Seams and stitch classification

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Seams and classification

What is Seam?
A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in
producing a three -dimensional shape of a
garment.
Properties of good seam are,
Smooth fabric joints
No Missed or Uneven stitches
No damage to the material being
sewn
Achievement of strength,
elasticity, Durability, security
and comfort
Comfortable while garment is in
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Seams and classification

SEAM CONSTRUCTION Categorized by the

British Standards Institution (BS 3870 PART
II: 1991, also ISO 4916:1991) The Stitched
seams are divided into eight classes:
Class 1 -Plain seam & French seam
(SI Seam)
Class 2 -Welt seam or Lapped seam
Class 3 -Bound seam
Class 4 -Channel seam or flat seam
Class 5 -Ornamental seam
Class 6 -Turned hem or edge
neatening
Class 7 -Edge stitched seam
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Seams and classification

SEAMS DESIGNATION

Each stitched seam is designed numerically by

five digits:

0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-

8;

0.00.00 refers to the material

configuration,
01 to 99;

0.00.00 refers to needle

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Seams and classification

PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED

SEAM

Formed by superimposing the edge of one

piece of component over the other, these
seams are produced with a minimum of two
pieces of component.

Each component is limited on the same end.

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Seams and classification

PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED

SEAM-

* In this category of seams in which two

or more plies of fabric are overlaid, one
on top of the other with raw edges aligned
and sewn together at a designated
distance from the raw edge, with one or
more rows of stitching.
* Produce a single or two step operation
* most common for apparel production
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Seams and classification

PLAIN SEAM or SUPERIMPOSED

SEAM-
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Seams and classification

* Formed by lapping two pieces of

component, they are produced with minimum
of two pieces of component.

* One component is limited on one end and

the other is limited on the other end. The
limited edges of these two components are
put in opposite directions.
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Seams and classification

In this category of seams in which two or

more plies of fabric are overlapped with the
raw edges exposed (for fabrics resistant to
raveling) or the seam allowance is folded
under and stitched with one or more rows of
stitching.
* Used for: main seaming of denim jackets,
jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not
ravel, unlined garments, side seams of
shirts, joining lace to another fabric,
attaching patch pockets, decorative finish
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Seams and classification

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Seams and classification

Constructed by binding the component edge

with another narrow component. The seam
produced with minimum of two pieces of
component.
One component is limited on one end and
the other is limited on both ends.
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Seams and classification

* In this category of seams in which the raw

edges of the seam allowance of one ore more
plies of fabric, are covered with a bias
binding and stitched with one ore more rows
of stitching.

* Used for : finishing necklines, sleeves hems,

inside waistbands of trousers and pants,
finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats,
adding interest as a design or decorative
detail, finishing raw edges, continuing the
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Seams and classification

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Seams and classification

Two pieces of fabric are laid flat with their

edges closing each other without overlapping.
Seams are produced with minimum of two
pieces of component.
Both components are limited on one end but
they are put opposition to each other on the
same level.
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Seams and classification

* In this category of seams in which the raw

edges of the fabric plies are abutted or just
slightly overlapped and joined together with
stitching that covers the joint. Flat seams do
not contain seam allowances, reducing fabric
usage but increasing thread quantity.

* Used for: close fitting garments where the

seam allowance may put pressure on the body,
high-stretch fabrics, athletic apparel, shape
wear, undergarments, lingerie, thermal
underwear, swimwear, sweatshirts with side
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Seams and classification

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Seams and classification

A seam class for decorative sewing on

garments.
Seams are produced with minimum of one piece
of component, with unlimited edges on both
ends.
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Seams and classification

* Inthis category of seams that add

ornamentation to one or more plies of fabric
by creating straight or curved lines or a
designated design.

* Used for: adding a design detail, cording,

piping, tucking, welting, box or inverted
pleating, decorative stitching
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Seams and classification

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Seams and classification

Stitching work made on the fabric edges for

neatening.
Seams are produced with one piece of
component. This seam has one limited edge on
one end.
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Seams and classification

In this category of seam constructed with one or two

plies of fabric used to finish the edge of a garment
or item. There are three finishing types within the
classification.

first, secures a folded edge to the shell fabric by

stitching, either on the face or back.

-second, stitching is used at the edge or to cover the

raw edges, and may or may not be folded.

-third, applies a binding on a single ply of a seam

allowance to finish raw edges.
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Seams and classification

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Seams and classification

A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part.

Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of

component. One component is limited on one end, and
the other narrow one is limited on both ends.
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Seams and classification

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Seams and classification

Only one piece of component involved in construction

the seam, stitches are applied on its edge/s.

Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of

component with a limited edge on two ends.
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Seams and classification

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Stitch and classification

What is stitch?

British standard 3870, defines stitch as: One units of conformation

resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread intralooping,
Interlooping or passing into or through the fabric or material.

Intralooping: is the passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed

by the same thread.

Interlooping: is the passing of a loop of thread through another loop

formed by a different thread.

What is Stitch type?

A series of recurring stitches of one configuration is defined as a stitch class or
type.
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Stitch and classification

Single Thread Chainstitches Using One Needle Thread and One Blind Looper
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

Basting, or light
101 Class One Thread
construction

Blindstitch for
103 Class One Thread
Hemming

Blindstitch for
104 Class One Thread
Hemming
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Stitch and classification

Single Thread Hand Sewn Stitches Using One Needle Thread

Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

Basting, Tacking or
202 Class One Thread
Repairs

Pick Stitch -
205 Class One Thread
Topstitching
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Stitch and classification

Two or more Thread Lock Stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

301 Class Two Threads Seaming Multiple Plies

Zig-Zag Stitch; a
304 Class Two Thread
stretch lockstitch

306 Class Two Thread Blind Stitch

"Three Step Zig-Zag;

315 Class Two Threads a stretch lockstitch
with more stretch
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Stitch and classification

Multi-Thread Chain Stitches Using One or More Needle Threads and

One or More Looper Threads

Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

Seaming Multiple Plies

401 Class Two Threads
with moderate stretch

Topstitching or
404 Class Two Threads
Seaming with stretch

"Bottom Cover Stitch;

406 Class Three Threads a (greater) stretch
chainstitch
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Stitch and classification

Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

One Needle Overedge

501 Class One Thread stitch for Serging /
"Blanket Stitch"

One Needle Overedge

502 Class Two Thread
stitch for Serging

Overedge stitch for

Serging with
503 Class Two Thread
Crossover on Edge of
Fabric
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Stitch and classification

Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

Overedge stitch for

504 Class Three Thread Serging and Light
Seaming
Mock Safety Stitch for
Seaming with wide
512 Class Four Thread
bite and Greater
Stretch for Knits

Overedge Stitch for

Seaming with wide
c 514 Class Four Thread
bite and Greater
Stretch for Knits
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Stitch and classification

Multi-Thread Over Edge Chain stitches Using Needle Thread(s) and Looper Thread(s)
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

True Safety Stitch for

Seaming with Good
515 Class Four Thread
Stretch for Wovens
and Knits

True Safety Stitch for

Seaming with Good
516 Class Five Thread
Stretch for Wovens
and Knits
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Stitch and classification

Multi-Thread Coverstitches
Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

CoverStitch or
602 Class Four Thread
Seaming Knits

CoverStitch or Butt-
605 Class Five Thread
Seams

Wide CoverStitch or
607 Class Six Thread
Butt-Seams
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Stitch and classification

Single Thread Lockstitch Using One Needle Thread and Rewinding Bobbin

Stitch Diagram Stitch Class Thread Count Typical Uses

701 Class One Thread Lockstitch Tacking

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Stitch, Seams and classification