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CE634/OC634LongWaveMechanics

3credits

(Prerequisite:OC/CE630&631:OceanWaveMechanicsI&II)
TTh:12301350atMLM202
Instructor:HarryYeh email:harry@engr.orst.edu

CourseContents:

1.IntroductionandsomeMathematicsPreliminaries.
2.ReviewofFluidMechanics.
Energydissipation
Boundarylayer
IrrotationalflowsEulersIntegralvelocitypotential
BoundaryconditionsJumpconditions
3.FormulationofLongWaveProblem.
DepthintegrationofEulersequationdiscontinuityconditions
Formulationlinearlongwaves&rippletank;fullynonlinearlongwaves;weakly
dispersivelinearlongwaves;weaklynonlinear,weaklydispersivelongwaves.
Boussinesqequation
KdVequation
4.FourierAnalysisandInitialValueProblem
Modelingcriteriaforlongwaves
5.NonlinearShallowWaterWaveTheory
Themethodofcharacteristics;dambreakproblem
WavesonaplanebeachtheCarriermethod
Leadingwaveofabore
6.WeaklyNonlinearLongWaves
TheKdVequation;solitarywave,cnoidalwaves,interactionsofsolitarywave,includingin
classlaboratorydemonstrationofthelongwaveevolution,usingthewaveapparatusinGraf
Hall.
7.EdgeWaves
Shallowwaterwaveapproximation;Ursellsfullwaterwavetheory;Yih'sstationaryedge
waves
Lagrangianformulation

EvaluationofStudentPerformance:4~5setsofhomework(50%),andfinalexam(50%).

LearningResources:Althoughthereisnorequiredtext,thefollowingbookswillbeusedasreferences:
Lamb Hydrodynamics,1932
Whitham LinearandNonlinearWaves,1974
LecturesonWavePropagation,1979
Phillips TheDynamicsofUpperOcean,1977.
Mei, Stiassnie &Yue TheoryandApplicationsofOceanSurfaceWaves,2005.
Lighthill WavesinFluids,1978.
AnIntroductiontoFourierAnalysisandGeneralisedFunctions,1958.
VanDyke PerturbationMethodsinFluidMechanics,1975.
Erdlyi AsymptoticExpansions,1956.
Dean&Dalrymple WaterWaveMechanicsforEngineersandScientists,1984

StudentLearningOutcomes:
Studentswillbeableto:
Definephysicalparametersrequiredforlongwaveapproximation.
Identifyenergydissipationmechanismsassociatedwithlongwaves.
Interpretmathematicaldescriptionsoflongwavephenomena:linearandnonlinear
shallowwaterequations,KdVequation,andBoussinesqequation.
SolvelongwaveevolutionequationusingtheFourierTransformtechniqueand
analyzethephysicalconsequencesofthesolutionwiththelaboratorydemonstration.
Applythefundamentallongwaveformulationtoslopingbeachconditions.
Compareedgewavesolutionsofa)shallowwaterapproximation,b)fullwaterwave
theory,andc)Lagrangianformulation.
Applylongwavesolutionstotsunamipropagationandrunup.

StatementRegardingStudentswithDisabilities:Accommodationsarecollaborativeeffortsbetween
students,facultyandServicesforStudentswithDisabilities(SSD).Studentswithaccommodations
approvedthroughSSDareresponsibleforcontactingthefacultymemberinchargeofthecoursepriorto
orduringthefirstweekofthetermtodiscussaccommodations.Studentswhobelievetheyareeligiblefor
accommodationsbutwhohavenotyetobtainedapprovalthroughSSDshouldcontactSSDimmediately
at7374098.

StatementofExpectationsforStudentConduct:Studentsintheclassareexpectedtoreadthepolicy
describedathttp://oregonstate.edu/admin/stucon.achon.htm.