Companion tools for

use with the CEM

A comprehensive
collection of coastal
engineering software
developed by or for
ERDC
VT enhanced and
improved existing CERC
models within a
Windows-based
interface with graphics

VT provides a DEMO version of

CEDAS that permits you to
operate any of the models in CEDAS but does not allow saving, printing, exporting any
file or information. This DEMO can be downloaded from our web site (approx. 25 Mb)
or it can be shipped to you on CD for a shipping/handling charge.
 CEDAS Modules
General Engineering
ACES - collection of general coastal engineering codes
EST - life cycle risk analysis / storm impacts
RELIABLE reliability-based structure design
Inlet Processes
DYNLET - powerful 1-D hydrodynamic model
NMLong-CW - simulates longshore current and
transport rate new roller model
Beach Processes
SBEACH - simulates cross-shore beach / dune erosion
RMAP regional morphology analysis package
BMAP - beach morphology analysis tools
NEMOS - simulates nearshore evolution (includes wave
models - RCPWAVE & STWAVE - and
shoreline change model GENESIS & GENESIS_T)
 8 Functional Areas 34 CODES
Windspeed Adjustment and Wave Growth
Beta-Raleigh Distribution
ACES is an Wave Prediction Extremal Significant Wave Height Analysis
interactive Constituent Tide Analysis
Near-surface wind speeds
computer-based Holland Hurricane Model
design and analysis Wave Theory Linear Wave Theory
system in the field Cnoidal Wave Theory
of coastal engineering Fourier Series Wave Theory - Fenton
Wave Parameters
containing eight Wave Transformation Solitary Wave Theory
functional areas. Linear Wave Theory with Snells Law
Irregular Wave Transformation - Godas Method
Combined Diffraction / Reflection by a Vertical Wedge (2)
The original ACES Structural Design Breakwater Design Using Hudson Equation
formulation con- Toe Protection Design
tained only six Nonbreaking Wave Forces at Vertical Walls
Rubble-Mound Revetment Design
functional areas
Wave Runup Irregular Wave Runup on Beaches
and 24 codes Wave Runup / Overtopping on Impermeable Structures
(shown in red). Wave Transmission on Impermeable Structures
Wave Transmission through Permeable Structures
Wave Setup Across Surf Zone
Veri-Tech developed Littoral Processes Longshore Sediment Transport - Deepwater Conditions
all codes shown in blue Longshore Sediment Transport - Breaking Wave Conditions
Longshore Transport using CEDRS / WIS Statistical Data
as a by-product of Beach Nourishment Overfill Ratio
CEM 2.01 PE. Inlet Processes Calculation of Composite Grain-Size Distributions
Simplified Inlet Hydraulics
Wave-current Interaction
Properties of Rectangular Basins
Harbor Design Vessel Generated Waves
Surging of a Moored Vessel
How to use ACES

ACES opens with Fill in meta data

a Welcome screen. for project title
Click Begin a new and notes
application or open
an existing one. Warning message
displayed to select
a functional area, right click in the left window
and begin to name Groups and Cases

Once a group is named, right click in left

window to name & select a case or select one
of the codes in this area signified by the blue
icon buttons
 When any code is selected, a Compute box appears loaded with example
data (examples could be in English or Metric units and Fresh or Salty water).
Change the data to fit your case and
click Calculate results appear in the
lower half of the screen.

Clicking OK displays results in

tabular form in the right window.
If graphics are available for the
application, the Graphics icon will
appear in the left window - in this application only tabular results are presented.
Graphics in ACES
CEDAS uses ComponentOne Chart2D graphics package for plot display. This
package has its own extensive HELP files that permit the user to change colors,
fonts, symbols, and other characteristics of the plot. Simply right click the mouse
on the graph to bring up the Chart2D dialog box to change any of the default
settings for graphics.

Background color and

fonts changed using
2D Chart Control box
 Empirical Simulation Technique
Overview
Procedure for simulating multiple life-cycle sequences of non-deterministic multi-
parameter systems
Based on a "Bootstrap" resampling-with-replacement, interpolation, and subsequent
smoothing technique
Employs random sampling of a finite length database to generate a larger database
A generalized risk analysis procedure for any cyclic or frequency-related
phenomena
Applications include risk / frequency of:
Flood levels due to storms
Erosion of dredged material mounds
Storm-induced beach / dune erosion
Scour at bridge piles due to extreme currents
ETC! Applications are endless!
Basic assumption: future events statistically similar in magnitude &
frequency to past events
Procedure
Start with analysis of historical events that have impacted a specific locale (for
simplicity, this presentation is restricted to flood frequency analysis)
Select a database of storm events for your project site
Parameterize events in some way to define their characteristics and impacts
Parameters that define the storms are referred to as Input Vectors
Response Vectors define storm-related impacts
Input & response vectors are used as the basis for generating life-cycle simulations
of storm-event activity with corresponding impacts

Tropical storm input vectors - describe the physical characteristics of the storm event
& the location of the event with respect to the project site. Examples include:
central pressure deficit, radius to maximum winds, maximum wind velocity, minimum distance
from the eye of the storm to the project site (track), forward speed of the eye, tidal phase and
amplitude during the event, etc.

Extratropical storm input vectors might include:

duration of event as measured by some threshold damage criteria, associated wind wave heights
and periods, tidal phase and amplitude, storm surge elevation with no tidal contribution, etc.

Note: Input vectors are not limited to those described; they can be any physical attribute of the
overall system that may affect the response of the system. For example, in some applications
rainfall and river stage could be included as input vectors since their values influence the
computed distribution of high water within a basin.
Response vectors define storm-related impacts such as inundation and shoreline / dune
erosion. Both tropical & extratropical storm impacts might include:
maximum surge or flood elevation, shoreline erosion, dune recession, etc.

Response vectors are related to input vectors BUT the interrelationship is

highly nonlinear and involve correlation relationships that cannot be directly
defined, i.e., nonparametric
For example, in addition to storm input parameters storm surge is a function of local
bathymetry, shoreline slope and exposure, spatial and temporal gradients of ocean
currents, temperature, etc. It is assumed these combined effects are reflected by the
response vectors even though their individual contribution to the response is unknown.
Response parameters are usually not available from post-storm records at the spatial
density required for a frequency analysis.

Additional tools needed: Response vectors are generally computed via numerical
models. For example:
maximum surge elevation may require a hydrodynamic model coupled to a
tropical storm model or databases containing extratropical wind fields
storm-related erosion may require additional models to compute berm / dune erosion

Typical models for simulating response phenomena might be:

DYNLET, STWAVE, SBEACH, GENESIS, ADCIRC, ETC!
Example Application flood frequency for South Carolina
For tropical storms the NOAA HURDAT
database covers 150 years of tropical storm
information impacting the east and Gulf coast
of the U.S. EST contains the HURDAT database.

Begin a new session

Coastal Reach

# events/yr = # historical events

# observation yrs
# repetitions of a life cycle - N
Specify title, units, datum, & case notes
# of years in a life cycle - T

Specifying seed Next set tropical storm parameters

allows run
Similar for extratropical storms
duplication
 Define Station locations

Set graphics controls

For the actual study 38 stations were selected.
Station names & locations can be imported as
an ASCII file, entered directly, OR created
graphically.
In this study there was a single
response. Settings to the left
refer to what curves are shown
on all plotted results.
Columns of the
storm database:
# of event
Historical or not
Relative probability
Storm name
I1 tidal phasing HUGO
I2 distance from eye
I3 central pressure
deficit
EST input tropical storms
I4 max wind speed [similar for extratropical events]
I5 forward speed
R1 max water elevation
Selection of a Training Set of storms
Ideally: historical data will be adequate insofar that it includes both the number of events
and the severity of events as measured by their descriptive parameters. Experience
shows this is usually not the case for less frequent tropical events.

Steps in selecting an appropriate storm set:

Remove redundant events
Augment the database with historical like storms
(necessary for very sparse databases)

Historical like storms: storms that could have occurred such as:
one with a slightly altered path or one with increased/decreased radius to maximum wind

Probability of the historical like storms

is shared with the actual event. In the
example presented here, Hurricane Hugos
path was altered to form two similar
storms on a path approximately 0.25 N
and 0.25 S of the actual path.

The ADCIRC model was used to compute

the storm response for each event in the
Training Set.
 View / export plots and
/ or tabular data

Example results
 EST can develop input files directly
from HURDAT data

1 - specify criteria to select storms, input

parameters, & station location
2 - select storms from the file to analyze [add all]
3 - identify candidates you want to include by
examining track and viewing storm data
4 - select / export your storm set

Storm Analysis in EST

RELIABLE
Theory of reliability-based design
Reliability methods are readily adaptable to a wide variety of coastal structure design
and evaluation problems and provide a powerful tool for rationally making economic
compromises that are always necessary in civil engineering. The RELIABLE code allows
a Level II analysis (approximates reliability assuming the limit state equation is normally
distributed and converts all random correlated non-normally distributed variables to
non-correlated normally distributed variables, or assumes a mathematically simplified
form of the failure surface, or both). RELIABLE employs a Taylor Series expansion of
the limit state equation about some critical point and reliability is computed as the
minimum distance between the failure surface and zero. A discussion of this approach
can be found in a WES Technical Report by Melby and Mlakar (1997).

Equations that describe aspects of coastal structures can be formulated in terms of a

performance or failure function. Examples for rubble-mound structures include
equations for armor stability (Hudson, van der Meer, etc.), breakage, runup, scour, etc.
In general the failure function is formulated as

g = R - S or g = C - D

where R and S stand for resistance and loading or C and D for capacity and demand,
respectively. Usually R and S are functions of many random variables and the limit
state is given by the equation g = 0, that is, g = 0 represents the failure surface that
separates the safe region from the failure region.
Theory of reliability-based design contd

The probability of failure is given by Pf = Prob [ g 0 ] and the reliability is

defined as Rf = 1 - Pf . The reliability index, , is defined as the mean of g divided
by its standard deviation: = g / g .

The first step to estimate the reliability of a design is to establish a limit state equation
in one of two forms:

safety margin: g(x) = R(xR) S(xS)

safety factor: F(x) = R(xR) / S(xS)

such that g > 0 or F > 1 represents satisfactory performance. In the above equations,
x represents a set of stochastic variables describing geometry, material properties,
and loading for the particular limit state, R is a function of the set of stochastic
resistance or capacity variables, xR, and S is a function of the set of stochastic loading
or demand variables xS. Refer to CEM 2.01 Professional Edition and Melby and
Mlakar (1997) for details on Reliability theory and formulation of the Taylor Series
Finite Difference approach to solving the set of equations by an iterative mean point
analysis (basis of Program RELIABLE).
 General Expressions
Any limit state equations or performance functions can be used in reliability analysis.
Rather than developing codes specific to a given set of equations, RELIABLE takes
the approach of solving two general expressions that together can represent most any
equation in the CEM dealing with structures. These two general expressions for limit
state equations are:

1 1 2 3
G C1 R R R ..... C2 C r r r ....
1 2 3 1 2 3
31 2 3
1

Variable # 1 2

1 2 3

C4 S S S .... C5 C s s s ....
1 2 3
1 2 3
6 1 2 3
2

Variable # 3 4

1 2 1 2 1 2 C6 SS11SS2 2 ...
2 G C R R ... C2 N [C3S1 S2 ... C s s ...(C5 e
1 1 2 4 1 2 ) ]
Variable # 1 5 3 4

where
N [ P Qss1 1ss2 2 ]
Variable # 2

The variables R, r, S, s, SS, and ss are all stochastic variables. All other terms are either exponents
of the variables or constants. The variable numbers are included as input to the program.
Running RELIABLE

RELIABLE is organized in a manner similar to ACES

Fill in meta data
for project title
and notes
RELIABLE opens
with a Welcome
screen. Click
Begin a new
application or
open an existing Right click in left
one. window to name a
New Group.
Highlight the group
name and select a
Case name to bring
up the compute
window
Example Hudsons Equation
When the Compute box appears, it is
loaded with example data for Hudsons Equation

Click Select Governing Safety

Margin Equation to bring in data
for any safety margin equation
discussed in Chapter 6 of
CEM 2.01 PE
To fit this equation to Expression 1,
the coefficients C1 to C6 become
1.0, 1.0, 0.0, 1.0, 1.0, 0.0, respectively.
The exponents and variable numbers
are shown for each variable on the
left and exponents 1 and 2 are both
one.
View tabular or graphic results
of the analysis and influence
factors note that wave height
H has the dominating influence
on the answer 97 % !
For a reliability of 98 % - no failure a nominal stone size of 3.8 m is needed.
DYNLET - A model for one-dimensional fluid flow from the ocean
through a tidal inlet, into back bay regions, and up tributaries
Q
Governing Equations: q 0
y t
Q Q 2 z
gS f gB s gS e g
t y y
Solution
Finite Difference - Implicit
Conservation of mass satisfied at junctions

Time

j+1
M
t
t
j
y
i -1 i i+1
Theta () = 0 Explicit
0.5 < 1.0 Implicit Distance along channel
 Data Edit Menu
Right click case
Workspace name & select
Edit Case

Session
Files
Zero Discharge
Zero Discharge
6 folders are constructed Example Grid
for each new case

Ocean
Tide

Session Potential for

Files lateral inflow
 Data entries: Channel and Junction information

Boundary Conditions

Indicate where you want output

Velocity - nodes and X-sectional stations are plotted

Hi-Lighted station appears hi-lighted on plot
 Cross section data
Prepare data on spreadsheet
and import
Or enter data directly
Plot below helps decision on
discretization for best channel
representation
Ability to insert / delete nodes

Distance between nodes

Lateral inflow rates
Channel alignment angles
Transition loss coefficients
Initial discharge rates
 Time Dependent Data

Specify time series for:

Elevation
Discharge
Wind Speed
Wind Direction

Hi-light any tabular column and plot versus time

 Display Results
Expanding folders
permits access to
Stations R
E
Discharges S
Velocities U
L
Stages T
S

Hand Icon - holds

plot for overlay

Control graphic
properties
2D Chart graphics
Automated Grid Generation in DYNLET
Cross-section data can
be developed on screen
by importing bathy-
metry data, developing
a background grid,
and selecting nodes
and cross sections
using the mouse

Steps shown at left

for importing an
ASCII (text) x,y,z
bathymetry file
The background grid will be
used for interpolating cross-
sectional data
 It is not
necessary to
use any special
shoreline data

NOAA Website:
www.ngdc.noaa.gov/mgg/
bathymetry/relief.html

Shoreline data
Construct nodes and cross sections
Visualizing / Editing Grid
 NMLong-CW Model Formulation
Numerical Model for Simulating Longshore Current - Wave Interaction

NMLong-CW simulates wave transformation, the steady-state wave-generated

longshore current, and change in water level at an inlet / beach by waves and wind.
The interaction between a current and waves can significantly alter the wave height
and wavelength. NMLong-CW is a one-dimensional model and is limited to
situations where longshore uniformity applies.

d dV 1 dS xy
Alongshore Momentum Equation - Current
d f by Rw Rlc
dx dx dx
d dS xx
Cross-Shore Momentum Equation
Mean Water Level
gd CD a W W cos
dx dx

2 gr 1
where Sxx = radiation stress transported
onshore
1
S xx gH
C

cos 1
2

8 Cr 2

Assumes no interaction between external current & wave/wind generation

 Model Attributes
Solves wave energy flux conservation equation
Accounts for wave shoaling, refraction, breaking, and reforming
Transformation of random waves calculated by Monte-Carlo simulation
Wave energy dissipation accompanying depth-limited breaking described in
accordance with Dally et al. (1985)
Cross-shore momentum equation solved numerically to obtain the change in water level
Equation governing alongshore momentum gives the distribution of the steady
longshore current velocity across the shore
Longshore current and change in water level (setup and setdown) driven by a
local wind can be specified
Nonlinear bottom friction computed from an efficient approximation
Lateral mixing is modeled with an eddy viscosity that depends on the local wave
orbital velocity and wave height
Revised to describe both depth- and steepness-limited wave breaking
Uses similar formulation to quantify energy dissipation produced by these two types
of breaking
Provides for an external (large-scale) current in addition to the wave- and
wind-driven currents
NEW Wave Roller Model breaker-induced turbulence - generates a momentum flux
before energy dissipation occurs
Data Requirements

Beach profile

Waves & Wind

Direction, Period, Speed
Regular or random

Model Setup
# cells, Xstart, Dx, Dref
Dtide

Empirical Parameters
Various coefficients

External Current
Constant or variable
 Waves and Wind Model Setup

Zwref: Wave direction at the reference depth. M: Number of cells in offshore grid

TA: Absolute wave period of the incident waves Xstart: 1st active calculation point
absence of a current Dx: Distance between calculation
Zwind: Wind direction from which the wind blows points (dx)

W: Wind speed Dref: Reference depth the depth

which offshore information is
Regular waves: constant height, period, and direction calculated and boundary values
Random waves: random in height obeying a Rayleigh specified
Distribution, but with fixed direction and period. Dtide: Offset in mean water level
Empirical Parameters

Cf (Cf): Bottom friction coefficient (0.005 - 0.015)

Lammix (): Eddy viscosity coefficient (length
velocity 0.15 0.5)
Gamst (): Coefficient controlling the depth at
which a wave will be stable and not break
or decay as broken wave (typical 0.4)
Gambr ( b): Breaker index controls depth-limited
breaking of individual waves (typical 0.78)
Kappa (): Coefficient controlling decay of a depth-
limited broken wave in the model of Dally, Dean, and
Dalrymple (typical 0.15)

If the Dally & Brown roller model is used (recommended),

two additional coefficients are required:

R: Coefficient related roller speed and wave speed

[ C = R Cr ] (of order 1)
D: Wave dissipation coefficient (about 0.1)
 URLS and URCS: External longshore current and
External Current cross-shore current, respectively at the reference
depth. URLS is directed positively in a right-handed
coordinate system with the current moving
alongshore, and URCS is directed positively for a
current moving offshore.
Use constant currents: If constant currents are
specified, values are given in the boxes with signs
according to the discussion above.
Use variable currents: If the Constant current box
is unchecked, then longshore and cross-shore
currents with distributions across shore are
specified.

Visser 1 tank test with and without the

roller model use the Hold Hand icon
to overlay plots
 NEMOS System Components &
Typical Procedures

NEMOS
Wave, Wind, & Water Level Editor
WIS Phase III Transformation
Wave Statistical Analysis and Visualization
Spectra Generation
Grid Generation
STWAVE / RCPWAVE
Wave Model Visualization
GENESIS
Tidal Current Editor
GENESIS_T
 Procedures for Shoreline Change Modeling
Develop Offshore Wave Time Series
Import to NEMOS
Statistically Analyse Develop Input for Wave Model
Develop Input for Wave Model
Grid generation GRID GENeration, GRIDGEN
Input spectra Import bathymetry data, triangulate, inspect/modify,
Configure Wave Model define grid region, generate grid, inspect/modify,
Model Settings / File associations
Simulate save Spatial Domain file. Specify station locations,
Develop Input for GENESIS inspect/modify, sort stations, save Station file.
Configuration / Set-up GRIDGEN allows automated station selection and
Calibrate / Verify GENESIS grid generation save GENESIS
Simulate / Forecast Spatial Domain file.
Develop Input for GENESIS
Configuration Wave Time Series, WWWL
Simulation title, units, Start/End dates, Import wave information, transform (WISPH3),
time step, animation time step. filter, statistically analyze (WSAV), save Permutations
Offshore & nearshore wave, printable file, generate input spectra (SPECGEN), save
output, and visualization file associations. Spectrum file.
Beach, sand, & transport specifications
Boundary conditions Configure Model, STWAVE
Spatial Domain
Shoreline Position Information import, Title, wind, and water level specifications, input and
coordinate transformation, model reach output file associations, save Configuration file.
preparation. Simulate, visualize (WMV).
Structures position in grid, length,
permeability, transmission, etc. Engineering activities beach fill, bypassing, etc.
Construct a STWAVE model grid and a GENESIS grid
within GRIDGEN
The example chosen is a location on the coast of Spain.

JUCAR
River
GRID Generation using GRIDGEN Steps for importing data
Import JUCAR bathymetry into GRIDGEN File JUCAR_bathyxyz.txt as
Local [first open GRIDGEN and right click on screen].
1 Select Import Data

3 Specify
coordinate
2 - Select file
system
and type
4 Enter metadata

7 6
Depress the two
buttons shown
5 - Raw data appears by the arrow 7
on screen right to remove the
click and triangulate display of points
and cells of the
background
grid triangles
 Use GRIDGEN to construct STWAVE & GENESIS grids
Once the bathymetry data are imported into GRIDGEN the grid is constructed
by manually specifying the same origin coordinates, axes length, and azimuth as
shown below for the JUCAR example case.
Right click and
select Build Uniform
Grid. The grid is
constructed manually
with the STWAVE
origin at:
Xo = 739885.841
Yo = 4338149.85
Rx = 1575 m
Ry = 3675 m
Azimuth = 255

Grid origins were

determined from a
cartographic layout
of the project area
 Next, shoreline points are imported into GRIDGEN File
JUCARshoreline19570601.XY this is a text file
[shoreline points can be imported before or after grid construction]

Button for displaying

shoreline points

Right click select Import

Data and choose file and type
GENESIS auto-grid generation requires you to design the wave model grid to extend landward far
enough to include the desired GENESIS origin. The Create GENESIS Grid button allows you to
click the mouse at the desired location of Cell Wall 1 in the GENESIS grid (red circle). The GENESIS
origin will lie dx away. Cell Wall 1 is forced to coincide with the center of a wave model cell. Its
coordinates are computed and appear in a dialog box that requires the GENESIS dx, axis length,
contour depth where stations are to be placed, and the frequency of station placement.

First magnify the

area where the
GENESIS origin
will be selected.

Then click the

desired location
of cell wall 1 this
brings up the
GENESIS Grid
Specifications
dialog box. The
GENESIS origin is
already computed
Construction
enter values for dx,
X-axis length, of the GENESIS
contour depth for grid
Stations, and place-
ment frequency.
 Adjusting location of Station Points selected by GRIDGEN

Automated selection of
Station Points

Adjust by clicking on a
Station Point and dragging
it to the desired location

Final GENESIS grid and Station Points.

Adjustments can be made to any area of
the grid by releasing the Zoom and
re-magnifying the desired area.
Final grid for running STWAVE showing all station points and GENESIS grid.
Zoom in on the bathymetry display to see overlay of GENESIS grid. Export the wave
model Spatial Domain file (JUCAR_spd.nc), Station file (JUCAR_sta.nc), and
the GENESIS Spatial Domain file (JUCAR_GEN_spd.nc).

Final grids and

Station Points

Export all necessary files

STWAVE: Configuration file
Files
Tab

Title

Wind specifications

Water level
specifications

Tidal current
specifications

Parent / Nested grid

options

Configuration Tab
SPECGEN - Preparation for running STWAVE
For the JUCAR example problem only one year of wave data were available. These
data were analyzed using WSAV to identify 67 different wave height, period, and
direction combinations that represent wave action in the project area. WSAV produces
a permutation file of wave conditions that is used by SPECGEN to derive input spectra
for STWAVE. Sufficient bins are specified to properly represent spectral conditions.

Highest
Recommended Controls Frequency Spread energy

Event 30102

Controls Direction Spread

Wave frequency increases
with distance from center
 STWAVE simulation
STWAVE requires several files the example problem
only requires spatial domain, spectrum, field, station, and
print files. In the example JUCAR problem, the files are:
Simulate
Invoke WMV to view results
after run completion First save the STWAVE
Configuration file and
JUCAR.stw
JUCAR_spd.nc initiate the simulation
JUCAR_spec.sgn by clicking
Input files

JUCAR_fld.nc
JUCAR_sta.nc
JUCAR.prt

Output files
Station file is both Input & Output

Wave Model Visualization - WMV
Input files for Field and Station
Setup Wizard
Draw Station Locations
Plot Station Data
Select event
Select primary data set
to be viewed
Wave height contours
Bathymetry isolines
Wave direction vectors
 Steps in running GENESIS
The first step is to open a new GENESIS file and import the GENESIS Spatial
Domain file that was saved in GRIDGEN. Much of the data required by
GENESIS have already been developed in GRIDGEN. You need to complete and
save the configuration file and set conditions for Structures, Bypass, Beach fills,
Sand/Beach/Transport, and Boundary Conditions. The Coordinate System geo-
reference data have already been computed and passed to GENESIS. The initial
shoreline was imported by GRIDGEN and passed to GENESIS.
Open GENESIS, click File and open
the GENESIS Spatial Domain file:
JUCAR_GEN_spd.nc for the example
case to obtain:

Initiate GENESIS
GENESIS setup - import reference or background shorelines
Select Edit/Shorelines/Initial [or Reference]

The initial GENESIS shoreline was interpolated for model application and passed
to GENESIS by GRIDGEN. For the JUCAR example, a 1965 shoreline is imported
as a reference or target for calibration results. Shoreline data are imported via
File/Import X-Y pairs; next select Edit/Coordinate transformation to convert the import-
ed data into the local GENESIS coordinate system - the proper transformation coordi-
nates are already loaded. Select Edit/Model Reach preparation to prepare the target
reference shoreline.

Displayed below are

both the original
and target reference
shoreline 8 years
later. Calibration
efforts will attempt
to reproduce the
1965 observations.

Initial shoreline

Reference shoreline
 GENESIS setup enter boundary conditions

Regional contours were

not used in this example.
See Help file for proper use
of adjustment factors and
interpolation settings. Shown
are default settings used in
the JUCAR example.

Settings for JUCAR

example gated with
a groin on the left and
a moving boundary on
the right
 GENESIS simulation

Save Configuration file

Save GENESIS Spatial Domain file
Simulate by clicking

GENESIS visualization
The graphical workspace can be exported
Additional Plan View Selections
Color / View options
Shoreline comparison plots
Transport rate plots
Animation of shoreline evolution
View printed output
 GENESIS results at end of simulation

Last exposure
from animated
Shoreline has retreated to near the measured shoreline evolution
1965 shoreline

Shoreline comparison

Transport rate plot

NEW
Regional Contour Trend in GENESIS
Specification of regional, stationary offshore features for transforming waves in the internal
GENESIS wave module is used to aid determination of the long-term equilibrium planform
of highly crenulated beaches in the absence of coastal structures. The pre-specified contour
is supposed to reflect the impact of features and processes that are otherwise not represented
in the GENESIS simulations.

Sample illustration of measured shoreline

and the associated regional trend
13600
Variable Transmission Breakwater

13200
Use of variable transmission requires
Distance From Baseline (m)

input of a water level file created within

12800
WWWL.

12400

Measured Shoreline
Tidal Currents
Regional Trend
12000

Tidal currents may come from

11600 measurements or from an application
36000 40000 44000 48000
Distance Alongshore (m) of a hydrodynamic model.
 Wave Statistical Analysis & Visualization - WSAV
WSAV is used to analyze a set of wave conditions for usual wave statistics. In WSAV, open Wave
Component and import the nocalm file saved in WWWL. Use the Edit pull-down menu to first
choose Band Limits to set range bands of Height, Period, and Direction ; then Analyze to compute
the statistics.
If you have more than one wave component, they are
loaded separately. Statistics are computed for the
total wave.

After bands are assigned, clicking

Analyze runs the analysis program.

Assign bands for

H, T, and

Period Direction

Height
Block Diagram
WSAV
In the sample data the total number of occurrences add up
to 2601. Periods greater than 22 sec were filtered. There
are several ways to display statistics in WSAV, however,
this block diagram gives a good description and tells you
that the selection of bands chosen resulted in 29 cases to
run with a wave model, each case representative of the
possible periods and direction out of the 1-year population
that may cause sediment transport.

The next advisable step is to review these results in the

WWWL editor. The wave heights are assigned a unit
value to make estimation of the shoaling coefficient
intuitive. If substantial breaking is expected prior to
waves reaching shore, height bands should be applied.
Note that the permutation file is indexed rather than
time related. If these wave conditions are used to drive
GENESIS, an index look-up scheme is used to assign wave
Conditions, based on the incident wave time series, at each
station point fronting the beach.

The next step is to use these results to run

RCPWAVE or SPECGEN [prior to STWAVE].
 Output from WSAV

WSAV produces a 29-component permutation file for use in either RCPWAVE or

SPECGEN and STWAVE. The Permutation File for the 29-component run:
Local Polar : D0_perm.nc WSAV print file : D0_wsav.wsv

The file: C1_BND_wav_ph3.nc which is in Shore_Reference 3 would be brought into WWWL

and a conversion to Local Polar [or Shore_Reference 1] made to be able to use these data as
the incident wave time series to drive GENESIS. However, there is no constraint in GENESIS and
the convention of the incident wave file will be adjusted to fit GENESIS.
Permutation file integer indexed
30201 Angle band 3
Period band 2
Height band 1

Histogram
 NEW
Nested Grids in STWAVE and GRIDGEN
To use a nested grid in STWAVE, first develop both parent and nested grid in GRDIGEN.
The example below was constructed using the JUCAR data. The parent grid is shown
click the Nested Grid tool and generate
the nested domain in a similar manner as
constructing the parent grid. Here the
parent grid has a resolution of 25 m and
the nested grid 10 m. The nested grid
can be constructed graphically (clicking
the mouse at locations 1, 2, & 3) or
3 manually. Designated stations
adjacent to the nested-grid ocean
boundary are automatically
selected by the code. Spectra will
be saved at each of the designated
1 2
stations when the parent grid is
run. The code forces you to save
the spatial domain file for the
Designated nested grid.
stations in RED
Storm-induced BEAch CHange (SBEACH)
Simulates cross-shore beach, berm, and dune erosion
Applied in beach fill project design and evaluation
Based on equilibrium beach profile concept

Features include:
Sediment transport model
Breaking wave model
Monochromatic & irregular waves
Calculates runup , wave-induced
setup, and dune overwash
Seawalls & non-erodible hard
bottoms
Interacts with BMAP for
profile analysis
SBEACH Input Requirements
Import / enter profile data
Import / enter storm data in the example there
are data for wave height, period, and water
elevation program will use whatever data are
available
SBEACH - Configuration

Grid structure

Profile
variation

Seawall
information
Model coefficients

Sediment transport
coefficients
 SBEACH
Model Output
Results: Global export options
Wave Height
Water Elevation
Profile Shape
Max Values
Volume Change

Export
animation

Results sent to
BMAP for
additional
analysis
Beach Morphology Analysis Package - BMAP
Collection of automated and interactive tools to analyze morphologic and dynamic
properties of beach profiles. BMAP is dynamically linked with SBEACH to support
beach erosion analysis.
While both BMAP and
SBEACH were opened,
results from SBEACH
for Reach3 were sent
to BMAP here a
comparison is made
between the Final &
Measured profiles.

Profiles can be entered

manually or imported.
BMAP organizes its
data into subgroups
of the project.

2D Chart graphics are

used in BMAP
BMAP Tools LEFT BUTTON RIGHT BUTTON
Averages displayed profiles
Bar properties

Profile comparison
Cut and fill

Horizontal alignment
Least-square estimate

Translate profiles
Transport rate

Profile volume
Volume from Xon to Xoff

Beach fill placement

Generate equilibrium profile

Interpolated profile
Generate modified equilibrium
profile
Generate plane sloping profile
Combine two profiles
Analyze morphologic / dynamic properties of beach profiles

BMAP
Additional tools in BMAP

Planform Evolution Model