How to Improve your

Fit
in 4 Chapters
Hey you!

So if youve been with me for a minute and have been

subscribed to my email list, youve seen most of this book as
previously titled, The Handy Pattern Makers Ebook.

But after reading a lot of the questions that Ive been getting
and talking to people about their challenges with
patternmaking, its clear that you want to know more about
making your patterns fit!

So Ive rewritten this handy little guide to focus more on how

can you use this info to get a better fit.

Reader Beware!

This is definitely a guide for beginners so most of the info might

be old news to you if youve been around the block a couple
of times, but if youre like some of the readers and youtubers
that follow me and you need a refresher, this will be
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amount of information to get you back in the swing of things.

Now let me give a little background on the title

How to Improve your Fitin 4 Chapters. So originally the book had

a decent little amount of information divided into 3 main chapters
or sections to help get you started quickly with sketching, finding
patternmaking tools on the internet, and a few misc. items that you
might find useful. But none of the information was geared toward
helping you create a better fit.

So in the rewrite I added an extra chapter, the Conversational

Glossary, to get you used to seeing patternmaking terms with basic
easy to understand definitions that also give you a somewhat
deeper understanding of why you need to know these words to
make your garments fit better.

I hope you enjoy this resource! And hopefully youll feel confident
enough to take a course or two from me in the future!

Only time will tell

Good luck on your sewing and pattern making adventures

Christopher White

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 Table Of Contents

1. Sketching for a Better Fit....p.5

2. Better Tools, Better Pattern,

Better Fit............................p.9

3. Misc. Measurement and Size

Charts ...p.22

4. Conversational Pattern Making

Glossaryp.31

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 -Chapter 1-
Sketching For Better Fit
Sometimes ideas can be perfected through getting it out onto
paper. And its the same when youre trying to get the perfect fit
for your next garment. Even though sketching seems to be
something that you really dont have to do to sew well, Ive found
that it can help with the brain storming process and making sure
you have a game plan before you start sewing. BUT.

A word of caution! Sketching will only be beneficial if you sketch

your garment in a realistic way, not pure fantasy.

3 TIPS to Sketch for a More Realistic Fit

1) Unless youre sketching a high fashion garment for a high

fashion size model, use realistic proportions. I know you might
have heard the nine heads theory for sketching, but unless
youre going to design school (and probably even if you ARE
going to design school), learn to sketch for the audience you
want to serve. Good example: If you want to make clothing for
women, would you sketch out a male form with male
clothing? Probably not. Its the same if youre making clothing
for taller, bigger, shorter, more plus size, etc. You get the point.
Draw your sketch the same way.

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2) Think about how the person will wear the garment because a
garment is no good if it cant be worn. As designers, we want
the most perfect, most attractive fit we can get, and as a result
well sometimes try to make everything skin tight! Let the
person breathe! I had to realize, people have to be able to
move in your garment, and people have to get IN to your
garment so also think of closures and openings so a person can
easily put on and take off your garment. There are some
exceptions but follow this as a general rule.

3) Draw all of these things on your sketch! Buttons, zippers, skirt

vents, jacket vents, and yes DARTS! The best way to start
making your garments fit better is to get used to using elements
in your garments that MAKE them fit better. Unless everything
you make is going to be out of spandex and other super
stretchy fabrics, youre going to need all these things and some
seams. All the designers and patternmakers have depended on
these elements to make garments fit for them. The easiest way
to start is to add them to your new sketches!

So Ive included my personal blank form sketches that I used when I

started off sketching my ideas years ago. Youre free to draw on
them and get some practice drawing garments with the tips I gave
you above. Heres another tip practice drawing other designers
runway garments, making sure to draw any seams, darts, buttons,
etc. that you see on the garment youre copying.

Directions: Draw your garment over the form in pencil, use a white
out pen where you dont want to see the form, then draw over
everything you want in ink pen. Enjoy!
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SewSchool.info 7
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 -Chapter 2-
Better Tools, Better Pattern, Better Fit
Theres a pizza place that, depending on where you live on this
Earth, you might not have heard of. Their name is Papa Johns and
their slogan is Better Ingredients, Better Pizza

Thats also true for making clothing. Every little decision you make
about your next project will have an affect on the final product

And thats especially true for the way your garment fits.

Whether that be the curve of your armhole or neckline, the way

your waist line is shaped, or even how crooked your hip line is, all
of these little things can affect how comfortable and flattering your
garment is.

Welcome to the Pattern Making Supplies section where I will tell

you exactly what tools youll need, all with pictures AND exactly
where to get them online.

Here youll find a detailed list of what tools you need to do

patternmaking on a professional level, so you can get closer to
creating a professional fit. Ive even found some items in groups.

As far as the internet links go, I use short links throughout this
entire guide such as http://bit.ly/----. Dont be afraid of them, they
help me save space instead of giving you long complicated links.
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 Pattern Supplies
1. Pins: Straight Pins with different heads
a. Glass(not shown) http://amzn.to/qCj5Yd
b. Plastic (quilting) http://amzn.to/qNQ3mp
c. Round & Flat (quilting) http://amzn.to/oYXS1A
2. Push Pins: http://bit.ly/ph05Q5
3. Pincushion:
a. Fabric: http://amzn.to/167wzDC
b. Magnetic: http://amzn.to/qwPBM3

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4. Fabric Scissors
a. Regular: Scissor Set http://bit.ly/nwTplD
b. Pinking: http://bit.ly/rbGlwG
5. Paper Scissors: Scissor Set http://bit.ly/nwTplD
6. Pencils:
a. Regular #2 (not shown)
b. Mechanical 24pk: http://amzn.to/puCbGu (couldnt find my
kind, 30 pk Penway Pencils)
c. Erasers 3 pk: http://amzn.to/1DcXlJr

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7. Pens: (not shown) Basic pens, nothing special
a. Black: Identifies Self fabric
b. Blue: Identifies Self fabric
c. Green: Identifies Lining fabric
d. Red: Identifies Interfacing fabric
e. Purple, orange, etc: Identifies Secondary/Combo fabric
8. Sharpie Markers: set of 17 http://amzn.to/mQ3kuL
a. Black: Identifies Self fabric
b. Blue: Identifies Self fabric
c. Green: Identifies Lining fabric
d. Red: Identifies Interfacing fabric
e. Purple, orange, etc: Identifies Secondary/Combo fabric

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9. French Curve (clear): http://bit.ly/1se8QMd or Pattern Rulers Set
http://bit.ly/obFXTe
10. Vary Form Curve (metal): Pattern Rulers Set http://bit.ly/obFXTe
11. Hip Curve (metal): Pattern Rulers Set http://bit.ly/obFXTe
12. Square Rule (metal tailors square): Pattern Rulers Set
http://bit.ly/obFXTe
13. Yard Stick (metal; not shown): http://thd.co/1skboTq

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14. Tape Measure: Pattern Rulers Set http://bit.ly/obFXTe
15. Pattern Hooks and/or Rings: 144pcs http://bit.ly/1x3QiPR or 12pcs
http://bit.ly/1sebb9S
16. Hole Punch: http://bit.ly/1vQZk0X
17. Stapler: http://amzn.to/obqIEy
18. Extended Stapler (not shown): http://amzn.to/qqXDpi

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18. Staple Remover: http://amzn.to/rt0nA6
19. Masking Tape:: http://amzn.to/ojmA0g (you can get these cheaper
than that)
20. Scotch clear tape: http://amzn.to/neZK7X (you can get this cheaper
too)
21. Twill tape Black, 10yrds: http://amzn.to/167Ea55

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22. Soutashe Black (3/16): http://amzn.to/1ICu4rT
23. Notcher: http://bit.ly/1z8n7JM
24. Tracing Wheel (Sharp point): http://bit.ly/1yAdaqA
25. Tracing Wheel (Blunted point): most basic sewing kits you buy will
have the one in the picture below

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26. Awl: http://bit.ly/12waJYi
27. Metal Weights (not shown): http://bit.ly/1sedTfF
28. Tailors Chalk : Square type http://amzn.to/1wzMFBE

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30. Patternmaking Book: http://amzn.to/qvf31Q
31. DressForm: http://bit.ly/nDRO1p
32. Sewing Machine: Brother Lx-3125 http://bit.ly/qFm7JM
33. Notebook: http://amzn.to/qaBW1m

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34. Muslin: 10 yards http://bit.ly/1qxwSRc
35. Pattern Paper: 35 http://thd.co/1vR7p62
36. Pen Pouch: http://amzn.to/n5u9oi
37. Simple Calculator: http://amzn.to/qeYE4k

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38. Iron and Ironing Board:
a. Simple : http://amzn.to/12wjRw6
b. Board: http://amzn.to/oAWj0n
39. Tackle/Supply Box: http://amzn.to/rixWwX
40. Table/Flat Surface: http://amzn.to/1skf9YV

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41. Cork style Bulletin Board (Optional, can be used instead of table):
http://amzn.to/n3xptf
42. Rotary Cutter (Optional): rotary set http://amzn.to/pazgcA
43. Rotary Board (Optional): rotary set http://amzn.to/pazgcA

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 -Chapter 3-
Misc. Measurement and Size Charts

Hello again! These are your free Measurements and Size

Charts! I tried to include some useful charts for you to use in
your daily sewing, designing, patternmaking and general
thinking processes.

These are basically your way of comparing the patterns you

create to the fairly standardized clothing industry sizing. But if
youre making patterns for yourself, this isnt for you to check
your answers. But lets say youre making patterns for a child
and you need to see if your measurements are on the right
track, this would be good for that. And then you can guess-
timate if your pattern will fit without the child there 100% of
the time.

You can print this out and staple it to your wall so you can refer
to it when you need.

I staple things to the wall all the time! :p

Ok, enjoy!

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 Inches to Decimals Chart
Note: The spreadsheet was auto changing my fractions to dates so you
wont see a fraction line (/) on most of them
Ex: 1 32 = one-thirty second
1 32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.03125
2 32 1 16 ~ ~ ~ 0.0625
3 32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.09375
4 32 2 16 1 8 ~ ~ 0.125
5 32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.15625
6 32 3 16 ~ ~ ~ 0.1875
7 32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.21875
8 32 4 16 2 8 1 4 ~ 0.25
9 32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.28125
10 32 5 16 ~ ~ ~ 0.3125
11 32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.34375
12 32 6 16 3 8 ~ ~ 0.375
13/32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.40625
14/32 7 16 ~ ~ ~ 0.4375
15/32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.46875
16/32 8 16 4 8 2 4 12 0.5
17/32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.53125
18/32 9 16 ~ ~ ~ 0.5625
19/32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.59375
20/32 10 16 5 8 ~ ~ 0.625
21/32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.65625
22/32 11 16 ~ ~ ~ 0.6875
23/32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.71875
24/32 12 16 6 8 3 4 ~ 0.75
25/32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.78125
26/32 13 /16 ~ ~ ~ 0.8125
27/32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.84375
28/32 14 /16 7 8 ~ ~ 0.875
29/32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.90625
30/32 15 /16 ~ ~ ~ 0.9375
31/32 ~ ~ ~ ~ 0.96875
32/32 16/16 8 8 4 4 22 1

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 Patternmaking Calculator
This is a pretty cool calculator program I found and downloaded that
helps you add decimals and fractions easily. You can get this from CNET
Downloads.

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 Misc. Measurement Charts
These measurements came from the internet after searching for
Standard womens measurement charts.
This gives you a few measurements for a few different sizes to give you
some idea of how different sizes and measurements relate to each other
on a larger scale dealing with the industrial standards.
Note: Pay close attention to charts as measurements vary from chart to
chart; information is taken from
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/US_standard_clothing_size.

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 -Chapter 4-
Conversational Pattern Making
Glossary
Hi again!

So youve made it to the end of the book where this glossary is!

This is the newest section of the book where I take pattern making
terms and I give you little definitions for them in a conversational
easy to understand tone.

Improving your vocabulary and understanding what each of these

words means will improve your fit by changing the way you think of
your garment construction and how different parts of your pattern
play into the whole picture.

For fear if confusing or overwhelming you if youre brand new, I

didnt go too deep into the definitions and the whys.

I wanted to keep it simple!

This is Chris signing out

Thanks for subscribing and learning with me

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1) Awl- basically an ice pick used in patternmaking to mark
about 1/2" before the end of the dart; also can be used to mark
bust points.

2) Abdomen- measurement about 3" down from the natural

waist line right about where the pelvic bones are/ where most
of society now wears their pants; this measurement is
important for trying to making low rise jeans and pants that fit
at the now more acceptable level; high-waisted pants and skirts
are made at or slightly above the natural waist line similar to old
designs back when just about everything was worn at the
natural waistline.

3) Bicep- measurement around the fullest part of the flexed

bicep; used when creating and fitting the sleeve pattern

4) Bodice- on a dress with a waist seam, this is the name of the

top half; the body of the garment from the waist up.

5) Bust/Chest- horizontal measurement taken around the fullest

part of the breasts/chest;

6) Clear Ruler- used to help add seam allowances and great for
making parallel marks in smaller measurements since you can
see through the ruler.

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7) Dart- triangular section of fabric taken out of a garment to make
it fit better in areas wear the fabric may hang away from the body
like going from the busts to the waist or from the hips to the waist.

8) Ease- in patternmaking and design, ease is usually the extra

room added to a garment/pattern so that it's not absolutely skin
tight and unwearable; in sewing, it's used for areas like the sleeve
cap that have an awkward turn and you have to make your garment
fit

9) French Curve Ruler- used for making curved edges as in the

armhole, neckline, sleeve cap, etc.; it's a spiral shaped ruler

10) Hip- horizontal measurement around the fullest part of the hips
and buttucks; used for creating and fitting skirt

11) Hip Curve Ruler- used to help make the curved edges of a skirt
pattern

12) Horizontal Balance Line (HBL)- lines on the pattern that have to
be perfectly perpendicular to the vertical center lines (center front
and center back) and parallel to the floor; the hip line and bust line
are HBL's

13) Notcher- a tool similar to a hole puncher used to make little

cuts in the edge of a pattern to pass along information about seam
allowances, centers of the pattern piece, front & back, where other
pieces join, etc.

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14) Pattern Hooks- hooks used to hang patterns up vertically
when storing them.

15) Seam allowance- extra fabric added to the edge of a pattern

piece to allow it to be sew with another pattern piece and for
the stitching to hold.

16) Skirt- although this is obvious, on a dress with a waist seam,

this is the bottom half; pattern used to draft skirt designs, with
or without connecting the bodice

17) Sleeve- pattern used to draft sleeve designs, usually in

combination with a bodice pattern that it sews into.

18) Sleeve Cap- hill shaped area at the top of a sleeve that sews
into the arm hole of the bodice.

19) Tailor's Chalk- used in tracing patterns onto fabrics and for
making marks while fitting; wax chalk tends to disappear when
body heat is applied.

20) Tailor's Square- a ruler with a 90 degree angle in it used for

making perfectly squared intersections, like where the bust line
intersects with the center front.

21) Torso- in patternmaking, this is the pattern that combines

the bodice and skirt pattern into one pattern without a waistline
seam; this is the pattern that most basic dress shirts and dresses
without waist seams are made from
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22) Tracing Wheel- a patternmaking tool used for tracing
patterns or pattern shapes (like darts or seam allowances) onto
other patterns or other areas of your current pattern.

23) Waist- measurement taken at the natural waistline for use

in creating and fitting patterns.

24) Wrist- measurement taken around the hand crossing the

first row of knuckles used for creating and fitting sleeve
patterns.

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