.
,

a dy he had a n um ber of childre n At his father s .

death he beca m e pr oprietor of so m e excelle n t e s

tates an d above 4000 peasan ts a han dsom e tho ugh
, ,

n ot a colossal fortun e i n R u ssia By prop er

, .

con d u ct he m ight hav e bee n on e of the m ost

i n depen de n t an d happy n obles i n his co un try ,

an d hav e re n dered Se m e onovsk oy an earthly

 G E NE R A L N A S T CH O K I N . 21

paradi se ; but by the syste m of li fe whi ch he has

p u rs u ed he has bee n i n volved i n a rapid succes
,

s io n an d au g m e n tatio n of d i f c ulties ; the offspri n g

l
of perverted pri n ciples bad habits an d an ill
, ,

reg ulated m i n d His eagern ess for worldly rank

.

a n d pop u lar appla u se exceeds i m ag i n atio n an d i s ,

carri e d eve n to chil di sh n ess ; hi s c r ed ulity an d

s uperstition k n o w n o bou n ds ; h is ow c u nn i ng ,

an d his pro fo u n d dissi m u latio n an d craft s u rpa ss

the powers of descriptio n an d h i s ope n bre aches ,

of t h e laws of ho n o u r vi rtu e an d religion ar e

, ,

q u ite n otori o u s H e is pass i o n ately fo n d of so

.

c i et i n deed h i s li fe see m s to ce n tre n ot i n

y ; , ,

hi m self bu t i n his c om m un i catio n s wi th others

, .

Cards balls co n certs theatres m asqu erades pro

, , , , ,

l
m e n ades d in n er p art i es s upper-parties ridi n g
,
-
, ,

parties an d j
, ou r n i e s fro m on e place to an other ,

l
occ upy the m ost of his ti m e an d the r e m ai n de r ,

i s devoted to givi n g a fe w direct i on s abo u t the

m an age m e n t of his estates but especial y i n wr it ,

i n g evasive a n swers to h i s m a n y cred itors an d ,

i n str uctio n s to his age n ts abo ut his n u m ero u s aw

processes Havi n g spe n t a fe w years of his life
. ,

l

d ur i n g Pau l s reign at co u rt he has acqu ired
, ,

m ost extravagan t ideas an d wo uld wish to be a ,

sovereign i n all his actio n s n otwithstan di n g hi s ,

i n con si sten cies the i n adeq uacy of hi s m ean s an d

, ,

an overwhe m in g load of debt H i s r ecreation s .

,

a m u se m e n ts a n d extravagan ce h ave be e n the r u i n

,
.

C 3
22 GE NE R A L N A S T CH O K I N .

Of h i s for t un e, an d m ost
probably the destr u ction
of his m oral an d reli i o u s character
g .

L ike a great n u m ber of the R u ss i an n obility ,

when r esiden t u po n the i r estates he gives a weekly ,

di nn er to h i s frie n ds or n eighbo u rs w hich is ,

follo w ed by every ki n d of e njoym e n t as we sh all ,

s e e i m m ediately No on e ever showed m ore au x

.

i e ty to asse m ble large parties e i ther on S u n day s

,

or festi vals H e se n ds the m ost pressi n g i n vita

.

t i on s to all ran ks of the n obility w i thi n twe n ty or

l
th ir ty m i le s of Se m e on ov sk oy beggi n g the m t o
,

h o n ou r hi m w i th the i r com pan y an d fro m S erp u

c h of, which i s o n ly twelve m ile s di stan t fro m that

vi llage he i s gen erally attered by the appear

,

an ce of a party of those h un gry ge n t e m e n who

ar e attached to the trib un als of the d i strict The .

l
S un day com m en ces wi th dressin g dri n ki n g tea ,

an d co ffee ,an d con versat i o n wi th som e of the

l
i n m ates of the ho u se T h e gu ests begi n to assem
.

ble an d as m an y as have arri ved by eleve n o clock
, !
,

gen era ly accom pan y his E xcelle n cy to ch u rch ,

w h i ch i s o n ly abo u t fo rty yards distan t fro m th e

h ou se Yet i n the n est weather a la r ge i n e i k a (a
.
, .

k in d of lon g hal f-ope n dou ble seated carriage i n

-
,

which a dozen or m ore person s c an sit ) with fo u r ,

l
h orses an d a co uple of lackeys besides carri age s ,

an d d r oshk i s are always i n atte n dan ce an d are

, ,

gen erally u sed to con vey an d brin g back those who

avail them selves of the Opportun ity from the place
of worsh i p . The ch u rch s ervi ce c on tinues til
a l G E NE R A L

bou t twe v e O clock an d d uri ng i ts perform an ce
the gen eral affects the greatest atten ti on an d de
v oti on .
,

H avi n g got i n to the carriages the par ty

N A S T CH O K I N .

,
23

r oll alo n g t o the ho u se i n wh i c h i n the m ean t i m e

, , ,

a n u m ber m ore v i s i tors h ave asse m bled The .

d ej e un er co n sisti n g of bread b u tter salt herr i n gs

, , , ,

pickled sh radishes cavi ar &c &c with a glass

, , , . .

of sweet v odt k i occ up i es t he n ext hal f ho u r

, The .

party n ow get i n to grou ps for con versatio n for ,

walki n g for cards an d other a m u se m e n ts Di n

, , .

n e r i s served u at three o clock a n d ge n erally
p ,

con sists of a n um ber O f excelle n t di shes prepared ,

i n the Fre n c h style be s ides so m e n atio n al dishes

,
.

A fe w glasses of win e an d o fte n of excellen t wi n e ,

of d i ffere n t k i n ds are o ffered to each g u est

, The .

party n ow retire fro m table an d coffee is h an ded ,

ro u n d Agai n t he co m pan y are i n a great degree

.

le ft to t heir ow n will So m e i m m e di ately r e c Om .

m e n ce cards so m e go to walk an d others to

, ,

ride an d th e re m ai n der to take a si esta : an d i n

,

s u m m er it is n ot rare for the whole par ty to wi th

,

draw to the arm s of Morp h e u s Between six an d .

sev en o clock a ge n eral m u ster agai n takes place
, ,

a n d tea i s dr u n k eith er i n t h e ho u se or whe n the , ,

weather per m its i n the garden Those w ho r e

,
.

m ai n n ow adj o ur n to the theatre or to the ball

,

roo m an d th ere beside s havi n g their m i n d s or

, ,

bodies occu p i ed are s upplied w ith lem on ade gr og

, , ,

an d n eg us About eleven or twelve O clock the
. ,

day con cl udes wi th a good s upper an d at an early ,

c 4
24 M I NE R A L W A TE R S or S E M E O N O V SK O YE.

ho ur the g u ests e ither retu rn ho m e or reti re t o

,

their apartm e n ts for repose At their dep artu re

. ,

all are h earti ly than ked for their co m pan y an d r e ,

c e i ve the ferve n t be n edict i o n of their host .

S u ch i s a pretty gen eral pic t u re of the m an n e r

i n wh i ch the hallowed day is spe n t by the n oble s
of the R u ss i an e m p i re Those who are ric h be
.

com e hosts an d those who are poor form g u ests

, .

Few of the m get in tox i cated with wi n e or spirits ,

but all with a m u se m e n t an d folly They th us '

thoughtlessly an d extravagan tly e x pe n d their m o

ne
y a n d get i n to debt B u t Still.they go on fro m
year t o year as lon g as they c an force the w heel s

of fortu n e t o revolve an d ge n erally whe n t hey die

, ,

th ei r affai rs are i n a state of great co nfu s i o n an d ,

the i r estates e n tailed .

SO stro n g i s the passio n for e n terta i n i n g co m pan y

am o n g the R u ss i a n n obles that were i t possible t o
,

n d t h e m ea n s of s u pp orti n g i t an d to obtai n a
'

su ccessio n of g u ests every day wo uld be passed as

,

they Spe n d S un day an d in deed so m e of the richer

i n di vi d u als keep ope n table thro u gho u t the yea r .

Ab out th e year 1 8 1 0 the m i n eral waters Of Se m e o

,

n ovskoy e were discovered an d so m e n oise havi n

, g
bee n m ade respecti n g the m Professor R e ii ss of
'

l
, ,

the un iversity of Mosco w was e m ployed to an a ,

.

lyze them i n 1 8 1 2 or 1 8 1 3 Ge n eral Nast c hok i n

.

afterwards e n gaged the professor to pass the vaca .

ti o n m on ths wi th hi m an d to act as physician

, ,

wh i ch he did duri n g t w o s um m ers The an a ysis .

 M I NE R A L WA TE R S or S E M E O N O V S K O YE

l
.

of the waters was p ublished as well as a m i n ute ,

a cco un t of the diseases i n which they wo uld be

co m e serviceable Ad vert i se m e n ts appeared c on

.

t i n ua y i n the papers i n their c elebratio n an d , ,

i n a wor d e v ery e ffort was m ade to brin g the m

,

i n to n otice To a certai n exte n t the plan was

.

s uc ce ss fu l A n um ber of i n valids resorted to Se

.

m e on ovsk oy a nd the ge n eral w a s elated wi t h "

his s u c cess as by this m ean s he was to sec u re a

,

s u ccessio n of co m pan y a n d at the sam e ti m e to

,

m ake t hat co m pa n y a so u rce of reve n u e A per .

m an e n t physicia n was n ow e n gaged an d a n u m ber ,

of ho us es were erected for the acc o m m odatio n of

the sick the i n valid or those who cam e for m ere

, ,

pleas u r e E very season the phys i c i an was chan ged

.

i n co n sequ e n ce O f q u arrels which had take n

place I n the m ean tim e the n u m ber of those who
.
,

frequ e n te d the spri n gs an n u ally di m i n ished an d ,

u n fortu n ately for th e ge n eral he attrib u ted this ,

to the wan t of proper accom m odation s A n e .

wood was i m m e di ately c u t down an d n o less than ,

fteen hou ses e ach capable of co n tai n i n g a n oble

,

m an s fam ily s u dde n ly arose an d form ed a n e w
,

street bes i des a theatre an hosp ital an ap oth e

, , ,

ll

cary s shop an d an i n n ,
R est a ur a t i on a ua ar nzes
,
'

d a S e ign e ur wh ile a n u m ber of the peasan ts
cottages u n derwen t a thoro ugh repair an d were ,

adapted for the acco m m odatio n O f the poorer

c a sses E qu ip age s of all ki n ds were bought an d
. ,

t hey as well as sa dd e horses were to be h i re d by

,
-
,
26 M I NE R A L WA T E R S OP S E M E O N O V SK O Y E

l l
.

the day or by the m o n th Assem bly room s wer e .

-

arran ged which s erved for the en tertain m e n t of

,

i n vited parti es A perso n beari n g the n am e of

.
,

p o i-c e m a st e r was,
also p a ce d i n the V i llage who , ,

am on g his other d u ties h ad parti c ular charge of ,

th e r e eng i ne Se m e on ov sk oy ass um ed the ap

- .

e ar an c e of a colo n y an d w a s m u ch be aut ie d by
p ,

a n e bo ulevard an d a Ch in ese t e m ple Two r e .

g ular streets term i n ate i n corr espon din g barr i ers

or z astcivas w ith a co uple of col um n s si m ilar t o
, ,

l
wh at we see i n all the p r i n c ipal town s of R u ssia .

B ut these preparation s were m ade i n vai n ; for

those i n search of health go n ot t o n d that lost
,

treas u re at Se m e on ov sk oy T he fact is the ge n e .

,

r a r u i n ed h i s ow n sche m e by h i s slan dero u s to n g u e ,

l
h i s capric i ou s con d u ct an d h i s m ean actio n s , .

Those en tertain ed w i th s um ptu ou s din n ers balls , ,

co n cer ts an d suppers had n o soon er gon e i n to

, ,

l
an other roo m than his E xcellen cy took delight i n
,

trad u c in g on e i n di vidu al after an other t i l the whole

soc i ety h ad recei ved th e i r m eed of ab u se Th e .

v i s i tors soon fo u n d they had all bee n the sport of

the ge n eral s Sharp ton g u e ( ang ue t r an chan t e ) , ,

as on e of the m well called it Fr ien ds an d r ela .

l
tion s shared the sam e fate All the slan der of th e .

distr ict (an d w h o k n ows how m u ch of it or igin ated

w i thi n his ow n brai n ) w as repeated t o every gu est
,

who cam e in h i s way .

The two sprin gs - perh aps som e what profan e y

,

n o m i n ated the Waters of our Savi our because ,

 M I NE R A L WA TE R S OF S E M E O N O V S K O YE . 27

the copy of the i m age of ou r Savio ur n ot m ade ,

l
w i th han ds to whic h the ch urch i n Se m e on ov sk oy
,

is dedicated was tran sported thither an d with

, ,

m u c h cere m o n y placed i n the rot un da which i s

erected over the m are of a sali n e an d ferr ugi n ou s

,

n at u re whi e an other spri n g called The Spri n g ,

of Yaz i k of is re m arkable for its p u ri ty i f Pr ofe s
, ,

sor R e ii ss s state m e n ts c an b e fully relied on I .

shall here qu ote the tab ular form of his an alys i s of

all the three sprin gs .

f
A P oun d, o S i x teen Oun ces,
of t he W a t er s
f
o Our Sa vi our

c on t a in e d

Sp r i n g,
NO 1 . . NO 2 . .

C arbo n at e of iro n,

l
l
C arbo n at e of m an gan e z e ,
C arbo n at e of lim e,

r
S ub-c a bon at e of M ag i
n e s a,

Al mi
u n a,

Sili c a,

l
A l k li a m uri
ne at e , (m u riat e a ca m)
E x t ra t i c ve ,

l
f
A P oun d, o S i x teen O unc es , f
W a ter o Yaz ih
of
C arbonat e of lim e ,

S ulphat e of lim e ,

Muriat e of im e ,

A lum i a n ,

Sili ac ,

O xi d of iroe n,

R i o g m m y x tra ti
es n - u e c ve ,

G um m y tr c ti e ex a v ,
28 C UR I O S I T Y OF TH E R US SI ANS .

Speak i n g of the water of Yaz i k of; Profess or

!

Reuss says When we co m pare th i s water with

,

the p u rest spri n gs which we k n ow we n d that i t ,

s u rpasses the m m u ch i n p u ri ty .

Never was there a better exam ple of the i n or di n

ate c u riosity which is pretty ge n erally prevale n t
am on g the R u ssian n obles than at Se m e on ovsk oy .

The m ost i n sign ican t occ u rre n ce co uld n ot take

place the m ost tri i n g observation co uld s carcely

,

be m ade w i tho u t its be in g co m m un icated t o the

,

ge n eral Nor co uld the oste n tati o n be m ade bet

.

ter k n own which i s characteri stic of these se ig

,

n e ur s To s u ch a degree does its lord carr y

.

this feel in g that at the approach of a Vi sitor his

, ,

ban d of m u s i cian s are ordered i m m ediately to tak e

l
their station i n the Chi n ese tower an d as they , ,

pass to aston ish the m by a s u dde n b u rst of i n st r u

,

m e n tal m u sic O n e O f th e servan ts who had been

.

appoi n ted to keep watch i n the tower bu t failed ,

i n his d u ty an d a l owed a pri n ce to arr i ve witho u t

,

havi n g s u rpri sed hi m i n this m an n er was severely ,

p u n ished .

The estate of the Gur i ef fam ily on the left pre

sen ted on e of those pleasi n g sights which are so
frequ en t i n R u ssia ; the elegan t parish ch urch ,

the m an si on of the n oble an d the cou n try vi llage , ,

risi n g together a m i dst l u x urian t trees verdan t ,

elds low i n g herds an d groups of acti ve peasan ts

, , .

4
Char ac t e r
of t he R us s i an s , p . cv .
 S ER P U C H O F . 29

A r i de of t en versts thro ugh woo ds alter n atin g

w i th ope n u n dulatin g co un try an d presen ti n g ,

l
beautifu l an d diversied Views bro ught u s to ,

S r p u c h of .

S r p u c hof is the chief t own of a d i stri ct of th e

sam e n am e i n the gov ern m e n t O f M osc ow an d is
, ,
,

on ly 93 versts dista n t fro m the a n cie n t capita .

Its sit u atio n is elevated an d ro m an ti c an d c om ,

m an ds exte n sive Views of a very n e co u n try ,

thro u gh which the O k a ows towards the V olga .

It lies chiey u po n the side of a hill or rather as , ,

it appears of a n u m ber of hills with deep ravi n es

,

betwee n the m which gi ve it a sin g ula r appearan ce

, .

The Nara a s m all ri ver passes thro ugh the town

, , ,

an d fo u r versts fro m it falls i n to t h e O k a

, The .

n u m ero u s Spires an d ch u rch es which we had r e

m arked at a distan ce when approachi n g Sr p u c h of ,

led u s t o expect a m u ch m ore pop ulou s an d m ore

b eau tiful town than we fo un d it i n real i ty Still .

l
i t is on e of the han dso m est s m all town s i n the R u s
sian e m pire ; an d accordin g to Dr Clarke
, it .
,

perfectly rese m bles Newm arket i n situ atio n ap ,

e ar an c e an d s u rro u n di n g sce n ery The g u re
p ,
.

of the tow n is O blo n g an d by n o m ean s reg u a r ;

,

an d i t is divided i n to three q u arters by the N i n a

an d the ri v u let S e r p e i k a It is said i n the Geo

.

graphical Diction ary O f R u ssia that it co n tai n s ,

fty-eight streets an d cross streets ; but al t ho ugh

Tra el p
v s, . 1 74 .
30 S ER P U C H O F .

I resided so m e m o n ths there I could n ever d isco ,

ver above a doze n worthy of that n a m e So m e of .

the m however are reg ular an d m ost of the ho use s

, , ,

are of wood others of sto n e, The ch u rches . ,

l
eightee n i n n u m ber an d a co uple of m o n asteries
, ,

both from their ro m an tic situ atio n s their gau dy ,

colo u rs an d gilded dom es add a Con siderable life

, ,

a n d bea u ty t o this tow n The stran ger s atte n tio n .

is arrested by the p bstchad or m arket place an ,

-
,

l
i m m e n se oblo n g sq uare large e n o ugh for a capital ,

of the rst m ag n i t u de It i s s u rro un ded by shops

.
,

i n which all ki n ds of goods are to b e fo un d On .

m arket days it is lled with crowds of people ,

horses an d cattle an d t e eg a s or carts loaded w i th
,

provision s espec i ally corn an d ti m ber an d r e

, ,

wood Tho ugh so n ear Moscow the latter art i cle

.
,

does n ot cost m u ch above on e third of the pri ce -

which i t do es i n that capital The large edi ce .

,

l
like a n oble palace whic h co n tai n s all the tr i b unal s
,

an d all the p u blic oi c e s of the crow n for the dis

l
t r i c t well deserves a Vi s i t fr o m the c u rio u s travelle r
, ,

who is an x i o u s to get an i dea of the m ode i n which

c ivi ad m in i strati o n i s carri ed on i n t he co un try
town s Of R u ssia .

Th e an c i e n t fortress s i tu ated upo n an i n s u a ted

,

hill an d s u rro un ded by high san d ston e walls

,
-
,

thou gh fallin g i n to r u i n s has a s o m ewhat ve n erable ,

aspect an d adds vari ety t o the Vie w It was b u i lt

, .

i n the year 1 5 5 6 as on e of the defe n ces agai n st the

,

attacks of the Tartars : an d so lately as 1 5 98 it

 sER P U CH O E . 31

w as forti ed stro n gly whe n all the forces of R u ssia

,

were asse m ble d i n S erp u c hof, u n der Boris G odun of ,

to oppose the m arau ders of the K r i m e a .

Sr p u c hof is a b u sy an d i n d u striou s town an d i t ,

wi ll s erve to m ake k n own t he ki n d of m an u factu res

wh i ch s u cceed i n the Vi ci n ity of Mosco w to state , ,

that it con tai n s seven sail cloth m an u factories -

e i ght tan n er i es n i n e breweries ; t w o cloth m an u

l
factor i es ; two calic o an d cal i co pri n ti n g fabrics ;
a n d on e tallo w m an u factory The m erchan ts of Ser
.

u c h of carry on a n exte n sive co m m erce i n cor n

p
wi th the n eighbo u ri n g d i stri cts an d w ith th e go ,

v e r n m e n t of O r by m ean s of the O k a they

tran sport it to M oscow i n win ter by sledge roads -
,

whe n carri age i s cheap They are also great

.

dealers i n horn ed cattle W h i ch they buy i n th e Uk

-
,

r ai n e an d drive t o Mosco w an d Petersb u rgh ; as

,

w ell as i n sh ho n ey wax tallow leather hem p

, , , , , ,

coarse l in e n an d ti m ber
, .

The pop u lati o n of Sr p u c h of is said to a m o u n t

to betwee n 5 000 an d 6000 an d is always greatly
aug m e n ted by a n um ber of troops I n su m m er a .

woode n bri dge m ai n tain s the co m m u n ication across

the Nara It i s for m ed of wood s upported on
. ,

di am on d s hap e d b u ttresses
' I n spri n g be fore the
. ,

ice breaks u p cart loads of ston es are laid u pon it

,
-
,

to preve n t its bei n g carried aw ay by the ood of

the r i ver by which it is co m pletely i n un dated A
,
.

raft i s the n established an d it is m ost am u si n g to

,

see m e n wo m e n an d horses wadi n g up to the

, ,
 l
32 C U R I OU S C US T O M S .

k n e e s in m ud be fore reachi n g an d a fter qui t tin g

,

it I n Britai n we have little ide a of the di fc ulti e s

.
,

a n d the de sa r e m e n s of travel i n g i n R u ssia a ny
'

g m
a da n gero u s ford is pas sed an d m an y a crazy bridge ,

is crossed wi th out a tho ught be i n g bestowed On so

,

co m m o n an occ u rre n ce .

I n walki n g thro ugh the streets O f Sr p u c hof I -

r e m arked im ages - as pict u res of Christ o f the

, ,

V irgi n Mary an d O f the sai n ts of the R u ss o Greek

,
-

r u bric , m a n y of the m i n fra m es over the gates of ,

m ost O f the ho u ses ; a practi ce which as fa r as I ,

l
k n ow is n ot c om m o n i n m an y of the tow ns of
,

R u ssia .

A n other c u ri o us c u sto m prevail s i n this tow n ,

at least am o n g the m erchan ts an d b u rgesses The .

fe m a e s do n ot go to ch u rch on week day s n or -

,

ll
eve n on S u n days except they be great festivals , ,

till after m arriage I was led to e n qu i re as to the

.

ca u se of this of a m erchan t whose two daug hters ,

always re m ai n ed at ho m e while his wife an d his ,

daughter -i n aw were al m ost dai ly atten dan ts on

-

div i n e service A the an swer I e v er rece i ved

l
.

was tr uly R u ss i an I k n ow n ot it is the c usto m

it i s n ot co n sidered good to act otherwise .

l
Havi n g breakfasted at Sr p uc hof; on the m or n .

i n g O f the 1 t h at a good R u ss i an i nn we pro

, ,

c e e d e d on ou r j o u r n ey Soo n after passi n g the .

z as t ava or barrier we re m arked a ston e col u m n

, , ,

the fel o w O f which we a fterwards saw on the sou th

s i de of the O k a This ri ver form s the bo un dary
.
 TH E RI VE R OK A . 83

betw een the govern m e n ts of M osco w and Tula ,

a n d is on e of the largest river s of E u ropea n R u ssia .

I n spri n g it is an i m m e n se river an d approaches ,

n e arly to th e bar rier of the to w n bu t i n s um m er it ,

i s m u c h s m aller tho ugh it n ever l oses its m aj estic

,

appearan ce Its ban ks prese n t n e v iews an d on

.
,

i t s so u th side is on e of the best cloth m an u factories ,

i n R u ssia This fabric belon gs to Mr Baradi i
. .

litch who m akes n o di fcu lty abo u t showi n g it

, .

l
The O k a is of co u rse crossed upon the ice i n
, ,

wi n ter i n spri n g for so m e days after the breakin g ,

u
p o f the ice all co m m un ication is stopped for
,
,

carriages bu t for tran sporti n g the m ail a oati n g

, ,

road of barrels an d deal p an ks i s form ed an d per ,

s o n s on foot carry the ba s

g A S soo n as the .

i m m e n se m asses of ice have ceased to ow rafts ,

l
ar e e m ployed an d con ti n u ed till abo u t the m iddle
of the m o n th of May whe n the O k a havi n g regai n ed ,

its proper chan n el a n exc elle n t oat i ng bridge is ,

-

arran ged Havi n g crossed this ri ver by a

.

ou r h o rses fo un d so m u c h di i c u t i n draggi n g the

y
carriages thro u gh heavy san d that we were glad to
walk I Ve n ow followed the ban ks of the O k a for
.

s o m e versts ad m i ri n g the ext e n si v e rich m eadows

,

which ar e irrigate d by i n u n dation i n the spri n g ,

a n d which yield extraordi n ary crops of hay witho u t

toil to the h u sban d m an We the n t u rn ed to the

so u th passed the village L ip e tsk i an d con tin u ed

, ,

Clark e h as gi v e n an e x c e ll en t r pre
e i
se n t at on of t h e p assag e
of th e O k a .

V OL . I .
34 Z AVO D I , V O S H AN , A ND V O L OT YA .

our r oute to Zei v odi t he n ext post statio n thro ugh
, ,

a pleasa n t an d u n dulati n g co u n try tho ugh i n a ,

gr eat m eas u re d esti t u te of woo d an d presen ti n g a ,

White clayey soi l At 1 3 versts fro m Z avod i we

.

in et with an accide n t n ot u n co m m o n i n travelli n g ,

i n R ii ssi a a horse i n on e of the carriages dropped

.

l
down an d expired We were the n told that the .

m stc hi k had o n ly arrived two ho u rs be fore u s at

y a

S r p u c hof fro m Z avodi with a heavy carriage a n d

, , ,

that as there were n o other h orses at that statio n

, ,

the sm otr i te had ordered hi m to retu r n wi th u s .

The d ay was very s u ltry an d altho u gh the horse s ,

were evide n tly fatigu ed we did n ot apprehen d ,

su ch a cat astrophe A fter bargai n in g with a n um

.

ber of i n divid u als who dem an ded a m ost e x or bi

,

l
tan t pri ce we at le n gth s u cceeded i n O btai n i n g fou r
,

h orses fro m a n eighbo u ri n g Village for a t e n ro u ble -

n ote wh i ch was co n sidered a m oderate s u m u n der

,

su ch circ u m stan ces Z avodi i s a village of co u si

.

d e r ab e size w ith straw covered ho u ses sit u ated i n

,
-
,

l
a h ollow an d orn am e n ted by a n e w an d elegan t
,

l ll
post hou se
- The road havi n g becom e excellen t
.

s i n ce we crossed the O k a opposed n o obstacles to ,

our progres s ; an d the d r i ve to V osh an was rapid

an d del ight fu as well as that fro m V oshan t o V 0

,

l
Otya. E ach of these v i l ages is provided i ke w ise
w ith n e post-ho u ses The co un try thro ugh which
.

we passed appeared ferti le i s scattered with ,

villages bu t is too bare of wood

, We arrived at .

V o tya i n the eve n i n g yet it w as our i n te n ti o n o n ly

,
 l

PO S T -M A STE R S TRI CK . 35

to cha n ge horses there an d to di n e at Tula tho ugh

, ,

late at n ight Bu t the sm ot r i t e by on e of the

.
,

tricks co m m on to his brethre n deprived u s of p os t ,

horses ; an d as he had apart m e n ts was m ost

,

des i ro u s that we sho uld pass the n ight u n der his

ro of Neither pers u asio n n or m e n aces had an y
.

l
e ffect u po n hi m tho u gh I was quite certai n that
,

h e h ad p ost horses i n the co urt At le n gth on

- .
,

proposi n g ter m s to hi m he asked 1 5 ro ubles an d , ,

said he wo u ld e n gage peasan ts horses for u s i m m e
d i at e y I appare n tly co n se n ted an d i n the m ean
.
,

ti m e desired hi m to registe r ou r p oder a e i n his
book the n u m be r of horses we took an d the post
, ,

hire for the m which a m o u n ted to six ro ubles He

,
.

did so ; a n d of co urse proved that we were to

, ,

receive post horses -I pai d down the Si x roubles

.
,

an d added I will arran ge for the n i n e ro u bles at

,

Tula Havi n g reached that town I wrote hi m a

.

n ote i n R ii ss i n stead of se n di n g hi m the m o n e y ;

re m i n ded hi m of his rog u ery threate n ed to c om

plain agai n st hi m to th e gov ern or ; an d i n for m ed
hi m that i f he had any j u st clai m u po n the party
, ,

he wo u ld n d the m i n the St Petersb u rgh i n n at .

Tula an d wou ld m eet with j u stice ; bu t we heard

,

n o m ore O f hi m .

l
D u ri n g the last statio n after havi n g m ade abou t,

hal f the distan ce we for the rst ti m e em ployed

, , ,

the drag ch ai n i n desce n din g a steep h i ll Dark

- .

n ess cam e upo n u s bu t at 1 1 o clock i n the eve n i n g
we got co m fo rt ab y hou sed i n the above n am ed i n n - .

D 2
36 TOE A .

We passed t w o days at Tula an d v e ry activ ely , .

Next t o the capitals it is on e of the m ost i n teresti n g

,

cities i n the dom i n ion s of R u ssia an d there fore ,

deserves a partic ular descriptio n It is the chie f .

town of the govern m e n t to which it gives a n am e ,

an d lies u po n both side s of the Upa at the distan ce ,

of 90 0 versts fro m Petersb u rgh an d 1 8 5 versts fro m

Mosco w It is s upposed to be a very an cie n t

.

town an d to h ave bee n b u ilt by the rst i n habit

,

l
l
an ts of the n eighbo u ri n g region s the S ar m atian s ,

an d the T c h ood s ; bu t t h e date of its fo u n datio n

can n ot be xed with precis i o n O n e of the earliest .

n otices of it is i n St r i t t e r s R u ssian History wher e ,

he speak s of Sv i at os af O gov i t c h havi n g passed

thro u gh i t i n the year 1 1 47 A n cie n t Tula how
, .
,
.

ever did n ot occ u py exactly the sa m e situ ati on as

,

the prese n t town but was s i t u ated on the right

,

ban k of the Upa at the e m bo u ch ure of th e T ul i tsa

, ,

bu t of it n o traces are n ow to be see n . Modern .

l
l
Tula was fo un ded i n the year 1 5 09 an d s u rro un ded ,

by a ditch an d ram part The great i m portan ce of

.

this town sit uated on th e road by which the Tar

,

tars an d the Poles m ade irr uptio n s i n to R u s s ia ,

i n d u ced the Great D u ke V assi i i oan n ovi t c h to

b u il d a cit adel i n the ce n tre of th e fortress which ,

was co m m e n ced i n 1 5 1 4 an d n ished i n se v e n

,

years . This citadel still exists and form s an ,

oblon g squ are of great Si ze with towers at its ,

an gles an d gates i n the ce n tres of its walls Withi n

, .

the m we re m arked the cathedral of the Ass u m ptio n ,

a woode n exercise ho u se an d so m e salt m agaz i n es

-
, .
 T UL A . 87

Tula has Ofte n b ee n th e theatre of war w hen

R ussia was i n vaded by her e n e m ies a n d her i n habi ,

tan ts ge n erally behaved with determ i n atio n an d c ou

rage an d s u ccessfully resisted the m N ot w i th st an d
, .

i n g thi s i n the year 1 605 they receive d the traitor

, , ,

the false Dm i tr i i wi th accla m atio n s an d fo ught i n

, ,

his ca u se ; a n d i n 1 607 they s hared i n the revolt of

, ,

l
a n other i m postor who called hi m sel f
, the T sar e

v i t c h Pri n ce Peter s on of the Tsar Ph dor Iv a

, ,
no

V itc h ; they gave hi m shelter i n the town an d ,

n ot o n ly de fe n ded hi m bu t m ade di f fere n t s u ccess

,

fu sallies . I n 1 61 3 whe n Polan d was i n vaded by

,

the Poles Tula was ru i n ed an d its e n v iron s bu rn ed

,
.

U n der the wise govern m e n t of the Tsar M i chail

Ph d or ovitc h it recovered its form er prosperity ;
,

an d , n ot withstan di n g so m e great res especially ,

i n 1 7 7 9 an d 1 7 8 1 u p to the prese n t date it has c on

,

t i n u e d to be on e of the m ost pop u lo u s an d ou r i sh

i n g tow n s i n the R u ssia n e m pire .

The sit u atio n of the prese n t Tula is partly low

an d partly so m ewhat ele v ate d It occ upies both .

s ides of the Upa an d is for m ed of three great di v i

,

l
s io n s . The rst on the left ban k of that r i v e r an d
, , .

aro un d the citadel is called the P osddshay a S t d

l
,

r ona ; the seco n d o n its r i ght

,
ba n k is n a m ed ,

Z e t

s k S t r ona

an d the third on the sa m e
a r a
y a o ; ,

ban k opposite the fortress is n o m i n ated Tchzi hova

, ,

S obod a all O f which co m pose fo u r police qu ar -

te rs on e of which is called the Or uj

ei nay a S t r on a ,
,

o n acco u n t of its vici n ity to the ar m fabric Two - .

38 T UL A .

s ub urbs i n hab i ted by the post boors like w i se l i e

,
-
,

close to the town The co m m un i cation s betw een

.

all the divi sio n s of Tula are m ai n tai n ed across th e

,

Upa by a n u m ber of wooden an d sto n e bridges ,

n o n e O f which have an gra n de u r The n u m ber of

y .

h ou ses i n Tula m ay be reckon ed at 5 000 an d that ,

of the i n habitan ts a t or excl u sively

of the troops which are al w ays stat i o n ed i n the

l
tow n I n it there is a m o n astery an d a n u n n ery
.
,

besides 2 6 ch u rches all b u ilt of ston e The edi ces

, .

l

wh i ch chiey attract th e stran ger s atten tion are the ,

A r m Man ufact ory the Gym n asi u m of the gover n

-

m e n t ofT I i a ; Alexan der s School which was ope n ,

ed i n 1 8 02 for th e ed u catio n of you th at the expen se

,

of the n ob i i ty the F ou n dl i n g Hosp i tal which is a ,

bran ch of that at Moscow ; the H o u se of Corre o

tion the Ostr og or Pr ison th e Arsen al the Ba
,

zars or Shops am o un ti n g to 7 000 or 8 00 0 which

, , ,

l
deserve exam i n ation espec i ally the hardware an d
,

l
c u tlery shops Som e vi s i tors will also n d a m u se m e n t
.

l
i n exa m i n i n g the silk an d hat fabrics an d the ta n n e ,

r i es I n Tula it is sai d there are 1 0 6 streets a fe w

.
, , ,

o n ly of which m ay be ca e d han dsom e There is .

a c on t i n u a m ixt u r e of wood an d sto n e h o u ses i n

this town bu t the Ki evskaya an d the Bolshoi M i

, ,

l
lion e streets are li n ed on both sides with sto n e
ho u ses m an y of w hich ar e m assy an d i n good
,

taste .

The A r m F a br i c has lon g bee n the Obj ect which

-

has m e t with the greatest atte n tio n of trave l er s at

 l ARM- FAB R I C

Tu a an d we proc ured e asy acces s to exam i n e i t i n

,

detail A short sketch of i ts origi n an d progress

.
AT T UL A . 39

l
m ay precede m re m arks as to its p r ese n t state
y .

Abo u t the e n d of the 1 6th ce n t ury the ri ch iron

m i n es i n the n eighbo u rh ood of Tula see m to have

led to the asse m bly of abou t 30 s m iths i n on e O f ,

its s u b u rb s called K uz ntshay a S boda or S m ith s ,

S u b urb who e nj oyed certai n i m m un ities an d

,

advan tages an d who were occ upied i n m aki n g

,

r e ar m s an d s m all ar m s
- Thei r n u m bers were .
'

s u ccessi vely a ugm e n ted i n the years 1 68 6 1 687 , ,

a n d 1 7 07 bu t thou gh the establish m e n t was pro

l
t e c t e d an d e n co u raged by the Tsar Ph dor Alexie

v i t c h yet it m a be j u stly said t o have bee n fo un ded

, y
by Peter the Great I n the years 1 7 1 2 1 7 1 3 an d
.
, ,

1 7 2 3 m an y im prove m e n ts were m ade by i m pe

,

rial order an d i n the year 1 7 2 8 i t was tota ly

, , ,

ren ewed I n the years 1 7 3 7 1 7 3 9 an d 1 7 4 2

. ,
, , ,

d iffe r e n t addi ti on s an d chan ges we re m ade

'

The .

whole fabric was r e established an d i m proved i n -

the year 1 7 8 5 by Catheri n e I I s orders ; i t w as
,
.

protected an d e n cou raged by the E m peror Pa u l ;

an d si n ce the co m m e n ce m e n t O f the re i gn of Alex
,

an der till the prese n t m o m e n t has re ceiv ed th e ,

u tm ost atte n tio n .

A n i dea of the grad u al progress of this m an ufac

tory m ay b e form ed from the n u m ber of han ds w h o
have been e m ployed i n it at differen t epoch s As .

already m e n tio n ed they am ou n ted to 3 0 at the e n d

,

O f t he 1 6th c e n t ury ; to 664 i n 1 7 04 t O Q O5 6 i n '

D 4
40 ARM- FAB R I C AT T UL A .

1 7 24 ; to o n ly 1 688 i n 1 7 37 the rest havi n g bee n ,

allowe d to j oi n the m erchan ts to 4443 i n 1 7 62

i n the rei g n of Cath eri n e I I t o 5 1 5 2 ; an d

.
,

at presen t to 7 000 O n ly on e hal f of this n u m

, .

ber are however i n act u al e m pl oy m e n t there bei n g

, , ,

n o gre at de m an d for arm s i n ti m e of peace Th e .

workm en at the ar m fabri c still e nj oy pe c uliar -

i m m un ities an d pr ivileges ; t hey form a pec uliar

body an d have thei r j u dges selected fro m am o n g
,

the m selves Those who are u n e m ployed at the

.

fabric receive passports go to other town s an d , ,

l
s earch a fter e m ploy m e n t of d i e r e n t ki n ds F or .

this liberty they pay an obr h or trib ute to th e , ,

treas ury of the m an u factory The w orkm e n are .

d ivide d i n to ve tr ades bar rel m ak ers lock -

,
.

m akers stock m akers ap p ar ei or fu rn ishi n g

,
-
,

m akers an d m akers O f s m all arm s

, The barrel - .

l
m akers the lock m akers an d the s m all ar m m akers
,
-
,
-
,

con sist each of 2 0 artels an d the stock m akers

* -
,

an d the fu r n ishi n g m akers co n sist each O f 1 0 artels

-
, .

Besides ar m s the work m en also m ake m athe m atical

,

an d h si c a i n str u m e n ts
'

p y .

Till the year 1 7 8 2 a larger or sm aller qu an tity ,

of arm s was an n ually m ade accordi n g to n ecessity ,

so that the w ork m e n were so m eti m es al m ost with

out work an d provi s i o n s an d at other ti m es were

l
,

n ecessitated to la bo u r n ight an d day Subse .

q u e n tly r e arm s an d s m all arm s were m ade

,
- -

I
A ter '
s, i i
s oc e t e s or c om p ie
an s, w ho h
ave a c om m on
.

p ur s e
an d fu n d s , an d ar e g e erally
n m e ss m at e s .

ARM- FA B R I C AT T LI L A . 41

a n n u ally for m en I n the year 1 79 7 were .

,

m ade r e ar m s ; 7 5 5 3 were repaired ; 4 97 6

-

s m all ar m s were m ade an d 8 61 2 repai r ed I n 1 7 98

-
, .
,

were m ade r e arm s ,an d repaired 63 63 ;

-

s m all arm s - an d repai red I n 1 7 99 ,

were m ade r e ar m s an d repai red 4 1 5 9 ;

,
-

s m all arm s - an d repaired 8 8 3 .

At the prese n t m o m e n t the ar m fabri c c an -

easily m ake stan d of arm s an n u ally ; an d ,

i n case of n ecessity eve n bu t of co u rse , , ,

they wo u ld n ot b e of s o good a q u ality .

As I have elsewhere partic ularly described the

i m prove m e n ts i n trod u ced i n to the ar m fabric of -

Tula by our cou n trym an Mr Jo n es of Bi r m i n g , .

h am I c an o n ly shortly all u de to the m

,

That ge n tle m an has r e-organ ized t h e whole depart

m e n t of lock m aki n g an d perfecte d the R u ssia n
-
,

ar t i z an i n the k n owledge of his trade He has also

i n trod u ced i m prove m en ts i n the for m ation of m ost

parts of the lock by dies an d sw e dgin g p i n s a pro -

digi ous savi n g of labo u r i n co m parison of the old ,

m ethod of for m i n g the m by the ha m m er The

i ro n u sed at Tula i s all bro ught fro m Sibe r i an T h e

L

Vid e rg iz tio A dm i i tr t i
A c c oun t d
of t h e O an a n, n s a on , an

Pr e t St at of th Milit ry C l o i
es n e i R i & p 52
e a o n es n u ss a, c . . .

1 D r M
'

m i h l ry
. i orr t l
acy y cTh ae rti l ve nc ec sa s e a c e s,

am o g w hi h t h
n hi f b ir b y t w rd
c e c dm
e ar e ar - on , a on e s , s o s , an us

k t f bri t d fr m
e s , ar e ir a f d i
ca e t h i g hb o an on or e ou n n e ne ou r

h d oo B t th H
. Mr Str g w y p r p ly t t
u e on th t
. . an a s o er s a e s, a

th r w w rk of Tul m pl y x l i ly Sib ri ir
e c o n o s a e o , e c us v e , e an on .

S thi g tl m ry bl d highly i t r ti g p p r
ee s en e an s v e a e an n e es n a e on
42 ARM - FAB R I C AT T UL A .

greatest obstacles the fabric lon g en c oun tered arose

l
fro m i g n oran ce how to m ake an d te m per the best
steel . B u t i n this resp ect it is said that the
greatest i m provem en ts have of late bee n m ade .

Mr Jo n es m ost li kely however w ill n ot i n trodu ce

.
, , ,

a his plan s at o n ce ; an d he wi ll do w ell for hi m

self to receive so m e reward be fore he i s too free i n
hi s co m m un icatio n s Both th e govern m en t an d
.

private n oble m e n are d i sti n g uishe d i n R u ss i a for

their extravagan t an d sed u ci n g pro m ises an d even ,

their liberal an d prodigal deeds so lo n g as they ,

have so m e Obj ect i n view so m e advan tage real or

,
, ,

fan cied to attai n ; bu t the m o m e n t they are i nde

,
.

l
l

pe n den t of a perso n s serv ices they treat hi m wi th ,

n eglect an d i f they p erceive that his feeli n gs are

,

wo u n ded they so m eti m es add scorn an d co n te m pt

,

to i n sole n ce besides they act at ti m es with a ,

degree of m ean n ess an d inj u stice which i tal i es

w ith their prete n ded ran k i n socie ty a n d the i r ,

assu m ed i m portan ce i n the scale of n atio n s , an d of

which th e m ean est m echan ic or trades m an i n Bri
tain wo uld be asham ed B ut sham e is l i ttle kn own .

i n R u ssia ; an d as i f the cold cli m ate had so m e

,

physical e ffect the rosy blu sh of awake n ed c on
,

scien ce i s rarely perceived .

I have b ee n extrem ely s u rpri sed by t he very

l
opposite opi n i on s of traveller s as t o the q ual ity of

the g e ology of R us i i s a, n t he Tra i

ns ac t on s of t he Ge ologi c al
S oc ie t y of L o d o Se c o
n n. nd Se ri e s , vo . 1 . p art 1 . n ot e , p . 31 .
 ARM- FAB R I C

the arm s of the fabr i c a t TI i a as well as the c u tlery

O f this tow n which has bee n n ot u n appropriate y
,

term ed the She ffi eld an d the Birm i n gham of R u ssia

l l
AT

,
I
TU L A . 43

This wide differe n ce m u st have arise n from ign o

~

ran ce or prej u dice Tooke speaki n g of the visit

.
,

of th e E m peror Joseph II to R u ssia says he .

, ,

stopped at Tula to exam i n e the hardware m an u

l
factory on wh i c h Catheri n e ha d spared n o e x p e n c e
,

for b r i n gi ng it to i ts prese n t perfectio n an d per ,

haps it yield s i n n o respect for t he beau ty of its

l
work m an ship to th e m an u fac t or i e s of Sheffi eld an d
Had Mr Tooke bee n at u a
'

.
,

an d exercised his ow n eyes a n d j u dgm e n t h e co u ld ,

n ever ha v e spoke n i n s u ch high ter m s of i ts pro

d u c t i on s bu t I s u ppose he was e d away by the

l l
O pi n io n s of th e Ger m an writers A late au thor .

has spoke n n early to t h e sam e effect M ais c c ,

qu i l y a de pl u s re m arqu able says h e c c son t , ,

l

les fabriq ues e n acier e t s u r to ut celle d arm es qu e
, ,

on travaille m ai n te n a n t d u n tel n i qu o n n e pe u t

l
pas les disti n gu er des o uvr ages A
R u ssP an au thor has a s o reported that the arm s ,

m ade at T i i a i n bea u ty an d i n work m an ship do
, ,

n ot fall belo w those of the best m an u factories i n

E ur op e f These state m e n ts on ly prove that their ,

au thors were n either j u dges of c u tlery n or of arm s

l
.

Took e C ath ri I I o 2 p 407

s e ne . v . . . .

1 L t t r ri t d Voy g e d e M osc o Cau c as e p ar

e es c es an s n u a u au

e D oc t ur Ki m m l 1 8 1 2
e p 4
e , . . .

1: G re at Di c t i o ry f t h e R
na ussian E m p ir
o e . A t r i l Tul
c e, a.
 l l

44 A R M -F A BR I C AT T I JL A ;

Dr Clarke W ho was n ever fo n d of payi n g c om

.
,

i m e n t s to R u ssia her prod u ctio n s or h e r n at i ves

p , , ,

the ladies an d the k oz ak s excepted whe n all u di n g ,

to the hardware an d the c u t e r v of Tula states , ,

that the work is sho wy but very bad an d will , ,

n ot bear the s m allest co m pariso n with ou r E n glis h

wares an d of the ar m s
, he reports th at th e , ,

n a m e of m u sket i s al m ost all that con n ects the

appearan ce w ith the reality It i s W o n derful an y .

troops c an u se the m ; besides bei n g cl u m sy an d

h eavy they m iss re ve ti m es ou t of six an d are
, ,

l
liable to b u rst when ever
I di ffer i n Opi n io n fro m all these writers NO .

m an who has the least k n owledge of r e a r m s of -

,
'

c utlery an d of what is tech n ically called ni sh

'

, ,

wou ld ever co m pare the best pro du ctio n s O f T i i a
with those of Shefeld or Birm in gham or i f they ,

d i d the vast s u periority of the latter wo u ld o n ly be

,

re n dered the m ore evi den t It is but fair how .

,

ll
ever to adm it that very beau ti ful an d highly
, ,

n i sh e d r e arm s s m all arm s an d a variety of

-
,
-
,

articles i n c u tlery an d hardware are n ow m ade at ,

Tula both at the ar m fabri c an d i n the town O n e

,
- .

person who l i ves i n the B o sh Oi M i i on e street is ,

m ore fa m o u s than all his co m petitors ; an d he shewed

u s g u n s an d pistols wh i ch did hi m m u ch credit ,

bu t they were i n ferior to those m ade i n E n glan d ,

while he req uired a very high price for them ;

Clark e s Trave ls p

,
. 1 80 . an d p . 1 83 .
 A R M -F A B R I
q AT T UL A . 45

m ore, I thi nk than wo uld be asked for as good or

, ,

l
better articles i n L o n don There c an be n o qu es
, .

tion as to the acc uracy of Dr Clarke s state m e n t .
,

that the m u skets were of a very i n ferior quality at

th e ti m e of his V i sit as well as before Mr Jon e s s
, .

arri val at Tu a but had they m issed re ve ti m e s

,

ou t of six d u r i n g the cam paig n O f 1 8 1 2 the battles ,

of Borod i n o of M alo Yarosl avets a n d of Kras n oy e

,
-
, ,

l
8 m &c wo u ld n ot have bee n so bloody or rather
. .
, , ,

they wo uld n ever have been fo ught Therefore a .

m edi u m O pi n io n as to the real q u ality of the T ul a

arm s an d hardware is alo n e warran ted by tr uth .

The fut ure traveller however will like y be able t o

, ,

give an accou n t of the o urishi n g an d i m proved

state of the ar m fabric un der the care of Mr Jon es
- . .

R ussia has bee n pec uliarly fortu n ate i n her iro n

fou n d e r i e s an d her ar m fabrics ; for wh ile she h as
-
,

giv en an asyl u m to Sir Charles Gascoyn e to Messrs , .

Baird Clarke Jon es 85 0 she has reaped the advan

, , , .

tage of the ir tale n ts an d i m prove m e n ts .

 C HAP I I . .

CO AL S
M I NE A T T UL A . - A R S NA L
A N CD O T S Y AS N AYA E .
E E .

PO L Y AN A M S N S K O E B OKS L L I NG
.
T E R CK SEV SK
R L. O E T I . .

L I TTL R U SS I A
E G L UC H O E B A T UR I N
. A N CD . . E OTE .

N EJI N .R OV A I E H DNE R R VI W O K EF
. T E PE . E F I .

K YS O T H H A T O F T H E R u s i A N S A D o
E T E E R s s . PR E r

L I B R AL
E O I NI O N S KIE
P A N M A L M A GN T I S M
. E. I E .

T R I B U NA L S G N R A L C O R UPT I O N O A D M N I S R AT O N
.
- E E R F I T I

T H O U G H O UT R U SS I A C A T A I N C O C H A N S E VI D N C E

R . P R E E .

N S T A NC S O
I I NJ U S I C
E F T E.

TH E E m peror an xio u s t o have the co al which is

, ,

fo u n d i n differe n t parts of the govern m e n t of

Tula properly exam i n ed i n the year 1 8 1 7 thro u gh
, , ,

his am bassador i n L on do n e n gage d Mr L on g ,

.

m ire of C u m berlan d to go to R u ssia an d allowed

, , ,

h i m a ha n dso m e salary Accordi n gly he arrived .

,
at Tri l COAL - M I N E S A T T UL

with a n u m ber of wo rk m e n fro m E n g

a,

lan d who rece i ved perm issio n to qu it their co un

try s un k a n u m be r of shafts i n differe n t districts
,
A . 47

an d m ade his reports to the gov ern m en t He .

fo un d coal which was worth worki n g at di ffere n t

, ,

places and after n early fo u r years reside n ce he
, , ,

left Tula i n 1 8 2 1 The coal of this n eighbou r

.

'

hood for the m ost part co n tai n s a great deal of

pyrites an d the hard coal i s m ixed with m u ch

,

soft coal an d dross The great Obj ect which the .

R u ss i an gover n m e n t had i n View was the e m ploy ,

m e n t of coal i n place of charcoal i n the fu r n aces ,

at th e ar m fabric an d afterwards to hav e it i n tro

-
,

d u c e d i n place of r e wood for co m m on u se i n -

, ,

t he h ou Se s of the i n habitan ts O f the tow n an d

go v ern m e n t as well as of the neighbou ri n g govern
,

m e n ts i n which wood is both scarce an d dear an d

, ,

i n so m e parts of whic h the stoves are warm ed b y

m ea n s of dr i ed t u rf; d u n g an d straw It is tru e ,

.
,

that the Tula coal is of an i n ferior q u ality bu t it ,

Was probably of little con sequ en ce with those ap

, ,

oi n ted to m ake a report as to its adaptatio n for the

p
pu rposes of the fabric whether it was good or bad ,
.

T h e fact i s that m an y i n terests were con cer n ed ;

,

l
an d it wo u ld have cau sed heavy losses to so m e

i n divid u als had the plan bee n s u ccess ful Man y

,
.

of the proprietors of forests who s upplied char ,

coal to the fabric wou ld have s uffered by the ,

i n trodu c tion of c oa an d all the perqu isites and

i

p rese n ts wh i ch t h e p u rchas ers or age nt s have bee n

48 CO AL -M I NE S AT

l
T UL A

l
.

lon g acc u sto m ed to r e c e i ve w ou d ha ve bee n lost ,

'

a n d wo uld n ot hav e bee n repl aced b others as the

y ,

m in es bel on ged to the crow n We n eed n ot there .

,

l

fore be s u rprised that t he T Ii a coal was reported
, ,

to be altogeth e r u n t for the p urposes of the ar m

fabric ; an d that n ally the plan of u s i n g it i n
, ,

lie u of charcoal was aban do n ed .

I believe there c an be but on e opi n io n as to the

u se of the coal at T i la I n the ar m fabr i c i f it
.
e
,

l
was n ot adapted for e v ery p u rpose it m ight still
,

have bee n exte n sively u sed either alo n e or m ixed , ,

with so m e charcoal an d wou ld have bee n a great ,

sav in g to the govern m e n t It ass uredly i s n ot so .

w el tted for the w arm i n g of stoves Accide n ts .

ofte n aris e eve n fro m charcoal which the i n habit ,

an ts hav e bee n acc u stom ed to m an age fro m ti m e

i m m e m orial We can n ot therefore be aston ished
.
, ,

that t h ey shou ld abst ain fro m the u se of py r i tic .

coal That it howeve r co u ld be u sed was proved

.
, , ,

by the fact that; e v e n i n the severest cold O f

,

ll
w i iI t e r Mr L o n g m ire b u r n ed n othi n g else i n his
'

.
,

hou se The way i n w hich this spec u latio n was

.

desisted m ay serve as a specim e n how all affairs

,

are m an aged i n R u ssia : i n d ivid u al i n terest is c on

s t an t co n s u lted an d the m o n arch an d the gover n
y ,

m e n t are daily deceived .

The A r sen a so m eti m es n a m ed O r uy e zn oi Dvor e

, ,

or arm ory is sit uate i n the Z ar etshay a S t or on a ; it
,
'

con sists of a n e large ce n tral edice an d exte n ,

s i ve b uildi n gs on each side wh i ch i n close an i m ,

 l
A N E CD O T E 49

l
. .

m e n se co urt an d i s un q u esti o n ably On e of the m ost

,

re m arkable stru ctu res i n Ti a It is capable of .

con tai n in g re arm s an d s m all arm s for

- -

troops ; but at ou r Vi sit n o m ore than for

'

l
m e n were arran ged Ar m s of all ki n ds an d of
.
,

di ffere n t n at i o n s are taste fully displayed i n the

vestib u le as well as i n the upper an d lower stori es
, ,

a ccordi n g to a reg ul ar plan It requ ires a lon g .

ti m e to take eve n a g an ce Of the i n ter ior of this

b uildi n g I n a press i n the lower story are pre
.

s e rv e d di ffe r e n t fu sees which are said to have bee n

t
,

m ade d ur i ng t he vi si ts of t he sovereig n s of the

e m pire an d of the m e m bers of the i m perial fam ily
, ,

to the fabri c O f arm s an d to have been presen ted

,

to the m before their departu re i n order to Show ,

the expedition an d the qu al i ty of their workm an

l
ship Th ey are so beau tifully exec u ted that on e
.
,

is apt to s uspect the tru th of the above accoun t .

Soo n after ou r arr i val at Tula we sen t our letters

of recom m e n datio n an d ou r cards to the civil

govern or Co un t V as si i vi t c h by a m esse n ge r
, ,

w h o w as ordered to prese n t ou r com pli m e n ts an d ,

ask at what tim e i t wo uld be co n ven ien t for His

l
E xcelle n cy to receive u s The servan t retu rn ed.

w i th a card for each of us an d wi th a verbal m e s ,

sage that the go vern or bei n g u n well regretted

,

m u ch that he co u ld n ot have the pleas u re of seei n g

u s that day Co u n t G to who m we had a s o se n t
. .
,

ou r letters an d cards very soo n afterwards called

,

u po n u s an d i n vi ted our party to d i n n er

, A fter .

V OL . I. E
50 A NE CD O TE .

l
re m ai nin g an h ou r he propo sed t o carry u s t o a
,
.

shor t d i stan ce to see s o m e regi m e n ts on parad e .

O n our w ay thithe r i n on e of the pr i n cipal street s

an equ ipage rap i dly approached Coun t G asked . .

i f we h ad an y letters for th e c iv i gove r n or W e .

replied w e had sen t so m e to hi m But before

,
.

we had ti m e t o add an other word the Coun t sai d , ,

l
Th i s i s the gover n or an d m ade a Sign that he
,

w i shed to Speak w i th hi m The carri age stopped

.

accordi n gly an d we were i n trodu ced to hi m Thi s

, .

m ight have bee n expected to be rather an awk

ward r enc on tr e but Co u n t V assi i evi t c h behave d
,

w ith the greatest sang froi d an d polite n ess The .

or din ary sal u tation s bei n g over he tran qu illy said , .

Gen tlem en I h ad the hon ou r of receivi n g you r

,

letters an d of retu rn in g an an swer to y ou r polite

,

m essage . Tho ugh u n well I thou ght afterwards ,

of go i n g to call u po n you an d am n ow so far on ,

m y way . But we fo u n d that the Co u n t was on
his road to call u pon an ot her traveller who had ,

taken up his qu art ers at the sam e i n n .

O n the sam e day we di n ed with a R u ssian

Coun t who was m ost affable obligi n g an d c om
, , ,

m u n i c at i ve H e i n vi ted u s also to su pper ; an d the

.

l
i n v itati on after so m e atte m pted evasion s was ac
, ,

c epte d . At hal f past n in e O clock we arrived at (

the hou se an d to our u tter aston ish m e n t were told

, , ,

by th e ser van t i n the an ti cham ber that h i s m aster

-
,

t h e Co un t was go n e to bed
, O n the fo l owi n g .
 H OU S E S OF TH E PE A S A N TS . 51

day hi s excelle n cy called u pon u s m ade an ,

ll
a w kward apology an d co n tin u e d his ki n dn esses
, .

O n the 1 3 th April i n the eve n in g we left , ,

T li la an d near the Ki evskaya Z astava or barrier
, , ,

we had a n e view of the tow n A ch u rch i n an .

,

e levated sit u atio n i n the m idd e of the p ub i c

,

ce m etery w hich had previo usly attracted ou r atte n

,

t i o n rose before u s It is of a r o u n dish form

, .
,

adorn ed with col um n s an d s urm oun ted by a do m e , ,

l
an d a ffords a si n gular speci m en O f ecclesiastic
arch itectu re Its h eight is by far too great for its
.

other proportio n s ; an d as Dr Clarke who has r e , .

,

prese n ted i t i n a view of Tula has well said it i s , ,

m ore lik e a n oble m a n s pa a ce tha n a place of
worship

lll
.

Soon after q uittin g Tula we were str uck wi

the blackn ess of the soi l an d t he n akedn es s of t he ,

cou ntry Havi n g advan ced abo ut 1 2 versts it

.
,

beca m e un d ulati n g a n d woody ; an d n ear the st

station the i n terest of t he sce n ery was en hanced
,
.

by t h e n oble m an sio n of Pri n cess V o eh n sk ii .

l
So uth of Tula there is n ot s u ch a profu se waste
of ti m ber i n the con stru ctio n of the hou ses Of
the peasan ts as n earer St Petersb u rgh for the .
,

ll
b est of reaso n s that it is i n n itely dearer I n
,
.

deed som e of the ho u ses are n ot b u i t i n t he

,

u s ua l way w i th large b alks or real tr un ks of trees , ,

m orticed together at the cor n ers bu t co n sist of ,

h i -
wattled wicker work T e dwe l gs or r ather
-n .
~
, w

the h uts of the peasan ts wh i ch rang e a gpg pph

,

E
,

2
" , ~
j
 52 Y ASN A Y A

l
l
P OL Y ANA .

l
s id e s of the r oad are m o e paltry i n their appear
,

an ce an d m ore si m ple i n thei r stru cture than

, ,

l
those betwee n t he cap i ta s I n dee d they gra .

du ally becom e m ore m i serable as we proceed

s ou thward til we co m e to regi on s where ston e
,

a bo un ds. The vign ette at the top of th i s chapter

i lu strates the appearan ce of the better ho u ses of
t he R u ssian peasan ts wi th the i r gables fro n ti n g the
,

l
r oad ; as well as their u s u al m ode of draw i n g water

fro m n u m ero u s wells re m arked i n al m ost every

vi llage ; an d the m an n er of travelli n g i n wi n ter .

l l
The costum es are t oo characteri stic to requ ire de
s cr i ptio n. I n the rst vign ette i s O bsc u re y seen
on e of the m ean er h u ts on the r ight m a n y of ,

l l
w hich we re m arked i n our prog r ess to t h e so uth .

Yasn aya Po yan a i s called a se ts o or sm all ,

v illage wi th a ch u rch ; an d the travelle r i s n ot

dece i ve d b y i ts un ass um i n g appellation From .

th i s station to S ov a the sce n ery i s of t he sam e

k in d ; the soi l still blacker an d the corn e ds so,
-

exten si ve as to see m bou n dless : an d s u ch w as

t he face of the co un try with l i ttle va r i at i o n t o
, ,

Mtse n sk . I n the way thither we passed a fe w

of the seats an d vi llas of the n obles an d n ea r ,

Se r gi vsk oy the n e hou se of Pri n ce Gagari n

,

presen te d itself before us

l
.

I
The stran ger who leaves Moscow wi t h the idea
i that the R u ssian s are barbari an s an d that the co un
,

Thi s tow n i s l
c a ed M e t z i nsky by Mac michael .
 VI L L A S BL ES

or T HE R U S SI A N NO . 53

try i s i n a savage state m u st be equally aston i she d

,

an d grat ied by the sight of s u ch n oble m a n s i o n s

,
s u ch sple n did Villas an d s u ch beauti ful estates
, as ,

every n ow an d the n b u rst upon h i s Vi ew They are .

i n dication s of a certai n degree of c ivili satio n an d

taste for i m prove m e n t ; althou gh n ot co m m e n s urate
to what a m e r e in spectio n m ight s uggest They ar e .

rather the harbi n gers of fut u re than the test of pre ,

s e n t re n e m e n t i n the ge n eral pop u latio n or m ore , ,

correctly speak in g am on g the m ass of the n obility

, .

l
For thou gh it can n ot be de n ied that som e Of t he
,

travelled n obles of those who have passed thei r

,

d ays at co urt or who hav e dwelt m u ch i n the

,

cap i tals have adopted all the ren e m e n ts of p o

,

i sh e d l i fe i n the i r palaces i n the i r gard en s i n, ,

their carri ages i n their person s an d i n the i r m an

, ,

n ers , an d have e n co u raged literatu re an d the n e

arts yet i t m u st be avowed that a love of dis

,

play rather t han real taste an d k n owledge hav e

, ,

led to the erection of e n or m ou s edices the form ,

ation of exten s i ve garde n s val u able collecti on s of,

pain ti n gs as well as cabi n ets of m i n erals an d other

,

produ cti on s of n atu re He n ce it frequ en tly hap

.
,
.

pe n s that after havi n g adm i red a m agn icen t

,

m an sio n we c an scarcely s uppose that we are i n

,

co n versation with it s proprietor so i n co n si ste n t i s ,

the ten or of hi s q u estion s an d his an swer s an d ,

his ge n eral behavi ou r with the prin cely place he

,

occ u pies .

At the d i stan ce of sixtee n versts fr o m Mtse n sk ,

54

l M T SE N SK

we e n tered the govern m e n t of O r as was i n d i cated

.

l
by a m assy sq uare colum n Mtsen sk i s the chie f .

town of on e of the di stricts of th i s govern m e n t ,

l
an d lies upo n bot h sides of the Z u s h a an d at the ,

e m bou ch ure of the M t se n a fro m which i t derives ,

its n am e It is sit u ated i n a p ai n but s u rro un ded

.
r

on every side by hills : its vi c in i ty i s ri ch i n

m eadows an d corn e d s but n ot i n wo od
-
, L ike .

m ost of the tow n s of R u ssia i ts appearan ce at a ,

l
di stan ce is m u ch m ore pleas in g than i t s reality .

T his i s chiey owi n g to the n um ber of ch u rches

ll
an d m o n asteries whic h are fo un d every W here ,

gau dily pai n ted an d al m ost always displayi n g

,

t heir gi d ed do m es Mtsen sk i s d i vi ded i n to three

.

par t s : the Zam ok or Castl e as i t i s called ; the

, ,

K r e m e ; an d the Z e m i an oi -G r od The hou ses .

are m ostly b uilt Of wood an d am oun t to 8 00 or ,

ll
900 . The pop ulation has been stated at from
3 5 00 to 5 000 so uls an d for this pop u lat i o n there
,

are twelve ch u rches besides a m o n astery at which

, ,

d iv ine service is d aily per form ed L ike all the .

ed ices for the trib u n a s 8 m which arose i n the dis

, .

tri ot town s of R u ss i a i n the reign of Cathari n e 1 1

, .

that of Mtse n sk greatly rese m bles a pa ace The .

prin cipal co m m erce of this town co n sists i n

corn an d he m p wh i ch are e m barked u po n the
,

Z u sha an d by m ean s of the O k a i n to which this

, ,

river falls they are tran sported througho ut the

,

e m pire .

Havi n g l eft Mtse n sk w e a dvan ced r apidly ,

 l
I

OREL .
55

l
through an u n or n am e n ted bu t fertile coun try an d ,

l
i n t h eafter n oon e n tered O r at full gallop We .

got i n to a very dirty i n n tho ugh it was said to be

,

the best i n the town an d had it n ot bee n for our ,

ow n cook we sho u d have fared badly

, .

O r is t he chief town of the govern m e n t of t he

l
sam e n am e It is s it uated on the ban ks of the
.

O k a an d of the O rli k which j om together i n the

,

town at the distan ce of 3 67 versts fi om Moscow

,
r .

The tradition s of the v ulgar derive its n am e from

O r , an eagle an d prete n d t hat this bird i n dicated
,

where the tow n shou ld be b uilt Thi s re m i n ds u s .

O f the eagle wh i c h w as said to ho v er over the

head of Pri n ce K u tuz of before the m e m orable

l
battle of Boro di n o an d was o m i n o u s of Victory
,

l
Bu t we believe the eagle was on ly seen i n books ;

l
an d if it did Show i tsel f; it rather porte n ded de

l
feat for though the R u ssian s m ade a n oble stan d

ll
at that v i l age they were s u bsequ e n tly obliged to
,

r etreat . T he n am e O r e i s evide n tly der iv ed from
the O r ih .

T he date of the origi n of O r is u n k n own but ,

i t was a m ost e n ti rely destroyed by the L ith u an ian s

l
i n the beg in n i n g of the 1 7 th ce n t u ry ; i n deed it
h as frequ e n tly bee n pi aged an d r u in ed both by
the Poles an d by the Krim Tartars It exte n ds

alon g the ban ks of the O k a an d the O rli k chiey ,

u pon an exte n sive plai n a m idst ge n tle h i l s which

, ,

be in g n early destitute of wood have a bleak ap ,

E 4
 l
56 O R EL .

l
p e ar an c e . I t i s di v i d ed i n to thre e qu ar ters , the
M osk vsk aya the K r m sk aya an d the Z ei Or i t sk aya
, , .

The t err ace form ed by the palace of the govern or ,

the ho u se of the vice govern or the post ofc e t he -

,
-
,

dwel i n g of the com m an d in g ge n eral an d th e ,

ostr og or prison wi th its towers an d white walls

, , ,

like a li ttle town occ upies a com m an din g Sit u ati on

, ,

an d for m s the chie f or n am e n t of the ci ty B y far .

the greatest part of the hou ses are b uilt of wood ,

at the sam e ti m e ther e is a c on si derable ad m ixt u re

l
of ston e e di ces an d the i r n u m be r i s daily i n
,

c r easi ng Th e scarcity of w ood i n th i s part of the

.

l
R u ssian e m p i re i s con d u c ive to the i m prove me nt
,

of arch i tect u re as i t forces the i n hab itan ts t o u se

,

ston e Few of the st r e e t s i n O r are worth n otice

. .

l
There are 1 8 ch u rches an d t w o co n ven ts i n thi s
t ow n wh i ch as we l as the pop u lar school and th e
, ,

trib u n als o nly clai m a glan ce fro m the traveller I n

, .

the year 1 805 t he n u m ber of i t s i n habitan ts w as

,

esti m ated at ab out 7 7 1 7 an d by Mr V sv o oj sk ii , .

,

i n 1 8 1 3 at , an d at that ti m e h e probably , ,

was acc u rate I n 1 8 2 3 the sam e n um ber i s give n

.
,

by th i s author ; but after the facts wh i ch have ,

co m e to ou r kn owledge we have n o great fai th i n

'

h i s r ecent state m e n ts .

The arts of book m akin g an d Of low booksellers

-
,

an d p u blishers are n ot unk n own i n Moscow an d

,

Petersb u rgh E xam ples of the ill ustrati on of this

.

fact m ight be easily give n but I shall co nte n t m y ,

s elf w i th a s i n gle case as it i s a very re m ar kabl e ,

 l
B O O K SE L L I N G -T R I CK . 57 ,

l
on e on accoun t of the i n divi d ual who ut it in
p
practi ce .

D i ct i on nai r e Geog r ap zi gue

I n the year 1 8 1 3 a ,

H i st or i que de ZE mp zr e de R ussi e ,
'

was p u blished
at Moscow by Mr V sv o oj
, sk ii State Co un sello r
.
, ,

Chevalier of th e order of St George &c w h o .

, .
, ,

for m an y years had the m ost disti n g uished pri n t

:
,

i n g otc e i n that city an d who is the prese n t gover

-
,

l
n or of Tver This dicti on ary i s chiey an abridge
.

l
m e n t of a great an d m ost u se fu l work which m ade ,

i t s appearan ce l i ke wi se i n the an cie n t capital of

R u ssia betwee n the years 1 8 0 1 -9 i n seve n volu m es
, , ,

u n d er the t i tle of S ovcir Ge o r a

or parts 4 to , .
, .

l
p h it c he s ci i R ossii s k a k o Gosud cir s tva or A Geo , ,

graph i cal Diction ary of the R u ss i an E m pire .

Bei n g pu bl i shed i n R u ss i an i t has procu red li ttle ,

fam e for i ts au thor Mr St c h k at of beyo n d hi s , .

,

ll
n at i ve co untr y ; an d Mr V s vo o sk ii i n m y op i .
,

n i on ,
did n ot s uf ci e n tly ack n owledge hi s obliga
tion s t o the ba si s of h i s Fre n ch perform an ce It i s .

l
tru e he co m piled likewise from other au thors espe
,

l l
c ia fro m "Pa l as an d his acco un t of O d essa he
y ,

took fro m Mr S i c ard s L etters n early verbati m
.
, ,

witho u t the least allu sion to thei r au thor M r . .

j
V sv o o sk i i s two octavo vol u m es m u st ha v e bee n
fo u n d partic u arly u sefu l to travellers an d forei g n
ers ; an d though n u m ero u s errors an d som e i m
, ,

porta n t o mi ssion s m ight be com plain ed of; sti l I

,

am i n cl i n ed t o pall i ate the i m perfectio n s of a rst

e d i t i o n Of s u ch a pro du cti o n a n d eve n to allow i ts ,

58 B O O K SE L L I N G -T R I CK .

co m piler c on siderable m erit for hi s labo ur s A .

l
n u m ber of copies of th i s work bei n g reta i n e d

for sale i n R u ssia; the pr i n c ipal part of the e di

tio n I have bee n told was se n t to be d i spose d
, ,

l
of i n Ger m a n y F o u r years ago a c opy of Mr
. ;

V s vo oj

sk i i s dictio n ary co u l d n ot be bo u ght but ,

at an extravagan t pri ce i n e i ther of the capitals of

,

l
th e n orther n e m pire ; bu t after an other twelve ,

m o n th it was exposed i n a th e booksellers shops
, ,

an d at the or i gi n al price of 1 6 ro u bles O n express .

in m s u rprise at this circ um stan ce t o a book

g y
se l er he replied that the sol u tion was very s im ple
, , .

M ost of the cop i es said he , wh i ch were sent ,

to Germ an y n ot hav i n g bee n sold h ave bee n

, ,

retu r n ed t o Moscow an d we are n ow i n possessio n

-
,

of the m . L ast spri n g a n e w editio n of the work
i n qu es ti o n was an n o un ced i n the n ewspapers ; I
read th e adverti se m en t wi th m in gled feelin gs of
a sto n i sh m e n t a n d s u sp i c i o n of frau d Soon aft er . .

w ar ds th e sai d ed i tion was p u bl i shed an d I pro; ,

c u red an early copy an d subj ected i t to exam in a

,

ti on an d com parison with m y copy of t h e rst ed i

t i on I di scovered that the ch i ef differen ces betwee n
.

h
t e cop i es were the follo w i n g that of the rst ,

editi on had a bl u e cover that of the secon d a red ,

cover ; the last had rece i ve d a n e w title page a ,

r e pr i n ted de di cat i o n to th e E m peror

- an A vi s ,
'

a ux L ec t eur s an d bes i des an A ver t zssemen t s ur

, ,

c e t te s ec on de e di t i on Tw o or th r ee pages had
.

been r e -pr i n ted i n t he body of the work t hat i t ,

 l
C OM M E R CE or on
zL . 59

m i ght n ot b e exactly the sam e as the rst editio n ,

an d an Appe n di x was added of 32 pages said to ,

have bee n com posed by Mau rice A ar t ; an d w hich ,

had t here b ee n really a secon d edition of the book ,

of co u rse wo u ld m ost n at u rally have be e n i n c or o

p
r ated i n alph abetical order with the origi n al work .

B ut the fact is that n o secon d editi o n was pri n ted

,

The changes an d addi ti on s havi n g been m ade as

above e n u m erated the sec on d editio n was patched
,

l
u ou t of th e rst ed i t i o n I n depe n de n tly of the
p .

differen ce of paper an d other i n dubitable evide n ce

,

of th is dece i t u n fort u n ately the m arks of the gl u e

, ,

an d of the bl u e cover of the seco n d vol u m e of the ,

rst e di tio n al m ost half an i n c r br oad have n ot

, ,

ll
bee n destroyed i n m y copy Altho ugh the tri ck .

has bee n awkwardly m an aged yet so m e n esse w as ,

atte m pted as the i n qu is i tive reader m ay a ss ure

,

him self of by i n specti on .

The so il a ro u n d O r is black an d yi elds m ost ,

ab un d an t crops This town m ay be recko n ed the

.

e m por iu m of com m erce between R u ssia L ittle ,

R u ssia an d the Crim ea, an d at the sam e tim e the

,

dep ot of corn both of its ow n and the adjace n t

,

fertile govern m e n ts The pri n cipal ar ticles of c om

.

m e rce are c om he m p tallow b u tter bristles,

, , , ,

leather h o n ey wax cloth horn ed cattle &c

, , , , , .
,

which they ch i ey buy i n the sou thern provi n ces -

.

They also deal i n win e brou ght from L ittle R u ssia ,

fr om the K r i m e a an d from the Don ,

E n or m o u s .

u an t i ti es of m o s t of these arti cles are e m bark ed

q
 l
60 SE V SK .

u pon the O k a an d tran sporte d to Petersb urgh

, .

N u m ero u s m an ufactories si m ilar to those we hav e

,

l
e nu m erated at Sr p uc hof also exist i n O r an d ,

its vici n ity The i n habitan ts of th i s govern m e n t

.

are u pon the whole i n d u str i o u s an d wealthy

, , .

l

Havi n g di n ed at n i n e o clock i n the eve n in g we ,

left O r an d travelled all n ight an d the foll owi n g

l l
day by the station s i n dicated i n our i tin erary t o
, ,

Sevsk where we arrived at 5 p m of t he 1 5 th for

, . .

di n n er From O r to this to w n the cou n try i s

.

rich has the sam e black soil an d is scattered w i th

, ,

villages Few of the p a ces we saw deserve n otice
. .

Kr om i is a di str i ct tow n of the gov ern m e n t of O r ,

b u ilt at the con u en ce of the Ndn a an d the Krom a .

Its pop u lation am o u n ts to abou t 5 000 It was .

fo u n ded i n the year 1 5 94 for the de fe n ce of the

fro n tier provi n ces D m i trevsk i s l i kew i se a di stri ct
.

tow n of the sam e govern m en t an d stan ds upon th e ,

riv ulet O bst c h e r i t sa It i s bu t a tri in g place an d

.
,

its on ly or n am e n t are three ch u rches It was on e of

. .

the rst town s which hoisted the stan dard of revolt

l
i n favou r of the false Dm i t r i i It was lo n g after .

wards presen ted by Peter the Great to the H osp o

dar of Moldav ia at whose death it retu rn ed to the
,

crow n Sevsk form s a n other district town of th e

.

l
govern m en t of O r It occ upies the left ban k of
.

the Se v e fro m w hich i t has r ece ived i ts n am e I t s

, .

pop ulation has bee n stated at 45 00 E ve n w ith .

i t s t e n ch u rches it h as a paltry appearan ce In .

an c i e n t ti m es i t was surro un ded by a w oo de n wa

 R US S I A N VI L L A G E S . (51

anked with towers an d by a ditch like m ost of , ,

the fron ti er tow n s n ear Polan d

Som e of our party were s u rpri sed that a black
s m ith who had bee n sen t for wo uld n ot un dertake
, ,

a fe w triin g repairs to on e of the carriages it bei n g ,

six o clock on Satu rday eve n i n g at which ti m e the ,

l
R u ssian S u n day co m m e n ces an d i n deed the Sa , ,

llll
t ur day eve n i n g is o ften kept equ ally sacred with
S u n day i f n ot m ore so Havi n g arran ged the car
, .

r i a e with ropes we le ft Se v sk late i n the e v e n i n g

g , ,

a n d travel e d all n ight I n the m or n i n g of the .

6t h a verst beyo n d T o st u di i bova an d 1 95 5 versts
, ,

fro m O r we re m ark e d a woode n p i l ar with the

, ,

i m perial arm s i n dicati n g the e n t ran ce i n to the

,

Ukrai n e or L ittle R u ssia an d the govern m en t of

\
, ,

T c he r n i gof , The foreign er o fte n com plai n s of the

3 .

wan t of accom m odatio n even on the road fro m ,

Petersb u rgh to Moscow on which are fo un d by ,

far t h e best woode n villages i n R u ssia Bu t on .

the road by which we were n ow travelli n g he is ,

ready to lose all patie n ce beca u se he is as yet u m ,

acq u ai n ted with this co u n try Most of the vi llages .

have a very m ean exteri or an d con sist of straw ,

covered cottages i n which you n d s to v es witho u t

,

chi m n eys an d which are co m pletely lled with

,

l
s m ok e i n the m orn in gs the door an d a hole i n t he , ,

wall when open ed form i n g its o n ly m ean s of

,

escape The roofs an d u pper par t of the walls are

.
,

of co u rse covered ,
with soot All the d i rti n es s .

an d t h of the R u ss i an peasan ts i s re m arked to the

J
GQ D I R T I NE S S or THE R U S S I A rrs .

v ery fro n tiers of the Uk r ai

o n ly re n ders m ore striki n g the di ffere n ce between
their habits an d m an ners an d those of the L ittle or
Marlo R u ssian s The rst station we reac hed i n
- .

the cou n try of the latter is Yes m an an d tho ugh ,

;

on ly 1 9 versts beyo n d the pillar above n oticed it ,

seem ed as i f we had bee n tran sported to a n e w

c oun try The ho u ses u n like those i n R u ssia Pro
.
,

per whic h prese n t their gables fro n t the road ; an d ,

their exterior is white washed The i n terior is

- .

sep arated i n to kitchen roo m an d be d roo m eve n

l
-
, , ,

i n s m all hou ses The roo m s are f u

. r n i shed wi th
tabl es chairs an d b ed steads of u n pain ted r wood
, ,
- -
,

an d over t h e beds w e re m arked white coverlets .

At the post h ou se we fou n d the sm otr ite an d his

-

l
wi fe clean an d orderly They were greatly su r
,
.

prised at ou r exam in ation of their hou se i n detail .

I n a word here witho u t an d withi n all had a m ost

, , ,

pleasi n g an of order n eatn ess an d clean n ess ,

-
.

Thou gh i n cli n ed to u rge that the cold c i m ate ,

of R u ssia the circ u m stan ces of t he gr e at e r part

, '

of the peasan try an d the n ecessity of a whole

,

fam ily bei n g lodged i n the sam e apartm e n t oppose ,

stro n g phys i cal difc ulties to clea nli n ess yet it ,

appears evide n t that there m u st be an hereditary

,

l
wan t of the pri n ciple of ord er a m o n g them to ,

explai n so re m arkable a differe n ce between the

R u ssian s an d the L i ttle R u ssian s fro m who m they ,

a re o n ly separated a fe w m i les an d of co u rse , , ,

where the c i m ate at lea st has n o i n ue n c e f Bu t

'

, ,
 GL C H O F GS

l
clea n li n ess is on e of the fru its of civilisatio n an d ,

civilisation follows liberty ; n ow i n m y opi n io n , ,

the s uperior state of civilisatio n of the M 51 10

R u ssian s c an o n ly b e attrib u ted to their n ot bei n g
,

a n d t h e 1 r other pec u liar i m m u n i

' '

a d st r z c t z e bce
g ,

ties wh i ch ge n e rate an d cherish i n depe n den ce of

,

Spirit .

A n other proof that the dirtin ess characteristic

of the R u ssian peasa n try does n ot altogether de

pe n d u pon cli m ate or other physical ca uses m ay , ,

be derived from the acco u n t given by Captain

l
l
Cochran e of the m ixed race of the people i n
Siberia O n reachi n g the Asiatic side of the Ural
.

l

chain says he I cou ld n ot help re m arki n g that
, , ,

l
the in habitan ts of all the villages were m u c h m ore

civil m ore hospitable an d m or e c ean y dr esse d
, , .

I n little m ore than a co uple of hou rs w e were ,

tran sported to G c hof; a rem arkably pleasan t an d

l
lively s m al town on a hilly s it uation u pon the ,

Yes m an an d by the side of a s m all lake Its

, .

street s are reg ular ; the pri n cipal one is of n o great

len gth an d has an arched gate at each e n d bei n g
, ,

the ou t e ts to Moscow an d to K i ef The hou se s .

r e se nt t h e i r fro n ts to the streets an d are al m ost

p
'

all white washed It co n tai n s seve n or eight

- .

ch u rches an d two con ven ts Form erly it was a

,
.

town of so m e m o m en t bu t |i t was n early con s u m ed ,

by a re i n 1 7 8 2 an d still on e of the ch u rche s

, ,

an d so m e h o u ses i n r u i n s -
attest that its form er ,

N rr t i f Pe d tri
a a J o r y & c p 105
ve o a es an u ne , . . .
644 O B S T I N AC Y or TH E R US S I A NS .

pro sperity has n ot retu rn ed It i s s upposed to be .

a very an cie n t town A fter the treaso n of t he

.
~

h et m an of the K oz ak s Maz eppa an d the r u i n of

, ,

l
ll
Bati i r i n it beca m e the re side n c e of the het m a n

,

of the Ukrai n e It was for so m e ti m e the abode

.

of the gover n or ge n eral of L ittle R u ssia but n ow

-
,

i t is m erely a district tow n .

From G c h of to T u igoova the road is m ore

level an d the co un try better wooded We passed
,
.

crowds of peasan ts e n cam ped u po n the road side -

,

an d cheerfu lly partaki n g their social m eals while ,

their u n yoked oxe n an d u n harn essed horses were

fee di n g aro u n d the m The s uperio r skill of the
.

L ittle R u ssians i n thatchi n g their ho u ses over ,

their n eighbo u rs the R u ssian s str u ck u s forc i bly

, , .

So m e art an d so m e care are show n by t he form er

i n their work ; the latter heap up q u an tities of

s traw u po n th e roo f; an d faste n i t down by m ean s

o f yo u n g birch trees laid over it i n all direct i o n s , .

The co n seq ue n ces i n a storm y n ight are dreadfu l

, , ,

especially i f i n wi n ter Whole v illages are n u.

l
l
r oo fed an d the m aterials are carried all over the
,

co u n try Bu t e xperie n ce will n ot teach the

.

R uss i an s T hey r e cover their dwelli n gs i n the

-

sam e m an n er tho u gh the sa m e acc i de n t sho uld

,

o cc u r a n nu ally Fro m T u igoov a to Krolovets

.
,

the road 1 s san dy an d h eavy an d li n ed on each ,

side by high old willows so that it has the appear ,

n

an ce of an i n ter m i n able ave n u e Krolovets I S .

placed u po n the riv ulet calle d Do br oy e Vodi or

-
-
,
 l
BA T U R I N 65
0
p .

Good Waters With som e adjoi n i n g villages it is

- .
,

said to co n tai n so uls It h as bu t a very .

paltry appear an ce Fro m Krolovets to A ti n ovk a .

,

the road goes thro u gh woods is san dy a n d heavy , ,

an d greatly rese m bles m an y parts of the s u m m er

road betw ee n Petersb urgh an d Moscow I n other .

l
places it is v ery broad an d is bo un ded on eac h ,

side by lofty an d e v e n v e n erable willows whic h

, ,

for m an av e n u e on eac h side These sou thern .

l
roads m ay hav e s uggested the idea to the e m
p e r or, A e xa n der of havi n g all t he pri n c ipal
,

roa ds t hro ugho u t R ussi a ador n ed i n a si m ilar

m a n n er I n this drive we observed a good deal
.

of wood o fte n d ividi n g i m m e n se cor n e ds a

,
-
,

n u m ber of s m all lakes an d po n ds an d within , ,

three versts of the n ext stat ion after e m ergin g ,

fro m a forest of stately pi n es Bati i r i n s u dde n ly ,

b u rst u po n u s The palace of the late an d last

.

h etm an of the Ukrai n e Cou n t R az u m v sk ii , ,

placed upon the top of a hill an elegan t adj oi n ,

\

i n g ch u rch an d n u m ero u s ho u ses of the p easan ts

, ,

with th e Sei m a at this season m ore like a lake

with n u m ero u s islan ds than a ri v er i n the fore ,

gro u n d altogether for m ed an i m posi n g picture

,
.

E arly after the breaki n g u p of the ice the passage ,

of the Sei m a is n o easy affair ; an d eve n when ,

so m ewhat later we fo un d it very disagreeable, . .

A fter goi n g thro u gh water we crossed a wooden ,

bridge got t o d r y lan d an d then e m barked u pon a

, , ,

r aft lan ded u pon an islan d crossed an other woode n

, ,

V OL . I .

66 B A TLI R I N .

b r i dge an d soo n aft erwar ds reached the post

,

h o u se i n the town of Batr i n The ban d of the .

K oz ak s who parade n ear th i s rive r every eve n i n g

,

i n s u m m e r were playi n g i n m arti al stile w h e n we

,

arrived Here we fo u n d a good i n n an d havi n g

.
,

ordered d i n n er we n t ou t to exam i n e the tow n an d

,

palace .

Baturi n is sit u ated i n the district of N i n an d i n j ,

the govern m e n t of T c h e r n i gof It is dig n i ed .

w ith the appellatio n of tow n ; but it stru ck u s as

bei n g a very irregular b uilt village It con tai n s .

but fe w go od ho u se s t w o or three of wh i ch how , ,

l
eve r re m i n ded u s of E n glish cottages It c on
,
-
.

tain s a con ve n t an d fo u r par i sh ch u rches It i s

, .

distan t fro m Ki ef 2 1 5 versts an d was fo un ded b y , ,

B at r ii who gave it i t s n am e w he n he was ki n g

'

.
, ,

l l
of Polan d an d whe n a t h e n eighbo u ri n g co un try
,

was s ubj ect to that power I n the year 1 65 4 it .

cam e i n to the possessio n of R u ss ia At one ti m e it .

m u st have bee n a place of so m e stre n gth for w e

are to d that whe n Bogd an K h m n i t sk ii with
,

hi s K oz ak s s u b m itted t o this e m pire i n 1 664

, ,

Joh n Casi m ir was i n t he terri tories o f R u ssia with a ,

for m idable ar m y but dared n ot u n dertake the siege

,

of Baturi n on acco u n t of its stro n g forti f
,
i catio n s .

Fro m t he year 1 669 it was the reside n ce of t he ,

h et m an s of the Ukrai n e Th e well k n ow n t rai tor .

-

Maz eppa likewise h etm an c hose i t for his r esi

, ,

de n ce i n 1 7 0 8 ; but his cri m e pr oved i t s d estr uo

ti o n for Peter the Great cau sed it t o be razed t o
,

B A TIJR I N 67

l
.

the gro un d I t aft er w ards i n so m e degree r e

.
, ,

covered this catastrop he ; an d the e m press E liza

beth m ade a presen t of it an d of all its depe n de n
,

cies with a pop u ation of 9925 9 so u ls to the last

, ,

h etm an of the Ukrai n e Co un t Kiri l Gr ig r i e vi t c h

,

R az u m v sk ii ; on e of the m an y i n stan ces of that

profu sio n w ith which the m o n archs of R u ssia
,

have wan to n ly squ an dered the p ubli c m o n ey

l
upo n their favo u rites : a pro fu sion n ot co n n ed
to Catheri n e II The tsars an d the e m perors
.

l
ha ve also bee n liberal i n t heir waste of that pro
perty whic h did n ot belo n g to the m but whic h ,

abso ute despoti s m co uld co m m an d withou t oppo

s i t i on an d dissipate wi tho u t availi n g ce n s u re
, .

B atr i n n ow belo n gs to Co un t A n dr ei K i r i o
v i t c h R az um v sk ii on e of t h e so n s of the late
,

h et m an who has here a co n siderable an d celebrated

,

m an u factory of wax can dles an d two cloth fabrics

, .

I have been i n for m ed that the pop u latio n of

,

B atr i n an d its depe n de n cies has bee n greatly

augm e n ted si n ce it rst ca m e i n to the possession of
the R az u m v skii fa m ily an d m ay n ow be reckon ed
,

at 1 5 00 so uls ; bes i des abo u t 7 00 K oz ak s have

,

their res i den ce here pro m isc uo usly with the p e a ,

s an ts .

W e traversed exte n sive garde n s all i n disorder , ,

be fore we got to the palace It is a han dso m e .

b ui ldin g the fro n t is adorn ed by Doric col u m n s

, ,

an d the wi n gs are detached It was b uilt by the

.

h etm an R az u m vsk ii but it has been lon g un

,

F Q
68 A N E CD O T E .

occ up i ed an d appeared to be goi n g to r u in for

,

wan t of a fe w repairs .

l
We had heard so m u ch of the extraordin ary

beau ty of Bati i r i n that we were som ewhat dis ,

appoi n ted ou seei n g it It was the rst place .

where we had the opportu n ity of exam i n i n g th e

pec u i ar physiogn o m y an d the d ress of the M alo
R ussian s an d of atte n din g to the i r lan guage which
, ,
'

di ffers m aterially fro m that of the R u ssian s .

I n their exter n al appearan ce they m ore rese m ble

Tartars than the latter people ; an d they thi n k
th e m selves an d I believe with good reas on far
, ,

S uperior to both .

O n e of m y v al u able an d worthy frie n ds passed

m an y years of hi s li fe at Bat r i n an d as his case

s ubsequ en tly at Moscow well ill u strates th e reck ,

less n atu re of the arbitrary actio n s of an aristocratic

n obility u n gover n ed by p ublic opi n io n I shall here
, ,

i n trod u ce it .

Dr H un t a w orthy an d ven erable m an n early

.
, ,

eighty years of age experie n ced a severity of ,

treatm en t w hich has so m e parallels yet I am

, , ,

happy t o say they are n ot v ery n um ero u s i n

, ,

R u ssia He had bee n physician to the cele

.

br at e d Co u n t R az u m v sk i i spoke n of above with , ,

whom he resided m an y years at Baturi n an d

ll
l l
,

l
at Moscow A fter the old Co un t s death Dr
.
, .

A f l Gr m m r f t h l g g of
use u a a o e an ua e t he M al o Rr - u s s an s ,i

b ri g thi t i t l

M N a r et ck i a ,

ea n G mm t i
s ii
e, ra a ca a or oss s ra z o w as
p ubli he d t P t r b rgh i 1 8 1 8 by M A
s a e e s u n , . . Pav ovs k ii .
 l
A N E CD O TE . 69

H u n t e n tered the service of on e of his son s ,

Co un t L n K i r i ovi t c h R az u m v sk i i with the ,

sa m e co n diti o n s which he had had fro m the bet

m an , an d li v ed i n ter m s of great har m on y an d

frie n dship with his excelle n cy till his death i n

the year 1 8 1 8 The Co u n t left exte n sive pro
.

perty both to his wi fe an d his children Bu t a .

d isp u te aros e abo u t the legality of the m arriage ,

an d a law process was the co n seq u e n ce I n the .

m ean ti m e the Co u n tes s pr e te n ded that bei n g u n

, ,

certai n as to the resu lt of the said process she ,

l
co uld n o lo n ger retai n Dr H u n t i n h e r service
.
.
.

Th u s this old m an who had been i n the Raz u

,

m 6v sk ii fa m ily above twen ty v e years was i n a

-
,

m o m e n t c u t off fro m an an n u al reve n u e of n early

l
t e n th o u san d ro u b e s Her ladyship did n ot u s e
.

the lan g u age of co n solation or of hope whe n , ,

the m esse n ger was sen t to co m m un icate the n ews

of his discharge u sh e did n ot say i f the process,

was decided i n her favo ur she wo u d do an y thi n g

to m ake Dr H u n t s co n dition co m fortable : an d
.

eve n whe n she did obtai n a fav o urable decision ,

she m ade n o offer to do the s m allest offi ce of ki n d

l
n ess to h i m !

To the hon ou r of so m e of the higher n obility ,

be it recorded su c h i n h u m an con du ct did n ot pass

,

withou t se v ere an i m adversion an d reprobation .

Had n ot Dr H un t had a s m a l com peten cy for li fe

.
,

i n a r e duce d r an k of soci e ty appare n tly he m ight

, , ~

F 3
70 N fzJI N .

h ave experi en ced an i n sta n tan eo u s chan ge fro m

livi n g like a n oble m an an d dri v i n g his carriage ,

with fo u r horses to the deepest poverty

, .

Dr H u n t has n ow paid the debt of n at ure ; an d

.

I un derstan d that the Co un tess has bee n profu se

of her worldly goods to a yo u n g m ed i cal m an w h o , ,

treated her with an im al m ag n eti s m at prese n t a ,

,

fa v o u rite m ean s of c u re as we shall see herea fter , ,

i n R u ssia as w ell as i n Ger m an y .

We left Batr i n i n the eve n i n g chan ged horses ,

at B orz n a a s m all town full of ch u rches an d pro

, ,

c e e d e d to Ko m arovka a larg e village We e n tered

, .

it with the ocks an d herds which belo n ged to t he

peasan ts co n sisti n g of a m otley asse m bl age of
,

cow s calves sheep goats an d especially pigs

, , , , .

We were highly am u sed at seei n g t h e M alo

R u ssian wo m e n r u shi n g out fro m their dwelli n gs ,

bawl i n g to an d beati n g an d separati n g the i r share

, ,

of the co m m o n stock an d dri vi n g the m ho m e

,
.

w ards w h i le the lazy herds m an sat dow n to repos e

,

hi m self his d u ty bei n g fullled

, .

A r apid dri ve thro ugh a pleasan t co u n try

brou ght u s to Nj in w hich is r ecko n ed the n est
,

town i n L i ttle R u ssia an d m erits m or e atte n tion

l
,

than it see m s to have gen erally attracted It is a .

di strict tow n i s sev e n ty fou r versts sou th east of

,
- -

T c he r n i gof; an d occ upies the le ft ban k of the O s .

ter Its sit u ation is n early level The streets are

. .

n u m ero u s an d i n ter m ixed with m a n y a rge g arde n s ,

lle d w ith frui t trees of var i o u s ki n ds wh i ch wer e

-
,
 N JI N .
71

o bserved 1 n the fullest bloom So m e of the ho uses .

are of wood but m ore of ston e or of wood with

, ,

their exterior covered wi th clay i n lie u of plaster ,

st u ck over with s m all p i eces of bri ck an d white ,

washed The pri n cipal street which for m ed part

.
,

of our road , con trary to what we ge n erally n d i n

R u ssia is extre m ely n arrow an d has q uite an
, ,

E u ropean appearan ce bei n g li n ed with shops an d

,

crowded with people Nej in is s u rrou n ded by an

.

earthe n ram part an d the ban ks of the river are

,

n eatly e m ba n ked wit h wood It con tain s above .

1 000 ho u ses two co n ve n ts and sixtee n ch u rches

, , ,

all of which see m to be b u ilt after the m odel of those

at Mosco w ; an d like the m also di splay a variety
, ,

of crosses over their s u m m its Besides R u ssian s .

an d K oz k s m an y Greek fam ilies who e njoy

, ,

great privi leges as well as Arm e n ian s com pose

, ,

the pop ulation of this town which m ay be esti ,

m ated at so uls The Greeks an d Arm e

.

n i an s who h a v e the greatest share of the ou r i sh

,

i n g co m m erce of N j i n i n their ha n ds have c on ,

l
n e c t i on s wit h T u rkey Polan d an d Silesia
, , .

O f all the obj ects at N eji m the sple n did gym n as i um

of Be z bor d k o clai m s m ost atte n tio n It is a very .

large ed ice adorn ed by a colon n ade of twelve

,

Ion ic p i l ars ; an d bei ng s ur rou n de d by high trees

, ,

it has a tr uly n oble appearan ce It was i n stitute d .

a n um ber of years ago by Cou n t Bez bor dk o for

the edu catio n of yo un g n obles an d b u rghers As .

the system of ed u cation here followed is every

F 4
72 N 6S O V K A . x oz AR I .

way si m ilar to that of the best i n stit ution s i n t he

e m pire of which I hav e elsew here treated at
,

le n gth I shall n ot e n ter i n to its details

, .

Un able to proc u re post horses at N j

l
i n an d n u -
,

l
willi ng to be detai n ed we pre ferred hiri n g an d , ,

were obliged to do so likewi se at the n ext statio n .

j
The road fro m N i n to Nosovka is at i n so m e

p a ces san dy an d s u rro un ded by e n or m o u s corn

e d s an d exte n si ve pastu res m ixed with woo d , ,

som etim es with dit ch es on eac h side som eti m es ,

w ith rows of willows an d so m eti m es n aked

, As is .

co m m o n i n the sou th of R us sia we crossed m a n y ,

rivu lets an d m arshes an d low lyi n g p laces upo n

, ,
-
,

woode n bridges an d so m eti m es passed thro ugh

,

water while the carriages cou ld scarcely be dragged

,

alon g I n other places the r oad w as heavy an d

.
\
,

as the horses co uld o n ly go at foot pace I had ,

tim e to exam i n e the plan ts by the way .

l
Fro m Nosovka a Kozak village altho ugh we
, ,

had on ly fo u r horses as u s u al to each carriage we ,

ew at full gallop to Koz ari i n forty-v e m i n utes a , ,

distan ce of n early t e n m iles It is n eedless to add .

that the horses were excel e n t : they were also

bea uti ful an d they as well as so m e of those we
, ,

got at the followi n g stages form ed a won derf ul ,

co n trast to the over worked an d half starv ed post

- -

horses which are freq ue n tly give n n ear the capitals .

Koz ari is a Koz ak station The extrem ely n eat .

Se e Charac t er of t he R uss ia ns , p . 31 8 5 46
. .
 B ROV AR L 73

ho u se of the post co n tractor i n the m iddle of a

-
,

co u rt i n d uce d u s to e n ter it Its i n terior well

, .
,

fu rn ished tidy an d clea n asto n ished u s

, , The , .

stables n ext we re exa m i n ed where we saw above ,

a doze n v ery n e stro n g horses i n good c on

dit i on The cau se of th i s m an ifest prosperity
.

was explai n ed by the fact that all the horses

belo n ged to the post con tractor who devoted -
,

his whole care an d ti m e to his b u si n ess Here .

we were advised to take s i x horses for each car

,

r ia e an d at the ti m e we were s spic i o s tha t

g , u u ,

di fc ulties were raised o n ly for the p u rpose of i m

posi n g u po n u s We were after w ards well pleased,
.

howe v er that we had take n the advice ; for after a

,

rapid drive of twelve versts we h ad other twelve to

-
,

m ake th ro ugh deep s a nd over n u m ero u s m arshes , ,

an d across bad bridges be fore we reached the statio n ,

of K o zelets a d istrict town i n t he gover n m e n t of

,

T c he r n i gof, at which a very n e ch urch is the o n ly

l
obj ect which arrests the atte n tio n The road to .

Se m ip olki bei n g thro u gh an ope n co un try an d very ,

good we arri v ed there i n an ho u r an d thirty fou r

,
-

m i nu t es h av i n g m ade the dista n ce of abo v e six

,
.

At Sem i p olki a m ean v illage our road

'

t een m i es .
, ,

j oi n ed t h at which leads to an d fro m Petersb u rgh ;

an d we were obliged to pay eight k op e e k s per

v e r st for each horse i n stead of v e as be fore , Tr a .

v ersi n g the sa m e ki n d of sce n ery we reached Bro ,

va ri
. It had been our i n ten tion to arrive at Ki ef i n
the eve n i n g an d we had p u shed on still wi th s i x
74 B R O V AR L

horses i n each equipage with the vie w of pass in g

,

the Dn p e r before it was d ark The post m aster .

-

l
an d the m aster of an excelle n t i n n rep rese n ted t o ,

u s the dan ger of s u c h an atte m pt an d the i m ,

possibility of i ts execu ti on at so late an ho ur i n the

even i n g it bei n g n ow dark We con sen ted t o
, .

take their advi ce an d wait ti l the m orn i n g ; tho ugh

l
at the sam e ti m e we s u spected a collu s i on betwee n
the m i n order to prot at our e x p e n c e I m position .

l
an d deceit are so co m m o n a m o n g people of their

den o m i n ation that travellers seldo m believe an y of

,

their state m en ts till veried by oc u ar d em on

s t r at i on
. This was exactly ou r case ; bu t we fo un d
that their acco u n ts were a corr ect We h ad .

ro u sed the whole h o use fro m the i r sl u m ber ; the

m aster (a Ger m an ) m istress an d servan ts were
, , ,

soon i n m otion an d a good di n n er was prepared

, ,

to which we d i d am ple j u sti ce ; for we had o n ly

eate n a m or sel of bread fro m the ti m e we break
fasted at Nj

in A fter a good n ight s rest an d
.
, .

partak in g of an early break fast we left Br ovar i ,

with the sam e n umbe r of horses whic h we still ,

fo un d u sef ul as the road tho ugh n early level i s

, , ,

san dy an d heavy We passed thro ugh m an y den se

.

an d n e woods I n deed i n form er ti m es the

.
, ,

l
whole of the co un try wh i c h we were n ow traversi n g
for m ed an i m m e n se forest which beca m e the r e,

sort of ban ditti who attacked an d robbed the pas s

,

i n g trav ellers . To preven t this th e govern m en t ,

ordered part Of i t to be c u t down an d espec i a ly ,

 V 1 E w or "
TH E DN PE R . m in .
75

n ear the s i des of the road so as n ot to afford a ,

l u rki n g place which m ight cover a s udde n attack

-
, ,

l
a n d provide a sec u re retreat .

T h e Dn p e r had n ot yet retu r n ed to its chan n el

after the spri n g ood ; an d we had to cross as it ,

were di ffere n t lakes between islan ds u p to the

, ,

horses girths before we reached the p a ce of e m
,

bar k at i on u po n the real river wh ich we passed ,

u p o n an ex celle n t raft Abo ut two versts from.

Br ov ar i on e of the steeples of K i ef an d soo n after

, ,

wards the town itsel f cam e i n to V iew an d highly

, ,

divers ied the sce n ery to which we had bee n for

"

so m e days acc u sto m ed The views of Ki ef on .

,

the approach are extre m ely varied an d beau tifu l

, .

That fro m the riv er while crossi n g it is pec uliarly

pictu resq u e an d i n teresti n g The town rises to a .

great height on the crest of the h ills wh i ch form

, , ,

as it were a b eau ti fu l am phitheatre over the

,

boso m of the m aj estic Dn p e r whose ban ks are ,

broke n with ravi n es co v ered with wood or desce n d ,

l

with ge n tle Slop es to the water s edge Their side s .
,

as w ell as their s u m m its covered by n u m ero u s ,

hou ses m o n asteries an d ch u rches whose golde n

, , ,

do m es reectin g powerfully the rays of a glor iou s

s u n as we approached presen ted a t out e nsem b e
,
-

altogether e n chan ti n g B ut this exterior sple n do u r

.

o n ly ren ders the disappoi n tm e n t experi en ced on

e n terin g the town do ubly severe .

H avi n g gai n ed the place of dise m bark ation ,

wh il e the carri ages proceeded to m a k e a d et our by

 76 K I EF .

the reg ular r oad we as ce n ded the steep hill i n as

,

t r aight a li n e as we co uld an d u n co n scio u sly an d

, ,

irreg u larly got withi n t he ram parts of the for t ic a

,

tio n i n passin g alo n g wh i ch we had m ost charm i n g

,

vie ws of the s urro u n di n g co un try The sen ti n els .

v ery properly asked an expla n atio n which bei n g ,

l

give n an d ou r p oder o
,
n e an d n am es havi n g bee n

deli v ered to a police ofcer we arrived i n Ki ef , .

I n ou r progress from Moscow to this town as well ,

as on the re m ai n der of the j ou r n ey I foun d it of ,

great serv ice to observe certai n r u e s wh i ch I had

for m ed for m ysel f i n orde r to obtai n i n form atio n
an d a, s a k n owle dge of the m m ay be of Us e to th e

fu tu re traveller i n R u ssia I shall here i n trodu ce a

,

few re m arks

.

"

l
a
There are two keys to the hearts of th e R u ssian s ,

ac qui e scen c e a m o n g the higher an d br iber y am on g ,

the lo wer ran ks By t he form er I have acqu ired

.

m u ch i n for m atio n ; but the latter I ha v e n ever

l
, ,

e m ployed It was a con siderab e ti m e after m y

.

arriv al i n R u ssia b efore I di scovered that an y

, ,

i nt ellige n ce wo u ld b e give n provi ded the i n d ivi ,

d ual who wished to receive it k n ew how to c on

d u ct h i m self I shall i lu strate this statem e n t by a
.

co uple of an ecdotes I was i n co m pan y with a

.

n oble m an when he abr uptly broke off the su bj ect

,

p f ou r co n versatio n by the follow i n g excla m atio n s

Well Doctor I am altogether harassed wi th thi s

, ,

law process which has n ow bee n i n the tri b un als

,

for t e n years an d has cost m e e n orm o u s s um s of

,
 KE YS TO TH E HE AR TS OF TH E R U S SI ANS 77

l
.

m o n ey, besides a n u m ber of horses fro m my st ud ,

an d other prese n ts a n d n ow whe n I expected a

; ,

favo u rable decisio n m y age n ts agai n tell m e I m u st

,

sti l advan ce m ore cash or I am s u re to lose I am .

n ow ou t of all patie n ce Ah ! what rog u es we

.

have i n ou r co u rts of j u stice 1 Nothi n g c an be do n e

l
but by bribery an d bribery to s u ch an exte n t that
, ,

a m an s fort u n e m ay b e spe n t before an i m portan t

ca u se is deter m i n ed I replied ; when he m ade a
.

pau se with a look which sig n ied what say you

, ,

A l ow m e to state to you r exc e lle n cy that I thi n k ,

you r views are perfectly correct Yo ur ci v il ad .

m i nistratio n is i n a la m e n table state n ot w i t h st an d ,

i ng the boasted m elioratio n s of Peter the Great an d ,

Catheri n e II From readin g I had bee n led to believe

.
,

that the legislat u re was i n a state i n n itely s upe

rior to that i n which I n d i t really to be A poor

m an or a m an witho u t ran k c an do n othi n g here ;

, ,

an d fro m what ou as well as m a n y others have

y , ,

told m e eve n a great m an an d a rich m an has

, , ,

n o s m all di fc u lties to e n co u n ter an d a terrible ,

trial of his patie n ce to u n dergo before he c an obtai n ,

a decision n ot to speak of the su m s he expe n ds

,
.

dg
Yo u r co u rts are pollu ted by bribery an d c on upf
'

tio n an d j u stice is al m ost expelled fro m their wall s

,
.

H ow clear i s yo u r ow n case on e wo uld s uppose

it m ight be decided i n t e n days n ay t e n h ou rs , , ,

i n stead of t e n years I do n ot prete n d to say that

.
,

ou r co u rts of j u stice i n E n gla n d exhibit a pict u re

of perfectio n bu t I ca nn ot help wishi n g yo u r ca u s e

,
 l
78 K E YS TO TH E HE AR TS or TH E R USS I A NS .

had bee n tried i n that c ou n try ! D u ri n g the
latter p art of m y reply the ge n tlem an e xhib i ted ,

sym ptom s of great u n easi n ess ; an d when I c on ,

l
e u d e d he ,agai n had reco u r s e to h i s decla m atio n

/ What i n Bi it ai n ! n o n o I have bee n i n E n g

, ,
1
lan d yo u r legislat u re i s de fective e n o ugh Don t .

I k n o w how you r m e m bers of parliam e n t are

elected how yo ur laws are perverted as wel as ,

o urs ! A n d what is y o u r far fam ed an d boasted -

trial by j ury A doze n of ig n oran t m e n o ft e n

?
,

p i cked up i n the streets are called upo n to decide ,

i m portan t qu estion s an d e ven upo n li fe an d death

,

No n o we have n o trials by s u ch ki n ds of j urie s

, , ,

than k God I n this respect we are m uch bette r

.

off than
y ou for i n s u ch i m porta n t cri m i n al cases
, ,

we k now at least that m e n who have skill i n the i r

,

profess i on i n fact that j u dges w ill decide th e des

, ,

ti n y of those whose life or deat h m ay be pen di n g .

Speak n ot of Britai n to m e L aw is the sam e .

every w here it k n ows n ot j u stice it i s a shadow

l

witho u t s ubstan ce I was abo ut to m ake a seco n d
.

reply an d to correct the errors of the gen tle m an

, ,

whe n he i n terr upted m e by sayi n g M y head ,

aches : I am i n a state of agitatio n ; pray let u s

have n o m ore of aw to day - .

By speaki n g as I did I had acted i n coi n cide n ce

,

with m y con victio n ; bu t by attachi n g partic u lar ,

blam e to the m iserable State of civil adm i n istratio n

i n R u ssia I degraded the co u n try m e n of m y oppo
,

xn e n t , I ro u s ed his patrioti c feeli n gs for t h e g r e at

 KE YS TO THE HE A R TS or TH E R U S SI AN S .
79

nati on , bu t
at the sam e t i m e I barred the door to
i n form atio n I therefore determ i n ed to prot i n
.

l
fut ure by the lesso n which I had j u st received .

A fe w days afterwards the sam e n oble m an on ,

m y v i sit th u s addressed m e
, Well m y dear ,

Sir I have bee n very b u sy this m orn i n g : o nly

,

o ok at the n u m be r of letters I have writte n m ysel f ,

besides that packet prepared by m y secretary .

So m u ch the better sa i d I i f they be respect
, ,

l

i n g b u si n ess of an ag r eeable ki n d A n agree .

able ki n d he voci ferated ; n o i n deed : they are ,

all abou t i n term i n able law processes - there is n o

j ustice i n R u ssia what corr uptio n i n ou r trib u ,

na s I can n ot thi n k of it : I m u st se n d m ore

horses as I h ave n o spare cash
, H e was here .

i n terr upted by a m an se r v an t who said s

Yo u r , ,

ex cellen cy the horses are b efore the wi n dow
,
.

H e then res u m ed while approachin g it ,

Ah , ,

Doctor look here at these horses som e of the best

, ,

I have I have got n o spare m o n ey an d therefore

. ,

l
I m u st part with the m W here thi n k you th e y are
.

to b e se n t I will tell you A pair is a prese n t to .

m y age n t i n the capital ; I thi n k they will

look w ell in his black calash That other horse is .

for m y u n der strapper he wi l m ake a n e

-
,

l
appearan ce i n his droshki I am loath to part with .

them bu t there is n o other alter n ative except the

,

loss of m y ca u se I n deed you r case is very
. ,

No help for it m y
h ard ,
I cal m ly an swered . ,

dear Doctor V assi i i co m e here p ut these letters

. , ,
80 KE YS TO T
H l
E _
H EA R TS

in to you r bag and set off i n a t e eg a i m m ediately ;

,
'
OF

l
l
TH E R US SI A NS .

l
tell t he servan t to follow you with the horses a n d ,

take care that n o i nj u ry be fa them on t he road .

L e t i t be k n own as is really the case that n ow I

, ,

have n o ready cash bu t that when I recei ve the ,

obr b/r I shall be liberal a n d sha l n ot forget m

y ,

obligi n g fr i e n ds The serv a n t bei n g despatched
.
,

he agai n tu r n ed to m e an d co n ti n u ed his speech ,

It is hard i n deed to se n d these horses away I

, , .

have n ow m ade prese n ts of a large n u m ber of

horses bes i des so m e tho u sa n d ro ubles si n ce the
, ,

co m m en ce m e n t of the prese n t disp u te an d still it ,

i s u n settled an d God k n ows what m ay be the r e

,

s ult I f I co uld give a large s um of m on ey at o n ce

.
,

the decision wo u ld be obtai n ed bu t this I have n ot ,

a t prese n t an d i t is n o easy af
, fair for m e to bor

r ow . H e n ow pa u sed i n expectation of m y speak ,

i n g an d accordi n gly I replied

, I n deed Sir I .
, ,

thi n k they m i g ht to decide yo u r cau se early si n ce

, ,

ou have bee n so very ki n d to the m They
y .

m ay decide said he
, i n m y fav o u r an d the n ,

,

m y oppo n e n ts m ay carry the b u si n ess to a higher

co urt ; an d i n that case I shall have the sam e
, ,

syste m of bribery to re n ew so that it is m orally i m ,

possible to say whe n a per m an e n t fav o urable deci

sion m ay be give n i f e ver that happe n ; or what ,

e n orm o u s s u m s I m ay be n ecessitated to expen d

before I gai n m y p u rpose Is this n ot a hard .

case V ery hard i n deed said I an d he c on , ,

t in u e d , Well si n ce I have already expe n ded

,
 S PR E A D OF LI BE R AL O P I N I ON S .

so m u ch ,
I am determ in ed to persevere an d to ,

m ake prese n ts of all ki n ds as lo n g as m fortu n e

y ,

w ill stan d it I m erely an swered
. I hope yo u r ,

excelle n cy will ulti m ately s u cceed Pray have .
,

ou heard the n ews ? What ews ? That
y n

the Neapol itan rebels are all qu elled an d the n

the s ubj ect was chan ged .

By associati n g with those m ilitary o fcers who

are e n dowed with ope n ge n ero u s hearts m u ch
\
i n form atio n is also obtai n ed There c an be n o t .

do ubt that liberal se n ti m e n ts are taki n g deep root

am o n g the R u ssian n obility an d especially am on g ,

the o fcers of the ar m y The ca m paign s of 1 8 1 2 .

,

1 8 1 3 1 8 1 4 &c have had a m ost power fu l i n

, , .

u e n c e i n e n lighte n i n g the m i n ds an d m eliorati n g \ ,

the hearts of th i s class of society the i m p u lse of

, ,

which is likely to be felt by distan t gen eration s .

I have been s u rprised an d highly pleased to hear , ,

s o m e of these ge n tle m e n u tteri n g opi n io n s whic h

ll
l
reected the hig hest ho n o ur u po n their characters
an d I u n ders t an d that i n so m e foreig n co u n tries ,

the R u ssian n obles have spoke n i n s u ch a m ann er ,

as at the ti m e to have cau sed the belie f that they ,

were n ot o n ly i ber a s but eve n r adica s ; either really,

so or t hat as Spies they had ass u m ed these charac

, , ,

ters T i m e however has proved the fallacy of the

.
, ,

latter s uppositi o n an d ge n ero u s an d liberal opi

,

n io n s co n ti n u e to m ake progress i n sp i te of op
j
,

o s i ti o The i ll u m in atio n of R u ss i a Proper ro

p g i p s

V OL 1 . . G
82 K I EF .

c e e d s, an d wi ll ass u redly e n d i n the overthrow of

d espotis m tho ugh the ti m e be v e t d i stan t
, We .

m ay however expect that the prese n t R u ss 1 a n

, ,

e m pire will ere lon g be con vu lsed to its ce n tre .

Ki ef; the an cie n t capital of the great D uke s of

R u ssi a an d n ow the ch i e f town of the govern m en t
,

of the sa m e n a m e lies u po n the w est ban k Of the ,

Dn p e r or Bor yst h e n e s u n der 3 0 2 7 east lo n gi
, ,

t u de an d 5 0 2 7 n orth latitu de It is distan t fro m

,
'
.

M oscow accordi n g to ou r iti n erary at the e n d of this

,

work 8 7 8 versts an d fro m Petersb u rgh by the

, , ,

l
direct road 1 2 8 6 versts It has received a great
, .

variety of appellati on s or of di ffere n t for m s of the ,

sam e appellatio n n di fferent lan gu ages as K i ovi a , , ,

K i i ovi i e K i ow i a K i ow i e
, Kiew K i ow Kiev , , , , ,

Kieff; an d lastly Ki ef which is the real n am e an d

'

, , ,

gi ves the pro nu n ciation i n E n glish as spoke n either ,

by a Pole or by a R u ssian The Greeks k n ew .

this town by a n u m ber of di fferen t n am es whic h ,

are collected together by Se st r e n e vi c z de Bohuj z .

Tho ugh i n volved i n m u ch obsc u rity the fo un ,

dation of Ki ef is referred to a peri od lo n g an

t e c e de n t to the Christia n aera 1 With m u ch .

plau sibility Mr T at i st c he f s upposes that Ki ef

l
.
,

m ay hav e bee n b u ilt by the Sar m atian s th e

ll
,

m ost a n cie n t i n habitan ts of the co u n try i n which ,

R ec h r he
e c s H st o i riq ue s s ur

O r i gin e d es Sar m at e s, &c .

vo . iii p
. . 5 7 8 , &c .

1 On t hi p oi t t h R ia hi t ori
s n e us s n s an s , an d Gibbon s
R om an
Em pire r v o x p 2 1 9 2 2 5 m
. .
y b o
. . a e c nsu lt ed .
 Ki EF . 83

it i s sit uated , an d
rece i ve d its appellation fro m
K i ovi or K i i m o u n tai n s while its i n habitan ts were
,

n a m ed Kivi or m o un tai n eers The Sclavo n ian s

, .

who dwelt u pon the Dan ube havi n g bee n chased ,

a way by the Ro m an s were n ecess i tated to seek for

,

othe r settle m e n ts So m e of the m havi n g arrived

.

on t h e Dn e r s u bd u ed the Sar m atian s who r e

p , ,

l
sided ou its ban ks establ i shed them selves a m on g
,

the m an d adopted their d en om i n ation tran slated

,

ll
i n to their ow n lan g uage He n ce the Kivi were .

called Gor i any e or m o un tai n eers the i n habitan ts ,

of the plai n were de n o m i n ated P o i a n e f an d
y ,

those who took up their abode i n the n orth were

n a m ed S ve r i an
y O ther writers attrib u te the
fo u n datio n of Ki ef t o three S c av on i c pri n ces ,

Kii Sht c h ek an d K hor e f, an d their s i ster L i be d ;

, ,

l
but n o m e m or i als of their reign are i n existe n ce .

Accord in g to the Polis h histori an s Ki ef was ,

l
fo u n d ed i n the year A D 4 3 0 It belo n ged to the
. . .

K hoz ar s who had re n dered the Gor i any an d the

, ,

P o i any e trib u tary to the m I n their t urn the .
,

K h oz ar s were overco m e an d govern ed by t w o ,

disti n gu ished V araig n e pri n ces O sk o d an d Dir ,

.

The R u ssian chron i cles co n tai n n o clear an d cer

l
tai n i n form ati on respecti n g Ki ef; an d the n eigh

ll
bou r i ng co u n try be fore the m iddle of the n i n th

4"From Gar d a hill , ,

in the Sc av oni c
1 F rom P o e a p lain ,

Fr
,

om S ver a t h e n orth
la g ge
n ua .

1: , ,

Vide K aram z in v o i p ,
. . . 33 .

G 2
84 K I EF .

ce n t ury The i n habitan ts of these districts worn

.
,

l
o ut by co n ti n u al wars wit h the K h oz ar s an d other

n eighbo u rs an d oppressed by heavy taxatio n s

,
at ,

le n gth sen t a dep utation to the Great D uke at

Novgorod prayi n g for assistan ce Accordin g t o
, .

som e R u rik se n t O sk o d a disti n gu ished n oble

, ,

l
m an with a n u m ero u s ar m y who del i vered th e m
, ,

fro m the yoke of the K h oz ar s an d re m ai n ed

hi m self at Ki ef to govern the m O leg t uto r of .

,

Igor the son of R u rik havi n g received c om

, ,

plai n ts from the K i vii agai n st O sk o d an d per , , ,

haps j ealo u s of his power asse m bled his arm y

, , ,

m arched agai n st hi m slew hi m co n r m ed his ow n , ,

'

po w er i n Ki ef co n q u ered m an y of the s u rro un di n g

,

tribes an d ren dered them trib u tary 1 From that

, .

l
epoch this co un try was called R u ssia an d Ki e f
'

becam e the capital of all so uth R u ssia I n the .

year 8 8 0 an even t of great i m portan ce gave Ki ef

,

ll
q u ite a n e w ran k ; the seat of the grand pri n ci
a it which had bee n hitherto at N v or od w a s
p y , g ,

tran s ferred to this town I n the year 1 03 7 Ki ef

l
.

was declared the capital of all R u ssia by the Great

D u ke Yar os af .

l
Vi d e R ec hrh
e c es H i t riq
s o u e s s ur

O r i gin e d e s Sar m at e s ,

l
&c . by S e s t r e n e vi c z d e Boh u z , v o 5 83 j . iii p
. . .

j l g rri d th e

l
1 ri g
A c c o d n t o Se s t r e n e vi c z d e B oh u z , O e ca e

l
y g pri w ith h im d wh h rri d t K f h ld h im
ou n nc e , an en e a ve a e , e

u
p i h i
n h d d dd
s r i
ang hi m lf t o O
s , ank d B h l d
, a e ss n se s o , e o

y r m tr y
ou as e ly , p r i t tly
ou d
ar e on an u s ur e ,
n s an c aus e

h im t b m o r d R e h r he H i t ori q
e as sac su O i gi e
e . c e c s s ue s r

r n

d esSa m t &c
r o iii p 5 8 5
a es, . v . . . .
 l K I EF . 85

l l
In the 1 th cen tu ry K 1 e f m ust have bee n a ,

l
town of con siderable size sin ce it is said to hav e ,

the n con tai n ed 400 ch u rches to have been the ,

-

greatest orn am en t of R u ssia an d ce mu a scep z r i Con ,

s t a n t i n o o i an i B as Gibbo great

p ut . n h as w i t h ,

tr uth re m arked its degree of great n ess an d sp en

,

do u r was co m pared with Con stan ti n ople by those

, ,

who had n ever see n the reside n ce of the C aesars f .

Besides as we have had m an y opportu n ities of r e

,

m arki n g the n u m ber of ch u rches i n a town of

,

R u ssia does n ot form a tru e criterion either of its ,

real i m portan ce or of its pop u latio n : an d i n those

early ti m es the ign oran t s uperstitiou s an d u m
, , ,

l
boun ded e n th u sias m of a people i n favo u r of the
Christi an religion whose glorio u s beam s had j u st
dawn ed upon the m m ost likely led to the erection ,

of i n n u m erable te m ples as the best m ean s of i n ,

s uri n g etern al felicity Si n ce this is a prevai i n g .

opi n io n i n R u ssia ev e n i n this co m paratively

,

speaki n g e n lighte n ed age we c an eas ily co n ceive ,

l
h ow places of worship have pro fu sely arise n i n

lll
every to w n i n every village an d i n every street
, , ,

throu gho u t the e m pire .

I n 1 1 69 a fter a lo n g siege K 1 e f was take n pil

, , ,

a ed an d b u r n ed by the troops of Pri n ce Bog

g ,

h o ybskii an d his allies ; an d i n 1 1 7 4 it was also

l l
take n by Svi at os af V s ev o odov itch Pri n ce of Tcher ,

n i of Pressed by the Tartars who had n ot be fore

g . ,

K ar am z i n

s H i t ory o i p
s ,
v . . . an d Not e s 5 22 , 5 2 3 .

1
"
D e c lin e an d F ll f t h R m
a o e o an Em p ir e , vo . x p . . 2 25 .

G 3
 l
86 K I EF .

exacted su fcien t atten tion towar d the en d of the ,

t w elfth ce n t ury the Great D uke A n d r ei Y11 r e
,

vi t c h B ogho yi i bsk ii havi n g tran sferred t he great
,

pri n cipal i ty from Ki ef to V ladi m ir the form er fell ,

l
e n ti rely fro m i ts gran de u r becam e daily weaker , ,

an d so ofte n chan ged m asters d ur i n g the c i vil war s

of R u ssia that at le n gth the pri n ces of L i th u an i a

, ,

l
an d the Poles took possess i o n of i t i n 1 2 05 after ,

l
the death of Rom an the pr in ce of Ga ic i a I n , .

Red R u ssi a the R u ss i an prin ces chose K 610 m an

, ,

l
l
s on of the k i n g of H u n gary to reign at K i ef bu t , ,

h e di d n ot r e m ai n there a lo n g ti m e for M st i s af ,

l
h ered itary pri n ce of Ga i c i a seized the tow n an d , ,

m ade K 610 m an priso n er I n the yea r 1 2 2 2 after.

,

t h e death of M st i s af K om an obtai n ed his l i berty

,

l
an d his estates an d reig n ed i n K i e I n 1 2 35 ,

Ki ef was take n by I syas af with the POIOvt si , ,

l
a n d Pri n ce Michail w i th the T c h e r n i ov i an s
g I n .

1 23 9 Batii kha n of t h e Tartars took Ki ef whe n it

, , , ,

w as al m ost co m plete y rased an d destroyed It .

r e m ai n ed eighty years un der the do m i n atio n of t he

T ar tar s an d i n 1 3 20 it was seized by the L i th u a

, ,

n i an s . I n 1 4 8 1 it was n ot o n y take n by Me n gl i
,

Gherri khan of the K r i m e a but also destroyed

, ,

l
a n d pillaged an d its forticatio n s
, r u in ed an d ,

the i n hab i tan ts with the L ith u an ian V e vode s were

'

carried i n to c apti vity .

D u ri n g the Poli sh gover n m e n t the Ro m an ,

Catholics had n ot on y a bishop a college of Jes u its , ,

an d a co n v e n t of Do m i n i ca n s i n K i ef but als o ,
 K 1 EF . 87

l
so m e ch urches of their ritu al w hich were after ,

wards co n verted i n to Greek ch u rches ; all efforts

to u n ite the two for m s of religio n i n to on e as i n
form er days havi n g proved abortive I n 1 65 4 .
,

the Tsar Alex ei M i c hai ovi t c h took K 1ef fro m

Joh n Casi m i r ki n g of Polan d By the peace of
, .

A n dr usof K 1 e f was le ft for a certai n ti m e to th e

,

R u ssian s i n 1 667 but i n 1 68 6 i t was altogether

,

l
l
ceded to the m I n the year 1 7 1 0 at the di v ision of
.
,

the R u ssian em pire i n to govern m en ts Ki ef was m ad e ,

o n e of the m an d its gover n or ge n erals co m m an de d

,
-

the regi m en ts establ i shed at T c he r n i gof Nj in , ,

Pe r e s av e as well as on the fro n t i er of the e m pir e

,

on the side of Polan d the K r i m ea an d Tu rkey

,
In , .

t h e year 1 7 8 2 all L i ttle R u ssia was di vided i n to the

,

three govern m e n ts of K 1ef, T c he r n i gof an d NOV ,

gorod Sv e r sk ii Accordi n g to the last divi sion i n

- .

l
1 7 96 Ki ef re m ai n ed the chief tow n of a gover n
,

m e n t w hich n ow bears i ts n am e but the town s ,

which are a n n exed to its j u risdictio n al m ost all lie ,

upon the right ban k of the Dn p e r an d were r e ,

c en t acq u ired fi om Polan d r

y .

I n div id uals of di ffere n t tastes m ay gratify them

s elves at K 1ef: The lover of n e scen ery an d the
pai n ter will betake the m selves to the fortress an d

l
the ban ks of the Dn p e r ; the devotee an d the
m o n k w ill i m m u re the m selves i n the holy caver n s
w ith the i nc or r up ti bbe re m ai n s of the sai n ts an d i n ,

the chu rches ; m ilitary m e n w ill be fo un d i n the

castle an d i n the arse n als ; the anti quar i an w i
,
88

b e chiey del ighted w ith o d K 1 e f an d i ts v ici n ity ;

-the architect will n d l i ttle occ u pati o n

the eccl esiastic stru ctu res of R u ssia i n terest hi m

u n less
K I EF

l.

an d the historian to a certai n d egree will be i n , ,

l
t e r e st e d by all those obj ects .

O n our arrival i n K 1ef after exa m i n i n g differe n t ,

i nn s ch i ey kept by Je w s we took up ou r abode i n ,

on e of the m a v ery s m all ho u se but po m po u sly

, ,

n o m i n ated H ot e d e L on dr es, W e were c om .

fo r tably lodged an d fo un d better cheer than ap ,

p e ar an c e s led u s t o expect The fo u r days we .

r e m ai n ed i n this tow n , were m ost act i vely e m

lll
l
ployed O ur letters of i n trod u ctio n m ade u s
.

l l
a cq uai n ted w i th the co m m an dan t Ge n eral Arak ,

t c h f, an d with Mr Buc h ar i n the ci v il go v er n or .

, ,

with who m we di n ed the day after reac hi n g Ki ef , .

Here we m e t with Co un t O i z a the m ar ec i a d e a ,

n ob e sse who also i n vited u s to di n n er We were

, .

agreeably s u rprised to n d s u ch good taste d i s

played by the Polish an d R u ssian n obi it v reside n t ,

i n this tow n The greatest part of the society we

.

l l l
m e t w i th was s u ch as is to be fo u n d i n the m ost
,

Those des ir ou s of di g
n n a de ta il d hi t ory of K f d
e s 1e , an

of i t s m on as t ri
e es an d re li es ma y c o l t t h G gr ph
n su e eo a .

l

S ovarr R os Gos u dar s t va , t h e Po
. n ii K h r is t i an s k ii M e s iat s os of,

l ll
bot h i n R u ss . P l
lik wi at on s

Put e sh e st viy i v Kieve , an d e se ,

R i d
e z z eL ord H rri M kw
es h O de ( S i m a s v on os a n ac ss a, v on e ne

G fah t m d m H r W l h ) O d
e r e 1 8 03 eRe h r h Hi e n a c . e s sa . c e c es s

l
d E l o Sl

t
or iq O i gi d
u e s s ur S m t t d
r ne es ar a es, es sc av ns, e es av e s .

Per M St i S t
. i d Boh j o iii h p 34
an s av e es renev c z e u z , v . . c a . .

p 5 7 6 & 4 l & P t r b rgh 1 8 1 2 H i toir d

.
, c . vo s . c . e e s u ,
. s e e a

T rid by t h m 2 l 8 Br w i k 1 800 K ar m
au e, e sa e, v o s. vo . un s c , . a ~

z i H ist ory of R i o i p 33 1 20 246 &c &

n s

uss a, v . . . . .
, . c.
 l
A NI M A L M AG N E T I S M . 89

ren ed c i rcles of E u ropean capitals but i t m u s t ,

l
be allowed we o n ly saw the ower of it At Cou n t .

O i z a s we m e t with Maj or ge n eral O rlo f who had
-
,

j u st q ui tted h i s com m an d i n Moldavi a an d fro m ,

hi m as well as others we learn ed that the R u ssian

,

troops were a w aitin g wi th an xiety the declaration

of war betwee n R u ssia an d T u rkey H e form ed .

l
on e of the partizan s who disti n g ui shed t he m selves

i n the cam paign of 1 8 1 2 By h i m we were i n v i ted

.

to sup at his father i n law s Ge n eral R a vsk ii
'

- -
, ,

whose prowess an d m i li tary talen ts were c on sp i c u

l
ous d i splayed i n the cam paig n of 1 8 1 2 espec i ally
y ,

i n the defe n ce of S m ol en sk w i th m en
agai n st the very su per i or forces of the Fre n ch .

At Ge n eral R aev ski i s we were i n trod u ced t o a

l
Po i sh n oblem an Co un t Chodk i ew i c z who h as
, ,

porcelain fabric s i n the vi cin ity of Ki e f; who is a

'

great am ateu r of chem istry an d a stron g advo ,

cate of an i m al m agn etis m an d probably of som

,

n a m bu i sm s u bj ects respecti n g which a gen eral

an d l i vely co n versation took place i n which the ,

ladi es w arm ly parti cipated For the last t e n years

.

an im al m agn etis m has been m u ch i n vogu e i n R u s

sia an d by it a n u m ber of m edical m e n hav e m ade
,

their fort un es I was n ot s u rprised therefore that

.
, ,

e very e ffort was m ade to h ave m y opi n ion as to this

ren own ed m ethod of c u ri n g diseases At le n gth .
,

n di n g evasion s u seless I fran kly stated that for

, ,

so m e years after an i m al m agn etis m was greatly

e m ploye d at Petersb u rgh a n d Moscow I was on e ,
 l
90 A NI M AL M A G NE TI S M .

of its decided oppo n e n ts an d took all occasion s of

t u rn in g it i n to ridic u le n otwithstan din g that so m e
,

of m
y frie n ds whose , ta e n ts I highly respected ,

l l
were i t s greatest patro n s ; that I had received
so m e c uriou s histories fro m u n do ubted au thority ,

an d wit n essed so m e experi m e n ts that ast on i sh e d m e ;

a n d that as yet
,
I co u ld n ot m ak e up m y m i n d to
,

d ecide whether the m ar ve ous c u res were m ere y

,

happy coi n ciden ces the e ffects of t he i m agi n ati on

, ,

or the r es u lts of the O perati o n of the boasted m ag

n etic u id W ith the u t m ost di f
. c ulty was I allowed
to m ain tai n m y d eter m i n ation to re m ai n n e utral
'

bet w een t he oppo n e n ts an d the patro n s of an i m al

m ag n eti s m which h as bu t too frequ e n tly bee n
,

m ade the i n str u m e n t of the greates t ab u ses an d ,

of the m ost i m m oral co n d u ct especially i n Ger ,

m an y . There i n deed i t has led to the disgrace

, ,

of so m e well kn ow n -characters an d to the dis ,

hon ou r of so me fam ilies .

At a di n n er party we got acqu ai n ted with a

g e n tle m an w h o was dressed i n a wide ow i n
g
-

dark p u rple colo u red tun ic and who belon ged

-
,

to on e of the trib un als of Ki ef which bei n g ,

m ore a Polish than a R u ssian tow n still retai n s ,

som e of its form er privileges an d am on g other s ,

that of havi n g a xed n u m ber of Poles i n the

co urts of j u stice I was i n expectati on i n cou se
.
,

u e n c e of this to have f o u n d the civil ad m i n is tra

q ,

tio n i n a state of greater p u rity di gn ity an d i n , ,

depe n de n ce than i n the other govern m e nt town s

 l
C O R R UPT A D M I N I ST R A T I O N 1N R U SS I A .
91

of R ussia ; bu t I was disappoi n ted My e n qu iries .

on y led to the co n r m atio n of the opi n io n s which

I have already lai d before t he p u blic i n the Char acter

of t he R ussi ans It has bee n s upposed by so m e
.
,

that m y an i m adversio n s upo n this s ubj ect are m ore

severe than was warran ted by truth A fe w facts i n .

i ll ustratio n of this i m portan t poin t m ay n ot be

m isplaced here an d m ay afford so m e e n terta i n
,

m e n t an d i n for m atio n to the reader .

The followi n g case is n otorio us at Mosco w an d

Petersb u rgh an d i n deed am on g the m ercan tile
,

world thro ughou t R u ss i a Seve n years ago an

, .
,

A m erican gen tle m an who was established at Arch

ll
an gel se n t a qu an tity of cotto n of the v al u e of
,

abou t rou bles to a R u ss i an m erchan t resi

,

de n t at M osc ow for the p u rpose of bei n g sold upo n

,

co m m ission Soon aft erwards he rece i ved i n tel

.

ige n c e that the whole of the cotto n had bee n sold

to M r P hi ip qf a m er chan t of the i nter i or ; an d to

.
, ,

his s u rprise at a price m u ch belo w wh at the state

,

of m arkets led hi m to have e x pected The ge n tle .

m an was by n o m ea n s satised with the t r an sac

t io n ; an d his s u spic i o n of disho n esty fro m vario u s ,

cau ses havi n g bee n m ore an d m ore co n r m ed he

, ,

s e t off to Moscow Here h e got s u ch i n form atio n

.

as led to t he discovery of the i m position which

had bee n practised u po n h i m H e we n t to th e .

R u ssian m erchan t who had really bo ught the cotto n

a n d asked hi m i f he wo u ld be so ki n d as to sho w

hi m h i s books i n so far as they had a re fere n ce t o

,
92 I NS T ANCE or I N USTI J CE .

the affair To this requ est he obligi n gly co m plied

. ,

an d eve n allowed the ge n tle m an to copy an y thi n g

l
he liked r elati ve to the b u si n ess T hu s forti ed he .

n ext called upo n his age n t who e n tered i n to lon g

,

l l
explan atio n s an d the n exhibited his books whic h
,

were all i n reg ular order an d the n am e of M r ,

.

P hi ip gf an d hi s r esidence a r m e d The A m erican .

the n said there was n o s u ch person as the M r .

P hi ip f represe n ted an d stated at a eve n ts, that

,

it was Mr R ac h m an of (I thi n k th i s was the

.

n am e ) who had bou ght the cotto n

, H e n ow pre .

s e n ted the copy of the tra n sactio n fro m Mr Rach .

m an of s books whe n his asto n ished age n t e n dea
,

v ou r e d to a m u se hi m with so m e falsehoods The .

i nj u stice of the deed was eviden t ; yet n o pro

per arran ge m e n t was agreed to an d i m m ediately a ,

law process was co m m en ced The b u si n ess was kept .

i n the c our t s o
fj u s t i ce above ve years an d was ,

then by the adv ice of those who were well disposed -

to the A m erican referred to the decision of an

,

arbitration But i t m ight still have bee n prolon ged

.

other ve or ftee n years had n ot the presen t ,

gover n or ge n eral of M oscow take n an i n terest i n

-

the affair h u rried on the steps to be taken an d

, ,

don e every thi n g i n his power that j u sti ce m ight

tri u m ph To the ho n ou r of hi s n am e be this told
. .

B u t altho ugh t he i nj u red gen tlem an had Ulti m ately

bee n s u ccess ful i n obtai n i n g aj u st decisi on when I ,

left Moscow abo u t a year ago his frien ds e n tertain ed ,

great do ubts whether he wo uld recover any of the

 C O R R U PT AD M I N I S T R A T I O N IN R U SSI A .
93

cash as the R u ssian m erchan t was taki n g every

,

m ean s to deprive hi m of the probability of this ;

an d it was feared that h e wo u ld m ake a fra u d u le n t

ban k r up t c y an d th u s add rogu ery to deceit If

, .

this happe n Mr , will n ot o n ly have lost

.

a great part of his capital by this tran sactio n bu t ,

also ve of the best years of his li fe which have ,

bee n passed i n an xiety an d tro uble an d e n ded i n ,

disappoi n t m e n t .

l
I n m y Opi n io n the state of civil ad m i n istration
,

i n R u ssia can n ot be represe n ted i n too black

colo u rs I n so far as regards Siberia the corru p
.
,

tio n th e ve n ality an d the oppression of the legis

, ,

at u r e were lately m ost la m e n table an d i n credible .

A s ufcie n t con rm ation of its woeful co n ditio n is

afforded by the fact that w he n the late govern or ,

of that part of the R u ssia n territory Ge n eral ,

Sp e r an sk i i le ft his sit u atio n an i m m e n se n u m ber

, ,

of i n divid u als w h o were i n the trib u n als an d w h o ,

had co m m an d over thei r fellow creatu res were -

,

thrown i n to prison becau se that well m ean i ng ,

-

m an a real frie n d to his co u n try had exposed

, ,

their n efariou s practices an d con d u ct I sho uld .

s uppose fro m what I have heard that the gen tle ,

m an spoke n of will n ever retu rn agai n to Siberia

.
,

althou gh I u n derstan d he has occ u pied hi m sel f

m u ch i n prepari n g plan s for the ge n eral m eliora
tion of that exte n sive district which have m e t ,

with the approbatio n of the E m peror Alexan der ,

I ha be e t ol d b t w
ve 5 00 d 600
n e e en an .
 l
94 C O R R UP T A D M I N I S TR A T I O N IN R U S SI A .

who as a testi m o n ial of his regar d has appoi n ted

, ,

hi m a se n ator Wh e n we see disti n ctio n s so j u di

.

c i ous bestowed we are led to ack n owledge t h

y , e

an x i e t an d assi d u ity of his i m per i al m aj esty f o

y r ,

the wel fare even of his rem otest s ubj ects .

Ge n eral Sp e r an sk ii acted with g r eat propriety i n

m aki n g his retreat be fore it was atte m pted to i n tro
d u ce his i n n ovatio n s an d i m prove m e n ts as probably ,

he m ight hav e forfeited his life to his zeal i n t he

cau se of his co u n try Perh aps the recollectio n of
.

the fate of Dr Boot at z haste n ed his depart ure

.
, .

That ge n tlem an after havi n g li n gered away so m e

,

of the m ost val u able years of his li fe i n a Poli sh

l
prison on a charge of m i sde m ean or was liberated
, ,

abou t fo ur years ago an d ret ur n ed to Petersb u rgh

, ,

an d was soo n a fterwards m ade m e d ical i n spector of

l
the gover n m e n ts of Siberia Havi n g carried his .

fa m i y to Yekateri n b u rg at the foot of the Ural

,

m o un tai n s an d settled the m i n that town he set

, ,

ou t on a j o u r n ey wit h a vie w to exa m i n e th e hos

p i ta s apothecary shops &c

,
- I n proceedi n g fro m
, .

place to place he discovered an d exposed the

grossest i m positio n an d pl un der which con d u ct ,

created hi m m an y e n e m ies A t I r k II t sk death was

.

l
the reward for his dilige n ce an d his probity It .

is said that he was there po i son ed an d th us fell the ,

prey of wan to n barbarity .

The reader who m ay wish to be fu rther s atised

as to the ge n era ly corrupt state of all the depart
m e n ts of th e ad m in istrat i o n i n Siberi a m ay per u se ,
 l

CA PT A I N C O C H R A N E S E VI DE NC E .
95

the i n teresti n g n arrative of a pedestrian j o urn ey

i n to that co u n try lately p ublished by Captai n
,

Cochran e I n it are co n tai n ed i n nu m erab e an d

.

irrefragable proo fs of the acc u racy of the asser tio n s

l
m ade i n the vol u m e to whic h I have had an d still ,

S hall have so ofte n occas i o n to m ake a refere n ce

, .

With all his co m placen cy an d partiality towards

l
the R u ssian s fro m the ti m e the pedestrian leav es
,

Mosco w till his ret u rn to that capita i n cl u di n g a ,

co u rse of m an y tho u san d m iles i n Siberia he ,

can didl y an d h o n estly exposes the frightful state

of the ge n eral ad m i n istratio n an d of t h e trib u n a s

of j u stice as they are profa n ely called ; an d ill u s

,

trates the u n iversal oppression of the m iserable i n ha

bit an t s eve n i n the re m ote pe n i n s ula of K am st c hatk a
, .

They are obliged to s u cc u m b i n sile n ce to the yok e

of; co m paratively Speaki n g a fe w m ean ve n al go
,

ver n ors corr upt j u dges ha ughty com m an dan ts

, , ,

an d overbeari n g police oi c e r s ; an d -
besides to , ,

bear the i m p ude n ce i n sole n ce an d oppressio n of

, ,

all their shabby u n derli n gs who are ge n erally a ,

race reckless of h u m an feeli ngs an d of h um a n

m i sery . B ut acc ordi n g to their ge n eral proverb
,

God is high an d the E m peror is far away

,
.

T herst part of this sayi n g is bu t too c h ar a c t e r i s

tic of its abettors an d u n der cover of the latter
, ,

as behin d a shield they have lo n g fou n d con ceal

,

m e n t an d protectio n fro m the p u n ish m e n t which

their sovereig n m ight have aw arded the m W e . -

m u st therefore rej oice for the sake of ou r fellow

, , ,
96 C O R R U PT A D M I N I S TR A T I O N IN R U S SI A .

m ortals , that at len gth Ge n eral Sp er an sk n has

broke n down this barri er betwee n the m on arch
an d the people an d that the E m peror i s n o
,

ll

lon ger far away at least fro m t he kn owledge

,

of the deli n q u e n cies o f the r uli n g fe w an d of the ,

s ufferi n gs of his re m ote s u bj ects .

Beyo n d all qu estio n the ti m e is n ot distan t ,

whe n his im perial m aj esty wil be eq u a ly alive t o

the correctio n of ab u s es an d to gen eral c i vi l ,

i m prove m e n t m ore n ear his res i de n ce However

, .

'

m u c h Alexan der m ay b e di spleased at m y u n

welco m e expositio n of facts n otorio us i n R u ss i a ,

yet He m u st be con sciou s of the tr uth of the

pict u res I have draw n His action s m ay yet aver .

this while his words an d his uhaiz es proclai m other

,

s e n tnn e n t s i n or d er to tran quillise his irr i tated

,

a n d all powerful n obilit

-
y Upo
a n d pai n fu l bed m u st despots repose
n what a pr i ckly

w he n eve n
? ,

l
the m ild the goo d an d the ge n er ou s Alexan de r
, ,

has n ot o n ly to stu dy the h u m o u r of his co u rtiers ,

his m i n isters his ge n erals his ad m irals an d eve n

, , ,

of h i s n obles bu t besides (as I have bee n as

, , ,

s u red ) i n order to p e ase the m

, to act con trary to ,

the dictates of his ow n heart W ho would e n vy .

l
the li fe of s u ch a sovereign with all its eastern ,

gorgeo u s splen do u r an d all its appare n tly gigan ti c

,

powers ? The Shades of Peter III an d of Pa ul .

m u st so m eti m es distu rb the m id n ight sl um ber of

a their s u ccessors to the thron e of R uss i a .

A corporate body of trades m e n had e ngaged t o

 I NS T ANCE S OF J
I N US T I CE .
97

pay a xed an nu al s um to the c ity of St Peters .

b urgh Nearly t e n years ago i n co n sequ e n ce of

.
,

a n u m ber of the m em bers havi n g failed or bei n g ,

i n poverty the s u m total to be paid beca m e a

,

h e avy bu r t he n u po n those who were i n better c i r

,

c u m s t an c e s O n e of the m who was u n able to ad

.

van ce t h e assign ed portio n of the ge n eral s um ,

altho ugh willi n g to m ake an effor t to give the sam e

a s i n for m er yea rs was throw n i n to co n n e m e n t
, ,

a n d placed am i d the basest classes of society A .

frie n d of his i m m ediately u sed all possible m ean s ,

except m on ey i n order t o obtai n the release of thi s

,

trades m an bu t w i thou t s u ccess Whilst he w as

, .

s ta n di n g i n on e of the tr i b u n als i n great agitati o n ,

a person w ho held an i n feri or ofce ge n tly ap

r oa c h e d hi m an d said Sir I perceive that o u
p , , y
d o n ot k n ow how t o extricate your fri e n d fro m hi s
disagr eeable situati on I f you will give m e a
.

twe n ty-ve r ou ble n ote for the p urpos e of be in g

l
properly distrib uted I shall get hi m set at liberty
,

to m orr ow m orn in g
- The m o n ey w as i n stan tly
.

deposited an d on his retu rn the followi n g day he

, ,

w as i n for m ed that twe n ty v e ro uble s w as t oo

-

li tt e an d that other twen ty v e m u st be give n

,
- .

This secon d requ est was likewis e acceded to an d ,

l
on th e third day the trades m a n w as released
, ,

u pon co n ditio n of payi n g his i n divid u al port i o n of

t h e ge n eral s u m d ue by t h e c orporate body .

When abou t to walk off, however the sam e ob ,

i gi n g age n t p ol itely ca m e u p an d m a d e a n e w
V OL . I . H
98 I N ST ANCE S or I N USTIJ CE .

d e m an d pon the ge n erosity of the perso n who

u

h ad already gi v e n fty ro u bles H e told hi m a .

lo n g story abo u t t h e distrib utio n of the m o n ey ,

an d begged t o have a ve ro u ble n ote for hi m sel f .

This was als o gran ted th o u gh n o dou bt h e had

, ,

m ade s ure of a liberal proportio n of the for m er

It is very co m m on i n R u ssia to m ake written

agree m e n ts or co n tracts
, as they are called eve n
, ,

l
on tr i vial occasio n s an d al m ost always i n affairs o f
, .

i m portan ce ; beca u se however di fc u lt it m ay b e

,

l
t o obtai n j u stice or an y ki n d of decisio n eve n with ,

a contract wi thou t i t you c an do n othi n g i n a

,

cou rt of aw No case is ad m itted for prose

.

c ut i on u n less there exist so m e writte n doc u m e n t

betw ee n the parties at iss u e except i n the s ovsn ii ,

sa d or oral co u rt fo1 trii n g cases

, , .

A cou n trym an of m i n e was abo u t to e n ter the

service of Ad m iral a liberal m i n ded -

m an disti n gu ished for the a m e n ity of his m an n ers

,

and hi s ge n erosity an d who has di f

, fere n t estates i n
the sou th of the R u ss i an e m pire The ter m s of

l
.

agree m e n t h avi n g bee n settled the Scotch m an ,

.

asked this ge n tlem a n i f there s ho u l d n ot b e a c on

tract The ad m iral replied n the s e words which
.
, ,

re m arkable as they m ay appear alas are bu t too , ,

tr u e : As far as respects m e I have n o desire t o ,

h ave an y co n tract w ith you ; becau se Sho uld y ou , ,

at any ti m e wish to leave m e the soo n er you did

, ,

s o the b e tter as I sho uld n ot l ike to ret ai n any

,
 '

I NS T ANCE S OF J
I N US TI CE .
99

person 1 11 m y service by restrai n t ; an d sho uld I

wish to ge t rid of you I shall n d n o di fc ulty i n
,

obtai n i n g m y p u r p ose ; besides you have bee n ,

lo n g e n o u gh i n R u ssia to k n ow that i n case an y ,

disp u te arise bet w ee n u s a con tract wo uld be of ,

'

n o real u se to m e an d to o n of n o adva n tage it

,
y
m ig ht be th e c au se of yo u r expe n di n g m o n ey i n
the c our t s of j ust i ce bu t n ot of obtai n i n g a favo u r
,

a ble decisio n .

This u n i n te n ded c r i t i que is perhaps t oo severe ;

for altho ugh there be too m u ch tr uth i n what the
,

ad m iral said yet writte n co n tracts are of gr eat

,

l
u tility i n R u ssia .They for m i n variable t e st i m o ~

n ials of the oste n sible i n te n tio n of the co n tracti n g

l
par ties an d they are the m ore n ecessary becaus e ,

the R u ssian s are m u c h gi v e n to prevaricatio n I n .

d eed so little faith have t hey i n m ere verba agree

,

m e n ts that m e n of b u si n ess as stewards &c c om

, , , .

m i t th e m erest t r i e s t o th e pages of their dai y

l
records We n eed n ot be s urprised then at the
.
, ,

R u ssian proverb
Sh t y t p i o op
es m san n ro

Ne z a r bit t op r om .

W h at is w rit t en w i th a
p en

Ca n n ot be r e as e d by an ax e .

On leavin g R u ssia i n 1 8 2 3 I determ i n ed tO

, , ,

take a R u ssian servan t with m e who had li v ed for ,

som e ti m e i n the fam ily for the sake of m y chil

,

dre n She is a free wom an her brother h avi n g

.
,

pai d 7 00 ro ubles for her m an u m i ss i on an d ranked ,

H 2
1 00 I NS T AN CE S or IN J US T I C E .

a m on g the b u r ges s es Fro m the m agistrates of

. .
~

Mosco w she r ecei v ed an a n n u al passport by virtu e ~

,

o f whic h s h e co u ld serve a n where s h e chose

y
i n t h e R u ssia n e m pire Be fore s he co u ld q u it .

h e r n ati v e c o u n try it was n ecessary to have a

s p ec i al passport for that p u rp o se I applied to .

the m agis tracy after her n am e had bee n three

,

tim es adverti s ed i n the n ewspapers alo n g with ,

t hose o f m y fa m ily as is absol utely n ecessary be

,

fore leav i n g R u ssia Th e I I n de r -a ge n ts s aid the

.

pass po r t c ou ld be obtai n ed i n a day or two pro ,

v i d e d I wo uld i v e the m thirty while the real ex

g ,

e n se d i d n ot exc eed fi ve or six ro u bles O n d e

p .

l
m a n d in g why thirty ro u bles were n ecessary they ,

r eplie d tha t they had to apply to differe n t depart

,

m en ts of the m ag istracy the clerks of which requ ire ,

t o be re war d ed by s m all s u m s I refu s ed c om .

i anc e a n d e m ployed the whole of two fore n oo n s

p ,

i n goi n g t hrou g h the al m ost i n n u m erable c e r e m o

n ie s m ys el f No less th an ve certicates were
.

e bt ai n e d fro m as m an y depart m e n ts of the m agis

t racy e a c h of the m sig n ed by twe n ty t w e n ty ve

,
.
,
-
,
"

o r t h irty n a m es the obj ect of which was to Sho w

,

that n o obstacle as debt preve n ted the servan t s
, ,

departu re T his don e at le n gth the passport was

.
,

o t bu t still it c ost m e above ftee n ro ubles for

g ; ,

s tam pe d pa er s m all br ibes & c The very seal was

p , , .

n o t i m pressed u po n the passport till paid for The .

s u m s w e r e ope n ly aske d an d there see m ed n o e n d ,

to i mp osition or as the R u ss i an s say to prese n ts

, , , .
 I NST A N CE S or J
I N U S TI CE . 1 01

l
In taki n g a fe m ale fro m R ussia whether free or ,

b o n d n o deposit is n ece ss ary bu t before a m al e

, ,

bon ds m an c an leav e h S cou n try sec u rity m u st be

,

m ade by the deposit of a su m whose i n terest will

, ,

equ al his obr k or an n u al con trib ution

, .

Medical m e n thou gh they had bee n p ro fessor s

,

i n a n other co u n try are n ot e n titled t o practise i n

,

R u ssia u n til they hav e u n dergo n e an exam i n a tio n

.

l
i n on e of the u n i v ersities or acade m ies a n d have ,

receive a sp ecial lice n ce O f cou rse I w as n e c e s

.

si t at e d to s ub m it to the u s u al ro u ti n e T w o Brito n s .

had bee n lately rej ected an d I was advised by so m e

to bri be the pro fessors iberally as the s urest m ode
,

of exhibiti n g skill i n m y pro fessio n As I did n ot .

follow the co u n sel give n m e I am u n able to speak

,

fro m person al experie n ce ; but I have bee n ass u red

,

by a n u m ber of i n divid u als that so m e of the

,

R u ssian professors receive bribes fro m the ca n di

dates ; an d i n deed a yo u n g m an whose v eracity I ,

had n o cau se to do ubt said plai n ly that he had

, ,

g i ve n douce ur s to som e ge n tle m e n i f they deserve

the appellation who are attached to on e of the
m ost celebrated i n sti t utio n s i n R u ssia It has e ve n
bee n stated that so m e of the foreign professors hav e
,

b ee n eq u ally ope n to corruptio n I f this be th e .

case I am s u re there are others who are totally i n

,

capable of s u ch co n d uct, an d whose feeli n gs wou ld

be severely hu rt at the v ery i dea of s u ch an i m p ut a

atio n .
 "

C HAP . HI .

P UNI SH M A L F A C T O R S A R S D I VI S I N S
E NT OF M E T I E . O

K I EF H F R T R SS
. T TH E A R S NA O T NE I U . E E L . HE I ST T

T O N O R R H ANS
I F TH O CH E P K O M O N AS . Y -
H E PE T RS I TER . T E

M L TAR Y H S
I I AL HE O A PI T LD K F .
HE T TH E TR E . O IE . T

P O D OL CO NCL U S N
E . D PA U VA IO . E RT RE .

SSI LK OF .

I M O S TI ON O E
P I S T M AS T R S A N D M O D S O PO D SS
- E E F RE RE .

Z V E N GO O D K A
I R GU R Y TH J WS
. D S O ER OF E E . I TI L L E

R IES S N G U L A C U S T O M UM A N
. I O IE K
R C UN . . S PH V A . O

T SS P T O

II M E
'

E O H T T TSK . HO-T
NSE PO E RE B SK I I .
-
K L OV I KA .

A R R I V A A OG OL L R U SS I A N S
T B WA D SHOP C UI T E . TE R . RE R

O FTH E A R M Y C UN Z O . OGH OL
O K N T O ER V SK I I . B OP E . O

S TA N T i NO V A C A VA L Y K ZN S EN S K N E SYS M
. R . VO E .
-7 W TE

O FM I L T A R Y C O L N I ZA I N
I A I D I Y O T R AV L L I NG
O T O . R P T F E .

O D ESSA .

O N the after ou r arrival at Ki ef, we wer e

m or n i n g

i n form ed th at so m e m alefactors were to recei v e the

hn oot i n a sq u are op p osi te the i n n where an i m .

,
~
 A L E FA C T O R S 1 03

P UN I S H M E N T OF M .

men se asse m bled A C i rcle had bee n

c r ow d
'

w as .

for m ed by the m ilitary withi n which M r D 1 1 ro f , s ,

the police m aster re m arki n g we were stran gers

-
, ,

ki n dly i n v ited u s to e n ter A fter the p 1 is on e r s .

h ea1 d their se nte n ces r ead the p u n ish m e n t was i n ,

i c te d A m an 1 e c e i v e d twe n ty an d a wom an
.
,

ftee n stroke sof the dreadful k n oot Mr Durof . .

r elat ed to u s that the m an was a notorio u s character:

H e had b ee n a soldier h ad see n fo re i gn c o un ,

tries Spoke a little Ge r m an deceived every body

, , ,

l
an d at le n gth robbed a m o n astery His p hysi og .

n om bespoke cool n ess an d d e t e r m m at i on an d the

y ,

blackest passio n s of the heart O n his trial he .

boldly told the j udges that the m on ey he took was ,

lyi ng i d e an d co n seq u e n tly w as of n o u se either

, ,

to the m o n ks or to t he w orld an d that by taki n g it ,

l
an d distrib u ti n g on e hal f t o t he poor wh i le he kept ,

l
the other to hi m self h e h ad really bee n servi n g
,

l
b ot h God and m an Th e deliberate strokes of the
.

k n oot distu rbed his sto i c I n di ffere n ce an d drew ,

forth S cri es When loose n ed fro m the r ack a

.
,

s i t op h a sq u are gallo n bottle ) W as prese n ted t o

(
him H e looked aro un d the circle sal uted the
.

mu ltitu de p u t it to his m o u th an d then m an i fest

, , ,

i n g the u tm ost i n dign atio n dashed it on the gro u n d , ,

w hil e he s n eeri n gly s aid I thought it was spirits , ,

bu t it is o n ly water H e w as n ext bran ded on the
.

forehead an d cheeks While the blood w as ow

.

i n g the wo un ds were r ubbed with g un powder s o

,
-
,
 D I VI SI O N S Or K IEE .

as t o re n der the circ ular m arks n earl y as large as a ,

h al fpe n n y q uite i n delible except by excisio n

, , .

l
The wo m an scream ed an d groan ed terribly
d u ri n g t he i n ict i o n of t h e stroke s Whe n loose n ed .
,

she seem ed to fai n t an d was laid u pon the earth

, ,

an d the n covered w i th a shoob or sheep -sk i n pelisse , .

Tw o b oys an d a w om an n ext r eceived th e p et i ,

or w h i ps By t urn s their bodies bei n g partly u n co

.
,

vere d they were lai d at down with th eir face s

,

On the groun d an d were held rm ly by a n u m be r

,

O f assistan t s The exec u tio n er stan di n g on the

.

l
r ight side i n icted a certai n num ber of strokes
, ,

an d the n as m any while on the th e suf

l
l
fe r er s cri ed m ost bitterly ; an d is m od e ,

of p un i sh m e n t althou gh appare n tly p u erile i s ex

, ,

t r e m e y s evere It lead s to the m o st i n dece n t ex

,

osr r e an d co uld o n ly be tolerate d i n a d e m 1 cw 1

p ,

i z e d or barbaro u s co un
All the p ri son ers n d u c t e d to p r i so n ,

an d we retu rn ed t o ou r lodgi n gs .

K i e f, properly speaki n g i s co m posed of three

gran d division s vi z the fortress of Pe t c h r sk with

, .

i ts sub u rb an c i e n t Ki ef an d the Pod ole each of

, , ,

wh i ch h as i ts pec uliar forticatio n while the whole ,

are i n cl u ded by an earthen ram part an d have a ,

garri son which i s u n der the orders O f the c om

,

m an da n t O f the tow n The fortress occ upies a

.

b eau t ifu l an d co m m an di n g hill on the west ban k of

the Dn p e r which rolls its n oble stream abo u t 3 00
,

feet belo w the spectator It i s su rro u n ded by

.
 THE F OR TR E ss TH E A R SE N A L . 1 05

ditches an d
h igh earthe n r am parts with n um e ro us ,

bastion s all of wh i ch we fo u n d i n excelle n t repair

, .

To the stran ger who i s n ot i n search of an tiqu ities ,

it form s the m ost i n teresti n g d iv isio n of Ki e f It

i s on e of the n u m ero u s m e m orials which every ,

wh ere prese n t the m selves O f Peter the Great , .

This sovereig n was prese n t at the religio u s c e

l
r e m on i e s which preceded the fo u n datio n of t h e

castle i n 1 7 0 6 which he afterwards laid w ith th e

, ,

u s u al for m alities .

O f the O bj ects w ithi n the bo u n dari es of the for ~

tress the A r sen a c lai m ed ou r rst atten tio n It w as

, .

fo u n ded by C atheri n e II an d is u n q u estio n ably .

th e n est edice i n Ki e f It is b ui lt i n the form O f

a sq u are of whitish c olou red bricks which were

,
-

m ade i n the n eighbo u rhood an d is two i m m e n se ,

s tories i n he i ght wi th n e arched wi n dows I n

,
.

t he ce n t r e of eac h fa cade is a lofty an d han dso m e

gate A walk ro u n d the exterior of this b u ildi n g
.

i s j u st hal f a verst The i n terior of the u n der

.

story prese n ts a ne sight The ceili n g is very .

lofty an d the whole w i dth by two rows of pillars

, , ,

i s di vi ded i n to three equ al parts i n eac h of whic h ,

ar e arran ged can n o n s m ortars h owitzers a m m u , , ,

n i ti on waggo n s pon toon bridges horse harn ess

- - -
, , ,

r opes bellows &c ; i n a word all ki n ds of m ili

, , . ,

tary stores an d all i n the best order The s upe

,
.

rior work m an shi p of the can n o n s the can n o n car ,

-

r i a e s an d th e a m m un itio n waggo n s delighted u s -

g
.
,
,

I n the upper story we saw sta n d O f arm s ,

1 06 TH E I N S T I T UT I O N F OR O R PH A NS

l
.

so m e of which were of m oderate an d others ofverv

'

i nferior qu ality The arse n al is capable of con tai n

.
:

i ng or eve n an d it is so m eti m e s

l
l e d I n som e parts of the secon d story we als o
.

l
re m arked a n u m ber of sm all cann o n s on their car
r ia e s
g , which rathe r s u rprised u s
'

till we were ,

show n an i n cli n ed plai n for their asce n t .

We n ext visited the I n sti t uti on j

l
b r t he M a e

O r p hans of S o di er s which a dj oi n s th e arse n al

, .

The n u m ber of boys i n it am o u n ted to 1 8 00 an d ,

al m ost all of the m we saw had a sq u alid sickly ap

p e ar an c e Diseases
. of th e eyes a n d of the sca
p
were very p r evale n t am o n g the m ; bes id es n o ,

less than 3 02 of their n u m ber were patie n ts i n t h e

m ilitary hospital : stro n g proofs of so m e great de fect
i n the m a n age m e n t O f th e charity which excited ou r ,

e n q u iries Dam p beds or rather woode nplatfo rm s

.
,

l
placed agai n st dam p walls i n a ki n d of barrack

wan t ofproper beds dirt in ess an d a decie n cy of p ro

, ,

e r food were the c au ses a s sig n ed by an O fce r of

p ,

high ran k for th e dis tressi n g state of this i n stitu tion .

The m an age m e n t on y a fe w weeks ago had b ee n

, ,

gi v e n to n e w ban ds an d an i m m ediate i m prov em e n t

,

of the whole establish m e n t was i n c on te m platio n .

The orp h an s ar e here ta ught rea d i n g writing arith , ,

m et i c an d geo m etry u po n the L an casteria n Sy ste m

, , ,

w hic h see m ed to o u rish They are ed u cated so

.

as to qu ali fy the m for the d u ties of u n der O fc e r s -

,

clerks &c i n the regu lar arm y

, . Ge n eral Arak .

t c h e f; who had acco m pa n ied u s to the ar s e n al on

,
 TH E P E T C H I
I R SK O I M ON A S TE R Y . 1 07

e n teri n g th e g arde n of the O rphan I n stitu tion was ,

sal ute d by a n u m e r o us ban d of m u sician s co m pose d ,

o f t he oldest p u pils w h o per for m ed re m arkably

,

well .

Withi n the preci n cts of the fortress are also s i t u

ated the co m m issariat the co m m an dan t s ho u se ,
,

th e ba r racks of the gar r iso n n um ero u s m ilitary ,

m agazi n e s a fe w e d ices occ upied by m ilitary

,
,

l
an d ci v il o fcers so m e ch urches an d the r e
, ,

n ow n e d m o n astery of Pe t c hr s k A m o n g th e .

ch u rches the m ost re m arkable is that of Sain t

,

Nicholas , b u ilt u po n a hill n ear the ban ks of the

Dn p e r an d ov er the grave of O sk o d by order ,

l
o f the pri n cess O lga a fter th e recepti on o f Chris

t i an it y
, a n d that of the Tra n sg urati on erected

by Sai n t V ladi m ir bu t i n wh at year or on what

, ,

occasio n is u n k n own
, .

The P e t ck e r s coi m on as t ery with t he cathed r al

of the Ass u m ptio n so m e other ch u rches a pri n t
, ,

i ng o fce th e ho u se of th e m etropolita n of Ki ef
,
.

an d the h o u ses of the m o n ks are s u rro un ded by a ,

high sto n e w all with towers at its corn ers ike a ,

fortress . Th e cathedral was fo un ded by A n to n i u s

an d T h e od osi u s i n 1 0 7 3 bu t havi n g bee n fre qu e n tly
,

re n ewed i t n ow rese m bles the cathedral of Mosco w

,
a
.

! ts se v e n golde n d om es with those of the other ,

ch urches an d that of th e bel fry which towers

, ,

above the hill to the height of abo u t 8 00 feet ,

an d above t h e Dn p e r to that of 5 8 6 have a ,

sple n did e ffect an d rivet the atte nti on The bel fry
,
.
 TH E PE T C H IZR S K O I M ON A ST E R Y .

is reck on ed by the R u ssian s a c hef of d aeuvr e
architect u re Its u n der story is i n r u stic the
.
,

l
seco n d is adorn ed by thirty t w o D oric col u m n s -
,

the third by sixtee n of the Io n ic order an d the ,

fo u r th by twe n ty fo u r pilasters arr an ged i n

-
,

l
threes of the Corin thian order It is the work
, .

m an ship of an Ita i a n architect To the cath edral .

belo n gs a library said to be rich i n m an u scripts

, ,

an d especially i n Greek o n es .

The Pe t c h r sk oi m on astery has bee n well de

l
scribed by Jam e s an d there fore I sh a l on ly s upply a
,

fe w partic ulars A fter its fo u n datio n i n the eleve n th

.

ce n tu ry it was called Pe t c hr sk oi b eca u se t he

, ,

m o n ks at rst i n h abited t w o cavern s w hic h th ey

for m ed i n t h e hil on which the m on astery has si n c e

l
bee n b uilt These cavern s are behi n d the m on astery
.
,

h ave a deep ravi n e betwee n t he m an d stretch toward ,

the Dn p e r They are s ubterran eo u s vau lted laby

l
.

r i n th s w i th di ffere n t bran che s n u m ero u s cells an d

, ,

chapels i n which repose th e u n corr upted r e i c k s

,

l
of sai n ts an d m artyrs
, an d holy m e n O n e of , .

the m is called the P e stc he r a B j

, i nay a the n ea r

,

c avern or that of A n to n i u s
, after the n am e of i t s ,

rst abbot w ho d i ed i n 1 07 3 ; th e other the P est

,

Dd n ay a the distan t cav er n or t hat of

c he m , ,

l
Theodos i u s fro m the n a m e of the seco n d abbot 1

.
,

P es tc her a , i n R u ss i an , m e an s a c ave n r ; h e n c e t he o rigi n

of t h e n a m e .

A sm a ll w ork by H e r bi n i u s e n t i tl ed R e ig i osce Ky ovi ens e

Cr yp tce (Je na , i i
c on t a n s v e w s of t h e se c av e n s . r

TH E P E T C H Is R sK o r M ON A STE R Y . 1 09

We were acco m pan ied by a m on k i n vis iti n g t h e

cataco m bs of K i ef The d ev otees there spen d .

ho u rs an d d ays an d weeks The bodies or rather

, , .
,

the form s of bodies ar e like E gyptian m u m m ies , ,

an d a r e a rra n ged i n the sides of the cavern s ,

i n the c h apels an d i n s m all cells , I f we m ay .

j u dge by the n um ero u s speci m e n s which w e saw

l
h ere al m ost all the s ai n ts are perso n s of low
,

s tat u re Their n am es ar e i n dicated by labels over

.

the cells or attached to the to m bs Their n u m ber

, .

a m o un ts to above 1 5 0 The i n sertion of their ap .

e at i on s an d disti n ctio n s wo u ld be equ ally u seless

p
t o the writer an d to the reader , The latter how .
,

l
e ver , sho uld he ever vis i t these far fam ed cavern s -
,

m ay be desi r o u s of havi n g a ge n eral acq u ai n tan ce

with his m iscellan eo u s society an d u n der this i m
pression I have draw n up the followi n g con cise
list I n the two caver n s are fou n d the r e i c k s
.

of ar chbishops bishops arch i m an drites h egum i ns

, , , ,

mo n ks a n c horite s deaco n s m i racle w orkers sai n ts

, , ,
-
, ,

m a rtyrs pri n ces pri n cesses physician s his t orian s

, , , , ,

l
s tewa rds bigots soldiers bakers (of bread for c on
, , ,

secration ) wafer m akers i m age pai n ters fast ob

,
-
,
-
,
-

ser vers an d grave diggers be si de s those of the

,
-

obedie n t the sile n t the patie n t the pe n ite n t the

, , , ,

u n e ttered the i n tellige n t the pen etrati n g the

, , ,

ven erable the disi n terested the active an d the la

, , ,

bor i ou s an d of twelve m aso n s who b u ilt the cathe

,

dral Here are also show n a great n um b e r of

.
 1 10 TH E PE T C H R s K O I M ON A ST E R Y .

l
O DO R I F E ROU S HE AD S an d o n e of the childre n wh i ch

was m u rdered by Herod s or d ers an d bro u ght fro m

Jer usale m I n the c athedral is likewise preserved

the head of the Great D uke V lad i m i r .

W e were a co n te n ted with ha v i n g exam i ne d

the ca v er n of A n to n i us an d had n ot the least
,

desire to m ake our respects to that of Theodosi u s .

Havi n g e nj oyed a n e View fro m a balcon y at the ,

lower extre m ity of the labyri n th reco m pe n sed the ,

m o n k a n d t h e people i n atte n da n ce an d left ou r ,

c h ari ty i n the chapels we m ade our way back

,

thro ugh a lo n g covered woode n gall ery i n which ,

were asse m bled the poor an d the la m e an d t he , ,

bli n d seeki n g al m s
, .

The s ub u rb of the fortress as i t is called is of , ,

con siderable exte n t It co n tai n s the a dm in i st r a

.

t i on of t he g ove r n m e n t an edice o f two stories

i n height over a high base m e n t an d ador n ed by
, ,

a ight of steps six Doric col u mn s an d a pedi

, ,

m e n t with the i m perial ar m s the sa m e as m ay be ,

l
re m arked all over the e m pire i n the crown bu ild -

i n gs Here was also the i m perial palace a woode n

.
,

str uct u re which was b u r n ed i n 1 80 9 ; its fo un datio n

,

an d w i ngs alo n e re m ai n ; O n on e side of these we

fo u n d a delight f ul bou e var d ; on the other the i m
perial garde n s high a n d low wh i c h are j oi n ed
, ,

together by terraces an d ights of stairs The y .

for m t h e fashio n able pro m e n ade i n the ev e m ng ,

an d fe w s ots Can be m ore cha r m i n g

p .
 TH E M IL I T AR Y H O SP I T AL TH E TH E A TR E 111

l
.

We m ade a visit to the m ilitary hospital at so m e ,

distan ce fro m the m on astery It co n sists of fou r .

woode n edices on e story high i n whic h ev e ry

,

l
thi n g is well arran ged Th e n um be r of sick i n a
.

am o u n ted t o 7 3 5

I n the traveller s ra m bles i n K i ef t h e shell of a ,

large woode n theatre on the le ft of the road which

leads to the Pod e catches his eye fro m its ,

gloo m y desolate appearan ce an d s u rprises by the ,

wan t of foresight i n those who plan n ed an d s uper

i nten ded its erectio n It stan ds u pon an elevated
.

ll
hill extre m ely di fc u lt of access ; an d yet this
,

forc i ble obj ectio n was n ot perce i ved till the e d i c e '

was roofed
. The work was i m m ediately i n ter
.

r u ted an d the whole property is to be sold I

p n

, .

th e m ea n ti m e a s m al b u ildi n g which stan ds at the ,

j u n ct u re of the roads fro m O d Ki ef an d P od ole ,

ser v es as a te m porary theatre i n which a R u ssian ,

troop of actors perfor m d uri n g w i n ter .

The priso n or ostrog a n eat s m all edice an d

, , ,

l l

the Ho u se for I n valids of Pri n ce Pr osr ovsk i i ,

of co n siderable size are both sit u ated n ear the

,

barr i er of the r oad whic h leads to the sou th an d

l
deserve a v is it .

O d Ki ef is sit u ated u po n an other hil betwee n

the division of Pe t c h r sk an d the Pod ole bu t m ore ,

to th e east Its fortication s are n ow i n r ui n s It

. .

c an sca r cely be s aid to have on e reg u a r street ;

an d but for the ch u rches an d the m o n asteries of ,

wh i ch I h ave Spoke n at le ngth in a d i ssertati o n

H Q OLD K i EF TH E P on oLE.

l
.

u pon t h e arc h itectu re of R u s sia i t s boasted

l
S ple n do u r is co m pletely faded .

Fro m the Pe t c h r sk oi q uarter to the Pod ole the

r oad leads dow n the side of a very steep hill It .

has bee n m u c h i m proved of ate years bu t still it ,

e xplai n s why we see a the dr oshhi s for hire at

Kiet, with a co uple of h orses as they are co n ti n u ,

a lly asce n di n g an d desce n d i n g this m o u n ta i n On .

l
the right i n a pretty an d ro m an tic spot is elevated
, i ,

the K r est chzi t i h a lofty col u m n s u r m o u n ted by a

,

cross of which Jam es has g iv e n a plate It was

, .

l l
b ui lt o ver a fou n tai n where the childre n of the ,

Great D uke V ladi m ir Sv i atos af were baptised .

O n t h e le ft we were str u ck by the si n g u lar s i t u
,

a tio n of n u m er ous s m all ho u ses alo n g the brow of

the h i l overlooki n g the Pod e The d ifc ulty of .

a ccess an d the wa n t of water

, we shou ld have ,

th ou ght wo uld have deterred an y i n divid u al fro m

c hoosi n g s u ch a spot for the site of h i s dwelli n g .

The s tr eets i n the Podole are n ot very reg ular an d ,

fe w of the ho u se s ar e good ; the w oo d e n ban k of

t h e r i ver is fall in g i n to decay an d the whole has a ,

m ean a ppea ran ce It is partly i n u n dated d urin g

.

the spri n g ood of the Dn p e r I n th e river a

- .

reat m a n y at botto m e d barge s were lyi n g an d

g
-
,

Charac t e r i of A pp di x
t he I dditi
R us s t an s , en . n a on o

l
wh t i a id f t h t ith h r h I m y r m rk th t K r m z i
s sa o e e -c u c , a e a , a a a n,

d e diti
'

i th
n e s e c on of hi hi to y hon d d d ot t o th
s s r , as a e n es e

form r ight ol m
e e m o g whi ch i
v u gi
e s, r e p r t ti o
a n s ve n a e sen a n

of th i e riptio p t he slabs allude d t o but which un

nsc n u on , ,

u k ily i s
c ot i t elligibl e
, n n .
 C O NC L USI O N

l 13

l
.

l
t he q u ay wh i le it a fforded so m e p e asm g vi e w s
, ,

also exhib i ted the o n ly sce n e of great activ ity an d

i n d ustry w hich had m e t ou r n ot ice i n Ki ef Th e
, .

Po d e is cro w ded wit h ch u rc hes an d m o n asteries ,

an d also co n tai n s the acade m y the Sp i r i t u al schoo , ,

a n d the post O ffi ce - .

O f Ki ef as a whole it m ay be said t hat th e

, , ,

streets are excessively irreg ular an d for the m ost ,

part u n pav ed or bOar d e d over A fe w Of the m

,

have bad woode n trottoirs I n i t are recko n ed .

thi rty two ch u rches besides those at the co n ve n ts

-
,

n ow , a s there are n e arly a doze n m o n asteries an d

n un n eries at each of which are t w o three or m ore

, , ,

ch u rches we probably u n der rate the s um total of

, , ,
-

places of worship at eighty It is s upposed to .

l
co n tai n a bo u t 4000 ho u ses excl u si v e of v ariou s ,

m a n u factories Its i n ter n al appearan ce ill cor

.

l
respon ds with the ideas of m ag n ice n ce which i t s ,

approach had i n spire d I n 1 8 1 3 an d 1 8 Q3 i t s .

,

pop ulatio n is sta ted by V s vo oj ski i at but

m y e n qu ir i es lead m e to do ubt wh ether it be n ot
overrated at Q0 000 so u s am o n g which are a great
, ,

l l
m an y Jews a fe w Poles an d so m e L ittle R u ssian s
, ,

bu t the m ass of i ts i n habitan ts are real R u ss i an s .

l l
O n the 2 1 st A pril we le ft K i ef The co un try .

d u ri n g the rst statio n to V eta an d half O f the ,

seco n d t o V assi k of is hilly bleak an d u n p easan t , , ,

an d freq u e n tly covered wit h u n derwood : fe w corn

e d s are to be see n an d the soil is c ayey an d ,

s an dy . I n m an y places the road r un s thro ugh deep

V OL . I . I
 l
1 1 41 V A s si L K O F .

san d bu t an excelle n t an d rich loam ass u m es a

,

black appearan ce n ear V as si k of, a s m all town ,

w hic h lies u po n the riv u let St u n a thirty v e versts j ,

-

fro m K i et; part of whic h is elevated an d p i c t u r ;

esqu e Before the u n io n of the Polish provi n ces
.

to R u ssia it was a fro n ti er town i t i s n ow th e

,

l
chief town of a district t o wh i ch i t le n ds its n am e .

I n speaki n g of tow n s however i n m ost parts of, ,

R u ss i a it is n ecessary to cau t i on the reader n ot t o

,

be dece i ved an d to expect m ore tha n really ex i sts

, ,

as m an y of the m are but villages V assi k of i s an .

i n stan ce i n poi n t ; for thoug h a district tow n i t s

, ,

pop ulation does n ot exceed 2 5 00 so uls an d I h ave ,

b een i n form ed th at it scarcely co n tain s a s i n gle

m erchan t u n less we call petty dea
, lers by that
n am e .

l
We m e t with an u n look ed for deten tion here - .

'
We had a si n gle p odor cyn for si x horses three ,

for each equ ipage tho u gh we always took eight

, ,

a n d paid for the whole of the m O n prese n ti n g .

ou r order t o th e u n co u th s m ot r it e he said there ,

l
were n o hor se s A fter I had exam i n ed the table
.

an d fo u n d t he n u m ber of h orses kept at the statio n ,

a n d the n u m ber o ut accordi n g to the book i n which

the p od or j

n e s a r e re istere d I threate n ed to e n te r
g ,

a r eport i n the comp ain t book whe n he withou t

a pology for his lie or the least cere m on y wished
, ,

to p u t s ic hor ses i n each equ ipage becau se the ,

r oad was bad I explai n ed the attem pt at i m po

.

siti o u to the party an d asked i f they wished to see

,
s w e r e d i n the afr m ative
l l
A N E CD O TE

h i s c ha racter a litt e m ore d eveloped Bei ng an

t he s m ot r it e w as tol d

that h e m ight p u t twe n ty horses i n eac h equ ipage

z
,
.

.
1 15

i f he like d bu t that he wo u ld o n ly b e paid for

,

eig ht ; t hat was for two horses m ore than ou r

p od or j n ordered Bu t he an swered if we di d
.
,

l
n ot ta k e s i x horses for eac h carriage an d pay for
'

t he m he wo u ld g i ve six hors es an d p u t th e m all

, ,

i n on e carriage prete n di n g that he w as a uthorised

to do so I had satised m ysel f that by t h e r e
.
, ,

u at i on s for the s u m m er sea so n we were n ot

g ,

n ecessitated to take m ore than fo u r horses for each

c arriage an d req u ested they m ight be give n i m

,

m ediately O n his n on co m plian ce we we n t to the

.
-

Gor odn itchii s house an d were l u cky e n o ugh t o , _

l
n d hi m at ho m e H avi n g heard ou r co m plain t

.
,

h e i n stan tly acco m pan ied u s to the post ho u s e O n - .

the way thither he spoke of the s m all reve n u es of

his ofce there be i n g sc arcely an y m e r c han t s i n the '

town stated that he had a large fam i y an d added

, ,

that h e was i n a c on sump ti on I replied that n o .

, ,

d o ubt he wo u ld be bet t er i n a l arger tow n as t h e

, ,

m erc h an ts m ade large a n n ual prese n ts to perso n s of

his ran k ; I hoped he wo u ld always n d e n o ugh for
the s u pport of his fam ily an d said that as I w as ,

a physician an d had a m ed i ci n e chest with m e

, ,

I sho uld be h appy to gi v e hi m advice an d re m edies

gratis I the n began to q u estion h i m serio usly as
.

to the sym pto m s wh i ch he h ad of co n s um ption ,

w he n he e x clai m e d Ah ! Doctor you m istake

,

,

I Q
1 16 A NE CD O TE :

m e ; my disease iv k ar m an )
is (T c hi c h t k a

a ,

ll
c on s um t i on i n my p oc k e t
p every where a pre

vale n t epide m i c At th e post ho use a lon g.

-

explan ation an d a m u si n g farce took place ; t he .

Gor od nit c hi i s colded an d ordered horses t o be ,

l
given ; the sm otr ite was bo d an d de fe n ded his ,

co n d uct Un der prete n ce of than ki n g the O fcer

.

for h is tro uble I n ow shook han d s an d le ft a ve

, .
,

l
r o uble n ote with hi m wh i ch had the desired e ffect , .

H e sal i ed ou t threaten ed v iole n tly bra n dished

, ,

h i s stick an d i n a fe w m i n u tes the horses were

,

h ar n essed an d w e were i n m otio n

, It is tr u e that .

the sm ot r ite rece i ved n othi n g u n less he shared i n

l
the bribe an d reven ge m ight have bee n grati
e d but we were detai n ed two ho u rs while a m u ch
, ,

s m aller s u m tha n a v e ro u ble n ote gi v e n i n ti m e -

, ,

wo u ld have proc ured horses Th u s a traveller .

, ,

who co m plai n s of a sm otr it e to the police m aster ,

-
,

l
i n a large tow n or i n a co u n try to w n to the
,
-
,

Gor odn itc hi i m ay so m etim es get i n stan t redress

, ,

bu t freq u e n tly the re m edy is as bad as the disease ,

an d i n deed o ft e n worse,
A s m all bribe will ge n e .

rally satis fy the sm ot r ite an d proc u re horses ,

ll
w hereas a larger reward is n ecessary for the police

m aster or the Gor oa n it chi i who m ay have assisted
, ,

i n settl in g a disp u te

We travelled all n ight The road fro m Karap .

i shi i s hilly with i m m e n se corn e d s on eac h side ;

,
-

the soil is a n e black m o u ld Nu m ero us s m al ~

.

woo ds an d t all scattered trees re n der the sce n ery

, ,
 l
l

B OG H O S L A V L E .
K O R 5 IJN . 1 17

very pleasi ng The three rst statio n s fro m Ki ef

.

t o Gr ebe n k i c ost eigh t kope c k s per verst for each

l
horse the r e st t o U m an o n ly ve B gh os av e
,

is a s m all m ean district tow n w hich has always ,

belon ged to the pri n cipality of Ki ef an d whose ,

pop u latio n i s c hiey Jewish It is s urrou n ded by

v
.

w ood s risi n g i n a m phitheatre an d c u t ivated elds , .

The r ive r Rossa whic h has n um ero u s m as se s of

,

ra n ite lyi n g i n i t s co u rse ows thro u gh it an d

g , ,

its ban ks prese n t those ro m an ti c featu res wh i ch are

c om m o n i n Britain but are rarely to be see n i n
,

R u ssi a except i n the Cau c as u s an d Siberia Par t

, .

O f this tow n belo n gs to the crow n an d Co u n tess ,

Br an i t sk ii has large p ossessio n s i n its v ici n ity

l l
.

Fro m Moskal en k i the sce n ery i s vari ed an d v ery ,

n e to K or sf m a s m all v illage i n a beau ti fu l sit u

,

atio n an d s u rro un ded by a del ightfu l cou n try

,
.

Betwee n K or sf m an d O lsh an a the soil i s extre m ely ,

fertile : pastu res cor n e d s woods an d s m al

,
-
,

lakes wi th a fe w scatter ed v illages were see n i n

, ,

s u ccessio n The road is broad an d excelle n t an d

.
,

we travelled at full gallop the drivers of the two

carr i ages raci n g agai n st on e an other I n on e O f .

t h ese races w e m e t a herd of oxe n an d were i n ,

the m idst of the m before the coach m en had power

to check the speed of their h orses O ne of t hese .

an i m als fell bu t the horse with which it had

,

com e i n co n tact leapt o v er it an d we co n ti n u ed ,

ou r j o ur n ey l u ck ily w i tho u t i nj u ry to any of th e m

,

or to o u rselv e s The sight Of si x oxe n an d three

.
,

 1 18 Z V E N I O OR O DK A .

pe rson s e m p loyed here for ea c h pl ou gh str uck u s

forcibly Betwee n this an d t h e follo wi n g statio n

.
,

i n n u m erable trees whic h had lost thei r t om an d

, ,

other s wh i ch were witheri n g ca ught th e eye a n d

, ,

appeared to hav e s uffered fro m lightn i n g O lsh an a .

i s a v i llage of c o n siderable size but w ith little t o ,

attract atte n tio n except a li n e of a bo ut twe n ty

,

n eat w hi t e w a sh e d cottages
a
separated fro m each
,

other , an d eac h with its garde n The lively ap .

a r an c e of this part of the village is greatly di

p e

m i n ished by the v ici n ity O f two old gloo m y w oode n

ch u rches s u ch as are very co m m on i n the Ukra i n e
, .

The style of their arch i te c t u re is exactly t he sa m e

l
as that which prevails i n R u ssia Proper .

W e h ad n ow got fairly i n t o that part of th e

R u ss ian e m pire which i s chiey peopled by Jew s
a n d Poles Both speak the R uss 1 an I n har m on i
.

ous an d i n correctly ; an d the Jews ha v e a j argo n

y
co m posed of Polish R u ss i an an d G er m a n i n
, , ,

l
w hic h they address foreign ers o f all n atio n s

A rapid drive thro ugh a charm i n g co u n try

bro ught u s to Z ve n igorodka a s m all shabby dis ,

l
t r i c t to w n i n the gover n m e n t of Ki ef whic h lie s ,

u po n the r i v ulet G n i O i -T i k i t c h We fo un d the .

Jews had m ade a co n tract for the post horse s here -

,

a n d were deter m i n ed to m ai n tai n their characte r fo r

rog uery I n escap i ng fro m the R u ssian sm otr it e s

.
,

m ost O f who m are sco un drels bu t m an ageable by ,

bribery w e fo u nd o u rsel v es i n the han ds Of i m

,

ost or s who b e i n g propri et or s w e re exorb i ta n t i n

p , , ,
 RO G UE R Y OF TH E JE w s . 1 19

thei r de m an ds an d resol ute i n t he i r exaction

, .

Hav i n g d in ed i n this tow n an d still n d i n g th at ,

they m ade false prete n ces an d evas i on s an d would ,

n e i the r i ve u s post horses n or co m po un d u po n

-
g ,

reaso n able term s to give an y horses we agai n h ad ,

r eco u rse to the Gor odn itc hii He w as ki n d e n ou gh .

t o se nd a soldier with o r ders acco m pan ied by a

m e n ace t o these co n tractors

, The m an date w as .

obeyed , the post-h orses were harn essed an d w e ,

agai n p u rs u ed ou r ro u te .

Al m ost all the Jews we had see n i n the co u rse

l
,

O f our j o u r n ey except at Ki ef; exhibited a pict ure

,

l
of great degradatio n wretched n ess an d i m p osI
, ,

ti o n . Baro n Sacke n Com m a n der i n chief of the

,
- -

st R u ssian ar m y i n a letter to Pri n ce D V

, . , .

Gal itsi n Govern or ge n eral of Moscow dated

,
-
,

M obi e f; 1 2 th April 1 8 2 2 after n otici ng the n a ,

tu re O f the co u n try i n White R u ssia an d the ,

e n cou rage m en t it holds out to agric ult ural i m

prove m e n t with equ al freedom an d tr uth rem arks
, ,

that the peasan ts with their whole fam ili e s al m ost

, ,

con ti n u a y beg al m s u po n the r oad ; an d that all

occ u pation con sists i n the distillation of spirits ,

whic h is i n the han ds of the Jews i n the han ds

of a people w h o to the disgrace O f h u m a n ity live

, , ,

i n i dle n ess i n rogu ery an d i n

, , This de
scripti on of the Jews m ay b e well applied to their

J ournal of the A gric ult ural Soc ie ty of Mosc ow . NO I V 1 8 22

. . .

I 4
 l
1 20 DI S T I L L E R IE S .

brethre n who m the gover n m e n ts of Ki et;

w e saw i n
K he r s n Yek at e r i n os af an d the K r i m e a
, , .

Si n ce the crow n h as m o n opolized the sale of

s pir i ts thro ugho u t th e E u ropea n d om i n io n s of the

e m p i re
, the Jews as well as all others are obl iged ,

l
t o fu rn is h fro m each d ist illery a certai n q u an tity
of a give n stre n gth at a xed pri ce to the i m
, ,

m e n se p ublic d e p Ot s or m agazi n es There fore the

.

m ore spirits s old the greater i s the a d v an t age t o '

ll
the govern m e n t But the i mm or a an d wretched
.

policy of raisi n g a reven u e fro m the v i ce an d at ,

the e x p e n c e of the h ealth an d lives of the p easa n ts ,

who are the ch i e f co n s u m ers O f the spirits their ,

n ectar vodt k i, c an n e v e r be s u fc i e n t co n de m n e d
y .

The gover n m e n t m ay prete n d that by m on op o i s

i ng the sale of spirits it is i n te n ded to furn ish the
,

booij s with a good article at the sa m e price as they

h ad form erly p ai d for an ad ulter ated an d deleter -

i ou s u id prod u ced by i n divid u al distillers S O far

, .

the i n te n tio n i s excelle n t bu t it is a n otorio u s fact

l l
that n o i m pro v e m e n t of the spi rits has res ulted
fro m the m eas u re I n deed as Capt Cochra n e has
.
, .

j u stly re m arked i n his n arr ative of an exte n sive

,

jo ur n ey i n R u ssia an d Siberia by far m i n g the di s

,

t i e r i e s a syste m of pl un der is practic a l y e n co n

,

raged ; while the losers i n the lo n g r u n are the

poor peasan try , who rec e ive a trash of spirit far ,

below the proo f it bei n g , do ubly an d trebly

w atered . The sam e a uthor well explai n s the de
gradi n g syste m O f frau d which i s c arried on be
 C OL O N I Z A T I O N OF TH E JE WS . 1 21

t wee n the v i ce gover n ors of the provi n ces the

-
,

fa r mer ge n erals an d their clerks all of whose

-
,

l

i m m e n se s ubd u ction s ar e paid by n e w addition s
o f water to the spirit which is val u ed to the de

c e i v e d peasan ts as g en ui ne .

As the Jews do n ot possess lan d som e of the m ,

p u rchase the prod u ce of the soil parti c ular y ,

w heat fro m the proprietors an d tran sport it t o

, ,

O d essa an d other ports of the Black Sea Bu t .

w here v er we m e t t h e m with a fe w exceptio n s they, ,

presen ted the appearan ce already described an d ,

bore the sam e characte r .

I n deed d uri n g ou r v isit to th e s outh O f R u s

,

l
sia e v ery where we heard heavy com plai n ts with
,

respect t o their i m position an d their m o n opoly ,

of e v ery protable e m ploym e n t From vario us .

r u m ou rs it was evide n t that so m e great revo

u t i on i n their fate was approachi n g Di ffere n t .

i n d iv i d uals spoke of the colo n isatio n of the

Jews but n o n e of the m see m ed to k n ow what
,

was m ean t by these words an d all were an xio u s to ,

receive i n form ation The m ystery is a t le n gth

.

u n veiled i n an i m peri al an d irresistible m a n date

, .

By an u kciz of the e m peror of R u ssia dated W ar .

,

saw A ugu st 2 9 1 8 2 4 all Jews who are n ot physi

,
.
,

e ia u s or established m erchan ts are ordered by the , ,

year 1 8 2 5 to re n o u n ce the petty com m erce they

,
.

h aVe h i t h e r to carried on trades &c

'
an d to r e , , .
,

t urn to the occ upati on of their an cestors that i s ,

1 22 TH E JE WS .
w
S I N G UL A R C U S TO M .

to s ay to till the gro un d F or this p u rpose the

,

.
,

ov e rn m e n t w i ll assig n the m la n d s i n the t e m

g
perat e cli mate of E u ropean R u ss i a provide the m ,

w ith every thi n g n ecessary to co m m e n c e thei r

.

agric ultu ral p u rs u its an d fo un d the m ne w s ettle,

m e n ts ; besides it will exe m pt the m fro m taxes for

s o m e years i f they co n for m t o the s upre m e will
,

l
o f his Maj esty O n the other han d t hey h ave n o
.
,

altern ative ex c ept to ui t R u ssi a an d Polan d As

, q .

w as n at u rally t o be e xpecte d the p u blicatio n of ,

ll
l

this uha z has cau sed great con ster n ation am o n g
t h en u m ero u s Jewish p op iI at i on .

Not to sp eak of the n atives O f the co u n try R us ,

s ian s, L ittle R u ssia n s an d Poles three great , ,

classes of co on ies W there fore be e stabl ished i n

, ,

the sou ther n provi n ces of the R u ssian e m pire viz , .

Ger m an colo n ies Jewish colon ies an d Military

, ,

c olo n ies O f w h i ch we shall speak hereafter It

, .

s ee m s n atural to expect so m e stran ge res u lt before a ,

o n g peri o d revolve fro m this heteroge n eo u s asse m

,

blage The crown i n on e poi n t however appears

.
, ,

to con s ult the tru e i n terests of the state i n en dea .

,

v ou ri n g to e xte n d an d i m prove the c u lt i vatio n of

her m ost fertile possessio n s .

I n travell in g i n the so u th of R u ssia th e atte n ,

tion I S attracted by a si n g ular practi ce which pre

vails am on g the Jews Attached to high poles .
,

an d exte n di n g i n vario u s directio n s a c r oss th e

.

streets of t he to wn s an d villages w h i c h they i n

 UM A N . 1 23

hab it are seen m an y cords co nnecti n g as it

, ,

w ere the hou ses with each othe r As lon g .
,
,

s aid our Jewish host as these stri n gs are s ee n

,

Stretched betwee n the di ffere n t poles it i s per m it ,

ted to have free i n terco urse wi th ou r n eighbo u rs ;

but w he n they are take n down o n the sabbath for ,

i n stan ce a Jew is forbidde n i n case he qu its his

, ,

o w n ho u se to carry an y thi n g lo ose abo u t his per

,

son ; i n his pocket m u st be fo u n d n either s n uff

box n or ha n dkerchie f .

The authority for t his stran ge c u sto m i s said to ,

l l
be deri v ed fro m the Tal m u d .

l
We t ra velled i n the n ight thro ugh n e an d fe r
tile districts which however were n either e n li
, , ,

v e n ed by co u n try seats n or by large or o u rishi n g

-

vi l ages We passed throu gh Ye k at e r i n op e a

.
,

s m al t ow n upon the ban ks O f the G n i laya an d at ,

8 o clock i n t he m or n i n g of t h e 2 3 d of Apri l
.reached U m an by a level an d m ost e x celle n t
,

road All our acqu ain tan ces at Ki ef spoke of So

.

p hi vk a adj oi
,
n i n g to U m an as on e of the O b ects , j
m ost worthy of a visit an d of the m ilitary colo n ies ,

at V oz n es en sk as very i n teresti n g for the stran ger s
,

exam i n atio n W e th ere fore followed the ro u te

.

w h i ch led to these places .

U m an or H um a n as it is O fte n written i n for m er

, ,

l
t i m es was a place of co n siderable i m portan ce
,

d u ri n g the al m ost co n ti n u al wars betwee n the Tar

M ac m i c hae

s J ourn e y , &c . p . 467 .

1 24< II M A N .

tars of the K r i m e a the Poles an d th e R u ss i an s,

, ,

as well as on acco u n t of its vici n i ty to the Z ap or

gian K oz ak s I n the year 1 65 5 the khan Maho

.
, ,

m e d adva n ced w i th a chose n ar m y an d j oi n ed

,

Pot tsk i i the Polish ge n eral an d their co m b i n ed

, ,

forces bes i eged U m an wh i ch was de fe n ded by

three ra m parts an d m en Th e Poles r e .

garded this town as the b ulwark of the K oz ak s an d ,

d esired its fall an d the Tartars wo u ld gladly have

,

rased it to the gro u n d beca u se it was a great i m

,

pedi m e n t to their i n c u rs i o n s i n to Pola n d The .

ll
attack was terrible an d the rst ram part was car
,

r ied ; bu t the besieged ha v i n g d i scovered t hei r

errors i n the precedi n g m an oeu vres took fresh ,
)

co u rage an d n e w m eas ures an d the Tar tars wer e , ,

rep ulsed i n the fo ow m g assaul ts .

l
U m an received its ap pe l ati on fro m the rive r
u po n which it lies It n ow form s a district town
. ,

the gov ern m e n t of Ki ef an d by our ro u te i s

'

, , ,

3 0 2 v ersts dista n t fro m the tow n of Ki ef It for

'

m erly belo n ged to the late Co u n t Pot Ot sk i i a Po i sh ,

n oble m a n well k n own for his e n co u rage m en t of

,

literatu re an d sc i en ce It i s a paltry an d m i ser

. a

able town ; an d thou gh it co n tain s a nu m ber of

,

ch u rches m ost of the m are very i n differe n t an d

, ,

all i n wan t of repair A s an O fce r re m arked the

.
,

i n habitan ts do n ot b u ild good ho us es here m ore ,

than i n m an y other town s of the e m pire ; be

cau se said he
, we get possessio n O f all the best
,

by be i ng quartered i n Th er e i s n ot a si ngle
 UM A N
'

. 1 25

ed i ce w orth n otice i n U m an an d the d welli ng of ,

the late Co un t Pot Ot sk ii is s m all an d of a very plai n

a ppeara n ce ; i n deed it is m ore like a cotta e tha n a
g

l
palace The pop u latio n O f Um an has bee n r e cko n ed
.

a t fro m 300 to 5 00 so u ls chiey Jews so m e Poles , , ,

a n d a fe w R u ssia n s Pot t sk i i s gy m n asi u m clai m s
.

a tte n tio n It was erected by the late Co u n t for

.

the chi d re n of red u ced Polish n obles A h u n dred .

are fe d clothed an d ed u cated by the i n terest O f

, ,

fun ds left on p u rpose an d 3 60 receive their e du ca

,

l
tio n gratis A n u m ber of regi m e n ts are station ed
.

i n a n d n ear U m a n ; an d a m ilitary L an casteria n

s chool i s i n stit u ted for the ed u catio n of the soldier s

c hildre n A s m all E x er c ise house for the m ilitary

.
-

is i kewise fo u n d here T he pr iso n s were extre m ely

.

d irty ill reg u lated an d i n great wa n t of v e n til

,
-
,

a tio n they wer e m ore like an abode for dogs than

h u m a n bei n gs .

l
U m an was cro w ded with people on our arrival ,

an d we lear n ed that there was a great fair We .

took up our lodgi n gs at an i n n kept by a Je w an d , ,

to p r eve n t ou rsel ves bei n g i m posed upo n xed the ,

price for the day Pri n ce Serge V o c h nsk i i who

. ,

was statio n ed here wi th his regi m e n t an d to whom ,

'

we had se n t the letters received at Ki ef called ,

u po n u s i n v ited u s to di n n er an d walked with u s ,

,

to she w the tow n He gave u s an excellen t di nn er

. ,

i n a n eat white washed cottage an d e n tertai n ed u s

-
,

m u ch by his i n tellige n t co n versati o n He Spoke .

w ith e n th us i as m O f the cl i m ate an d co un try of the

1 26 S O PH I EV K A .

sou th of the R ussian e m pire i n c om par i s on of t he ,

n eighbo urhood of Petersb u rgh where he had passe d ,

l
m u c h of his li fe a n d where al m ost all his relatio n s
,
,

reside A fter treati n g us w

. i th the greatest hospi .

l
tality an d atte n tion he furn i shed us w i th letters
,

for Co u n t an d Co u n tes s d e W itt at V o z n es en sk

, ,

a n d als o for Colo ne l T e r p e v sk ii at K on stan t i ,

n ovka an d as s i sted u s i n m aki n g a co n tract w i th

,

the Jews t o carry us t o B gh op O e with t w elve ,

h o r ses at the r ate of n o less than twelve k op e e k s

,

l
e r verst for each hors e
p .

W e m ade a v i sit to Sop hi e v k a the chief Obj ect ,

of atte n ti o n at U m an This place m ay b e said t o

.

have bee n form ed by C oun t Pot t sk i i w ho was ex ,

t r e m e y rich It i s r eported that he had

"

peasan ts bes i des m on ey an d m oveable pr operty

, .

At his death a n um ber of years ago he left an i m

m e n se fortu n e The Co u n tess w as on e of those
.

ro m an tic characters who se beau ty charm s an d

, , ,

coqu etry gai n ed m an y ad m irers an d led to a great

, ,

varie t y i n li fe It i s related that am o n g t he wom e n

.
,

w ho had resorte d to the co u rt of Catheri n e was a

Grec i an lady already fam o u s Madam e de W itt
, , ,

w h o was beloved by Pr i n ce Potym k i n

. an d ,

see m ed l ikely t o s natch him away fro m the crowd

l
O f b e a u t i es who were co n te n di n f r his favo u rs
g o .

F ro m h i s parti al i ty for her the pri n ce gave the go

,

v e r n m e n t of K h e r s n to her h u sban d Colo n el de ,

Witt Thi s did n ot preve n t Madam e de Witt be

.

i n g guilty O f so m e i n de i ti e s to t he am oro u s pri n ce .

 C ou NTE s s P O T OT s I . 1 27

l
U n der prete n ce of m aki n g a visit t o her m other ,

who was a poor trades wo m an at the seraglio she-

,

we n t to Co n stan ti n ople w ith the Co u n tess de M n i s

t c h e k a n d there Choise u l Goufe r gave her od
,
g
i ngs i n the Hotel de Fran ce A ft er the death of .

Potym k i n Madam e de Witt for a while followed

, , ,
.

the fortun e of Co un t Feli x Pot t sk i i but at the ,

s olicitatio n of his lady the Co u n tess the E m press ,

cau sed her to b e sh u t u p i n a c on ve n t .

F

Fro m the above relation it appears pretty clear , ,

that Colon el de Witt was rewarded by Pri n ce Pot

l
y m k i

n for h i s wi fe s i n delity ; or it m igh t be ,

sa i d wi th greater propri ety as has O fte n hap ,

pen ed i n R u ssia h e tacitly con n ived at her asso

,

c i at i on w i t h the pri n ce an d reaped the wages O f

,

l
her i n iqu i ty Hen ce w e c an easi y c on ceive the
.

tru th or at least the probability of the report

, , ,

that Co u n t Pot t sk ii absol u tely bo ught Madam e

de Witt fr o m her h u sban d an d gave an i m m e n se ,

su m for his p u rchase This la dy however i n o si n g

. ,

on e h u sban d sec u red an other ; for

, tho ugh it i s ,

reported that Co u n t Pot t sk ii e nj oyed her favo urs ,

prev i ou s to m arriage an d that she bore hi m chil

,

dr e n yet he acted m ost hon ou rably i n m aki n g her

,

his Co un tess an d i n proc u ri n g an i m perial orde r

,

by w hich their childr en were legiti m atised .

l
The followi n g c urio u s an ecdote is well k n own .

W he n Is m ail had bee n besieged by the R ussian s

L fei of C atherin e II . vo . iii p

. . 1 56 .
1 28 C ou NTE ss P O T OT S KI I .

for seve n m o n ths Potym k i n began to gro w ,

i m patie n t tho ugh livi ng i n the cam p, i n t h e

,

m idst O f l ux u ry an d s u rro un ded by a crowd of

,

c o u rtiers an d wo m e n who e m ployed e very e ffor t ,

t o a m u se hi m Madam e de Witt on e O f th ese fe

.
,

m ales prete n d i n g t o read the de crees of fate i n a

,

pack of car ds presaged that he wo uld take the

,

town at t he e n d O f three weeks Pri n ce Poty m k i n .

s m ili n g a n swered that he had a m eth od of div i n

, ,

ation far m ore i n fallible an d that i n stan t se n t his ,

orders to S uv ar of to take I s m ail with i n three days .

l
The brav e but barbaro u s he r o; obeye d his or
,

d ers to the letter an d a fter a dr e adfu l sla u ghter

, , ,

s u cceeded i n m aki n g hi m sel f m aste r of t he

town .

Co u n tes s PotOt ski i was a wel k n ow n charac

ter i n R u ssia d u ri n g a; lon g seri es of years
, ,

l
an d w a s a t co m peer for Catheri n e i n the

c ar eer of vol upt u o u s n ess an d liberti n is m Bu t .

riches frequ e n tly bli n d poets i m parti n g the l u stre ,

o f virt u es whic h were n ever possessed a n d thro w ,

i n g a vei over faili n gs vices an d wicked n ess , , .

B ut however they m ay i m pose u po n the m selves

,
!
,

the p ublic will n ot b e dece i ved The Polish poet .

,

T r e m bsk ii m ight si n g the char m s of Sop hi vk a

, ,

a n d the virt u es of Co un tess Pot tsk ii i n e n cha n t ,

l
i n g v erse an d by his co n d esce n sio n attery an d
, , ,

assid u ity obtai n the protecti o n of his heroi n e bu t

, ,

4
Vi de L i f e o f C atherin e II . vo . iii pp
. . 1 6 1 2 82
. .
 S O PH I V K A . 1 99

l
in so doi ng be co n de m n ed his work s to an e ph e m e
,

l
ral existe n ce .

The Co u n tess passed m u ch of her ti m e at Peters

b urgh an d at Sop hi vk a bu t he r favo u rite reside n ce
,

was at T u t c hi n i n the gover n m en t of Pod olia an d

, ,

n ea r Br at s f where she had a palace an d m agn i

,

l
ce n t garde n s worthy of a s overeig n an d where she
, ,

lived w i th tr uly royal sple n dour I n Ja m es s .

Jo u rn al of his Tra v els i n Germ any &c a frien d of , .

h i s has give n a very a m u si n g an d i n teresti n g

a cco un t of a vis i t to T u t c bi n i n the year 1 8 06 , ,

a fter the death of C o u n t Pot tsk ii He spe ak s of .

the ai r of fe u dal state whic h there reign ed an d ,

see m s to thi nk that the c um brou s m agn icen ce ,

an d oste n tat i o u s hospitality of Mosco w was r e , ,

placed by elegan ce an d gran de u r of a m ore si m ple

an d m ore n at u ral k i n d ; bu t here as is but too ,

evide n t sple n do u r an d m ea nn ess were also po wer

,

f ully c on t r ast e d

The n eighbo u rhood of U m an seem ed s o desti

t ute of wood an d ro m an tic beauty that we cou ld ,

l
n ot co n ceive where S op hi vk a was sit uated On .

ou r approach to it a woody dell open ed to View

, ,

w hich we a fterwards fo u n d to be the garde n s ,

ador n ed by broad walks terraces s um m er-ho uses , , ,

parterres an d stat u es with a chan n el between hil s

, ,

covered with i m m e n se m asses of tran sported rock ,

ov er which at ti m es roll foam i ng cascades

, ,
.

J ourn al of a T our i G erm a y

n n , &c . p . 495 .

V OL . I.

1 30 TH E POL I SH POE T T R E M B Ii S K i I .

In al m ost u n b oun ded at co u n try devoid

an ,

of the wild n ess th e gran de u r an d the s ubli m ity

, ,

of n at u ral sce n ery we n eed n ot be s u rprised that

,

the R u ssian s an d the Poles spoke of Sop hi vk a

, ,

as an e n chan ted place an d as a rari ty i n the lan d

,

l
of t h e Scla v o n i ans Tho ugh highly pleased still
.
,

l
we felt great d isappoi n t m e n t O ur expectati on s .

had bee n raised too high by the acco u n ts of ou r

frie n ds as well as by the poe m p ublished by
,

T r e m b sk ii u n der the n a m e
, S ap k i v ca an d ,

the v i ews it con tain s The gard e n s are n ot arge

.

e n ough t o have an y gran de u r abo u t the m ; th e

cascade s are o n ly see n whe n a sl uice is open ed
an d ad m i ts the water fro m a s uperior d am ; a n d,

however w ell art m ay i m itate she c an n e v er equ al ,

the delicacy the harm on y, an d the m aj esty of

, ,

n at u ral sce n ery Still it m u st be allowed that

.
, ,

Sop hi vk a is a char m i n g spot ; an d the e ffect of

the scen ery co m bi n ed with the m u s i c of a m ilitary
,

ban d an d the still n ess of a delightful even i n g l ulled ,

ou r feeli n gs i n to harm o n io u s repose .

Sop hi vk a w as a t reside n ce for a co n tem plative

poet s u ch as T r e m bsk ii who here passed the m a
, ,

t u rer years of his life i n the con te m platio n of

h u m an ex i sten ce an d its i m m u tability i n an after
,

state e m bodyi n g the res ults of his thoughts i n t e n

,
,

l
ll
der an d owi n g verse charm s i n a high degre e
pec u liar to his fasci n ati n g poetry These s ub .

Vi d e L ette r s , L i t er a r y an d P o i ti c a , on P o a n d , &c E d. i n~
 TH E PO L I SH P OE T T R EM B f
i SK I I 1 31

l
.

j
e c ts for m
the chie f the m e of the poe m So
h
p i vk a wh i ch was tran slated i n to F re n ch by

the Cou n t de la Garde sple n didly pri n ted at ,

Hom e wi th the Pol i sh origi n al an d e m be li she d ,

wi th i m posi ng views of the garden s The e arly .

years of T r e m b sk ii w ere p asse d i n activity an d ,

ad ulatio n of the great on who m he lavished un ,

m er i ted prai ses clothed i n the garb of har m o n i o us

,

a n d e n chan ti n g verse Pla ced by fort un e beyond

.

t he reach of poverty an d s u rro un ded by sc en ery ,

c o n ge n ial to the pass i o n s of hi s he art it m ight ,

have bee n expected that he was a h appy m an ;

bu t wit h hi m as w i th m a ny others sple n di d
, , ,

tale n ts ac u te feeli ngs an d a m orbid con stituti o n

, , ,

w ere assoc i ated together T he last stage of hi s .

li fe w as characterised by m i sa nthropy an d solitary

retire m e n t H i s o n ly c om pan ion was a Koz ak
.

boy with who m he played at c hess or was cheere d

, ,

by his s o n gs acco m pan i e d with the m us i c of a

,

t or ban a sort of a n c i e n t Pol i s h i n str um e n t like a

,

u itar D uri n g s u m m er i n th e r o o m where h e

g .
,

live d swallows an d sparrows b uilt their n ests un

,

d istu rbed an d t h ei r hospitable host i s sai d to have

,

k n own the ge n ealogy of h i s feathered i n m ates

l ll
.

rh
bu g , 1 82 3 This i s a i t e re sti g w ork a d though p ub
. n n n , n ,

y ly i s w ell k ow t o be t h e c om p osit i o of
'

i sh e d an on m ou s ,
n n n

Mr L ach S y m a a ge t e m a w h o d oe ho our t o t he la d
. z r ,
n n

s n n

w hi c h g a e h i m birth a d whi c h h e i s w e ll qh a ie d t o de s cr ibe

v ,
n ,

w e re b be y on d t h e li m i t s of d e p ot is m
e s .

K Q
l
l l
SQ K H O L O V i N SK A .

In con cl u s i on it m ay be re m arked that Cou n tes s

,

Pot t sk i i died ately wh ile travell i n g i n Po an d or

,

Germ an y and the property she le ft becom es the

,

portio n of t w o son s an d two daughters .

Wh en we were ready to set off fro m U m an th e ,

h or se s w e r e n ot se n t accord i n g t o a gree m e n t an d ,

I was obliged t o go an d n d the m They were .

the n p u t to the carriages but their proprietor r e ,

fu sed to let the m go away un less he had his

~

fare be fore h an d Havi n g see n e n o ugh of Jewi sh

.

rogu ery w e decli n ed givi n g the w hole bu t o ffered ,

l
J

a p ar t of the m on ey He wo uld n ot r ecei ve it

.
,

the horses were take n fro m the carriages an d se n t ,

h om e . Havi n g had a letter for the Gor od n itc kii ,

l
a Greek lon g dom iciliated i n R u ssia we had be ,

co m e acqu ai n ted with hi m an d n ow tho ugh ate , ,

i n the e v e n i n g I we n t t o h i s ho u se an d m ade a
, ,

co m plai n t again st th e Jew A n i mperiou s order .

was sen t i m m ediate y to harn es s the horse s whic h ,

w as rel u cta n tly co m plied with an d at m i d-n ight ,

w e left the tow n We travelled all n i ght an d on

.
,

the m orn i n g of t he 2 4 th April arrived at Kholo

vi n ska a distan ce of n early forty versts T h e
,

.

l
ligh t of the m oon e n abled us to see the n atu re of
the co un try we were traversi n g w hi ch was varied ,

an d pretty bu t n ot so n e as that we had passed

,

throu gh t wo days before .

K h o ov i n sk a is really a w r e t c h e d village al m ost ,

e n tirely lled with Jews whose appeara n ce an d

tatter ed clothes betoke n ed i n dige n ce an d wan t I t .
 K H O L OV fN S K A . 1 33

w as our desig n t o rem ai n here o n ly to breakfast ,

but we were d etai n ed hal f a day by t he st upidity

l
o f a R u ssian s m i th who u n dertook to f aste n the
,

r i n g withi n the box of on e of the wheels of the

c alash whic h had got lo os e He took the wheel . ,

wi th hi m but i n stead of faste n i n g the ri n g h e

, ,

p o i e d it H e the n m ade a n e w ri ng which was

.

too s m all an d i n c utti n g the wood to a d m i t a

,

s eco n d he m ade t he op e n i n g by far t oo large

, .

The de fect be re m edi ed w i th tow an d m ade a ,

pas te of earth an d tar w i th which he lled up the

,

lll
i n tersti ces an d co vered all blem i shes We paid
, .

hi m for hi s tro uble an d l aughed heartily at the

,

i ng en ui ty of hi s i m pos iti o n at w h i ch the Jews ,

s ee m ed h ighly pleased .

So on afte r e av ing Kho ovi nsk a w e e n tered upon

a plai n , on wh i ch s c arcely a vi l age a t r ee an , ,

l
an i m al or a h um an bei n g was to be see n As
, .

we for esaw we had scarcely co m m e n ced the stage

,

before the sm ith s work m an ship gave way ; bu t

l
fortun ately this was of n o i m m ediate i m port
a n c e At so m e distan ce fro m B ghop oe by a
. ,

s u dde n spr i ng of the h orses i n crossi n g a ditch,

the pole of on e of t he c arri ages was broke n We ..

were n ear a vi l age an d se n t back a servant on

,

horseback to n d so m e k i n d of pole or piece of

wood wh i ch was p ur chased for ve roubles While
,
.

t he p ole w as arrang in g Co un t O z e r ov sk ii cam e up

,

with u s pol itely asked what acci de n t had oc

,

K 3
 l
1 34 A R R I VA L AT B GH O P L E .

cu rred the n e ntered i nto con versatio n an d n ished

, ,

l
by in viti n g u s to pass t he n ight i n the ho u s e of
'

'

Coun t e ss Pot t sk ii at B ghop e as n o good i n n s

or lodgi n gs w ere to be fou n d there A fter t r a

v ersin g about for ty versts of a s t ep co un try we

arri ved at Boghop e wer e k i n dly recei ved by the ,

Coun tes s s steward an d got tea an d s upper and a ,

com fortable lodgi n g for the n ight The steward .

appeared quite m aster of the place an d probably ,

be had m ore i n u e n ce th an h i s late e m ployer .

I n R u ssian Polan d as i n R u ssia Prope r the , ,

s tewards of the n obility freq u e n tly gai n a co m plete

asce n dan cy over thei r lords an d their prope r ty ;

an d con tri ve b y direct or i n d i rect m ea n s to sec u re
, ,

S tep , an d n ot s te e
pp , as t h e G erman s , t he Fre n ch , an d t h e

Bri t i sh g e erally p ell i t i s a ery e xp re s i R u i w ord d

n s , v s ve ss an , an

i diff r tly appli d

s e en I t oft e m e a im m
e . x t t of n an s n e n se e en

unc u lti at e d l d de oid of h bit atio

v an d t re v S h tp a ns an es . uc s e s

a e to b
r ee i m an y p rt s of t h e s o th f R
e s n n ia d i t h a u o u ss , an n e

l
K b m Th y a e g r lly l l o e rly d oft e

u z . e r ene a ee m e ve r n a s o, an n s

bo dle un b t th y are ot d e ert

ss, u t h c o tr ry m
e y of
n s s on e n a , an

th e m a o re d by a ri h oil p rod
re c ve mo t b d t r p c s , uc e s a un an c 0 s

of gr dass ,e e am ll d w i th t h
an ar hoi t t i t i t he
n e e e c ces n s n

ll
d i r it y of the ir w il d w e r
ve s whi h o ri h i t h pl i
o s, c a u s n e a ns

l
t ill t he h g of t h a c an wh
e th e y w i th r
e d d y
s e s on s , en e an eca ,

an d r w th e m
e ne l e by th ir s e d from y e r t o
se v s r e e s, a y ea , un

t ou he d by t h h
c d of m H w oft e , i t r er i g t h e
e an an . o n n av s n es

tp
s e h w tho ght o f th f e t d v th e ha f t ar d
s, av e e u e as s a n r e e s, -s ve

an im l of t h c r ti o w ld ha if t l oo m o g their
a s e ea n ou ve e se a n

a b d t h rb g
un an O the r t p
e a rly b rr
e . d lik d s e s ar e n e a a e n , an e e

se rt wi th t t r
s pr e t bou dless urfac e of ari d sa d
ou e es, es n a n s n ,

as i t h sca e ar A s tr cha
se n e a n.
 R US SI AN ST E WA R D S . 1 35

their ow n fortu n e eve n should they keep their

places but for a short ti m e .

I have stated i n an other work that the stewards

, ,

of the R u ssian n ob ility for the m ost part ar e a , ,

l
s e t of m e n u n worthy the n am e of m e n of

v illai n s an d of robbers i n n o degree behin d the ,

m erchan ts i n t h eir pro n e n ess to deceit while they ,

are eq ually destitute of vi rtu e equ ally voi d of ,

s ham e , eq u ally gi ve n to corr uptio n an d equ a ly ,

depraved i n m oral s They seldo m fail to e n rich .

them sel ves an d it ofte n happe n s that while their ,

lords an d m asters co m e to poverty an d s tarvation

l l
,

l
they are e njoyi n g th em selves i n revelry the so n g , ,

an d the dan ce I have also said that to pro ,

c u re a good an d hon est an d clever steward i n

, , ,

R u ss i a i s a m att er of i n n ite difc ulty hen ce an

,

adage B uy n ot a vi ag e but buy a stewar d for

, ,

y o u r se As th i n gs are at prese n t by far the ,

greatest par t of stewards u pon n ob e m en s estate s
are the i r own slaves an d are gen erally very corrupt ,

i n the i r m orals Som e of the richer n obles have

.

free s t ewards an d m ost of the m are great villai n s

,

a fe w ,
however are rep uted for their ho n esty an d
,

good con du ct r The sam e rem arks m ight per
.

,

h aps be applied to the Pol i sh stewards w i th a

, ,

slight shade of differen ce i n their favou r It m u st .

n ot b e u n derstood however that I m ean th i s di

, ,

Charac t er of t he

R ussi an s , &c . p . x xn.

1 I bid p 5 5 0
~
. . .
1 36 R US S I AN S TE WA R DS .

t skii s

r e ssw n as a ce n s u re u po n Co u n tess Pot o
g
steward who on the co n trary bore an excelle n t
, , ,

character .

The R u ssian n obility are n ot ign oran t of the

i n fa m ou s an d exte n s i ve i nj u stice they s uffer at the
h an ds of their stewards Man y cases have occ u rred
.

i n wh i ch the relati o n s or frie n ds of a n oble m a n

h ave po i n ted out n u m ero u s palpable i n stan ces
i n w h i c h he h ad bee n grossly cheated But the .

ge neral an swer is I am well aware that m y

,

s teward dece i ves m e an d cheats m e i n ki n d an d i n

,

m o n ey an d i s beco m i n g rich by his n efari o u s c on

,

d u ct ; but what c an I do For the sam e reaso n s I

h ave r epeat e dly chan ged m y steward s an d fo u n d ,

every on e as bad or w orse than an other ; an d to

, ,

sa
y the tr u th the
, prese n t is m ore m oderate i n h i s

i m positio n s than h i s predecessors I m ay d i scharge .

hi m to day an d have a worse to-m orrow an d be

-
, ,

sides s uffer all the disadvan tages whic h every s u c h

chan ge n ecessarily i n c u rs A fe w an ec d otes w ill
.

te n d to ill u strate these state m e n ts .

l
Whe n the late Co un t P at f was i n for m ed by

l
h i s relati o n s that his stewards received greater
reve n u es tha n he hi m sel f an d ope n ly acqu ired ,

con siderable property he an swered the m w ith ,

i i n a R u ss i an proverb :
san
gf r o d , E ve r
y i me

t r ee i s n ot i n a i n e You thi n k I do n ot see
.

I see all ; by who m i f n ot by u s c an they e n rich

, ,

the m sel ves ? I am co n te n t : let the m alo n e an d ,

t hey shall be co n te n t an d s hall beco m e r i ch for

,
 ( y
m doves are happy an tra n q u il
A n oble m a n with who m I l i v ed as physicia n
,
R US SI

their pai n s provided m y peasa nts m y g o i i btchi /cs

)
,

d

AN S TE WA R D S

,
.

.
l 1 37

for a short ti m e an d who had the fasci n ati n g art ,

of i n d u ci n g perso n s wherever h e resid ed to give , ,

h i m cred i t eve n whe n he was well k n own to be

,

a bad payer at le n gth lost his character both

, ,

i n the capitals an d eve n i n so m e s m all town s ex

, ,

c ept am o n g stran gers I n a d i stri ct tow n he was .

i n debt to all the pri n c i pal m ercha n ts n ot on e of ,

who m wo u ld se n d thei r wares to h i s excelle n cy

u po n cred i t Bu t stran ge to tell they wo uld all
.
, ,

g i v e cred i t to a co n s i derable am o u n t to h i s stewa r d ,

who was his slave I have k n ow n tea an d s ugar .

refused to the m aster but se n t to his estate i m ,

m ed i ately whe n the steward p u t his Sig n at u re to a

ll
s crap of paper the co n te n ts of wh i ch i m plied that
,

h e bo un d h i m sel f perso n ally to m ake good their

paym e n t .

I n the year 1 8 1 5 I arrived at A v t c hur i n i n the , ,

govern m e n t of K a i I ga with Mr Po t ar at sk i i This . .

n oble m an m a n y years ago had m ade on e of his

, ,

S laves who had bee n ed u cated on p u rpose his

, ,

steward upo n that estate H e behaved so i n

,
.

fam o u sly an d was g u ilty of s u ch rog uery that his

, ,

m aster d isplaced hi m red u ced hi m to h i s for m er

l
,

con diti o n an d as a peasan t he agai n was e m

,

ployed By h i s s ub m i ssio n assid uity an d appare n t

.
, ,

Jis i Pod
h vi i
g ; or , L fei an d C om bats of C oun t P at f,
p art iii p 42
.

. .
p
l
l
1 38

c on t

i
iti on
sh e d

s w eari n g
his m i n an d
R U S SI

afte r two or three years he acco m

,

rede pt o Mr P
AN

upo n

i n fut u re to be faith fu l an d h o n est re

, ,
S TE

his
,
WA R D S .

.
,

,
a

i n stated hi m as steward of the V i llage For a .

s hort ti m e h e acted properly but afterwards was ,

l
g uilty of m ost p r o igat e an d agran t acts of di s i

ho n esty O n th e aftern oon of the day of our

.

arri val he m ade repeated co ur teo u s v i sits an d

,

w as well rece i ved ; hi s m aste r gave n ot t he Sl ight

est i n d i cati on of disp e as u re or of an y k n ow ,

ledge of his false co n d u ct an d breac h of h i s

oath : little was dream ed of what was appr oach

l
i ng. Mr P so m e week s ago had se n t a p eor
. .
, ,

o ffi cer t o res i de i n his ho u se at A vt c h r i n an d t o ,

be u se ful i n an y c apacity H e w as a spiri ted .

youn g m an an d agreeably to the plan co n certed

l
, ,

betw ee n Mr P an d hi m sel f he prepared a c oup e

. .
,

of b un dles of rods (calle d i n R u ss bat ji ) an d ,

l
the n st at on e d t w o stro n g m e n i n a roo m i n on e ,

of the w i n gs of t h e h ou se who m he i n str u cted i n ,

the part they were to exec u te The steward w ho .

,

w as loiteri n g at h i s ease i n his ow n ho u se was se n t ,

for t o co m e an d speak to Mr Po t ar at sk ii H e s oo n . . .

reached the ho use but w as told to go to the wi n g, .

H e haste n ed th i ther an d was s o m ewh at sur pri se d,

at his e n tran ce i n stead of h i s m aster to m eet th e

, ,

o fcer w ho preten ded he had so m ethi n g to say

,
.

to hi m i n an ot her roo m wh i ch they both e n tere d , .

The o fcer then pere m ptorily ordered hi m to p u ll

off his clothe s an d i n sta n tly the m en stood ready
,
 RE C R UI T or TH E ARM Y 1 39

l
.

with the bat gf i T he steward de m u rred an d m ade

'

an e ffort to escape bu t he was overpowered his

, ,

c l oth es were tor n off hi m an d he receive d a severe ,

age at i on . I m u st con fess I was n ot at all sorry

at hi s p un i sh m e n t for he richly deserved it ; but
,

th i s m ode of chastis i n g a steward an d the artful ,

m an oe uvres of Mr P to acco m plish it both s u r

. .
,

prised an d a m u sed m e His m aster did n ot dis .

place hi m but t hr e at e
, that for his n ext o ffe n ce ,

the strokes wo uld be i n icted with greater seve

rity or that he wo uld give hi m away for a soldier
l
, ,

the m ost se vg rg p un i shm e n t in u ss 1 a ; per aps

a w u a ~

g
,

eve n m ore dreaded than a trip to Siberia becau s e

the peasan ts k n ow what is a soldier s li fe bu t fe w ,

ret ur n to carry tidin gs fro m the m i n es of the east .

Yet it has bee n said tho u gh the r e c 1 u1 t 1 n of o

the R uss i an ar m y is n ot by vol un teer e n gage m e n t

tho ugh the m agistrates select the m ost e fcien t
yo un g m e n accordi n g to th e requ ired n um ber
,

l
a n d tho ug h the day of n om i n ation is passed i n

ge n eral grie f, an d each fam ily is i n u n affected

af ictio n at the approachi n g separation of a son or

a broth er t hat n o soo n er is the h ead of the

r e u ctan t c o n scr i pt shaved accordi n g to m ilitary ,

habit ; n o soo n er is be recogn ised as a de fe n der o f

his co un try than the plai n ts an d lam e n tation s cease
, ,

an d all his relati o n s an d frie n ds pre s e n t articles of

dress or com fort to the n o lon ger rel u ctan t recr uit
that thei r rev el with the m u sic an d the dan ce

, ,

takes place un ti l t he m om e n t arri ves whe n he is to

,
 1 40 RE C R UI T or TH E AR M Y .

aban d on h i s n ative ho m e an d the a dored to m b of ,

his fathers an d that w ith cheers the etern al fare

,

well is m ut ually expressed an d the ex ulti n g sold ier ,

exten ds his regards to h i s cou n try an d devotes h i s ,

n e w life to the glory a n d prosperity of h i s s overe ig n

a n d R u ssia It is also added that th i s m oral
.
,

death th i s m ilitary resu sci tatio n i s a phe n o m e n o n

, ,

ge n erated an d perpet u ated by patri otis m the fun da ,

m e n tal pr i n c iple of R u ss i a n actio n whic h c h eers the ,

sold i er i n hardship an d an i m ates hi m i n danger
, .

Th i s i s a very lively an d ho n o u rable picture of

the e n thu s i asti c an d heroi c patriotis m of the R us
s ia n peasan ts an d of a h i gher degree of that v i rt u
, e ,

I fear th a , n i s likely to be fo un d i n a la n d of des

ot i s m an d vassalage eve n a m o n g m a n y of the

p ,

privileged ari stocracy Wh en a n e w levy of m e n .

takes place an d when every crow n village cor

,
-
,

or at e body or n oble m an r ece i ve s n o tice of the

p , ,

l l
q uota of recr ui ts to be furn i shed i f the peasan ts ,

k n ow of the bu s i n ess n oth i n g i s to be see n a m on g

,

the m but agitati on an d m i ser y A m o n g those t o

-
.

b e gi ve n away as sol diers t houg h at t im es de ter ,

l
m i ne d by ba ot are s u re to b e i n cl u ded all u seles s
,

perso n s all i n di vidu als who have g iven offen ce

i n a w ord as the R u ssian s express i t a m auvai s
, ,

The n obles wi th deep r egr et are ofte n

'

5 si g e s .

n ecessitated to part w i th m e n who are val uable t o

the m i n a d ou ble capac i ty : rst havi n g learn ed

Charac te r and C om p osi tion of t he R ussian A rm y , &c . p . 11 .

by Si 1 R W . il os n.
 RE C R UI T or

so m e pro fessio n or trade as c e rks m u sician s

tailor s coach m e n shoe m akers &c they are of
, ,
-
TH E A R M

,
l
Y .

.
,
1 41

l
great co n seq u e n ce to the m upon their estates as ,

they com m an d part of their labou r for n othi n g ,

an d sho uld they gran t the m a passport t o e n able

the m to e n gage i n b u si n ess for the m selves they ,

receive a large obr or or an n u al tax : an d secon dly

, , ,

beca use th e val u e of s u c h people whe n sold i s ,

do uble or treble that of a co m m o n peasan t The .

m asters threate n to sell these m a uvai s s uj e t s or to ,

give the m away as soldiers i f they do not m ake

a m e n ds for their bad co n d uct ; an d n ot u n fr e

qu e n tly the m e n ace is realised whe n least expected .

I k n ew a coach m an who was worth a tho u san d

,

ro ubles (abo u t 43 A at the prese n t rate of ex

,

chan ge ) who had o fte n bee n i n disgrace an d c on

n e m e n t for dr un ke nn ess an d the ft an d whose
, ,

m aster had i n vai n e n deavo u red to reclai m hi m ; !

he was s u dde n ly seized by the police his head w as ,

shaved an d he was tran sported to Moscow an d

, ,

l l
so rapidly tran s form ed i n to a s ol dier, that w h e n he
spoke to m e i n u n i form a short ti m e afterwards
, ,

I co uld scarcely recogn ise hi m Co n trary to t h e .

m ost li v ely part of the above descriptio n of Sir

R J Vi son I ha ve see n the recr u its u po n t e g as an d

,

sledges draw n at a sole m n pace an d s u rrou n ded

, ,

by their relatio n s an d frie n ds who bewailed thei r

fate i n the m ost lam e n table m an n er ; while they ,

dej ected an d absorbed i n grief sat like stat u es , ,

or lay exte n ded l ike corpses I n fact a strange r .

,
1 49 C O UNT O Z E R OV S K I I .

wo u ld ass u redly have i m agi n ed th at he saw a

f un eral processio n an d heard the la m en tation s rind
,

the wild shrieks which i n R u ssia are u ttered for

, , ,

l
the dead Nor i n deed wo u ld the m istake be gre at
.
, ,

accordi n g t o the ideas of the peasan ts w ho take ,

an everlasti n g farewell of their childre n brothers , ,

relatio n s an d fri e n ds an d co n sider their e n tra n ce

, ,

i n t o the arm y as their m or a dea t h They seldo m .

i n d ulge the hope of seei n g the m or of heari n g ,

fro m the m agai n especially i nt h e di st an t gover n

,
u

m e n ts of the e m p i re an d but too o fte n the i r a n ti

,

c i p at i on s prove correct F e w fu rlo ughs are gi v e n

.

to R uss i an sold i ers the distan ce fro m their hom es

,

re n deri n g visits i m possible ; an d seldo m c an a cor

respon de n ce be kept up by those who c an n eith er
read n or write an d who m u st t r u st to the precar iou s
,

c han ce of se n di n g verbal m essages The chan ce s of .

falli n g i n battle or by n at u ral death be fore the ex

, ,

i r at i on of twe n ty v e years servi t u de prese n t bu t
p -
,

a gloo m y an d do ubtful perspecti ve of the soldier s
e ver agai n beholdi n g his n ative ho m e an d j u stify ,

the grie f an d lam e n tati on of hi s fri e n ds .

We fo un d Cou n t O z e r v sk ii a si n gu lar perso n

age ; h e am u sed u s till m i d n ight by his an ecdotes , ,

l
h i s gri m aces an d his extravagan c i es
, A m on g .

ot her thi n gs he told u s t hat by the prese n t syste m

,

of m ilitary colo n isatio n i n thirty years R u ssia , ,

wo uld hav e six m ill i o n s of troops ; bu t to the qu es

tio n
, What wo u d she do w i th the m allowin g
 l
B OGH OP OL E . 1 43

the possibility of the case he co uld give n o satis

,

t i s fa c t or y an swer .

ll
B ghop e is a s m all town of an exceedi n gly
,

m ean appearan ce i n the go v er n m e n t of Pod olia

, .

It occ upies the an gle which is for m ed by the c on

l
ue n c e of the Si n yuc h a an d the Boog an d is i n ha
, ,

bited by Poles R u ssian s an d Jews O vi op oe

, , .
,

on the O pposite S ide of the Boog is a district tow n ,

i n the gover n m e n t of K h e r s n i n appearan ce a n d

,

pop ulation the co m pan io n of B gh 0 p o e It w as .

o n ce a fron tier to w n of T u rkey an d m arks the pro,

gress of i n c u rsio n m ade by her pote n t n eighbo ur ,

l
whose li m its are n ow beyon d Bessarabia
,
.

Ha vi n g break fasted with ou r host the Co un tess ,

Pot sk i i s ste w ard we began to co n sider how we
,

l
were to p u rs u e o ur ro u te By the road we had
.

ll
tak e n to Bogh op e our Jewish drivers recko n ed
,

the dista n ce n i n ety versts an d w ere paid for that

,

l
n u m ber tho u gh we were all co n vi n ced of their i m
,

position We sh o u d h ave been glad to have

crossed th e Boog to O vi op e an d to have pro .

c e e d e d by the p ost road to V oz n es en sk but we ,

c o u ld n ot get horses Nor co u ld we com e to any

.

agree m en t w i th the Jews of B ghop e Un der .

these circ um stan ces we were rel u ctan tly obliged t o

m ake o ffers to t h e i m postors who had carried u s
fro m U m an They had the effron tery to ask se v e n ty
.

s i x ro ubles to tran sport u s thirty three versts far ; -

ther ; an d after m uch bar gai n i n g w e w ere glad

, ,
~

to com ply wi th th i s exorb itan t de m an d The e x

-
.
.
 l
1 44 K on s T A N T fN O V K A

l
.

l l
p the
e r i e n c e of last two days m ade u s deter m i n e

n ever agai n to q u it the post road ; an d above a -

, ,

to avoid falli n g i n to the ha n ds of Jews Fro m .

l
B ghop e after cross i n g the Si nyuc ha by a good
, ,

ferry to Kh t a a trii ng village ; the road i s hi y

, ,

l
a n d passes ove r st ep s : the v i ews are bleak an d

dreary an d fe w v i llages are see n becau se t he v

, ,

chiey l i e i n h o bw s an d on the ban ks of the ri vers .

We passed thro u gh R om an ovka an d Z ve r n fva two ,

s m a l villages an d agai n reached th e Boog wh i ch

, ,

l
ll
w e crossed i n a ferry boat Havi n g traversed a hill
- .
,

rock -scen ery i n the co u rse of that river took u s

, ,

l
by s u rpri se an d prod u ced m ost pleasin g e m otion s
, ,

e nj oyi n g which we arrived before the hou se of Co

on e T e r p e v sk i i at Ko n stan ti n ovka the rst of
, ,

the m ilitary colo n i es i n this directio n It was for .

m er y a s m all an d sh abby village bu t i ts streets its

. , ,

ho u ses an d i ts garde n s w ere repaired an d i m

, ,

proved an d a n u m ber of n e w edices were erected

, ,

as co m m o di o u s stables for the horses of a w hole

reg im e n t a tolerable si zed woode n m ang e for
,

trai n in g the cav alry m agazi n es qu arters for the

, ,

o fcers besi des the cottage of their co m m a n der

, .

l
It was co n ve r ted i n to a m i li tary colo n y abo ut thre e

l
years ago an d has ever s i n ce bee n m ai n tai n ed i n
,

the best order .

We del ivered our letters of i n trod u ctio n an d ,

w ere very k i n dly rece i ved by Colo n el T e rp e v

sk ii an d his lady ; but as they on y sp ok e the
,

R u ssian lan g uage the pleas u re of thei r soc i ety

,
was l
obliged to act as i n terpreter The Situation of the

CA V A L R Y

great y d i m i n ished to our party ; an d I was

Colo n el s cottage with a garde n behi n d it exte n d

,
.
. 1 45

i ng to the ban ks of the Boog is very agreeable an d ,

r o m a n tic A fter walki n g i n th e garde n an d ad

.
,

l
m iri n g the bea uti fu l stallio n s wh i ch belo n ged to the

Colo n el who is an a m ate u r of horses as well as

, ,

others which were kep t for the stu d of the regi

m e n t di n n er was a n n o un ced
, A n u m ber of o ffi .

cers so m e of who m l u cki y spoke Fren ch partook

, ,

l
o f the excelle n t repast .

A fte r di n n er we were show n n early a h un dred of

.

the cavalry ho r ses wh i c h asto n ished u s by their

,

l
appear an ce size an d excelle n t con di tio n ; espe
, ,

c ia t h ose dest i n ed for t h e u n der ofc er s We -

y .

were still m ore aston ished on de m an di n g the val u e

of d iffe re n t horses that the an swer was al w ays t wo
,

hun dr e d r ou b es T he fact is that the crown on ly

.
,

allo w s two h un dred ro u bles for the p urchase of

each ho r se while so m e of those we saw had cost a
,

l
tho u san d : others were n ow val u ed at two thou
s an d roubles ; an d n ot on e had been bo ught for
less than two h u n dred roubles O n askin g who .

had s upplied the addition al m o n ey we we r e i n ,

for m ed that i t was Colon el T e r p e v sk ii ; an d the

m atter is easily explai n ed .

The an n u al pay of the colon els an d other

o fcers of the R u ssian arm y am oun ts to a m ere ,

trie ; yet m ost of the m whether they have ,

pri vate fortun e s or n ot s upport a high ran k i n ,

VOL I . . L
1 46 CA V A L R Y .

s oc i ety an d driv e their carriage s The fact is

,
,
,

that each regim e n t has an an n u al allowan ce m ade

for i t s s upport an d i t s wear an d tear t o u se a
, ,

vulgar expressio n Whe n c on tr a cts are m ade by

.

the colo n el or the o ffi cers they recei ve i n direct

, ,

prots when t hey ar e m ade by t h e gover n m e n t or ,

by the c om m an der i n c hie f at the head q u arter s of

- -
,
-

the rst seco n d or third arm y they have still opp or

,

, ,

t u n i t i e s of gai n an d i f they choose to gi v e false

,

reports as to the qu an tity an d qu ality of articles ,

w hich i s o fte n the case they acq u ire ha n dso m e ,

sum s . Cavalry regi m e n ts are partic ularly s ought

after by oi c e r s becau se n ot on ly c o n tracts for
, ,

the m e n bu t exte n sive co n tracts for the h orses

, ,

are m ade an d of co u rse their prots are greate r

, .

Besides this t hey have som eti m es an ho n ou rable

,

way of savin g a good deal of m on ey The colo n el .

ge n erally has the choice of taki n g the allowa n c e

for h i s regi m e n t i n m o n ey or i n ki n d Now whe n .
,

he happe n s to be statio n ed i n on e of the so u thern

gover n m e n ts of R u ssia where cor n an d hay are ,

ab u n da nt he takes his allowa n ce i n m o n ey m akes

, ,

the cheapest con tracts for n ecessary s upplies ,

an d p u ts the s u rpl u s i n to his pocket B ut agai n .

, ,

whe n he is can ton ed i n a gover n m e n t i n which

corn an d hay are dear he takes the m both i n ki n d , ,

an d preve n ts loss W ith these advan tages a

.
,

colo n el so m eti m e s e n riches hi m self an d ge n erally ,

sec u res at least a han dso m e co m pete n cy It doe s

, ,
.
,

however h appe n n ow an d the n that an ele v atio n

, ,
l
ll
C AVAL R Y . 1 47

to this ran k proves a m an s r ui n ; becau se a c o ,

on e on rec eivi n g a regi m e n t fro m h i s r e de c e s

,
p
sor i s ob ige d t o take its stoc k horses an d aceon
, , ,

t r e m e n t s at a xed price
, I f they fall below the.

val u e so m u ch the worse for hi m becau se good

, ,

horses an d good trappi n gs &c m ust be proc u red

, , .

by the ti m e his regi m e n t is exam i n ed or it m ay be ,

take n fro m hi m I f he be rich he c an afford to do

.
,

this ; bu t som e who were poor have shot the m

, , ,

sel v es i a despair of the r ui n which appeared i n e v i

table .

I n the spri ng of 1 8 2 1 whe n r u m o u rs of an i m m e

,

diate war bet w ee n T u rkey an d R u ssia spread on

every side an d whe n t he probability of s u ch an
,

e v e n t was greatly stren gthen ed by orders for dif

fere n t reg i m e n ts of i n fan try to be ready to m arch
i n six days an d for cavalry an d artillery regi m e n ts
,

to com plete their n um ber of horses withi n two

w eeks an o ffi cer who was statio n ed i n a provi n cial
, ,

town was thrown i n to a dread fu l pan ic O n e

,
.

eve n i ng I fo u n d hi m i n his garden stan di n g i m ,

m ovable as a statu e an d with a look of despair ,

.

At le n gth he retur n ed m y sal utation ; an d then said

he was ready to c ut his throat T e n days before .

this he had received orders to com plete a n u m ber

of horses by a give n short ti m e n o easy task

as the su m allowed by govern m e n t was totally i a

adequ ate to pro c u re su c h an i m als as were really r e
q u i si t e .Soldiers however were se
,
n t every w here ,
!

i nto the coun try an d n early the whol e n um ber of

,

L Q
l
1 48 CAVA L R Y .

h or s es w as bo ught at an extr avagan t pri ce every ,

on e of t h e m h av i n g co s t fty sixty or eighty

'

f
, ,

l l
r o ub e s m ore than the crow n allo w a n ce J u st as .

he w as abo u t to co n cl u de the bargai n for other si x

horse s still wan tin g a co m m un icatio n reache d hi m
, ,

l
l
i n w hic h he was told n ot to p u rchase an y He .

had n ow a the hors es to d i spose of wh i ch he as

,
,

s u red m e w ould cau se a great oss t o hi m sel f an d ,

n ot to the c row n
.
This w as the cau se of his m e
.

an c h o I e n co uraged hi m an d la ughi n gly said

y .
, ,

My good fr i en d what you lose to day you m ay

,
-

gai n to m o rr ow You k n ow t he ways an d m ean s

- .

l
by wh i ch that c an be do n e i n the R ussia n arm y
.

With a s m ile he si gn ied asse n t ; t he n th in kin g ,

for a m i n ute h e exclai med

, You are right I ,

shall thi n k n o m ore of the b u sin ess .

Colon el T e rp e vs k ii i s chie f of the 3 d regim e n t

of the cavalry of t h e B oog an d has 5 0 00 m e n , ,

b elo n gin g to the m ilitary col on ies un der hi s i n ,

s e c t i on
p O u r party had the c u rios i ty to b e prese n t
.

at a bapti s m i n his ho u se accordin g to the r ites of

,

l
the Greek ch urch at the co n cl u sio n of which an
, ,

ofcer w h o had bee n w i t h the ar m y i n Germ an y

,

an d Fran ce i n 1 8 1 9- 1 4 an d who had also visited

11 ,

l
Britai n very sag ac i ous y asked m e W het her t hey
, ,

l

bap ti se d c hi dr en bey on d t he fr ont i er s o
f R u s s i a 2

We were abo u t to start fro m Kon stan in ovka ,

whe n on e of the Jew ish drivers cam e up to u s

weepin g Abo ut hal f w ay fro m B ghop e on e
.
,
'

of his horse s see m ed i an d he tho u gh t it best t o

,

take it ou t of the carriage to bleed i t at the n ose ,

,
 A L E X AN D R O V K A . 1 49

by m ean s of
a p e n k n i fe an d to leave it i n charge
-
,

of a g u ide who m Co un tess Pot t sk ii s steward had

oblig i n gly s e n t wit h u s The Jew stated that .

,

an other m an who had been pass i ng by the sam e

r oa d h a d j u st got to Ko ns tan ti n ovka an d reported

that the horse was dead H e wept an d begged our .

p ec u n iary ass i stan ce S u specti n g that this was i n

.
,

l

the rst place a Jew s tri ck ; an d i n the secon d feel
, , ,

i ng little co m passio n i f the report were eve n tru e

, ,

for a m an w ho had s o grossly i m posed u pon u s ,

a n d a ls o k n owi n g that the old broke n-wi n ded

an i m al was of V ery l i ttle va u e whe n l i v i n g we d i s ,

m i sse d hi m with a ve ro u ble n ote - .

We had a m il itary post fro m Kon stan ti n ovka ,

i e horses belo n gi n g t o the colo n y at eight

. .
,

l
kope c ks per verst soldiers i n un ifor m for drivers
, ,

a n d soldiers for post ill i on s As eac h carri age had .

s i x ho r ses as the r oa d was s m ooth like a bowlin g

,

g r ee n an d as the drivers were m asters of their

,

l
a rt ,
we got on rapi d y t o Alex an drovk a an other ,

m il i tary statio n O u r ro ute was u p an d down hill

. ,

l
thro ugh a n aked dreary coun try on the exten sive ,

pastu res of wh i ch we re m ar ked m ore cattle graz i ng ,

than w e had see n betw ee n U m an an d B ghOp e .

The m o m e n t of our arr i val at the post ho use a m ili -

,

tary sm otr ite o rdered ou r h orses an d i n scribed our

an d by the ti m e we had walked abo u t t o

s e e the stat i o n the carri age s were ready for ou r

,

d eparture .

A er dn dr ovk d i s a s m all village ; it has bee n i m -

n

L 3

1 50 V O Z N E S RN S K .

p r oved i n the s am e m an n er as Ko n stan ti n ovka ; an d

had a clean n eat appearan ce m u ch en li v e n ed by ,

an i n closed squ are gree n co u rt i n which a s m all ,

ch u rch som ewhat awkwardly stan ds .

Fro m Alex an drovk a t o V oz n es en sk the road was

m u ch of the sam e kin d as that of the last statio n ;

l
an d the drivers bei ng equ ally ad roit we m ade ,

great speed an d arri ved there abou t 9 o clock i n
,

the even in g .

Voz n ese nsk wh ich lies u po n the Boog was a ,

very i n signican t town with S oho of i n its v i c m 1 ty , ,

an d received its n a m e i n t h e reign of Catha

r in e I on acco u n t of a ch u rch which was raised
.

l

by that sovereign s orders an d was dedi cated to ,

the Voz nese niy e or the Asce n sio n At a n e w , .

divi s i on of the R u ssian e m p r e I n 1 7 98 i t he ,

cam e the chief town of a go v ern m en t to which

it le n t its n am e an d wh i ch was afterwards abolish ed
, .

The follow i n g acco un t of it is give n by Castel n au .

W oz n e se n sk whic h ou ght to be the seat of a

,

gover nm en t is o n ly a chie f place of the K oz ak s of

,

the Boog : this little warlike tribe of Si x or seve n

tho u san d sou ls form s m an y regi m e n ts : they are the
re m ai n s of the Moldavian s an d the A r n aout s who
took arm s for R u ss i a i n the wars agai n st the T u rks .

They have the sam e m ilitary con sti tu tio n as the .

K oz ak s of the Don ; although they are co n d u cted

ll ll
by their A t amdn they are n evertheless un der the , , ,

orders of the gover n or of New R u ss i a

Vi d Ca t e e s n au s

E s sa i s ur

H i s t oi r e d e a Nouvell e R u s
s ie , v
o ii p 338
. . . .
 l
v oz n n s s SK . 151

V oz n es en sk is n ow on e of the largest of the

so uthern m ilitary colo nies an d is the head q u arters
,
-

of th e s t regi m e n t of the h u l an s of the Boog ;

i n deed t w o squ adro n s of this regi m e n t are here

colo n ised At prese n t it i s the reside n ce of Coun t
.

I van O si ovi t c h de Witt who is occ pied ar

( p ) u i n

l
l
ra ngi n g this colo ny an d i n trai n in g that regi m e n t
, ,

to serve a s m odels for other places He i nten ds .

s oo n to re m ove his head qu arters to E lizabet

-

grad a district town i n the sam e govern m e n t

, ,
'
which is chiey peopled by R as r o ni k s or Schis
m ati e s.

V oz n es en sk has of late bee n co m pletely m eta

m or p h ose d It n ow co n tain s a n u m ber of regular
.

an d w i de streets wh i ch are li n ed w i th n e w edi ces .

Al m ost all the old b u ildi n gs have bee n rep aired

an d white washed- . A te m porary woode n ridi n g
school ; a n e large n e w ston e rid in g school ; a -

school for the c an toni sts or yo un g soldiers c on

d u cte d upo n the L an casteri an syste m an other for
the fe m ale childre n u n der the direction of Cou n tess
de Witt ; m ilitary stores an d m agazi n es ; n u m ero u s .

ho u ses for the oi c e r s who reside here ; an d a m ili

tary hospital w ith an exte n si ve garden rou n d it ,

were all poi n ted out to ou r n otice Man y of these .

edices are constr ucted of li m eston e full of shells , ,

like that wh i ch we after w ards saw at O d essa an d ,

which aboun ds i n this n eighbou rh ood an d over a ,

con siderable exte n t of cou n try The date of the

.

con versio n of V oz n es en sk i n to a m il itary c olo ny is

L 4
1 52 M ILI T A RY C O L O N I Z A T I O N .

co m m e m orated by an i n scriptio n u pon a p ill ar op

osi t e t he school the 24 t h Dece m ber A D 1 8 1 7
p , , . .

a day wh i ch is an n ually re m e m bere d by the i n

habitan ts wi th deep regret an d lam e n tation .

A fter partak in g of an excelle n t d in n er w i th a

l

large party of o fcers at the Co u n tess de W i tt s , ,

we saw a nu m ber of the cavalry revi ewed i n

the man eg e an d a great m an y of the best horses ;

l
an d were afterwards co n d u cted to see a co m pan y

of 200 c an t on i st s exerc i se an d m an oeu vre As a .

the n ovel details of the syste m of m ilitary colo

n i s ati on are co n tai n ed i n a pam phlet lately ub
p
i sh e d I shall n ot e n ter deeply i n to the s ubj ect
,

l
her e I m ay however re m ark that the gran d

l
featu re of this syste m i s the organ i satio n of an

i m m e n se arm y from am o n g the crow n peasan ts -

,

lll
w h o are to be e m ployed i n agric ultu re i n ti m e
'

l
of peace an d to for m
, n ear y the whole of the

a n d force of the e m p i re i n ti m e of war ; i n fact ,

d u ri ng peace to have a r esi de nt say supp or t i ng

,
-

s o d i e r ag r i c u t ur a
- ar m
y or one at least w hich
, , ,

will cost the crown but i ttle except their arm s It .

has bee n r u m o u red of late that the plan was abo ut

to be aban do n ed ; but th i s is a m istake O n the c on .

t r ar y i t is n ot lo n g S i n ce a fresh a hda was i ss u ed

,

respecti n g th e organ is atio n of the colon i es ; an d the

w hole circle of Starob elsk wh i ch belo n ged to the ,

govern m en t of Vor onej

e 1 s i n corporated w i th the m
, .

Vide , A n A c c oun t of t h erg i atio A dm i i tratio

O an s n, n s n , an d

Pre s e nt St ate of t he Military C olonies i n R ussia 1 8 24 , .

 R A PI DI T Y or TR A VE L L I NG . 1 53

All be in g rea dy at on e o clock of the m or n
,

i n g of the 2 6th April we le ft V o z n es en sk for

'

O d essa a dista n ce of 1 2 5 versts

, The road was .

excelle n t an d while i n m otion we we n t on very

,

rapidly ; but we were detai n ed at the station s on ,

accou n t of the horses bei n g at so m e distance graz

i n g i n the s tep s a practice which is very co m m o n
,

i n the so u t h of R u ssia O n the arr i val of an eq u i .

page a m an i s se n t on horseback hal f a verst a

, ,

l
l
v erst , or eve n two versts an d drives ho m e the r e ,

u i si t e n u m ber However disagreeable the delay

q .

of an ho ur or e v e n two ho u rs m a be the travel

, y , ,

ler c an n d n o re m edy bu t patie n ce This is p .

c u i ar the case i n the gover n m e n t of the Ca u ca

y
su s. Whe n Co un t de Witt travels an avan t ,

c our i e r ge n erally prepares horses for hi m at every

statio n an d he proceeds with great rapidity ; he has

,

m ade the j o u r n ey fro m V oz n es en sk to O d essa i n

si x h ou rs an d repeatedly i n six ho u rs an d a h al f
, .

The lo n g con ti n u ed level roads thro ugh the step

-

l l
c oun t r y of R u ssia which i n dry weather are ,

s m ooth as a bowli n g gree n are very favo urable for -

,

rapid m otion ; an d at m an y of the station s excel

le n t h orses are kept A Fre n ch writer has said . ,

l
on c our r e a
p ost e en F r an ce et en A ng ete r r e,

m ai s en R ussi e which is really pretty

on

correct But the great i m pedi m e n ts to rap i d j our

.

n ies are the delays at the statio n s an d the c on ,

t i n u a di sm oun t i n g of the dri vers to adj u st th e

e

Voy age en Grim e &c pa J R e uilly p 1 5 Pari 1 806

,
. r .
, . . s, .
1 54

ll R A PI D I T Y or TR A V E L L I NG .

l
bad y arran ged hor s e h ar n e ss or ropes Co uri ers
a
.

who travel i n t e eg a s (as already re m arked the , ,

l ightest an d best adapted carri age i n R u ssia for

speed ake j o u rn eys the rapidity of w h i ch is a
) m ,

m ost i n credible Th u s they ofte n go fro m O d essa

.

to Petersb u rg h an d vi ce ver sa a distan ce of 1 8 7 6 ,

versts (1 2 5 1 m iles ) i n six or seve n days an d Mr .

Ye a m e s the Bri tish co n s ul t old u s that he o n ce ,

despatched a m esse n ger fro m O d essa to that capital

an d received an an swer i n thirte en days : A Mr .

Cle m e n t ass ured u s that he arriv ed at Mozd ok fro m

Petersb u rgh a distan ce of 2 425 versts (1 61 7 m iles )
,

l
e n c our i e r i n n i n e days Bu t whe n h e got to the
.

posth o u se he was u n able to m ove havi n g qu ite ,

lost the u se of his li m bs an d was carried i n to it ,

with his despatches A lo n g co n tinu ed R u ssian

.
-

bath ple n t ifu friction with birch bran ches an d

, ,

two days r epose howe v er restored hi m to his u s ual
health I have heard of m an y S i m ilar I n stan ces ;
.

bu t it is n ot o n ly i n t he so u th an d over level roads , ,

that en or m o us spe ed m ay be m ade By payi n g .

well the traveller if he n ds horses at the statio n s

, , ,

m ay do the sa m e al m ost every where i n R ussia ,

an d parti c ularly so betwee n Petersb u rgh an d Mos

c ow .L o n g ago Peter the Great m ade the j o u rn ey

betwee n these cap i tals d u ri n g w i n ter i n forty Si x
, ,
-

hou rs a j ou rn ey of 7 2 8 versts or n early 4 8 6 m iles .

When the town of Kherson w as e r e c ti n g Prin ce '

Pot y mk i n accelerated the works w i th i n cred ible .

activity an d was frequ en tly see n t o set out from

,
 R A PI D I T Y or TR A VE L L I NG . 1 55

Petersb u rgh y,
as it were to the ban ks of the ,

Dn p e r ; an d m ake his appeara n ce on those of the

N ev a i n less t i m e tha n wo uld be requ isite for an

,

ordi n ary m an to perfor m the j ou rn ey to

The E m peror Alexan der however has excelled all , ,

his predecessors i n the rapidity of his m otion s .

H e has ofte n er than o n ce travelled i n an open

Sledge an d i n severe weather fro m Petersb u rgh to
, ,

l l
Mosco w i n forty two ho u rs I believe those who
- .

acco m pan ied his Maj esty have n ot the least desire
for a rep et i tio n of the co m pli m e n t paid to them .

B ut i n deed i n R u ssia i t is q uite co m m o n to tra

, ,

ve above 2 00 m iles i n twe n ty fo u r ho u rs i n c u -

,

l
di n g n ot o n ly the stoppages at the Station s but ,

also the delays absol utely n ecessary for frequ en tly

adj u sti n g the horse harn ess or rather ropes : this
-
,

gi ves an average of abo u t eight an d on e third

m iles per ho u r ; so tha t all o st ti m e m u st be m ade

lll
u by gallopi n g at full speed as see n i n the rst an d
p
seco n d vign ettes .

Th e W hole tract bet w ee n V oz n es en sk an d O d essa

possesses little i n terest The co un try is for t he .
,

m ost part leve , but i n a fe w places hilly an d is

, ,

e n li ve n ed with fe w villages Abo ut twe n ty v e .

-

versts from O d essa corn e ds an d vi as dre w ou r

,
-

atte n tio n ; an d the n earer we approached it the ,

appearan ces of c u ltivation an d of pop ulatio n pro

l
portion ally i n creased T e n v ersts distan t we had
.

t he rst View of this tow n an d of the Black Sea ,

L if e of C atharin e I I . vo . iii p
. . 20 .
156

l O D ES S A

wi th a s m all iman or salt lake on the right This

-

li n e of road has j ust u n dergo n e a repai r ; an d on a

, .

l
c o n s i derable exte n t of i t alo n g both si d es
, an d at ,

s hort distan ces are erected large con e s of t urf

,
.

Near O d essa are si m ilar co n es b u ilt of ston e ,

plastered an d w h ite washed Worm s a s m all

- .
,

Germ an colon y an d Maloi Bu a sk wh i ch I s sad

, j ,

to con tai n m an y B u lgari an s but wh i ch we fo un d ,

chiey i n habite d by Jews on e of who m had c on

,

tracted for the post deserve n o fu rther n oti ce

, .

O ur road lay over bare rocks an d throu gh heavy ,

san ds rou n d the bay ; an d we e n tered the s ub u rbs

,

of O d essa thro ugh a row of col um n s which

, ,

for m ed the barrie r A Koz ak gu ard i s stati on ed

.
-

here who t ook our p odor bj

,
/
n an d after havi n g , ,

e n tered our n am es i n the reg i ste r ret ur n ed i t A , .

lo n g d ri ve throu gh the s ub u rb called P er sip , ,

brou ght u s to a pretty steep hill whic h we as ce n d ,

s

ed betwee n two col um n s Called the bar r I e r of

, ,

l
l
Khers on an d m ade our en tran ce i n to the town of
,

O d essa of wh i c h a represe n tat i on i s gi ve n i n the

,

Vign ette belon gi n g to this chapter There are .

fe w i n n s i n this town bu t we got well lodge d at

on e calle d the E ng ish C ub .
 CHAP . IV .

A CC O U NT OF THE R I SE G R E SS O F O DiaS S A O B S T A C L E S
A ND P R O

.

T o I T S I N C R E AS E I T S S I T U A T I O N A N D A R C H I TE C T U R E .

D E S C R I P T I O N O F OD ESSA . LI ME S T ONE PL A N T S
. .

P UB L I C G A R D E N S E N GL I S H CL UB L YC E UM S E M I NA
'

. . .

RIES FOR FE M AL E S . THE T O WN H O S P I T A L

- TH E .

P O L I C E O FF I C E T H E
- . T H E ATR E T H E ASS E M B L Y R O O M S -

A N D E XC H A N GE T H E C A T H E D R A L A N D C H U R C H E S T H E .

Q U A R A N T I N E E NG L I S H R A C E S A G R I C U L T U R A L E S T A
.
_
.

B L I S H M E NT. C O M M E R C E o r O D ES S A FR AUD S A T T H E
.
1 58 TH E R I SE A ND PR O G R E SS OF O D ESS A .

C US T O M H O US E
- F A N CY W O R I I N
.
- ~ RU SS I A .
P O PU L AT I ON
O F O D ESSA O D fas s A A F R E E P O R T C C O N D UC T
. .
I M PO L I T I

O F T H E GO V E R N M E N T P R E S E N T M E A S U R E s A N E CD O T E S
. . .

D E P A R T U R E F R O M O D ESSA C OB L E Y O L B I A P H E
. . .

D E R O V K A A M I L I T A R Y C O L O N Y A R R I V A L A T N I K O L A EF
,
.

L OD GI N G SE L E CT E D BY T H E P O L I C E A DM I R A L GR E I G . .

b E S C R I P T I O N O F N I K O L A RE T H E D EP OT D E C A R T E S A N D
.

M US E U M T H E DOCK S T H E P O P UL A T O N
. SP A S S K I .
L . .

D E P A R T UR E F R O M N I K O L A R E K H E R S ON H ow A R D s
. .

M O NU M E N T C A U S E O F T H I S P H I L A NT H R O P I S T S D E A T H
.
.

l
O D ES S A a town which has rise n as i f by m agic
, , ,

fro m the bo so m O f a desert on the shores O f the

Black Sea has pec uliar clai m s to atte n tio n espe
, ,

cia on acco un t O f its co m m ercial r elatio n s with

y
E u rope ; an d yet it has n ot bee n acc u rately de
scribed by an y E n glish traveller sin ce i t acqu ired
m u ch i m porta n ce As the history of this to w n is
.

i n ti m ately co n n ected with that Of the other ports ,

an d the co m m erce of the E u x m e I shall here ,

throw togethe r a n u m ber O f ge n eral O bser v ation s ,

for which I am greatly i n debted to the letters O f

Mon sie u r Sicard I shall the n take n otice of every
.

l
thi n g re m arkable i n this n e w city .

Peter the Great wishi n g to civ ilise his n ation

, ,

w i sely con sidered that he sho u ld best e ffect

ll
his p u rpose by exte n di n g an d I m p r ovm g I t s c om
m e r c i a relatio n s With this de sign he established
.

the co m m erce of the B altic an d h ad prepared for ,

si m ilar s u ccess on the Black Sea ; but differe nt O b

st ac e s opposed h S plan s an d with di fc u lty he ,

preserved T agan rog u pon the Sea O f Azof as the ,

 TH E R I SE A ND PR O GR E SS OF O D ES S A 159

l
.

e m pori um for the co m m erce O f t he south Of R u ssia .

It was reserved for Catheri n e I I to realise his .

proj ects by co n qu est ; an d for Alexan der to c on

solidate the m by the wisdo m an d the m i d n ess Of

l
his gover n m e n t .

By the treaty of K ai n ar dj i i n 1 7 7 4 an d a c on ,

l
v e n t i on i n 1 7 99 R u ssia n vessel s were allowed to
,

n a v igate the Black Sea ; an d the p a ssage O f the

Dardan el e s was ope n ed to the m With the view .

O f proti n g by the s e circ u m stan ces an d of esta ,

b i s hi ng co m m erce an d a m ari n e i n the year 1 7 7 8 ,

R u ssia fo un ded t he tow n Of Khe r s On on the righ t ,

ban k of the Dn p e r an d se v e n ty two v ersts fro m

,
-

its e m bo u c hu re Man y pri v ileges were gran ted to

.

this n e w establish m e n t by t h e E m press which at ,

tracted a n u m ber O f stran gers an d a con siderable ,

co m m erce to it Its relation s which began with

.
,

Co n stan ti n ople an d the Archipelago soo n ex ,

te n ded to Marseilles L i vor n i a Tries te &c But

, , , .

it was soo n fo un d that Khe r sOn however well

, ,

adapted i n so m e respects as the port O f the Black ,

ll
Sea yet had n u m ero u s i n co n ve n i e n ces 1 The
,
. .

cataracts O f the Dn p e r greatly i m peded the water

com m u n icatio n with the i n terior ; all m ercha n dise
be in g n ecessarily discharged at the m carried abou t ,

s eve n ty v ersts by an d an d the n t e i m barked so as

, ,
-

.to arr i ve at Khers on 2 A vessels which drew

. .

m ore than six feet O f water were obl i ged to re m ai n

at Gl ub okoy e thirty versts below the tow n
,
.

3 From the m o n th O f O ctober the Dnp e r i s

.
1 60 TH E R I SE A ND PR O GRE SS OF O D ES S A .

covered with ice an d Ofte n re m ai n s so till the m on th

,

O f March 4 The breaki n g up O f the ice i s very

. .

dan gero u s so that co m m erce can n ot be sec u rely

,

carried on for m ore tha n se v e n m o n th s of the year .

5 The air O f K h e r sOn is i n sal ub r io u s

. .

The o n ly way O f obviat i n g these seriou s i nc on

veniences was to m ake cho i ce O f so m e m ore
,

s uitable place but at that ti m e this was i m p ossi ,

ble beca use the Boog the n form ed the fro n tier
,

l
betwee n T u rkey an d R u ssia .

The com m erce O f K he r s n n otwithstan di n g all ,

O bstacles , con ti n u ed to exte n d daily : it e m ploy ed

m ore than 2 00 A u strian or R u ssia n ships which ,

m ai n tai n ed the co m m erce O f Ga i c i a by the

Dan u be ; Of the govern m e n t O f Khe r sOn by the ,

Dn p e r an d eve n O f K affa as th e K r i m e a cam e ,

u n der the do m i n atio n O f R u ssia i n 1 7 8 3 Bu t the .

war which took place between the Porte an d the

I m perial Co urts of R u ssia an d A u stri a i n 1 7 8 7 , ,

paralysed this growi n g com m erce The peace .

co n cl u ded betwee n the Porte an d A u stri a i n 1 7 90 ,

i n so m e degree restored its vigo u r but it w as n ot

till after the con cl u s i o n of peace between the Porte
an d R u ss i a i n 1 7 92 that i t qu ite r egai n ed i ts pros
,

p e r it.
y Accordi n g to this treaty R u ssia exte n ded ,

her fron tiers fro m the Boog t o the D u este r an d ,

i n the follow i n g year by the partiti on O f Polan d

, ,

she acqu ire d the provi n ces O f this ki n gdo m n earest

the Black Sea The i n con ve n ie n ces Of K h er sOn
.

were n ow still m ore felt an d an other port was

.
,
 G R E SS D ES S A 1 61

PR O OF O .

wa n ted ; bes i d es , i t was eces s ary to thi n k of n d n

i n g a m or e co n ve n i e n t exit for the p rod uction s

o f the n e w pro v i n ces than by Kherso n ,The road .

jy
or harb ou r O f H ad i be a Tart ar Village co m posed , ,

of a fe w h u ts an d with a s m all fortress from ti m e

, ,

im m e m o r i al had O ffered shelter i n wi n ter or i n

, ,

s tor m s to v essels n av igati n g the E u xi n e

, an d h ad ,

s erv ed for the e m barkatio n of grai n an d m erchan

l
dise which Co n stan ti n ople drew fro m the n ei gh
,
m

bou r i n g regio n s Fro m the position O f this village

.

l
an d its port i t was tho u ght well adapted for the
,
-

fu ll m e n t of the do u ble p u rpose abo v e m e n ti on ed

.
.

T h e n e w establish m e n t excited the s o i c i t u d e of

.

l
the E m pr ess i n 1 7 96 who n am ed it O d essa an d , , ,

i n deed she had a r e ady con ferred u pon it differen t

,

privileges whic h had attracted thither a con sider

,

able pop ulation an d co m m erce ; a colo n y Of Greek s

from the Archipelago were there se tt e d an d a
'

,
.

m ayor was appoi nted Ad m iral R ibas by whom .

r ,

H adj i be y had bee n t ake n fro m the T u rks h avi n g ,

.

re m arked its advan tages proposed to m ake it a ,

co m m erc i al port as well as a place O f shelter for

,

v essels of war His plan s were approv ed Of an d the

. ,

n ecessary works were begu n ; bu t w h e t he r ow i ng ,

to the di fc u lties that a n aked co un try prese n ts ,

to t he dearth of all t he n ecessary m aterial s

cept sto n e or to so m e i n here n t de fect i n the
,
.

arrange m e n ts m an y m illion s of r o ubles were ex

,
.

pe n ded i n t h e c on st r u c t i on of a fortress barracks

. , ,

an d so m e other p ubl i c establish m en ts at that t im e ,

V OL . I .
M
1 62

of l PR O G R E SS

it tle i m portan ce It wo uld appear l i kewi s e

.

fro m the reports of som e writers that part O f the

p u blic m on ey had been m isapplied an d the port
OF

.
O D ESS A .

r e m ai n ed u n n ished Stran gers as well as R u s

.
,

s ian s who had bee n i n d u ced by the pro f

, fered ad
van tage s t o settle at O d essa dreadi n g that the ,

town wou ld be aban do n ed be fore it was n ished ,

an d afraid of r i ski n g their capitals o n ly erected ,

s m all tem porary edices n otwithstan d in g that the ,

l
ad m iral gave a good exam ple by buildi n g a large
hou se for hi m self At its com m e n ce m e n t O d ess a
.
,

becam e a refuge for the worst m e m bers of society

O f the n eighbo u ri n g co u n tries Above 3 00 Jewish .

fam ilies m ost O f the m fro m Ga i c i a besides a great

, ,

n u m ber O f work m e n xed the m selves there

, Th e
E m peror Pau l decei v ed by the ideas gi ve n h i m of
,

the town e n deavou red to p u t its m agistracy u po n

, .

the sam e footi n g as that of Riga an d Revel tow n s ,

l
which had ex i sted for ages ; but it was soo n fo un d
n ecessary to r e establ i sh the form er syste m
- TO .

ward the e n d Of his reign that sovereign besto w ed ,

l
the m ost sign al favo u rs upon O dssa : be gran ted
to i t the far m i n g O f Spirits an d exe m pti o n fro m a ,

taxes an d fro m provi di n g soldiers q u arters for
twen ty ve years He also le n t t he town
- .

r oub e s w i t h ou t i n terest to be repaid at the c on

~

, .
,

e l u s i o n O f that period an d m ade a pre s e n t to it of

,

all the m ateri als which had bee n collected for

m aki n g a port for vessels Of war Dr Clarke . .
,

h o w ever h as asserte d that the E m peror becam e

, ,
 PR O GR E SS OF O D ES S A . 1 63

usu rer h avin g le n t the m erchan ts a sum of m on ey

,

w i th e no rm o u s i n terest an d u po n the stro n gest

,

s ec u rity ; but as i n m an y other i n stan ces I believe

, ,

this was a m istake O f that lively writer s H e

l
.

m u st have all u ded to a private loan spoke n of

hereafter .

Notwi thstan din g all Pau l s con cessi on s O d essa ,

lost gro un d d uri n g h i s reign The treaty of L un e .

vi l e had j ust restored peace t o the Co n ti n en t whe n

Alexan der ascen ded the thro n e Soon afterwards .

a ter m i n atio n was p ut to seriou s differe n ces be

twee n E n glan d an d R u ssia an d the co m m ercial

relation s of Fr an ce with the latter co u n try were

r e established by a treaty i n 1 8 0 1
- T O the tre aty .

O f A m ie n s con cl u ded at the com m en ce m e n t of

,

1 8 02 s u cceeded that O f Fran ce with the Porte by

, ,

which Fre n ch vessels were p ut on the sam e footin g

with those Of the other n ation s m ost favo ured i n
T u rkey ; a n d i n con sequ e n ce O btai n ed the liberty

l
Of n avigatin g the Black Sea Soon afterwards the .

E n glish the Pr u ssian s the Neapolitan s the R a

, , ,

u san s the D utch an d the Rep u blic O f the Se ve n

g , ,

l
Islan ds O btai n ed the sam e privilege This m e .

m or ab e epoch liberated the Black Sea fro m the

do m i n ation of the T u rks which becam e a co m m on
,

do m ai n an d the ce n tre of great spec ulati o n s

,
.

O d essa was the esse n tial ra lyi n g poi n t O f all

these n ati o n s The co m m erce O f 1 8 02 was very
.

br illian t ; 2 80 vessels arri ved fro m Con stan ti n ople

an d the Med i terran ea n ; above t c h e t ve r t s
 7"
Of
PR O GR E S S O F

were exported ; an d a fe w co mm erc i a

c orn

h ou ses had for m ed establish m e n ts,

O D ES S A

l l .

"

l
ever wan ted solidity The pop u ation m ight n ow
,
.

am ount to 7 000 or 8 000 Of who m scarcely a third ,

part we r e fe m ales Near ly 5 00 fam ilie s O f t his

l
n u m ber however dwelt i n the tow n la n ds at shor t
, ,
-

dis tan ce s fr Om O d ssaw E ar y i n the year 1 803 ,

r

the activity Of th e c om m e r c e i n corn raised great '

expectation s The gover n m e n t also with parti

.
,

c u ar solicit u de occ upied itself for the i n terests O f

,

N ew R u ssia an d e n co u rag e d the trade O f O d essa

, ,

w h i le i t co n ti nu ed t o re m it twe n ty v e p e r c en t - .

c u sto m d uties O f e n try an d ex i t wh i ch Cathari n e I I

l
- .
,

had for m erly acc orded t o all the ports Of the Black
Se a The growi n g i m portan ce O f O d essa i n d u c ed
.

t he E m peror A lexa n der to appoi n t the D ue de

,

R i c he ie u i t s g over n or ge n eral an d to gran t hi m -

,

v ery exte n sive power s The D uke soon c hange d .

~

t h e zfac e Of affairs xed the p ublic co n den ce an d

, ,

prepared plan s the rapid exec utio n Of w h i c h w as

l l
the m ore re m a rkable i n a cou n try so thin ly i n ha
,
.

bit e d Thi s year n i n e h u n dred vessels e n te red the

, ,

B lac k sea O f whic h 5 3 6 ar r 1 ve d at O d essa the

,
.

g reatest p art i n ballast So m.e bro ught a rticle s .

fro m S p ai n Fran ce I t a y an d the L eva n t All O f

, , ,
~
.

the m retu rn ed lade n with cor n which was then a ,

most the o n ly article de m an ded an d the on ly On e ,

O d ess a cou ld furn ish : she n ot havi n g establ i shed

other con n exio n s with the i n terior O f the e m pir e .

This corn was prod u ced by the govern m e n ts of -

 l
l
l l
PodO i a, V o c hi n ia,

u po n
PR O G R E SS

Ki ef; an d Kh ers on the three

rst tran sported it to O dessa by an d the last partly
ighters which d e sc e n de d t h e Dn p e r an d
,
OF O D ES SA

'
.

,
.

, .
1 65 .

r eached the roads of O d essa Mr Sicar d calc ulate s . .

lll
that th i s year the v al u e of exp orted corn am oun ted
to ro ubles bu t probably he was e x t r av a
, , ,
:

gan t Tho ugh the popu lation i n 1 8 03 am o un te d

. .

t o abo u t yet the tow n was m erely traced ;

there were o n ly a fe w hou ses s m al bad y b ui t , , ,

an d i n co m m od i o u s scarcely m agazi n es ; n o

an
; y
p u blic establish m e n ts ; a very in co m plete quaran
ti n e ; an d a si n gle m ole i n the roads wh i c h badly ,

protected the vessels from the sou th east win ds

- .

The e n vi ro n s were u n c ulti vate d an d desert t o the

exte n t of n early eighty or n in ety versts on every

S ide ; the co m m ercial co n n ex i o n s s u ffere d by th i s
i solated s i t u atio n ; the i n hab i tan ts of t he town ,

ab un dan tly fu rni shed with the n ecessaries Of l ife ,

w an ted fr u its herbs an d n u m ero u s O bj ects O f Jux

, ,
-

ur
y ; eve n good water w a s wa n t i n g at t i m es for , ,
-

the n u m ero us an i m al s which were u sed to transport

t he cor n to O d essa The gover n m e n t aware O f
.
,

its wan ts eagerly c on s ulted its i n terest T O the

, .

d u ti es u po n spiri ts for the u se O f the town were ,

als o added a te n th Of the whole produ cts O f t he

,

c u stom ho use an d n e w fun ds to cover n eces sar y

-
,

expen ses Besides a sum of m on ey was p ut at

.
,
-

th e di spos iti on of the co m m ittee of a dm in i strati o n

- :

o f t h e to w n t o le n d to the i n h abitan ts who w ished

,

to b uild houses at the rate O f 6 p er cent p er annum -

. .

M 3
1 66 PR O G R E SS OF O D ES S A .

T he gai ns O f co m m erce an d t he abo ve-n am e d ,

advan tages gave r ise to a great m an y private e di

,

ll
c e s m u ch better b u ilt an d m ore co n ve n ie n t than

l
the form er The tow n on its side com m e n c e d t o
.
, ,

for m a m ore c o mm od i o u s an d m ore sec u re port an d ,

an exte n s i ve n e w q u ara n ti n e ; it l aid the fo u n d

ation O f a R u sso Greek cathedra O f a Ro m an

-
,

catho i c ch urch O f a gym n asi u m of an hospit a

, , ,

O f a t heatre an d ,i n ge n eral O f all the establ i sh

, ,

m e n ts which n ow n ished p u t O d essa u pon a

, ,

footi n g with the other tow n s O f E u rope The ad .

m i n i strati o n also establishe d m a n y colo n ies of

B u lgarian s H un garian s Slavon ian s an d Ger m an s
, , , ,

w h o had willi n gly aba n do n e d their co un try i n th e ,

vi ci n ity of the town The w ar s u dde n ly re n ewed

.

betwee n Fran ce an d Great Britai n i n 1 8 03 took ,

t he ad m i n istrat i o n by s u rprise i n the m idst O f i t s ,

i m porta n t O perat i o n s w hic h j u s tly calc u lated how

, ,

eve r that the trade carri e d on i n n e utral vessels

, ,

an d e n co u raged by the i n terests an d the wan ts O f

E urope wo u ld still give gr eat activity to t he c om

,

m erce of O d essa The year 1 8 04 realised this

.

hope , The wars O f Italy the distu rban ces i n ,

E gypt the prohibition agai n st the grai n O f H un

,

gary had either exhau sted or sh ut up the gran ari e s

,

O f E urope w hich co uld n o l on ger sat i s fy her wan t s

,

but by O d essa I n t hi s yea r 4 4 9 vessels departed

.
,

with cargoes of corn The i n habitan ts n ow began ,

to enj oy the advan tages of its e n lighten ed ad m i

n i st rat i on ; t he to w n was fu r n i shed w i th the n e c e s
 PR O G R E SS OF O D ES S A . 1 67

sary arti san s the s u rro un d in g distri cts w ere tilled ,

an d a ge n er al i m provem e n t was m ade w h i ch ,

pro m i sed futu re prosperity A n d as the in terests .

l
of the town were esse n tially c on n e c t e d w i t h those

of all New R u ssia the e m peror the better t o

, ,

iden ti fy the m n o m i n ated the Du e de Richel i e u ,

,

govern or ge n eral O f the govern m e n ts Of Yek at e ri

-

l
n os a f the T au r i d a or K r i m e a an d K h erso n
, , .

l
T he co m m erce O f 1 8 04 was o u rishi n g ; that O f

1 8 05 still m ore s o an d there arriv e d at O d essa

, ,

64 3 vessels I n 1 8 0 6 political circ u m stan ce s

.
,

becam e u n favo urabl e to the n avigatio n O f n e utra

vessels an d had a great effect upo n the co m m ercia
,

relatio n s O f O d essa with E u rope This year there .

arrived o n ly 2 7 9 vessel s, bu t the co m m u n ication

of the L evan t was exte n ded an d the m erchan ts Of ,

the E ast fou n d a co n s i derable exit for their m e r

c han d i se Towards th e e n d O f the sam e year a
.
,

r upt ure took place betwee n Tu rkey an d R u ss i a ,

an d , O f co u rse a s u spe n sion of the con n ex i on s of

,

O d essa with foreig n co u n tries was a m o n g its co u se

u e n c es The treaty O f Tils i t led to an ar m istice
q .

betwee n these two powers i n con sequ e n ce Of ,

which i n Septe m ber 1 8 07 differe n t vessels lade n

, , ,

w ith c orh an d other articles were despatched fro m ,

O d essa to Co n stan ti n ople an d goods were rece i ve d ,

by i m portation The war an d the s u spen sion of

.
,

co m m erce between the two e m pires had prod u ce d ,

g reat reciprocal wa n ts T u rkey depri ved O f its

.
,

h ogs d ar d b u tter an d grai n wh i ch were for m erly
, , ,

M 4
 l
1 68 O B ST AC L E S TO T H E I N R E C A SE OF O D ES S A

l
.

fur n i s hed to i t by Moldavi a an d Wallach i a was I n

'

total wan t of these arti cles ; an d the grai n of the

.

M o r ea on acco un t of the Dardan elles co u d n o

, ,

on ger arri ve at Co n stan t in ople E gypt had scar c ely .

.

an
y co n n ex i o n with the capital a n d A n atolia w as ,
,

i n a state of an archy These cau ses had r e .

d uc e d Co n sta n ti n ople S m yrn a an d other places , , .

O f the L evan t to the i r on ly reso urce the coast

, ,

of R u ssia on the E u x i n e z an d th u s gave rise

ll
to t he r e m arkably i n creased co m m erce of 1 8 08
. .

T yh i s e a r O d ss a dispatche d 3 99 vessels f ro m h e r

ort w h i c h h ad i m ported articles for R u ssia fro m

p ,

l
t he L eva n t to the v al u e of n early s i x m i llio n s of
,

r ou b e s an d to the val u e O f n early t e n m i ll i o n s O f r ou

,

bles O f tran s i t goods R u ssian pro du cts s uch as corn

.
, ,

h ogs lar d O i can dl es caviare &c t o the val u e

, , , , .
,

of n early s i x m il i o n s O f ro ubles we r e exported ,

I n tr uth at th i s peri od the sa m e c i rc um stan ce s

, ,

wh i ch co m ple tely paralysed the co m m erce Of othe r .

pl ac es acting i n v ersely u po n that of O d essa

, ,

h ere O pe n e d a n e w bran ch viz

.
the tra n sit of , .

cotton s an d other k i n ds of m erchan dise fro m the

,

L evan t by O d essa to Brodi V i e n n a an d other

, , , ,

places as well as the tran s i t Of other w ares vi ce

, _ ,

ver sa .

Fro m the ab ove acco un t Of O d essa up to 1 8 1 0 , ,

Mr Sicard j ustly says that i t had m ade a rapid

.
,

progress ; an d that the i n d i vi d u al w ho had o n ly

dwelt i n it ve years before wo uld n o lon ge r
,
,

have k n ow n it Two po w erfu l Obstacles h owever

.
, ,
 l
O B ST CL E S T O T H E I N C R E A SE O F O
A .
'

D ES S A . 1 69

the co mm erce an d i nc r e ase of th i s t own m ust

'

to
'

always h ave operated an d always w ill operate , ,

l
the wa n t O f a n avi gab e river an d Of a s upply Of
t .

water for the p u rposes Of li fe t o which m ay b e ,

also added the great d e ar th of fu el ; r e wood be i n g - .

l
S O extre m ely val u able that the stoves Of the poor :

ar e ighted w i th dried weeds shrubs d ung an d , , ,

l
o ther re fu se Man y atte m pts to proc u re a s uffi c i e n t
.

s upply O f water h ave been m ade by diggi n g i n n u

m e r ab e wells i n the tow n ; but all w ith the exceptio n ,
.

of abo u t hal f a doz e n have proved aborti ve ; an d that

,

half dozen are val u ed i n proportion to the di fc u

tie s wh i ch atte n ded the i r discov ery The peasan ts .
,

l
w h o arrive i n s um m er w i th cor n fro m the so u th of?
the e m p i r e are so m eti m es i n dan ger of losi n g th e i r
,

oxen w hich n ot u n freq u e n tly a m oun t to two or

,

three tho u sa n d altho ugh a wateri n g place has been

,
-

m ade on p u rpose to obviate this i n co n ve n ie n ce .

\

The chief fo un tai n O f s upp y O f water for O d essa

lies at the di stan ce O f between three an d fo u r versts
sou th of the town an d whe n we con sider the other ,

gigan tic u n dertaki n gs of the Du e de Richelie u we

l
,

l l
are tru ly aston i shed that he did n ot ca u se a reser
voir t o be for m ed to whic h an ab u n dan t s upply O f
,

water fro m the fo un tai n m ight be eas ily con d ucte d

by pipes an d the n ce to every dwelli n g This n o
, .
,

do ubt wi l be atten ded with co n siderable e x p e n c e

, ,

beca use the spri n g I S greatly below the e ve of the

tow n an d the water m u st be raised by hydraulic
,

m achi nes but sho uld O d es sa o uri sh i t will be

, ,
1 70 SI T U A TI ON A ND A R C H I T E C T UR E OF O D ES SA .

an i n dispe n sable w ork The fou n tai n i s situ ate d .

on th e sea shore an d the r ap i d desce n t to i t i s pro

-
,

l
bably n ot less than 1 40 or 1 60 feet A s m all b u ild .

i ng i s erected over the spri n g an d i s gu arded by ,

three K oz ak s who l i ve there an d altern ately keep

, ,

gu ard The wate r i ss u es con ti n ually i n a co u si

.

d e r ab e stream fro m the l i m esto n e rocks fro m ,

which tho ugh apparen tly p u re it receives a stron g

, ,

i m pregn ation an d is re n dered very hard Barrels

, .

l
are lled w ith i t an d tra n sporte d to town eith er by
, ,

carts or i n boats The asce n t O f the hill is a .

ser i ou s draft for loaded horses an d i n creases the ,

e x e n c e O f the water each s m all barrel of which

p ,

costs fro m a ro uble to a ro u ble an d a ha f,a ccordi n g

to the distan ce fro m the fou n tai n A frie n d of .

m i n e told m e that his m oderate me n ag e cost h i m
,

eight or t e n ro ubles a week an d that so m e i n di vi ,

d uals paid dou ble that su m for water n o s m all

tax for on e of the i n dispe n sable articles of life .

O d essa is situ ated i n the gover n m e n t O f Kh er

' '
s on u n der 2 9 2 4 E L an d 4 6 2 8 N an d i s

. . .
,

1 8 7 6 versts distan t fro m Petersb u rgh 1 402 fro m ,

Moscow an d 1 64 fro m the town O f Kh erso n forty

, ,

versts west fro m the e m bou ch u re O f the Dn p e r ,

an d 5 1 east O f th at O f the D u ester

l
.

I n a dissertatio n i n an other w ork I have give n it

Thi s is ac c o rdi g t n o Br ook e s

s G az e tt e e r . I n No rrie
s S ea

m an s

N ew D a i y A ss i s ta n t , O d es sa i s sa id t o be u n de r 30
37 '

E L an d 4 6 2 8 ' N L
.

. I t i s s t an g e ,
. . r h
t at sc a c e r ly t w o bo k o s

h av e t h e l o git
n ud e s an d l ti t
a ud e s o f plac e s alik e.
 D E S C R I PT I ON OF O D ES S A . 171

as my op in i on that i n po in t O f r eg ulari ty an d archi

,

tect ure O dessa m ay be s aid to b e Petersb ur gh in

,

m in i at u re .I n both the experi e n ce of ages an d ,

th e skill an d s u perin ten de n ce O f fam ou s architects ,

chiey Italian an d Fre n ch have co n trib u ted m u ch

,

to the i r e m bellish m e n t Th u s as on other occa

.
,

l
sion s by an e n lighte n ed policy R u ss i a has avai le d
, ,

hersel f to a great exte n t of the labo u rs scie n ce

, , , ,

an d ge n eral k n owledge O f her n eighbo u rs Pe .

t e r sbu r gh re n ovated Moscow O d essa K h r s on

, , , ,

l
Nik o aef T agan rog an d N OVO -T c h e r k ask ab un
, , ,

dau tly testify the s u ccess w hich has atte n ded the
an x i o u s exe r tio n s of her m on archs i n raisi n g citi es
an d tow n s wh i ch excite the aston ish m e n t an d t he
,

ad m iration O f travellers fro m the m ost p o i she d n a

tion s Had all the p ublic m o n ey so prodigally
.
,

dispersed by so m e of the sovereig n s O f R ussi a be e n ,

dev oted to sim ilar p u rposes h o w m an y m ore ,

o urishi n g town s an d Villages m ight have clai m ed

a place i n the j o u rn als O f travellers eve n as th ey ,

trav ersed u n fert ile regio n s .

The streets O f O d essa are all reg ular st r aight , ,

an d spacio u s an d they i n tersect each other at

r ight an gles So m e of the m are a m ile i n

.

le n gth an d a fe w are adorn ed by rows O f trees on

,

eac h side They are still u n paved ; an d we were

.
,

i n for m ed that m an y O f the m are i n describably

,

dirty i n a utu m n an d spri n g after heavy rai n : it

was eve n said that it was n ecessary to order a car
,

r i a e m erely to cross th e street It had n ot rai n ed

g .
 l
1 72 D E SC R I PTI O N

for so me ti me previ o u s t o our i n m an y

places, the pri n cipal streets were dirty an d had h ole s ,

ful of wat er T h e tr ott oi r s are n ot good an d i n a

.
,

m odern town w e w ere s u rp r i sed at n d i n g deep n u

,

covered ditches on eac h s i de of all the streets I n .

l
m an y of the m the ho u ses are co n tig u o u s i n others ,

they are separated by c our ts an d garde n s All the ;

edic es are of sto n e an d gen erally plastered over

, ,

a n d pai n ted di f fere n t colo urs Their roofs are m ade .

O f w dod or O f sheets of iro n gau di y p ai n t e d so m e

, , ,

ll
ti m es also of tiles an d of slates from the K r i m e a
, .

Com paratively speaki n g bu t fe w low ho u ses ar e ,

.
to be seen O d essa is b u ilt upo n -the sam e li m e
.

ston e rock O f which its edi ces are con str u cted an d ,

r eally i t m a
y be cal e d U h c o ui ag e
q a c on , e

l
e r i e s O f shells w h i ch falls very rap i dly i n to d ecay
g , .

It cann ot escape the n otic e O f the spectator that ,

every str uct u re of a fe w years stan d i n g presen ts n u
m e r ous d e fe c t s i n i ts fa cades , the sto n es h avm g bee n

l
either a ltogether or partly c ut ou t O f u n c on so i;
, ,
'

dated layers of the rock A m on g othe r i n terest .

i ng O bservati o n s by Dr Clarke respecti n g this li me

.
,

s to n e , w e n d the followi n g It is i n a se m i i

i n d u rated state bu t i ke th e Ketton sto n e an d

,
-
,

al m ost every other variety u sed for architect ural

p u rposes harde n s by expos ure to the atm osphere
,
.
.

Whe n exam i n ed closely it ex hib i ts th r o ugho ut the ,

e n tire m ass n o other appearan ce than an aggregate

O f s m all cockle shells ; all exactly O f the sam e size

-
,

per fect i n their form s bu t cr u m bl i n g i n the han d

, . .

,
 l
L I M E S T O NE . 1 73

an d colou red by the yellow or r ed ox i de of

l

L ike the calcareo u s t uf O f M osc ow r h owever a
-
, ,

tho ugh it har de n s for a certain peri od i t afterward s ,

decays an d requ i res a con ti n u al re n ewal especially

, ,

whe n n ear the fo un datio n or when un plastered , .

Near the qu aran tin e I had an e x c e e n t opp or

ll
t un i t y of see in g the fr o n t O f the rock as t h ey w e re ,

c u ttin g it away i n order t o clear a si t e for a r ow of

n e w b u i ldi n gs an d als o for the m aterials
, The .

l
n early perpe n d i c u la r face of the hill prese n ted t en

l
Or twelve feet of yel o w i sh brown soil a layer or -
,

c o n geri es O f petr i ed Shells whose i n tersti ces were

lled w ith earth a very brittle m ass a ayer of

, ,

the s am e kin d m ore con sol i dated a aye r or ag ,

'

r e at e O fs h e s bu t w i tho ut earth an d st i ll harder

g g ,

,

an d an other layer i n the m ost co m plete state O f

con solidati on fou n d h ere ; an d eve n this layer is

n ot v ery hard SO that the work m e n with great
, ,

ease c u t m asses O f it i n to reg ular de term in ate

,

l
s hapes ,by m ean s O f saws Nu m ero u s n e spe .

l
c i m e n s which I had collected for E n gla n d
, were ,

r ui n ed i n co n sequ e n ce of the se rv an t haVi ng p u t

,
f

the box wh i ch co n tai n ed the m on the perch of the

carr i age ; whe n I O pe n ed it at Nik o ae f; I fo un d
'

i t fu of powder
f .

The sam e ki n d O f li m esto n e as be fore O bserved , ,

is fohn d at V oz n es en sk an d eve n further to the ,

Clark e s Tra els p 625

v , . .

J
C hara c t e r of t h e R ussian s &c p 75
r , . .
 l
1 74 PL A NT S . PUBL I C GA R D E N S .

l
n orth of the e m p i re I exam i n ed the sea coast .
-

w i t h so m e atten ti o n an d ge n era l y r em arked that

,

t h e st r atu m O f l i m esto n e was h or i z o n tal In so m e .

plac es i t see m e d to dip i n t he i ne of t he c oast ,

n early fro m n orth t o so u th an d i n other places t o ,

dip from d ay I s u spect that i n con sequ e n ce Of
'

.
,

s o m e d i slocatio n great m asses have falle n an d

, ,

chang ed t hei r n at u ral positi o n an d have led to the

l
,

above featu res Probably the w hole stratu m at

.

on e period occ u p i ed a n early horizo n tal positio n .

l
By the sea shore an d i n th e sea I collected
-
, , ,

a n u m b er O f se a-weeds an d on the li m eston e , ,

l
r ock an d adjoi n i n g elds m a n y p an ts the e n u m e , ,

r ati o n of w h i ch c an o n ly prove i n teresti n g to the

bot an i st A
alo n g the coast the se a water i s -

o n ly brackish .

T he p ub i c g ar d ens fro m their ce n tral si t u ation

, ,

are a gr eat orn a m e n t t o the town an d a so urce O f ,

l
pleas u re to the in hab i tan ts O f O dessa O n S u n day .

even i n g d urin g the n e seaso n they b e come the

l
, ,

at The s ea -w e e ds we r
e the f lowi g
o n

F uc us s i i qu os us Co n fe v ar p ly m orpha
o

l
i
c o c c n e us fu c oi de s
ca pillari s d iap h an a
v iridi s Se tu r l ri a a abi e t i n a

C o fe rva
n c oc c n e a i c up r e ssi n a

nigr e s c ens v e r m i c u at a

r p tri
u es s p um ila .

Som e of t he plants ar e m e nt ion e d hereaft er .

 EN GL I SH C L UB . TH E L Y C E UM . 1 75

s cen e O f gran d pr om en ades w h i ch ar e atte n ded by ,

crowds of in divid uals O f a variety O f n ati o n s ,

h abited i n their di versied costu m es an d speakin g ,

di ffere n t lan gu ages A m ilitary ban d e n live n s

.

these asse m blies wh i ch the gover n or ge n eral e n

,
-

co u rages by his prese n ce The gard e n s are n ot .

very exten sive ; they are kept in good order bu t ,

the w alks are t oo n arr ow .

A n u m ber of co u n try ho u ses an d garde n s to the

-

so uth Of O dessa an d u pon the sea coast whic h be

,
-
,

lo n g to Ge n eral Cobley Mr R ai n aud &c occ upy

, .
, .

a charm i n g situ ation They as well as Co un tess

.
,
-

l

Pot Ot sk ii s garde n s in tow n whic h are ope n to th e ,

p u blic are ge n erally visited by the stran ger

, .

There are several i n n s at O de ssa all Of wh i ch ,

l
l
are very expe n sive We resided i n th e Cl u b as it
.
,

i s ca l ed an d paid twen ty ro u bles a day for fo u r

,

r oo m s an d an apartm e n t for ou r ser v a n ts Di n n ers .

were un reason ably d ear There is a lately for m ed

.
-

E ng i s h C u b or readi n g roo m i n this i n n where

,
-
, ,

are rece i ved the L on don n ewspapers an d B riti s h

l
j o u rn als &c an d to w hic h stran gers are adm itted
, .
, ,

u p on havi n g the i r n am es registered by o n e of its

m e m bers .

l
F or m an y years past the R u s sian n e w spapers
have been con ti n u al y proclai m i n g the boasted
progress Of the L y ceum A fter readi n g the vario u s
.

reports on the rise an d advan ce m en t O f the L y ce e
R i che i eu an d especially what is said by Castel n au
,

O f the gym n as i u m an d the i n st itu te an d r e ,

 1 76

m arked i n

L y c e e R iche i e u, l
h i s plan

l TH E L

of

ear the se a Shore an d i n the

n

coun try I was i n n o s m all degree d i sappoi nted

,
-
Y C E UM

O dessa,
.

-
E mp ac emen t da

to n d this i n stitutio n placed i n the very cen tre

O f the tow n an d i n a state O f d ecl i n e so ; rapid

,
.

as to threat e n its fall The fact is that so m e

.
,

years ago there was a design of erectin g a co m r

m odiou s edice for the said L yce u m ; an d on the

s ite i n d i cated ; bu t in stead O f realis in g this plan
, ,

th e gym n asi um was e n larged an d co n v e rted i n to

the L yc e Richel i eu The s i t u atio n of the prese n t
.

i n stitu tio n m ay be co n ve n i en t for the m asters bu t ,

i t is by n o m ean s well placed as a se m i n ary for

yo u th The edice is very exte n s i ve an d i n the
. .
, ,

for m O f an O blon g squ ar e divided by a li n e O f ,

b u ildin g i n the mi ddle I t h as n o garde n 5 bu t .

'

m erely a s m all co u rt for the exerc i se an d a m u se

m e n t O f the p u pil s Two O f the fagade s li n e t w o
,

differen t streets ; an d as the pave m e n t ru n s close

,

by the m to preve n t i n terr u pti o n to the p u pils

, ,

l
the win dows hav e bee n n early b u i lt up so that a ,

scan ty portion O f light is ad m itted throu g h a fe w

u n covered pa n es The roo m s in the u pper story
.

are excelle n t T h e dor m itories are wi tho u t v e n

. .

ti at i on ; an d I co u l d n ot con ce i ve t he n ecessity of .

havin g all t he wi n dows blocked up except the high L -

est pan es The bed r oo m s Of whic h every p upil

.
-
,

h as h i s ow n are well arran ged

, .

The L yc e Ri chelie u was in the m ost o u ri shi n g

state for m an y years ; Its situatio n in a very n e
 TH E L Y C E UM . 1 77

l
a nd healthy cl i m ate together with the advan tages
,

i t h eld ou t for ed u catio n gai n e d i t a d egr e e o f

celebri ty far beyo n d an y si m ilar se m in ary i n the

R u ssian e m p i re ; an d the con sequ en ce was that .
,

t he n ob i i ty of Petersb ur gh an d Mo scow an d eve n ,

of re m ote gover n m e n ts s e n t their so n s thither for

,

the i r tu iti o n Mu ch Of its fa m e h owever de

.
, , -

pen de d on the Due de R i chelie u i ts fou nd er an d ,

zealo u s gu ardian an d i ts able di rector the A bbe

Ni coll e, who e n tered with sp i ri t i n to all t he "

D u ke s vi ews .U n fortun ately the D uke left
O d essa i n 1 8 1 4 , an d the excelle n t A bbe r es ign ed

l
h i s place abo u t the year 1 8 2 0 on acco un t O f i r ,

r egu laritie s an d i m proprieties which he cou ld

n ei ther correct n or con trol His resig n ati on .
-

c au sed the decl i ne an d it is to be feared was also

, , ,

the fore runn er O f the d i sso u tio n O f the L yce um .

At his depart ure between 2 00 an d 300 O f the

,
.

p u pils of t he best fam ilies of R u ss i a bade the

i nsti t uti on adie u H i s for m er assistan t n ow be
.

cam e his su cc es s or ; an d altho ugh I have h eard ,

h i m spoke n O f as a m an O f tale n ts an d as sid u ity ,

h e W as j u dged i n capable O f co n d u c ti n g s u ch an
i n stit u ti o n . A ge n tlem an fro m Riga had j u st
arri ve d at O dessa an d i t was expected that u n der
, ,

ll
hi s d i rectorship an d au spices the sem in ary would ,

recover its character I n for m er ti m es, 300 an d .

4 00 p up i ls w e r e t h e i n m ates of the L yce u m ; but

i n 1 8 2 2 it had o n ly 1 03 boarders who pay an ,

.

and 1 0 0 day s chol a

0 u each rs
'

n ua
y 1 2 0 o b e s -
'

r , ,

VOL . I. N
1 78 SE M I N ARIES FOR FE M A LE S .

l
w ho c om e t o t he i nsti tuti o n an d r ece i ve the i r
ed u cati on g r ati s The sam e professors teach both
.

l
the boarders an d the day-sch ol ars but at d iffere n t ,

h o u rs Th e bran che s O f e d ucati o n taugh t h ere

.

ar e rel i g i o n an g u ages the belles lettres

, , rh etori c -
, ,

ph i lo sophy hi story geography the m athe m ati cal

, , ,

an d phys i ca s c i e n ces m il i tary s c i e n ce s an d t h e

, ,

ar t s d ag r emen s
'
T he E m per or pay s for t e n
.
~

R us si an p up ils an d h e lately s e n t as m an y G r eek s

, ,

l
t o be e du cate d at hi s expe n se The Pedagogi c .

Class as i t is called co n tain s twen ty fo u r p up i ls

, ,
-
,

l
w h o are ta ught w i th the Vi ew of the i r beco m i n g
m aster s O f s c h ools i n di ffere n t pa r ts Of R u ssi a ;
E ach professo r r ece i ve s h o u se wood can d e s an d , , ,

table 1 5 00 r oubles i n cash an d bes i des a pro

, , , ,

po r tion of th e prots yi el ded by boar ders ; i n a

e qu al n ow t o abo u t 4 000 or 5 000 r o u bles p er

l
an n um The i n stituti on belon gs t o the c r ow n ; an d
.
,

l
l
bes i de s the paym e n ts Of t he boar der s i t rece i ve s ,

the followi ng reven u es : fro m govern m en t

r ou bles an n u ally fro m t he Du c de R i chelie u 3 3 60
,

d o a r s an d a vari able su m accor di n g t O t h e state

, ,

of co m m erce O f two k op e e k s an d a h a f si v er
, ,

i e n k op e e k s copper ) upo n eve r y tc h etvert

( . e .t
of corn exported fro m O d essa .

l
T he ed u cati o n of fe m ales i s care fully atten d ed
t o at O d essa ; an d a n um ber of boardi n g sch ools ,

besides p ubl i c s em i n ari es are kept by vari ou s ,

i n divi d u als We had the c u ri os i ty to m ake a Vi s it t o

.

L I n stitut des Demoi se ~ es de M adame Chefdce uvr e,
 l THE TO W N H O S PI T A L
- 1 79

l
.

w hich w as for m er y co n n ecte d w ith t he L yc e

R ic hel i e u It is n ow a private i n stituti o n but is
.
,

protec ted by the Dowager E m p r ess It i s s i tuated - .

i n a ar ge h o u se n ea r Co un tess Pot Otsk ii S garde n s ,

a n d n ot far fro m t h e se a s h ore It i s r e m arkably

- .

l
ll l
well con d uc ted ; an d as i t con tain e d si xty-three
,

p up i ls w ho p ay an n u ally 1 000 ro ubles each it

, ,

i s evi d e n t that i t o u rishes .

We n ext procee d ed t o t he exam in ati on O f

ll

L E co e ae Dem oi se es ou R ang des E c o es de

Di st r ic t , is un der the care O f a colon el s
w h i ch
w i dow who speaks n o lan gu age but R u ss i an A
, .

h u n dred g i rls i n cl u din g n obles b u rgesses an d

, , ,

fo un d i n gs are here i n str u cted g r ati s i n R u s s i an

, , ,

w r i ti n g ari th m etic n ee d e work 850

, , They d o -
, .

l l

n ot li ve i n the ho u se bu t a tte n d fro m e ight O clock
,

ll
i n the m orn in g till n oo n an d fro m t w o to six P M , . .

W e w ere highly gratied wi th this i n st it uti o n which ,

appears to acco m pl i s h the O bj ects O f i ts i n te n ti o n .

T he Gr dds coi Goshp i t d the town hospital ,

-
,

or the c i vi hospita whic h form s on e Of the

,

m ost co n sp i c u o u s O bj ects i n O d essa stan ds i n an ,

elevated airy sit u ation n ear the bar i i e r Of Kher

,

l
son . It is a n e edice t wo stories i n heig ht , ,

w ith col u m n s i n fro n t but 1 s stran gely di sgured

,

by the apertures of n um erou s ven tilators i n i ts

walls The lower story we fo un d occ upie d by a
.

dirty k i tchen half- e d wi th dried weeds for fuel ;

the baths ; the apothecary s shop ; store roo m s ; the -

c o un cil -cha m ber ; an d the phys i c i an s roo m s The .

N 2
1 80 TH E TO WN -H O S PI T AL .

pati en ts ar e all placed i n the u pper story an d th ei r

-
,

n u m ber a m o un ted on the day of O u r v i sit to 2 64 ;

Bes i des ci vil patien ts priso n ers an d deserters who

, ,

are gu arded are also adm itted an d on e roo m is

, ,

allotted for the acco m m odati on O f fo un dli n gs

E xcellen t corri dors r u n thro ugh both stori es bu t ,

the room s are n ot well arranged for a gen eral hos

pital ; their ceili n g is u n n ecessarily lofty an d the ,

wi n dows are covered by i n tern al b u ildi n g to the

hei ght Of ab out seve n feet from the oor Th ough

-
.

ven tilators are m ade i n the walls both above an d

below the wi n dows w efo un d the air very bad for
,

w an t l of re n ewal Th e tr u t h is that it wo uld be

.
,

dan gerou s to O pe n the i n feri or ve n tilators wh i ch ,

ar e as low as the pat i e n ts beds an d that the s upe
.

l l l
r ior o n es are at s u ch a height an d so s m all as to , ,

b e altogether i n adequate for v e n ti lation especially ,

i n cal m s u m m er weather How dreary are these .

de m i d un geon s for the sick partic u larly for c on

-

v a e s c e n t s an d h ow ba d y calc u lated for the c u re

,

O f n u m erou s diseases ! O n aski n g for an e x p an

a tio n O f this s i n g u lar m oder n str u ct u re we were ,

told that the physic i an who atte n ded there was Of

,

l
opi n ion that light gen erally had an I nj
, u r i ou s e f
fe c t
u pon the sick an d that i n the del i ri u m O f a

fever i n divid u als m ight thro w the m selves fro m

,

u n protected wi n dows I co n cl u de that this son O f

.

fE sc u ap i u S m u st have had so m e c u rio u s theory

when he proposed s u ch a prepostero u s arran ge
m e n t espec i ally as there e x i st at Petersb u rgh an d
,
 TII E PO L I CE -O FF I C E . 1 81

Mos c ow both ci v il an d m ilitary hospitals which

,

m ight ser v e as m odels for the whole world Bad .

s m ells an d lth m e t u s at every step ; an d we were

glad to escape fro m an i nsti tu ti o n SO ill arra n ged .

It m u st be m u ch alter ed si n ce Castel n au a fe w

e ars a o s oke of i t i n term s O f ad m iratio n It

y g , p .

appears that n o bla m e attaches t o the ar ch i tect ,

l
whose plan was m odied by a board of di rectors .

A wh i te washed e dice ador n ed wi th col umn s

-
, ,

an d with a gree n pai n ted roof which st an ds n ear

-
,

the cathedral had an i m pos i n g a spect an d cau sed

, ,

ou r e n q u iries We were told i t w as the P o ic e

.

O i ce bu t we fo u n d that tho ugh part O f it

'

is so occ up i ed an d part by th e m agi stracy yet

, ,

that the chief part form s a priso n What a c on .

l
t r ast did its i n terior prese nt to t he i m pression s
which had bee n r aised by its exterior ! It co n tai n ed

2 64 p riso n ers m a les an d fe m ales whose fate was

, ,

pitiable E v ery where lth i n vario u s for m s

.
, ,

r eig n ed beyo n d descr iptio n c es t un e ver i t ab e

c oc hon ne r i e we all exclai m ed as we m ade our hasty
, ,

escape fr om its pe n t up an d dangero us effl uvia

-
,
.

Nothi n g c an m ore deeply wo u n d the fee li n gs O f

the philan thropist than the i n specti o n of the j ails
,

i n R u ssia wit h the except i o n O f those at Peters

,

b urgh an d Mosco w an d a fe w others ,

With the au g m en tatio n O f O d essa an d the ,

I n u x O f its e m igra n t pop u latio n was also aug ,

m e n t e d the taste an d the d es i re to e njoy the

.

pleas ures Of polished society A te m por ary .

N 3
1 82 TH E TH E ATR E .

The atr e, i n w h i c h represen tati ons took plac e i n the -

l
R u ssian Polish an d Germ an lan guage s early
, , ,

arose but a n um ber Of years ago it w as su per

l
,

s e d e d by the erecti on of an elegan t st on e th e at r e ,

l
accor din g t o a plan of M Thom on ; t he fr on t Of.

wh i ch i s or n am e n ted by a p er sty e supp or ted by .

l
c ol um n s I n i t R u ss i an Poli sh an d Ger m an
.
, ,

plays an d Ital i an oper as have b e e n per for m ed

, ,
.

So on after our arr ival at the i nn at O des sa a b il ,

w as p ut i n t o ou r han ds an noun c i n g on e of Kot

,

z e bu e s plays i n R u ssi an an d an Ita i an opera
,
for ,

the eve n i n g s am u se m e n t The i n terior O f the ,

theatre we foun d well -arran ged an d n ot in elegan t , ,

bu t badly l ighted We could n either praise the

.

l
perform an ces Of the R u ss i an actors Of the Italian ,

l
troop n or of the orchestra ; althou gh they were
,

l
s uperi or t o what w e had expected i n a town SO
r ece n tly k n ow n t o the world O n the 2 d O f May.
,

we w ere prese n t whe n the opera I Tur c o i n

I ta ia was represe n te d i n which Madam e Cata
,

an i a r elation of the fam ou s Catalan i was the

, ,

l
p r i ma donna We were m u ch pleased with this per
.

for m an c e Madam e C atalan i has an agreeable

.

coun ten an ce but tr op d embonp oin t to ren der he r
,

gu re attracti ve Thou gh her voice was n ot the

.

Cata ani s yet she i s a good si n ger an d n o bad ac
, ,

tress The Italian opera i s m uc h liked at O dessa

.
,

at which we n eed n ot be s u rprised sin ce the ,

Italian lan gu age i s ge n erally spoke n there T he .

rep r ese n tati on s Of co ur se are very freq ue n t The

, , .
 TH E A S SE M B L Y R OOM S - TH E CA T H E D R A L 1 83

l
. .

troop w ere greatly patro n ised by Coun t L an gero n ,

the govern or ge n eral O f New R uss i a

-
.

That t he people O f O d essa m ight have vari ety Of

e nj oym en t A ssem by r ooms were m an y years ago
,
-

erected by Mo n si e u r R ai n au d an d we u n derstood , , ,

are well atte n ded The great oval hall wh i ch i s

.
,

s u rr o u n ded by a gallery supported on n u m e r o u s

( ,

col um n s i s u sed for the do uble p u rpose Of ball

,

l
r oo m an d an E x c hang e where the m e r chan ts so m e
, ,

ti m es tran sact the ir affai rs thou gh they gen erally ,

"
pre fer the Cafe at t he i nn i n which we lo dge d ;
.

an d wh i c h was lled fro m m or n i n g t ill n i ght espe ,

l
c ia
y by Jews w h o were e n gaged m ore i n eati n
, g ,
,

dr in k in g an d playi n g at differe n t gam es than i n

, ,

m ak i n g bargai n s .

A m on g th e p u bli c ed ices of O d essa the Cathe ,

d r a dedicated I believe to Sai n t Nichol as stan d s

, , , ,

the m ost con spic uo u s It is n ely situ ated i n the .

ce n tre of the town an d i n the m iddle of an i m ,

m e n se sq uare s u rro un ded by trees an d by a bal u s

, ,

trade i n which ar e fou r gates correspon di n g to the

,

fo u r car di n al po i n ts This ch u rc h i s of con sider.

able size ; i t is b uilt in the form Of a cross an d ,

s u rm o un ted by a large c u pola Two of its facade s .

l
p rese n t n e porticos each with a row of col um n s , .

Its i n ter i or is very chaste spaciou s an d ele , ,

gan t an d i ts oor i s form ed of wh i te an d grey

,

m arble We re m arked som e other Greek ch u rches

. ,

as wel as the R om an Cathol i c ch ur ch the ch ur c h ,

N 4
1 84 TH E

l
Q UA R A N T I NE -E N G L I S H R AC E S

l
. .

of the R ask b n ik s or Sc hi sm at i c k s an d the Jews
, ,

syn agogu e .

The Q uar an ti ne w i thi n the fortres s i s an exten

, ,

sive e stablish m e n t an d i s described by Cast e n au

, .

I n m any parts it i s i n co m plete ; an d as Coun t L an ,

geron well re m arked i t r equi r es a n ew or g ani s a

,

t i on but there are n o fun ds an d Q ue fa i r e 9
,

Havi n g exam i n ed this establish m e n t on the 1 2 th ,

h e 1 st N S of May we set O ff; a fter an e arly

! t ] . .
,

d i n n er t o the r ace gro un d an d could al m ost h ave

, ,

believed o u rselves tran sp orted to E n glan d Nu . .

m e r ou s te n t s were pitched the co u rse w as r oped ,

i n an d an i m m en se c o n co ur se of people of all
, ,

r an k s , was asse m bled on foot or drove abo u t in ,

differe n t ki n ds Of Ger m an Fre n ch Polish R u ss i an , , , ,

l
an d eve n E n glish c arr i age s E n glis h ge n tle m e n
, .
,

dressed i n all the gau dy l i very O f j ockeys ro de ,

their Ow n horses n i n e O f who m started an d fou r

, ,

w ere d i stan ced the r st h eat Duri n g the third .

l
h eat a Koz ak m o un ted u po n an O d hal f starved
, ,
-

black pon ey accom pan ied the fore m ost horse an d

, ,

passed the wi n n i n g-post together with it to the ,

l ll
great am use m en t O f t he spectators We were told ,

i t was i n agitation to have E n gl i sh race s a nn ua ly

at O d essa .

O n a delightful eve n i n g we we n t to the E t a _

b i sseme n t I mp er i a d A g r i cu t ur e which lies at a ,

short distan ce fro m t he tow n an d was fou n de d l in ,

t he year 1 8 1 9 It is i n fact a n u rsery for fr uit

.
, ,

an d forest trees It occ upies s eve n ty v e deciati n e

.
-
 AG R I C UL T UR A L E ST A B L I SH M E N T .
COM M E R CE . 1 85

of lan d whic h are su rro un ded by e n cl os u res an d

,

we m ay j u dge O f its prosperity by the state m e n t we

rece i ved that it con tai n ed
, yo u n g tree s an d
shr ubs It is u n der the direction of Mo n sie ur de
.

Sch m itz of Germ an extraction an d does hi m gr eat

, ,

h on ou r I n the so u th O f R u ssia wh ere n ature has

.
,

bee n so parsi m o n i o u s of wood this establis hm e n t ,

m ay pr ove O f the highest i m portan ce as it easily ,

affords the m ean s to propagate orn am e n tal plan t .

a t i on s or forest s for
, timber an d r e wood T he - .

E m peror gives t e n tho u san d ro ubles an n u ally

for its s upport the town has also liberally co n tri
b uted an d besides it has i t s ow n prots by sales
, .

We were told that already above rou bles

had bee n expe n ded on this n ursery a su mwh i ch ,
'

see m s t o be t oo extravagan t to be tr u e

l
O d essa m ai n t ai n s Comm e r ce with Fran ce Spai n , ,

Italy the L evan t A n atolia Hu n gary Germ a n y

, , , , ,

E n glan d Moldav i a Wallachia Rom elia &c

, , In , , .

ge n eral the articles Of i m portatio n ar e wi n es cot

, ,

t on st uffs per fum es s hawls O i

-
, spices tobacco
, , , , ,

dri ed fr ui ts liq u e u rs s u lp h ur, Par m esan cheese

, , ,

porcelai n cloth e ngr avi n gs p ap e r &c For som e

.
, , , ,

l
ti m e aft er the fo un dati on O f Od essa the On ly ar ,

ti e le exported were two ki n ds of grai n Bu t withi n .

,

l l
the last t e n or twel v e years a great variety Of m e r
c h an d i s e has bee n exported as Fre n ch bean s peas , , ,

an d other leg u m es b u tter cav iare tal o w hog s
, , , ,

lard can dl e s car ds bar iron red leather hides

, , ,
-
, , ,

fur s,
a
i n e n i r on m onge r y te sp e c i a y fro m Tu
_ , la) ,
 lll
1 86 C O M M E R CE R F A UD S A T TH E C UST O M -H O USE .

starch C halk he m p, li n t tar w ax w ax -can dles

, , , , , ,

horse hai r isin glass he m p O i l i n see d O i sh O i

-
, ,
-
,
-
,
-
,

l ll
hon ey potashes rh ubarb soap bristles; tob acco
, , , , ,

salt beef pork he m p see d j un iper -ber r i es m ats

, ,
-
, , ,

ti m ber &c &c , . .

The followin g table taken fro m Reui lly s an d ,

Caste n au s w orks Wil gi ve a p r etty acc u rate i dea
,

O f the tr ade O f O d essa d u r i n g a n um ber of year s .

It m ust be re m em bere d that i n gen era t he export

, , ,

ati o n has greatly exceeded the i m portati on he n ce ,

m a n y sh i ps arr i ved an n u ally i n ballast I co uld .

n ot O btai n an y acc u rate doc u m e n ts at O d essa w i th ,

respect t o i ts com m erce S i n ce the ye ar 1 8 1 3 , .

Ye ar . Im p ort ation . E xp ortatio n.

I k n ow n ot the exact exte n t t o wh i c h the crown

is defrau ded at O d essa ; but I have reaso n to be ,

lieve that the ve n al i ty i s as great at i ts c ustom

,

h o use as i n those of the other se a-p or t town s i n

 l
R ussia ;
ruption
bi i ty .
an d,
FA N C Y W O R K
- IN

as i s well k n o wn the i r gen era cor

an d rog u ery exceeds the bo u n d s O f credi

B ut i t is n ot o n ly by the se a port s that

R U S SI

,
A .

l
1 87

s m uggled goods e n ter R u ss i a O n the fron ti ers Of .

Polan d for som e ti m e past a n e fari o u s tr afc has

, ,

bee n carri e d on to a great exte n t The stam p s of .

the reg ular c u stom ho u ses have been i m itated an d

-
,

the wares have r eached Moscow an d fro m then ce ,

have bee n despatched all ove r the e m pire The se .

reas on s together with the fact that for s o m e year s

, ,

past the m arket i n Petersb u rgh h as bee n gl utte d

,

w i th B ritish m an ufactures s u fc i en tly explai n t he

,

cau se O f Manchester Glasgow an d Paisley plai n

, , ,

an d fan cy m u sli n s bei n g sold at aston ish i n gly low

,

prices i n M O S C O W There is an other cau se which

.

powerfully operates agai n s t the sale O f owered

an d e m broidered m u sli n s O f Britis h prod u ctio n ;

they are n ot val ued by the n ob ility they are on ly ,

p u rchased by servan ts or by the i n ferior classes O f

,

society .

The fact is that the R u ssian s are far s uper i or t o

,

the E n glish i n tam bou ri n g cedin g oweri n g an d , , ,

e m broideri n g They have bee n taught all ki n ds O f

.

the m ost beau tifu l n eedle work by the Germ an s -

an d by the Fre n ch an d have s u cceeded well i n

,

the m Dresden work parti c ularly h as attain ed

.
, ,

the greatest perfecti o n Few of the R u ss ian ladi e s

.

occ upy the m selves with s u ch e m ploym e n t ; bu t

m an y O f the m have a n u m ber O f wo m e n slaves w h o ,

are s olely devoted to fan cy-w ork an d i n the cap i

 l
l
1 88

ta ,
'

t hose

c i ne d t o have a n y tro u ble

'
PO PU L

who have n ot s uch people Or are n ot i a

A T I ON

c an at all t i m es
p ur
OF

,
O D ES S A

,
.

l
chase what they W an t i n the repo si tori es an d shops
'

Of for e i gn e r s an d e v e n O f R u ss i an s The sam e th i n g

, .

m ay be do n e i n all the ch i e f gover n m e n t tow n s

t hro ugho ut t he e m pire eve n at Tobo lsk an d per , ,

h ap s a so at K am t c hatk a I m ake m ore pa r tic u lar .

l
m e n ti o n O f these c i rc u m stan ces th a n th ey wo uld

l
otherwi se m eri t beca use eve n trii n g occ up atio n s
,

t e n d t o the advance m e n t O f ci v ilisatio n

I n an .

other p oi rit O f vi ew this i n form atio n m ay have i t s

,

va u e by preve n ti n g so m e fro m se n di n g i m proper

l
goods to the R ussian m arket ; as they are rea ly a
dr ug there an d O f co u rse are sold with great loss
, .

The followi n g state m e n ts tho ugh they do n ot ,

always correspo n d will still e n able u s to follow th e

,

progress i ve m arch O f the P op u at i on of O d essa ;

bu t it m u st be re m e m bered that the rapid i n crease ,

W as c hi e y c au se d by i m m i gr ati on I n O d essa ~

.
*
,

were i n ,

ac c o rdi g t
n o Si rdca , about 8000 s ou s l
R illy
eu , 45 00

l
C tl as e n au, 7 000 t o 8 000

R illy
eu , 8 0 00 t o 9000
St c h k at of,
S i rd
ca , to
V s v o j
o s k ii to

C ast el n au , a bov e

This c o e i t w ord i opp o e d t o m igrati a d m s

1
nv n en s s e on , n e an

t h i ux
e f fore ig r s i t
n o om c oun t ry
ne I t i fre q ue tly
n o s e . s n

u ed i
s t he Q uart e rly R e i e w
n v .
 l
P O PU L A T I ON . OF . O DS S A . 1 89

1 82 0, ac c o rdi g t o C
n l
as t e n au , abov e

1 8 2 3, V s v o j
o sk ii , about to

l
M D P ad t . e r ,

1 82 4, M D p i bo e . u n, a v

1 92 8 , b
(y an ti c ip at io ) M De P ad t n . r , 2 00, 000

Of the di ffere n t n atio n s w hich co m pose the p o

l
u at i on of O d essa the Greeks are the m ost n u m e

ll
rou s an d co n s i st O f a fe w wholesale but m ore
, ,

retail m erchan ts an d work m en There are fewer

, .

R u ssian m erchan ts bu t a great m an y servan ts as , ,

carters i svos c hz cs or carri age dri vers an d work

, ,
-
,

m en . A m o n g the Po e s there are scarcely any

m erchan ts bu t n u m ero u s i n divid u als i n a serv i le
,

capacity The Italian s hav e established m an y c om

.

m e r c i a ho u ses an d a m o n g the m are so m e retailers

,

an d artisa n s The Fre n ch the Germ an s the Spa

.
, ,

n i ar d s an d the E n glish are n ot n u m ero u s

, bu t they ,

are by far the m ost wealthy an d po werful citizen s .

The Jews are ab un dan t an d a fe w of the m are

i n v ery easy circ um stan ces ; so m e are retailers ,
"

tavern keepers artisan s or bakers an d others are

-
, , ,

u s u rers The pop ulation O f O dessa with that of

.
,

ll
the tow n lan ds also i n cl u des som e Ar m e n ian s
-
, ,

l
The se s t at e m e t a e t ak e from L e t tre s u O dessa p a
n s r n s r , r

l l
Sic ard 1 8 1 2 ; V oy ag e e Grim e p a J R e illy 1 8 06 ; E s ai
,
n , r . u , s

H i t oi e d e a No ell e R us si e p a C as t e l au 1 8 20 ;

su r s r uv ,
r n ,

lll l
Great D i c t i o ary Of t h e R s ia E m p ire
'

n by St c hk at of u s n , ,

1 8 0 1 9 ; Dic tio aire G og r phi q u e His t ori q ue d e

- nn E m pi e a - r

d e R u ssie 1 8 1 8 1 8 23 p a M V s o oj
,
kii ; Parallele d e a
, , r . v s

P i a c e A glai se t R u s p a M d e P adt 1 82 3 ;
u ss n n d Oh
e s e, r . r , an

Puissa c e d e A n g e t e e e t sur c ell e d e a

se rvat i o s ns ur a n rr

R us ie p a M D pi
s , 1 8 24
r . u n, .

1 90 P OPU L A TI O N OF O DIa
I S SA .

s om e Karaite Jews so m e Tartars an d som e Mol

, ,

d avi an s The e n vi ro n s of O dessa prese n t a pleas

.

i n g sight T he for m er ar i d step i s n ow covered

.

by Village s an d farm s an d c ulti vate d el ds wh i ch

, , ,

n ea r the to w n are i n term i xed w i th v i llas n u rser i es

, , ,

an d p u bl i c an d pr i vate gar d e n s It has bee n ,

r ecko n e d by s o m e that the i n hab i tan ts w i th i n ,

the distan ce of a h un dred versts of O dessa am o un t ,

to th i rty or forty tho u san d an d occu py between ,

fty an d si xty Villages wh i c h see m s rather an ex

,

tr avagan t state m e n t The s u rro u n din g co u n try

.

n ow fu r n i shes the tow n n ot o n ly with fr u its herbs , ,

&c but als o with d iffere n t art i cle s of com m erc e

. .

The pop u lati on O f O dessa w as certain ly a ug

m e n t e d i n 1 8 20 i n co n seq u en ce of the i m
,

m igratio n of m an y Greeks bu t i ts prosperity was ,

n ot i n crease d The i r d i spers i o n soon afterwards

.
,

an d the depart u re of s o m e foreig n ers i n co u se ,

u e n c e of t he state of trade m u st have co un ter

q ,

balan ced the i n crease I n 1 8 22 t he co m m erce

.
,

of O d ssa was n early at a stan d The u n certai n ty .

Of w ar betwee n T u rkey an d R u ssia ; and the

qu esti o n th e n ag itated whether thi s town sho uld
,

r e m ai n a free port or n ot palsi e d com mercial

,

e n ter pri se ; an d large qu an titi e s of goods ordered

fro m Great B r i tai n w ere rap i dly co un ter or d ered - .

I n dee d i t m ay be collected fr om what I h ave

,

s a i d above that the lyce um the qu aran tin e the

, , ,

prison an d the other p u bl i c in stitu tion s were all

,

i n a stat e of di sor d er or de c ay ; that t he Ital i an

i
 l
O DS S A A FRE E PO R T . 1 91

o pera alon e see m ed t o o u ri sh ; an d that the days of

l
the giganti c an n u al i n crease of p op u at i on of c om ,

m erce an d O f wealth whic h di sti n g ui shed the go

, ,

ve rn m e n t of the late Du e de R i chel i e u h ad passed

away .

l
I m ust n ow a l u de t o an i m por tan t ci r c um stan ce .

I n 1 8 1 9 a r esol utio n w as taken of m aki n g O d essa

,

a free port : a m eas ure the propriety of wh i ch the

,

Du e de Richel i eu had lon g u rged The au n u u .

c i at i on O f th i s eve n t by an u cciz of the E m pero r

Alexan der on the 2 7 th O f A ug u st was celebrated

, ,

l
with feastin g an d rej oi ci n g an d th e sp i ri t an d ,

e n terpri se of the I n hab i tan ts rose t o e n th u s i as m .

B u t j oy was soon followed by perplex i ty an d gri ef ;

for at the e n d O f three years it w as i n agi tation ,

t o abol i s h the pr i vi ege of c e p or t tho u gh it had ,

bee n guaran teed I th in k for fo urtee n years At

, , .

the tim e of our visit to O de ssa all eyes were t u rn ed

on Mr R ibaup i e rr e
. director of the ban k at Pe
, ,

t e r sbur gh w ho had bee n s e n t by the crow n t o

'

assi st a com m i ttee i n determ in i n g the vi tal qu es

ti on whether O d essa shou ld r em ain a free port
,

or n ot The s ubsequ e n t r esol uti on that i t sho u ld

.
,

be a fr ee port has given li ttle st i m ulu s to trade

,

d urin g the last eighteen m on ths ; at thi s m o m en t

i t i s i n a very lan g uishi n g con d iti on ; an d w i th .

ou t regard to the o u rishi n g acco u n ts of Messrs De .

Pr adt D up in &c I qu esti on w he t her the pop u lati on

, , .

O f O dessa a m o un ts t o sou ls Nor c an we .

be su rp ri se d at th i s c ir c um stan ce The bad an d .

1 92 I M PO L I T I c C O ND U C T O F TH E GO V E R NM E NT

ll
.

faithless policy of havi n g allowed the qu estio n to '

be can v assed as to O dessa r e mai ni ng a free port

,
'

or n ot be fore the exp i r atio n of the t i m e to whic h

,

l
it was g uaran teed must prove a death b ow t o its

-
,

i n terests u n less the crown act w ith great sp i rit

,

an d liberality Who w ill n ow ven t ure his capita

.

upo n the faith O f the R u ssian Gover n m e n t i f n ot ,

a m ost se d u c e d to it by the prospect O f great

'

advan tages A n d perhaps the bes t p olicy that

.
, ,

co u ld be adopted wo uld be i n stan tly to gran t

them Fortu n ately both the E m pero r an d t he
.
,

govern m e n t seem t o be su fcien tly al i ve to the

great i n terest at stake .

I n a co m m u n icati o n fro m St Petersb u rgh dated .

,

A u g u st 2 7 th 1 8 2 4 it is afrm ed that the di

, , ,

r e c ti n se n ate i n a ge n eral asse m bly of the sectio n s

g ,

s i tti n g at Moscow pro m u lgated by an a hda of t h e

, ,

9t h J uly vario u s additio n al arti cles (twe n ty n i n e i n

,
-
"

n u m ber ) to the ord i n an ce reg u lati n g the tri b u n al

of c om m e r c e at O d essa wh i ch by the advice of the

, ,

co un cil of the e m p i re have bee n approved of by the ,

l
E m peror .

The a ppoi nt m e n t of Co un t V or c mt sof, as go '

vern or ge n eral of New R u ss ia i n place of Co un t

-
,

L an geron see m s to be extre m ely j u di cio u s

, T he .

latter I be i eve to b e an excelle n t g e n eral ; but

, ,

better tted for the eld of battle than for the m a

n a e m e n t of civi l affai rs We received t he m ost
g .

Vide Globe an d Tra eller

v , p
Se t 1 8 , 1 8 2 4
. .
 l
A N E CD O TE S . 1 98

p oli te atten ti o n fro m hi m wh ile at O dess a an d ,

m ore frequ e n t i n v itatio n s to di nn er tha n w e c ou d

accept of I believe it was i n his house t hat the
.

two followi ng an ecdotes were related to u s

A fe w years ago whe n hi s I m peri al Maj esty
,

Alexan der was on a vi sit to the south ofR ussia he , .

stoppe d for a short tim e i n on e of the c h i ef town s

, ,
,

where res i ded a di sti ng ui shed gen eral as gover n or ,

who is rem ark able for abse n ce O f m i n d The E m .

e r or havi n g e n tered his cabi n et w i th hi m sat down

p ,

to sign som e papers : the Govern or walked about

the room ; but at le n gth he walked out of it s hut ,

the door locked it an d left the ho u se He was

, , .
,

soon re m i n ded of his m istake by on e of the Sove

reign s aides de cam p who followed hi m S uch
- -
, .

an actio n gav e r i se to n o s m all degree of laughter

'

at the Govern or s e x p e n c e i n which t h e ,

who was n o stran ger to the ecce n tri city Of his c on

d uct heartily participated
,
.

l
The sam e ge n tlem an w hen at Petersbu rgh w as
, ,

ad m itted to the E m peror s cabi n et w ith som e o ther

,

gen erals He laid his cocked hat upon a c hair

.
-
,

u po n w hich was a n other hat He spoke with his .

Maj esty on b u sin ess ; bu t w hi e Alexan der c on

verse d w ith an othe r O fc e r he p ut hi s ow n hat ,

u po n his head an d placed the other u n der hi s

,

ar m. He again addressed his Maj esty w ho pre ,

served h i s gravity the n took leave an d d epar ted

, , .

When out of doors he atte m pted to p ut on his hat ,

but hi shea d w as pre occ up i e d : h e di scovered h i s

-

V OL . I . O
 l
1 94 D E PA R T U R E F R O M O D ES SA .

m istake that w hich he took for his ow n hat an d

:

carried u n der his ar m was the E m peror s while
, ,

h i s ow n was u po n his h ead It is said that the

.
-

E m peror was a s o highly a m u sed by th i s adve n tu re

l
.

The i m portan t chan ge which has j u st take n place

i n the aspect of affairs between T u rkey an d R u ssia
i s likely to be O f great u tility to O dessa O n the .

2 9th of A u g u st last the E m peror se n t an u kdz to

the Ofce offoreign affai r s to the fol owi n g effect
,

l
Con side ri n g that t he O tto m an Porte has c on
s e n ted to the evac u at i o n O f Wallachia an d Molda

vi a has adopted n e w m eas u res respecti n g the trade

,

an d n avigation of the Bosphor u s an d has re m edie d ,

the grievan c es an d di i c u t i e s wh i ch opposed t he

ren ewal of our d iplom atic relati o n s with it we have , ,

l
for these reaso n s an d i n the hope that w e m ay su c
,

c e e d i n co n cert w i th our allies

,
to p ut an e n d to
,

the s ufferi n gs wh i c h affect the E ast resolved to ap ,

po in t ou r pri vy co un sellor R ibau p i e r r e to be our

, ,

am bassador extraord in ary an d m in ister p e n ip ot e n

t i ar y to the O tto m an Porte .

Mr R ibaup i e r r e is a man of talen ts has a ge

.
,

n eral k n owledge of diplo m acy an d hav i n g bee n , ,

di r e c t or of t he ban k at Petersb u rgh is well acqu ai n ted ,

w i th the m o n i ed an d m ercan tile i n terests of R us

sia an d especially w ith the state an d wan ts of
,
:

O d essa .I shou ld there fore an ticipate a great

, ,

chan ge to the advan tage O ft h e town i f h i s co un sels ,

m eet with d ue atten t i o n .

O n the 4th of May we le ft O dessa wi th Co unt

 C O BL E Y . 1 95

de Witt , for Phdor ovk a, gladly e m bracin g the Op

p o r t un i t
y to exa m i n e the syste m of m ilitary colo

l
n i sat i on i n detail with the co m m an der i n ch i e f i n - -

the so uth of R ussia We repassed the barrier of

.

Khers on by whi c h we had e n ter e d foun d the road

, ,

l
l
excessively bad thro ug h the sub u rb O r village of
Pe r sip an d all the way t ill we cam e t o a i mcin
, ,

l
wh ere we t urn ed to the east ; w e then coasted the
sea an d fo un d it m u ch better I n the cou rs e of
, .

l
the rst station we traversed thr e e sha ow i ma ns

'

we re m arked but fe w hou ses so that the sight of a ,

good village called Sst c hv e k a or A e x n dr k a

, , ,

l
which belon ged to the Co un tes s PotOtsk ii n i n e ,

j
versts from A d u i k w as an agreeable r el i ef fro m
,

the dreary sa m en ess of the s urro un di ng sce n ery .

l
I n our progress to the n ext statio n we travelled
alo n g the se a sh or e crossin g z mcins an d ploughin g
'

p
,

thro ugh d e ep sands at a pace wh i c h allowed m e

,

ti m e to exam in e the plan ts by the way-s i de About .

l
hal f a verst fro m the post hou se the s m al m an sion
-
,

of Ge n e ra l Cobley ,on the side of a lake sur ,

l
r o un ded by a garde n a n d trees an d w i th a ch u rch ,

adj oi nin g to i t upon a ri sin g gro un d had a lively ,

l
appea r an ce a m i d the desert co un try Ge n era .

Cobley was lo n g i n the R u ssian servi ce but havi ng ,

r ea i sed so m e property he n ow passe s his tim e

,

either here or at O d essa We were told that he is

.

a sin gu ar character an d speaks m an y lan guages

, ,

but n ot on e of the m well .

The adj oi n i n g st at i on has differe n t n am es whi ch

'

0 2
 l
1 96 OL BI A

l
.

l
are apt to c o n fo un d the stran ger It i s called Teli .

gi ll fro m the imrin an d river which r un s fro m it ;

,

Troitskoye (Tri n ity) from the ch u rch ; an d m ore

,

ll
l
fr bqu e n t y K bZz fro m t h e Ge n eral

, I f the trave l er .

sho uld m editate a visit to O t c hak of; so fam o us i n the

history of the T ur k i sh an d R u ssian w arfare or to ,

O lb i a the form er seat of a Miles i an colo n y he

, ,

m u st q uit the post road either at T e i gu or at the

-

n ext statio n ; For m any years past O lbia has bee n ,

a rich m in e for the an tiqu arian as t he reader wil ,

n d by a p eru sal of the works of Pallas Cl arke , ,

G u thri e Re u illy Castel n au &c i n which are gi ve n

, , , .
,

n u m er o u s descript i o n s an d represe n tatio n s of the

m edals an d i n scriptio n s which have bee n d i sco

vered th ere .

l
At the n ext station we left the post road an d -
,

l
arrived at K oz i n of, where we fo u n d fresh horses
w aiti n g for u s which qu ickly tran sported us to the
,
~

ban ks of the Boog Altho ugh it w as extre m ely dark

.

a n d very wi n dy an d that the river h e r e i n c u di n g

, , ,

akes on each side i s n early a verst i n breadth we

, ,

e m barked an d after con siderable app r e h e n sm n got

, ,

safe to the other side an d proc u red shelter i n the

,

ferry m an s hou se
- By Co un t de Witt s desire
.
,

w h o had preceded u s Colo n el L si t c h had se n t his

,

carriage to await our arrival which we m ade u se ,

O f an d after seve n versts drive
, reached Phdor ,

ovk a at t w

o O clock i n t h e m or n i n g supped an d , ,

w e n t to bed A fter a short repose an d an e arly

.
,
 P H ED O R O V K A . 1 97

break fast we proceeded to exa m in e Ph dor ovk a i n

,

detail bu t excessively regretted that it rai n ed hea

,

vily The ho u ses of the colon ists the co m m ittee

.
,

ho use the L an casterian school &c were all vi

, , .
-

l
s i ted The precision of the boys i n their lesso n s
.
,

and their ge n eral healthy aspect was a pleasi n g ,

sight Tho ugh th e road was ext r e m ely bad an d

.

slippery yet a regi m e n t O f the cavalry of the Boog

,

l
were exercised an d we n t through their e vo u
,

tio n s wit h great celerity an d dexterity An other .

regi m e n t m an oeuvred on foot an d afterwards ,

so m e picked m e n n ext a n u m ber of cavalry ; on e

passed i n sin gle le at full gal op after the other ,

doi n g the pike an d sword exercise with s u rpri sin g

precis i o n The m ode O f u si n g the Kozak pike or
.
,

lan ce i n m aki n g a charge an d i n p urs ui t while at

,

fu ll gallop they are extre m ely expert i n ; bu t the

,

art they have of tossi n g the pike i n to the air the n ,

seizin g an d twirlin g it abo ut like the m aster ,

of a ban d with his staff; i n di e r e n t directio n s ,

asto n ished u s We were s urprised on learn i n g that

.

som e of these soldiers were very lately m ere pea

san ts an d o n ly k n ew how to han dle th e spade or
,

the plou gh .

As is cu sto m ary still a m o n g m an y of the R u s

sian s Colon el L asi tc h di d n ot partake of breakfast
,

at the sam e ti m e bu t directed his atte n tion to his

,

gu ests The offi cers all waited till we had n ished

.

our repast before they began thei rs ; a cer e m o n y

o 3
1 98 A R RI VA L

wh i c h however polite we cou d willi ngly have dis

p
,

e n se d w i th .
,
AT

Horses havi n g bee n previo u sly s e n t forward to

NI

l
K O L ARE .

l
Sabi noy we bade adie u to ou r h ospitable e n ter
,

l
t ai n e r s an d we r e agai n i n m otio n
, The road was .

h eavy i n co n sequ e n ce of the rai n : i t led thro ugh

,

l
exten s i ve plain s m an y of wh i ch had a n aked an d
,

bleak appearan ce ; bu t as we approache d Ni k o aef ,

the elds began m ore freq u e n tly to show c u

t i vat i on as w ell as so m e trees
, The j u n ction .

l
O f the Boog an d the I n g pre s e n ts an e x t e n sw e

an d n oble Vi ew the i n terest Of which was mu ch

,
.

heighten ed by a n u mber of vessels u pon these rivers .

W e cr ossed the I n gul by a oati n g bridge asce n ded ,

a hill e n ter ed Ni k o aef; an d took u p ou r q u arters

,

i n the private h o u se of a Greek which had been ,

prepare d for our reception by t h e p olice through ,

the k in dn es s of A dm i ral Greig an d i n wh i c h we ,

were well acc om m o dated It i s a very com m o n .

practi ce i n the so uth of R u ssi a an d it also prevails ,

i n the K ub an an d i n Georgia for the police to ,

s elect lodg i n gs for the co n ve n ie n ce of stran gers .

I n the se region s i n stead O f searchi n g for i n n s

, ,

fe w of w hich are goo d the traveller on h i s arr i val

, ,

i n a tow n at o n ce addresse s hi m sel f to the m aste r

,

O f pol i ce the co m m an dan t or the

, an d ,

m akes k n o wn his wan ts w hich are ge n erally at ,

t en ded to The i n habitants w ho th u s give u p

.

their hou ses for the con ve n i e n ce of travellers i n

 L O DGI NG SE L E CTE D B Y TH E P OL I CE . 1 99

r otati on are freed from so m e p ubli c b u rden s an d

, ,

m oreover they u s u ally receive prese n ts fro m the

,

i n m ates at least fro m foreign ers but the R u ssian s

,

O fte n leave th e m witho u t the s m allest ack n owledge

ll
m en t .

The eve n i n g was passed i n the m ost agreeable

an d i n eresti n g m an n er with Ad m iral Greig w h o
t ,

afforded us every facility an d con ve n ie n ce for ex

am i n i n
g N i k o a f Ad m iral Greig the .father of ,

our host as we m a call hi m for we al m ost l i ve d

, y ,

with hi m d uri n g our stay i n Ni k o ae was a n ati ve

of Scotlan d an d I bel i eve I n verkeith in g was hi s
, , ,

place of birth He i s well k n own i n the h istory of

.

R u ssia an d his m erits have n ot bee n Overlooked by

,
.

l

the author of the L ife of Cathari n e II He .

highly disti n guished hi m sel f i n the celebrated affair

O f T c h e sm ; i n deed the h on o u r of the victory

chiey belo n ged to hi m ; an d altho ugh Coun t

A e x ii O rlof was hon o u red wi th the ; title of the
con qu eror yet n either be n or eve n his s urvi vors
, , . ,

to the i r praise be it told ever forgot the ir deep ,

O bligat i o n s to Ad m i ral Greig The Ad m iral als o .

com m an ded the R u ssian eet i n the gu lph of Fi n

l
lan d i n 1 7 8 8 w hen a m e m orable con test took
, ,

place betw

l
een it an d the eet of S w ede n the iss u e ,

l
of which thou gh bravely di sp u ted was to the ad
, ,

v an tage of R u ssia He di ed loaded with hon ou rs

.
,

fro m the sovereign s of R u ssia and an excel e n t ,

exam ple to h i s coun trym e n espec i ally to n ava ,

Oi c er s ; for h e had r ise n fro m the h um b e st w alk

0 4
 2 00 AD M I R A L G R E I G .

of l ife by hi s s uperi or m erit tale n ts an d steady , ,

Con d u ct

The prese n t Ad m i ral Greig was born at Cro n stadt ,

an d , i n com pli m en t to h i s father was ra n ked as a ,

m i dship m a n at his b irth His earl i er years were

.

passed i n R uss ia but he was se n t to E n glan d for

,

his ed ucation H e after w ards we n t to the E ast

.

I n dies as a vol un teer i n the Co m pan y s service ;
an d i n the sa m e capac i ty he served i n the British

n avy so as to acq uire a thoro ugh kn owledge of

,

na vigatio n an d the d u ties of a n aval O i c e r H av

, .

l
i n g r etu rn ed to R u ssia after the vi ctory gai n ed by
,

hi s father i n the Baltic he was m ade a lie u te n an t ,

i n 1 7 8 8 an d soo n after w ards was ad van ced to the

,

l
r a n k of captai n I n 1 8 05 h e obt ai n e d the ra n k of
'

.
,

adm i ra an d was ge n erally statio n ed at Cron stadt

, .

I n the year 1 8 1 6 he was appoi n t e d ad m iral i h

,
-

C h i ef of the eet of the Black sea an d took up h i s '

r es i de n ce at N i k o aef; where he is likely to reside ,

l
u n less the report prove tr u e that he is to be m ade ,

l
m i n ister of t he n aval d epart m e n t .

Tho ugh I am aware that critics w ill scarcely

allow the passi n g stran ger to pay com pli m e n ts yet ,

i t i s di i c u t to avoid sayi n g a fe w words i n prai se

O f A d m i r a G reig The com pl ace n cy the elegan ce
.
, ,

l l

an d the dign ity of his m a n n ers together with his ,

gen eral k n owledge his i n stru ctive con versation

, ,

an d his u n oste n tatio u s hospitality, delighted u s .

These qu al i ties u n ited with tru e British feelings

, ,

s t er in g Vi rtues Con ti n e n tal ease ue ncy i n an

, ,

 l
ll
D E S C R I PT I O N OF N I K O L AEF . 20 1

l
gu ages , a com plete k n owledge of m ariti m e
an d

l
well t h for the very i m portan t
'

a ai r s e c u i ar i m
p , y
statio n which he n ow holds .

The town O f Nik o a f is s i tu ated up on a n e

'

plai n on the sou th side of the I n gI I n ea r its c on
, ,

u x w i th the Boog u n der 8 0 4 6 east o n gi t u de

, ,

an d 4 6 5 8 n ort h latit u de abo ut 7 7 m iles fro m

,

O d essa 40 m iles from Kh e r s n , 8 7 7 m ile s fro m

,

M oscow an d 1 3 62 fro m Petersb u rgh

,
.
It w as .

l
fo un ded i n the year 1 7 9 1 bu t m a d e bu t slo w pro ,

gress when Adm iral M or dvi n of took it u n der hi s

,

protecti on an d the ad m iralty of K he r s n was tran s

,

lated to it Its progress sin ce th at period has

.

l
been irregu a r so m eti m e s rapid an d som eti m es
,

slow but n o do ubt was greatly i m peded by the

, ,

advan cem ent of O dessa U n der the au spi c es of .

Ad m iral Greig it is n ow fast i m pr ovi n g

, .

The town Of Ni k o aef, con sideri n g the n u m be r

O f its b u i ld i n gs i s scattered over a vast territory
, .

All its streets are very w i de an d regu lar an d m any ,

l
are plan ted with trees on both s i des but scarcely ,

an of the m are paved Al m ost all the ho u ses are

y .

b uilt of sto n e ; t hey are separated fro m each

other by trees an d garde n s ; s carcely an y Of the m

lll
ar e of a large s i ze m an y of the m are e egan t but
'

ll
very few c an preten d t o m agn icen ce The C hief .

O bj ects wh i ch deserve n otice i n this town are -

,

the New Ch urch b uilt i n the p ublic sq u are ; the

G u i dhall (H e de Vi e ) with colon n ades ; the

E xp edi ts z or A dm i ralty for all the ports of the

, ,
2 02 TH E D EP OT DE C A R TE s A ND M U SE UM .

E ux i n e ; th e Doc k s ;

the Port ; t he D ep t dc Car i es ,

the C u stomho u se ; t he Mari n e B arracks ; the Naval

-

Hospital O f im m en se len gth the Pilot school n u

,
-
,

d er the di rection of Colo n el Ha m ilto n a Scotch ,

l l
m an ; a L an casterian s chool ; a school of arti llery

for the n avy s u ch , I believ e as i s n ot u sed i n

, ,

Britai n ; anobservatory n ear Sp assk ii an d a reser

ll
voi r i n t O W n Som e of these edi ces were n ot

.

n i shed wh e n we were at Nik o aef but n ow ar e a ,

i n an excell e n t con dit i on .

The D ep r a e Car i es i s a sm all ed ice possessi n g

.
,

little extern a attracti on Opposite Ad m i ral Greig s ,

hou se ; i t is al s o called the D ep ot O f the Black Se a ,

a n d the M u se u m ; an d i n fact i t see m s to co m b i n e

, ,

l
all the three c h aracters It has ex i sted for a lo n g .

l
tim e ; but the m u seum was begun by the Marqu is

l
de T r ave r sey H ere we re m arked a collection of
.

l
m aps charts an d n aval i n str u m e n ts as q u adr ants
, , , ,

telescopes com p asses &c bes i des electr i c ga van i c

, , .
, ,

an d ph i losophic a apparatu s an d celesti al an d te ,

r e st r i a globes ; on e se t for p ublic sale an d a n other ,

belongi n g t o t h e d ep ot for the use of th e n ava ,

.

O ffi c e rs To th is i n sti t uti o n likewi se belon gs a

.
, , ,

l
pretty exte n sive l i brary wh i ch con tain s m an y val u,

able w ork s N um erou s m on u m e n ts of ston e with

.
,

L ati n but m ore frequ e n tly w i th Greek i n scriptio n s

, , ,

which were form erly kept i n on e of the ch u rches

of Ni k o a f are n ow asse m bled together i n the
,

m u se um They as also n um erous m edals have

.
, ,

been cop i ed an d descr ib ed by the late M r A foni n .

 TH E M U SE U M . TH E D O CK S 2 03

l
.

l

in Pallas s Travels by Clarke by Reuilly an d by , , ,

the Marqu is de Castel n au Here are exhibited .

m odels O f the great n aval hospital at Khers on ; of a

l
c orp s d e ca det s to be erected at Ni k o f ; of dif fer

l
e n t Sh ips an d of c a m e s for their tran sport ; O f a

ship upon a cam el &c &c A pair of celestial , . .

an d terrestrial globes as yet u n n ished O f great

, ,

Size , a n d a pri n ti n g press were a s o am on g the ,

Oj ec t s of c ur i osi ty .

l
We r e m ar k e d a collectio n O f m i n erals an d a few
/
,

O bj ects i n d if fere n t departm e n ts of n at u ral history ,

bu t they were of n o great val u e L arge m asses of .

sto n e said to have been thrown out of the E ux in e

, ,

as if fro m a volcan o n ear Se vastop o e excited , ,

"
ou r c u ri os i ty They were of di ffe r e n t si z e s fro m
.
,

l

that of a m an s h ead t o that of three or fo ur feet
diam eter an d w ere chiey of a glob u lar or oval
,

for m an d O f a pretty reg ular s u rfac e

, They were .

h ighly p orou s an d appeared to be form ed of carbo

,

n ate of l i m e i n ter m i xed w i th S hel s

, .

l
A n u m ber of vessels lay i n t he harbou r of the
I n gul At the exte n s ive docks w e saw a fri gate of
.

s i xty fo u r gun s an d another of forty fou r g un s on

-
,
-
,

the stocks an d we w en t on board the elegan t yacht

,

of t h e ad m i ral i n c hi e i n whi c h he an nu a ly c r uiz e s
- -

l
w ith a par t of the eet of the Bl ack Sea i n order ,

to train an d exercise the O fcers an d t he seam en .

A n um b er Of gun boats both with sails an d wi th -

n u m e ro u s oars adapted for the n avi gat i o n of the

,

Dan ube i n case of w ar w i th Tur k ey w er e a r eady ,

2 04 TH E D O CK S .
SPASS K I I .

co m pleted an d the work m en were o c c upied i n the

,

con str uction of others .

The ti m ber for Ship b uildi n g com es chiey by -

the Dn p e r to Khers on an d fro m t he n c e t o Niko ,

e
:

l def All the vessels co n str u cted here are tran sported
.

l
e m pty m an y versts down the river to Gl ubokoye
, , ,

l
wherethey take i n their can n o n tackle &c an d , , .

l
proceed fro m the n ce to the Black Sea upo n cam els ,

on acco u n t O f a san d ba n k n ear K i n bour n

-
, .

T he ad m iral i n ch i ef O f the B ack Sea an d a

- -
,

l
n u m ber O f i n fe r i or ofi c e r s have their per m an e n t
.

.
,

reside n ce at Nik o aef The vice ad m irals in active

'

.
-

servi ce a n d the other O ffi cers are station ed partly

, ,

l
at Khers on an d O d essa bu t pri n cipally at S ev asto ,

l

pole i n the K r i m e a Ad m ira G reig s ho u se thou gh
.
,

by n o m ean s a palace is very co m m odiou s It c on

, .

sists O f a si n gle story an d is placed i n on e o f the

,

pri n cipal streets upo n the high ban k of the I n gu ,

on wh i ch is a bou e var d an d where hi s a

g is
, dis
played an d sign als m ade He has a good gar de n .

an d n u rsery which proves a great so u rce of a m u se

,

l
m e n t as he has a taste for an d a co n siderable
, ,

k n owledge of; botan y He has an excelle n t library

.
,

an d has tted u a co m plete pr i vate O bservat ory b

p e

hi n d the ho u se w ith wh i ch there is a com m u n icatio n

, .

The Ad m iral s coun try ho u se called Sp cis r zz is
' '

-
, ,

deli ghtfully Situ ate d on the Boog here a n oble ,

river an d i n a char m i n g spot A t a distan ce i t is

, .
,

n early co n cealed b t h e foliage of lofty an d wide

y
spread in g trees but on a n earer app r oach it b ursts ,
 S PA S SK I I . 2 05

un expectedly upon the v iew The A dm iral has ,

form ed n e w plan tati on s O f trees garde n s an d vi n e , ,

yards an d is m akin g great i m prove m e n ts ; the

,

walks are shady an d i n som e places very p i c tu r

,

esqu e I n deed s u ch a place i n s u ch a dreary

.
, ,

co un try see m ed like e n chan tm en t an d n ot w i th

, ,

s tan di n g a heavy S hower of rai n we li n gered to ,

ad m ire it O n S u n day e v e n i n g there is a pro

m e n ade at Sp assk i i ; an d a n aval ban d of m usic ,

station ed i n on e of the ships i n the Boog cheers ,

the visitors Both the ho u se i n the tow n an d this

.

l l
r u ral seat belo n g to the crown Sp assk i i was o n ce .

the favo u rite reside n ce of Pri n ce Poty m k i n who ,

greatly e m bellished it The an gle bet w ee n the .

I ngul an d the Boog which it occ upies is form ed , ,

of a horizon t a strat um of carbo n ate of li m e which , ,

like that at O dessa is lled with Shells , With .

this ki n d of ston e the hou ses at Nik o ae f are

'

ll
chiey con structed .

I n ret urn i n g towards the town an d n ot far fr om ,

l
ll
the barrier we tu rn ed aside to Vie w a fo un tain of
,

e xcelle n t water which is n ow con veyed to a r e

,

ser V O I r I Nik o aef This fo u n tai n is i n val uable

.
,

si n ce h ere as at O d essa n o good water is

, , be
fo un d i n wells Sho u ld the pop u ation O f Nik o aef
.

be do ubled or even tripled the r eservoi r w ill be

, ,

capable O f s upplyi n g all i t s wan ts .

The n e healthy cli m ate the p ure air the m o , ,

d erate ren ts t he l c h e a n e ss of provisio n s

, p an d of .
,

all articles of n ecess ity except r e-w oo d added to

, ,
 ll
2 06 P O P UL ATI O N .

the attracti on s of excelle n t soc i ety have i n d uced ,

l
a n um be r O f fam ilies to take up their reside n ce
at Ni k o aef .

By on e acco un t Ni k o aef co n tai n s 1 1 47 hou ses

, ,

l
an d fro m to i n habitan ts ; an d by
Mr V svo oj
.

sk i i s fro m 9000 t 0 1 0 000 , al m ost

, ,

all sailors w i th a few Jews By the report of

, .

the pol i ce m aster with who m we di n ed at A d

-
,

m iral Greig s i n Nik o aef i n 1 8 2 2 were 1 1 00
, , , ,

an d i n the s u b u rbs 5 00 an d i n the e n viro n s 300,

hou ses an d the pop ulation am ou n ted to 6000 i h

,

habitan ts an d fro m 4 000 to 6000 sai lors t heir

, ,

n u m ber vary i n g co n ti n u ally accor di n g to circ u m ,

stan ces The whole pop u latio n i n cl u des but a fe w

.

foreign ers besi d es those who are i n the n aval or

,

l
m ilitary servi ce .

O n the 7 t h O f M ay havi n g di n ed at an early ,

hou r at Ad m i ral Greig s an d received so m e letters ,

fro m h i m to assist u s on ou r j o u rn ey we took leave ,

l
O f Nik o aef The co un try betwee n it an d Khers on
.
,

exten di ng to abou t forty m iles presen ts m u ch step ,

.

coun try with every n ow an d the n greater or

s m aller elevati on s an d n u m ero us t um uli s aid t o
, ,

be Tartar to m bs The e n vi ron s of Ni k o aef aboun d

.

F
i n good pastu re lan d an d are well c u ltivat ed ,
.

The sam e re m arks are applicable to the vic in i ty of

K h e r sc m We had int e n ded t O S e e the m o n um e n t
.

of the d i sti n g u ished Ho w ard whi c h stan ds at the ,

distan ce of fo u r or ve versts fro m the barrier of

Khers on an d n ot far from the gr eat ro ad on wh i ch
, ,

HO WA R D S M O N UM E NT . 2 07

the verst posts are placed O ur coach m an how

-
.
,

ever deceived u s an d took a S horter road s o

, , ,

that whe n we passed the m o n um e n t we were v e ,

l
versts distan t fro m i t I m e n tion this circ u m stan c e
. :

l
for the advan tage O f fu t u re travellers It bei n g .

n early dark the road bad an d the horses fatigu ed

, , ,

we proceeded strai ght to Khers on We had .

bee n led to be i eve by our host t h e Greek at ,

'

Ni k o aef, t hat we Sho uld n d lodgin gs at a m e r

chan t s hou se with whose n am e he furn ished u s
, .

A ft er m u ch e n q uiry we fo un d th e h ou se bu t n o
, ,

l
lodgin g ; so we were glad to pass the n ight i n
som e s m all u n co m fortable room s i n the tavern of
a Jew for s uc h is n ow the best accom m odati on to
be fo un d at Kh e r s n .

I got in to a dr osh t i at break of day an d pro ,

l l
c e e d e d toward the m o n u m e n t of Howard I soon .

arrive d at the Spot but w as so m ewhat at a loss

,

w here to bestow m y tri b u te of ven erat i o n t o the

shade Of th i s great m an ; for two si m i lar p y
r am i da m o nu m e n ts form e d of the li m esto n e of
,

the cou n try rise from the p ai n at the distan ce of

, ,

a fe w fe e t fr om each other I walked roun d them .

with excited c uriosi ty an d then asked the coach

,

m an i n R u ss which was H oward s m o n u m e n t ?
, ,

He repli ed These are the m on um e n ts of t wo

,

E n glish m en I k n ow n othi n g m ore of the m
,
On .

on e side of the pedestal O f the best b u il t pyra m id ,

so m e ki n d h an d had scratched on the plaster the ,

words John H ow ard They w ere s ufci en t to
.

2 08 HO WA R D S M O N U M E NT .

x m y atten tion an d to recall every feel in g of

,

l
v en eratio n w ith which E n glish m e n m u st approach

t his sacred to m b O n the Oppos ite side Of the

.

edestal we r e O bsc u rely traced M X IT PR O PT E R

p
A L I O S : m e a n t I s uppose to be mor t uus p r op ter
, ,

a tos which I S tr u e
, .

ll

Howar d s m o n um e n t is situ ated between the

ll
coun try seat of C ou n t Pot Ot Sk ii an d the Villa of a
-

r ic h peasan t A represe n tati on of it is giv e n i n a

.

vign ette at th e head of the twe n ty third chapter of -

l

C ar k e s T r av e s It stan ds i n a hollo w s u rro un ded
.
,

by gen tle an d b e ak hi s which on the so uth an d east

,

l
are scattered with tu m ul i The gro u n d on which .

i t is placed for m erly belo n ged to a Fre n ch ge n

,

t e m an Mr Fran cois but i t i s n ow the

'

.
,

proper ty of a Greek whose n am e is Mr Gon os , .

u of at least so we were i n form ed ; but Dr

p , .

Clarke relates that Ad m iral Pr i e stm an p u rchased

,

the spot by Howard s dyi n g request ; an d that
whe n the i ntellige n ce O f the con cl us i on of the
bargai n was m ade k n own to hi m he showed great ,

satis factio n .

The reader m ay be i m patie n t to k n ow th e

m ean i n g of the other pyra m id by the side O f

Howard s A S I lear n ed upon e n quiry i t was
.
, ,

erected as a m e m orial of Capt Newm an w ho ar .

,

r ived at Kherso n w it h the late Mr Ai ton an d .

,

I n th e L ife C atherin e I I i t i s s aid that H oward w as i n

of .

t e r r e d on t h e e s t at e at D au phi n e a d t h e author lik e wi s e s p e ak s

,
n

of t h e illag e of Dauphiny But Dauphine was the nam e of
v .

a r ha
me c n t.

HO WA R D S

M O N U M E NT 2 09

l
.

asse d his l ife i n an d n ear K he r s n

m any y e ars of
p
'

H e was a person of great co m merc i al spirit, an d

w as an acq u ai n ta n ce of Howard s A fter hi s death :

a fe w y e ars ago his son i n law (or brother i n aw)

,

- - - -
,

l
Mr Stei gl itz who had then a lease Of the salt
.
,

lakes i n the K r i m e a at his ow n e x p e n c e erected ,

the pyram id i n qu estio n ; bu t upon what plau s i ble

gro u n ds it was b uilt so n ear an d so s im ilar t o

Howard s m o n u m en t I co uld n ot learn A

.
,

I could obtai n was that Capt Newm an w as like , .

w i se an E n gl i sh m an an d was worthy of su ch a ,

l
distin ctio n .

We m e t with differe n t i n divid uals who k n ew

Howard i n tim ately an d w ho ve n erated his n am e .

Mr A after praisin g hi m highly added c e tozt
'

.
, ,

a n h omm e ea tr m em en t ac tf f
'

z
'
m ats ng c om m e a

p ou ar e
'
The
. sa m e ge n tle m a n also spoke of Dr .
.

Clarke with great respect

, .

The n e w m o nu m e n t erected to the m e m ory of

Howard whi ch i s n ear the ch u rch of t he A ssum p
,

l
tion an d witho u t the barr i er of Khers on is a Sim
, ,

ple pyram id wi th poplars ar ou n d it an d is e n closed

, ,

by a high circ ular wall with an iron gate in fro n t , ,

wh i ch was locked I copied the in scri ptio n on .

the pe d estal of wh i ch the fol owin g i s a tran s

,

l ation
H OW A R D
DI ED ON TH E 20 T H JA N UA R Y ,

IN TH E YE AR 1 7 90,
IN THE 6ST H YE A R OF H I S A GE .

V OL . I . P

21 0 C A USE OF HO WA R D S D E A TH .

We were told th at his I m pe r i al Maj esty Alex

an der had gran ted the sum Of
'

rou bles for

the erection of a m on u m e n t worthy of Howar d
.
,

l
an d that this m o n u m e n t o n ly cost W e
w ere also i n for m ed by Mr K om st adi u s the civil .
,

govern or of K hers on that i t w as to be de m olished , ,

an d th at a m ore w orthy m o n u m e n t w as t o take i t s

plac e That ge n tle m an showed u s a arge bron ze

.

l

m edall i o n w i th Howard s portrait w i th sharp ,

featu re s p r o m i n e n t n ose an d large wi g which i s t o

, , ,

b e p laced i n one side of the base O f the futu re

m o n u m e n t Aro un d the m edallio n are these wor d s
.

i n Sc avon i c : I was sick an d ye Visited m e ; ,

I was i n pri so n an d ye cam e u n to m e
, .

Dr Clarke has fu rn ished so m e i n teresti n g details

.

respecti n g Howard s ill n ess death a n d fun eral T h e , , .

follow i n g i n for m at i on was deri ved fro m Mr Ko m s .

l
t adi u s . I n the m o n th of Nove m ber 1 7 8 9 Howard ,

w as r equ ested to visit Made m oiselle D u ri n g that ,

ge n tle m an s aun t who l i ved on the ba n ks of the
,

Dn p er , at the distan ce of te n m iles fro m Khers on

I n a light O d fashio n ed d r ess i n silk stockin gs

-
, ,

an d w itho ut a great coat he set O ff on horseback , .

The day w as w i n dy an d cold an d he h ad a fall ,

by the way He caught a c old w hic h was follo w ed

.
,

by a feve r an d wh i ch ter m i nate d i n death

, .
 CHAP . V .

K H E R S ON . F O R T R E SS T H E T O M B O E P R I N C E P O TYEM
THE .

KIN . TH E A D M I R A L T Y T H E G R E E K S UB UR B T H E
. .

M I L I TA R Y S U B UR B PO PUL A T I O N D I S A DV A N T A G E S O F
. .

K H E R S ON I T s P R E S E N T S T A T E K A B A R S D E PA R T UR E
. . . .

T H E I N G U L ET S P L A N T s T A R T A R S WI T H B R CH A s
-
. .
U .

B E R I S L AP EERR IES
. OF T H E D N EPE R A M US I N G C E NE .
~
S .

P ASSA G E OF TH E DN f: PE R

. K A C H 6V K A .
P fZR E K O P .

I TS F O R T R E SS T H E A R M E NI A N B A z AR SA L T L A K E S
. . .

F O O L I S H P R A C T I C E A N E CD O T E S O F A T A R T A R GI I S L A
. .

A T A R T A R V I L L A G E DY I I R M E N D E G E N E R A C Y O F T H E
.

.

T A R T A R s T H E E M PE R O R A L E X A N D E R
.
S A R A B UZ E S UL . .

TA N K A T T I GH E R R I R I M G H E R R I
- S YM P H E R O PO L E I T S
- . .

F I NE C A T H E D R A L I T S P R E S E N T S T A T E I T S C L I M A T E
. .

A T A R T A R C O FF E E H O U S E M A H O M E DA N W O R S H I P M E
- . . .

S T E VE N M A D A M E P A L L A s L O C U S T S T A R T A R F I R M A N
. . . .

s AB L A C L O T H M A N U F A C T O R Y O F M R B OR O S DI N
.
- AR . .

R I V A L I N T H E P A L A C E or E A K T C H I S E R A I .

P 2
21 2 K H E R S ON .

KH E R S ON is Of
th e pri n c i pal town s i n the
on e

s o u th of R u ssia an d has gi ve n i ts n am e to a
,

govern m e n t Casteln au has re m arked that he is

.
,

i g n oran t of the ca u se which O btai n ed its appella

tio n fro m Pri n ce Poty m k i n for i f it w as i n te n ded ,

l
to con fuse h i story the s u ccess has bee n perfect
, .

Man y on he ari n g its n am e i m agin e that it oce n

, ,

pies the Si te O f the form erly ou rishin g rep u bl i can

town Che r son e su s whose fo u n dati on s are still

l l
, ,

evide n t i n the K r i m e a n ear Se v ast op o e , .

The geographical position of Khers on is u n der

3 1 2 6 E lo n g an d 4 4 3 7 N lat 9 1 3 m iles fro m

. . . .

Petersb u rgh 1 400 from Moscow an d 5 7 fro m the

, ,

l
E uxi n e It i es u pon the right ban k of the mcin
.
,

or i m m en se e m bou ch u re O f the Dn p e r which is , ,

here six versts broad wh e n i ts n um ero u s shoals , ,

as is frequ en tly the case are covered w ith water ,

w he n the shoals are exposed t h e r e a breadth O f ,

l
the ri ver is n ot m ore than a verst I n the passage to .

A l eshk i by t h e Dn p e r however as the boats wi n d , ,

thro ugh differen t chan n els a m o n g n u m ero u s ban ks , ,

the distan ce I S I n creased to ftee n versts Ad m i .

ral Gr ei g on his way to Se v ast Op O e gen erally

l
, ,

m ake s the passage here i n t w o ho u rs whil e others ,

e m pl oy fou r Si x an d eve n twelve ho urs on

, ,
'

, I

ian w i he d t o oblit rat e a nam of plac i

A S t h e R uss s s e es es n

u m
se a g th Krim T rt r o d ubt th w t ow w
on e a m d
a s, n o e ne n a s na e

m th t t h i t t ow m ight o lo g er b re m embere d

Kh e r sc , a e an c e n n n n e .

W h t m i r bl
a se a e n esse
 TH E F O R TR E S S .

l
accou n t of the bad n ess of the ferry boats and the
'

-
,

u n skil ful n ess of those who m an age the m .

Khers on was fo un ded i n the ye ar 1 7 7 8 was aug ,

m e n t e d an d fortied i n 1 7 8 0 an d soo n a fterwards ,

"

beca m e a f ou r i shi n g tow n and a port for vessels

fro m all co u n tries of E u rope as is m e n t i o n ed ,

already i n the acco un t O f O d essa It occ u pies a .

large space an d tho ugh the greatest part O f Hi s

,

reg ularly plan n ed an d b u ilt it has n othi n g gran d ,

or i m pos in g i n its aspect It is divi ded i n to fo ur

qu arters the Fortress the Ad m iralty the Greek

, , ,

S ub u rb an d the S ub u rb for Sailors

, .

The F or tr ess is s urro u n ded by fo sses an d r am

parts an d i s an i m m e n se e n clos u re It con tai n s
, .

l
the ar sen al a large an d n e b ui l di n g ; the tri b un als ;

the ho u ses O f the m il i tary govern or the civil ,

ll
govern or an d the co m m an dan t ; the priso n the
, ,

l
barracks ; an d other str u ctures ; all of which belon g
to t he crow n A n elegan t tho ugh s m a l n e w
.
, ,

ch u rch i n the m idst O f an e n closed ch u rch yard

, ,
-
,

a s o occ upies a place i n this divi sio n As we were .

i n form ed by a Sc avonI c I n scriptio n i n its pedi

m e n t this te m p e was dedicated to the Savio u r O f
,

the h uman race by Catheri n e II an d was perhaps

.
, , ,

i n te n ded to serve as a m o n u m e n t to the m em ory of

her pote n t favo u ri te whose ashes repose withi n i ts
,

Clarke an d som e other a uthors have all uded to

, ,

the life an d death of Pri n ce Potym k i n i n the se ,

ve r e st ter m s O f r e r obat i on an d ab h orre n ce

p A fter .

0
P O
214 TH E TOM B OF PR I N CE P O T YEM K I N .

hi s death which happe n ed on the way fro m Yassi

, ,

h i s body accordin g to Clarke was i n terred withi n

, ,

th i s ch u rc h ; but by the E m peror Pau l s co m m an d
, ,

i t was taken u p an d thrown i n to a h ole which w as ,

p u rposely dug i n the fosse with as little cere ,

m o n y as a dead dog bu t as this proceed i n g took ,

place i n t h e n ight v ery fe w were i n form ed O f t he

,

fate of the c or p s " A n othe r au thor i n for m s u s i n ,

a pathetic strai n that the re m ai n s of Pri n ce PO

,

l
tym k i n were exposed t othe birds of the
Bu t I have bee n ass u red that altho u gh Pau l se n t
, , ,

a n i m perial m a n date to ta ke u an d cast t h e b ody

p
of Pot m k i n i n to the rst hole whic h m ight b e

y
fo u n d it was n ever obeyed ; that the r e t e n c e on
,
p Z y
was m ade ; an d that it still reposes withi n the walls
O f the ch u rch t hou gh n obody c an or w i ll tell i n
, ,

what place The cofn was re m oved an d all i n sc r ip

.
,

tion s i n m em orial of Potym k i n were obl i terated ;

.

l
bu t a n e w grave was d ug an d covered over with ,

ags which had bee n p u rposely take n up an d there

the m ortal r e m ai n s of this o n ce great pri n ce were
co n sign ed to eter n al O blivion As it is n o u n c om .

m on circ u m stan ce that eve n the active an d vigi a n t

Alexan der is deceived by his n oble s an d his O f ,

cers we c an easily bel i eve this accou n t of disregar d

,

to Pau l s or ders .

Fro m u n lo c ked for eve n ts co u n tries an d d i s

-
,

Clark e s Travels p

, . 602 .

J
r No rth r
e n Sum m e r , by J ohn C arr , p 3 39
. .
 TH E AD M I R A L T Y . 215

t r i c t s,scarcely k n own or spoke n of, acq ui re a cele

br i ty to which otherwise they are n ot e n ti tled ;
,

an d , am o n g these m u st b e recko n ed Khers on

, .

Fi fty years ago what traveller of the fe w who

,
'

traversed the desert Shores O f the Black Sea ,

wo uld have pau sed to regard the Site of m odern

Khers on P At prese n t t he existen ce of this town ;
the fact that it w as the m eeti n g place of Cathari n e -

I I an d the E m p er or Jose ph th e death of Howard

.

l
w i thi n i t s walls an d th e adj oi n i n g m on u m e n ts
,

erected to h i s m e m ory an d the sep u lchre of P0

l
t y m k i n all r ecal SO m an y associatio n s w i th the
,

eve n ts of tim es gon e by that a stron g i n terest i s ,

l ikely to be excited i n the breast of a t ravellers .

I n the seco n d qu arter of the t o n the A dmi ,

r a ty w hich s erves as a Ci tadel to the fortress are

, ,

l
the d ifferen t dock s for con str u cti n g vessels of war ,

an d m erchan t vessels n ow scarcely worth n otice

,
.

It I S o n ly d u ri n g the Sp r i n g ood O f the Dn p e r -

that vessels c an be tran sported fro m h e n ce upon

cam els an d that on y when there is a large ood
,
.

Th i s had n ot been the case i n 1 8 22 so that s om e ,

l
vessel s wou ld rem ain t ill 1 8 2 3 or t he rst of the su c ,

l
c e e di n g years t h at ad m i ts of their depart u re A .

ne bas i n c ut out of the l i m eston e rock expose s

,
-
,

an exte n s i ve s u rface for the exa m i n atio n O f the m i

n e r a o i st The strat u m is the sam e as at O d essa

g .

an d Ni k o a f, an d O f the sa m e text u re Num er ous

.

m agazin es and store-h o u ses are the c hi e f e di c e s O f

t hi s d i vi si on .
21 6 GR EE K S UB U R B -M I L I T ARY S U B UR B

l l
. .

T he Gr eek S u bur b i s i n hab i ted by the b u rge sse s ,

an d co n ta i n s a Greek a Rom an C atholi c an d a

, ,

R u sso Greek ch u rch a g reat m arket an d so m e

-
, ,

estab i sh m e n ts calle d i nn s wh i ch deserve n ot even ,

the n am e Of tavern s They are ow tippli n g hou ses

.
,

l
an d h ave bill i ard -tables wh i ch are chiey e m ,
.

ployed by the Jews of who m there are m an y ,

.

here ; an d m ost of the m at least appare n tly were ,

-

i n a m iserable state

The M i i t ary S u bur b w h i c h wo uld hav e bee n ,

better n am ed th e Naval S ub u rb on ly con tai n s three ,

streets an d a si ngle ch u rch ; the ho u ses within it are

l
m ean an d are m ostly i n hab i ted by sa i lors an d

.
,

artisan s .

l
A fter the fo un dation of O d essa K her s n fell ,

grad u ally i n to a state of d ecli n e ; but of late i t s

- .

,
.

Spirit see m s so m ewhat re n ovated With r espect to .

i ts pop ulatio n ; i n 1 8 1 3 V svo o sk ii stated i t n early

, j
at sou s ; an d by Casteln au i n 1 8 20 i t i s
, ,
'

,
z

l l
m ade to a m o u n t t o which m u st be a great
exagge r ation though c oun t e n an c e d by the repor t Of
,

on e ge n tle m a n with who m w e had a co n ver sati o n .

N O di m i nu tio n O fp op ulat i o n had taken place Si n ce

1 8 20 t i t h e period of ou r visit whe n the civi go
,
'

l
,

vern or i n for m ed u s that Khe r s n co n tain ed 3 600

-
,

ho u ses; an d that the gen eral pop ulati o n i n cl u di n g ,

the sailors carpe n ters &c at t h e differen t works

, , .

O f the cr ow n a m o un te d to abo u t
, sou ls .

Before ente ri n g the barri e r of Khers on the Nava -

,
 l
D I S ADVA N T A G E S OF K HE R SoN . 217 :

H osp i tal was see n on the right at a d i stan ce fro m ,

l l
a other edices an d i n an Open h ealthy S itu at i on
, .

It is o n ly on e story i n hei ght but i s of i m m en se ex ,

te n t I regretted extre m ely that the arran ge m e n t s

.

O f our party preve n ted m e fro m exam i n i n g i t i n

.

detai A rope work n early hal f a m ile i n le n gth

. .
-
, ,

an d abou t fty wi n d m ills a n ear the barri er , ,

prese n ted a c u ri o u s appearan ce .

I n the acco u n t of O d essa I have spoken of \

,

the Obj ect i o n s to K h e r s n as a com m ercial an d ,

n aval po r t a n d
. for dock yards
, all O ff which -

l l
o ught to have bee n foresee n
,
an d to have pre ,

ve n ted the foun dati o n of a town i n so i m proper a

s it uatio n By the Dn p e r all the tim ber for Ship
.

b ui ldi n g arri ves at Khe r s n both for i ts own sup ,

an d that of Ni k o a e f an d O d essa M u ch of
' '

p y , . _

th e produ ce of the i n terior is also bro ught hither ,

an d is take n to the last m e n tio n ed tow n by lighters - .

H e n ce though Kher s n is n ever likely to be a

,

n aval or a co mm ercial port f ro m its S it u at i o n on ,

the Dn p e r i t m ay lo n g re m ain an e m por iu m for

, ,

the e quip m e n t an d arm am en t of th e e e t of the r .

l
Black Sea an d a d ep 6t for the prod u ce of th e
,

l
n eighbo u r i n g gover n m e n ts of the e m pire ; an d ,

eve n this secon dary p lace i t m ay m ain tai n m u st , ,

b e extre m ely des ir able to those who have e m barked

thei r cap i t a i n property i n t hi s town ,
.

Those wh o are an xiou s to k n ow the part i cu ars r e

s pecti n g the for m er o ur i sh i n g co m m erce O f Khe r
21 8 PR E SE N T ST ATE

l
l
OF

l
K H E R S ON K A B AK S

ll
. .

so co n s ult C work on New R u ssia ast e n au s
n, m ay .

L ike that a uthor w e were str u ck by a i r m or n e
,

et t r i ste d es habi t ans, et e man que d ac t i vi te , gu on

u

t r ouve p ar t out , e ac ep t e
'
sur e p or t et es c ha

t i er s . Few carriages are to be see n here but the
drivers as elsewhere i n R ussia m ak e m erry i n
, ,

the k abak s or tavern s pou r forth their un har m o ,

n io n s son g s an d e n gage i n m erry disqu i sition s

, , .

The i n teri or of a kab ak i s w ell represe n ted i n the

v ig n ette to this chapter .

Adm iral Grei g had g i ve n u s a letter t o V i ce

l
Ad m i ral Bi t c h n sk ii who is s tati o n ed p erm an e n tly ,

at K h ers on an d w h o i n con se qu en ce would have

, , ,

afforded every fac i l ity for the passage of the .

Dn p er to Al eshk i but as the day was very w in dy , ,

we preferred crossin g that r i ver at Be r i s af We .

had a r ap i d drive to the p ost statio n I n gul ets -

,

s o n am ed fro m the r i ver n ear whose ban ks i t

stan ds Havi n g chan ged horses we soon e n tered

.
,

l
that r i ver an d m ade ou r way over a very r ough
, ,

l
s to n y road an d thro u gh deep water
, to a ki n d ,

of m ole w here we e m barked i n a very bad ferry

,

boat an d r eached the oppos i te ban k w ithou t a c

,

e i de n t The I ng u et s though i t s n am e i s the di

.
,

m i n u ti v e of the I ng u of w hi ch we have already

spoken i s a n e r i ver at th i s season Of the year
, ,

ll
an d i s above hal f a m ile i n bre adth O n both i t s .

s i des, the hori zon tal strat um of l i m e ston e of a -

,

Vo . II . p . an d v o . iii p. . 1 33 .
 l
TH E IN G UL ET S .
PL A N T S . 21 9

yellow colo u r is co m pletely exposed an d of c o u rse

, ,

is favo u r able for the exam i n ation of t he g e o ogi st .

The speci m e n s which were detache d an d the ,

rock i n si t u exhibited beau tiful aggregates of shells

, .

l
Th i s spot also affords m u ch pleas u re t o the botan
ist for the ban ks Of the I n g ul ets are covere d
by a profus i o n Of wi ld plan ts which bloom an d
-
,

fade unn ot i ced by the i n hab i tan ts of th e s u rro un d

l
i n g d reary regions We p u shed on to Be r i s af,
through exten s i ve plai n s w h i ch produ ced but poor ,

herbage tho u gh the soil appeared to be r i ch an d

, ,

w as c overe d w i th s u c h qu an titi es O f elegan t thi stles

( C a r duus e e an s
g ) an d O ther
p la n ts that on e w-a s -
,

r eady to s u spect that they had bee n sown On .

t h e s tep s aro u n d u s the a b un dan ce Of feather ,

grass 1 a ston ished u s It e xplai n ed a c u stom c om

.
,

m on am o n g the R u ssian peasan ts an d carr i er s of ,

l
decorati n g loaded waggo n s carts an d horses with , , ,

n u m erou s b u n c h es of t hi s grass as i t i s the c u s ,

t om to do on the k i n g s birth day w i th bran che s
,
-
,

of trees an d ower s i n Britai n F eather gras s see m s .

-

to d eli ght i n the p ai n s ; for after our d epartur e ,

fro m Moscow thr oughou t New R u ss i a the K n ban

, , ,

l
and eve n G e or g i a .
we saw it c op i ou sly scattere d
,

l l
l l
f
re hing O d e a i n i t ighbourhood
I

O n t h e s teps be ore ac ss , s ne ,

an d on t h e r l i fr m th
oad e ad n g t o th I g l et s m g o en c e e n u , a on

m a y oth e r p la t
n I p i c k d p S t ll ri ori t li P ygo
n s e u cu e a a e n a s, o

nu
j
m m or C m p a
a ,
l a be t o i c i fo i
a S x ifr
nu g otyl d o V i i n a, a a a c e n, c a

p yp hi
o A lepi
a, igra Dr o phal m uysc hia a H dy
sc as n , ac ce u r n , e

s ru
a m p t

ume ra
ea d Mi rti mo t nai
, n n ua a n a

1 Stip p at an d Stip a c ap e at a

a e nn a .
2 20 T A R T A R S W I TH B UR C H A S .

over the step s whether they were fertile or bar

,

r en. The dreary wild s of K he r s n were e n li

ven ed by s om e pleasan t vi e s of the b an ks Of the

l
I n gule ts an d afterwards of th ose Of t he Dn p e r or

,

Bor ysthe n e s which are i n n i tely m ore pi ctu resq u e

, .

l l

We had ch i ey m e t K oz ak s on this day s j o u rn ey
bu t two Tartars on horseback the on e weari n g , ,

a wh ite the other a black bur e a excited our

,
.

, ,

s u rprise by the i r n ovel an d gr ote s qu e appearan c e .

The word bzi r c z a adm i ts of n o othe r tran slatio n

l
than t h at of felt m an tle It is n ear y hal f an i n ch - .

th i ck an d i s O ften covere d w ith lo n g hair for the

, ,

m ost pa r t of a black or brow n colo u r It form s . .

an i i n separable part of the Tartar s an d the m o u n.

t ai n e e r s travell i n g app ar e i every where i n the
'

K r i m e a th e Cau cas u s an d i n Geo rgi a ; an d I

,
,

, ,

b elieve i t is likew i se u s ed i n Persia

,
.
It is a .

m ost co n ven i e n t arti cle for travelli n g on hors e

l
back as we afterwards fully l earn t by e x p e
,
- ,

r ien c e an d tho ugh heavy i t i s u se ful i n all , ,

ki n ds of w eather The rays Of a stro n g m e . .

r i di an sun c an scarcely pen etrate i t it b ei n g ,

.

a b ad cond u ctor O f c a oric so that it s u pplies ,

a cool shade for the body ; heavy rai n r u n s O ff i t .

l
an d rarely reaches the Ski n ; i n cold w eather i t

keeps the person warm ; an d lastly it frequ e n tly , ,

s uppli es the place of a bed it be i n g either lai d on ,

the bar e oor or over a qu an tity of straw or bay , _

.

No traveller shou ld be w i thou t a bur c za eve n i n the ,

K r i m e a bu t espec i ally I n the m ar shes of the K ub an

, ,
l
B E R I S L AF FE R R I E S OF TH E D N EPR E 221

l
lll
. .

l
l
an d un der the variable cli mate of Georgia ; i n a
O f whic h territories i n ter m itt e n t fevers are e x c e s

si v e co m m o n an d so m eti m es attack stran gers

y ,
.

B e r i s af; or B e r i s av w as for m erly n am ed Mil

,

t op o e The an cie n t R u ssian s C han ged this i n to

.

l
B elaya V ej a an d the Tartars i n to Kizi Kerm e n
-
, .
- .

Its fo un dation is attrib u ted t o the Milesian s I t is . ,

b u ilt on t he elevated an d Slopi n g ban k of the Dn

l
per an d for m erly belon ged to the Z aporogian
,
' '

K oz ak s It i s s u rro u n ded by a good deal of c u

.

t i v at e d la nd thickly st u dded w i th wi n d m ills

, It .

ll
is a shabby an d m iserable tow n , the pop ulation
of wh i ch was said to be 2 40 0 So u s It was u n der .

ll
goi n g a thoro ugh repair whe n we passed throu gh
it an d as it is i n the Govern m e n t of Khe r sOn is
, ,

m ost likely co n verted i n to a m i it ar y c o on y Th e ~

Vi ew O f t he Dn eper an d its islan ds on t h e approach ,

l
to B ri s af; I S exte n sive an d n oble This tow n is .

c hi e r e m ar k ab e on acco un t of its bei n g on e O f

'

y
the passages of the Dn p e r by which cor n is ,

tran sported i n to the K r i m e a an d salt brought back ,

'

i n te eg as or carts drawn by oxen i m m e n se cara ,

l
van s Of which are co n ti n u ally Showin g themselves
.

i n this part of t h e c ou n t r y There is also a no

'

.
n

ther fe r r y for passage across the Dn p e r at Ni ko

pole ,
versts higher up Both here an d at B e
. .

r i s f whe n the spri n g ood f has s u bside d, oati n g

,
-

I n On e of C lark
e s pl at es a Nog ai -Tart ar i s r
c ov e e d w t iha
ban ks .
2 22 A M US I N G S C E NE

l
.

l
bri dge s ar e establ i she d w hich ar e d raw n to the
,

S ides be fore the freezi n g of that r i v er .

B y a steep desce n t we reache d the m aj estic

,

Dn p e r an d had the m or t ic ati on to S ee a the

'

large ferry boats covered w i th te g as loaded

-

w i th c or n wh i ch h ad be en detai n e d there three

,

d ay s on acco un t of the dan ge r of atte m pti n g a

,

passage d urin g high w i n ds w h i ch l u ckily for u s

, ,

had j u st b ee n s u cceeded by a cal m Wh ile awai t .

i ng t h e ret ur n O f a s m all fe r ry boat we a m u sed -

,

ourselve s by per suadi n g a fe w s old i er s who m we

fo un d stati on ed h ere as a g u ard to r u n r aces for

'

p r i ze s on the steep brow of th e hill T hei r as

si st an c e was aft erwards read i ly give n for the e m

ba r k at i on Of the carr i ages whic h we fo un d n o

,
.

e a sy task We here w i tn e sse d a very a m usi n g

.
'

occ urre n ce betwee n the ferry man an un der -

,

of fi cer an d so m e s old i er s who had arri ved before u s

,

on the ban ks of the Dn p e r We wer e desi ro u s Of

.

crossi n g i m m ediately an d the boatm e n w o uld

,

readily h ave co m pl i ed with ou r w i sh bu t the u n ,

der-ofc e r pleaded his r ight to preceden ce w i th the ,

h igh to n e whic h is character i stic of all the ran ks

"
of the R u ss i an ar m y ; an d n either e n treaties n or

con te m pt affecte d hi m He . served his I m peri al

Maj esty the hor ses were the E m peror s an d ,

bran dish in g h i s can e i n the face of t he boatm e n h e ,

gave his co m m an d s an d forced com pli an ce We

, .

e nj oyed ou rselves als o i n r egar ding on e Of these

 P A S S AG E OF TH E DN EP E R . K A CH OV K A . 2 23

sce n es O f u proar an d con fu sion whi ch are com m on ,

l
i n R u ssia For the e m barkatio n O f the horses thi n gs
.

l
were badly arran ged : plan ks were laid betwee n
the shore an d the high sides of the barges by

ll
wh i ch they w ere to asce n d ; s om e w ere bli n d
folded an d led som e were p ul e d by ropes by the ,

bri dle or by the tai an d p u shed on board ;

, ,

wh i le n ot a fe w after havi n g advan ced halfw ay

, ,

began to pran ce an d fel i n to the ri ver

, .

Tho ugh the post station was at B e r i s af b y -

,

g iv in g a g r ati cat i on the dri ve r s h ad been i n duced

,

t o car ry u s to t h e Dn p e r Whe n fairly e m barked .

,

we betook ou rselves to the carriages as it w as ,

col d an d dark We m ade the rst hal f of the pas

.

sage by the labori o u s efforts of fo ur m e n at the

c ar s but a favo u rable breeze spri n gi n g u the sa i l

, p s ,

were spread an d we soon reached the oppo site

,

ban k O f the river A S the ferry wi n ds am o n g

.

S hoals an d reeds i t s breadth is recko n ed ve versts

, ,

tho ugh very probably at thi s seaso n O f the year it

, ,

is n ot m ore than three i n a direct l in e We were .

exactly t wo ho urs u pon the water We fo un d that .

l
the po st hou se was at Kac h OV k a half a verst fro m the
-
,

place w here we lan ded ; on reachi n g which after ,

as ce n d i n g a lo n g hill w e were m ost agreeably su r

prised to n d a good i n n , where least of all we ex:

e c te d i t By gi vi n g a t r i e to the sm ot r i te w
p

.
,

n d horses to fetch the carri a es

p ers aded hi m to s "

u e
g
t o the i n n ; an d by the t i m e W e had di n ed he had

ar r an ged every thi n g for our depar ture .

 2 24 P ER E KOP . I TS F OR TR E S S .

On the 9t h May by three O cloc k i n the m orn i n g
, ,

we were i n m otio n an d had a n e an d r ap i d dri ve

, ,

chan gi ng horses at t he stat i on s i n d i cated i n the

i tin erary thro ugh dreary plain s all the way t o
,

Perekop witho u t r e m ark in g a Sin gle obj ect de se r v

,

i n g of n oti ce .

T h e i sth m u s a n d fortress of P erekop o n c e at

tracted the atten ti on of the world ; bu t Si n ce the ,

seiz u re of the K r i m e a by R u ssia an d the co n sequ e n t ,

ce ssati o n Of war i n the adj oi n i n g regi o n s they are ,

l
l
s un k i n to i n si gn ic an c e They wi ll however .
, ,

always excite a lively i n terest i n the m i n d of the

passin g traveller w ho reas on s or spec ulate s u pon
,

l
the fate of n ati on s I n the eve n t Of a revol uti on

.
,

wh i ch soo n er or later i s i k e y to overthrow the ex

'

te n s i ve an d despotic govern m e n t of the R u ssian ;

e m pire an d to di s m e m ber i t i n to a n u m ber of

,

s m aller states the K r i m e a n o doubt wi l be early

, , ,

sec u red by on e party w he th er t hey be Tartars,

Tu rks, Greeks or even R u ss i an s ; an d i n case the

,

powers of E u rope Sho uld ever n d it n ecessary to

check or to s ub due the haughty am biti o us an d

, , , ,

dictatori al policy Of the R u ss i an cab in et that p e n ,

ll
i n s ula m ay beco m e O f in n ite i m porta n ce by the ,

faciliti es wh i ch i t affords for the lan d i n g O f troops ,

or O f m i l itary stores am m u n i ti o n an d arm s < He n ce

, , .

w e m ay reaso n ably co nj ect u re that the K r i m e a at , ,

s om e fu t u re ep oc h w i l r egai n its an cie n t o d

r an
, g y ,

Perekop an d i ts l in e offorticati on ?becom e the Seat

O f m urde r ous w arfar e I n suc h a c ase i t he tr i

.
,
 P ER E K O P . 2 25

um h
p an t eet of Great Britai n or perhaps that O f ,

the Greeks m ay ride alo n g the coasts of the E u xi n e

,

an d O f the Pal u s M m ot i s after that O f R u ssi a has

bee n capt u red or b u rn ed .

For a partic ular description of the i sth m u s an d

forticatio n s of Perekop I re fer the reade r to ,

Strabo Pallas Clarke an d Castel n au who will n d

, , , ,

its differe n t appellation s T ap h r os T afr of the

, , ,

Greeks an d O r Kapi of the Tartars com pletely

,
-
,

el u cidated i n their works I Shall co n n e m y r e

.

m arks to its prese n t co n ditio n .

Perekop is sit uated u pon a plai n an d upo n the ,

pri n cipal road of i n gress an d egress betwee n R u ssia

a n d t he K r i m e a ; for the passage i n s u m m er fro m

Ye n i t c h by the strait of the Sivash an d a san dy

,

to n g u e of lan d seve n ty three m iles i n len gth to

-
,

Arab at is o n ly u sed by the carts of the peasan ts

, .

It lies 1 2 8 0 versts distan t fro m Moscow an d ,

tho u gh the c hief t own O f a district it has m ore the ,

appearan ce of a v illage It co n sists of two rows

.

Of ho u ses which li n e the Sides of the gr eat

,

l
r oad , which is here O f e n orm o u s breadth With .

the exception of a fe w white-washed ho uses the ,

rest are i n gloom y harm o n y with the sterile n aked

region s Accordi n g to the latest statistical ac
.

cou n t this di str i c t t own on y c on t ai n s t hi r ty -e ig ht

,

houses an d of co u rse its pop u latio n is trii n g

, , , It .

deri v es its chie f prese n t i m portan ce fro m bei n g the

reside n ce of the Commissi on charged with the a d
VOL I . . Q
 m i n istratio n the Salt L akes O f the K r i m e a It is
Of -
.

an i m m e n se thoro u gh fare d u r i n g s u m m er as m ay ,

be easily co n ceived from the fact that cart ,

loads of salt an nu ally leave its gates for the s upply ,

O f the so u th of R u ssia .

l
The i n habitan ts of P erekop are co m posed of
R u s sian s Greeks Ar m e n ian s an d Tartars to
, , ,

which was added at the t i m e of ou r visit an en

, ,

c am m e n t of Bohe m ian s or T si an ii as they are

p g , ,

cal e d throu gho u t R u ssia or Gipsies as we n am e , ,

the m ; the m ales of who m were m e n di n g pots an d

pan s i n the open air while th eir wives an d ch ildre n
,

were sheltered u n der te n ts They are greatly e n i .

-

ll
c ou r age d by the T artars .

The i m m e n se ditches ra m parts an d walls of the

, ,

l
Fortress O f Perekop have been lately repaired Hav
, .

i n g e n tered its gra n d g ates a se n ti n el cried ou t , ,

B a c r bac k
, I replied Is there n o O fcer here ?
.
,

l
Poi n ti n g his bayo n et at u s at a S hort distan ce he , ,

an swered , NO bac c bac r At this m om en t
, .

l
so m e O fcers who were walki n g i n the i nterior
, ,

cam e i n to View ; an d u n der s u ch circ u m stan ces we

, ,

did n ot hesitate to bai t he m The O i c e r on d uty .

i m m ed i ately approached was very pol ite scolded , ,

the so dier acco m pan ied u s ro u n d the r am parts

, ,

an d an swered all our e n q uir i es A r ui n ed m osqu e .

,

with a Tartar i n scriptio n n ow m ade a powder m a ,

az i n e a barrack which likew se served as a

g ,
i

j ail i n a state of great lth an d the for ti c a

,
 THE A R M E NI AN BA z AR . 99 7

tion s were the obj ects which clai m ed our chief

,

atte n tio n .

At the distan ce of fo u r ve sts fro m P erekop w e r

e ntered the A r mi an sk oi B aadr or the Baz ar of t he ,

Arm e n ian s which has bee n described b y som e

,

a s form ed of a si n gle street : but the fact i s th at ,

it i s a very large village an d con sists of n u m ero us

,

n arro w la n es a m idst which arise m osqu es wi th

l
,

woode n m i n arets a Greek te m ple an d a R USSO

, ,

Greek ch u rch ; for the worsh i p of t he Tartars Ar -

,

m e n i an s an d R u ssia n s who co m pose its pop u lati o n

,
.

The ho uses are b uilt of sto n e or of t urf plastered

over have a very m ean appeara n ce an d are e n c o se d
, ,

by walls which form the bo u n daries of the streets .

The V illage had every where t he appearan ce of

extre m e dirt The co n duct of its i n habitan ts
.
,

warn ed u s that we had got am o n g a n e w people

i n a n e w co un try As we walked thro ugh the
.

lan es the m o m e n t we were espied m e n wo m e n ,

, , ,

a n d childre n withdrew i n to their co urts an d S h ut ,

their gates At le n gth som e O f the m ales ve n tu re d

.
,

to speak with us but t he fe m ales co uld o n ly be

,

seen by s u dde nly e n teri n g so m e path where t he

i n hab itan ts were n ot aware of our approach ; bu t
as their ge n eral feat ures m an n ers an d tattered , , ,

sloven ly an d even i n decoro u s dress disgu sted u s

, , ,

we were n ot te m pted to i m prove ou r acq uain tan c e

wit h them .

Th e r
r will de ade n 3 W OW
. Of th e fortr e ss an d g ate s of

Per k p P ll Tr l
e o , a as s av e s .
22 8 S A L T L A KE S - .

Besides the baz dr s or S hops alon g the road , , ,

,

there is likewi se an E astern baz ar or squ are plan ted , .

with trees an d s u rrou n ded by s m all shops i n ,

which are disposed for sale carts wh e els axle

, , , ,

l
trees ropes t ar w hips an d every thi n g n ecessary
, , , , ,

for carters as well as all ki n ds of provisio n s tea

, ~ , ,

s u gar coffe e wi n es j ellies co n fectio n s &c w hi c h

, , , , , .
,

proves that the vario u s i n habitan ts of this village

an d n e I ghbou r h ood ar e ac u ai n t e d with the ux
'

q
u r i e s O f li fe ; tho u gh I sho u ld s uppose the greatest
, ,

share O f so m e of these arti cles is disposed of t o

travellers .

O n the post road we re m arked h an dso m e sto n e

-

col um n s i n dicati n g the versts w hich were placed ,

t here whe n Cathari n e II m ade her m e m orable .

l
v i sit to the K r i m e a i n 1 7 8 7 They form ed part of
, .

the m ean s wh i ch were i n ve n t e d by the the n fa

v our i t e Pri n ce Pot m k i n to i n d u ce the e m press
, y ,

to believe that eve n while treadi n g d reary wilds

, ,

an d wastes sh e sa w a fertile pop u o u s o u rishi n g

, , , ,

l
an d happy co un try .

We p u rposely m ade a dtou r to the Salt L akes -

,

w h i ch are distan t abo u t t w el v e m iles fro m P erekop ,

a n d have di ffere n t n a m es as K r asn o e O z er o Red
y , , ,

L ake ; S tar oy e O z e r o O d L ake 85 0 As the , , .

water of these lakes was n ot s u fcie n tly evaporate d ,

we had n ot t h e opportu n ity of seei n g t he m c ov e r e d

with thei r ab u n dan t harvest O f salt They are .

Vid e Char ac t e r o f t h e R u ss i ans , p x c iii

. .
 l
desc ribed at le n gth by Pa l as an d n oticed by
Castel n au
S

The last n am ed writer has gi ve n a

.

represen tatio n O f the m an d of the loadin g O f the

A L T L AK E S

,
- .

,
.
22 9

ll
l
carts with their sali n e prod u cts The water of .

'
S t a r oy e Oz er o sat u rated with salt was extre m ely
, ,

stro n g an d p u n gen t to t he ton gu e Its ban ks an d . ,

n eighbo u rhood were absol utely co v ered with P

l
'

g an u m H a r m a a an d S a s o a e r i c oi d es like a reg u lar ,

crop The p r i st eg or s uperi n ten di n g O fcer O f

.

this lake was extre m ely affable an d c om m un i c a

,

ti v e asked u s to e n ter his ho u se an d had co ffee

, ,

l ll
ser v ed u p i m m ediately He is a M a O -R u ssian .

a n d was q u ite delighted at the sight O f stran gers

i n so d ull a spot s urro u n ded as he was by Tartars

, , , .

l l
Tho ugh a po or m an he was affron ted when I pri ,

v at e y p u t a t en ro u ble n ote i n to his han d ;

- he
rej ected it with disdai n an d wo u d n ot eve n al o w ,

his child to accept of it ; a circ u m stan ce whose p a

ralle h ad n ot be fore occ urred d u ri n g our j ou r n ey .

A t i n n s post ho u ses police O fc e s odgi n gs w h e

'

i - -
, , , ,

ther am on g R u ssian s Greeks or Jews rapacity ex , , , ,

t or t i on an d rog u ery were ge n erally the orde r of

, ,

the day .

The Salt L akes of the K r i m e a have bee n k n own

-

fro m ti m e i m m e m orial an d this pe n i n s ula w as

,

the e m pori u m of salt i n the earliest periods of

history . Hen ce the val u e of these lakes to the
possessors of the K r i m e a as a sou rce O f reve n u e an d , ,

for the s upply of on e of the m ost n ecessary co m m o

d i t i e s of h u m an li fe Hen ce also n o do ubt on e O f
. , ,

O S
23 S A L T L AK E S
- .

the ca u ses which re n dered the T au ri da an Obj ect

of a m bitio n to R u ssia ; s i n ce n otwithstan d i n g the ,

i m m en se an n u al s uppl i es which are n ow fu rn ished

fro m the pe n i n s ula a co n siderable i m portatio n of
,

fo r e i gn salt takes place every season at the sea ports -

l
of the Baltic .

S i n ce the seiz ure of the K r i m e a its Salt L akes

.
,
-

have som eti m es bee n kept by the crow n an d ,

som eti m es farm e d ou t I n the year 1 7 99 Pr e t s

.
,

l
an d St e i e t s farm ed the m for fo u r years d u ri n g
g ,

w hic h seve n ty poods of salt were sold on the spot ,

for t e n r o u ble s ; but it m u st b e re m e m bered that it

was an d st ill is sold i n an i m p u re state
, , .

Caste n a u s ays that i n form er years by selli n g

, , ,

l
the salt upon the spot at twelve k op e e k s per poo d ,

l
n ot m u ch m ore tha n a pe n n y at prese n t th e
,

Salt L akes produ ced a reven u e of

- rou bles ;
co n sequen tly oods m u st h ave bee n
p
di spose d of : an d i n a n ote he adds en 1 8 1 5 a ,

,

fer me a r e n d u r ou b es The price of .

salt was afterwards rai sed to forty kope c ks ; an d

l
i n 1 8 2 1 i t was sold at n i n ety kope ck s per pood ;
of which the people e m ployed to take it fro m th e
,

lak es rece i ved fro m seve n to t e n k op e e k s as th e

, ,

reward O f thei r labo u r The d e m an d for salt i n

.

1 8 2 1 was s m al so that a less qu an tity than u s u al

,

was m ade We were i n form ed that fro m the

.
,

S t ar oy e O z e r o alon e co u ld be take n a nnu ally
or poods of salt
an d that there was n o do u bt i f th e crow n ordered ,
.

it e v e n
, poods m ight be O btai n ed .
 F O OL I S H PR AC T I C E . 23 ]

Well m ay the u n ited supply of all the lakes O f the

K r i m e a be r egarded as i n exhau stible i f it be tr u e , ,

that the m ore their Solid con te n ts are re m oved the ,

greater is the i n crease .

So m e stran ge thi n gs ar e don e an d so m e e x t r aor ,

d i nar y m eas u res are adopted by the R u ssian s with , ,

all the progress they have m ade i n civilisation ,

an d the reg u larity an d order whic h they have

establishe d i n m an y departm e n ts of the p ublic
service where each person of ran k by regu lar
, ,

g radatio n ,bec o m es a tyra n t or a des pot whe n it ,

l
pleases hi m over his i n feriors I shall give an i n
, .

stan ce i n ill ustratio n of this observati o n Fro m .

th e co m m issio n er at P erekop a pri n ted order m ust ,

b e received so as t o proc u re an y given qu an tity of

,

salt at the lakes The sa t be i n g O btai ne d the p u r

.
,

chaser m u st ret u rn to P erekop with his order an d

h i s p u rchase whe n he pays the m o n ey
, This ar .

ran ge m en t s u its those well e n ou gh who e n ter the

K r i m e a fro m the n orth an d whose road on their

, ,

r et u r n leads thro ugh P erekop ; bu t it is excessively

,

i n co n ven ie n t for the i n habitan ts O f the K r i m e a ,

so u th of t h e lakes O z m an a Tartar whom we

.
,

m e t resid es six vers t s fro m S t ar oy e O z e r o an d to

'

, ,

th e so u theast ; an d whe n he w an ts to p u rchase

salt i n stead O f co m i n g here taki n g his load an d
, ,

departi n g he is obliged to go to Perekop for the

,

prin ted order an d havi n g loaded his oxen to dri ve

, ,

the m to that tow n ; the n an d n ot till the n he is at

, ,

liberty to ret ur n hom e by the n earest way he c an

2 32 A N E CD O TE S or A T A R TA R .

nd . that i n stead of the short di stan ce of

SO
twelve versts he has to m ake a lon g j o ur n ey
,
-

l
We were n ot sorry that O z m a n t he o n ly Tartar ,

who m we had m e t si n ce leavi n g the A r m i an sk oi

Baz ar had bee n detai n ed here ; especially as he
,

spoke a little R u ss H e w as a good speci m e n of his

.

cou n try m e n : tall w e l b uilt wi t h an ope n pleasi n g

,
-
, , ,

a n d i n teresti n g co un te n an ce an d full O f good ,

h u m o u r We begged the O fcer to ask hi m t o his

.

ho use I n a lo n g con versatio n he spoke of A br a

. .

l
ha m I saac an d Jesus Chr i st as well as of M a hom e d
, , ,

( who m he called M am bed

) as great prophets -
an d , ,

with great revere n ce an d he s e e rri e d to have so m e

j u st ideas of the Divi n e Bein g an d his attrib utes .

When we a l uded to rewards an d p u n ish m en ts he ,

s aid , My body m ay be throw n to the dogs pro ,

vi de d m so u l goes to the hou r i s H e was a m
y ar .

ried m an an d i n form ed us that tho u gh a Tartar

l
, ,

was per m itted to have fo u r wives it was n ot law ful ,

to sleep with m ore than on e O f the m the sam e n ight .

H e also stated that he was allowed to shave

h i s bea r d till he had attai n ed forty years of age ;

l
bu t that a fter that s u ch a practice was absol u t ely
,

con de m n ed H e co n cl uded e m phatica ly i n these

.

words , For m y part rather wo uld I allow m y

,

-

l

throat to be c u t than m y beard to be shaved We .

"

rem arked that the heads O f the Tartars were ge n e

rally shaved eve n of the yo u ths ; that so m e h ad
,

the m bu t partially shaved ; an d that m an y were

q u ite ba d except a t u ft O f hair upo n the crown A
, .
 G UZ L A A , T A R T A R V I L L AG E . 283

R ussian who was prese n t said be supposed this ,

t uft was le ft by the Tartars that Maho m e d m ight

seize the m an d p u ll the m to Paradise after death
, , .

To which O z m an with great vehe m en ce replied, , ,

You R u ssian s let yo u r hair gro w th i ck an d lo n g ,

that yo ur prophet m ay have a good hol d i n drag

gi ng you to heav en .

Adj oin i n g to Staroye O zero is the v illage of
G uzla which con tai n s seven ty ho use s or h u ts an d
, ,

l
whose i n m ates are e m ployed at the lakes i n su m

l l
m er . This was the rst real Tartar v illage we had
seen an d we fo un d that the sam e system was p u r
,

l
s u ed as at A r m i an sk oi Baz ar m e n wo m e n an d
-

, ,

C hi d re n ed fro m ou r sight as i f we had bee n a pes ,

t i e n c e The p r i s t a
.
f s i n u e n ce howe v er soon pre , ,

vailed an d on e O f the m a e s allowed u s to e n ter his

,

d w elli n g A liberal dou ceu r on e avi n g its preci n cts

.

prod u ced a m ar v ello u s e ffect ; the Tartars sur

l
ro u n ded u s an d every on e m ore an xiou s than his
,

n ei hbou r m ade sign s for u s to acco m pan y h i m to

g
his ho u se We e m braced SO fav o urable an op p or
.

l
t u n i ty ; we n t i n to m an y of their dwelli n gs ; an d s a w
the fe m ales m arried an d u n m arri ed yo un g an d O d
, , .

I n on e of the best of their ho u ses a s m all low ro un d , , ,

table was co v ered with a table cloth an d bread -

,

an d so u r cream were placed u po n it whi e a ra n ge ,

of c u shio n s u po n the oor s u rro un ded it L ike .

the Tartars we sat down cross legged u pon these

,
-

c u shion s an d partook of the repast but v ery

, ,

spari n gly as n either the bread n or the cream w as

,
 l

234 D YI I R M E N .

m u ch to our taste Whe n we left this ho u se the

.

whole m ale pop ulati o n of th e village i n cl u din g a ,

n u m ber of boys was at ou r hee s I proposed t o

, .

m ake the m r un races an d the yo un g Tartars

,

showed m u ch eager n ess whilst r unn i n g an d m u ch ,

agility i n their m otio n s Havi n g rewarded the m .

with prizes give n a v e ro u ble n ote to ou r

,
-

pleasan t co m pa n io n O z m an an d distrib u ted a fe w ,

ro ubles to the other Tartars we got i n to the car ,

ria es an d throwi n g a q u a n tity Of s m all silver

g , ,

coi n s i n t o the air for which there was an a m usi n g

,

scram ble with the ben edictio n s of ou r n e w ac

,

u ai n t an c e s we left Staroy e O zero

q , .

O ur ro u te lay thro u gh arid s tep s w ith fe w devi a ,

tio n s from a right li n e ; an d we arrived at Dyur m e n

late i n the eve n in g di n ed an d reposed till fou r
, ,

O clock i n th e m or n i n g O f the followi n g day an d ,

reached Sar abuz e for break fast The road dreary as .

,

possible i s con ti n u ed over a s u rface n early level

, .

After we left Aibar the T c hati r Dagh the highest

,
-
,

m o un tai n i n th e K r i m e a b u rst u po n the View ; ,

an d soo n a fterwards the whole chai n O f the

,

m o u n tai n s of this pe n i n s u la *
e n live n ed the pros
pect an d had an an i m ati n g e ffect upon ou r spir its
, .

We m e t a troop of gipsies travelli n g i n basket ,

carts each draw n by two s m all horses We ex

,
.

am i n e d so m e e n or m o u sly deep wells i n the plai n s

;
an d we re m arked i m m e n se tracts cove r ed wit h

Dr Clark e h as give n i
a v e w of t hi s s c en e .
 ll l D E G E NE R A C Y OF T HE T A R TA R S . 2 35

l
an d
'

P eg an um H ar m a a , Car duus ci i at us, Sa vi a

A u st r i ac a Besides the villages at the post statio n s

.
-
,

e n um erated i n the iti n erary i n the Appe n dix we ,

l
re m arked bu t a fe w others on th e whole li n e of road
fro m P erekop to Sy m p he r op o e which certai n ly ,

gav e u s the idea that the le v el par t of the K r i m e a

,

l
was i n a state O f great desolatio n ; bu t accordin g ,

to Caste n a u an d an excelle n t statistical m ap O f the

,

K r i m e a we j u dged by a very fallacio u s criterio n

, .

For , at t he short distan ce of ve or six versts ,

on a s ides there are rich villages i n habited by m e n

,

m ore happy than their apat hy an d careless n ess

m erit . The Tartar loves retire m en t ; he '

wishes to be isolated an d regards the Visit O f the

,

stran ger as an i n tr u sio n on his repose on his pro ,

perty an d on his happi n ess
, B u t it m ust ever.

b e kept i n re m e m bra n ce that the Ta r tars O f the

,

prese n t ge n eratio n di ffer con siderably fro m their

an cestors an d that forty years O f s u bj ection de
, ,

en de n c e an d oppressio n have operated i n di m i

p , ,

n is h i n
g i
, f n ot i n eradicati n g all the highest feel ,

l
i ngs an d pri n ciples of savage life witho ut havi n g ,

s upplan ted the m by the b en ig n i n u e n ce of kn ow

ledge civilisatio n or religion Si n ce the reign
, , .

of Alexan der it m u st at the sa m e ti m e b e

,
~

, ,

can di d y ad m itted that m an y m eas ures have b ee n

,

co n certed so as to m ake the b urde n of despotis m ,

less an d less se n sible to his K r i m e an s ubj ects ;

an d , as we shall see by an d by to ed u cate an d ,

ill um i n ate their m i n ds I n deed Alexa n de r is n ot

.
,
 l
236 TH E E M PE R O R A L E XA ND E R .

to be blam ed , bu t to be praised for his ad m i n istra

tio n of R u ssia ge n erally speaki n g ; for a th ou gh
, ,
.

h e wisely delays givi n g freedo m to his s ubj ects ,

leaves that m eas u re to his s u ccessors or looks for ,

ward to the ti m e whe n the R u ssi an s the m selves

shall declare their i n depen de n ce he steadily p u r
s ues the syste m O f e n cou ragi n g an d exte n di n g the
m ean s of ed ucat i o n of literat u re an d O f relig i o n
, , ,

i n the re m otest cor n ers of his vast territories If .

h e has bee n n eglige n t i n any great con cern of the

e m pire it h as ass u redly bee n that of t he ad m i n i
,

s t r at i on of j u stice i n the trib u n als ; bu t at the ,

prese n t m o m en t we have reaso n to believe that

, ,

this s ubj ect en gages his m ost earn est atte n tio n .

Sho uld he u n dertake its re form ation an d p u r i c a

tio n he will n d it a Herc u lean u n dertakin g
, ,

bu t on e worthy O f a m o n arch s labo u rs O f a ,

tsar s am bition an d of an e m peror s fa m e Tr uly
, .

the R u ssian s have n o j u st cau se to be discon

te n ted with their Sovereign w ho has ever shown the
,

u t m ost wish to raise their cha r acter an d to ele v ate ,

the m i n the ran k of n ation s It i s the foreign policy

.

O f Alexa n der that has t u r n ed tho u san ds of voices

agai n st hi m which bu t a fe w years ago hailed

, , ,

hi m w i th estee m an d r evere n ce .

As we reached Sar abuz e by a ge n tle desce n t

, ,

w e were char m ed with the cha n ge of sce n ery Be .

hin d u s was a m on oto n o u s plai n of h u n dred s of

m iles i n exte n t ; be fore u s rose i n m aj estic gran
'

de u r an exte n s ive ran ge of m o u n tai n s while t he

, ,
 S A R A B Z E . 2 37

i nterve n i n g co un try was varied by hills an d woods , ,

l
a n d villages an d i n tersected by strea m s
,
.

We stopped at a s m all bu t excelle n t i n n at Sara

b uze i n which every thi n g bore the aspect O f order
,

a n d clean li n ess To a Tartar who cam e to the

.
,

door with a m iserable horse we gave a g r i nn i r a

, , ,

l
s m all sil v er coi n whic h he p u t i n to his boso m I
, .

told h i m i n R u ss that he wo u ld lose it He

, ,
.

replied I n his ow n lan gu age as was i n terpreted

, ,

by his Sign s while be to u ched on e O f his fore

,

teeth , I sh al s oon er lose this ; an an swer which

l
recalled to m i n d t h e O ri e n tal d esce n t of the Tar
tars.

A ft er we left Sar abuz e we desce n ded a ge n tle ,

l
decl ivi ty at the gallop ; re m arked n u m ero u s Villas
s u rro u n ded by trees an d garde n s an d tracts O f c u

l
t i vat e d lan d ; passed a b u ryi n g gro u n d lled with -

t he sep u lchral m o n u m e n ts O f the Tartars ; an d

l
reached Sym p he r op o e We drove to On e i nn .
,

which w as u n der repair ; the n to an other which ,

was lled by bil i ard room s an d variou s parties ; -

,

an d
, while w e were abo u t to proceed t o a t hi r d ,

a n O d acq u ai n ta n ce of m i n e S u ltan K atti Gh r r i ,

Kri m Gh erri u n expectedly cam e i n to vie w m ost

-
, ,

ki n dly i n vited u s to take u p ou r q u arters at his

ho use an d wo u ld n ot ad m it an y exc u se for n on
,

com plian ce The S ultan a well k n own character i n

.
,
-

Great Britai n i s a d e sc e n dan t of the Tartar khan s

,
'

an d was bor n am o n g the m o u n tai n s O f the Can

cas u s Havi ng beco m e acq u ai n ted with t he Scotch

.
 l
2 38 S UL T A N KA T T I G H ER R I
- H R I M - H ER R I G .

m issio n aries at Karass an d shown a dispositio n to

,

e m brace the Christian religion an d to beco m e u s e

fu i n the co n versio n of his M ahom e d an brethre n ,

he was re m ov ed to Petersb u rgh an d res i ded with ,

Dr Paterso n w here I was i n trod u ced to hi m

.
,
.

He the n proceeded to the u n iversity O f E di n bur gh ,

a n d there resided for so m e years for the p u rpose of

stu dyi n g H e acco m pan i ed Mr L ewis Way i n

. .

his j ou rn ey throu gh R u ssia an d the K r i m e a i n ,

1 8 17 1 8 1 8
- an d whe n at Moscow he was fr e
, ,

qu en tly at m y ho u se .

The S ultan a le ft father an d m other v e brothers , ,

an d as m an y sisters i n E d i n b u rgh h er n ative

, ,

town for the sake of the S ultan an d co n se n ted to

, ,

reside i n the K r i m e a but by so doi n g she i n c u rred

, ,

h e r fat h e r s i n vi n cible displeas u re w hich he carried ,

SO far as to disi n herit her ; an d he eve n died with

ou t pardo n i n g this stro n g proo f O f u n eq u i v ocal love .

Man y of th e S u ltan a s fri e n ds co n sidered her
attach m e n t as very ro m an tic but perhaps with , ,

less roo m th an they i m agi n ed For i t m u st n ot b e

.
,

l
forgotte n that prev io u s to his m arr iage the S u ltan
, ,

had n ot on ly becom e a Christian bu t was al m ost ,

tran s form ed i n to a Bri to n an d spoke En glish

,

l
with as m u ch u en cy as h i s n at i ve ton g ue At .

Sym p h e r op o e hi s ho u se was a rran ged i n the

E n glish style al m ost ever y portable art i cle withi n
it was of Bri tish m anu factu re an d Bri tis h c u stom s
,

an d m an n ers alo n e preva iled I n deed the Su

.
,

tan s ed u cati on reli gi on pri n ciples con d u ct an d
, , , ,
 S Y M P H E R O PO L E . 2 39

ge n eral m ode O f thi n ki n g were so tr uly British , ,

that I O fte n forgot m ysel f, an d criticise d a n d e v e n ,

ab u sed the Tartars as i f I h ad bee n co n v ersi n g

, ,

with a cou n trym an He has lon g been i n con n ec

.

tion with the s ocieties of Great Britai n for the dis

se m i n atio n O f religio us k n owledge an d he rece i ved ,

the edu catio n O f a m ission ary H e wishes to b e .

u se fu l i n the co n versio n of the Kri m Tartars t o

the Christian religio n a n d i f e n co u raged by the ,

British societies he will establish an exten sive school

,

for the ed u catio n of t h e Tartar yo u ths At the .

t i m e of o ur visit be was arran gi n g a s m all sc h ool

,

SO as to co m m e n ce his pla n H e also i n te n ded by .

,

his exhortatio n s to e n lighte n his brethre n ; an d i n

, ,

or d e r t o e n co u rage the m to co m e to hi m he dis ,

trib uted s m all s u m s of m on ey to the poor w hich , ,

n o doubt were as m u ch v al u ed as his ki n d lesso n s

,
.

Bein g n ow a R u ssian s ubj ect an d havi n g n e ,

c e ss ar i
y reli n qu ished th e property i n the Ca u ca

s u s to which he w as heir the E m peror Alex ,

an der h as lately b estowed upon h i m a pe n s i o n of

SI X tho u sa n d ro u bles wh ich with the addition of the
, ,

s m all i n co m e of t h e S ultan a e n ables hi m to liv e ,

co m fortably His wi fe see m ed a very m odest

.

l
a m iable person an d was highly prized b y her hu s
,

ban d by who m she had on e dau ghter at the ti m e

,

of ou r visit an d I belie v
, e n ow h as two or three
m ore C hildre n .

Sy m p h e r op o e received its ap pellatio n from the

Greeks The Tar tars called an d still call it,
.
,
2 40 S YM PH E R O P O L E .

A k -M e t c h t , w hich sign ies whi te m osque becau se ,

Ibrahi m Bey who had m ade a s u ccessfu l expedition

,

agai n st the R u ssian s recei v ed estates I n this n eigh,

bour h ood an d ca u sed s u ch an edice to be bu ilt

,

n o di ffi c u lt m atter as t he town is s urro u n ded by

,

m o u n tai n s O f white calcareo u s sto n e A fter the .

con qu est of the K r i m e a the Greek n am e w as re ,

stored so as to obliterate a n associatio n s betwee n

, y
A k M e t c h t an d the n atives an atte mpt which has
-

hitherto failed an d m ay n e v er s u cceed, Tho ug h .

l
all th e records of the Tartars were destroyed their ,

lan gu age will han d down their for m er history by

tradition to their i m m ediate S u ccessors an d they , ,

perh aps to the re m otest ages

, .

Sym p h e r op o e was th e form er reside n ce of the

l
K alga S ultan after the Khan the m ost dis t i n
-
, ,

u i s h e d i n divid u al i n the pe n i n s u la It is n ow the

g .

capital O f the K r i m e a an d the res i de n ce O f the ,

civil gover n or It lies i n a n e valley at t he base

.
,

O f the T au r i dan m o u n tai n s an d u o n the Sa hi

p g r , ,

a s m all river except i n the Spri n g or after heav y

,

rai n s which is Stro n gly i m pregn ated with li m e .

,
.

It is 963 m iles distan t fro m Mosco w an d 1 45 8 ,

fro m Petersb urgh It con sists o f two parts ; th e

.

l l
E u ropea n par t b uilt by t he R u ssian s s i n ce the .

seizu re of the K r i m e a i n 1 7 8 3 ; an d t he T ar t ar or
Asiatic part which till lately c on sisted O f st r u c
, , ,

t ures e n tirely i n the m an n er of the n ati ves ; Nu

m e r ou s garde n s c u m s of trees an d exte n sive
'

p , ,

elds give a lively appearan ce t o Sym p he r op o e i n

,
 C A TH E D R A L AT S Y M PH E R O P O L E . 24 1

s um m er ; but I u n der st an d that it is rather a gloo m y

, ,

reside n ce i n wi n ter The n e w tow n presen ts wide

.

streets ; an d besides the crown b u ildin gs as the go

,
-
,

l

vern or s ho u se the Vice govern or s ho u se the police
,
-
,

O ffi ce the civil hospital a barrac k an d the elega n t

, , ,

l
cat hedral it con tai n s a con siderable n u m ber Of pri
,

l
vate ho u ses O n every han d however we rem arked
.
, ,

l
the r ui n s of for m er stru ctu res an d m an y bu i d in gs ,

i n a n u n n ished state .

There is n ot a sin gle edice i n Sym p h e r op o e

wor thy of partic u lar n otice except the Cathedr a .

Man y years ago the Ru ssian govern m e n t liberal y

gr an ted ro ubles accordin g to an es ti ,

l
m ate for its erectio n bu t this su m o n ly raised the
,

w alls to hal f their in ten ded height A secon d esti .

m ate was m ade an d ro u bles were ordered

,

l
for i t s co m pletio n ; bu t this seco n d su m m erely

ll l
n ished the w alls an d the b u i din g rem ai n s n u
,

r o ofed A thi rd esti m ate was lately prese n ted to

.

the crown which has gran ted

, , rou bles a ddi
t i on a an d ordered the edice to be n ished This
,
.

l
I S an exce e n t il u stration of the ge n eral m a nn er

l
O f proce du re i n all the affairs of th e crow n as we l ,

as of the n obles ; they alm ost always begin upon a

gigan ti c plan an d seldom com plete it till m an y
,

years after the xed period an d ofte n n ot at a - .

I sho u d n ot be s u rpri sed if a fo urth su m should yet

be d em an ded before d i vi n e worship c an be per
form ed wi thin the walls of the cathedral Ar chi .

te e ts have been blam ed i n m an y co un tri es for mac

V OL . I . R
242 CA T H E D R A L AT S YM PH E R O P O L E .

l
c u r ate esti m ates bu t i n R ussia the exten t of thei r
,

i n acc uracy is i n credible h i s i n u n ison with th e

.

corr upt state O f Ci vil govern m en t i n all its depart

m e n ts an d it see m s to be freq u e n tly a sch e m e to

gi ve ow estim ates i n order to i n d u ce the crown

, ,

o r i n divid u als to co m m e n ce great works ; the ar

,

c hi t e c t s, k n owi n g that after con siderable progress

has bee n m ad e t hey ge n erally s u cceed i n O b t ain i n g
'

fu rther gran ts O f m on ey .

The Cathedral is fou n ded upo n the spot where

l
S uv r of gai n ed a Victory is a large edice O f ,
.

ll
a n O blo n g for m an d is O f a n agreeable height
,
.

Its n orth an d so u th facades an d west e n d are , .

,

each adorn ed with a portico an d ran ges of c o ,

um n s , wh ile the east e n d i s of a se m i c i rc ular for m

for the altar an d prese n ts a peristy e with n u m e

, .
a

rou s pillars The whole edice i s b u ilt O f sto n e

.
,

l
an d the c ol u m n s are of polished sto n e ; n o u s u a

sight i n this part of the world Take n as a . :

whole it is by far the m ost han dsom e ecclesiastic

,

stru ctu r e I have see n i n the R u ssian e m pire

L ike all the T artar tow n s an d v i l ages i n the .

K r i m e a the Tartar part O f A k M e t c ht has an

,
.
-

exceedin gly m ean an d disgustin g appearan ce an d ,

t h e streets are for the m ost part n arro w an d irre

gular A fe w years ago Castel n au said that a
.
,

traveller who had n ever seen a Tartar or a Tu rkish . .

town wou ld believe that he was wan deri n g am on g

,

ston e cages i n which fools w e re con n ed ; an d

-
,

that m ost of the ho u ses were so low that they , .

 S YM PH E R O P O L E . 243

c ou l d scarcely be perce i ved except where the ,

l
su rro un di n g walls were i n r u i n s These charac .

t e r i st i c s still predo m i n ate yet the gloo m y u ni

,

for m ity an d m o n oto n y O f a Tartar tow n are every

where broke n i n upo n by E uropean b uild i n gs I n .

deed at Sym p h e r op o e the stran ger c an n o lon ger

, ,

for m an acc u rate i dea O f either a Tartar town or a

Tartar V illage .

I n the Tartar qu art er is the Gost i nn oi Dvor e or

, ,

bargai n i n g Shops which ar e kept by the n atives as

-
, ,

well as by Greeks Arm e n ian s an d R u ssian s an d

, , ,

w hich we fo u n d s upplied with the n ecessaries an d

l ux u ries of li fe European an d Asiatic A vi si t to the
, .

Tartar Shops yielded u s m u ch am use m en t ; an d we

bo ught som e Of the i r e m broi dered boots of all the ,

l
colo urs O f the rai n bow an d for all ages an d sexes
, ,

an d also leat h er straps balls an d toys

, as prese n ts
, ,

for the n atives on our j o ur n ey With regret we .

fo un d that the sam e despicable syste m of bargai n i n g ,

l
w hic h al m ost u n iversally prevai s a m o n g the R u s
si an m erchan ts thro ugho u t the whole e m pire had ,

l
also i n fected the Tartars who are becom e adepts
,

i n deception .

I n 1 7 94 Pa as cau tio u sly re m arked that Si n ce

,

ll
the K r i m e a becam e part Of the R u ssian territory ,

Sym p he r op o e had lost m u ch of its prosperity ;

an d in 1 800 , accordi n g to Dr Clarke altho ugh .
,

the place had o n ce been beau ti ful the R u ssian s ,

h ad laid a waste I n 1 8 0 8 an d 1 8 1 3 i f we take

.
,

S t c hk at of an d V svo oj sk i i for ou r g uides there ,

R 2
24 4 SYM PH E R O P O L E

were i n Sy m p h e r op o e 3 3 9 ho u ses 30 bake

hou ses 1 97 shops 1 2 c offee hou ses 1 3 khan s
, ,

or m agazines 2 i n n s 5 t avern s ; an d the p op u

, ,
l . I TS C L I M ATE

-
,

,
(
.

latio n am oun ted to 2000 souls Of who m n early ,

on e hal f were Tartars while the other hal f was,

m ade up of Greeks Moldavi an s Arm en ian s

, , ,

Tu rks an d Jews There c an be n o dou bt that

,
.

this town has reco v ered m u ch of its prosperity

an d trade with i n the last fe w years ; a n d we were

ass u red upon good au thori ty that the n u m be r

, ,

l
of its ho u ses an d i n habitan ts is da i ly i n creasi n g .

I n deed t his is proved by the facts that the val u e

, ,

l
O f la n d i n the tow n is e n o r m o u sly a u g m e nted ; an d

that by a late statistical m ap there are n ow 4 68

, ,

ho u ses i n Sym p he r op o e By the sam e authority .

,

l
we were told that the Tartars n ow begi n to ass i - A

m i at e with t he R u ssia n s an d that the high est ,

ran k s am on g the m Si t upo n chai rs an d u se k n ives ,

a n d forks at their m eals i n stead of be in g cross ,

legged upo n ow di va ns an d servi n g the m selves ,

with their n gers .

Besides fou r m os qu es with the i r toweri n g m i n a ,

rets there are also a Greek ch u rch an Ar m e n ian

, ,

ch u rch a Rom an Catholic ch urch an d a Syn a

, ,

gog u e i n A k M e t c ht - .

Dr Clarke adopte d an opi n i o n that this town

.
,

w as extre m ely u n healthy Speaki n g of Pallas he .

,

says ,Sple n did as his reside n ce appeared the air ,

of the place was so bad that the m ost rigid absti ,

n e n c e fro m all sorts of a n i m al food was i n s uf c i e n t

 A T A R T A R C O FF E E -H O U SE 2 45

l
l
.

to preserve the i n habitan ts fro m fevers O n this

poi n t we s uspect great i n acc u racy as the reside n t
, ,

physician see m ed to con sider its sit uation very

sal ubrio us an d as far as m y e n q u iries wi l a l ow m e
,

to pro n o u n ce I sho uld be of h i s Opi n io n O n e

, .

l
fact i n deed see m s to re n der this co n cl u sive for
, , ,

a disti n g u ished m edical m an who practised for ,

m an y years i n Petersb u rgh has lately withdraw n ,

fro m the labo u rs of his profession an d b u ilt a ,

ho u se at Sym p h e r Op O e with the i n ten tion of spen d

,

i ng there the re m ain der of his days .

Whil e strolli n g abo u t the streets on e even i n g , ,

i n the Tartar div i sio n of A k M e t c ht the son o -

,

ro us but harsh so un d of m u sic i n a Tartar coffee

,

ho u se i n du ced us to ascen d a n arrow stair-case

, ,

a n d e n ter it when qu ite a n ovel sce n e presen ted

itsel f A sin gle large roo m was divided by low
.

woode n partition s s u rm o u n ted by rails as orn a

,

l
m e n ts i n to fo u r s m all co m part m e n ts th e oors of
, ,

which were elev ated a fe w i n ches above the level

of the passage I n each O f the s e apartm e n ts was a
.

low table on which stood an im m e n se salver with

,

i ve charcoal s u rro un ded by gro ups of Tar tars

,

an d Greeks i n their n ati v e cost u m es who were

, ,

S itti n g cross legged u po n the oor

- dri n kin g e of ,

fe e an d s m o k i n g pipes with their u s u al gravity ,

an d tacitu rn ity ap pare n tly as little a e c t e d by

the th un derin g of the m u sI CI an s as i f they had ,

b ee n i n a rem ote desert .

They all w e r e loose red an d yellow boots i n the ,

R 3
2 46 A T A R T A R C O FF E E -H O U SE .

l
E astern style an d had left their slippers at the e n
,

tran ce which t hey u se for the sam e p u rpose as

,

ladies wear patte n s i n Great Britai n All O f the m .

wore s m all caps except the ha dg is or those w ho

, ,

had m ade a pi gri m age to Mecca or Medin a whose ,

heads were s u rm o u n ted by high w hite turban s ,

ll
l
as a badge O f hon o u r A fter looki n g abou t us .
,

an d bei n g so m ewhat stared at we got possess i o n ,

O f one O f the s m all apart m e n ts took our places i n ,

Tartar style dran k coffee an d s m oked our pipes

, , .

We a tri ed the ra i oun which we foun d excess i vely

,

difcu lt to u se n o dou bt from wan t Of practi c e as the

,

Tartars an d Greek s sen t forth vol um es of s m oke

fro m it with as m u ch appare n t ease as fro m a c om
, ,

l
m on tobacco pipe Partly by speaki n g R u ss an d
- .
,

l
partly thro ugh S ultan Katti Gherri Kr im Gherri - -
,

we had a good deal of con versation with the i h

m ates O f the c offee ho u se all of who m tho ugh
-
, ,

form al we fo un d c i vil an d po i te
, Two vi oli n s ,

held ike the Vi olon cello an d a t am bar i n e regaled, ,

us d u ri n g ou r stay with m ost i n harm o n io u s m u sic .

Although the Tartars an d the Greeks sh owed

l
great apathy to the am u se m e n t yet they m ust have ,

som e taste for it si n ce the m aster of t he hou se

,

n ds it advan tageou s to e m ploy the m u s i cian s very

frequ e n tly O ur host who see m ed a sen sible m an
.
, ,

when asked how lo n g h e had bee n at Sym p h e r op o e ,

r eplied se ve n or four teen y e ar s I
, We fou n d
that his greatest wish was to m ake a j o urn ey wi th ,

o ut the least devi at io n fro m a strai ght li n e an d to ,

 M A H O M E DA N W OR S H I P . 2 47

proceed to whatever co un tries he m ight be led "

by la n d o r sea Whe n he had acqu ired a little

.

m o n ey be serio u sly i n te n ded to m ake the e x p e r i

,

m ent at least he prete n ded so .

l
The Kri m Tartars as is well k n ow n an d as has
, ,

bee n m e n tion ed by Dr Clarke are m u c h i n the.

,

habit of goi n g t o M e c c a We saw on e u pon the

~
.

road m ou n ted on hor seback as he crossed the

, ,

S a ghi r Upo n e n qu iry we fo u n d that after he had

.
,

m ade a certai n progress on hi s j o u r n ey he i nt e nd ed

to dispos e of his horse i n order to proc u re the

,

l
m ean s of ex i ste n ce for hi m sel f At this ti m e he .

had o n ly a fe w r ou bles an d w as happy at r e ,

c e ivi n o u r charity as well as that f others to

g , O ,

e n able h i m to acco m pl i sh h i s devo u t p u rpose .

Havi n g h eard the M oh a s call fro m the m i
n aret of on e O f the m osq u es at m i d day we pro ,
-
,

c e e de d to witn ess the practice of the M ah om e dan

l l
worship The slow an d m aj estic pace of the Tar
.

tars after their abl u ti on s their grave co un te n an ces

, , ,

a n d their serio u s co n d u ct prod u ced a sole m n ity i n

ou r m i n ds which we l i ttle expected .

Thou gh Pa l as b e go n e his loss has bee n ,

s upplied by on e O f the rst n at uralists O f the age

-
,

Mr Christian Steve n who after havi n g travel e d

. , ,

i n the Cau ca s u s Georgia an d the K r i m e a u n der

, , ,

the au sp i ces of the R ussi an govern m e n t was , ,

som e years ago a ppoin ted director of the bo

,

tan i e garden a t Nikita on the so uth coast of ,

the pe n in s ula where he res i des for so m e m on ths

,

R 4
 l
2 48 MR S TE VE N

l
l
. .

ll
of the year He has lately p ur ch ased a hou se
.

adj oi n i n g to Sym p h e r op o e at whic h we wer e ,

i n trod u ced to his acqu ai n tan ce H e has p ar ti c u .

ar
y disti n g u ished h i m sel f as a botan i s t an d e n to

m o ogi st He w as an exten sive co n trib utor to the

.

celebrated F or a Taur o Caucasi ca by M arschall a -

,

l l
Bieberstei n ; an d lately he m ade a prese n t of a col

l
lect io n of i n sects m an y O f the m rare an d n on de
,
-

scripts valu ed at n early ve h u n dred pou n ds ster

,
.

lin g to the un iversity O f Moscow u po n con ditio n of

, ,

bei n g allowed p erp et ua y to n o m i n ate two p u p i s

to be ed u cated as n atura i sts at its expen se These .

rare i n sects w ill be all i n cl u ded i n t he splen d i d

E n t om bg r ap hi a of Pro fessor Fischer , of Mos ,

cow on e vol um e O f which was p ublished som eti m e

,

ago an d an other has m ost l ikely ere this i ss ued

, , ,

fro m the press .

Fro m Mr Steve n we got a great deal of i n form

.

l
a tion ; an d am on g other O bj ects O f n atu ral his
, ,

l
tory he showed us a co n geri es Of shells which he
,

had fo un d i n on e of the s tep s of the K r i m e a As .

Pallas has m i n u tely describ e d the r ocks O f calca

r e ou s t u f by the co u rse O f the S a hi r the m i
, g ,

n e r a o i st sho u ld be fu r n ished with a copy of

g
his travels .

While walk in g with Mr Steve n i n his garde n .

, ,

he poi n ted ou t to m e the dwelli n g of Madam e

Pallas at a Short distan ce ; an d rou sed m y c u riosity
,

to see this lady O f whose ro m an tic ad v e n tu res I had

,
'

heard so m u ch The high character O f her late .

.
 M ADA M E P AL L AS 2 49

l
.

h usban d reects a l u stre u pon his fam ily an d r e n ,

ders every i n for m atio n with respect to hi m or the m

, ,

i n teresti n g ,

Mr Steve n con du cted m e to a sm a l ho u se

.
,

ll
whose exterior an d i n terior appearan ce bore n o
i n dicatio n O f riches n or eve n O f ease Madam e .

Pallas is tall an d appears to have been han d

,
.

so m e ; but whatever char m s she possessed ti m e has

withered . Sh e is n ow an O d e m aciated ady ,

bu t lively affable an d sociable

, , She spoke of Dr . .

Clarke an d Mr Cripps an d see m ed a good deal

, .
,

affected at the n ews of the death of t he form er ,

who m her h u sban d had treated an d s aved above ,

twe n ty years ago when attacke d by a viole n t fever

,

in the K r i m e a The politi cal d ifferen ces betwee n

.

E n glan d an d R u ssia p ut i t out of Dr Clar k e s .

power to correspond afterwards w ith his ben efactor ,

l
but he has gi ve n hi m the stro n gest m e m orial of
gratitu de i n his Travels an d adds i n a if ,

l
either he or his fam ily shou ld ever cast their eyes
, ,

u p on these pages they will here n d the o n ly ac

,

k n ow e dgm e n t we have bee n able to re n der for

s u ch u n exam pled be n ev ole n ce Tho ugh n either .

Pa las n or his lady had ever had an Opportu n ity of

seei n g Clarke s Travels they had O fte n heard O f ,

the m So m e m aligna n t spirit had co n v eyed the

.

i n tellige n ce that t his celebrated a u thor h ad spoke n

,

of Pallas w i th d i srespect an d ridic u le an d had cari c a , .

Clark e s Travels p

, . 45 9 .
 25 0 ADA M E AL L AS

M P .

l

t u r e d hi m i n a wo m an s dress acti n g theatrical ,

characters far ben eath his ran k an d dign ity Whe n .

i n for m ed by m e on the con trary that Dr Clarke

, , .

had spoke n of her h usban d with gratitude an d ad

m i r at i on she was high y pleased ; but when I
, ,

added that he had gi ven a represen tation of he r

,

h u sban d an d of herself, i n the costum es of the w i fe

of a R u ssian m erchan t w i th her d u e n n a as e n graved ,

after the drawi n g of Pallas s ow n artist Mr Geisler

, .
,

an d prese n ted to Clarke by her

( a
p
e ar e d o ffe n d ed an d was S ile n t
p , .

Madam e Pallas has played a ver y d ifferen t p art

i n li fe from her s en s ible part n er Seldom have t w o
.

m or e oppos i te characters bee n u n ited She w as .

l
an actress at Petersb u rgh ; an d if ge n eral report
,

be tru e was by n o m ean s di sti n g uished for the

,

l
correctn ess of her con du ct when Pallas al m ost ,
.

do uble her age paid h i s addresses to h e r an d

, ,

aft erwards m ade her his com pani o n i n ife Had .

she then re for m ed her con d u ct perhaps the de ,

c i n i n g years of Pallas m ight have bee n re n dered

happy an d probably the world wou ld n ot have

,

heard of t h e disqu iet u de an d hardships whic h

oppress hi m i n his presen t residen ce an d e m bitter ,

his declin in g days ,an d wh i ch Dr Clarke by .
,

m istake attr ib u ted to the co n d u ct an d n eglect of

,

the R u ss i an govern m e n t His on ly daughter was

.

m arried to a G er m an o fcer B aron Wi m p fen

, .

They had n o ch il dre n an d live d un happ i ly t oge a

,
 l
LO C U ST S . T AR TAR FI R MAN . 25 1

th er a n u m ber of years ago the Baro n shot hi m

self .

At the ti m e we were at Sym p h e r op o e th e whole ,

town an d co un try were i n an u proar i n co n seq u e n ce ,

of m yriads o f loc u sts which were destroyi n g all

,

the prod u cts of the earth an d crowds of T ar ,

tars were occ upied i n the m an n er hereafter de

,

scribed for their destr u ction

, .

l
We gladly accepted the obligin g offer of S ultan .
.

Katti Ghr r i Kri m Gh erri to acco m pan y u s d u r

- -
,

i n g ou r prop osed tou r ro u n d the sou th coast of

the K r i m e a As we had determ i n ed to travel i n a

.

carriage as far as Sev astop o e we proc u red an order , ,

or r m an for ridi n g an d baggage horses fro m t hat

,

town through t he v i ce gover n or ; w ho at ou r r e

,
-
,

qu est also fu rn ished u s with a Greek who spoke

, ,

l
both Tartar an d R u ssian as i n terpreter an d as ,

s i s t an t .

Accordin g to Clarke a n d other s i f travellers , ,

l
are provided with an or d er from the govern or of
the district the Tartars m u st fu rn ish horses odg
, ,

i n gs an d even provision s g r at i s
, an order of ,

which n o hon ou rable stran ger wo uld avail hi m se lf,

were it st i i n existen ce B ut n o s u ch r m an is .

n ow gran ted u n less it be by special favo u r ; an d

,

the givi n g acco m m odatio n s to travellers fr ees the ,

i n divid u als from so m e b u rthe n s A tran slati on of .

ou r r man wi ll show its n at u re

Clark e s Tra els

v , p 5 20
. .
25 2 T AR TAR FI R M AN . SA L B A .

l
l l
f
Op e n O r de r o t he T own an d D i st r i c t P o i c e .

It I s ordered to provi de th e Ital i an s an d ,

an d the E n glish m e n an d ,

Dr Lyall i n thei r j ou rn ey by the sou th coast of th e

.
,

K r i m e an pe n i n s u a the n ecessary n u m ber of s ad d e

,
'
horses with con d u ctors for the xed p r og on (fare )
, , ,

l
an d witho u t dete n tio n .

M ay 1 1 th 1 8 22 .

V i ce -Gover n or,

l
J KR UT . .

Scarcely had we q ui tted Sym p he r op o e wh e n , ,

agai n to ou r vexatio n we fo un d o u rselves i n ast ep ,

co u n try covered by Tau ri c Asphodel (A sp bo

,

l

d e us T a ur i c us ) r i si n g l ike the t ufts of soldiers
caps from am idst but in d iffere n t an d short grass
, ,

an d prod u c i n g a S i n g ular appearan ce This dreary .

scen ery however did n ot lon g co n tin u e : m e a

, ,

dows trees ri lls an d rivulets espec i ally the Bu

, , , ,

g an ak soon e n live n ed th e prospect The road

, .

was pretty good but sca ttered with large ston es

, ,

an d soon beca m e varied by ge n tle asce n ts an d

desce n ts Havi n g letters of i n trod u ction to Sen a

.

tor Bor ozdi n wh o was form erly gover n or of the

,

K r i m e a w e m ade a d to u r to the le ft ; an d p u r
, ,

s u i n g ou r j o u rn ey thro ugh a s m ili n g co un try ,

reached his estate called S abla abou t two o clock , , ,

j u st as the fam ily had r i se n fro m di n n er We were .

well received ; an d to the Sen ator s qu estio n , ,

have you di n e d gen tle m e n we replied i n the

,

ai r m at i v e The S ultan m ore hon estly sai d

. we , , ,
 l
S ABL A . 25 3

breakfasted well an d had a beef steak i n case we

,
-
,

sho uld m eet with n o d i n n er by the way an an swer

l
which proc u red u s a di n n er Sb a or S abli as .
, ,

it is ofte n er called is i n a charm i n g situ ation sur

, ,

ro u n ded by a m o u n tai n ou s an d pict uresqu e co u n

try n ear the river of the sam e n am e which at a
, , ,

short distan ce e m pties i t se f i n t o th e Al m a Wh ile

, .

ram bli n g thro u gh the garde n s we cou ld n ot bu t ,

re m ark the s u dden tran s i tion i n t he co u rse of a

fe w versts fro m bleak n ess an d barre n n ess

, to ,

wooded h ills an d lovely vales an d verdan t lawn s

, , .

The habitation of Mr Bor oz di n has a m ean .

l
exteri or w hich well correspon ds however with i ts
, , ,

in ter i or The Sen ator s taste leads hi m to atte n d
.

m ore to the bea uties of n at u re an d the arra n ge m e n t ,

of h i s garde n s tha n to the order or th e co m fo r t of h i s

,

hou se His library i s a c uriou s m e ang e It co n tain s
. .

m an y good works an d is pretty exte n sive It rather

, .

l
s u rprised u s to see so goo d a on e i n th e possession
of a R u ssian n oble m a n i n the K r i m e an pe n in s u la
, .

It also se r ves as laboratory apothecary s shop an d

, ,

cabi n et of m athe m ati cal an d physical apparatu s ,

l
as a m u se u m of c u riosities especial y of the bows ,

an d arrows of t he Asiatic tribes an d as a r ep osi , ,

tory of childre n s toys The garden s ar e n e ; they

l
.

con tain m an y te n der exoti cs an d an ab un dan ce of ,

m ore hardy plan ts They have a s o a del ightful

.

S hady grove .

A ft er d in n er we were con du cted to the di sta n ce

of abou t thr ee ve r st s t o s e e a c oth m anufac tor y
, ,

25 4 B O R O Z DfN s C L O TH M A N U FA C T OR Y .

which Mr Bor oz di n has e stablished The roa d

. .

lay throu gh elds m eadows an d woods of the , ,

m ost l u x u rian t foliage by t he ban ks of the S abla , .

We were p u rposely co n d u cted over som e h ills .

,

i n order to e nj oy th e i n teresti n g Views m an y parts ,

of which re m i n ded m e of the T r os ac hs i m m ortal ,

l
ised by Scott Mou n tai n s an d rocks dells r a
, , ,

vi n es an d plai n s bea u tifully ador n ed by shr ubbery

, ,

an d woods am o n g which the Al m aan d the S abla

,

w in d give the w hole scen e an ai r of fairy lan d

, .

We exam i n ed th e sheep folds an d saw a t he oper , ,

at i on s of picki n g card i n g an d spi n n i n g the wool

, , ,

a s well as weavi n g an d dyi n g th e cloth perfor m e d

.
,

by T ar t ar s who have bee n trai n ed u n der the t u i

,

tion of a Germ an director Most of the : cloth

. ,
.

show n us w as of an i n ferior qu ali ty an d tted for

-
,

the de m an ds of th e R u ssian m arket ; but so m e

p i eces s u rpri sed u s b y the ir n e n ess an d led u s to ,

the con clu sio n t hat with t he i m p r ov e m e n t s whic h

,

were m aki n g i n the m achi n ery Mr Bor oz di n s m a , .

n u fac t or
y will ha v e the desired s u cces s I n the year .

a r s hi n s abov e yards f cloth

1 82 1 , ( .

) o

were m ade here which averaged twelve ro uble s p er

.
,

ar shin an d were sold for

,
ro ubles T h e .

fabric : yielded a very extraordi n ary prot to the

proprietor ; an d o n th at acco un t he m u st be reck
on e d very fort u n ate especially as the possessors of
,

estates i n the pen i n s ul a ge n e r ally der i ve bu t s m all

r e v e n u es fro m Jth em .

Havin g sen t forward ou r i n terpreter to get a

l PA L A C
w
E or

o dgi n g prepare d for us an d dran k tea i n the grove

already all u ded to, s u rrou n ded by the Charm s of
n at u r
e
, we bade Se
,
B A K T C H I SE R AI .

n ator B or oz di n adie u got i n to the ,

25 5

great road crossed the Al m a an d asce n din g ge n tly

, , ,

l
am o n g the hills reached the border of the n arr ow
,

valley i n whic h lies Bak t c hi se r ai We had r e .

m arked whole districts covered wi th red popp i e s

l
(P ap aver R hce as an d P ap aver d ubi um ) be fore

r eachi n g S m h e r o o e ; an d i n to -day s drive the
y p p ,

sam e appearan ce frequ e n tly prese n ted i ts elf, an d ,

in deed as we afterwards saw is frequ e n t all the

, ,

way to Se v ast op o e We p r oceeded slowly an d .

,

the darkn ess which had overtake n u s con trib u ted

, ,

l
greatly t o the e ffect of the ill um i n ated m i n arets of
B ak t c hi s e r ai The Tartars at servi ce i n the m et
.

c het s or m osqu es ; a s u ccessio n of blazi n g hearths

where swarthy bl acks m iths w ere at wor k i n O pe n

l
sh ops ; an d crowds of the n at i ves ou n gi n g at
the m ar k et places e n gaged ou r eage r atten tion
-
,

n or di d a tri u m phal arch which lay i n our co u rse , ,

an d which as I afterwards fo un d by an i n scr iptio n

, ,

was erected for Catheri n e I s sple n di d e n tran ce .

i n to this town i n 1 7 8 7 escape ou r observation

, , .

We soon reached the palace of the an cien t khan s

of the K r i m e a the gloo m

l
y solitu de of which is sel
,

d om i n terru pted except by t he cas u al abode of

,

stran gers to whose con ve n ie n ce its best apartm en ts

,

are devoted ; th ere be in g n o i n n s or lodgi n gs i n ,

which they co u d be com fortably acco m m odate d ,

i n the tow n T he s u peri n te n dan t of the palace

.
,
25 6 A L AC E B A K TCH I SE R AI

P or .

wa r n e d by a m essen ger of ou r approach had ,

gi ve n orders that all Shou ld be i n readi n ess for ou r

reception Hav i n g crossed a s m all bridge we e n
.
,

t e r e d a large portal passed throu gh a spaciou s co u rt

, ,

an d arrived at the part of the palace desti n ed for

us . So m an y can dles were lighted that i t ap ,

e ar e d as i f an ill um i n at i o n had bee n m ade on

p p ur

p ose to display the Asiatic an d pr in cely gran de u r

of departed sovereig n ty T h e O r i e n tal sce n es whic h
.

l
delighted ou r i m agin atio n i n the d ays of our y ou th ,

i n the Arabia n Nights E n tertai n m e n ts see m ed t o ,

be realised as we asce n ded Spaciou s stairs w an

, ,

dered throu gh lofty halls or co u ched on the green

,

di van s an d sc ai e t p illows which s u rro un d t he

gran d salo on of the an c i e n t k han s of the Kr i m e a .
 C HAP . VI .

P A L A C O A K CH
E F AI K H A N S O T H
B T RIM A
I SE R . F E K E . RE

NO V A T N OF TH
IO A L A C D C R 1 I N O B A K T CH I
E P E. ES PT O , F SE

R AL T CH U UT K AL E A N D T H E K A R A TE J E WS
- TH I R E I . E

C O S T UM -T H I R YN A GO GU M A U S O L UM A N D R O M A N
E . E S Es. E ,

T C HIS
I RY O TO TH D A UG H T R O F T A K T A M H
, F E TH E

IS . E

J E W I S H C EM T R Y T H G R K M O NAS T E R Y I N F L UE NC
E E . E EE . E

O F I M A G I N A T I O N D R SS O F T H E K A R A I T . J E W S D I VI N E E .
- E

S R VI C
E E T H E S C O T C H M I SS I O N A R Y
. T H E M R CH AN S O F . E T

B A K T C H I S R AI J O U R N Y F R O M B A K T CH I SE R AI T o S V AS
E . E E

T O PO L E TH. C A VE R N S O F I N K E R M A N I N SA L UB R T Y O E
E . I

THE A I R SA L T P T R E M A N U F A C T O R I S
.
- L oc U S T s A R
E E . .

R I VA L A T S E V ASTO O L E A N E CDO T ADM I R AL BAI L L I E

P . E . .

O GU R Y
R E CO L L C I ON O F CAT S
. B AY F S VA S T O
E T . O E

P OL E FL T OF H B L A C K S E A D S C R I T I O N O F E v As
EE T E . E P S

TO OL P E I T S P O PU L A T I O N
. .

TH E m orn in g aft er ou r arriv al at Bak t c hi ser ai was

,

well occ up i ed i n the exam in ati o n of t he palace .

V OL . I .
s
25 8 P A L A CE OF B A K T C H I SE R AI .

l
The ower garde n the fr u it garde n n u m ero u s
-
,
-
,

fo un tai n s an d m arble basi n s the k i os k i n which ,

l
the Khan kept his falco n s the apart m e n ts which ,

had been tted up for the acco m m odatio n of Ca

theri n e II the rhar e m o r seragl i o the large
.
, ,

an d ga u dily decorated j u stice h all an d m ore e s -

,

p e c i a
y the m ag n ice n t apart m e n t i n which we
had reposed all clai m ed atten tion , As to the .

gen eral arran ge m e n t of this palace i n the tim es

of i ts a n cie n t sple n do u r Castel n au re m arks that , ,

M aho m ed the dead an d the horses were on on e

, , ,

s i de t he Sovereign the wives an d the falcon s on

, , , ,

the other It has been described by Pallas an d
.

Clarke an d at great le n gth by Castel n au ; an d

, , ,

t h e two r st n am ed a u thors -as well as Mrs , .

Holdern ess have tho ught it worth y of a plate ;

,

l
therefore m y re m arks m ay be very short *
.

The ce m etery an d the m au sole um s of the ,

departed Khan s which form the s ubj ect of the ,

Vign ette to this chapter adj oi n t o the palace an d , ,

i f the heart s of their s u ccessors were s u sceptib e

l
of the higher feeli n g s of our n at u re thes e m o n u ,

m e n t s m u st have serve d as faith ful an d con ti n u al

m e m e n tos of the u n certai n ty of h u m an greatn ess .

l
The ce m etery was i n great con fu sion an d the pri n ,

c i a cau se of th i s i s said to be the horror with

p

I f th e t r
av e ll r c e an ca rry th e w o rk s of a h hr
t e s e au t o s
i h h im
w t , he w ill d n e ac h to h av e i ts ad v an t a ge s. On q it t i g
u n

the K rim ea or t he K uban ,

he c an s e n d h
t em by p o t t o M os
s

c ow or Pe t e r b rgh
s u , an d from th enc e

the y c an be c on ey e dv

t o any plac e h e lik es.

 KH ANS OF TH E KE I M EA . 25 9

wh i ch the Tartars regard e v ery violati o n of the

soil as of the m o n um e n ts of their sovereign s The
, .

history of the Khan s of the K r i m ea i s very i n ter

esti n g The i n trig u es deception an d treachery
.
, , ,

the elevation dethro n e m en t an d rap i d s u cces

, ,

sion of pri n ces i n the T aur idan pe n i n s u la po w er

, ,

fully re m i n d us of the m addest m ost u ctu ati n g , ,

an d m ost san g u i n ary per i od of the Ro m an e m pire ,

when sovereign s presen ted the m selves an d d isap

e ar e d like actors u po n a stage The reader who
p .

is desiro u s of beco m i n g i n ti m ately acqu ain ted with

the dyn as ties of the Kha n s an d their history is re ,

ferred to the works of Pallas Se s t r e n e vi c z de ,

Bohuj z Castel n au G uthrie Clarke &c

, , , , .

I was happy to n d that the p alace of Bak t c hi

serai , t he m os t perfect a n d the m ost re m arkable
m o n u m e n t of O rie n tal m ag n ice n ce n ow i n the
K r i m e a is abo u t to be restored to its for m e r state
, .

By partic u lar orders of Catheri n e II while de .

,

str u ctio n an d desolation followed the progress of

l
the R u ssian s this palace was preser v ed e n tire ; an d
,

as a proo f of the un iversal respect with which it was

treated it was n ot con verted i n to barracks d uri n g
,

the tran s form i n g reign of Paul But it has bee n .

left to the libera i ty of Alexan der to arrest the all

destroyi n g han d of ti m e which was fast obliterati n g
,

all traces of i ts form er m agn ice n ce The E astern .

Sple n do u r of this establish m e n t m ay soo n be the .

the m e of other pen s whe n t r ave llers shall n o lo n ger

,

s 2
2 60 R ENO VA T I O N O F TH E P A L A CE B A K T C H I SE R AI .

be ad m itted to sleep wi thi n its walls The esti m ate .

for the repairs of the whole str u ctu re am o u n ts to

ro ubles ; an d I w as ass u red that
of that sum had already bee n received for their

exec ution .

Bak t c hi se r ai l i terally sign ies garde n palace an d -

,

w as for m erly the cap ital of the K r i m e a It does .

n ot appear however that i t ever was a town of

, ,

g reat m ag n i t u de or had a great pop u latio n

,
Si nce .

the R u ssian s by i n trigu e treachery an d force of

, , ,

arm s becam e m aster s of the pe n i n s u la Sym p h e r o

, ,

pole has been th e chief town of th e govern m e n t of

T au r i da an d the reside n ce of its g o
, vern or .

l
Bak t c hi se r ai i s a sin gu lar town wh i ch occ up i e s ,

a n arrow valley ; or as Dr Clarke says , th e .

,

Craggy Si des of a prodigio u s n at u ral fosse betwee n ,

two high m ou n tain s S o m ewh at like that of Mat

,

lock i n Derbyshire
, The stream Tc hur u r S u
.
,
-

l
sti n ki ng water traverses the tow n the ho u ses of
( ) , ,

whic h are elevated i n terraces on e above the ,

other alo n g the sides of th e hills an d are i n ter

, ,

m i xed w ith garde n s vi n eyards cl u m ps of trees an d

, , ,

e s e c ra
p y L o m bardy poplars watered by n u m ero us
,

fou n tain s an d can als wh i c h have their so u rces ,

l
am on g the su rrou n din g moun tai n s The n u m e .

rou s m i n arets of the m osqu es t he an cien t p a ,

lace with the a dj oi n i n g m au soleu m s an d a pro ,

fusion of white chi m n eys risi n g a m idst the r i chest

fol i age prod u ce a pec u i arly bea u ti ful an d p i e
,

t u r e squ e effect w h i ch i s i n desc r ibable but m ay be

, ,
 D E S C R I PT I O N OF B A K T CH I S E R AI 2 61

l l
.

co n ce i ved fro m a plate i n Pallas s Travels to whic h ,

the reader i s re ferred Tho ugh the town does n ot

.

co n tai n on e m ag n ice n t object yet there i s a si n ,

u ar i t an d bea u ty i n the t out ense m b e wh i c h -

g y ,

can n ot fail to yi eld m u ch pleas u re to the sp e c t a

tor L ike m an y other sce n es it pleases m ore by
.
,

its apparen t than its real bea uty ; for whe n ex ,

am i n e d i n deta il Bak t c hi s e r ai is a s habby town

, .

l
The streets are n arrow wi n d in g an d dirty The
, , .

hou ses are ge n erally s m all an d their ex uberan ce of

,

n eat wh i te washed chi m n eys the Tartars see m t o

-

l
thi n k a great orn am en t for on e hal f of the m are of
,

n o u ti i ty
. The rows of shops alon g both sides of
the pri n cipal street are excess i vely m ean I n their
appearan ce The shops for all ki n ds of p r ovi s i on s
ar e worthy of a visit ; bu t the traveller w i n d
m ore a m u se m e n t i n those of the saddlers arm o ur ,

ers c u tlers an d boot m akers Th e Tartars of

, ,
- .

Bak t c hi se r ai were o n ce celebrated for the excel

le n e y of their saddlery ; an d m u ch of the i r work
m an s hi p was se n t to Their c ut
lery we had heard h ighly boas ted ; bu t whatever ,

m ay have bee n the cla i m of their an cestors to this

di stin ctio n the prese n t race c an have n on e Man y
, .

of the i r art i cles m ay have bee n well te m pered bu t

l
,

they were very roughly n ished or rather were , ,

n ot n ished at all an d especially the ir k n i ves

an d pe n k n i v es .

I n his peram b u latio n s am o n g the shops the ,

vis i tor wi ll n ot fai t o r e mark an ab un dan ce of the

s 3
2 62

na
) wit
,
h
l
D E S C R I PTI O N

darkish yel o w powder called hn a (L awson ia a c an

-

an i n fu sio n of which the n atives dye the i r

n ails every w here exposed for sale

,
OF B A K T C H I S E R AI

.
.

l
Dr Clarke has given a lively descriptio n of the
.

l
destr uction of Bak t c hi se r ai after the con qu est of ,

the Kr i m e a thro ugh the savage an d wan to n

,

barbarity of the R u ssian s I n the year 1 7 93 .
,

accordi n g to Pallas this tow n co n tai n ed thirty on e

,
-

m osqu es m ostly b ui t of he w
, n sto n e an d or n a ,

m e n t e d with m i n arets ; a Greek ch u rch ; an Ar

m e n i an ch u rch two sy n agog ues ; three M ah om e
d an schools ; t w o baths co n str u cted i n the T urkish ,

m an n er an d covered with n e c upolas ; S ixtee n

,

l
k hans or large ho u ses which serve as i n n s or m a
, ,

az i n e s twe n ty on e taver n s n i n etee n Tart ar c of

-
g
fe e ho u ses ; ve m ills ; an d 5 1 9 shops
- O f the s e .

shops 1 2 1 were occ upied by m ercers forty on e by

,
-

saddlers an d cu rriers ; 1 25 by the sellers of ea t a b e s

t w e n ty fo u r by Shoe m akers twe n ty three by Tar
- -

tar c utlers ; five by braz iers ; t e n by barbers ;

n i n etee n by taylors ; Si x by golds m iths ; ve by

arm ou rers ; eight by boot m akers ; an d twe n ty by -

bakers B esides there were thirtee n stalls where

.
, ,

was sold a k i n d of dri n k prepared fro m m ille t ,

called busa by the Tartars ; n i n e wood m agazi n es ;

eight barrel m agaz i n es ; ve rope works ; seve n

-

m an ufactories of felt caps an d felt m a n tles ; fo u r

- -

of pottery ware ; thirtee n of ca n dles ; ve of t o

-

bacco pipes ; thirtee n tan n eries an d M orocco lea

- -

ther establish m e n ts ; six s m ith i es an d seve n shop s

 D E S C R I PTI O N OF B A K T CH I S E R AI . 2 63

l
of wood e n gravers The total n u m ber of ho u ses
- .

was recko n ed at 1 5 61 As we are i n form ed

.

by a statistical m ap of the K r i m e a that the presen t ,

n u m ber is 1 622 ; it follows that the i n crease of ,

str u ct ures i n this town i n the cou rse of t he ast

, .

thirty years o nly am ou n ts to thirty on e ; a s u re i h

,
-

d i c at i on of n o g r eat prosperity .

I n 1 7 93 Pallas stated that the pop u latio n of

,

Bak t c hi se r ai am o u n ted to so uls of whom ,

3 1 66 were m ales an d 2 61 0 fe m ales

, This n um .

ber i n cl uded 204 Greeks of both sexes ; fo u r

tee n n obles ; an d forty t w o m erchan ts ; fty on e
- -

A r m e n ian s ; 1 1 62 Jews of whom 42 0 were i n,

scribed as m erchan ts ; an d n early 3000 Tartars ,

a m o n g whom were twe n ty n obles 2 8 7 m erchan ts , ,

1 63 priests an d seve n ty ch u rch clerks

, .

Catheri n e II gave up Bak t c hi se r ai e n ti rely to

.

the Tartars so that it con tain s n o R u ssian bur

,

gesses Its R ussian pop u latio n co n sists of person s

.

l
of ran k who either hold so m e appoi n tm e n t or who
, ,

ha ve r etir ed fi o m acti ve service to th i s town as a n

~

l
agreeable reside n ce The Tartars an d the Jews
.
, ,

have their ow n m agistrates Accordi n g to Castel .

n au , the co m m erce of Bak t c hi s er ai was d e c m m g

i n the year 1 8 1 2 ; bu t i t is n ow m or e acti ve than

it has been for so m e years past Its p op u a .

tio n has con siderably aug m e n ted an d it bears an ,

i m m en se r ati o to the s m all i n crease of hou ses

for th ei r a c co m m odati o n But the probab il ity i s
.
,

s 4
 l
l l
2 64 D E S C R I P TI O N OF B A K T C H I S E R AI .

that i n 1 7 93 m an y of the Tartar hou ses were

,

e m pty which are n ow fu ly occ up i ed

,
.

For t he fo l owi n g rece n t a n d very acc u rate i n

for m atio n I am i n debted to a ge n tle m a n who r e
,

sided i n the K r i m e a an d whose n am e it wo u d at , ,

this m o m e n t be i m pru den t to m e n ti on eve n tho ugh

, ,

h e be beyo n d the fron tiers of R u ss i a I shall u se .

h i s ow n words
I n regard to the pop ulatio n of thi s place
B ak t c hi se r ai ) prev i o u s to the occ upation of t h e
(
pe n i n s ula b y the R u ss i an s I have n o certai n m ean s ,

l
of i n for m atio n But wi tho ut hazardi n g any c on
.

je c t u r e on the s u bj ect I can n ot th i n k that it far

,

e x ceeded what it is at prese n t As to its presen t .

pop ulati on I am happy to give you th e followi n g

table extracted fro m an oi c i a d oc u m e n t

l l Fml
M a es e a es . Tota l
. .

G e n tl e m e n r ri ti

l
an d O fc e s Ch s an 40 26 66
i h their f m ili
w t a M h m des a o e an 22 20 42

ll
i ti w i th the i
c c e s as
( cs
f m ili ) w h o i
a es irt u Chri ti
n v e s an 6
of th ir ef O M h om e d
c e ar e e x a an 2 30
m p t d from
e e t x a a es

M r h t
}
f t h t hi d
M ah om d "
e c an s o e r
e a 32
g iud w i,th t h i f m i i
e r a es

B rgh r Wi th th ir f
u e s,
C hri ti
e a
s an 89
M h m da a o e n 41 1 6
h s e
J w i h K r it e s a a e 645
S ttl r from th r t ow
e e s o d e ti o n s an na ns 37 0

Tot l a 5 550

Th e p tio of ere m e a r
ad o n sev su e s t ow a rd f r ig r
s o e n e s, i n R us
si a, s n i c I p ublishe d The Ch t
e a r a c er
f
o the R ussi a n s , & c m a e s . k
me c au ti ou s i m e tio i g n am e
n n n n s .
 l
D E S C R I PT I O N OF B A K T C H I S E R AI . 2 65

You will observe that i n the above e n um e r

atio n , the Karaite Jews of T c hufut K a are set -

dow n as freem e n of the tow n I n the table are n ot .

i n cl u ded eight fam ilies of Ar m e n ian s There ar e

,
.

n ot above ve or s i x fa m ilies of R u ssian s the r e

m ai n de r of the m desig n ated as Christian s i n the
table are all Greeks The followi n g e n u m erati on
.

m ay also grati fy you

l
Gre e k
Churche s Gre e k m on as t ery
r
A m en i an

M ah om e dan qu s m os e

K arait e T c h ufut K a
i
-

l
Sy agc gnue s
R abbi i al n c

Chri ti p arish hool

s an sc

M h om da p bli c s chool s
a e n u

Publi c fou t ai s n n

Although the distan ce of T c hrrfut K a fro m -

Bak t c hi se r ai is o n ly abo u t fo u r versts to save ti m e ,

we hired Tartar horses an d set off to v isit this r e

,

ma rkable Vi llage or town as i t i s called Havi n g

, , .

j u st left t he preci n cts of Bak t c hi s e r ai we pau sed to ,

regard the wild scen ery with which we were s ur

l l
rou n ded co m posed of broke n an d i m pe n di n g pre
,

c i i c e s m asses of detached rock an d deep ravi n es

p , , .

The road at rst ge n tly accli vi to u s becam e m ore

, ,

an d m ore steep as we approached the e n tran ce of

T c hufut Ka Tho ugh we passed over bare rocks

- .
,

yet the ascen t was by n o m ean s so dii c u t as i s r e

prese n ted by so m e travellers .

T c hrr fut K al e ha s a s in gular an d p i ct uresqu e
-
,

2 66 T C H II PU T - K AL E A N D TH E KA R A I TE J E W S .

bu t m ea n , appearan ce little i n u n i son with the

gran de u r of the n at ural sce n ery by which i t is e n
v i r on e d It occ upies a bold trian gular rock be
.

twee n two deep ravi n es an d i s fortied i f we m ay

, ,

so speak by n at u ral walls on two Si des while the

, ,

base j oi n s to a neighbo u ri n g h ill on the n orth The .

streets are n arrow an d i rreg ular bu t clean an d the , ,

n ak ed rock for m s their pav e m e n t A fe w of the m .

have t r ottoi r s for the co n ve n ie n ce of the i n habit

an ts a ren e m en t which we did n ot expect to n d
,

i n s u ch a spot A S am o n g the Tartars the ho u ses

.
,

o f the n at i ves am o un ti n g to abou t 2 00 are sur

, ,

ro un ded by high walls an d are b u ilt of r ude m asses

,

of li m esto n e ce m e n ted together wi th C lay an d

, ,
"

l
prese n t but a very m ean exteri or .

Pallas lon g ago reckon ed the pop ulatio n of

, ,

T c hufu t K al e at 1 200 so uls

- at prese n t i t o n ly
a m ou n ts to 1 1 2 0 .

Dr L an ge of Sy m p he r op o e had give n u s a
.
, ,

l
letter for the Jewis h Rabb i who we fo un d had , , ,

j u st con cl u ded divi n e servi ce I t bein g the Je wish.

l
sabbat h he hi m self co u ld n ot receive the letter bu t ,

i t was given to h i s secretary H e e n tertai n ed u s well

.
,

however an d ordered us a dram of vodt ci wh i le

,

bread an d con serve of r oses were pla c ed before

, ,

us. The Rabbi s wife an d da ughters had all di s
appeared an d we o n y saw the m whe n pro m pted
, ,

by cu riosity they stole a look at u s through latticed

,

win dows .We were placed upo n a divan i n a ,

s m all room i n to wh i ch t he wi n d had fre e acces s

,

in
THEI R C O STUM E TH E I R

s u m m er thro ugh th e bars of t he w in dows ; i n

,

w i n ter it is excl u ded by oi e d paper The Rabbi

is a revere n d looki n g m an ; he is disti n gu ished for
-
l
S Y N A G O G UE S

.
. 2 67

l
his tale n ts an d i s highly respected by his ock H e
,
.

has p ublished a work upo n astron o m y i n Hebrew , ,

a n d he also s howed u s a cale n dar of his co m positio n

i n the sam e lan gu age .

The Karaite Jews of T c hufu t K a havin g lived -

,

from ti m e i m m e m orial u n der the do m i n ation of

,

the Tartars have al m ost e n tirely adopted their

,

cost u m e the i r lan g u age thei r c u stom s an d the ir

, , ,

m a nn ers .

Adj oi n i n g to the Rabbi s hou se we visited t w o
n early si m ilar syn agog u es both oblo n g plai n edi , ,

c e s on e story high b u ilt of sto n e covered with

, , ,

l
tiles an d lighted by s m all latticed wi n dows The
,
.

chief syn agogu e is disti ngu is hed by piazzas i n its

fro n t . The par t of it appropriated to fe m ales
has a separate en try form s a k i n d of elevated
,

ga l ery an d is co m pletely sh u t up by lattices

, ,

so that the i n m ates are i n vi sible The i nt erior .

of the edice is s u rro un ded by S helves loaded

with books which are u sed by the co n grega

,

tio n d u ri n g service an d is adorn ed by n u m erou s

,

C han deliers which have been received as prese n ts

, .

We were Shown differe n t C opies of the Pe n tate u ch ,

whic h were kept i n ro un d orn am en ted cases i n a ,

n iche i n the wall co n cealed by a scree n an d

, ,

correspon di n g to the place of the altar, over which

was i n scribed i n Hebre w Jehovah , .
 2 68 M A US O L E UM A ND R O M A NT I C H I ST O R Y

the co urt of the other syn agog u e we fo un d

In
an i n scri ptio n u po n a sto n e set u po n the top of the

wall i n co m pli m e n t to his I m perial M aj esty Al e x

,

a n der i n co n sequ e n ce of his visit to this spot on

, ,

the 1 8 th May 1 8 1 8 which see m ed to have gi ve n

, ,

great pleas u re an d satis factio n .

The Jews n ext co n d u cted u s to view the

m a u sole u m of a Tartar pri n cess an d da ughte r of ,

T ak t am i sh ; a s m all han dso m e e dice with an ,

elegan t portico an d con sis ti n g of two vau lts the

, ,

on e above the other Pallas all u des to the history .

of this pri n cess ; an d Castel n a u received the follow

i n g acco u n t wh i ch i s take n fro m a Tu rk i sh h i story

,

l
of the Kha n s

Tam erlan e had con qu ered the Kip t c hak frOm "
the Khan T ak t am i sh i n the year 1 3 92 His reign
, , .

was eighty ve or eighty Si x years an terior to th e

- -

dyn asty of Gherri A yo un g prin ce whose va ou r .

,

had o fte n bee n re m arked by Tam erlan e m erited ,

the estee m of this warrior an d he ceded the n e w ,

provi n ce to hi m The daughter of the Khan .

,

yo u n g pretty an d happy i n spired a stro n g passion

, , ,

i n the possessor of her father s estates The lover .

sol i ci ted his be n e factor to restore the K ip t c hak t o

T ak t am i sh on con di tio n that the h an d of hi s
,

Th e em pire of K ip t c h ak i cl
n u de d th e no rth of As i a, R us
s ia, p art of Pola d a d e e
a n , n v n x t e de d i t o G erm a y a d
e n n n n

H g ry A ft er th e c o que st
un a . n by T am rl a e i t w as d i id e d
e n v

i t o t he four kha at s of K az an
n n , A s trachan K ip t c h ak an d th e
, ,

Kr im ea .
 l
OF TH E D A U G H TE R OF T A K T A M i S H . 2 69

daughter sho uld beco m e the price of t hi s resti

t u t i on. Tam erlan e co n se n ted to this ; an d the old
Khan accepted the offer witho ut di i c u ty Tak .

t a m i sh forgot the n oble actio n s of Ta m erlan e an d , ,

hopi n g to n d a defe n der i n the person of hi s son

i n law be ca u sed a revolt of the pri n cipal perso n s
-
,

of his co u n try agai n st the co n u eror an d ut h i m

q p ,

sel f at the head Of a coalition co m posed of weak

an d disco u raged states Preferr i n g ho n o ur to love
.
,

the yo u n g h usban d did n ot qu it the stan dard of

Tam erlan e The Khan was de feated an d rep u lsed

.
,

even to the e n viro n s of Bak t c hi se r ai the coal ition

l
was di ssolved an d the ven gean ce of Tam erlan e
, ,

bei n g sati sed he directed his steps towards other

,

e n e m ies As a reco m pen ce for his delity the

.
,

yo un g Pr i n ce of K ip t c hak O btain ed per m ission to

rej oi n the pri n cess T c hI I fut Ka had the n an other
.
-

de n om i n ation an d was reckon ed an i m pregnable

,

fortress . The Khan an d his dau ghter h ad taken

re fuge with in its walls T he n ews havi n g bee n .

bro ught to the Khan that Tam erlan e had pen e ,

l
t r at e d i n to R u ss i a he i m m ediately departed as
, ,

s e m bled all the troops he co uld m u ster left a ,

co m m an dan t i n the place an d prep ar ed to c ut off ,

the retreat of the e n e m y an d deliver the T au r i da ,

an d i ts e n viro n s fro m so for m idab e a co n qu eror .

Two day s after the Khan had qu itted T c hufu t

K al e the Pri n ce of K ip t c hak arrived there After
,
.

the rst tran spor ts of disappoi n ted love the Pri n cess ,

d e m an ded that her lover sho ul d com m an d the for

27 0 H I ST O R Y O F TH E DA U G H TE R O F T A K T A M i SH .

l
t r ess ; but the o fc e r appoin ted by t he Khan r e
fused to obey her The garriso n was di vided i n t o
.

t wo parties an d ready to take ar ms

, A nother per .

s on wished to play his part I n this disagree abl e

affair w hi ch did n ot con cer n h i m N ot su i c i e n t y

, .

eloqu en t to un i te i rritated spiri ts he pers u aded

!
,

each of the parties that the other had yielded a n d ,

r o ose d t o ter m i n ate all r e m am m a n i m osity by a

'

p p g
feast I n t h e m e an ti m e out of regard to the
'

.
,

Prin cess be appoi n ted some i n d ivid u als to awai t

,

a c ertain sign al i n order to tran sfer the co mm an d

,

to the Pri n ce of K i pt c hak Scarcely were the chie fs .

asse m bled whe n the feast co m m e n ced an d the ,

sign al was give n The co m m an dan t s urpris ed by.

,

tu m ults beh eld t he part played an d cried ou t

, , ,

t r eas on t r ea s on !
, The cou n sellor of th e parties
expired u n der hi s strokes an d the hall r eso u n ded ,
'

W ith the clashi ng of arm s an d the gro an s of the

woun ded The tum ult i n c r eased as th e spirit of
.

the parti es waxed warm The Pr i n ce was wo u n ded ; .

at the sight of his blood h i s lover thre w herself ,

i n to his ar m s f -they were stabbed to the heart

,
-

an d fell down dead locked i n each other s e m brace , .

This spectacle petried the assem bly w it h horror .

Fear repe n tan ce an d re m orse w ere depicted on

, ,

every visage ; s ile n ce s u cceeded an d the c om ,

m an dan t so ught securi ty by a rap i d ight

The Khan had n ot advan ce d m ore than 20 0

versts when he saw hi m sel f aban do n ed by all
,

those who had sho w n the m ost i mplacabi li ty agai n st

 l
TH E J E W I S H C E M E TE R Y . 27 1

Tam erlan e Alarm seized h i s wh ole arm y an d

.
,

eve n cau sed the m ost hardy to retrograde The .

old Pri n ce retu rn ed to T c hi rfut K a acco m pan ied -
,

o n ly by a fe w horse m e n U n happily for his am .

bi t i on it was o n ly n ow that his eyes were ope n ed

, ,

an d that he experie n ced re m orse W hich was car ,

r i e d t o its height by the death of his dau ghter It

'
f
.

was on this occasion that he raised the m au sole u m

already m e n tio n ed i n which the pri n cess an d her
,

h u sban d were i n terred .

The ge n erosity an d n oble con d u ct of the Asiatic

con qu eror Ta m erlan e ; the herois m ho n o u r an d
, , ,

delity of the Pri n ce of K ip t c hak the i n grati

,

t u de p e r dy disasters an d re m orse of T ak t am i sh
, , ,

the reciprocal an d steady love of the Pri n cess ;

the r m n ess an d faith fu l n ess of the Co m m an dan t

lll
an d the tragic death of the L overs m ight fu rn ish ,

a n e s ubj ect for the dram a .

B ut to retu r n to our ow n s u bj ect : we were n ext

i n vited by on e of the richest m erchan ts of t h e
p ace to Vi sit his ho u se H avm g seated o u rselves
.

arou n d a ow table vodt k i con serve of roses bread

, , , ,

l
ab un dan ce of wi n es ba l s of m i n ced m u tto n rolled
,

u
p i n vi n e leaves m utto n p i es &c were prese n ted
, , .

to us .

We bade the Jews adie u an d speedily arrived at ,

their charm i n g ce m etery called the Va ey of Je ,

hoshap hat which is well descr ibed both by Pallas
,

an d Clarke Havi n g asce n ded a h i ll to the n orth

.
,

we had an excelle n t view of the m oun tai n scen ery

27 2 TH E GR E E K M ON A S TE R Y .

of the Kr i m e a We the n en tered a deep gle n

.
,

c overed with t r ees an d b ru sh wood a m o n g whic h -

,

are a great m a ny i n teresti n g plan ts A shrill .

s q u eaki n g n oise had attracted ou r n otice which ,

we n ow discovered to proceed fro m Tartar carts ,

l
called A r a bas m ade e n tirely of wood E ach has
, .

two great wheels se t ver y w i de as u n der which

, ,

l
a r e n ever greased beca u se appare n tly the Tartars
, , ,

do n ot di slike their n oi se an d they Say that n o

hon est m an will grease the wheels of his cart
Soo n after passi n g the r ui n s O f an exte n sive p a
lace called A sh am a we reached the Greek m o
, ,

n ast e r
y ; which we had re m arked i n the m or n i n g .

T his establish m e n t for m ed by excavatio n s i n t he

,

fro n t of a perpe n d i c ula r rock has bee n described ,

by Pallas Clarke an d Casteln au I n early agr ee

, , .

with the latter au thor who says O n e m u st ha v e

, ,

l
l
a great deal of m eri t m u c h sel f c on d e n c e , or -
,

m ore than h um a n resig n ati o n i n choosi n g the m ost ,

l
s avage isolated an d fri ghtfu l place i n n at u re for
, ,

a res i de n ce I on ly con s i der i t as a d ungeon per

.

e n di c u ar y s i tu ated It i s n ow n o lo n ger the
p .

r eside n ce of m o n ks bu t is i n habited by a solitary

,

co up e an old m an an d h i s w i fe who are its

, ,

keepers As the calcareou s rock is soft there

.
,

cou ld be n o great d ifc ulty i n c u tti n g out subt e r

r an e an cha m bers bu t it is the o v erhan gi n g positio n
of part of the rock w itho ut any s upport whic h
, ,

re n ders it s i n gular an d fr ightful A wooden bal .

con y is erected i n its fro n t fro m wh i ch we had a ,

 IN F L UE N C E OF IM AG I N A T I ON

l . 27 3
'

l

Vie w of the de le of T c hi rfut K a an d the su r -
,

ro un di n g m o u n tai n s an d rocks a sce n e si n g ularly ,

wild an d fan tastic .

As we e n tered Bak t c hi s er ai on ou r retu r n we , ,

di strib ut ed a fe w s m all p i eces of si v er to a Jewish

wo m an an d so m e childre n who i m m ediately gav e ,

n otice to their frie n ds They were SOon j oi n ed

.

by a crowd of other wo m en an d ch i ldre n who e x hi ,

bited m an y sign s of poverty who were lo u d i n their ,

l
e n treaties for assistan ce an d who Showed the ,

m ean n ess of the i r spirit i n the slavish m an n er by

which they de m o n strated their gratit u de .

O n t h e followi n g day I acco m pan i ed on e of the

party on a secon d vi sit to T c hI I fu t K a so as to -
,

l
be prese n t at d ivi n e service it bei n g the c om ,

m e m oratio n of God s gi v i n g the co m m a n d m e n ts to
Moses Un der preten ce of seeki n g the Rabbi
.
,

l
who m we kn ew to be i n the syn agog ue we c an ,
.

t i ou s y e n ter ed the ho u se an d fo u n d h i s w i fe an d
,

fo u r dau ghters i n the roo m i n which we had bee n ,

received the day be fore an d i n their best dress , .

They all e n deavo ure d to r un away except the o d ,

wom an but were pre ven ted The da ughters gaze d

, .

at u s an d we at the m
, They were n o lo n ger the
.

Rabbi s daughters of the precedi n g day as see n ,

whe n h al f v eiled thro ugh latticed wi n dows We

-
,
.

had fan cie d the m beautifu l as hour i s i m agi n ati on ,

havi n g s upplied t hat which n at u re had den ied A .

n earer Vie w destroyed the i ll u sio n To day they .

were cl u m sy p oc k m arked an d eve n u gly They

,
-
, .

V OL . I . T
274 D RE S S OF THE KA R A I TE JE w s: .

were e xcessively shy ; an d on ou r approach they ,

retreated to the corn ers of t he room O n tou ch .

i ng so m e or n a m e n ts of the oldest dau ghter thou gh ,

with the m other s per m is sion She See m ed su rprised , ,

an d so alar m ed that we feared sh e wo u ld have

falle n i n to a hyster i c t .

T he dress of the fe m ales was n ot calc ulated to

set off the g u re to advan tage Their hea d s were .

covered with low red caps an d thei r lo n g plaited ,

hair h u n g down their backs D ucats sequin s an d .

, ,

variou s other gold coi n s form ed the orn am en ts of

,

their n ecks Their exterior garm e n ts were beau

.

ll
tifu l sil k peli sses whic h n early con cealed a k in d of
,

short petticoat worn above their trowsers U n der

, .

the i r pel isses they wore broad leather girdles t he

, ,

e n ds of whi c h were j oi n e d i n fro n t by m ean s of

brass plates i n form of a ook This gir d e passed
, .
,

n ot ro u n d the waist but i m m ediately above the

hips an d d estroyed all the sy m m etry of the fe m ale

,

for m .
a

The old lady was quite at her ease with u s an d ,

l
obliged her dau ghters to re m ai n i n the room Per .

haps a s m all prese n t had its e ffect i n proc u ri n g th i s

co n descen sion an d the i n tell ige n ce h avi n g been
co n veyed am o n g the n eighbou rs explai n e d as I , ,

s uppose the cau se of the fe m ales of T c hufut K a

,
-
,

who had ed from ou r prese n ce O n the preced in g -

day havi n g assem bled i n the streets an d havi n g

, ,

eagerly gazed at u s thro ugh their veil

'

We e n tered the syn agog ue an d re m ain ed d uring ,

 D I V I NE SE R VI C E - TH E S COTCH A Y
M I S SI O N R 275

l l
. .

par t ofthe s e rvi ce T he Rabb i robed i n wh ite

.
, ,

an d with his face to the altar s o m et m es re m ai n ed

i ,

m u te an d s o m eti m es Spoke with co n s i derable ges

, e

t i c u at i on The co n gregati o n was n u m e ro u s A

. .

who cou ld m ake us e of it held the Hebrew Ps alte r

i n their han ds ; an d at ti m e s ac co m pa n i ed each
, ,

l
other i n rea di n g As a m ark of disti n ction they
.
,

had a white li ne n sc ar f t hr ow n over their Sho ulders ,

an d s m all silk bags depe n di n g fro m th eir le ft ar m s .

Those who cou ld n ot read had n e i ther books n Or ,

these orn am e n ts ; an d am o ng the m were re m arked , ,

som e yo u ths but very fe w a du t s The m erchan t

, .

at whos e ho u se we had bee n e n tertai n ed a s soo n as ,

he had observed u s ordered C hairs an d m ade sign s

, ,

for u s to re m ai n seated eve n whe n t he co n grega ,

l
tion stood u p or k n elt which we recei v ed as a
, ,

m ark of atte n tio n and at the sa m e ti m e of great

,

liberality .

The m or n i ng after our arrival at Bak t c hi ser ar the

R e v Mr Carru thers the Scotch Missi o n ary ca l ed
. .
, ,

upo n u s an d i n vited u s to di n n er ; an i n vitatio n

,

whic h we readily accepted This ge n tle m an with .

,

his wi fe an d fam i ly hav e bee n stati o n ed there ,

for so m e year s ; an d at the peri od of our visit he , ,

was e m ployed i n the s tu dy of t he Tartar an d the

T urki sh lan gu ages an d i n gr eat hopes of bei n g
,

u se ful i n i n str u cti n g an d co n verti n g so m e of the

M ah om e dan i n ha bita n t s of the K r i m e a Acc ord .

i n g to the followi n g extract fro m a letter dated ,

.

S t Peter sb ur gh March the 2 d

.
, it appears ,

T 2
97 6 MER CH ANTS O F B A K T CH I S E R AI .

that he d id n ot deceive hi m sel f Priv ate acco u n ts .

fro m the K r i m e a state that t he Scotch M i ss i o n ary

, ,

l
Carru thers n ow settled there proceeds with the
, ,

greatest zeal an d s u ccess i n co n v erti n g the Tartars

l
to Christian ity A great n um ber of the m have
.

bee n baptised by hi m Colo n ies are to be estab .

i she d for these co n v erts an d divi n e serv ice will be ,

perform ed i n the Tartar lan gu age A T u rkish .

she i c an d lear n ed m an is now receivi n g a n ed u ca

t i on to q u alify hi m for the o ffi ce of a Christian

priest .

We de t e r m i n e d t o prot by the lesson which

'

t h e visit to Staroy e O zero affor ded u s i n order to ,

get ad m ittan ce to the ho u ses t o see the fe m ales , ,

an d to have an opport u n i ty of observi n g the cha

r ac t e r an d m a n n ers of the Kri m Tartars I there .

fore p u rchased a qu an tity of s m all leather n p u rses ,

tobacco bags pocket books an d k n i v es as well as

-
,
-
, ,

a n um ber of s m all silver coi n s which were to ,

be distrib u ted where we stoppe d to di n e or to ,

pass the n ight We provided o u rselves likewise

.

l
with hair bags for ou r portm an teau s an d l uggage
-
,

w hich we fo un d to be a great co n ve n ien ce ; an d

also with Tartar whips for which we had little ,

occasion .

As at Sym p he r op o e the n ati v e m erch an ts of

Bak t c hi se r ai were c u n n in g an d i m posi n g an d ,

asked double treble an d q u adruple the real val u e

, ,

of an y article as its xed price

,
.

The s uperin te n dan t havi n g re fused with d i sdai n

J O UR NE Y F R O M B A K T C H I SE R AI T O S E V AST O PO L E 277

l
.

a t w e n ty ve ro u ble n ote we m ade a prese n t of it

- -
,

to the people an d soldiers abou t the palace an d ,

,

took leave of Bak t c hi se r ai on the 1 5 t h of May ,

.

The ride fro m Bak t c hi s e r ai to S e vast op o e I n ,

n e weather i s really delight ful

,
Six versts from .

the rst tow n we crossed the K atcha which ows ,

l
thro ugh a delicio u s valley ; an d soo n after w ards , ,

we e n tered a n e an d exte n sive v ale through which ,

the road wi n ds alo n g the co u rse of the Belb ek or

K abar t a till withi n three or fo u r versts of the bay
,

of S e vast o o e A si n g u lar co n trast here prese n ted

p .

i tsel f : on the right we beheld white an d brown cal

c ar e ou s hills sterile as i m agi n ation c an con ceive
, ,

whose base was di v ersied by broke n rocks an d ,

patches of n ake d clayey soil peepin g thro ugh

parched grass an d e n live n ed o n ly by a fe w st un ted
,

S hr ubs an d bloo m i n g wild owers O n th e le ft .

,

stretched a plain of m ost l u x u rian t pastu re ,

bo un ded by gen tle hills an d lofty m ou n tai n s ,

cover e d by w oods an d plan tatio n s garden s n u rse , ,

l
ries an d vi n eyards The road c ut thro ugh the
, .
,

base of the hills for m s as it were a lin e of de

, , ,

m ar c at i on betwee n the m ost l u x u rian t vegetatio n

an d al m ost total sterility We qu itte d this delight
.

fu valley an d soo n cam e i n sight of a n e bay of

,

the Black Sea an d havi n g asce n ded a hill Sevas

, ,

topole with its celebrated port greeted our view

, , .

Fi n din g a good i n n by the ban k of the bay kept ,

by a Greek we here took u p our lodgi ng i n stead

, ,

of cross i n g i m m ed i ately to that to wn as we had ,

T 3
27 8 TH E CAVE R N S or I N KE R M A N .

i n te n ded A fter we had m ade som e arran gem e n ts

.
,

we set off i n a fo ur oared b oat to exam in e the-

,

well k n ow n cavern s of I n kerm an A s we glided

- .

l
alon g the bay of A c htiar we r e m arked vari ou s ,

i n lets or ports up on which were si t u ated n u

, ,

m e r ous s m all edi c es as the bakeho u s e the b i s

, ,

cu it storeho u se an d other establish m e n ts con n ected

,

w ith the n avy of Se vast op o e O n e of the m w as .

especially poi n ted out to us wi th garde n s arou n d ,

l
it where a pro m e n ad e of the i n habitan ts of that
,

town takes plac e every S u n day d uri n g s um m er .

The R u ssian s n ot co n te n t w i th the an n ih ilatio n

,

l
of a n cie n t Khers o n have also destroy ed m an y of
,

the cavern s i n this n eighbo urhood for the sa r e of ,

t he st ones We saw t h e re m ai n s of a n e grotto at

.

a distan c e ; but perhaps ere this ti m e they have , ,

totally disap peared ; an d if Se v ast op o e co nti n u e s ,

l
to i n crease n otwithstan di n g the orders of the
,

E m peror to the co n trary it is probabl e that I n ker ,

m an will soo n bec om e a m ass of r ui n s So m e of .

i t s caver n s are co n verted i n to p owde r m agazi n es -

,

s o m e i n to stab e s an d cow -h ou ses an d others are ,

l
lled with carts an d har n ess for oxe n wh i le a ,

n um ber are tted u as hab i tat i o n s by the Tart ar s

p .

I n deed m an y are already i n ru i n s an d others i n a

, ,

s tate of decay ; an d n ot a fe w threate n t o fall i n ,

th eir pillars havi n g bee n broke n down a s o r t he ,

sa k e
f e st on es Al m os t all of the m have bee n
o t h .

u sed at so m e period as dwelli n gs as was shown

, , ,

by their roofs blacke n ed by the s m o ke of for m er

,
 l
THE CA V E R N S OF I N K E RM A N . 279

blaz ing hear th s Taken as a whole the cavern s

.
,

on the Se vast o o e side of the bay n ow exh ibit

p ,

a labyri n th of irreg ularity an d disorder The s m all .

chapel represen ted by Pallas however rem ains , ,

n early i n the state i n wh i ch he descr i bed it ; n o

i m piou s han d havi n g as yet dared to violate its

, ,

san ctity While walki n g abo u t we re m arked that

.
,

the perpe n d i c ular rock i n m an y places was as i t

, , ,

were daubed ove r with Greek an d H ebrew cha

,

l
r ac t e r s A very distin ct an d n early squ are speci
.

m e n of great size I co m pared w i th the tables

, ,

of the decalog u e .

We crossed to the oppo si te m oun tai n by a s m all ,

bridge u po n the Bij uk Uzen which is be i eved to

-
,
.

h ave bee n co n str u cted i n r e m ote ti m es This .

m o un tai n is overtopped by an old castle an d i s so ,

l
ll l
lled w i th open grottos arran ged as it were i n , , ,

stories on e above the other that it has been c om ,

pared to an i m m en se bee hive The rock whose - .

,

base i s m in ed by great cavern s ri ses p er p e n di c u

!

ar an d appears s uspe n ded an d ready to fal T w o

y , .

l
grottos whic h have corr espon di n g stairs form the
, ,

e n tran ce to a s m al chapel of whic h Pallas has ,

also give n a vi gn ette Through a ser ies of cavern s

.

an d n ar r ow passage s w e asc e n de d t o the top o f the

h i e nj oyed a beau tiful V i ew of the K r i m e a an d

, ,

exam i n ed the an c i en t castle of I n kerm an the ,

thick walls an d towers of which are held together

by a kin d of m arly cem e n t .

I nkerm an m ean s the town of cavern s an d fe w ,

T 4
2 80 TH E CA VE R N S or I N KE R M AN .

l
appellati on s are so appropriate Pallas expre ssed .

his u n certai n ty whether this place serv ed as a stro n g

hold at the epoch of the K he r S On i t e Greeks an d ,

ought to be regarded wi th F or m a e on i as the ,

Ct e n os of the a n cie n ts or wheth er the Ge n oese ,

we re its foun der s which he tho u ght m ore probable

,
.

He believed that the cav er n s belon ged to a m ore

re m ote p eriod an d were the work of m on ks u n der
, ,

the e m perors of the m i ddle age or of m odern ti m es , .

As it i s related by the Byzan ti n e h i storian s that ,

the Khe r s On i t e s were of the sect of Arian s an d ,

that this sect so n u m ero u s i n the E ast at le n gth

, ,

e n d ured m an y persec u ti o n s i n the bas e m pire ,

he tho ught it very probable that a great n u m ber of ,

m o n ks an d of their pro s elytes retired to a n cie n t

, ,

Khers on ; where n ot havi n g bee n able to n d an

,

asyl u m they d ug these c av ern s an d b uilt chapels i n

, ,

the calcareo u s rock i n m an y parts of the T aur i da ;

an d that they there co n ti n u ed the exercises of their

religio u s life perhaps with th e hope of co n verti n g

,

l
the savage i n hab itan ts of the co u n try The fac t .

that si m ilar cavern s are fo u n d i n vario u s parts of

the K r i m e a as n ear the village of Karan i ; n ear
, ,

Balakl ava i n the d istrict of K ar ak oba ; n ear M an

koop ; at the Village of Sc hu i i at Ti p e Kerme n

l
-

an d K i s-Kerm an ; at t h e v illage of S c hu r ii ; n ear

T c hufut K al e &c see m s to gi ve stre n gth to this

l
.
,

acco un t Dr Clarke adopted the O pi n ion of Pallas

. . .

The R u ssian historian Mr St c hk at of who is fo , .
f

S ovar Ge ogr ap hit c h e s k n R oss i i s kah o Gos u dar s t va .

 TH E CA V E R N S OF IN KE R M AN 28 1

l
.

lo w ed by Mr . says decidedly that I n ,

ker m an was the an cie n t Doros b u ilt by De op h an tu s ,

on e of the ge n erals of Mithridates r an d the Ct e n os

J
,

of the Greeks accordi n g to Strab o an d F or m a e on i

,
.

It is also said that the K hosar s took i t i n 67 9

, ,

from the Goths who r e took it towards the e n d of

,
-

the eighth ce n tu ry but agai n lost it ; that fro m , ,

the year 1 2 04 it had i ts ow n pri n ces am on g who m

, ,

m ay be recko n ed Co n stan t i n e the last e m peror of ,

the E ast be fore his elevatio n to the thro n e ; an d

,

that the T urks captu r ed i t i n 1 4 95 an d placed a ,

garriso n there but as it had lost i n n itely i n its

, ,

i m portan ce they aban do n ed it to the Tartars

, .

Castel n au says that history has gi ven hi m n o i n '

for m ation abo u t I n ker m an whose n am e as well , ,

as that of all the other town s i n the K r i m e a has ,

bee n ofte n chan ged He co nj ectu res that i t has .

s uffered the fate of a n c i e n t Khe r s On spoken of ,

hereafter ; an d says that i t s forticatio n s bear m arks

of t he sa m e ki n d of co n stru ctio n as w as e m ployed

by the Ge n oese for their fortresses Wi t h re .

spect to the caver n s he q u estio n s wheth er they ,

served as a retre at to the persec uted ; whether they

wer e excavated by the Khe r s n i t e s for the u se of

l
,

their troops ; or whether piou s person s who had

ll
re n o un ced t he world had r etired to the m i n order , ,

D i c ti o ir G graphi q e Hist ori q

nna e d E m pi e d e
o u - ue , e

r

R uss ei ; l H i t ir d T rid I tr d ti p 20
a so s o e e a au e, n o uc on , . .

1 Dr Cl rk lik wi
. a e d p t d th m op i i o wit h re p
e se a t o e e sa e n n s ec

t o t h e f r tr
o of I k rm
e ss T p 492
n e an . r a ve s , . .
 282 TH E CA V E R N S OF IN KE R M A N .

l
by pri vati on to lead better live s H e adds that it
,
.
,

m ust n ot be co n cl uded that they were i n habited by

Christian s alon e becau se chapels are fou n d am on g
,

the grottos ; an d he does n ot believe that z m

r in cip e de r e ig i on ever excavated these su bt e r
p

l
r an e an cham bers an d still less that i t was able to
, ,

have peopled the m ; an d he well r e m ar k s t hat , ,

they are so n u m ero u s abo ut I n kerm an that an ,

arm y could be lodged i n the m O n e of his ow n .

fri en ds ho w ever a s avam r e s ect a b e with

, , p ,

W hose n a m e we are n ot m ade acqu ai n ted says ,

dec i dedly that these cavern s appeared t o him t o

,

have served as a retreat to a great n u m ber of

Christi an s d uri n g differe n t persec uti on s ; t hat St
, .

Cle m en t the thir d Pope was there exiled an d

, , ,

after w ards St Marti n a relati on of Dom i t ian s
.
, ,

an d other perso n s of hi s co u rt ; that i t was aft e r ,

Cors i ca the Siberia of the Ro m an s ; an d that

,

those who died were i n terred i n the cells wh i c h

they h ad for m ed at their arrival .

I th i n k i t probable that t he an c i e n t i n hab itan ts of

the K r i m e a fo un d s ubterran ean abodes agreeable ,

d uri n g the heat of the s um m er an d also fo un d it ,

easi er to en large n at ural caver n s or eve n to excavate ,

l
I t is sa id th t h
a um an bon e s ha ve be e n fou n d in t h e c av e r ns

of t h e K r i m ean m oun t a i ns ; he nc e s om e ha ve be e ni li d t o
nc ne

thi k th t they w ere e x c a at

n a v e d as plac es fo int e r rri g t h d d
n e ea .

Thi s m se e
o ry g s s ve va ue a c o j e c t ure
n s a n ot t o re q ir u e

r f t tio Vi d Des ip ti o
e u a n. e cr n P hy s i que de a Ta ur i de, (1 P ar i s ,
1 8 02 .
 I NS A L UBR I T Y or TH E AIR. Q8 8

cham bers i n the soft calcareo u s rock than to c ut ,

the sto n es an d the n ce to b uild ho u ses H e n ce c o

,
.
,

l
lon i es or town s of cavern s if I m ay so speak m ay
, , ,

have bee n gradu ally form ed O r perhaps i n war s .

, ,

which were waged between the s ubj ect s of the K in g

of the Bosphor u s properly so called an d the Tau ri
, ,

dan s or K he r son it e s the so d iers hav i n g been e n

, ,

cam ped i n the vi c in ity of caver n o u s m o un tain s be ,

took the m selves to the ir protection when the weather

l
was very warm or i n cle m e n t ; an d havin g th u s fo un d
,

their util i ty excavated n um ero u s cells on p u rpose

, .

The i n sal ubri ty of the air of the valley of I n

kerm an i s proverb i al i n the Kr i m e a ; hen ce it i s
d ifc u t to con ceive how a great n um ber of m on ks

l
sho uld have resided here Accordin g to Pallas .
,

those w h o are se n t hither for the p urpose of m aki n g

hay or to herd cattle can n ot avoid the c on
, ,

t agi on of an i n term itte n t fever ; an d he asks i f ,

perso n s w ho com e to thi s place are taken i i n

con seq u en ce of havi ng breathed the m orn in g or
the even i ng ai r what m u st those have experi e n ced
,

l
who were con ti n ually exposed to t he m align i ty of
its i n u e n ce whe n the w in d wh i c h blew from the
,

l
bay occas i o n ed disease s eve n at A c ht i ar Bu t i t

l
mi ght be replied that the n at i ves m ay have lost
,

t h ei r s u sceptibility to co n tagi o n Pa l as thi n k s .

that the o n ly evi den t n at ural cau se of these fe

vers is to be attri b uted to the exha ati on s of c on
s i d er ab e m ar shes which are ofte n i n un dated by
,

the sea an d wh i ch surroun d the e m b ou chure of

,
2 8 41 S A L T PE T R E M A N U FAC T O R Y .

the stream B ij uk Uze n at the e n d of the g ulph

,
-
, .

These m arshes hav e bee n called the ce m etery of the

R u ssian ar m y si n ce the co n q u est of the Kr i m e a ;
,

bu t the gover n m e n t n ow takes care to ca n to n the

troops at som e dista n ce fro m the m .

Pallas lon g ago spoke of the char m i n g valley

, ,

of I n kerm an covered with verd u re an d with
, ,

great tr uth but W he n Dr Clarke calls it per .

haps the m ost beauti ful valley i n E u rope I ,

m u st thi n k that he greatly over rated it - .

It w as re m arked by Pallas t hat the eart h i n t he ,

n eighbo urhood of I n kerm an was fu ll of saltpetre

a n d i n deed
,
i n n e weather whe n it is dried by
, ,

the su n this salt is very visible by its effloresce n ce

, ,

an d very se n sible to the taste A fe w years ago .

,

the crow n took advan tage of this prod u cti on an d ,

established here a m anu factory of saltpetre The .

eart h i s tran sported to it fro m a very s hort distan ce ,

an d thrown i n to i m m e n se woode n t u bs ; water is

the n po ured upon i t u n til a stro n g bri n e or satu ,

rated sol u tion is obtain ed which i s evaporated

, , ,

p u ried an d crystallised A c on s i derable qu an

, .

tity of th i s salt i s an nu ally m ade at this m an ufac

tory .

Abo ut a q uarter of a verst from the n i tre fabric -

,

we re m arke d an e n or m o u s i n s ulated m ass of li m e

ston e of a lam i n ate d str uctu re which bei n g som e
, , ,

thi n g like a hou se has a si n g ular appearan ce i n the

,

plai n .

Fr om the for ticati on s of I nkerm an we beheld ,

 LO C U S TS . 9 85

a crowd of Tartars probably Q OO arm ed with

, ,

bran ches of trees tied together an d with cl ubs who ,

were occ upied i n the destru ctio n of the loc u sts ,

by beatin g the m agai n st the gro un d Altho ugh we .

ofte n m e t with loc u sts i n the K r i m e a an d d uri n g

, ,

ou r j o u r n ey i n the Ca u cas u s an d Georgia we ,

n e v er saw the m i n s w ar m s like clo u ds passi n g be

,

fore the s u n an d d arke ni n g the ai r as t hey have

, ,

l
frequ e n tly bee n descr ibed O n the co n trary they
.
,

seldom rose a bov e two or three feet fro m the

gro un d ; but whe n we rode am on g the m they ,

spr un g aro u n d u s i n m yriads At differe n t periods .

they have desolated the K r im e a ike a plag u e ;

l

elds vi n eyards garde n s pastu res every thi n g
, , , ,

has bee n lai d waste an d al m ost every gree n leaf

,

has been con s u m ed For three years be fore ou r

.

l
arri v al these i n sects had ravaged di ffere n t parts of
the pe n i n s u la an d had baff e d all the m eas u res of
,

t he go v er n m en t for their destr u ctio n Di ffere n t .

acrid co m positio n s especially qu ickli m e had bee n

, ,

spread over the soi i n those places w here they

chiey see m ed to be gen erated bu t i n the follow ,

i n g s u m m ers they appeared i n as great n u m bers as

be fore This has g ive n ri se to the idea that they
.
,

deposit t heir eggs deep i n the earth an d that they ,

are th us preserved fro m the e ffects of cold an d ,

the e fforts m ade t o destroy the m as they appear ,

a ai n w i t h the ge n ial heat of s u m m er The gove r n or

g .

of t h e K r i m e a had give n orders for the Tartar s

to asse m ble i n bod i es an d to attack them while

,
 286
0 A R R I VA L AT S E V AS T O PO L E .

yo un g i n the m an n er above described on those

, ,

spots which seem ed m ost prolic ; but this m e a- e

s u re had n o better s u ccess The wi n te r of 1 8 9 2 3

.
-

proved extre m ely s evere i n the K r i m e a an d i t ,

was hoped that the cold wo uld reach an d destroy

their eggs but I have n ot heard of the res u lt
, .

Fro m what Pallas says on th i s s u bj ect however , ,

the hopes of the i n habitan ts were n ot fo un ded

l
u pon experie n ce for the rigoro u s wi n ters of 1 7 99
an d 1 8 00 i n place of di m i n ishi n g this destru ctive

sco u rge appeared on the con trary to ha ve been

, , ,

favo u rable to i t s exte n sio n .

We crossed a m agn icen t bay to Se vast op o e ,

w h i c h was fo un ded i n the year 1 7 8 6 This town .

i s often called A c hti r a fter the n am e of a Tartar

,

village which stood on the n orth side of the bay at ,

the di stan ce of three versts fro m I n kerm an W e .

delivered several letters of i n trod u cti o n to the

adm i rals ge n erals &c who were stati on ed there
, , . .

I n reply to our e n qu i ry with respec t to the o bj ects

deservi n g atten tion bes i des the port an d the docks
, ,

a R u ssian of high ran k e m phat i cally sai d That ,

al m ost every th in g worthy of observatio n w as n ow

an n ihilated ; the devastation havin g bee n n early

ll
com pleted Wi th in the last fe w years H e likewise
.

i n for m ed u s that the E m peror on hi s vi sit here i n

,

the year 1 8 1 8 expressed deep regret at the de

,

stru ctio n whic h had been m ade an d gave s t ri ct ,

orders for the preservati o n of a the r e m n an ts of .

a n t i quity then v i s i ble

; but th i s i m pe r i a m an date
 A N E CD O T E .
AD M I R A L BA I L L I E . 28 7

cam e l ike a reprieve to a m an who had already

s uffered the se n te n ce of the law It shows an .

a m iable disposition however ; bu t the an tiqu arian

a n d the h i storian will equ ally regret that His Ma

j esty should have reign ed eightee n years before he ,

tho ught of the fate of an c i e n t Khers on an d i ts

n e i ghbo urhood which i s s o feel i n gly an d so j u stly
,

depicted by Clarke .

l
Ad m iral rece i ved u s poli tely an d ap ,

poi n ted an ofcer to acco m pan y u s to the port ,

docks , H e said he was sorry he co uld n ot

i n vite u s to di n n er becau se he w as e n gaged at
,

Gen era s rather an u n fort u n ate c om m u
,

n i c at i on,but which led to a n other i ll u strati o n

of th e R u ssian character We n ext we n t to the .

hou se of the ge n eral to who m the Ad m iral had

all uded ; an d while speaki n g to the servan t the
, ,

doors bein g open w e re m arked a table set ou t i n

,

l
a han dso m e hall for a large par ty The servan t .

l
con du cted u s to the Ge n eral who was walki ng i n ,

an adj oi n i n g garde n He was ve r y polite said h e

.
,

sho u ld be very happy to serve u s an d was ex ,

t r e m e y sorry that he was g oing t o di n e a t a fri en d s

,

or he wou d have i n vi t ed us t o d in ne r .

We n ext called u pon Ad m i ral Bai llie a n ati ve ,

of L iverp ool who had bee n n early for ty years i n

,

the R u ssian s ervi ce We fo un d hi m a plain open

.
,

m an who had m an y of t h e character i sti cs of the

,

seafarin g profess i on He w as i n a very bad .

s t ate of health but our prese n ce see m e d to an i

,
988 RO G UE R Y .

m ate hi m rem arked th a

. He t there wa s a great
differe n ce bet w ee n the state of the K r i m e a whe n he
rst k n ew it an d its prese n t state ; an d an o ffi cer

l
aid that it was a d v s t t d a s a m ix
s e a a e
p y ,

l
tu re of E n glish an d Fre n ch which was v ery par
don able as we spoke both of those lan g uage s at
,

the ti m e It was also observed that tho ugh n ature

. ,

had give n s u ch a n e port as that o f S e vast op o e

to the Kr i m e a yet it was p u re y a n aval port ; an d
,

l
whe n we e n q uired why there was n o co m m erce at
this town we were an swered by a ge n tle m an i n
, , ,

l
these fe w bu t sig n i fi can t words B ec a use t he
R ussi an s ne ve r d o any t hi ng r ig ht Mr H eber . .
,

'

howe v er m e n tio n s i n C ar k e s Trav els that the

, ,

reason assign ed for this circ u m stan ce was the e m

be z z e m e n t of the p ublic stores which were sold to ,

ll
the m erchan ts by the govern m e n t o fcers al m os t ,

w itho ut sham e .

That the sal e of the p ublic stores sho u ld hav e

bee n excessive an d sham efully u n disgu ised i n the
, ,

days of Catheri n e II an d of Pau is n ot s u rprisi n g

.
, ,

an d especially at s u ch a distan ce as S e v ast o o e

p

l
,

where n early sec u re fro m the cogn isan ce of the

,

crown the o fcers had it i n th eir power to deceive

,

l
the govern m e n t by false reports an d to defrau d i t ,

to a great exte n t As t he m a ss of t he ofcers

.
,

with scarcely any e x cept io n s w ere equ a ly co n ,

cern ed i n these detestable tran saction s so all cam e ,

i n for a shar e of the spo i whic h assisted the m to

'

l iv e ; their reve n u e s be ing i n adeq u ate to en able

 RO G UE R Y . 9 89

l
them to s uppo rt their ran k i n li fe No on e co uld .

i nfor m agai n st an other ; an d whe n a discovery of

em bezzlem en t was m ade it was of n o utility To ,
.

p un ish a fe w i n di v id uals wo uld have bee n partial

an d u nj u st an d m ight have ca u sed a ge n era r e
,

v olt ; to p u n ish the whole was i m possibl e Nor .

co uld e v e n the com m o n sailors be j ustly chastised ,

whe n detection was m ade of their tran saction s ,

si n ce they were som eti m es the age n ts of their s upe

riors a n d whe n n ot so they o n ly p urs ued a lower
, ,

l
bran ch of the sam e syste m of i n iqu ity which pre

l l
vailed a m on g their c om m an ders Th e e m bezzle .

m e n t an d sale of t he p u blic stores i s still co n ti n u ed

i n all the ports of R u ssia I m yself h ave see n.

sail cloth called o d beca u se it had been m ade i n to

-
,

the for m of s ai s altho ugh t he sewi n g was o n ly per

form ed to be c u t out agai n blocks p u i e s ropes , , ,

an d other articles of ship s tackle whic h had n ever

been u sed on board m ercha n t s hips whose captai n s

, ,

c on fess ed that they had bou ght them fro m the .

l
R u ssian sailors at a v ery low price ; an d it is
,

n otorio u s that fe w ships leave Cro n stadt witho u t a

portion of the stores of his I m perial Majesty
eet The m e n che at i n retail but the ofcers
.
,

p urs u e the sam e syste m wholesale Nor wil this .

pilferi n g practice by lo n g u sage an d n ecessity

an established c u sto m be re m oved till a n e w ,

organ isation of the R u ssi an go v ern m e n t takes

place which will prov ide for the actu al s u bsiste n c e
,

of its o fcers i n an ho n o u rable m an n er Whe n their .

,

V OL . I . U
9 90 C O L L E CTIO N OF C ATS - B A Y or S E v AS T O P O L E

l
. .

l
pay fails they m u st either starve or c heat an d as

, ,

m ay eas ily be believed they ge n erally c h oose the

,

latter alte rn ative It appears the n that Pa u l w as

.
, ,

j usti able i n p uttin g an e n d to a c om m erc i al i n

t e r c our se w i th S e v as t op o e N o d o ubt he tho u ght
.

he had n o othe r r esou rce for the eradicati o n of a

villan ou s syste m ; an d Alexan de r m ay s uppose h e
h as n o oth e r g u a r an tee to preve n t i t s re n ewal .

l
But it m ay be q u esti o n ed h ow far the pla n h as

l
s u cceeded or whethe r n e w m ethod s have n ot bee n
,

d i scovered by the o fcers t o r epl ace the form er

ad va n tages .

We d in ed with a par ty at Ad m ira Bail i e s ; an d
w e r e m u c h a m u sed by a collectio n of E u ropea n ,

As i ati c an d African cats wh i ch this eccen tri c i n

, ,

d i vid u al had a sse m bled a ro un d h i m an d wh i ch ,

l
s ee m ed t o have u s u rp e d the places an d appellatio n s

o f ch ildre n .The real Mos cow an d the Neapoli ,

t an va rieties were the m ost n um ero u s an d of both

,

h ehad s o m e choice spec i m e n s .

l
The bay of S e vast op o e w ith i ts vari ous ports
, ,

i s on e of the n est h arbo u rs i n E u rope or i n deed ,

i n the wo rl d I t has bee n d escribed with su ch

.

m i n uten es s by Pallas Clarke an d Castel n au a s t o

, , ,

re n der a deta il a work of super e r ogatio n The .

chart of it co n tai n ed i n Clarke s Travels a s well
, ,

as the pape r which he dep osited i n ou r ad m i ralty ,

m u st prove of the gr ea test u tility i n the eve n t of it ,

e ver beco m i n g n ecessary for the Br i t i s h to m ake an

a ttack i n this
q u arter of the globe .
 FLEE T OF TH E B L A CK SE A , 9 91

Accord i n g to the author of the L i fe of Cathe

ll
r in e i n the yea r 1 7 93 the eet of th e Black ,

S ea co n sisted of eight ships of the li n e of fro m ,

s ixty s i x to seve n ty fo u r g un s
- an d twelve frigates
-
, ,

l l
O f fro m thi r ty six to forty g un s
- whic h were sta ,

t i on e d at S ev as t op o e an d H adj

l
ibey n ow O d es sa ; ,

an d of 900 c he be k s u n boats an d other s m all

g
-
, ,

vessels with oars at Ni k o ae f an d A dj i der n ow

-
, ,

O vi di op o e upo n th e im an of th e Dn st e r
,
By .

C ast e n au s acco u n t i n t he year 1 8 1 7 it co n sisted
, ,

of
12 S hi p of t h li
s e ne , c a rryi g n 91 8 g un s .

4 Frig at es 1 62
7 Brig a ti n ne s 5 4s
1 8 S m ll a l v e ss e s 91

1 2 25 gu ns.

Besides a otilla co m posed of forty gu n boats -

,

c arryi n g fty two ca n n o n s an d eighty falco n s

- In ,
.

l
the year 1 8 9 9 thi s eet acco r din g to the best auth o
, ,

r i ty was co m posed of fo u rtee n ships of the l i n e a n d

,

t e n frigates besides n u m ero u s s m all c raft as gun

, ,

boats ,

From our i n n Se v ast op o e appeared qu ite i n

,

am phitheatre on the s ou th si de of the port an d had ,

a very l i vely a ppear ance i n con sequ en ce of i t s ,

whi te wall s an d gau dy dom es risi n g am id gre en

l
trees an d the n oble sheet of water covered by n u
, ,

m e r ous vessels i n the fore gro u n d

,
.

Pa lla s h as give n a v ewi of Se vast op o e, but i t c an n ot be

p rai sed .
9 99 D E S C R I PTI O N OF

The streets of Se vast op o e are all w i d e an d r egu

lar an d i n tersect e ac h other at r ight an gles ; but
,

n o n e Of t he m are pav ed T h e h ou ses h aVe of late

.
l
S E V AS T O P O L E .

bee n i n creasi n g i n n u m ber an d are extre m ely good, ,

an d all i n the m oder n Italian style of a rchitect u re .

A p ublic garde n with differen t terrace s; risi n g over

,

each other which has bee n lately form ed u pon an

,

elevatio n I n the m iddle of the town has a m ost ,

"

pleasin g effe ct an d co m m an ds a g en eral vi e w o f

,

the n eighbo urhood Th e edice s whic h are chie y

.

d eservi n g of n otice are t w o ch u rches besides a ,

third i n the docks ; the ad m iralty ; the arse n al ;

the hosp ital ; th e m agazi n es ; the barracks of the

l
garrison ; an d the m arin e barracks As is evide n t .

by the state m en t of the pop ulation whe n we sub ,

;

tract the edices of the crown an d the hou se s of ,

the variou s n aval m il itary an d c1 v1 1 oi c e r s sta

, , ,

l
t i on e d here little else re m ai n s to form S e vast op o e
,

l
an d yet agreea bly to the lately p u blished statistical
,

m ap of t h e K r i m e a this town co n tai n s 1 7 5 0 ho u ses

.
,
'

I have fou n d f e w acco un ts of the pop u lation of

S e vast Op o e i n the works of travellers or ge ogr a

p h e r s; Pallas Cl a rke
, S t c h k at of V s v o oj
, sk i i , ,

an d Castel n a u a r e sile n t on this om t S t h k at ot

, p c .
,

i n deed i n for m s u s that besides the n ative i n h a

, ,

bi t an t s the Tartars a n d so m e Gree k Jews had

, , ,

settled m an y ye ars ago i n this town Mrs . .

Holdern ess i n 1 8 9 1 stated its pop u latio n at

, ,

or sou ls but the xed i n habitan ts did n ot

exceed 8 000 ; the re st co n s i sted of those e m ployed
 ll
P O P UL A TI ON OF SE V A ST O P O L E . 9 98

in the e et &c I n the vear 1 8 9 9 its ge n eral p o

, .
,

p a lation i n cl u di n g active an d retired ofcer s sol

, ,

diers an d sai o rs as we l as the b u rgesses was esti

, ,

m ated at sou ls : bu t I stro n gly s u spect that

l
this was extravagan t The civi l part of the i n habit
.

an ts di d n ot exceed 9000 ; of cou rse its pop a la

tion will be greatly dim in ished when ever the eet
p u ts to sea .

S e vast op o e as m ight be expected from its bei n g

,

the res i de n ce of so m an y n aval an d m il itary o fcers ,

i s well s u pplied with t h e n eces s ari e s an d the l u x u ri es

of li fe
, though at high pri ce s ; good water i s
n ot ab un dan t an d fu el i s d ear
, .
 C HA P . VII .

D E PA R T U R E F R O M S E V AS T O POL E S E R VI C E O F T H E T A R T A R S
.
-5 .

A N C I E N T C H E R S O N E S U S S T G E o R GE s M O N AS T E R Y

. . .

V A L E O F B A L A K L AV A C O L O NE L R E V O L I O T I B A L A K
. .
~

L AV A G R E E K S o L DI E R s C O N Q U E S T O F T H E K R I M E A
.
- . .

R U SS I A N A R M Y F O R T R E SS O F B A L A K L AVA 1 T s P O R T
. . .

M O UN T A I N R O A D S - T H E VA L L E Y O F B A I D A R T H E V I L
. .

L AGE O F B A I DA R THE P ASS O F M E E R DV E E N

. S O UT H .

C O AS T O F T H E K R I M E A K I I T C H U K -x or K I K E NI S
.

. .

A M U S E M E N T S S I M JE U S A L Y UPK A T A R T A R VI L L A G S
. . . E .

T AR TAR H O USE S S UB J E C I O N O T H E T A R T A R S
. T F .

YA L T A G R E E K M O N AS T E R Y NI K I T A I TS B O T AN C

l
. . . I

GA R D N E Y U R S UP
. A YU D A G H .K UT C H U K L A M - .
-

P A T S c H I S T Us
. A L US H T A . K UR U U ZE N K I JT C H U K .
- .

UZ NE A R R I VA L A T U S K UT
. T A R T A R WO R S H I T CH U . P.

B A N H AL E
- A PS O C H 6R I< K U T L AK . .

B E F O R E leavi n g Se vastOp o e we laid i n a stock of

tea, co ffe e s ugar , , &c for . ou r m ed itated trip ro un d
 DE P A R T UR E FR O M S E V AST O PO L E . 9 95

th e so uth coast of the pe n i n su la an d also a fe w ,

l
po u n ds of wax can dles wh i ch were o f great u se ,

i n di ffere n t places where n o ki n d of can dles were

,

to be fo u nd Tho ugh we cou ld have gon e i n the

.

l
carr i ages to Balakl ava yet t he weather bei n g n e
, , ,

we i n ni tely preferr ed ridi ng an d ou r t r an s a ,

t or eas i ly proc u red fro m the Tartar peasan ts the

, ,

requ i site n u m ber of horses for o u rselves servan ts , ,

an d u ggage I f the traveller be very fastidio u s

.
,

he Should bri n g a saddle with hi m T w o of ou r .

party after m u ch tro uble s u cceede d i n p u rchasin g

, ,

old saddles m a d e i n the E n glish s tyle bu t they ,

pai d a very extravagan t price for the m The r est .

of u s were co n te n t w i th the saddles u sed by the

Tartars w hich con sist of w oode n fram e s an d

,

leathern c u sh i o n s each q u ite disti n ct The fra m e

, .

be in g placed over a cloth on the hor se s back i s ,

then covered w ith the c u sh i o n an d the whole i s ,

sec u red by a broad gi rth .

T h e greatest servi ce ou r tran slator re n dered u s ,

was by precedi n g u s to the stati o n s an d prep arin g ,

a chan ge of horses A fter we ha d m ade two or

.

three st age s t he Tartars n ot o n ly served u s w ith

, .

pleas u re but with solic i tu de The cau se of thi s

, .

was easily explai n ed W e paid them reg ularly at

.
'

l
the rate of eight kope c ks p er verst for each h orse ,

agreeably to ou r r m an besides m aki n g the m ,

s m all pre s en ts The r eports of those Tart ar s w ho

.

h a d served u s bei n g t o ou r advan tage had a gr eat

, ,

effect upon those w ith whom we wer e tota

U 44
 9 96 SE R VI C E OF TH E T AR TAR S .

stran gers an d m ade the m perform their d uty w ith

,

willi n gn ess an d alacrity as far as we co u ld j u dge ,

by their co un te n an ces a n d by the u n u su al qu ick

,

n ess of their m o v e m e n ts It is n ot to be wo n der e d

.

at that n ot o n ly the R u ssian s bu t the Tartars of

, ,

the Kri m e a the K oz ak s i n Mou n t Cau casu s an d

, ,

the Georgian s shou ld Show n o great willin gn es s

,

to ser ve the ofcers of the ar m y or even m an y of ,

the n obles of the au tocratic do m in ion s The i r

, .

haughty overbeari ng co n du ct i s i n tolerable ; an d

, ,

what is worse they n either reward them for thei r

,

o wn n or their horses labo u r ; or they give the m
,

an
y s um w h i ch
,
they the m selves j u dge to be

e n o u gh D u ri n g ou r j o u r n ey the distan ce w as
.
,

always reckon ed by the ho ur s ride allowin g ve
versts p er ho u r for m oun tai n roads stoppages n ot
i n cl u ded The Tartars an d the tran slator ge n erally
.

arran ged the distan ces betwee n the m an d tho ugh ,

I believe the latter fav o ured the form er, an d m ost

, ,

probably recei v ed a pre m i u m for so d oi n g y e t we

, ,

liked the Tartars so m u ch that we wi n ked at ,

an
y little deceptio n b u t I always paid the m o n ey
,

i n to their ow n han ds so as to be s u re that it all

,

r eached the m .

The traveller who wishes to exam i n e the coast

of the K r i m e a with m i n u te n ess S ho uld provide

l
,

h i m sel f with the works of Strabo P allas Clarke , , ,

an d Holder n ess
; an d the great an d m ag n ice n t
m ap of this pe n i n s u la which was lately p ubl ishe d

at the Dep t de Car os at Petersb urgh T he .

 l
A N C I E NT CH E R S O N E S U S . 9 97

botan ist will add to these the Flora Tauro -Ca u ,

casica by Marschall a Bieberstei n

,
.

Soo n after leavi ng Se v ast op o e we arrived at the ,

q uaran t in e well sit uated on a s m all bay an d the n

,

m ade a d et our fro m the road to the Site of the an

cien t Ch e r son e su s whose form er gran de u r p ublic
, ,

edices te m ples aqu ed ucts walls an d towers had

, , , , ,

bee n the ad m iratio n of re m ote ages ; an d whose

m aj estic r u i n s had lled eve n the i g n ora n t an d
s uperstitiou s K r i m e an Tartars with s urprise an d

l
reveren ce A m o n g th e m was fo u n d n o sacrilegiou s
.

l
han d which dared to violate these re m ai n s of an
,

t i qu i t y Th e R u ssian s had n o s u ch feeli n gs an d

.

Dr Clarke with his u s u al e n th u s i asm very ex

.
, ,

c u sab e on s u ch an occasio n has drawn a fright ,

fu pict u re of the ge n eral havoc an d devastatio n

l l
which followe d their track Pallas has well .

l l
said that the c on stru ction of A c hti ar n ished the
,

lll
r ui n of th i s an cien t capital ; but Castel n au over
stepped the tru th whe n he asserted a fe w years , ,

ago , O n ne r ec onn oi t n i a t r ac e d es r ues n i e s ,

l

vest ig es d un seu e d g ce
f on a r e m u e e s m ur s us ue
q
dans e s en t r a i eve n at th e
es de a ter r e for
epoc h of ou r visit i n May 1 8 9 9 the r u i n s of a ,

v ery large edice re m a i n ed I m m en se thick walls .

,

at on e place pen etrated by a ow arch r ose to the ,

height of six or eight feet above the level of the

groun d an d were held together by the sam e ki n d
,

of m arly ce m e n t which we had re m arked at t h e

-

castle of I n kerm an an d besi des great qu an titi e s , ,

9 98 A N CI E N T C H E R SO NE S U S .

of sto n es lay scattered u po n the plai n Perhaps .

,

ere this n ot a ston e i n dicates where stood the

,
.

l l
an cie n t Khers on ; for altho ugh the E m peror h as
ordered all a n tiqu ities to be preserved what we ,

saw were really n ot wo r th preservi n g an d o n ly ,

te n ded to ll the m in d with m ore gloo m an d i n

dig n ation than a t a bu a r asa Th e m e m ory of
,
.

Khe r s on n ow ex i sts o n ly i n books Sevast op o e .

h as u s u rped i ts place ; an d i n i ts t u r n m ay b e , ,

s upplan ted by som e other c i ty O ur posterity a . ,

l
fe w h un dred ye ar s h e n c e m ay be occ up i ed i n
.
,

collecti n g an d d escrib i n g the col um n s the capitals , ,

an d th e arches an d i n decipher i n g the i n scriptio n s

,

on the sto n es an d m arble slabs of Khers o n a m on

g ,

th e r ui n s of Se v ast op o e .

l
Khers on has lon g bee n fam ed i n R u ssia on ,

acco un t of the baptis m of V ladim ir h avi n g taken

place w i thi n its w all s I am there for e the m ore
.
, ,

s urpri sed that the R u ssian govern m e n t or the ,

R u ss i an s them selves di d n ot feel a r e i gi ou s ve n er

,

ati on for the r ui n s of a c ity where thei r great

d uke was m a de a m e m ber of that faith which he
after wards i n tro du ced i n to h i s terri tori es an d wh i ch ,

they the m selves s till profess .

The coi n s of an cien t Khers on are r eprese n te d

l
by Pallas Castel n au &c to whose works the
, , .
,

an ti qu ari an i s re ferred .

Q uittin g the s i te of K h er s on ou r r oad lay ,

throug h a barre n di strict var i ed o n ly by a fe w

,

s cattered sto n es It for m ed par t of the H e r ac e oti c

.
 ll

ST . GE OR G E S M ON A STE R Y . 9 99

C he r son e su s, w hich was bo un ded by a li n e r un

n i n g fro m S e v st O o e
p or m ore probably f ro m , , ,

l
I n ker m an t o Balakl ava Upo n it historian s an d

.
,

a ntiq u arian s have exhau ste d a research Havi n g .

passed a far m hou se which rose cheerfully i n the

-
,

plai n we soo n reached the sea coast an d St

,
-
, .

George s m o n astery Pal a s has gi ve n a V i ew of .

this co n ve n t wh i c h he j ustly estee m ed i n terest

,

i n g both on acco un t of i ts s i tu at i o n a m o n g the

, ,

s u rro un di n g bold sce n ery a n d the m in eralogy of ,

the rocks i t i s als o an excelle n t spot for the r e

s earch e s of the botan i st Yet Castel n au th o ugh h e .
,

avows that the Si tu ati on of the m o n astery is pic

t u r e s qu e r e m arks that the view of the se a coast i s
,
-

the s a m e a s i n a hun dred places of the m o un tai n

l
ous part of the K r i m e a A s m all ch apel w ith .

ll
col um n s erected ab ou t e ight years ago an d som e
, ,

l
other n e w edices h ave a good deal altered the
,

appearan ce of St George s m on astery Sin ce Pallas s
.

plate an d Vi gn e tte were p ub i shed ; but Natu re is

still th e sam e sti l equ a ly gran d a n d m aj
'

, e st

H ere i s an other s m all chape besides the hou ses of ,

the m on ks who have a m ost e n viable residen ce

, .

l

St George s i s a Greek m on astery an d c an
.
,

a dm it thirteen m onks ; bu t at our vis i t i t w as , ,

i nhab i ted by ve sol itary i n divi du als Its s upe .

ri or Platon was b orn i n L i ttle R u ssia but i s n e

, , ,

c e ssar i
y d e c e n de d fro m Greek pare n ts H e .

treated u s w it h votdhi bread b utt er chee se wi n e , , , , ,

3 00 VA L E OF BA L AK L AV A .

&c . l u x u ries which w e little expected to have

,

fo un d i n this her m itage ,

Abo ve the co n ve n t an d on th e lofty brow of th e

,

hill is placed a very s m all chapel w i th George

, ,

an d the Drago n c u t i n sto n e u po n its li n tel an d ,

which is said by Pallas t o have bee n erected by a

Greek who died n ear this spot
,
.

It has bee n s upposed that so m ewhere n ear the

m o n astery of St George there was a fan e of the

.
,

d ae m on virgi n fa n um d ce m on i s vi r g ini s where

, ,

p erished the bloody sacrices of Dian a ; but the

exact Spot has n ot bee n yet determ i n ed an d it ,

see m s m adn ess to atte m pt it as there is n ot n ow ,

the s m allest vestige of a te m ple i n the v i cin ity of

this co n ve n t Besides it s ee m s un certain to which
.
,

l
of the heathe n goddesses th e d aem o n of Strabo m a
-

y
be re ferred Pallas was i n cli n ed to believe that
.

the pro m o n tory called Aj a Bun m was the Parthe -
,

l
n i u m of this a uthor an d that so m e r u i n s which he
,

fo un d there were those of the sai d te m p e O thers .

s uppose that it stood u pon the Cape of St George .

,

wh i ch they recko n the Parthe n i u m of Strabo O f .

th i s p r o m o n tory Dr Clarke has gi ven an exce l en t

.

V i ew .

From St George s m on astery ou r road turn ed
.

l
to the n orth east over a plai n w i th a ri dge of
-
, ,

m ou n tai n s on ou r rig ht an d then throu gh t h e ,

vale of Balakl ava Th i s vale for the m ost par t

.
, ,

I S s u rrou n ded by barre n h i lls an d bleak sce n ery .

Dr Clarke s descript i on i s ass ure d y o n ly appl i ca
.
 VA L E OF BA L AK L AVA .
C O L O NE L R E V OL I O TI . 30 1

ble to a part of it an d n ot to the whole So,

m u ch say s he has bee n said by travellers of the
, ,

fam o u s valley of Baidar that the v ale of Balakl ava , ,

which i s hardly s u rpassed by an y prospect i n th e

K r i m e a has hitherto escaped n otice
,
Yet the wild .
,

l
gi gan tic lan dscape which towards its sou thern ex ,

t r e m i ty s u rro u n ds the tow n ; its m o u n tai n s i t s ,

r u in s an d its h arbo u r the ho u ses covered by

,

v i n es an d owers an d overshadowed by the thick ,

foliag e of m u lberry an d wal n u t trees m ake it a ,

together e n cha n ti n g .

l
l
O ur l u ggage whic h had bee n despatched by a
,

l
S horter road u n der the care of ou r i n terpreter an d
,

the Tartars had arrived be fore u s an d ou r ap

, ,

l
proach had bee n a n n o u n ced At the barrier of B a .

ak a v a an u n der oi c e r m e t u s an d with Colo n el

,
-
, ,

R e v o i ot i s co m pli m en ts i n vited u s to di n n er , .

Three Greek soldiers arm ed with sabres an d

ll
fu si s who m o u n ted gu ard at this place presen ted
,
,
,

to u s qu ite a n o vel appearan ce by their Si n gular

u n i for m It con sisted of black hel m ets dark
.
,

gree n e m broidered j ackets an d red trowsers ex , ,

t r e m e y wide an d con n ed below the k n ees by high

,

boots T .

l
Colo n el R e v o i ot i gave u s an excellen t di n n er ,

an d ple n ty of wi n e Am on g oth er dishes m i n ced .

,

Clark e s Tra el p 5 03 v s, . .

e e Pa l as s t e th p l at e T h ir r ow se rs s e e m t o ha

1 S e t n . ve be e n
th e diffe re tly arra g e d
n n Th e s am e p lat e al s o c on t ai
n . ns a fe
m ale g ure M s H ol d e rn e ss s fr on t is p ie c e doe s n ot rr

. r . co e

s
p on d w t i h my r i
obs e va t on s .
 l
3 09 BA L AK L AV A .
GR E E K SOL DIE RS . ,

m eat rolled u p i n vi n e leaves as at T c hI I fut K al e ,
-
,

w as prese n ted whic h we fo u n d very good

,
.

The town of Balakl ava i s for m ed of a p r i n c ip a

n arro w wi n di n g street besides di f

,
fere n t lan es an d ,

hou ses scattered am on g the slopi n g rocks t he m ost ,

l
con spic u ou s of which is a n e w school u pon an e m i
n en c e n ear t h e barr i er i n which th e ch i ldre n are
,

taught m odern Greek an d I beli eve als o R u ssian

, , ,

an d Tartar .The tow n the port an d th e r ui n s of

, ,

the cast e of Balakl ava ar e well dep i cte d i n Pallas s
,

n i n th plate .

The pop ulation of Balaklava cann ot be very

great si n ce i t s ho u ses are o n ly s i xty i n n u m ber
, .

Accord in g to t he n earest esti m ate I co uld m ake

-

from the data affo r ded m e I s uppose i t co n tain s ,

.

abo ut 1 000 or 1 900 s o u ls m e n wo m en an d chil , , ,

d re n ; all A r n aou t Greeks or their desce n dan ts ,

.

Balakl ava was form erly occ up i ed by the Tart ars

but after their e m igrati o n whe n the K r i m e a was
, ,

seized by the R u ssian s it was gi ve n u p t o the ,

l
Greek regi m e n t which n ow garr i son s the place .

This r egi m e n t d i stin gu i shed itself i n the servi ce of

R uss i a agai n st the Tu rks i n the Archipelago I ts .

whole n u m b er am oun t s t o 45 0 m e n w ho are ,

l l
co m m an ded by Colon el R e vo i oti the ir cou n try ,

m an Balakl ava i s their head -qu arters but par t

of the co m m an do for m i n g a c or d on ar e scattered

, ,

alon g the south coast of the K r i m e a The sol di ers .

have ass u red y fo un d a del i c i ou s retreat an d pass ,

thei r li ves in great ease The ir who e d uty i s to

.
 C ONQ UE S T OF TH E K R I M E A .
R US S I N A AR M Y . 8 03

m ai n tai n i n tern al peace an d to gu ard a coast which

,

is n ever approached by an e n e m y an d were ,

an attack expected n o do u bt the Greeks wo u ld

,

be rei n forced i m m ediately or perhaps re m oved

,

fro m thei r statio n an d replaced by R u ssian troops

, .

At the sa m e ti me it m u st b e allowed that they ,

have hitherto m ai n tai n ed their delity to R u ssia ,

an d n ow have ca u se to S how gratitu de a n d to ,

ght for a char m in g coun try which a lo n g resi ,

de n ce has re n dered th ei r ow n Clarke was of .

opi n ion however that this ban d of Greeks wo u ld

, ,

have bee n ready to have j oi n ed an y E u ropean i n

vader or to have ed at his approach B ut that
, .

l
au thor i n stat in g that an y experien ced ge n eral
, ,

fro m the arm ies of E n glan d Fran ce or Germ an y

, , ,

m ight pledge his r ep u tatio n for the capt u re of th e

K r i m e a with a thou san d m e n n o do u bt spoke as
,

hyperbolical y as when he gravely i n for m ed u s that

,

the force of the R u ssian e m p ir e was a m ere p up

pet show
- or that it w as P un ch w i th all hi s fa ,

m ily ; or a herd of swi n e i n arm o u r who e n d u red ,

l
hard blows kicks an d ca n es with perfect patie n ce
, , , ,

bu t were i n capable of act i vity or e ffect Th i s a u thor .

oft e n delights u s wit h t h e lively extravagan cies both

of his pe n c i l an d his p e n Few person s c an regard

.

the represen tati on or as I wo u ld cal it the

, ,

cari catu re of a R u ssian s en tin el at hi s Post ,

whic h decorates the head of the t wen ty r st chap -

ter of his work withou t lau ghin g His accou n t of

,
.

the m etam orp hos i s of a R u ss i an peasan t in to a

3 04 C O N QUE S T or TH E K R I M E A . R USS I AN AR M Y .

chop falle n st upid brow beate n s ulle n clown

-
, ,
-
, ,

the m o m e n t he e n ters the ran ks of the arm y is ,

equ ally a m u si n g an d for m s a wo n derful con trast

,

to the state m e n t of Sir R Wilso n which I have .

,

already qu oted .

The wo n ders achieved by Suv r of i n Italy w ith , ,

m e n as Clarke was co n scio u s of were n ot

, ,

l
i n accord with his ow n state m en ts ; an d altho ug h ,

the qu alication s of that ge n eral pec uliarly tted

l l
hi m for the co m m an d of R u ssian troops the lear n ed ,

profes sor beyo n d all qu estio n attrib uted t oo m u c h

, ,

of his s u ccess to his i n d i vi d u a i ty i f I m ay so ,

speak T w o years after Clarke s Travels were p ub
.

i she d the ca m paig n of 1 8 1 9 an d especially the

, ,

battle of Borodi n o gave a tru e ill u stration of th e

,

com positi on Of t he e i te at least of th e R u ssian

, ,

arm y ; an d the gen eral resu lt of the war m ight ,

lead u s to believe that i n proportio n as the m il i

,

tary character an d e ffect of that arm y was u n der

rated by Dr Clarke i t had bee n prev i o u sly u n d u ly
.
,

exalted by Sir R Wi lso n . .

Whe n th e K r i m e a i s to be attacked eve n tho ugh ,

s u dden ly the forces of the i n v adi n g arm y ou ght

, ,

at least to equ al the whole troops i n the pe n i n s ula

, ,

w hich ge n erally am o un t to or m en ;
so that a dec i s ive blow m ight be str uck an d the ,

fortress an d li n es of P erek op i n stan tly seized .

B ut it is to be pres u m ed whe n this i s to b e don e

, , ,

Vide p ag e 1 39 1 40 .
 THE F O R T R E SS or B A L A K L AV A . 8 05

that a powerful ar m y will already hav e take n pos

s ess i o n of t he so u th of R u ssia a n d that t h e co n q u est
,

of the K r i m e a will o n ly b e an accessory part of

s o m e g r eat pla n B ut it is ti m e to retu r n to our

.

travels .

The fortress of Balakl ava with its n u m erou s ,

towers stan ds upo n an al m ost i n accessible r ock an d

, ,

is c dnj e c t ur e d by Pallas to have bee n b u ilt by the

Greeks an d repaired by the Ge n oese Its prese n t

, .

appearan ce however an d gen eral con sen t favo u r

, , ,

the opi n io n that it was altogether erected by the

Gen oese whe n they had the co m m an d of the coast
,

o f the K r i m e an pe n i n s u la The View of i t beco m es.

m ore an d m ore pict u resqu e an d s u bli m e by the ,

frequ e n t down fall of so m e of its battle m e n ts an d

w alls A light ho u se which was erected am on g its
.
-
,

ll
r u i n s is S hari n g the sam e fat e
, as well as an other ,

u po n the opposite Side of the e n tran ce of the bay .

N u m ero u s rare plan ts have taken root an d ou ris h

h ere ; an d I was a good deal s u rprised to n d
the Tau r ic A sphode on the very top of the ,

r ock ; a plan t wh i ch I had previo u sly re m arked as

d ecoratin g the plai n n ear Sym p h er op o e .

l

Dr Clarke s work co n tai n s an excelle n t Vie w of
.

th i s an cie n t fortress
The port of Balakl ava i s co m pletely Sheltered by
high craggy hills ; an d its m o u th bei n g n arrow ,

eve n whe n the billows rol m ou n tai n high at its -

e n tran ce its waters are s m ooth as those of an i n lan d

,

lake Its len gth i s n ot mu ch above a m ile an d i ts

.
,

V OL I . . x
8 06 TH E POR T OF B A L AK L AVA .

breadth abou t 9 00 fatho m s while its depth eve n , ,

n ear the shore varies from ftee n to eigh tee n

, ,

an d twe n ty fatho m s The e n tran ce I S S O con n ed

.
,

that it wou ld be difcu lt for two vessels to e n ter

this port at a ti m e .

Notwithstan din g so m e dan gero u s rocks n ear the

m o uth of th e port of Balakl ava it O fte n served ,

l
as a place of refuge to vessels whic h were driven
u po n the coast an d co u ld n ot do u ble Cap e Fan ari
,
.

Bu t Pallas with his u s u al cau ti o n i n for m s u s that

, , ,

a s it was i m possible to preve n t s m u ggli n g an d the ,

co n sequ e n t dan gers of the p agu e m erchan t vessels

.
,

were forb i dde n to e n ter it : a m easu re which

cau sed m an y Shipwrecks an d which reects the ,

disgrace of barbaro u s i n h u m an ity u p on those who

ordered or who per m itted it But this is n ot all ,
, .

for accordi n g to Clarke

, I f an y ill fated m ari n er
,
-
,

drive n by te m pests so ught a shelter i n the port

,

of Balaclava d u ri n g the reign of Paul h e was

, ,

speedily driv e n out agai n or s un k by an e n e m y , ,

a s i n hospitable as the wi n d or the waves The .

i n habitan ts had s m all pieces of artillery statio n ed

on the heights with th e m ost positive orders
, ,

fro m that i n san e tyran t to re at an y vessel which

,

shou ld pres u m e to take refuge there I f, how .

ever I am properly i n form ed the said pieces of

, ,

artillery were placed on p u rpose to m ake sign als

an d tho u gh I k n ow e n o u gh of Pa u l s m a d actio n s
, ,

Cl ark e s Tra els p

v , . 5 04 .
 M O UN T A I N RO AD S .
VAL L E Y OF BA I DA R . 3 0?

yet I c an scarcely credit the above report T he .

light ho u ses on each S i de of the harbo ur were for

-

m erly i n us e an d I can n ot co m prehe n d the cau se

o f t heir bei n g allo w ed to fall i n to r u i n s as the ,

heights aro un d Balakl ava ofte n serve as a g u ide to

'

v essels which sail fro m Co n sta n ti n ople Tho ugh .

n o co m m erce is carried on here yet vessels are ,

l
n ow allo w ed to take re fuge i n the harbo u r whe n ,

ll
d ri v e n upo n the shores by stress of weather .

Pallas has carefully i n dicated the di ffere n t roads

a cross th e m o u n tai n s an d thro u gh the valleys fro m
, ,

Balakl ava to FOros to M u c h a at k a to Si m m us to

, , ,

A yI k a to Gaspra to A r n I I tk a an d to Yalta so
, , , ,

a s to be u se fu l to the stra n ger We took our .

c o u rse for M uc ha at k a asce n ded thro u gh a plea

,

s an t dell a n d rode thro u gh woods

, O aks ashes .
, ,

cherry trees m o un tai n ashes an d hazels abo u n ded

-
,
-
, ,

on the sides a n d s u m m its of the ri fted rocks The .

r oad was so m eti m es open an d so m eti m es led ,

t hro u g h i m m e n se ave n u es o v ershadowed by the ,

r ich foliage of the trees an d every where so good ,

a s to ad m it of gallopi n g Havi n g gai n ed the ,

highest hill i n ou r way the bea u tiful an d s m ili n g

,

valley of V ar m I tk a presen ted itself an d form ed , ,

a s i t were the co m m e n ce m en t of the celebrated

,

v alley of Ba i dar fro m whic h it is separated by a

,

ridge of rocks .

The valley of Baidar has bee n described u n der

t h e titles of the T a ur i c A r c a d i a an d the Cr i m ean

X 2
8 08 TH E VAL LE Y OF BA I DA R .

T emp e by L ady Crave n an d Mrs G u thri e Pallas . .

,

however tho ught it had bee n extravagan tly praised

,

by all travellers an d says it excites m u ch i n terest

,

i n the i n divid u al who has n ot travelled i n Siberia .

He also avows that i t had n ot prod u ced the like

,

e ffect upo n hi m becau se he had already see n m ore

,

charm i n g lan dscapes an d m ore i m posi n g prospects

,
.

He has likewise re m arke d that the Cau cas u s ,

co n tai n s a thou san d m ore pict u resq u e an d m ore

l
beauti ful valleys Dr Clarke who is an xio u s to
. .
,

dis pel the i ll u sion of others j oi n s i n the pro

,
p

fe ssor s opi n io n ; an d says that the valley of ,

Baidar will n ot ad m it of a co m parison with m an y of

the beau ti fu l sce n es i n Sw i tz e r an d n or eve n w ith
'

those i n Norway an d Sweden Castel n au who .

,

l
e n ters i n to a lo n g disqu isitio n as to the rese m
blan ce an d differe n ce bet w een this vale an d the
valleys of Switzerlan d co n cl u des that t he form er
, ,

still rem ai n s s u perior to all that c an be sai d of

it. For m yse t hou gh I have vi site d the Can .

cas u s an d the fa iry scen ery of the well-k n own

,

T r osac h s i n Scotlan d I sti ll regar d the valley of

, ,

Baidar as u n com m on ly ne an d worthy of most ,

o f the e u logi u m s bestowed u po n it .

Th i s charm i n g vale i s abo ut t e n m i les i n len gth

l
,

an d varies fro m ve to six i n breadth an d its d i

rection is fro m s o uth east to n orth east It is

- - .

boun ded on the so u th by the woody m oun tai n s

, ,

which r un alon g the sea Shore ; on the east by the

-
,

rap id dec ivi ty of the Jala of Usun dshi ; on t h e

 l
TH E V I L L AG E OF BA I DA R . 8 09

n orth by a ridge of rocks which separate it fro m

, ,

the valley i n which the stream called Us e n bash

takes its rise an d by the m o un tai n s of K ok u os
,

a n d of Ai T h odor -covered with forests ; an d

, ,

lastly on the west by the rocks of V ar n tk a

, , .

O ver this valley are scat tered woods groves gar , ,

de n s vi n eyards c ultivated elds an d past ures

, , , ,

which are ab un dan tly watered by n u m ero u s li m pid

rivu lets an d strea m s So rich is th e foliage that
.
,

l

ran ges of the Tartars ho u ses alo n g the sides of ,

the hills an d scattered thro u gho ut the plai n are

, ,

n early co n cealed fro m t h e View or o n ly show the i r ,

r ustic tops am ids t m asses of verd u re The n e .

oaks an d e n orm ou s w a n ut t r e e s are pecu l i arly f

re m arkable to the visitor who for th e rst ti m e , , ,

travels i n this part of the pe n i n su la Pallas all u des .

to a tree of th e latter ki n d w hich an n u ally pro ,

d u c e d from eighty to a h u n dred tho u s an d n uts .

We passed the n ight of the 1 6th of May i n the

village of Baidar fro m which the vale received
,

its appellatio n d i stan t abo u t ve versts fro m the

,

sea coast Som e of the ho u ses are of t w o stories

- . .

We lodged i n the u pper room of on e of these ,

which was s urro un ded by a woode n balco n y an d , ,

for the rst ti m e Slept on t he d ivan s of the Tartar

,

peasa nts Thou gh the oor an d the door i n a

.
,

great degree acted as ve n tilators yet it was u n

, ,

co m fortably warm i n the n ight h u ddled together , ,

as w e were on the oor ; n early i n the m an

,

n e r I have elsewhere described the R u ss i a n s to

x 3
810 TH E P A SS OF M E E R DV E E N .

be wh en a crowd are asse m bled at th e

, fete of a

Havi n g dran k so m e of the excellen t m ilk of -

Tartar cows fe d i n the l u x u ria n t valley an d h av ,

i n g break fasted at an early h o u r on the m or n i n g ,

of the 1 7 th of May we took ou r departu re ,

We .

e nj oyed a charm i n g ride an d arrived at t he pas s ,

of M e e r dv e e n on the bri n k of a precipice whic h

'

, ,

we at rst tho ught it i m p ossible to d esce n d ; a n d

i n deed at on e period agreeably to the report of
, ,

trav ellers it w as extre m ely di fc ult

, Two high .
,

bold craggy m o un tai n s for m as it were th e wall s

, , ,

of this alpi n e pass with an i m m e n se detached

,

m ass of rock lyi n g betwee n the m an d overhan g ,

i ng the precipice belo w O n this r ock we reposed .

hal f an ho ur e nj oyi n g on e of t h e m ost i m pressive

,

sce n es of n atu re T .

The word M ee r dveen i n Tartar sign ies stair ; , ,

a term which was m ore applicable whe n it w as

n early all for m ed ou t of the solid rock than at ,

prese n t ; for tho ugh part of it still an swers to this

,

descriptio n yet other parts are cov ered with earth

, .

The whole was repaired i n the yea r 1 8 1 8 on ac ,

l

co un t of the E m peror Alexan der s visit Not w i t h .

stan di n g that i t s ee m ed alar m i n g at rst yet we de ,

i
n um

ox
f

y
l
Charac t e r of t h e R ussia s p
A m o g o th e r pl a t s o this
uc

r
c e d us
n

id um

b ou r h ood , t h e be au t

, an d

r st c a m
n

if l J ip r
e un
u

d r i
un

e
n

G e ran ium robe rtian u m

n , .

l
vi

m ass of

e u s ox yp h i

ou r v e w .
.

r oc k ,

an d ,

os a n d t h e
I fo
in t he
un d G era
igh
ne

Jun ip e r us
 KRI MEA 811

TH E SOUTH CO A ST OF THE

sce n ded it with perfect ease on foot O u r horses .

-

follo w ed u s an d tho ugh d u ri n g the n u m ero u s

, ,

wi n di n gs fro m right t o left an d vi ce ve r sd they , ,

had great di fc ulty i n preservin g their eq uilibri u m ,

l
yet n ot on e of the m m ade a false step ; an d their

l
cau tio us m ode of proceedi n g w as a great sou rce of
a m u se m e n t to u sn
We had n ow got fairly upo n the sea coast -
,

which we m ean t to fol o w to S ud ak an d to avoid

repetitio n I sha en deavo u r to give a ge n eral de
,

scriptio n of it Fro m Balakl av a all alo n g to K affa

.
, ,

or Theodosia the T aur i dan m o un tain s form as

, ,

it were an i m m e n se terrace or li n e of bold an d

, ,

lofty prom on tory broke n i n to m o un tai n s som e

, ,

ti m es presen ti n g their perpe n dic ular or overhan g s

i n g fro n ts so m eti mes exhibiti n g their fan tastic pro

,

les separated i n to cliffs an d peaks an d so m etim es ,

desce n di n g by ge n tle decli v ities to the valleys or ,

stretchi n g to n u m ero u s bea uti ful bays of the sea .

The distan ce b etwee n the m o un tai n s an d the s e a

m ay v ary fro m t w o an d three to Si x an d eight
m iles an d t he i n ter v e n i n g space is occ upied by a
,

s u ccessio n of n e valleys fro m L aspi to n ear S ud ak .

The i m posi n g bo u n dary is here an d there n aked ,

but is ge n erally covered by woods or scattered ,

l
trees ; an d m an y tran sparen t stream s iss u e fro m
betwee n the rocks which at ti m es swell i n to cas
, , ,

cades an d roll tow ards the ocean wateri n g the

, ,

low lyi n g lan ds i n their progress

-
.

'

The Village of M u c h a at k a deserves n o p ar ti c u n

x 4

819 K I JT CH U K -K O L K I K E N I S .

lar n otice Fro m it the road wi n ds alo n g the bas e

.
,

o f the m o u n tai n s at a co n siderable

, dista n ce fro m ,

an d height above the level of the s e a We e n

,
.

t e r e d K I I t c huk Koi u n der the Shade of wal n ut tree s
- -

an d g trees - an d s u rro un ded by po m egran ates

,
.

I n the year 1 7 8 6 this village was destroyed by t h e

separation an d fall of i m m e n se m asses of th e rock
above it whic h is described at great len gth by
,

Pallas A si m ilar ride carried u s to K ik e n i s abou t

. .

m id day an d here we deter m i n ed to di n e an d

-
,

chan ge horses We were m e t by a patrol of thre e

.

of the Gr e ek soldiers of Balakl a va who were sta ,

t i on e d at this village for a Short ti m e an d the n ,

were to exchan ge with others K i k e n i s is a vill ag e .

l
of n o great Size bu t pleasan tly situ ated am i d
,

waln u t trees pl u m trees cherry trees an d vi n es

-
,
-
,
-
, ,

an d co m m a n ds an exte n sive View At it passed .

so m e a m u si n g sce n es S ultan Katti Gherri Kri m .

-

l
Gherri haran gu ed the Tartars an d their M oh a
on the doctri n es of Christi an it I a n n o u n ced th e
y

celebratio n of what we called O ly m pic Ga m es ,

an d displayed th e pri z es con sistin g of article s ,

which we had p u rchased at Sym p he r op o e an d

Bak t c hi se r ai ; a n d on e of the party assisted by a ,

l
Greek soldier (I acti n g as R u ssia n i n terpreter ) ,

prep ared the di n n er ou r cook n ot havi n g arrived

,

with the l uggage L a m b he n s eggs an d b u tte r

.
, , ,

were soo n proc u red ; with which an d ou r ow n ,

boui on excelle n t so u p boiled an d roasted m eat

, , ,

an d pan cakes were speedily prepare d to the n o

, ,
 K I K E NI S .

A M USE M E N T S . 818

sm all am use m en t of the Tarta r s A low woo d e n .

table was set out for di n n er un der a shade i n th e

ope n air an d we partook of our repast s u rrou n ded
, ,

by a crowd of the n ati v es to who m the S ultan had

,

m ade a prese n t of a New Testa m e n t i n their ow n ,

lan gu age They see m ed m ore i n terested i n r e

.

gardin g u s than the book ; bu t t hose who were

c u rio us t urn ed over a leaf n ow an d then which ex ,

cited so m e co n ve r s ation am o n g the asse m bly By .

the ti m e di n n er w as o v er the S tar st or elder h ad , ,

asse m bled old an d yo u n g m e n boys an d eve n chil

, ,

dren i n deed all the m ale pop u lati o n of the v illage

, .

We i n stitu ted races of the boys which were e n ,

t e r e d i n to with spirit The wrestli n g of t he Tar

.

tars was extre m ely am u si n g I n place of closi n g

.
,

they cal m ly seize each other s trowsers belo w
the hips an d then begi n the str uggle
, Th ey .

overthrow their an tagon ists by s u dde n p u lls fro m

side to Side an d so m eti m es by lifti n g them off the
,

l
gro u n d They san g i n acco m pan i m e n t to the
so u n ds of a ki n d of gu itar but witho u t m u ch grace
,

or har m on v ; an d their dan ci n g was m ore like j u m p

l
i n g an d hoppi n g This was a m e m orable day for
.

the n atives who were high y pleased with the

,

re w a r ds D u ri n g the a m u se m e n ts crowds of the

.
,

Tartar w o m e n girls an d fe m ale childre n had col

, ,

e c t e d on the at roofs of their ho u ses to witn es s ,

the sport ; an d we p u rposely feign ed to take n o

n ot i ce of the m so as n ot to cau se alar m an d th u s
, ,

have an opport un ity of exa m i n i n g the m at leis ure ,

as a Si n gle m arked look wo uld have p u t the m all t o

 ight O ur c u riosity n ot bei n g satised with this
.

distan t Vie w we m ade sign s to the m to co m e an d

,

co n te n d for prizes also ; this they n ot o n ly refu sed

to do but bega n to r u n a w ay We u n exp ectedly
,
.

dashed a m on g the m an d a scen e of great co nfu sion,

follo w ed They too k to their heels u pset eac h

.
,

other an d scream ed viole n tly I n deed they did

, .

n ot thi n k the m selves sec u re till lodged withi n

their ho u ses on the declivity of the m o u n tai n an d
, ,

i n to which it wo u ld have bee n recko n ed a violatio n .

of decor um a n d of right to have followed them

, , .

The Tartars who perha p s did n ot m u ch relish

, , ,

this sce n e prete n ded to be highly a m u sed There

, .

was n othi n g i n v iti n g abo ut the wo m e n i n their

perso n s their faces or their m ode of dress ; but on
, , ,

the con trary so m ethi n g v ery rep ulsi v e We m ade

, .

presen ts to all aro un d u s an d biddi n g adie u to , ,

our n e w acq u ai n ta n ces who ki n dly i n vited u s to ,

ret u r n we le ft K i k e n i s
, .

By a wi n di n g road we arri v ed at Si m ae u s abo u t ,

six m iles fro m K i k e n i s Tho u gh the road had .

bee n repaired i n 1 8 1 8 an d still was i n good order , ,

yet we fo un d it freq u e n tly i n terr upted by qu an tities

of sc hi st us which had tu m bled down The s ure
, .

footed Tartar horses co n d u cted u s safely by the

m argi n s of precipices an d alo n g the i n cli n ed base of ,

the m o un tai n s u pon a ver y n arrow pl ath Betwee n

, .

K i k e ni s an d Si m m us we re m arked what is n ot un ,
-

freq u e n t on the so u th coast of the K r i m e a i m ,

m e n s e m asses of rock so m ewhat i n the for m of a ,

ship which at so m e for m er perio d had separated

, , ,

SI M E U S A L YI JP K A . . 815

fro m the bold pro m o n tory abo v e an d rolled i n to ,

the sea O pposite the m the n aked wild an d m a

l
.
, ,

j e s t i c m ou n t ai n s se e m to o v erhan g an d threate n i n g ,

to de t ach the m sel v es i n spire the beholder with awe ,

.

At Si m ae us we were sal u ted by an other gu ard of

th e A r n aout Greeks as we proceeded u n der the ,

so m bre shade of olives wal n ut trees an d g trees ,

-
,
-
,

i n term ixed with vi n es an d po m egran ates The .

form idable aspect of the craggy an d peaked rocks

on the n orth the u n bo u n ded tran q u il
,
dark bl u e
sea on the so uth with the s m ili n g valley of ,

Si m aeu s betwee n the m covered with v ery l u x u rian t ,

l l
foliage for m ed on e of the m ost i n teresti n g sce n es
,

which it is possible to con ceive Pallas has give n

lll
.

a Vie w O f this valley which by n o m ean s does ,

it j u stice an d Castel n au exclai m s

, S u i ss e s i , ,

fer ti e en c ha r m an s sa e s, on vous ou b i e , en
p y g a

v oy a n t e va on de S em en s I
Fro m Sim mu s to A yup k a the road con ti n u ed

l
wi n di n g as be fore thro u gh the m ost charm i n g
, ,

sce n ery thro ugh fairy la n d i f s u ch there be i n

,
-
,

this world E nj oyi n g the rays of the setti n g s un

.
,

which darted thro ugh a shady n arrow alley of

wal n u t trees v i n e s an d gs we e n tered A yIk a
-
, , , ,

on e of the best a n d m ost delightful villages on th e

l
whole so u th coast H ere the wild v i n e c r eeps like.
,

ivy up the walls an d cov ers trees so e n tirely as

, , ,

to leav e o n ly a part of the ste m or of a bran ch

u n covered to proclai m the parasit e
, .

A yI k a is n ot a large village It co n tai n s bu t .

thirty ho u ses as was shown by an i n scriptio n u po n

,
 T A R T A R VI L L AG E S A ND H O U SE S .

a woode n post as we e n tered it ; the sam e c u sto m

,

bein g adop ted here as i n R u ssia Proper though ,

l
n ot so rigoro u sly e n forced of m aki n g every ha m let
,

display its e n sign with the n am e of its proprietor

, ,

i f it belo n g to an i n divid u al ) its ow n n am e an d

( , ,

l
its pop ulatio n A s m all w oode n m osqu e w ith its
.
,

ow m i n aret alo n e b r eaks the u n i for m ity of th e

,

stru ct u res of this village .

The T artar Villages u pon the coast are ge n erally

l
b u ilt on the declivity of the hil s an d the h ou ses ,

l
are arra n ged so m eti m es like terraces ri si n g on e ,

above a n other som eti m es m ore like the steps of a

,

sin gle stair an d so m eti m es irreg ularly scattered

, .

I n so m e places they are al m ost e n tire y form ed

by n atu ra hollows i n the rock an d i n others by ,

m aki n g excav at i o n s ; so that the n atives have

little m ore to do than to add a fro n t an d a roof to
thei r h uts Few Of the m are of wood ; they ar e
.

al m ost all con str u cted of sto n e an d clay i n the ,

r u dest m an n er ; for architec tu re is little m ore

k n ow n am on g the Tartars of this part of the

l l
K r i m e a than a m o n g the m ost savage n ati on s
, .

Their roofs m ade of stro n g plan ks an d at like

, , ,

a oor are covered with argillaceou s earth

, ,

which harde n s i n the sun an d beco m es i m pe ,

n e t r ab e to water The n atives walk lo u nge

.
, ,

form s m oki n g parties an d s e ep u po n the m i n

, ,

tru ly O rien tal style ; an d i t is n ot un co m m on

to see cows sheep an d goats reposi n g i n the
, ,

sam e situ at ion The m o u n tai n o us tribes of the

.
 T A R TA R V I L L AG E S A ND H O U S E S . 817

l
Cau cas u s i n m an y pl aces have si m ilar str u e
, ,

t u res The i n terior of the Tartar h uts gen e r ally

.

ass u m es the squ are for m varyi n g fro m eight to ,

twelve or ftee n feet i n le n gth an d brea dth T he v .

l
ar e li ghted by on e or t w o s m al w i n dows w ith o u t ,

glass or sh utters I n wi n ter or d uri n g bad weather

.
, ,

boards or lattices ll u p the open i n gs a n d fe w of

, , ,

the n ati v es are at the pain s to e m ploy even oiled

paper i n place of g ass O n on e side of the apart .

m e n t is a large r e place an d the other is a ki n d of

-
,

recess or a platform on whi ch are piled u p abun d

, ,

an ce of gau dy colo u red c ushio n s which ser v e for

-
,

sho w or for seats by day an d beds by n ight Most

, .

of th e Tartars also cover the oor with a ki n d

of coarse carpet M an y of their b uildi n gs have

.

m ore than a si n gle apartm e n t Where there are .

'

two room s on e of the m is occ upied by t he fe

,

m ales ; bu t whe n a Tartar has two wives eac h ,

of the m has her separate cham ber As the wo m en .

always withdraw on seein g stran gers Sho uld there ,

be bu t a si n gle roo m i n the hu t they retr eat to ,

th e ho u se of a n eighbo u r The Tartar wo m e n .

,

ho w ever are n ot un willin g to receive fe m ales of

,

other n at io n s as we learn fro m Mrs Holder n ess

, .
,

who m ade the m m an y Visits an d who has recorded ,

the res ults of her observation s d u ri n g a reside n ce i n

the K r i m e a i n an i n teresti n g little vol u m e
, Man y .

Not e s r l ti g t t h C
e a n o e u s t om s an d Ma r
n n e s of th e Krim
Tart ars . B y M ry H ol d r e
a e n ss, 1 82 1 .
818 T A R T A R VI L L AG E S A ND H O U SE S .

of the Tartar villages are qu ite b uried i n grov es an d ,

co n cealed by the l u x u ria n t foliage of the cli m ate ,

l
till on e is close u pon the m I n the at parts of the .

l
K r i m e a as we shall see by an d by the ho u ses are
, ,

s m all so m e e n tirely abo v e the gro un d others partly

, ,

s ubterran ean .

We passed the n ight at A yI k a by m a n y e s ,

tee m ed the rst am on g a the charm i n g Sites O f

l
the K r i m e a ; an d ass u redly n o p e n c an describe
,

its beau ty or the gran de u r of t he s urrou n d in g

,

l
sce n ery It is conj ectu red that at so m e form er
.
, ,

an d ,
probably re m ote period the bro w of th e
, ,

m o un t ai n had detached itsel f an d i n its fa l was , , ,

crashed i n to a thou san d for m s ; an d that u pon

l

the d e br i s A yi k a w ith all its hou ses garde n s
, , , ,

an d arable la n d is sit u ated The m or n i n g after ou r

, .

arri v al we we n t to see the gar den s an d w ere n ot

, ,

l
disappoi n ted by the owery descrip t ion s of trav el
lers L au rels gs date pl u m s (D i ospy r os ot os )
.
, ,
-
,

m u lberries vi n es c ulti v ated an d wild

, , &c were , .

see n on every side as w e wan dered am id i n n u ,

m e r ab e m asses of detached rock bet w ee n which ,

owed a profu sio n of crystal rivu lets .

Notwith stan di n g the rare beau ty an d m agn i

cen ce of i n n u m erable situ ation s on the so u th coast
of the K r i m e a the i n d u ce m e n ts of a delightfu l
,

cli m ate d uri n g the greatest part of the year an d ,

an ab u n da n ce of n e fr u its al m ost spo n ta n eo u sly

prod u ced althou gh the pen i n s ula has be en i n

the possessio n of the R u ssian s above forty years
 ll
SU B JE C T I O N OF THE T AR TAR S . 819

n ot a n oble has take n u p his per m an e n t reside n ce ,

l
an d scarcely an for the s u m m er m o n ths fro m Se
y ,

l
v st o o e to A
p u
y p k a an d i n deed eve n to Nikita
, , , .

What wan t of taste for n e sce n ery

O n the m orn i n g of the 1 8 t h on e of the Greek ,

l
soldiers acted as our co n d u ctor while p e r am bu at

i n g the vici n ity of A yI k aZan d a n um a srn i? f

n atives watched ou r m otio n s wit h the p e n e t r at

i n g eye of c u r i osi ty ; bu t as u s u al they were e x c e s
, ,

si v e obligi n g an d co m m u n icative a n d see m ed

y ,

to have a high degree of s u avity an d i n offe n

s i v e n e ss i n their n at u re whic h di d n ot altogether
,

accord with the ideas we had form ed of the pro u d ,

h au g h ty ferocio u s Tartars of the K r i m e a who

, ,

were o n ce so pote n t a n d so dreaded by thei r

,

n eighbo u rs an d who m ade irr u ptio n s i n to Pola n d

,

an d R u ssia with re an d sword an d le ft r ui n an d ,

desolatio n i n their track Bu t the days of the .

Golden Horde are passed away an d the m asters ,

are n ow beco m e the s ubj e cts of a power whic h

they o n ce despised Probably they wo uld attem pt
.
,

agai n to beco m e th e m asters were there bu t t h e ,

hope of s u ccess of their bei n g able to Shake off

their depe n de n ce The vigilan t policy of R u ssia
.
,

the e m barrassed state of t he Porte an d the

,

p rogress of the affairs of E u rope le av e little roo m ,

for thei r prese n t co n solatio n M Bu t it m ay be .

h oped that be fore a great f hn y years revolve

, ,

the chan ges which the Greeks m ay operate i n

the E ast or the re v ol ution s which m ay be ex
,
 8 90 S U B JE C T I O N OF T H E T AR TAR S .
YAL TA .

e cte d to happe n i n R u ssia will u lti m ately lead to

p ,

so m e i m portan t steps i n favo u r of the n atives of

this char m i n g bu t oppressed pe n i n su la I do n ot
, .

m ean howe v er to assert that the p r ese n t go v er n

, , ,

m e n t is oppressi ve b y its u k as e s or by t h e k i n d of ,

ad m i n istration which it has desti n ed for th e regu ~

lation of the Tartars O n t h e co n trary m ild n ess

.
,

an d forbeara n ce are rather its c har acteristics ; an d

it per m its the n ativ es to e nj oy vario u s i m m un ities

an d privileges which are de n ie d to the R u ssian s .

But the m ischief is that whatev er m ay be the i h

, ,

te n tio n s of the sovereign t he sam e syste m of ,

bribe r y an d corr u ption which characte r i ses the

ci v il ad m i n istration i n R u ssia Prope r likewi se pre ,

vails in as great or eve n a greater degree i n the

, ,

foreig n provi n ces of this e m pire i n all of which;

a part or th e whole of the j u dges an d person s i n
, ,

l
l l
power are real R u ssian s as i n th e K r i m e a an d i n ,

Georgia I n con sequ e n ce of the u n iversal perver

.

sio n of j u stice the m o n archs of R u ss i a howev er

, ,

be n evole n t an d si n cere i n their desig n s are c om ,

p ete
y deceived as to their exec u tio n .

The ro u te v i ll ages ri v ulets m o un tai n s plan ts

, , , , ,

a n d m i n erals fo un d betwe e n A a an d Nik i ta
y k
I ,

ar e so m i n u tely describe d by Pallas that i t ,

wo u ld be s uper uou s to say a word of the m here .

Before reachi n g Yalta a b eau ti ful bay with a , ,

s m ooth san dy shor e i n vite d u s to bath e i n the

, ,

Bl ack Sea whose waters eve n here are but slightly

, , ,

bra ckish to the taste A S we were crossi n g the.

 YA L T A .
GR E E K M ON A S TE R Y . 8 21

l
ri v u let Yalta W e were s urprised by the approach
,

o f a Koz ak on horseback who de m an ded our ,

n a m es .
H e a n d a f e,w of his co m rades d w ell i n ,

a s m all white ho u se by the side of the bay of

Ya ta to protect the co m m erce of this pla c e ; a
,

c o m m erce so tri i n g that perhaps the expe n s es , , ,

e xceed t h e
p r ot s . We passed D r e k oi
. an d at , ,

a Short distan ce fro m Nik i ta we m ade a pau se at ,

the r u i n s of a s m all Greek m on astery which is de ,

s cribed by Cl arke a n d was j u dged worthy of an

,

e n gravi n g i n his travels exec u ted from a d raw in g ,

o f Mr Heber on acc oun t of

.
, t he gra n de u r of

lll
t h e situ atio n but it did n ot stri k e u s i n the sam e
m an n er a m id so m an y m ore beau ti fu l spots i n its
,

n eighbo u rhood Its broke n dow n a n d hal f-u n roo fed

.
-

l
walls had a ven erable aspect an d were overh un g , .

by Trav el e r s Joy (C e m ati s Vi ta ba ) The trib u .

tary offeri n g to the ge n i u s of the place i n so m e ,

verses writte n with a pe n cil by Mr Tweddell the , .
,

frie n d of C arke is n ow n o lo n ger Vis ible I n deed

, .
,

the on ly rem ai n i n g m orsels of plaster are covered

by the u n profan ed i m ages of som e sain ts an d by ,

the n am es of late Visitors who I s uppose were , , ,

obliged to erase the m ore classi c n a m es of T w e d

d ell an d Clarke and P allas t o m ake roo m for

, , ,

their ow n .

Soon after leavi n g the s e ru i n s the regularity of ,

the garden s with a s m all tem ple beside s a n u m ber

, ,

of adj oi n i n g ho u ses i n dicated the situ at ion of

,

Niki ta on the sea coast

,

The de sc e nt t o i t is
.
.
-

V OL . I . Y
8 22 N I K i TA .

l
v ery rapid T he weather was warm ; an d we
.

distu rbe d two very large adders bask in g I n the su n ,

i n the m iddle of a n arrow path We h ad des .

patched a letter with whic h Mr Steve n had

, .

fu rn ished u s at Sym p h e r op o e for the garde n er ,

at Niki ta the precedi n g eve n i n g ; but the lazy

,

Tartar m esse n ger had o n ly arrived at his desti n

,

atio n an hou r before u s He was ogged as he .

,

l
dese r ved for his n eglige n ce D u ri n g his p u n ish
, .

m e n t h e r e m ai n e d i m m ovable as a stat u e an d i n
, ,

hi s cou n te n an ce was expressed the greatest sang

f r oi d scarcely were his feat u.res dera n ged a nd ,

he repeated y said h i s back was acc u sto m ed to

s u ch strokes Nothi n g c an be a s u rer i n dica
.

ti on of the loss of spirit an d the subj ection of the

T ar t ar s than the ta m e n ess with which they s u b m it
,

l
to this an d Si m ilar chasti se m e n ts .

At Nik i ta we fo un d n e ither m e n n or horses an d , ,

there fore we retai n ed those we had after ar r an g

, ,
~

i n g w i th th e i r c o nd u ctors All the m ales of this .

village had been ordered to Sym phe r op o e to as

sist i n killi n g the loc u sts .

We took possession of Mr Stev e n s sn ug an d .

leasa n t ho u se an d hav i n g e n listed so m e sol d i ers

p ,

i n ou r service we had a di n n er cooked i n the

,

l
k itche n of which we partook u n der the shade of a
,

m o un tai n ash (Sor bus d om e st i c a ) of e n orm o u s S ize

-
_
.

W e were furn ished with red an d white K r i m e an ,

wi n e som e years old fro m the cellar which belon gs

, ,

to t he crow n an d is give n g r atis t o a trav ellers

,
 ll
NI K i TA .
- B O T A N I C GA R D E N . 8 28

We fo un d it delicio u s an d very differen t i n q uali t y

,

from what we had partake n of i n the co u rse of ou r

j o u rn ey e sp e c i a v at Sym p h e r Op O e There it is
, .

ge n erally sold whe n qu ite n e w an d un t for u se .

The I m perial Garde n s of Niki ta w e re i n stit uted

by the crown i n the year 1 8 1 1 Their obj ect is
, .

l
twofold : 1 st t o serve as a n u rsery an d 2 d as a , , ,

b ota n ic garde n for rare plan ts Tho ugh they ar e .

laid ou t with som e taste an d thou gh their obj ects ,

are i n so m e degr e e an swered yet we felt c on ,

si de r ab e disappoi n t m e n t i n v i e w m this establish

g
m e n t a fter havi n g heard so m an y po m po u s e n
,

c om i u m s bestowed u po n it At the peri od of ou r .

v is it the garden s co n tai n ed abou t a thou san d spe

cies of fru it t r ees i e of differe n t ki n ds with
-
, . .
,

their v arieties an d above , plan ts The soil .

is n ot the best ; an d although water is ab u n dan t

,

for n i n e m o n ths of the year yet d u ri n g J un e

, , ,

J uly an d A u gu st there is a great scarcity of it

, , .

It is then n ecessary to fetch it fro m the distan ce of

two versts fro m the riv ulet n ear the Greek m on as
,

t e r y already n oticed
, n o easy task whe n we c on ,

sider the lon g an d rapid ascen t an d desce n t to be

traversed an d t he qu an tity of water req uired daily
,

for the garde n s .

Nik i ta lies ope n to th e sea an d at ti m es as the , , ,

garden er i n form ed u s is exposed to terrible wi n ds

,

fr o m the so u th bu t still m ore fro m the so u th east

,
-

an d so u th west a statem e n t whic h m ilitates m u ch

-

agai n st Clarke s owery an d elegan t de s criptio n
Y 2
3 24

of
N i K i TA .
B O T A N I C GA R D E N

the sou th coast of the K r i m e a the ter r e str i a

It is tr u e i n deed that d uri n g th e
n e seaso n an y i n divid u al is apt to b e carri ed away
, ,
,
.

l
by the sedu ci n g beau ties of the coast an d to for ,

get that ther e is a short an d som etim es a very ,

severe, wi n ter I n de ed the wi n ter after our j ou r

.
,

ne
y proved very hard The ther m o m eter s un k .

to zero of Fahre n heit an d s n ow to the depth of , ,

above two feet covered the K r i m e a Th e torre n ts

, .

wh ich ow from the m ou n tai n s an d w hich are sel ,

d om oz e n were co n verted i n to ice ; an d the i c e

'

ou the Ci m m e rian Bosphor u s

-
becam e so stro n g ,

l
that people crossed on foot fro m Kertch to Ta in an
w ithout an y dan ger ; a rare occ u rren ce I n the .

level part of the co u n try i n n u m erable horn ed cat ,

tle sheep an d h or se s died for w an t of Shelter an d

, ,

food .I n deed Mrs Holder n ess who it m u st n ot

, .
, ,

be forgotte n resided at K ar agOss i n a n orthern

, ,

expos u re describes the wi n ter as ge n erally m ore

,

severe tho ugh shorter than that of E n glan d

, , .

I n a s m all te m ple charm i n gly situ ated an d , ,

com m an di n g a n e Vie w of the sea stan ds u po n a ,

pedestal a bron ze statu e of L in n aeu s wh i ch was ,

presen ted to Niki ta by on e of the m os t liberal

patro n s of arts scien ces an d literatu re i n the R u s
, ,

sian e m pire Cou n t R u m an t sof This gen tle m an is

, .

better kn o wn to the world for havi n g tted ou t the

R urik at his ow n expe n se which c i rc u m n avigated ,

Clark e s Travels p

, . 5 30 .
 N I K i TA B O T A N I C GA R D E N 8 25

l
. .

th e globe u n der the co m m an d of Kotzeb u e S u c h

, .

m e n do ho n o u r to the co u n try which gave the m

l
birth an d to h u m an n at u re
, .

Pa l as i n co m m e m oratio n of his travels an d

,

dis coveries i n the K r i m e a as well as of his ta ,

le n ts also deserv e s a m o n u m e n t i n this te m ple ;

,

till the erectio n of which P a asi um P t er oc occ os , ,

which is here fOun d i n great ab un dan ce serves its ,

place .

l
We were in for m ed that there are o n ly twelv e
m e n e m ployed i n the garde n s of Ni k i ta d u ri n g
s u m m er bu t that m ore are attached to the m i n
,

wi n ter whe n less wan ted

, T his con r m s the .

doctri n e of the ge n tle m a n at Se vast Op o e t hat t he ,

R ussi an s d o n ot hi ng r ig ht We fo un d the garde n er .

an i n tellige n t m an He c arri ed u s to his hou se

.
,

an d showed u s his collectio n of silkworm s , which

s u cceeded here very well .

The village of Niki ta con tain s twen ty v e h o u ses -

,

an d i s i n every respect like m os t of the other Tar

, ,

tar villages we passed u po n the level parts of the

v alleys Its sit u ation to the east of the garde n s
.
, ,

am idst n u m erou s large trees wou ld be a delightful ,

place for an E n glish Villa .

We agai n res u m ed ou r ro u te ; an d soon after ,

leavi n g Niki ta we e nj oyed a su perb View The n o

, .

ble bay bo u n ded by the pro m o n tory Niki ta B u ri i n
,

on on e side an d by the m o u n ta i n A yu Dagh on the

,
-

other ; two i n s ulated abr upt rocks risin g out oft h e

sea like t he r u in s of castles ; th e rom an ti c v illage
'

Y 8
 8 96 YU R S U F .
A YU -
~
DA G H .

Yu r s uf ; the exq uisitely bea uti fu l r ural sce n ery ,

i n cl u di n g t h e s u m m er ho u se of the late Duc de

-

l
Richelie u ; an d the dark bl u e E ux i n e which '

waters the foot of the m o un tain s all co njoi n t o

for m a n e pa n ora m a Pallas has g ive n a v ig
.

n ette of the bold rock a n d fortress of Yu r s u f with ,

a lon g descriptio n of it ; Cast e n au s work c on
tai n s a represe n tatio n of the sam e i n cl u di n g the ,

ho u se of the Du e de Richelie u ; an d the vig n ette

to this chapter gives a j u st idea of the pro m on tory
of A u Dagh - an d the obj ects i n its v ici n ity We
y , .

l
asce n ded the hill an d passed thro ugh the village of
,

Yu r s uf wh i ch affords an excelle n t speci m en of th e

,

m an n er of b u ildi n g e m ployed by th e Tartars It is .

less s urrou n ded by trees an d is there fore m ore dis

,

l
t i n c t y see n tha n m a n y others .

We passed A yu Dagh on the right which lay

-
,

l
betwee n u s an d the sea The n am e of this m o u n
.

ta i n i s n ever wri tte n as Clarke writes it ; n or has it

an
y re fere n ce to H o
y M ou n t a i n as so m e ha,v e
s upposed Ay u Dag h is a co m po un d Tartar word
.
-
,

an d litera ly m ean s Bear Mo u n tai n as Pallas ha d-

,

l
previo usly i n form ed u s an d as was con r m ed
,

by S ultan Katti Gherri Kri m Gherri A n idea of

- - .

the gu re of this hill m ay be better obtai n ed from

the Vi g n ette than fro m an y description Its m i .

nera o
gy i s all u ded to by Pallas an d both he a n d

Clarke speak of the r ui n s of a Greek m on astery

u po n i t s s u m m it . O ur road so m eti m es lay alo n g
t he declivity of the hills a n d so m eti m es by the ,

K LJTC H UK -L A M P AT . S C H I S T US . 8 97

n e bay of the sea Before w e passed Part h e nit e

.

n ight had overtake n u s but we were lighted on ,

ou r way by a bea u ti ful clear m oo n to KI I t c hu k

L am p at the estate of Sen ator B or oz di n whose

, ,

letter proc u red u s a lodgi n g for the n ight .

The v illage of K t c h uk L am p at is u n worthy of -

n otice ,bu t the hou se of the Se n ator is agreeably

placed i n a beau ti fu l an d tran qu il sp ot It is a plai n .

edice of two stories i n h e ight; wi th a s em i circ u lar -

balcon y fron ti n g to the sea Its Site is n ear the .

m id dle of a se m i oval bay with Par t he n i t e an d the

-
,

A y u Dagh on the west an d an other bold p r om on

-
,

tory on the east an d craggy m o un tai n sce n ery

, ,

l
a n d lovely groves of fr u it trees on t h e n o rth It - .

is truly on e of n atu re s choicest spots
, , .

O n leavi n g ou r lodgi n g 0 1 1 the 1 9t h of May we , ,

received a fe w bottles of K r im e an wi n e w hich we ,

i

fo u n d of good qu ality A fter ascen di n g a bil

.

an d gai n i n g the se a shore on the o posite S ide two

p
-
,

n early pyram idal rocks of n o great size , an d n ot ,

far dista n t fro m the lan d which were q u ite white , ,

a s i f covered with s n ow an d a n other at rock little

, ,

above the lev el of t he sea exhibiti n g the sam e ap ,

ar an c e ro u sed our c uriosity We soo n reached

p e , .

l
the riv ulet L am b at or Bij u kL am b at where we
, ,

fo u n d a fe w ho u ses an d a s m all Tartar corn m ill

,
- .

Traversi n g the sea shore th e stra ta of schist u s

-
,

n ow deeply excites the atte n tio n of the geologist .

They are horizo n ta u n d ulati n g serpe n ti n e an d

, , ,

eve n i n tersect ea ch other ; they dip from east to

Y 4
 l
39 8 sc HI S T U S . A L US I I T A
.

west at an i m m en se an gle an d i n deed i n som e , , ,

places are al m ost perpen dic u ar They also form

,
.

all ki n ds of se m i circles se m i ovals an d z i g zags

-
,
-
,
- .

Allowi n g that these strata had bee n detached at

so m e form er pe riod fro m a h igh hill on the n orth ,

it i s difc ult to co n c e i ve how they ass u m ed thei r

prese n t appearan ce For had it happen ed by an y
.
,

s udde n an d drea dfu l co n v ulsion of the earth w e ,

l
m igh t have expected the whole of their so ft m ate
rials to have bee n m in gled i n co n fusio n : or at ,

least n ot t o h ave exhibited the reg ularity which

,

they have really preserved .

Abo u t four ve r st s fro m A I I shta we had a bean
, ,

l l
tifu l Vi ew of the alp i n e sce n ery of the T au r i da .

O ur road which n ow for t h e m ost part lay n ear t he

,

sea-Shore becam e m u ch worse bec au se it was O ften ,

i n terr upted by ban ks of falle n schistu s .

l
A sht a is sit uated u po n an i n s u lated hill betwee n
the riv ulets T e m e r dshi an d M e s e r ik The rem ain s .

of three towers an d a high wall are acc u rately de

, ,

sc ri bed by Pallas who calls it a Greek citadel ;

,

l
an d C ark e on the au thority of Procopi u s
, says i t ,

was erected i n the ti m e of J u sti n ian The Vil .

lage is of co n siderable Si ze an d is partly b u ilt ,

withi n the walls of the fortress Fro m the al m ost .

total wan t of trees A i I Sht a is co m pletely exposed ,

an d it gives a correct but m ean character of

, ,

a Tartar Village u n adorn ed by n atu ral sce n ery

, .

The ho u ses rise i n the sam e terrace like m an n er as -

already described an d are p artly form ed on the

,
 l

ZE N
'

A L I JS H T A . K IJR U -U . 8 29

l
sides of the hill an d partly b u ilt of r u de ston es
, .

l
It m ay be said that the Tartars all alo n g the coast ,

of the K r i m e a ar e seldo m u po n a e vel s u rface

, ,

except whe n on the tops of their ho u se s .

We had here a View of th e vale of A sht a ,

thro ugh which a road con d u cts to Sym p he r op o e ,

the o n ly m ou n tai n pass easily practicable we had -

, ,

yet reached s i n ce we left Balakl ava Whe n we .

set out fro m K iI tc huk L am b at we had m ade our -

,

dispositi on s to asce n d the T c hadi r D agh as already -

,

said the highest m ou n tain i n the K r i m e a whic h

, ,

rises abo u t 1 900 or 1 8 00 feet above th e le v el O f the

sea an d owi n g to its form is called M ons T r a
, , ,

l
e s us Represe n tatio n s of it are give n both by
p .

Pallas an d Clarke It deserves a visit on acco u n t.

of its botan ical prod u ctio n s an d of the re m arkable ,

l
View of the whole K r i m e a from its s um m it Whe n
'

, .

we reached A II Sht a it was e n veloped i n C lo u ds , ,

a n d it n ow rai n ed so that ou r plan was destroyed

,

for the prese n t W e there fore determ i n ed to c on

.
_

t i n u e ou

r ro u te by the coast Betwee n A II sht a .

an d K II r u Uze n we re m arked the sam e ki n d of
-
,

broke n an d irreg ular schisto u s strata which hav e ,

bee n already n oticed an d at the place where a

lan d slip of the earth had take n place as m e n tion ed
-
,

by Pallas n u m erou s re n ts an d cav ern s are still

,

v isible bu t they are n ot so re m arkable as fo r m erly

, .

K ur u Uz e n is a trii n g Tartar village on a ge n tle

a n d proj ecti n g hill on the sea side m u ch e n l i ve n ed -

,

by the s m all white washed s u m m er ho u se of Dr - - .

38 0 R

l
OT C H UK -U Z E N

l l
.

L a n ge, of at wh i c h w e were r e
Sym p he r op o e,

c eiv e d While a heavy shower fell we galloped

.
,

to Kutch u k Uze n an d soon arr i v ed at the ho u se of

-
,

l
Co on el Steeg e who was acqu ai n ted wit h the Su
,

l
t an. Th i s ge n tle m an a Ger m an by birth after , ,

h avi n g been i n the R u ssian serv ice thirty v e years -

,

has retired to this place to e n d hi s days i n tran qu il

i ty Here we m e t w i th a welco m e receptio n di n ed
.
,

well qu affed a n um ber of bottles of exce e n t K r i

,

m ean wi n e dra n k co ffee an d passed so m e ho u rs i n

, ,

con versa tion an d i n obtai n i n g i n for m ation K i l t

, .

ch u k Uze n with the Colo n el s h o u se i n fro n t i s
-
, ,

s it uated i n a valley an d co n tai n s thirty ho uses

, .

The lan d belon gs to t he Colo n el an d the Tartars ,

for eight days work i n the ye a r rece i ve a s u f ,

c ien c of past u re for feedi n g their cattle O f all

y .

ll
the prod uc e of the lan d which they c u ltivate he , ,

rece i ves the ten th part an d the h un dredth part of ,

their sheep an d goats These we were i n form ed .

, ,

are the co n diti on s allowed th e Tartars as xed by ,

a co m m issio n at Sym p he r op o e thr ou ghout the ,

"

pe n i n s ula I n a m ild cl i m ate where the s oi is

.
,

good they are s uch as e n able the n atives to l i ve

,

at their ease a n d i n dulge i n their habitu al i n do

,

le n ce .

The road fro m K i I t c huk Uze n to Uskut soon -

leav es the sea Shore an d co n d u cts to th e mou n tai n s

-
, .

B usily occ upied i n botan isi n g I lost the party an d , ,

got co m pletely bew ildered am id the hills E ve n .

i ng approached an d I k n ew n ot w h ich way to t u r n

,
.

A R R I VA L A T U S K I JT 88 1

l
.

I left m y horse to his ow n will whe n fall i n g i n ,

l l
with a n arrow path I deter m i n ed to p u rs u e it
,

till I cam e to so m e village I proceeded at .

full gallop u n der heavy rai n soo n e n tered a v i

, ,

lage a n d stopped before on e of the peasan ts
,

l
ho u ses The fe m a e s who were i n the yard bei n g
.
,

serio u sly alarm ed ed i n to the ho u se I a ighted

, .
,

a n d took shelter u n der the li n tel o f the door bu t ,

I was e n treated by cries an d tears to depart A .

Tartar m oh a who was n ear i m m ediately cam e

, ,

u to m e an d as I had deter m i n ed to pass the

p ,

n ight here I e n deavou red to m ake frie n ds wit h

,

hi m an d with a n u m ber of his co u n try m e n who

, ,

had asse m bled ; I di st r ibu t e d a fe w leather n bags

am o n g the m m ade sign s of m y w i s h to be on
,

good ter m s Showed m y p u rse talked R u ss an d

, , ,

fo u n d they all co m prehe n ded the words d eng i

an d na vodt hi i o n ey a n d dri n k m o n ey The
(m ) -
.

wo m en becam e tran qu il ; the Tartars were rea

dy to serve m e an d to g i ve m e a lo dgi n g ; an d
'

we m an aged to carry on a co n versatio n by p an

l
t om i m e A fter a little ti m e a Tartar cam e to
.
,

m e took m y horse an d m ade sig n s to me to go

, ,

l

with hi m repeati n g the word ge n eral
, I sup .

posed so m e R u ssian gen eral had also arri v ed i n this

village an d had se n t for m e an d was n ot a i ttle
, ,

s urprised whe n the g uide co n d u cted m e to a hou se ,

whe r e a ou r party were assem bled and a nxiou s ,

abo ut m e I n ow fo u n d that I was i n Usk t

. .

We had war m m ilk an d tea here an d the whole ,

932 u s x ti r T A R T A R W O R SH I P
'
. .

v illage see m ed to asse m ble abo ut ou r lodgi n g .

We m ade a m u sical and dan ci n g party of as

l
m a n y Tartars as the apart m e n t wo uld ad m it .

The i n strum en t u sed i n shape rese m bled a gu i , ,

tar an d had ve m etal cords whic h were played

, ,
-

upo n by m ea n s of a piece of polished cherry tree -

bark of the for m of a n ge r n ai w hich was held

,
~
,

betwee n the th u m b an d n ger The n atives .

called it a s us an d said it w as bro ught fro m

,

Co n stan ti n ople T he i n str u m e n tal m u sic poss essed

.

n either reg ularity n or har m o n y ; the v ocal m u sic

see med as far as we co u ld j u dge to co n sist

, ,

i n stro n g n asal sou n ds which were m ost distress

l
,

i n g to our ears ; an d the d an c i n g w as si m ilar t o

what we hav e already noticed at K i k e n i s Havi n g .

l
rewarded our m erry e n tertai n ers an d an n o u n ced ,

O y mp i c Gam es for the followi n g m or n i n g ,

we displayed the prizes an d bade the m good ,

n ight I n the eve n i n g a fter ou r fellow travellers

.
,
-

were gon e to bed on e of the party an d I s a lied ,

forth to the Tartar m osq u e i n which we h ad r e ,

a

m arked n u m ero u s lights This edice I s O f a .

sq u are form an d a fe w feet fro m the door a rail

, ,

way r u n s across it The railed off space serves as

.
-

a porch i n which the worshippers leave thei r

,

clogs or their slipp ers I took off m y boots an d .

w alked ro u n d the m osq u e to exa m i n e pa r tic ularly ,

som e M ah om e dan pai n ti n gs an d i n scriptio n s upo n

the walls The w om e n hav e a gallery separated
.
'

by lattice w ork It was i m poss i ble n ot to O bser v e

- .
 l
U S K fI T T A R 1 A R W O R S HI P 8 88

. .

t he s i m ilarity of this m osq u e to the Jewish sy na

o u e s at T c hII fiI t K a

g g The S ile n ce the ri v etted

- .
,

a tte n tio n the be n di n gs at ti m es e v e n till the h ead

,
,

to u ched the oor t he down sitti n gs an d the up

,
-

l
risi n gs of the Tartars all s urprised u s O n e of ,
.

their m otio n s was pec uliarly striki n g ; while rest

i n g u po n their feet n ot u po n their k n ees their
heads to u ched or n e arly to u ched the oor an d
, , ,

l
the e ffect was to thro w their bod ies i n to the m ost n
d i c r ou s positio n The rapidity an d precisio n of the
.

Tartars m otio n s an d thei r co n stan t actio n i n c on
,

c ert re m i n ded u s of the m an oe u vre s of a co m pa n y

,

O f i n fan try The readi n gs an d pau ses of the m oh a

.
,

w hile co mplete still n ess reig n ed had a very sole m n ,

e ffect an d excited ou r ad m irati on

, .

O n the followi n g m orn i n g at an early ho u r , ,

for wan t of a dr u m a boy beat the tocsi n u po n

,

an i m m e n se brass p an an d we were speedily ,

s u rro un d ed by the villagers whe n we repeated the ,

am u se m en ts already spoke n of at K i k e n i s The .

Tartars were highly pleased with th e rewards an d ,

i n toke n of the i r good w ill they prese n ted u s w i th ,

plates fu ll of cherries .

USk II t is com parativel y speaki n g a large village
, , ,

for it con tai n s seve n ty hou ses an d m an y of the m ,

,

are m u ch larger tha n the r a bbi t war r ens we ,

had hitherto seen ; i n deed here we had to ascen d ,

to ou r apartm e n ts by a stai r as there was a k i n d of ,

base m en t story belo w The v illage is Si t uated i n

.
38 4 T CH UB A N -K AL E . K A P S O C H OR .

a dell thro ugh which the riv ulet Usk II t r un s e n
, ,

closed on all sides by lofty m ou n tai n s .

A fter asce n din g fro m Uskut we were e n c i rcled

with alpi n e an d rock sce n ery an d with n u m ero u s ,

peaks of that ki n d which is said to b e pec u liar t o

,

the K r i m e a an d of which the v ign ette to the n ext

,

chapter gives an excelle n t idea Hav i n g desce n ded .

i n to a valley we approached t h e castle or tower of

,

T c hI I ban K al e w hic h i s v ery co m m an di n g fro m
-
, ,

the hal f i n su lated rock on which it stan ds upo n the

-

coast The View is bo u n ded by the A y u Dagh

. ,
-
,

an d by an other pro m o n tory beyo n d S u d ak The .

tower is of a ro u n d form an d of co n siderable height , .

l
Its walls are th i ck an d its roof is arched so m ew hat
,

l
i n the for m of a c upola Pallas states all its m e a .

l
su r e m e n t s .

l
The barre n h ill an d the n aked Vici n ity of ,

T c hII ban Ka form a stro n g con trast to the de
-
,

i c i ou s sce n ery we had for so m e days bee n acc u s , ,

t om e d to behold L ike the plai n s of th e pe n i n s u a

.
,

the hill itself was covered with P eg an um H ar m a a .

A co uple of spec i es o f A r t e m i si a a n d the co m m on

J u n iper were its other ch ie f vegetable prod u ction s ;
,

bu t the S u m ach (R hus c or zar i a ) grows below i n

ab u n dan ce .

O n passi n g T c huban K al e toward K ap soc h r -

,

it seem e d as i f we had got i n to an other co u n try .

The soil is sterile ; an d roots of stun ted j un ipers ,

oaks h orn beam s &c spread every where i n the

,
-
, .
,

m ost fan tasti c for m s fro m elevatio n s across the , ,

 K A PS O CH OR .
K U T L AI< . 385

road tow ar d the earth i n q u est of w ater an d

an d ,

food . The large rotte n stem s an d bran ches of n u

m e r ous trees a s als o of j un ipers attest that h ere
, ,

was for m erly ab u n dan t vegetatio n Most proba .

bly so m e viole n t agitation of the ear th has led to

the prese n t desolation The irreg ular schisto u s
.

s trata o f vario u s appearan ce will n ot fail to excite

, ,

n otice The r st fe w versts fro m T c ht I ban K al e
.
-

e xhibits n at u re u n der s o m e of her less i n v iti n g ,

bu t n ot less i m pressive for m s bare wild m aj es , , ,

l
tic an d s ubli m e Soo n after tu r n i n g fro m the se a
,
.
,

l
s hore we e n tered th e village of K ap s oc hOr i n the
, ,

vale of t he sam e n a m e which is covered with gar

,

de n s an d vin eyards an d i s s u rrou n ded by ge n tly

,

acclivi to u s m o un tain s We proceeded to K u t ak

.
,

a s m a l village i n which is a di m i n u tive m os q u e

, ,

destit ute of a m in aret Here the Tartars good

.

n at u redly erected a shade over u s wh i le we partook ,

of a re fresh m e n t an d had ou r h ors es chan ge d

, .
 C HAP . V III .

THE VA S UD A K T H E I M PE R I A L VI NE YA R D S T H
LE or . . E

C AS L D O P UL A T O N O F T H K R I M E A I N S E C U R I T Y
T E . EP I E .

O F RO P TY CO U PE R C I VI L A D M I N I S T R A T I O N C R D
. RR PT . EE

I N R U SS I A N L G S L A T I O N AL XAND R E P O P UL A T I O N O
I . E E . F

T H E IM A
E IT
K C L ASS S C L O N 1 E S C H A R A C T R O F
E . S E . O . E

TH A R T A R S H I R L I T E A UR E O T R Y G BO G B A
E T . T E R T . P E .

UBL I C SCH O O L S T A R A K AS H

PHY M DI CI N
.
E E . S U I JK
P . T .

U I TI L L I N G K A R A S U A Z AR I T S C OM M R C -
-
S .L U E B ZL . . S E . E E .

T oR
I S LIKF KH AN I TS M A NUF AC T UR S I
TR Ess- E . E . TS

PO U L A I O N T R N I T Y S U N D AY
P T . D E 6T O M E D I C I N S
I .
- P F E

E X A O R D I N A R Y A N E CD O T
TR C I VI L M E D I C A L S T A FF I N E.

RU SS I A C M T E R I S O F T H
. T A R TA R s
E E DE SO L ATI ON O F E E .
-

l
T HE KE IM A A N CD O T E D R I VE N T E L EGA s T H UN
E . E . I .
-

D R S OR M
E - T S YM P H R O O L E A R R I A L A T K AFF A
A T E P . V .

A N CD A N C N T M O S QU E A E A R A N C O F K A FF A
E O TE . IE . PP E .

I TS B AY I T D E S C R I T I O N .
- O UL ATI O N
S Q UA R A N P . P P .

T I NE C O M M R C M U S E UM C O I N S
. E E. . .

F R O M t he Village of K u tl ak w e took Pa l as for ,

O u r g u ide an d soo n ca m e i n to the celeb r ated V ale

,
 V AL E O F SU D AK .
- T H E I M PE R I A L VI N E Y A R D S . 88 7

of S ud ak Wh ile travers in g i t we were h ighly

.
,

pleased w ith m an y charm in g vi e w s of the sam e ,

n at u re as that represe n ted i n the Vi g n ette i n the ,

prece din g page Here the soi l i s whitis h an d clayey

. .

V i n eyards an d groves of trees i n ter m ixed wi th n e ,

poplars abo un d on all s i des The cottages of the

, .

proprietors one or two stori es i n height white

, ,

l
w ashed an d t iled an d i n E u ropea n taste greatly e u
, ,

l
l i ve n th i s delightfu l valley which i s d e sc r ibe d by ,

Pallas w ith m u ch m i n u te n ess We rode di rectly to .

t h e i m per i al vi n eyar ds an d were ki n dly recei ved ,

by their di rector Mr iE se a Germ an who has , .

, ,

l
the r an k of a i e u te n an t colo n el We din ed i n hi s - .

hou se an d were s uppli ed w ith ab un dan ce of the

,

K r i m e an w i n es so m e of whic h were of s uperior

,

l
qu ality They belon g to the crown an d as at
.
, ,

Niki ta stran gers are supplied w ith the m at east i n

, ,

m oder ati on w i tho ut paym en t

, O f co u rse we m ade .

th e Colon el a presen t .

The Imp er ia Vin ey ar ds are of con s i derable ex

l
te n t an d bes i des the n ati ve v in es of the cl im ate
, , ,

they con tain m an y spec i es which have bee n i n tro

d uc e d at di fferen t t i m es The k i n ds of w i n e n ow .

m ade h ere ch i ey fro m fore i gn Vi n es

, are (as ,

iterally tran slated) red an d white wi n e of Z an te ,

red an d white w i n e of Korfu red Fre n ch ,

W in e ,
wh i te H un gar i an w i n e an d r e d claret ; ,

bes i des di fferen t k i n ds of red an d W h ite Kri

m ean wi n e The whole qu an tity of win e pro
.

d uc e d by th ese vi n eyar ds i n 1 8 2 1 am ount ed t o ,

V OL . I . Z
33 8 TH E CA STL E OF SU D AK .

V edros (each of fteen s m all size d bot tles ) - .

A c c or dI ng to their qu al ity they were sold at fro m

two an d a half to fo ur roubles p er v edro ; so that
l

l
t h e whole reve n u e p er h ap s am o u n te d to above
, ,

roubles .

The vi n eyards are four versts distan t from the

castle of S u dak wh i ch i t i s s upposed was b uilt by
, , ,

the Gen oese abo ut t he m id d e of the fourtee n th

,

cen t ury The inge n i o u s au thor O deri co h as be

. , ,

stowed a large portion of h i s work Upon th e history

of S udak an d i ts an tiq uit i es an d Pallas has g i ve n
*

a m i n ut e description as well as a V i ew of its for

, ,

t ress i h h i s travels
, Th i s au thor relates that at
.

the epoch of his rst Vi sit t o the castl e a n u m ,

ber of edices of el egan t arc hitecture i n t he

, ,

Goth i c style re m ai n ed but that they had been

, ,

destroyed i n order to r aise barracks withi n i ts

l
wall s - th us givin g an other proof of t he syste m of
destru ction which see m s to have reign e d through
ou t t he K r im e a except at Bak t c hi se r a i ever s i n ce

, ,

the R u ssian s possesse d it till the v i s i t of Alexan der

,

in 1 8 1 8 . The barrack s are a l owe d to go to r ui n ,

bein g n o lon ger of any u se At on e ti m e a r egi .

m en t or a battalio n was stati o n ed here

, , But n ow .

th i rtee n of the A r n aout Greeks w i th an ofcer ,

'

form the o n ly guar di an s of the place ; an d they ex

chan ge du ty every m o n th wi th ah equ al n u m ber

L et te re Ligu t i che dell

s

A bbat e G asp aro Lu g i i O de ri c o
.

8vo Bassano, 1 7 92
. .
 TH E CA S TL E OF SU D AK . 8 39

fro m Balakl ava Wi th an un der oi c er as guide

.
-

we asce n ded the highest peak of the castle but ,

l
w ith co n si d erable di fc u lty The chief tower i s .

of a squ are form ; its walls are very th i ck an d

co m posed en tirely of ston e an d its roof is vaulted ,

l
i n the Gothic style From he n ce the vie w i s r e
.

l
m ar k ab y n e O n our ret ur n we saw so m e foun
.

l
tai n s over on e of whic h is a c u ri ou s g ure of a
,

t utelary deity som e w hat like an expan ded bat

,

an d a serpe n t co nj oi n ed There is a Sc av on i c .

l
i n scription on the st on e be ow it but i t is n ear

e ffaced The Greek chapel of W h i ch Pallas

y .
,

speaks still re m ai n s an d i n it ser vi ce i s daily p er

, ,

form ed .

I n an c i e n t ti m es the cast e of S u d ak m u st have

,

been a place of great stren gth ; an d the c on

str u ctio n of its walls an d to w ers was n o doubt , ,

r ecko n ed an i m m e n se u n dertaki n g .

A fe w Tartar ho u ses n ear the castle wi th a fe w ,

ot h ers scattered over the adj acen t plai n form the ,

presen t town or rather village of S u d ak Mos t

, , .

of the form er have a very m iserable appearan ce ,

an d the latte r are bu t paltry A n u m ber of the m .

have n ot at r oofs .

The Tartars preten d that si n ce the occupation

l
of the K r i m e a by the R u ssian s thei r W i n ters have ,

been lon ger an d m ore severe than form erly an d

llas s Se c o d J o r ey
Pa

n u n , vo . iv . p . 1 14 .

Z 2
3 40 D E P O PUL A T I ON OF TH E KRI ME A .

no d oubt they have felt them so ow in g to the ,

chan ge i n their politi cal state Well i n deed

.
, ,

might i t be said that the Kr i m e a is n ow a d e

vast ate d p ay s an d the tr u th of th e r e m ark w as

proved by the r ui n s w h i ch w e every where beheld ,

l
an d the al m ost u n i versal di m i nu t i o n of the o u
p p .

lati on . R ussia (or rather her agen ts ) rst i n i cts

the m ortal woun ds i n oppress in g the people an d ,

thereby c au si n g the m t o e m igra te ; an d i n a nn i .

hi ati ng an cien t tow n s an d ve n erable r ui n s an d ,

ther eby m ak in g those w ho r e m ai n di sc on te n te d

l
an d It he n i ss uin g som e n ew uhriz es she e n
, ,

d eavour s to r e establ i s h the prosperi ty of the

-

K r i m e a by i n sti t uti n g fore ign as w ell as R uss i an

,
.

"

ll
colon i es ; by b uildi n g barracks an d othe r crown
edices ; by organ i s in g trib un als an d a cen tr a seat
ofj us t i ce by restor i n g an c i e n t n am es ; by for m i n g

a eet ; an d by b uildin g an d r e n ovatin g town s as ,

Se vastop o e Sym p h er op o e K affa an d K ertch

, , , .

B ut the pop ulati on i s go n e an d the m ost u seful

,

l
an d i n du str i o u s people the Greeks an d the Ar
,

m e ni an s have n early all left t he pe n i n su la

, In .

d ustr y an d co m m erce are n o m ore thou gh the ,

l
K r i m e a i s n ow s urrou n ded by ports on the Black
Sea an d on the Sea of A z op h Sevastop o e m ay
, .

con t in u e the great n aval station of the south of

,

R u ssia ; K affa an d Kertch m ay becom e n e s m all

town s of cr own e dices an d Sym p her op o e m ay
boast of i ts tri bunals an d i ts bein g the se at of a
,
 l
D E POPUL A TI O N OF TH E KR I MEA . 3 41

l
go ver n m en t ad m in i strati on ; but the prospect of
the K r i m e a e ver r egai ni ng its i m portan ce un der ,

the R ussian s see m s very s m al

l
.
,

The i n sec u ri ty of property has also c on trib ute d

l
to the declin e an d fal of the K r i m e a After i ts .

con qu est the e stat e s of the Tartars give n away

, ,

both to R u ssian s an d to n ati ves w ere aft erwards ,

l
reclai m ed by their origin al propri etors an d m an y ,

lon g protracted aw processes have been am on g

-

t h e co n seq u e n ces .

I n proo f of m y ow n observat i o n s m a de lo n g ,

b efore I saw Mrs Holdern ess s works I Shal
.
,

n ot hes i tate to m ake a fe w qu otat i o n s as they

are extre m ely i n teresti n g an d I am sorry t o add , , ,

they are but too correc t for the poor Tartars .

The co m m ission for exam in ing the titles of

d i sp u ted lan ds called i n R uss
, sp br nay a h om ,

m issi a
, see m s to hav e bee n very un s uccessful i n
i ts labo u rs ; the bou n dari es of estates i n the Cr i
m e a ar e still very i n d i sti n ctly k n own an d m an y , ,

i f n ot m ost of the m are i n volved i n a perplex ity

, ,

wh i ch appears to be hopeless from i t s l ong c on ,

l l

t i n uan c e .

Tr ib un als are establ i s hed i n the K r i m e a of the

s am e n at ure as those i n the other parts of t h e

R u ss i an do m i n ion s an d which I have explain e d

,

i n m y qu arto v o um e T Mrs Holdern es s has a . .

Ne w R ussia , p . 1 80 .

T Charac t er of t h e R uss ia
ns, &c . p . 267 .

z 8
l
349 C O R R UPT C I VI L AD M I N I STR A TI O N

l ll
.

u de d to som e of these trib un als very partic ularly ,

an d from her test i m o n y m ay be derived an other

powerful con rm ation of the horrible an d u n iver

s a corr upt i o n of c i vil ad m i n istratio n i n the do m i

ni o n s of R u ssia This lady after qu oti n g the

.
,

R u ssian proverb S ood y ubi t z o ot b i S tr ap tc hei

,

l
co urt loves gol d an d the n otary

l
re m arks that the K r i m e a is so m ewhat fam ou s for
veri fyi n g it . To the en qu iry m ade by a gen tle
m an of a k in d of u n der age n t i n on e of the tr ib u
-

n a s as to his op i n i o n respecti n g who sho u ld gai n

,

a aw process he r epli ed
, H ow mu ch m on ey w i ll
,

your fri en d give to have i t settled ? To u se a
com m on phrase the pocket i s so un ded for the sam e
,

r easo n that a phys i cia n feels hi s pat i e n t s p u lse an d ,

on its ful n ess or e m pti n ess ge n erally depe n ds t h e

i ss u e of the cau se .

Whatever stri ctn ess or con scien ti ou s deali n g ,

says Mrs Holdern ess

. m arks the heads of go
,

v e r n m en t i n the Cri m ea the u n derli n gs who l ive

, ,

u pon s u ch s m all salaries take a watch ful advan tage,

of every opport un ity for i n creasin g the m w hic h ,

l
the i r al m ost u n l im ited authori ty so frequ e n tly
presen ts the m w ith T .

The salary afxed to the o fce of i sp r avn i k i s

9 5 0 ro ubles p er annum wh i ch it has bee n c on , ,
,

d en t y sai d that he i s able to stretch to

,

Mrs Holdern ess does n ot vou ch for the truth of th i s

.

New R ussia, p . 118 .

1 i
Ib d . p . 1 19 .
 l
CR EE D OF R U SS I AN LE G I SL A T U R E . 8 43

l
s tate m e n t an d I am pers uaded that it i s e x tr ava
,

g ant. B u t she is correct i n asserti n g t h at i t i s an ,

sp r dvni h s n o m i n al
u n d o ubted fact that his
(the i , )

ll l
i n co m e is very m u ch belo w what he real y receives ;
an d that all above the s um a l owed by govern m en t

i s extorted from t he Tatars or rece i ved by w ay of ,

l
presen t wh i ch the don ors in m ost cases are c om
, , ,

e e d to m ake to avoid worse co n seq u e n ces
p ,

She also relates an an ecdote q u ite i n poi n t The .

l
late Mr E n ge . who had held the o fce of chief
,

at K affa an d was highly c a c ulated for this appoin t

,

m e n t re for m ed m an y ab u ses which had crept i n to

,

l l
the qu aran ti n e an d c ustom s an d exercised a watch ,

ll
fu care i n beh al f of the gover n m e n t w hich was ,

felt by m a n y who had be fore ack n owledged i n the ,

words of an oi c er the Director ge n eral of the ,

-

qu aran ti n e I rut vo er M on si eur T Thi s

, , .

i s exce e n t ; but I wo u d propose the followi n g

a m en d m e nt which m ay be con sidered as the cr ee d
,

l
of all the age n ts of the trib u n als h i gh an d low wi t h , ,

ll
a very fe w exception s an d which every co u rt i n the
e m pire o ught to have placed by the side of hi s I m

peri al Maj esty s p or tr ait Zt alas ! his d u m b r ep r e
se n t at i ve I faut vi vr e e t en R uss i e p our vi vr e
, ,

i faut vo er For the ben et of the R u ssian s I

.
,

shall give it t he m i n th eir ow n to n g u e : N ddobn o

Ne w R u ss i a,p 1 20 1 I bi d p 1 88
;
. . . . .

1: I e e ry ourt i s plac e d t he p ortrait o p ai ti g

n v c ,
r n n , of

A l e x d r t o e m i d th ose w h o e t e r i t th t t h e plac
an e ,
r n n , a e is
p ubli c im p erial a d sac re d
, , n .
344 T H E E M PE R O R A L E XA ND E R .

j
i t, 2 i v R ossn , n aidobn o that theuhr cis t . Oh
E m peror s portrait co u ld start i n to li fe or co u ld ,

bear witn ess to the w i cked tran sacti on s of the

R u ssi an cou rts ! His Maj esty s love of j ustice
w o uld then lead to m an y Sig n al chan ges .

I n an e m pire so exte n sive as that of R uss i a ,

w hatever be the e ffo r ts w hatever the w ishes of hi m ,

who govern s i t is scarcely to be expecte d the i r

,

i n u e n ce so powerfu lly felt at the ce n tre c an exte n d

, ,

w it h equ al force to those distan t provin ces which his

s m ile seldom visits h i s prese n ce rarely cheers Yet
, .

here tho ugh depravi ty m arks so m an y in divid uals

, ,

an d they m ar the e n dea vo u rs wh i ch the E m pero r

i s con ti n u ally m aki n g for the u n iversal ben et of

hi s s ubj ects eve n here he i s beloved an d respecte d
, , ,

reveren ced an d obeyed .

H i s vi sit to the K r i m ea w as a s ubject of j oyful

expectati on before i t took place ; an d the m ild an d
co n ciliati n g m an n ers of this m ost powerfu l m o
n arch w on the hearts of the h um blest of h i s sub :

j e c t s : fe w there are w ho do n ot boast of havi n g

s ee n the E m peror an d n ot a fe w wh o had the

,

hon o ur to con verse with hi m D ivested of the .

parad e of state he travelled w ithou t an y m il i tary

,

escort an d w on or sec u red the con den ce of hi s

l
, ,

people by that he evi n c ed i n the m T
, .

I am glad to r
em a rk by a le t t er dat e d St Pe ter burgh
,
. s ,

M ay 2 st , 1 8 24, t

hat great cha ge s e p ok en f i t h o

n ar s o n e r

gan isati on of t h e s e n at e a d of t h e c ounc il of t h e e m p ire

n .

T New Russia , p.1 2 1 .

 P OPUL A T I ON OF TH E KRI MEA .

About hal f a ce n tu ry ago the K r i m e a could boast ,

of a pop ulatio n of hal f a m illio n of so u ls an d co u ld ,

bri n g an arm y of 40 000 or 5 0 000 m e n i n to the eld

, ,
.

It was the n of n o s m all i m portan ce partic u larly ,

on acco u n t of its pe n i n s u lar an d fro n t i er sit u atio n

b etween R u ss i a an d Tu rkey ; an i m por tan ce wh i ch

i t m ay agai n acqu ire i n the eve n t of war I n the .

year 1 7 7 8 after the treaty of peace was con cl u ded

,

betwee n the T urks an d the R u ssian s m ore than ,

3 00 0 Chri sti a n s Greeks an d A r m e n ian s who had

, , ,

been n atu ral ised i n the K r i m e a an d am o n g them ,

m an y m erchan ts an d artisa n s w ere tran sported

. ,

beyon d the Sea of A Z Op h an d for m ed the n e w colo ,

n ies of Nak t c h i va n an d R ostOf; betwee n the Don

an d the Ber da ; but the great e m igrat i o n of the

n atives took place betwee n the years 1 7 8 5 an d

1 7 8 8 after the co n qu est of the K r i m e a by th e

,

R u ss i an s Thou san ds an d te n s of thou san ds s old

.
, ,

the i r property for a trie an d departed to the ,

provin ces of Tu rkey espec i ally to An atolia an d

,

Ro m eli a O wi n g to the losses s u stai n ed d urin g the

l
.

i n trigu es of R u ss i a the ravages of the plagu e an d

, ,

the e m igrati on s above m e n ti on ed ; i n the year 1 7 93 ,

there w ere i n the K r i m e a on ly m ales an d ,

fem ales or a total of

, sou ls i n cl ud ,
a

i n g a fore i gn ers an d eve n the R u ssian forces : so

,

th at i n ab out tw e n ty years the T aur i da had l ost

, ,

of i ts i n habitan ts I n d eed the loss a m oun t

.
,
a

ed to m ore ; for Pallas has m ade an error i n his table ,

i n stati ng that i n 1 7 93 t he n um ber of m ale Tartar s

 l
34 6 CL A S S E S or T H E P O PUL A T I O N or T H E K R I M E A .

was whilst that of the fe m ales w as n o less

than an error of abo u t as the
m ales an d fe m ales were n early equ a .

Mr Re u illy has give n the followi n g as a corr ec t

.

ll
r eport of that c en s u s ; vi z that the K r i m e a c on .

l
t ai n e d sou ls a m on g who m were ,

Ma es . Fe m a e s.

Noble Tart ar s 570

Pri t f es s o l a c as se s 45 1 9 4 1 05
T rt r l b r r
a a a ou e s 495 2 0 5 02 80
Sl f differ t origi
av e s o en n 345 4 05
N g y t k
o a s a t A ap
en a n a 433 1 3593
B oh m i e T ig ii o Gip i
ans , s n , r s es 1 1 64 1 5 61
M r h t i t ow
e c an s f diff r t la e
n ns
,
o e en c ss s 1 7 80 1 048
B urg d w ork m e
e ss es an n 6220 5 346
P r
e s on s i ri
n se v c e 1 1 85 247
R i l d m ti
us s an s av e s , o es cs 1 10 1 16
R i lo i t of t h row
u ss an c o n s s e c n 4 861 3 3 97
C ol o i t t r pl t d by t h obility
n s s an s an e e n 1 98 7 1 67 2
C ol i t f t h Gr k f ith
on s s o e ee a 1 1 65 5 86
C orp f th K ak of t h Bl c k S
s o e oz s e a ea 5 8 03
Pri t es sf t h Chri ti
o r ligi
e p pl s an e on , or eo e at
89
t h d t th
ac e r i of t h h r h
o e se v c e e c u c es

D om ti of t h row a d th ir f m ilies
es cs e c n n e a 38 2

By a m ore correct cen s us of 1 8 00 the n um ber ,

of m ale Tartars a m o un ted to which

do ubled for the fe m ales m akes a total of ,

l
an d probably this was n ear the tr u th
, , .

I ca n n ot co n ceive u po n what fo u n dati on Hassel

i n 1 8 1 6 an d Cro m e i n 1 8 1 8 stated the pop ulation
, ,

of the K r i m e a at so u ls ; si n ce i n the y ear

1 89 1 the R u ssi an geographer Yab ovsk i i doe s
,

n ot m ake it higher tha n of w ho m

 CL A SS E S O F TH E P O PUL AT I O N OF TH E KR I M E A . 3 47

were said to be m ale Tartars a state m en t wh i c h

does n ot tally with an acco un t rece ive d fro m
a Tatar Secretary of the L an d Trib un al by ,

l
Mrs Holder n ess Accordi n g to hi m the pop u lation
. .

i n all a m o un ted to so uls of who m ,

w ere m ale Tartars F ro m these data we m ay.

,

con cl u de that the total pop ulation of the K r i m e a

does n ot exceed sou ls even i f we a l ow ,

or i n crease of pop u lation within the

l l
last fe w years .

O f the Tartar pop u latio n there are n ot above ,

600 n obles an d 5 000 priests with t heir fam i lies ;

, ,

of co u rse all th e r est m a be called peasan ts or

y
abo u rers w ho till the grou n d for their s uperiors
, ,

u pon the co n d i tio n s a r eady m e n tio n ed .

I have bee n m ore partic ular with respect to the

l
pop ulatio n of the Kr i m e a beca use this pe n i n su la is ,

likely to becom e the theatre of co n test sho uld w ar ,

take place betwee n Tu rkey j oi n ed by any of the ,

great powers of E u rope an d R u ssia ; an d espe , ,

c ia sho uld R u ssia beco m e a m ar i ti m e power

y , .

Acco rdi n g to Pallas the n obility an d the clergy ,

have al ways bee n held i n high con sideratio n b y

the Tartars of the K r i m e a ; an d so great w as
their i n u en ce at on e ti m e that they cou ld ofte n

l l
,

res i st the orders of the Khan an d cau se hi m to be ,

ll

d ep ose d . r

Nov ei she Z em eo
p i sani
y R os sn s k oi Im p erm
, vo . 11.

p . 1 74 .

r Pa
J
ll
as s Se c on d Tr av e s. vo . i .
p 76. .
 l
348 C H A R A C T ER O F TH E TA R T AR S . C O L O NI E S .

l
Mrs Holdern ess j ustly says that the Tatars of
. ,

the K r i m e a m ay be di vi ded i n to three classes : the

m a r z as or n oble m e n ; the mu as or pri ests ; an d
, ,

l
the peasan try : the latter payi ng great deferen ce to
both the form er The m u a i s co n sidered the.

head of every pari sh ; an d n othin g of con seq uen ce

t o the co m m un ity is un dertake n w i tho u t h i s co un
se . His la n d is plo ughed for hi m h i s corn s o wn ,

l
r eaped an d carr i ed ho m e ; an d i t i s seldo m that
,

the proprietor of the soil take s ti the of the

To the sam e m odest an d i n telligen t wri ter I am
i n debted for the followi n g re m arks r espect i n g t h e

f
na tives o the
L
e n i n su a 1
p .

The highest poin ts of excelle n ce i n the Tatar

c haracter are the i r sobr i ety an d cha sti ty for both ,

of which they are u n iversally r e m arkable an d

praiseworthy The Tatar law I have been told .

, ,
'

in cases of i n delity se n te n ces the offe n der to be ,

plac ed i n a grave dug for the p u rpose whe n the , ,

whole n eighbou rhood bei n g asse m bled fro m m a ny

versts ro un d eac h person presen t in gs a sto n e
, ,

an d the deli n q u e n t i s th u s sacr i ced to the r age of

o ffe n ded feeli n gs The Cri m Tatars however .

, ,

n ow livi n g u n de r the R u ss i an gover n m e n t an d ,

t
a Ne w R ussi a, p 2 1 8 . .

1 F or an ac c oun t of l i
t h e c o on e s i n Ne w R uss i
a, th e re ad e r
may p eru M s H older e ss s w ork i whic h i s u c c e s io
se r . n

, n , n s n,

h e tre t s of t h e R u sia G r us si s ) t h e Mal o R u si a s

s a
( e a t R s ns an ,
- s n

(L it tl R us ia s) t he Nog ay Tart ars t he Gre e k s t he G erm a s

e s n , , , n ,

t h e A rm e ia s a d t h e B ul g ari an s Vi de Ne w R uss i a p 1 07
n n , n . .
, .
 l
L I T ER A T U RE OF TH E T A R TA R S . 3 49

su bj ect to R u ssi an law s are n o lon ger able to e x e r

,

c i se their ow n c u sto m s an d th is am o n g the rest, , ,

has fa l en into dis use .

The act of diggi n g i n a sittin g posture is per ,

haps as good a speci m en as c an be give n of Tatar

,

i n d ustry It i s very us u al to see them (the Tatars )

.

l
h ewi n g woo d wi th pipes i n the i r m o uths an d p e r ,

for m i n g this do uble operatio n eve n i n m oderate ,

w eather wi th the additi o n al i n c u m bran ce of a

,

J
heavy pelisse r .

The followi n g observati on s r e ati n g to s ubj ects

l ittle n otice d by travellers were ki n dly c om m u ,

n i c at e d to m e by a ge n tle m an who d uri n g a ,

lon g r eside n ce i n the K r i m e a m ain tai n ed a c on ,

sta n t i n terc ou rse w i th the Tartars an d who was ,

fam i l i ar with their lan g u age c u sto m s an d m an n e rs , , .

The reader I th in k will agree with m e that they

, , ,

are very val uable I shall u se the form an d t h e

.

words of m y correspon de n t .

L i ter at ur e Th i s s ubj ect m ay Soon b e dis

.

c u ssed for i n fact there i s scarcely an y th in g

, , ,

am o n g the Tartars worthy the n a m e of literat u re .

There i s n ot on e livin g M ah om e dan a u thor i n the

K r i m e a an d whe n I have m e n ti o n ed th i s c i rc um
,

stan ce to the W n dzs they gave i t as thei r exc u se

,

that every th i n g w orthy of bein g wr itten is c on

t ai n e d i n the books already i n their han ds Thes e .

Ne w R ussia, &c p 243 . . .

1 I bid . p . 27 5 .
35 0 P OE T R Y A ND G E O GR A P H Y OF TH E T A R TAR S .

books are m ostly of a religi o u s n ature i f that epithet ,

m ay be applied to the heteroge n eo u s collectio n s of

l
fables lege n dary tales co m m e n ts on the Koran
, , ,

an d i n str u ction s as to the var i o u s articles of the

M ah om e dan creed an d their n u m erou s an d r i di c u

,

lo us cere m on ies O f books of tales they are i m m o

.

d e r at e y fo n d i n com m o n with other As i ati c n ation s

,
.

I n the library attached to the m osq u e of the khan s ,

at Bak t c hi se r ai t here are s om e sple n did A siatic

,

l
m an u scripts bu t they are o n ly u sed by the ef
'

, e n dzs ,

i n o r der to ascertai n or settle an y do ubt fu l poi n t

l
of M ah om e dan law .

l

P oetry There are a great m an y poe m s i n
circu ation I have m e t with a Tartar tran slati o n
.

of the G u listan of Haz Their poetry I s of a Very

.

ow character Tho ugh abo u n di n g with i m agery it

.
,

is very d ull an d li feless ; an d the sen se i s un r m y

sa c r g i ce a t o t he s oun d an d the clashi n g of the rhym e
, .

A s to so n gs they h ave m an y ; bu t the u se of the m

,

is con n ed to the com m on people They ar e .

am orou s an d ofte n very l i cen tio u s

, .

Ge og r ap hy O f this i n tere sti n g scie n ce the ,

Tartars are woefully ig n oran t T h e i d ea of thi s .

earth s bei n g an exte n ded plai n see m s to be c om
m on to all r u de n atio n s He n ce the elephan t of
.

the I n dian m ythology wh i ch is sai d t o rest on the

,

back of a tortoise an d to s upport the world on i t s

,

ow n . I n stead of an elephan t the Tartars believe ,

this very serviceable an i m al to be an O X on on e ,

'

horn of w h i ch rests the world ; an d lest any part ,

 ME D I C IN E OF TH E T AR TAR S . 35 1

l
of the story shou ld wan t its w on der we are told

that whe n the ox is fatig ued (as it m u st n atu rally

be ) by s u stain i n g the h uge b u rden on th e on e

l
h orn it r e m oves it to th e other ; an d th i s m otio n
, ,

we are fu rther told i s the real p r i m a m m obi e of

,

earthqu akes ! The e n di s i n the height of their ,

wi s do m r idic ule the doctri n e of the earth s revo
,

u t i on ; an d i n deed their prophet the m ai n pilla r

, , ,

l
of whose syste m is i n or a n ce see m s also to have
g ,

dreaded the very idea of s u ch a revol u tio n He .

'

hath created the heave n s with ou t visible pillars to

s u stain the m an d hath thrown on the earth moun
,

t ai n s r m y r oot e d t hat i t m ig ht n ot m ove wi t h

,

l

y ou . Koran ch xxxi , . .

M edi c i n e O f th i s the Tartars are also very

.

ig n oran t although there ar e n o less than fty shop

,

ke ep ers i n Bak t c hi se r ai who earn their s ubsiste n ce

, ,

l
i n part by the sale of a fe w si m ples The hea i n g art
, .

is practised by som e old wom e n co m m on ly calle d

K a r i H aki m or wo m e n doctors w h o are i n m u ch
, ,

l
rep ute an d whose sagacio u s advices are i m plicitly

l
,

followed Bu t the sovereig n c ure of a di seases is

.

the readin g of the Koran wh i ch is ge n erally per ,

form ed by the pri est ; thou gh as i n other co un tr i es , ,

he is seldo m called for w h ile a hope of ife re m ain s .

The poor pati e n t co m forts hi m se f with the r e e c

tion that shou ld this last remedy fail by rewardin g
, ,

the pri est w ell for his trou ble the m e rit of the c e ,

re m o n y will be counted to hi m i n the other w orld .

35 9

y

ll
PU B L I C

P a b i c S choo s
S C H OO L S

.
- In
the above table (v i de p
ou will observe m e n tio n m ade of three p u blic Ma

h om e dan schools These are attached to as m an y

'
.
OF TH E T A R TA R S .

m osqu es an d ar e c h i e y desig n ed for s u ch as h ave an

eye to the priesthoo d There are at an average on e .

, ,

h un dred scholars i n each They ge n erally atten d .

ll
d u ri n g the w in ter m on ths an d are r ecko n ed very ,

clever i f i n the cou rse of t e n or ftee n years th ey

, ,

be able to read the Koran with u e n cy an d acc u

l
racy As t othe m ean in g of this sacred book they
. ,

hold i t i m possible for an y m ortal fu ly to un derstan d

i t an d they r i d i c ule the very idea of a v er ba t ra n s
,

lation The full expositio n of on e word n ay of

.
, ,

on e letter say they wo u ld ,

m an y vol u m es an d
, ,

therefore the e n dis thi n k it cri m i n al to tran slate

thei r boasted Koran ver batim They choose on e .

sen te n ce or two as the starti n g poi n t of a lon g

, ,

lectu re which is l i ste n ed to w i th the greatest pos

,

s ible gravi ty an d atte n ti o n O n th i s accou n t .

scarcely hal f a dozen i n divid u als c an be foun d who

have an y i dea of the con ten ts of the book There .

are several s m aller schools called m eht a b w here , ,

l
childre n are i n iti ated i n to the k n owledge of the
alphabet an d the m echan i cal pron un c i ati o n of the
,

Koran O n e or two of these schools are taught by

.

fe m ales an d atte n ded by ch i ldre n of the sam e sex
, .

We were to d that the r i de by the sea coast from -

S udak to K a a was n ot worth the trouble ; bu t

'

had w e tak en Pallas an d Castel n au for our g ui d es ,

 l

TA R A K T AS H . S OIJ E-S U . 35 3

we shoul d have had m ore correct n oti o n s A c .

cordin g to the m the v alleys of Koos T ok uk , , ,

l

O ti n I s an d K ar adagh are well worthy of a v i si t
'

.
, ,

I n co n seq u e n ce of an agree m e n t with the Tar

tars we r etai n ed the horses we took fro m K utl ak

,

l
d uri n g ou r wa n der i ngs abou t S u dak and even ,

two versts on our way t o Sym p he r op o e by the ,

post road IVe chan ged h orses at Taraktash of

- .
,

whic h Pallas has gi ve n a view as well as of the ,

Co ok s co m b rock - *
The va l ey of Taraktash i s .

a n u m ber of versts i n le n gth an d a r i vulet of the ,

sam e n a m e ows thro ugh it It i s on e of those .

char m i n g spots of which descripti on c an on ly c on

ve
y a fa i n t idea Ge n tle elevati o n s ro u n d an d
.
,

co n ical hills an d ridges of m o un tai n s covered t o

,

their s um m its with woods an d br u shwood deco r ate ,

the sides of the valley w hile i ts e n ds are bo un ded

l
,

by high h i lls beh i n d wh i ch rise lofty cliffs an d

,

peaked m o u n tai n s I n the eve n i n g we cam e t o .

S ti nk su an estate which for m an y years has h

-
, , ,

lo n ged to Ad m iral M or dvi n of We had expected .

to have fou n d q u arter s i n a s m all ho use there be ,

lo n gin g to the steward but it was a r eady oc c u ,

l
p i ed by a visitor who s howed n o wish to share

his acco m m odatio n s with u s .

lla d eri
Pa Tar k t a h fr m T
s ook
ve s c om b d a s o a r a c, a c

s- , an

T h
as ro k ; a d t h dj i i g ridg of Br c i ro k has om
, a c n e a o n n e e c a c s e

re m bl c t o
se ok
an om b S lt
e K tti Gh rri Krim
a co

s -c . u an a - e

Gh rri i form d
e h w r th t T / im ply m e a a om b
n e u s, o e ve , a ar a c s ns c

an d Ta sh a s t on e .
1

V OL . I .
 l

35 4 S UII K -S U . E L B UZ L I .

oblige d to take up our qu arters i n the s m all ho u se

of on e of the Tartars wh i ch co n sisted of a s i n gle
,

O blo n g squ are apart m e n t i n wh i c h we wer e a

,

h uddled together u pon the c ushio n s an d pillows of

its i n m ates spread u po n th e cold clay oor This
, .

was on e of the m ost m i serable v illages we had

see n altho ugh i ts exterior appearan ce rather i n
,

d i c at e d s u periority .

l
Fro m Si i i I k Su we c on ti n ued ou r ro ute thro u gh

-

a n e vale a m id sce n ery rathe r bea uti ful than

, ,

gran d or s ubl im e I n on e place we re m arked a

.
,

ri dge of rock r un n i n g to w ard s the road with per ,

e n di c u ar sides like an i m m e n se wall an d i t s

p , ,

l
l
s u m m it so b roke n irreg ular an d i n de n ted that
, , ,

it m uch rese m bled a co ok s co m b Pallas descri bes - .

this ridge whic h r u n s from west t o east u n der an ,

lll
i n cl in ation of 5 0 towards the so u th We passe d

.

the village of E bu z i wh i ch is chiey r e m arkable

,

on acco u n t of its m osqu e an d m i n aret As i n the .

villages n ear S udak the h ou se s here h ave i n cli n ed

,

roofs Soon afte r leavin g E bu z i w e e m erged

.
,

fr o m the vale an d fro m the woody an d alpi n e

,

sce n ery of the K r i m e a A n e x t e n si ve p ai n lay

.

be fore u s ; bold rocks were se en at so m e dis

tan ce on the right an d on t he left to whic h we
, ,

tu rn ed the road as it were m arked the li n e of

, , ,

de m arcation betwee n an op en cham paign cou n

try an d n um ero u s woody dells bou n ded b y th e
, ,

m o un tai n s of the Kr im e a We s aw di f fere n t vi llage s

.

m e n ti on ed by Pallas and were str uc k by the

, ~
 TILLI N G . KA R A S S U B A Z AR . 35 5

Tartar m ethod of tilli n g the gro un d O n e m an .

held t he plo ugh while two of hi s fellows g ui d ed

,

six pair of oxe n an d b u ffaloes each pair at a

co n siderable distan ce fro m the other This ap .

:

l
e ar e d a very u nn ecessary nu m ber ; but we after
p

wards fo un d that the Tartars were sur p asse d by

the Georgian m o un tai n eers w ho e m ploy eight , ,

n in e an d eve n t e n pai r of oxe n an d ve m e n

'

, .
,

to g ui de a si n gle p o ugh As we approached K a

r as s ubaz a r s i tu ated on a plai n i ts n e appearan ce
, ,

i n d u ced u s to believe that it was a m u ch m ore

l
i m portan t town th an i n reality I n the s ub u rbs .
,

a num ber of very lo n g white washed low ho u se s -

h ave bee n erected wh i c h we fo un d were barracks

, ,

l l
an d n ear the m a reg i m e n t w as e n ca m ped i n the

elds Nu m ero u s m osqu es w ith the i r gracefu

.
,

m i n arets an d espec i ally on e w i th a do uble balco n y ;

,

the Christian ch u rches the ho u ses with the i r wh i te

washed pyram i d a ch i m n eys ; an i m m e n se cast e
looki ng edice called a khan an d the whole i n ter
m i xed wi th garde n s an d ador n e d wi th elegan t pop
lars rai sed expectati on s i f n ot of m agn i cen ce at
, , ,

l l
least of bea uty an d order wh i c h were altogethe r ,

fallac i o u s . No soo n er h ad we forded the r i ve r

K ar ass (B lack water ) than we e n tered n arr ow
-
, ,

w i n d in g ,i rregu lar d i rty an d m ean streets ex

, , ,

t r e m e y d i sg ur ed by th e ow walls of the c our ts

aro un d the hou ses .

Pa llas g i ve s a g ood i e wv of Kar ass ubaz ar .

A A 9
35 6 K A R A S S U B A Z AR . I TS C O MMER C E .

K ar assubaz ar occ upies a cen tral situati on i n the

Kr i m e a an d lies u po n the post road fro m Bak t c hi s e
,
-

r ai to Ka a an d to Kertch It is the great m art the

'

.
,

e m pori um of the K r i m e a espec i ally of fru it an d

, ,

win e The R u ssian m erchan ts co m e h i ther an d

.

m ake th eir p u rchases The Kri m apples are sold .

here by the gross an d are afterwards tran spor ted all

,

over the so u th an d eve n the n orth of R u ssia ; an d

,

they a r e sold at a high price both at Petersb u rgh

an d Moscow The wi n es are se n t to the ch ie f
.

govern m e n t town s a n d I s u ppose are the pri n cipal

, , ,

i ngredi e n ts e m ployed for the ad ulterati o n of foreign

w in es i n whic h the R u ss i an m erchan ts are n ot ex
,

c e e de d i f eq u alled by a n y set of m e n i n the habit

, ,

able globe The Jews are exten sively e m ployed i n

.

m aki n g wi n e The grapes bro ught fro m the fertile

.
,

valleys of the m o un tai n o u s districts of the pe n i n

l
s ula as well as fro m t he n eighbo u ri n g vin eyards
, ,

are sold to the m an d they con tri ve to m ake a ,

good an d p r otable tra de W e e n tered a n um .

ber of their wi n e cellars ; bu t i f we co uld n d n o

-

l
good wi n e we had n o reaso n t o c om p ai n of its
, , ,

price at three fo u r ve, an d six ro u bles a ve dr o of

, , ,

ft e en bottles The great error of all the Vi n tn ers

.

is that they sell the w i n es of the K r i m e a al m ost as

,

soon as m ade an d th u s it n ever gets ti me to show

its real qu alities A weekly m arket takes p a ce .
,

an d a great a nn u al fair is held at K ar assu baz ar

, .

Great ab u n dan ce of horses an d hor n ed cattle are

al ways to be fo un d for sale at this place .
 ll
F O R TR E SS L I K E AN I TS M A N U FA C T U R E S

I Ts -
KH . . 35 7

l
A m o n g the shops i n t he c e n t r e of the town i s a

large buildi n g exactly rese m bli n g an O d fortress

, ,

calle d a k han Its high walls a of w hi c h ar e p e n e

'

.
,

t r at e d by gates i n cl ude an O blo n g sq u are of C

'

, on ,

s id e r ab e size Its i n terior is occ upied by shops

.
,

m agaz i n es an d store roo m s an d was crowded with

,
-
,

v isitors a n d m ercha n ts w h o had co m e fro m great

,

distan ces to atte n d the fair wh i ch was abo ut to ,

take place A m o n g o t hers so m e of the m o un tain

.
,

tribes of the Cau cas u s gave u s an idea of the people

w hose co n n es we were soo n to reach Karass u .

baz ar i s or n am e n ted by abo u t twe n ty m osq u es a ,

'

Greek ch u rch a n e Ro m an Cathol i c ch u rc h

,

lately erected a R uss i an ch urc h an Ar m e n ian

, ,

ch u rch an d a Jewish syn agogu e Whe n Pallas

,
.

wrote it co n tai n ed abo u t a tho u san d pri vate dwell

,

i n gs inter m ixed with n u m ero u s s m all khan s an d

,

baths Coffee ho u ses abo u n d i n every street an d

.
-

l
lan e an d i n the m the coffee i s prepare d i n the
,
,

O ri e n tal m an n er ; i t i s q ui te th i ck whe n u se d ,

an d n o crea m is g i ve n w i th i t There are n um e .

.

r o u s shops here an d t h ere i n w hi ch we fo u n d ,

le m on s an d ora nges i n ple n ty K ar assubaz r a s o .

con tai n s m an y tan n er i es can dl e an d soap m an ufac

,

tories an d tile work s ; for the greatest par t of the

,
-

hou ses here are b uilt of sun -dri ed bricks have ,

slopi n g roofs and are covered with tiles Thi s

, .

tow n has lon g b e e n fa m ed for its m an ufacture of

r e d an d yellow m orocco an d n ot witho ut reason

, ;
as i t i s of a very s uper i or q ual i ty bei ng soft an d ,

A A 3
35 8 , P O PUL A T I O N . T R IN I T Y SUNDAY .

pl ian t l ik e Silk an d at t he sam e ti m e th i ck a n d

,

s tro n g
(

Pallas esti m ated the xe d m ale p op u lat i o n of

K ar assubaz ar at abo u t 1 5 00 n early 1 000 of w ho m ,

w ere Ta r t ars m ore tha n 8 00 Tal m u d J e ws ; as

m any Arm e n i an s on e th i rd of the m Catholics ;

.
,

1 00 Greeks ; an d a fe w R u ss i an s The n u m ber .

of fe m ales di d n ot exceed 1 0 00 H i s accou n t is .

n o t very clear ; bu t I s u ppose fro m his d ata , ,

,

l
that the total p op ulatio n di d n ot exceed 3 000 ; .

though Dr Clarke dr awi n g fr o m the sam e sou rce

. , .
,

c arried i t t o 3 7 00 n ot i n cl u di n g the troops of the

,

arr i so n or barracks already spoke n of The ge ne

g .

r a pop u lat i o n was t he n an d st i ll i s , form ed of ,

l
Tartar s Arm en ian s Greeks Italian s an d R u ss i an s
, , , , ,

who have their s eparate places of worsh ip In .

1 89 1 ,M r s H oldern ess s aid th e pop ulat i o n w as

.

3000 whic h w as too low

, T hi s tow n has n ow
.

n ear y 5 000 i n habitan ts .

l
It w as on Tri n ity S un day that W e m ade our rst
v isit to K ar assubaz ar an d accor di n g to the c u sto m
, ,

O f R u ssia the st r eets an d ho u ses we r e decora ted

,

with tree s an d owers ; a sight I sho u ld s uppose , ,

wh i ch co ud n ot be very agreeable t o the Tartars ,

l
an d whic h m i ght re m i n d the m of the i r s ubj ect i o n .

l
H ad the R u ss i an s o n ly orn am e n ted th eir ow n ho u ses ,

an d the n eighbo u rhood of the i r ow n ch u rc h they ,

would have acte d pr ud e n tly ; but th u s t o force a

r e i i o us c ust om u po n those of a n other faith i s at
g , ,

a ti m es a very qu esti o n able policy It was an ac t

.
.
 D EP OT OF ME D I C IN E S . A N E CD O T E . 35 9

of the police an d the pol i ce is n ot on ly e ffi c i en t

, ,

but o m n ipote n t i n R u ssia an d especially i n s m all

, ,

tow n s .

l
The Dep Ot of m edici n es for the ge n eral u se of ,

the K r i m e a was tran sported fro m Ye n ikal e to

,

K ar ass ubaz ar i n the year 1 7 96 , I t has bee n .

hastily asserted by so m e trav eller s i n cl udi n g Dr , .

Clarke that there was n ot a si n g e physician i n the

,

l
K r i m e a ; but ever si n ce the R u ssian s t ook p os
sessio n of th i s pe n i n s ula m edical m e n attached , ,

to the arm y have resided i n di e r e n t parts an d

'

, ,

m ore were n ot wa n ted as we well k n ow that the ,

Tartars requ ire i ttle ass i stan ce fro m the m edical

art Castel n au relates a story so extraordin ary
.
,

that the reader m ay poss i bly doubt h i s acc u racy .

Th e c i rc um stan ce occ urred at K ar assubaz r .

I shall n e v e r for ge t says he that wishi ng , ,

for a gra in of em et i c t ar tar I was obliged t o wait ,

l
S i x ho u rs whe n seve n or eight perso n s m an y of
, ,

the m w i th swords at the i r s i des cam e wi tho u t hav , ,

i n g b ee n requ i red i n order to ad mi n i ster i t, Phy .

si c i an s s u rgeo n s a n d apot h ecar ies lled m y cham

, ,

l
ber It was i m poss ib e to avoid la ughi n g These
. .

ge n tle m en a little out of co un te n an ce regai n ed

, ,

the door ; bu t their i m age w ill n ot be so soon

l
e fface d a n d still less so the di sco urses which they
,

held r especti n g m y disease altho ugh I com p ai n ed ,

of n o i n dispos i tio n The e m eti c tartar was for the

.

c oach m an .

Thus i t w oul d appear fro m on e trave l er that , ,

A A 4
 l
3 60 ME D I C A L ST AFF I N R U S SI A .
C EME T ER I E S .

we w ere i n dan ger of dyi ng i n th e K r i m e a fr om

'

the wan t of m edical assista n ce and fro m the , ,

other of bei n g grea t y i n co n ve n ie n ced by i ts ex

,

cess .

At prese n t thro ughou t the R ussian e m pire

, ,

every gover n m en t has an up r dva w hich m ay be ,

l
l
called its c i vi l m e di cal staff, an d co n sists of an
i n s pector an operator an d an acc ou che u r ; an d
, ,

every distri ct i n every govern m e n t has a s u rgeo n .

All t he s u rgeo n s are s ubj ect to t he up r aivas an d ,

they to th e ch i ef of the M e d ica Ci vi Dep ar tm e nt ,

l
at Petersb u rgh ; so that tho ugh i n m an y places , ,

there still be a d ecie n cy of m edical m e n this is n ot ,

the fau lt of govern me n t bu t is to be attri b u ted to

,

the widely spread pop u latio n

- Besides all th e .
,

arm y practit i o n ers reg ularly exercise their ta e n ts ,

i n t h e vic in i ty of th ei r statio n s an d ofte n m ake ,

Co n s i derable s u m s of m o n ey fr om this i n c i d e n tal

practi ce .

We had r e m arked the dil apidated state of the

ce m eteri es of the Tartars i n di ffere n t places as ,

well as at K ar assubaz ar ; an d the cau tio u s Pallas ,

wh ile he dared n ot show his i n dign ati o n at t he

sacri legio u s v i olati on of these san ct uari es by the
c on ue r or s
q o f t he K r i m e a expla i n s the reaso,n O f

their ru in o u s s tate The R u ssian s says he
.

, ,

si n ce they have had possessio n of the T aur i da ,

re m ove the hewn sto n es acc u m u lated i n the vast

,

ce m eteri es of the Tartars i n order to b uild p ublic ,

e dices or ho u ses i n all the tow n s

, , an d espec i ally ,
 DES O LATI ON 3 6]

OF TH E KR I M EA .

at K ar assubaz ar Had he adde d What p r o .

,

fan at i on ! he wo u ld have lost his situ atio n as pro t

fe ss or ; but had he said that the R u ss i a n s a n n ihil

, ,

ated what all other n ati o n s respected wi th holy

awe an d approached wi th r evere n ce
, the m o n u
m e n t s of the dead h e m ight have bee n se n t t o ,

breathe the free ai r of S i beria i n stead of e n di n g ,

h i s days i n the K r i m e a
,
Tho ug h his m i n d was .

fette r ed i t is evi d e n t that Pallas w i shed to speak

,

tru th an d o fte n does so i n a trai n of se n te n ces

, ,

which develop his thoughts tho ugh h e leaves the ,

l
reader to m ake the i n fere n ce ; an d th i s at ti m es he , ,

acco m plishes i n ge n io usly A n exam ple we have .

n ow b efore u s I m m ediately after the above

.

q uotat i o n he i n for m s u s that l i m esto n e t for b u ild

,

i n g an d ou t of which col um n s are c ut lies a

, ,

ro u n d K ar ass ubaz ar The reader of co u rse de .

, ,
.

m an ds Why d i d n ot the R u ssia n s go to the q u ar

,

ries for m ateri als an d leave the to m b sto n es of ,

-

t he Tartars un to u ched ?

We have heard m uch of t he forbearan ce ki n d ,

n ess a n d toleratio n of R u ssia t owards her co n q u ered

,

provi n ce s an d she ofte n de s erves that praise bu t

, ,

ass u redly for m an y years the Tartars were treated

, ,

with m uch severi ty which led to great e m igration , .

They have also su ffered the m ost v iole n t i n s ults

their m osqu es their m i n arets the i r palaces thei r
, , ,

baths the i r water con d u its their fo un tai n s an d

,
-
, ,

eve n their to m bs have bee n throw n dow n r ui n e d , , ,

an d rased I hear tily j oi n ed i n the n oble i n dig

.
 l
3 69 A N E CD O T E . D RI VE IN T E L EGA S .

n atio n an d ge n ero u s feeli n g every where show n by

, ,

Clarke whe n these sce n es of d estr u ctio n an d a

, ,

m ost total a n n ihilatio n prese n ted the m selves .

There are n o good i n n s at K ar assubaz ar an d we ,

got p ossession of so m e ro om s i n a private ho u se ;

l
but n obody wo u ld u n dertake to m ake a di n n er for ,

u s a c i rc u m sta n ce w h i ch greatly excited ou r

,

s u rpri se At le n gth an i n divid u al to w ho m we had

.
,

se n t ret ur n ed an an swer that If we wer e n ot R us

, ,

s i an s he w ou d m a k e us a g ood d i nn e r
,
a n d the ,

b u sin ess was easily a r ran ged O n de m an di n g an .

explan ati o n of this c u ri o u s an swer i t was replied , ,

that the R u ss i an s Often t ake p ossess i o n of room s ,

di n e dri n k coffee an d tea an d call for wi n e &c at

, , , .

l
pleas u re ; an d i n stead of p ayi n g a b ill gi ve any
, ,

trii n g su m they please an d depart There i s n o

.
,

do ubt of th i s tru th an d s u ch a practice prevails

,

thro u gho u t the R u ss i an do m i n i on s Man y O f the .

r i cher n obles a n d of the high er c asse s of ofcers

, ,

wo uld sp urn at s u ch con d u ct ; but m ost of the

lowe r ran ks of the ar i stocracy an d of the m il i ,

tary do n ot hes i tate a m om e n t abo u t t r i e s of

,

l l
this kin d .

I n stead of co n tin u in g ou r j o u rn ey fro m Karas

subaz a r on horseback ou r party agreed to ro
, p

l
c e e d i n the l i ghtest an d m ost co m m o n v eh i cles i n

R u ssi a te eg as or sm all fo u r-wheeled carts s o as
, , ,

to have an i dea of R u ss i an travellin g L eavi n g

.
.

ou r se r van ts to follow w i th ou r u ggage w e s e t of f .

,

i n three t e g as accor d i n gly and e w at the r ate ,

 l
D RIV E IN

T E L EGA S . 3 63

of twe n ty versts (th i rtee n m iles at least ) p er h o u r

to Sy m p he r op o e the ti m e for chan gi n g the horses
,

on ce n ot i n cl u ded We had previo u sly arran ged

.

s o m e st r aw an d pillows to break the j olts as well as ,

straps to hold by for greater sec u ri ty The road was

, .
,

for the m ost part level an d excelle n t so that we

, ,

l
rarely ceased fro m a full gallop The vi gn ette to .

the rst chapter gives an excelle n t i dea of t he m an

n e r i n wh i ch we proceeded The R u ssian d r ivers .

e n tered i n to th e spir i t of co n test an d a regu lar ,

l

t e eg a race was the co n sequ e n ce They cared for .

n o dan ger ; but like m ost of thei r co m rades to ,

u s e a v u lgar phrase they drove thro ugh thick

,

an d th i n. A fter desce n di n g a h ill n ear Z ui sk aya ,

as ra p i dly as possible we d ashed i n to a riv u e t an d

, ,

l ll
crossed i t at fu ll spee d T he sight of th e s tream.

had i n sp i red u s wi th fear as it w as i m possible t o ,

stop the horses or eve n t o check their progress

, .

We s e i zed hold Of the straps but n otwithstan d in g ,

a o u r e fforts
, we were tossed i n to the ai r by j olts
on the ba n ks of the river an d were n early throw n
,

over the sides of the t e eg a s L u cki y we escaped .
,

t h e d an ge r witho u t any other i nj u ry than so m e

t

S ligh t co n t u s i o n s a n d a good wett in g .

The coun try thro ugh wh i ch we passed was v a

r i e at e d w i th plai n s valleys a n d ge n tle ele v atio n s ;
g , ,

an d a great part of it was past u re lan d We m e t .

n u m ero u s basket work car ts - s o m e on two oth er s , ,

on fo ur wheels pr ocee di n g t o the app r oa c h i n g fai r

,

at K arassubaz ar .
3 64 T H U N D ER -S T ORM AT S YM P H E R O PO L E .

We had n ow pass ed ro u n d the T c hati r Dagh -

,

a n d re m arked t hat wit h a trii n g variatio n it

, , ,

m ai n tai n ed the sam e appeara n ce on every side .

Wi th what d iffere n t eyes has th i s si n g ularly

shaped m oun t ai n b e e n Viewed by d iffere n t n ati on s

l
an d h ow pla i n ly have t hey betoke n ed their several

habits i n the n am es w hic h they have chose n t o

afx to i t ! The Greeks called i t Table Mou n tai n

l
the Tatars Te n t Mo untai n the Cossacks Saddle
, ,

M o u n tai n ; bu t an E n gl i sh m a n at Sevastopol to d

a frie n d of m i n e that he co n sidered it as rese m

,

bli n g n oth i n g so m u c h as a s i rlo i n of beef .

We re m ai n ed t w o days at Sym p he r op o e an d ,

wished to asce n d the T c hati r -Dagh but the weather

proved extre m ely un favo urable an d agai n baffled ,

our plan s . While we were at d i n n er on the 99 d ,

l
May a vi ole n t th un d e r storm acco m pan i ed with a
,
-
,

heavy shower an d followed by large hail som e

, ,

what su rpri sed u s at the seaso n of t he year i n su c h

, ,

a warm cli m ate .

l
L eav i n g Sym p h e r op o e late i n the eve n i n g of
the 9 3 d May we retraced our r o ute to Karass u
,

l
l
baz r d u r i n g t he n ight lodged i n our carr i ages the
, ,

co m for t of wh i ch we w ere m ore sen s ible of after

t h e t e eg a dr i ve We co n ti n u ed ou r j o u rn ey fi o m
t he n ce to K affa by the post-road which O ffe r s
, ,

i tt e v ar i e ty It i s ge n erally level or has o n ly v ery

/
.
,

slight elevati o n s w i th ran ges of h i ll s on both s i des

, .

Ne w R ussi a, p . 31 2 .
 KA

,
PP A .
ANE C D O TE

The pro fusio n of Sp i r e a ip en d u a an d S a vi a A us

t r i ac a i n these districts was re m arkable

plan ts were the chie f or n a m e n ts of the elds

These
.

,
lll
- AN C IEN T

,
MOS QU E

.
. 3 65

So m e an cie n t sq u are towers i n the distan ce warn ed

us o f our approach to K affa As we e n tered the .

t own a pyra m id s u rro u n ded by trees an d by a low

, , ,

bal u st r ade i n d u ced us to stop an d ask what m on u

,

m e n t i t was We were an swere d that i t was a

.

f ou n t a i n a n d n ot a
, m o n u m e n t : bu t it was a

mn ta in wi t hout wa t er The tru th i s that Mr .

, .

willi n g to assist the i n habitan ts i n recove r i n g th e

l
lost spri n gs had this pyra m i d erected an d they are
, ,

l
n ow searchi n g for the water This is really p u tti n g .

the c art before the horse n o u n co m m on occ u rre n ce ,

wi th the R u ssian s .

A S we rode alon g a be aut ifii bay we passed a ,

bou e va r d an d were i n for m ed that the t w o m ost

,

re m arkable ed i ces n early oppos i te it were the , ,

Tr ib u n als an d the Post oi c e We were well

,
e
.

acco m m odated at Kaffa i n an i n n kept by a Fre n ch ,

m an who proved hi m sel f an excelle n t cook

, In .

the sam e squ are with our lodgi ngs we exam i n ed ,

an an cie n t m osqu e covered by a large bu t low

, , ,

c upola wh i ch we fo u n d w as n ow con verted i n to a

,

Ro m an Catholic chapel althou gh the badge of M a

l
:
,

h om e d ani sm the cresce n t ri si n g over three arches

, ,

c u t i n the s to n e still proclai m ed its form er appro

,

r i at i on O n the top of its chie f or n am e n t the

p .
,

m i n ar e t fr o m w hi c h t he m oh a was wo n t v e ti m es
, , g
, ,

a da to s u m m on the M ahom e d an s to thei r d ut

y
-
,
y ,
3 66 A PP E A R A N C E

l
OF K AFFA

are n ow s uspe n ded so m e s m all be l s wh ose peals

asse m ble the Catholic Christian s to m ass
.
I TS

,
BA Y

.
.

ll
I had peru sed vario u s acco u n ts of K affa an d

re m e m bered the an cie n t sple n do u r m agn it u de a n d , ,

i m portan ce of Theodosia while overlook i n g the

,

place from the m in aret j u st m e n tio n ed This .

boasted town L i tt e Con st an t i n op e n ow oc c u

pies a s m all level space betwee n the bay an d a se m i

c ircle of h ills .It con tai n s bu t fe w s treets an d ,

s carcely an y of the m are reg ular O n every side . .

i n n u m erable r u i n s of form er edices prese n t the m

selves an d the p ublic b ui ldi n gs erected b y the
,

l
crown on ly see m ed like a fe w rays of light b u rst
,

i n g thr ough a black clo u d t o m ake u s m ore se n

,

s ible of the h u m il i ati n g co n trast of the prese n t;

with the K affa of other days Scarcely a gar de n .

,

or a green e af or a tree was t o be s ee n withi n the

, ,

walls T he gras s an d wild owers an d w eeds

.
, , ,

'

whose gay colou rs had e n li ve n ed the place i n the

s pri n g, were alrea dy dr i e d u p an d wi thered ; an d t he

m o u n tai n s steri le as i m agi n ati o n c an g u re risi ng

, ,

i n a m ph i theatre see m ed t o r eect a m aj esti c glo om

,

over the wh ole town w h i c h w as n ot a l i ttle i n

,

creased by the exte n s i ve r uin ed walls an d towers

whic h form ed its an c i e n t forticati o n The eye .

t u rn ed w i th pleas u re fro m the co n te m plation of th i s

dreary scen e to the beautifu l bay of Theod os i a,
whose n ow al m ost u n tro ubled waters were on ce
covered wi th eets of ves sels w he n the to w n c on
,

t ai n e d inhab i tan ts w i th in i ts walls an d w i th , ,

.
 D E S C RI P T I O N OF K AFFA . 3 67

t he s ub urbs abo ut , K affa W as a n ci

l
e n tly n am ed A r dan da or th e town of the seve n

l
gods Tu sha T e u dosi e an d The odosi e t D uri n g
, , , .

its period of greatest prosperity u n der the Ge n oese , ,

it was oft e n design ated Kri m Stam b ul or Co n sta n ,

t i n O p e of the K r i m e a ; an d eve n at this day t h e , ,

Tartars so m eti m es n o m i n ate it Kutch u k Stam b u ,

or L ittle Co nstan ti n ople .

F or a partic u lar descripti o n of a n c i e n t K affa 1 ,

refer the reader to the works of Pallas Se st r e n e vi c z ,

de Bohuj z Clarke an d Castel n au i n whic h h e

, ,

will n d the qu estio n am ply disc ussed whether ,

this town i s b u ilt u po n the r u in s of an cien t

Theodosia .

l
Accord in g t o an accou n t rece i ve d by Mr H eber .
,

prev i o u s to the co n qu est of the K r i m e a K affa ,

co n sisted of ho uses a n u m ber which bears ,

the air O f c t i on It i s certai n however that i t was

.
, ,

a p ace of con siderable s i ze m agn ice n ce and , ,

prosperi ty an d that the con qu est proved i ts ru i n

,
.

The work of destru cti on an d desolation so well ,

depicted by Clarke had n ot escaped the n otice of ,

l
Pallas We are i n form ed by th i s au thor that
.
,

l
u n der the Ge n oese K affa w as a m ost agreeable

l
,

Se e Clark e s
Tr ave p 444
s, . .

1
~

L H i s t oir e T ri
d e a au d e , I n t r oduc t i on , p 1 9 L H i st oi r e ,
. .

Nouv ell e i li p l r

de a R uss e , v o 904. M r s H o de n e ss s Ne w
. . . .

R u ss i p 1 36
a, . .

1; Mr H eber .

r i
s Obse vat on s on Cl rk w ork a

e s , in n o es ,t p . 444,
445 , 45 4, an d 5 40 . a e highly in t e re sti ng
r .
3 68 P O PUL A T I O N OF KA PP A .

tow n an d the m ost favou rable on e i n the T au r i da

,

for co m m erce ; that i t was e n ri c h ed by trade

u n der the do m i n atio n of t he Tartar pr i n ces ; an d

th at i t s n ative pop u latio n was a ug m e n ted by Ar

m e n i an s an d Greeks But h e als o tells u s that.
,

S i n ce the R u s s ian s beca m e m ast ers of the K r i m e a ,

the war with the T u rks an d the subsequ e n t e m i ,

r at i on both of n atives an d fore ig n ers had s o de

g ,

pop ulated K affa that wi th a fe w excepti o n s it pre

, , ,

se n ted n oth in g bu t an e n orm o u s m ass of r u i n s He .

ve n tu red n ot to ad d that th e Tartars were n o lon g

,

er perm itted t o dwell i n m ariti m e tow n s of whic h

'

K affa was the chie f f a m eas u re whic h cau sed the ,

said e m igratio n ; or that t he town the n beca m e the

r e siden ce of Greeks Ar m e n ian s Cathol i cs Jews , , , ,

an d of the R u ssian au thoriti es as well as of a R u ss i an ,

garriso n I n the year 1 7 8 0 i t i s stated by Clarke

.
, , ,

that K affa had a pop ulati o n of on ly fty fam ilies I .

To th e plag u e i n 1 8 1 9 three tho u san d perso n s fell

, ,

a s acrice ; the hou ses of co u rse we re depop ulate d , , ,

an d bot h the m ea n s an d the spiri t for co m m erce

were n early ann ihilated .

Accordi n g to the n ew est statisti cal m ap O f the

K r i m e a the n u m ber of ho u ses i n K affa a m o u n ts to
,

7 98 i n which val u ati on every sun dried brick bu t

, ,
-
,

lll
an d every clay co v ered hovel m ust be di g n i ed
-
,

with the n ame of h o u se .

lla
Vi e w K affa
~

S e e Pa s s of .

J
i
r V de Cas t e n au s Nouv e le R uss i iii p 261
e, vo . . . . n ot e .

1 Tr l p
av e s , . 445 . Ne w R u sia p 1 36

s , . .
 l
P O PUL A T I O N . Q U A R A N T I NE . 3 69

Mrs Holdern ess stated the pop ulati on of K affa

.

at 3 000 so u ls whic h i s probably correct

,
Ge , , .

n er a there res i de i n i t a fe w n at i ves of Italy

y , ,

Fran ce Germ an y an d E n glan d We had letters

, , .

for a co u n try m an bu t on e n qu iry we fou n d that , ,

h e had l ately died .

I n 1 8 93 Mrs Holdern ess says

, that the traf
.
,

c of K affa is revi vi n g an d its pop u latio n rap i dly ,

i n creasi n g i s un qu esti o n able f ; an d her V i e w of
,

thi s tow n at the e n d of her octavo vol um e has an

, ,

i m posi n g appearan ce ; but I fear i t i s a deceitful , ,

on e . The b u ildi n gs exist bu t m ost of the m are ,

desert an d forlor n The sam e au thor i n form s u s .

that i n th e year 1 8 9 0 n o less than fty hou ses w ere ,

b ui lt at K affa an d that at th i s ti m e it co n tain ed

,

5 0 00 i n habita n ts ; an d she ow n s that She had

for m erly u n derrated it at 3 000 so u ls O n th i s .

poi n t I have stro n g reaso n s to be scepti cal ; bu t I

d o n ot wis h to be u n gallan t an d there fore I S hall , , ,

be s i le n t .

Mrs Holdern ess ad m its ho w ever that the trade

.
, ,

of K af fa i s very i n co n siderable havm g t w o for m i d ,

able rivals i n O d essa an d T gan r ogi t

Mr Gav sk ii the civi l govern or gave u s every
.
,
-
,

i n form ation an d accom pan ied u s to exam in e th e

,

m ost re m arkable i n stitu tio n n ow at K affa the qua ,

r an ti n e It was lately r e n ewed un der the sup e r i n

.
,

Not e s r lati g t o th Crim T rt r

e n e a a s, 1 82 1 .

1 Ne w R s ia p 1 37
u s , 1: I bid p
. . . . 1 37 .

V OL . I . B B
37 0 TH E Q U A R A N T I NE AT K APPA .

director Mr v on Deh n an d
t e n de n c e o f i t s for m er , .
,

i s on e of the best establish m en ts of the ki n d i n the , ,

R ussian do m i n i on s The exte n s ive m agazi n es ; the

.

hou ses for the acco m m odation Of person s w h o

arri ve from foreig n coun tri es ; an d the roo m s for
co m m un i catio n s at a d i stan ce with thei r frie n ds
, , ,

are all as they s ho uld be i n goo d repai r D iffere n t

, , .

fo u n tai n s which po u r dow n the i r clear water fr om

,

the h ills have bee n lately repaired an d yield an

, ,

ab u n dan t s upply of this n ecessary arti cle O n the .

largest an d m ost m agn ice n t fo u n tai n there is a

Tartar i n scriptio n an n o u n ci n g (as I was told ) that
,

i t was erected at the expe n se of a lady The fe w .

person s whom we fo un d here i n quaran tin e were

m ostly Tartars who had bee n on a pilgri m age to
,

Mecca an d had em barked i n A n atolia

, .

By the erecti o n of the q u aran tin e ; the proj ected

n e w c u sto m ho u se a n d treas u ry ; the repair o f the
-
,

p ubl i c foun tain s ; an d th e re n ewal of w at e r con du its -

,

it appears that the govern m e n t wishes to r e establish -

K affa B ut it m ight b e said as ye t that a well

.

, ,

arran ged qu aran tin e was scarcely of an y u se ;

that the te m porary c u stom h ou se had al m ost no -

c u sto m t o rece i ve ; an d that the treas u ry was n early

e m pty The prospe r i ty of O d essa an d of Tagan rog
.
,

the dist urbed state of poli tical affa irs betwee n

Tu rkey an d R u ssia an d th e i m politic m eas u res ,

of the crow n for m an y years a ft er it had the

,

com m an d of the K r i m e a have all co n tri b uted

. .
,
,

to the down fall of K affa .

 l
C O MMER C E O F K AFF A J
M
M U SE U M 37 1

l
.

Accordi n g t O T O Ok e t he za m oun t of exp ortatio n

'

,
.

fro m K affa i n the year 1 7 93 was '

but that of i m portati on i s n ot m e n t i on e d T he fo .

owi n g table re c eived from t the best au thority

, ,

s h ows the state of co m m erce i n 1 8 1 7 an d 1 8 1 8

l
two of the m ost our i shi ngye ar s K affa has ever see n ,

an d si n c e whic h t r ad e has i n n i tely d i m i n i s h e d

'

'

Ba f the Comm er ce f Theodos i a , K a , i n the Year s

'

a n ce o o or

1 81 7 a nd 1 8 1 8 .

1 81 7 . I m p or tat i on R . E x p or tat i on , R .

Bl a an c e ,

R . 50

1 81 8 . I m p ort ati on, R .

R .

1 817 . E x p or tati on of Com .

W h e at , R . Pr i ce of t he Tc he tver t, R 2 5 to 8 2
.

B ly
ar e , D i tt o, d it t o, 1 0 to 1 5
R ye , Ditt o, di t t o, 1 3 to 1 7
M ai z e , D i tt o, di t t o, 1 2 to 1 4

R .

Pr i ce of the T c he tve r t , R . 17
Di t t o, di t t o, 8
Di tto, di tt o, 9
Di tto of th e F ood, 2 to

R .

W e were c on d u cted to a s m all low apartm en t

l
, ,

n ot far fro m our which the pom po u s n a m e

inn, on

of M u seu m i s bestowed I t w as beg un by M r . .

T ooke s Vie w
of t he R uss ia
n Em p ire , vo . ii i . p . 63 1 .

B B 9
 l M U SEU M . C O IN S .

l
Br on vsk n , the form er n atc ha nik or c hi ef of K affa , .

It co n tai n s a fe w m edals n ot worthy of n oti ce ; a

,

l
fe w tri i n g m i n er al s ; an d som e r e m ai n s of an
t i q ui ty from a m o n g the r u i n s of the to w n whic h ,

deserve atte n ti o n I n m y j ou rn a are espec i ally

.

m e n tion ed a n u m be r of broken u rn s an d va ses of

a sm a s i ze ; t w o u r ns of i m m e n se si ze be in g the ,

height of an or din ary m an ; som e m arble slabs ,

,

with Gr eek an d L ati n i n script i on s ; an d a fe w

s to n es , wit h Tar tar an d Arm e n i an I n scri ption s ;
all of whi c h exc i ted m y c uri os i ty But I had t o
. .

regret that m g t o the d eparture of our party

, ,

I had n ei ther ti m e t o exam i n e these s everal obj ects

m i n u tely n or to copy an y of the i n scriptio n s
, .

l
Som e futu re traveller an d an tiqu arian m ay n d

l
am u sem e n t an d i n for m ati o n w ithi n this so style d
m u se u m an d m ay n ot be s orry that I have p oi n ted i t
,

out to hi s n oti ce u n less the report be tr u e

, that i t ,

has been pi l aged " 4

Caste n au s ays i t i s v ery r e m arkable th at we d o

,

n ot m eet with an coi ns at Theodos i a an d that

y ,

the on ly on e kn own as pec uliar to this town i s ,

prese rved I n the i m peri al cab in et at Petersb urgh .

This au thor g i ves a gu re of i t O n on e side i s .

seen the h ead of a d iv i n ity ; an d on t he other a ,

l
cl ub w i th the lege n d O E TA t .

Ne w R ussia, p 1 38 . .

1 Nouvell e R u ssie , v o ii . . p . 210 .

 C HAP . IX .

D E P A R TU RE F R O M K APP A K E R TOH 1 T s P O P UL A T I O N . . .

A D M I R A L T Y PO R T R E ss A N T I Q U1 T I E s R E S E A R C H E S O F
. . .
-

M R D E B R OO K S M E M EN T OS O F M IT H R ID A T ES
. N E W P OR T .

A N D Q UA R A N T I N E N E w P L A N O E K E R T C H D E PA R T U R E
. . .

M I L IT A R Y EN C A M PM E N T Y E N I K A L E
'

I T S PO R TR E ss
. . .

D I SA P P O I N T M E N T RE TU RN T o K E R T C H
. SE C ON D D E P A R .

TU RE P A SS A GE O F T H E B O S P H OR U S
. T H E I S L A ND O F T A .

M AN P H A N A GO R I I C H U R O H A N TI QU I T I E S
.
- . P A SS I ON O F
. .

D ES T R UCTI ON T H E S T ONE O F T M I I T A R A K AN
. T H E T O WN

.

O F T A M AN TH E T C H ER N O M OR S K I I K O Z AK S T H E F OR C E S
. .

OF T A M AN C L A SS IC G R O UN D
. T UM UL I B UGH A S . . .

S EN N AYA PE R E P I S K A. D RE A R Y D R I V E

. D E C E PT I O N
'

. .

T E M R UK A R R I VA L A T K UR TCH AN S K A YA
. A VI S H K A .
'

O R O B SER V A T OR Y A N DR EE V S K O I RE D O UB T F O R T R E SS '

. .

ES . PI QU E T S D S C E N T O F T H E CI R C A SS I A NS
. E KO .

P IL . TC H R NO I PRO T OK K O PANS K AYA - A R R I V AL . .

B B 3
37 4 D E P A R T U RE F R O M K APPA . K ER T C H .

A T Y E K A T ER I NO D AR Q UA A N T I N A CI R C A SS I A N
.
TH E R E.

PR IN C E.H S UIT P RESEN

IS T S M A N UV R E OF TH C . (E ES E IR

C A SS I A NS P R I SON A Y E K A T ER I NO D A R IT S O
. T SS . F R TR E .

C A T H ED RA L CI R C A SS I A N P R I SONERS
. D ES C R IPTI ON O . F

Y E A T ER I NO D AR I
K

UL ATI N TH A T A M AN T H E
. T s PO P O . E .

TC HE N RM O K O o z A K RS D A R U
II KVI A G S TU s. EP T R E. LL E .

M UL 1 . _ TH E G R ER E N S K I I K O Z AK S . U S T L A B fN S K A YA .

W IL D A N T S S T AV R 0 PO L E RO GU ERY O P PO S T M AS T E R S
PL . .
- .

- N A D EJ D A E S H A G H 1 R V I W S A R R I V A L A T G EOR
E P

. E .

G I Ev s x S A IT H S A T O O N M OR T A L IT Y O F GO V ER NORS
. . .

C O U N T GO R S K I I I N T ER M ITT EN T E V E R S D ES C R I PTI ON O F
. E .
_

GEOR GI EV S K A RR I V A L A T T H E S C O TC H C O L O N Y K A R ASS
.
-
, .

H AVI N G been in form ed that

,
order for post , an

horses to Yekateri n od ar cou ld n ot be obtain ed at

Kertch we proc u red on e here ; an d after hav in g
, ,

s upped w i th the govern or we travelled over a ,

dreary road i n a n e s u m m er n ight an d arr i ved at

, ,

l
the latter town i n t he m orn i n g where we were , .

l
kin dly accom m odated w ith excelle n t apartm e n ts i n

l
the ho u se of Mo n s i e u r de Brii c k s I was n ot a .

little s u rprised to n d that this gen tlem an was a

descen dan t of a Scotch fam i y an d that h i s ,

real n a m e was on e of the m ost i l ustriou s i n the

an n a s ; of m co u n try His fa m ily alo n g with
y , .
,

m an y other s e m igrated to Fra n ce on acco u n t of

,

rebelliou s con d u ct where its n am e was C han ged ,

in to de Br uce ; an d i n R u ssra by a seco n d tran s , ,

form ation i t be c am e de Br ii c k s
, _ .

Kertch t he an cie n t Pan ti cap aeu m was fo un ded

, ,

by the Greeks above 9 000 years ago an d was long ,

a place of great i m portan ce u n der the kin gs of th e

Bosphor us Wh ile the Kr i m e a w as un der the i n
.
~
"
z
 K E R TC H . I T S P O PU L ATI ON . 375

l
ue n c e f t he
T urks they kept a stro n g garri so n i n
'

o
-
,

it an d a Pascha also had his res i de n ce here At

, .

l
the peace of 1 7 7 4 betwee n the Porte an d R u ss i a
, ,

K ertch an d Ye n i kal e were the on ly places i n the ,

w ho e pe n i n s u la w hich re m ai n ed i n possess i o n of
,

the latter The Tartars the n left Kertch an d i t fell

.
,

l

i n to the han ds of the Gr e eks At the ti m e O fPa as s .

an d Clarke s v i s i ts i t w as r e d u ced t o extre m e

wretched n ess Previ ou s to the occ upati on of the
.

l
K r i m e a by the R u ss i an s it does n ot appear t o have ,
.

bee n a place of great s i ze or of great pop u ati on ; ,

yet Cl arke i n on e place speaks of havi ng bee n

, ,

i n form e d that the R u ssi an s destroyed 5 000 hou ses ;

,

while i n a n other place he a u de s to on ly 5 00

, ,

l
havin g bee n levelled t o the earth an d beyon d
*
,

l l
qu estion the last estim ate w as correct I n 1 8 04
, .
,

the R u ssian geographer St c hk at of says th i s

town co n sisted of o n ly abou t a h u n dred m iserable
ho u ses I n 1 8 1 3 V sv o oj
. sk i i speaks of its p op u
,

latio n am o un tin g to que ques cen t ai nes de ma es

By t he n e w stati stical m ap of the K r i m e a it ,

c an n ow boast n o m ore than 1 5 4 ho us es an d i ts ,

l
pop ulati on does n ot exceed 300 or 400 so uls It .

is still a m iserable place an d co n tai ns a fe w paltr y ,

shops a m on g which with d ifc u lty we proc u red

, , ,

tea an d s ugar tho ugh it i s well s uppl i ed with ex

,

c e e n t bread bisc u it an d m acaro n i

, A few lately
, .
.

erected private hou ses have a l ively asp e ct am i d

Clark e s Travels p an d 433 form er number

, . . The ,

m ost lik e ly i s a t yp ographi c al e rror

, .

13 13 4
37 6 AD M I R A L T Y F O R TR E SS A N T I QU I TI E S

l
. . .

l
the ge n era l gloo m A good i d ea O f i t s p ubl i c .

ed i ces m ay be form ed by the q u estio n I p ut to a ,

ge n tle m an wh ile we were l ook in g dow n u pon the

,

l l l

town fro m Mithri dates hi l A lon g blacken ed .

lin e of b ui d in g by the se a coast attracted ou r ,

-
,

n otice whe n I de m an ded i f i t w as

, un e fa br i ue
q

de br i ques No s ai d he that i s the Ad m i , ,

ra ty .

Ge n oese fortr es s an d the an cie n t cathedra

T he ,

l l
s o am ply descr i bed by P a l as an d Clarke have bee n ,

lately repaired Aro un d the latter lay m an y p i eces

.

of cor n i ces capitals an d col um n s an d here we

, , ,

fo un d also the headless stat u e of a fe m ale of Her ,

c u e an size exec uted i n m arble the drapery of

, ,

w hich w as ex t re m ely bea u t ifu l .

Mr de Brii c k s con d u cted u s to A y n O bo or

.
,

the M on t d Or or th e to m b of M i thr i dat e S wh i ch
, ,

is well represen ted i n on e of Clarke s plates whe n ,

i n a m u ch m ore perfect state tha n it is n ow The .

sam e au thor has gi ve n a View of the t um u l i n ear

th i s town an d both he an d Pallas have e n tered in to
,

i m portan t historical details respectin g the m wh i c h

I shall n ot repeat M r de Br ii c k s havin g obtai n ed . .

leave fro m the govern m e n t pe n etrated i n to the ,

i n teri or of on e of these tum uli an d foun d i n i t an ,

Bri c k -k iln l i h is rd a app li d

n ot r
t h e t an s at on of t e se w o s, s e

i R u sia
n F o at ac h bri k w ork a e o e t w o o m ore
s . r e c - r n , ,
r

w oode he d of gre at le g th b e th whi h t he bri c k s a e

n s s n , en a c r

drie d b for be i g form e d i t a kil

e e The W hole e st ablish
n n o n.

me t i n all d ef b i
s c e d b
e i ue un a r e
g g s u r .
 l
RE S E A R C H E S . M E M E NT O S O F M I TH R I D A TE S . 3 77

ar ched e n tran ce an d r eg ular apart m e n ts i n w hich

, ,

were som e co i n s an d m ed a s H e sold the sto n es .

of the caver n i n order to de fray the expe n ses of

,

s i m i lar operati on s I n 1 8 1 7 t h e crown gran ted

.
,

hi m t he paltry su m of 5 00 r o u bles t o assist hi s ,

researches an d Cou n t R u m an t sof gave hi m as

,

m u c h for hi m sel f H e exa m in ed differe n t t um u li

. ,

which were co nstru cted i n a m ann e r si m ilar t o

that abov e n oticed an d thei r co n te n ts were als o
,

the sam e I n a fe w of the m he l ikewi se fo u n d

.

s o m e bo n es H e has m ade differe n t repor ts to th e

.

ll
govern m e n t on the s ubj ect of h i s di sc overi es an d ,

l
h as co m m un i cated var i ou s papers an d plan s to
the Societ y of Belles L ettres at Petersb u rgh i n ,

con sequ en ce of w h i ch he has bee n m ade on e of i t s

m e m bers .It i s to be hoped that they wi l be p u b

i sh e d i n the m e m o i rs of that society At pre se n t .

Mr de Br ii c k s is u n e m ployed an d n o on e i s a
.
,

l
lowe d t o m ake researches w itho u t perm iss i on .

At Kertc h we felt o u rselves on classi c gro un d ,

where t he n am e of M ith r i dates was assoc i ated wi th

l
n u m ero u s obj ects We wer e shown hi s tom b hi s
.
,

hi l his ar m ch air &c &c The h ill of Mithridate s

,
-
, . .

l
o verhan gs the tow n an d on i t s t o i s c ut out of
p ,

the s ol i d r ock an i m m e n se seat called M i thr i

, ,

d ates A r m-chai r NO m an of j u st fee i n gs c an
.

l
peru s e an acc ur ate acc oun t of the vi c i s si tu de s of

the ife an d of the d eath of the gr eat M i th r i date s,

,

wi th ou t he av i n g a s igh !
I n 1 7 93 (acc ord i n g t o Tooke ) the wh ol e e xp ort
at i on of Ke r tc h am ou n te d t o on ly 9960 r oub e s .
 l
37 8 P O R T, QUA R A N TI NE , A ND P L AN OF KER TCH .

l
It was a favo u rite idea of Pallas that a ge n eral ,
.

l
q u aran ti n e for the Sea of A z 0 p 1 sho uld be form ed
at this town an d be s upposed that the e m p i re
,

would gai n i n di ffere n t respects by s u ch an estab

i shm e n t partic ularly as a s ure mean s of g uaran
,

teei n g the i n terior provi n ces fro m the p ague ; of ~

econ o m i si n g the expen ses of the q u aran tin e at

Tagan rog an d elsewhere ; an d of facil itati n g export
ati o n Bu t he says th i s plan had always failed
.
,

becau se the r ui n of Tagan rog wo u ld be on e of

the con sequ e n ces of its adopti on an d m ean s had ,

always bee n take n to preve n t its exec uti on At .

len gth the govern m e n t see m d uly i m pressed wi th

the i m portan ce of Kertch both as a sea port an d ,
-
,

as a ge n eral qu aran ti n e Mr Scassi w h o i s a n ative

. .
,

l
of Fra n ce an d who has res i ded i n Circass i a i n t he
, ,
.

Cau casu s an d i n Georgi a an d i n other parts of th e

, ,

e m pire has bee n lately appo in ted the G u ardian of

,

the Co m m erce of Kertch Thi s i s qu i te bo m bastic
.
,

l
an d ti a R usse for it m ay be sai d that at the ti m e

of ou r visit there w as n o c om m erce t o gu ar d

,
.

The tow n of Kertch i s t o be r e b uilt upo n a

. . -

n e w an d r eg u lar la wh i ch w e s w an d i s to

p n a , ,

be s urro un ded by o n e bou evar d w hile an othe r ,

stretches toward the h ill of M i thri dates a s an or

!
,

n am e n t an d ge n eral pro m e n ad e ! The p ort i s to .

be i m proved an d a n e w q u aran ti n e u pon an excel

, ,

le n t plan is to be erected M r s v on Deh n of wh o m

, . .
,

I hav e spoke n at K affa was at Kertch wi th a

'

, .
,

view to s uper in ten d the erec ti on of the quarantin e , :

.
 D E P A R T URE . MILIT A R Y E N C A M P ME N T . 37 9

It is p roposed to establish co m m erce betwee n

Kertc h an d Circassia an d Georgia as well as , ,

with the DOn an d the vici n ity of the Sea of A z op h .

Mr Scass i hopes that this co m m erce will soon

.

be faci l i tated by the ai d of steam boats wh i ch are -

,

ll
to cross the Bosphoru s an d proceed to the Don ,

to Georgia to C i rcass i a an d to other parts on th e

, ,

coast of the Black Sea .

"
We had heard s u ch co n tradictory repor ts as to
t he di fc u ty or faci i ty of the passage of the Bos '

h that we were q u ite u n decided whether

'

or u s
p ,

we should atte m pt it or proceed fro m Kertch ,

ll
to Tagan rog an d fro m the n ce to the Cau cas u s
, .

This poi n t w a s at on ce deter m i n ed here an d the ,

m as ter of the port o r dered a gun boat to be pre - .

pared The carriages were e m barked at the adm i

.

ra t an d the servan ts bei n g with the m the vessel

y , ,

l l
set sail i n the n ight thou gh the wi n d was con tra ry
, .

O n t he fol o win g m orn in g she lay at an chor at the

d i stan ce Of six or seve n m iles fro m the shor e .

Acco m pan ied by Mr Scassi we se t ou t for Yeni .

,

l l
ka . We soon reached the s i te of t he p r o e c t e d '

qu aran ti n e by the s i de of a s m al bay n ear wh i ch

,
'

, .

are two foun tain s Here it was s upposed w as

.

s itu ated the an c i e n t Pan ti c ap mum ; an d the r ui n s

of an o d tower descr ibed by Pallas are st i l v i sible
, , .

W e soo n arrived at an en cam p m e n t of a c om

pan y of soldiers un der the c om m an d of a Major
-
,

L am b ert who c am e ou t an d co n du cted us to hi s

,
'

te n t ? Thi s ge n tl em an w as form erly an offi cer i n

'

c ;
3 80 Y E NIKA L E . I TS F OR TR E SS .

the g uards of Nap oleon an d lost h i s all for hi s ,

delity O n e cou ld n ot thi n k witho ut sym pathy

.
, ,

l
O f the fate of a m an who had form erly m oved i n

the great an d gay world n ow passi n g h i s days i n ,

this re m ote corn er of the globe We soon reached .

Ye n i kal e an d desce n d in g a h ill en tere d th is m i

, , ,

se r ab e tow n wh i ch con sists chiey of a row of

,

s hops by the se a side an d i s al m ost e n ti rel y peopled

-
,

wi th Greeks Its pop u lation doe s n ot exceed 3 00

. .

or 400 so uls an d the n u m ber of i t s ho u ses

, is
on ly n i n ety eight . S om e very n e look i n g w om e n
- -
,

wi th dark eyes an d black hair cam e out t o the ,

l l
doors an d stared at u s as we ram bled thro ugh t he

tow n The m ales are good-looki n g healthy m e n

. .

E ach pays an n u ally the s um of ve ro ubles t o the

crown an d they are obliged to tran sport all tra
,

ve er s s old i ers
, &c to Tai n an For th i s s er vic e
, . .

they are exe m pted from a ot her taxes Th ey are .

l
great shers an d h ave ab out e ighty passage an d
,

shi n g boats .

As we e n ter ed the fortress we exam in ed th e ,

fou ntai n of the sarcophagu s descr i bed by Pallas

an d C ar ke the latter of whom h as well repro

, .

sen ted i t i n a vig n ette

. .

To the am ple descripti on of the castle gi ven by ,

l l
Pall as I have n othi n g to add We din ed w i t h
, . :

the comm an dan t Ge n eral B ucholtz wh o tol d u s , , ,

that i t w as Ou t of the qu est i on to th ink Of passing

the B osphoru s as t he w in d w as c bntr ar y f an d
,
'
v

strong He a s o state d that i t som etim es b ew

'

.
,
 P A SS A GE O F TH E B O S PH O R U S . 38 1

three s i x an d e ight days i n the sam e di recti on ;

, ,

a n d that the passage w as always un certai n Co u n t .

l
L an gero n h ad on ce bee n detai n ed m an y days
h ere by a con trary wi n d be fore h e sailed for
, ,

Tam n ; an d I h ave bee n i n for m ed that Captai n

Jo n es was obliged t o r em ain t en days at Tam an ,

before he cou d cross t o Ye n i kal e i n the spri n g of ,

1 8 93 He n ce th e n ecess i ty an d the u ti lity of a

stea m -boat Un de r th e circ u m stan ces m e n tio n ed

.
,

we r et u rn ed to ou r qu ar ters at Kertch an d passed ,

the eve n i n g w ith Mr Scassi . .

E arly on the followi n g m orn i n g we learn ed that ,

the gu n boat h ad sai led the wi n d havin g chan ged

-
, .

Th e captai n of the port cou l d n ot gi ve u s a goo d

boat or we sho uld have sai led fro m Kertch to Ta
,

m an . We there fore, ret urn ed t o Ye n i kal e an d

, ,

were rece i ved by the g or odn i t chii or m ayo r of the ,

l l
tow n who m we had s een the preced i n g day an d
, ,

l
w ho well re m arked that his title had , s o m e s ou n d ,

bu t that he had n either a great ofce n or a great

reve n u e The gale was followed by a delight
.

fu cal m an d a s i x-oar e d boat w i th a p i o t co n veyed

, , ,

u s h a f across t h e Bosphoru s then a breeze sp r u n g

u an d o ur sai ls were u n fu r le d A ft er t w o ho ur s

l
p
,
.

an d a half s saili n g we lan ded at Ta m a
,
n a n d fo un d ,

t h e serva n ts an d carr i ages all s afe at a lodgi n g ,

provi de d by or ders of Colon el Babay dof Pallas s .

acco un t of the passage of the Bosphoru s i s likely t o

i n spir e travel e rs with fear but, except i n a stor m ,

w i th the Greeks an d th ei r excelle n t boats I Sho u ld ,

389 TH E I SL AN D OF T A M AN .

s uppose there is n ot the least dan ge r i n the u n der

taki n g But as we have already see n the traveller
.
, ,

m u st r un the chan ce of dete n ti o n whether he wi sh ,

to pass fro m Kertch to Tam an or from T ai n an ,

to Kertch .

l
Accor d in g t o for m er geographers w e were n ow
1 11 the terr i tori es of Asia bu t by the n e w di visi on , ,

of the m ode m s who have x e d t h e T r ek as the

,

n or t h e r n b oun d ar of this qu arter of the globe we

y ,

h ad sti ll so m e h un dred m iles to dri ve be for e e avi ng

E u rope It m ay n ot be m isplaced to gi ve the
. ,

r eader an acc u rate i d ea of the regio n we had

r eached be fore advan c i n g s o u th war d

, .

l
T he i slan d of Ta m an has s u c c ess ively born e t h e

n am es of M i n t an as Ada Tom i T am ata r c ha T m II
'

, , , ,

tarak an an d M at r ega Tam an i ts cap ital w as

, .
, ,

the an c i e n t Phan agor i a .

Tai n an though called a pe n i n s u a by so m e

,

a uthors i s dec i de dly an islan d as w i ll appear by

, ,

atte n tion to the followi n g re m arks The K u b an ,

the Hypan i s o f the Greeks on e of the largest r iver s ,

of the Cau ca su s has i t s ori g in i n t he h ighest m ou n

,
-

tai n i n th i s q uarter of t he globe the S hat or E lb o , ,

r us , an d form s the b ou n dary or fr o n tier bet w ee n , ,

.

the R u ssian e m p i re an d t h e Ca u c asi an m o un tai n s .

l
After a lo n g co u rse it gives off a br an c h n e ar K o ,
r

l l
.

]
'

p i , wh i ch i s called the T c h e r n,oi -P r ot ok an d.

ire d e T uride I ntroduc tion Hist oire de

,

H is t o a a .
, 2
p 6 . .

a Nouv ell R ussie o i p 205

e , v . . . .
w l T H E I SL

hich fa l s i n to the Sea of A z oph wh i le the K uban

dise m bog u e s i ts e lf i n to the Black Sea Betw ee n

the KI I ban an d its bran ch the T c h i n oi Protok
,
A ND OF T

,
A M AN

,
.

-
3 83 .

Tai n an is co m pletely i n s ulated as m ay be prove d ,

by con s ulti n g any good m ap .

The followi n g i n terestin g d escription of Tam an

i s give n by Se st r e n e vi c z de Bohuj

l
z The i sl e
of Ta m an i s washed on on e Si de by the stra i ts of

the Bosphoru s an d on the other by two bran che s

,

of th e river K u b an on e of which throws itsel f i n t o ,

the Black Sea n ear the m o un tai n K i si tash situ ated

, ,

u po n the le ft ba n k where was H e r m on assa towards ,

the e m bou ch ure The an c i e n t town of K or s c on.

dam a was upon the right ban k The other bran c h .

e m pties i tsel f i n to th e sea of A z 0 ph n ear T e m r uk , .

A third bran ch of the sam e ri v er form s the i slan d .

A st c h en i ef so called on accou n t of a boro ugh of

,

the sa m e n am e n ear wh i ch it falls i n to the Sea of

,

A z op h The R u ssian s n ow call it the Black '

l
l
C ap t ain C oc hran e i m akin g a ki d of ap ology for a fals e
, n n

i t erp re tation of a R ussian phrase say s his e rror how ever i t

n , , ,

aba se d h i m at t h e t im e plac e s him i n very re sp e c t able c om

,

l
pa y n
jy
n o l e s s than t h e ust ce e br a ted D r C lark e w h o w as .
,

e t e r ally c ros sin g t h e riv e r Prot o

n k app are n tly ig oran t that t h e , n

Pr ot Ok m e an s ne ith r m or
e ri r e n or le ss t h an the br anc h of a ve .

N ti
ar r a
of P d
ve t i Ja
y e 1 1 3 B f
es r a nr t h C ap t ai our n e , p . . e o e e n

r p t s thi r m rk h e h d b t t r l ok t p 38 5 6 of Clark
e ea s e a , a e e o a .
,

e s

Tr l d c
av e s , an lt g d m p f t h C c
on s u a I t i tr
oo a o e au as us . s ue ,

th t Prot ok m
a a ri ul t d m y th b g
e an s ra ly ppli d
v e , an a us e en e a e

b t T he oi P tk i t h e p i bra c h of t he

u , c rn - ro m f s s ec c na e o a n

K ba u d m ea
n , an Bla k R i ul t ; a d i d d i c om p aris o
ns c v e n ,
n ee , n n

w i th t h e K uba ; i t m ay be c alle d but a ri ul t

n
*
v e .
 l
384 IS L A N D OF T A M AN . PH A N A GO R I I .

Bran c h (Tchr n oi P r ot ok ) an d t he Tartars d esig

-
,

n ate it K oum i or K a ra Ku b an It com m en ce s

, .

n ear Kop i l capital of the i slan d

, an d for m e rly the ,

reside n ce of a Seraskier w ho com m an ded all th e ,

Tartars of the K u b an for the Khan of t h e K r i m e a , .

A st c h e n i ef i s larger than Ta m an but i t is full of ,

san d an d m arshes cov ered with r u shes an d reeds

, ,

which re n der i t very u n healthy It was origi n ally .

-

a pe n in s u la ; but a l i ttl e be fore our aara Phar

, ,

u s tra n s for m ed i t i n t o

n ac e s k i n
, g o f the Bosphor ,

a n i slan d by p i erci n g the ban ks of the K u b a n an d ,

l
by t urn i n g the w aters of this thi rd bran ch i n to th e
Sea of A z op h acros s the low elds of the Darda
,

l
n i an s his e n e m i es
, w i th t he i n te n tion of i nun dat
,

"
i ng the m .
3

I shall n ow proceed t o detai the r es ult of m y

ow n observat i o n s .

Havi n g called upon C olo n e Babaydof an d de ,

;

l ivered ou r letters we walked to th e fortres s of

,

Phan agor ii s u pposed to occ u py the place of an c i e n t

,

Ph an agor i a an d at th e d i stan ce of abo u t a m ile

,

fro m the town of Tam an Close by the gate s we .

exam i n ed a tu m u l us wh i ch had been searched an d

, ,

ll
whose con te nts had been fo u n d of th e sam e n atu r e
as those at Kertch O n the o uts i d e of t he for ti
.

cati on s a n u m ber of edices are occ upi ed by a

corps of en gi n eers The fortress which lies u pon
.
,

ai n was fo un ded by Su v a f It occ i es

a
p , r o u
p an .

i ire de
H sto a Tauride . I nt roduc tio p n, . 25 .
 C H UR C H AT T A M AN .
A NT I QUI T I E S .

i m m e n se space an d is s u rroun ded by a ditch an d

, ,

l
a low earthe n ra m part u po n which are m o u n ted
,

n u m ero u s can n o n It co n tai n s abo u t t w e n ty edi

.

c e s whic h are u sed as barracks hospitals m aga

'

, , ,

zi n es ofc e r s lodgi n gs & c an d m akes a v ery r e
, , .
,

s e c t ab e appeara n ce B u t it is a place of n o
p .

s tre n gth ; an d co u ld n ot withsta n d a well directed -

attack a si n gle d ay It form s the head q u arters

.
-

of t he islan d of Ta in an A fter h avm g m ade a .

visit to Colo n el Kala m ara a Greek w ho is statio n ed , ,

h e re we retu rn ed to th e town of Tai n an

, .

A fter di n n er we w alked to the Greek ch u rch ac

, ,

l

com pan ied by Captai n K ap i i st a (Captai n Cabbage ,

l
literally tran slate d) of the T c h r n om or sk i i K oz k s .

Th i s sacred te m ple is also beco m e a co n siderable

m u se u m The last a am ein of these K oz ak s I was
.
,

told had a taste for an tiq uities an d i n dep e n

, ,

d e n t y of I m perial order had care fully preser v ed ,

every fragm e n t of m arble an d every i n scription he ,

could n d To tell the tr u th the collectio n here

.
,

i s by far the m ost n u m ero u s an d the best i n the , ,

so uth of the R u ssian do m in io n s I sho uld have been .

h appy to have spe n t a co u ple of days i n stead of a ,

couple of ho u rs at this pl ace but that was i m p os

, ,

sible So m e fu tu re traveller will n d a har vest

.

worthy of his labo urs i n giv i n g an acco u n t of those

,

an ti qu ities wh i ch the s avag e

, Ko
z ci k s have n o t o n ly spared bu t care fully asse m bled ,

together an d whic h they n ow gu ard with atten

,

V OL 1 . . c c
386 P A SSI O N OR DE S T R U C T I O N .

tio n How u n like the co n d u ct of the co n q u erors

.

of the K r i m e a !

Dr Clarke has said that T u rks are m e n of taste

.
,

an d scie n ce i n co m pariso n of the R u ssia n s

,
an d , ,

l
n o do u bt he wo uld hav e give n the sam e c om
,

ar at i v e praise to the K oz a k s of the Black Sea

p .

To whatever cau se it m ay be ascribed whether to ,

the P assi on of d estr u ct i on or n ot it m u st be fairly , ,

a ow e d t h at the R u ssian s destroyed w hat eve n the

Tartars had revered tho ugh they co uld n ot c om ,

prehe n d an d what the K oz ak s of the E uxi n e

,

wo uld have gu arded had they had t h e power ,

-
.

To this ge n eral ce n s ure C ou n t M u sh i n P u shki n is ,

-

a m ost ho n o u rable exceptio n This n oblem an has .

l
co n trib uted his share to the c om m e m or at 1 on of

l
e v ery thi n g worthy of h i story i n a learn ed work ,
.

respecti n g Tam a n .

A m o n g other d e ar rs at the ch u rch I re m arked ,

three col u m n s of Cip e i n o m arble n u m ero u s capi ,

t a s m an y blocks an d so m e i m perfect m arble sta

'

, ,

tu es the drapery of which was very n e Nu m e

, .

ro u s pieces of m arble were also scattered abo u t

the ch u rch y ard I n th e i n terior of the t e m ple
.

were piled up i n regu lar order u pwar d s of t w e n ty

, ,

m assy broad sto n es covered w ith Greek i n s c r i p ,

l l
tion s all of which m ight w ith ti m e have b ee n
, , ,

deciphered an d copied I m ay re m ark here .

I s t or i t c h e sk oy I s e d ov an i
y o M s t O p o o
j
n iy Dr vn aho
R oss i i sk ah o T m utar ak an s k ah o K n i a jiyen , 1 7 94 .
 S T O N E or T M IJT A R A K AN

ll
l

th at bot h Pal a s an d C a rke have i n acc urately r e n

d ered the i n scriptio n i n S c av on i c which exists
u po n the celebrated m arble slab that threw so
,
.
- T0 W N 0 F T

,
,

,
A M AN . 38 7

m u ch light u po n the R u ssia n pri n cipality of T m i i
tarak an an d the n ce ha v e led to an i m portant bl u n
,

der I n b oth works it r un s to this e ffect

. In ,

the year 65 7 6 (1 0 65 ) i n dict 6 Pri n ce Gleb m e a .

,

s ured the sea on the ice ; an d the distan ce fro m

j (

l

T m i i t ar ak n to Kertch was sa i n s fa

Now th e year 65 7 6 co r respon ds to

A D 1 068 ; an d the distan ce of the passage be
. .

twee n these places is n ot fatho m s which ,

wo uld m ake 60 } v ersts bu t on v 8 05 4 fatho m s 4

,
4
,

which m ake 1 62 Versts This is the r eal dista n ce

1
.

betwee n Kertc h an d Ta m an .

Tam an it is sa i d was o n ce a very large town

, , ,

a n d its prese n t i n habitan ts report that it c on

t ai n e d 7 000 ho u ses It n ow con tai n s o n ly forty
.
.

s ev e n hou ses an d is n ot worthy the n am e of tow n

, .

I t s statio n ary p op u latio n does n ot exceed 1 5 0

m ales an d i t s vi c i n i t y is covered with r u i n s
, ; t In .

t he y e ar 1 7 8 7 du ri n g the war with the T u rks a

, ,

s m all fortress was erected ? here which i s n ow ,

l
n early rased fro m the gro u n d T he ditch an d .

ram part S how its bo un daries and the r ui n s are ,

l
Pa ll Tr l o i
as s

av e s , v . v. an dClark e s Travels p 406
, . .

Th e cu riou r ader w ill d a

s e n fac s i m ile of th e in sc ri p t ion on
-

K ar am z i n s His t ory of R ussia at

t h e st on e of Tm t ar ak an i n ,

t h e e n d of v o . vi .

c o Q
388 T H E T C H R N O M R SK I I K oz ii K S .

co v ered by l u x urian t wil d plan ts especially , E ry se

m um B a r ba r e a an d D a t ur a S tr am on i um .

Colon el Babay dof had placed se n ti n els over

ou r carriages whic h we afterwards fo un d to b e a
,

l
co m m o n practice i n the Cau cas u s an d of co u rse ,

is a ve ry u seful on e to travellers Capt ai n K ap us .

ta w h o ca m e to Tam an alo n g with the K oz ak s

,

of the Black Sea i n 1 7 97 acte d as our g ui de

, , ,

a n d we r e sen t e d hi m wi t h a t en r ou b e n ot e at ou r -
p
departu re H e ordered on e of hi s m e n to p ut
.

on the u n i for m which th ey wore whe n they had

the n am e of the Z aporogian K oz ak s H e was .

a little m an fty v e years of age an d p r ese n ted

,
-
,

hi m sel f with all the Vivacity an d re of yo u th ; h e

we n t thro ugh several e v ol u tio n s dan ced i n the ,

m an n er of the gypsies an d s u n g a n atio n al s o

, ng ,

which was little m ore harm o n io u s than that of the

R u ssian s or the Tartars His u n iform was m ade i n
.

the Polish m an n er; of excelle n t bl u e cloth an d tri m ,

m e d with silver The pan taloo n s were of the m ake

.

of those wor n by the K oz ak s of t h e prese n t day ;

the coat h u n g over h i s hips an d its ar m s were ,

wide an d Slit up like those of the Georgian s an d

,

Persian s D u ri n g his m an oeu vres with a sabre th ey

.

were t i ed behi n d his back I n the eve n i n g h e .

,

cam e to u s agai n w he n his Sh in i n g j et black waist

,
-

coat excited our parti c u lar n otice H e told u s that .

it w as prepared fro m foal s Ski n which was pro -
,

c ured i n the e m bryo state .

 F OR CE S or T A M AN .
C L A S SI C G R O U N D . 389

The regi m e n t of Colo n el Babay dof co n sists of

e ight co m pan ies each of 1 8 0 m e n m aki n g a tot al
, ,

of 1 4 4 0 ,besides o fcers Three com pan ies are .

stati o n ed i n the fortress of Phan agor i i ; two n ear

A n apa ; on e co m pan y at Bghas ; on e at T e m r i i k ;
an d on e at Kop i l The Colo n el has also abo u t 5 00
.

K oz ak s at his orders so that i n all h e has n early , ,

2 000 m e n u n der his co m m an d for the protecti o n ,

of the i slan d of Ta m an an d its vici n ity .

Tho ugh the n eighbo u rhood of the Ci m m erian

Bosphoru s be the m ost classic gro u n d o v er which
we j o u rn eyed ; an d tho ugh i t s hills an d Valley s its ,

l
s e p u lchral to m bs an d m on u m e n ts re n ew ou r asso ,

c i ati on s with the earliest history of Greece an d ,

the pro u dest periods of Ro m e yet I shall abstai n ,

fro m all detai l Pallas M u shi n P u shki n Se st r e n

.
,
-
,

j
e vi c z de B oh u z Cary Clarke, Re u illy Caste n au
, , , ,

81 0 have fu lly treated of a n d eve n represe n te d

.
, ,

l
every thi n g which is con n ected with th i s district ,

the an c i e n t ki n gdo m of Po n t u s It is evi den t .

,

l
fro m a per u sal of their works an d fro m the r e ,

m arks of M r de Br ii c k s that the a n tiq uities of both

.
,

S ides of the Bosphor u s are si m ilar The t u m u i .

,

the sep ulchres of an cie n t heroes have bee n fo u n d ,

to be cavern s regu larly an d wel co n str u cted an d

, ,

pe n etrated by arched doors O n e of these n ear .

,

Kertch which displayed beau ti fu l m aso n ry an d an

, ,

elegan t arch was lately d estroyed i n the n ight Mr

,
. .

de Brii c k s s uppose d that this was d o n e by the

c C 3
i
 8 90 T UM UL I . E CG H A S .

Tartars r t he sake (f the st on e s but the spiri t

,

of destr u ctio n is m u ch m ore characteristic of the

R u ss ian s tha n of the Kri m Tart ars as w e h av e ,

l
ab u n dan tly see n .

Agreeably t o appoin tm e n t on the 2 8 th of May w e ,

l
le ft the town of T am an acco m pan ied by Colo n el
,

Babay d of, an d after a sh ort drive by a good but ,

un i n teresti n g road thro ugh p ai n s sc attered with

t um u li we reache d Bgh as A t this pla c e there i s

,
.

a s m a l se m i c i r c ular bay w h i c h for m s art of t h e

p ,

am en or e m bo u ch u re of the river K ub n on
, , ,

w hose ban ks are erected a c us t om hous e an d a -

q u ar a n t i n e which, greatly rese m ble sta b les By .

the straits of Bghas this bay co m m u n icates with

the Black Sea an d with Circassia Alo n g the opp o
, .

site coast Circassian sherm e n have take n up their

, .

reside n ce an d n d ab un dan c e of sh i n the gu lph

, .

O thers of t h e n atives bri n g grai n as well as ho n ey , ,

to Bi i gh as which they exchan ge with th e R u s
,

sian s an d K oz ak s for salt We saw a fe w of those .

w h o were e n gaged i n this traf c bu t they were n ot ,

perm itted to lan d fro m their boat Their ferocio u s .

ll
an d barbaro u s appeara n ce was well calc u lated to

i n spire d i slike an d dread an d the rags which , ,

barely s ufced to cove r the m i n dicated the la s t ,

degree of poverty an d wretc h ed n ess .

Bg i as is a s m all village bu t b ei n g so n ear t h e ,

fro n tier s of Circassia it is on e of great i m portan ce

,

an d ther e fore n ot on a ban d of t h e T c h r n om r sk ii

, ,y

B I JG H A S . S EN N A Y A . 8 91

R oz ek s but
, like w ise a co m pan y of i n fa n t r y i s sta ,

t i on e d here The n arrowest part of the straits of

.

Bghas is o n ly abo ut hal f a m ile i n width ; an d ,

co n seq u e n tly it is n ot di fc ult for s uch a predatory

,

a n d d ari n g people as t h e Circassian s to m ake a

desce n t i n their light can oes u po n the R u ssia n ,

l
territories For m erly s uch an e v e n t was of frequ e n t
.

rec urre n ce bu t si n ce the R u ssian forces hav e be e n

,

i n creased these m o u n tai n eers have chose n other

,

m ore adva n tageo u s spots for their i n c u rsio n s an d

robberies as we sha l see hereafter We c o uld
, .

n ot help bei n g s t r u ck with the excelle n t policy of

the crown i n gran ti n g Tai n an to t he T c hr n om r sk ii

,

K oz ak s. It gave the m a dan gero u s property ,

which i t becam e their perso n al i n teres t to de fe n d ;

-

while t hey a people the n al m ost as savage as the

,

n atives of Circassia g u arded the fro n tiers witho u t

,

expe n se to the crow n .

l
I n the n eighbo u rhood of Bg h as is on e of the
petrole um spri n gs so freq u e n t i n the isle of Tam an
, ,

an d so a m ply described by Pallas It yields but a .

s m all qu an tity of petrole u m We di n ed at the .

Captai n s ho u se an d were i berally treated with
,

Don wi n e A n u m ber of o f cers were pres e n t

.
,

an d greatly e nj oyed a fe w glasses of Madeira which .

we had of ou r re m ai n i n g stock fro m Moscow .

W e arrived at S en n aya the rst reg ular post ,

station fro m Tam an ; for so it is called tho u gh w e ,

saw n othi n g but a s i n gl e wi cker w ork ho u se Situ -

,

ated u pon an i m m e n se plai n an d wi th the Sea of ,

C c 4
 l
392 0
P E R E Pi S K A . D R E A R Y D R I VE .

A z op h ide
on We fou n d that h ere were
on e S .

plac e d n i n e horses an d three drivers a te n an ts , ,

l
of the sa m e apart m e n t The rate of postage .

was di m i n ished t o ve k op e e k s p e r horse p er

verst ; a s u re proof th at cor n is n ot clear O nly .

fo u r fresh horses were at ho m e ; an d we were a frai d

w e sho u d have bee n obliged to aw ait the ret u r n of
the other ve at this dreary abode But by per
,
.
,

s u as i on an d dri n k m o n ey w e s u cceede d i n getti n g

-
,

the drivers to p u t a pair of horses to each carriage ,

to assist those which we already had an d to c on ,

t i n u e the j o u r n ey .

l
Nothi n g c an be co n ceived m ore dreary than the
driv e to Pe r e p i sk a the n ext statio n E xten sive , .

plai n s d estit ute of wood bu t covered with the

, ,

m ost l u x u rian t weeds scarcely an y past ures an d

fe w cattle except n ear so m e s m all scattered v i
,

lage s ; were the o n ly obj ects of our regard The

'

r oad lay thro ug h a m orass the water of whic h w as ,

frequ e n tly u p to the n ave of the carriage wheels ;

an d to i n crease the desolatio n
, of th e sce n e the ,

Sea of A 2 0 ph agitated by a v iolen t wi n d roared

, ,

fu rio u sly on o u r le ft .

The soil m u st here b e rich as was prov ed by ,

the ab u n dan ce of thistles ce n ta u ries ge ran i u m s

l
, , ,

vetch es sorrels wild cham o m ile &c all of en or

, , , .

The v ig ne tt e at th e h e ad of t h e 6th c hp a . of Clark e s

Tr el gi a e x c lle t i d a of
av s ve s n e n e s uc hh u t s, rud ely c on
st r u c t e d of r e e d s a d rrow ag s n na .
 l
D R E A R Y D R I VE . D E C E PT I O N . 3 98

m ous S i ze Th e eye wan ders over h u n dreds of

.

"

acres of these wild plan ts as the carr i age p u rs u e s

,

its co u rse a m id high reeds which freq u e n t y ob ,

l
stru ct the Vie w Near T e m r k daylight began
.
,

to fail u s an d t he road beca m e extre m ely bad It

, .

m u st b e n ext to i m poss ible to travel here i n the

S r i n g or a ft er heavy rai n s eve n i n s u m m er except
p , , ,

i n R u ssian t e eg a s O n e c an hardly co n ceive a
.

conditio n m ore forlorn than that of the traveller

,

whose car riage shou ld break d own or who by an y , ,

accide n t sho uld b e detain ed i n the n ight am i dst

,

these h igh reeds an d u n bo un d ed m arshes The .

fe w bridg e s we passed were extre m ely bad an d ,

t he carriages were i n dan ger of bei n g broke n J u st .

b e fore reachi n g the br i dge which crosses the m arsh

l
at T e m r k on e of them stu ck fa st i n the m u d an d
, ,

w as extricated with great di fc u lty .

Before we le ft Tam an Colo n el Babay dof said

,

i t was u seless to gi ve u s letters of i n trodu ctio n as ,

h e had despatched a sp e ci a m esseng e r to prepar e

l
qu arters for u s at T e m rk Whe n we arrived we .
,

co uld get n o i n telligen ce of the spec i al m esse n ger ,

or of the lodgi n gs prepared an d we re obliged t o ,

l
ut u with very i n di ffere n t acco m m odatio n s i n
p p
the ho u se of the sm ot r it e O n sen di n g t o the
.

captai n who h ad the c om m an d of a co m pan y h ere ,

a guard was gran ted for the carriages a n ecessary

precau tion i n a coun try where they m ight s o eas i y
b e plun dered an d the blam e lai d up on t he Ci r c as
,

si an m oun t ai ne er s .
3 94 TE M R

Te m ri I k

DK .

l
A R R I VA L

is a arge v illage raised upon a gu lp h

of the Sea of A z op h wit h a white ch u rch i n its,

c e n tre which we had re m arked as th e o n ly relie f

,
A T K U R T CH

,
AN S K A YA .

to the eye d uri n g the precedi n g day s drive Un der .

l
the do m in at i o n of the T u rks there was always a
garr i son of 2000 j an issaries statio n ed here T e m r uk .

i s fortied an d n ow form s part of the li n e of de

,

fe n ce of the K u b an .

A fter qu itti n g T e m r uk we travel e d o v er an ,

excelle n t road carried thro ugh a dead plai n bu t ,

before arrivi n g at the n ext station the sce n ery was ,

t otally an d m ost agreeably chan ged on the west

s ide of the K u b a n The Circassian m oun tai n s
.

l
r isi n g beh i n d an exte n sive gree n plai n an d covered ,

w ith woods an d scattered trees had the m ost de ,

lightful effect u po n the m i n d after the d reary ,

m orasses an d s tep s we had bee n trav ersi n g .

O n approachi n g th e statio n w hich is cal e d .

K ur t c h an sk aya or A n dr i v sk oi Redo u bt a se n ti n el
, ,

l l
s tan di n g u po n a watc h tower or observatory called
-
, ,

a oi shha n ot a little s u rpr i sed u s

'
, This appellatio n .

does n ot ad m i t of a tran slatio n It si m ply m ean s .

elevati on or h eight or lofty body an d was for

, , ,

m erly appl i ed to the e eva t e d s um m er quar t e r s of

the Tsars of R u ssia with th e ep i thet of r oy a p re
,

cedi ng i t . Repres en tati o n s of a vishk a are give n

l
by Clarke an d Porter an d on e is also seen i n the
,

v ign ette to this chapter Their con stru cti on is

.

Vide
Kar am z in s S ot c hi nni ya, vo . ix . p . 21 1 .
 VI S H KA .
A N D R I RV S K O I R E D O UB T . 3 95

ver y si m ple : a board or oor abo u t fo ur or ve

, ,

feet sq u are bei n g form ed with a coarse low rail

, , ,

ro un d it i s r ai se d i n the air to the height of thirty

'

l
or forty feet by fo u r posts (or r ather trees ) on e
, ,

at each corn er T h ere i s frequ e n tly n o ladde r bu t

.
,

cross bars bet w een the trees on on e side by which

-
,

the se n ti n els asce n d an d desce n d These watch .

to w ers are fo u n d at each of the statio n s as wel ,

as at every piqu et an d their ge n eral a c c om p an i

l
m e n t as i s see n i n the vign ette of th is chapter
, ,

i s an i m m e n se faggot on eac h side which bei n g ,

covered with hay to keep them dry I n bad weather

, ,

r ese m ble the tr u n ks of decay e d trees It i s k i n .

d e d the m o m e n t an e n e m y i s se e n It m u st be a
'

real pe n an ce to re m ai n fo u r ho u rs i n the air i n

cold an d bad weat her ; but the passive obed i e n ce
of the K oz a k s asto n ished us O ur road lay close
'

by the vi shhas an d w e ofte n passed the m witho u t

,

exci ti n g a look or a m otion fro m the se n ti n els ,

l
who stood like stat u es with their backs toward u s ,

an d their faces to C i rcassia as i f a horde of m o un ,

tai n depredators had bee n advan ci n g .

A n d r i v sk oi Redo u bt i s bu t a weak fortress It .

co n sists of a ar ge s qu ar e e n closed by an earth e n

r a m part an d a deep ditch an d co n tai n s bar rack s, ,

stables an d m agazi n es Here were stati o n ed 1 05

,
.

K oz ak s bes i des o fcers well ar m ed with gu n s

, ,

an d lan ces but their whole artillery i s a sin gle ,

Dr Clark e say s thre e

.
, but four ar e s een in his plat e .
3 96 F O R T R E S SE S . PI Q UE T S .

piece a two po u n der ; of which the m o un tai n

,
-

tribes of the Ca u cas u s sta n d i n great awe Si m ilar .

fortresses are erected alo n g the east s i de of the

K u b an a t th e distan ce of eightee n twe n ty an d
, , ,

t w en ty ve versts fro m each other Betwee n the m

- .
,

at the d i stan ce of every si x or eight versts we ,

fo un d a ui shha w ith faggots an d s m all ho u ses for

, ,

the res i den ce of piqu ets with the i r horses , .

l
We m ade a prese n t to the o fcer whom we
fou n d at the statio n H e gave u s a gu ard of
,

S i x K oz a k s three for each carr i age as n o i n di

, ,

vid u al is allowed to travel h ere alon e even were ,

h e wi l i n g D u ri n g the co urse of the n ext s tatio n

.
,

the Koz ak g uard chan ged three ti m es at the i n

t e r v e n i n g piq u ets bu t we scarcely percei v ed the
,

chan ge as the carriages n ever stopped T h e se n

, .
-
O

ti n els on the vi shhas gave warn in g of our approach

an d by the ti m e we reached t h e piqu et fresh ,

K oz ak s m o un te d were ready to take the place of

,

those who accom pan ied u s .

Fro m T e m r k t oK ar ak u ban sk aya the road lies

chiey over a pla in an d m arsh covered by weeds , ,

lon g gras s an d r eeds , The C i rcassian m o un.

tai n s an d the K u b an with in terve n i n g elds an d

,

woods on the west te n d to cheer an d am use the

, ,

traveller O n t h e east the eye w an ders over um

.
,

boun ded pl ain s an d reposes u po n the h orizon

, .

The road i n som e places w as ex ce lle n t i n oth er s ,

heavy ; an d i n the m arshes the horses were u p to , ,

the gir ths i n w ater We therefor e, w er e by n o.

,
 l
D E S C E NT OF TH E C I R CA S S I A N S . 3 97

m ea n s asto n ished at the trite re m ark of a Koz ak ,

that ew c ar r i ag es p a ss t his way Medvedov .

sk o a large v i l age with a pai n ted ch u rch lled

y , , ,

wit h h um a n bei n gs an d s u rro u n ded by herds of

,

cattle stan ds am id ope n el d s Few tree s ar e

, .

to b e see n i n its Vicin ity an d the birds for wan t , ,

of a lo ftier resti n g place warble their pleasi n g

-
,

n otes fro m the tops of the m u llen s (Ve r ba sc um

l
t hap s us ) At eac h of th e Koz ak station s are kep t
.

three t r oi k as or n i n e horses an d al m ost every

, , ,

where we were i n stan tly provided w i th th e m an d

, ,

fo u n d the m excelle n t .

l
l
At Pe tr v sk oy we asce n ded a vi sh r a fro m ,

whe n ce a m ars h full of reeds was poi n ted ou t t o

us , i n which n early a tho u sa n d Circassian s had
b ee n drow n ed i n the m on th of O ctober 1 8 2 1 , .

G e n e r a V assof havi n g had i n tellige n c e that thes e

,

lawless ban ditti were abou t to m ake a desce n t ,

m ade all preparatio n s to give the m a war m r ecep

l
tio n They crossed the K u b an lan ded safely an d
.
, ,

advan ced to a Short distan ce whe n a can n on w as ,

red as the S ign al of attack I n the m ean ti m e all .

,

t he faggots alo n g the li n e of the r i ver were i n a

b aze an d the can n on of th e n earest fortresse s
,

were also red The C i rc assian s were thrown i n to a

.

dreadfu l pan i c an d co n fu sion The i r whole forc e .

con sisted of abo ut 3 5 00 m e n of who m on ly ,

"

500 e scaped by m ean s of their can oe s About .

Q OOO were kille d wo un ded or take n p r i so n ers

, , ,

besides those drown ed so that the defeat was s ig ,

l
8 98

na an d
K OPIL T CH RR N o r -
P R O T OK

co m plete Notwithstan di n g this n ot m ore

.
. K OPAN S K A YA

,
.

l
l
tha n v e weeks before our arrival a s m all body ,

of these bold m ara u ders crossed the K u b a n an d ,

c arried off two m e n their obj ect bei n g to ob

,

tai n prison ers to excha n ge w ith the R u ssians Co .

on e Baba d of; however i n for m ed u s that the

y ,

affair of O ctober h ad g ive n the Circassian s a
very u seful lesso n as before i t they w ere con ti n u
ally m aki n g i n c u rs i o n s an d doi n g great i nj u ry to
,

the K oz ak s steali n g horses cattl e m e n wo m e n , ,

.

, ,

an d childre n .

At Kopi l we crossed the T c h r n oi Pr otok or -

,

the Black Protok which had b ee n bette r n am ed

,

the D i rty Prot ok for its water was exactly like

,

that of m arl pits It is n ot a very broad r i ver

- .
,

bu t it is very d eep an d ows thro ugh a level,

co un try as already n oti ced to the Sea of A z op h

, , ,

while the K u b an fro m wh i ch i t bran ches off; pro

,

l
c e e d s to the Black Sea The carriages were placed
*
.

u po n a ferry form ed of two boats j o i n ed by plan ks ,

.

At Kop i l the gu ard left u s Whe n we were at .

M i sh at ovsk aya we b egged a g u ard bu t th e of

, ,

c e r told u s it was u n n ece ssary As we c a c u .

lated that w e sho u ld n ot reach Kop an skaya before

it was dark w e gave hi m a douc eur an d our wish
, ,

w as i n stantly grat i ed We w ere d etain ed upo n.

the road an d arr i ved whe n it was excess i vely

, ,

dark at a m i serable stati o n w he r e w e wer e for c ed

, ,
'

Vi d e p . 38 3 . 0f t his l
v o um e .
 A R R I VA L A T YE K A T E R fN O D AR . 3 99

to pass the n ight The apartm e n t w e e n tere d

.

m ight well be called the black cha m ber an d it ,

swarm ed with a variety of detestable i n sects som e ,

of the m of great size It was lled with sleepi n g

.

K oz ak s who were covered with shoobs blan kets

, , ,

l
an d rags an d whose g u n s pistols sabres an d belt s
, , , ,

were s u spe n ded arou n d t he walls Neither a t a .

ble n or a chair was to be fo u n d an d with di f c u lty ,

we got wood to cook ou r d i n n er at t e n O clock ,

i n t he eve n i n g O ur repast was p a ced u po n a

.

board after partakin g of which we withdre w t o

, ,

the carriages for a fe w ho u rs repose .

We took n o g u ard from he n ce an d departed at ,

a n early ho u r wh ile it rai n ed hea v ily

, The wheel s .

of on e of the carriages gave way n o do u bt i n c on , ,

sequ e n ce of the i nj u ry it had previo u sly s u stai n ed

i n the drive thro u gh the m arshes We le ft our .

servan ts an d the coachm e n to take charge of

it ; an d on e of u s dri vi n g the horses W e S o on ,

reached Yekater i n od ar i n t he calash We we n t .

d i rectly to the ho use of Colon el M at ve f, a tamdn

l
of the T c h r n om Or Sk ii K oz a k s an d delivered ou r

letters of i n trod u ctio n T he pol i ce m aster wh o

.
-
,

was wi th hi m at the ti m e i m mediately ordered u s ,

a lodgi n g where we were very u n wel c o m e g u ests

, .

U n able to buy a whee w e se n t horses an d people

,

t o give assistan ce i n br in g i n g forward t h e c arr i age

By order of the a taman a captai n of e n gin eers ,

set his m e n to m ake a n e w wheel wh i ch they d i d

'

s u r prisi n gly well an d at a m oderate p i i c e by th e

, ,
400 TH E Q U A R A N T I NE .
-A C I R CA S S I A N PR I N CE .

af ter n oon of t he follow in g day O ur stay here gave .

u s a m ple ti m e to exa m i n e every thi n g co nn ected

l
with Yekateri n od ar .

O ur rst visit was to the q u ara n ti n e where we ,

fou n d a n u m ber of Circassian s exchan gi n g a m ea

s u re of rye for a m eas u re of salt We m ade ar .

ran ge m e n ts w ith the ofcers of th e estab i sh m e n t

( a ft er h avi n g r eceived the approbatio n of th e

a t am dn f r see i n g a Circassia n pri n ce an d h i s

) o

s u ite as well as so m e of the co m m o n peop e on

, ,

the followi n g day O ur m essage to hi m wo u ld hav e

.

so un ded very stran gely i n som e pri n cely ears Th e .

tran slator was des i red to say that fo u r Italian an d

,

Bri ti sh ge n tle m e n hav i n g arrived at Yekateri n od ar ,

were an xio u s to have an i n terv i e w w ith hi m an d ,

d esired to m ake hi m so me t r i i n g p r e s e n t s On

l
t h e followi n g m or n i n g prec i sely at the appoi n ted
,

l
tim e he arri ved an d aw aited u s a qu arter of an
, ,

hour i n co n seq u e n ce of a m istake The pri n ce

, .
,

j
n a m ed Pshi M ahm e t K h ad e m k o ; h i s t w o so n s ,

Sheret L u k eight ye ars of age an d A an t c h e r ai

, , ,

seven years of age ; h i s moh a or pri est M ahm e t , ,

K h atun ; two of hi s m ir z a s or n obles ; an d abo ut a

'

dozen of his s u ite all in un i for m an d well -arm ed ;

,

l
bes i de s a n u m ber of b oys an d m an y C i rcassian s
,

on b u si n ess , were asse m bled i n the qu aran ti n e .

After the u s ual sal utatio n s by m ean s of our i n,

t er p r et e r
, we hel d so m e co n versati on wi th the .

prin ce an d the m oh a ; an d h avi n g explai n ed th e

O bj ect s of ou r c u rios i ty w e be d they w o ld ex

gg
, e u .
 A C I R CA S SI A N PR I N CE . 40 1

c use our questi on s The Prin ce Khadj e m k o i s a tall

. ,

w ell proportio n ed m an of abo ut forty years of age

-
,
.

I n h i s phys i og n o m y there was n o express i on of

tale n ts but m u ch of good h u m o ur His com pla
, .

ce n t m an n ers stru ck u s forcibly H i s cap was .

c upola form ed m ade of leather an d bordered with

-
, ,

black Sheepski n H i s upper garm e n t m ade like .

,

the coats of the K ozak offi cers was dark colo ured ,
-

an d striped ; an d above it was a coat of chai n

arm o ur Th i s was covered wi th a sort of wh ite

.

l i n en tun ic The arm s were defe n ded by steel

.

ar m o u r s i lvered an d g ilt an d otherwi se orn a

, , ,

m e n t e d at the wr i sts ; an d bel ow i t was a sort of

l
sleeve which reached the m iddle of the han d His
, .

bl ue pan taloon s were e m broider ed with silver an d ,

bo un d at the k n ees by red leather garters an d h i s

boots for m ed of red an d yellow leather were ex
, ,

t r e m e y lon g Sharp poi n ted an d drawn close t o

,
-
,

the leg an d foot by laces I n his right han d he .

l
h eld a C i rcassian whip w hose han dle was short ,

an d covered w i t h leather an d which i n stead of , ,

h avi n g a lash ter m i n ated i n a heart Shaped ex

.
,
-

l
an si on red on on e side an d yellow on the other
p , , .

S u ch an i n stru m e n t is ad m i rab y calc ulated for m ak

i n g a n o i se agai n st the hors e s Sides H i s bow an d its .

case h i s qui ver full of arrows an d his s abre we

, , ,

were a l owed to e x am m e bu t his pistol s wer e I n the

holsters of h i s saddle on the other side of the K uban

I n Pa lla Tra el there i s a g

s s v s ood r pr se t tio of a Cir
e e n a n

i
c as s an e q u e tri wh om t h
s pri
an e nce m ch re s m bl e d
u Thee .

V OL . I . D D
4 02 A C I R CA S SI A N PR I N CE .
HIS S UI T E , &c .

The sabre w as of Dam asc us work m an ship an d ve ry ,

l
b ea u t i fu l ; bu t its ha n dle f or m ed of i vory was s o , ,

beset by lo n g an d sharp proj ectio n s like teeth , ,

t hat we h ad to p u t on gloves before grasp i n g i t .

l
l

T he pri n ce s son s w ere plai n ly dressed in the Ci r ,

l
c ass i a n styl e The m oh a wore a white tu rban
. .
,

a w i de owi n g scarlet r obe an d y ello w boots an d , ,

w as also arm ed wi th a sabre The s uite were m o .

der ate y wel dressed an d were all w ell armed , ,

A s i s u s u a thei r g un s were e n close d i n goatski n

,

c ases with the ha i r o utside wh ic h had a very

, ,

l
pri m i tive appea ran ce The Circassian s who we r e .

h ere for co mmerc i al p u rposes for the most part ,

w ere very badly c lothe d an d all of them had a ,

wi l d an d s avage asp ect .

ll
W e p ac ed a K ar assubaz ar red m orocco sk n
i

an d som e papers of E n glish n eedles be fore t he ,

l
p ri n ce ; two pair of orn a m e n ted Tartar Shoes

l
,

and a pair of h a n d balls before h i s so n s ; a -

,

n k n ife so m e pe n cils an d a paper of n ee dles

ip e , , ,

b efore t he m oh a an d a s m al yellow leather n

bag be fore each of t h e followers ; a of wh i c h
,

wer e cheerfully accepte d The n ee d e s an d p e n .

c i ls
, especi ally see m ed to afford gre at pleas ure
, ,

W e nex t tosse d a n um ber of red leather straps and

l
r eader m y l ook t hi 1 8 th 1 9th a d 2otb pl t e f other
a a s , , n a s, or

ill t atio f thi p e pl I th 1 8 th p l t e i a

us r ns o s o ll te . n e a s n ex ce en

g r f Cir ia obl Cl rk h gi
u e o a c as s n plat of a
n e . a e as ve n a e

C irca i prin e d a ti e f th e om mo order I n r

ss an c , an na v o c n , e ve

sa w y f th p ri
an o i th eo t um r p re se ted I alway s
n c es n e c s e e n :

found th m habit e d as i Pal as s 1 8th plat e

e n

.
 M A NCE UV RE S O F T H E

ll
C I R CA S S I A NS 403

l
s m all pie ces of silver i n to the ai r wh en a ge n e ra ,

scram ble took place the m e n sh owin g as m u ch

,

eagern ess as the boy s t o shar e the sp oi .

O ur c urios i ty ofte n exc i te d l aught er but all ou r ,

l
qu esti on s were gratifi ed by di rect an d ci vi an swer s .

A t ou r req u est the Prin c e str un g hi s bow and

, ,

shot off an arr ow D urin g thi s acti on his appear

,
.

l
an ce was extrem ely i m pos in g T he ar r ow was .

fou nd by a Circassian boy at a co n si der ab e di s

,
.

tan c e an d I have pres erve d i t as a spe c imen of the

,
.

e x celle nt workm anship of the n ative s .

D ur i ng our on g i n ter v i ew W e w er e n ot all owed

,

to approach wit h in fo u r or ve feet of the party ,

on acco un t of t he d a n ger of t he lag ue wh i c h fre

p ,
q

q ue ntly reig n s i n Circ assia .

H avin g bid u s farewell the Prin ce an d s ui t e

,

betook the m selves to t he i r c an oes which they ,

l
pad dle d across the riv er T o our s u rpri se i n
. , ,

a fe w m i n u tes the whole of t he par ty m o un te d

l
, ,

l ll
on horseback i ss u e d fro m an e n clos ure on t he
,

other s i de of the Kub an The p ri n ce rs t ap

.

e ar ed on a w h i te steed t h e n t he m oh a u po n
p ,

a d ark grey horse an d they w ere follo we d by t he

,

l l
w h o e su i t e The hor ses w er e r em arkab y n e,
an d hel d t he i r hea ds e x tr e m e y high Thi s c ava . s

cad e par aded up an d down upon t he banks of the

river t he p ri n ce s eldest son gallope d b ac kwards
,

an d forwa r ds an d a
, see m e d b usy w i th p r ep ar e

ati on s t he m ean i n g of which we di d n ot c o mp r e

,
.

h e n d A t le n gth the pri n ce an d sui te se t off at ful

. .
404 PR I S O N .

F O R TR E S S . C A TH E D R A L .

gallop on the plai n by the river side re d the i r ,

l l
p i stols i n s u ccess i o n exerc i sed with their sabre s , ,

an d the n for m ed a C i rcle an d havi n g m a de a short , ,

d et our they r epeated t h e sam e m an oe u vres A fter

,
.

an other gallop the whole party halted i n stan t a

n e ou s y ca m e down to the beach form ed a i n e

, , ,

an d havi n g called to the i n terpreter to bid us fare

,

l
well they rode slowly off
,

I n our r e t ur n fr om the q u ara n ti n e we looked

'

i n tothe yard of the p ubl i c prison an d saw a n u m ,

ber of m iserable delin qu en ts The prison itself i s .

sm a an d the ar d i s s u rro un ded b high '

ver
y y y
s

sharp poin ted pal i sad es or rather trun ks of trees

-
, ,

an d has a very disagreeable appearan ce

'

Fro m the pri so n we procee ded t o the fortress ,

an i m m e n se sq u are co u rt i n cl u ded by a d eep ditc h ,

t

an d an earthe n ram part like the other s m all r e ,

'

dou bts already spoken of A bo ut t we n ty w hi t e .

washed ho uses on e story high arran ged aro un d , ,

the squar e for m barrac k s m agazi n es works hop s

,

, ,
'

for carpe n ters s m iths &c bes i des a p r i son an d an

'

.
, , ,

hosp ital I n the centre of this fortres s stan ds a

.

very l arge cl um sy gree n roofed cathedral wi th

, , ,

ve do m es besides the dom e of the belfry I t s

, .

in terior is o n ly re m arkable as be i ng u n ni shed an d ,

i n having a p ulpit like proj ect i on i n the scree n -

,
~

placed over som e shocki n gly disproportio n ed

co m posite col um n s t he shafts of which are twice ,

the length they sho uld be The p ublic m on ey i s .

kep t withi n its w alls a c u stom whic h i s co m m o n

-

i n the K r i m e a t he C aucas u s an d Ge orgi a of

,
( , ,
 PR I S ON E R S . YE K A T E R fN O DAR . 405

c o urse am on g Chri sti an s an d M ahom e dan s ) an d ,

-
.

w hich i s fo u n ded u po n the belie f that the san ctity

of the ch u rc h will preve n t the i n tru s i o n s of eve n

the m ost aban do n ed person s in to the p ubli c e of .

fers ; but this idea however powerful w i th m an y

-
, ,

does n ot operate u pon all as we have al r eady , . .

seen i n the i n stan ce m en tion ed at K i e

At the pri so n of the fortress we saw twen ty t wo ,
-

Circassian prison ers m ost of whom had been cap ,

t ur e d i n the affair already all u ded to i n O ctober , ,

1 82 1 A n u m ber of th em were exte n ded before

.

the door baski n g i n the su n wh ile others were

, ,

h u ddled togethe r upo n m ats i n a m iserable apart

m e n t an d prese n ted a spectacle of great d ej ecti on
,

an d wretched n ess They were well gu arded b y

.

the R u ssian s an d a n xio u sly awaited an exchan ge

of priso n ers This is m ade on very di sadv an t a
.

geon s term s for the m as two R u ssian s ar e requir ed ,

i n exch an ge for on e Circassian .

Yekateri n odar or the GM of Cather ine was

, ,

fo u n ded i n the year 1 7 92 by the E m press who had , ,

gran ted a portion of the K u b an to the E ux 1 n e

,

K oz ak s an d who w i shed to co m m e m orate the eve n t

,

by the appellatio n oft his town It is the cap ital of .

the territori es of the T c hr n om r sk i i K oz ak s the

reside n ce of their A taman an d the seat of their ,

civil m ilitary j u dicatu re an d gen eral ad m i n i stration

- .

This tow n stretches over an i m m en se space The .

streets m any (y t hem wit hout houses are all i n

,
f
,

straight l in es extre m ely broad an d i n tersect on e

, ,

DD 3
 l
4 06 P OP UL A T I O N . -TH E AT A M AN .

an other at r ight angl es Non e of the m are paved ; ;

an d t hey ar e eX Ce ssrve dirty i n W e t w eather ;

'

y
th en i n deed they are n early i m passable on foot
, , ,

a s w as the case w h e n w e w ere there T h e h ou se s .

ar e m ostly m ean i n the i r appearan ce but t hei r ,

g e n e r al gloo m i s relieved by the r i ch vegetati o n

of the trees an d garde n s which s urro u n d the m .

Th e p op ulatio n of Yekateri n od ar i f I be correctly ,

i nfor m ed does not e x cee d 3 000 sou l s

, .

The A tama n of the T c h r n om r sk u K oz ak s ,

Colon el M at ve f; i s a pl ain fat little m an of fe w

, , ,

Wor ds an d as fe w p rete ns i o n s H e speaks on ly R u s

, .

s i an an d ap e ars n ot t o have see n m u ch of pol i shed

, p
l ife He was dres sed i n a bl u e j acket an d bl u e
.

trow sers an d wor e a grey lam bsk in cap in deed hi s

,

small c ros ses alo n e d i sti n g u ished hi m fro m a K o

z a k st e an t H e cam e here w ith h i s co un trym e n

i n 1 7 92 has bee n their A t amdn d u ri n g seve n or

,

e ight years an d arden tly devotes h i s l ife to the ir

,

servi ce He deserves our warm est than ks for hi s

.

k in d n e ss i n assi sti n g u s i n all ou r arran ge m e n ts .

The origin of the K oz ak s has exerci sed t he pen s

of a n u m ber of i n ge n i o u s wr i te r s It i s of litt le .

l
i mportan c e to ou r prese n t obj ect whether they ,

were or igi n ally a d i stin ct people or are of Pol i sh ,

or R u ss i an desce nt The Cur i o u s r eader m ay b e .

r e ferred to the works of Storch Schere r Se st r e n e , ,

-i

viez de Bohuj z Sch k at of Clarke V s vo oj

,
sk i i
, , ,

Casteln au &c i n w h i ch he wi ll n d this s ubj ect

, .
,

am pl
y di sc u sse d A fe w ge n er a l re
. m ark s h ow -
,
t

ever respectin g thi s in te r e sting people an d espe

, ,
 l TH E T CHERNO M OR SK I I

x oz

AK s

. 407

l
c ia espe cti n g the Koz ak s of the Blac k Se a I
'

r
y
,

hop e wi ll n ot be foun d m i splace d here .

The K oz ak s have been d i vi ded i nto two great

fam ilies st the K oz a ,
k s of the Don from w hom ,

origi n ated d iffere n t tribes as those of the V olga , ,

of the Ural m o un tai n s of S i beri a &c

, Q d Th e , .
,

K oz ak s of the Ukrai n e who gave b i rth t o t h e ,

Z ap ar og hi an K oz ak s n ow the T c h r n om r skii
,

K oz ak s or the K oz ak s of the Black Sea

, Th is .

warl ike pe ople have always be en accu st o m ed t o

d er i ve the i r n am e from the i r situ atio n as i s evi ,

d e n t by the above stat e m e n t

r
The word Z ap o . :

r gshiy e or Z ap ar oghi an c o m es fro m z a beyon d

, , , ,

an d r o hi cataract s an d was appl i e d to thos e

p o g , ,

K oz ak s who dwelt beyon d the cataracts of the

Dn p e r where their setch or govern m en t w as
, , ,
.

establi shed They vowed celibacy an d devoted

.
,

their lives to the pro fession of arm s They w ere .

a ferocio u s an d lawless ban d of pl un derers an d

desperadoe s I n their setch deserter s vagabon ds
.
, , ,

an d rebels foun d an asyl um

, They w ere lon g .

the b u l w ark however of the R u ssi an Terr i tori e s

, ,

agai n st the Tartar s of the K r i m e a They li ved i n .

strict u n ion wit h the K oz ak s of the Ukr ain e, as

lon g as th ey were u n der the dom in at i on of Pola n d ;
but after the u n io n of the for m er to R u ss i a t he u n ,

pri n cipled Z ap ar oghi an K oz ak s who lived by p i ra

c and s hi n g so m eti m es fo ught for the R ussi ans
y , ,

s om eti m es for the T urks a ccordi ng as they were ,

best paid or as i t s uited thei r ow n Vi e w s always

, ,

DD 4
40 8 TH E

T CH ER N O M OR SK I I K oz AK S

l
.

m ai n tain in ga d egree of ba baro s i depe de ce r u n n n

on the fro n tier of t wo powerful n atio n s I n the .

year 1 7 7 5 , the E m press Catheri n e II alleging .

l
that they were gui ty of h igh treason an d that

'

their delity co uld n ot be tru sted ordered thei r ,

set ch to be destroyed their n am e to be an n ulled

, ,

an d th ey the m selves t o be dr i ve n to the distr i ct

of Bi e g r od where abj u ri n g celibacy they h e

, , ,

cam e c ulti vators of the lan d while the i r for m er ,

property was bestowed u po n others A fter t he .

declarati on of war agai n st T urkey i n 1 7 87 m an y of , ,

l
the m wi she d to form regi m en ts wh i le others who had ,

e m igrated to the T u rkish provi n ces ret u rn ed an d ,

offered their services to R u ssia Pr i n ce Potym .

k i n form ed the whole i n to a body u n der the ap

pellation of F a i th d K oz dhs of the B ac k S ea ,

tr ustin g that they wo uld prove so i n fu tu re Per '

h aps the protectio n an d pay offered the m w ere the

gran d cau ses of t h e delity which they afterw ards
showed They proved of great service d uri n g the
.

T urkis h war an d e m i n e n tly distin gui shed them

,

s elve s at the s i ege of O t c hak of; an d the captu r e

'

of Be r i z an Whe n peace w as established the

.
,

l
E m press as a reward for the i r m eri tor i o u s servi ce s
, ,

gran ted th e m the co un try which they n ow possess

l
,

an d whic h had bee n lately co n q u ered fro m the

K ub an Tartars I n 1 7 92 they were t ran sported

.
,

t hither fo un ded thei r capital an d b u i lt d ifferen t Vi

, ,

lages an d they were charged with the defe n ce of the

,

li n e of the Kub an a on g their own territory They .

l
l
i ve
TH E T C H ER N O M OR SK I I

ch i e fly by feed in g cattle by sh in g an d by col

e c t i n g salt fro m so m e s m all lakes i n the i r co un try

part of wh i ch they exchan ge as already m e n

'
,

,
K O Z AK S

,
. 409

t i on e d with the Circassian s They have their ow n

,
.

A t am dn an d govern m e n t an d e nj oy the sam e privi

,

leges as the Don K oz ak s Si n ce th ey cam e to the .

K ub an t hey have proved faith ful an d have m ain

, ,

t ai n e d their m il i tary character Their con d itio n .

see m s to have been c on siderably i m proved si n ce

Clarke an d Heber visited the m For the m ost .

part they appeared to be easy i n their circ u m

,
.

s ta n ces ; an d were as well dressed as an y K oz ak s

we foun d re m ote fro m the great town s Their

, .

dress also is n ow the sam e as that of the other

K oz ak s bl u e j ackets an d trowsers bo un d with
, ,

a gi rdle ; an d so are the i r arm s I am q uite of .

Dr Clarke s opin ion that The T c hr n om r sk ii
.
,

are a brave bu t r u de an d warlike people poss e ss

, ,

l
i n g little re n em e n t of c i vilised soc i ety altho ugh ,

m u ch i n ward good n ess of heart an d ready to ,

S ho w their h ospitality to stran gers qu al ities ho w

'

ever wh i ch see m co m m o n to barbarou s life They

, .

prevai am on g all t he m oun tai n -tribes of the Cau

cas u s whom I have seen or respecti n g whom I
, ,

h ave r eceived tru st worthy acco un ts - Fro m the .

state m en t of the professor that they do n ot r e ,

s e m ble the K oz a k s of the Don i n habits disposi .

, ,

tion or i n any circ um stan ces of extern al deport

,

m en t ,I sho uld beg leave to disse n t I cou ld n ot .

d i sc ove r an y very m arked d iffere n ces betwee n

 '

41 0 T C H ER N O M R SK I I K O Z ri K S

TH E .

these two classes of K oz ak s It is tr u e that the .

,

V ery n am e of the T c hr n om r sk ii K oz ak s at a ,

distan ce i n spired a s ecret dread ; but from t he

, ,

rst m o m e n t we fou n d o u rselves am on g the m w e ,

were quite at our ease Their appearan ce an d c on .

d u ct gain ed com plete con de n ce w h i ch w as n ever ,

forfeited I Shou ld th in k that the T c h r n om r sk ii

.

K oz ak s are s i m ilar i n m an y poi n t s to t h e K oz ak s , ,

of the Don an opi n i o n which I fo u n d w as adopte d

,

by Castel n au L ike the m they also pr ofess t he .

,

Greek r eligion It is possi ble that they m ay hav e .

con siderably altered the i r hab its w ith i n the last

ll

twen ty-fo ur years i e si n ce Clark e s vi s it , . . .

l

t
Th e R om an r p li Catholi c
R ia Ses t e e i c m e t o o t an i n u ss , r n v z

d e Boh j i h i H i t ir
u z ,
nd T rid s p s o i a e e a au e, vo . 11. . n

sk t h f t h hi t ry of th e K o ak of t h Bl c k Se rel t s
e c o e s o z s e a a, a e

th t a , W
ot h e e m or
c an n q i t f ti o ighbour
av e un u e , ac us ne s,

n or w r o di r
o se s Th y a ot ha g d D ri g p e w
e s. e re n c n e . u n e ac , e

l
h av e e th m p illagi g e
se n eth d ert c o try of N w n ve n e es un e

R i pl t d a d b om fertile by th Wi e adm i i tr t i o
u ss a, an e n ec e e s n s a n

of C th ri a IIe Th
ne M r h l G er l C o t R m a t f
. e a s a - en a un u n so

Z d a i k i i q lly
un a s l br t d fo t h x ell y of hi j dg
e ua ce e a e r e e c enc s u

m t
en d h i m ilit ry xpl oi t
, an s d t r ly bo aa l gy
e s, an u a ve eu o ,

aft r h i g h ad t h e Z p o oghi s
e av n d r hi ord r i t h w a r an un e s e s n e ar

of 1 7 68 1 7 7 4 d e l re d that h h d fo d th m w ith t
-
, c a b e a un e ou su

ordi ti
na f on , o tr t bl t mp r
an d o ly br
un by t h
ac a e e e , an n av e e

l r of booty o wh t h y ld t y w y Th m
u e , r en e c ou no a a . e sa e

author al o t t sth t if th y ho ld
s a es , r r t r t o t h ir
a

e s u e ve e u n e

f rm r r bb rie they will b

o e o e pp ort d by t h Cir i n
s,
e su e e c as s a s ,

ac k w l dg d th e m o t x p er t thi
no e e of o d y I j ti e
s e e ve s ur a s. n us c

t th K o ak i t i b t f ir t o m t i t h t t h y ha p ro d

o e se z s, s u a en on a e ve ve

f ithf l g rdi
a u f t h fr t i r
ua d d t rm i d
an s o mi s f t h
e on e s , an e e ne e ne e o e

Cir a i c ss an s .
 T H E T CH ERNO M OR SK I L K OZ AK S .

T he coun try of the T c hr n om r sk ii on the sou th , ,

l
s tretche s fro m the m o u th of the r i ver L a ba to the
e m bo uch u re of the K u b a n river i n the Black Sea ;

t o wa rd the n o r th an d east it i s l i m i ted by the r i ver

Yea w hich s eparates it fro m the govern m e n t of
,

Ye k at er i n os af an d t h e c oun try of the K oz ak s of the

Don ; on the west i t is bo un ded by the Black Sea the ,

B osphoru s an d the Se a of A z op h Th u s the exte n t

i

.
,

l
of thei r te r r i tor y c o mprehe n ds u pwards of 1 000

s q u are m i les Tho ugh i t is k n own by the n am e of

.

The L an d o f t he T c h r n om r s k ii K oz dhs an d

th ou gh as we have see n they have the i r ow n parti

, ,

c u ar ad m i n istratio n yet th i s co u n try i s u n der the

,

i n specti o n of a R ussian govern or ; an d n o do u bt all , ,

t heir m otio n s are carefully watched by the R u ssian

ofcers , at the differe n t station s alo n g the li n e of
de fe n ce Till lately n ot o n ly Ta m an but the
.
, ,

wh ole of the lan d of these K oz ak s for m ed part of ,

the govern m en t of the T a ur i da or K r i m e a an d was ,

l
u n der the s uperi n te n de n ce of the Du c d e Richel i e u ,

an d of hi s s u ccessor Cou n t L an gero n Bu t very

, .

lately i t has m ore n atu rally been m ade part of the

, ,

gover nm ent of the Cau cas u s an d i s un der the care ,

of that bold an d act i ve c hief Ge n eral Ye r m of; ,

of w h om w e shall h ave Occas i o n to Speak i n a n othe r

art of t h is work
p .

The n um ber of K oz ak s who too k u p their abode

l
i n the K uban i n 1 7 99 a m o un ted I bel i eve to abo ut
, , , ,

m ales an d i t seem s to have bee n n early

,

s tat ion ary for the la st t w e n ty year s ; be i n g stated

l l
41 2 D E PA R T UR E . V I L L AG E S . TU M UL I .

at in 1 804, 1 8 1 3 , an d 1 8 1 8, b y three R us
sian writers ,
St c h k at of; V sv o j
o sk ii , an d Yab
OV Sk ii .

l
Si n ce thei r abode here they n o lon ger are sworn ,

to li ves of c elibacy an d wo m e n an d m others are ,

e e n a m o n g the m ; but they are fe w i n nu m ber, an d ,

con sequ e n tly pop ulation m akes n o progress They

,
.

have a fertile co un try bu t it i s l i ttle c u tivated

l
.
,

It is scattered with n u m erou s v illages as m ay be , _

.

s ee n b i n s e c t i n g a good m ap an d i s by n o m ean s
y L
p ,

so desolate as i s ge n erally i m agin ed .

O n the st of J un e we left Yekateri n od ar at t w o ,

o clock 1 n the m orn i n g travelled the w hole d ay , ,

withou t stoppi n g till the eve n i n g whe n we reached

, ,

T i m ij
,

b sk aya w here we di n ed
, O n the west as .
,

we passed alon g the high ban ks of the K ub an th e ,

l
day bei ng clou dy the m o u n tai n s of Circass i a were
,

co m pletely ve iled an d on t h e east n othi ng but an

, ,

i n term i n able plain covered with lon g herbage w as

, ,

l
to be see n Th e Villages Ust L ab i n skaya L a
.
, ,

d oj sk a a
y T i,p h i sk a a
y Kaz a n skaya K av k ask a a
, y , ,

j y
an d T i m b sk a a are all s i m ilar to
, each other .

The r oad for the m ost part was level an d we r e

, , ,

m arked n u m ero u s t um u l i on both side s so m e of ,

which u pon the ban ks of the ri ver served t he se n

, ,

tin els i n place of observatories or v i shhas while , ,

the in terior arches were con verted i n to Stables .

.

I f the h u n dreds of t u m uli i n t h e s tep s beyond ,

K i e i n deed thro u gho u t the sou th of R ussi a in

'

-
, ,

the Kr i m e a i n the K ub an an d accor di ng to the

, , ,
 T UM UL I .
l
T H E GR E B E N S K I I E O Z A K S I
. 41 3

r eports of travellers also i n Wallach i a and Molda

,

v i a b e all sep ul c hral to m bs of th e an cie n t i n habit

,

an ts of these regio n s they wo uld argu e a con sider

,

able pop u lation i n rem ote ages B ut the re is reaso n .

to believe that m an y of the m were elevated by the

di ffere n t tribes of Tartars S u c h tu m u li are also .

fo u n d tho u gh spari n gly i n the vic in i ty Of Moscow ;

, ,

an d a n u m b er of years ago whe n at O s t a the

py e va
( , ,

estate of Pri n ce V i ase m s k oi on e of the m ost di s ,

t i n gui sh e d livi n g poets of R u ssia ) o n ly seve n tee n ,

m i les fro m that capital I w ell re m e m ber s eei n g ,

two of the m wh i ch that n oble m an was of opi n io n

,

owed their origi n to the Tartars

We fou n d good horses an d w ere atten ded with ,

a g uard of three fou r or ve K oz ak s who chan ged

, , , ,

as on the precedi n g day at the p i qu ets so that we , ,

m ade rapid progress .

The defe n ce of the lin e of the Cau cas u s by the ,

K oz ak s of the Black Sea e n ds at R e d u t sk oi K a ,

r an t i n an d is the n com m itted to the Gr be n sk i i

,

K oz ak s who are desce n dan ts of the K oz ak s of t he

,

Don an d w h o h ad take n refuge i n Circass i a after a

, ,

r evolt an d dwelt n ear a r u gged rock which r e

, ,

s e m bled a co m b e be n i n R u ss i an fro m which

g r , ,

they got their n am e .

l
A m on g these K oz ak s we foun d the sam e kin d
of earthe n fortresses piq u ets an d vi shha s as a m o n g
, , ,

th eir T c h r n om r sk ii brethren but the latter we re

m u c h better co n str u cted Mo un ted i n the ai r .
,

the g uar ds rese m bled the S ty i te S imeon an d ,

 l
41 4 T H E GREB EN SKI I K oz Ax s .
-U S T L A B i s x A Y A .
N

showed t he sam e i n differe n c e as a stat u e whe n we ,

passed them at fu ll gallop not eve n be st owin g a

look upon us Two carri ages tra ve lin g th i s r oad

.

l
together is a rare Sight ; an d as the K oz ak s w er e
lon g warned of our approac h fro m the t ow ers ,

they had ti m e to m ake all preparat i on s for r e c e v .

i ng u s an d m ost likely they took u s for m ilitary

, ,

o f cers an d w i shed to Show great atte n ti on to the ir

, ,

d uty by their i m m ob ility .

The fortres s of Ust L ab i n skaya i s on e of the

l
largest an d m ost i m portan t alon g the Kub an ; an d .

is con str u cted i n a m an n er s i m ilar t o that at Yek a

t e r i n odar Colo n el v on B eh n a G erm an i n for m ed
.
, ,

m e t h at he had so m eti m es two thr e e fo u r si x

~

, , , , ,

seve n or eigh t batta i on s of R u ss ian i nfan try be -

, ,
q

l
sides a co r p s of 1 00 or 2 00 K oz a k s un de r hi s c om
, .

m an d an d that they were all requ i red at t i m es t o

, , ,

keep their restless n eigh bours i n aw e w h o c r ossed ,

the K ub an in the i r can oes du ri n g th e n ight an d c on ,

c e a e d the m selves a m o n g the reeds i n the m ar shes ,

till they saw a t opport un i ty of carryi n g O ff booty ,

or attack i n g t ravellers H e also tol d us that of

.
,

l l
late th e dan ger u po n this fro ntier h ad bee n gr eatly

l
d i m i n ishe d by the Vi gilan ce of the troops an d the ,

severe chastise m e n t the m oun tai n e ers h ad rec eived .

When we arr i ved at the for tresses of the K oz ak s ,

we were gen eral y m e t by the co m m an der either on ,

foot or on horseback w h o sal u ted u s a a m i i tai r e
, ,

expressed his happi n ess at our safe arr i val an d ,

hoped w e sho uld h ave a p r osperous j our n ey .

 ll
WI L D PL ANT S . ST AV R O PO L E . 41 5

D uri ng th i s day dri ve a m id m an y w ild plan ts
s , ,

it was i m poss ible n ot to be s tru ck with the p r ofu

l l
s io n of the b e a uti ful Fr ax m e a D ict amn us a bu s
( ) ,

a n d of Feather grass
( p p
S t i a- en n at a
) .

O n the 2 d Ju n e we le ft ou r q u arters at an early

ll
ho u r an d pass ed throu gh a m on oto n ou s co u n try
, ,

an d gloo m y vi l ages whose o nly or n am e n t co n s i sted

,

i n their ch u rches There are three roa ds by w hich

.

we cou ld have approached Stavr op o e ; an d the

on e w e chose as bei n g the shortest
, e d u s to desert ,

the ban ks of t h e K u b an We foun d that the i n .

t e r i or of the co un t ry be i n g m ore re m ote fro m p u n

,

l
d e r e r s was covered w i th ocks an d herds that
, ,

there w as a greater appearan ce of c ultivati on ,

l
an d that v i llages were n um ero u s Havin g passed .

Novo-Troi tskoy e the lan dscape becam e m ore v a

,

ried an d soon pres en ted h ills an d da e s scattered

, ,

l
with dwarf trees espec i ally oaks an d m aples The
, .

n ear er we approached S tavr o o e the m ore d i ve r s i

p ,

l
e d the sce n e r y becam e ; an d i n m ak i n g a d et our to ,

e n t e r i t by a better road than the post took we

'

l
passe d a n e d e r ichly clothed wi th wood an d
s hr ubbery ,

St av r op o e i s the ch i ef town of a distri ct b u i lt ,

upon t he le ft ban k of the Tas hla whi c h r un s i n to ,

the K a auii s an d i n a pleasan t situ ati on The soil

, .

ar o u n d i t is r ich an d is r e m arked for its ab un dan t

,

crops of hay I n the town are t w o or three good

.

s treets l in ed by sto n e a n d woode n ho u ses Th e

.
,

c our ts of j u s ti ce t he p ol i ce -ofc e so m e p ubli

, ,
41 6 RO G UE R Y O F P O ST -M A STE R S . N AD EJ DA .

az i n e s, a fe w can dle an d soap m an u factor i es an d

g ,

tan n eries besides a co uple of ch u rches an d the

, ,

fortress a r e the m ost re m arkable edices it c on

,

l l
tai n s We were rather s u rpri sed at n di n g so m e
.

well stocked shops so far i n the i n terior of the Cau

cas u s The Don wi n e cost here 1 s 3 d p er bottle
. . .
,

bu t it was of e xcelle n t qu ality .

St avr op o e co n tain s betwee n 2 000 an d 3 000 i n ha

bi t an t s co n sistin g of R u ss i an s an d K oz ak s besi d es
, ,

a fe w fo r e ign ers It i s r e m ar k ab e for its healthy

.

C li m ate .

Fro m the ti m e we e n tere d the K r i m e a t ill we ,

j oi n ed the great li n e of com m u n icati o n w i th R us

sia we had little cau se to co m plai n of delay
, ,

l
of i m pos i tio n i n the fare or of the post-m asters , ,

ll
but h e r e we fo un d that R u ss i an s agai n h eld these
station s I a ug ured that at s uch a distan ce from
.
,

their ow n coun try their habits m ight have chan ged ;

,

bu t I was decei ved At Stavr op o e the sm otr i

.

te di d a i n his power to i n d u ce u s to pass th e

n ight u n der his roo f H orses were proc u red for
.

on e of the eq u ipages an d it set off; an d ga i n ed the

,

n ext statio n At le n gth horse s were likewi se got

.

for t he other carriage an d we proceede d on our ,

j ourn ey bu t were overtake n by dark n ess an d

, ,

obliged to t ake up ou r q u arters for the n ight at Na

d j da twelve versts distan t O n j oi n i n g our co m pa
, .

n io n s n ext m orn i n g w e fo un d tha t they had bee n

,

p ut to co n siderable i n con ve n ie n ce owi n g to their n ot

h avin g h ad thei r p odor e a e d t h
'

g n e w hi c h r m i n wi ,
 B E S H PA GH fR V 1 E w s ,
. 17

us . this very i m portan t crede n ti al n obody

W i thout ,

lll
wo u ld receive the m i n to their ho u se The stdr ost .

was abse n t killi n g loc usts an d i t was wi th d ifc ulty

,

that t hey at last pe r s uaded an old m an to give the m

lodgin gs At the late ho u r they arrived i t w as
.
,

co n trary to aw to light re or can d e s ; an d m u ch

pers u asion was n ecessary to i n d u ce the host to let
the m so far i n fri n ge the aw as to light a can dle .

A fte r a very early breakfast we left Be shp aghi r

for G eorgi evsk which we reached i n the eve n i n g

, .

Non e of the post station s requ i r e an y notice The .

road lay thro ugh m o n oton o u s sce n ery bu t of a dif ,

fe r e n t ki n d fro m what we had b ee n acc u sto m ed to

for so m e ti m e for we co n ti n u ally asce n ded an d de
,

sce n ded hills n early desti tute of wood an d covered

l
w i th lo n g grass like that of the st ep s an d passed
, ,

over i m m e n se tracts on whic h little was to be see n

,

bu t thistles bell ow e r s a n d w orm wood i n term ixed

,
-
, ,

with n e elds of corn an d pastu res .

A ft er leav i n g Stav r op o e bu t m ore especially on ,

the approac h to G eorgi evsk t he vi e w s of the Besh ,

t au an d th e n eigh bo u ri n g m o un tai n s whic h arise

, ,
.

fro m the bos oin of an i m m e n se plai n are re m ark ,

ably pleas in g W e had n ot yet beheld t he r ange of

'

the Cau cas u s the weather h av i n g bee n un fav o u r

,

able ; tho ugh whe n clear i t i s s ee n from Stavro

, ,

pole The C i rca ss i a n m o un tai n s we saw i n our

.

cou rse alo n g the K ub an were o nly of sec on dary ,

i m portan ce an d n o n e of the m c overe d w ith sn ow

, .

V OL. I. E E
41 8 ARRI VAL AT G EOR G I EV S K .
SA I T H S A T O O N .

We had co n siderable di f c u lty i n n di n g a

lodgi n g at Georgi evsk ; an d the c om m an dm an t t o ,

who m we had se n t to beg his i n terfere n ce as the ,

l
o r odn i t c hii was n ot at ho m e ret u r n ed an an swer
g , ,

ll

that it was n ot his depart m e n t At le n gth we .

e ntered the hoiI se of a R u ssian who S howed u s a ,

couple of roo m s i n on e of which was a han dso m e

,

we l dressed Persian w i th a n e lo n g black beard

-
, ,

w h o n ot a i t t e s u rprised u s by addressi n g u s i n ou r
n at i ve to n gu e We fo u n d that he was seco n d dra
.

go man to his Royal High n ess Abbas Mirza of

l
Persia an d had acted as g uide t o n u m bers of ou r
,

co un trym en while i n that cou n try a n d am o n g the

, , ,

rest to Sir R K Porter who j u dged hi m so good

, . .
,

a speci m e n of t he Persian s as to give his portrait a

place i n h i s trave s Saith Satoou f or s u ch is his

.
,
"

n a m e was ed ucated at an E n glish school at B om

,

bay an d Spe n t m an y years of hi s li fe i n I n dia

, ,

chiey am o n g the E n glish We fou n d hi m an .

l
i n telligen t an d pleasan t m an wh o was lo u d i n the ,

praises of Pers i a of the Ki n g an d of Abbas Mirza

, , ,

an d , perhaps with good cau s e for his co un try

, ,

w as n ever r u le d w ith s u ch m ild n ess an d tale n t

co m b in ed as at presen t But as we shal s ee here
, .
,

after i t is to be fear ed that a cal m precedes a

, ,

l
dread fu l storm The Pers i an am bassador w h o
.
,

was on his way to L on don an d w h om Saith Sat oon ,

was to accom pan y had m ade a det our to the m i n

,

eral waters of t he Cau cas us an d was t o be j oi n ed ,

by him at St avr op o e .
 l
M OR T A L I T Y OF GO V E R NO R S C O U N T . GO R S K I I . 41 9

The day had b e e n w i n dy ; an d although we had ,

arrived at the 3 r d (1 5 t h N S ) J un e the t he r m om . .

,

eter s un k as ow as 5 8 Fahre n heit

.

O n the followi n g day which w as S un day we , ,

l
m ade a visit t o the C i vil V i ce govern or there b ei n g -
,

the n n o gover n or a c i rc u m stan ce whic h di d not

,

s urprise u s s i n ce s u c h an appoin t m e n t m ust b e

,

reg arded as a p un i sh m e n t i n co n seq u e n ce of t he ,

u n healthi n ess of the cli m ate an d the prev a e n ce of ,

m ost Violen t an d i n veterate i n ter m i tte n t feve r s .

Madam e Fr eygan c h i n L etters fro m the Cau ca

'
,

s u s an d Georg i a m 1 8 1 9 i n for m s u s t hat her

, ,

u n cle was the fth gover n or of the Ca u cas u s w h o

had di ed w i th in the short space of eight years I f .

correctly i n form ed a fe w m ore h ave also forfe ited

,

their l iv e s for the ho n o ur con ferred upon the m ;

an d Co u n t G or sk i i apparen tly was rap i dly follow
, ,

i n g the m H e had had an i n term i tte n t fever for

.

three years with on ly short i n tervals of h ealth or

, ,

rath er of con valesce n ce F or the last eleve n

.

m o n ths he had n ever had an i n te r m iss i o n of h i s

d i sease ; som eti m es th e paroxys m s retu rn ed every
day an d som eti m es on altern ate days a form of
, ,

i n term itte n t fever ext re m ely co m m on at Mosco w ,

l
an d especially a m o n g the lower classes H e had .

been atte n ded by a n u m ber of m edical m e n i n d i ,

vi d u ally an d i n co n su ltatio n an d had take n a great

, ,

vari ety of m e dici n es besides the Per u vian bark

, ,

red an d pale i n a form s -powder d ecoction

, , , ,

an d p i lls &c, w i tho ut any e ffect

. He w as very .

E E Q
42 0 FE VE R S .
D E S C R I PT I O N or G EOR GI EVS K .

m uc h red u ced an d see m ed abo ut to fall i n to a

,

l
gen eral dropsy an d m ost l i kely ere th i s h as pai d
, , ,

the debt of n ature .

T h e vici n i ty of G eorg i e vsk m u st b e h ealthy ,

for Dr Ki m m el say s that i n term i tte n t fever s are

.
.
,

un k n ow n at St av r op o e an d that those attacked ,

wi th them are q ui ckly c ured whe n t r an sp or t e d t o

t hat t ow n .

The plag u e so m eti m es r ages also at G ci r gi vsk

t o a u gm e n t i t s d i sag r eme ns .

l
C oun t Gor sk ii n otwi thstan di n g h i s very diseased
,

s tate w ished to see us an d w as extre m ely polite

, , .

Tho ugh n ot able to be prese n t hi m sel f he i n vited ,

u s to j oi n his u s u al d i n n er pa r ty on S un day at ,

w hich we m e t a t he a u thor i t i es of the town

,
A . .

ci rc um stan ce he m e n ti o n ed excited con siderable

i n terest Whe n he had bee n i n the m i li ta ry ser
.

vi ce sixtee n years he fo ught a d ue] an d killed , ,

hi s ant agon i st H e was r e du ced to the ran ks

.
,

s erved other sixtee n year s a n d le ft the arm y wit h ,

l
the title (I believe Colo n el ) h e had be fore the d u el .

l
By the R ussi an a uthors G e orgi evsk is called a

l
f i
o r t e d t ow n words w hi ch are apt to con vey a
, ,

m u ch m ore exalted i dea of i t than i t really de ,

s erves I t i s rathe r l ike a large v il age than a

.

t ow n an d esp e c i a y si n c e the re w hich hal f-c on

, ,

s umed it i n 1 8 1 6" I t i e s upon the n orth ban k of

, .
,

t h e Podkm a (or the L i ttle K um a ) at e i ght verst s

'

,
, ,

from i t s j un ctio n w i th the (Great ) K um a an d at ,

t he d i stan ce of 2 094 % ve r sts fro m M os cow I ts .

D ES C R I PT I O N O F GEOR GI Ev s x .
S C OTCH COL O N Y . 42 1

fortress w as co n str ucted 1 n the year 1 7 7 1 an d i n ,

1 7 8 5 it beca m e the chie f place of a distr i c t wh i c h ,

l
so m eti m e s belo n ged to the govern m e n t of Astra
cha n an d s om eti m es to that of the Cau c as u s I n
, .

1 8 0 9 it was m ade the govern m e n t town of the Cau

,

cas u s an d the res i de n ce of the ge n eral i n ch i ef of

,
- -

this di strict Ge n eral Ye r m of however has n ow

.
, ,

l
xed h i s head q uarters at T ii s - .

Ge orgi evsk i s d ivide d i n to three q uarters on e

of wh ich i s the fortress of St George an d i s su r .

,

ro un ded by low forticatio n s The C h u rches the .

,

l
arsen a the barracks the hosp itals the p ublic m a
, , ,

az i n e s of cor n an d salt are the chie f edice s in

g ,

this town whic h is said to co n tai n 5 00 hou ses

, ,

an d above 2 000 i n hab i tan ts an d wit h a st an i tz a ,

or V i l age of the K ozak s at a Sho r t d i stan ce ab ou t , ,

ll
i

3000 The m ilitary excepted t he greate st par t

. ,

of the i n hab i tan ts are K oz ak s of the V olg a i n te r ,

m i xed wi th s o m e R u ssian s an d Arm e n i an s w ho ,

keep shops i n wh i ch w e fou n d ab un dan t s uppl i e s

,

both of the n ecessar i es an d the u x u ri es of ife .

l
O n the 5 t h of Jun e we left Gebr gi vsk an d ao

, ,

l l
com pan i ed by a K ozak g uar d wh i ch was chan ged
.

at the p i q ue ts we reached the S cotch Colon y K a

, ,

r ass dis tan t thi r ty ve ve rsts The r oad wh i ch

,
- .
,

lay ch i ey i n a va l ey by the ban k s of the Pod

.
,

k i I m a an d over p ai ns by t he foot of t he m oun
, t
~

tain s i s describe d by Palla s an d K i m m e

, .

E ac hg i s s oun de d hard y

E E 3 ,
 CH AP . X .

D E S C R I PT I O N or K A R As s I T S M I L I T
. A R Y GUA R b .
D I S E AS E S .

TH E R EV . MR . G O VE R NM E N T O F K A R As s I T S
B R U N TO N .
- .

L A N D S C U L T U R E P O T A T O E S R E L I G I O U S O PI N I O N S O F
. . .

I T s M A H O M E DA N N E I G H B O U R s I N T E N D E D B A PT I SM O F A N.
-

O S S E T I N I A N R A N S O M E D M O U N T A I NE E R S
.
VI S I T T o B E S H .

TA U . V I E w O F M O UN T C A U C AS U S R E T U R N T o K A R A SS
- . .

R E C E PT I O N B Y M R JA C K K O N S T A N T i N O G6R S K G E N E
. . .

R A L D ES B O U T D E P A R T U R E T H E P O D R UM A
. .K I SL A .

V 6D S K I I A C I D U L O U S
. S P R I NG S D E L I C A C Y O F T H E R US .

S I A N s M O U N T E L B O R U S S P R I N G S A T K O N ST A N T I N O GOR S K

. . .

B A T H s T H E M E S T CH UC H A D E S C R I PT I O N O F K O N S T A N
. .

T i N O GOR S K V I S 1 T T o A C I R C ASS I A N V I L L A G E
. R E P AS T .
- .

- A N O B L E WH I P M A K E R P R E SE N T s - PR O B AB L E UTI L
. .

I TY O F M R JA C K M O U N T A I N T R I B E s T H E I R A R T I F I C E
. . . .

M A H O M E DA N 1 S M F R I E N D L Y C I R C ASS I A N S M O U N T A I N
. .

B E R S I N T H E R U SS I A N S E R V I C E R E T U R N T o G E O R G I EV S K

D E P A R T UR E D E L L N E A R P Av L o v s x A YA Y E K A T E R I N
. .

O G R AD PAV L oD L S R O Y E
. A M U S I N G S C E N E - M O Z D OK
. . .
 D E S C R I PTI O N OF KA R ASS . 4 Q3

P O P UL A TI ON
COM M E R CE . S T R E E T S H O U S E S DE . . .

PA R T U R E -T H E TER E K
. R E D O UB T O F A L E XA N D E R CO M
. .

P O S I T I O N O F A C A R A VA N D E P A R T U R E B ANI SH M E NT O F -

l
. .

T H E T C H I TC H EN T s 1 R E D O U B T O F C O N S T A N T I N E
.
R E D O U B T .

O F E L I ZA B E T H V L A D I K A V K Az I T S F O R T R E SS
. SH OPS . .
- .

D E PA R T U R E B E A U T I EU L D E E I L E M A K S I M K I NA - DE
. .

.

F I L E O F L A R S L A R s DE E I L E O F DA R I EL
. . .

O N r e ac hi n g the village of Karass after the u s u a

'

formalities w e were ad m itted thro u gh its wicker

,

work gate by a Koz ak gu ar d , This Scotc h .

colo n y is agreeably s itu ate d on a ge n tle declivity ,

abo u t two m iles distan t fro m the foot of the Besh

t au or the Five Mo u n tai n s an d at th e easter n ex
,
-
,

t r e m i ty of a n e forest It co n sists of two wide .

streets which i n tersect each other at right an gles

, .

Through the m iddle of the pri n cipal on e of the

t w o ows a clear riv ulet wh ich fu r n is h es an ab un ,

dan t s upply of water at all season s of the year ,

.

The ho u ses here tho ugh chiey con str u cted of ,

woo d h ad a m ean app earan ce but the garden s

, , ,

orchards an d c ulti vated elds by which they an d

, ,

the whole village were s u rrou n ded produ ced a ,

cheerfu l effect an d argu e d that this establish me n t

,

was on e of the abodes of i n d u stry The m ost r e .

m arkable edices were the m i n i ster s s m all ho u se ,

the soldiers barracks an d the wicker work stables ,
-

for the horses of a com pan y of K oz ak s I n the . ,

m iddle of the village was a sm all g u ard ho u se -

,

with a sen ti n el paradi n g betwee n it an d a loaded .

piece of ar tiller y w hile an i m m e n se torch blazed ,

at h i s s i de Upo n e n qui ry why the cann o n w as

.
4 24 M IL I T A R Y G UA R D o r KA R AS S

l
.

loade d an d the torch lighted we were i nfo r m e d , ,

that the predatory i n c u rsion s of the C i rcass i an s

h ad of late bee n very freq u e n t an d that they h ad ,

carried off con siderable property fro m the v i l age ,

especially horses an d cattle The gu ard had bee n .

stre n gthe n ed an d a can n o n plan ted there on

,

p u r pose to frighte n the pl un derers who have a ,

m ost sal u tary dread of s u ch form i dable weapo n s .

The Village has n ow bee n very q uiet for so m e

m o n ths *
.

l
Altho ugh it is n ot m y i n ten ti on to gi ve a lon g
a cco un t of Karass yet a fe w details m ay be m e n ,

t i on e d I shall n ot hesitate to m ake som e qu ota

.

ti on s from a s m all vol um e p ublishe d by the Rev .

Mr G e n r especi ally as that work i s n ot likely
.
,

ever to have an exte n sive circ ulatio n an d as they , ,

appear to m e to be highly i n terestin g .

l
Mr h xpr
. Gl e n him lf p thi bj t The
t us e e sse s se u on s su ec .

c as e o f th ti l i a f ll w
e se n ne s of t h m
s t
s d t a h
o o s on e e s an s a e c

g t of t h ill g
a e d w he t r
e v a ll r w i h f adm it t
e, an , n ave e s s or an c e ,

h i d ty i t o gi
s u oti c
s t br other
ve n ti l t t h g ard
e o a -se n ne a e u

h u who m t t l th
o se, p t i w i th whom i t r t t o dm i t
us e e ca a n, es s a ,

o r fr d m it t
e use a ordi g t o ir um t
an c e , a c c Th e p olic n c c s an c e s . e

a bo d ri b d
ve e sc om m di
e , ti or of i t
s i e id r d o ca on , s c on s e e as

ry f p r t ti g t h p rop rty of t h i nh bit t fr m

n e c e ss a or o ec n e e e a an s o

t hi d oth r b dit t i t h
e ve s an ff t
e f w ho
an d p r d ti e e ec s o se e e a on s

l
,

th y h e oft f lt d th r i ith r w ll
av e en e an , di t h
as e e s ne e a a n or a c

a ro d i t b t m rely a w t tl d fe c t h R i g rd will
un , u e a e n e, e uss an ua

n ot b a o e t bl a th e y
cc un a ow fe p r p rt y t ol from
s n ar e , or o e s en

th ill g
e v l th y h t h p w r of r f i g dm i t t e
a e , u n e ss e av e e o e e us n a an c

u pi i hr tr J T 0 p 84
t
o s s c ou s c
o f
a ac e s . 8 our n a a ou r , 1 . . .

f Jo r al of To r from A str ch t o Karass Edi burgh

u n a u a an . n ,

1 823 .
 DI S E A S E s T H E

,
.

The greatest part of the origi n a m is si o n ari es at

Karass an d their w i ves were carried off by dyse n
t e r y i n th e years 1 804 1 8 05 ; bu t the cli m ate i s
R EV .

,
MR .

l
B R UN T O N . 4 95

ge n e ra lly healthy The most prevalen t disease as

.
,

at G e Or givsk is the ag u e wh i c h i s o fte n followe d

'

, ,

by dropsy Co n s um ption i s l i ttle k n own i n the

.

colo n y or its Vici n ity I n the year 1 8 04 the plag u e .

,

l
c o m m i tted dreadful ravages i n the i m m ed i ate
n ei hbo u rhood of t he colo n y
g It i s a c i rc u m .

stan ce says Mr Gl en
, that will be lon g r e
.
,

m e m bered w i t h gr at i t u de by t h e m iss i o n ar i es that

'

whe n s u rro u n ded by the p agu e to w hich tho u ,

san ds of the n atives becam e victi m s n ot on e of ,

l
their n u m ber fell S ultan Katti -Gherri Kri m.

l
Gherri the n un d er the i r c are was i n deed seized by
, ,

i t bu t was m erc ifully preserved an d preserved

, , ,

I hope to be a blessi n g to hi s co un trym e n
, .

W e di d n ot vi s it t h e b u ryi n g gro und which i e s

'

-
,

a bo u t h al f a verst n orth of the v i age It co n tain s .

l
the m ortal r e m ai n s of a n um ber of B riton s m ale s ,

a n d fe m ales am o ng who m the late Rev He n ry

, .

Br un to n w as the m ost di sti n gu ished I n a c on .

l
versati o n with the deceased Dr Rogerson m an y .
,

years ago he told m e that i f an y m an was c a c u

, ,

late d to do good as a m ission ary it was ass ur edly

, ,

Mr Bru n to n an d besides he spoke of that gen

. , ,

t e m an s tale n t s w i th ad m ir ati o n Accordi n g t o .

J ournal of a T our , &c . p . and V id e p . 237 . of his

t
l
v o um e .
42 6 TH E REV . MR . BR U N T O N .

all acco u nts the Doctor s opi n ion was well fo un d
,
-

ed . M r Gle n pays a trib u te to hi s m e m ory an d

. ,

states that he was a m an of a m ost vigoro u s u n

,

d e r s tan di n g ; well Skilled i n the sacred literat u re of

E u rope exte n sively acq u ai n te d with the dog m as of
the M ahom e dan s whos e Cora n he co u ld r ead i n the
,

ori gi n al Arabic e n dow ed with a s i n gu lar capac i ty for

acqu iri n g a k n owledgeof dead an d liv in g lan gu ages ;
of a shrewd a ct i ve an d e n terprisi n g t u r n of m i n d ;
, ,

an d by co n sequ e n ce as far as n at u ral capac i ty an d

, ( ,

exte n siv e eru di tio n ar e con cer n ed ) e m i n en tly

, ,

q u alied for the work of a Chris t ian m ission ar y .

He died on the 2 7 th March 1 8 1 3 after h avi n g , ,

n ished the tran slation of the Tartar T u rkish New -

Testam e n t n ow i n c i rc ulatio n am o n g Tartars &c

, , .

on both s i des o f the R u ssian li n es a work that m a

y ,

be co n sidered as a ki n d of stan dard or m odel for

those w ho w i sh to wri te agreeably to the T u rki sh
gram m ar yet i n s u ch a style as to be u n der stood
,

by Tartars possessed of a m oderate k n owledge of

l

their ow n lan g uage Mr Gle n i n all u di n g t o
. .
,

the failin gs of his brother labou rer i n the above -

,

pare n thesis di d well to let the ve i l r e m ain n u

,

l
to u ched ; for it is ever to be regretted that it was
, ,

the ot of a m an of Br un t on s tale n ts to have b een ,

as it were expatriated an d seclu ded fro m soc i ety

, , .

Perhaps co n sequ e n t m elan choly drove hi m to seek

rel i e f i n liberal potati on s whic h m ay have ac c e e
,

rated death .

J ourn al of a Tour , &c . p . 52 .

 G O VE R NM E N T OF K A R As s . I TS L A ND S , &c . 42 7

In all civil ca u ses the colo n y of Karass is go

,

v e r n e d by its ow n laws ; bu t i n cri m i n al cases it , ,

is s ubj ect to the ge n eral laws of the e m pire or to , ,

s peak m ore properly to R u ssian co u rts of j u stice

, .

The chie f co u rt i n t h e colon y is the Mission ary

Co m m ittee i n s ubordi n atio n to wh i ch is the unt er
,

g er i c ht or u n der co u rt which i s co m posed of three

,
-
,

of the Germ a n s The colon y was i n a great m e a
.
,

s u re co m posed of Germ an s but accordin g to Mr

, , .

Glen with the exception of a fe w fam i lies they

, ,

have bee n ordered to leave the place an d to s ettle ,

elsewhere It is to be hoped ere this m eas u re is

.
*
,

carri ed i n to exec u tio n that n e w settlers m ay have,

arrived so as to keep u p an d exte n d the c u ltiva

,

t i o n of the la n ds a task with a fe w good han ds , ,

l
an d a little m o n ey of n o di fc u lty , .

I n 1 8 2 2 the pop u lation of the colo n y co n sisted

,

of o n ly three Scotch fa m i lies i n cl u di n g the m i n i ,

l

s t e r s an d of betwee n twe n ty an d thirty Germ an
,

fam i i es .

The qu a n tity of ar able lan d lately m eas u red off ,

for the colo n y by order of gover n m e n t is 2 5 00 ,

l
desi a t i n s which a ow mg three acres to a d es i at i n
, , ,

is u pwards of 7 0 00 acres excl u sive of n early 1 000 ,

d e s i a ti n s overgrow n wit h bru sh wood reeds &c

,
-
, , .

The so il of the lan ds of the colo n y an d n eighbou r ,

hood is a ric h black loam which whe n well c u

, , ,

t iv at e d i s re m arkably prod u ctive i n all k i n ds of

,

Journ al , Not e , p . 60 .
 l
K A R As s . PO T A T O E S

l
42 8 C UL T UR E AT .

grai n tho ugh as the Germ ans n d the c ultur e of

,

l
tobacco potatoes &c m ore prot able th e porti on
, , .
,

of an d appropri ated t o the raisi n g of cor n i s but ,

s m all . Great qu an t i ties of exce l en t cabbage s are

l
also raised by the Germ an s w h i ch w he n take n t o , ,

the m arket at G eorgi evsk or the Vi l age at t he ,

spri n g of K on stan ti n og r sk bri n g a high p r i c e

, ,

l
bei n g r ecko n e d t he bes t i n the co un try .

From Mr Gle n we lear n that t i th e Scotc h

.
, ,

m i ss i o n ar i e s we n t t o Karass potatoes w ere s carcely

,

k n own ou t he K i i m a an d are still Con si dered as
'

a r ari ty .

H e l ikew i se adds that h e fo un d that ,

v al u ab e art i cle better at th i s establ i s h m e n t than

l
an
y where else i n R u ss i a Good potatoes
. h ow ,

ever are t o be got both at M osc ow an d Petersb u rgh

, ,

especially those r aise d by the Ger m an colo n ists ,

l
an d other foreign ers who u n de r s tan d n ot on ly how
,

t o c ulti vate the m bu t ik ew i se h ow to bo il t he m

, .

I n the last r espect the R uss i an s ar e extrem ely

i g n ora n t an d they Spoil good potatoes by allowi n g
,

l
t h e m t o bo il very slowly or to s oak o n g i n water
'

, .

Th e peas an ts hav e s till a s ayi n g am o n g them that ,

l

potatoes are n ot an article of God s gi vin g or ,

ll

he wo u ld have given them to the R u ssi an s Thi s .

n o n se n se however , i s a n nu al y beco m i n g less cre

,

dite d an d the co m m o n people begin t o c on sum e

'

con si derable qu an ti ti es of this i n va uabl e r oot .

A fe w c i tation s fr o m M r G e n s book i n i l us

.

J ournal of a Tour , &c . p . 25 . an d p . 56 .

 RELI G I O US O PI N I O N S or M A H O M E DA N S . 42 9

trate the O p i n i o n s e n te r tai n ed by t he tribes by ,

l
wh i ch the Scotch colo n y is s u rro un ded .

I n an arg u m e n t with the Car bar di an ch i e f of

a village it was u rged agai n st Mr Gle n that as
, .
,

for t h e people i n their q u arter God had gi ve n the m ,

the Coran which reco m m e n ded good m ora s an d

, ,

co n de m n ed every kin d of wi cked n es s an d there ,

l
fore that i t was foolish i n the m i ssI O n ar i e s to
,

i m agi n e that they sho uld be able to t u rn an y of

the m to the Chri stian religion except they su c ,

c e e d ed i n the rst place

, i n co n verti n g their
,

l
m o as an d e n di s I n co n ti n u i n g the arg u
.

m e n t the sa m e chief ad m itted the fairn ess of the

,

professio n s of t he m issio n aries i n g en eral ter m s ;

but i n stead of liste n i n g to the m he kept the m at ,

bay for a good part of an ho u r by a pretty artfu ,

u se of the a r g um e nt um a d hom i n em as i f dete r ,

m i n ed to m ake reprisals for the u se t h ey had bee n

m ak i n g of it a m o n g hi s brethre n of the M ah om e

d an faith Ye have a religion he said whic h
. , ,

ye tell u s i s better than an y other an d ye profess

,
,

that i n m aki n g it k n own ye do to others as ye

, ,

wis h the m to do to you This has been yo u r way .

of talk i n g fro m the rst . Ye cam e here an d e u ,

t e rt ai n e d u s wit h fair speeches t ill you got our ,

lan ds taken fro m u s an d sec u red to yo urselves

, .

W as th i s doi n g to others as ye co u ld wi sh the m to

do to you ? Who th in k you c an believe yo u r
-
, ,

profession s after havin g acted i n th i s m an n er ?
The m i ss i o n ari es told hi m that the land s had bee n
,
 48 0 R ELI GI O US O PI N I O N S OF M A H O M E DA N S .

assign ed to the m by gove r n m e n t wh i c h had a right ,

to dispose of the m ; an d as he mu st allow they

were m u c h bette r with the m for n e ighbou rs than ,

with their ow n co un try m e n ; n ot to speak of the

fact that they had o n ly a s m all part of the lan d
,

appropriated to their ow n u se the greater part of ,

it bei n g i n t h e han ds of the Germ an s while h e ,

an d others of h i S co u n trym e n were perm itted at ,

ti m es to graze their cattle c ut hay &c &c

, , , .
, .
,

wit ho u t charge Neithe r Ger m an s n or an y other

.
,

descriptio n of stran gers he rej oi n ed wou ld have , ,

ve n t u red to settle i n this wild regio n u n less you ,

had set the m the exam ple O n these p oi n t a I .

S hall leave th e reader t o j u dge w h o us e d the m ost

powerful argu m e n ts .

I n a con versatio n with a Cabar di an Uz de n ,

says Mr Gle n . we took occasion to poi n t ou t to

,

h i m the s uperior excelle n ce of the tr uths of the

Gospel an d reco m m e n ded the m to his atte n tio n ;
,

bu t wh i le he ad m itted the thi n gs were good an d

l l
sal utary h e declared hi s r esol u tion to h old by the
,

religion i n which h e had been ed u cated ; addi n g ,

tha t Mr Galloway an d he were always good

.

frie n ds an d n ever di ffered except on the s ubj ect

,

of re i gio n abo u t which he was s u re they wo u d

, ,

n ever agree an d there fore i t was best for

, the m
to avoi d di sc u ssion an d to worship God each i n
,

his ow n w ay i Howe ver differe n t our ideas m ay
.
L

be on t he s ubj ect it i s i m possible n ot to adm ire

,

Journal of a T our , &c . p . 1 17 .

1 Ib d,i p . 1 05 .
 R E LI GI OUS O PI N I O N S OF M A H O M E DA N S . 48 1

the liberality of s u ch a doctri n e whether held ,

forth by Pagan M ah om e dan or Ch r istia n

, , .

I n an other place says Mr Gle n , I n con versi n g

.
,

wi th u s on e of the Tar tars a m i r z a (bu t i n re

, , ,

d u c e d circ um stan ces ) took the lead a n d acted as ,

chie f speaker A fter he had proceeded s o far as

.

to explai n hi m self distinc tly his opi n io n like that , ,

of the g r eater part of his co u n trym e n was t hat , ,

God had given to every people the religion m ost

s u itable for the m an d that each of the m sho u ld
,

b e satised with their ow n He had bee n lon g .

i n the i n terior of R u ssia an d he had see n their

,

religion ; he had been i n Ger m an y Fran ce an d , ,

other parts of E u rope where he had an opp or t u

,

n it of observi n g the form s of worship which

y
obtai n ed i n them ; an d the i m pression left on his
m i n d fro m a review of th e w hole was that the
, , ,

the religion practised i n each of these cou n tries ,

l
was good for its i n habitan ts The religion of .

l
Moham m ed as practised by his co un trym e n was
, , ,

i n like m an n er good for the m ; a n d an y alter

, ,

ation of their established form s i m proper or to , ,

sa
y the e ast,u n n ecessary .

It is pai n fu to read the followi n g qu otation .

The m ission aries n di n g to their n o s m all grie f

,

an d asto n ish m e n t that n ot a fe w of the Moham m ed

,

a n s m ade it their b u si n ess to ask for Testa m e n ts ,

witho u t the r e m otest i n te n tio n of readin g the m ,

Journ al of a T our , &c . p . 1 82 .

48 2 R EL I G I O US O PI NI O N S or M A H O M E DA N S .

l
an d, so far as co ul d be ascer tai n ed for the s ole ,

p u rpose of provi di n g the m selves at an easy r ate , ,

l
with covers for the Coran an d other books r e c om ,

m e n ded by t he i r te ac he r s ; while the s acred vo

'

u m e which they had pr om ised t o read

,
was de , /

stroyed or thrown as i de as waste paper ; they

,

alter ed their plan a n d n ow they se d o m give away

,

l
a copy of the Testa m en t till by sou n di n g the , ,

petiti on er respecti n g his Views or e n quiri n g i n to , .

h i s character they obt aI n so m e fai n t evide n ce

,

that he really i n te n ds to peru se i t i with a p r om i se , ,

i f the case see m t o req u ire it that h e wil on n o ,

acco un t destroy the word of God .

'

I shall m erely add a n other Short c i tation t o ,

show the ge n eral i m pression s m ade upon the tri be s

i n the n e ighbou r hod of Karass The m issi o n .

ar i es say the n atives
, are very ki n d obligi n g ,

l
n e i ghbo u rs bu t da n gero u s people as they m ake
, ,

i t their b u si n ess to speak agai n st the Prophet 1 .

As the foregoi n g statem e n ts are calc u lated t o

i n spire gloom as to the s u ccess of the efforts of the
,

m issio n aries it i s agreeab e t o n d that great hope s

'

, .

are e n tertai n ed by the m of ultim ately overcom i n g ,

all obstacles an d of obta in i n g m an y co n verts t o

,

the Christian rel i gi on .

The m issio n aries of late have r an som ed fewe r

, ,

of the C hildre n of thei r dem i barbarou s n eigh -

bours than they were w o n t to do becau se m an y

, ,

J ourn al of a T our p , . 1 58 .
1 i p
I b d, . 1 55 .
 l
R A N SO M E D M O UN T I NE E R S A . 488

of the m r an away or were stole n after the m on ey

, ,

had been obtai n ed As the reader wi l see by an d

.

by however the whole were n ot lost ; an d a fe w

, ,

l
of the m have beco m e con verts to Christi an i ty .

B ut it i s ti m e to ret urn to the j o u rn ey .

Fin di n g that Mr Jack the resi den t m in i ste r

.
, ,

was go n e to so m e di stan t village acco m pan ied by ,

on e of the m issio n ari es Mr Ga l o w ay to in stru ct

, .
,

the Circass i an s w e called u pon Mr Paterson

, .
,

w h o is here for si m ilar du ties H i m we fou n d i n . .

a well laid out an d thrivin g garde n am id bee ,

hives an d I co u ld have fan cied m ysel f i n Scotlan d ,

fro m the appearan ce of i n d u stry an d the Scotch ,

l
p r o nu n c i ati o n of m y co un try m a n O n e of the chief .

obj ects of ou r vi sit was an af. fai r of i m portan ce A n .

O sse ti n i an se r van t m an who belon g ed to S ulta n

-
,

Katti Gherri Krim Gherri an d who m we had tak en

- -
,

w i th u s from Sym ph e r op o e h ad des i red t o be ,

l
bapti sed ; an d I had bee n r equ ested to m ake all
the arran ge m en ts wi th the m is s i on aries for the
cere m on y provided the m an S hou ld be of the s am e
,

way of thi n ki n g whe n we reached Karass It w as .

s t i l h i s i n te n t i o n to beco m e a Chr i stian bu t som e

r ecen t or d er s of the R u s sian govern m e n t preve n ted

th i s m eas ure It was n o l on ger perm i tte d to bap

.

tise con verts fro m Islam is m w i thout gi vi n g previ

ous n ot i ce an d observi n g s o m e n e w for m al i ties
, .

Again st this n ew order the m ission aries i n te n ded

to petiti on the c r ow n as it s ee m e d t o t hem ve r y
,

V OL I. . P F
48 4 VI SI T TO B E SH T A U .

hu rtful to the i n terests of Chri stian i ty I have n ot .

heard of the res u lt .

l
The weather was re m arkably n e an d by m ak ,

i n g liberal prese n ts to th e K oz ak s we obtai n ed the

.

gi v e n n um ber of horses an d ascen ded the Besht au

, ,

on e of the m ost celebrated m o u n tai n s i n this n eigh

bou r h ood . The road aythro u gh n e woods an d ,

afterw ards e n tered a dell the asce n t thro u gh whic h

,

was d ifc u lt Here we le ft the h ors es i n charge of

.

s o m e of the K oz ak s who had acco m pan ied u s an d ,

taki n g gu n s i n our han ds we asce n ded the hill on

,

foot l w i th ou r g ui de The height of th i s m o un tai n

.

l
is reckon ed abo u t 8 000 feet an d it occ upied u s ,

two hou rs fro m the ti m e we e n tered the dell j u st

,

m e n tio n e d to reach its s um m it

, To abou t hal f its .

height the Be sht au is a d orn ed wi th woods an d

, ,

h igher up the yellow azalea (A z a ea P on t i ca )

,

In full bloo m co n trasted its n e colou rs with

,

those of a profusi on of t h e p u r ple A n e m on e (A n e

n om e N ar c i ssi or a ) .

We had see n Mou n t Cau cas u s the cradle of

t h e h u m an race be fore reachi n g G eorgi evsk wi th
, ,

l
m i n gled feeli n gs of s u rprise an d r evere n ce bu t
the m aj estic sce n e which i n stan tan eo u sly b u rst on
the View on gain i n g the top of the m ou n tai n the ,

weather bei n g clear an d the Sk y of cer u lean bl u e,

,

- e d the m i n d with the deepest awe an d a d m i r

ati on The whole chai n of s n o w capped m ou n tain s

.
-

betwe en the E u x in e an d t he Pal u s M aeot i s r ai si ng ,

.
 VI E W OF M O UN T CA U CA S U S . 4 85

\
the i r ve n erable he ads to the clou ds an d reflectin g ,

the rays of the s u n with all the colo u rs of the rai n

bow was on e of those sights which lead us t o
,

look thro ugh Natu re up to Natu re s God an d t o ,

m edi tate on the attrib u tes of H i m who said L et , ,

there be light an d there was light , Below u s .

,

l
stretched out as on a m ap were the Great an d ,

L ittle K abar d a an d Ab aza ; the other fo u r hil s

l
which with t h at w e stood on co m pose the Be shtau ;
,
*
,

ll

K on stan ti n og r sk ; an d the Pod I m a owi n g fro m
am o n g the m o u n t a i n s n ear K i s av Od ski i T u rn i n g .

to the n orth the Scotch colo n y ; a n u m ber of sepa

,

rate m o u n tai n s a of w hich have d iffere n t ap ,

p e at i on s ; the a id s or wicker work villages of ,

-

Circassian s an d Nogay Tar t ar s ; with G eorgi evsk

a n d St a v r op o e i n the distan ce ; ar e the obj ect s

which attract n oti ce We sat down on the m oun .

tai n top an d at ou r ease con te m plate d on e of

-
,

the gran dest v i ews i n E ur op e 1 .

L

ll l
This w ord sig i e s The F i ve M ou tai s and i s d eri e d
n n n , v

from t he Tartar o t h e Circ as ia la guag e i which B h sig

r s n n , n es

l l
n ies e a d T u a m ou t ai
v ,
n I t i s th e sam e i
a Gre e kn n . n ,

u der P e t p o i
n i S c a o i c u de r P i ti bo a a d i Ci c as
n a s n v n n a r , n n r

s ia u d e r G k hi thk ou H e c e i t i s ot u c om m o t o he ar of

n n e - . n n n n
,

t h e c ou t ry of t h e Fi e M ou t i s Vi de H is t oi e de a T ur i de
n v n a n . r a ,

v o ii p 20 a d Kl ap roth v o i p 2 5 1
. . .
, n ,
. . . .

A frien d w h o h as t ra e ll e d a gre at d e al a d t o Whom I

v , n

h ad how this p art of t h e M S S m ak e s th e foll ow i g re m ark

s n .
,
n

I do ot thi k this i s q uit e c orr e c t

n n There a e i um erable . r nn

v ie w s i Sw it z erla d a d i Norw ay i it ely gra der I
n n n n n n n .

ha e e er be e in Swit z erla d a d ha e see but little of

v n v n n , n v n

Norw ay ; an d as i t i s n at ural fo u s t o j udge by c omp arison I r ,

F F 2
48 6 R E T UR N TO KA ASS
R

We desce n ded t he m o untain an d rap i d y r e

t urn ed to Karass where we fou n d Mr Jack ready
,

t o rece i ve us i n to his ho u se i n the m ost hospitable

.

,
K O N S T A NT i N O G6R SK

.
l .

m a n n er ; an d I was n ot a little pleased at the op

or t u n i ty I had of j o i n i n g the private fa m ily de
p
v otion s of a S cotch clergym an so re m ote fro m ou r
co u n try; A m aid servan t who talked br oa d -
,

S c ot c h ,
attracted our n otice ; bu t what was our '

s u rprise on bei n g i n for m ed that she w a s on e of the

ch i ldren of the Ci rca ssia n s who had bee n bo ught ,

fro m her pa re n ts ed u cated i n the colo n y stead

, ,

i ly followed its fortu n es an d w as n ow a S in cere ,

Christian Joh n Abercro m bie an other of these

.
,

con verts an d a ran s o m ed Circass i an called upon

, ,

l
m e at Moscow i n 1 8 2 2 an d I took hi m for a ,

Scotch m an I w as abou t to prese n t a glass of w i n e

.

t o hi m whe n the ge nt le m an w ho m he acco m pan i ed

,

l

s ai d,
Joh n is m y servan t Sir
.
, .

O n th e 6t h J un e w e arr i ved at an ear y ho ur , ,

at K on stan t i n og r s k an d se n t ou r cards t o Ge n eral

,

Dsbou t wh o gave us a very ki n d recepti on

, We .

fo un d hi m an i n te l ige n t an d i n teresti n g m an He .

cam e to R us s i a whe n he was o n ly seven years of

age an d has passed the last t e n years of his li fe i n
,

the v ici n ity of the Cau cas u s an d has occ upied h i s ,

leisu re ho u rs i n c o m pos in g an i n teresti n g R ussi an

work wh i ch he allowed u s to exa m i n e an d whic h
, ,

wr ot e gre e ably t o t he dic t at e s of m y s ensatio s an d belie f

a n .

My frie nd adm its howe e r that it is a m os t im p osing ie w

, v , v .

D E P A R T UR E . TH E P O DK I JM A . 437

bears the followi n g title : A n A cco un t of the

L i n e of the Cau cas u s an d of the Forces of the

l
,

K oz ak s of the Black Sea ; or Ge n eral O bse r vatio n s

,

respecti n g the Colo n ised Regi m e n ts which g u ard

the n eighbo u ri n g Mou n tai n Tribes H e i n form ed .

u s that e v ery Th u rsday there was a reg ular guard

,

provided to acco m pan y i n valids or v isi tors fro m

, , ,

K on s tan ti n ogor sk to K i s av dsk ii ; bu t he was so

obligi n g as t o order a special gu ard of six K oz ak s ,

with who m we depar ted D u ri n g the rst twe n ty

.

versts we chan ged our g u ard three ti m es The .

l
road had hitherto led thro ugh a plai n frequ en tly ,

l
by the ban ks of the Podk um a ; bu t as we were soo n ,

to e n ter the dele of the m o un tain s W here there ,

was m ore dan ger of attack the u n der ofc e r c om ,

-

m a n di n g a s m all redo ubt wished to se n d t e n s o d iers

with u s This we refused as w e shou d have been
.
,

detain ed by walki n g at the rate the soldiers chose ,

but by in t reaty we got ou r K oz k s au gm ent ed to

, ,

eight i n n u m ber The precedi n g n ight had been

.

very s ultry an d the m orn in g op p ressively warm

, ,

l
an d we were ove r take n by a viole n t stor m of wi n d

a n d rai n ,after a good deal of th u n der We were .

shown a cavern i n t he c alcareou s rock i n which ,

t we n ty Circassian s had lately bee n destroyed by

l
s uffocation i n c on se qu e n ce of havi n g ki n d e d a
,

re sh u t u p the apert u re an d gon e to sleep

, , .

A fter wi n di n g a m o n g high m ou n tai n s so m e of ,

which were bleak an d sterile whi le others were ,

covered w ith woo d an d pass ing som e p a tr v

,

F r 3
43 8 T HE P O DK M A .
K I SL AV 6D S K I I .

stream s i t w as n ecessary t o ford the Podki i m a
, ,

w h i ch we fo un d owi n g wi t h great rap i dity The .

K oz ak s havi n g preceded u s an d so u n ded the bot ,

t om w i th the i r la n ces we passed i n the carriage ,

.

The wate r r eached above the horses girths an d ,

there was c on siderable dan ger of bei n g carr i ed

away by the force of the stream As the Pod .

l

ki i m a frequ e n tly chan ges its cou rse it is n ecessary ,

to exam i n e be fore e n teri n g it for it beco m es s o

thick an d tu rb ulen t that the botto m i s n ot see n .

B y the ban k s of th e r i vu let Narz an a we reached

K i s av dsk i i an d a s ce n ded to t he fortress where the
, ,

co m m an d a n t offered u s t w o low lthy apart m e n ts ,

fro m w hich we were glad t o escape It bei n g .

yet too early i n the season t he Kal m u ck Tartars ,

h ad n ot arr ived t o pitch the i r k i bit k as or portable

felt covered te n ts upo n t he s u rro u n di n g hills
-
,
.

A m erchan t of Astrach an had cau sed e ight

w oode n ho u ses each we i gh i n g 2000 po od s to b e
, ,

l l
tra n sp orted fro m the n ce an d erected h ere on spe , ,

c ulati on All of the m were u nfurn ished but still

.
,

they proved a great accom m odati on to stran gers .

I n on e of these w e took u p our abode for t he n igh t .

K i s avodsk i i is beyon d the i n e of the R u ssian

dom in i on s bu t the R u ss i an s have take n e n tire pos
,

l
sess i o n of the n eighbo uri n g districts for the sake ,

3
A ki bi tka be i g
n th e n am e of a v e ry c om m on e
q p g ui a e, in
R uss i
a, I c ou ld n ot hi k
t n of a h
t ent , w e n I rs t h r ea d i ts app i

i
c at on in t hat sens e .
 K I SL A V DS K I I . A C I D UL O U S S PR I N GS . 439

of the m i n eral waters an d have erected a s m all ,

l
shabby redo ubt like those on the li n e of th e K ub an
, ,

l
on an ele v ated sit u atio n to protect visitors agai n st
,

the i n c u rsio n s of the Circassian s A baz i an s an d other , ,

m o u n tai n tribes The n eighbo u ri n g co u n try has bee n

.

pro n o un ced on e of the n e st in the wor d

bu t we
it
,

fo u n d K i s av d sk i i a bleak barre n spot s u rro un ded ,

by hills an d m o u n tai n s of variou s form s but v ery ,

u n pro d u cti v e an d al m ost ba re of wood I n n e

'

.
,

war m even in gs whe n the place is crowded with c om

,

pa n y an d the vall ey reso un ds with m irth an d m u si c

, ,

it m ay have a di ffere n t aspect ; bu t it was on e of the

gloo m iest places in the world d u ri n g ou r short stay .

The acid u lo us spri n gs which ow fro m the n eigh

l l
h o a ri ng hills have bee n lo n g k n own an d held i n ,

rep ute by th e n atives who call the m N ar Z ein a

, ,
-
,

or the dri n k of heroes an d by the Tartars w ho , ,

n a m e the m A c hi S u or acid ulated water They -

, .

have bee n exam i n ed by L ovitz Pallas and Su c har f, , ,

an d i f I m istake n ot also by Gu d e n st ae dt an d
'

, ,

Gm eh n More lately they were descr ibed by Dr

. .

H aas of Mosco w i n a q u arto vol um e ; a work

, ,

which m ay be reco m m e n ded to those who wan t t o

k n ow the m i n utest details respecti n g the differe n t
spri n gs as well as the d i seases for w hi c h they are
,

l
i n u se the n at u re of the cli m ate &c r They ar e
, , .

stron gly i m pregn ated with carbon ic acid gas an d ,

L e t te rs fr m t h C
o e a uc as us a n d G e orgia , &c .

1 Ma
~
Vi it e a E a x
s ux u dA

e x an d r e , en 1 8 09 et 181 0
.

M os c ou .

F F 4
 l l
440 D E L I CA C Y or TH E R u ss rA N s

l
.
.

they h ave been recom m e n ded i n the s am e d i sease s

for whi ch the w aters of Se t z e r of E gra an d A t w as , ,

l
s e r are u sed Pallas bestowed u po n the m the appella .
.

t i on of W ater s of A e x an der wh i ch i s still retai n ed ,

.

They are frequ e n ted by ei ghty or a h un dred i n di v i

l
d u al s ann u ally an d a r e l ikely t o be m u ch u sed i f
, ,

the plan s of Ge n eral Ye r m oof be adopted It i s .

s ai d that this o fcer w i shes t o expe n d or

rou ble s i n arran gi n g th e baths at K on st an
t i n og r sk an d K i s av dsk ii i n an elegan t m an n er i n ,

b ui ldi n g h o u ses for v is i tors an d i n proc u rin g every

,

other co n ve n i e n ce .

The sprin gs have ofte n chan ged the i r c ou r se ,

an d even bee n i n terr u pted by the w an to n m i schie f

of the n ati ves There i s a bas i n abo ut tw elve feet

.
,

i n le n gth an d si x or eight i n breadth regu larly

, ,

for m ed thro ugh which n e fou n tai n s throw u p the i r

,

waters f oam i n g an d sparklin g like cham pagn e

, .

The te m peratu re of these w aters i s betw ee n 5 5

an d 5 7 of E ah Their che m i cal co m pos iti on

.
,

accordin g to the latest an alysis i s detailed t o ,

tedio u sn ess by Dr H aas whose work m ay be

.
,

called a pan egyri c r ather than an i m parti al hi st or y

The baths for ladies an d gen tle m e n were i n a

wretched co n di ti o n close t o each other an d on ly
, ,

l
i n closed by basket work The followi n g accou n t
- .

of t he m give n by Dr K i m m el
, i n 1 8 1 2 is a m u s
.
, ,

F or an ac c ou n t of t h e roc k s an d p la n t s at Kis av d sk n the

reader m ay c on s u lt Palla s.
 M O UN T E L B O R U S . 44 1

i ng, gi ves an excelle n t idea of the delicacy

l
o f t he R u ss i an s who the n freq u e n ted the m ,

a n d form s on e of the best i llu stration s of R us

ll
sian character whic h ever i ss u ed fro m the n a
ti ve press H e says A qu elq u es pas de la
.
,

so urce i y a u n gran d tro u dan s la terre par le qu el

, ,

l ea u passe A u to u r de cet e n droi t on a fait u n e
.

l

e n cie n te de pai e e t de rosea u x e t c est 1a qu o n ,

l l
pre n d les bai n s fro i ds L e s an n es prcde n tes e t .
,

m em e au co m m e n ce m e n t de a saiso n actu elle les ,

dam es e t oi e n t obliges d y aller a u ss i b i en que les ,

m essie u rs ; car i n y av oi t pas d au t r e ba i n a u s si ,

l ll
e ut i beau co up de d sagr m e n s les un s e t les
-
,

au tres devan t s at t e n dr e m utu elle m e n t Pou r oh .

vi er a cette i n co m m odit Mo n s i e ur e S n ateu r ,

O br sk o a fai t arran ge r a c ot u n bai n po u r les

'

l
da m es I est tabli so u s n u d i Tartare e t par
.

co n squ e n t beauc oup m i eu x guard q u e cel ui des

l

the 7 th ( gth N S ) of J une at six o clock
On
. .
,

i n the m orn i n g t he t her m o m eter s un k to 5 0 of F ah

, .

an e x t r aor di n ar low te m perat u re for the ti m e of

y

ar i n th i s cli m ate

y e .

l
Th e E bor u sn th e lofti est m o un tai n of the Cau
L

r c rit e d
L e tt es u V oy g e d M c ou u C
s an s n a e os a au c ase ,

p Mo 1 81 2 s c ou ,

ll
. .

1 Th E bo eE lb r E lb r u z E lburz o A lb rz i
r us , om e
u n s, , , r u , s s

t im ll d by t h ti th Sh t o S h k G m b t c
e na ves e r ac - u

es c a e a , u , a

co rdi g t P ll th Cir i
n o
_
a as ,ll i t 0 i m M h o t h e
e c ass an s ca s as ua , r

H ppy M o t i ;
a d the A k
un a n O r n ub
an Mr G l ase s , . . en

Scot / i i t i t o A bur ow
s r es nJ p 37 r s. our n a ,
. .
4 49 S PR I N GS AT K O N S TA N Ti N oc nsx .

cas u s an d on e of the highest on the globe w as

, ,

altern ately see n i n s ulated an d showi ng t w o con ical ,

s u m m its on e m u ch higher than the other an d

, ,

obsc u re d by passi n g clo u ds Accordi n g to Pallas, .

this m o un tai n yields i n n othin g to Mo n t Blan c i n ,

l l
Swi tzerland It was m eas u red som e years ago by
.
, ,

Colo n el Bout sov sk i i who est i m ate d i t s h eight at ,

Parisian or E n glish feet above the

, ,

level of t he sea I f this state m en t b e correct

. ,

m o un t E bor u s exceeds m o un t Bla n c (whic h is o n y

i n height m ore tha n QOOO feet .
*

We return ed by the sa m e road to Ko n stan ti n o

l
r sk an d break fasted wi t h G e n eral D sbou t an d
g , ,

th e n proceeded to exam in e the celebrated warm

s u lph u reou s sprin gs w hich form the Aix la chapell e ,
- -

of the R u ssian do m i n io n s an d have the i r so u rce i n ,

the hill cal e d M e st c hi rc ha I n our way th i th er .
,

ou r atte n tio n w as arrested by a fair or sale of ,

horses at wh i ch we fou n d K al m u cks Tartars Cir

, , ,
.

cassian s Georgian s an d R u ssian s assem ble d We

, , ,
.

saw n o n e of the beau tiful an im al s wh i c h w e had

expected to have fo un d here I n deed it w as r ather

lll
.

a sale of carri age horses an d is held week ly d u ri n g ,

s um m er to s u pply the vis itors an d i n val i ds of K on

Vid e L e tt re s ur e Cau c ase e t a G e orgie & c 2 3 o t h e
s ,
. r,

E glish Tra slat io of this w ork whi c h w a lat ly p ubli h e d i

n n n , s e s n

e ry e l e g a t m a er a d b i di i d ua w h o w a c om p e
'

a v n nn
a n n n s
y , v

t e t fo t h e t as k h e u de rt ook
n r s Th e additi o al p lat e s a d t h e
n . n , n

no t e s of t h e t ra slat or g i n addit i o al , al u e t o t h e
ve ol u m e n v v .

Th ori gi al w ork i w rit t

e n i a li e ly rom a t i c s t yl e b t oft e n
s en n v n , u

fails i n c o e yin g t he re q uisit e or th e m ost ac c urat e i n form ation

nv .
 BA T H S . 448

s t an ti n o r sk w i th thesean i m als for th ei r carriages

g .

The K al m u ck s h ad j u st
arri ved accordi n g to their ,

an n u al c u sto m with their k i bit k a s or covered felt

, ,

te n ts which they were b u sily occ up i ed i n pitchi n g

,

l
u po n the plai n i n order to let the m at a xed price
, ,

by the week m o n th or s eason t here bei n g a great

, , ,

wa n t of acco m m odatio n for stran gers .

l
O ver the hot spri n gs a s m all ed i ce wi th c o
, ,

u m n s has bee n lately erected an d has a han dso m e

, ,

appearan ce It i s well represen ted by the vig n ette

.

of this c hapter T h e i n terior apart m e n ts are ele

.

an t tted u an d the baths are large an d v ery

g y p ;
n eatly c u t ou t of the solid rock Their te m peratu re .

bei n g 1 0 6 of F ah they felt excess i vely hot It r e

. .

l
q uired t e n m i n u tes before I fairly e n tere d t he bath
to the chi n h av i ng bee n obliged to proceed i n the
,

slowest m an n er an d i t was i m possible to re m ai n

,

there lon g O n e of our party cou ld n ot e n ter the

.

bath at a the heat bein g to hi m qu ite i n supp or ta

,

ble The roo m s were lle d with stron g s u lph u reou s

.

vapo u rs an d a pipe con veyed cold water so as to

, ,

l
e n able every bat her to u se a ny te m perat ure he
please d or that was prescribed by th e reside n t phy
,

si c i an or rather I o u ght to say th e physician

, ,

who i s appoi n ted by the crown to reside at the m i

l
n eral w aters of K on stan t i n o o r sk an d K i s av od sk i i
g .

A fter leavi n g the bath we exa m i n ed an othe r

l
,

spri n g whic h owed i n to an op en basi n covered

by a deposi t of s ulph ur an d w ho s e te m perat ure ,

6
w as 1 1 2 Fa .
4 44 TH E M E O T R H UK A K O N S T A N T i N oe on sx

l
.

In asce n di n g the M e st c hi i c ha we saw an i m ,

m e n se ss u re an d d i ffere n t cavern s i n the rock

, , ,

from which iss u ed ab u n dan ce of s ulph u reo u s v a

po urs Highe r up this bi we re m arked an other

.

l
fo u n tai n w hich was som ewhat war m i n a state of
, ,

effervesce n ce an d slightly acid ulou s ; an d w h at

, ,

was m ore re m arkable at a short distan ce fro m it , ,

we fo un d a s ulph u reou s an d acidu lo u s cold spri n g .

Con sequ e n tly t he M e st c hi i c ha contai n s m i n era
foun tai n s i n i ts boso m by the m ixtu re of wh i c h ,

an te m perat u re c an be e m ployed e i th e r for dr i n k

y
i n g or bat hi n g .

K on st an ti n og r sk for m s on e of the re d o ubts of

l
t h e Ca u casian li n e an d i n cl u des woode n an d
,

earthe n barracks an d som e s m all h ou ses for the c om

,

m a n di n g o fcers It i s s u rro un ded by a ditch an d

.
,

a doze n of cann o n defe n d its ram parts At a short .

l
'
distan ce is the s oboda or s ub u rb w hich con tai n s a
, , ,

n u m ber of paltry woode n an d clay covered ho u ses -

,

of a very m ea n appear an ce exceptin g three or ,

fo u r an d the n ewly erected habitation of Ge n eral

,
-

Ye r m oof w ho m ean s to i m prove this wateri n g

,

place an d to e n cou rage i t by h i s prese n ce an n u

,

ally d u rin g a short tim e i n s um m e r M ost of the

, . i

ho u ses co n sist o n ly of t w o apartm en ts belon g t o ,

soldiers who have retu rn ed fro m the servi ce an d ,

are let at a high pri ce W e e n tered so m e s m all .

shops whi ch were well stocked with provision s an d

,

l ux u ries wh i ch were very d ear The Don w i n e

"
, .
,

r e d an d wh i te was m u c h dran k d uri n g the heat

,
 VI SI T To A C I R CA S SI A N V I L L AG E . 4 45

of the day by the nu m ero u s v i sitors ; bu t they

,

ge n erally br i n g stores with the m fro m Moscow or ,

fro m so m e on e of the govern m e n t town s They are .

l
s upplied w ith cheese b utter chicke n s he n s eggs , , , , ,

lam b veal vegetables an d fru it by the Scotch

, , , ,

colo n y I n so m e of the s hops the arm s of the

.
,

m o un tai n tribes of the Cau cas u s are sold as , ,

po n iards (called k i ngj

l l
, a
) k n ives sabres g u n s , , , ,

pistols an d eve n co m plete dresses an d u n i form s

, .

The n u m ber of in valid s som eti m es am oun ts to

Q OO or eve n 3 00 d u ri n g a s easo n
, , .

Mr Jack had com e a o n g with so m e fr i en d y

.

lll
Ci r c ass i ans on p u rpose to j oi n u s at Ko n stan ti n o
gorsk an d to co n d u ct u s to their ho u ses A fter
, .

a drive of abou t fo u r versts we reached thei r village ,

a t the foot of B e sh t au It was i n closed by a pali ng .

of basket work which after a ighti n g we e n tered

-
, , ,

by a w i cket A n um ber of wo m e n m iserably

.
,

dressed m ade their escape bu t the chi d re n a

, , ,

m ost i n a state of n u di ty re m ai n e d for a fe w m i ,

l
n u t e s to gaze at u s O n e blac k eyed g i rl of a.
-
,

v ery dark co mplex i o n wi th a fe w tattered clothes , .

on her an d w ith a n aked ch ild i n her arm s re

, ,

m i n de d u s of the savages of A m er i ca an d I n dia .

The Uz deen or n oble who w as wel dressed an d

, ,
-

very clean con d u cted u s past a n u m ber of wicker

,
.

work clay-plastered hou ses on e of which had been ,

blown down the precedin g n ight an occ u rren ce ,

w hi c h i s v e r y co m m on an d w hi c h i s gre atly fac i

t
,
 l
44 6

i t at e d
they co n sist an d by each stan di n g separate fro m

,

the others O ur host s w ife had r etreated to her

.
C I R CA S S I A N

by the lightn ess of the m ateri als of w h i c h

REP AST .

ow n apart m e n t an d n o pers u asio n co u ld i n d u ce

,

hi m to prese n t u s to h er We saw an d co n versed .

,

however thro ugh Mr Jack w i th his m other an

, .
, ,

old wo m an who had a dign ied deportm e n t We

, .

were shown i n to a s m all roo m w ith the r e plac e ,

-

on on e side an d a very low so fa

, w ith c u shio n s , ,

on the othe r the wall bei n g h un g n ot w i th ta

, ,

l
e st r b u t w i th wove n straw an d c overed with
p , y ,

Circassian re arm s swords an d pon i ar ds This , , .

n oble w i shed to kill a sheep for our e n te r ta i n m e n t ,

but as w e refu sed to await its preparation a s m all ,

ow r o u n d table wi tho u t table cloth k n ives fork s

,
-
, , ,

or plates w as covered by m illet boiled i n m ilk

, ,

like pieces of p u d din g I n the c e n tre was placed .

a woode n d i sh con tain in g pieces of n e w c h eese

, ,

l i k e c u rd wh i ch had been toasted with b utter

,

an d ho n ey At an other table h i s ch ildren an d

.
, ,

s o m e othe r gi rl s partook of the s a m e far e whic h

, ,

l l
they h elped th em selve s t o w i th the i r han ds T hey .

were all dresse d i n gau dy colours an d walked i n ,

high patten s They w ere very n e gi rls an d m o s t

.
,

of the m h ad beau ti ful featu res .

We gave our h ost So im an A baz k oi e f, a t en ,

rouble n ote un der the n am e of his elde st dau ghte r

, .

An other Uz de en or n oble Sh ora w ho had a s o , ,

.

j oin e d u s at Konst an ti n ogr sk an d ac c om p an i ed ,

 A NO B L E W H I P M AK E R - . P R E SE N T S . 4 47

l
l
us to the village e m ploys hi m sel f as a whip ma ke r
,
-
,

an d fro m h i m we bo u ght a n u m ber O f Circassian

whips for fo u r t e n an d eve n ftee n ro ubles ;

, , , ,

those at the last price havi n g a s m all dagger i n the

han d e A O f the m were re m arkably well m ade
. .

As we proceeded to Karass we co u ld n ot help ,

bei n g a m u sed at the co m pon e n t parts of our party .

A Scotch priest m ou n ted as am o n g his n ati ve

,

hills an d a Circass i a n n oble an d whip m aker on

,
-
,

his bea u tiful steed rode side by side or t r i e d , ,

the sp eed of the i r horses agai n st on e a n other as ,

'

we were whirled alo n g by the R uSSI an i svosz chzk s

who s un g with great an i m ati on I n the eve n i n g .

,

Soli m an a n d an other n oble a Nogay m ir z a or

, , ,

prin ce whose village was i n an u proar an d w h o

, ,

had bee n to co m plai n to the m il i tary a uthorities at

K on st an t i n ogOr sk m ade u s a v i s i t an d were
, ,

h ighly pleased wi th the presen ts we m ade the m

O f E n gl i sh razors as was also our fai th fu l at
,

te n dan t Sh ora The latter we fo un d to be a cleve r

.

i n telligen t m an who both spoke an d wrote R us

,

sian very well ; his occ upati o n proclai m ed that

he was n ot rich but yet he had a n oble m i n d
, ,

an d perhaps o n ly awaits an O ppo r t u n ity to di st i n

gu ish h i m sel f M r Jack havi n g i n form ed u s that

. .
,

he had bee n at di fferen t ti m es on the poi n t Of

becom i n g a con ver t t o th e Chri stian r eligion an d ,

o n ce h ad con se n ted to be baptise d an d t hen .

,

relapsed i n to h i s M ahom e dan i deas an d O pi ni on s ,

 4 48 UTI L I T Y OF M R . J A CK .
M O U NT A I N TR I BES .

I e n tered i n to a lo n g co n versati o n wi th hi m an d ,

was eq ually s u rprised at his k n owledge an d h i s

powerful m ode O f
Altho ugh the Scotc h colo n y had n ot as yet bee n
atte n ded with all the su ccess wh i ch was to be
wi shed Mr Jack was i n g r eat hopes O f be i n g u lti
, .

m ately s u ccess ful i n the O bj ect O f h i s m iss i o n He .

was upon excelle n t ter m s as w e had op p ortu n iti es

,

O f wit n ess i n g both w i th the ch i e fs Of the Nogay

,

Tartars an d those of the C i rcass i an s Havi ng

, .

gai n ed their co n de n ce an d esteem he i s likely to ,

beco m e u seful ; an d the n tho ugh on ly establ i shed

,

for abo u t t w o years at Karass he had s u cceeded ,

i n obtai n i n g a heari n g fro m the n at i ves w h o h ad ,

also s ub m i tted to be catech i sed .

All the m o un tai n tri bes of the Cau cas us see m to

have s o m e afn iti es an d t o w i sh t o con ti n u e the
,

m ode of li fe of the ir an cestor s L ittle give n t o .

agr i c ultu re they support th e m selves by h u n ti n g

, ,

r obbi n g an d feed i n g cattle

, Th ey l i e i n a m b u sh
.

an d at o n ce se i z e the ir prey or m ake an attac k upo n

,

sm all parti es whe n su re of v i ctory The y carry

, .

O ff m e n , wo m e n ch i ldre n cattle prov i s i on s an d

, , , ,

i n deed every m oveable that fall s i n th e ir way .

T he ir great obj ect i s t o take pri s on ers of high

ran k for who m t hey O btain a large r an so m an d
, ,

Sh Or a i s p ok e n of by Mr Glen (p
s .
, . He pp e are d
a

t o be e ry c u
v i g and p erhap s h e reaps som e
nn n adv anta es from
, g
hi s attac hm e n t t o t he m issionaries .
 A R TI F ICE . M A HO M E DA N I S M . 449

they treat the m severely an d eve n cr u elly i n order , ,

that they m ay give an acco un t of their affli ctio n s

to their frie n ds by letters which are s u re to be for ,

warded As the ra n so m e depe n ds upon the lives

.

O f their priso n ers they are pec uliarly carefu l to

,

preserve the m Si n ce the R u ssian s have acqui red

.

Georgia the m o un tai n eers have m ad e m an y p r i

,

so u ers an d O btai n ed great ran so m es ; but of late

'

the g uards O f the m ou n tai n passes have been

stre n gthe n ed an d a severe n ay eve n barb arous
, , , ,

policy has bee n p u rs u ed which has greatly i n ti ,

m i d at e d the Circassian h ighlan ders Th e R u s .

sian s were form erly i n the habit O f sen di n g preda

tory ban ds of the K oz ak s a m on g the m o un tai n eers ,

i n order to retaliate for their i n c u rs i o n s an d they ,

were s u ccess fu l i n their Obj ect ; but un fortun ately ,

for the m at ti m es they i n trod u ce d the plagu e

,

am o n g the m selves a disease which ofte n r ages ,

a m o n g the m o un tai n s an d again st wh i ch n o m ean s

,

are e mployed ; the n atives like the Tar tar s an d tr ue , ,

l
disciples O f M aho m ed havi n g the stro n gest belief ,

i n fatalis m They have great advan tages over

.

their e ne m ies for when they wish it they r etreat

, , ,

to their rocky an d i n accessible fastn esses an d gu ar d ,

th eir d e e s The Chri s tian religio n whic h w as

.
,

for merly tau ght am o n g the pri m itive m ou ntai n s of

the Cau cas u s is n ow al m ost e n tirely u n k n own
, ,

the n ativ es havi n g beco m e either M ahom e dan s

- -

or idolaters I t i s tr u e a fe w of the O sse ti -

.
~ .

,
t

V OL . I . G G
45 0 F R I E N D L Y C I R CA S S I A N S .

n i an s at Kazb ek an d its vici n ity profess Chr i s

, ,
s

l
t i an i ty but they are decie n t i n the k n owledge O f
,

its pri n ciples .

l l
A n u m ber O f C i rcassian fa m il i es w ho d w ell on ,

the n orth side O f the Ca u casi an lin e of defen ce ,

an d are called F r i en d y Ci r c assi ans tho ugh n ot real ,

s u ye c ts of R u ss i a yet m ay b e regarded i n a c on
, ,

sid e r ab e degree as subj

e c ts to that power
, They .

preserve their an cie n t habits an d m an n ers an d .

,

m ode o f livi n g but they dare n ot pass t he i n e with

,

ou t e r m i ssi on fro m the R u ssian go v er n m e n t n or

p
~
,

visit an y town after havi n g obtai n ed it w ithout ,

s ubjectio n to the qu aran tin e The C i rcassian .

priests an d even the peasan ts like the K r i m e an

,
~

l
Tartars frequ en tly m ake pilgri m ages to Mecca
, ,

an d t hu s i n trod u ce the plag u e which produ ces the ,

greatest c on stern ation an d has te n ded greatly to ,

depop u late the Cau casu s The Nogay T ar tars.

,

who live on the n orth Of the li n e of the Cau cas u s ,

are subject to the sam e form alities as the F r i en d y

l
Ci r c as si an s Neither Of those tribes dare rob or
.

steal open ly but i t is s u spec t ed that they som eti m e s

,

do so clan desti n ely an d also that they m ain tai n a

,

correspo n de n ce with their brethre n on the other

side of the ine an d furn i sh the m with i n form ati on
,

which gu ides s om e Of th eir predatory i n curs i on s .

The R ussian s have u sed all possible efforts by ,

force an d attery to tam e those erce an d vali an t

,

barbari an s who wi th som e r eason regard the m as

, , ,

i ntruders upon the i r terr i tori es an d have sworn to ,

 l
M O UNT A I NE E R S IN TH E R USSI AN SE R VI CE . 45 1

accept of n o con diti o ns and t o m ake n o term s of

\
,
-

peace u n til they evac u ate their d e e s Ki m m el

, .

tells u s that i n 1 8 1 2 he kn ew Kabardi an pri n ce s

, ,

who were i n the R u ssian servi ce on e O f W ho m had ,

the ran k of a Colon el the other that of a Maj or , ,

an d w e heard of a Circass i an n oble who held a

-

rank i n th at arm y when at K on st an ti nogi nsk , .
B

The govern m e n t am on g m ost O f the m oun tai n

l
tribes i s fe u dal ; an d the n atives are d i vi ded i n to
three classe s the pri n ces the n obles an d the
, , ,

peasan ts besides the pri ests T he n obles have

, .

slaves who desce n d to them by i n heritance bu t

, ,

whom they dare n ot sel The peasan ts work for .

the n obles an d take car e of thei r cattle The

, .

n obles co n trib u te to the s upport of their p r i n ces by

fu rn i shi n g the m with horses an d cattle .

Pallas an d Klaproth have give n i n teresti n g ac

cou n ts of the C i rcassian s ; an d Dr Clarke has als o .

treated O f the m at som e le ngth so that I shall at ,

prese n t refer the reader for details to t hese author s , , .

We bade Mr Jack an d the other m em bers of

S om e of t h e l O ss e t i n i an s,
Tc hi tc h t si e an d a s o O f t he en , ar

lik e wi f c r i t h R ia er i c e Mr Gle i o e of
se O e s n e uss n s v . . n, n n

h i s i it i t h
v s s i ghbo rhood of K aras p k of S ltan
n e ne u s, s ea s a u

who t e d a p i t qf
ac s ki d of i il of ce r m o g t he Ta
r s or a n c v a n r

l
, ,

t r
a s d w h h d t h e t itl a d p ay of a R ussi
an o a g eral h had
e n an en e

be en at P t r b rgh ie e s h i y o th w h r h h ad c c e
u n t o g od
s u , e e e a ss o

co mp y h e w a hre wd m a d pp ar tly of a i q i i
an s a s an, n a en n n u s

ti
ve t r
u n o fmi d d hi k owle dg of t h e p oliti s of E urop e
n , an s n e c

w as o side r abl e
c n Jo p a d p 490; of this vol um e
. ur na , . n . .

G O Q
 DEL L AR PA L O
V V SKA Y A
'

45 2 NE .

the Scotch colo ny adi eu an d retu r n e d to G ecr , ,

i v sk where we m ade bu t a short stay

g ,
.

O n the 9t h Jun e vi e left Ge orgi evsk abo u t hal f r

,

past six i n the m orn in g ; an d after a rapid driv e ,

of 1 1 5 versts over le v el dry an d excelle n t roads , , ,

we reached M oz d k at half past fo u r o clock i n the
aftern oon thou gh we had bee n detai n ed at on e of
,

the stations till the horses were bro ught fro m the
.

elds T O preve n t this oc c ur r e n c e a secon d t im e

.
,

we gave the ur i ddm h or u n der ofc er at each of

'

-
, ,

l
the statio n s as well as the Kozak gu ards liberally
, ,

l
!

for dri n k m on ey an d e m ployed on e O f the latte r

-
,

as an a van t cour i er who preceded u s with the p o

,

d or an d got the ho rses ready by the ti m e of

'

ne
y ,

ou r arri v a O n e of the stages betwee n Proch

.
,

adn aya an d Ye k at e r i n ogr ad we r an i n an ho u r an d ,

two m i n utes a distan ce of seve n tee n versts or

, ,

n early ele ve n an d a hal f m iles .

l l

A fter havi n g forded the PO dki I m a we re m arked ,

that G eorgi evsk had a for m idable appearan ce fro m

the so uth o n acco un t of its s itu atio n on the high
,

ban ks of that ri v er Near Pavlovskaya we crossed .

a s m a l r iver where th ere is a rapid hil t o asce n d

, ,

an d we were obliged to walk I n th i s dell the Cir .

c assi an s w e r e for m
'

erl y won t to m ake their attacks .

We were powerfully str u ck w ith a bea uti ful s m all

dell or valley on t he left i n the m iddle of sur
, , ,

rou n di n g step s whose decli vitou s sides we re covered,

w ith woo d an d its ce n tre lled with garde n s The

, .

v illages bes i des those at so m e O f the stat i o n s were

, ,
 l
YE K A T E R IN O GR AD . P AV L O DO L SK O YE . 45 3

l
fe w i n ber Ye k ate r i n ogr ad which w as o n ce
'

n um

.
,

i n te n ded to hav e bee n a gov ern m e n t town , m ay be

recko n ed a large v i l age with a fortress an d the , ,

u n n i she d T r i bun a s falli n g i n to r u i n s

The M al k a .
'

l
l
is a co n siderable river bu t the water is extre m ely ,

m uddy Fr o

l
. m Ye k at e r i n ogr ad t he co un try beco m es
m ore pleasan t an d the v iews i n cl u de gree n plai n s
,

wit h scattered trees an d the gen tle hills O f Ci r c assi a:

,

When we arrived at Pav odO sk oy we were told ,

b y the ur i ddn i r j u st be fore e n teri n g the gate

, ,

that there were n o post horses but that he had -

, ,

give n orders an d we sho uld n d the m i n the

,

v illag e We accordi n gly proceeded whe n the

.
,

K oz ak s who had bee n se n t be fore u s cam e u p an d

, , ,

said there were n o hor se s The stdr ost was fo un d .

,

l
a n d he r an fro m ho u se to ho u se an d gave orders ,

while the K oz ak s were equally as b u sy havi n g r e ,

c e i v e d per m issio n to take horses w herever they

co uld n d them The whole village was i n an u p
.

roar M e n wo m e n boys an d girls e d out their

.
, , , ,

harn essed horses fro m every door an d Viole nt dis ,

p u tes arose as to whose sho uld be take n as n o n e were ,

willin g to give the m tho ugh n ecessitated to obey ,

t h e m an date When we set off; we left abou t

.

twe n ty horses behi n d us an d as we had paid well ,

l
for those we had received the peasan ts were u lti ,

m ately well pleased as we had an O p p or t un i ty o f

,

learn i n g upon ou r ret urn I m e n tio n this ci r c um .

stan c e t o Show h ow absol ute power is u sed i n a

'

despoti c cou n try Whe n the pos t horses ar e a .

- /

G G 3
 45 4 I TS P O PU L A TI O N .

out , ther e is an un d
erstan di n g that the vill age
h orses m ay s upply their places on u rgen t occa ,

l
si o n s, but i n r egular r ou tin e O n th i s occas io n .
,

l
however n o r eg ulari ty w as O b s erved an d t he
, ,

peasan ts were forced to O bey .

O n arr i vi n g at M oz d k we procee ded d i rectly ,

'

to the police Ofc e an d the m aste r O f p o ic e im m e

'

-
,

l
di at e y or dered u s q uarters i n the ho us e of an
Arm en i an m erchan t w here we were well ac c om m o
,

d ated but ver y un welco m e gu e st s

, I n the eve n .

l
i ng we drank tea w i th the com m an d an t who m ade ,

l
a arr angem en ts for our j ourn ey to T i i s an d i r ,
.

n i shed u s w i th an or d er for horses an d a gu ard i n ,

the Cau casu s A s a powerful co n voy acco m pan i e s

.

the m ail every Satur day w e had p u rposely c a c u ,

ate d our j o urn ey so as t o arri ve at M oz d k on

,

M oz dk lie s po n t he right ban k of the Terek

u .

It i s o n e of the largest town s i n the sou th of the

R u ssian dom in i o n s an d co n tai n s a pop ulatio n O f
,

about so uls chiey Ar m e n i an s Georgian s

, , ,

an d Circassian s besides so m e R u ssian s Greeks

, , ,

Tartars Kal m u cks K oz ak s an d Jes u it Jews It

, , , .

form s a s m all e m pori u m betwee n R u ssi aan d the

Cau cas u s an d Georgi a The i n habitan ts ch iey .

live by the prod u cts of their vi n eyards garde n s , ,

m orocc o m an ufactor ies an d a ki n d of spirit p r e

,

pared fro m grapes wh i ch they se n d to R u ssia

,
- .

They kee p m an y s ilk w orm s an d the town an d -

,

n e ighbo u r hood ab ou n d i n wh i te an d r ed m u l he r
 I TS C OM M E R CE . S TR E E T S . H O USE S . 45 5

ries for thei r s upport The i r chief co m m erce

.
,
~

however is with the m oun tai n eers to whose n e

, ,

l
c es si ti e s or l u x u r i es they co n trib u te .

The streets of M od k are all straight an d regu

lar The pri n cipal on e is broader than the rest
.
,

an d its so uther n extre m ity is te r m i n ated by a

sq uare i n wh i ch are the po i ce O ffi ce a R u ssian
,
-
,

ll
ch u rch shops &c Ditches with trees growi n g
, , .
,

ou t of their m i ddle r un alo n g both sides of all the

,

streets T he ho u ses are m ostly on e story i n height

.
,

b u ilt of w ood an d covered with the sam e m ateri al

, ,

or with straw an d p aster e d wi th c ay so that the

,

w hole town wo uld have a gloo m y appearan ce were ,

it n ot for the garde n s which i n the Asiatic taste , ,

every where s urro un d the hou ses an d by their gree n , ,

shade their variou s colo ured blosso m s an d their

,
-
,

ab u n dan ce of u i t give a cheerful aspect The

, .

Ro m an Catholic chapel is the best edice i n Moz

dOk but Pater H e n ri a Jes u it priest who has O i
, , ,

c i at e d i n i t for the last ftee n years was abo u t to ,

depart i n con sequ e n ce of an I m perial u hdz c om

, ,

m an di n g all Jes u its to qu it the e m pire .

We saw m an y of the Arm en i an w o m e n here ,

an d so m e of the m see m ed as Shy as t he Tartar or

the Circassian fe m ales They are a n e race of .

people T h ey are m arried at a very early age ;

.

an d it i s n ot u n co m m o n for a m ot her to be n o

m ore th an thirtee n years of age The m ales do .

n ot th i n k of m arri age till Sixtee n eighteen or , ,

G G 4
 45 6 TH E T ER E K .
-R E D OU B T OF A L E XA ND E R .

tw en ty ; an d it O fte n happe n s that a m an of forty

l
m arries a girl O f t w elve years O f age .

We laid i n a stock O f provisio n s at M oz d k to

l
serve us to T i i s O n Sat u rday aftern oo n the
.
,

ot h O f Jun e we left that to wn ; an d after proceed

, ,

i ng abo u t six versts we ca m e to the ferry o i the

'

Terek where were asse mbled crowds of i n divid

,

u a s of di ffere n t n atio n s an d n u m ero u s eq u ipages

, ,

aro un d a fe w wattled h uts for the co n ven ie n ce

of the o fcers O f the cr ow n u ara n ti n e &c The
q , , .

l l
T erek r ises i n the ravi n es O f Mo u n t Cau cas u s n ea r ,

on e of its highest hills the Kazb ek an d bei n g

, , ,

grad ually i n creased b y m an y trib utary riv ulets an d

stream s p asses t hro ugh a rocky precipito u s chan
,

ne , till i t reaches a m ore e vel s urface A t t h e

ferry i t is a deep wide an d rapid ri v er

, ,Re .

tai n i n g an eastern directio n fro m the n ce i t pro ,

c e e ds to po u r its waters i n to the Caspia n sea by

vario us e m bou ch ures beyo n d Kisl ar This river . , ,

accordin g to m odern geographers form s the bo u n d ,

ll
ary betwee n E urope an d As i a .

The ferry is very badly a r ran ged ; bu t afte r ,

waiti n g a con siderable ti m e we s u cceeded i n ,

m aki n g our passage a n d lan ded i n Asia

, where ,

we took u p ou r q u ar t ers i n the A ex dn dr ovs f oi

R e d ut or the Redo ubt of Alexan der
, A s m all .

basket work hou se hal f s u n k i n the earth an d

-
, ,

covered with clay was allotted for u s as be i n g the

, ,

i
V de p . 38 2 . of t hi l
s v o um e .
 C O M P O SI T I O N OF A C A R A V AN . 45 7

l
bes t acco m m odation of th e place Its bare walls .

a n d da m p oor co n ce aled by an ab u n dan ce of hay

, ,

gav e it m ore the appearan ce of a stable than qu ar

ters for trav ellers ; an d for ou r com fort the sol , ,

d ier w ho atte n ded gave u s to u n derstan d that we ,

s ho uld have p e n ty O f society especially eas an d

'

b ugs as n um ero u s form er tenan ts had sl e pt u pon

,

the hay ; but we preferred walk i n g i n the Ope n

air till bed ti m e an d the n e njoyed the l u x ury of

-
, ,

sleepin g i n the carriages .

The whole caravan had n ot crossed the T erek

before n ext m or n i n g At half past seve n O clock the .
-

d r u m beat as a sign al for all to prepare to m arch by

, ,

q uitti n g the redou bt an d asse m bli n g on the road .

O ur cavalcade was of a very m otley descriptio n .

'

E le v e n K oz ak s divided i n to three parties on e i n

, ,

l
the m iddle of the road an d on e on each side an d , ,

at a co n siderable distan ce form ed the advan ced ,

g u ard O ur wh ole body of i nfan try co n sisted of

.

l
s ev e n ty sol diers who as well as the K oz k s were
, , ,

c o m m an ded by a lie u te n an t Part O f the m fo .

lowed the ce n tral K oz ak s with a three poun der ,

-

an d a powder m agazi n e each draw n by a team O f ,

horses i n their rear T he m ai car t lled w ith

,
.
-
,

large leather n bags dri ve n by a nu de cl um sy R us ,

sian fe m ale an d s urro un ded by i n fan try took the

, ,

X
==
I co ll e c t e d t he followi g pl t n an s by t h e ban k s of t h e Tre k
S t at i rice t at a c a, Pyr thr m eo u c r um bos u m , Ne pe ta Uk r am a
Phl om i p g e s un ns.
 l
45 8 C O M PO SI TI O N OF A CA R A V A N .
D E PA R T U R E .

n ext station bei n g the place of greatest sec urity.

,

l
As a m ark of r espect ou r carri ages had the post

O f ho n o ur n ext to the m ai car t assig n ed to the m

,
-
, ,

a n d were followed by abo u t a h u n dred e q u i page s

,

of vari o u s ki n ds Fre n ch calashes Polish br i tc h

.
,

ha s , R u ssian hi bithas an d te eg a s H un garian '

l
w aggo n s an d Tartar ar bas draw n by oxe n
, ,

fo r m e d the l i n e n early a m ile i n len gth The .

greatest par t Of t he R ussi an an d Tartar car ts were

'

lled with seve n ty sol di ers wives who by c om , ,

m an d of G en eral Ye r m of; govern or ge n eral of -

the Cau cas u s an d Georgia were proceedi n g to the ,

n eighbo u rhood O f T i i s to j oi n their h u sban ds for ,

the sake O f colo n i sati o n A n u m ber of these carts .

were also loaded with black bread m i llet barrels , ,

O f hvass an d eve n of vodt hi for t h e s u pport of these

, ,

l
wo m e n an d of 3 00 recr ui ts who were on their way
, ,

to s upply d e c re n CI e s i n the Georgian arm y Som e .

h u n dred horses which were goi n g from R ost f to

,

T i i s for sale were drive n for ward i n the a dj ace n t

,

elds while herds O f cattle fro m Stavr op o e for the

, ,

sam e p u rpose bro ught up the r ear , R u ssian s .

,

Georgi an s K oz ak s on b u si n ess Arm e n ian s som e

, , ,

of who m pre ferred m aki n g the j ou r n ey on horse

back w i th o u rselves Italian s an d Briton s were

, , , ,

th e represen tatives of the n ati o n s of wh i ch the c a

ravan w as co m posed .

A t the sou n d of the seco n d dr u m the p r oc e s

'

si o n as i t m ight well be called

, began ; an d very , ,

soo n afterwards the cavalcad e was for m e d by t he

, ,
 BA N I SH M E N T OF TH E T C H I T CH EN T S I . 45 9

l

lie ute n an t s orders i n to two parallel l i n es s o as t o
, ,

be m ore co m pact while the K oz ak guards rode

,

l
a ve r st i n advan ce an d on each s i de After tra
, .

ve li n g seven versts we r ested hal f an ho ur as pre ,

paratory to a p r etty rapi d ascen t am on g the m Ou n

tai n s whic h are O f co n s i derable height an d n ely
, ,

wooded It had r ai n ed all n ight an d sti l c on

.
,

ti n n ed t o rai n so that t he r oa ds were excess i vely

,

heavy an d our carri ages with great difcu lty were

,

dragged to the s um m i t of a h i ll where the cara ,

van re m ai n ed an h o u r to feed the cattle Ve the n .

desce n ded the sam e hill whose so u thern aspect

,

was m ore dreary an d bare than the n orthern an d , ,

l
after traversi n g a n e pla in we arrived at the pal,

t ry redo ubt of Ko n stan ti n situ ated n ear t h e base of

,

the n ext ran ge of m o un tain s Withi n the fortress .

we got two m i serable cham bers bu t so m ewhat ,

better than those we had left at A e x an dr ov sk oi .

We had lo n g con versatio n s with di ffere nt O ffi cers

l
w ith respect to the m ou n tai n tribes of the Caucas us ,

l
an d heard m an y relatio n s respecti n g the m bot h ,

du ri n g our dreary dri ve of twen ty m iles whic h had ,

occ up i ed u s about t w elve hou rs an d after our arri ,

v a at the place O f rest for t he n ight A n o fcer .

w ho m we m e t i n form e d u s that Ge n eral Ye r m of

,

l
was so i n ce n sed agai n st the Tc hi t c hnt si on e of ,

the m ost ferociou s an d un tam e able of the Caucasian

tribes that he was n ow se n di n g Off great c aravan s
,

O f the m to Siberia .They are seized an d kept pri

s o u er s t i a sufci e nt n um ber i s collec te d an d the n ,
4 60 R E DO UB T or C O N S TA NT I N E .

l
they ar e transported to t he E ast for li fe S urely

s uch rigoro u s policy is n either san ctio n ed by the

laws of God n or m an The Kabardia n s t oo have .

lately been expatriated an d their co un try give n to ,

others O f t h e m ore t r an q ui t r i be s I n deed I have

.
,
"

bee n i n for m ed that it i s i n te n de d to establish R us

,

sian colon i es i n these region s so as m ore e ffect ually ,

to repress the highlan ders of the Cau cas u s ; an d

this will be easily do n e as the soil is ri ch an d will , ,

yield ple n ti fu l crops i f well c ultivated , .

The fort of Co n stan ti n e i s pleasan tly Sit uated

l
a n d a s m all te m ple on an adj oi n i n g risi n g gro u n d

gives it a pict uresq u e e ffect We were s urprised .

,

w he n i n for m ed that this te m ple was erected to the

m e m ory of on e of the pri n ces of the T c hi t c h n t si ,

.

who fe l i n an e n gage m e n t bet w ee n his followe r s

a n d a party of R u ssia n s .

O n the 1 1 t h J u n e after a good n i ght s repose ; we ,

were warn ed agai n by the Sign als to p ut o u rselves

i n m otion It had rain ed all n ight the m or n i n g
.
,

was dark an d dis m al an d th e roads were i n a shock ,

i n g state By adv i ce we hir ed additio n al horses

l
.
,

for on e O f t h e carri ages an d we were afterwards ,

l
I t is t h
d e s c be d by Si r R K Po t e
us ri . . r r Th e fort
(
ca ll e d A gov i K abaki , h r i f r
ot e w s e t h e C
o t oft t i ) i on s an ne s

on e o f th R i p o iti w hi h m i t i t h p
e u s s an of t h
s on s c a n a n e as s e s e

l
m t i
oun a n s , an d i S it t d ri i g gr d t t h f t f
s ua e on a s n ou n , a e oo o a

high hill Th p o it io
. m r df t
e se rr d d by
s n s ar e e e e - or s , s u ou n e a

d it h
c . Th e i r f e f th br t w rk f t h fort w w r
nn e ac o e e as - o o e e e e

then i wn, ddit iaslly tr g th d by thi k li i g of

a on a s en ene a c n n

w i k r w rk Tr i G o gi P i &c p 5 67

c e - o a ve s er s a ,
'

. n e r a, . . .
 l
RE D OUBT OF ELI Z AB E TH . 46 1

glad that we had don e so as eve n wit h e igh t w e

"
,

a cco m plished the asce n t of seve n versts a m o n the

g ,

hills with di fc ulty w hich was great y i n creased

, ,

by the horses bei n g u n shod The sam e ki n d of .

s ce n ery was see n tod ay as yesterday ; an d d u ri n

g
t h e Short i n ter m issio n of rai n an d th e dispersio n of
the clo u ds we perceived that the co un try was v ery
,

n e varied with ge n tle elevatio n s an d valleys I n

, ,

s o m e places bare a n d i n m an y co v ered wit h wood

, .

O n ou r ret u r n fro m Georgia we e nj oyed so m e exte n

s i v e v iews fro m the tops of these m o u n tai n s ; an d

t h e i m pressio n m ade u po n ou r m i n ds w as that th e

c o un try for which the T c h i t c h n t si fo u ght was

w orthy of a str u ggle We n e ither saw vi llage n or .

,

l
h u m an bei n g i n the cou rse O f the day t ho u gh we
, ,

w ere told that there w e r e bot h at t h e distan ce of .

v e or Si x versts fro m the road H a vi n g d e s c e n d e d .

l l
t h e s eco n d ran ge O f hills be y on d t h e T r e k an d

w a ke d over the plai n at the distan ce O f thirtee n , .

v ersts fro m the statio n by perm issio n of the c om ,

m an di n g ofc e r an d with a gu ard of K oz ak s we

-
, ,

e ft t he c ar av an crossed the riv u let K am be e ik a

, ,

.a n d got pretty co m fortably lodged i n the Redo ubt

l
O f E li zab e th an other m ean fortress s urroun ded
, ,

Madam e F e yga c h ery i ac c urat ely t at e s that th

,
r n v n s e
w hi c h i c ros d b tw e M od k a d Vl dik a k az
p i
a n, s se e e n n a v ,

O ffe r othi g t o t h e i ght b t u c l t i at e d he aths

s n n s Sh h a u n u v . e s

al t og e the r forg ot t h e t w o ra g e of bill t o w hi c h I ha e all ud e d

n s s v ,

a d whic h
n , ma y pl c e s a e c ov e d w ith shrubs an d w oods
In n a ,
r eI .

Vide L etter sf om the Caucasus p 36

r , , . .
4 62 V L AD I KA VK AZ

l
.

by earthe n ram par ts an d palisades T he w ater we .

fo u n d here was so m u ddy that be fore we co u ld ,

u s e it we were obliged to e m ploy bo i li n g an d

,

l
tratio n .

O n the 1 2 th Jun e after the u s ual cere mo n i es

, ,

we p u rs u ed our j o u rn ey over roads which were i n ,

l
a horrible state the rai n h av i n g con ti n u ed all n ight,
,

an d still con ti nu i n g The ro ute to d ay was w h o v

.

throu gh a level coun try a n e an d rich plai n bu t , ,

com pletely desolate At th e distan ce of v e v ersts

.

we agai n eft th e con voy with a gu ard an d arrived , ,

at V ladi kavk az whose lively appearan ce on a

, ,

risin g grou n d at the botto m O f the gran d chain of

,

Moun t Cau cas u s som e w hat relieved the gloo m of

,

three days m ost t i reso m e m arch i n wh i ch we h ad ,

n ot travelled Sixty m iles a n d d u ri ng w hich the ,

roads were so bad an d the r ain s s o i n cessan t that

, ,

l
we cou ld n ot qu i t the carri ages with ou t gettin g
wet We got com fortably lodge d an d m ade a v iSi t
.
,

to t he govern or Colo n el Sk var t sof who m we fo un d

, ,

very obligi n g H e had j u st rece i ved a letter i n

.
,

for m i n g hi m tha t an ava a nc he had falle n beyon d

K Obi i n to t he r avi n e i n which the T erek ows
, ,

a n d r e n dered i t al m ost i m passable H e c on se .

,

qu e n tly advised u s to leave our carriages an d t o

, ,

l
m ak e the j o u r n ey t o Ti i s on h ors e bac k .

V lad i kavk az from its s i t u at i on bei n g a pla c e of

, ,

great i m portan ce deserve s parti c ular n oti ce Its

, .

n am e is a c om po un d wor d der i ved fro m the R u ss i an

,

verb e udet t o g ov er n or c omm an d and K avhaz the

, , ,
 V L AD I KAVK AZ . I TS F OR T R E S S . 4 63

R u ssian n am e Of the Ca ucas u s ; an d this appellation

l
was give n to the fortress becau se it co m m an ds on e of
the passages O f t he chai n of m o un tai n s which for m s
the alm ost i m pe n etrable barrier betwee n Asia an d
E u rope . It is belie v ed to be the key O f the fam o u s
Py e ? S ar m ati cce the P or t a Ca uc asi a or the P or t a
, ,

I be r i ca O f the an cie n ts thro ugh which the Medes

, ,

or rather their descen dan ts the S arm atian s an d

l
, ,

other n atio n s passed i n to the plai n s O f the n orth

, ,

l
an d gav e origi n to a v ariety O f n atio n s This pass .

l
i s ge n erally k n own i n m oder n ti m es by the appella
tio n P or t a Cauc asi a P or t e Ca ucasi enne or D e e
, ,

of t he T r e k The . other passage O f the Cau cas u s

was kn own to the an cie n ts u nder the n am es of Py ae
A ban i ce or Vi a Ca sp i a
, an d i n m oder n ti m es

for m s the P or t e Casp i enne or the Pass of Derbe n t , .

Becau se Pli n y describes the fortress of Ga man i a ,

so m e speak of a third m oun ta in dele tho ugh un ,

able to tell u s where it is an d it appears probable ,

that it n ever had existen ce O thers perhaps with .

,

m ore reaso n have bestowed the n am e P or t a

,

Cuma n a to the P ass o f t he T r ek as on e O f i ts ,

syn on ym es .

The R u ssian s well aware of the i m portan ce

,

of the site of V ladi kavk az resolved to erect a ,

fortress wh i ch m i ght n ot on ly serve as the head

,

qu arters of the force s on the n orth side of the

m o un tai n s but also as an e m pori um O f m il itary

stores for the n eighbou ri ng troops .

Wi th in the b oun dar i e s of the for tre ss ar e n um e

 4 64 S H O PS . D E PA R T U R E .

ro u s m agazi n es barracks an d rows of shops be

, , ,

sides so m e white washed ho u ses for the d w ellin gs

-
,

of the gover n or an d of the O fcers Th e n u m ber .

of troops statio n ed here varies accordi n g to cir ,

c u m st an c e s fro m a battalio n to a regi m e n t or t w o

, ,

but it is al w ays defe n ded by a n u m ber of ca n n o n .

The adj oi n i n g Village i n habited by O sse ti n i an s

, ,

has a very m ean appearan c e .

The shops were well s u pplied wit h every article

we desired an d eve n with m an y k i n ds of wi n e
, .

'

The weather still bei n g very un favo urable we ,

l
took a hi n t fro m the c ustom of the n atives of these
m o u n tai n o u s regio n s an d pro v ided o ursel v es with
,

bur c has of which I have already spoke n

, an d

w ith great thick white a n n el hoods called bash ,

.

i /rs which covered our cap s O n the 1 4 th of Ju n e

,
.
,

l
m o u n ted u po n good horses Shro u ded u n de r ou r ,

u n co u th bu t weathe r proo f hoods an d m an tles an d

-
,

accom pan ied by t en K oz ak s d i splayi n g their lances ,

an d as m an y soldiers with their loaded g un s we le ft ,

V lad i kavk az an d crossed the T r e k by a on g w oode n

,

bridge so c ov e r e d w ith m ud that the road rese m

, ,

bled a q uagm ire .T urn i n g to the sou th we tra v ersed ,

a plai n n ear the ban ks of the river wh i ch here ,

o w s w i th con s i derable rapi d i ty The sce n ery .

on the le ft ,
i n ter m ixed wi th the villages O f the
O sse t i n i an s war n ed u s of our approach to the
,

charm in g V i ews of which we had heard so m u ch .

E ight ve rs ts from V ladi kavk az we passe d thro ugh ,

Vide p . 2 20 . of t his l v o um e .
 B E A U T I F UL D E F I L E 4 65

l
.

l
Nov i n ka a v illage O f the O sse ti n i an s an d saw som e
, ,

of the m w h o were e m ployed i n d i ffere n t ki n ds of

,

r u ral labo u r Soo n afterwa r ds we passed the rst

.

de e of the P or t a Cauca si a abo u t fo u r versts i n ,

l
e n gth prese n ti n g a co m bi n ation of bea uty an d
,

l
s u bli m i ty which rivetted the atte n ti on an d r e ,

l
m i n ded m e of the craggy m o u n tai n s an d rom an ti c

Highlan d d ells O f Scotlan d an d w ith them of t he , ,

a greeable associatio n s of the days of o n e s you th fu

travels an d adven tu res S urrou n ded by be autifii y .

wooded h i l s overhan gi n g precipices an d n aked , ,

s trata which were i n ter s ected by ravi n es an d val

,

leys an d wi th the rap i d but dirty Terek an d an

,

a dj oi n in g crystal strea m owi n g at ou r feet i t w as ,

.

l
i m possible n ot to ad m i re ; an d while we adm i red ,

l
n ot to adore .

l
The m o un tai n s becam e lower an d farther s epa
rated be fore reac hi n g a s m all Village an d m i li tary
Station balled B alta twelve v er s ts fro m V adi k av
, ,

k az . I n this V illage r esides Dev et M i r z a an ,

O sse ti n i an n ob e w h o i s a captai n i n the R u ssian

j
,

servi ce S i x versts furth er an d ust before reach

.
,

Th e r bet w e e the w at er f th Terek a d that of

c on t ast n o e , n

t h e ri l t tr k
vu e ,
ry forcibly Th T k ri
s uc us v e t gr t . e re se s a a ea

l
l tio ow rapidly a d i o ti lly r i i g trib t ry
e eva n, s , n s c n nua ece v n u a

s rt e m whi h
a s, form d from t h m lt d ow d ri g th w arm
c ar e e e e e sn u n e

s e as on of t h e y r ; d th c e m y p artly o t fo
ea an e se au s s a ac c un r

i t b i g g erally o m ddy Y t m a y m
s e n en s t ai tr m a e
u . e n oun n s ea s r

q it l r Th ri ul t t ak i t rigi from ow hill t o

u e c ea . e v e es s o n s, a n

g r
ea t d i t s
an e a d ow i n g q
c i e
,
t ly al o g
n dis t urbs n othi g in u n , n

i t c urse
s o .

V OL . I . H H
4 66

i ng l
M A K S IM K I N A .

the Vi l age of M ak si m k in a our atten ti o n w as

call ed to two h igh Slen der m o n u m en ts r isi n g i n the
valley with i n scri ption s u pon the m
, They are
D E PI L E

OF

,
L A R S.

.
L A R S .

erected to t he m e m ory of two Georgian traveller s

who were m u r d ered n ear th i s spot by the n atives .

The valley n ow again becam e n arrow form i n g a ,

secon d dele e n co m passed by wild an d terric

,

sce n ery which raised ideas O f gran de u r an d sub

,

lim ity rather than of beau ty I mm en se m o u n tai n s

, .
,

on on e side prese n t the i r n aked walls w hose s u m

, ,

l
m its fro m ou r sit u ati on were i n vi s ible an d fro m
, , ,

w hose n early perpe n dic ular craggy sides i ss u e a

thou san d r ills an d stream s form in g n um erou s foam ,

i n g cascades On the other side were the r ui n s of an

.

l
o d castle a ce m etery lled w i t h white to m bs
, the ,

pictu resqu e O sse t i n i an Village L ars an d a R u s , ,

sian fortress ; all backed by gen tle hills an d thes e ,

by al m ost n aked
The Village L ars i s a very m iserable d ir ty p ac e
, , ,

b u ilt a good deal like som e of the Tartar Vi llage s

l
i n t he K r i m e a The n atives behaved w ell tho ugh
.
,

they see m ed greatly aston ished at Ou r appearan ce .

I n the s m all fort above the v i llage i s a n um ber of

b uildi n gs .

We fo un d a R u ss i an O fcer d w e li n g i n a woode n
h o u se adjoi n i n g to the v illage who was there for
, ,

the p u rpose of s uperi n te n di n g the roads an d w h o ,

aVe u s a very cordial recept i o n H e w as dressed

g .

co m pletely like on e O f the O sse t i n i an n obles ,

Si r R . K . Po rt er ha gi
s ve n a plat e of the Pass of th e Cau
c asu s .
 D E FI L E OF DA R I EL . 4 67

on p urpo se he sai d that the n ati ve s m ight n ot

, ,

readily recogn i se hi m an d that he m igh t b etter

,

l
k n ow w hat was goin g on i n hi s n eighbourhood .

lll
We had chan ged the i n fan try three t im es i n our
progress to L ars an d there we chan ge d both
the m an d the Koz ak gu ard as well as our h or se s
, .

Through the m ou n tai n pass we r eached the de e

of Dar i , wh i ch m ay be ca l ed t he Ther mom te O f
t h e Cau cas u s where Natur e i s se e n i n her fan tasti c
,

w il dn ess an d steril ity .

Q
'

B B
 CHAP . XI .

DE FI L E OF DA R I EL . V W
SUB TE R R A
IE OF TH E C A UC AS U S .

N E O US R O A D T H E T ER E K .I M P R O VE M E N T O F R O A D S
- . .

TH F O R T R SS O F DA R I EL T H A N C I E N T C AS T L E O F D A
E E .
- E

R I EL M O UN T A I N
. RI s I M O L I T I C CO NDUC T
T F R U SS I A
BE . P O .

VI L L A G E O K AZ B EK I T S I N H A B I T A N T S M O UN T A I N
F . .
-

O F K AZ B EK C A T H D R A L M O UN T Z I O N K 6B I DE
. E . . .

P A R T UR A L PI N E L A N T S
E. M I NE R AL S PR I N G S P AN . .

A VA L A N C H E TH R I GO R A
. H M O UN T A I N O F T H
E - . T E E

C R O SS AS C E N T O F T H GO O T G O R A -C R I T I CI S M s B A
.
- E - . .

S A L TI C R OCK D E S C E N T O F T H G O O T G O R A K A S H A UR
.
- E - . .

M I L I T AR Y STA T I ONS F A R F O B H O R SE S COM L AI N T S

. E . .. P

O F T H E K oz AK T E UL U T I A N S A C A T T H E I R R A C L E
s . . O .

S I N GU L A R PUN I S H M N T C O L L C T I O N O F T A X E S T H E E . E .

A R AGU A C O N D UC T O A N O S T I N I A N VA L E O F PA S
. F SE .

s AN A NO O F R T O F A AN A N O R
R . O QU A R A N I N E F P SS O . T O

A NA NN OR O F O R T R E SS O F A N A NNO O R I T S C H UR C H
. . .

N w QUA R A N T I N E
E -C AS T L E O F D U S H ET T O WN O F D U
. .

S H ET PL O UG H I N G T H E A L E OF A R AG UA x H A R T I s
. . v .
 D E FI L E O F D A R I EL . VI E W O F TH E CA U C A S US . 4 69

l
K S
AR T M S K E T T H E
.
'

KO OR TH E CAT H E D R AL OF M S K E T
. . .

I N T R O D UCT I O N O F C H R I S T I A N I T Y T H E T SA R S O F G E O R .

G I A A N E CD O T E P A S S A GE O E T H E C A U C AS U S
'

. . .

TH E dele of Dar i is th u s described by Si r R

"
.

Porter : The chas m rises from the river s bri n k ,

u pwa rds of a tho u san d feet Its sides are broke n .

'

i n to cle fts an d proj ection s dark an d fro wn i n g ; S O ,

high so close so overhan gin g that eve n at m id

, , ,

day the whole i s covered with a shado w borderi n g

'

on twilight With this descriptio n the kn ight s

.
,

pe n c i l is i n u n ison an d the Vie w he giv es of the de

le is on e Of the best i n his vol u m es So m e of his .

other v i ews by s u ch a m aster of his art m ay be rec

, ,

k on e d co m plete fai l u res Tho u gh whe n h e rst saw .

the proper bou n dary bet w ee n Asia an d E urope h e ,

tells u s i n the m ost owery style that the vas t

, ,

piles of Cau cas u s presen ted to his View a w orld
of the m selves ; r ocky r ugged an d capped with , ,

s n ow ; stretchi n g east a n d west beyo n d the reach

of V i s i o n an d shooti n g far i n to the Skies

, an d

ll
that it was a sight to m ake t he sen ses pause to

l
oppress eve n respiratio n by the weight of the i m ,

pression on the m i n d of s u ch vast overpoweri n g , ,

s u bli m ity yet his D i st an t Vi ew of M oun t Ca u

c a sus does n ot con vey the s m a l est i dea of the
tru y s ubli m e ori gin al I n deed a ge n tlem an wel .
, ,

qu alied to j u dge said to m e that a Vie w of Ham p

, ,

s tead h i lls wo u ld g i ve n early as acc u rate a r e

pres entati o n Of the alt itu de an d gran de ur of the

H H 3
47 0 S UB T E R R A N E O U S R O AD . T H E T ER E K .

Cau cas u s as Si r R Porter s plate ; an d there i s
,
-
.

m u ch tru th i n t he obse r vatio n So m e of h i s othe r .

Vi ews however are m aster pieces of w il d m aj esti c

, ,
-

s ce n e r y .

We had bee n forc i bly str u ck at on e part Of the

l
j o urn ey of the preced in g day A fe w yards of the .

r oa d wer e blasted ou t of the soli d rock by the ban k ,

of the T ere k so t hat we rode thro ugh a ki n d ,

of gallery ope n on on e side an d s u pported by pil

, ,

"
ars be n eath a h uge m o u n tai n s The Terek rolls its
,

cou rse with great r apidity so m eti m es separated ,

i n to a n u m ber of bran ches an d n o less than 8 00

s old i ers were occ u pied i n rais i n g m o u n ds of great

ston es an d trees called c ounter zn ces to keep i t ,

'

l
from destroy i ng the road an d to co n n e i t wit hi n ,

r p i g B lta Si R Port e r t alk s of t he road

A ft e ass n a , r . r un

n ni g b ath p d t ar hway f t o whi h a e m r ly

r
ene en en c s o s ne , c r e e

hi gh e ough t o ll ow t h p g e der them f ow c rri g e ;

n a e as sa un o a a a

a d of a p th o
n rrow ar ely t dm it t w o arriag t o
s na as s c a c o a c es

p a s e a h oth r whil o e sid f t h ro d i o t h e e dg f

s c e e n e o e a s n e o

a prec ipi e which i om e pl e i ix t y f t d p

c , , n sd i ac s, s s ee ee an n

oth r abo
e s, o h dr d w ith t h roari g w at rs of th
ve ne un e e n e e

Ter k at t h e bot t om of thi aby

e I d o oti c of y s ss . n n n e an

su ch p l i m y ot e
ac e d I r oll t
n c h
n r oad ; ds , n or o ec ec an su an
y
I a m i c li e d t thi k th t Si R P rt r o hi t ra
n n o nrib r h , a r . o e , r s n sc e , as

co f d d thi p rt of t h d l w i th th t b
n oun e s a oti d d e e e a a ov e n ce , an

of w hi h I am abo t t o Sp
c k A Si R Port r dr w r u ea . s r . e e nea

B ariel h ay , o road w r d r d till m or b r by

e s s, ur as en e e s e O sc u e ,

i t l di g fo
s ea n o id r bl w y thro gh a bt rr
,
r a c ns e a e a , u su e an e ou s

p g t i th oli d ro k I Bl k w o d M g zi i t
as s a e cu n e s c n ac o s a a ne
~
.

is r m rk d th t thi p g h w er i bt rr e o
e a e , a s ass a e, o ev , s su e an us ,

i th
n l c p t c of th w ord o ly fo t h p
e u s ua a ce an f thre ee e , n r e s ac e o

o fo r f e t
r u I b li e m y a c ou t bove t o be c orr c t
. e e ve c n a e .
a l R oA Ds .

.
F O R T R E S S

reg u ar chan n el Colo n el Joh n so n says i t is a

m atter d eser vi n g partic u lar n otice that the R u ssia n

sold i ers wherever stati on ed are u sefully e m ployed

, ,
OF DA R I EL .

,
,
47 1

i n p u blic works as roads bridge s m ilitary posts

, , , ,

&c . This e m ploym en t can n ot bu t O perate m ost

favo ur ably on their ge n eral character as i t co un ,

t e r ac t s th ose habits of dissip a tio n to which soldiers

are pro n e i n the i n tervals of acti ve warfare It .

d i m i n ishes the rep ugn an ce excited by th e presen ce

of soldiers am o n g the i n habitan ts of a district w h o ,

seei n g the m th us occ up i ed cease to regard the m ,

as Sloth ful an d Viciou s i n tr uders the dro n es or 10 ,

ou sts of the state Bu t I have great reaso n t o
.

believe that the m o un tai n eers wo u ld m u ch r a

,
a

l
ther n ot see an y i m prove m e n ts of the ki n d i n their
n eighbo u rhood as they te n d to i n crease the m ean s
,

both of resistan c e an d of attack .

l
We crossed an excelle n t bridge n ow the on ly ,

passage over the Terek n ea r Dar i The O sse .

t i n i an s o n ce destroyed it whe n they k n ew that th e

,

tax ofc e r s were abo u t to m ake the m a Visit The

- .

l
s m all fortress of Dar i is of m ore i m po r tan ce than

l
i t s appearan ce i n dicates bei n g situ ated i n on e of
,

the m ost dan gerou s places i n the P or t a Ca ucas i a .

The r u in s of a castle o n a n early isolated r ock i n

th e m iddle of the va l ey which com m an ds the ,

glo om y de e thro ugh wh i ch we had passed at ,

tracted our partic ular atten tio n They as well as .

,

A J ourney from I nd ia t o E ngl an d, p 2 5 6 . .

H H 4
47 2 THE A N C I E N T C A S TL E O F DA R I EL .

the bridge j u st allu ded to are W ell see n i n the ,

l
vign ette prexed to this chapter Sir R Porter . .

fo un d the r u i n s co n sisted of on e stro n g squ are

t o w er w i th thick m assive walls s u rro un di n g it an d
, ,

en c irclin g a Space bes i de s s u fcie n t to garri so n ,

s everal h u n dred soldiers Th i s see m ed the c i tade

.

of the pass an d on all the poi n ts wher e the

r ocks m ight have form e d adva n tageo u s lodge m e n t s

for an y e n e m y who had bee n dextro u s e n o u gh to

gain them t he r ui n s of s ubordin ate ou t works were
,
-

vi sible . The face of the m ou n tai n behi n d the

tower had bee n hewn with m an i fest great labo u r
, ,

i n to a kin d of aqu ed u ct to con vey water to the ,

garrison . H e adds whe n we con sider that
,

there w o uld be gro u n d w i thi n its li n es to s u pply , ,

the m selves an d cattle with food we co uld n ot s up ,

pose a place better adapted for the p ur poses O f

su c h a stati o n A s u bterran eo u s pas sage run s dow n
:

fro m the castle t o th e ban k of the r i ver com m u n i ,

catin g probably with other works wh i c h m ight

, ,

l
b e below to bar m ore i m m ed i ately the i n gres
O f the valley Accordi n g to the calc ulati on s of
.

Dr R e i ne ggs w h o m ade a n um ber of V i s its to the

.
,

l
C au casu s the elevation of the m o un tain s di rectly
,

opposit e the castle of Dar i i s 3 7 8 6 feet .

Were t he above castl e i n good order wi th a h un ,

d red m e n an d a fe w p i eces of c ann on the T her

, , e

m opy ae m ight b e defen d ed agai n st t h e co m bi n ed

forces of R u ss i a We were i n form ed that a fe w O S
.
,

s e ti n i an s eve n kept c o m m an d of the d ele agai n st

 l
M O UN T AI N TR I B E S . 47 3

a n um ero us c or p s of R u ss i an s an d ki lled all who

r

attem pted to pas s ; ti at le n gth they were starved

, ,

o ut of their positio n To preve n t si m ilar atte m pts

.

l
for the fut ure the R u ssian s destroyed th e castl e ;
,

bu t probably the n ati ves rej oice tha t th ey can n ot

, ,
.

r e m ove the m o un tain which m ay very likely ,

agai n beco m e the seat of war fare .

Near Dar i abou t a m o n th be fore we passed

,

the dele t w o K oz ak s were attacked an d m u rdered

,
i

by the n atives I n asce n di n g t h e m oun t ai n pas s

.

towards Kazb ek we re m arked n u m ero u s villages

, ,

w ith squ are pyra m idal towers an d s u rro u n ded by ,

walls which were t he n ati ve fortresses i n m ore r e

,

m ote periods whe n the vari ou s m o u n tai n tribe s

,

waged w ar agai n st each othe r B ut these ti m es are .

past an d they see m to reckon that they have n ow a

,

co m m on e n e m y They appear to be un ited i n a ban d

.

O f fi i e n dshi a m o n g the m selves an d to have sworn

p ,

etern al e n m ity to the R u ssian s alon g the whole ,

m o u n tain chai n fro m the E u xi n e to the Casp i an

, .

It i s the avowed policy of t he R u ss i an s to cr eate ,

l
di vision s am on g the differe n t tribes ; bu t although ,

they have b een partially s u ccessful i n their plan s ,

in tern al warfare I beli eve has n ot of late been

, , , ,

carri ed to a great exte n t .

Co on el J Ohn SOn says h e u n derstoo d that the

R u ss i an s were frequ en tly the aggressors an d that
.
,

their con du ct has been h itherto so Oppressive an d

u n co n c iliat in g towards the O s se t i n i an s that this ,

tri be has be en urged to a co n tinuan ce of thei r pre

'
47 4 i M PO L I T I C C O N DU C T OF R US S I A .

d at or y habits by a spiri t of ret aliat i on an d he ,

all u des to so m e i n stan ces i n p r oof of this assertion

the m ost strikin g of wh i ch is the followi n g : -A

R ussian Maj or havi n g bee n seized by the T e hit

ch eu tsi on e of t he tribes of the C au cas u s th e E m

, ,

er or Alexa n der se n t orders t o Ge n eral del Pozzo

p ,

w h o was the n i n co m m an d of V ladik avk az to pay ,

the su m of twe n ty v e tho u san d rou bles de m an ded

-

for the release of the priso n er The Gen eral h ow .

,

ever m arched w i th ve or s i x h un dred m e n to a

,

l
v illage i n habited by T c hit c hn t si who had been ,

protected i n the i r labo u rs of tillage an d to whom ,

am m u n itio n an d grain had b een gi ven u n der a

stip ulati on that they shou ld dete r thei r wilder

fri e n ds an d an d n eighbo u rs fro m e n teri n g an d p u n
derin g the R u s si an territori es an d road s adjacen t .

The Ge n eral sen t for the head m e n of the v illage

an d told the mthat they m u st e i ther p a h i the

'

y m
twe n ty-ve tho u san d ro ubles the m selves or com pro ,

m ise the de m an d by proc u ri n g the r elease of the

Maj or wh i ch accordin gly was acco m plished The
, .

Gen eral the n wrote to hi s I m peri al Maj esty that

h e had ass um ed the discreti o n of acti n g i n the m an

l
n e r described as th e m ost e ffectu al preve n t i ve of
,

si m ilar attacks i n future *

.

I heard an acco un t often er than on ce of a s i m i

'

, ,

lar ki n d r especti n g the p r e se n t g ove r n or ge n eral

,
,
-

of Georg i a Ye r m O of; but for the tr ut h of wh i ch I

,

"
A J Our n ey fr om I nd ia; &c p . . 261 .
 V I L L AG E OF KA Z BEK . 47 5

do n ot vou ch It i s said t hat when ar an som e was

.
,

de m an ded by on e of the m o u n tai n tribes for a pri

s on e r h e ordered a body O f soldiers to be asse m bled
, ,

l
an d took all the ocks an d herd s with which th ey

co uld com e i n co n tact an d retain ed the m till the ,

pri so n er was released n ot wi t hst an di n g t hat other

,
'

co n dition s of exchan ge had bee n xed .

l
l l
Co n ti n u in g a ge n tle asce n t we reached the vi ,

lage of Kazb ek calle d after the m ou n tai n O f the

,

sam e n am e at whose base it lies This village

, .

l
co n s i sts of d iffere n t streets or rather lan es i r r egu , ,

ar throw n together an d the ho u ses are all b u ilt

y
of dark colo u red schist us w i th s m al r oun d topped
-
,
-
,

l
an d eve n Gothic wi n dows or rather ape r t u res
, , ,

an d at roo fs M an y of the m con sist of two s mal

.

stories ; an d i n som e there is n o other approach t o

l
the upper story than by a ladder The h o u se of .

the late Colon e Kazb ek is like a s m all fortress :

,

n ear the m i ddle of the Village It is an oblon g .

squ are ed i ce two sto r ies i n height w i th col u m n s

, ,

before it a n d i s i n closed by a high wal agreeably

, ,

l
l
to t he c u sto m of the n atives *
O n ou r r etu rn from .

Georgia w e w ere acco m m odated with lodgi n gs i n

l
l
on e of t h e edices withi n its walls an d wished ,

m u ch to have see n ou r hostess the widow of Co ,

on e Kazb ek but she was said to be i n disposed

, .

H er h u sban d was a n ative C hief, who was c om

l
e t e y i n t h e serv i ce of R u ssia an d who becam e a
p ,

This edi c e Is we ll se e n in th e fro tisp ie c e

n of L e tt r es

s ur e C auc as us , &c .
 l
47 6 I NH AB I T A N T S A ND M O UN T AI N OT KA Z B EK .

Christian co n ve r t A s m all n e w ch urch , d edic ated .

to the Tri n ity as I fou n d by an in scription i n i t s

,

fr on t had bee n erected i n 1 8 0 9 by the Co o n el

, , ,

and n ow m a
y b e said to for m his m o nu m e n t H e . ,

di e d six or eight years ago an d le ft co n siderabl e ,

property t o his fam ily H i s son i s i n the R u ssian .

s erv i ce .

The i n hab itan ts of Kazb ek are c hiey O ssetin

l
i an s an d m ost of the m Chr i sti an s
,
T h ey a r e allied .

t othe Georgia n s w i th who m they m ai n tai n frien dly ,

co m m un icatio n an d are d i sl i ke d by th ei r brethre n

,
.

of t he m o un ta i n s on acco un t O f t heir r elig i o n an d ,

s t il m ore s o on accou n t O f the i r adhere n ce to the

l
R u ss i an s .

T he Kazb ek had bee n all day con cealed i n t he

*

l
C lo u ds While we were at the Village of the sam e
. .

n am e i t threw off its shro u d for a m o m e n t an d

, ,

appeared i n a its glory its s n owy t op reectin g ,

the rays of the s ettin g s un with the greatest br il

i an c y O n ou r ret u rn from Georgia the weather
.
,

was C lear an d the whole m ou n tain was see n to

,

great advan tage O n e of the party the n took a .

Th e n am e of hi
i re tly writ t
t W ha e
s m ou n t a n i s d ffei n e n. e v

l
i t u d r th f rm of K i bk K
n e e y be g a d Gh z i B g Th
o s az , ass -
,
n a e . e

R us is an s ,w h m I ha f llow d ll i t K zbek Kl p r th
o ve o e , ca a . a o

s y
a s, that i t i lle d M q i i i whi h ig i S ow -M
s ca u n v ar , c s n es n oun

t i ; a d t hat t h e O
a n n ti i s m e it T i t i T o b Pi d s se n an na se r s - s u , c u

Chri t o O ur Khokh
s , rW hit e M tai
s- Vy g o i , or oun n. o a e, v . .

p 47 1
. Th e t ra lat or of L tt er fr m t h
.
- ns C s & e s o e au c a u s , c.

sa y th t Gh z i B g i i t A rabic a d Turkish nam e a d i m

s, a a e s s n ,
n

p li e s H r of the true Fai th

, e o .
 C ATH E D R A L .

sk etch of it bu t already i t has been w el r e p r e

s e n ted i n se v eral works
,

Parrot an d E i n ge har dt
have calc u lated the height of the Kazb ek to be
.
M O U NT Z I ON .

l
l
47 7

feet above the level of the Black S ea .

'

A ve r y striki ng O bj ect at K az bk is the V i ew Of ,

a cathedral on an adj oi n i n g high m ou n tai n per ,

haps betwee n 1 5 00 an d 2 000 feet above the level

of i ts base wh i ch w ith oth er c hu r c h e s w as erected
, , ,
.

l
n earl y 600 years ago by the Pri n cess Ta m ara of

Georgi a who co n ver ted the people of her dom i

,

n i on s to Christian ity .

Havi n g chan ged horses at Kazb ek w e proceeded ,

on 0 11 1 j o u r n ey an d as we r ode a o n g e nj oyed
'

, , ,

l
s o m e of the gran dest sce n ery wh i ch c an be c on

c eiv e d I was partic ularly str uck with the view of

.

-
Mou n t Z ion i ts s n ow c lad r idges i ts m on astery
,
-
, ,

a n d its castle They are exhibited i n an en gravi n g

.
,

after a m asterly sketch by Sir Gore O use y whic h ,

t he E n gl i sh Tran slator of L et t er s fr om t he C au
"

c a sus ,
has j udicio u sly i n trod u ced as a fron tispiece
t o h er work .

We overtook three K oz k s w ho w ere on their

r et u r n to K Obi an d m ade an agree m e n t with the m
,

t o a c c om p any u s We desir ed ou r g u ard of K oz ak s

.

to precede u s an d we rode Off; an d soon arrived

,

at that place leavi ng t he i n fan try to p u rs u e the ir

,

ma rch at the i r le i s ure We freq uen tly stopped .

,

how ever to e nj oy the views of the m aj estic clo ud

,

capped m oun tai n s an d the bar r e n hills by whi ch, ,

w e w er e surr ou nded
. .
 l
47 8 K OB I .

Mrs Fr eygan c h has gi ven su c h a de sc r ipti on of

.

K Obi as disgu sts the traveller w i th t h e p ac e be

fore his arr i val : but Colon el Joh n son s ays th i s ,

post i s w ell b u ilt an d has acc omm odati ons for m an y

,

Visitors an d travellers S i r Robert Ker P orter h as

.

well desc r i bed K ob i as we fo un d i t Th i s post .
,

says h e li ke m ost of the oth ers con s i sts Of a

, ,
~

squ are fort protected by earthen e m ban k m e n t s

, ,

pali sadoes a n d a Shallow ditch A fe w di rty

, .

r oo m s totally devo i d of fii r n i t ur e are set apart for

, ,

the recepti o n of travellers A be n c h for m e d .

all the furn i t ure of the r oom we occ up i e d w h i c h ,

was dirty i n the extre m e an d u n l u ck i ly i ts w m ,

dow w as i m m oveable As there i s n o w oo d

.

n earer K o bi than twelve verst s we pai d four r ou ,

bles for as m an y b u n dle s of dri e d u n der wood as

. .

was n ece ssary t o cook our di n n er B ut s car cely

l
.

had w e k in dled a re when t he apar tm en t i n

wh i ch we h ad xed ourse lve s was so lled w i th
.

s m oke that w e were obl iged t o go out an d for

, _
,

the rst ti m e we felt t h e r eal wan t of our c ar

,

n wh i c h we had be fore
g
r ia es i
, u x u ri ou sly r e

posed We allow ed the re t o be extin gui s he d

.
,
'

an d the n lai d down t o sleep u on our bur c has an d

p .
,

ll
s m all p illow s placed upo n the be n ch .

I n the cou rse of the eve n in g w e h ad bee n ,

am use d b s e ei n g a reg i m e n t of K oz a k s an d th e ir
y
com m an der as w ell as by s om e i n fan tr y o ic er s
,
: .
,

w h o had reached th i s place i n c a dshes an d ari hit has

. .
,

an d w ho we r e i n the i r rou te to
joi n t h e G e o r g ia n -
 l
D E PA R T U R E .
A L PI NE PL A NTS . 47 9

a rm y w h i ch owi n g t o the great m ortali ty r equ ires

, , ,

ann ual re i n force m e n ts .

Havi n g overco m e so m e dii c u ti e s which were ,

m ade by the u n acco m m o dati n g co m m

l
an dan t of
K obi r especti n g horses we set off fro m this
, ,

dreary abode at si x O clock i n t he m orn i n g of th e
1 5 th of J u n e Althou gh we had been grad ually
.

a sce n di n g fro m th e ti m e we e n tered the d e e s of

,

l
the Cau cas us yet as we als o descen ded i n to n u
,

m er ou s s m all valleys this circ u m stan ce was the ,

less rem arkable Havin g beg un the asce n t how .

,

l
ever fro m K Obi the Vi ci n ity of the s n ow the cool , ,

te m peratu re an d the al p in e p an ts soon m ade u s

, ,

s e n sible of bei n g as it were tran sported to an , ,

o ther cli m ate I was qu ite delighted w i th the

.
-

l
bot an i ca ban quet of Cau casian rhododen dron s ,

daph n es an e m on es an d pri m roses which d eco

, , ,

r ated the slopi n g bases of these m ighty m ou n

ta i n s at a short distan ce fro m the l in e of de m arc
,

ation where vegetati on ceases u n der an etern a

coveri n g of s n ow *
.

Between three an d fo u r versts fro m K ob i large

l
,

l l
pri c ip al plan ts I c olle c te d be tw e e K Obi a d Kres
Th e n n n

l
t O aya Gora w e re R hod od
v dro C au c a ic u m D aph e g lom e
,
en n s , n

l l
r ta G allium Tat aric um Trolli s p t u u G tia a a gulosa
a , ,
u a s, en n n ,

Prim ul l o gifolia A e m o
a n a i i fo i (both w i th e d a d
, n ne n r c ss a r n

whit ow ers ) V e ro i c a ge t i a oid e s C era t iu m ru de ra e Po

e ,
n n n , s ,

t e t illa Op ac a Fri till ri a t u i p i o a O roba ch e c oc c i e a M e

n ,
a r ,
n n ,

am p um arv e s er A re aria h e t e om a a H e dy saru m Baux

n n r
y , ,

baum i a um Parie t ari a l usit ani c a H e dy sarum p e trae um an d

n , , ,

Sym phi t um as e r r im um
p .
 4 80 M I NE R AL S PR I N GS .
-A N A VAL ANCH E .

patches of gro u n d of a n e oran ge Colo u r called , ,

ou r atte n tio n to the m They are fo un d on both .

l
S ides of the road an d are cau se d by n u m erou s ,

Spri n gs of m i n eral water s w h i ch ar i se i n the m o un

'

t ai n s an d i n,
their co u rse depos i t a yello w o chre
u po n every s u rface w i th whic h they co m e i n c on

l
tact ; grass ston es or the botto m s of r i l s an d c a
, ,

viti e s I n s o m e s m all n at ural bas i n s the foun tai n s

.
,

i ss u ed fro m t he earth i n a state of r ap i d e ffe r ve s

ce n ce an d the wate r w as foun d to posses s the

ll
,

l
sam e qual iti e s as the m in eral spri n gs at K i s av Od

l
sk i i
*
.

l
Abo ut ver sts farth er we r each ed th e ava
tw o ,

an che O f w h i ch Col on el Sk v ar t s f h ad i n for m e d u s

,

w he n at V adi k avk az an d w h i ch had d etached i tse f

,
i

from an adj o i n i n g h igh m oun tai n falle n i n to the v a ,

-

ley an d i n terr upted or d am m ed up the Titri Dsk a i

, ,
-
,

so that for som e days the passage was highly dan ~

gero n s The river at len gth h o wever force d i ts

.
, , ,

way u n der the s n o w an d excavatin g a passage left , ,

a s n ow bridge wh i ch was traversed by passen gers

-
, ,

h orses an d even carriages

, The arch havi n g be .

l l
co m e dai ly weaker by the m elti n g of th e sn ow ,

at last gave w ay a co uple of days befor e our ar ,

rival We had con siderable di fc ulty i n c r oss in g

.

an d r e crossi n g the ravi n e an d the r i ve r

- eve n on ,

horseback an d were w e pleased that we had left

,

ou r carr iages beh i n d The Kozak an d i nfan try .

*

ofcers all uded t o at K Obi as we sub se que n t y

, ,

Vi d e p . 439 . of his volum e

t .
le arn ed were obliged to e m ploy a great n u m ber
,
TH E Bi - G OR A . . 48 1

ll
of m e n to C lear away the s n ow who afterwards ,

s upported the carriages upo n their Sho ulders i n

passi n g the r iver .

Water cresses (S i sy m br i um N a st ur t ium ) an d

-

m arsh m arigold ( Ca t ha p a ust r i s ) were ab un dan t

-

e very where i n the rills an d m arshy places

a m o n g the m o un tai n s eve n very n ear the s n owy ,

regio n s .

P urs u in g the ascen t we soon reached an O sse ,

ti n i an cottage b uilt upon the hill called the B i Gor d

,
-
,

w hose i n habitan ts cheerfully s upplied u s w ith war m

m ilk after qu i eti n g a savage dog which Vi ole n tly
, ,

assau lted ou r horses heels It has been well r e .

m arked that these de m i savages i n on e resp ect

, ,
-
, ,

m ay rem i n d u s of the chari table zeal of the m o n ks

O f St Bern ard i n Switzerlan d They ass i st the
. .

l
forlor n travelle r i n h i s wi n ter path an d affo rd h i m ,

l
shelter from the howlin g tem pe st or the dr ifti ng
s no w u n der the roof of the ir h um ble hut A c
, .

cordin g to Sir R K Porter the m unic en c e of the

. .
,

e m peror A e xan der provi des for this establish m en t

, , .

The fam i y c ultivate a p i ece of groun d n ear their

habitation The prod uce with sheep an d goats
.
, ,

con sign ed to their charge an d a large dep 6t Of ,

ou r an d bran dy are always ready for the p urposes

,

of charity .

Havi n g forde d a clear m oun tain stream a li ttle -

fu rther on we con ti n u ed our ascen t an d s oon

, ,

r e ached the h igh e st po in t of the alp i n e pas s t he ,

V OL . I.
 l
4 8Q CROSS

TH E M O UN T A I N OF TH E

K r est bvay a Gor d, or the M ountai n of the Cr oss ,

w hich at o n ce recalled to m i n d the place n am ed

R est an d be Than kfu at Glen coe i n the high
, ,

lan ds Of Scotlan d O n this h ill is a m assy pedestal

.
,

l
s ur m o un ted by a cross form ed out of the sa m e
,

ston e an d w i th an i n scripti on on it
,
It was erected .

to com m e m orate the com pletion of the r oa d by the ,

R ussi an s thro ugh the P or ta Ca ucasi a i n 1 8 09

, , .

The desce n t from he n ce by a o ng w in di n g r oad, ,

c o n d ucted u s to a plai n i n which was an e n ca m p

,

m en t Of Georgi an m erchan ts w hose ch i e f property ,

con sisted i n h un dreds of horses wh i ch were fe e d ,

i ng a roun d t he m From the plai n begi n s the

.

asce n t of the Goot Gora which we traversed by an

-
,

excelle n t road c ut out alo n g its decliviti es He n ce

, .

we e nj oyed a n e Vi ew of an i m m e n se valley i n whic h ,

l
the Aragua the A r ax i s of the an c i e n ts o w s ; an d
, ,

w h i c h we co u ld n early trace wi th the eye to i ts

s ou rce am o ng m an y foam i n g rills which ru shed

, ,

fro m the chas m s ofthe adj oi n i ng m o un tai n s; This

Valley i s covered with n um ero u s Vi l ages corn ,

elds an d pasture lan ds an d for m ed q ui te a c on

,
-
,

trast to the savage scen ery we had le ft behin d u s .

After an alar m i n g descripti on O f the descen t

l
fro m the Mo un tai n of the Cross Si r R Porter ,
A

ll
qui te t e rr ie s us by a difc ulty of still m ore

for m idable m agn it u de Noth i n g c an pai nt
.
,

says he
.

the te rric situ ation O f the road whic h

,

open ed before us; at Good Gor ai It see m ed litt e v

better than a scram ble a o n g t he p er p e n di c u ar face

 A S CE NT OF TH E G OOT -G O R A C R I TI C I S M S
. . 4 88

of a rock whe n ce a fall m u st be i n stan t desti n e

,

tio n an d while p u rs u i n g this perilo us way at ,

the botto m of the gree n abyss the Aragua ap ,

e ar e d like a ne Si lver li n e an d the k n ight dare d
p ,

n ot tr u st hi m sel f to gaze lon g on a s c e n e at

o n ce so s ubli m e an d so pai n fully terrible But .

leadin g his horse as n ear as he co uld to that

S ide of the road where the Good Gora towered to

the sky an d there fore oppos ite to that which edged

,

l
the precipice he looked with an x i ety on his
,

fello w travellers
- who were cli ngi n g to the s to n y
,

l
proj ectio n s i n their advan ce up this h or i i d esca
,

lade . Who wo uld i m agi n e says an a n o n y ,

m o u s writer that this hor r i d esca a de is al m ost
,

daily e ffected by carriages ; n ay that the a uthor s ,

( Sir R Porter
. s ) o w n c a a sh m o u n ted with hi m self ,

that for a h un dred yards or m ore i m m ediately ,

belo w the road this gree n a byss is yearly m own
,

for hay by the i n habitan ts of the n eighbo ur i ng Vil

,

lages an d that a path leads al m ost di rectly d own

,

to it by which this hay is carried to the foot Of the

,

m o un tai n over the backs of asses ! - Yet s u ch is

the fact This criti c like o u rselves appears to
.
, ,
'

have passed thro ugh the m o u n tai n dele i n the

l
s u m m er an d to have e n co u n tered n o difc ulty
,
.

Tho ugh the asce n t of the hill m u st be m ore ard u

ous at an ad van ced seaso n of the year whe n the ,

road i n so m e places of the m oun tai n side m ay be

, ,

l e d up by s n o w an d i ce yet I am still i n clin e d t o

'

I I Q
48 4 D E SC E NT O F TH E G OO T G OR A- .
K A SHA IZ
IR

l

th i n k Sir R Porter s accoun t possesses m ore of
.

l
r o m an ce than acc u racy .

O n the w est side of the A ragu a an i n terest i n g

l
hi ll prese n ti n g a bold perpe n d i c ular fro n t of (ap
,

ar en t y ) bas a ltic col u m n s on w hose s u m m it i s an

p
o d square castle , an d a V i llage e m boso m ed i n

w oods an d shr ubbery form the ce n tre of th e val

,

e
y already m e n t i o n ed wh i ch m u st have a dreary
,

an d w i ld appearan ce i n w i n ter .

The desce n t from the Goot-Gora i s rap i d an d ,

over a very bad r oad covered w i th large sto n es

, .

l
W e ofte n deserted i t by advice of ou r K oz ak s

.
,

l
By a gen tle ascen t we reached the station of

l
Kashmi r where are two villages wi th a sq uare
, ,

taper in g tower an d a redoubt si m ilar to that of

, ,

K Obi . These m ean an d g o om y Villages are su r

roun ded by a profu sion O f the beau tiful A z a ea
o n t i c a an d Dap hn e g om e r at a w hich greatly e u
p ,

live n thei r Vi c i n i ty Gu ard was m oun te d an d the

.
,

soldi ers w ere r eady to se r v e u s Here as at all the

.
,

stati o n s betwee n V la di kavk az an d T i i s are a ,

n um ber of i n fan try varyi n g fro m twe n ty to fty

,

soldi ers an d abou t twen ty ve K oz ak s

,
- .

The K oz ak s receive t he fare (the p r og bn ) of

thei r horses w hich beco m es a con si derable p e r qui
,

si te to the m whe n paid as they get twel ve kope c ks

, ,

p e r verst fo r each hor s e on acco u n t of

, the dearn ess
of the cor n whic h i s bro ught fro m the so u th of

R ussia for fee ding them E ve n hay i s dea r as for

, .
,
 TE U L U T I A N S . A CA T T HE I R O R A CLE . 4 85

wan t of
proper atten tion en ough of i t is n ot pro ,

d u c e d to s upply forage It is sold to the m by th e .

n atives at above a ro uble e pood a greater

, p r ;
price by far than is paid at Moscow i n ord i n ary
circ u m sta n ces Th e K oz ak s co m plai n ed m u ch of
.
-

the R u ssian s payi n g for n o m or e than a half or a '

,
'

third O f the n u m ber of horses they take for the i r

,

j o u rn eys especially as they have o n ly an opp or tu

,

l
n ity , i n the s u m m er seaso n of m aki n g a s m all ,

l
su m to de fray their expe n ses an d to repay the i r ,

trou ble .

l
A n O fcer who acco m pan ied u s through the m o u n
tai n d e e s an d who had passed a n um ber of years
,

i n this vic in ity i n form ed u s that n um erou s Vi l age s

, ,

which we had re m arked before r eachin g K ashai i r

w ere i n habited by Te ii ut i an s who had an oracle ,

that was con s u lted on all occasion s He had been .

e m ployed at t im es to collect taxes a m on g th i s

, ,

l
people with who m he was on good term s Tho ugh
, .

l
th e preten ded oracle un der the form of a cat was , ,

i n his pay yet i t told i ts devotees that they o ught

,

to k ill hi m H e was i n v i ted t o their an n u al f ete

.
,

an d m ost u n expecte d y attacked O n e of hi s m en .

was k i e d an d he hi m self woun ded ; an d in de e d

, , ,

h e e ffe c t e d his r etreat wi th great di fc u lty

~
The .

sam e gen tle m an also told u s that the greatest ,

p un i sh m e n t e m ployed by these people i s of a si n

"
gular kin d : a cat is ti ed u pon the del in qu en t s

Vide p . 296 .
~
Of t his olumv e.

I I 3
48 6 SI N G UL A R PUNI SH M E N T . TA E S X .

bac k an d is the n i rritated by ge n tle strokes w h i ch

, ,

it n atu rally retaliates by scratchi n g Th e s u fferer is .

l
afraid to o ffer res i sta ce beca se the a i al be i n g
n u , n m -

sacred to h u rt or kill it wo uld be a great cri m e

,
.

l
Fro m the m o un tai n tribes of the Cau cas u s ,

tax es i n ki n d for m on ey is really out of the

qu estion are collected with great di fc u ty fro m
the fe w i n div i d u als who ar e peaceable The .

R u ssian s are obliged to e m ploy a k i n ds of strata

ge m s i n order to acco m plish thei r design s an d ,

so m eti m es they resort to v ery dish o n o u rable m e

'

t hods . Prin ces an d n obles have bee n i n vited to

l
di nn er an d thei r ar m s an d clothes seized an d kept
, ,

as pledges till redee m ed by the pay m e n t of their

,

a sse s se d t a es , bu t they are n o lo n ger to b e d uped

t - "

i n this m an n er A gen tle m an who was very c a

.
,

ab e of j u dgi n g of the m atter s upposed t hat the

p ,

m o un tai n eers wo u l d will i n gly a v oid all co m m u n i

cation w ith the R ussi an s excep t for the n ecessity
,

to which they are i n som e places redu ced of bei n g ,

depe n dan t upo n the m for so m e s upplies He also .

said that i t would be very di fc ult to ascertai n t he

l
exac t pop ulati o n O f the Cau cas u s as n o l i sts are ,

kept either of the b i rths or deaths an d as 1 m an y

,

,
"

of the n at i ves live i n the fastn esses of the m o un

tain s wh i ch were n eve r trod by an E u ropean

, .

Prov ided wi th good horses an d our u s u a g u ards

, ,

we soon reache d one of the m ost beauti ful lan d

scapes I ever beheld : a valley equal i n l en gth to
that of Bai dar in the Kr i m ea bu t far surpas si ng i t
, ,
 TH E A R AG U A .
C O ND U C T O F A N O S S E T I NI A N. 4 87

l
if n ot inbe au ty at leas t i n s ubli m ity thro ugh
, ,

whic h the Arag u a ows toward the Koor or the

Cyru s of an cie n t days The desce n t i n tothis val .

ley is lo n g an d di fc ult an d win ds i n a z ig zag , ,

-

direction fro m t he s um m i t of t he hil n early to the

ri ver j u st m e n ti o n ed through delightful w oods an d
, ,

con d u cts to a m ore ge n ial cli m ate than that of the

m o u n tai n s Pas s i n g a barrack or s m all W hite ho u se
.
, ,

where are station ed a n um ber of soldiers we crossed ,

the A r gu a by a good bri dge t he erectio n of wh i c h

, ,

is com m e m orated by an adj oin in g sto n e p yra m id .

Havi n g lo st the party wh i le i n searc h of pl an t s i n

the woods I too k a short by path i n orde r t o
, ,

n O sse
j om the m A
. t i n i an who sal u te d m e an d , ,

co n d u cted m e i n to an other way gave m e so m e ,

u n easi n ess bu t acted with great propriety

, I then .

s u dde n ly cam e upo n a fam ily e n cam ped i n the w ood .

T heh u sban d see m ed as m u ch alarm ed as I w as ,

l
d p tt i g his ha d u po n his d a ger wh i c h I
a n , u n n
g ,

did n ot the n k n ow w as a sign of fri e n dship he ,

-

m ade a bow to m e Keepi n g at a respectable di s

. .

tan ce we held a con versation i n pan to m i m e He

,
.

perfect y com prehe n ded that I had lost m y way

l
,

l
an d m ade sig n s by observi ng w h i ch after a r ap i d
, ,

gallop I fregai n ed the r oad an d was so on over

l
, ,

taken by the par ty .

I n pass i ng thro ugh the vale of Passn an oor ,

the con tin u al su ccessi on of woode d hil s an d l ofty

m o u n tai n s of craggy p i nn acle s an d fri ghtfu p r e
,
.

c i pi c e s w i th d eep rav i n es
,
an d dark an d di sm a ,

I I 4
 l
VA L E FOR T O E PA S S AN A N OO R
'

A ND .

"
glen s whic h pou r t hei r tributary s trea m s i n to


,

the Arag ua is pec uliarly gran d an d s ublim e an d

, , ,

with so m e s m a l bu t char m i n g dells for m s a wild ,

but beau ti ful co m bi n atio n of alpi n e sce n ery The .

villages Of the n atives of this delightful valley ,

pitched am on g the craggy poi n ts an d overhan gin g

cli ffs O f appare n tly i n accessi ble m ou n tai n s an d ,

at s u ch e n or m o u s heights as to b e al m ost i n Vi s

ible as well as n um ero u s squ are towers or castle s

,

which were u sed as places of r e fuge i n th e ti m es

of for m er i ntestin e broils add a degree of t h e TO ,

man tic an d p i c tu r e sque which is seldo m Com bin ed

'

Hawthorn s ho n ey s u ckles g u elder-roses and

,
-
, ,
'

barberri es besides a great vari ety Of wild plan ts,

,

n pro fu sio n am o n g the w

g rew i oods an d by the
'

ban ks of the Arag ua an d n um erou s warblers cheer J

,
-

"
ed u s w ith thei r sweet n otes as we appr oach ed Pas ,

san an oor where the v alley beco m es m ore n arro w

, .

PasSn an oor an other palisadoed fortress with

, ,

a n u m ber of s m all ed i ces an d barracks an d a fe w

'

n ative h u ts i s placed as i t W ere at the bottom of

, , ,

l l
an i n v erted co n e whose sides are form ed by m o un
,

tain s covered to their s um m its wi th a vari ety Of

,

beautiful trees an d shrubs .

The road betwee n Passan an oor an d A n an oor

is on e of the m ost delightfu i m agin able, and oft en
p rese n ts s u ch sce n ery as is descr i bed i n the v a e

betwee n K ashai I r an d Passanan oor L i ke the Terek

'

.
,

on the n orth side of the Cau cas u s , the A ra u a on

g
'

"
the south was extre m ely dirty and i ts bank s wer e ,
 QU A R A N T I NE O F A NA N O O R .

covered wi th i n n u m erable lofty w i de spr eadi ng . -

beech trees .

We arrived at the qu aran ti n e of A n an oor an d ,

thou gh we got the best apartm e n ts of the establish

m e n t they were very bad an d what was worse
, , , ,

l
v ery da m p By bribi n g high w eproc u red wood
.
,

bu t the m er c at dn t as they called t h e grocer of the

, ,

place gave u s bad b utter bad sh bad cavi ar bad

, , , ,

eggs bad every thi n g an d so poor was the plac e

, , ,

that after ou r servan t had prepared so m e portab e

so up we were obliged to eat it ou t of the lids O f
,

l l
the pan s The captai n of A n an oor was n ot at
.

ho m e so we bo ught hay which probably had bee n

, ,

p u rchased a dozen of ti m es before an d prepared ,

l
ou r beds by spreadi ng ou r bu r c has over it .

O n the fol o wi n g day i m pati e n t at ou r dete n t i on

,

l
i n s u ch a detestable place we se n t for the captai n ,

of the q u aran ti n e who i n form ed u s that the aws

, ,

r eq uired th at travel e rs sho uld re m ain there for

fo u r days e v e n when there was n o s u sp i c i o n of
,

the p agu e an d forty days when t here wa s A S

, .

e ven fo u r days w as a s er i ou s loss of tim e for u s we ,

,

e ndeavou red to m ake arran gem en ts an d Offer e d a '

l
co n siderable bribe to be allowed t o proceed on ou r
j ou rn ey Bu t th i s w as rej ected : a c i rcu m stan ce
.

wh i c h s urpri sed m e as the captai n was a R u s

,

sian ; an d as its parallel does n ot often occ u r H e .

c o n sen ted h ow ever to let u s go on the fo l o wi n g

, ,

day as he h as the di scretio n ary power of abat in g

,

the tim e x e d when there i s a cer tai n ty of t he

,
490 PO R T R ES S O F I TS C H UR C H .

par ty e nj oyi n g perfe ct health wh i ch I as a physi , ,

l
oian attested
,
The u seless cere m o n y of fum igat
.

i n g our bzi r c has was go n e thro ugh so as i n som e

, ,

degree to con form to the orders of the i n stitutio n

,
.

The qu aran ti n e of A n an oor co n sists of a n um

,

ber of s m al ow woo d e n thatched ho u ses form i n g ,

a squ are an d all very m iserable hab itation s Yet

, .
-
'

here we fo un d there were separate apartm e n ts for

n obles an d for co m m o n ers store m agazi n es fum i ,
-
,

ati on roo m s &c A m o n g o the r sou rces of a m u se

g
- .
,

m e n t we Vi si t e d t he ho u se for th e co m m on travel
lers which has apert ures but n o wi n dows i n its
, , ,
.

walls so that i t was s ur e of a thoro ugh ve n tilati o n

, .

T h e i n m ates of th i s dwell i n g con s i sted of Arm e

n ia n s Georg i a n s H u n garian s an d Jews fro m n ear
, , ,

Kisl ar w ho we re dan ci n g to the sou n d of t he

,
f / '

t am bar i n e or playi n g at vari o u s gam es for m o n ey

, .

The Jews havi n g the i r heads shaved an d weari n g

, ,

the A siatic d ress we di d n ot at rst di sti n guis h

,

fro m Tartars They were s ell in g Kalm u ck lam b

ski n s black an d c u rled at t e n ro u bles each wh i c h

, , ,

l l
l
m ay be reckon ed a high price alth ou g h t hey are ,
. ,

m u c h u sed i n R u ss i a as w ell as i n Georgi a an d ,

ll
Persia

l
O n the 1 7 th J un e hav i n g already break fas ted at
, ,

seve n o c o ck i n the m orn in g we g ad y quitted t he
quarantin e an d s oon a rr i ve d at t he fortress of A n
,
'

n an oor wh ose e m battled a n d lo op h o ed w a s an d

,
-
'

towers i n cl ude the ch urch of the Vi l age Th e

, . . .

m o n ey of the d i stri ct is co n tai n e d i n t he

 NE W Q UA R A N T I N E CA S T L E or Du sn r 49 1 ~

. .

an d, we were ass u red that a cellar u n der it was c on

,

verted i n to a powder m agazin e It is b u ilt i n t he .

form of a cross with a si n gle c up ola an d of hew n

, ,

sto n e The town or r ather paltry village of A h

.
,

n an oor sta n ds on on e side of the fortress

, L eavi n g .

l
the Aragu a on the le ft we t ur n ed to the right an d , ,

l
after ri di n g two or three versts we cam e to th e ,

New Q u ara n ti n e an e stablish m e n t which n o do ubt

, , ,

by this ti m e is n ished an d proves a very g reat ,

c on ve n ie n ce to trave l ers It is situ ated on an .

e e vatio n by the side of a ri v ulet an d co n sists of ,

t hree di ffere n t Squ ares for m ed by sto n e walls a n d, ,

i n cl udes n u m ero u s edices b u ilt of the sam e m ate

l
ri als O n e of those squares i s for the n obles an d
.

l l
e n tle m e n a seco n d for co m m o n people an d a
g , ,

third for all ki n ds of m erchan dise Fro m he n ce

'
.

we ascen ded a steep hill an d had so m e n e views ,

of alpi n e sce n ery with a fe w s m all sc att e r e d v i

,

a e s i n t er m i x e d with r u i n e d w a l s an d towers i n
g
.

, ,

the fore grou n d - .

By a lon g an d gen tle d ecl ivi ty we r each ed Du

sh et . Here i s a regular fortied castle w ith a ,

G eorgi an in s c r i p t i on on a m arble slab ove r the

,
'

l l
pr i n cipal gate ; but i t i s a place of n o grea t stre n gth .

l
The a uthor of the L et ter s f r om t he Cauc asus ,

speaks of it as a c hd te a u wh i ch has se rved for
& c
. ,

the form er r es i den ce of the tsar of Georgi a H e -

r ac i u s an d as a co m plete squ are ; havi n g a ga e r y

,

r un n i n g r oun d i t ; bu t it i s n ow fa l i n g to de cay ,

a n d i s u se d as a barrac k for a battal i o n of soldiers ,

4 9Q
4
5 PL O U GH I NG .
VAL E or A RAG UA .

an d t w en ty ve - K oz ak s, who dwell wi tho ut its

walls .

D ush et is called a town but it hardly deserves ,

the n am e It re mi n ded u s of the streets or lan es of

.

Bak t c hi se r ai lled with low s m all sh ops or b oxes

, , ,

i n w hich di ffere n t articles are exposed for sale an d ,

w here all ki n ds of trades m e n w ere at work an d ,

eve n weavers of coarse li n en sitti n g u po n the ,

grou n d with their feet i n holes i n the earth A .

ch u rch an d so m e s urro un di n g villages with towers

, ,

l l
like fortication s deserve n otice , .

Arou n d D ush et there i s a good deal of open

space an d c ultivated lan d Here we saw the ;

Ge or gi an s a t labo u r w i t h t en pai r of ox e n an d buf

'

l
fa oe s an d ve m en e m p oyed for each plough
, ,

w hic h had a very extraordi n ary app e ar an ce

l
Havi n g changed horse s after occas i on all y asce n d ,

i n g an d desce n di n g we agai n r eached the ban ks

'

of the Ar a gu a W hic h w e had left at the c ast e of

'

A n an oor an d e n tered a n e an d d eli ghtful valley

l
, ,

m uch m ore O pe n than either the v a e of Pa ssa na

l
n oor or that of A n an oor
, .

The co un try n ow ass u m e d m ore the aspect of

c ltivatio
u n an d of h
t e beau ti ful than of t he W i ld
,
1
,

an d s ubl im e We soon en tered i n to a cross val ey

. -

on the ri ght an d le ft of the r oad c al e d by s oin e

'

z , ,

i
the V ale of Aragu a I t i s betw ee n twenty and .
'

th i rty m i le s i n len gth an d si x an d e igh t i n " '

Vi de p . 35 5 . of t his vo u l me .
 ll K H A R T I S K AR S T

breadth with gen t y elevated slopes fri nged r ichly

,

with wood an d lofty h i l s i n the back grou n d

,
.
M SK E T

,
.

-
4 93

l l
A fter havi n g see n the s it u atio n of T i i s I am s ur ,

l
prised that the vale of Aragu a had n ot r ather bee n
chose n as the site of the c apital of Georgia O n .

the sou th of this valley the Koz ak stati on Khar ,

t i sk ar st
, ge n erally ca l e d Khar ti sk or si m ply ,

R sk a i s beau t ifully situ ated on a ri si n g grou n d

,

a m id lofty trees Abou t t e n versts before r each

.

l
i n g this place we passed so m e ho u ses i n the form
,

of a squ are which are u sed as barr acks for i n fan try
, ,

an d a fe w K oz a ks We chan ged horses at Khar

.

t i sk ar st an d soo n ca m e i n sight of the r ui n s of a

,

castle on an i n s ulated hi l by the ban ks of the

, ,

l
Ar agu a From he n ce two n e old ch urches on
.

the west an d a r ui n e d castle on a bold proj ect

,

i n g rock on the east of the Aragu a an d w ith n e

, ,

i n ter m ixed scen ery m ake a beauti ful lan dscape

, .

l
We e n tered the s m a v illage of M sk e t n ow i n ha ,

bited by G eorgian s an d Arm e n ian s part of which ,

we absol utely rode over ; an d but for s m oked ,

holes se r vi n g as chim n eys i n the at earth covered

, ,
-

r oo fs of the ho u ses we shou d scarcely have dis

,

l
t i n gui sh e d the m fro m the roads or la n es wh i ch , ,

wi n d am on g the m I n m an y places they are half

l
.

'

u n der gro u n d an d s om e of the m are altogethe r

,

.
s ubterran ean They are b u ilt i n the sides of de
.

c iv i t i e s i n other places
,
like the h uts of the Kri
,

m ean T ar t ar s ; bu t they are n ot e n l i ve n ed by th e

l ux urian t fol i age wh i ch gives a cheer fu a spe ct to
4 94

l M S K E T TH E

the atter I n deed they i m pressed us wi th the i de a

.

of poverty an d wretched n ess an d are by n o m ea n s

i n harm o n y with t he rich sce n er y of the valley

.

,
KOOR .

which they lie or the m ou n tai n s by which it i s sur

,

roun ded M sk e t i s s upposed to be on e of the m ost

.

a n cie n t town s of the un i verse an d tradit i on says , ,

it was i n habi ted by som e of the earliest desce n dan ts

of Noah It was for m erly the cap i tal of Ge orgi a
.
,

an d w as the n twe n ty m iles i n c i rc u m fere n ce an d ,

is sai d to have co n ta in ed eighty thou san d m e n c a

.

pahle of be ar i ng arm s an acco un t wh i ch probably

l
was exaggerated tho ugh i t m u st be co n fessed that
, , ,

n u m ero u s r u i n s by the ban ks of t he Koor and i n

,
.

t he vici n ity testi fy that it was o n ce of co n s i derable

,

s i ze Sir R K Porter s upposes i t i s the A r tan i ssa

. . - .

an d the M i s e tt a of Po m pey an d the H ar m asti s of ,

Pli ny .

M sk e t n ow occ up i es the a n gle form ed by the -

l
con u e n ce of the Koor an d the Aragu a or the ,

Cyr u s an d the Arag us of th e Greeks whose u n ited ,

waters un der the form er appellatio n r un thro ugh

, ,

T i i s an d after a w i n di n g co u rse between Moghan

,

an d She e r van fal i n to the Caspian Sea n ear the

, ,

at its sou thern extre m ity .

. The obj ects wh i ch attract atten tio n here are the ,

debr i s of the palace of the a n c i en t tsa r s or ,

pri n ces of Georgi a or strictly speaki n g of K a,

.
, ,

chetia ; t he an c i e n t ch u rches an d a castle on the ,

east side of t he K oor . .

The n e cathedral ch urch wh i ch ri ses am i d the

 l CA T H E D R A L

r ui n s of the c zdtea u is on e of the best exam ples

,

of the s tyle of architect u re which has ge n erally

prevailed througho u t Georgia ever from the i n

.

,
4 95

t r od u c t i on of C hristi an ity up to the prese n t t i m e .

'

L ike the Greek te m ples i t i s b ui lt i n the for m of

,

a cross , an d rese m bles the c h u rc h of A n an oor ,

her eafter represe n ted tho ugh of m u ch greater

,

m ag n it u de .It i s con stru cte d e n ti rely of sto n e ,

hewn an d polished Ne ither iro n n or wood are

.

l
e m ployed i n i ts m assy stro n g walls arc h es or , ,

c upola . It i n teri or i s s u rro un ded by arcades ,

n either bea u ti ful n or well proporti on ed It i s .

still u sed for the perfor m a n ce of divi n e service ,

a fte r the Greek rit ual bu t i n the Georgi an an

,

g u age ; of co urse the fe w orn am e n ts with which

i t is decorated are all i n the Greek style
, .

The chapel of St Ni no who accordi n g to so m e

.
, ,

acco u n ts i n trod u ced Chri stia n ity i n t o Georgia i n

,

the begi nn i ng of the fo urth ce n t ury un der the ,

reign of the Tsar Mari an n ext attracted ou r atte n ,

tio n Som e state that Ni n o w ho beca m e the

, ,

patron ess of Georgia was carri ed captive to this

,

co un try i n the tim e of Con stan ti n e t he Great ,

a nd that Marian con vi n ced of the m irac u lo u s

,

c ures she perfor m ed by the power of her religion ,

bec ame a con vert to Chri sti an ity an d l ike V ladi , ,

m i r i n R u ss i a obliged his s ubj ects t o e m brace the

,

s am e faith O thers relate that St Ni n o we nt of

.

h e r own accord fro m Ro m e to Jer u sale m an d

, ,

fro m the n ce i n to Iberi a for the p u rpose of d i f,

fus i n g the tr ue faith an d that she bore a cro ss

, ,
 l
4 96 I N TR O D U C TI O N or C H R I STI A N I T Y .

m ade the vi n e bo un d with h e r hair ; an d holdin g

of , ,

it i n her han d preached the doctri n e of the E van

,

g e i st s This
. cross was care fully preserved by the

Tsars of Georgi a who duri n g thei r abse n ce d epo ,

'

sited it i n the cathedral of M sk e t W he n this ,

co un try was i n vaded by the Tu rks an d the Pers i an s ,

i n 1 7 2 0 it was carried i n to the m oun tai n s an d

, ,

r e m a i n ed for a wh i le i n the ch u rch of A n an oor ;

fro m whe n ce i t was afterwards se n t to the Tsa r e

vi t c h son of the tsar V ac ht an
( ) g at M oscow Th e , .

Tsar Heracliu s had often tho ugh withou t s u ccess , ,

r eclai m ed the revered rel i c fro m the desce n dan ts

of V ac h t an g Bu t at le n gth Pri n ce Bok ar ef;

, ,

n ephe w of the latter laid the cross at t h e feet ,

of the E m peror Alexan der who grac i ou sly restored ,

i t to Ge or gi a

I n the cathedral of M sk e t the an cie n t tsars

wer e crown ed an d the i r r e m ain s deposited after

ll
,

Vide r from th C a u d G e orgia Voyag

L e t te s e u c as s an . e en

P r e se p a M urir d K t z bue V oy g
a ce d Ch
e li r C har
o e . a es e eva e

P r tr

di n en t
e se e d e O ie t
au es I e ux r n .

A cco rdi g t M h im t h light f t he G o p el w i tro

n o os e , e o s as n

d ed i to I b i
uc n p ro ier a, aof A i ow c all d G i
v nc e
g i s a, n e e or a, n

t h foll owi g m
e n r A c ert i w om w a arri e d i t th t
an n e . a n an s c n o a

c o un t ry as p ti a d ri g t h r i g of C o t t i
ca ve , u th n e e n n s an ne e

ll
Gr t e a , an d by t h gr de r of h e m ir l d t h r m rk
an u er ac es , an e e a

l
a bl e san c tity f h lif d m er h e m d
o er h
e an im an n s, s a e s uc an

ll
pr sio p o t h ki g d q
es n u n e th t th y ab d o
n d th ir
an ue e n , a e an ne e

f l e g d e m br
a s o s, d t h f ith f t h G o p l
ac e d et t o Co
a o e s e , an sen n

t
s an ti n0 fo p rop r p r
e r t o gi teh m d th ir p op l
e s on s ve e an e e e a
p
m or e sat i f t ry
s ac o d mp t , k w l dg f t h Chri ti
an co e e no e e o e s an

e li gi H i to y o i p 338

r on . M o h im E s si
e ti s cc e as ca s r , v . . . .
 l
THE TS AR S

or GE O R G I A 1 497

l
.

death , l as tho se of the n obles A m on g

as w e .

m a n y to m bs those of the h im last Georgi an tsars

, ,

H eracli us an d hi s son George are the m ost c on

, ,

s i c u ou s bei n g r ai sed abou t a foot an d a ha f

p ,

fr om the gro un d n ear the cen tre of the n ave an d ,

on ea c h side of t he steps of th e am bon O ver .

l l
the m are cross plates wi th i n scription s in dicati n g , ,

t he n a m es t h e t itles ,t h e ti m e of bi r t h an d,

l
death of the r oyal person ages an d i n for m i ng u s ,
a

that th e s ep ulchre s were erecte d by the M ar mi i s de

Pau uc c i the n gover n or gen era of Georgia i n
'

-
, ,

co n seque n ce of an order to that e ffect fro m hi s

l
I m peri a Maj esty Alexan der I f m y n ot es be cor .

rect it i s plai n ly stated i n th e in scripti o n on th e

,

to m b of the Tsar George that h e ceded these ,

st ates t o R uss i a i n 1 8 0 1 s o that the appare n t m ark

of revere n ce for the dead m ight a s o h e i n te n ded ,

to re m in d the Georgi an s of the i r legal subj ection

t o R u ss i a Th i s power i s n ever w an ti n g i n nesse
.

t o acco m pl i sh h e r p urpo s e s of am b i t i o n an d ag
r an di se m e n t .
g
A n other ch u rch which we had pas se d on the ,

w est n ea r M sk e t i s sai d to be of m ore m odern

, ,

l
erection than the cathedral ; oth er wise it exactly
r ese m bles it both i n the exterior an d i n ter i or It .

i s n ow ou t of repa i r an d out of u se .

Up on an e m i n en ce t o the n orth are the r ui n s

of a fort co n stru cted by the Pr i n cess A m i ac h

v or of ab ove t wo thou san d year s ago

, an d part of ,

V OL . I . K K
498 A NE CD O TE AG E
'

. PA S S or TH E CA U C A S U S .

t he w alls re m ain e n tire t o a co n siderable he igh t '

The n ce you have a s uperb view ov e r the lon g

an d fr u itfu l valley of the Ar ag u a whic h ex ,

l
ten d s for th i rty versts i n tersp ersed with towers ,

a n d ham lets There is scarcely an y old castle that

.

h as n ot its tale of m u rder is n ot haun ted by a

'
'

ghost but the story goes h ere that this fort was ,

for a o n g ti m e i n ha bited by a pr i n cess of stro n g

-

passion s who u sed to e n tice yo u n g t ravellers to

h e r cas tle an d aft erwards have the m thrown fro m
,

th e top of on e of it towers in to the ri ver hopi n g ,

by these m ean s to co n ceal her cri m es an d sh am e

We w ere n ow withi n a station of T i i s an d ,

cou ld scarcely believe we had crossed th e C a uca

l
su s havi n g had the m ost erro n eou s i deas as t o the
,

i m m ense di fc ulties which were to be en c oun t e r e d nf

l
1 I h ad
c a r e m ark s

re ad rs
e
L e tt r
e s s ur

no i
e Cau c ase , & c
ki g y m i eralogic al o g e ologi
t me for m a
w orth p bli hi g w i th r s p e c t t o t h e C au c a us

.
n
,

Th e followi g xtrac t how e r m ay be i t e r t i g t o om e

e
u

s,
s n
n

ve
,
.

an

,
p . 1 09

e
.

n es
.

n
r

s
s .

l l
A c c or di g t o E g e lh rd t a d Parrot be t w e K obi a d

n n a n , en n

A ba n a,o t h e righ t ba k of t h e T e k t h
n roc k o i t of n r , e s c ns s

c om p a t gre yi h blac k sl t y li m e st o ; m m A ba a t o St e
c , s -
, a ne n

pan S m i d a of p p hy y n d lay l at e ; a d from th e c e t o

, OI r an c s n n

D i ari ou ly al t er ati g be d of g
ar , v s -
t o e ho n b nd l at e n s reens n , r en -s
,

blac k c om p c t t rapp g i a a d gr iti c i it e oc c ur A bout

, n e ss , n an s en . .

L ar c l y sl at e w ith gre e
s, a t o e i fou d ; a d l ow e r d ow
, n -s n , s n n ,
n,

from K ai t k i t o th f ot of t h e mo t i c om p c t gr y
u na e o un a n , a , e ,

brow
a d bl ac k li m e st o R i e i n di K y m d e K

n, n ne. e s e r an a n aa o

Ir ass , 1 8 1 2 .
 P A SS A GE or TH E CA U CA S US . 4 99

Madam e Fr eygan c h has give n quite a rom a nti c

an d terri c descriptio n of the r oa d i t s i n c on v e ,

l
l
ry of t h ll y of the Tere k whi ch stre t he t o
A t the e nt e va e , c s

th o th o th
e s u t a d w hi h
-s u t th -e asorth r C a
,
n c cu s a e n e n u c as us ,

th m o e t ai t h righ t
un d l ft
n s on f tr it i lim t
e an e ar e o an s on e s on e ,

a ft rw rd f rgill o
e a s o hi t s th high r p i
a ac e d us s c s u , en, e u ,
n as c e n

i g t h ri r f i it e
n e ve B hi d D i t h i i t i k
, o s en .d e n ar e s en e s n s , an

b lt i t rr p t d by m o nt i of rgill o hi t b gi
as a ,
n e u e u a ns a ac e us s c s us , e ns

l
t ob ; it
e tr t h
se en t o ly i t t h hi gh t p rt f t h
s e c es no n n o e es a o e

C b t l
au c as us , i t t h m o t l at d p rti th t i t i
u a so n o e s e ev e o on a s ne

c e ss aryt d i ord r t p
o as c e n from t h ll y f t h Ter k
n e o ass e va e o e e

l
,

i t o th t of t h A rag it u t d pp it t o t h o th Voy g
n a e ua , s a e o os e e s u . a e

l
au M t C on & p M J Kl p roth
a u c a se , i p 444
c. ar . . a , vo . . . .

Th ro k f t h M e t i of t h C ro
c o i e r ddi h brow ou n a n e ss s a e s - n

ba l ti p orphyry
sa c ry m p t m i d w ith m yg dal oid
, ve d
co ac , xe a e s , an

di p o e d i al m t hori z t al tr t a
s s n V y g p
os K p oth on s a . o a e ar a r ,

v o i p 48 6
. . . .

Th m t el at d ri dg o t h c r s t of t h e C
e os ev e i e, r e e au c as u s , s

c om p o d of i it se gr i t d b lti c p rphyry whi h i

s en e, an e, an as a o , c n

m y pl
an i i t rrup t d i t h dir ti
ac es , s n e of t h orth by e ,
n e ec on e n ,

a rgill hi t
ac e ou s s c d w hi h i fr q tly
s us , rm t d by
an c s e ue n su ou n e

b ltic m m it Th i it i om m o ly f gr i h
as a su s. e s en e s c n o a e en s co

l
l o r Sp t t d w ith whit
u ,
or o om t im
e d rki h e t o gr y ; e s e es a s , ve n e

s om tim e m r cl r es d f a gr
o e Thi r t p r t
ea , an o a se - een . s c es esen s

a m of o t i
as s d r oc k c it i n ith rnue re d with rth o s s ne e c ov e ea n r

w i th p l t b t w i th p rp t l i
an s , u d e e ua c e an

Th m o t i eof m i ddl h ight e o re d with a p i

un a ns e e ar c ve ne

l
pl t a d p r d
an s , nx ll t p t r g o d
uc e ry h y
e ce en as u a e an ve ne a .

Thi hi t s sc p i lly i t h pl
s us , e s whe r i t i
ec a f lc r o n e ac e s e s o a ca a e us

t r
na u e, pr t m y i ll d w ith p th d q rt z w hi h
e sen s an ve ns, e s a an ua , c

ar e g r lly t h g gene a fm t l d w hi h o t ai i dif

e an u es o e a s , an c c n n, n

f t pl
er en gl oft
ac e s , ry ri h i il r opp r
a e n a, en ve c n s ve , c e , su

p h our e d r i c l pyri t
u s , an d bi m th
a se n Thi chi t ia e s , an s u . s s s us s

im m ediat ely follow e d by lim whi h i s of t he nat ure of m arble e, c ,

K K Q
5 00 P A SS A GE or TH E CA U CA S U S .

l
its dangers ; an d sh e is eq u alled i f n ot
n i e n c es an d ,

su rpasse d by Sir R P orter I n the w orks of these

,
. .

au thors the words d an ger peril chas m abys s pre , , , ,

.

l
c ip i c e robbers ban ditti tre m e n do u s
, terrible an d , , , ,

l
s u ch like con ti n u al y appal u s yet ou r j ou rn ey w as ,

r em ar kably pleasan t E xcept i n a fe w places the .

,

r oad was very good an d w e scarcely ever had t o ,

a i ght from our horses : in deed I n m ost plac es we , ,

cou ld e i ther trot or gallop The d i sag r eea b es are .

already d etaile d an d ar e bu t what tra vellers sho uld ,

expect u n til R u ssia has her p ublic m o n ey better

,

expe n ded by those who are e n tr u sted with the

care of the roads an d the acco m m odatio n s for ,

s tran ge r s .

in plac e s e i other c oars e r a d alm os t always of

s om e n , n s ,
n

a whi t e c ol our This ch i whic h i e e e ough i ithe r s o

. a n, s v n n , s ne

l
h igh o o s t e e p as t h e s c h is t ou
n r s roc k a d i s g e e rally s ,
n n

l
l
c o e re d w ith arg ill ac e o
v e arth S ali e s pri g ar e rare at us . n n s

t h e foot of thi c hai a d o e d oe s ot m e e t w i t h t h e s m alle s t

s n, n n n

t rac e of m e t al Vid e Voy g u M o t C u
s. -
i G o gi a e a n a cas e c en e r e,

p arM J Klap roth o ii pp 2 7 5 2 7 6 But fo f rthe r m i

. .
, v . . .
, . r u n

e a ogi c a i form ati o

r I m u s t re c om m e d t h e re ad r t o p e rus e
n n n e

t h e w ork i t s elf

l
.

Th e C au c a us i s a p im i t i e c hai sc o t ai i g i ma y
'

r v n, n n n , n n

l
plac e c ol um ar t rapp
s, T h ol d r se c o dary r oc k s o i t s
n . e e ,
n , n

l
n orthe r bord e r a e a c o t i ati o of tho e whi h form t h e
n , r n nu n s c

highe t m ou t ai s o t h e s outh oast of t h e C rim e w he r

s n n n c a, e

p im iti e roc k a e Wholly w ti g Vide A O t i of th
r v s r an n . n u ne e

G o ogy o f R s i by t he H o T H F Stra gw y s i t h e
'

e u s a, n. . . n a n
.
,

Tr sa tio s of th e G e ologi al S oc ie ty (se c on d s eries) vo i

an c n c , . .

p 1 p 38
t . . . .
 P A SS AG E or TH E CA U C ASU S . 5 01

Colo n el Joh n so state m e n t is very cor rect
n s

Notw i thstan di n g says h e , the appallin g an ti
,

c i at i on s that we had bee n led to for m of t h e

p
Ca u cas u s we fo un d very little di fc u lty i n pass in g
,

those m o u n tai n s T he roads are i n ge n eral very

.

good an d practicable eve n for wheel carriage s

,

l
thro ugho ut There is o n ly on e r an ge of m o un tai n s
.

l
to traverse an d the passage is by n o m ea n s s o ar
,

d uou s as that of al m ost all the ghau ts i n I n dia . ,

the decl i vi ties bei n g n othi n g n ear s o steep T h e .

acco un ts given to u s h ad foretold n ot o n ly d ifc u

,
r

ties but per i s I f a traveller fro m i n ability t o

.
,

ride on horseback wish es t o use a travelli n g car

,

r i a e throu gho u t the whole way he o u ght to take

g ,

l
with h i m a R u ssian su balter n o fcer to ass i st hi m ,

an d especially to provide a n escort of sol di ers t o

help the carri age through the m ost di f c u lt places .

At som e of these he m u st expect to walk perhaps

ve h u n dred yard s at a ti m e here the difc u tie s
are greate s t an d t he tre m e n d ou s precipices a d
,

j o in i n g are likely to alarm a p e rson u n u sed to c on

te m plate the m but they do n ot frequ en tly occ ur
, .

O n the whole the fac i lities afforded by the R u s

,

sian com m an dant s are so great an d the expe n se s ,

of tr avelli n g so m oderate that to traverse the ,

Cau cas us ought n ot n ow t o b e regarded as a

for m idable u n dertaki n g O n t he c o n trary t he
.
,

stupe n do u s gran de u r of sce n ery the beauty an d ,

vari ety of lan dscapes the n ovelty of m ann er s

, ,

K K 3
5 09 P A S S AG E or TH E CA U CA S U S .

costu m e an d habits of the people observable on

, ,

th i s r o ute co m bi n e t o charm the atten tio n of

,

the travelle r an d t o re n der hi m alm ost un c on scio u s

,

of

The traveller however m u st n ot be throw n , ,

altogether off his gu ard Man y t ravellers h ave .

spoke n of the O s se t i n i an s who reside n ear the e n ,

viro n s of V ladikavk az lyin g I n wait for passe n ,

gers w ho m they carry off an d detain as prison ers

, ,

un ti l they obtai n a ran so m e for the m fro m the

R u ssian s This horrid practice of extortin g m o n ey
.

'

has s u bsisted a m on g this people for upwards of

forty years an d they p u rs u e it so co n stan tly that
,

s carcely three m o nths pass i n w hich so m e pas

s e n ger of n ote is n ot waylaid an d captu red by

the m The m ost dan gero u s spots are passe s u p

.

n ar row chas m s leadi n g to the m o un tai n s whic h

, ,

ar e so di fc u lt of access that i n order to p u rs u e ,

l
an d overtake these freebooters i t wo uld r equ ire ,

large bodies of light troops expressly trai n ed for

l
,

l
this ser vi c e 1 Bu t i t m u st be allowed that the
.
L

savage m o u n tain eers acc u stom ed from their you th ,

to the ascen t an d desce n t of d i fc ult d e e s an d ,

clam beri n g a m o n g the rocks a n d havi n g a perfect ,

k n owledge of a t he m o un tain p asses an d fast

i
l
it
A Journ e y from
i l
g , R uss a, Po an d, an d P uss a , i n t h e e
Co
a

Jh
o n s on , C B , L on d on , 1 8 1 8 ,

Ib di p. . 260
p 645
.2
.
.
i
I nd a to
r i
E ng la n d,

.
through P rsia G o
.
.
e

y ar 1 8 1 7 By Lie ut
, e r

.

 P A S S AG E OF TH E CA U CA S U S . 5 03

n esses w ill lo n g be able to el ude thei r p u rs uers

, ,

l
an d to m ake s u re their retreat .

The m ost form idable drawbacks on the pleas u re

o f passi n g thro u gh the P or t a Ca uc a si a arise fro m

cau ses agai n st which th e traveller c an provide n o

l
safegu ard I all u de to overwhel m in g a va a nches
.
,

an d the down fall of i m m e n se m asses of precipito u s

m o u n tai n s that o ften follow the tha w wh i ch take s

,

place i n th e s up erior region s of the m o un tai n s da

l
ri n g the heat Of s um m e r S u ch a va an ches an d s u ch
.
,

m asses of rock have beco m e s u dde n ly detached an d

, ,

have in a m o m en t been laun ched down wards to the

, ,

l
v alley overthrowi n g every O bj ect whic h O ppose d

l
their progress l i n g up ravin es an d obstru cti n g
, ,

the m oun tai n stream s an d rivers so as ofte n to ,

cau se them to chan ge their co u rse As th e reader .

w ill re m ar k by an d by had we passed t he d e e

,

of Dar i bu t two or three weeks later we m ight ,

all have been swallowed u p un der the r ui n s i f I ,

m ay so speak of an adj o i n i n g m o un tai n w hose

, ,

proj ectin g cliffs fell with an awfu l crash were ,

broken i n to a tho usan d for m s an d dam m e d up the

,

T erek .

K K 4
 l
CH AP . x11 .

R OM AN BR I D GE C A VE RN S . V I EW

O E T F LfS .

ARRI VA L A T TI FL i s .
L O DGI N Gs . - GE NE R A L YE R M L O F .

G E NE R AL vI L Y E M fNO E . M R . GR A B AR I T C H . H I ST O R Y O I;

T I E L fS . D E R 1 VA T I O N OF IT S N AM E ., S I T UA T I O N . PO F UL A

TI ON . DI V I S I O N s . A P E A R A N CE
P OF Ti E L I S I TS S T R E E T S
. .

I TS H OU S S
E . B O O R DO O K S O F W I NE CUR RE N T M O NE YJ '

THE BA z AR s . GE N E R A L YE R M L O F S
C A R A VA N S E R A I S .

H O U S E T H E A R S E N A L T H E P U B L I C GA R D E N S T H E D E .

POT DE S CA R T E s N E w S Q UA R E A N E CD O T E T H E C AS T L E
. . . .

THE S UB U R B A V L A B A R I I T S O L D F O R T R E SS
. TH E .

C R O W N B A T H S C H A M PO O I N G L U XUR Y O T H E B A T H S
-
. . F .

T E M P E R A T U R E O F T H E S PR I N G s T H E I R G E N E R A L N A . .

T UR E .M I NE R A L O G I C A L R E M A R K S
_
S I N G U L A R D I VE R S I O N . .

C O R R UP T I O N O F M o R A L s - A N A L B I N O S . .

A F TE R ridin g a co u ple of v e r st s beyo n d M sk et we ,

reached a br i dge across the Koor wh i c h i s ank e d ,

 R OM A N B R I D GE

l
l
l
.

by two sq uare ge n tly taperi n g towers on ho d pic

t u r e s que rocks P o m pey i s said to h ave b u i t this
.

bridge for th e passage of hi s arm y an d the towers ,

l
for its defe n ce ; bu t t h e au tho r of L ettr es s ur e '

Ca uc ase &c conj e ct ur es that they were erected by

, .

the P ri n ce G e de v an of, w ho had p os se ssi on of this

n eighbo u rhood be fore the arrival of Po m pey It .

is there fore c e ar t hat both had their o r i gi n i n

rem ote an tiqu ity The bases of the arche s alon e "

re m ai n of thei r anc ie n t str u ctu re .

l
This bridge an d towers wi th th e s urro un di n g ,

sce n ery str u ck u s as be in g extre m ely pict u resqu e ;

,

a n d on that acco u n t I hav e i v e n a v i ew of the m

, g , x

i n the vig n ette on the oppos i te page so as to e n a ,

ble the r ea der to j u dge for h i m se f as a uthor s ,

l
h ave pro n ou n ced very vari ou s Opi ni on s up on th i s
poi n t .

It i s a stran ge diseas e of the h um an m in d ,

s ay s K otzeb u e on ly to a dm ire a th in g i n propor

,

t i on as i t has a r e m ote or ig in I wi l ven tu re t o . .

a ssert that w i tho u t the m agic of the great n am e

,
.

of P o m pey we sho uld have passed the bridge

,
.
-

withou t h avin g gi ve n i t the least atten tion ; we

.

e xam in ed it howe v er as on e of the won d ers of

, , . _

t h e w orld T h i s sto n e s ays o n e prese n ts all

-
, z ,

ll
r

the vestiges of a high an tiquity ; these arches , .

s ays an other ar e at the sam e ti m e

, l ight an d- .

s tro n
g ; t h e
y d o n ot n o w work i n th i s m an n er
.

c r i es a th i rd O n e of our c om p an i on s c ons i dr a
. .

a vec r avi s se m ent deua t our e d ont s ommet

'
:
es, . , e
 l
lll

l
5 06

l
r e ss e rn h e

E st h on i e , et
CA V E R N S

bea uc oup
i

a

.

n os

s s e x t asi a s ur

word every on e so ught i n this m on u m en t a sub

,
S C E NE R Y

fr om ag es
e ur e
.

eg an ce
p oi n t us

.

ae

In a

j e c t of i n terest an d ad m i ratio n As for m e i f it .

,

be n ecessary to say it w hat I fou n d m ost m ar

,

vello n s was a R u ssian gre n ad i er on g u ard u pon the

l
bridge of the Great Po m pey It is tru e that i f .
,

l
Po m pey sho uld r et urn to t he world this c i r c u m ,

stan ce w ou ld strike hi m m ost I thi n k Mr . .

Kotzeb u e by the for m er part of h i s ow n op in ion

,

S hows very bad taste ; bu t w i th the a t ter I per

, ,

fe c t y coi ncide I believe b oth Po m pey an d h i s

.
,

of cers an d his arm y wo uld cry i n t h e lan gu age

, , ,

o f s u rprise an d co n te m pt What Scythian s i n the ,

warm cli m ate of Asia ! ret urn to the barbarou s

region s of the n orth the Ca u cas u s i s yo u r n at u ral
barrier !
A fter cross i n g the bridge the r oad ret urn s alon g ,

t h e oppos i te ban k of the Koor m aki n g on the whole , , ,

a d et our of abo u t fo u r v ersts to pass th i s r iver .

We were aston is hed to n d n u m ero u s cavern s l i ke

those i n m an y parts of the K r i m e a hewn out O f the ,

solid rock an d so m e Of t he m at a co n s i derable

'

height i n its perpe n dicular face They served as a .

place of retreat to the i n hab i tan ts of M sk e t w he n ,

they w ere attacked by th e ir e n em i e s

'

O ur ro u te led alo n g the ba n ks o f the Koor for a ,

short d i stan ce an d then a plai n open ed before u s

, ,

with Ti fli s at i ts extre m ity We n ow e m erged .

fro m am o n g the m o un tai n s an d ba de i a di e u to ,

-
 l
charm in g valleys wooded hills an d g r ee n past ures
,

I had a m ost said to vegetation The tran sitio n

from delight ful to dreary sce n es is so s u dde n as to
prod u ce pai n ful em oti on s O n both sides the .
,

,
.
,

View w as n ow bou n ded by n aked sterile h ills at

s om e distan ce The grass was b urn ed up and th e
.
,

plai n had a gloom y appearan ce which grad ually ,

i n creased as we approa c hed T i i s The corn was .

already reape d an d the elds o n ly prese n ted

,

s t u bble . We saw this town at that tim e to great ,

d isadvan tage . Be fore the wet seaso n has withered

l
e v ery blade of grass or after the coun try has
,

recovered its e ffects it m u st have a m ore i nvi t

,

l
i n g appearan ce Still howe v er I am certain that
.
, ,

I sho uld n ev er have agreed with th e fair au thor O f

L e ttr e s sur e Ca uc a se &c that where the plai n
, .

grad u ally con tracts i n to a n arrow valley at the ex ,

t r e m i ty of which is T i i s the sce n e is beau tifu

, ,

partic u larly whe n viewi n g the town wit h its n u me ,

rou s towers an d ch u rches of every colo u r glitter , ,

i n g i n the s u n .

We cro ssed a s m all stre am by a sto n e bri dge , ,

a n d soo n reached the barrier of the town u po n ,

the top of a hill where we left ou r order for post

,

hors es which also served as a ki n d of passport A

,
.

little farther on we gave i n ou r certicate of health

from the captai n of A n an n oor to the ch i ef of the ,

u aran t i n e of Ti i s We n ow pass ed i n to the

q .

town but had m u c h difc u l t y i n n di n g lodgi n gs

, .

A n E n gl i sh m a n m a de h i m sel f k n own to u s an d .

,
5 08 L O D GI N G s . GE NE R AL Y E R M OL O F .

co n d u cted us t o an i n n kept by a Germ an w ho ,

gi ves good di n n ers but has n o apart m e n ts for tra

,

y ellers
. D uri n g ou r repast t wo room s were foun d
,

at an Arm en ian s of the n am e of Pi r an of .

O n th e follow i n g m or n i n g the com m an dan t,

called u po n us to offer a lodgi n g which we readily ,

accepted ; bu t w e afterwards regretted hav i n g don e

SO. We got excellen t roo m s i n the ho use of a
R u ssian m aj or where we were m ost un welco m e
,

i n tr uders an d where we s u ffered great i n c on ve n i

,

e n ce fro m the di fc u lty O f proc u ri n g the com mon est

article of n ecessity O n e c an scarcely b e su rprised
.

a t their n ot havi n g sh ow n greater eager n ess to serve

us. What wou ld an E n gl i sh m aj or th in k of havi n g

fo u r foreign ers of who m he k n ew n othi n g se n t to
, ,

l
lodge at his ho use for as m an y days as they chose
, ,

perhaps w i thou t any warn in g except h i s ge n eral s
,

com plim en ts
Whe n we were at G eOr gI e vsk we were i n ,

form ed th at Ge n eral Ye r m of; co m m an der-i n

chief O f the forces i n Georgia w as go n e i n to the ,

ll
m o u n ta in s t o s uperi n te n d the erecti o n of s o m e
fortresses alo n g their base so as m ore e ffectu ally
,

to restrai n the ferociou s tr i bes of t he Cau cas u s

l
an d we h ad despatched our letters to hi m by post ,

m e n t i o n i n g the ti m e we sho u d arr i ve at Ti i s

.
.

O n e of the ai des d e cam p of Ge n eral V i ye m i n of;

- -

the secon d i n com m an d w aited u pon u s wi th a

,
-

v ery pol i te letter fro m Ge n eral Ye r m of i n w h ic h

, ,

am on g other things w as hi s advi ce as t o the p ar t of

, ,
 l
G E NE R A L V I L YE M IN O E . M E . GR A B AR I T CH . 5 09

Georgia we shou ld vi sit d uri ng our stay Gen eral

, .

V i ye m i n of at th e sam e ti m e i n vited u s to din n er

, , ,

through h i s aide de cam p at the early ho u r of on e

- -
,

l

o clock which we fo un d to be the u s u al d in n er hou r
,
-

of polite society all of who m take a s i est a after their

,

n early m i d day repas t

- We d in ed wi th a n u m ber .

of O fcers an d dran k so m e excelle n t Georgian

,

wi n e The ge n e r a was re m arkably hospitable

.
,

bot h on this occasio n an d d u rin g ou r stay i n T i i s .

We e m ployed the aftern oo n i n m aki n g v isits walk ,

i n g i n the p u blic garde n s exam i n i n g the baths 85 0 , , .

an d i n the eve n i n g the co m m an dan t co n d u cted u s

,

to his ho u se to s u pper an d was extre m ely C iv il , .

We fou n d Mr Gr abar i t c h (for that was his n am e )

.

l
a very s in gular m an H e i s a H un garian by birth .
,

l l
bu t havi n g bee n lo n g i n the s ervice of R u ssia h e
, ,

spoke the lan g u age of that co u n try pretty well .

H e i s on e of the m ost r estless person s I ever saw

l
stan di n g or sitti n g his body an d im bs were c on
,

t i n u a y chan gi n g the i r positio n H e speak s a little .

Fre n ch Germ an L ati n an d Italian j argon H e

, , , .

plays on the ute the age o e t the gu itar an d the

, , ,

pian o forte but on n o n e of the m wel H e prete n ds

- .

to have discovered three n otes lower than the

u s u al vocal scale ; but they m ore rese m bled the

low h oarse gr un ts of a pig than the soun ds of

, , ,

th e h u m an voice His playi n g an d si n gi ng partook

.

of the restless n ess of his corporeal syste m he be

an m an y t un es an d n i shed n o n e ; an d all h i s
g ,
510

l
H I ST O R Y

i n stru m e n ts as wel as h i s voice w er e i n req uisi

,

t i o n withi n the space of a fe w m i nu tes

OF

The prese n t political sit uati o n of T i i s adds a

T i F L fS

,
.

degree of i n terest t o the acco un t O f this town ,

which it did n ot form erly possess Som e prete n d .

to have traced its fo u n dati on to the year 4 69 an d

l
,

attrib ute it to V ac h t an g a powerfu l an d victorio u s

,

sovereign who at th at epoch van qu ished all the

,

co un tries betwee n the E u xin e an d the Caspian

Seas It was co n siderably au g m e n ted an d e m bel
.

i sh e d after h i s reig n an d beca m e on e of the m os t

,

re m arkable tow n s of the n orth of Asi a The Tsar .

David as hereafter m e n ti on ed wished t o re n der it

, ,

an abo d e for the scie n ces ; but it does n ot appear

that either his efforts or those of an y of h i s suc

,
~

c e ssor s , were very fortun ate Chardi n gives an .

i n terestin g accou n t of T i i s ac c om p an i e d w i th a ,

gen eral v i e w w hi c h con v eys an excelle n t idea of the

,

place as it was 1 5 0 years ago . It was the n a tow n

l
of co n s i derable s i ze but of n o very i m posi ng ap
,

p e ar an c e . I n the ti m e of the Tsa r Heracli u s T i i s ,

"

l
con tai n ed 4000 ho u ses an d i n habitan ts
, .
g

T i i s i s n ow the capital of the R u ssian g over n

m en t or p r ovi nce of Georgi a an d was for m er y ,

the cap i tal of the ki n gdo m of the sam e n am e an d ,

the reside n ce of the ki n gs of K ar t a i n i a It is .

situ ated i n a n arrow valley u pon the Koor an d be ,

;

L e t te rs from the C auc asus p ,

. 1 33 .
 I TS N AM E SI T U T I O N A P O P U L A T I O N 511

l l
. . .

l
twee n the right ban k of the river an d an elevated
m o u n tai n which as it wer e overhan gs it an d
, , , ,

u po n which the citadel is placed I t s tr u e n am e .

is said to b e Tp hi i ssi or T p hi i s kalaki i e war m ,

-
, . .

l
tow n an appel ation which it received on acco u n t
of its war m spri n gs Its geograp hical positio n has
.

bee n v ario u sly state d Accordin g to Br ook e s s .

G azetteer it lies u n der 4 4 5 6 E L o n g an d 4 1
,

. .

4 0 N L at ; bu t agreeab y to an o bs ervatio n of
. .

Capt M on teith its real latit u de i s 4 1

.
, It is

distan t 2 62 7 versts or abo u t 1 7 5 1 m iles fro m Pe

, ,

t e r sbu r gh an d 1 900 or 1 2 67 m iles fro m Moscow

, , , .

l
The town of T i i s i n 1 8 1 2 was said to be on ly
the shade of T i i s as described by Chardi n i n
,

1 67 8. Scarcely was a third of it reb uilt after its ,

l
destru ctio n by Aga M ah om m e d i n 1 7 95 Its i n
- .

habitan ts are Georgian s Arm e n i an s M i n gr e i an s , , ,

Persian s Tartars L e sghe e s &c A ccordi n g to

, , , .

Klaproth i n 1 8 1 2 the pop u latio n i n depen de n tly O f

, , ,

the R u ssian emp oy e s an d t he garrison am o un t ed to ,

on e hal f of who m were Ar m e n ia n s By .

the accou n ts of others if we i n cl ude the person s ,

e m ployed by the R u ssian gover n m e n t an d the gar ,

r iso n the total pop u latio n of T i i s m ay be esti m ated

,

ll
a t abo u t
- so uls I n 1 8 2 2 it was ro un dly stated
.
,

at excl u si v e of the m ilitary ; but tho ugh this

s tate m e n t was obtai n ed fro m high a u thority I r e ,

gard i t as an exaggeratio n E v ery i n div id u al i n .

the serv ice k n owi n g Ge n era Ye r m of s favo urite
sche m e of restor ing T i i s to i ts o u rish i n g state ,
 l
512 P O P UL A TI O N .
- D I V I S I ON S .

of r e n d e r m g I t an E u ropeantown i n i ts appear
an ce an d of e n cou ragin g its co m m erce see m s
, ,

i n cli n ed to overrate its prosperi ty I f its p op u a .

tio n am o un t t o so uls beside s the m ilitary

, ,

l
as a m ore can did i n divi d ual sai d it i s m ost pro , ,

bably th e u tm ost exte n t

, .

Klaproth received the follow in g acco un t f ro m

the police of T i i s : There were i n this town i n ,

l
1 8 1 2 1 Georgian patriarc h (K a tho i k os ) ; 1 G e or
,

gian m etropolitan ; 5 5 G eorgi an pri ests ; 1 Greek

a r c hi r e i 3 Greek a r chim andr i t e s 1 Ar m e n ia n

l
archbishop ; 7 3 Ar m e n ian pri ests : 8 Arm e n ia n
a r c hi r e i s 4 C atho i c pri ests C er e s ) ; 1 T artar
p
'

e en d i 1 60 Georg i a n pri n ces ; 2 1 6 ge n tle m en ;

1 988 b u rgesses ; 2 5 1 peasa n ts ; 4 2 6 slaves serva n t s ,

of ge n tle m e n ; an d 8 68 4 m a i sons p ar t i cu i er es No .

do ubt three fo urth s of the latte r w e r e no more

,

than very m ean hu ts .

T i i s i s s u rro un ded by a w all of a tri an gular

l
for m an d h as Si x gate s (or r athe r t he n am es of
,

form e r gates ) wh i c h are still u sed It i s divi d ed

.

i n to three parts 1 st T i i s properly so calle d or

, , ,

the an c i e n t town i n wh i c h are the w arm bath s

, ,

very s m al an d on the east of the Koor 2 d K ala

, , ,

or the fortress s itu ate d to the n orth of t he pre

,

cedin g ou the w est Of that r i ver and whic h i s

, ,

m ore pop u lo u s ; an d 3 d the su b u rb Is n i or A v

, ,

1ab ari which is separated fro m the other d i vi sio n s

,

by the Koor bu t i s con n ected with the m by th e

,

o n ly bri dge across th is r i ver i n the c i ty Not .

 A PP E A R A N C E OF T i F L fS . 518

very lon g ago there were at T i i s n early twe n ty

,

ch urches of the Greek religio n fteen Arm e n ian

ch u rches an d on e ch u rch of the Rom an Catholic
fai th ad m i n istered by Italian cap u ch i n s
, The .

Persian s have also a m osqu e .

The Cathedral is very an cie n t of n e architecture , ,

an d of co n siderable s i ze It is called the ch u rch of

.

Z io n an d was repaired by orders of Pri n ce T c hit

,

z i an of who co m m a n ded the R u ssia n ar m y i n Ge or

,

gia for a n u m ber of years Som e of the other .

ch u rches rese m ble those at A n an oor an d M sk et .

I agree with Sir R K Porter that Ti i s will

. .
,

give u s very i n correct i deas O f As i atic gran de u r .

l
This a uthor well re m arks That the town itsel f
,

stan ds at the foot of a li n e of dark an d barre n hills ,

whose high an d cavern ed sides gloo m ily overshadow

i t E very ho u se every b u ildi n g withi n its walls
.
, ,

see m s to share the dis m a hu e of the s u rro un di n g

h eights ; for a deep black n ess rests on all The .

hoary battle m en ts above an d the still m aj esti c

,

tower s of the an cie n t citadel ; the spires of Chris

tian ch u rches an d other m arks of Eu ropean resid
,

e n ts even their testi m on ies of past gran deu r an d ,

presen t co n sequ en ce ; an d what is m ore presen t

, ,

Christian brotherhood ; co ul d n ot for som e ti m e , ,

erase the horrible d un geon i m pressio n of Asiatic

d i rt an d barbaris m received at rst V i e w of the
,

town .

We e n tered Tii s at the worst season of the year ,

an d expe r i e n ce d very d i sagreeable se n sati on s an d ,

V OL . I . L L
514

l STR E E TS A N D H O U SE S OF T I F L IS .

l
co n sid erable disappoi n tm en t A m i serable g o o m y .

l
town hy the side O f a m u ddy ri ve r s urro un ded by
,

,

l
bleak sterile h i lls an d parched corn elds i n s ultry ,

weather an d on ly e n i ve n ed by a fe w exotic gree n

,

l
trees was n ot likely to prod u ce any bu t m elan
,

c h o v i m press i o n s an d the desire of a s hort resi d

,

e n ce The cl im ate tho ug h O ften n e i s un hea thy ;

.
, ,

an d the heat s o I n s u ppo r table that the i n habitan ts ,

are g a d to wi thdra w the m selves to the hills at

twe n ty or t hirty versts distan ce D u ri n g ou r abode .

at T i i s the te m peratu re n ever exceeded 9 1 E ;

bu t the ai r w as i n descri bably s ultry At ti m es .

,

h owever the therm o m eter i n the sha d e ri ses to

, , ,

38 R

118 F

. .

T he streets or rather I sho uld say the lan es of

, ,

l
T i i s are for the m ost part very n arrow an d ir
, , , ,

r eg ular beyo n d descri pt i o n E xcept i n those places .

wh i ch have been reb uilt i n the E uropean style ,

l
there i s n ot on e which i s straight The ho u ses as .
,

w el as the i r e n clos i ng walls are b u ilt of broad at ,

bri cks ofte n m ixed with co m m on sto n es or form

, ,

l
i n g alter n ate layers wi th th e m an d bo u n d together ,

with m u d m i xed wi th a i ttle l i m e E xcept i n the .

best ho u ses t he r e ar e n o glazed w i n dows Com

.
,

m on paper an d O iled paper are here u sed as a sub

st i t u t e for glass whic h i s e x c e ssI v e dear beca u se
, y ,

there are n o glass m an ufactori e s i n Georgi a The .

doors ope n in g i n to the co urts ofte n an swer the ,

p urpose of w in dows The greatest part of the town .

i s excessively n asty The Koor i s di rty an d O fte n .

,
 B O O R DO O K S OF WI N E . 515

O ff ens i ve ; the p ublic m arkets are dirty ; m an y of

the bat hs are lthy ; an d i n fact i n Sp i te of all , ,

the R u ssian i m prove m e n ts Ti i s see m ed on e of ,

the m ean est an d m ost disagreeable town s I ever

saw ; but an ex cessively b u sy place .

I n passi n g thro u gh the streets of T i i s the ,

appare n tly stuffed ski n s of b uffaloes hogs an d , ,

goats stan di n g upon st um ps s u rprised u s an d we

, , ,

were am u sed at s e e i n g t h e n e w i n e of K ac hti a

/

draw n off fro m s u ch receptacles The n atives .

keep the wi n e i n e n orm o u s earthe n j ars un der the ,

earth i n this district ; but for its tran sport these

,

sk in s are e m ployed Their hairy sides are c o

.

vered w ith a coati n g of n aphtha an d the n tu rn ed ,

i n s i de ou t This co m m u n icates a disagreeable

.

avo u r an d taste to the wi n e to which the Ge or ,

gian s are accu stom ed bu t which is highly disagree ,

able to stran gers These prepared ski n s are called

.

boor d oohs Barrels are n ot u sed at all an d few

.
,

bottles the latter cost si x or ei ght tim es the price

of the wi n e Gen eral Hofe n told u s he had O fte n
.

tho ught of establishin g a bottle m an ufactory n ear

T i i s bu t that they co uld n ot n d good san d for
,

the p u rpose Wi n e i s sold here by the t ung a a

.
,

m eas u re of abou t seve n good sized bottles A - .

l
t ung a O f co m m o n w i n e of K ac h t i a I S sold at s i xty ,

or eighty k op e ek s an d the best sorts at 1 00 or

,

1 2 0 kope c ks ; i e abo u t seve n bottles are sold at

. .

fro m 6d to 1 s or for a pen n y an d twop e n ce p e r

. .
, , ,

bott e . It i s n ot there fore su rpri sin g that t h e

L L 2
516 C UR R E N T M O NE Y .
TH E BA z AR s .

people as regularly dri n k wi n e as the E ngl i sh do

porter I m en tion the prices i n kope c ks as bein g
.

l
better k n own than the a baz es of the cou n try fou r ,

of wh i ch are abo u t eq u al to a silver ro ubl e At .

ou r visit gold an d silver especially d u cats form ed

, ,

the chie f circ ulatin g m edi u m The n ative coin s .

h ave the Pers i an n am es of d ciu h e a haz es a baz es an d , ,

h alf a haz es

R u ssi an copper m o n ey an d Silver an d paper , ,

were also plen tifu l at T i i s The paper m on ey was .

exchan ged with a pre m ium O f eight an d eve n n i n e ,

r o u bles u po n the h un dred ; so that it is h i gher than

,

at Moscow where I n ever kn ew it exceed e ight

,

r o u bles .

ll
The B azaar s tho ugh of late m u ch i m proved yet
, ,

have n o i m posi n g appearan ce The shops are ar .

r an ged alo n g a covered alley which is a co m plete ,

t horou gh fare Som e of the m are very dark an d

.
,

a of the m gloo m y bu t they are e n l iv e n ed by

,

t h e hust e an d n oise of cro w ds of people The .

sam e ki n d O f shops ar e m ostly foun d together as ,

grocers cap m akers taylors iron m on gers arm o u r

,
~
, , ,

ers silvers m iths &c I n the fr uit shops we foun d

, , .

ab u n d an ce of apricots cherries an d m ulberries, ,

of i n ferior q uality an d di ffere n t ki n ds of salad

, .

The seaso n was yet too early for t h e n e fr ui t of

the clim ate an d d u ri n g our stay at Ti i s we n ever
saw an y u pon the tables of the nob ility E very .

Som e w t e t ri hese Per i s an w o ds r a hassees, &c .

 l
TH E CA R AVA N SE R A I S . 517

ki n d of m erchan dise an d provi sion s i s to be fo un d

here as well the p rodu ction Of the cou n try as of
, ,

Persia an d R u ssia We saw carpets si k s shawls

.
, , ,

an d other articles i n the Shops which are n ot sol d

, ,

cheap i n com pariso n with the pric es i n R u ssia .

I m m en se q u an tities of R u ssian an d Germ an pri n ts ,

han dkerc hi efs besides cotton cloth , &c of R u ss i an

, .

m an ufactu re were every where exposed for s ale

,
.

We had expected to have foun d t he Car avan se

l
r a i s m u ch m ore im posi n g e di ces an d better su p ,

plied with m erchan dise fro m eastern coun tri es than ,

was th e case There are two of th e m at Ti i s the

.
,

on e for t h e T u rks an d t h e othe r for the Persian s

, .

They are squ are b ui ld in gs n ot u n ik e som e pri son s , .

They s urro un d squ ares w ith a dou ble r ow of ,

l
p i azzas on e above the other an d are d iv i de d
, ,

i n to n u m erou s s m all un furn ished apartm en ts i n ,

which these foreign ers pile up their m erchan di se ,

l
an d reside I n the day they s i t cross legged u pon
,
-

the oor s m okin g their pipes or assem bled i n s m al

, ,

parti es for the sam e p u rp ose till a visitor e n ters , .

ll
I n the n ight they m ake their beds u pon wadded
covers an d th u s they pass their tim e ti they have
,

l
n ished their affai rs when they begi n a n ewj ourn ey
, .

Two large ran ge s of n e w Shops or Car avanser ai s , ,

have been lately erected n ear Ye r m oPs p a a ce .

Few of them were occupied an d i n deed they , , ,

were n ot a ni shed i n 1 8 2 2 We were rather sur, .

pri sed at n din g an E n glish m an who had j ust c om ,

m e n c e d b u si n ess i n on e of the m But wher e c an .

L L 3
 l

518 G E NE R A L YE R M OL O F S H O U SE , A R SE N A L &c

l
.
,

we go witho ut m eetin g wi th ou r coun trym e n

Th i s part of the tow n ass u m es an E uropean aspect ,

bu t it sti ll i n cl udes h un dreds of As i atic hove s ,

like terraces i n the s i des of the hil s which be i n g

, ,

extre m ely low at roofed an d m ean they are i n

,
-
, ,

m an y places scarcely vi sible u n til we are close upo n

l
them .

Abou t the m iddle of T i i s a n other i rregular

squ are i s form ed by the c i vi l govern or s hou se the ,

l
police ofc e which was erected i n 1 8 2 0 the P r av
-
,

e n iy or the ad m i n istrat i o n an d other edices , ,

which belon g to the crown .

The part of the town which i s far the best i s , ,

l

n ear Ge n eral Ye r m of s ho u se a str u ctu re whic h , ,

th ough i n ferior to m an y pri vate edices i n Peters

l
b urgh an d Moscow both i n size an d i n style yet i s
, ,

tho ught extraordin ary at T i i s Adjoi n i n g to i t i s .

the Arse n a an d opposite it the Corp s de Guar d

, .

O n on e Side is the p ubl i c garde n wh i c h is of c on ,

.

s i d e r ab e size an d pretty well la i d ou t

, It con tain s .

a grotto tea room s an d Shaded walks an d ave n u es

,
-
.
, ,

ch i ey form e d by Vi n es A pon d with j .

e t s d eau , ,

r un s alon g i t s top an d the views from he n ce are

,

exte n sive an d i n spri n g are sai d to be pleasan t

, , , .

Behin d it the hills r ise rapidly an d are scattered ,

w ith n u m ero u s ch u rches .

The Dep t de Car te s is n ear i t an d I S un der

,

the care of Colon el Kotz eb u e son of Kotzeb u e the ,

fam o u s dra m atic writer an d au thor of Voy ag e

,

e n P e r se w h o acco mpa n ied u s t o see i t I t c on
, . -
 NE W S Q UA R E ANE CD O TE . 519

tai n e d but fe w m aps , an d wh ole

n ot on e of t he

l
R u ssian e m pire Here they are n ow preparin g an
.

im m e n se m ap of Georgia which i s t o exten d t o

,

forty or forty eight Sheets par t of which we saw

-
,
.

It will be a work of s e veral years labo ur .

O pposite to Ge n eral Ye r m of s palace bu t m u ch ,

n earer the river , there i s a square of n e w edices ,

i n on e of wh i ch we lodged Here Ge n eral M odat of,

.

a Georgian prin ce i n the R u ss i an service an d a ,

n u m ber of o fcers have erected ho uses

, Accord .

l
i n g to Kotzeb u e th i s squ are w as form erly a cem e .

t e r y an d n o great cere m o n y see m s to have been

,

O bserved i n re m ov i n g the to m bs O f the dead so ,

dear even to the m ost savage n ation s But des .

poti e power pays i ttle regar d to s uch an cien t pr e

j u dices These are Kotzeb u e s words
.

l
There existed i n the ce n tre of the town an
, ,

an ci e n t ce m etery m u ch revered on accoun t of i t s

,

m o n um en ts of the dead but it occ upied too m u ch

space an d was s u rro un de d by th e m ost lthy an d m ost
disgu sti n g street s Gen eral Ye r m of cau sed th e
.

e n clo sin g w alls to be p u lled down an d the earth t o ,

l
be levelle d after havi n g given the sep ulchral ston e s
,

to the fam ilies to whom they belo nged The .

s u rrou n di n g ho use s were orn am en ted w i th n e

facades .

T i i s i s m u ch i n debted to Ge n eral Yer m of for

hi s i m prove m en ts . He wishes it to beco m e the

Voyage e n Pe rse p , . 48 .

L L 4.
5 20 TH E CA S T L E OF TI F L IS .

gran d en tr ep t betwee n the so u thern an d eastern

l
cou n tries of the world an d R u ssia an d i s extre m ely ,

d esiro u s that it shou ld be m ade a great co m m ercial

town O n these accoun ts t he r an ges of Shops , ,

already n oti ced were b u ilt an d the baz ars r e

, ,

paired The soldiers, aware of Ge n eral Ye r m O of s

l
.

d esire i n passi n g thro ugh the streets an d lan es

, ,

l
each p ulls out a brick or two from the wall s
of the old ho u ses so as to accelerate t heir fall
,
.

This practice de m o n strates st that the dwellin gs , ,

of the Georgian s are n ot very rm ly b u i lt ; an d ,

2 d y that the w i sh is m ost arde n t to replace t he

,

prese n t by m odern b uildin gs .

ll
There is an hospital an d a botan ic garden u pon
, ,

the Koor abo u t two m iles below T i i s but as we

, ,

did n ot visit the m I can n ot give any accoun t O f

their presen t state .

The Castle or Citade was b u i t by the Tu rks

, , ,

i n 1 5 7 6 whe n they beca m e m asters of Ti i s an d of

,

t h e s u rro u n di n g co un try after m an y vi ctorie s

,

gai n ed un der the com m an d of the fam ou s M u stapha

Pacha gen eralissi m o of the troops of Soli m an I t s
, .

l
situ ation is on a high an d i n s ulated hill an d i ts ,

stron g walls and towers m u st have re n dered it a

place of great stre n gt h S ee 1 3 th Vig n ette It is .

n ow i n r u i n s ; the asce n t to wh i c h i s very d i fc ult .

We were stopped whe n half way up by a sen ti n e

, , ,

whose obj ection s to ou r proceedi n g farther were

overco m e by a trie for vodt hi From the castle .

is obtai n ed an excelle n t bird s-eye v i ew of Ti i s
 A V L A B AR I . O L D F O R T R E SS . 521

an d its vi c i ni ty The at roofed hou ses i n som e

.
-
,

places arran ged alon g the decl i vi ty of the rock

, ,

exactly rese m ble the steps of an i m m en se stai r ,

wh i ch m ight serve for som e of the gian ts Of fable .

Thei r roofs were covered with people workin g ,

loiteri n g or a m usi n g the m selves

, .

I II order to m ake a vi sit to the s ub u rb of Avla

l
b ari we cross ed the Koor by a wooden bridge at
, ,

the side of which is the o n ly m osqu e n ow i n the

town It is i n te n ded soon to replace this bridge
.

by on e Of ston e After pass i n g it a r u de represe n t

.
,

l
ati o n of the H o y S up p er c ut ou t of t he sol i d rock
, ,

an d i n an alcove or n am e n ted w ith p i llars attr acted ,

n otice Great reveren ce i s pai d to th i s r u de work

.

m an sh ip the ori gin of which I co u ld n ot learn

, .

l
Asce n di n g the hill we reache d an O d fortr ess
, ,

which stan ds u pon a bold rock ; it was u n dergoi n g

a thorou gh repai r preparatory to i ts beco m i n g the
,

chief prison of Georgia We were told that i t is .

the design of Ge n eral Ye r m of to m ake T i i s a

co m pletely E u ropean t Ow n an d to allow this s ub u rb ,

o n ly to retain its Asiati c character I n the m ean .

tim e i t exh ib its n othi n g but m eann es s an d wretch

e dne ss .

We afterwards m ade a vi sit to the Crown Bath s - .

O n e n teri n g the hall we r e m arked a large r oo m on

the left i n which the Georgi an s were playi ng at
,

billiards We were shown i n to a Si m ila r apartm e n t

.

on the righ t w i th an alcove on on e s i de an d a c ur

, ,

tai n drawn i n fro n t of i t betw ee n t wo col um n s I n

, .
5 22 THE C R O W N-BA T H S

the alcove we foun d so m e chairs an d a bw table

or rather ben ch covered with a i n e n sheet where
,

the n atives u n dress an d deposit thei r c lothe s

ll .

,
,

Havi ng desired the atten dan ts to treat u s i n every ,

r espect as they d i d the Georg i an s

, they to ok off ,

ou r clothes an d, after faste n i n g a l in e n gi rdle

,

u po n eac h of u s. they led u s to the bath room s

,
-
,

l
w h i ch are large an d va ulted I n t h e cen tr e of thei r .

ar c h e d r oofs are
i
apert u res for the adm i ss i on Of
ai r
. The baths are of an oblon g sq uare form an d ,

fi o m 5 t o 5 % feet i n depth They are c ut ou t of.

the rock an d are l ed by m ea n s of p i pes xed

,

ab ove the m an d thro ugh wh i ch the war m sulph u r

,

ated fo un tai n s con tin u ally ow E ach bath i s .

l
provi ded with two large boar ds rai sed abo u t four ,

i n ches fro m the oor so as to acco m m odate t w o

,

perso n s at the sam e tim e I was desired t o de .

s ce n d i n to t he bath by m ean s of a s tair whi c h ,

be i ng d on e I was led ou t an d a i d u pon on e of

, ,

the boards m e n t i on ed w hile m y head r ested u pon

,

a l i ttle w oode n p illow The atten dan t h avin g .

l
lled a b uc ket with water from the bath an d hav ,

In u t on his r ight ha n d a glove w i tho ut n ge r s

gp

an d m ade of goat s ha i r washed an d s cr u bbed ove r
,

the whole body Th i s process lasted ab out a

.

qu arter of an hou r A n um ber of t ubfu s of w arm

.

water w ere the n dashed over m e He n ext took .

a bag wh i ch was lled with s oap su ds an d e m p

,
-
,

tied it on differen t parts of the body wh ile h e c on ,

tin n ed a ge n tle fri cti o n wi t h on e han d ; a s ec on d

 CH A M P O O I N G

operatio n which did n ot term i n ate i n e ss than

,

twen ty m i n utes The abl u tio n s with warm water

.

bei n g agai n repeated he m ade Sign s for m e to

.
-L U

,
X UR Y OF

l
TH E B A TH S . 5 23

l
e n ter the bath an d to re m ain as lo n g as I chose
,
.

As i n Pers i a Tu rkey E gypt an d I n dia the at

, , , ,

l
t e n dan t s e m ploy pressi n g sq u eezi n g an d k n ead , ,

i n g as it were the s u rface of the body ; an operatio n

, ,

well k n ow n u n der the appel ation c hamp ooing .

l
An other part of the operatio n con sists i n crackin g

l
a the j oi n ts an d the n stan di n g on an d eve n
, ,

Walkin g over the body ; but to n e ither of these did

,

I s ub m it O n e of our party had his j oi n ts cracked ;

.

but to the te a /r i ng op e r at i on he also de m u rred , .

S u ch a ux ur i ous ba th I n ever before e nj oyed ;

a n d n ow I c an easily co n ceive h owthe n at ives of

l
this co u n try sho uld re m ain i n i t hou rs n ay whole , ,

days . The Georgian s of ran k says Madam e ,

Fr eygan c h parti c ularly the ladi es devote a whole

, ,

day i n every week to the baths ; an d n ot u n fr e

q u en t y pass a n ight i n th e m Recli n in g i n l u x u .

r i ou s ease u po n the co u ches they dye the i r hair ,

l
l
an d n ails an d the old ladi es have hair as black as

ebon y fro m con stan tly stain i n g it Here also they

, .

l
pai n t thei r faces red an d white ; tortu ri n g the m
selves to m ake the eye brows j oin which i s ah -
,

s o ut e
y esse n tial i n a Georgian beau ty The day .

thu s e m ployed is with them on e of the greatest

i m portan ce altho u gh atte n ded w i th pai n as w el
, ,

as pleas ure After goi n g thro ugh the cere m on i e s

.

of these cave r ns an ho ur s r epose an d a plate of
,
5 24 T E M PE R A T UR E OF TH E S PR I N GS .

fr uit are very acceptable eve n to E u ropean s ; an d , ,

altho ugh the sit u atio n of these baths i s n ot very

i n viti ng I have co n tracted a taste for the m at the

, ,

risk of beI n g looked u pon as a T he

crown baths which as I have said are well ar
-
, , ,

ran ged we r e n ot i n existe n ce w he n the above w as

,

written .

Besides the crown baths there are other Six baths -

,

l
i n the sa m e n eighbo u rhood ; fo u r for m ales an d ,

two for fe m ales O n e of the fe m ale baths was i n

.

the m ost lthy con dition I n n u m erable n aked .

wom e n were b usy w ashi n g clothes i n i t ; wh ile

.

others were reposi n g i n the e m pty bath s an d a ,

lowi n g the water from the fo un tai n s to r u n over

ll
their bodies Bu t for a m ore partic u lar d e scription
.
,

of s u ch sce n es I reco m m e nd the reader to per u s e

,

Sir R K Porter s accou n t of t he Georgian V e
.

nuse s i n the baths of T i i s .

O f a the war m sprin gs at t he baths I fou n d ,

the te m peratu re to vary fro m 1 00 to 1 1 2 Fah ;

.

i n deed the o n y on e wh i c h r eached 1 1 2 w as i n

,

the crown baths O ther wr iters speak of havi n g

- .

fo un d spri n gs both of a lower an d of a con s i derably

,

higher tem perature than I have stated ; an d i t see m s

,

very probable that the tem peratu re m ay vary at

, ,

di e r e n t ti m es from chan ges i n the i n teri or of th e

'

m o un tai n s of wh i ch w e k n ow n othi n g beyo n d

,

conj ecture The author of L etter s fr om the

.

L e tt e r from
s th e C aucasus p , . 119 .
 N A TUR E O F T H E S PR I N GS . 5 25

ll
Ca uc a sus , speaks of baths at 5 0 O f R eq u al to
.
,

1 44 F bu t I thi n k she m u st be m istake n u n less

,

they were warm ed articially .

The di stin guishi ng characters of a the baths at

T i i s is their stron g i m pregn ation with su p h u
retted hydrogen gas an d their possessin g a t e m ,

e r at ur e fro m 1 0 0 F ar e n h e i t

p to 1 1 2

l
The Crow n Baths are Sit u ated i n a plain edice-
,

an d are kept i n good order They yield an an n u al .

reven u e of 5 000 s ilver ro ubles n early equ al to ,

paper ro u ble s of the presen t day or ,

8 8 3 6s 8 d sterli n g : n o s m all su m i n Georgia

. . . .

The i n habitan ts enj oy the crown baths by payi n g -

,

abo u t 6d or u pwards an d the co m m o n baths do

.

n ot cost m ore than 3 d or 4 d . .

Besides the baths t h e chief pleas ure the Georgi ,

an s allow their wives is to take the air on S u n day s , ,

l
an d festivals u pon the tops of their ho u ses where
, ,

they som etim es dan ce to the sou n d O f the t am

l
Th e m ou n t a n s i n th e i ne ighb rhood of Ti i
ou hi h K a s, w c

l l
p r ot hr g rd e a s as be l gi g a
on n u ne br a n che a va n c

e f th hai of
o e c n

l
Pa m p ak pr , se a at e d fr m t h C
o e au c asu s by t h e K or c omo , ar e

p ose d d m e d hi t th ir b

e ar n i, e sc e
s e ca ca r e a e m a r n e ux et de g r es s

l
i s f brow gr y argillac e ou
o n- e c hi t us I the c es s s s . n iti of t h av e

l
m arl o e oft e
, n m e e t w i th n d i b et d on s e c a ca r e r e ux a

p at P
r e. y ri t e s i fou d i t h e h i t
s t b i na d i t i s O ft e
n sc s e a u a r e, n n

c ha g e d i t o t r e al um i ou
n n chi t
u Th e oil arou d Ti i s
n s s s us . s n

l
i s argillac e o s an d pre se t s i m y plac e a m i x t re of c a
u ,
n , n an s, u

c a e ou
r a d w hi c h
s s n o t i
,
m u ch g t d Ko
c n a ns I the a e a ur . n

v all e y whi h i w at e re d by t h e Tsak i si

, c s o e s e e s h or st o e v s , n n n

c o e r e d w i t h a gr e e
v e arth har d a d S im il r t o j a p e r
n Vide
, n a s .

Voy ge au M o t C uc s &c p a Klaproth vo ii p 9

a n a a e, . r , . . . .
5 2 6 S I N G UL A R D I VE R SI O N .
C O R R UPT I O N O F M O R A L S .

bari n e But Kotzeb u e in form s us that they w ere

. ,

also perm itted to be spectators of a very Sin gular

species of d iversio n at T i i s At certai n sole m n .

festi v als the whole pop u lati o n le ft th is town an d

, ,

divided the m selves in to two ban ds of warriors who ,

m ade a k i n d of m ock ght Both Sides de m o n str ated .

an i n credible obsti n acy u n t i l on e of the partie s

,

was obliged to aban don i ts positio n They threw

volleys of ston es then beat each other wi th sti c k s
.

l
, ,

or w i th woode n sabres The little childre n e ve n

.
, ,

were e m ployed i n throwi n g sto n es by the op

posin g parties Man y person s were br u i sed an d
.

an d la m ed an d so m e eve n lost their l i ves

,
It was .

m ade a poi n t of ho n o u r n ot to co m plai n of acci

l
de n ts ; an d eve n m others w ere w i tn esses of their

son s m isfortun es w i th the resign atio n of Spartan
wo m e n This k i n d of gen eral battle was called
.

T amasc ha an d pri n ces took a Share i n i t ; bu t i ts

,

con ti nu ati on was prohib i ted by Ge n eral Ye r m of .

The R u ssian soldiers have bee n m u c h blam ed

for corr upti n g the m orals of the Georgian fe m ales ,

espec i ally those of the lower ran ks They see m .

l
also to have m ade them at ti m es t he sport of their
, ,

am use m en t Whe n a fe m ale says Kotzeb u e
.
, ,

m eets on e or m ore R u ssian s i n the streets an d ,

the passage i s too n arro w to adm i t her chan ging her

d irection she t u r n s her face toward the wall u nti
, ,

these form i dable m e n have passe d. The yo un g

Of cers som eti m es a m u se the m selves i n m ocki n g
th i s c u sto m di ctate d by Sham e : they arran ge the m
ll
lll
ll
selves before the wall an d cover their faces with a

a ssaut d e m odest i e,
,

white han dkerch i ef e t I n t avec a p a uvr e j

,

jq
emi n e

us u

,

a cc u
q e d

un c bt e

ou
,

de

l

a ut r e on se a sse, s oi t de a r ig e ur de a c out ume ,

s oi t d e p a i s a n t er i e , e t i t p ar se s ouha i t er , de
on n A

a r t e t d a ut r e , un bon voy ag e
p .

A m on g t he O bj ects of c uriosity at T i i s the ,

co m m an da n t on e day ordered an A bi n os to be
bro ught to our qu arters H e was a boy abou t thir .

tee n years of age the son of a Mi ngrelian who i s

, ,

a Colo n el i n the R u ssian service H e had yellowish .

white hair His featu res were pleasan t an d his c om

.
,

l
l
plexion was fair I re m arked a wh ite li n e rou n d the
.

p upils of his eyes which were very s m all an d alto

, ,

gether i n se n sible to differen t degrees of light The .

whol ei ris was of a p u rplish colo u r an d this was p e ,

c u i ar re m arkable a fter ca u si n g the bo to sh u t his

y y
eyelids with his face to the wall an d tu rn in g hi m
, ,

s u dde n ly ro un d to the light He e nj oyed good .

health an d was in tellige n t

, .

Voy ag e en Pe rse p M ri car au e de K ot zebue p , . 45 .

E ND O F TH E F I R ST VO L U M E .