Puerto Viejo in Limbo

Daniel Talesnik

Puerto Viejo is located 40 km (24 miles) south of Caldera. It is a bay inserted in the coastal desert
of Tal Tal, divided in two zones: a small one, which is a cove of fishermen, and the major one,
which is a squat of about 2000 houses. A small group lives there all year, however is a place where
residents of Copiapo and Caldera spend summers and weekends.

Puerto Viejo is the only squat beach in Chile, at least in these proportions. It is literally a piece of
coast which was occupied by a group of people for summer illegally.

Puerto Viejo is a unique place. The contrast between geographically and built gives spectacular
views, a kind of polychromatic postal washed out by the sun. It has some of the most elemental
tones and forms constructions of the hills of Valparaiso, and the first lines of waterfront homes
evoke the imagery of stilt houses, since several houses are mounted on pillars as straight octopus,
to avoid flooding. All this contained in a stomach-shaped bay framed by high cliffs. There are no
pavements, everything rests on sand.

Puerto Viejo, Daniel Talesnik's photography

Puerto Viejo, surpassing its appeal, has as permanent reality the negative impact that has
generated the irruption of the squat in the ecosystem. In first place is the trash, which undermines
the experience to walk the streets. About 20 km (12 miles) before arriving at the bay, the presence
of the settlement is announced with plastic bags caught in the cactus. secondly, the Puerto Viejo's
reason of life is water. The sea is the main focus of life, which supports fishermen and attracts the
vacationer. Unsanitary conditions generated by wastewater from the whole settlement complicate
the scenario from year to year, polluting the sea and the groundwater layer; and at most there
cesspits, the rest is not planned waste infiltration. The proper functioning of the beach depends
strictly speaking of the enthusiasm of every vacationer. Informality in this case does not work.
In parallel, Puerto Viejo and its situation present a huge opportunity and a disadvantage. On one
side is the possibility of it becoming a better beach and tourist reference. Adding to its particular
morphology, the beach is excellent and the adjoining wetland which is formed in the mouth of
Copiapo's river, has natural and visual enormous value. In addition, there are two new ways to
arrive at Puerto Viejo and create a new situation of connectivity. On the other hand, if the state
through the municipality or other government entity invests in improving Puerto Viejo, it may give
the wrong signal, and encourage other groups to squad other beaches in the country.

Beyond the legal aspects, Puerto Viejo is a place that should become aware of their privilege and
problem. People should organize themselves to erase the traces they leave each summer; achieve
sustainable disorder and move from good intentions into action to quit the limbo.

Daniel Talesnik
Architect Pontificia Universidad de Chile, 2006
2nd place in the International Competition "Environmental Tectonics", organized in London by the
Architectural Association, with the "Drywater" project developed in Puerto Viejo.