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How to create a custom paintjob (very detailed)

Discussion in 'Racquets' started by User Name, Dec 29, 2007.

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User Name, Dec 29, 2007

There have been multiple requests for a thread on how to go about doing a
custom paintjob. I have done two paintjobs now and have a pretty good
grasp on putting together a quality paintjob. I have done both a jet black
paintjob and a more intricate white/blue babolat paintjob on a prince o3
User Name white.
Semi-Pro

Joined: Jun 27, 2006 *Warning* By repainting a tennis racquet, the warranty will be voided and
Messages: 557 the tennis racquet will be permanently changed.

Supplies

I was able to purchase all of these supplies at true value. The model car
paints (optional) may need to be purchased at a model store.

Paint- If you have an airbrush, that would be fantastic and make the job
considerably easier, but we are going to assume that we don't have an
airbrush on hand. There are a few types of paint to choose from, including,
but not limited to: lacquer, epoxy paint, and regular household paint. When
you decide on your paint, you are going to want to stick with the same type
of paint and brand if possible, this is to avoid any reactions.

Lacquer: I used lacquer on my white babolat paintjob and liked it. It dries
fast, which is tricky, but if you are careful, you will be alright. It dries very
hard and nice and shiny. You can buy it in small spray paint cans for model
cars as well as at any hardware store in white, black, and clear. Below is a
picture of a guitar painted with lacquer and then polished.
Epoxy paint: Epoxy paint is also very very hard. It is used as the paint on a
refrigerator. It is heavy though, and colors are limited to black and white.

Regular paint: These paints are cheap and have many many colors. They are
definitely an option. You can also purchase these in a matte finish, which will
dry very quickly, and give a cool affect, similar to the K90. Matte finishes
don't need a high gloss clear coat.

Personally, I would use lacquer, but is important to put it on in very thin

coats, or it will fog and you will have to start over, I had to and it was not fun.

Primer- You are going to need a primer to put on the racquet after you strip
down the paint. I would recommend bondo's car primer. It will fill any little
nicks in the racquet and give you a nice surface to work with. It comes in
gray and white I believe. If you are doing a lighter colored paintjob, then go
with white, darker, go with gray.

Sandpaper-Sandpaper is very key. You will need to get sandpaper in a

variety of grits. 100 grit to help strip the paint, 250-400 grit to finish the
stripping, 600 grit to sand between coats, and 1000-1200 grit (wet) for the
final sanding.

Masking Tape-Masking tape I found works better than painters tape, it

holds on easier.

Paint stripper-Paint stripper is really needed to remove all the paint. I had
to remove the paint from an o3, which was easily the most difficult stage in
the entire process. Make sure to wear gloves and cover your working area.

Steel wool-You will want to use a medium grit steel wool with the stripping.
Foam paintbrush- You will need multiple of these for painting on paint
stripper.

New grommets-It is possible to just use the old grommets, but I would
recommend taking advantage of TW's cheap shipping on small orders.

A room-temperature ventilated area-For the paint to dry, you will need a

relatively warm ventilated area.

The Process

The main steps for a custom paintjob include:

1.) Preparation
a.)Choosing the racquet and desired paintjob
b.)Stripping, sanding, and cleaning the frame
2.) Priming
a.)Choose a primer ex. gray for dark, white for light
b.)Paint the racquet with several thin coats of primer
c.)Lightly sand primer
3.) Paint
a.)Mask off accordingly
b.)Paint with light thin coats sanding between coats
4.) Finish
a.)Finish with a clear coat to seal the job
b.)Put the grommets back into the racquet

Below, is a more in-depth description of the entire process

1.)[size=+1]Preparation[/size]: To begin with, you will need to choose your

racquet and the desired design for the paintjob. To test out your ideas for
paintjobs, you can use powerpoint to create a tennis racquet and draw out
your design. You can also simply use a piece of paper and markers. Once you
know what you will be painting, go out and get your supplies as listed
above.Before you start into the process, remove all grommets.
Now, is the most difficult part of the process, the stripping. If you dont mind
the surface having small imperfections, then you don't need to take off all of
the paint, you can just sand down some of the paint and go onto priming. If
you want to have a perfect surface, then you will want to use stripper and
take off all of the paint. This will most likely take 2-3 hours if not longer. If
you choose a racquet without a lot of small oddly shaped areas (any o3) then
it will take longer. Cover the handle of the racquet with masking tape. Put
gloves on now. You will need to start off by using a foam paintbrush to cover
the racquet with stripper. Then, leave it for 15 minutes. Don't get excited
and start using the steel wool when the paint starts to peel wait and be
patient. After 15 minutes, take the steel wool and begin to scrape away at
the racquet. The scuffing pads on sponges also work well. This should begin
to remove some of the paint. Now, repeat painting the stripper and wait.
Continue to do this until almost all of the paint has been removed. Now, you
can begin to sand. Sanding takes much much longer than stripping, so make
sure that you have removed most of the paint before you begin to sand.
Start off with 150-200 grit and get progressively finer. Now, take the
racquet to the sink and gently wash it, to remove the paint remover and
sanding dust. Otherwise, the primer would not be very happy. The racquet
now needs a little time to dry.

2.)[size=+1]Priming[/size]: Now, you can begin to apply the primer. Spray it

on in very thin coats, trust me be patient. Some primers will instruct you to
let it dry for 45 minutes or so and apply the next thin coat. Continue to do
this until you are satisfied with the coating. after your final coat, allow at
least 24 hours to dry. When it is completely dried, you can sand it very
lightly with about 400 grit.

3.)[size=+1]Painting[/size]: It is now time to paint.

Black Frame: If you are just painting a jet black frame, then just use a black
paint and paint it in thin coats as instructed. You can add a final clear coat of
lacquer if you would like, but I don't recommend mixing paint types.

Detailed Frame: For a more detailed design, you will want to paint the
region of the detail and try to mask off the regions that you don't want
painted that color. Follow the paint instructions and allow 24 hours to dry.
Don't rush it and make sure to use very thin coats. It will be worth it. When
that is dry, lightly sand it and mask off the areas that you want the design to
be in. Now paint the next color and mask off appropriately if you want
another design color. Try to paint the main color last. Below is directions for
making letters.

Making letters or logos: To do this, you will need to buy sheets of labels that
you can print on. They can just be labels like "Hi, my name is..." labels. Then,
find your logo or letters and print them onto the sheet. Allow a moment for
the printer ink to dry. Then, use a very sharp pair of scissors and very
carefully cut out the letters or logo. Once this is done, peel off the backing of
the stickers and place the on the racquet where you would like them. Place
them on the detail color and paint the main color over them. Then, when the
paint is dry enough to handle, carefully peel them off. Do this carefully, so
that you don't peel up unwanted paint. And viola... you have your letters of
logo.

Once you have your final coats on the racquet, sand it with the finest grit
sandpaper you can find. Then, spray paint a clear coat on the racquet. You
will also want do this is several thin coats. Allow the final product at least 48
hours to dry to handle. Don't string it up yet though. You will probably want
to let it dry about a week. Then, put in the new grommets and you are all set.

And there you go, you have your brand new custom paintjob. Below is a list
of important things to know as you are going about this project.

-This process can take up to 4 weeks or more to complete. Take your time,
you will appreciate it in the end.

-Ask someone at a paint store or your local hardware store for specific
directions on painting with lacquer if that is your chosen paint. It is rather
difficult to use due to it drying so quickly and fogging in coats that are too
thick. Look carefully at the directions on the can.

-Be careful when pulling up the maskings, otherwise, your whole design can
be ruined.

-If you want to change just one color on your racquet like chris_in_japan's
blue K-factor, I think that you would want to mask off the areas you want to
keep, lightly sand the other areas, and paint them that color. I assume this is
how you would go about changing the color of your microgel, but I am not as
familiar in this type of painting, so you may want to ask chris_in_japan about
how he does it.

-Touch the racquet as little as possible throughout the process. When you
paint a new coat on the racquet, it reactivates the old paint and will be very
easy to leave fingerprints in.

-Have fun with it and be sure to show it off on the court.

Well, there you go. I hope this answers some questions on how to go about
painting a custom paintjob. I hope you enjoy this and maybe this could be
stickied, so that everyone is able to find it.

Last edited: Dec 29, 2007

#1
 Aeropro master, Dec 29, 2007

thanks username! this will help a lot

Aeropro master
Professional #2
Joined: May 6, 2007
Messages: 899
Location: Cincinnati

A.J. Sim, Dec 29, 2007

thanks for the advice; that's a cool looking white paint job.

Did you play with your painted rackets and notice any significant weight or
balance differences, or did you just hang them up as cool designer pieces at
A.J. Sim your house?
Rookie
#3
Joined: May 1, 2005
Messages: 187

User Name, Dec 29, 2007

of coarse i play with it, it plays basically identical. I can't notice a difference. I
measured it on a very accurate jewelers scale and it is about 5 grams off to
the heavy side and thats probably cause it has a leather grip with an
overgrip. Also, the lacquer is pretty durable
User Name
Semi-Pro #4
Joined: Jun 27, 2006
Messages: 557

Sixpointone, Dec 29, 2007

Excellent post and excellent Custom Painted Racquet. Thank You for
sharing!

Sixpointone
Professional #5
Joined: Feb 1, 2005
Messages: 959
 User Name, Dec 29, 2007

your very welcome, I tried to put in as much detail as possible, i know when i
was putting together my first paintjob, it was a real challenge to find
information on how to do it. Does anyone know how to get a thread
stickified?
User Name
Semi-Pro #6
Joined: Jun 27, 2006
Messages: 557

35201, Dec 29, 2007

User Name said:

your very welcome, I tried to put in as much detail as

possible, i know when i was putting together my first
paintjob, it was a real challenge to find information on
35201 how to do it. Does anyone know how to get a thread
Rookie stickified?

Joined: Jul 30, 2007

Messages: 131 I think a either a mod or an admin has to do it. Maybe PM one?

Thanks for the thread, though! I know that I'd want to do a paintjob in the
future, so this is very helpful.

#7

Sixpointone, Dec 29, 2007

User Name said:

your very welcome, I tried to put in as much detail as

possible, i know when i was putting together my first
paintjob, it was a real challenge to find information on
Sixpointone how to do it. Does anyone know how to get a thread
Professional stickified?

Joined: Feb 1, 2005

Messages: 959 Hi User Name,

My best guess would be to have you email a Moderator in regards to

potentially havbing a Thread made into a Sticky at the Top of the Forum.

Hope that helps,

John
 #8

jayserinos99, Dec 29, 2007

Great thread UserName. Just curious, what are your thoughts on using an
electric hand sander for these types of projects?

jayserinos99
Hall of Fame #9
Joined: Feb 18, 2004
Messages: 2,965

User Name, Dec 29, 2007

the only thing with that would be that graphite is pretty soft and you can go
through it pretty easily, just going at it by hand i think is the way to go

User Name
Semi-Pro #10
Joined: Jun 27, 2006
Messages: 557

35201, Dec 29, 2007

How long does it usually take someone to completely remove the paint if
they're using sandpaper?

35201
Rookie #11
Joined: Jul 30, 2007
Messages: 131

User Name, Dec 29, 2007

if its just sandpaper, then it can take a while and if your using like 400 grit, it
could take up to 6-7 hours

User Name
Semi-Pro #12
Joined: Jun 27, 2006
Messages: 557

adams_1, Dec 29, 2007

This looks like a great guide. Great detail. Could be handy if I ever decide to
have a go.

adams_1
Semi-Pro Last edited: Jan 1, 2008

Joined: Oct 18, 2007 #13

Messages: 725
Location: Australia

Lotto, Dec 29, 2007

Thanks for the guide! I don't think I'm going to have a go though! I don't
think the K Six One Team really needs a paintjob does it? The only thing I
was going to do with it was put my name on it. I was thinking of putting it on
both sides at the top wheres there's a white arch sort of bit. What would I do
Lotto in this situation. Print the letters, stick them on and paint over the letters
Professional with something?? Thanks.
Joined: Nov 26, 2007
#14
Messages: 1,217

User Name, Dec 29, 2007

well, you would have to print out the letters, but use the outline of the
letters and paint on those, the only thing is, i dont know how well it would
hold on if ur just painting on the finished frame, maybe if you put down the
outline, then sanded that area a little, then painted, but you would have to
User Name make sure to mask off the rest of your racquet. think about whether it is
Semi-Pro worth it, cause im not sure how it would work out
Joined: Jun 27, 2006 #15
Messages: 557

VikingSamurai, Dec 29, 2007

Just find a clear sticker film and print your name out on a computer.. Once
you have printed it out, let it dry and then hit the sheet with a clear spray
(hardware store) and let dry completely.. Once that is done, then put it on
the racquet. May fade after a while.. But if you know how to make home
VikingSamurai made decals, that may even be a better option also.. As long as you use a
Banned setting solution before applying, and the sealing solution after, then you
Joined: Dec 15, 2006 shouldn't have any trouble with it comming off too easily..
Messages: 3,497
Location: #16
F ukuoka Japan, via
Atlanta GA, originally
Brisban

diredesire, Dec 29, 2007

I'd also suggest some gloves so you don't kill your liver working with the
nasty paint stripper.

I'll sticky this, but I think I may have to merge it with the Racquet FAQ at a
diredesire later date with your permission, UN.
Adjunct Moderator

Joined: Mar 16, 2004 Let me know if that's OK. You should be able to edit it as normal, and maybe
Messages: 6,853 we can keep this thread separate, for discussion?
#17

Aeropro master, Dec 29, 2007

Username, how long did it take you to make your custom racket?

Aeropro master
Professional #18
Joined: May 6, 2007
Messages: 899
Location: Cincinnati

Aeropro master, Dec 29, 2007

sorry double post!

Aeropro master
Professional #19
Joined: May 6, 2007
Messages: 899
Location: Cincinnati
 federer envies me, Dec 29, 2007

great job!!! you have inspired me to customize my own raquet

federer envies me
Semi-Pro #20
Joined: Jul 22, 2007
Messages: 632
Location: Cincinnati

User Name, Dec 29, 2007

Chris_in_japan-It would be great if you could make a section that i could add
on adding the lettering and details, including masking off areas and adding
lettering and logos. You know more about that than anyone on TT. If you
could just go a little in depth on that sort of stuff, that would be great.
User Name
Semi-Pro diredesire- Whatever you think most appropriate. How does merging it with
Joined: Jun 27, 2006 racquet FAQ work? I just want something like this to be easy to find, since it
Messages: 557 is becoming a more popular topic of interest. Also, when something is
stickied, it can still be discussed right? Thanks for the help and getting it
stickied.

Aeropro master- It took me about a month because i was working little by

little and waiting for different supplies to be shipped... grommets, strings,
etc. Total work including dry time would most likely come out to two weeks,
but i could have been more careful.

Warning to everyone, this is a big project and does take a lot of time.
I would recommend doing it on an old back up frame to get an idea of it.
Then go after your frame if your confident.

once again, enjoy it.

#21

diredesire, Dec 30, 2007

User Name said:

diredesire- Whatever you think most appropriate. How

does merging it with racquet FAQ work? I just want
something like this to be easy to find, since it is becoming
diredesire a more popular topic of interest. Also, when something is
Adjunct Moderator stickied, it can still be discussed right? Thanks for the help
Joined: Mar 16, 2004 and getting it stickied.
Messages: 6,853

I'll probably just (try) to get the first/original post in the sticky, and link to
this thread, that way it can still be discussed.

#22

User Name, Dec 30, 2007

that'd be great

User Name
Semi-Pro #23
Joined: Jun 27, 2006
Messages: 557

DY3K1D, Jan 5, 2008

did u take off the head guard on the racquet while taking everytihng off?
please let me know if u dont know what i mean

DY3K1D
Rookie #24
Joined: Aug 11, 2007
Messages: 166
Location:
Pacific Beach, San Diego,
California

joe sch, Jan 6, 2008

Need help identifying some yonex, head, and price player racket paintjobs.
There were for some tour players to test for possible upgrades. Sorry for the
poor pictures.

joe sch http://www.woodtennis.com/paintjobs/8paintjobsa.jpg

Legend http://www.woodtennis.com/paintjobs/8paintjobsb.jpg
Joined: Feb 19, 2004 #25
Messages: 5,339
Location: Hotel CA
 anbu4ever11, Jan 13, 2008

i get how its done except when it comes to grommets

i understand all that but i have a question.im goin to try and test paint on a
crappy racket that i own doing it the way u showed except not stripping off
anbu4ever11 the rackets original paint but putting on a base and then whatever colors i
Semi-Pro want to use.but my question is while you spray do u try not to spray onto the
Joined: Jun 10, 2007 grommet holes?or does that not matter?cause lets say i did and a layer went
Messages: 428 on it can i just poke the holes were there suppose to be?im confused on that
Location: illinois i guess.thanks

#26

User Name, Jan 16, 2008

yeah, the grommet holes dont get covered by paint, you should be fine in
terms of that, but do be aware that you take the grommets out when you
paint

User Name
Semi-Pro #27
Joined: Jun 27, 2006
Messages: 557

adrianwansk, Jan 17, 2008

can u plz show us a video on how to do it thanks, plus is it harder to paint the
wilson W sign on, thanks alot

adrianwansk
New User #28
Joined: Jan 13, 2008
Messages: 57

rosenstar, Jan 17, 2008

adrianwansk said:

can u plz show us a video on how to do it thanks, plus is it

harder to paint the wilson W sign on, thanks alot

rosenstar I keep meaning to pj one of my frames when I get a chance, and I decided
Professional
that for stuff like this, I would:
Joined: Jul 24, 2006
Messages: 1,142
1. Print a copy of the Symbol or lettering on adhesive paper and cut it out.

2. put the first layer of paint on (the color that you want the
symbol/lettering to be). Put the appropriate number of coats on and sand as
necessary.

3. place the newly made "sticker" on the frame

4. Do the next layer of paint. Again do as many coats as necessary and sand
as needed.

5. Peel the "sticker" off, and you will be left with the desired color

6. put the clear coat on the frame.

I haven't done this personally yet, so I'm not 100% sure that it'll work, but I
don't see a reason why it wouldn't.
#29

SCARFULZ, Jan 17, 2008

rosenstar said:

I keep meaning to pj one of my frames when I get a

chance, and I decided that for stuff like this, I would:

SCARFULZ 1. Print a copy of the Symbol or lettering on adhesive

Guest paper and cut it out.

2. put the first layer of paint on (the color that you want
the symbol/lettering to be). Put the appropriate number
of coats on and sand as Click to expand...
necessary.

Lets say I want my racquet to be all black but with silver writing and designs
on it... i will prime the racquet... then paint the whole thing with a few light
coats of silver and sand in between. then place my stickers on and go over
the entire frame again with black... is this correct??

#30

rosenstar, Jan 19, 2008

SCARFULZ said:

Lets say I want my racquet to be all black but with silver

writing and designs on it... i will prime the racquet... then
paint the whole thing with a few light coats of silver and
rosenstar sand in between. then place my stickers on and go over
Professional the entire frame again with black... is this correct??

Joined: Jul 24, 2006

Messages: 1,142 that's what I suggest. After the black has dried you will peel off the stickers
and the silver will still be there. Then you'd put a clear coat on top seal it and
finish the paint job. I think that, assuming your using spray paint, this is the
easiest way to paint designs, logos, stencils, and characters on your racquet.

It's essencially the same thing as putting masking tape over molding when
your painting a wall. you can get paint on the tape, but when you peel it off
the molding's exactly the same.
#31

djnick66, Jan 21, 2008

Paint Details

I own a hobby shop and have had 30+ years experience using both model
paints and store-bought enamel and laquer paints.
djnick66
New User Many model paints are enamels, but a majority of brands now are going to
Joined: Jan 15, 2008 acrylics. All of your model spray paints are enamels or solvent based. The
Messages: 40 acrylics can be durable though. They aren't like poster paints that soften up
Location: central florida when wet. Once they are dry they are permanant and quite hard to remove.
They can me harder to strip or remove than enamels.

The potential problem with model enamel paints is that they are somewhat
soft compared to more industrial paint jobs. Its hard to polish and buff
enamels like you can lacquers or harder paints. You just wear through them
if you aren't careful. Some colors like metallics can be very soft and don't dry
well... they will be tacky for months and will leave finger prints or rub off on
your fingers.

Clear coats work very well. Clear coats can change the color of metallics.
Silver will turn grey for example. Some of the better clear coats are lacquers
but those will blister and craze enamel and acrylic paints. Compatability is a
big problem if you aren't careful.

You might potentially have problems with cracking due to flex in the
racquet. The paints aren't desinged to flex. Letting the base coat dry a long
time (few weeks) before applying any kind of clear coat will help. THen let
the clear coat dry.

For the average person wanting to repaint a racquet I would recommend the
 Tamiya brand of spray paints and primers. Their spray paints are plastic-safe
lacquers. They go on VERY smoothly, without runs, drips, splattering, etc. I
use an airbrush a lot, but when I want simple, one-color finishes, I always use
the Tamiya sprays. Plus they dry very quickly. The metallic colors are also
excellent. They offer the usual gold, silver, aluminum shades, but also
gunmetal, dark gunmetal, metallic blue, metallic red, metallic green, etc., and
also clear colors to apply over metallics for a candy finish.

I would prime the racquet with Tamiya's super fine white spray primer.
Especially if you want to paint it in a light or bright color. Any nicks or
scratches can be filled with their liquid white brush on primer and lightly
sanded out. Then apply the colors of your choice iwth the sprays. Tamiya's
own brand of tape is excellent for masking. Its flexible and if you apply it
right, you won't get paint creep. You can also decant the spray cans and
airbrush the lacquers. They even brush paint well for little touch ups.

Paint rules of thumb... acrylics go over any finish. You can apply enamels
over acrylics or lacquers. Lacquers will melt acrylic or enamel paints

With an airbrush you can paint some lacquers over other paints becuase
they go on very thin and dry quickly.

For a clear coat, on Tamiya paints I recommend their own clear gloss Spray.
Several thin coats followed by a heavy wet coat give a beautiful high gloss.

Future Floor Wax (Johnsons Klear outside the USA) is also an excellent high
gloss clear. Check on a site like hyperscale's aircraft modelling board for
Future tips. You can airbrush it, dip things, etc.

#32

TsongaBonga, Jan 25, 2008

Wow thanx dude, I'm new so its so cool to see all this! Umm i've already
done a racket, lol, it was an old beat up PS 85 I found for 20 bucks in a garage
sale! Its now a K factor Equivalent to a K90. Except instead of red at 9 and 3
o'clock its lime green!
TsongaBonga
Rookie #33
Joined: Jan 25, 2008
Messages: 213

dunlop kid, Jan 26, 2008

Tsonga bonga can u post a pic?

 #34

dunlop kid
Semi-Pro

Joined: Dec 23, 2007

Messages: 474
Location: Australia

rosewall4ever, Jan 27, 2008

I've done this b4 aswell but with single colour. Laquer is very much advised if
you don't want paint to chip....ALSO use SPRAY PAINT ONLY!!Try a hand job
and your asking for trouble...except if your a expert modeller.

rosewall4ever
Semi-Pro Also if you want to refurb new racquets please remove grommets b4 hand.
Joined: Dec 24, 2007
Messages: 501 If you want to fix paint chips i would advise 'Tammiya putty' (modelling
cement based available in most modelling shops) and sand prior primming.

#35

User Name, Jan 28, 2008

yeah, Tsongabonga, could we get some pictures it sounds great

User Name
Semi-Pro #36
Joined: Jun 27, 2006
Messages: 557

CGMemphis, Jan 28, 2008

When I do pj's one of things that is very, very helpful is pinstriping tape. It
comes in different thicknesses to get some of thinner lines and such.

I am about to do a pj for a customer and will do a photo-tutorial to add to

CGMemphis this already excellent thread.
Rookie
Joined: Dec 10, 2007 #37
Messages: 389
Location: Memphis, TN

Diabolu, Jan 31, 2008

CGMemphis said:

When I do pj's one of things that is very, very helpful is

pinstriping tape. It comes in different thicknesses to get
some of thinner lines and such.
Diabolu
New User I am about to do a pj for a customer and will do a photo-
tutorial to add to this already excellent thread.
Joined: Jun 19, 2007
Messages: 97

Can't wait mate. I'll be Keeping and eye on this thread as I want to do my
RDS-1's in a good metallic blue.

#38

monkey-ranch, Feb 10, 2008

Mr. Use Name, You...are...the...beeessstttt!!!!!!!!!!! And A Big Cheer To

Those Who Colaborated In This Post! Finally I Can Do It The Correct Way!!

monkey-ranch
Banned #39
Joined: Sep 25, 2007
Messages: 104
Location:
Central Florida

Gorecki, Feb 11, 2008

i have one doubt. will the paint stripper affect the carbon fibers?
i have been doing it very gently and in very small areas to avoid that
eventualy. it is taking me for ages...

Gorecki
G.O.A.T. #40
Joined: Jul 20, 2007
Messages: 13,688
Location:
Puerto y Galgo....
 Roger Federer 95, Feb 13, 2008

cool!!!!
I wish my mom would let me paint my babolat!

Roger Federer 95
Rookie #41
Joined: Feb 4, 2008
Messages: 128
Location: Tucson,AZ

Josherer, Feb 15, 2008

I'd love to give my racket a paint job..

I don't think im talented enough theough

Josherer
Professional #42
Joined: Feb 11, 2008
Messages: 1,337
Location: Australia

strictref, Mar 9, 2008

Nice paint job, thanks for the info.

strictref
New User #43
Joined: Apr 23, 2007
Messages: 10
Location: Virginia, US

CGMemphis, Mar 9, 2008

No pics now, apparently the customer, in very bad form, backed out of the
deal without saying a word.

Great thread none the less, my own pj's will be posted sometime in May,
CGMemphis after my wedding.
Rookie
#44
Joined: Dec 10, 2007
Messages: 389
Location: Memphis, TN

Loco4Tennis, Mar 9, 2008

ive painted 2 racquets so far,

the last one i am still letting it dry (need pattiense, and lots of it), even on my
secod racquet i still learned a couple of things i could ahve done better,
so, if your thinking about doing this to your racquets, i would practise on
Loco4Tennis some cheap ones first, like i mentioned, 1 practise racquet does not seem to
Hall of Fame be enough to get it right, also it's a lot of work, but well worth it when you
Joined: Jul 29, 2007 finish
Messages: 1,814
#45
Location:
Manassas, Virginia

Loco4Tennis, Mar 9, 2008

User Name said:

Chris_in_japan-It would be great if you could make a

section that i could add on adding the lettering and
details, including masking off areas and adding lettering
Loco4Tennis and logos. You know more about that than anyone on TT.
Hall of Fame If you could just go a little in depth on that sort of stuff,
that would be great.
Joined: Jul 29, 2007
Messages: 1,814
Location:
diredesire- Whatever you think most appropriate. How
Click to expand...
does merging it with racquet FAQ work? I just want
Manassas, Virginia

good post and good advise, i also mentioned trying on a practise frame first

one thing about the lettering i found out on my lattest frame its that you can
buy stickers at the store with different size letters and all,
one of the parts i messed up on and will not do again is paint arround the
letter like a stencil, i would intead suggest painting the sticker letters the
color you want and then sticking them on the racquet for good, otherwise
when not stuck on right it will bleed under the letter and it looks bad when
you pull them off
also the sticker on the letters does not come off easy, so it can leave residue
on the racquet as well, or pulls the paint underneath off

on my next racquet i plan to stick the painted letters at almost the end,
thats about when i apply the 2 layers of clear cote to seal in the paint job
Last edited: Mar 9, 2008

#46
 doublefault2008, Mar 11, 2008

Does the paint come off or scratches whenever being clamped by a stringer?

doublefault2008
Rookie #47
Joined: Feb 8, 2008
Messages: 146

Loco4Tennis, Mar 12, 2008

doublefault2008 said:

Does the paint come off or scratches whenever being

clamped by a stringer?

Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame
yes,,, i hate it, what i have done to minimize this is use masking tape on the
contact point, so basically i will tape up the machine before i clamp it down
Joined: Jul 29, 2007
on the stringing maunting points, i also got in the havit of using a cardboard
Messages: 1,814
Location: where the string will rub the frame "Y" section when pulling, this has left
Manassas, Virginia marks on the racquet for me as well
#48

User Name, Mar 15, 2008

yeah ive used cardboard and towel where the string rubs. i waited a few
weeks before stringing and that allowed the paint to cure. Loco could we see
some pic of the seconds one? Thanks.

User Name
Semi-Pro #49
Joined: Jun 27, 2006
Messages: 557

Loco4Tennis, Mar 16, 2008

sorry for the wait, here are the pics of my second racquet i painted
 Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame

Joined: Jul 29, 2007

Messages: 1,814
Location:
Manassas, Virginia

#50

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