We observed a number of rarely seen birds on this tour, but few are as rarely seen and poorly known as
the Minahassa Masked-Owl, endemic to Sulawesi. (Dion Hobcroft)
And so it was we arrived in Manado on the Minahassa Peninsula on the northern extremity of Sulawesi
to start our Indonesian Highlights tour. It was great to read Wallaces classic book The Malay
Archipelago while leading this tour, and I have added a few extracts to liven up this trip report.
We spent our first morning on Mahawu, a dormant volcano, birding from the park gate to the forest
edge. It was alive with small birds, and we generated a few surprises including excellent views of the
scarce Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker, Streak-headed Dark-eye, some recalcitrant glimpses of the
Chestnut-backed Bush-Warbler, well-behaved Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpeckers, and the distinctive lilac-
breasted subspecies of Superb Fruit-Dove which was quite common. All up there was plenty of activity
ranging from close Black Eagles to colorful Sulawesi Myzomelas, while fruiting mistletoes attracted good
numbers of both Yellow-sided and Gray-sided flowerpeckers. Mixed flocks held Mountain Tailorbird,
Citrine Canary-Flycatcher, Island Verditer Flycatcher, Sulphur-vented Whistler, and Sulawesi Babbler. We
headed for a siesta. Post-break we explored some rice fields with Javan Pond-Herons in full breeding
plumage and the first arriving Wood Sandpipers of the austral summer. We created a stir in a restaurant
as we scoped a big flock of Sunda Teal. With dusk fast approaching, Mahawu gave up its biggest prize
when Albert spotted the highly unobtrusive Scaly-breasted Kingfisher. This bird gave a mega view,
although it was in thick rainforest in low light. Thank you Albert! A White-bellied Imperial-Pigeon
lumbered over. On dark we trawled for owls and hit the jackpot with a fine enormous female Sulawesi
Masked Owl that proved reluctant to perch overhead in our selected big tree. It did, however, perch for
an extended view at a distance and, thanks to Jims extraordinary torch, it gave a decent view.
To say our first day at Tangkoko was a highlight of the tour would be an understatement. While we
worked hard, the rewards just kept coming, and it was for me one of the finest birding days of the year.
Sulawesi Scops-Owl for breakfastwell, not quite, but tucked up in their bamboo thicket, it was the first
bird of the day. Pale-blue Monarch was followed by a troop of one hundred Crested Black Macaques. A
superb pair of the scarce Sulawesi Nightjar was scoped in the day, a rare event. An Isabelline Bush-hen
chose this moment to lope across in front of us. The Green-backed Kingfishers would not leave us alone
when the first of three Red-backed Thrushes posed beautifully. A Bay Coucal turned up, followed by a
phone call of a Sulawesi Pitta as breaking news. A quick dash and the colorful pitta was well-spotted
hopping across a relatively open hillside in good view. We enjoyed a pair of Spectral Tarsiersone even
jumped out to seize a grasshopper. Tabon Scrubfowl scuttled through. Lunch was delivered on the
beach by outrigger as we were shaded under the Kalapa Palms. A pair of bizarre Bear Cuscus, a powerful
arboreal marsupial, was located in a fruiting Ficus variegata. A perched Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle at close
range in the forest interior, a day-roosting Ochre-bellied Boobook, and four Ashy Woodpeckers
hammering awaywe were living the dream! A Minahassa Masked Owl in the daytime!!!!!!! A Lilac
Kingfisher, Knobbed Hornbill male feeding his hidden brood, the disappearing White-necked Myna,
perched Yellow-breasted Racquet-tails; it was all too much.
Needless to say, we were back at dawn, this time overlooking the forest at peak hour. First cab off the
rank was the Large Hanging-Parrot scoped at eye level at close range; what strange parrots are the
Loriculus. Silver-tipped and Green imperial-pigeons were quite common, while flocks of the bizarre
Grosbeak Starling added to the atmosphere. A possible distant drongo spotted by Tamara manifested
into the scarce Sulawesi Crested Myna. Next, another flew into a tree over our headsyes! We located
some distant Ivory-backed Woodswallows, but the Sulawesi Black Pigeons followed by the flocks of
Gray-cheeked Green-Pigeons were much more obliging. Then we scoped some perched Golden-mantled
A Lilac Kingfisher, another beautiful Sulawesi endemic seen well in Tangkoko. (Dion Hobcroft)
We did not waste much time heading out of this enormous metropolis and into the mountains to the
south, basing ourselves in a lovely hotel in Cibodas. The afternoon was spent exploring the Cibodas
Botanic Gardens where we spotted a few birds, the best of which was a trio of obliging Sunda Forktails.
We found a small mixed flock that contained a timid Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Little Pied Flycatcher,
Black-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, and White-flanked Sunbirds. A pair of Javan Munias was located,
actively building a nest, and bullet-like Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrots refused to settle. We decided to
stay out after dusk to try our luck with the rare Salvadoris Nightjar and had quite good views of it
The highly endangered Silvery Gibbon was seen well in Gunung Gede along with Sunda Thrush and Javan
Cochoa on the same day; we really had some great sightings on this tour. (Dion Hobcroft)
The whole of the next day was dedicated to walking the trails of Gunung Gede National Park. We had an
amazing day getting some very good rewards for our efforts. It could not have started better when we
picked up a Sunda Thrush quietly feeding in a narrow side trail for an extended view of this ever so quiet
and ghost-like bird. Bird activity was good on the lower reaches of the trail in the early morning as we
slowly crept along. We had magical views of Lesser Shortwing, Sunda Blue Robin, Eye-browed Wren-
Babbler, and Pygmy Cupwing. Mixed flocks held Javan Gray-throated White-eye, Sunda Warbler, Lesser
Cuckooshrike, Flame-fronted Barbet, Trilling and Pied shrike-babblers, Javan Fulvetta, and Crescent-
chested Babbler. We stopped for coffee at the clearing and had a superb encounter with a family of
Silvery Gibbons, watching them brachiate and leap from tree to tree, a small youngster leaving its
Few people have seen the dapper Java Sparrow in its natural range where it is almost extinct. We made
the effort to see the handful of pairs that survive in Prambanan. Feral populations survive in Hawaii, Fiji,
Christmas Island, and Sulawesi. The species has a problematic conservation outlook. (Dion Hobcroft)
A quick half-hour the next day produced a perched Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot in the Botanic
Gardens before we recommenced birding at Gede. We had a good result with one of my favorite Javan
endemics, the White-bibbed Babbler, with four birds lined up allopreeninglovely! Then we had a long
stream of noisy school kids and loaded hikers. We finally shook them off as we picked up a hyperactive
flock of Spotted Crocias. A Chestnut-bellied Partridge sang right next to us, but would not come into
view. The primates were in good form though, as we had excellent views in the scope of both Ebony and
Grizzled langurs. A Javan Banded Pitta started calling and, as luck would have it, it was found in a
scopeable location (not that you could see it with bins) and it pirouetted for some very lovely looks.
Beyond one more very good mixed flock, it was time to leave Gede on a high note. The drive back to
Jakarta was painless enough, and we squeezed in an hour of birding in the hotel gardens that produced
Sunda Woodpecker, an Island Collared-Dove, and some skittish Pink-breasted Green-Pigeons.
We flew from Jakarta to Yogyakarta the next morning. We made a visit to the Prambanan Temple, a
famous Hindu temple of exquisite sculpture from the ninth century. We enjoyed the extensive gardens
very much, and we also enjoyed the sightings of Java Sparrow, now a critically endangered species in its
homeland, a bird most people only now encounter in a feral population. It was encouraging to see
several juveniles present. Also of note in the gardens were Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker, nesting
Common Iora (feeding a chick), and the bright red-headed subspecies of Coppersmith Barbet found in
Java and Bali. After a lovely lunch where some folks tried the coffee luwak (civet coffee), we moved
along to Borobudur, Indonesias most famous archaeological attraction. This Buddhist temple built over
a century in the ninthtenth centuries has been largely restored after being abandoned when it was
The handsome Black-banded Barbet is a scarce and elusive endemic to Java and Bali. (Dion Hobcroft)
A morning trek at Gunung Merapi, an active volcano, could not have gotten off to a better start when
we found a really obliging Scaly Thrush feeding on the trail. It was joined by a pair of very tame
Horsfields Babblers, while Long-tailed Macaques waited in the wings for a public handout. The
powerful call of the scarce and colorful endemic Black-banded Barbet lured us uphill and, after a bit of a
battle, we enjoyed some excellent views of this handsome species. Pink-headed Fruit-Doves showed
fantastically while a brief White-bellied Fantail was another lucky break. We had a bit of fun trying to
locate a perched Javan Hawk-Eagle that was lost in the fog before the mist lifted (after a patient wait),
and we had a rare scope view of this powerful crested forest predator, very much an endangered
species. Merapi had been brilliant. After lunch in the old center of Jogya, we flew to Bali to overnight as
we transited to the island of Flores, once again crossing Wallaces Line.
Disembarking at Komodo Airport after the scenic flight that traversed Lombok and Sumbawa past the
spectacular volcanos up to 3,700 meters high like Gunung Rinjani, we were whisked away up the
mountains to Puarlolo. This forest patch turned up the enigmatic Thick-billed Heleia, which we watched
pry a spider out of a tree cleft, followed by the attractive Crested Dark-eye with its remarkably sedate
behavior for a Zosterops and its brilliant bubbly song. Then we tried our luck on the localized Flores
Monarch and succeeded in getting some good views of this Floresian special. A pair of Red-cheeked
Parrots fed tamely over our heads. A Golden-rumped Flowerpecker kept its rump well-concealed! We
drove through to Ruteng, our base for the next three nights. We tried our luck with some nocturnal
Wallace wrote in 1869: Of all the birds of Lombock, however, I sought most after the beautiful ground
thrushes (Pitta concinna), and always thought myself lucky if I obtained one. Well, not much has
changed, and we were thrilled and considered ourselves lucky when we saw the Elegant Pitta so well on
Flores. (Dion Hobcroft)
Early the next morning we were at Golo Lusang, a pass about 1,700 meters above sea level in patchy
montane rainforest with much secondary cut over scrub. This is the place for the extraordinary Bare-
throated Whistler. The males belt out a non-stop sonic, almost synthesizer-like array of complex
whistles that can literally go on for hours, the pink unfeathered throat pulsing constantly as they draw
breath. We soon had a male in the scope as the forest reverberated with their song. There were a lot of
birds about as we racked up good sightings of many endemics including the beautiful Flores Minivet,
Brown-capped Fantail, Scaly-crowned Honeyeater, Flores Leaf-Warbler, Russet-capped Tesia, and
White-browed Dark-eye. A fine adult Rufous-bellied Eagle drifted over and, after a bit of effort, we had a
beautiful Chestnut-backed Thrush teed up, continuing our very good luck with the elusive forest
thrushes on this tour. There were other species like the Blood-breasted Flowerpecker, Short-tailed
Starling, Wallacean Drongo, Cave Swiftlet, Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, and Mountain White-eye. We
wandered down to some ricefields to try for some open country birds when a Brahminy Kite was
bombed by a Spotted Kestrel. We scoped the kestrels that were nesting in a church. We had an
We had a big day planned down to the south coast of Flores. We started early and found ourselves
underneath a chattering Flores Scops-Owl in the predawn darkness. Trouble was that despite being
overhead we could not locate it in the canopy, blocked by much foliage. Once in the coastal forests the
birds began to cooperatefirst up a trio of Flores Green-Pigeons. This was followed by a pair of Flores
Hawk-Eagles that flew right over us, a good result for this scarce endemic. We had almost instant
success with the Glittering Kingfisher, a truly unique forest kingfisher with a powerful red bill. Next we
toyed with the paranoid Flores Crows that yapped at us and leapt about in the trees doing their best to
keep concealed. With patience we had some good views. An Elegant Pitta though, was surprisingly easy
as it perched up and allowed itself to be scoped for a long time. We spotted some more raptors
including good views of both Brown and Variable goshawks and had a fly-over Oriental Honey-buzzard
looking like the resident Javan subspecies. We returned to the mountains and explored the forest
around a volcanic lake that held numbers of Pacific Black Duck and a trio of Little Grebes (here
sometimes split as the Tricolor Grebe). The rain returned with a vengeance so we waited it out in a
picnic shelter with a cup of coffee. It lightened up, and immediately a large mixed flock came through
that included a pair of Pale-shouldered Cicadabirds. A sweet rambling song tipped us off on our next
hoped for speciesthe Flores Jungle-Flycatcherand the overcast conditions favored this bird that
flew out and perched quite openly for an extended time. The great deluge returned and some folks
opted to head in early. The rest waited where we had heard the Flores Scops-Owl; we soon had it
chattering overhead and this time spotted the little rufous, yellow-eyed rascal for a decent view before
it took off. No other nocturnal birds did much, although a Wallaces Scops-Owl called distantly once.
We bade farewell to Ruteng and started our day on a headland overlooking a spider web rice field, a
unique land sharing design of the local families in this region of Flores. Lots of small birds were about
including Rainbow Bee-eater, Golden-headed Cisticola, close views of the two endemic flowerpeckers,
several species of white-eye and Crested Dark-eye, plus a small flock of Red Avadavat. We traveled on to
a valley with numerous Eucalyptus trees planted in it and searched for the Flores Lorikeet. It took a
while to track down these green parrots in the green trees, but we managed to get some good scope
views. No wonder a recent name suggested for this species is Leaf Lorikeet! A few other birds were
bobbing about including a lovely Ruddy Cuckoo-Dove. We returned to Puarlolo where after a patient
wait we all had views of the shy and heavily trapped Chestnut-capped Thrush. In the fields we found
Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Striated Swallow, and Zitting Cisticola, while Zebra Finches greeted us at our new
hotel. The afternoon was fairly quiet as we waited for the elusive Wallaces Hanging-Parrot that was a
no-show. A Metallic Pigeon gave a lengthy flight over us, and the Flame-breasted Sunbirds were in good
form. We enjoyed interacting with the local people in this remote village area, the kids being very
friendly and delightful.
At dawn the next morning we were in a speed boat zooming across Bond-style to Komodo Island, home
to the famous Komodo Dragon, easily the worlds largest and most heavy-bodied lizard, a super-sized
Our first Komodo Dragon was this rather perfect female in excellent condition with some lovely coppery
green scales livening up the black basalt typical ground color. (Dion Hobcroft)
With an hour to spend before we were due at the airport, we squeezed in one last spot, a mangrove
swamp that was alive with birds early in the morning. We scoped a beautiful Small Blue Kingfisher and
then had a major surprise when we picked up two Stork-billed Kingfishers. Both species were very
cooperative. As a final last hurrah we scoped a female Australian Hobby at the airport terminal. As Jim
said, Our tour of Flores finished with a flourish! All up we recorded 261 species on this tour. We
winged our way to Bali where we all continued on with our fabulous Indonesian birding adventure, but
that account is in the next report.
I would like to thank all of our minders, fixers, drivers, and local guides who did such a fantastic job;
awesome Poli and Roman, Bobby and Mansour, Albert, Adoy, Max, and Alfred amongst so many more. It
was a great trip.
Later we found a few giant male Komodo Dragons; this ancient individual was about three meters long
(ten feet) and produced some explosive hissing when disturbed by another male. (Dion Hobcroft)
BIRDS:
MAMMALS:
REPTILES: