TRASCRIZIONE FRANCESCA RULLI CONFERENZA ATENE

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT IN TEXTILE PRODUCTION- Process Factory

Hello, Im Francesca Rulli, nice to meet you, I come from Process Factory, from Florence, from
Italy and I have 20 minutes to speak with you about sustainability and environmental impact and I
think its really important in this moment to comprehend what is sustainability, because we can see a
large use of these word today, we can see that one spot of five is on sustainability, so it is an
important issue for marketing, but now I speak about real sustainability, of a system that the
company have to improve and to rethink for make a balance between the economic issues, the
environment and planet issues and the social issues. This is sustainability.

I start with this definition that I think everybody know, but its important to comprehend what are
people, planet and profit, because all the companies in supply chain are now involved in thinking
anyway a new business model that leads profit to planet and people. As you know Agenda 2030 in
this definition had asked to define the .that we are now engage to reach during next year. So
every company in this chain are involved in restarting and rethinking their business model to
change and reach this .. Everybody with the capability they have. We can start thinking to some
facts: customers, institutions, and you, everybody said us now that we are re-pushing this direction.

If you see at Google, during last years Google researches about sustainable fashion, we can see that
in the last years the research has decrease in an important way. So the consumer now is really
careful to what is sustainable and what not. Where I do this work, who and how, not only the
progress but also the story and role they have. And why fashion? Because fashion industry is the
second in .. after oil and gas industry. The use of resources, chemicals and water are really strong,
so this is an important factor in fashion in which everybody can contribute in changing the world.
This survey, the important surveys said us that the 58% of the young people, born between the end
of the last century, are they the Millennials, are really interesting in sustainable and think
fashion.. for attention , and we see that this generations grow this attention and 81% of them
would be able to pay more, a higher price for a sustainable program/project. This is a very
important number that tells us what is changing in young people. For these reasons a lot of brands
are committed with sustainable policies and we can estimate that about 250 billions of the total
turnover now are committed in sustainable project.

About 50% of the total fashion production and this number is increasing every day, every month
and every year. So we can see that consumers, brands are engaged and also governments and
institutions are engaged, we have list before, all the legislations, all the new rules go in this
direction. European Commission spends about 1.8 billion a year, so it could be a really important
issue to change the way of purchasing this kind of materials. We have also an other important
stakeholder that push in this direction, as you know Greenpeace with Detox campaign has made a
big word to push the supply chain in listen to the chemical reduction on processes. During the last
campaign this important feature that global clothing production have . And nowadays a person
with 50% more items of clothing than 15 years ago.

So this big consumption has asked that we have to work on our supply chain to reduce this impact
in one way. These are the most important topics that involve the fashion industry in this big change,
and as you know social compliance is another important topic, row material selection, because we
have to change, to study, to choose different row material in this process in our production, and so
think to recycle and circular economy, eco design, energy efficiency and chemical management. All
of this items and topics are really important to create a sustainable change. So all the companies
have to think what are the best ways I can re-design and rethink my business model introducing
these issues. This consideration is really important, we started I think 30 yeas ago but this method,
this sustainability was too theoretical, was only a slogan. Nowadays is a fact, is something we can
do, there are methodologies, there are standards, there are . ..and so not only attention but actions
and no longer a casual activity but items, we have to define the way to create concrete management
system in company and create ., data, data that demonstrate that our company is really engage
in sustainability, really reach goals, and not only commitment. And so in supply chain all of our
companies we have to speak about these important topics, open doors to transparency, our
companies ., are historical and not transparent, so we have to change and to be transparent.
We must be organised. All of the fashion industries are trying to do proper activities and not
organization, not management. Only profit. And now we have to mange and to organize, we have to
rethink process and product, because if yesterday we organize project in one way, we now have to
think a better way to reduce social impact and environmental impact., and then we have to give
everything of what we can doing, is not a market definition, is not only a goal, but we have to
give., and the accountability and data. All the supply chains are involved in what we have said,
in the sustainable index, a data, or data connection that demonstrate that I reduce in process, I
reduce social and environmental impact in the way I can do. This is what we can define the
sustainable management system, is integration in my process of the social and environmental
reduction of risk.

Only 2 words about chemical management, it is an important topic in this moment as you know, all
the supply chains are called to change and reduce a long list of chemical substances that we can
define as toxic. Greenpeace started with 12 groups of substances..and this list is
what companies give to supply chain starting form the brand, arrive to the final, the last part of the
supply chain and everybody are involved in this reduction. How can we do this difficult work? The
main thing is to match the supply chain and define what is the real chain in which we produce
items, so starting from row materials and chemicals that we use in the process. We can arrive to this
big target that is reduction in product and in the way of definition. So the main point is, if I want
something that I can set, the product, that is not toxic, so help the human health and I want in the
same time to reduce the .. and waste that may processes are creating, I have to work during all the
processes I realize. All the chemical management systems start form matting the supply chain and
asking with commitment to reduce this long list of substances during the next years. Because as
you see in this schema, you can see that if you reduce row material and the chemicals in setting our
processes, we have surely a final product that is not toxic, there is no water emission, no discharge
or.discharge and also reduce the impact during the maintenance of our product. And so this is
the final target that has reduced the impact in our human health, because all of these emissions
arrive in our places and in our food, because fish is in everything we eat. This is the last part,
everything we do in this project that is development and sustainable project, is at the end to create
data, because we have to be transparent, we have to demonstrate and define what we are doing.
These data are usually in 2 directions, the institutional data like .., brochures, stories, and direct
communication....................... that can represent what we have done and help us to demonstrate all
the changed processes..
Thank you for your attention.