beauty either. All that seems certain is its derivation from the field of
sexual feeling. The love of beauty seems a perfect example of an im-
pulse inhibited in its aim. Beauty and attraction are originally attri-
butes of the sexual object.
Sigmund Freud, Civilization and its Discontents.
For beauty is nothing but the beginning of terror, which we are still
just able to endure,
and we are so awed because it serenely disdains to annihilate us.
First Duino Elegies
Rainer Maria Rilke
How can ugliness and disharmony, which are the content of tragic
myth, inspire an esthetic delight?
Friedrich Nietzsche, The Birth of Tragedy
Submissions
robertswhite@comcast.net
mailto:Robertswhite@comcast.net
Subscriptions
robertswhite@comcast.net
mailto:Robertswhite@comcast.net
Associate
Associate Editor
Editor ArnoldRichards
Arnold Richards
PoetryConsultant
Poetry ConsultantIrene
IreneWillis
Willis
Arts
Arts Consultant
Consultant Danielle
Danielle Knafo
Knafo
Technology
TechnologyConsultant
ConsultantBonnie
BonnieLidowirtz
Litowitz
200
100
0
1 2
Circulation 150
Table of Contents
5
From the Editor
7-9
Wonderful Surprises for Psychoanalysts
in Mexico City for IPA Congress
11-16
Frida Kahlo: Mother and Mirror
18-25
Frida Kahlo and Freud: Moses and
Monotheism
28-37
The Fabulous Folk Arts of Oaxaca,
Mexico: An Introduction
39-40
Martin Espada: Poetry
42-43
Contributors
10, 17, 26, 38
Photography
41, 43, 44, 45
Juan Rulfo
We are excited to present the arts and culture of 1970 and was elected to the Mexican Academy
Mexico, in honor of the 47th Congress of the In- of Language in 1980. In 1985 he received the
ternational Psychoanalytic Association, to be held Premio Cervantes (Cervantes Prize) from Spain
in Mexico City, August 3-6, 2011. in recognition of his accomplishments.
His photographs, shot mostly during the 1940s
You will find scattered through this issue the and 50s are exclusively in black-and-white, made
photographs of Juan Rulfo (1917-1986). He was by 6x6 cm negatives. He travelled throughout
born in Jalisico, Mexico. His father was killed Mexico among the common people. His goal
when he was 6 and his mother died when he was to present what he encountered, and noth-
was 10. He was raised by his paternal grand- ing more-groups of farmers in prayer, women
parents. He came from a family of landowners at market, men on horseback, and views from
who were ruined by the Mexican Revolution. He mountainous paths. Few of his photographs
attended secondary school and graduated as a were published in his lifetime. He had an exhibi-
bookkeeper. He attended the National Military tion in Guadalajara in 1960, but it was not until
Academy briefly and took classes at the Univer- 1980, when his photographs were shown during
sidad Nacional Autnoma de Mxico. He worked his Homage in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, that
as a immigration officer and a wholesale travel- his fame increased
ing sales agent, for which he traveled widely in The photographs presented here are taken from
southern Mexico. From the early 1960s Rulfo the book, Inframundo, El Mexico by Juan Rulfo,
was a staff member and later the director of the Ediciones del Norte, 1980.
editorial department of National Institute for In- The latest large-format publication about Rulfos
digenous Studies. He is one of Latin Americas photographs will appear in 2011 and bears the
most esteemed authors. His reputation rests on title of 100 photographs of Juan Rulfo .
2 books. , a collection of short stories (1953),
centered around life in rural Mexico around the
time of the Mexican Revolution and the Cristero
Rebellion. Pedro Pramo (1955) featured a ghost
town populated by spectral figures. This novel
represents the beginning of magical realism and
a direct inspiration to Gabriel Garca Mrquez.
He won Mexicos National Prize for Literature in
Wonderful Surprises for Psychoanalysts in Mexico City for IPA Congress
Mexico City is: enormous, modern, varied, elegant, clean, and complex. It is not frightening. It has
an economic vitality that American cities are still searching for in year three of the recession. (Visit-
ing last December, I was amazed to see many construction projects were in high gear, while home in
Chicago they sit fallow). It is home to a vibrant 60 year old psychoanalytic community, which, hav-
ing discovered a way to engage young people straight out of college in a psychoanalytic career, just
might have the best model for ensuring the future of our profession. Our psychoanalytic colleagues in
Mexico are very proud of their tradition of learning, teaching and researching psychoanalysis, and are
eager to welcome the international psychoanalytic community. And welcoming they are.
Mexico City is the home of some 150 museums and vast amounts of art
in municipal buildings. There is conscious attention to creating a sense of
community, even in so vast a metropolis. The largest avenue to pedestrian
and bicycle traffic every Sunday morning.
Here are some surprises: The altitude is 7200 feet. Keeping yourself
hydrated is essential. The tequila is like nothing youve had in your mar-
garitas at home. The weather is fairly perfect, primarily because of the alti-
tude. In December it was 74 and sunny every day. In August
the average temperature is74! Though a bit more humid
than in the winter. It rains at the end of every day in a short
dense shower but otherwise it is sunny. Dinners go on until
midnight. Traveling to Mexico City is, from many parts of the
US, not at all taxing. The city is on central time. Direct flights
from big US cities may take only 3 1/2 hours (Chicago, LA) or 5 hours New York). The Benito Juarez
airport is close to the central city. So even a three day trip is reasonable and not tiring. But you will
want more time than that.
In a quick visit last year, just 3 days, I could only get a taste of the things I wanted to see. The Pala-
cio de Bellas Artes has magnificent murals from the 1930s to the 1950s by Orozco, Rivera, Tamayo
and Siqueiros. If you are not acquainted with
the Mexican muralists you will be amazed by
this work. If you are acquainted with this mod-
ernist movement, it is the chance of a lifetime
to see the murals in situ. With a Mexican col-
league I visited the Frida Kahlo home and mu-
seum, La Casa Azul. I worried that with all the
Frida Kahlo kitsch in the US it would be disap-
pointing but it was moving and magnificent.
The Museo de Arte Popular houses incredible
folk art and craft exhibitsthe finest speci-
mens of traditional Mexican crafts piatas,
alebrijes (fantastical creatures), embroidery,
pottery and catrina figures posed in haunting
and humorous Dia del Muerte tableaux.
Teotihuacan deserves special mention. This enormous ruin was once the largest city in
pre-Columbian America. Its pyramids rival any in the world for size and splendor. And it
is only one hour from the city itself.
The IPA leadership asked me to travel to Mexico in
December 2010 to report back on the security situ-
ation. Many in the U.S. are very frightened about
travel to Mexico. News of the terrible ongoing drug
wars can make the country seem quite terrifying.
But it is important to understand that the drug cartel
violence is occurring in areas far from Mexico City,
primarily the border areas between Mexico and the
US and, sadly, some of the resort areas Americans
are familiar with. Also, the vast majority of the vic-
tims have been directly involved in the war on the
criminal cartels, or are members of gangs who are
killed during internecine conflict. While this is tragic
and gruesome, it does not affect the safety of travel
to and within Mexico City. In fact, the capital city
has experienced a decrease in crime over the last decade.
I have to say I felt entirely safe during my visit in the areas of the city where the Congress will take
place and where the museums and restaurants and shops are located. The officials in the capital city
are extremely security conscious, and are especially intent on making sure tourists are safetheir
livelihood and honor depends on it. They have installed a state of the art video monitoring system,
and proudly report events with millions of participants that had no incidents of crime.
If you have never been to an international psychoanalytic meeting, this is the time to try it. Cost, con-
venience and fantastic sightseeing are powerful draws. There are some invaluable intangible factors
too. Convening with colleagues from all over the world is a tremendously moving and empowering
experience. I found that the isolation and uncertainty of the psychoanalytic profession melted away
in the midst of milling colleagues speaking Italian, Spanish, German, Russian, etc. Attendees from
new societies in Eastern Europe, the Middle East and Asia provide concrete evidence that the profes-
sion is growing. Learning that organized psychoanalysis in Mexico is 60 years old says something
profound about the depth of the roots of our field. Learning that there are new ideasboth theoretical
and practicalthat just never crossed your path is tremendously invigorating.
FRIDA KAHLO: MOTHER AND MIRROR
Danielle Knafo, Ph.D.
Frida Kahlo (1907-1954), known also simply as Frida, recently attained a degree of popularity and
public fascination usually reserved for cult figures. For years after her death, she was primarily known
in her native Mexico, and chiefly as the wife of internationally acclaimed muralist and painter, Diego
Rivera. Over the last 20 years, Frida has begun to be hailed as a feminist icon and perhaps the most
talented of all Latin American artists. One conclusion clearly emerges from discussions of Fridas ce-
lebrityhood: her star quality and larger-than-life status are due not only to her art but also to the whole
of her life and personality.
Frida began painting at the age of 18 following her near-fatal accident. Even prior to her accident,
however, she struggled with polio since the age of six, a malady for which she missed a year of
school and was taunted, teased, and called pato de pago (peg leg). The bus accident she suffered at
eighteen added a host of extra problems. Throughout her life, Frida was hung upside down, naked,
and obliged to wear plaster and steel casts and corsets to strengthen her spinal column, required to
undergo over 30 operations, and was bedridden and incapacitated over long periods.
The Mirror
It is widely accepted that Fridas art largely self-portraits that depict a resplendent mask-
like faceallowed her to deal concretely with her pain (both physical and psychic) while
feeding her narcissism, which had been injured along with her body (1). She actually had
an easel mounted onto her bed to allow her to paint while lying flat. It is true that she seri-
ously turned to painting only following her accident at the age of 18, yet Frida was coping
with early childhood circumstances that predisposed her to a particular form of artistic
expression with its strong emphasis on self- portraiture (2). Her mother, Mathilde Caldern, a devout
Catholic Spanish-Indian, remained unavailable to Frida as an infant. Apparently a histrionic personal-
ity, Fridas mother suffered from pseudoseizures that were curious replicas of her husbands authentic
epileptic fits. The infant Frida was not breastfed by her mother; instead, she was suckled by an Indian
wet nurse and cared for by her older sisters.
Known for her unusual, even obsessional, relationship with mirrors and preoccupation with her ap-
pearance, Frida surrounded herself with mirrors of all sizes, placing them at varying angles from her
bed (where she spent much of her time), installing an enormous one facing down at her from the
underside of her canopy bed. She thus assured repeated encounters with her own reflection and the
concrete assurance of her existencea crucial need for Frida whose physical problems required that
she repeatedly overcome new challenges.
To cope with her loneliness and feelings of abandonment, resulting from the prolonged bed rests
imposed on her, Frida wrote numerous letters imploring her friends and lovers to visit her and, more
importantly, not forget her. Haunted by the isolation foisted upon her by chronic pain and the sad
solitude left in the wake of her husbands betrayals, the answers to her pleas were insufficient for her
needs and so she transformed her canvas into a mirror in which she reflected a world of exquisite
tensions, stark beauty stoic strength, insidious will, and layered self-definitions. Incessantly draw-
ing self-portraits, Frida seemed to be painfully striving to obtain what she did not receive from her
mothers eyes: confirmation to help delineate a firm and cohesive sense of self while creating another
world, one imagined to heal her physical and psychic wounds, yet radiant in its depictions of pain,
longing, and transformation.
For Frida, the self-portrait represented an apt, almost self-evident, means by which she was able to
act as a mirror to herself, reflecting her need for self- definition while simultaneously attempting to
achieve it. It is clear, therefore, that through her art Frida succeeded in repeating the mother-infant
dyad with its mutual gazing reciprocity. Creating her double in her self-portraits, she became her own
mirror. At least in her art, Frida reached a state of forgiveness and reconciliation with her mother for
she guaranteed not only that her image would live onto immortality, but that it would forever be mir-
rored.
The Double
The way Frida replaced her mother by becoming the mirror she wished she had is best illustrated in
The Two Fridas (1939), her largest painting. In it, the artist informs us about the way she survived:
she kept herself together by appropriating the maternal function with which to nurture herself and by
representing the ensuing self-containment of her world. Two Fridas seated on a bench hold hands
and face the viewer before a dark sky filled with ominous storm clouds. One Frida has a broken heart
and the other a heart that is whole. One Frida clasps a pair of surgical pincers in her hand to keep the
other alive. Dispassionate and impersonal facial expressions produce an emotional remove from the
poignant, emotional, near-death scene she is depicting. Frida thus reminds us that she is a perennial
observer who looks at herself and then paints herself looking at herself, drawing the view-
er into a dialogue with the observer and observed.
Fridas double images further represent the mother who herself is divided between giv-
ing milk and giving poison, between nurturing the child and devouring the childmother
creator versus mother destroyer. Painted at a time when she divorced Diego, Frida ad-
ditionally portrayed the divided feelings she harbored toward him. She herself stated that the painting
depicted the Frida Diego loved and the Frida Diego no longer loved (4). This remarkably complex
painting with its multiple layers of meaning also reminds us that the structure of the selfthis self that
assumes itself to be singular, individual, and monolithicis, in reality, mirrored, divided, plural, and
distributed.
A
Already, at the age of six, while homebound and physically restricted with polio for nine
months, Frida discovered, perhaps for the first time, that she could turn to her creative
imagination to compensate for a painful, restrictive reality. She created an imaginary play-
mate who, unlike herself, was agile and loved to dance. Continually creating her double in
her self-portraits, Frida later struggled to prove that she could not only portray her pain, but in doing
so, step outside of it and surmount it. Like her childhood imaginary companion, Fridas mask-like face
in her self-portraitsher more mature alter-ego with its unflinching, stoic gazedeclares that all is
fine and under control. Beyond mirroring herself and creating a safe, self-enclosed world within which
to meet her needs, Frida also acted against feelings of self-disintegration and fears of loss of self by
reconstructing a novel self. In her diary, next to several small self-portrait drawings, Frida wrote, The
one who gave birth to herself(5)
Laura Mulvey and Peter Wollen, Frida Kahlo and Tina Modotti
(London: Whitechapel Art Gallery, 1982), 7-27. Alice Adams,
Frida Kahlo's passion, Art and Antiques (1989): 58-98. Anne Horton,
1
Fridamania, Art and Antiques 14.4 (1991): 126-178.
2
Danielle Knafo, In Her own Image: Womens Self-Representation
in Twentieth-Century Art (Cranbury, NJ: Fairleigh Dickinson University
Press, 2009).
3
Ibid.
4
Hayden Harrera, The Paintings, (New York: Harper Collins, 1991): 135.
5
Frida Kahlo, The Diary of Frida Kahlo: An Intimate Self-Portrait
(New York: Harry Abrams, Inc., 1995; Mexico: La Vaca Independiente S.A.
de C.V., 1995), 228.
Frida Kahlo and Freud: Moses and Monotheism
Robert S. White
Frida Kahlo
had painted a portrait of Don Jos Domingo
Lavin's wife in 1942. Lavin suggested that
Frida read the Sigmund Freud book "Mo-
ses the Man and Monotheistic Religion" and
then paint her interpretation of what she had
read. This painting was done in the style of a
miniature mural. This painting is sometimes
referred to as "Nucleus of Creation". In a writ-
ten description of this painting, Frida refers to
it as "Moses", or "Birth of the Hero".
Freuds Moses and Monotheism highlights Jewish Geistigkeit (spirituality), the renunciation
of instincts, intellectual prowess and manly self-control all epitomized by Moses. It was
this founder of civilization who had taken the highest achievements of the Egyptian Enlight-
enment and bequeathed them to the Jews the total rejection of idolatry, image-making and
magic, the cult of reason, justice and truth as well as a revolutionary commitment to moral
rectitude. (2)
Here is a talk she gave to some friends about the Nucleus of Creation:
I read the book only once, and started the painting with my first impression. Later, I
read it again, and I must confess I found my work most incomplete and quite different
from the interpretation Freud analyzes most marvelously in his Moses. But no theres
no way to change it by adding or subtracting, so Ill describe my painting just as it is.
The subject in particular is Moses or the birth of the Hero, but I conceived in my own
way a most confused way the events or images that left the greatest impact on me
when I read the book. What I tried to express most clearly and intensely was that the
reason people need to invent or image heroes and gods is because of their fear fear
of life and fear of death.
I began painting the figure of Moses as a child; Moses in Hebrew means the one
rescued from the waters, and in Egyptian Moses means child. I painted him as many
legends describe him, abandoned in a basket floating on a river. Creatively I tried
as much as possible to make the basket, covered by an animal skin, bring to mind a
womb, but actually according to Freud the basket is an exposed womb, and the water
means the maternal source, that gives birth to a baby. To focus on that event, I paint-
ed a human fetus in its last stage inside the womb. The horns that look like hands, are
held out to the world. At the sides of the already created child, I put the elements of its
creation: the fertilized egg and the cellular division.
Freud analyzes very clearly, but in a very complex way for me, the important fact that
Moses was not Jewish. So I only painted a youngster who might represent Moses, like
all those who had a similar beginning, according to legend, and later became important
people, guides to their countrymen, that is to say heroes brighter than the rest, and
thats why I painted the eye of knowledge. In this case, we encounter Sargon, Cyrus,
Romulus, Paris, etc.
Another extremely interesting conclusion of Freuds is that Moses, not being a Jew,
gave to the people he chose to guide and save, a religion that was not Jewish but
Egyptian. Amenhotep IV revived the cult of the Sun by taking as its foundation the an-
cient religion of Heliopolis. For that I painted the sun as the center of all religions, as
the foremost god, as creator and reproducer of life. This is the relationship of the three
main figures in the center of the painting.
Like Moses, there have been, and will be, a huge number of high and mighty
people to transform religions and human societies. It can be said that they are
a kind of messenger among the rulers and among the gods they invented to rule
them. There are more of these gods, and naturally not all of them would fit in, so I ar-
ranged on both sides of the sun those, who like it or not, have some direct relationship
with the sun. At the right those of the West, and at the left those of the East. The Assyr-
ian winged bull, Amon, Zeus, Osiris, Horus, Jehovah, Apollo, the Moon, the Virgin Mary,
Divine Providence, the Holy Trinity, Venus, and the devil. At the left, a lightening flash,
that is, Hurakn, Kukulkn and Gukamatz; Tlloc, the magnificent Coatlicue, mother of all
the gods, Quetzalcatl, Tezcatipoca, the Centotl, the Chinese dragon god and the Hindu
Brahman. I have no African god but I couldnt find one; I could make a little space for
him.
Having painted the gods who dont fit into their respective heavens, I tried to divide the
celestial world of imagination from the poetry of the earthly world of the fear of death,
then painted the human and animal skeletons you can see. The earth cups its hands
to protect them. Between death and the group of heroes theres no division at all, since
the heroes die too and the earth receives then generously and with no distinction. On
the same earth their heads painted larger to distinguish them from the common people,
the heroes (very few of them but most carefully chosen) the transformers, inventors or
creators of religions, the conquerors, the rebels that is to say bucktoothed. At the right
you see Amenhotep, latter called Iknaton, a young pharaoh of the eighteenth dynasty,
1370 BC, who imposed on his subjects a nontraditional religion, one against polytheism
and strictly monotheistic, with distant routes in the cult of On, Atons religion, that is, the
religion of the Sun. I ought to have given more relevance to this figure than to any other.
The people not only adored the Sun as a material being, but as the creator and preserver
of every living thing, both in and out of Egypt, a being whose energy is shown by its rays,
thus outdoing the most modern knowledge of solar power.
Then Moses, according to Freuds analysis, gave to his adopted people the very same
religion of Iknaton, changed a little to be in keeping with the interests and circumstances
of his time. Freud reaches this conclusion after a detailed study, in which he discovers
the intimate relationship between the religion of Aton and the Mosaic, both of them mono-
theistic. I didnt know to translate this whole part of a book into a painting.
Christ, Zoroaster, Alexander the Great, Caesar, Mohammed, Tamerlane, Napoleon, and
then follows the misguided child Hitler. At the left the marvelous Nefertiti, Iknatons wife.
I imagine that in addition to her extraordinary beauty, she must have been very flirtatious
and a superintelligent help to her husband. Buddha, Marx, Freud, Paracelsus, Epicurus,
Genghis Khan, Gandhi, Lenin and Stalin. The order is askew but I painted them accord-
ing to my knowledge of history, which is also askew. Between these people and the ones
on the hill, I painted a sea of blood, meaning war. And finally the powerful but never well-
connected common people, composed of all kinds of little insects; warriors, pacifists, sci-
entists and the ignorant, monument builders, rebels, flag bearers, medal wearers, talk-
ers, the insane and the wise, the happy and the sad, the healthy and the sick, the poets
and the fools, and all the other kinds of people you enjoy who live on this powerful
globe. Only the progressives see themselves a bit clearly; as for the rest with all
the noise, we dont know.
In the left foreground is Man, the builder, in four colors the four races. On the right, the
Mother, creator, her child in her arms. Behind her the Monkey. The two trees forming
an arch of triumph are the new life that always springs from the truck of old age. Below
in the center, the most important for Freud and many others, is Love represented by the
shell and snail, the two sexes, those who contain the ever new and living roots. Thats
all I can say about my painting.
A description of the symbolism .
3 vertical panels
The middle panel a central space of birth, life and Eros
Top to bottom the sun, the center of all religions, first Godcreator and reproducer of life the sun
has rays the tubes that look like hands extend toward the world
A cell in meosis, a uterus with a full-term fetus, a fertilized egg. Amniotic fluid is leaking from the
womb that merges with the rain in the background. The rain that doubles as both milk and as the
waters of the Nile, fertilizes the soil but also evokes amniotic fluid in this context, merging the concept
of human nourishment with the fertility of nature. (p. 139)
Moses as a baby in the basket, a mythical surrogate womb. The infant Moses resembles Diego Ri-
vera and has been given the third eye of wisdom, a device Kahlo sometimes used in her portraits of
Rivera. The shell and snail, pre-Columbian fertility symbols.
The panels on the left and right represent death and Thanatos. Animal and human skeletons that
divide the panels between the invented immortal Gods above and the mortal heroes and the masses
below. There are brown hands that frame the composition, opens her arms to receive everyone,
generously and without distinction
The two side panels are organized into the triparate realms of the id, ego and superego. Or into the
realms of immortality, life and death.
Gannit Ankori points out how Frida actually subverts Moses and Monotheism:
I suggest that Kahlo actually subverts the foundation of Freuds concept on monotheism. In-
deed, his emphasis on monotheism is undermined by her spectacular polytheistic pantheon of
fantastic hybrid deities. His emphasis on the spiritual, manifested in the prohibition to visualize
God proscribed by Mosaic Law, is subverted by Kahlos emphatic polychromatic visual splendor.
Another way to look at it would be to view Moses as a magnificent visualization of the return of
the repressed. Not merely the victory of an anthropomorphic and zoomorphic imagination over
an ascetic anti-visual severity, but also the triumphant return of the sensual; the return of the
maternal; and the return of the womb. (5)
Frida Kahlos Moses also testifies to the rich and provocative nature of Freuds original text.
Kahlo could use the book as a point of departure for her own eclectic and eccentric vision that
merges history, psychology, myth, religion, autobiography and art. Kahlo took from Freud im-
mense creative output that which she found most meaningful and relevant to her. Thus, by
merging phylogeny and ontogeny, she painted a creation myth that intersected with and cor-
responded to her own mythical self-creation. She presented Moses as she presented herself,
as a hybrid, cross-cultural protagonist within a cosmic drama that embraces plants, animals and
human beings; that balances Eros and Thanatos; male and female components; east and west;
science and art. (6)
3 Jones, E. The Life and Work of Sigmund Freud, Volume 3, New York: Basic Books,
1957.
4 Erlich, H. Shmuel. Der Mann Freud: A Contemporary Perspective on His and Our
Jewish and Psychoanalytic Identity, in New Perspectives on Freuds Moses and
Monotheism, ed. Ginsberg and Pardes, Tbingen: Max Niemeyer Verlag, 2006 p.240
5 Gannit, Ankori. Moses, Freud and Frida Kahlo, in New Perspectives on Freuds
Moses and Monotheism, ed. Ginsberg and Pardes, Tbingen: Max Niemeyer Verlag,
2006, p. 147.
Background on Oaxaca
Oaxaca is the name of one of Mexicos south-
eastern states and its capital city. The city, 330
miles from Mexico City, is typically reached by
a 45-minute plane trip or a five-hour highway
drive. Located at the convergence of two Sierra
Madre ranges, it has spectacular views of puffy
cotton clouds in brilliant blue skies over dazzling
mountain ranges and verdant cactus-dotted
valleys sprouting endless crops of corn. With its altitude of 5000 feet, Oaxaca enjoys a spring-like
climate year round. Even during the so-called rainy season one typically awakens to sparkling sun
interrupted only occasionally by a late afternoon or early evening shower. This provides
the nutriment for its exotic vegetation, and dazzling bursts of color provided by flowering
trees such as bougainvilleas.
Although Oaxaca remains unfamiliar to many, once a person has visited, he or she is
deeply moved and intrigued by its magical cultural traditions, glorious vistas and the
warmth of its people. In addition to its outstanding spectrum of folk art and handicrafts,
Oaxaca offers startling indigenous markets, ancient Zapotec ruins of monumental proportions such
as Monte Albn and Mitla, and world famous Spanish colonial buildings and churches housing exem-
plary 16th century gold leaf work.
In another pueblo, large patterned woven rugs wave like banners suspended from a massive but
graceful arched home encircled by its generous patio. Two vast white-washed showrooms display a
mixture of pre-Columbian patterns and woven reproductions of paintings by Diego Rivera and Escher.
An expertly designed sign announces the success of this family. The click clack of huge wooden
looms, through which shuttles are woven, is created by a man whose devotion and industriousness is
apparent. In these palatial quarters, a beautiful woman sits on the floor by his side, grinding natural
substances with stone implements and overseeing the preparation of dyes. Many skeins waiting to
be dyed are nearby, carded and spun by her daughter the previous day.
Ceramics
The wealth of ceramics in Oaxaca
is truly extraordinary, and can eas-
ily fill many volumes. There are five
major classes produced in three
pueblos: terra cotta, green glazed,
multi-color glazed, black and paint-
ed red. There is also an attractive
variety of unpainted red ceramics
produced in a fourth pueblo. Artists
create sculptural figures for purely
decorative purposes (e.g., market
ladies carrying all varieties of pro-
duce and complex representations
of mythical, historical and religious
themes), as well as functional ob-
jects for cooking and serving.
Textiles
Oaxaca is renowned for its wealth of textiles produced in three pueblos within easy reach
of Oaxaca City These can be divided into two broad categories: weaving and embroidery.
Weaving includes woolen rugs and wall hangings created on shuttle looms; cotton belts,
handbags and placemats produced on backstrap looms; and cotton cloth made on foot
pedal-operated shuttle looms, sold as yard goods or used to make finished bedspreads,
tablecloths, dresses and shawls. Embroidery consists primarily of hand-made garments
called wedding dresses. There
are many additional varieties of fine
textiles produced by indigenous
groups in the mountainous areas at
far greater distance from Oaxaca
City; these can be viewed in shops
in town.
Candles
Candles are an important part of pueblo life. They
are used for a variety of religious and other celebra-
tions such as weddings, confirmations and quincea-
os, the Mexican equivalent of Sweet Sixteen that
takes place at 15 years of age. The finer candle
makers create graceful, elaborate configurations
incorporating natural elements such as glorious flow-
ers and birds in a wide array of sizes. Candlemak-
ers create wonderful wax palettes, encompassing a
range of subtle and brilliant colors, sometimes ac-
cented with flowers of paper and tinsel.
Basketry
Baskets of innumerable types are sold in abundance in all
indigenous markets and in shops. There are rigid laundry
baskets with tops (canastos), rigid open baskets with
handles used for marketing (canastas), bird cages, flex-
ible round wastebaskets, and cases for eyeglasses and for
money, that are made of palm. Many, however, come from
distant pueblos well beyond the geographical radius we
consider: the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and the Mixteca (in
northwestern Oaxaca).
The most significant indigenous holiday of the year, nearly all folk artists create pieces in its honor,
especially those who work in ceramics and woodcarving. In addition, objects are made specifically
for this occasion, for placement on home altars and gravesites. These include decorated sugar skulls
and miniature tables bearing bottles and food offerings for muertos (the souls who return for one day
to visit their families). There are also clay and wire figures of skeletons in every human pose imagin-
able (getting married, having and performing dental work, riding a bicycle, dancing, and fishing, to
name a few), pull-string skeletons that pop up within their coffins, and display boxes containing de-
tailed scenes of this event.
Isabels Corrido
Para Isabel
I met her the next day. Isabel was nineteen, from a village where the elders
spoke the language of the Aztecs. She would smile whenever the ice pellets
of English clattered around her head. When the justice of the peace said
You may kiss the bride, our lips brushed for the first and only time.
The borrowed ring was too small, jammed into my knuckle.
There were snapshots of the wedding and champagne in plastic cups.
Isabel would say: Quiero ver las fotos. She wanted to see the pictures
of a wedding that happened but did not happen, her face inexplicably
happy, me hoisting a green bottle, dizzy after half a cup of champagne.
Francisca said: She can sing corridos, songs of love and revolution
from the land of Zapata. All night Isabel sang corridos in a barroom
where no one understood a word. I was the bouncer and her husband,
so I hushed the squabbling drunks, who blinked like tortoises in the sun.
Her boyfriend and his beer cans never understood why she married me.
Once he kicked the front door down, and the blast shook the house
as if a hand grenade detonated in the hallway. When the cops arrived,
I was the translator, watching the sergeant watching her, the inscrutable
squaw from every Western he had ever seen, bare feet and long black hair.
We lived behind a broken door. We lived in a city hidden from the city.
When her headaches began, no one called a doctor. When she disappeared
for days, no one called the police. When we rehearsed the questions
for Immigration, Isabel would squint and smile. Quiero ver las fotos,
she would say. The interview was canceled, like a play on opening night
shut down when the actors are too drunk to take the stage. After she left,
I found her crayon drawing of a bluebird tacked to the bedroom wall.
I left too, and did not think of Isabel again until the night Francisca called to say:
Your wife is dead. Something was growing in her brain. I imagined my wife
who was not my wife, who never slept beside me, sleeping in the ground,
wondered if my name was carved into the cross above her head, no epitaph
and no corrido, another ghost in a riot of ghosts evaporating from the skin
of dead Mexicans who staggered for days without water through the desert.
Thirty years ago, a girl from the land of Zapata kissed me once
on the lips and died with my name nailed to hers like a broken door.
I kept a snapshot of the wedding; yesterday it washed ashore on my desk.