VARIATIONS ON WOOD LIGHT FRAME CONSTRUCTION

Framing for Increased Thermal Efficiency

Before: 2x4 (38 x 89 mm) standard size
studs are used; insulation cavity: 3 inches
(89 mm) deep; 16 inches (406 mm) spacing
Now: 2x6 (38 x 140 mm) studs are used;
insulation cavity: 5 inches (140 mm)
deep; spacing of 24 inches (610 mm)
Some methods are:
insulating plastic foam sheathing

Framing for Optimal Lumber Usage

minimizing the use of redundant or structurally
unnecessary wood members, thereby reducing the
amount of lumber required to construct the frame
and, once the frame is insulated, increasing its
thermal efficiency
spacing of framing members
using single top plates in all walls, both bearing
and nonbearing

Prefabricated Framing Assemblies

EXTERIOR FINISHES FOR WOOD LIGHT FRAME CONSTRUCTION

PROTECTION FROM THE WEATHER
Roofing underlayment is a water-resistant or waterproof barrier material that is installed
directly onto your roof deck. It is applied under all other roofing materials as an added layer of
protection from severe weather.
o 3 Main Types of Roofing Underlayment
1. Asphalt-saturated felt
was the go-to roofing underlayment until about 15 years ago
not waterproof but is water-resistant
commonly referred to as felt paper or tar paper, common roofing felt is made of varying blends
of cellulose (natural plant fibers), polyester, bitumen or asphalt
basemat (the flexible base layer) is saturated with asphalt for water resistance
applied across the entire roof deck
with less asphalt being produced, most manufacturers began phasing out asphalt-saturated
underlayments for synthetic underlayments

2. Synthetic underlayment/ non-bitumen synthetic underlayment

is the preferred underlayment of most roofing professionals today
are made from polypropylene or polyethylene
typically non-skid, resistant to fungal growth, and theyre wrinkle-free because they dont absorb
moisture
applied across the entire roof deck

3. Rubberized asphalt
is more expensive than other types pf roofing underlayment. It contains higher percentages of
asphalt and rubber polymers, making it waterproof.
Rubberized asphalt roofing underlayment often has a sticky back with a protective membrane that
is removed prior to installation. This special backing creates the waterproof seal between the
underlayment and a clean roof deck.
 should be added at valleys and around roof protrusions (chimneys, vent pipes, skylights, etc.) -
these spots often get leaky first

Wall Moisture Barriers provides temporary protection from rain and wind during construction
and, once finish siding is installed, also acts as a permanent secondary line of defense against
moisture penetration

The dewpoint in a wall is the point where the drop in temperature causes air to contract,
and water vapor turns to liquid. Since the warmer the air is the more moisture it can hold,
where the dewpoint will be in your wall is determined by the difference in temperature from
indoor to out, and the amount of moisture in the air (RH - Relative Humidity).
A wall system should have one vapor barrier, but can have many air barriers. A vapor
barrier can act as a very effective air barrier, but an air barrier does not (and should not)
always stop vapor from diffusing.
 Gypsum board, commonly known as drywall, is the generic name
for a family of panel products that consist of a noncombustible core,
composed primarily of gypsum, and a paper surfacing on the face,
back and long edges.
Gypsum board walls and ceilings have a number of outstanding
advantages:
Ease of installation Durability
Fire resistance Economy
Sound isolation Versatility

Housewrap, a common type of weather-resistive

barrier (WRB), is installed between the cladding layer and
the sheathing of the wall. It allows water vapor to escape
living spaces and wall cavities (where it might condense
and encourage mold or mildew), at the same time
preventing unwanted outdoor air from creeping into the
home.

ROOFING
PARTS OF ROOF

o Decking/Sheathing
Sheathings are panels that envelope the
rafters. Other components such as metal
panels or shingles are attached to the
sheathing later. Sheathing is a layer used as
the base of the roof. It helps to reflect the
heat that hits the roof and keeps the house
cooler.
o Dormer
Dormers are structures set vertically
around the windows, which project from the
thatched roof. This structure comes with its
own roof. The dormers provide additional
internal space for the attics while adding to
its beauty and character to the house. They
suit a wide range of roof types. Gabled, hip,
 shed, and arched dormers are the most
common types of dormers found.
o Drip Edge
Drip edge is a piece of plastic, metal, or
vinyl that is secured tightly with nails at the
bottom of the roof's edge to facilitate water
drainage. The drip edge enables water to
drain into the gutters and down the fascia. It
should ideally be installed under the roofing
felt, with about an inch of overhang
extending past the fascia, over the gutters.
o Fascia
Fascia is a horizontal trim board that runs
around the end of the rafter. It connects the
roofline and soffit. The gutters are attached
to the fascia.
o Rafter
Rafters make the main framework of the
entire roof, irrespective of the type of the
roof. It rests on the main frame of the wall
and is inclined up to meet the ridge of
another rafter, where they are fastened
together. They are usually spaced with 16
48 inches between each other.
Rafters often extend beyond the walls
and hang to create eaves of the building.
Rafters shelter the main structure from the
direct impact of rain, sun, and snow. It even
helps water and snow to run off and fall
farther away from the main foundation of
the house.
o Common Rafters
These are the beams that extend at right
angles from the plate frame of the roof
ridge. Other rafters are laid out on top of
these rafters.
Jack Rafters Include:
o Cripple jack: Beams that are placed
between hip rafter and valley rafter. This
jack does not touch the ridge or the roof
plate.
o Hip jack: Roof beams that run from the
plate to the hip rafter.
o Valley jack: Extend from the ridge to the
valley rafter.
o Hip Rafters
Beams that extend from the corner of the
plate to the ridge.
o Valley Rafters
The roof beam that extends from the
corner of the plate to the ridge along the
intersection between the two sides of the
roof.
o Ridge and Ridge Vent
Ridge is at the top of the roof where the
two sides meet and form an angle. This runs
down the length of roof. Ridges need to be
shingled or caped to keep the water from
trickling into the main frame of the house.
Ridge vents are installed to keep the attic
ventilated and run along the length of the
ridge. It also helps the warm air to escape
the house and prevents moisture from
building up. Ridges are mostly capped with
ridge cap shingles to maintain an even
appearance.
o Roof Truss
Truss is the framed set of rafters that
supports the roof of the house. This provides
the roof with immense strength. This also
gives a wide variety of shapes and design for
the roof.
o Soffit
Soffit is the horizontal area under the roof
overhang. It is left open past the main walls
of the house; however, they are closed off to
give a finished look.
o Starter Strip
It is a row of shingle material that is
applied under the primary shingle and on
top of the drip edge and underlayment. It
 has 2 main purposes: (i) to protect the
shingles from wind at the bottom of the roof;
(ii) to fill the spaces in between the tabs of
most shingles in order to cover every inch of
the sheathing.
o Underlayment
Underlayment is the second layer of
protection for the roof. It is applied directly
to the roof sheathing to protect the roof
from the elements while shingles are fixed to
the roof. Once fixed, the underlayment will
help repel the moisture.
o Valley
A valley is defined as the area where two
roof fields join to make an inward angle. This
is also an important part of the roof, failure
to which can cause leaks and rotting of the
roof and house.
o Field of Roof
Field of roof is the central and main
portion of the roof.
o Chimney and Chimney Saddles
Chimney is connected to the fireplace to
escort the smoke out of the house. It is a
narrow vertical exhaust, a few feet higher
than the main roof.
Chimney saddles are two sloping surfaces
meeting at the horizontal ridge between the
back and side of the chimney.
o Low-profile Attic Vent
It assists in low penetration ventilation.
o Space Inside
Space inside is the open area above the
ceiling under the roof deck of any steep-
sloped roof.
o Skylight and Sky Saddles
Skylight is a window in the roof made to
allow the daylight to stream in, whereas a
sky saddle is a saddle-shaped frame
connecting a sloping roof to the skylight.
o Flashing
Flashing or step flashing is a flat sheet of
metal or plastic that is nailed over the cracks
between the chimney and the main
structure of the house.
o Rake
Rake is an inclined edge of a roof on top
of a wall.
o Eave
It is the lower part of the roof that
extends beyond the side of the house.
o Gutters
Gutters are vents that carry away the
trickled rainwater.
o Plumbing Vent
It is a device used on the gabble, roof, or
soffit to provide ventilation to the underside
of the roof deck.
o Joist
Joist is the horizontal supporting
member, which runs between beams,
foundations, or walls to support a ceiling. It
is made from wood, steel, or concrete.

Finishing the Eaves and Rakes

The edges of the roof shingles should be positioned and supported in such a way that water flowing
over them will drip free of the trim and siding below. Provision must be made to drain rainwater and
snowmelt from the roof without damaging the structure below.
In most roof assemblies, the eaves must be ventilated to allow free circulation of air beneath the roof
sheathing. And siding, which is not installed until later, must not easily against or into the eave and rake
trim.
Roof Drainage
Where collection of rainwater from roofs is not required by the building code or other regulations,
gutters may be omitted and their associated problems of clogging and ice buildup avoided. Such roofs
should be designed with eaves of sufficient depth to protect the wall below from excessive wetting by
water falling from the roof edge.
To prevent soil erosion and mud spatter from the falling water, the drip line at ground level below
should be provided with a bed of crushed stone or other suitable surface material.
Roof Overhangs and Rain Protection
Roof eaves and other overhangs play an important role in protecting buildings from the weather.
As a rule of thumb, a roof overhang can effectively protect a vertical portion of wall approximately
twice as tall as the depth of the overhang.
Walls w/o overhang are prone to staining, leaking, decay, and premature deterioration of the windows,
doors, and siding.
Roof Shingling
Used in light frame building: asphalt shingles, wood shingle, shake roofs, clay and concrete tile roofs,
architectural sheet metal roofs

WINDOWS
It is a vented barrier secured in a wall opening.
The function of the window is to admit light and
air to the building and to give a view to the
outside.
FRAME - It is an assembly of horizontal
and vertical members, forming an
enclosure, to which the shutters are fixed
SHUTTERS -These are the openable parts
of a door or window.
HEAD -This is the top or uppermost
horizontal part of frame
SILL -This is the lowest or bottom
horizontal part of a window frame, not
provided in door frames.
CASEMENT It is the part the glass sits in, the part that opens.
MULLION - is the central vertical part that makes up the frame on a casement window and
separates two windows.
TRANSOM It is a horizontal part separating two windows
JAMBS - The main vertical parts forming the sides of a window frame.
Basic Types of Windows
Fixed Windows
- a window that cannot be opened, whose function is limited to allowing light to enter. This type
of window is used in situations where light or vision alone is needed as no ventilation is possible
through fixed windows.
Double Hung Windows
- It has two panes, top and bottom that slide up and down in tracks called stiles. The two parts
are not necessarily the same size.
- most new double-hung sash windows use spring balances to support the sashes.
-Only the bottom sash slides upward in a single-hung window. In single-hung windows the top
sash is fixed and cant be moved.
Sliding Windows
- Has two or more sashes that overlap slightly but slide horizontally within the frame.
-Suitable openings or grooves are left in the frame or wall to accommodate the shutters when
shutters are opened.
Pivoted Windows
- In this type of window, the shutter is capable of rotating about a pivot fixed to window frame.
-The frame has no rebate.
- The shutter can swing horizontally or vertically.
Casement Windows
- Casement windows are hinged at the sides.
- When fully opened, offer the maximum amount of ventilation.
- Operates like a hinged door, except that it opens and closes with a lever inside the window.
- The shutter consists of styles, top rail, bottom rail and intermediate rail.
Awning Windows
- are hinged at the top and open outward. They are designed to provide ventilation without letting
in rain, etc.
-Awning windows can be used alone or in vertical or horizontal groups in combination with
additional awning windows, other types of windows, or above doors.
Skylight
- These are fixed windows on the sloping roofs.
- Admit natural light and help distribute light more evenly throughout the room. Considered an
energy saver feature.
- Skylights may be plastic or glass, fixed or operable, and made in any number of sizes and styles.
Tilt/Turn Windows
- are a type of projected window with clever but concealed hardware that allows each window to
be operated either as an inswinging side-hinged window or a hopper.
Installing a Window
Preparing a Rough Opening
1. From inside the house, drive nails through the wall to mark the corners of the window. Then, outside,
outline the opening for the window.
2. Cut through the siding and the sheathing with a power saw, making sure to use the correct blade. Place
the window up to the opening and check for fit. Continue trimming if necessary.
3. Place the window into the opening to verify that it will fit. Be sure to make the opening slightly larger
than the actual window; check the manufacturers instructions to see exactly how much space you should
leave. Cut through the siding and drywall again, if necessary, to provide ample space. Install a vapor barrier
around the opening.
4. Line the opening with 8-inch-wide strips of moisture seal and tuck them into the siding. Slit the corners
of the moisture seal diagonally with a utility knife, and fold the pieces toward the interior. Trim the strips
if necessary until they extend just inside the interior edge of the opening. Then staple them. Check the sill
of the opening for level.
5. At this point, put two small spacers at the bottom of the opening, about 1/2 inch in from the sides.
Check for level, and add shims if needed. Use two 6d (2-inch) nails per pair of shims to affix them to the
opening, but first drill pilot holes to keep the shims from splitting. After they are secured, cut them so
they are flush with the siding.
Mounting a Window
1. After positioning the window, secure the flange. From outside the house, rest the bottom of the
window on the spacers, and then slowly push the top into the opening. Drive a nail partway through the
trim at one of the upper corners. Check that the window is level, make any necessary adjustments to the
shims, and then finish driving the nail. Drive nails at the other corners and then around the perimeter.
2. Insert shims along the sides near the top and bottom of the window and at the midpoint, and adjust
them as needed until the window is plumb. Check to make sure the window is operational, and then
secure the window to the opening by driving nails into the brick mold or casing. Apply flashing and sealant
(outside and inside) according to the manufacturers instructions.
Finishing a Window
1. Shim and fasten the window frame. Affix the trim on the outside, and caulk the space between the
window and the siding, according to the manufacturers directions.
2. On the inside, check the window for level and add shims around the sides until the window is snug in
the opening.
3. Using 8d (2 1/2-inch) finishing nails, nail through the jamb and the shims into the trimmer studs; use a
nailset to set the nailheads just below the surface. Add insulation between the jambs and the trimmer
studs, cut the shims so they are flush with the wall, and then affix the interior trim.