PUT AN EGG ON IT

How Do T H AT
JA M MY

You Like
RAMEN
YO L K
P. 74

Yours?

d Radishes p. 2
But ter an
Herb
alted
ith S
st w
oa

HAR D
nT
go

BOI L E D?
Eg
ed

10 MINUTES
Fr i

EXAC T LY !
P. 70

A P R I L 2 01 7
CRISPY
LACY FRIED
THE PERFECT
EGGS
P. 6 8
P OAC H
P. 72
 BON APP TIT VOLUME 62 NUMBER 3

april
T H E S P R I N G I SS U E

F E AT U R E S

66 84
PUT AN SALT OF
BLACKBERRY EGG ON IT THE EARTH
JUICE LENDS YOUR Master our How Maldon
EGGS A NEW HUE. techniques for frying, became Maldon.
P. 71 hard-boiling, BY NICK PAUMGARTEN
poaching, and soft-
boiling, and youve 92
cracked the code TOP BRASS
for enjoying eggs Sleek bar carts,
all day, every day. shakers, bowls, and
BY CHRIS MOROCCO more will put a shine
AND AMIEL STANEK on your next party.
76 96
SPRING PASTA SPRINGTIME IN
Ramps, artichokes, THE SOUTHLAND
rhubarb, asparagus, Chef Vivian
and morein-season Howard gives
veg are the stars beautiful ingredients
behind these a homespun feel. This
inspiring noodles. Easter shes sharing
RECIPES BY her leg of lamb with
ANDY BARAGHANI mint gremolata, turnip
and kale gratin, and
a smooth sesame
banana pudding pie.

ON THE COVER
Photograph by
Michael Graydon
+ Nikole Herriott.
Food styling by
Rebecca Jurkevich.
Prop styling
by Amy Wilson.

PHOTOGRAPH BY TED CAVANAUGH. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI.

COOK THE COVER

Fried Egg on Toast with Salted Herb Butter and Radishes. To make the herb butter, finely chop cup mixed
tender herbs (think parsley, dill, cilantro, mint, basil, and/or tarragon) in a food processor, then add cup (1 stick)
room-temperature unsalted butter, tsp. finely grated lemon zest, 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice, 1 tsp. kosher salt,
and tsp. freshly ground black pepper and pulse to bring it all together (enough for 4; chill extra). Generously spread
herb butter over a piece of toast and top with a fried egg (see our method on page 69). Finish off with some thinly
sliced radishes tossed with a drizzle of lemon juice and a pinch of kosher salt, your choice of herbs, a little flaky sea
salt, and a grind or two of pepper.

2 A P R I L 2 0 17
 BONAPPETIT.COM

april
T H E S P R I N G I SS U E

S TA RT E R S BA KITCHEN C O LU M N S

15 31 10
Ooh la la, its a A BA KITCHEN R.S.V.P.
new age of glorious PRIMER Reader requests
French restaurants The man behind and the stars
Storing your food Phillys best pizzeria of spring produce.
never looked so chic teaches us how to
Garlic powder 2.0 stretch, sauce, and 52
Vegas, the BA layer toppings NOTES FROM MY
way Microgreens like a pie-making pro. TEST KITCHEN
at largeand more. BY JOE BEDDIA The secret to golden-
outside, tender-inside
36 cauliflower steaks?
DINNER Just ask Yotam
TONIGHT Ottolenghi.
Senior food editor
Claire Saffitz is 58
a master of the one- CITY GUIDES:
skillet meal. Heres KYOTO
what she cooks Quiet streets, rental
up for maximum bikes, and tofu
weeknight satisfaction galore. Heres how
with minimal dishes. to devour all that
Japan has to offer.
46 BY CAREY POLIS
HEALTHYISH
Nothing but 112
high esteem for PREP SCHOOL
the steamer. A ham taxonomy,
BY CHRISTINA CHAEY hoisin on everything,
and more.
48
HOLIDAY 118
TINY GREENS,
SPECIAL LAST BITE
H U G E F L AV O R . Debbie Harry
Coconut macaroons
P. 2 8 and flourless (you know, Blondie)
chocolate cake come keeps a juicer and a
together for a bottle of Chardonnay
Passover dessert backstage.
thats twice as tasty. For balance.
BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ BY DAVID WALTERS

IN EVERY ISSUE
8 editors letter
116 recipe index
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI.

116 sourcebook

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? E-mail us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial ofces: Bon Apptit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
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KTK
 WHAT DO
A B O W L O F PAS TA .
Y E S , T H AT S H O W E R
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6 A P R I L 2 0 17
editors letter
At my usual a.m. spot in the BA Test Kitchen
WHERE IT ALL BEGINS
If youve got a carton of eggs, youve got breakfast. Or lunch. Or
dinner. The only question is what are you going to do with them?
I ask myself this most weekday mornings when I wander into
the Bon Apptit Test Kitchen around 8:45. I suppose I should eat
breakfast at home, but Im too busy guzzling an espresso-spiked
iced coffee, getting showered and dressed, and hustling my
nine-year-old out the door and off to school.
Not until I arrive on the 35th floor of One World Trade Center
can I exhale and, you know, have a moment.
I head straight to the walk-in fridge and grab a couple of
brown organic eggs. Then, I think to myself, Hmmshould I
make crispy olive oilfried eggs, or do I want a creamy French-
style scramble with chives? Or how about I get all hotel room
service and make some four-and-a-half-minute soft-boiled ones?
And thats the thing about eggsif you ask enough questions,
man, will you get a lot of answers.
Back in the day, former senior food editor Alison Roman and
I would debate how exactly to get the whites of a fried egg all
crunchy while maintaining an unperturbed yolk. Some folks
advocate carefully basting the whites (but not the yolks!) with
the simmering oil. Others cover the skillet (though I think you
risk steaming the yolks by doing this).
Most mornings I make scrambled eggs. Easy, right? Well,
yeah, no. Even when Im alone in the test kitchen, I have a debate
with myself about what to do. Crack the eggs directly into a
buttered nonstick pan over medium-low heat and massage them
8 A P R I L 2 0 17
Follow Adam
on Twitter and
Instagram at
@rapo4
slowly with a rubber spatula? Or do like the French and beat the
eggs vigorously, pour them into a medium-heat pan, and con-
tinuously stir together until a soft custard forms? No matter
what method I go with, I always remove the eggs just before
they look done. You want them tender, not rubbery.
Not that I always know what Im talking about. Take those
four-and-a-half-minute soft-boiled eggs. As I was writing this
letter, associate editor Amiel Stanek handed me our extensive
egg primer on page 66. In it, he and senior food editor Chris
Morocco argue for a six-minute-thirty-second boil, which yields
a firm white and a jammy yolk.
But that amount of time seemed too long. So I went home to
test their method. I lowered the eggs into boiling water and six
minutes and thirty seconds later plunged them into an ice bath
for a minute. They were perfectoozy deep-orange yolks, set
whites. And when I posted the eggs on Instagram, it unleashed
an avalanche of questions. Did I start the timer as I lowered the
eggs into the water or after the water returned to a boil? Large
or extra-large eggs? Room temp or refrigerated?
Everyone had an opinion or a technique to share. And thats
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU
what I love about eggs. Every time you turn on the stove, youve
got to ask yourself what youre going to do with them. And the
answers are endless.
A DA M R A P O P O R T
Editor in Chief
r.s.v.p.
Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you?
E-mail us at rsvp@bonappetit.com*

STAFF
PICK

THE FROZEN MANGO LASSI AT PUB ROYALE IN CHICAGO

IS AN ADULT SLUSHY I CAN TOTALLY GET BEHIND. IT HAS
A FULL SERVING OF FRUIT, AND ITS NOT TOO SUGARY, SO
I DONT FEEL GUILTY ORDERING A RUMFILLED SECOND ONE
A S H L E Y M A S O N , con t ribu ting edi t orial assis t an t

FROZEN RUMMANGO LASSI Pinch of kosher salt

MAKES 4 Of course, you dont have tsp. ancho chile powder,
to include the rumjust like you plus more for serving
dont have to visit the swim-up bar Mint sprigs (for serving)
next time youre on vacation.
Pure mango, rum, lemon juice, golden
1 cups peeled fresh (or frozen, syrup, yogurt, salt, and tsp. ancho
thawed) mango pieces chile powder in a blender until syrup is
cup gold rum dissolved. Add 4 cups ice and pure
cup fresh lemon juice until mixture is smooth.
cup golden syrup or honey Divide lassi among glasses. Garnish
2 Tbsp. plain whole-milk each with a mint sprig and lightly
Greek yogurt sprinkle with more ancho chile powder.

A New
Spring Fling
This time of
year ramps take over
restaurant menus
everywhere, but
theyre not the only
darlings of spring.
We asked chefs what
produce deserves
similar fervor.
In the school of farmers market veg, purple I nominate fiddlehead ferns Purslanes
daikon is the gorgeous prom queen whos also to replace ramps as the It acidity and
the valedictorian of her class. Shes got ingredient. I pickle a bunch, deep- brightness
everything going for her: seasonal (best in early fry them, then serve them with goes great
spring and early fall), delicious in raw form lemon aioli. Theyre my version of with Mexican
as well as cooked, and a beauty on film. a fried pickle. GREG BAXTROM, flavors. Its an
JUNE RODIL, co-owner, Junes All Day in Austin chef-owner, Olmsted in Brooklyn edible weed
that can be used
raw in salads,
as a sub for
Skip the market and gather armfuls Celery root is usually a winter item, but microgreens, or
of wild mustard for free. its refreshing flavor is exactly what I want
cooked down.
In Michigan it grows everywhere, this time of year. Its extremely versatile: GABRIELA
and you can make a mean pesto I ferment it, cook it in milk, or make it into CMARA, chef-
with it. MOLLY MITCHELL, an herbaceous soda. EDOUARDO JORDAN, owner, Cala
co-owner, Roses Fine Food in Detroit chef-owner, Salare in Seattle in San Francisco

1 0 A P R I L 2 0 17 * S U B M I SS I O N S B E C O M E T H E P R O P E R T Y O F B O N A P P T I T.
r.s.v.p.
THE CHEF SAYS
I use fresh horseradish
when I want that pungent
flavor without the heat.
The grated root is milder
and less concentrated
than the jarred version.
RYAN PERA,
executive chefowner,
Coltivare Pizza & Garden

Meat of
the Matter
In our February issue,
chefs shared their tips
for navigating the
butcher shop with
a clearer conscience.
Some readers were
totally on board, but
others had their own
ideas about how to
eat more responsibly.

B U Y B E YO N D
T H E B A R N YA R D

BA says: Seek
out rabbit, goat,
or guinea hen.
Colleen B. says:
Dont forget about
bison. It will never
substitute for filet
mignon, but it makes
a hell of a rag or
burger. It has fewer
calories than beef
and is certainly
DEAR BON APPTIT, WHEN I LIVED IN HOUSTON, I OFTEN more sustainable.

ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (LASSI, PEA AND PROSCIUTTO SALAD); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (SPRING FLING, MEAT).
WENT TO COLTIVARE. NORMALLY I NEVER TRY THE SAME
DISH TWICE, BUT THIS PEA AND PROSCIUTTO SALAD WAS SO GET THE GOOD STUFF

DIVINE THAT I ORDERED IT EVERY TIME IT WAS ON THE MENU. BA says: Buy your
meat from farmers
E L E N A B OY D, W in s t on -S a l e m, N C markets or a whole-
animal butcher.
Caroline A. says:
There are some
PEA AND PROSCIUTTO SALAD Whisk lemon juice and mustard in a excellent sources for
humanely raised
If you see great-looking
4 S E RV I N G S large bowl. Gradually add oil, whisking
grass-fed beef and
snow peas, use them in combination with constantly until emulsified; season pastured poultry
or in place of the sugar snaps. vinaigrette with salt and pepper. online, like White
Working in batches, cook green peas Oak Pastures
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice and sugar snap peas in a large pot and Rocky Mountain
Organic Meats.
tsp. Dijon mustard of boiling salted water until crisp-tender,
3 Tbsp. olive oil about 2 minutes per batch. Immediately
FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

BONEIN IS A BONUS
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper transfer to a bowl of ice water and
1 cups shelled fresh green swoosh peas around until cold; this sets BA says: Bone-in
cuts enrich long-
peas (from about 1 lb. pods), their color and halts the cooking.
cooking braises.
or frozen peas, thawed Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Molly T. says:
12 oz. sugar snap peas (about Add green peas, sugar snap peas, I save the really
3 cups), trimmed and arugula to bowl with vinaigrette big bones for stock.
4 oz. arugula, tough stems removed and toss until well coated with dressing; I always roast them
(about 6 packed cups) season with salt and pepper. first, then cook them
in a pressure cooker
4 oz. prosciutto, thinly sliced Arrange salad on a platter and top for 40 minutes with
Knob of fresh horseradish, with prosciutto. Finely grate horseradish water, peppercorns,
peeled (for serving) over the salad to your liking. and vinegar.

12 A P R I L 2 0 17
 starters
THE 2 A.M. EGG SANDWICH PRICEY COOKWARE WE COVET
SILICON VALLEY IN YOUR KITCHEN
GET ORGANIZED (AND LIKE IT)
CHEFS BITE THE DUST

Nothing
says Ive
studied
Escoffier like
a toque, seen
here at NYC s
Le Coucou.

Remember when
restaurants felt special?
When you wore something
other than jeans? When
the matre d would push in
your chair? When there
were matre ds? When
youd get butterflies
because you werent sure

1
which of the three forks
to use first? In other words,
remember when formal
dining meant French? I do,
and as much as I love spots
with brassica bowls and
backless chairs, I miss the
pomp and decadence.
The French And Im not the only lapin-
eating, nostalgia-loving

Are Coming! Francophile out there:

From pommes aligot to
chic boatneck uniforms, classic
French is back, bb!
Restaurants are reinventing
fine French dining in 2017
terms. Is it weird if we say
bon apptit?
ANDREW KNOWLTON

P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU
 2
STARTERS 4
FRENCH
REVOLUTION
First Off, the
Cookwares
Just Cooler
All my life Ive
cooked with copper,
says chef Ludo Lefebvre,
who has about 25
copper pots at Trois Mec
in L.A. I would not feel
French if I didnt have
copper in my kitchen.
Theres no need to go to
Parisian kitchen supply
store E. Dehillerin to
capture that feeling (or to
reap the benefits: It heats
evenly and maintains the
heat). We have our eye
on Brooklyn Copper
Cookware, which makes
copper pots and pans the
old French way: by hand.
A nonstick tin lining
instead of stainless steel
means they heat up faster.
NIKITA RICHARDSON
13 Standouts That Vive la France 1. Le Coucou, NYC 2. Spring, L.A. 3. Henrietta s, Charleston, SC 4. LOursin, Seattle
1 6 A P R I L 2 0 17
Bordeaux
Is Getting
Boring
by D A N A F R A N K
c o - o w n e r, Dame,
P o r t l a n d, O R
Its not that I dont
like the greats from
Bordeaux and
Burgundy. But many
of those wines have
been priced out for
the majority of the
wine -buying public.
I rarely drink that
wine and I work in
the business. Were
moving away from
rich, full-bodied wines
to rustic-tasting,
lighter, juicier wines.
Im drinking French
country wines
native varieties from
family wineries.
Ask a sommelier
for a provincial wine
from the South
of France youll
get really, really
interesting wines that
are more affordable.
Thats what I get
excited about.
From $400;
brooklyncopper
cookware.com
Yes, there
was a time
(in this case,
1969) when
waiters didnt
sport sleeve
tattoos.
Q&A
For more than 30 years,
Charles Masson ran the front
of the house at La Grenouille,
one of New Yorks most
glamorous jacket-required
French spots. At his new
Upper East Side restaurant,
Majorelle, the longtime
matre d is striking a
They balance between formality
and modernity. N .R.
Take Casual dining is the trend.
How do you create an
Really indulgent experience thats
not stuffy?
When a guest walks in, he
Good
or she feels comfortable even
PHOTOGRAPHS: HENRI CARTIERBRESSON/MAGNUM PHOTOS (ARCHIVAL); VICTOR PRADO (COPPER PAN)
before looking at the menu.
Care The owners went through a lot
of pains to understand how
the light is diffused, how
of You the acoustics are balanced.
You dont even see the
air-conditioning vents.
What about the service?
True luxury is having the
comfort of being served at the
pace you want. If someone is
very busy, if they say, I only
have 20 minutes, thats not a
problemwell serve a simple
soup. Caring is timeless.
Whats your take on the
rise of restaurants with loud
music and backless chairs?
The restaurant has no music.
Our chairs are comfortable.
We are the antidote.
 3
STARTERS 4
FRENCH
REVOLUTION

Whats
Old Is New
Again
Like high-waisted
denim, plenty of long-gone
dishes are making a
comeback. Heres a taste
of a few of our favorites

Chef Tony
Esnault
brings wild
Burgundy
snails to
SoCal.

Quen elles d e Es c a rg ot Ve a l b l a n q uet te Po m m es a l i g o t C ui sses d e

brochet L.A. has officially A stew of veal in a Picture the glorious g r en o ui l l e
Pike dumplings become a mollusk roux-based cream cheese stretch of a Sounds nice when
fish pured with town. At Petit sauce that goes mozzarella stick. At the French say it,
lots of butter Trois, the snails against everything the new Bellecour doesnt it? Frog
and creamwere are drenched modern chefs love: located outside legs may lack the
a staple of the in a garlic-parsley no browning, no Minneapolis, chef same appeal,
Le and La butter. At colorful garnishes. Gavin Kaysen but when fried (as
restaurants of Spring, an artful This disha achieves something at SFs Monsieur
the 60s. Now presentation Sunday night similar with pured Benjamin) they
theyre on the (above) tilts them special at NYC s potatoes beaten might as well be
menu at Le more avant-garde Augustineshould with cream and a
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMI ROSE

chicken.
Coucou in NYC than bistro. (But be as pale as trs gnreux
with a classic yes, theres still possible, and we helping of Gruyre BELLE CUSHING AND
lobster sauce. butter and garlic.) like it that way. and Fontina. NIKITA RICHARDSON

5. Townsend, Philadelphia 6. Augustine, NYC 7. Marcel, Atlanta 8. Petit Crenn, San Francisco 9. Majorelle, NYC

1 8 A P R I L 2 0 17
 4
STARTERS 4
FRENCH
REVOLUTION
Bartender
Florencia
Garcia s apron
and neck scarf
are custom,
but the rest?
H&M.

The
Outfits
Are How
Trs Fancy French
Food Inspired
French My Salad
From the work- Restaurant
wear coats and aprons
in traditional French by N I C O L A S
blues at Brooklyns JAMMET
Sauvage to the stripes c o - f o u n d e r,
Sw e e t g re e n
at Petit Crenn in
San Francisco to the My parents ran
expat chic boatneck [lauded NYC
restaurant] La Caravelle
T-shirts at Cafe Cluny in the old-school
in NYC, we often mom-and-pop tradition:
come for the rillettes, being there every day,
greeting every
and stay for the customer. During the
fashion inspo. week, even when I was
five or six, if my
brothers and I wanted
to see them, wed put
STAFF AT S on our little suits and
A go eat at the restaurant.
U It was fine French
V foodvery classic.
A The pike quenelle was
G probably my favorite
E dish. And I have such
fond memories of the
Grand Marnier souffl.
The food was so
different than what we
serve at my salad
chain, Sweetgreen, but
the one thing that
connects them is clear:
reverence for real food.
Theres lots of butter
in French cuisine, but
theres this respect
around the butter,
where it came from,
how it was churned.
When we opened
Clockwise Sweetgreen, we didnt
from top: see that care in the
Server Kyle fast-food space. We
Gilstrap; floor wanted to bring that
manager
Gwendolyn respect for ingredients
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU

Stanfield; to make food thats just

bar director as craveable but
Will Elliott without all the butter.

10. Le Coq Rico, NYC 11. Monsieur Benjamin, San Francisco 12. Trois Mec, L.A. 13. Bellecour, Wayzata, MN

2 0 A P R I L 2 0 17
S
T
A Tarragon
R caper
T
E
R
S

2
I Got the
Powder
The pro-level
pantry item you
can bring home

Dehydrator-wielding
chefs have been cooking
with dustsbasically,
tricked-out versions of
those onion and garlic
powders languishing in
your cabinetfor years.
Now you can do the same
at home with new jarred
offerings from Sonomas
Shed restaurant. Stir the
tarragon-caper dust into
butter and rub on roast
chicken, or add the shiitake
to stock for an instant
umami boost. And look for
flavors like sauerkraut,
green garlic, and seaweed
debuting later this year.
PHOTOGRAPH BY VICTOR PRADO. PROP STYLING BY ALEX SILVA.

($15 each; shop

Smoked
.healdsburgshed.com) onion
CHANEY KWAK

Shiitake
mushroom

Nioise
olive
powder

Padrn
chile

2 2 A P R I L 2 0 17
 STARTERS
TRIP

3
OFFS
OBSESSION

Meet The first rule of Vegas travel:

Leave the Strip at least once. And if
Me in you can, get to Spring Mountain
Road. The stretch, which houses some
Vegas of our favorite Japanese restaurants,
has added a new one: Marugame
As we head to
Monzo, an udon specialist from L.A.
town for our Vegas
beloved for its hand-pulled strands. Sit
Uncorkd food
at the picture window to watch cooks
festival, were talking
knead, roll, stretch, dust, and cut the
late-night eats,
noodles (it might be the best show in
off-Strip destinations,
town). The traditional offerings are
andminigolf?
impressive, but its the unconventional
options like miso carbonara and uni
udon that draw crowds. LESLEY BALLA

Beijing
Noodle
No.9

Did AFTER
Somebody Y
zo

PA RT
on

Say Noodles?
M

e Some say Vegas The late-night

a m
ug excels at crowds at the
ar decadencewe
t M Cosmopolitan love
o na say noodles. Three to make a pit stop at
r Ud more to try:
Tige the hotels Eggslut
Mad location on the way
Beijing Noodle back to their rooms
No. 9 (or, you know,

PHOTOGRAPHS: GABY J (MARUGAME MONZO); COURTESY BEIJING NOODLE NO. 9; COURTESY TOPGOLF
Take a break from the next club). And
THREE QUESTIONS the tables at chef Alvin Cailan is
Caesars Palace for happy to oblige,
FOR MARIO CARBONE lan zhoustyle opening his
golf bonanza. Its beef noodle soup. breakfast shop at
The Carbone
chef on his surprising like part driving Monta Ramen midnight on Fridays
Vegas pastime range, part club. This Spring and Saturdays.
Mountain Road Get the Fairfax (soft
What do you do Part club? Its scrambled eggs
ramen joint is a
for fun when right behind one of with cheddar and
favorite among
youre in town? the hotels with the caramelized onions)
locals, especially
Im a very serious afternoon pool with sausage
restaurant-industry
minigolf player. parties. You can and thank us in the
workers who line
You can play pretty hear the music while morning. L.B.
up after their shifts
high-level minigolf. youre knocking
for tonkotsu.
Theres often around golf balls.
gambling involved Then you can go Lotus of Siam
for me. join the party if you Order the khao
want. Thats Las soi, with its chewy
Where do you Vegas in a nutshell. egg noodles, at
play? Topgolf, Topgolf at
INTERVIEW BY the MGM Grand this legendary strip
which is a gigantic NIKITA RICHARDSON mall Thai spot.

Shameless Plug! If authentic udon wasnt enough to get you on a plane, maybe Vegas Uncorkd will be. Were hosting
an epic food event with top chefs April 2730. From a picnic with Alain Ducasse at The Park to the wish-I-had-a-second-stomach
grand tasting at Caesars Palace, its worth the trip. Buy tickets and see the schedule at vegasuncorked.com.

2 4 A P R I L 2 0 17
 S
T
Dorky A
but true: A R
label maker T
would make E
these look R
even better. 2 S

5
MARKET EDITOR: MONICA KHEMSUROV. PHOTOGRAPH BY VICTOR PRADO. PROP STYLING BY ALEX SILVA.

1 3
CROSS FIT FOUR OF A KIND
Keep dried staples These simple
like rice, beans, stoneware canisters
and oatmeal in this have an airtight
4 STAFF PICKS
vintage-inspired silicone gasket for
three-piece ceramic freshness. Set of four
set. Chelsea canister Silo canisters, $50;
set, $61; wayfair.com crateandbarrel.com
Cleaning
2 4 5
House

4
CALLING ALL SET IN STONE KEEP IT SIMPLE
BAKERS Place a trio of This understated
A wide-mouthed top conical jars on your porcelain vessel says, Fact: Its more fun to cook
makes scooping out counter and fill them Ive got it all under when you have a tidy kitchen.
flour or sugar, well, a with snacks youll control. Rosenthal Good thing we found these
piece of cake. Anchor want to access easily. Thomas Loft canister,
Hocking Montana jar, Neutral canisters, $36; bedbathand cute storage containers
$20; oneida.com from $10; cb2.com beyond.com N .R.

A P R I L 2 0 17 2 7
STARTERS

6 Is This the
Future of
Little Big Cooking?
Time A high-tech app knows
Tiny tweezered exactly when to flip a steak
microgreens (basically even if you dont
baby plants with a
more delicate flavor of Ive never made scallops better than

5
their future selves) are the ones I made with the Hestan Cue. Then
no longer reserved again, Ive never made scallops, period.
A SMALL
I have big ambitions in the kitchen but not
for the most rarefied ( G E T I T ?)
big skills, so I was intrigued when my wife,
SAMPLE
restaurants. Now OF MINI Julia Kramersenior projects editor at this
youre as likely to see GREENS magazineasked me to try the Cue. Its
them crowning grain a recipe app linked to a special skillet and
induction burner from Meyer (the company
bowls at healthier- Pea shoots that produces cookware for a slew of
than-thou spots like brands). Its programmed to know that if you
L.A.s Honey Hi. The Shiso want, say, super-crispy skin on a salmon
next place youll see fillet, you should start with a one-minute sear
Bulls in a 435-degree skillet. (And it has the ability
them? The supermarket. blood to set itself to exactly 435 degrees.)
Fiery radish sprouts, beets The Cue looks like the love child of a
vibrant microcelery, Roomba and a hot plate (a compliment, in my
Celer y book). Its stainless-steel skillet seems like any
and others are
other, except for a thicker handle that holds
popping up in the Fennel its hardware. You breeze through the devices
produce section, and iPad recipe app and choose a dish. Hey, Ive
theyre worth buying to always wanted to pan-sear scallops! Click
perk up sandwiches or the recipe, ready the ingredients (sadly, the
tech world has not yet disrupted chopping),
salads. This is huge, and hit the Cues VHS-style play button. IPad
folks. AMIEL STANEK and Roombahot plate sync, and youre off.
So what is cooking like on the Hestan
Cue? Pretty effortless. It maintains the
temperature, obviating a key cooking stressor.
(Does anyone know what medium-high
heat looks like?) When I added the scallops,
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

sensors in the pan communicated with the

induction burner, which then cranked up the
heat to the right temp. The app keeps time and
demos techniques like pounding lemongrass.
I flipped the scallops when directed, basted
when asked, and soon enough: scallops! And
not just any scallops but ones with a gorgeous
golden-brown sear, just like at a restaurant.
Sure, there were a few bugs: The recipe
underquoted the total time required for those,
like myself, who are slow in the prep stages.
And my sauce overreduced (maybe because
I didnt measure my ingredients carefully).
But then a couple of BA food editors started
cooing over my finished dish. That was when
I discovered the Cues best feature: It doesnt
take any credit. ZACHARY KAPLAN
 kitchen RECIPES TIPS MENU IDEAS

What makes these

slices special?
Two kinds of
mozzarella. See
page 32.

Pizza
Rules!

according to
Joe Beddia,
the dough
master behind
Philadelphias cult
favorite, Pizzeria
Beddia. Heres his
(maybe-a-little-
bit-opinionated)
guide to making
pro-level pies
in your home oven

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU A P R I L 2 0 17 31
 k
A BA
KITCHEN
PRIMER
pizza
I D I D N T start out as some
formally trained chef guy.
I brewed beer for a living until
I was almost 30. Sounds like
a dream, doesnt it?
While I was working at a
brewery outside Mito in Japan,
I happened to eat the best
pizza of my life. Best pizza
in Japan? Crazy, right? After
that trip, I knew that I wanted
to concentrate on pizza and
make it in my own highly
personal way. When I returned
to Philly, I opened Pizzeria
Beddia [which Bon Apptit
named the best pizzeria in
the country in 2015].
My methods are old-
school: Use the highest quality
ingredients, make almost
everything from scratch, and
take the time to do it right. You
can make the same great pizza
that I make at the restaurant in
your home, using your regular
oven. Thats how I got my start,
and its why I wrote a book,
Pizza Camp, which comes
out this month. Practiceand,
okay, a few straightforward
guidelinesmakes pizza.
1 2
STOREBOUGHT
PIZZA DOUGH
I S T O T A L LY
COOLIF
YO U H A N D L E
IT RIGHT
I make the dough at Pizzeria
Beddia from scratch, using
organic bread flour, water, sea
salt, fresh cake yeast, sugar,
and extra-virgin olive oil. But
I like the idea of people buying
doughas long as its from a
good pizzeria. No matter what
dough youre working with,
let it come to room temperature
(you want it to be malleable),
and be sure to flour anything the
dough touchesyour counter,
your hands, your peel, if you
have oneto prevent sticking.
3 2 A P R I L 2 0 17
4SIMPLE SAUCE
IS BETTER SAUCE
My sauce recipes are
stupid-easy. The trick for
red sauce is finding good
tomatoes: The ingredients
label should have only salt
and tomatoesno other BS.
To make a white sauce, I just
take heavy cream, add stuff
to it (like herbs in this version),
and whip it in the food
processor until its pretty thick.
RED SAUCE
Whisk one 28-oz. can
crushed tomatoes,
2 finely grated garlic
cloves, 2 Tbsp. olive oil,
and 1 tsp. fine sea salt
in a bowl. Dont be tempted
to add more salt; the flavor
will concentrate when sauce
is baked with pizza. Cover;
chill 3 hours before using.
Beddia s well-floured Makes about 3 cups
hands work the dough.
WHITE SAUCE
Process 2 cups heavy
cream, cup chopped
basil, cup chopped
fennel fronds, cup
chopped chives, 1 tsp.
finely grated lemon
zest, 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon
juice, 1 finely grated
garlic clove, and a pinch
of crushed red pepper
flakes in a food processor
until thick and creamy,
1530 seconds; season
with salt and pepper.
Makes about 2 cups
YOU NEED TWO
KINDS OF MOZZARELLA
I dot the stretched dough with half-
thumb-size pieces of fresh mozzarella
(see photo above), then I top the
rest with shredded low-moisture mozzjust like at
DiFara in Brooklyn. Its not about the ratio; its about
coverage. The mozzarella has to be whole milk.
If youre going to cut calories with the cheese youre
putting on your pizza, youre doing it all wrong. SHREDDED FRESH
3 Cook with the Pizza Top After Cooking
KNOW WHEN TO TOP Thinly sliced asparagus Chopped chives
Some toppings, like hardy greens, are best Boiled, crumbled Paper-thin slices
cooked from the start with the dough. new potatoes of cured meats
But others, like really nice anchovies, you Sauted mushrooms Fresh basil leaves
want to add to the finished cooked pie. Fresh baby spinach Anchovy fillets
 k 5 YO U SHOULD BUY A PIZZA STONE
Dough requires a hot surface to cook on, otherwise it will dry out
A BA
and just be weird. The pizzas not going to be crispy or delicious
KITCHEN
without some sort of stone. But you dont need a fancy one:
PRIMER
pizza The one I like is from New York Bakers; its thicker than the typical
stone. A Great Baking Stone, 20" x 16", $65; nybakers.com 8
PICKLED
CHILES
MAKE
E V E RY T H I N G
BETTER
I really like the
fresh, crunchy,
garlicky flavor of
these pickles.
If you cook them,
they lose that,
so I just add them
to finished pies.

PICKLED
CHILES
Combine
3 smashed
garlic cloves
and 2 Tbsp. fine
sea salt in a
1-qt. glass jar or

7
MEAT SHOULD nonreactive
BE MINIMALIST
container. Add
cup white
I would never order wine vinegar

RED SAUCE, WHITE SAUCE, AND PICKLED CHILES ADAPTED FROM PIZZA CAMP: RECIPES FROM PIZZERIA BEDDIA. COPYRIGHT 2017 BY JOE BEDDIA.
sausage on a pizza; and 2 cups
I think it makes it heavy. hot water. Cover
That being said, I love to layer and shake to
really thin cured meatslike speck, dissolve salt.
prosciutto, or mortadellaatop Add 12 large
a cooked pizza. They melt a little bit, serrano chiles or
and you get a subtle flavor, a little jalapeos, thinly
bit of fat, and that smoky porkiness. sliced into rings,
I think less is more with everything. to brine, cover
jar, and let sit at
room temperature
2 days
6 T R E A T Y O U R P I Z Z A L I K E I T S PA S T A before using.

PUBLISHED BY ABRAMS. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
Do ahead:
And by that I mean finish it with aged cheese and olive oil. I use a nice, Chiles can be
simple California arbequina olive oil, and I grate Old Gold cheese pickled 2 weeks
from Hidden Hills Dairy in Pennsylvania on top. (Parm would be good ahead. Chill after
too.) Sure, theres already cheese on the pizza, but that last dusting letting sit at room
at the end adds a little richness. Its just like adding Parmesan to pasta temperature
at the table; if you cooked the cheese into the pasta, it just wouldnt 2 days. Makes
have the same fresh flavor. MORTADELLA about 2 cups

9
NATURAL WINE IS MADE FOR PIZZA

I really hate beer with pizza. Why PIZZA CAMP

would you drink carbs when youre by joe beddia
For step-
eating carbs? Wine is not heavy, it by-step
instructions
goes great with tomato sauce, and it refreshes on making
the dough
and cleanses the palatenatural wine in from scratch,
particular. I like a sparkling wine or a light pick up
a copy of
red (the kind you can see through): They just the book
(Abrams; $30).
find a way to meld with what youre eating.
3 4 A P R I L 2 0 17
k DINNER
TONIGHT

One-Skillet
Suppers
Call it ingenuity or just an
intense aversion to washing dishes,
but when senior food editor
Claire Saffitz cooks at home, the 68 minutes. Turn smells toasty, about
Chicken with chicken skin side 3 minutes. Pour
whole meal comes together in up and bake in in cup dry white
a single cast-iron pan Buttery Orzo oven, uncovered, wine and cook,
Preheat oven to until cooked through, stirring, until liquid
400. Pat dry 1015 minutes. is evaporated, about
6 skin-on, bone-in Transfer to a plate. 1 minute. Starting
chicken thighs Meanwhile, chop with 2 cups low-
(about 2 lb. total); 1 fennel bulb, sodium chicken
season all over with then chop fronds and broth, add cup
salt and pepper. set aside. Remove at a time, stirring
Heat 2 Tbsp. and discard dark and letting absorb
unsalted butter in green top from 1 leek; before adding
a medium skillet, chop up whats left. more, until pasta is
preferably cast iron, Place fennel tender and broth
over medium-high. and leek in same is mostly absorbed,
Nestle chicken, skin skillet; set over 1015 minutes.
side down, in skillet medium heat. Season Remove from heat
in a single layer with salt and pepper and season with
with no gaps (if they and cook, tossing salt and pepper.
dont all quite fit, occasionally, until Mix in 1 Tbsp. lemon
wait until chicken leek is golden around juice and 1 Tbsp.
shrinks slightly, then the edges, about unsalted butter,
As much as puzzle in the rest). 5 minutes. Add 8 oz. then fennel fronds.
we love this Cook until meat is orzo; cook, stirring Pile chicken on top
10" Lodge opaque around the occasionally, until and finish with 1 tsp.
cast-iron skillet, edges and skin is pasta is darkened to finely grated lemon
these recipes deep golden brown, a nutty brown and zest. 4 servings
will turn out
great in any
ovenproof
stainless pan.

3 6 A P R I L 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
 k C O O K S N O T E S 1 This mustard sauce is meant to have some zing, but if you want
DINNER less heat, swap smoked paprika for the cayenne. Frozen peas are like spring
TONIGHT in a bagminus the time-consuming shelling. Boneless cuts of steak like New York
strip or flank steak are good for weeknights: They cook quickly and evenly.
4
Any leftover steak and mustard sauce make for excellent next-day sandwiches.

Spring Fling
While youre waiting for favas
and ramps to show up at the
market, cheat the season with
asparagus and frozen peas

Steak and Spring Veg

with Spicy Mustard
4 S E RV I N G S

1 1-lb. boneless New York strip

steak, patted dry
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
5 garlic cloves, 1 grated,
4 thinly sliced
cup Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or
red wine vinegar
1 tsp. honey
12 pinches cayenne pepper1
cup plus 3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 bunch scallions,
thinly sliced, divided
1 10-oz. bag frozen peas
1 bunch asparagus, trimmed,
cut into 1" pieces

Season steak all over with salt and

pepper. Whisk grated garlic, mustard,
vinegar, honey, cayenne, cup oil,
and 1 Tbsp. water in a medium bowl
to combine; season spicy mustard
with salt and pepper.
Heat a dry medium skillet, preferably
cast iron, over medium-high. Rub steak
all over with 1 Tbsp. oil and cook,
turning every 2 minutes or so and making
sure to get color on the fat cap, until
medium-rare (an instant-read
thermometer inserted into the center will
register 120), about 10 minutes.
Transfer steak to a plate to rest. Pour off
oil from skillet, leaving crispy bits behind.
Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in same
skillet over low. Add sliced garlic and all
but about 2 Tbsp. scallions (save those
for serving) and cook, stirring often,
until translucent and softened, about
3 minutes. Add peas and a splash of
water and cook, stirring and mashing to
break up slightly, until peas are tender,
about 5 minutes. Add asparagus; season
with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring
often, until asparagus is just tender,
about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
Slice steak and shingle over
vegetables in skillet. Drizzle some
mustard sauce over steak and top with
reserved scallions. Serve with
remaining mustard sauce alongside.4

3 8 A P R I L 2 0 17
 k C O O K S N O T E S 1 This is a highly interpretive
DINNER take on mu-shu pork, one of my favorite dishes.
TONIGHT Doctoring up fresh sausage is faster than starting
with ground meat. Trying to clear out your
fridge? Add extra veg along with the mushrooms.
Stir-Fry Shortcut
Saut hot Italian sausage meat
with ginger and garlic, mix with
veg, and dinners a wrap!
Hot Sausage and Cabbage
Stir-Fry with Chives1
4 S E RV I N G S
1 1" piece ginger, peeled,
finely grated
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 lb. hot Italian sausage,
casings removed
2 Tbsp. (or more) vegetable oil
6 oz. shiitake mushrooms,
thinly sliced
6 cups very thinly sliced Napa
cabbage, divided
2 Tbsp. seasoned rice vinegar
2 Tbsp. soy sauce
cup thinly sliced chives
4 0 A P R I L 2 0 17
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
2 tsp. sesame seeds
8 large flour tortillas or mu-shu
wraps, warmed
Hoisin sauce and Sriracha
(for serving)
Using your hands or a wooden spoon,
work ginger and garlic into sausage in
a medium bowl. Heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable
oil in a large skillet, preferably cast
iron, over medium-high and cook sausage
mixture, breaking up with a wooden
spoon, until browned, crisp, and cooked
through, 68 minutes. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer sausage mixture to
a clean bowl.
Increase heat to high and cook
mushrooms in the fat in the skillet,
tossing often, until browned and starting
to release their juices, about 4 minutes
(if skillet looks dry at any point, add
a bit more oil). Add half of cabbage
and cook, tossing often, until cabbage
is wilted and tender, about 4 minutes.
Drizzle in vinegar and soy sauce
and cook, tossing, until liquid is mostly
reduced and skillet is dry in spots,
about 2 minutes.
Remove skillet from heat and mix
chives, sausage, and remaining cabbage
into stir-fry. Drizzle with sesame oil
and sprinkle with sesame seeds.
Serve stir-fry with tortillas, hoisin
sauce, and Sriracha for making
individual wraps.
 k C O O K S N O T E S 1If you dont have pomegranate seeds,
DINNER use dried currants or raisins. I make extra of this lemon-
TONIGHT garlic yogurt and use it for dayson anything from baked
potatoes to seared fish. Make sure the chickpeas are really
dry so they take on color and start to crisp in the skillet.

Go Whole Squash
Stop struggling to peel and
slice superfirm squash. Just
roast it whole, tear up the flesh,
then sear it off in a skillet
Roasted Butternut Squash
with Spiced Chickpeas
4 S E RV I N G S
1 small butternut squash
(about 1 lb.)
cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
5 garlic cloves, 1 finely grated,
4 chopped
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided,
plus more for drizzling
1 15-oz. can chickpeas,
rinsed, patted dry
1
2
medium onion, chopped
Tbsp. vadouvan or curry powder
2 radishes, trimmed, very thinly sliced
1 cup parsley, mint, and/or
cilantro leaves
2 Tbsp. pomegranate seeds1
(optional)
Preheat oven to 425. Roast squash
directly on oven rack until a paring knife
poked through skin easily slides through
flesh, 5065 minutes. Let squash cool
until you can handle. Trim ends, halve
lengthwise, and scoop out seeds. Tear or
cut squash into large pieces; discard
skin (it will come off easily as you tear).
Meanwhile, mix yogurt, grated garlic,
and 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a medium
bowl; season with salt and pepper.
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet,
preferably cast iron, over medium-high.
Cook chickpeas, shaking skillet often,
until starting to brown and crisp, about
5 minutes. Add onion and chopped
garlic and cook, stirring often, until onion
is translucent, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle
in vadouvan and cook, stirring, until
chickpeas and onion are coated and
mixture is fragrant, about 1 minute.
Season with salt and pepper and transfer
to a medium bowl. Wipe out skillet.
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in same skillet over
medium-high. Cook squash pieces, cut
side down, undisturbed, until browned
and caramelized, about 5 minutes.
Turn pieces over, remove from heat, and
season with salt and pepper. Spoon
chickpea mixture over squash, then dollop
reserved lemon-garlic yogurt around.
Toss radishes, herbs, and
pomegranate seeds, if using, with
remaining 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a
small bowl; drizzle with a splash of
oil and season with salt and pepper.
Scatter over squash and chickpeas.
Finish with a grind or two of pepper.

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI

k HEALTHYISH

Steam
Power
Its a lightning-fast tool
for cooking virtuous meals.
So isnt it about time we
re-embrace the steamer?
by CHRISTINA CHAEY

Set in a shallow skillet of

T W O Y E A R S AG O I threw
a D.I.Y. soup-dumpling party
that required me to buy an array
A simple of kitchen tools I fully expected
metal steamer never to use again: small
basket does wooden dowels, plastic soup
the trick, but spoons, and a two-tiered
we cant resist bamboo steamer. Though I was
this gorgeous
Jia steamer mostly right (why, oh why,
($139; shop did I think it was a good idea to
simmering water or broth,
a steamer effortlessly transforms
the humblest ingredients into
a meal: a hunk of firm tofu with
toasted sesame oil and soy
sauce; a pile of steamed sliced
squash ready to be drizzled
with a miso-spiked dressing; even
a few emergency frozen pork
dumplings. The combination of
water and heat makes quick
work of even the heartiest chunks
of turnips or beetsand it
does so without a drop of oil.
Unlike, say, sauting, the
process is almost entirely hands-
off. Cooking with a steamer
embodies the ease of a
microwave dinner but leaves
you with a tangle of vibrant,
nutrient-dense vegetables
instead of a mound of droopy
mystery items that once
resembled carrots. Now to find
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI

horne.com). buy a 12-pack of Chinese-style a use for those soup spoons

soup spoons?), that steamer has
become my shortcut to getting
dinner on the table when
the last thing I want to do is, you
know, get dinner on the table.
Find the recip e f or these
s t e a m e d ve g e t a b l e s w i t h
miso-ginger dressing a t
behea lth yish .com/ stea mer

4 6 A P R I L 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU
k H O L I D AY
SPECIAL

Have
Your Cake
How to choose between
Using coconut oil instead
Passover coconut macaroons of butter is a win-win.
and flourless chocolate Its not only dairy-free and
cake? Make this hybrid instead pareve, but it makes the
cake incredibly moist.
b y C L A I R E SA F F I T Z In fact, this dessert gets
better the longer it sits, so
make it a day ahead!
Toasting the skin-on
almonds before grinding
them adds a savory
depth to the cake, balancing
out the sweetness.

Many Passover cakes

are lightened by beating
egg whites separately.
Our cake forgoes this
step, yielding a denser
slice. Find out more in
Prep School, page 112.
This cake is all about the
chocolate flavor, so seek
out the best-quality bars
and cocoa you can find.

The ganache will start

to set up immediately once
it thickens, so spread it
on the (completely cooled)
cake as soon as youre
done beating it.

4 8 A P R I L 2 0 17
 k TOP IT
H O L I D AY
SPECIAL
passover
Chocolate Macaroon Cake
10 SERVINGS This is a cake version of the
chocolate-dipped coconut macaroons
that are a Passover staple. Any nut will
work in place of the almonds.
CAKE
1 cup virgin coconut oil, melted,
cooled, plus more for pan
cup unsweetened cocoa powder,
plus more for pan
1 cup skin-on almonds
8 oz. semisweet or bittersweet
chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 tsp. kosher salt
cup unsweetened
shredded coconut
6 large eggs, room temperature
cup granulated sugar
cup (packed) light brown sugar
2 tsp. vanilla extract
GA N AC H E A N D ASS E M B LY
4 oz. semisweet or bittersweet
chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp. light agave nectar
or pure maple syrup
Pinch of kosher salt
cup unsweetened coconut milk
(from a very well
shaken 13.5-oz. can)
Almond-Coconut Clusters
(see recipe above; for serving)
5 0 A P R I L 2 0 17
Toss 2 Tbsp. unsweetened coconut akes, 1 Tbsp.
WITH sliced almonds, 1 tsp. granulated sugar, and
ALMOND 1 tsp. light agave nectar or pure maple syrup on
COCONUT a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and toast
CLUSTERS in a 350 oven until golden, about 4 minutes. Let cool
before breaking up into smaller clusters.
C A K E Place a rack in middle of oven
and preheat to 350. Lightly brush
a 10"-diameter cake pan with oil. Line
the bottom with a round of parchment;
brush parchment with oil. Dust sides of
pan with cocoa powder; tap out excess.
Toast almonds on a rimmed baking
sheet, tossing once, until fragrant and
slightly darkened, 810 minutes. Let
cool. Reduce oven temperature to 325.
Meanwhile, heat chocolate and
1 cup oil in a medium heatproof bowl
set over a saucepan of barely simmering
water (dont let the bowl touch the
water), stirring often, until mixture is
smooth. Remove from heat.
Pulse almonds, salt, and cup
cocoa in food processor until nuts are
finely ground. Add shredded coconut
and pulse a few times to combine.
Beat eggs on medium speed in the
bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
whisk attachment until no longer streaky,
about 20 seconds. Add both sugars
and vanilla, increase speed to high, and
beat until mixture is pale, thick, and starts
to hold the marks of the whisk, about
2 minutes (it should fall off the whisk and
immediately sink back into itself). Switch
to the paddle attachment and, with mixer
on low speed, gradually add chocolate
mixture. Beat to incorporate, then mix in
almond mixture. Fold batter several times
with a rubber spatula, making sure to
scrape the bottom and sides. Scrape
batter into prepared pan; smooth top.
Bake cake until firm to the touch and
a tester inserted into the center comes
out clean but greasy, 3545 minutes.
Transfer pan to a wire rack and let cake
cool 1520 minutes in pan. (Cake might
fall slightly in the center: Its okay!) Run
a paring knife or small offset spatula
around edges of cake; invert onto rack.
Carefully peel away parchment; let
cake cool completely.
D O A H E A D : Cake can be baked 1
day ahead. Store tightly covered at room
temperature until ready to assemble.
GA N AC H E A N D ASS E M B LY Combine
chocolate, agave nectar, and salt
in a medium bowl. Bring coconut milk to
a simmer in a small saucepan over low
heat; pour over chocolate mixture. Let sit
until chocolate is melted, about 5 minutes.
Using an electric mixer on medium
speed, beat ganache until it has lost its
sheen and is thick enough to hold very
soft peaks, 68 minutes (it wont be quite
as thick as frosting but close).
Working quickly before ganache
starts to seize, scrape on top of cake
and spread to edges with a small
offset spatula or knife. Top cake with
Almond-Coconut Clusters.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI.
 N O T E S F R OM MY T E S T K I T C H E N

Cauliflower
steaks plus walnut
salsa equals
one very satisfying
dinner. Read
on for the recipe.

the other kind of steak night

You know who doesnt mess around when
it comes to cauliflower? Yotam Ottolenghi
5 2 A P R I L 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H BY A L E X L AU
N O T E S F R OM MY T E S T K I T C H E N

3THE SALSA
When I started writing recipes more than a decade ago, the humble
cauliflower needed a fair amount of flag-waving. Nowadays its been The creamy cauliflower-tahini pure calls
w claimed as much by those who like to grate things raw as by those
who like to chargrill things hot. Cauliflower tabbouleh, cauliflower
out for color, freshness, acidity, and
crunch. My solution: coarsely chopped
rice, whole-roasted cauliflower, cauliflower fritters and soups and parsley, a splash of sherry vinegar, a
puresthis is a bandwagon Im very happy to be on board. I particularly love sprinkling of fried capers, and a handful
cauliflower steaks: Their texture is meaty enough to really satisfy, but, at the same of toasted walnuts, all mixed together in
time, the flavor is not so dominant that you cant have a lot of fun with a punchy a simple salsa to be spooned on top. A
sauce (see Walnut-Caper Salsa) or a creamy accompaniment like this Cauliflower final burst of sweetness is the last note
Pure. Ormy preferenceboth. asking to be added. Thats where dried
currants come in, bringing the whole
thing together.
The combination of the salsa, the cauli-
flower steaks, and the pure reminds me
1T H E S T E A KS 2THE PURE
how far this vegetable has come from being
These always look beautiful, especially if After slicing the steaks, Im usually left in need of championing. Its now waving
they still have some of their inner leaves, with a bunch of cauliflower trimmings. the flag all by itself.
which char so well. For a quick supper at While I could save these for a salad or
home, I often just eat a couple of the snack, I like the sense of completion you
steaks, either seared as outlined here or get by using the whole of something WALNUTCAPER SALSA
cooked in a grill pan (if I want some nice in just one dish. This thinking led me
black lines) before finishing them off in to the pure. cup walnuts
the oven. Then I simply enjoy them with Mashed cauliflower can be nice as is, cup olive oil
a squeeze of lemon or a drizzle of tahini but it lacks the rich creaminess I want 2 Tbsp. drained capers, patted dry
sauce and a sprinkle of toasted nuts. in my pure. Its a very short, logical 1 Fresno chile, seeds removed,
step in my mind from rich creaminess finely chopped
to tahini, so reaching for a tub at this 3 Tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley
C A U L I F LO W E R S T E A KS stage seems pretty knee-jerk. More often 1 Tbsp. dried currants
than not, Ill spoon tahini over the top 1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or
1 small head of cauliflower of wedges of roasted eggplant or but- red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. olive oil ternut squash, but in this case, theres 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter enough richness in the steaks (thank you, Kosher salt
2 sprigs oregano butter) to allow the tahini to be more of
2 3" strips lemon zest a back note. Preheat oven to 350. Toast walnuts
Kosher salt The mash is good enough to eat on on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once,
its own, so save any leftovers: It keeps until golden brown, 710 minutes.
Preheat oven to 425. Remove only the in the fridge for a couple of days and Let cool, then coarsely chop.
toughest outer leaves from cauliflower can be either eaten as ison toast or as Meanwhile, heat oil and capers in
(keep any tender inner leaves attached). an alternative to hummusor warmed a small saucepan over medium, swirling
Trim stem to create a flat base. Resting through and served with sausages. around in pan often, until capers burst
cauliflower on stem, cut in half from top and are golden brown and crisp, about
to bottom, creating two lobes with stem 5 minutes. Carefully pour oil and capers
attached. Cut off outer rounded edge CAULIFLOWER PURE into a small heatproof bowl and let cool.
of each piece to create two 1"-thick Mix walnuts, chile, parsley, currants,
steaks. (See Prep School, p. 112, for 1 cups reserved chopped cauliflower vinegar, and lemon zest into cooled caper
step-by-step details.) Very coarsely chop (from cauliflower steaks) mixture; season salsa with salt.
remaining florets (you should have about Kosher salt D O A H E A D : Salsa can be made 1 day
1 cups). Set florets aside for making 1 garlic clove, finely grated ahead. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing
Cauliflower Pure. 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice directly onto surface, and chill. Bring to
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium- 2 Tbsp. tahini room temperature before using.
high. Add butter and swirl until melted,
then add cauliflower steaks, oregano, Cook cauliflower in a large saucepan of
and lemon zest. Cook, gently lifting up boiling salted water until very tender, 68 PUT IT ALL TOGETHER
cauliflower occasionally to let hot fat run minutes. Drain; pulse in a food processor
underneath, until steaks are deep golden with garlic, lemon juice, tahini, and 1 Tbsp. To serve 2, spoon about cup
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI

brown (if oregano or lemon starts
to burn, place on top of steaks). Turn;
season with salt. Transfer skillet to
oven and roast until stems are fork-
tender, 1015 minutes.
water until smooth. Season with salt.
D O A H E A D : Pure can be made 3 days
ahead. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing
directly onto surface, and chill. Bring to
room temperature before using.
Cauliflower Pure onto each plate and
place Cauliflower Steaks on top. Spoon
some salsa over and sprinkle with salt.
Serve with lemon wedges alongside for
squeezing over.

5 4 A P R I L 2 0 17
 city guides
KYOTO

The monumentous
matcha kakigri
(a.k.a. shaved
ice) from Pass
the Baton.

Ready, Set, Kyoto!

In Japans prettiest city, the train station is filled with ramen, the tofu is plentiful,
and its easy to get a taste of what this countrys food is really all about
By CAREY P OLIS

5 8 A P R I L 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H S BY WA K I H A M ATS U
 k Takahiko Yamanaka gets
silly outside his namesake
CITY GUIDES tonkatsu joint. Below:
k yoto A Manmaru no Tsuki
pancake; firefly squid
at Nishiki Market.

I F T O K YO I S N E W YO R K
CITY with more neon and sake,
then Kyoto is Seattle with extra
shrines and temples. Its a city
so calming that at first you dont
notice the buzzing food scene
that lies beneath. Amid geisha
houses and cobblestone streets,
youll find every possible
Japanese food you crave (and
some you didnt know you
craved) without the frenzy of
Tokyo, nearly three hours to the
northeast by bullet train. Walk
around Kyoto or, better yet,
grab a bikethere are rentals
everywhere. Because for
all the grilled chicken skewers,
crispy pork, and noodles
youre about to enjoy, itll be
wise to keep moving. Heres
where to stop along the way.

1KAISEKI BUT
MODERN
This Japanese city is basically
devoted to keeping history alive
sono surpriseits the place
to go for kaiseki, the elaborate
hours-long traditional meal based
on seasonality. At G i ro G i ro
H it o sh i n a , they strip away the
pretense and high cost and sub in
younger chefs, booze, and an
open kitchen surrounded by dark
wood counters and bar-style
seating. The multicourse dinner
might include the tiniest fried squid
youve ever seen or a seasonal
tempura with green peas and
shrimp. Its boisterous, perennially
popular, and the one reservation
you must absolutely book!
2SLURP EM ALL UP
If you want to, you can
subsist solely on this holy trinity
of iconic dishes:
U D O N : Order the thick wheat-
flour noodles cold at O men ,
where they are slippery
but sturdy, optimal for dipping
into broth on the side.
S O B A : At H on ke O war i ya
which reportedly started making
soba for the Imperial Palace
back in the 1700slocals gulp
the buckwheat noodles rapidly,
else they lose their texture. But the
best part might be the soothing,
restorative soba-water elixir thats
served at the end of the meal;
think bone broth but milder.
R A M E N : Some of the best is and a heavy sprinkle of dried
located right inside Kyoto Station . seaweed crowning the top.
Eight stalls each serve a different Its on the menu with a variety of
regional version, from Sapporos other pancakes, like the Kyoto-
famous miso ramen to pork belly style negiyaki, which has a thinner
laden kitakata ramen from the profile. Guests typically enjoy
Fukushima region to the Toyama them while resting on cozy floor
precincts ominous black ramen, mats, often amid a few rounds of
so named for its soy sauce broth. cheap beer. No napping, please!
3 S AY I T W I T H U S :
O KO N O M I YA K I
Uni with shisoone more
This classic savory pancake totally valid Nishiki snack.
combines pork, shrimp, cabbage,
and more for a messy, gooey
afternoon snack. At Ma nma ru
no Tsuki , this flavorful mash-up
is turned into a masterpiece,
crafted in a pristine circle with
parallel streaks of mayonnaise

Sweet potato Preserved daikon

Ma rke t A s s e t s hand pie Sashimi skewers
The Nishiki Market is not just one of the best markets Shiso rice cakes Chocolate clairs
in Japan, its one of the best markets period. The clean, Pickled gourds in
covered outdoor space offers excellent seafood, salty Takoyaki (fried
sake dregs octopus dough balls)
snacks galore, and pickled everything. Jostle for space at
the stalls with locals and chefs, who come early. At right, Green tea mochi Baby squid stuffed
See Sourcebook (page 116)
our totally arbitrary list of delicacies worth seeking out: Sesame soft-serve with a quail egg to find addresses and contact
information for all locations.

6 0 A P R I L 2 0 17
 k
CITY GUIDES
k yoto
4 G E T T H AT YA K I T O R I
H it o mi serves the most
mouthwatering chicken youll
ever have, mostly in grilled
skewer form. Theres a bowl of
crisp chicken skin with ponzu
and grated radish that makes
you wonder why you ever wasted
your time with any other fried
chicken before it. Chefs also
sear chicken necks, legs, hearts,
and, if youre in the mood to
chew, deceptively tasty cartilage,
all cooked over an open flame.
5MAKE YOUR
OWN SUSHI
D.I.Y. rolls that dont feel totally
kitschy? Its possible. At Awomb ,
a restaurant and store selling
minimalist ceramics, sushi is
deconstructed on a large slate.
The fish, seasoning, and veg are
portioned out like an artists palette,
with nori, rice, and a bamboo
roller on the side. Usual suspects
(salmon, say, or bonito) end
up in the same bite as things like
sweet potato and lotus root.
Dont forget to gram it all first.
6 T E A U P, T W O WAYS
Its surprising that Kyotos Kamo
River isnt tinted green from all
the matcha that flows through this
city. That said, these are the two
ultimate ways to dive in:
O G : At Ka gi z e n Yos h i f u s a
H o nte n , the matcha is thick,
and the servers wear traditional
costumes. Sip your hot, grassy
brew slowly for something
restorative, or opt for the iced
matcha with simple syrup.
6 2 A P R I L 2 0 17
Clockwise from top lef t:
A local Blue Steel-ing
with octopus on a
stick at Nishiki Market;
a kuzukiri noodle
ser vice at the Kagizen
Yoshifusa Honten
teahouse; designing
sushi at Awomb.
M O D E R N : The hip locals who
haunt Pa s s t he B a t o n , a
teahouse-meets-vintage-store
on a charming street in the heart
of Gion, go for the massive
matcha kakigri (shaved ice).
Then perhaps they try on some
costume jewelry and retro pumps.
7TOFU LIKE
YO U V E N E V E R
TOFUD BEFORE
Going to Kyoto without eating
tofu is like going to Paris and not
savoring a croissant. S horaia n ,
devoted to all things soy, is
a tranquil culinary temple in the
citys famous bamboo forest.
Remove your shoes, sit on tatami
mats, and find yourself whispering
to your companions as you drink
tea, stare out the window at the
i River, and sample these styles:
Y U D O F U : Tofu in its simplest form,
its boiled in hot water along
with a sheet of kombu. It proves
just how exceptional tofu can
actually be, from the silken texture
to the clean taste.
AG E DAS H I : Soft tofu coated in
potato starch, then fried and
topped with scallions, for dipping
into a dashi-soy-mirin broth.
Y U B A : Layers of tofu skin that are
almost burrata-esque in taste,
like a softer, creamier version of
phyllo dough.
I C E C R E A M : Yep! Its supersmooth
and vanilla-like in flavor but less
overpoweringly sweet.
Catch your breath
along the Katsura River.
What
Are You
Drinking?
Dont just walk into any bar
in Kyotofind one that has
a particular boozy specialty.
for sake
The quiet eight-seat
Yora mu is helmed by an
Israeli expat who schools you
in the right way to choose
brewed rice wine. Flights are
under $15; flavors range
from coconut to mushroom.
for gin
Daytime smoothie caf
Nokishita 711 morphs into
a tiny bar at night, with an
impressive selection of global
craft gin. Cocktails are the
move here, like the Laundry &
Tonic, made with lavender
gin, rosemary, and pepper.
for beer
At Bef ore9 , there are
eight Japanese brews on tap,
such as Whole-Heartedness,
a Kyoto-made IPA. The lounge
plays classic samurai movies
and serves solid fries, too.
8 I T S C R U N C H T I M E
Youll find tonkatsu spots busy
at all hours; these juicy pork cutlets
with crispy-crackling panko crust
are religion in Japan. Ya ma naka
is a small spot where the chef
has specialized in pork for half
a century. He doesnt speak
English, but hell still find a way
to communicate as he points out
his cheeky pictures of Babe and
Miss Piggy adorning the walls.
PUT
H
UG
A NA
AV

C
D
TE
by
s
ph
gra
pho t o

AN
EGG
by
C H RIS MO
RO
C CO an d A M I E L S
TA
N
EK

ON
IT
Were living in an egg-topped age, folks.
Rice bowls. Toast. Pasta. Salads. Whether crispy-fried
or jammy-yolked, lovingly poached or boiled
and cured, the humble egg has gone from breakfast
staple to an all-day superstar, and weve got
the recipes and tricks you need to get in on the fun
Want to learn to
poach like a pro?
We got you.

67
 the The unmistakable crack of shell meeting countertop. The waves-crashing-on-sand
rumble of egg slipping into hot olive oil. The rolling rat-a-tat sputter of white and

cris
yolk dancing ecstatically in the pan. Making a perfect fried eggcrisp, rippling edges;
warm, molten yolkshould make your heart race a little. And so should eating one,
whether youre fork-and-knifing it au naturel with salt and hot sauce or enjoying it on
top of a more elaborate creation. Heres how to shift your eggs into sport mode.

py
fry

U S E
T H E M !

Top a seared
skirt steak!
b u rg e r !
Put on a
Amp up
fried rice!
Tuck in
to
b re a k f a
a s t B LT
!

Fried Egg Flatbreads with

Nduja and Mustard Greens?
Yes, please! Find the recipe
at bonappetit.com
/fried-egg-flatbread

P R O T I P Go hot or go home! You want the oil in your pan to be almost smoking before those eggs go in, especially if youre using anything other
than a nonstick skillet or well-seasoned cast ironcold whites hitting a not-hot-enough stainless-steel pan are going to stick.
 THE
TECHNIQUE
1 In a medium,
preferably nonstick
skillet, heat enough olive
oil to just cover the
bottom of the pan over
medium-high until
shimmering. (A 10" skillet
fits 2 eggs; scale up if
you want to cook more.)
It may look like a lot
of oil, but youll need it.

2 Add 2 large eggs,

one at a time and
spacing evenly apart,
shaking pan gently
between additions to
allow edges to set
without sticking together.

3 Cook eggs, shaking

pan occasionally (and
using a rubber spatula
to help tease apart any
edges if needed)
until edges are golden
brown, about 2 minutes.

4 Tilt the pan toward

you to pool oil at base
and using a soup spoon,
baste egg whites
(avoiding the yolks; you
want them runny) with
the hot oil to cook them
anywhere they are
still translucent, about
1 minute more.

5 Season eggs with

salt and eat immediately.

69
 Some say that a hard-boiled egg is neither
hard nor boiled, but we disagree. You need
to maintain a gentle boil to ensure that the water
youre cooking in is the proper temperature
(212 Fahrenheit). And while our ten-minute
eggs arent hard per sewe like a touch
of creaminess at the very centertheyre firm
enough to be egg-saladable. These might
not have the same sex appeal as their jammy-

the
yolked counterparts, but its their versatility that
gets us going, ready at a moments notice to be
pickled, transformed into a goes-on-everything
sauce, or just salted and eaten standing over
the sink to stave off a hangry state of panic.

hard
o i l
THE
TECHNIQUE
Bring a large saucepan
b
of water to a boil over
medium-high. (A 2-quart
saucepan should be large
enough for up to 8 eggs.)
Carefully lower eggs
into water using a slotted
spoon. Cook 10 minutes,
maintaining a gentle boil.
Transfer to an ice bath or
very cold water and let cool
until just slightly warm,
about 2 minutesthis stops
the eggs from cooking
further and makes them
easier to peel. Gently crack
eggs all over and peel,
starting from the fattest end
containing the air pocket.
Refrigerate if not using right
away. Do ahead: Eggs can
be cooked up to 1 week
ahead. Cover and chill.
 U S E
T H E M !

Slice and layer

on a sandwich!

Make egg salad!

Devil em!

Sieve and sp
rinkle
over vinaig
rette -
dressed ve
getables!

1
Pickled Eggs
Combine 1 cup distilled
white vinegar, 2 Tbsp.
kosher salt, 2 Tbsp.
light brown sugar, and
1 cup water in a small
saucepan. Add one of
the following depending
on the color you want:
2 small red beets,
shredded on a
box grater, 2 Tbsp.
ground turmeric, or
1 cup blackberries.
Heat over medium
until hot. Remove
brine from heat.
Tap 6 unpeeled
Hard-Boiled Eggs
(see method on opposite
Gribiche
Dressing
Whisk 6 chopped
cornichons, cup
olive oil, 2 Tbsp. white
Spoon this wine vinegar, 1 Tbsp.
substantial dressing whole grain mustard,
on any roasted, and 1 Tbsp. chopped
grilled, or sauted drained capers in
spring veg for a small bowl to emulsify;
a punchy finisher. season with salt and
pepper. Gently mix
3 coarsely chopped
Hard-Boiled Eggs
(see method on opposite
page) and 2 Tbsp.
chopped herbs (like
tarragon or parsley)
into dressing. Taste
and adjust seasoning

2
page) to crack shell if needed.
all over but keep intact. Do ahead: Dressing
Add eggs to brine can be made 2 days
and chill at least 8 hours ahead. Cover and
and up to 3 days. chill. Bring to room
Remove eggs from brine temperature before
and peel. 6 servings using. 4 servings

P R O T I P Some eggs just peel more easily than others, but older ones generally peel betterthats the one drawback to fresh farmers market eggs.
Shocking the eggs in ice water definitely helps, but if your shell is very stubborn, try peeling under running water.
the perfect h
ac
The ideal poached egg is as beautiful and fleeting as
a shooting stara warm bundle of fluid yolk encased by

p o
a barely-set-yet-tenacious white. It feels kind of tragic to
have to spear it and set all that yellow sauciness coursing
out, but thats what its all about: rich yolk soaking into
your slice of crusty toast, or coating a pile of roasted
veggies, or working its way into a pile of steaming,
seasoned sushi rice. And while eating a poached egg
may feel downright magical, you dont have to be a
wizard to pull off the actual cooking, as nerve-racking as
it may seem. Just follow these steps and youre golden.

U S E
T H E M !

Slide onto a
slab of toast!

, duh!
Eggs Benny
Perch on top of a
grain-and-veggie bowl!

Hide in
a tang
o f wa r le
m g re e
ns!

P R O T I P Some cooks like to add vinegar to their poaching water, which does help set the whites, but it also makes your eggs taste like, well, vinegar.
Add a few tablespoons of distilled white vinegar to the water if you insist, but gently rinse the eggs afterward to get rid of that acidic flavor.
 THE
TECHNIQUE
1 Bring at least 3" of
water to a gentle simmer
in a large saucepan.
Crack 1 egg into a fine-
mesh sieve set over
a bowl. Let watery white
run through into bowl
below; carefully transfer
egg to a small bowl.

2 Make a gentle
vortex in the saucepan
by stirring with a slotted
spoon. Tip egg into
center of vortex and
continue to swirl water
gently with spoon to help
set the white around the
yolk. Repeat with up to
3 more eggs. (Youll need
a larger pan to cook
more than 4 at a time.)

3 Cook until whites

are just set (lift out of
water with slotted spoon
to check) but yolks are
still very soft, about
If you want to get 2 minutes from the time
really fancy, use eggs hit the water.
scissors to carefully
trim any feathery 4 T ransfer to a
bits of white before warm plate if serving
serving. immediately or to
an ice bath to save for
later use. Repeat with
remaining eggs. Season
with salt and pepper
just before serving.

DO AHEAD
Eggs can be poached
1 day ahead. Cover and
refrigerate in water.
Heat in barely simmering
water for 1 minute
before serving.

73
 the
jammy THE
TECHNIQUE
Bring a large saucepan
of water to a boil over
medium-high. (A 2-quart
saucepan should be large
enough for up to 8 eggs.)
Carefully lower eggs
into water using a slotted
spoon. Cook 6 minutes,
maintaining a gentle boil.
Transfer to an ice bath or
very cold water and chill

soft il
until eggs are just slightly
warm, about 2 minutes
this stops the eggs from
cooking further and makes
them easier to peel.
Gently crack eggs all over

o
and peel, starting from
the fattest end containing

b
the air pocket. Eat
immediately, or refrigerate
if not using right away.
Do ahead: Soft-boiled
eggs can be cooked and
peeled up to 3 days
ahead. Cover and chill.
Heat in simmering water
for 1 minute before
serving if desired.

Six and a half minutes. Not six. Not seven. Six minutes
and 30 seconds. Thats how we like our jammy-yolked, peel-
and-eat soft-boiled egg. (Distinct from the eaten-in-the-shell-
with-toast-soldiers kind, though we love those, too.) We know:
This makes us sound like a bunch of stopwatch-wielding nerds.
But we find that six-minute eggs have a touch of translucent
white (gross), and seven-minute eggs have a bit of cooked
yolk (bummer). Splitting the difference yields exactly the egg
we want luxuriating in our ramen or getting cozy with soft
grits. So, yeah: Six and a half minutes. Youre welcome.
 Cheesy Grits with
Scallions and Eggs
Bring 1 cup milk and 1 cup
water to a boil over medium-
high. Whisking constantly,
gradually add cup
yellow or white grits (not
instant) to liquid and cook,
whisking occasionally and
turning down heat to maintain
a low simmer if needed,
until tender, 2535 minutes.
Whisk in 3 oz. grated
sharp cheddar (about
cup) and 2 Tbsp.
unsalted butter to melt;
season grits with kosher
salt and pepper.
While the grits are going,
combine 1 bunch scallions,
very thinly sliced on a
diagonal, 1 very thinly
sliced jalapeo, and
cup vegetable oil in a
small saucepan and bring to
a simmer over medium heat,
swirling pan occasionally,
until scallions are lightly
browned and crisp, 810
minutes. Strain oil through
a fine-mesh sieve into a
small bowl. Save both oil
and vegetables.
Divide grits among bowls.
Top each with a halved
Jammy Soft-Boiled Egg
(see method on opposite
page) and some fried scallions
and jalapeo; drizzle with
some strained oil. Season
with flaky sea salt and more
pepper. 4 servings
U S E
T H E M !

Add to a grain salad!

ow l
Plop in a b
ra m e n o r soba!
of
S e r ve
of dr alongside
e ss e d a tan
g re e gle
Halve and top with ns!
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.

a schme ar of mayo!

P R O T I P For these recipes, were assuming that youre starting with fridge-cold eggsin this country, for better or worse, thats how we buy them.
Cold eggs are more likely to crack in hot water, but at least we know that when the timer goes off theyre going to be exactly how we like them.
76
BUC
ATI
NI
WI
TH
SW
IS
S
CH
A
RD
A
N
D

G
A
RL
IC
KY
BR
EA
DC
RU
MB
S P
. 82

THIS SEASON WERE

ALL ABOUT PAIRING
PEAS WITH OUR
PAPPARDELLE, MIXING
UP A VIBRANT
GREEN RAMP PESTO,
AND FINDING WAYS
TO GET THE VEGETABLE
BOUNTY INTO EVERY
BOWL OF BRIGHT,
SATISFYING NOODLES

recipes by ANDY BARAGHANI

photographs by GENTL & HYERS
 P. 8 2
ND PEAS
NN EL, A
, FE
G
RA
E N
I CK
CH
I TH
W
E
E LL
RD
P PA
PA

78
PA
ST
A
W
IT
H
B

B
A

Y
A
RT
IC
HO
KE
S,
MA
SC
AR
PO
NE,
AND
H A Z E L N U T S P. 8 2
LE
M
O

N
Y
FR
EG
O
LA
W
IT
H
CO
CK
LES
AND
HERBS
P. 8 3

80
 L E P. 8 3
NCIA
GUA
A ND
E STO
M P P
RA
H
IT
W
A
ST
PA
Fi ve i n gre d ients
t o f re s he n u p your
n o o dl e s -a s - usua l

FENNEL
When making a rag,
finely chop the bulb,
thinly slice the stem,
and use along with
aromatics as the base;
that aniselike taste will
cut through any richness.
And save the fronds
for a pretty garnish!

RAMPS
When ramp season is in
full swing, try the bulbs
in place of garlic cloves
in any essential pasta
sauce, such as a ramp-
centric version of aglio e
olio, a quick ramp-and-
cherry-tomato sauce, or
as the base of linguine
with white clam sauce.

ENGLISH PEAS
Add a handful of
freshly shelled peas to
carbonara (or other)
sauce when youre
tossing in noodlesthe
peas will add delicate
sweetness and a pop
of crunchy texture.

GREEN GARLIC
If you see some,
grab some! The juicy,
immature cloves are
mellower than regular
garlic. Crush them to
a paste and infuse them
in olive oil; the fragrant
mixture is tasty drizzled
over any pasta.

SWISS CHARD
Strip the chard leaves
from the ribs, then finely
chop the ribs and saut
them in butter along
with some garlic.
Quickly wilt the leaves
in the pan before tossing
with cooked pasta,
and dinner is done.
Nikita Richardson
Bucatini with Swiss Chard
and Garlicky Breadcrumbs
4 S E RV I N G S The noodles and chard
are silky, which begs for the salty crunch
of the breadcrumbs.
5 Tbsp. olive oil, divided,
plus more for drizzling
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
cup panko (Japanese
breadcrumbs)
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
12 oz. bucatini or spaghetti
5 oil-packed anchovy fillets,
finely chopped
1 serrano chile, thinly sliced
1 small bunch Swiss chard, ribs and
stems removed, leaves coarsely
torn (about 5 cups)
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
1 cup coarsely chopped mint
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Finely grated Pecorino
(for serving)
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a small skillet over
medium. Cook garlic, swirling in
pan often, until golden and crisp, about
2 minutes. Transfer garlic to a small
bowl with a slotted spoon.
Add panko to same skillet and cook,
stirring often, until golden, about
5 minutes; season with salt and pepper.
Transfer to bowl with garlic.
Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling
salted water, stirring occasionally, until
very al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup
pasta cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a large
skillet over medium. Cook anchovies,
mashing with a wooden spoon, until only
a few flecks remain, about 4 minutes.
Add chile and Swiss chard and cook
until Swiss chard is slightly wilted, about
1 minute.
Add butter, pasta, and cup pasta
cooking liquid to Swiss chard mixture and
cook, tossing often with tongs and adding
more pasta cooking liquid if sauce looks
dry, until sauce is emulsified and coats
pasta. Remove from heat and stir in mint,
lemon zest, and lemon juice.
Divide pasta among bowls. Drizzle
with oil; top with garlicky breadcrumbs
and Pecorino.
D O A H E A D : Garlicky breadcrumbs can
be made 1 day ahead. Store airtight at
room temperature.
82
Pappardelle with Chicken
Rag, Fennel, and Peas
4 S E RV I N G S Youll still get that velvety
consistency from this lighter rag,
but it wont take you all day to make.
2 Tbsp. olive oil
6 oz. bacon, thinly sliced
1 lb. skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs
(about 6 total)
Kosher salt
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 fennel bulb, finely chopped, plus
cup coarsely chopped fronds
6 sprigs thyme
cup dry white wine
cup whole milk
1 cup shelled fresh peas
(from about 1 lb. pods)
or frozen peas, thawed
Freshly ground black pepper
12 oz. fresh (or dried) pappardelle
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
cup finely grated Parmesan,
plus shaved for serving
2 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley
Heat oil in a wide large saucepan or
a Dutch oven over medium. Cook bacon,
stirring often, until browned and crisp,
about 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl
with a slotted spoon.
Increase heat to medium-high. Season
chicken all over with salt, then set in pan,
skin side down. Cook, turning halfway
through, until golden brown on both sides,
about 6 minutes total. Transfer to a plate.
Pour off all but 2 Tbsp. fat from pan.
Add onions and chopped fennel and
cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and
golden, 68 minutes. Add thyme and
cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Pour in wine and simmer, stirring and
scraping up brown bits, until reduced
by half, about 5 minutes. Return bacon
and chicken to pan (chicken should fit
snugly in a single layer); pour in water to
barely cover chicken. Bring to a simmer.
Reduce heat to medium-low and set
lid askew. Cook until chicken is tender,
4560 minutes.
Transfer chicken to a clean plate; let
cool. Finely shred chicken meat; discard
bones and skin.
Add milk to pan and set over
medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally
to prevent sticking, until sauce is nearly
reduced by half and slightly thickened,
812 minutes.
Mix peas and chicken into sauce
and cook until peas are just tender, about
4 minutes for fresh peas and 2 minutes
for frozen. Season rag with salt and
plenty of pepper. Keep warm while you
cook the pasta.
Cook pasta in a large pot of salted
boiling water, stirring occasionally,
until very al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup
pasta cooking liquid.
Add pasta, butter, cup grated
Parmesan, and cup pasta water to rag
and mix to coat pasta with sauce.
Increase heat to medium (sauce should
be bubbling just a little) and continue
cooking, stirring and adding more cooking
liquid as needed if sauce is too thick,
until butter and cheese are melted and
incorporated into rag and pasta is well
coated in sauce. Add parsley and toss
to evenly distribute through pasta.
Divide pasta among bowls. Top with
fennel fronds and shaved Parmesan.
D O A H E A D : Rag can be made 2 days
ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat
gently before using.
Pasta with Baby Artichokes,
Mascarpone, and Hazelnuts
4 S E RV I N G S The hardest part of
making this dish is trimming the artichokes,
which isnt even that hard. If you cant
get your hands on baby artichokes, use
the hearts of two globe artichokes.
12 oz. fresh lasagna sheets
(about 8x6")
All-purpose flour (for surface)
1 lemon, halved
1 lb. baby artichokes (about 8)
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2 bay leaves
cup plus 3 Tbsp. olive oil
Kosher salt
cup blanched hazelnuts
2 Tbsp. finely chopped marjoram
or oregano
1 tsp. Aleppo-style pepper
1 cup mascarpone
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Preheat oven to 350. Place a pasta sheet
on a lightly floured work surface. Using
a paring knife or a pastry wheel, cut
the sheet into quarters (each piece should
be about 4x3"), then cut each piece on
a diagonal from corner to corner
to create 4 triangles. Transfer triangles
 to a flour-dusted baking sheet and cover
with a kitchen towel. Repeat process
with remaining lasagna sheets.
Squeeze juice from lemon halves into
a large bowl of cold water. Working with
1 artichoke at a time, pull off all the tough
dark outer leaves until mostly yellow
leaves remain. Using a serrated knife, cut
1" off top of artichoke. Trim stem, leaving
at least " intact. Using a paring knife
or a vegetable peeler, remove dark green
outer layer from stem. Cut artichoke in
half lengthwise and then into "-thick
wedges. Drop artichoke pieces in lemon
water. The acid in the water will keep
them from turning brown while you trim
the remaining artichokes.
Once all the artichokes have been
trimmed, drain and place in a wide
medium saucepan. Add garlic, bay
leaves, and cup oil. Pour in cold
water to submerge artichokes; season
generously with salt. Bring to a simmer
over medium heat and cook until a
paring knife slides through artichokes with
little to no resistance, 810 minutes. Let
cool, then drain and set artichokes aside.
While the artichokes are simmering
away, toast hazelnuts on a rimmed
baking sheet, tossing once, until golden
brown, 1012 minutes. Let cool, then
coarsely chop. Toss in a medium bowl
with marjoram, Aleppo-style pepper,
and 3 Tbsp. oil; season with a generous
pinch of salt. Set aside.
Mix mascarpone, lemon zest, and
lemon juice in a separate medium bowl;
season with salt. Set aside.
Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling
salted water, stirring occasionally, until
very al dente. Drain, reserving cup
pasta cooking liquid.
Return pasta and cup pasta cooking
liquid to pot and set over low heat. Add
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.
reserved mascarpone mixture and gently
toss, adding more pasta cooking liquid
as needed if sauce is too thick, until pasta
is al dente and sauce coats pasta. Add
reserved artichokes and half of reserved
hazelnut mixture and gently stir to
distribute (you want to avoid breaking
up artichokes very much).
Divide pasta among bowls. Top
with remaining hazelnut mixture.
D O A H E A D : Hazelnuts can be toasted
3 days ahead; store airtight at room
temperature. Artichokes can be trimmed
and cooked 1 day ahead; let cool
in cooking liquid. Cover and chill. Drain
just before adding to pasta.
Lemony Fregola with
Cockles and Herbs
4 S E RV I N G S Fregola, a small, toasted
Sardinian pasta, is classic with clams,
and cockles make a great sub for Italys
tiny vongole veraci. See Prep School,
page 112, for more on this bivalve.
tsp. kosher salt, plus more
1 4" piece rhubarb, finely chopped
(about cup; optional)
1 Tbsp. finely chopped Meyer lemon
or regular lemon (flesh and peel)
8 oz. medium fregola
cup olive oil, plus more for
drizzling
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 cup dry white wine
2 lb. cockles, Manila clams, or
littleneck clams, scrubbed
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
1 cup torn basil leaves
3 Tbsp. finely chopped chives
3 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley
Crushed red pepper flakes
(for serving)
If using rhubarb, dissolve tsp. salt in
1 cup warm water in a small bowl. Add
rhubarb and let soak 5 minutes (doing
this will mellow the rhubarbs acidity).
Drain and pat dry. Place in a small bowl
with chopped lemon and toss to combine.
Let sit until ready to serve pasta.
Cook fregola in a large pot of boiling
lightly salted water, stirring occasionally,
until very al dente, 68 minutes. Drain,
reserving 1 cup pasta cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, heat cup oil in a large
skillet over medium. Cook garlic, swirling
around in pan often, until just golden,
about 1 minute. Add wine; bring to a boil.
Reduce heat and simmer until reduced
by half, about 3 minutes. Add cockles,
cover skillet, and cook until they open,
about 4 minutes. Transfer cockles to
a bowl, discarding any that dont open.
Add fregola, cup pasta cooking
liquid, and butter to skillet. Cook, tossing
often, until fregola is tender and sauce
is slightly thickened, about 3 minutes.
Mix in basil, chives, and parsley and
cook until basil has just wilted, about
20 seconds. Return cockles to pot and
cook until warmed through.
Divide fregola and cockles among
bowls. Drizzle with oil; top with rhubarb-
lemon mixture (or just chopped lemon if
not using rhubarb) and red pepper flakes.
Pasta with Ramp Pesto
and Guanciale
4 S E RV I N G S Is it necessary to blanch,
then shock, the ramp greens? If you want
a super-green (not khaki) pesto, it is.
1 Tbsp. plus cup (or more) olive oil
6 oz. guanciale (salt-cured pork
jowl), pancetta, or slab bacon,
cut into " cubes
2 bunches ramps (about 10 oz.),
greens and bulbs separated,
bulbs thinly sliced
Kosher salt
cup finely chopped unsalted,
roasted pistachios, divided
cup finely grated Parmesan,
plus more for serving
Freshly ground black pepper
12 oz. paccheri or rigatoni
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room
temperature, cut into pieces
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over
medium-low. Cook guanciale, tossing
often, until browned and crisp, 1015
minutes. Transfer to a small bowl with
a slotted spoon. Pour off all but 2 Tbsp.
fat from skillet.
Add ramp bulbs to skillet; season with
salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until
translucent and tender, about 4 minutes.
Meanwhile, blanch ramp greens in
a large pot of boiling salted water until
wilted, about 10 seconds. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer to a bowl of ice water
(save pot of water). Drain, squeeze out
excess liquid, and coarsely chop.
Pure ramp greens, ramp bulbs, half of
pistachios, and remaining cup oil in a
food processor until very finely chopped.
Add cup Parmesan and process until
pesto is almost smooth. Pulse in a little
more oil if sauce is too thick; season with
salt and pepper.
Return reserved pot of water to a boil;
cook pasta, stirring occasionally, until al
dente; drain, reserving cup pasta water.
Mix pesto, cup pasta water, and
butter in a large bowl. Using tongs,
transfer pasta to bowl and add guanciale;
toss vigorously, adding more cooking
liquid as needed until pasta is glossy and
well coated with sauce. Taste and add
more salt if needed.
Divide pasta among bowls. Top with
more Parmesan and remaining pistachios.
D O A H E A D : Pesto can be made 2 days
ahead. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing
directly onto surface, and chill.
83
H O W D I D M A L D O N B E C O M E T H E O N E N A M E B R A N D
O N ? N I C K P A U M G A R T E N T R A V E L S T O T H E M A R S H E S

84
I N G R E D I E N T E V E RY C H E F A N D H O M E C O O K C A N AG R E E
O F E S S E X , E N G L A N D , T O S I F T F O R S O M E A N S W E R S
P h o t o g r a p h s b y J a m e s M o l l i s o n
O
O N C E U P O N A T I M E , salt was just salt. It was
the stuff in shakers and canisters, the gustatory
equivalent of the treble dial. You used more, or you
used less. Whether it was a little girl with an umbrella,
a toss over the left shoulder to ward off bad luck, or a
nontasters affront to the chef, it was all just salt.
This was more than 20 years ago, but well after
people learned that there might be finer coffee than
Medaglia DOro in a can. Maybe the first inkling was
the coarse salt on the rim of a margarita, or a salad
invigorated by sparks of La Baleine, or a virgin bite
of chocolate sprinkled with fleur de sel. For Mark
Bitterman, the author of Salted and the coiner of the
term selmelier (which so far seems to have been
applied just to Bitterman), the epiphany was a tran-
scendent steak at a relais in northern France in 1986.
He deduced that the difference-maker was the rock
salt provided by the owners brother, a saltmaker
in Gurande in Brittany. Bitterman came to learn,
as all chefs now have, that before salt was just salt
before it was industrialized and homogenizedit
was a regional and idiosyncratic ingredient, perhaps
the quintessential one, precisely because it was so
universal. You could tell salts apart, prefer one to
another, and pair them with different foods. You
could acquire a salt vocabulary, tell salt stories. If
you could be a snob about coffee, beer, butter, pep-
pers, and pot, why not sodium chloride?
I was slower to catch on. Id encountered a certain
variant everywhere: delicate flakes of sea salt, in
ramekins or little wooden bowls, in snug neo-rustic
restaurants with one-syllable names (Prune, Hearth,
Salt, et al.) or at the kind of rooftop barbecues where
people served mead cocktails and put watermelon in
salad. It was a pleasure to pinch it between forefinger
and thumb, or absentmindedly dab at it and taste
a few flecks, like a narc testing a confiscated drug
shipment. It had a sublime effect on a tomato or a
pork chop. But I didnt think of it as a particular kind.
It was just the fancy salt.
Then I got wise. On a kitchen shelf at home, there
was a small box adorned with the Royal Warrant of
the Queen of England and some Edwardian-sounding
patter in small print, attesting to the curious crystals
of unusual purity contained within. The brand was
MaldonMaldon Sea Salt Flakes. It came from a
86
RIG H T:
Gary Bentley,
135-year-old family-owned salt a Maldon salt
works on the southeast coast harvester,
of England. My wife had been with his rake
buying it for years.
I soon realized that almost
everyone who gave food any thoughtprofessional
chefs, restaurant junkies, people who keep a water-
stained spiral notebook of a great-aunts favorite
recipesknew about Maldon. It had the omnipres-
ence of Hellmanns mayonnaise, the old-school cred
of Walkers shortbread, and the high repute of Gevrey-
Chambertin. It had also become trendy. Cameron
Diaz carried a tin of it in her bag; Gwyneth Paltrow
sang its praises on Goop. Chef Judy King revealed it to
be her secret prison seasoning in Orange Is the New
Black. (This is my heroin, she says.)
Ruth Rogers, the chef and owner of the River Caf
in London, declared in her first cookbook, back in
1996, You must use Maldon salt. When I visited her
at home in London last fall, she said she had been
talking about it with some chef friends earlier that
day and one of them said, At last, the British have
an ingredient. Its a very chef-y ingredient.
When cooks talk about Maldon, they inevitably
mention the feel of the flakes between the fingers,
the pleasing tactility of the pinch. (No one really
measures out salt.) The pyramid shape, no bigger
than a tab of acid, keeps it from caking. It has the
look of something valuable and hard-won, a delicacy
that has crossed deserts on camels. It works best as a
finishing saltone sprinkles it on vegetables, butter,
caramel, or grilled meat, just before serving. As for
the taste, Maldon is considered less bitter, less salty
H uman s than other salts. Theres a quick savory zing that
h ave be e n doesnt overpower or overstayan ephemeral salti-
h ar ve stin g ness, as Bitterman describes it. Its almost sweet.
Nothing else has that flaky quality, Daniel Rose,
salt in
chef-partner at Le Coucou in New York, told me.
M aldon f or Having spent the past 20 years in Paris, where he
thousan ds owns Spring restaurant, he also used a variety of
of ye ars, French salt, in addition to the English stuff. But, he
eve n be f ore recalled, there is definitely a pre-Maldon time and a
post-Maldon time.
re corde d
This boom first took hold on Maldons home turf,
h istor y. with the British food renaissance of the 90s. One
springboard was the so-called Delia Effect, after
Delia Smith, the food personality and cookbook
author who championed Maldon in her BBC Series
How to Cook; around 2000, she named Maldon salt,
along with Worcestershire sauce, as one of her ten
essentials. As a result, the big supermarket chains in
the UK, like Tesco, stocked up on it. Maldon, a tiny
operation, had to scramble to ramp up. One of the
many viral ways it made it to America was via Pal-
trow, who apparently was twigged to it when she was
married to Chris Martin, pre-uncoupling. I was liv-
ing in London, and it was ubiquitous there, she told
me. I just stumbled on it, in my quotidian life. Pal-
trow included it in her second cookbook in 2013 as,
among other things, an ingredient in her famous but
otherwise scary-sounding vegan and gluten-free
almond butter cookies. The celebrity chef Jamie
Oliver, who got the Maldon bug as a young cook in
Rogers kitchen at the River Caf, made it his go-to
salt in his cookbooks and TV appearances. Before
long, it was everywhere: the iPhone of salts.
This fuddy-duddy-yet-posh, not-just-salt salt had
become a thing. But where did it even come from?
T R AV E L E D T O M A L D O N in the
chilly dark days of November,
I
timing my visit to the tides.
Maldon is, first, a placea town
in the county Essex on the River
Blackwater, an estuary in the
east of England. Its an hour from
London by train, but it felt farther once I was stroll-
ing along its desolate waterfront, peering through
the twilight toward the island of Mersea, which is
renowned for its oysters. Mersea and Maldon have
in common the brine. At a pub by the quay, the
Queens Head, I ordered fish and chips and a pint of
a local brew, Pucks Folly, and eavesdropped on a
chapter meeting of the local rowing club. The salt
was table salt.
Blackwater is a bastardization of Brackwater, as
in, the water is brackish, quite salty in fact, because
the Essex coast is dry, by English standards anyway.
Less rain means more salt. The marshes are seaward,
east of town, on land belonging to the Crown.
Humans have been harvesting salt there for thou-
sands of years, even before recorded history. The
spring tides come in over the seagrass and, when the
water retreats, leave salt to crystallize. In the Iron
Age, people heated clay vessels to reduce the salty
water. Two thousand years ago, the Romans scaled
88
up that operation by trapping water in clay-lined pits
We re and boiling it off in pans made of lead. (Lead! And
you thought a high-sodium diet was bad for you.)
producin g
These were heated from underneath by wood fires,
2,755 ton s and the salt was left in the bottom of the pans. In the
a ye ar, Domesday Book of 1086, large numbers of brine pits
S teve said. and pans were recorded along the Essex coastline.
Th ats The 1825 abolition of a tax on salt made it more
economical to mine for it in caves elsewhere in the
10 million
country. The little local sea-salt guys went out of
boxe s.
business. The advent of so-called solution mining,
which involved pumping freshwater into these caves,
made mass production possiblemost of that haul
became standard table salt or sodium chloride used
to make rubber. It was not good for cooking, though:
too bitter, too harsh. (Later, the dawn of refrigeration
diminished salts historical value as a preservative.)
The Maldon saltmakers who remained, in the 19th
century, were chiefly employed as coal merchants.
One local coal firm called Bridges, Johnson and Co.
also produced sea salt, and in 1882 christened that
standalone business the Maldon Salt Company.
Londoners would ask friends traveling to Essex to
pick some up. In 1900, it wound up in Harrods, which
sent the company a letter: We found the salt much
better than ordinary salt for pickling beef, a much
smaller quantity being required for brine. Also gives
the beef a much better flavour.
A man named James Rivers bought the company
in 1922. He married Nellie Osborne, a widow with
three sons. And when Rivers died, the youngest,
Cyril Osborne, was eventually given the saltworks.
In a Path film from 1964 called Salty Business, on
YouTube, you can see Cyril in his Wellies, opening a
gate to let the tidewater fill the storage pond.

I T WA S V E RY S P I Tand sawdust,
to be honest with you, Cyrils
grandson, Steve Osborne,
explained once I arrived. The
family still owns the business out-
right, and Steve, who is 42, runs
it. Hes modernized many aspects of the operation,
yet the way the salt is harvested remains pretty much
the same. He picked me up at my hotel outside of
town just after sunrise in a Porsche Macan and drove
us out to the salt marsh.
It was a clear, cold morning. Steve had on black
corduroys, a quilted Barbour jacket, and brown
suede lace-ups ill-suited to the marsh. After two
years of college, hed spent his 20s in the city trading
bond futures in the open-outcry pits at the LIFFE
Exchange. Technology rendered the job obsolete,
but the ancient way of harvesting salt still pertained,
so in 1998 he returned to Maldon to work for his
father, Clive, who had taken over for Cyril in the 70s.
In his youth, Clive, too, had gone to work in London,
as a lighter salesman, before returning to the family
business. By 1998, Clive, then in his mid-50s, wasnt
sure if there was anything for his son to do. Steve
helped with marketing and learned the ins and outs.
When Steve took the reins, five years later, the
father found the sons approach a bit ambitious. Here
was a go-go kid just back from the city, with big
ideas, coming home to the sleepy provincial saltmak-
ing shed. The younger Osborne wanted to buy land
to expand, but his father argued against it. Eventually
Steve prevailed and they bought a plot of farmland
on the shore. In his view, the only thing preventing
world domination was the limited production of
Maldon salt. Since then, Steves been all in.
FROM FAR LEFT:
The Downs
Maldons original saltworks from above;
are in a low-slung building in the newly
redesigned
an area of town called the
box; necessary
Downs, along the river. Built in equipment; a
1850, its not much bigger than small mountain
a basketball court. When Steve of salt flakes
took over, there were just three
salt pans here. He added a
fourth the next year, then three
more the year following. In
2006 they opened a second facility, a few miles up the
coast at Goldhanger. He also built an administrative
and packaging plant to free up space for saltmaking.
Now they have 37 pans; the great-grandson has multi-
plied production a dozen times over. Ive just bought
another piece of land, he said. I want to build
another factory and double the number of pans.
In 1980, at the Downs, Clive Osborne replaced coal
with natural gas, which was more efficient and made
it easier to regulate temperature, to produce crystals
of the right size. The art of making salt is one of
temperature and timing, Steve said. Back in the coal
In the era, Cyril had a famously deft touch. Pop was an
expert with the shovel. Of course, there was that day
United States
when he crawled into the flue with a fag between his
alone, t he lips. The coal dust exploded, and Cyril came out
M aldon singed, a Wile E. Coyote in Wellies.
marke t h as The saltmaking now begins with a steel barge
double d in docked out front on the Blackwater. At high tide,
pumps fill the barge with seawater. Its taken at
the past
mid-depth in the estuary, to avoid mud particles yet
th re e ye ars. maximize salinity. The barge holds four weeks worth
of seawater; every two weeksduring spring tides,
which occur at the new and full moonsthe Osbornes
top up. The water passes into six settlement tanks,

and then into other filtration tanks, and then finally
it is pumped into the pans. Were releasing the salt
from the clutches of nature, Steve said. Nature
doesnt charge anything for the rightthough the
British Crown does.
Inside, the operation resembles a lobster pound
housed in a schvitz. The square pans are steel, three
yards on each side, and not much more than a foot
deep. An intricate system of flues heats each pan
evenly from beneath, as the brine solution thickens.
The air is humid and steamy and is rumored to have
health benefits. Steve pointed to a hale gent rak-
ing salt from the pan and joked, Gary here is
actually 105 years old.
The saltmakers boil the brine, then reduce the
temperature until inverted-pyramid crystals form on
the surface, like the skein of ice on a martini. At some
point, the crystals, under their own weight, fall to the
bottom of the pan like snow. Gary then rakes the
crystals and shovels them into plastic draining tubs,
like garbage bins, which hold 331 pounds each.
The salt drains for 24 hours. Then comes the dry-
ing. In Cyrils day, they piled sacks of it next to a
woodburning stove. Clive upgraded to an industrial
oven. Back then, the family lived in a house across the
street; Clive came over every night at 10 p.m., just
before bed, to change the trays and heat them over-
night. Several years ago, Steve introduced a Rube
Goldbergian oscillator, a modified grain dryer of his
own design. It saves me having to come over at
10 p.m., he said. The salt, once sifted, drains into
882-pound bags, which get trucked up to the packag-
ing plant. By this point, many of the pyramids have
crumbled into flakes. (Finding a fully intact crystal is
a little like getting a two-yolk egg.) A $7 box com-
prises a fistful of salt: eight and a half ounces.
Sea salt flakeswe came up with that term,
Steve said. Seems to be in every recipe now, but we
made it up. I dont want to sound arrogant. But Ive
seen people saying flakes when its not flakes. He
also claims that his open-pan process leaches out
magnesium, a source of salts bitter taste.
F E W Y E A R S A G O , Maldon
changed the design of its boxes,
A making them simpler, cleaner,
simultaneously more retro and
less frumpy. Long gone is the
impressionistic close-up of a
sweaty mixed salad. The packag-
ing plants new automated assembly line turns out
100 boxes a minute, more than five times what Mal-
don produced when the company packaged by hand.
Were producing 2,755 tons a year, Steve said. Thats
10 million boxes. That morning, they were churning
out a shipment bound for Norway; these boxes read
Havsaltflak. A daily call sheet in the warehouse
specified orders bound for Italy, France, Sweden, the
United States, Spain, Dubai, Germany, and Austria.
Sixty percent of the take is for export. Maldon is
now in 50 countries, a half dozen of which make up
90
RIGHT:
Along the
the bulk of the foreign orders. At shores of
the pub the previous night, the the River
president of the rowing club told Blackwater
me he had recently come back
from Stockholm: One shop was
completely full of Scandinavian stuffelks heads and
thingsand there in the corner was a Maldon salt dis-
play. I thought, Thats my hometown! It turns out
that some 50 years ago, a Swedish exchange student
brought a box home from England. Her father was the
buying director for Coop, the national supermarket
chain. Soon Maldon was everywhere in Sweden.
Right now the biggest importer is Spain. Thats
selling ice to Eskimos, basically, Steve said. There
are great saltmakers there, but they dont produce
pyramid crystals. He ascribes Maldons success to a
S e a salt 1996 magazine endorsement by chef Ferran Adri.
f lake s : Next on that list is the United States, where the
We came market has doubled in the past three years, due, it
u p w ith th at seems, to the cascading heap of praise from celeb-
te rm, S teve rities, chefs, and celebrity chefs. Like Anson Mills
grits or Wellfleet oysters, Maldon now goes by its
s aid. S e e ms
proper name among the food cognoscenti. Steve
to be in claims not to have sought the attention, although
eve r y re cipe he recently hired a marketing manager from Dia-
n ow, but we geo. Financiers and investors with grand schemes
made it up . have approached himIve heard it allbut he
says hed prefer to keep the business independent.
Still, he isnt sure operational control will fall to the
fifth generation. (Steve has two stepkids, and his
sister has children, too.) Just because youre family
doesnt mean youre the right person to carry on,
he said. Its quite a heavy cross for me to bear, to be
honest. Its been four generations. Id be the one to
cock it up.
In a way, Maldon had first-mover advantage. Its
the gateway salt, opening the doors of perception to
a whole new saline consciousness. There is a growing
range of commercial artisanal sea salts, such as
Jacobsen Salt Co. in Portland, Oregon, drawn from
the Pacific on the Oregon coast (which apparently
has a lower salinity than the Blackwater). This is the
Portlandia version of Maldon, for chefs with beards
and fixies. Or Norur, harvested on the western coast
of Iceland, created using geothermal water.
Recently, I stopped by The Meadow, a Manhattan
salt boutique that Bitterman owns. He was there hold-
ing forth in front of several shelves of hand-labeled
glass jars: Papohaku Opal from Hawaii, Trapani e
Marsala from Italy, Amabito No Moshio from Japan,
pinballs of salt from Lake Assal in Djibouti. I tasted
flecks out of the palm of his hand. It was easy to won-
der, amid such exotica, if Maldon might soon be
crushed by an array of salts from around the world.
Steve worries more about wet weather than about
his competitors. We stick to the knitting, he had
told me, looking out toward the North Sea. What,
Ive got to do pink salt now? No. The moons still
there, and the tide still comes in.
Nick Paumgarten is a staff writer for The New Yorker.
91
T Half G
old
60W
bu
lb,
$7
;r

ej
uv
en
ati
on
.co
AFTER CRUSHING ON m
THE BRASS ACCENTS

AT O U R FAV O R I T E

R E STA U R A N TS , W E R E

BRINGING THE VIBE

HOME WITH BAR CARTS,

SPOONS, AND MORE

photographs by
Victor Prado

92
P Boule v
ase,
$ 14
9;
mj
olk
.ca
 This tray holds business cards
a t N YC s C a f A l t ro Pa ra d i s o .

Brass tray, $73; cleverspaces.com RBT cocktail shaker, $50; bloomingdales.com Brass spoons, $115 for two; shopmateria.com

Atlas 01 lamp, $950; rollandhill.com Leff Amsterdam speaker, $189; abchome.com Terrace bar cart, $399; westelm.com

We spot ted these handmade lamps

MARKET EDITOR: MONICA KHEMSUROV. PROP STYLING BY AMY TAYLOR.

a t D e n ve r s B l a c k E y e C o f f e e .

Brass cheese knife and fork, $48; poketo.com Electric T lamp, $310; jonescountyroad.com Ilse bowl, $175; georgjensen.com

94
 Youll find these
not-too-pricey
talon tongs
behind the bar
a t M i s t e r J i u s
restaurant in
San Francisco.

Talon tongs, $18; cocktailkingdom.com

FOR NORTH

CAROLINA CHEF

VIVIAN HOWARD,

EASTER IS ALL

ABOUT TRADITIONS

BOTH OLD AND

N E W. B U T D O N T

EVEN THINK

ABOUT SKIPPING

THE DEVILED EGGS

recipes by
Vivian Howard

photographs by
Michael Graydon +
Nikole Herriott

96
 ROAST
LEG OF LAMB
WITH
P OTATOES
AND
A S PA R AG U S
P. 10 2

I grew up Southern
Baptist and started every
Easter Sunday with sunrise
service followed by bacon,
eggs, grits, and biscuits
in our church fellowship hall.
At home, I dressed in frilly
dresses designed for a day
much warmer than the reality
of Eastern North Carolina
weather. I dyed eggs, hunted
them down, and eventually
pitched them like baseballs
into the sides of tobacco barns
for kicks. We ate a feast
of baked ham, warm potato
salad, turnip greens, and
layer cakes. Easter, like
Thanksgiving, was about the
food but with a side of Jesus.
I married a Jewish man,
so Easter is different now. We
still dye eggsI have a deep
disdain for the plastic egg
phenomenonand I treat
Easter like springs coming out
party. The holiday always falls
just before greens galore color
our farmers market, so peas,
radishes, and green onions
tease the seasons imminent full
effect. Instead of baked ham,
my centerpiece is lamb, which
my dad calls billy goat in
protest. Its paired with a punchy
asparagus condimenta
veg that before my 20s I had
only ever seen in a can.
As different as the holiday
is now for my family, some
characters from those childhood
Easters continue to show
up. Deviled eggsblended,
spread on a biscuit, and
topped with trout roewink
at the Easter breakfasts and
lunches of my childhood.
Suspending turnip roots and
their greens in a cheesy mix of
bread and caramelized onions
makes a dish I hated as a kid
more like macaroni and cheese
than stewed greens. And
banana pudding pie, while not
particularly Easterish, is the
dessert of choice. Its something
Jews, Christians, and maybe
even Jesus can agree on.
V i v i a n H ow a r d
98
DEVILED EGGS ON BISCUITS
WITH TROUT ROE AND DILL
M A K E S 24 The bright roe adds a salty
pop to these hors doeuvres. Use a pinch
of flaky sea salt instead, if you prefer.
12 large eggs
cup mayonnaise
cup sweet pickle relish
cup finely chopped chives
cup finely chopped dill pickles
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. hot sauce
cup finely chopped dill, plus more
Kosher salt
Eastern CarolinaStyle Biscuits
(see recipe), split
2 oz. trout roe (optional)
Place eggs in a large saucepan and
pour in cold water to cover by 1".
Bring to a boil; cook 1 minute. Remove
from heat, cover, and let sit 11 minutes.
Drain and run eggs under cold water
until cool. Peel and cut into " pieces.
Mix mayonnaise, relish, chives,
pickles, vinegar, hot sauce, and cup
dill in a medium bowl. Gently fold in
eggs; season with salt. Let sit 30 minutes.
Spoon deviled eggs onto biscuit halves.
Top with roe, if using, and more dill.
D O A H E A D : Deviled eggs can be
made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.
EASTERN CAROLINA
STYLE BISCUITS
M A K E S 12 Howards biscuits are more
sturdy than flaky, which means they
wont crumble on the way to your mouth.
2 cups all-purpose flour
4 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 cup buttermilk
cup lard, chilled, plus more
Place racks in upper and lower thirds
of oven; preheat to 375. Whisk flour,
baking powder, and salt in a large
bowl. Create a large well in the center
and add buttermilk and cup lard.
Gradually work in dry ingredients with
your hands until a soft dough forms. It
should hold together but be scoopable.
Using a -cup measuring cup, scoop
dough onto a small baking sheet lightly
greased with lard to make 12 portions;
they should be touching. Bake biscuits
on bottom rack 20 minutes, then transfer
to top and bake until golden brown,
710 minutes longer.
TURNIP AND KALE GRATIN
8 S E RV I N G S If you come across
turnips with good-looking greens still
attached, use in place of the kale.
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 cups heavy cream
tsp. dried thyme
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
3 medium onions, thinly sliced
Kosher salt
3 bunches Tuscan kale, ribs and
stems removed, leaves torn
4 medium turnips (about 1 lb.
total), trimmed, peeled,
cut into " pieces
3 large eggs, beaten to blend
4 oz. Fontina cheese, grated
(about 1 cup)
1 oz. Parmesan, finely grated
(about 1 cup)
8 oz. day-old white country-style
bread, cut into " pieces
Freshly ground black pepper
Bring garlic, cream, and thyme to a bare
simmer over medium heat. Reduce heat
to low and let cream simmer 30 minutes.
Let cool.
Meanwhile, heat 1 Tbsp. butter in
a large skillet over medium-low. Add
onions, season with salt, and cook,
stirring occasionally and adding a
splash or two of water if onions begin
to stick to pan, until caramelized and
amber colored, 4560 minutes.
Transfer to a large bowl and let cool.
Wipe out skillet.
Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. butter in same
skillet. Working in batches, add kale,
tossing and letting it wilt slightly before
adding more; season with salt. Cook
until kale is wilted and tender, 58
minutes; transfer to bowl with onions.
While kale is cooking, cook turnips in
a large pot of boiling well-salted water
until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes;
drain. Transfer to a bowl of ice water
and let cool. Drain; pat dry. Transfer
to bowl with onions.
Preheat oven to 375. Whisk eggs,
Fontina cheese, Parmesan, and cooled
cream mixture in a large bowl to
combine. Add onion mixture and bread;
season with salt and pepper. Transfer to
a 13x9" baking dish and press down on
mixture with your hands to form a tight,
even layer. Bake gratin, uncovered, until
well browned, 4050 minutes. Let rest
10 minutes before serving.
D O A H E A D : Gratin can be assembled
12 hours ahead. Cover and chill.
 DEVILED
EGGS ON
BISCUITS
WITH
TROUT ROE
AND DILL
 ROMAINE AND
SUGAR SNAPS
WITH PECANS
Place a rack in upper
third of oven; preheat
to 350. Toss cup
pecans with 1 Tbsp.
melted unsalted butter
and tsp. kosher salt
on a small rimmed
baking sheet. Spread
1 cups pecans on
another small rimmed
baking sheet and toast
both, tossing once,
until slightly darkened
and fragrant, about
10 minutes for salt-
roasted pecans and
1214 minutes for
dry pecans. Let cool.
Process dry pecans in
a food processor until
smooth, about 5 minutes.
Mix cup pecan
butter in large bowl
with 3 Tbsp. fresh
lemon juice, 2 Tbsp.
olive oil, and tsp.
honey; season dressing
with salt and pepper.
Cook 3 cups sugar
snap peas in a large
pot of boiling salted
water until crisp-tender,
about 1 minute.
Drain and transfer to
a bowl of ice water.
Let cool; drain. Remove
strings; slice pods
crosswise on a diagonal
into varying lengths.
Add 3 romaine hearts,
leaves separated,
and peas to dressing in
bowl and toss to coat.
Transfer salad to
a platter and top with
salt-roasted pecans.
8 servings
 TURNIP
AND
K ALE GR ATIN
P. 9 8
ROAST LEG OF LAMB WITH
POTATOES AND ASPARAGUS
8 S E RV I N G S This is a great roast to
knock out in the morning. It will be just
as delicious at room temperature, so
feel free to let it rest longer than 1 hour.
LAMB
2 Tbsp. ground cumin
1 Tbsp. ground coriander
1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper
8 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
1 8-lb. bone-in leg of lamb,
shank attached, frenched
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
3 lb. baby Yukon Gold
potatoes, scrubbed
AS PA R A G U S A N D ASS E M B LY
1 lb. asparagus, trimmed
Kosher salt
4 scallions, white and pale green
parts only, thinly sliced crosswise
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
cup pine nuts
cup finely chopped parsley
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
cup fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. finely grated orange zest
2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice
1 tsp. honey
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
Freshly ground black pepper
cup finely chopped mint
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Flaky sea salt
Chopped chives (for serving)
L A M B Whisk cumin, coriander,
pepper, and 8 tsp. salt in a small bowl.
Trim excess fat and any membrane
from lamb; discard. Pat lamb dry with
paper towels and rub with 2 Tbsp. oil.
Rub spice mixture all over lamb. Place,
fat cap down, on a rack set inside a
roasting pan and chill, uncovered,
at least 12 hours and up to 24 hours.
Let lamb come to room temperature,
about 2 hours.
Preheat oven to 500. Toss potatoes
with remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a large
bowl; season with salt. Roast lamb
20 minutes. Turn over and roast until well
browned, 510 minutes. Remove from
oven and slide potatoes under rack in
roasting pan. Reduce oven temperature
to 325 and roast until potatoes are
lightly browned and very tender and an
instant-read thermometer inserted into
the thickest part of leg registers 118
for medium-rare, 11 hours. Tent pan
with foil and let lamb rest 1 hour.
10 2
AS PA R A G U S A N D ASS E M B LY Cook
asparagus in a large pot of boiling salted
water until bright green and crisp-tender,
about 1 minute. Drain and transfer to
a bowl of ice water. Let cool; drain. Slice
asparagus into "-thick rounds; set aside.
Mix scallions, garlic, pine nuts,
parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice, orange
zest, orange juice, honey, and red
pepper flakes in a medium bowl; season
with kosher salt and black pepper.
Let gremolata sit at least 20 minutes,
or cover and chill up to 12 hours.
Ten minutes before serving, stir mint, oil,
and reserved asparagus into gremolata;
season with kosher salt and black pepper.
Slice lamb " thick; season with
sea salt. Toss potatoes in pan with some
chives. Serve lamb topped with
gremolata with potatoes alongside.
WARM SESAME
BANANA PUDDING PIE
8 S E RV I N G S Howards smart tweaks
to this classic dessert include roasting the
bananas to deepen their flavor, making
sesame wafers, and serving the pie warm.
S E S A M E WA F E R S
1 cups all-purpose flour
cup toasted sesame seeds
tsp. baking powder
tsp. kosher salt
cup (1 sticks) unsalted butter,
room temperature
cup granulated sugar
1 Tbsp. light brown sugar
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
2 tsp. vanilla extract
P U D D I N G A N D ASS E M B LY
7 ripe bananas, divided
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 cups heavy cream
1 cups whole milk
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup granulated sugar, divided
4 large eggs, separated
3 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 tsp. vanilla extract
3 Tbsp. banana schnapps
or rum, divided
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
tsp. cream of tartar
1 cup powdered sugar
S E S A M E WA F E R S Place racks in upper
and lower thirds of oven; preheat to
375. Whisk flour, sesame seeds, baking
powder, and salt in a medium bowl.
Using an electric mixer on medium-high
speed, beat butter and both sugars in
a large bowl until light and fluffy, about
3 minutes. Beat in egg, egg yolk, oil, and
vanilla. Reduce speed to low and mix
in dry ingredients. Cover dough and chill
until cold, about 30 minutes.
Drop dough by the tablespoonful onto
2 parchment-lined rimmed baking sheets,
spacing 1" apart. Bake wafers, rotating
baking sheets halfway through, until
brown around the edges, 1316 minutes.
Let cool on baking sheets.
P U D D I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Rub 3 bananas
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY ANGHARAD BAILEY. EASTERN CAROLINASTYLE BISCUITS AND WARM SESAMEBANANA PUDDING PIE RECIPES ADAPTED FROM DEEP RUN ROOTS:
with oil. Roast (oven should still be at
375) on a parchment-lined baking
STORIES AND RECIPES FROM MY CORNER OF THE SOUTH. COPYRIGHT 2016 BY VIVIAN HOWARD. PUBLISHED BY LITTLE, BROWN AND COMPANY. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
sheet until skins are dark brown and flesh
is popping out, 2535 minutes. Let cool.
Meanwhile, bring cream, milk, butter,
and cup sugar to a simmer in a medium
saucepan over medium heat, whisking
occasionally. Whisk egg yolks, cornstarch,
vanilla, cup sugar, 2 Tbsp. schnapps,
and 1 tsp. salt in a medium bowl. Adding
cupful at a time, whisk in one-third
of hot cream mixture, then whisk egg
mixture into remaining cream mixture in
saucepan. Cook pudding, whisking
constantly, until thickened and bubbling,
about 5 minutes. Scrape into a large
bowl set over an ice bath; let cool.
Peel roasted bananas and process in
a food processor with remaining 1 Tbsp.
schnapps until smooth. Stir into pudding.
Increase oven temperature to 400.
Slice remaining 4 bananas " thick. Ladle
one-third of pudding into a 9 " deep
pie dish or 8x8" glass baking dish. Layer
half of wafers over pudding; top with half
of bananas. Repeat, layering with half of
remaining pudding and wafers and all of
bananas. Finish with a layer of remaining
pudding, then wafers. Cover with foil and
bake until heated through, 1015 minutes.
Meanwhile, using electric mixer with
clean beaters, beat egg whites, cream of
tartar, and a large pinch of salt in a large
bowl on medium-high speed until soft
peaks form, about 5 minutes. Increase
speed to high, gradually add remaining
cup sugar; beat until stiff, glossy
peaks form, about 1 minute. Working
in 3 batches and beating well after
each, add powdered sugar. Beat until
meringue is very stiff, dense, and glossy.
Let pudding cool slightly, then
decoratively spread meringue over top.
Toast with a kitchen torch, if desired.
D O A H E A D : Dessert (without meringue)
can be assembled 6 hours ahead; chill.
 WARM
SESAME
BANANA
PUDDING
PIE
prep school
FROM P. 52
STEAK OUT
Meaty cauliflower steaks
are our go-to veggie main. One
head yields two slabs, so scale
up as needed. C L A I R E SA F F I T Z
1.
Snap off any large outer leaves
and trim just the base of the stem.
Cut down the center of the head
directly through the stem to halve.
2.
Working with each half, cut off
outer, rounded edge of cauliflower
to make two steaks about 1 " thick.
3.
Cut any loose florets into
smaller pieces. Save for another
use (boil and pure, roast, or
finely chop into cauliflower rice).
112 A P R I L 2 0 17
T E C H N I Q U E S , T I P S , A N D M O R E F R OM T H E B O N A P P T I T T E S T K I T C H E N
FROM P. 83
SHELL SHOCK
Dont think youre a clam
person? Consider the cockle.
These tiny bivalvesmuch
beloved in the UK and
Asia but less popular here
are 100 percent sweet,
tender meat with none of the
overwhelming brininess that
turns people off from other
shellfish. And they cook in
a lot less time than regular old
clams. (Did we mention they
make a stunning weeknight
dinner with pasta?) At
the seafood counter, look
for cockles with quarter-size,
slightly ribbed shells. As
with all shellfish, make sure
that each one is still alive
before cookingthe shells
should be closed or should
snap shut quickly after
a tap on a hard surface.
AS H L E Y M AS O N
Nothing warms
the cockles of
our hearts like, well,
a pot of cockles.
FROM P. 48
Blue Ribbon
The texture of our Chocolate Macaroon Cake is its big selling
point. Its chewy and dense, nothing like the light, airy cakes were
used to. And that very particular consistency has everything to
do with the way that the eggs are beaten with sugar for the batter.
While the sponginess of most cakes relies on a mixture that is
beaten until it is so thick that a slowly dissolving ribbon can be
seen when it falls off the whisk, we dont want that much air in our
batter. Instead, the eggs for this cake are beaten until frothy but
still free-flowinga fine line, but it makes a huge difference. C . S .
P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
prep school

A B C D E F

W H A M , B A M , T H A N K Y O U, H A M
Ham has always been there for us, from second grade lunches
to Easter dinners at Grandmas house. But saying all ham is the same
is like saying all beef is steak. While all are made from the FROM P. 40
legs of pigs, the way theyre cured, seasoned, and smokedor not
makes a huge difference. Heres how the slices stack up.
Hoisin City
ALEX DELANY As a kid, my first taste of hoisin
sauce left my taste buds stunned. Sweet,
tart, and fragrant with cinnamon and
anise, it transformed my narrow view of
condiments (not to mention my mu-shu
A. PROSCIUT TO B. PROSCIUT TO C. SPECK pork). Now I think of it as my fridge-
DI PARMA COT TO Youll get a big flavor door secret weapon. Like ketchup, its
Youve probably Moist, tender, and from even the thinnest an instant flavor enhancer that can be
met before. Cured easy to love, slice of this dense, used as a condiment or an ingredient
with nothing more prosciutto cotto ruddy ham. It gets I sub it for Heinz in meatloaf, glaze
than salt and aged cotto means boned out before wings with it, or swipe a little across
between one and two cookedis the Euro being rubbed down
a baguette for banh mi. C H R I S M O R O C C O
years, this Italian version of the deli with a cure laced with
delicacy is a pure ham of your childhood spices like juniper
expression of porcine lunches but more and bay, smoked, and
funk and salt, and flavorful and less aged, resulting
wants to be sliced salty. This is the in a taste that is even
paper-thin and eaten ideal sandwich ham. more intense than I never met a
on its own. Full stop. prosciutto di Parma. buttered noodle
I didnt like,
D. COUNTRY HAM E. JAMN SERRANO F. CIT Y HAM
and my buttered
Cured, smoked, Dont tell our Nothing says Easter starch of the
and hung to dry for Spanish friends, but dinner like a sweet, TEST KITCHEN TALK
months, this is the wed have a hard time spiral-sliced ham.
moment is orzo.
Southern answer to telling this and Italys These guys are brined Claire Saffitz, The quick-cooking,
prosciutto. Its salty, most famous ham instead of dry-cured, senior food editor
with a rich flavor and apart. Its prepared often (though not rice-shaped pasta
deep mahogany color, and served in almost always) smoked, and evokes the pasta salads of yesteryear
just as delicious cut the same way, except usually sold fully
thick and pan-fried for the fact that its cooked, yielding juicy, (in a good way) and is as comforting
as it is shaved and
eaten as charcuterie
usually made from
a specific breed of
tender slabs of porky
goodness just waiting
as any comfort food out there.
with biscuits. Plays white pig indigenous to be baked and Sorry, egg noodlesorzo is what
well with honey. to Spain. glazed to perfection. I want underneath all the soupy
braises and meaty gravies this year.
114 A P R I L 2 0 17
 FROM P. 48

COCONUT
OIL,
CRACKED
So, youre standing
in the supermarket and
cant remember whether
youre supposed to buy
refined or virgin coconut
oil. Weve all been there.
An easy way to remember
is that if you want the
sweet, warm smell of
coconuts to waft from your
final product, choose
virginits made from fresh
coconut meat and doesnt
undergo any chemical
processes, maintaining its
distinctly tropical aroma.
By contrast, the refined
stuff, which is made
from dried coconut and is
chemically stabilized,
FOOD STYLING BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ. ILLUSTRATIONS: BRUCE HUTCHISON (CAULIFLOWER STEAKS, PORTRAIT); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (MIXER, HOISIN).

is basically a neutral oil;

it has a high smoke point
and minimal odor. Go
virgin for your macaroons
and coconut kettle corn,
but opt for refined if
youre scrambling eggs
or roasting veggies.
N I K I TA R I C H A R D S O N
recipe index sourcebook
COOK THE COVER Pasta with Ramp TRAVEL PLANNER SHED 25 North St., Healdsburg, CA;
Fried Egg on Toast Pesto and Guanciale R.S.V.P. pp. 1012 707-431-7433; healdsburgshed.com
with Salted Herb p. 83 COLTIVARE PIZZA & GARDEN 3320 White SPRING 257 S. Spring St., Los Angeles;
Butter and Radishes POULTRY Oak Dr., Houston; 713-637-4095; 213-372-5189; springlosangeles.com
p. 2 Chicken with Buttery coltivarehouston.com TOWNSEND 1623 E. Passyunk Ave.,
Orzo p. 36 PUB ROYALE 2049 W. Division St., Chicago; Philadelphia; 267-639-3203;
APPETIZER townsendrestaurant.com
SEAFOOD 773-661-6874; pubroyale.com
Deviled Eggs on TROIS MEC 716 N. Highland Ave.,
Biscuits with Trout Lemony Fregola with STARTERS pp. 1528 Los Angeles; troismec.com
Roe and Dill p. 98 Cockles and Herbs AUGUSTINE 5 Beekman St., NYC;
p. 83 212-375-0010; augustineny.com A BA KITCHEN PRIMER pp. 3134
BEVERAGE BEIJING NOODLE NO. 9 AT CAESARS PALACE PIZZERIA BEDDIA 115 E. Girard Ave.,
VEGE TARIAN
Frozen Rum-Mango 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Las Vegas; Philadelphia;
Cauliflower Steaks 702-731-7604; caesars.com pizzeriabeddia.wordpress.com
Lassi p. 10 and Pure with
Walnut-Caper Salsa BELLECOUR 739 Lake St. E, Wayzata, MN, CITY GUIDES: KYOTO pp. 5862
BREAKFAST bellecourrestaurant.com
p. 54 AWOMB 189 Ubaynagi-chou, Nakagyo-ku;
Cheesy Grits with CAFE CLUNY 284 W. 12th St., NYC; +81-75-204-5543; awomb.com
Scallions and Eggs Cheesy Grits with
Scallions and Eggs 212-255-6900; cafecluny.com BEFORE9 545 Nijodencho Karasuma Oike
p. 75 CARBONE 3730 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Agaru, Nakagyo-ku; +81-75-741-6492;
p. 75
Fried Egg on Toast Las Vegas; 877-230-2742; aria.com sakahachi.jp
with Salted Herb Fried Egg on Toast GIRO GIRO HITASHINA 420-7 Nanba-cho,
with Salted Herb DAME 2930 NE Killingsworth St.,
Butter and Radishes Butter and Radishes Portland, OR; 503-227-2669; Nishi Kiya-machi-dori, Higashigawa,
p. 2 p. 2 damerestaurant.com Matsubarashita, Shimogyo-ku;
EGGSLUT AT THE COSMOPOLITAN +81-75-343-7070
BREAD Roasted Butternut HITOMI 96 Okiku-cho, Sakyo-ku;
3708 Las Vegas Blvd. S, Las Vegas;
Eastern Carolina Squash with Spiced cosmopolitanlasvegas.com +81-75-771-7818
Style Biscuits p. 98 Chickpeas p. 42 /restaurants/eggslut HONKE OWARIYA 322
SALADS SIDE DISH HENRIETTAS AT THE DEWBERRY Niomontsukinukecho, Nakagyo-ku;
Turnip and Kale 334 Meeting St., Charleston, SC; +81-75-231-3446; honke-owariya.co.jp
Pea and Proscuitto 843-872-9065; KAGIZEN YOSHIFUSA HONTEN 264
Salad p. 12 Gratin p. 98
thedewberrycharleston.com Gionmachi Kitagawa, Higashiyama Ward;
Romaine and Sugar MISCELLANEOUS, HONEY HI 1620 W. Sunset Blvd., +81-75-561-1818; kagizen.co.jp
Snaps with Pecans CONDIMENTS Los Angeles; 213-221-7810; honeyhi.co KYOTO STATION Higashishiokoji
p. 100 Fried Eggs p. 69 LOURSIN 1315 E. Jefferson St., Seattle; Kamadonocho, Shimogyo Ward;
Gribiche Dressing 206-485-7173; loursinseattle.com kyotostation.com/dining-at-kyoto-station
MAIN COURSES
p. 71 LE COQ RICO 30 E. 20th St., NYC; MANMARU NO TSUKI Karasuma Annex 2F,
MEAT Umetadacho Nakagyo-ku;
212-267-7426; lecoqriconyc.com
Hot Sausage and Hard-Boiled Eggs +81-75-211-7123; manmarunotuki.com
p. 70 LE COUCOU 138 Lafayette St., NYC;
Cabbage Stir-Fry 212-271-4252; lecoucou.com NISHIKI MARKET Nishikikoji-dori,
with Chives p. 40 Jammy Soft-Boiled LOTUS OF SIAM 953 E. Sahara Ave., Nakagyo-ku; +81-75-211-3882
Roast Leg of Lamb Eggs p. 74 Suite A5, Las Vegas; 702-735-3033; NOKISHITA711 235 Sendocho,
with Potatoes and Pickled Chiles p. 34 lotusofsiamlv.com Shimogyo-ku; +81-75-746-5675;
Asparagus p. 102 Pickled Eggs p. 71 MAJORELLE AT THE LOWELL 28 E. 63rd St., nokishita.net
Steak and Spring NYC; 212-935-2888; lowellhotel.com OMEN Bus Pool South Ginkakuji Sakyoku;
Poached Eggs p. 73 +81-75-771-8994; omen.co.jp
Veg with Spicy MARCEL 1170 Howell Mill Rd., Atlanta;
Mustard p. 38 Red Sauce p. 32 404-665-4555; marcelatl.com PASS THE BATON 77-6 Sueyoshicho,
White Sauce p. 32 MARUGAME MONZO 3889 Spring Higashiyama-ku; +81-75-708-3668;
PASTA
Mountain Rd., Las Vegas; 702-202-1177 pass-the-baton.com
Bucatini with Swiss DESSERTS SHORAIAN Sagakamenocho, Ukyo-ku,
MIMI 185 Sullivan St., NYC;
Chard and Garlicky Chocolate Macaroon 212-418-1260; miminyc.com Kyoto-shi; +81-75-861-0123;
Breadcrumbs p. 82 Cake p. 50 shoraian.com
MONSIEUR BENJAMIN 451 Gough
Lemony Fregola with Warm St., San Francisco; 415-403-2233; YAMANAKA 337 Sashimonocho,
Cockles and Herbs SesameBanana monsieurbenjamin.com Kawaramachi Ebisugawa-dori Agaru,
p. 83 Pudding Pie p. 102 MONTA RAMEN 5030 Spring Mountain
Nakagyo-ku; +81-75-231-0777;
Pappardelle with Rd., Suite 6, Las Vegas; 702-367-4600; ton-yamanaka.com
Chicken Rag, montaramen.com YORAMU 35-1 Matsuyacho, Nakagyo-ku;
Fennel, and Peas FOR NUTRITIONAL
PETIT CRENN 609 Hayes St., San Francisco; +81-75-213-1512; sakebar-yoramu.com
p. 82 INFO FOR THE
415-864-1744; petitcrenn.com SPRINGTIME IN THE SOUTHLAND
RECIPES IN THIS
Pasta with Baby ISSUE, GO TO PETIT TROIS 718 N. Highland Ave., Los pp. 96103
Artichokes, BONAPPETIT.COM Angeles; 323-468-8916; petittrois.com CHEF & THE FARMER 120 W. Gordon St.,
Mascarpone, and /RECIPES SAUVAGE 905 Lorimer St., Brooklyn; Kinston, NC; 252-208-2433;
Hazelnuts p. 82 718-486-6816; sauvageny.com vivianhoward.com/chef-the-farmer

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11 6 A P R I L 2 0 17
 T H E L AS T B I T E

Debbie Harry
Whats your backstage
essential?

THE VITALS

Inducted into
Rock & Roll
Hall of Fame in
2006
Gig before
making it big
Waitress at
Maxs Kansas City
Who she
waited on
The members of
Jefferson Airplane
Cant resist
Coffee
and chocolate

When your music career spans four decades
and 40 million albums sold, chances are
youve experienced your fair share of
sex, drugs, and rock and roll. But Debbie
Harry isnt shy about what fuels Blondie
albumfeaturing collaborations with Sia and
Charli XCXand this month theyll co-headline
an Australian tour with Cyndi Lauper. Since
all rock stars need at least one tour vice,
Harry always likes to keep a bottle of
ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON

these days: smoked fish and vegetable Chardonnay on hand. But how wild
juices. We try to have a very reliable can things get with white wine? Youd be
menu, says the New Wave icon of her surprised. I was at a festival in Europe
backstage staples. Smoked salmon, once, and the promoter brought out
roast chicken, and always a juicer. Not some Chardonnay, Harry recalls. It was
that Harry has lost her edge; next month so unbelievable. I probably would have slept
Blondie releases Po11inator, the bands 11th studio with it if it had been a person. D A V I D W A L T E R S

11 8 A P R I L 2 0 17 P H OTO G R A P H BY TO M S C H I E R L I T Z