Polyether-Modified Silicones

for Cosmetic Applications

Joanna Newton
Ingrid Vervier
Beatrice Durand
Vronique Kowandy
Sylvain Masse
Abstract
Polyether-modified silicones have a long history of use in the personal care industry as emulsifiers and
dispersants, as well as stabilizers for water-in-oil systems. However, because of their external phase
type, water-in-oil systems tend to display poor aesthetics, such as greasiness, tackiness and slow
absorption. A new polyether-modified silicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone (and) C13-16 isoparaffin
(and) C10-13 isoparaffin, was evaluated for its potential to aid in the production of stable water-in-
silicone and water-in-oil formulations with unique textures and enhanced aesthetics. Various oil phases
were studied, including silicone oils, organic oils, and a combination of both. Results of the evaluations
demonstrate the versatility of the new material, and prototype formulations illustrate its broad utility.

A s consumers seek high performance plus unqiue texture and sensory experience, polyether-modified
silicones, or silicone polyethers (SPEs), have gained wide use. With their water solubility, emulsify-
ing and dispersing abilities, these versatile materials are particularly useful for stabilizing water-in-oil
systems. Products based on this approach can offer a range of benefits: resistance to wash-off, uniform
coverage, emolliency and easy spreading. Skin protection and water repellency make SPEs useful in appli-
cations such as novel moisturizing creams, sun care products, color cosmetics, and hair conditioners.

Despite their utility and benefits, water-in-oil systems can present stability challenges, and they can have
poor aesthetics. The use of SPEs allows the combination of emulsion stability with pleasant aesthetics.
SPEs can be delivered either as pure material or in a carrier, most often volatile silicone fluids including
cyclopentasiloxane. This article provides an overview of studies designed to assess the properties of a
new SPE and carrier system, describes how the studies characterize the new material, and illustrates
potential applications.

New Options for Silicone Polyethers

Recent work has focused on developing SPEs in a broader range of carrier fluids, which would allow
more flexibility in formulating different oil phases. Among these carriers, C13-16 isoparaffin (and) C10-
13 isoparaffin has raised specific interest.

The properties of the new emulsifier, PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone (and) C13-16 isoparaffin (and) C10-
13 isoparaffin,1 were evaluated for the production of stable water-in-oil and water-in-silicone
formulations with unique textures. Various oil phases were studied, including silicone oils, organic oils,
and a combination of both.

Other key cosmetic raw materials such as pigments and sunscreens were evaluated in formulation
prototypes. The level of SPE ranged from 2 to 50%, depending on the formulation. Studies show both
cold and hot processes can be used to produce textures ranging from creams to gel-like products, liquids
to viscous emulsions, soft to hard gels, and clear to opaque gels.

SPE Shows Formulating Versatility

These studies demonstrate that stable formulations can be obtained using PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone
diluted into an organic carrier as an emulsifier. An additional benefit derived from the dilution of the
SPE into an organic carrier such as the current combination of C13-16 isoparaffin (and) C10-13
isoparaffin is greater flexibility in the choice of the oil phase, from silicone oils to organic synthetic oils,
vegetable oils, triglycerides or esters.

1
Dow Corning BY 25-337
2
Formulation 1 illustrates how the hardness of clear gels can be varied based on use levels of the SPE.
For additional variation, the dimethicone could be replaced by other silicones such as trisiloxane or
caprylyl methicone. The use of PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone (and) C13-16 isoparaffin (and) C10-13
isoparaffin in combination with a low level of water allows the creation of clear gels, where the viscosity
is impacted by the level of SPE emulsifier and water incorporated. Increasing the level of the SPE or
water increases the viscosity of the gel, whereas increasing the water level decreases clarity.

Formulation 1
Soft to Hard, Clear Gel Texture
Soft Clear Gel Hard Clear Gel
A % w/w % ww
PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone (and) C13-16 isoparaffin (and) 20 42
C10-13 isoparaffin (Dow Corning BY25-337)
B
Dimethicone (XIAMETER 200 Silicone Fluid) 77 55
C
Water 3 3

Procedure: Combine phases A and B with mixing. Add water slowly with mixing. Pass mixture through a high
shear mixer if needed.

In Formulation 2, the combination of the SPE as a water-in-silicone emulsifier with C30-45

alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane2 creates a facial cream that imparts a smooth feel to the
skin. The resin wax forms a velvety film and provides an additional structuring effect to the formulation.

Formulation 2
Gleam Dream - Facial Cream

A % w/w
PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone (and) C13-16 isoparaffin (and) C10-13 isoparaffin (Dow Corning 4
BY25-337)
Caprylyl methicone (Dow Corning FZ-3196) 10
Dimethicone (;,$0(7(5 200 6LOLFRQHFOXLGF6W 0
C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax) 6
B
Water 65
Sodium chloride 1
Glycerin 5
C
Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin 1

Procedure: Combine phase A ingredients and heat to 85C. In a separate vessel, combine phase B ingredients
and heat to 85C. Add phase B to phase A slowly, with increasing speed (400 to 1000 rpm), then mix at 2000 rpm
for 5 minutes. Cool to 35-40C with mixing. Add phase C with mixing. Homogenize using a high shear mixer
(Ultraturrax or Silverson type).

The impact of the PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone (and) C13-16 isoparaffin (and) C10-13 isoparaffin on
the texture of Formulation 2 was evaluated with a texture analyzer (TA.XTplus Texture Analyser, Stable

2
Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax
3
Micro Systems Ltd., Surrey, UK). Figure 1 shows the texture profile for this formulation. The force for
the probe to penetrate the product is similar the first and second time, which means the cream shows
good cohesiveness. The time for the probe to withdraw from the product is slightly higher than the time
to enter; this means the cream is adhesive but not sticky.

Force (Kg)
1
Force (kg)
1 22 33 44 55
0 .2 5
0,25

0,20
0 .2 0

0,15
0 .15

0,10
0 .10

0,05
0 .0 5

F
1
0,00
0 .0 0
0 10
10
20
20
30
30
40
40 50
50
Time (sec)
Time (Sec)
-0,05
-0.05

-0,10
-0.10

-0,15
-0.15

Figure 1. Texture profile for Formulation 2.

A rheometer (CSL 500 Carri-Med, TA Instruments, New Castle, DE, USA) was used to evaluate the
effect of shear on the viscosity of the facial cream in Formulation 2. Figure 2 illustrates the results. The
viscosity recovers well after an increase of shear.

Formulation 2
1000
Increase in shear rate
Decrease in shear rate
100
Viscosity (Pa.s)

10

0.1
0.01 0.1 1 10 100 1000

Shear Rate (1/s)

Figure 2. Rheological profile of Formulation 2.

At 1 day, the viscosity of Formulation 2 is 62 Pa.s at a shear rate of 1 s-1. At 21 days, the viscosity of the
same formulation is 61 Pa.s at a shear rate of 1 s-1. There is no significant loss of viscosity with time.

Formulation 3 demonstrates how PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone (and) C13-16 isoparaffin (and) C10-13
isoparaffin can be used to create an easy-to-spread, water-in-silicone foundation.

The nontacky afterfeel of this cream makeup results from formulating the SPE in the presence of
pigments.

4
Formulation 3
Water-in-Silicone Foundation

A % w/w
PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone (and) C13-16 isoparaffin (and) C10-13 isoparaffin (Dow Corning 10.00
BY25-337)
Dimethicone (and) trisiloxane (XIAMETER PMX-1184 Silicone Fluid) 22.00
Phenyl trimethicone (Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid) 5.00
Bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone (Dow Corning 5562 Carbinol Fluid) 5.00
Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend) 17.00
Squalane 3.00
B
Butylene glycol 3.00
Ethanol 5.00
Water 18.00
C
Titanium dioxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane 8.00
Iron oxides (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane 1.95
Mica (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane 2.05

Procedure: Combine ingredients of phase A. Pre-grind the pigments together. Add pigments to phase A with high
shear. In a separate vessel, combine ingredients of phase B. Add phase B to phase A at 1500 rpm. Continue
mixing for an additional 15 minutes.

As Formulations 4 demonstrates, PPG-19/19 dimethicone (and) C13-16 isoparaffin (and) C10-13

isoparaffin allows the formulation of water-in-silicone or water-in-oil sun creams that contain mineral
and organic sun filters. The resulting nongreasy sun cream leaves a smooth afterfeel on the skin.
Formulation 4
Water-in-Silicone Sun Cream

A % w/w
PPG-19/19 dimethicone (and) C13-16 isoparaffin (and) C10-13 isoparaffin (Dow Corning 4.0
BY25-337)
Caprylyl methicone (Dow Corning FZ-3196) 10.0
Dimethicone (XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid, 5 cSt) 10.0
C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax) 6.0
B
Water 55.5
Sodium chloride 1.0
Glycerin 5.0
C
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.5
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 4.0
Octocrylene 2.0
D
Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin 1

Procedure: Combine phase A ingredients and heat to 85C. In a separate vessel, combine phase B ingredients
and heat to 85C. Add phase B to phase A slowly, with increasing mixing speed (400-1000 rpm), then mix at 2000
rpm for 5 minutes. Cool mixture to 30C with mixing. Add phase C with mixing. Add phase D with mixing.
Homogenize using a high shear mixer (Ultraturrax or Silverson type).

5
Conclusions
Results of these studies show that stable formulations can be obtained using PEG/PPG-19/19
dimethicone diluted into an organic carrier as emulsifier. Additional benefits derived from the dilution
of the SPE into an organic carrier such as the current combination of C10-13 isoparaffin (and) C13-16
isoparaffin allow greater flexibility in the choice of the oil phase, from silicone oils to organic synthetic
oils, vegetable oils, triglycerides or esters.

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