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CLEANSING

handbook 20142014
handbook - 2015
CLEANSING
TYPES
WATERY
OIL
Dissolved in a water base and are used
together with a cotton pad to remove
surface dirt. Suitable for skin which is
Like dissolves like concept allows easily irritated with frequent washing.
oil cleansers to remove make-up or (pg 18-23)
water-resistant sunscreen most
effectively. Emulsifiers dissolved in oil
allow easy rinsing with water. Ideal for
heavy make-up users.
(pg 3-17)

MILK/BALM
The higher content of oils in milky
formulations are suited for extremely dry

FOAM skin. To be massaged gently with fingers,


it dissolves make-up and dirt and can be
removed by water or by tissue.
Speedy & efficient cleansing is the main (pg 32-35)
benefit of rinse-off foam cleansers.
Newer formulations use surfactants that
are less stripping, mildly acidic to leave
skin feeling refreshed after rinsing.
(pg 24-31)

2
CONCEPT 1

OIL CLEANSING

Formulating cleansing esters


is achieving a good balance of
cleansing oils held by lipophilic
surfactants. Recent innovations
in this category (also called
bicontinuous formulations)
allow the addition of water &
humectants to make it easily
rinsable and leaves a non-sticky,
softened skin feel.

3
ESTERS FOR CLEANSING OILS
Our special esters for formulating mild
and effective cleansing esters with nice feel.

DS-1220
0.1397 Nikkol
Trifat S-308
0.1264

A higher absorbency
value means there is more
of the make-up eluting
into the solution, which Nikkol
means a higher cleansing Absorbency
CIO
effect. (Evaluated at a
Index 0.1178
wavelength of 580nm)

Test Method:
A commercially-available lipstick was applied
evenly to a cotton pad (1.5 x 3cm) and
Mineral allowed to sit for 20 minutes. The pad was
Oil placed in a bottle containing the sample
0.1080 cleansing esters. Using a shaker, the bottle
was shaken for 20 minutes at 30C.

4
DS-1220
INCI Name: Dibutyloctyl Sebacate
This ester shows superior make up
removing properties. It easily
dissolves and disperses poorly soluble
substances. DS-1220 provides elegant Cleansing effect on lipstick.
non-greasy feel after cleansing. Left: Cleansing cream with DS-1220
Clear & odorless. Right: Control

CIO Trifat S-308


INCI Name: Cetyl Ethylhexanoate INCI Name: Triethylhexanoin
Colorless ester with remarkably light feel. Clear and odorless emollient and texture
Superior stability, low irritation and enhancing triglyceride ester oil. Excellent
emollient effect. cleansing and pigment dispersing effect.

GS-MHL
INCI Name: Methyheptyl Laurate
Ultra-light plant-derived cleansing ester manufactured with minimum waste (e-factor of
0.02)*. Ideal for formulators searching for D5 replacement for cleansing.

Powder Cream Water-proof


Foundation Foundation Mascara

Before Cleansing

Cleansing with GS-


MHL

The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.

5
H one y C leansing O I L
The cleansing ritual should be both a purifying and
sensorial experience. While massaging on the face, the user can
experience the transformation of this soft gel to cushiony oils that
dissolve deep-seated dirt or sebum. Can be removed by just water
to leave skin soft and moisturized.

(Lot.12- GCH-23)
INCI NAME TRADE NAME ROLE WT %
Phase A
Triethylhexanoin Nikkol Trifat S-308 Cleansing Ester 51.62
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate Nikkol CIO Cleansing Ester 5
Squalane Nikkol Sugar Squalane Oil Material 5
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil Nikkol Rosehip Oil Oil Material 1
Polymeric
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Carbol Ultrez 20 0.1
Stabilizer
Phase B
Hydrophilic
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate Nikkol TGI-20 10
Surfactant
Glycerin Humectant 17.5
Triethanolamine Neutralizer 0.1
Phase C
Preservative q.s.
Butylene Glycol Humectant 2.5
Electrostatic
Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate Nikkol SMT 0.05
Stabilizer
Water 5
Phase D
Moisturizing
Royal Jelly Extract, BG, Water Royal Jelly Extract- J 1
Active
Thymus Serpillum Extract,
Moisturizing
Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Plant Extract Complex BG 1
Active
Origanum Marjorana Leaf Extract, BG, Water
Phase E
Fragrance q.s.

Procedure:
1. Heat Phase C until completely dissolved then add phase B.
2. Mix well together.
3. Add Phase A (oil material) into B+C dropwise at RT under paddle mixing.
4. After addition of Phase A, heat the whole mixture until 50C (for the polymer to gel up properly)
and stir for 5 minutes. Cool down to RT.
5. Slowly add Phase D and E and stir again until a homogenous gel is formed.

6
Marketing Claims
New type of oil cleansing with honey-like texture
Melts into cushiony oils for stress-free cleansing
Emulsifies quickly with water for fresh feeling
Infused with Royal Jelly extract & moisturizing botanicals

D-phase technique allows


drop-wise addition of oil to form
a stable high internal phase.

Cleansing Test Results


Before Removal Benchmark Lot.12-GCH23

Foundation
(Maquillage True Liquid)

Lipstick
(Estee Lauder Electric Lipstick)

Mascara
(Majolica Majorca Lash Expander)

This formulation is highly recommended for light to medium make-up users or for people
with dry skin or sensitive skin.

Cleansing Evaluation

1 Put a fixed amount of 2 Put a certain amount


make-up product onto the of cleansing material
layer of tape affixed to the on the treated area and
Transpore
slide glass and leave it for rub fixed number of
tape (3M)
more than 6 hours for drying. times.

3 Dab excess cleansing material 4 Evaluate visually.


with cotton pad. (dont scrub)

7
Emulsifiers for Cleansing OIL
Self-emulsifying surfactant to allow base oils
to interact with water for easy rinsability.

GO-430 NV
INCI Name: Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

Appearance
INCI Name Light Yellow Liquid
Sorbeth-30
Tetraoleate

HLB
11.5
GO-430 NV

Special Features / Main Uses:


Hydrophilic emulsifier for a wide range
of substances; suitable for non-polar base
oils such as mineral oil, plant derived.
CAS NO.
63089-86-1

The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.

8
Formulation 1: Self-emulsifying Cleansing Ester (Lot. 06-DC-1)
This is a traditional anhydrous (water-free) cleansing oil formulation with GO-430NV as
the main emulsifier. The base oil (mineral oil) can be replaced with light-feel sustainable
Sugar Squalane (see below) or any vegetable oil for a more natural formulation.

INCI NAME TRADE NAME WT %

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate Nikkol GO-430NV 11


Sorbitan Sesquioleate Nikkol SO-15V 4

Triethylhexanoin Nikkol Trifat S-308 20


Dibutyloctyl Sebacate DS-1220 20

Mineral Oil - 45

Procedure: Mix well at room temperature

Green Formulations with Sugar Squalane

Squalane is a choice emollient for its high skin absorption & softening effect on skin.
Sugar Squalane is made from sugarcane grown through traceable and sustainable
techniques in Brazil. Compared to olive squalane, this does not compete with food
consumption thus making supply & pricing stable.

Spreadabilty

Moist feel Skin absorption

Tackiness Oily after feel

Sensory evaluation of Different Types of Squalane

Shark-derived Squalane Olive-derived Squalane NIKKOL Sugar Squalane

9
Emulsifiers for Cleansing OIL
Plant-derived self-emulsifying non-ionic surfactant
with superior cleansing properties.

TGI-20
INCI Name: PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate

Formulation 2: Self-emulsifying Cleansing Ester (Lot. 06-TGI-01)

INCI NAME TRADE NAME WT %

PEG-20 Glyceryl Trisostearate Nikkol TGI-20 15

Ethylhexyl Palmitate Nikkol IOP 10

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate Nikkol CIO 10

Mineral Oil - 64.6

Phenoxyethanol - 0.4

Procedure: mix till uniform with paddle mixer

Cleansing Effect on Water-proof

1 2 3

Tested samples
Mascara

1. Water (control)
2. Commercial Cleansing Ester (Japan)
3. Cleansing Ester with TGI-20

Cleansing Power

Method:
Lipstick (commercial water-proof lipstick)
and mascara (commercial, water-proof) were
Lipstick

applied to test sites on the inner forearm.


Each test site is massaged 10 times and then
rinsed. Cleansing effect is measured by visual
observation.

The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.

10
I nnovative C leansing O il
What are bicontinuous cleansing formulations?

Before Removal Conventional Bicontinuous


of Waterproof Cleansing Oil Cleansing Oil
Mascara
Dry Hands
Wet

Japan is known for its rich tradition of bathing.


This tradition extends to nightly bathing rituals in the
household. Skincare manufacturers such as Kao or
Shiseido employ their knowledge on colloid science
to provide cleansing oils that can be
used in the bath allows women to save
time. Moreover, Japanese cleansing
oils have evolved to be feeling less
like oil but more like water.

11
C onventional T y p e
I.
The challenges of a conventional formulation

Oil

Conventional Type

Small / Large
amount of water Water

Cleansing Oil O/W emulsion

Hydrophilic SAA Hydrophobic SAA


SAA = surface active agent

Conventional Type: These type of cleansers emulsify immediately with the presence of
water even in small amounts. This leads to reduced cleansing power & low rinsability of
the formulation.

1 Loss of 2 Low Rinsability


Cleansing Ester + Surfactant
Power

Make-up/dirt

Removal
Skin Surface Skin Surface

1. With wet hands or when in the 2. Water will also increase the particle
shower, emulsification happens upon size of these oil droplets, leaving a
contact with water. Water obstructs sticky feeling on skin.
the oil droplets to remove make-up.

12
B icontin u o u s T y p e
II.
The merits of a bicontinuous formulation

Oil Oil

Water

Water

Cleansing Oil Bicontinuous Phase O/W emulsion

Hydrophilic SAA Hydrophobic SAA

Bicontinuous formulation is when an amphiphilic blend of surfactants allows to balance


equal volumes of oil & water and exist freely in the continuous phase.

1 No Loss in 2 Superior
Cleansing Bicontinuous Rinsabiity
Power Blend

Make-up/dirt

Dissolution
Skin Surface Skin Surface

1. The bicontinuous channels of water 2. With addition of more water, size


and oil allow interaction without of oil droplets are reduced and
immediate emulsification. stabilized into micelles, preventing
re-adhesion and allows easy rinsing.

13
B icontin u o u s
Watery oil cleansing formulations

Nikkomix CW
(Lot 15-SBL-12) WT %
20
INCI Name PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate,
Sorbitan Oleate,
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

This economical bicontinuous Cetyl


blend has superior cleansing power Ethylhexanoate
much better than ordinary soap. Cleansing Esters

For dry &


wet hand Nikkomix CW WT %
Cleasing Base
use 33
Mix all until uniform.

Water
Solvent Butylene Glycol
Humectant

WT %
27
WT %
20

14
Bicontinuous formulas allow make-up removal without double washing with soap for
lesser disruption of skin barrier.

Foundation Lipstick Mascara


Before Cleansing Before Cleansing Before Cleansing

Soap Soap Soap

Nikkol Nikkomix CW Nikkol Nikkomix CW Nikkol Nikkomix CW

Simple Modification of Formulation using Nikkomix CW (Lot 15-SBL-12)


Nikkomix CW is a ready-to-use blend where you just add selected polyols & cleansing
esters then dilute with water! Elaborate modification is not necessary.

TRADE NAME WT %
Nikkomix CW 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33
Butylene Glycol 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate 20 10 10 10 10
Decyl Oleate 20
Hydrogenated Polydecene 20
Mineral Oil 20
Avocado Seed Oil 20
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 10
Ethylhexyl Palmitate 10
Triethylhexanoin 10
Dodecane 10
Water 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6 26.6
Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4
Total 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

Stability Results Clear Solution Can be dispersed well Insoluble

RT, after 1 month

42 or 50C, after 1 month


50C, after 1 month

15
B icontin u o u s P R E M I X
Convenient cleansing for both
dry & wet hand use

Cleomix DX
INCI Name PEG-10 Laurate, Sorbitan
Oleate, Decyl Glucoside, Alcohol, Water
Regular oil emulsifies.
This is a blend of plant-derived, low irritation
ingredients suited for formulations aiming for
sensitive skin. This blend creates a
bicontinuous structures with a wide variety of
oils of different polarities. This can be thicken
into milks or balms that can be washed easily Cleomix DX oil forms visible
bicontinuous phase
into a micro-emulsion. (oil and water repel each other).

Cleansing Effect of Cleomix DX vs. Presence of bicontinuous channel:


Commercial Cleansing Esters The behavior of cleansing oil,
Cleomix DX vs. regular cleansing oil
Sugar Squalane-rich bicontinuous cleansing (not wet hand type) upon contact
ester cleanses skin effectively while also leaving with water was compared. One drop
it softened & moisturised. of each oil was dropped into beakers
filled with water.

Market Market Cleomix


Cleomix Bicontinuous Cleansing Ester
Before
Product A Product B Oil A
TRADE NAME WT %
Nikkol CLEOMIX DX 25
Mascara

Nikkol CIO (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate) 5


Nikkol IOP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate) 35
Nikkol Natural Oils 1 3
Foundation

Cyclomethicone 15
Nikkol Sugar Squalane To 100
Fragrance q.s.
Preservative q.s.
Lipstick

Water 2.5
1. Mix A well. Add B while stirring A.
2. Stop stirring when mixture becomes transparent.

The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.

16
P E G - F ree C leansing
PEG-Free bicontinuous cleansing oil for
sensitive skin

The demand for plant-derived, PEG-free emulsifiers have greatly increased and polyglycerol
esters are excellent choices for superior cleansing & unique properties such as having a
bicontinuous channel.

PEG-Free Bicontinuous Cleansing Ester (Lot.06-HMC-63)

INCI NAME TRADE NAME WT %

Ethylhexyl Palmitate Nikkol IOP To 100


Cyclomethicone 1
10
Polyglyceryl-6 Myristate Hexaglyn 1-M 12
Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate Decaglyn 5-1SV 4
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate Decaglyn 1-L 2
Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate Hexaglyn 1-OV 2
Lauric Acid 0.5
Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate2 2
Water 4
Alcohol 1

Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Mix well at room temperature

Before PEG-Free PEG Type

Lipstick

Foundation

Mascara
(Waterproof)

Can use with wet hands

This PEG-free formulation removes


make-up as good as traditional types
17
CONCEPT 2

Watery
CLEANSING

This concept is also called


micellar water where micelles
(oil droplets) are suspended in
an aqueous solution.
When in contact with these
invisible oils, make-up or
surface dirt are dissolved
with a swipe of a cotton pad.
These products are aimed for
consumers who require one-
step cleansing (cleanse & tone)
or for those with a light, daily
make-up style.

18
O I L - F R E E C leansing W ater
One-step make-up removal with
functional care

SG-CG700
INCI Name PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
SG-CG700 is a non-ionic hydrophilic surfactant
that can be dissolved in watery surfactant
solutions to formulate cleansing waters. It is
also good in solubilizing oil materials such as
essential oils for high transparency.

(Lot.20-TWC-13-101209)

INCI NAME TRADE NAME ROLE WT %

Phase A

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate Nikkol SG-CG700 Cleansing Agent 5.0

PEG-20 Glyceryl
Nikkol TGI-20 Cleansing Agent 5.0
Triisostearate

PEG-45 Stearate Nikkol MYS-45V Solubilizer/ Builder 5.0

PEG-30 Phytosterol Nikkol BPS-30 Solubilizer/ Emollient 5.0

Ethylhexyl Glycerin &


Nikkoguard 88 Paraben Alternative 1.0
Glyceryl Caprylate

Dipropylene Glycol Humectant 30.0

Phase B

Water Base 43.88

Phase C

Citric Acid pH Adjuster 0.01

Sodium Citrate pH Adjuster 0.06

Disodium EDTA Chelating Agent 0.05

Water Base 5.00

Procedure:
1. Heat A to dissolve materials (BPS-30 flakes) and add B
2. Add C to A+B

19
W ater y C leansing L otion
Watery texture with superior cleansing power
Improve skin dullness & minimize enlarged pores

Key Materials
Market SG-CG700
Before Cleansing
Product
Cleansing Pore Care Lotion

SG-CG700
Foundation
MYL-10 LPA

Lesinol
Mascara
SH-50

Lipstick
Anti-inflammation

(Lot. 27-MBF-22)
INCI NAME TRADE NAME WT %
Phase A
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate Nikkol SG-CG700 4.0
PEG-10 Laurate Nikkol MYL-10 4.0
PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Nikkol SG-KH5000 2.0
Lecithin, Lysolecithin LPA 0.1
Hydroxylated Lecithin, Glycerin Nikkol Lesinol SH-50 0.5
Preservative q.s.
Phase B
Water To 100.0
PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate CAE 0.1
Phase C
Citric Acid 0.005
Sodium Citrate 0.03
Disodium EDTA 0.03
Water 5.00
Procedure:
1. Heat A to 80C to dissolve. 4. Add B to A, mix till uniform.
2. Heat B till dissolved. 5. Add C and mix till uniform.
3. Dissolve C at RT.

20
POINT CLEANSING
99% Natural point cleanser with
triple cleansing action

Glycerin-rich formula reacts with moisture to warm up the skin & soften it for serious cleansing.
Natural solubilizer, Decaglyn 1-L, helps dissolve excess sebum like a powerful oil cleanser.
Mannan beads provide its unique soft scrubbing to clear away dead skin cells without irritating or hurting
skin. Sugarcane-derived Squalane leaves your skin soft and moisturised after rinsing.

Warming Scrub Gel (Lot.30-KAC-09)


INCI NAME TRADE NAME WT %
Phase A
Glycerin (Plant-Derived) 84.7
Carbomer 0.3
Butylene Glycol Haisugarcane BG 10
Perservative q.s.
Phase B
Triethanolamine 0.3
Phase C
Polyglyceryl-10-Laurate Nikkol Decaglyn 1-L 3
Squalane Nikkol Sugar Squalane 1
Eucalptus Oil 0.1
Phase D
Mannan Propol ISLB-Large 1
Total 100
Procedure:
1. Heat A and C (except Carbomer) to 80C and mix well
2. Add Carbopol 980 while stirring with dispersion mixer, and cool it down.
3. Add B-D at room temperature and mix well. pH (10%: 7.15)

Commercial Warming
Benchmark Scrub Gel

Cleansing effect determined


Cleansing effect was using artificial sebum (0.02g).
superior compared to
Products (0.2g) were rubbed 20
benchmark*
times without rinsing.

*Benchmark used PEG-type solubilizer

21
G el to W ater C once p t
Cleanse & tone in one-step with
gel-to-water concept

Nikkomulese SE-W
INCI Name PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisosterarate, Water, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan
Sesquiisostearate, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer,
PPG-8-Ceteth-20, Phenoxyethanol

When light pressure is applied on quick break emulsions, the inner


aqueous phase & oils are released to create a visible transformation
from gel-to-water. It is ideal for cleansing concepts that highlight
Quick-break refreshing or moisturising claims.

Nikkomulese SE-W allows creation of quick-break gels with low-


energy paddle mixing.
Low-energy

Quick-break Effect for Cleansing

Immediately after Rubbed slightly 2 Rubbed 4 times


application times

22
Lipstick

Mascara

Before Nikkomulese SE-W Commercial


Cleasing Ester

Quick-break Cleansing Gel (Lot.32-SEC-6)

INCI NAME TRADE NAME ROLE WT %

Phase A

See INCI Name Nikkol Nikkomulese SE-W Quick-Break Emulsifier 4.5

Butylene Glycol Humectant 5

Preservatives q.s.

Phase B

Water 49.5

Potassium Hydroxide
Neutralizer 0.5
(10% aq)

Phase C

Isododecane Cleansing Ester 20

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate Nikkol CIO Cleansing Ester 10

Cyclopentasiloxane KF-995 Cleansing Ester 10

Tocopherol Antioxidant 0.1

COLD PROCESS FORMULA


- Add A into B and slowly agitate with paddle mixer
- Add C gradually and mix until even

23
CONCEPT 3

FOAM CLEANSING

Cleansing foams promise rapid


removal of oil & dirt, leaving skin
refreshed with the use of water.
Traditionally, it is not suitable
for sensitive or dry skin, recent
innovations however offer
less-stripping formulations or dense &
rich foam that can combine cleansing
& massage in one-step.

24
C leansing F oam
Ultra-mild surfactant for
cleansing foams

CMT-30
INCI Name Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Water
This extremely mild surfactant helps to cleanse skin without removing the skin lipids,
which are an essential part of skin barrier. It has good foaming ability and is stable in low
pH conditions.

Cholesterol Elution from Skin:

(dmol/cm2)

3.0

2.3

1.5

0.8

0.0
CMT-30 strips less lipids compared to other surfactants

CMT-30 Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate Sodium POE Dodecyl Sulfate


Sodium Dodecyl Phosphate Sodium N-Lauroyl Glutamate Sodium Laurate

25
Comparison of composition of Nikkol CMT-30 and commercially available aqueous
solutions of Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate.

PRODUCT A PRODUCT B CMT-30

Assay (%) 28.7 28.5 30.1

Sodium Chloride (%) 6.3 6.2 0.6

Free Fatty Acids (%) 4.6 - 0

CMT-30 makes it possible to make low viscosity (fluid) and clear (transparent) shampoo
or cleansing formulations, while competing products tend to make formula viscous and
opaque. Due to well-balanced alkyl distribution of CMT-30, it will foam better at wider
range of temperatures.

Other grades tends to have up to 10 times more salt (NaCl) than CMT-30. In the finished
formula it would mean that CMT-30 will provide :
a) richer & denser foam
b) will not thicken up
c) will be more transparent.

Phosten HLP-1
INCI Name Laureth-1 Phosphate
This mild surfactant is part of the class of mono-alkyl phosphates that have a low stinging
effect, less stripping and imparts a refreshed yet moistened skin feel after rinsing.
Commonly used for mildly-acidic formulations that matches natural skin pH.

26
Theory for Skin Tightness after Washing

2
Removal of
Water Soluble Materials
Removal of Skin
Surface Lipids

Skin Surface Lipid Surfactant


Adsorption

Stratum Corneum Water Permeation

Before Washing Washing

3 4

Water Evaporation Skin Tightness

After Washing

G. Imokawa et. al., Surfactants in Cosmetics 2nd edition. 439-441.(1997).

After the lipids are removed during the washing process and then thoroughly rinsed with water, the small amount
of surfactant that remains on the skin (due to the loss of lipids) induces tension in the stratum corneum layer,
resulting in the sensation of tightness.

SURFACTANT RATIO OF ADSORPTIVE SKIN


LIPIDS LOSS1 CAPABILITY2 TIGHTNESS3

Water 1.06 0 n/a


Mono-alkyl Phosphate (Phostens) 1.17 0 -0.3
Soap 1.52 12.3 -0.1
Triethanolamine n-acyl L-glutamate 1.35 22.1 -0.1

Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate 1.68 62.3 +0.2


Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate 1.48 82.5 +0.4

Phostens exhibited the lowest ratio of lipid loss, less adsorbed into the skin (lower irritation) & does not cause
skin tightness. Phostens give a very distinctive moist feel after washing without the sting or tightness.

27
O il C leansing F oam
The power of oil cleansing combined with
the refreshing experience of a foaming wash

Very fine foam captures make-up residues deep in pores and removes them efficiently.

Oil helps moisturise skin but the formulation leaves a non-oily, refreshed skin feeling.

The external surface of a foam is lipophilic (oil-loving) making it compatible in


removing oily materials such as sebum or make-up

Oil Foam Cleanser (Pump Type) (Lot. 20-NC01)


INCI NAME TRADE NAME WT %
Phase A
PEG-20 Glyceryl
Nikkol TGI-20 6
Triisostearate
Nikkol
Hydrogenated Didecene 5
Syncelane 2
Glyceryl Caprylate 2.5
Possible Oil Substitutes
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl a) mineral oil
Nikkol CMT-30 5
Taurate b) hydrogenated polyisobutane
Nikkol Phosten c) mineral oil +
Laureth-1 Phosphate 7.5
HLP-1
cyclopentasiloxane (1:1)
Phase B d) hydrogenated polyisobutane +
Dipropylene Glycol 5 cyclopentasiloxane (1:1)

Arginine 3.6
Not Compatible
Citric acid 0.01
a) cyclopentasiloxane
Sodium Citrate 0.02
b) squalane
Water 30
Phase C
Water 35.37
TOTAL 100

Procedure:
1. Heat A and B at 80 to 85C.
2. Add B to A while mixing A, and cool it down to the room temperature.
3. Add C at room temperature.

28
M assaging F oam
New rituals: Incorporating facial massage in
your morning face wash

Experiencing dull skin during your sick days or winter season? A light massage with a rich
| LPG-powered foam activates skin by improving blood circulation & calming your moods
for a positive start.

Pump out foam Apply on face Massage for 1 min Pat on skin (pack) Rinse-off

Massaging Foam (LPG type) (Lot.29-FSP-10)


INCI NAME TRADE NAME WT %
Phase A
Nikkol Phosten Treatment + Cleansing
Laureth 1-Phosphate 7.5
HLP-1 Concept:
Potassium Hydroxide (85% Purity) 1.5 Add 1% Shiso Extract
Dipropylene Glycol 4 NA (Japanese mint) for

Preservatives q.s. microcirculation & proven

Water 24.1 skin calming effect


and 1% Citrus Extract
Phase B
Complex,
Water, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Nikkol CMT-30 5
a blend of 3 citrus
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate Nikkol TGI-20 4
extracts (Japanese
Pentylene Glycol 2
yuzu, mandarin & bitter
Phase C
orange) for skin turnover
Glycerin 1 to awaken & renew dull-
Water, Sodium Pentetate Clewat DP80 0.1 looking skin
Citric Acid 0.25
Water To 100
TOTAL 100
Follow the procedure as provided:
1. Heat A to 80C. Stir to cool down at 50C then add B.
2. Add C at 45C then gently mix till uniform. Cool down to 35C
3. Add 5% wt. of LPG in the final formulation.

29
E nhancing S T A B I L I T Y
Enhance the foam richness, moist after-feel
and improve overall gloss & formulation stability!

Nikkofoam S
INCI Name Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Stearic acid, Glycol Distearate,
Tocopheryl Acetate

Moist Foaming Wash (Moist) (Lot.15-FAF-14)

INCI NAME TRADE NAME WT %


Phase A
See INCI Name Nikkol Nikkofoam S 2
Lauric Acid 3
Myristic Acid 12
Palmitic Acid 5
Stearic Acid 10
Glycerin 23
Glyceryl Stearate SE Nikkol MGS-F50SEV 3
Phase B
Potassium Hydroxide 6.45
Water 15

Phase C
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Water Nikkol CMT-30 10
Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate Nikkol SMT 1
1,3-BG 1
EDTA-3Na 0.05
Phenoxyethanol 0.5
Water 8

Procedure:
1. Heat A, B, C to 80C.
2. While mixing A at 80C., add B gradually and mix until saponify.
3. Add C and cool down till 35C.

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Stability Improvement Property

Cream washes are actually fluid crystalline structures that influence the softness,
wetting, and foaming properties. But these crystalline structures usually breakdown
at high temperature (storage in tropical countries) causing creaming or separation
at the bottom.

Japanese market products at varying high temperatures

40C 45C 50C

Separation in all 3

0% 2% 4%

Amount of Nikkofoam S (50C)

Addition of Nikkofoam S (1-5%) improves high temperature stability by strengthening


this crystalline structure without disrupting softness & foaming properties.
Moreover, Nikkofoam S adds a nice gloss & lessens the tight feeling of a typical alkali
cream wash.

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CONCEPT 4

MILKYCLEANSING

While other cleansing types


focuses on stripping less of
lipids, cream or milk type
of cleansing emphasizes on
replenishing lipids due to a
higher oil content and softening
effect on skin. This type can be
used either with a cotton pad or
rinsed with warm water.
Ideal for dry season or for
people with very dry skin.

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R insable C leansing M ilk
Luxury & comfort of milk

Key merit is the skin softening effect (40% oil + polyol) while removing make-up
effectively. With water, milk transforms to micro-sized particles that can be easily
rinsed off.

INCI NAME TRADE NAME ROLE WT %


Phase A
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate Nikkol SG-CG700 Makeup Remover 10
Light-feel Emollient/
Methylhepty Laurate Nikkol GS-MHL 5
Remover
Cyclopentasiloxane Volatile Silicone 5
Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl
Volatile Silicone 5
Trimethicone
Mineral Oil Emollient 3
Glyceryl Tribehenate/
Nomcoat SG Oil Gellant 0.8
Isostearate/ Eicosandioate
Cetearyl Alcohol Emollient 0.5
Sorbitan Isostearate Nikkol SI-10RV Emulsifier 1
Sorbeth 30-Tetraoleate Nikkol GO-43NV Emulsifier 1
Polysorbate 60 Nikkol TS-10V Emulsifier 1
Phase B
Glycerin Humectant 10
Butylene Glycol Humectant 3
Carbomer Carbopol 981 (2% aq) Rheology Modifier 10.0
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
Pemulen TR-1 (2% aq) Rheology Modifier 5.0
Acrylate Crosspolymer
EDTA-2Na Chelating Agent 0.05
Preservative 0.2
Water Diluent 34.42
Phase C
Potassium Hydroxide Neutralizer 0.07
Water Diluent 4.96

Procedure:
1. Heat B to A at 80C until dissolved. 3. Add C slowly and cool down until 35C
2. Heat B to A at 80C until emulsified.

Treatment + Cleansing Concept :


Add in the water phase 1% solution of Hyalo-oligo (Kewpie), a low-molecular weight hyaluronic acid that
hydrates skin as long as 3 days with a single application. Tested to stay long within the stratum corneum
making it effective even after washing (compared to conventional HA).

Add in the oil phase 1% of Phytofix, a blend of plant extracts that replenishes skin lipids and strengthens skin
barrier with every cleansing .

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P E G - F ree C leansing C ream
Rich cleansing cream that releases oils
when massaged on skin

3 Key oil materials: Superior cleansing effect is brought by Trifat S-308 while ODM-
100 brings luxurious spread & body. Behenyl Alcohol 80 gives a velvety elegance
to the total formulation.

Treatment item: Hyalo-oligo is proven to be retained on skin even after washing.


Boosts water levels in upper layers of the skin & imparts a moist & firming feel.

Cleansing Cream (Lot.20-NC07)

INCI NAME TRADE NAME WT %


Phase A
Triethylhexanoin Nikkol Trifat S-308 30
Octyldodecyl Myristate Nikkol ODM-100 25
Behenyl Alcohol Nikkol Behenyl Alcohol 80 2
Glyceryl Stearate Nikkol MGS-BV2 1
Dimethicone KF 96A-350cs (Shinetsu) 0.5
Phase B
Butylene Glycol 10
Carbomer 0.2
Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate Nikkol SMT 0.3
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate Nikkol Decaglyn 1-L 0.5
Sucrose Stearate 0.5
Phenoxyethanol 0.4
Water 22.53
Phase C
Potasiumm Hydroxide 0.07
Water 3
Phase D
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid Hyalo-Oligo 1
Water 3
Total 100
Procedure:
1. Heat A and B respectively to 80-85C and mix well 3. After homogenization add C and stir while cooling
2. Add A into B gradually and homogenize at 5000 rpm 4. At 45C add D and keep stirring till 35C
for 3 minutes (in case of 200 g scale) pH (10%): 6.72

The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.

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M elting C leansing B alm
For richer cleansing experience

This formulation gives a unique cleansing experience by starting as a waxy balm


then releases the cleansing ester when applied on skin. Dissolves surface make-up
effortlessly while leaving skin soft & supple.

Technology of this concept

The combination of a non-polar wax (performalene) with polar oils creates house-of-
card structure where oils are released once shear is applied.

Polar oils are INCI NAME TRADE NAME WT %


trapped in this
crystalline structure Triethlhexanoin Nikkol Trifat S-308 To 100
Polyethylene Performalene PL 5
Sorbeth-30
Nikkol GO-430NV 4
Tetraoleate
Sorbitan Oleate Nikkol SO-10V 1
Tocopherol 0.2
Propylparaben q.s.
To use: Pick appropriate amount and
gently massage on skin until make-up is Fragrance q.s.
dissolved. Rinse with warm water or wipe
with warm muslin cloth for a thorough Procedure:
spa-like cleanse.
1. Heat to 90C and mix well

Treatment + Cleansing Concept :

Add 1-2% Meadowfoam Seed Oil, a waxy oil suited for balm
formulations. Rich in long-chain fatty acids- this oil is perfect for
anti-aging cleansing concepts.
1-2% Macadamia Nut Oil to replenish aged skin with palmitoleic acid,
a fatty acid we lose eventually as we age.

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