SUBMITTED BY
AMRITA KHATRI
PURNIMA VATS
MR.ABHAY KUMAR
The real life experiences gathered through the period helps the pupil to learn practical aspects
and application of theoretical knowledge. It provides a huge positive impact on the student in
the spheres of interpersonal skills, exposure, group work and experimentation.
The Apparel Internship at SIYARAM'S SILK MILLS LTD. is evidently the experience,
which provided the spectrum of psychophysical knowledge, and experience.
1. To study the process and working of the individual departments in the organization.
4. Most importantly, to undertake the suitable projects for the company or assignments as per
the requirement of the industry.
In this report, we have tried our best to sum up our work and experience and the total work
process of the industry through observations and interactions.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Hard work, guidance, perseverance are the prerequisites for achieving success. Support from
an enlightening source helps to tread on the path to it. We would like to express our gratitude
towards the esteemed institution National Institute of Fashion Technology for being such an
enlightening source to us. My sincere thanks to our faculties for their valuable support, help
and guidance inspired us throughout the course of this project. We would like to thank
SIYARAM'S SILK MILLS LTD for selecting us as an internee, who is being inspiring and
helps to broaden the knowledge of Apparel manufacturing
We sincerely thank our Mr. Prasad, Vice-President and Mr. Kamal Sharma, GM, Siyaram's
Silk Mills Pvt Ltd., for their support and cooperation for inspiring us and providing all
possible knowledge and help for this project. The technical assistance, precious suggestions
and strong monitoring of various heads of the department, helped us in completing the work.
We would like to thank for all facilities and the support extended to us during the course of
the project.
We would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Sadashiv Patil (HR) and Mr. Lalit
Singh (HR) for supporting us.
This induction would not have been possible without the valuable inputs from Mr. Braj
Bandhu (Shirt Cutting), Mr. Moreshwar (Trouser Cutting), Mr. Nimesh Parmer and Mr.
Prashant (CAD), Mr. Pramod Panda (Shirt Stitching), Mr. Sunil Jha (Shirt Finishing) Mr.
Abdhul Ghani (Trouser stitching) and Mr. Amit Chaudhary (Trouser finishing) and Mr. Arun
(Trouser Q.C.). We thank them all for all their support.
Table of Contents
CAD DEPARTMENT............................................................................................................... 15
DISPATCH DEPARTMENT.................................................................................................... 50
INPUT
Receive the details regarding the fabric from the supplier.
Receive details regarding the percentage of fabric that needs to be checked.
Receive details from the PPC department regarding the outward.
Receive details regarding the quality level that needs to be followed
PROCESS
First of all, the purchase order is received by the store from the head office.
Then the fabric is received with which the transport challan is received which has
design number details in it
After the receiving of the fabric, job card is prepared.
After fabric has been received, the inspection report is studied and the quantity of
rolls to be inspected is determined.
Fabric is cut into pieces of 15-20 cm checked for shade variations, color fastness,
bowing, G.S.M, EPI & PPI, shrinkage test, CSV.
Fabric inspection is performed with 4 point inspection system.
Approved and rejected fabric is kept separately and brought into notice of the store in
charge and Quality Assurance.
Then G.R.N. is made based on which the barcode is printed out and placed on the
fabric roll.
Then barcode of fabric roll and of rack no. is scanned and placed accordingly.
Passed fabric to be issued to the respective unit and job works according to the
prescriptions given by PPC department
OUTPUT
Send Goods receive note to head office and sourcing department.
Take the swatch of every shade and perform all the fabric tests and prepare a
report.
Send this test report to the head office.
If some shade variation or center selvage variation (CSV) occurs then the CAD and
cutting room are informed to cut the pieces in a manner that the shade variation
doesnt occur within the garment.
Passed fabric to be issued to the respective unit and job works according to the
prescriptions given by PPC department
REPORTS GENERATED
The color fastness, shade variation, bowing and CSV report is generated.
Fabric checking report is also made which gives details about the actual receiving
quantity of meters.
The job card is made which has details of purchase order, supplier, and fabric type.
FABRIC INSPECTION
The inspection of the fabric rolls is necessary to check for any fabric defects
like foreign yarn, missing yarn, hole, shade bar, contamination etc.
At least one roll each from all colors of fabric of the same order are selected and the
above process for fabric inspection is followed.
The shade matching of the fabric is done on the shade matching table in two ways:
Lot to lot
Within a lot
Fabric inspection is performed with 4 point inspection system.
Fabric defects are assigned points values based on the following-
UP TO 3 INCH 1
OVER 9 INCH 4
OVER 1 INCH 4
Reject those fabric rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 square yards.
Points per 100 square yards = Total points scored in roll * 3600
Garments trims and accessories means all the items used in the garment except the main raw
material (Fabric). There are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments, which are
used as trims and accessories. A list of few important trims and accessories mentioned here.
1. Sewing thread
2. Buttons
12. Tag pin, used for handing the hangtag and price tag
18. Collar stand/ collar insert. It is used for proper neck, saves it stay around the neck
circumference
Ensuring the required quality and quantity of the Fabric and Trims store /Accessories is
made available to the Production department just in time. To optimize more cut quantity,
this will boost the production of the Orders and be converted to extra shipments with the
same efforts and more revenue to the company.
INPUT
Receive the style details, order sheet and sample indent from head office.
PROCESS
Style details and sample indent are studied and the needful sheets required are
prepared.
Costing is done according to the analyzed style details and sample indent.
Fabric and trim detail sheet are prepared and sent to respective concerned
departments.
Available stock details sheet is received from each fabric and store department.
All the necessary inputs to sampling stage (department) are provided.
Development sample is monitored.
Fit sample is monitored.
Size set sample development is monitored.
After development of size set sample, fabric and trims calculation is done.
Development of Pre-Production sample is monitored.
After approval of samples, an order file is received from head office.
Bill of materials (BOM) is generated by Tech-Design.
BOM sheet is sent to Store (for factory trims), Fabric, and head office (for branding
trims).
The follow up of in house trims is taken for sewing and packaging.
The follow up of available fabric and for the fabric that is to be purchased is take for
the given order with head office
The follow up of branded tags and stickers, and packaging material and trims is
taken with head office.
The in house process of all the material is monitored and approval is taken from the
head office for that material.
Verify the availability of trims and store and fabric with fabric department.
Order sheet is made and issued according to given style details and bill of material.
Organize a production information exchange meeting with cutting, I.E., quality and
production department.
According to the quantity of order received the PPC department decides the quantity
to be produced in factory (depending upon the capacity of factory) and the rest is
sent for job working.
OUTPUT
Generation of bill of material (BOM sheet) according to style details and order file
received from Head Office by Tech Design.
Issue of order sheet after verification of in-house trims with store and fabric with the
fabric department.
Planning and organizing pre-production meeting about the given order with
concerned departments.
Give approval and line details to cutting department.
Give approval of sewing and provide dispatch date for each sewing line.
FOLLOW UPS/REPORTS
Follow up with the fabric department, store, and head office for all the material
required for the order.
The dispatch quantity is verified against the planned quantity of cutting department.
The dispatch quantity is verified against planned quantity of production department.
Daily monitoring of Cut, Sew, Packing Plan and their updating/corrective actions are
taken.
Communication of production/order status Head Office (Line wise WIP report, Total
Output report, Fabric and Trim in-house report)
Daily review of Rejection
Daily Feeding report.
Dispatch Plan
CAD DEPARTMENT
SAMPLE APPROVAL
BASIC WORKFLOW
Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:
Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.
Graded measurement spec sheet.
Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form (open roll or folded form),
roll size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.
INPUT
Receive the details regarding to the pattern from sampling.
Receive fit details regarding to the pattern from sampling.
Receive PP details from sampling department that is sent by the Production Sourcing
Receive order sheet from PPD for marker making mass production of confirmed order.
Receive cut order plan from cutting department.
PROCESS
Digitize the patterns that are sent by sampling department.
Make marker of patterns provided by sampling and print plotter for the same and give it
to sampling department.
Grade the sizes according to size chart received from the HO.
Make the marker as efficient as possible according to the cut order plan given by the
cutting master
Sometimes they do make the pattern manually for one size and digitize that with the help
of digitizer board.
For checks, first they measure one block's width and length and feed to the software then
the marker is being made based on that dimension.
OUTPUT
Prepare marker according to cut order plan received by cutting department.
Plotter is printed and sent to cutting department.
Printed marker (plotter) is checked by cutting QC.
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CAD system is developed to assist rather than restrict the creative process. This system performs
repetitive and time-consuming tasks, freeing designers to focus on the creative development
process. This approach is unique and much more productive than techniques used in traditional
systems and the increased speed dramatically shortens the product development cycle, which in
turn, increases profitability.
The C.A.D. software used in Siyaram's is Richpeace Garment cad software Version-5.2 (model
no.) and pattern plotter is also of Richpeace model no-RP-MJ/2180
Mr. Prashant is channelizing this dept with the assistance and the surveillance of pattern master
Mr. Nimesh Parmer.
As per the survey, CAD is easier to use against the traditional practices of marker planning. It
simplifies, fastens and effectively improves the processes of pattern making, digitizing the
patterns, marker planning, alteration in patterns, grading etc. It results in greater productivity,
thus featuring itself as a lucrative offer to use rather than still relying on the traditional methods
making it affordable to install and implement too.
Here the CAD operators are well versed in pattern and marker development and have a fair
knowledge of styling effects in the apparels. CAD has played many vital roles in the production
unit. It reduces the dependence of people and initiates collaborative working between various
employees, supplier and HO is easier. It saves fabric, big time savior! It improves the first pass
quality product and reduces the throughput time for product assembly to a great extent.
Once the planning department sends job card to the C.A.D. department, the C.A.D. department
digitizes the sample pattern on digitizing machine and transfers these data on the computer from
where the estimation of the consumption of the fabric is done. Then the cut plan of the fabric is
made as per ratio. Then the marker plan for cutting the pieces of the fabrics is prepared and
ultimately the print out of that marker plan is taken out from the plotter machine and sent to the
cutting department for cutting. The markers developed by the Richpeace Garment cad software
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gives up to 85 percent efficiency or even more in some markers. Each marker contains certain
annotation like: -
Size
Buyer
Grain Line
Piece name
Style
Carrying out pattern engineering, Grading and Marker Planning manually is an incompetent and
cumbersome process. CAD helps in momentous time and labor savings by automating this
process.
CAD streamlines and improves efficiency of the product development team. This is done by
eliminating manual errors, building a knowledge base that can be used to create and re-create
patterns and markers and by enabling collaborative team working. Manual patterns at times get
used up, torn etc.
CAD uses apparel specific intuitive and user-friendly tools to engineer patterns, grade the base
pattern to various other sizes and to tightly pack these patterns to form the most efficient
markers. Figuring out the optimal layout of patterns to form tight markers needs the application
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of spatial visualization skills; this is best done on a computer monitor and not by going back and
forth on a table.
Hardware requirement: -
Digitizer board - Digitizer tablets are pressure-sensitive data input devices that allow
users to outline images with a device functioning just like a mouse. With a large active
area the user is able to digitize manually created images with great accuracy with the
ergonomic mouse. The notches, drill marks, etc. Are also easy to be marked on the
patterns with the aid of the digitizer. The digitized pattern can then be graded and
markers can further be developed using CAD.
Plotters - The Plotters are remarkably flexible, reliable, and easy to maneuver plotting
systems for the special purpose of computerized pattern making, grading and lay
planning. These machines bestow high quantity throughput and stable plotting accuracy.
Their high speed, ultra-width and easy maintenance make them the ideal choice for every
soft goods enterprise.
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SPREADING
CUTTING
TICKETING
PANEL CHECKING
SORTING
EMBROIDERY OR FUSING
(If required)
READY TO STITCH
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INPUT
Receive order sheet and all related details from planning about the given order.
Receive trim card.
Receive fabric and details regarding the cutting of the fabric.
PROCESS
Cutting requisition is sent to the fabric department for issue of fabric required to
complete the order.
Fabric is received from fabric store and its entry is made.
Cut order plan is made accordingly by master.
Pocketing and fusing from panels are cut separately.
Order sheet and cut order plan are reviewed.
Cut order plan is given to the layer man.
Cut order plan is given to the CAD department for the printing of plotter.
Laying of fabric is done by layer man according to given cut order plan.
Printed plotter is received from CAD department.
Fabric is cut according to the plotter.
Big parts are cut with straight knife and small parts are cut with band knife.
Components are checked for accuracy of notches.
100% inspection of big parts is done.
Ticketing, fusing and bundling are done according to line plan.
OUTPUT
Dispatch of cut parts in bundled form is done for sewing.
Details regarding the fabric used and saved.
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REPORTS GENERATED
Provide cut parts on time to maintain proper WIP in sewing line.
Maintained Reports and Formats
Cut order planning.
Lay Slip.
Daily cutting production and Issue report.
Style wise cutting Details against order.
WIP fabric stock in cutting.
SOLID CUTTING
SPREADING
The length of the lay depends upon the size ratio and quantity of that particular work order
whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric.
The cutting master according to size wise demand is making the lay plan. Two different work
orders were being studied and their lay plan was based on size set. For example: -
In work order no. 12154 there were different quantity for different sizes and different colors
as well.
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40/1-42/1: -2:85
38/1-44/1: -2:89
36/1: -1:29
48/1: -1:90
According to this spreading was started and the first lay was laid of size 38 and 44 because it
has the highest ratio i.e. 2:89.
The number of plies in the lay was decided according to the order quantity of size 38 i.e. 19
plies were laid of color 1, 26 of color 2, 23 of color and 17 of color 4.As it was set 38/1 and
44/1 it means that one piece of each size has to be cut out from one ply.
So total 85 plies were laid and order quantity of size 38 was being met and 17 extra pieces
were produced for size 44, which was not an issue because it was an in house order and this
can be easily managed.
So accordingly they would go for other combinations with ratio 2:85 and plies would be laid
according to size 40.
And then separate spreading was done for size 36 and 48 and 9 plies were laid for 36 and 5
plies were laid for 48.
The width of the fabric was 58 inches and the spreading mode was nap one way.
CUTTING
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines. The
machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the
reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are also added. For
smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting
machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the fabric as it is passed
across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.
BLOCK CUTTING
Stripes and checks due to requirements of matching so their spreading is done very
precisely. Often structures like stripes and checks are spread and cut in single number for
accuracy. In this the marker is made giving spaces between components to give
allowance of fabric which goes for recutting further in which the parts are aligned in to
get the mitering done properly. Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming
process. The wastage involved is also more due to cutting in two stages.
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BUNDLING
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled. The
size of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will
contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the
amount required by the production department when asked for.
SORTING
When the lay was being made the details of the size, style, color wise ply ratio, bundles
of cut panels, lay number are being registered manually by a particular worker. One small
panel of fabric is being tagged with the bundle which is being sorted to make it ready for
stitching which involves work order no., sleeve description, size, lay no., bundle no., no.
of pieces in that particular bundle.
EMBROIDERY
The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for
embroidery as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and
follow up these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent for embroidery, which
are recut after receiving back. They mark the region of embroidery with the pattern made
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up of cardboard and that whole region is framed by the worker inside the framing board
and then that framing board is tucked in the machine and the embroidery is being done.
FUSING
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated
from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept
between two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means
of the temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a
particular time. The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are
removed and re bundled.
Length of table- 6.5 meter
Width of table- 1.74 meter
Height of table- 0.90 meter
Table top type - wooden
Spreading mode face one way, nap one way
Fabric package type- roll and plastic
Light per square meter - 2
Fans per square meter 2
MACHINE DETAILS:-
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STITCHING DEPARTMENT
TRIMS ISSUE
CAPACITY PLANNING
PRESSING
STITCHING
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The dominant process in garment industry is sewing, still the best way of achieving strength and
flexibility in the seam itself as well as flexibility of manufacturing method. Much of the
application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the achievement of
satisfactorily sewn seams.
The objectives of sewing are the construction of seams, which combine the required standards of
appearance and performance with an appropriate level of economy in production.
The sewing floor of Siyaram's silk mills is basically divided into two floors(shirt and
trouser).There are 5 lines for shirt stitching and 2 lines for trouser stitching.. All the bundles are
ticketed. Once the entries of the respective bundles are made the bundles are moved in the line.
Each line has supervisor monitoring the production and trying to balance the line themselves.
The production of the lines individually is the responsibility of these supervisors. They have the
power to change the line layouts, announce overtimes for their lines in case of less production,
manage their operators, grant them leave of cancel their leave, input new machine or remove any
machine from the, etc. Hence, they are answerable to the higher authorities for the sole
production of their respective lines.
INPUT
Receive order sheet and all related details from planning about the order.
Receive line plan from PPC department.
Receive cut pieces in the form of bundles from the cutting department.
Receive trims from store.
Cut pieces are feed into the line
PROCESS
Run sample piece in line.
A sheet is being prepared which includes swatches of samples, thread number, remarks
etc.
This sheet is given to the line supervisors
Sample is being prepared in line.
Sample piece in line is reviewed.
A meeting is planned for new style.
Trims requisition is given to the store.
Loading of received cut pieces is done in line.
Operation Breakdown is made and analyzed.
Machine layout and man power is analyzed.
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Each line has 1 or sometimes 2 supervisors monitoring the production and trying to balance the
line themselves. The production of the lines is the individual responsibility of these supervisors.
OUTPUT
To meet production targets along with required quality standards.
Give stitched garment to Finishing department
SHIRT STITCHING
Shirt stitching was divided into five lines (A+B+C, D , E ,F ,G). Bundle system is followed in
Siyaram's silk mills for stitching. The shirts are being manufactured for two brands Oxemberg
and J.Hampstead. The different variations which are being manufactured here are:-
OPERATIONS INVOLVED
There are approx 30-33 operations involved in shirt stitching depending upon the style variation
The operations involved in stitching a formal J.Hampstead shirts are:-
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POCKET BONE MAKING:- In this operation the v shaped stitch is made on the lower
end of the pocket.
POCKET ATTACHING:- In this operations pocket is being attached to the front panel .
Dots are marked in the area where it has to be attached with the help of a pattern.it is
carried out with the help of SNLS.
MAIN LABEL ATTACH:- In this operation main label of brand is being attached to the
panel with the help of a SNLS.
BACK SHOULDER ATTACH:- In this operation yoke is attached to the back panel , back
panel is sandwiched between the two layers of yoke with the help of a folder attached
with SNLS.
BACK FRONT ATTACH:- In this operation shoulders of back panel and front panel are
attached by French seam with the help of a SNLS.
SLEEVE ATTACH:- In this operation sleeve is being attached to the main basic panels
with the help of a folder attached to a double needle lock stitch.
SLEEVE DAB:- In this operation top stitch is done on the armhole area with the help of a
SNLS.
SIDE STITCH WITH FUSING:- In this operation side seam is stitched and a fusing in
also inserted with the help of folder attached in feed of arm (FOA).
CUFF HEM:- In this operation cuff is being hem with edge finishing seam ,it is folded
and then stitched with the help of a SNLS.
CUFF MAKING:- In this operation two panels upper and lower panels of ba cuff are
joined and stitched with the help of a SNLS.
CUFF DAB:- In this operation top stitch is done on the cuff with the help of a SNLS.
CUFF ATTACH:- In this operation cuff is attached to the sleeve with the help of a SNLS.
COLLAR MAKING:- In this operation the two panel of collar are joined with the help of
a SNLS.
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COLLAR BAND HEM:- In this operation the lower part i.e the stand of the collar is being
hem with the help of a SNLS.
COLLAR TOP BAND JOINT:- In this operation two panels of band are joined with the
help of a SNLS.
COLLAR ATTACH:- In this operation band and collar are joined with the help of a SNLS.
BOTTOM HEM:-In this operation bottom of the shirt is being hem with the help of a
SNLS depending upon the style variation.
COLLAR BAND MAYA CUTTING:- In this operation extra fabric of collar band is cut
with the help of a over lock machine.
READY COLLAR MAYA CUTTING:- In this operation , extra part left after attaching the
band with collar is cut with the help of a over lock machine.
COLLAR BONE TAKI:- In this operation a plastic piece is stitched to the collar bone (a
T-shaped fabric piece) with the help of a SNLS.
COLLAR BONE ATTACH:- In this operation collar bone is attached to the collar with the
help of a SNLS.
COLLAR DAB:- In this operation top stitch is being done on the collar with the help of a
SNLS.
FRENCH PLACKET PATTITAKI:- In this operation two stitches are done on the French
placket at upper and lower part with the help of a SNLS.
COLLAR NECK STITCH:- In this operation collar band with collar is attached to the
neckline with the help of a SNLS.
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MACHINE DETAILS:-
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MANPOWER DETAILS :-
LINE A+B+C D E F G
WORKERS 84 32 27 29 28
QUALITY 4 11 1 1 2
CHECKERS
SUPERVISORS 6 2 1 1 3
CHECKERS 10 4 1 2 4
HELPERS 32 11 9 8 9
TROUSER STITCHING
There are two lines for trouser stitching and in each line three lines are there, one for front panel,
one for back panel and one for assembly. The operations involved in trouser stitching are:-
OPERATIONS INVOLVED
FRONT SMALL PARTS O/L:- In this all the small parts used in stitching front panel are
over locked .e.g.-jet piece , pocket bag , fly , flap etc. This operation is being carried on 3
threads over lock.
FOCK O/L:- In this operation fock is being over locked with the help of a 3 thread over
lock.
LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT POCKET JATI ATTACH:-In this operation jet piece is being
attached to the pocket bag of both the sides with the help of a SNLS.
LEFT AND RIGHT POCKET THAILA MAKING:-In this process the two panels of pocket
bag are being attached with the help of a SNLS.
LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT POCKET KACHCHA: - In this operation flap is being
attached inside the pocket with the help of a SNLS. in this operation a specified length is
marked on the flap and then slashed on the upper and lower part ,folded , turned and then
stitched.
LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT POCKET OVER LOCK:- In this operation pocket bag is
being over locked by a 5 thread over lock machine
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LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT POCKET DAB:-In this operation top stitch is being applied
on the pocket with the help of a SNLS.
LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT POCKET TAKI:- In this operation a small stitch(taki) is
added on the three places to make the pocket stick to the panel with the help of a SNLS.
FRONT SINGLE FLY ATTACH @ LEFT FRONT PANEL:-In this operation fly is being
stitched to the left front panel with the help of a SNLS.
DOUBLE FLY ZIPPER ATTACH @ RIGHT PANEL FRONT:-In this operation zipper is
being attached to the right panel of the front side with the help of a SNLS.
CROTCH ATTACH ZIPPER FINISH:-in this operation crotch of both the left and right
panel is joined and zipper is being finished with the help of a SNLS.
SIZE LABEL ATTACH: - In this operation size label attached to the front panel of the
trouser with the help of SNLS.
FRONT PANEL O/L:- In this operation side seam and inseam of front panel is being over
locked with the help of a 3 thread over lock.
BACK AND SMALL PARTS O/L:- In this operation small parts of back panel are over
locked with the help of a 3 thread over locked. Back panel generally don't have many
small parts, so they are often over locked in the trouser cutting department with the help
of a automatic serging machine.
BACK POCKET JATI ATTACH:-In this operation jet piece is being attached to the back
pocket bag with the help of a automatic welting machine.
BACK DART MAKING:- In this operation back dart is being stitched with the help of a
automatic machine.
BACK POCKET CHATKATAKI AND BONE FINISH : In this operation pocket is being
finished , two stitches are tuck at the two ends of pocket and then turned upside either
single lip or double lip and got completed and then pressed to enhance its look.
BACK POCKET O/L:- In this operation back pocket bag is over locked with the help of a
5 thread over lock.
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BACK POCKET MAIN LABEL ATTACH:-In this operation label is attached to the back
pocket with the help of SNLS.
D BARTECK :- In this operation a D shaped Barteck is made on the back pocket with the
help of a Barteck machine.
BELT EXTENSION MAKING:-In this operation belt extension is made with the help of a
pattern and attached to the main waist band with the help of a SNLS.
BELT CANVAS STITCH:-In this operation canvas fusing is stitched to the waist band
with the help of a SNLS.
GRIPPER ATTACH:- In this operation gripper is attached to the waist band with the help
of a SNLS.
LOOP ATTACH: - In this operation loop is attached to the trouser's waist line with the
help of a SNLS. 8 loops are attached to a single trouser.
HOOK ATTACH: - In this operation hook and eye is being attached to the waist band
with the help of a special machine (hook attaching).
WASH CARE AND ATHLETE LABEL: - In this operation these two label are being
attached with the help of a SNLS.
KAJ MAKING: - In this operation button hole is made on 4 places which include belt , fly
and two pocket with the help of a button hole machine.
BELT EXTENSION FINISH AND ATTACH: - In this operation waist band (belt) is being
attached to the trouser and then the extended part is finished with the help of a SNLS.
DOUBLE FLY FINISH AND FOCK ATTACH:- Fock is attached with the help of a
SNLS.
WATCH POCKET MAKING:-in this operation watch pocket is being made with the help
of a SNLS.
WATCH POCKET ATTACH AND FINISH:- in this operation watch pocket is being
attached to the waist band and finished with the help of a SNLS.
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FLY J STITCH:- in this operation a J shape top stitch is made on the fly with the help of
a pattern and SNLS.
BACK RISE:-in this operation the upper portion(hip area) are joined with the help of a
SNLS .
FLY LABEL:-in this operation label is attached to the fly with the help of a SNLS.
HANGER LOOP ATTACH:-in this operation hanger loop is attached to the trouser with
the help of a SNLS.
BELT DOWN STITCH:-in this operation two parts of belt are being stitched with the help
of a SNLS.
BARTECK:- in this operation Barteck is stitched on 24 places on the trouser with the help
of a Barteck machine.
BUTTON ATTACH:- in this operation button is attached to trouser with the help of a
buttoning machine . 5 buttons are attached to a single trouser.
BOTTOM O/L: in this operation bottom of a trouser is over locked with the help of a over
lock machine.
SPOTTAKI:- in this operation tuck is made on the trouser with the help of spot taki
machine. spottaki is made at 9 places on the trouser.
CHECKING
During these operations checking is done at four points and then pressing is done then again
checking and then packing is done. there are basically four type of checking is done in line ,
they are :-
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Alignment of panels
Zipper
Pattern for pocket opening
Crotch alignment and finish (so that it would not create any problem during back rise
and j stitch
Pocket bag stitch
All over lock applied
Size label is attached correctly or not according to the stickering (sticker that has been
stacked to the panel since cutting)
Loop (whether the numbers of loops are attached according to the size of trouser).
Belt to belt (are hooks and eyes are placed correctly in left and right panels).
Stitch
Side seam stitch for further pressing
Belt to belt at back for further stitching during back rise finish.
This checking is done at the end point, where the trouser is almost completed i.e. all the
sewing operations are done , the points checked during this checking are :-
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MACHINE DETAILS:-
MANPOWER DETAILS:-
1. LINE SUPERVISOR 5
2. WRITER 1
4. HELPER 52
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5. CHECKER 14
6. TAILOR 103
7. TRAINEE TAILOR 13
8. QUALITY AUDITOR 1
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FINISHING DEPARTMENT
BASIC WORKFLOW
Firstly the merchandiser sends the following details to the finishing room:
Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the trims details.
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SEWN GARMENTS
RECEIVED IN FINISHING
SECTION
IRONING OR PRESSING
INSPECTION
FOLDING
BOX PACKING
READY TO DISPATCH
OPERATIONS INVOLVED
BUTTON STITCH: -In his process button is attached to the shirts placket. Some casual
styles require washing, so in that case washing is done prior to button attaching. This
operation is done with the help of a button-attaching machine.
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BUTTONHOLE: - In this process buttonholing is done on the other panel of shirt placket
with the help of a buttonholing machine.
FINAL CHECKING:-In this process checking is done and loose and extra threads are cut
and if any defect is found then it is send for alteration.
Basically there are three types of defects found at this stage: -
Stain: -stains are altered with the help of a stain-removing machine or with the
help of petrol and then dried.
Stitching defect: - it includes any type of defects due to improper stitching, like
skipped stitch, puckering, seam grinning etc. These defects are altered with the
help of SNLS (ripping and then restitching.)
Button defect: - These defects include defects in button tucking or defected or
wrong placement of buttons.
AUDITING: - In this process output from thread cutting are checked once again by two
auditors. There are 35 tables for thread cutting and auditing is done on hourly basis (one
garment from each table.
THREAD SUCKING:-In this process garment is feed into a machine for removal of
thread (which is left during thread cutting).
PRESSING:-In this process garment is pressed. The types of pressing done are: -
FOLDING:-In this process garments are pulled down from the hangers and folded
according to the pattern given to the people.
CHECKING: - After folding checking is done to ensure proper placement of tags and
turns in folds.
SORTING AND TAGGING: - In this process sorting is done on size basis and then
packed in poly bags.
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BOX PACKAGING:-In this process packed items are placed in boxes of their respective
brands and then put into trolley to move to dispatch unit.
MANPOWER DETAILS: -
OPERATIONS INVOLVED
BUTTON STITCH: -In his process button is attached to the back pockets. Some casual
styles require washing, so in that case washing is done prior to button attaching.
BUTTONHOLE: - In this process buttonholing is done on the back panel (pocket)with the
help of a buttonholing machine.
CHECKING:-In this process checking is done and loose and extra threads are cut and if
any defect is found then it is send for alteration.
The type of checking done in trouser finishing are:-
Table checking:-
Thread cutting
Face side and wrong side
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Stain: -stains are altered with the help of petrol and then dried.
Stitching defect: - It includes any type of defects due to improper stitching, like
skipped stitch, puckering, seam grinning etc. These defects are altered with the help
of SNLS (ripping and then restitching.)
Button defect: - These defects include defects in button tucking or defected or wrong
placement of buttons, hooks or eye.
THREAD SUCKING:-In this process garment is feed into a machine for removal of
thread (which is left during thread cutting).
PRESSING:-In this process garment is pressed. The types of pressing done here are:-
Side seam pressing:- In this side seam of the trouser is being pressed for proper
aesthetic as well as functional purpose.
Topper pressing:- In this only the upper portion of the back panel (hip area) is being
pressed. This pressing is done after final checking audit.
Leg pressing:- In this the lower portion of the trouser is being pressed. This pressing
is done after final checking.
Super creasing:- it is a special type of pressing which is done on buyer's demand.
FOLDING:-In this process garments are pulled down from the hangers and folded
according to the pattern given to the people, or in some garment hanger packing is also
done.
SORTING AND TAGGING: - In this process sorting is done on size basis and then
packed in poly bags.
BOX PACKAGING:-In this process packed items are placed in boxes of their respective
brands and then put into trolley to move to dispatch unit.
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MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
INTRODUCTION
In the apparel industry, machine maintenance department is one that works silently. They dont
get recognized much for their work. In the organized garment factories, maintenance people
work closely with Industrial Engineering department when it comes for shop floor machine
maintenance. In many factories management does not concern about their performance. So
machine mechanics just do their job to keep machine running and always do breakdown
maintenance.
A factory can gain substantial benefit by setting up defined work responsibility and making list
of activities to be done by maintenance department other than just repairing machines when it
breakdown.
The maintenance activities can be broadly classified into two major categories, such as machine
breakdown maintenance and preventive maintenance. Main reasons of frequent machine
breakdown in shop floor include lack of maintenance, or use of spare parts of substandard quality
or faculty operations. Breakdown maintenance is always undesirable because breakdown causes
loss of production, man-hours and revenue. Machine breakdown disturbs the production of
particular operations and subsequent operations by delaying feeding.
Garment industries use highly specialized machines and equipment on a daily basis, they
face the daunting task of continually managing these assets to ensure operations run
smoothly.
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MAINTENANCE IN SIYARAMS
Preventive Maintenance:-It is being practiced in Siyarams. It is based upon the principle
that prevention is better than cure.
Weekly Maintenance
If compressed air is used, make sure the air system is regulated properly and has
humidity dryers, filters and lubricator in the airlines.
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Monthly Maintenance
Cutting: -
Stitching: -
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Embroidery: -
Fusing: -
Boiler: -
Diesel Generator: -
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Compressor: -
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DISPATCH DEPARTMENT
BASIC WORKFLOW
Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:
Approved spec sheet containing all the size ratio details.
Report giving the information about the manufacturer place (unit or jobber)
Detailed sheet about the item and packaging details.
ORDER RECEIVING
ORDER PUNCHING
GOODS INWARD
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G.R.N.
DELIVERY ORDER
PICKING
RAISING CHALLAN
FINAL PACKING
BILLING
SHIPMENT BOOKED BY
TRANSPORT
FINAL DISPATCH
INPUT
Receive the details from the finishing section.
Receive size details regarding the sorting and racking of the items.
Receive the items from the finishing department.
Receive information about the billing of the order.
PROCESS
First of all according to the season receive the order details and then receive the order.
Punching of the order is being done and then the goods are in warded.
The sorting of goods according to size is being done and they are racked.
At the time of final packing, the goods are being taken out from the rack and scanned so
that to make sure they are according to the required quantity and the G.R.N. is made.
The delivery order is made according to which the picklist is made to generate the
challan.
After which the final packing is being done and then at the time of dispatch the bill is
generated and goods are being sent away.
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The AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) is the maximum percent defective that for the purpose of
sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average. In inspection how much
percentage of defective pieces will be accepted, depends on acceptable quality level The AQL
level varies process to process, product to product and even buyer to buyer. Sample size Code
letter: This code is indicative a range of batch size. (Code 'G' means your lot size range is from
151 pieces to 280 pieces. Sample size: It means that how many pieces will be picked up for
inspection from the total offered pieces (Batch). Ac (Accepted): The number in this column
denotes that if the inspector finds up to that much defective pieces the shipment will be accepted
by buyer. Re (Rejected): On the other hand number in this column denotes that if the inspector
finds that much defective pieces or more than the listed number, the shipment will be rejected (or
asked to the manufacturer for 100% inspection and re-offer for final inspection) by buyer.
Example: Suppose you have been offered a shipment of 1000 pieces for inspection. Select the
range from table, it is 501-1200. Now from table you have to select number of sample you are
going to actually inspect. According the above table you will select 80 pieces out of 1000 pieces.
Now assume that you are inspecting at 2.5 AQL. So, after inspecting all 80 pieces if you find 5
or less than 5 defective pieces will accept the shipment. And if you find 6 or more than 6
defective pieces in 80 samples you will reject that shipment. Lot or Batch size Size Code Sample
Size 28 A 9 15 B 2 3 Acceptable Quality level 2.5 4.0 6.5
Button holes Button/Button Sewing Waistband Belt Loops Front and back 4. Seams not back
stitched or bar tacked when specified 5. Irregular or uneven top stitching 6. Seam grin-through,
seam slippage 7. Pinching or any part of product caught in seam or stitches 8. Any exposed drill
holes 9. Length of legs off by more than 3/8 inch 10. Stitch count not conforming to
specifications 11. Stitch or seam type not conforming to specifications 12. Label is not correctly
attached, position and layout 13. Sewn on design attached at incorrect place and sewn not
according to specs 14. Double needle stitch on crotch seam is missing 15. Use of monofilament
thread, other seams than where specified 1. Size is not within specs 2. Ragged edges 3. Uncut
button hole 4. Out of alignment or improper button spacing 5. Stitch depth too narrow or wide 1.
Button not securely attached 2. Butler-missing 3. Broken or damaged button 4. Out of alignment
or improper spacing 5. Button not matches to specs 6. Lack of support materials on fragile fabric
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7. Buttons that crack, chip, discolor, rust, bleed, melt or otherwise cause consumer dissatisfaction
when care label is followed 1. Uneven in width 2. Excessive fullness, puckering or twisting 3.
Closure misaligned 4. Belt loops are crooked 1. Not fully secure 2. Extend above waistband 3.
Missing tacks 4. Color shade not to specs 5. Thread shade not to specs 6. Raw edges showing 1.
Uneven at bottom hem 2. Under facing showing 3. Pockets conspicuously uneven 4. Darts
uneven in length 5. Darts poorly shaped 6. Spot shirring not even right and left sides
Garment inspection procedures : During the course of garment production, i.e right from cutting
to final dispatch, Oxemberg QAD team will conduct various inspections as follows: 1. Inline/mid
inspection : This will be carried out during the production of garment in order to carry out this
inspection effectively following information is a must. A) Updated W/O sheet B) Style
approved, saple approved by the merchandiser C) Fabric, trims and accessories cards rectified by
the merchandiser. D) Approved measurement specificationHems Pockets Zippers Gripper Fly
area Labels 1. Twisted, roped, puckered, pleated, or excessively visible from exterior 2. Uneven
in width 3. Uneven length of product unless specified 1. Not uniform in size and shape 2.
Misaligned horizontally or vertically 3. Crooked 4. Missing bar tack, back tack or rivet where
specified 5. Bar tack or rivet not as specified 6. Sewn-in pleats or puckers 1. Any malfunction in
operation 2. Tape does not match color specs 3. Wavy zipper 4. Exposed zipper that distracts
from product's appearance 5. Irregular or uneven stitching on zipper 6. Crooked or uneven zipper
7. Bar tack missing or incorrectly located at bottom or base of zipper 1. Misaligned 2. Missing or
incorrect 3. Defective in operation 1. Width is not uniform 2. Bottom stopper does not securely
clinched 3. Top of zipper not caught in band 4. Either side of fly extends past other side by
excessive amount. 1. Labels are not correct, text and/or layout 2. Located at incorrect location 3.
Insecurely attached to the garment
Random final audit or inspection: this will be carried out when goods are in the pressing and
packing till its completion. Oxemberg QAD team will carry out random audit at AQL 4 inorder
to make this audit a truly effective tool, since it is the last check point before dispatch, following
information is essential. A) All the line detail information mentioned there in plus. B) Washed
approved samples ( in case of washed order). C) Packing list wherever applicable
https://www.slideshare.net/karthikamdev/garment-manufacturing-process-from-fabric-to-poduct
https://www.slideshare.net/rajeevsharan/order-specification-sheet
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The format used for displaying as well as recording audit report. The format is very simple to use
and to understand. The format is printed on a slightly thick A4 sheet and hanged on the sewing
machine. In this system quality auditor visit operators workplace 4 times in a day (considering 8
hours shift day) and inspects stitched garments and fill circles with color according to the
inspection result. In the initial stage when this format had been introduced by JC Penny for their
supplier, they instructed to inspect 7 pieces from the stitch garments and if auditor found any
defective piece respective circle to be filled by RED color. If red color is marked on the
inspection sheet, all stitched pieces must be checked by an auditor. And operator needs to be
explained about the quality expected from him/her and how to get that expected quality. In some
case, operators need more practice to get right quality pieces.
Factory QAs later modified sample size, the rating criteria and added yellow color keeping
purpose right. The sample size is reduced as a quality auditor does not get 7 pieces at a time of
inspection at most of the workstations. This happens due to low work in process (WIP) in
between workstation.
Standard Sample Size: 5 pieces. Garment Inspection to be done after every two hours.
Inline checking system will alert operators in concentrating their job. If less number of defective
seam is made, less the time will be lost in repairing it. It also helps in other way. May be at the
start of the style an operator do not understand the specification, an interaction with quality
inspector will make an operator clear about the quality requirement. Traffic Light System is
designed to flag the problem at source and allow immediate corrective action rather than
allowing all potentially defective products to continue to be manufactured.
Like other quality inspection tools, traffic light inspection system is widely used in garment
quality inspection. This system is used to stop producing defect at source. Traffic light system is
more effective in controlling shop floor quality than other quality tools because of its visual
communication. At the same time it measure operators performance level in quality. No
operators like be presented themselves as lower quality makers.
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Traffic light quality system works in a similar fashion the transportation traffic light system
works. Like the transportation system it includes three quality signal cards: green, yellow and
red. In the production line each worker is characterized by a card and the card is being hanged
above his/her head. Green is for good quality, yellow is for warning condition and red stands for
stopping the production due to quality fault. Five piece quality checking system has been
implemented and the quality controllers were instructed to check the quality status every two
hours interval and collect data of each worker on a regular basis. When a worker produces
quality product with zero defect, he or she is characterized by a green card. A worker who does a
single fault out of the checked seven pieces, he or she is warned by a yellow card that indicates
that he or she should be more careful about quality for the next time. But when any worker who
does multiple faults, a red card is hanged above his or her head that indicates that this worker is
producing several faults that should be corrected and an extra care should be taken to this
worker. The extra care may be in a way that he or she should be trained for that operation or if
there have any problem, could be solved. This is not a way of pushing the workers but to
motivate them so that they are willing to do the quality at the first time they make it. Based on
the performance the workers and the production lines are scored by a common scoring system.
The system offers that, the best worker and the best line that scored highest should be honored by
the management and some incentive should be given to them for their outstanding performance.
The system also offers that, they should also be honored by being put a best quality badge for the
whole month so that they could feel proud and all other workers could inspire to achieve the
highest quality level.
How it works?
Study the present alteration rate and method to rectify the alterations
Discuss with higher management and suggest traffic light
Prepare the traffic light formats
Hang the format on each machine of the operator
Continue the system for one month
Study the alteration rate with implementation of traffic light system
METHODOLOGY
As the project includes implementations of systems like 5S and Traffic light.
The processes which will be followed are mentioned step wise.
PROCEDURE
The basic required activities and their procedure to complete this project are as
follows:
Study the present alteration rate and method to rectify the alterations
Discuss with higher management and suggest traffic light
Prepare the traffic light formats
Hang the format on each machine of the operator
Continue the system for one month
Study the alteration rate with implementation of traffic light system.
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