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Home » The Fabulous Four: Mods for your Strat, Tele, Les Paul, and "Super Strat"
more... Guitars • Gear • How-Tos • Guitar & Bass Mods • DIY • LP-Style • S-Style • T-Style • September
2013
Given this heritage, it goes without saying that these guitars are often already equipped with circuits far more
elaborate than the classic axes we’ve been discussing up to this point. But there’s still one area in which
many of them can still be improved. That’s where our fourth fab project—the treble-bleed mod—comes in.
“Super strats” are often used with heavy distortion, but unless they’ve got active electronics, as soon as you
turn down their volume knob(s) to get a cleaner tone, the sound gets muddy and less defined. As previously
described, this is because a good portion of the high-end content is bled to ground.
So what is a treble-bleed network and what does it do? In layman’s terms, it´s a combination of a small
capacitor and a resistor wired in parallel (there are also variations with a cap only or a resistor in series with a
cap). Techies sometimes call it an “RC network” (the “RC” referring to the resistor and capacitor), a "high-
pass filter," or a “treble-bypass filter.” The theory behind this simple circuit is much more complicated than it
looks, so I’ll break it down the simplest way I can. As a rule of thumb, the circuit’s brightness is determined
by the resistor’s value (i.e., a lower ohm rating translates to more treble), but the frequencies that are present
are determined by the cap´s value (i.e., the lower the value, the higher the frequencies, and the higher the
value the lower the frequencies).
When you roll down the volume in a treble-bled circuit, it begins filtering out bass frequencies, thus making
the trebles more prominent. To be clear, it doesn’t boost trebles—a passive circuit can only selectively
attenuate. But with a little trial and error, you can fine-tune your circuit’s component values in order to filter
out the specific frequencies that are muddying your signal when you turn down. And the result can be just as
effective—if not more so—than a boost, because it lifts the metaphorical wooly carpet from off your signal
without boosting a handful of frequencies out of the context of an overall band mix.
Given the huge range of variables in the rest of your “super strat’s” circuit—from pot values to pickup
magnets and output ratings—it’s almost impossible to specify which capacitors and resistors will work best
for your project (never mind what the rest of your signal chain looks like). But a good starting point is to get
some small caps—say, from 220 pF up to 1200 pF—and resistors—from 100k ? up to 330k ?—and start
experimenting to find out what works best for your guitar, your rig, and your musical preferences.
The easiest way to experiment and find the optimum capacitor and resistor values is to solder two wires to
the input and output of the volume pot, and then connect an alligator clip to each of the free ends. This way
you can let the two wires hang out from the control compartment for fast access. Try a bunch of different cap
and resistor values, and when you’ve found your favorite combination, solder it into the circuit permanently
and remove the two test wires. Then your shred machine will be an even more versatile and great-sounding
guitar, no matter how much distortion you’ve got it going through!
Wiring diagram for the “super strat” treble-bleed mod. Diagram courtesy of Seymour Duncan Pickups.
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Dirk Wacker lives in Germany and has been a guitar addict since age 5. He’s also a hardcore DIY-er for
guitars, amps, and stompboxes and runs a website on the subject (singlecoil.com). When not working at his
guitar workbench, he plays country, rockabilly, surf, and flamenco. Contact him at info@singlecoil.com.
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