Bonsai Clubs International - Basic Bonsai Care

Junipers Made Easy
Lee Norman

Bonsai Made Easy Edition

Copyright 2011 Bonsai Made Easy

http://www.bonsai-made-easy.com
bonsai-made-easy.com 1

Contents

Introduction

1. Chapter One The Juniper Tree
1.1 General
1.2 Types of Juniper trees
Needle Species
Scale Species
1.3 Preparing Yourself
Checklist

2. Chapter Two Growing a Juniper
2.1 Growing Junipers From Seed
2.2 Propagation from Seed
2.3 Growing Junipers From Cuttings
Cutting Box
2.4 Basic Care
Light & Location
Soil
Watering
Checklist
Overwintering
Feeding
How Does it Work?
Liquid/Solid
Organic Vs Inorganic
Feeding Schedules
Potting/Repotting
Choosing a Pot
Types of Pot
Repotting
2.5 Juniper Problems
Pests
Disease


3. Chapter Three Styling Your Juniper
3.1 Pruning & Pinching
3.2 Ramification
Taper
Internodes
3.3 Wiring
3.4
Bonsai Tools
3.5 Styles
Formal Upright
Informal Upright
Cascade/Semi-Cascade
Windswept
Slanting
Jin/Shari


Introduction

Welcome to our eBook, Junipers Made Easy!

In this book, you will be given all the knowledge you need to grow and care for
Juniper Bonsai trees, compiled from years of experience and methodology, all tried
and tested.

In starting, can I just present to you a common belief held by Bonsai experts the
world over?

The Juniper tree is wholeheartedly the Vice-President of the Bonsai world, that is,
when standing next to the President, the Pine. The Juniper tree is magnificently easy
to work with and will comply with almost any direction you give it. Try to consider
the Juniper as play-doh or plasticine; completely malleable and easy to control.

From the Junipers needle-like foliage, to its twisting trunk; aesthetically, the Juniper
is an outstanding choice of Bonsai for both beginner and expert. I know I have
spoken to many bonsai beginners, and their point of reference often lands on Mr.
Miyagis Juniper in the famous movie The Karate Kid. It is for this reason that the
specific species in the movie has been dubbed the Karate Kid bonsai.

The Juniper tree evokes a powerful and mystical aesthetic, and for many,
recollections of imagined landscapes of mists and forests under a waxing Japanese
moon. Okay. maybe thats just my imagery, but you get the point? The Juniper
can evoke this powerful neurological impulse simply because it represents the
awesome force of mother nature; the union of elements to create the perfect tree; a
miraculous balance between wood and xylem.

Even without possessing a single drop of Bonsai knowledge, one can observe a
Juniper Bonsai tree and accept its beauty. This is where Bonsai is much like art. If
you have built a Bonsai garden, this will be your gallery, where you proudly display
your art to friends and family, not to mention the aesthetic value it adds to your
home. The asymmetry and symmetry strangely work together to produce a lifelong
artwork, whereby you, the artist, will strive for perfection in creating a perfect
masterpiece.

At the centre of all this, is the Juniper tree.

It really is the perfect Bonsai.


Chapter One
The Juniper Tree


The Juniper tree is most often a crawler, or a spreader. They have many uses outside
of Bonsai, including sacrificial protection for larger shrubs, covering for areas of
garden and an aesthetically pleasing way of padding out your garden.

The Juniper tree is also well known for the fruit it bares; the Juniper berry. The
Juniper berry has been used for hundreds of years by native Americans to treat
medical problems, but its main use is as the primary flavoring in Gin. The word Gin is
actually derived from the Dutch word for Juniper: Genever.

Size

Generally, the size of a Juniper will vary from species to species. For many, the size is
about spread outwards, along the ground, but some Junipers, such as the Chinese
Juniper, can grow between 20-40m in height.

Age

Junipers are generally slow-growing and long-living. Some Junipers have been
recorded as surviving for over three thousand years, such as the Jardine Juniper in
Utah, USA; said to be 3,200 years old! We can thank the Junipers fighting spirit for
its incredible life span. Their ability to tolerate extreme conditions and adaptability
to new environments is certainly reflected in their appearance rugged and rough.

Appearance
The Juniper is a colorful species, sporting a choice of colors that range from the
traditional green to blue-greens, and can include gold and silver highlights. Some
species are aromatic and can fill your garden with wonderful permeated scents.
Their trunks are generally of a dark brown appearance with thin, tapered branches.
The spiky foliage pads are easy to control and add to the Junipers aesthetic appeal.
Many Bonsai artists like to add driftwood to a Junipers setting, this style being
labeled as Driftwood Bonsai, due to the Junipers malleability and suitability in
appearance, but more on this later

Climate

Junipers are naturally sun-loving and always perform best in drier climates. Having
said that they are tolerant to an array of climatic conditions and will grow almost
anywhere. There are specific habitual needs that vary from species to species, but in
general, the same applies for all Junipers, particularly the more common ones we
discuss in this book. A Juniper will thrive on a sunny window ledge inside, outside,
but will dislike extreme heat or cold, but more on that later.


A Dwarf Japanese Garden Juniper (Juniperus procumbens)


Types of Juniper Trees

In total, there are between 50 and 67 species of Juniper trees in existence, spreading
from the Arctic, through Africa and to the Americas.

For all sense and purpose of keeping our information relevant we will touch briefly
on the common species; the species you will have access to and realistically have the
opportunity to work with.

Junipers find themselves divided into two distinct categories; Needle Junipers and
Scale-like Junipers (in reference to foliage).

Needle Junipers

Common Juniper (Juniperus communis) *one of the most popular
The common Juniper is one of the most common species of Juniper and is
widely considered as the most hardy of all. It survives in a multitude of
settings and is both drought and shade tolerant, growing in all climates. The
common Juniper will perform on window ledges if gardens are hard to come
by.

Foemina Juniper (Juniperus chinesis)
The foemina is hardy, even when juvenile. Performs well in many climates.
The foemina is easily recognizable from observing its finer needles (among
the finest of all needle junipers).

Japanese Garden Juniper (Juniperus procumbens)
Native to Japan and Korea. Is an invasive shrub that grows fairly quickly. Will
perform well in warmer climates encountering humidity. Also comes as a
Dwarf Garden Juniper that generally is easier to keep small.

Hornibrook Juniper (Juniperus commnis Hornibrookii)
A ground hugging shrub that produces a shimmering effect in Spring and
Summer, caused by its unique silvery foliage. Grows best in dry conditions
with lots of sunlight.

Needle Juniper (Juniperus rigida)
Slightly more involved care-wise, the Needle Juniper presents a challenge to
the more adventurous beginner. The Needle can be grown in a variety of
climates, just ensure it avoids extreme temperatures.

Scale-like Junipers

Chinese Juniper (Juniperus chinesis) *one of the most popular
Also named the Hollywood Juniper, this species is native to Eastern Asia and
is both common and easy to grow. The Chinese has a wide variety of colors
and appearances, making it excellent to Bonsai. The Chinese can grow in a
variety of climates, provided extreme weather (heat and cold) is not a
feature. This species is also treelike and will assume upright styles readily.

California Juniper (Juniperus californica) *one of the most popular
The California naturally inhabits dry areas with lots of sunlight. The California
is pretty and aromatic and is simple in caring for.

Sargents Juniper (Juniperus sargentii)
The Sargent is perhaps the least needy of all Junipers. It grows quickly in a
variety of climates and will spread faster than many other species. A fantastic
species for beginners.

San Jose Juniper (Juniperus chinesis San Jose)
The San Jose is versatile and grows quickly. The San Jose sports stiff branches
and is a fantastic candidate for cascading styles. Its jade green colour is
striking and looks fantastic matched with the right pot.

Dahurian Juniper (Juniperus davurica)
The Dahurian is much like any other Juniper; a creeper that is drought
tolerant, requiring as much sunlight as you can give it. It will however
perform well in shady areas, and is particularly disease tolerant.

Needle-like(leaf) Juniper Scale-like(leaf) Juniper


Preparing Yourself

To truly harness the beauty and magnificence of a Juniper Bonsai, you will need to
prepare yourself both in theory and practice. A large part of the preparatory process
is creating a checklist. A checklist will ensure you have all bases covered, and start
the process with a goal and aim in mind. It is fine to start a Bonsai and simply wing
it, but to truly get the most out of your Juniper, planning is always a sure-fire way to
ensure success!

Here is your checklist:

1 Plan your natural Bonsai
You should aim to have a natural looking Bonsai. It should mimic natural images of
trees in nature, and should be free from obvious signs of styling such as wire marks
or chopped branches or trunk. Your Bonsai needs to be three dimensional, and
should possess interesting curves or directional changes. It should have many
different viewing angles, and be appreciated as a work of art.
2- Make the best of your Bonsai's unique features
Each bonsai is unique, and it is important to study its natural features, and decide on
methods of styling. This is when you observe natural bends, twists, and angles and
decide on which of these you will build on.
3 Establish the front and back of your Bonsai
Observe the trunk, root, and major branches from all angles and settle on the front
of your Bonsai. Mark the front, and take a picture for your personal records. It is not
necessary to formulate your design by accepting a forward pointing crown as the
front to your Bonsai. This can limit your design options.
Your Bonsai may have two potential fronts. Mark both, take photos, and work your
design to incorporate both. It will become obvious in time, which will be the main
front to your Bonsai.
4 Understand your Bonsai's strengths and weaknesses
Most trees grow stronger at the top then the bottom, however, some are basally
dominant. It is important to study the species of tree you are using for your bonsai,
and to establish if it has any natural growth imbalance. A natural growth imbalance
will affect your natural design, as dominant areas of growth may need to be thinned
down and shortened in order to rejuvenate weaker areas. It may be necessary to
eliminate weak branches from your design, or to accept disappointment if they fail
to respond to training.

5 - Think 3D, without the silly glasses
It is important to design a Bonsai that will be attractive from all angles. You should
aim for lots of front to back movement and depth. Think ahead of time, and imagine
how your design will look from other viewing angles. Ask yourself before removing a
branch, if reshaping or moving a branch would better help achieve a well-rounded
design.
6 Think like Da Vinci, realize your masterpieces potential
Look for a strong central line, but be sure not to overlook other areas of interest. Do
not over simplify your design, and do not be a slave to formula. The success of your
Bonsai can be likened to the success of a painting or sculpture, and will be achieved
through inspiration and stimulation. It's true success lies in the mental reactions of
its viewers, and will be achieved with the stimulation of the eye. You therefore want
the eye to make as many movements as possible. The important thing to remember
is that you grow Bonsai tree lines. You change its appearance like you would a
painting. You are in charge!
7 - Draw a before image of your Bonsai
Sketch out the current shape of your tree and the proposed front. I would also
encourage you to take photos. It is incredibly helpful to see where you came from on
such a brilliant journey. The old saying, a picture speaks a thousand words finds
many truths in the life of your Bonsai.
8 - Draw a proposed image of your Bonsai
Apply an achievable realistic image over the top of your current image, keeping the
core parts of the tree that will remain. This may take several attempts as you learn
what makes a good design, and a satisfying image. Draw it or render it on a
computer work to your strengths. If you prefer drawing, draw. If youre a
photoshop genius, use a computer!
9 - Acknowledge your Bonsai's faults
Make a list of your Bonsai's faults. It may be a branch or even the pot.
Acknowledging the negatives will allow you to move away from a poor design to a
better one. Making such a list will also allow you to see your Bonsai's strengths, and
what is right in your design. It will allow you to reshape the design and path of your
Bonsai, and will help you make decisions in achieving a wonderful design.
10 - Address each negative and seek to resolve
Try not to be overwhelmed by your negative list, seek to address each negative and
resolve it. Remember what you are trying to achieve, and keep your Bonsai looking
natural!


Obviously a Bonsai checklist will not work for everyone, as time is a key factor in
everyones life. However we do urge you to have a go at one if at all possible!
You may have noted we touched on viewing angles and the interaction of the human
eye with your Juniper. In the Bonsai world, your tree will be constructed of lines,
referring to the lines your tree draws with its branches. Your eye will follow these
lines and assess its symmetry.
To best achieve symmetry and good lines you will need to understand several key
factors:
Initial Point of Focus
Your Bonsai will have an initial point of focus, preferably near the centre of the tree.
This may be an interesting trunk or trunk basal flare.
One Strong Line
The eye should be led along one strong line. This may be a Long Branch or trunk, or
cascading trunk. The human eyes will automatically follow lines first, so why not
make your strong line something fantastic?
Several smaller lines or shapes
Other lines, such as branches, should then draw interest. These lines should be
inviting the eye to study more interesting detail such as, foliage, foliage pads, bends,
and angles.
Additional detail and textures
Interesting shapes, textures, colors, small leaves or needles add extra stimulation for
the eye.
Diagonal Lines
If you can angle your trunk or branches, this will add appeal and interest to your
Bonsai. Horizontal and vertical lines are restful to the human eye, where as diagonal
lines will stimulate the eye.
Curved lines
These are attractive to the eye, and conjure feelings of speed.
Repetition of Lines
The human eye searches for repeating shapes, such as foliage pads or strong angular
branches or bends. When these repeating shapes are placed a good distance apart,
the eye will then be able to examine the finer details between each repetition. As
your Bonsai grows, you will begin to see where they should go.

Perspective
Your Bonsai should look like you have peered through a set of binoculars the wrong
way. It is also important to consider designing your Bonsai as if you were looking at it
through a fish eye lens. All the top branches radiate upwards, horizontally in the
middle and downward at the bottom,
Symmetry

Symmetry should only be attempted if a precise symmetrical design can be achieved.
The trunk must be perfectly upright, and the branch structure must be arranged
precisely.

A simple Bonsai sketch (with a little bit of flavour)

Chapter 2
Growing a Juniper


Juniper Basics

Growing Junipers from seed
Perhaps the ultimate way to live the Bonsai experience is to grow a tree from
scratch. Growing a tree from scratch allows complete freedom, experimentation and
brings great reward.
Growing from seed is inexpensive, and it is much easier to acquire specific plants as
seeds rather than as established trees. Trees grown from seed are unique, individual
and will reflect the tastes and personality of their owner.
Growing from seed provides the artist with a satisfying journey of learning, and is
one of the most organic ways to watch your ideas come to life, but also requires
much more care and attention than pre-established Bonsai.
Whilst growing from seed is the ultimate in Bonsai artistry, there are many trees that
cannot be grown for a number of reasons. Sometimes a particular trees seeds may
be hard to obtain or hard to grow in a specific climate, or the artist has not obtained
seeds from a choice tree that they want to replicate.
Also, if an artist wishes only to produce a small number of specific Bonsai,

propagation by cuttings is a quick and fairly easy method in which to achieve this.
The majority of Bonsai can be grown this way, including ones best grown from seed.
The most important thing to consider when growing from scratch is the time factor.
It will literally take YEARS to grow: some trees are nurtured by people for more than
30 years!!!!!!!!
This may suit a Bonsai enthusiast who cares for their tree like a child, but for some,
this is unrealistic. We would honestly point any bonsai enthusiast towards working
with an established Juniper, or at least growing one from cuttings.
If you dont have a Juniper in which to take a cutting from, it is always advisable to
buy one from a Bonsai nursery that you like the look of, and take a cutting. They
range in price from US$50-$200 for young but established trees. Obviously the
cheaper the tree, the younger it is, as a general guide.
Propagation from seed
Growing a Juniper from seed is no different to growing any plant or tree from seed.
It is a very simple process that will require you to know only a few basic horticultural
rules.
Nature is the best horticulturist! Every Autumn, when leaves drop their leaves and
seeds, the seeds will lay dormant in the soil throughout Winter. When Spring hits,

the dropped seeds will germinate, usually around the time new buds appear on
plants. Basically this is the time you will need to plant your Juniper seeds! You will
need to imitate nature. Your soil mix should be a basic mix, but with compost
surrounding the seed.
You can also plant seeds in pots at the end of Autumn, and leave the pot outside,
allowing nature to take its course. The seed will undergo wintering and the natural
Spring cycle will break its dormancy (stratification).
Usually, you should see roots begin to shoot anywhere from 2-4 weeks. You can
leave the new shoot in its pot, or transplant into a new home with a bonsai soil mix
towards the end of spring. Just make sure you transplant some of the soil with the
tree.
It is possible to have seeds germinate out of season by using the process of forced
stratification (breaking a trees dormancy at will). This requires soaking seeds for 4
hours in water, leaving them in a damp bag for a few days and then placing them in
a refrigerator. This tricks the seeds into thinking they are in Winter. You gradually,
over a 4 week period move the seeds up each shelf in your refrigerator, and then
back down to the bottom. This imitates the natural cycle of cold, colder, freezing,
warming up, warmer. This whole process usually takes around 8 weeks. We would
advise you though, to simply plant seeds in Autumn or Spring. It is much easier and
more effective.
Growing Junipers from cuttings
The word cutting refers to a small piece of tree carefully cut from a specific spot,
used almost like a seed to cultivate a new tree.
There are 3 categories of cuttings:
Softwood
Semi-Hardwood
Hardwood
Softwood cuttings are taken from young, new growth.
Semi-Hardwood is the most common cutting type. This type of cutting is generally
taken from newer growth, but older than brand new growth with harder and firmer
wood.
Hardwood cuttings are taken from growth that has survived a whole growing season.
Generally the cuttings are hard and firm.
When taking cuttings from a Juniper, there are some basic points to consider.
Use clean, well drained rooting mediums

The application of hormones (if they are absent in the medium)

A Constant supply of moisture
Good light
Bottom heat, if possible.
In starting, it is of high importance to take strong and healthy cuttings from
Bonsai that are in peak physical form; high in health and vigour.
Cuttings should be taken from new growth, that is; areas of the tree that are
young and have not become hard and old.

TIP!
If a branch is young and healthy, it should snap between the thumb and forefingers
like a fresh green bean. If it bends on itself then it is old and soft, and will most likely
not root.
Lets have a look how to make a cutting box.
How to make a cutting box
Get/Make a 5 inch deep box (depth is important, not width and length
smaller width and length will be cheaper on materials)
Fill the box 1 to 2 inches deep with gravel or coal ashes
Cover gravel or ashes with moss or a layer of old bag
Fill to the 5 inches with sand or, preferably: perlite
Aim to have your cutting around 2 to 4 inches long, The cutting should be taken on a
45 degree angle; not cut in a straight line.
When you plant the cutting in a box, a tapered stem will allow it to be pushed into
the soil without pressuring the stem. Less surface area means less force needed!
Take the cutting from an eye or joint. The leaves around (usually lower leaves)
should be cleanly taken off and the large remaining ones shortened back. This will
prevent your tree becoming sad and wilted.
Take your cutting and ensure to place it as quickly as possible into their box. If it is
not possible to plant them soon after removal, ensure to keep them damp and out
of the sun.
Keep your box in a room that is around 55 degrees Fahrenheit and ensure that
during the day, to shade the Bonsai if in direct sunlight. At night time, when inside, a
heating pad will assist the growth process, adding up to 15 degrees Fahrenheit. In
warmer climates, if warm at night, keep the tree damp to ensure freshness and
health.

Remember, all your hard work will be lost if you fail to water. As a rule -NEVER LET
THE SAND IN THE BOX DRY OUT!
After around 2 weeks, give or take, your cutting should begin to shoot roots. When
the roots form, remove from the box and pot them before the roots begin to grow
longer than half an inch.
Here is a quick checklist to grow a Juniper from a cutting:
Firstly you must ensure the cutting you take is from a healthy, vigorous tree
Take the cutting from areas of new growth portions of shoots that are
younger and have not become old and hard
To test the stem, bend it between your fingers if it bends and doubles over
on itself then the stem is old and unhealthy. If it snaps then this would
usually denote vigour and youth
The cutting should be taken from a joint or eye
The cutting should be between 2 and 4 inches long and cut on an angle for
ease of insertion into potted soil
Get a 5 inch deep box (depth is important, not width and length smaller
width and length will be cheaper on materials)
Fill the box 1 to 2 inches deep with gravel or coal ashes.
Cover gravel or ashes with moss or a layer of old bag
Fill to the 5 inches with sand or, preferably perlite
Level the top off and soak thoroughly
Wait 1-1 hours
Pot the cutting to about its length (so you can only see half of it)
Wet the sand and compact around the cutting
The cutting will thrive in warmer conditions and particularly bottom heat
(you can purchase a heat mat from gardening stores). Shade the box from
direct sunlight with newspaper to allow heat through
From what we have observed, Junipers are among the best species to take cuttings
from. They are hardy and will take quite easily.

Basic Care

Light & Location
The Juniper is naturally a sun-craving tree. You will achieve the best results by
placing your Juniper in a sunny area outdoors (in your garden or on your balcony
etc), but it is possible to achieve success indoors (if you live in an apartment),
provided the Juniper resides on a window ledge that receives a great deal of direct
sunlight. If you live in London and leave a Juniper in a cold, dark corner of your flat
you can expect your tree to perish. It is true that they are not indoor trees, but
provided they have adequate sunlight through a window, they will grow; obviously
not to the same standard as an outdoor, but herein lies the trade-off of owning a

Bonsai in a confined environment. Sacrifices must be made if you want to grow a

majestic and authentic Bonsai.
A running theme you may notice throughout this book, and in any of our
information, is to avoid extremes. Whilst Junipers love sunlight, they will not react
well to extreme sunshine, or extreme cold/snow. If you live in a hot or arid climate
and are not always at home to move your tree out of direct sunlight, find a semi-
shady spot in your garden and ensure that location will get a mix of sunlight and
shade, preferably sun throughout the morning and shade in the afternoon.
To some this may be obvious, to others not so. Sun will dry your Junipers soil out
quickly. Generally, your Juniper will reside in a small pot, reducing the potential
moisture retention that the tree would experience in the wild. In some conditions,
the soil will dry out in a few hours, leaving your Juniper to suffer in the afternoon.
Juniper Soil

Depending on your orientation, whether you are a beginner or expert, you will need
to decide how involved you want to be in all aspects of your trees development. In
regard to soil, this is true, particularly when deciding on the soil composition you
desire for your tree. The most frequent question that I have been asked is:

Cant I just use common soil like in my garden?

The answer here is yes! It is completely possible to use common soil, provided it has
components mixed in that increase water drainage. However, making your own soil
mixes can be fun, and will undoubtedly increase you level of bonsai mastery!

The best recipe we feel will give any Juniper the best chance of success comprises a
third sand, a third organic matter (bark or humus works well) and a third clay
granules. There are considerations though

If your tree is in its youth, and you want to accelerate growth and ramification, you
should try using thicker soil granules, and the reverse if your tree is established and
you want to maintain shape. You must also consider the trees environment. If your
Juniper resides in a rainy climate, drainage will become more of an issue, and you
will need to use a greater proportion of sand in your mix. Remember that when
filling a pot with soil, to sift thoroughly to ensure there is no build up of dust, which
will prevent effective drainage.

As a general guide, aim to keep the size of your granules around 3mm; no less than
2mm, and no larger than 4mm.

If you think this may be too hard, there are generally bonsai mixes for sale online, or
even at your local nurseries. If youre lucky enough to have bonsai nursery nearby,
you should be able to enlist their help!


Watering
When it comes to watering your Juniper, there are 2 basic rules:

1. Allow the soil to dry between waterings, but never allow the soil to fully dry out.
2. Water thoroughly, allowing the soil to be soaked through.

When watering your Juniper, it is best to use a watering can, spray bottle or garden
hose with a fine spray or mist attachment. Junipers love to be misted as much as
they like their soil soaked. An effective watering can for Juniper watering is one with
multiple fine holes, as opposed to fewer larger holes.

There are numerous ways to effectively water Bonsai, but in regards to the Juniper, I
have found great success with the following tips.

When you water your tree, water in a top-down method with a watering can or
hose attachment, soaking the foliage, down through the soil. This helps the tree
absorb moisture through the foliage and through the soil, and washes away
potential pests. There is an exception to this though; never water the foliage in
direct sunlight. Leaves hate being watered in the sun and will burn, shrivel and die!

Here is a quick and easy step by step process for watering your Juniper:

1. Top water for 2 seconds
2. Stop for 4 seconds
3. Top water for 2 seconds
4. Stop for 10 seconds
5. Repeat these steps 4-5 times

If you are efficiently watering your Juniper, you should be able to see water running
out the drainage holes underneath the pot, provided water is draining effectively
through the soil layers. A great tip to test the moisture content in the soil is to dip
your finger into the soil and push in to your knuckle. If the soil is dry underneath the
surface, the soil is effectively dry. Never trust the surface of the soil; it can be
deceiving!

If water is not draining properly, or too fast, this means there is either a problem
with your soil, or with the root system of your Juniper.
Water will not drain effectively through compacted soil. Soil compaction occurs with
older soils, or with soils that are not well-draining. You will notice water pooling on
the surface of the soil, hindering absorption. If you encounter this, you will need to
repot your Juniper using a better draining soil mix.

If water is pouring through your pot quickly, and you are suspicious that the soil is
not absorbing it, this probably means your root system is messy and entangled.
When root systems begin to overtake the pot, your tree is diagnosed as being
rootbound, leaving vacant spaces on the edges of its pot; water will run straight

down them. This will also require a repot, and removal of excess roots.

Watering, as simple as it sounds, is an art unto itself, and will take practice to
master. Every tree is different, and you will learn your trees sweet spots. You will
develop your own schedule (which needs to remain flexible throughout the seasons
and to adapt around the trees condition), and become a watering master!

Follow this simple Bonsai watering checklist to ensure your Juniper is receiving the
care it needs:
When watering Junipers during summer, water them at least once a day. In hotter
conditions a Junipers foliage will die very quickly, particularly if the soil becomes dry.

Allow the soil to dry out SLIGHTLY between waterings. This prevents soil runoff, allowing
the Bonsai to absorb maximum amounts.

Keep the root ball damp, - not saturated or dry.

In normal weather, watering once a day (in the morning for example) should suffice.
Ideally, morning and night is best.

Do not water in direct, afternoon sun. If you absolutely have to, ensure you only water the
soil. Leaves do not like being watered in sunlight.

Do not water continually throughout the day.

Never rely on rain to do the job. It is never enough! On this note, if downpours are forecast,
shelter your Juniper to avoid waterlogging.

Any type of water is fine, provided there are no chemicals in the container you are using!

No fierce hose connectors

Automated irrigation systems are good, although hand watering still wins out,
environmentally and in avoiding mechanical problems.

Water in a 10 second spurt. Leave for a few minutes and then repeat twice more.

Let the water fall over the whole tree (except if in direct sunlight).

Ensure the water is soaking into the soil.

Don't water flowers in bloom - soil only.

Check the drainage holes on the bottom of the pot to ensure water is draining through.

Don't allow the Bonsai to sit in water for extended periods of time.

Enlist the help of friends and neighbors if you go away. Daily watering is always best!


As a rule of thumb it is quite easy to get into the habit of watering Bonsai trees in
the morning. This will prevent the soil from drying out through the day.

Overwintering

It should be said that almost all species of tree requires winter, as a part of its
natural life cycle. As daylight decreases, trees will react accordingly, increasing their
resistance to the coming elements. Trees will begin to drop leaves (deciduous ones
anyway) and trees basically go into a state of dormancy. They drop their leaves to
ensure they retain as much water as possible. Quite amazing really!

Ok, so, the most important point is to respect your tree's need for winter dormancy.
Your tree will have it's own internal clock and by bringing your tree inside for
protection over winter, you will actually cause your tree's eventual demise! Think of
it like a human going without sleep for a week..... Eventually you'll become quite
sick.

Your tree's survival throughout winter is referred to as overwintering.

Avoid extremes for extended periods of time, such as extended periods of sub-zero
temperatures. Your Juniper will be able to tolerate snow, and will in fact react well
to snow (trees absorb moisture from snow) but only in short periods. If the
temperatures drop below zero for more than 48 hours, protect your tree by moving
it into a greenhouse or shed, where the temperature will be a few degrees warmer;
but only until temperatures rise a few degrees. Never allow your bonsai to heat up
during winter - this could snap your tree out of dormancy, and we don't want that!
Your Juniper will require watering throughout the Winter months, but its needs will
be much lower in its dormant state. Water every 1-2 days, unless temperatures are
freezing. You dont want the soil to ice over from your watering!


Feeding

Your bonsai will need to be fed to promote growth and to remain strong and
vigorous. Without food, much like us humans, your bonsai will become weak and will
lack nutrients it requires to fight disease and infection throughout winter.

As a general rule-of-thumb, you want your Juniper to grow as quickly as possible.
The sooner it fills out and ramification is observed, the closer you will be to achieving
that classic bonsai look. Many beginners tend to provide their trees with less than
satisfactory amounts of food, mainly due to the small pots and their perception the
tree has had enough. This will inhibit your bonsai's growth and disallow maturity,
wasting your time and adding years of torment to the process!
You can afford to be liberal, but, remember, overfeeding can be deadly! If you
hyperfeed (excessive feeding) your bonsai with liquid or solid bonsai plant food, you
will promote plasmolysis - the opposite of osmosis. Instead of normal osmosis,
where water travels from the soil to the tree, water will travel from the roots to the
soil. You dont want that!
In order for osmosis to occur, there needs to be a higher concentration of salts and
minerals in the roots than the soil; water will seek out higher concentrations.
Hyperfeeding will increase salt and mineral levels in the soil, often above the levels
in the roots, increasing plasmolysis and water loss in the tree.
You will often know when your tree is going through plasmolysis as the leaves will
become dull in colour, limp and will eventually begin dying. If you suspect that you
have overfed your tree, immerse the entire pot in water, up to the trunk overnight
to allow the fertiliser to become eradicated.
The other facet of overfeeding to watch out for is unruly growth. The more food, the
more growth! Your tree will become unruly and out of control very quickly, and if
the branches thicken too much they will become less malleable for shaping, so stay
on top of it! As we said above, this is great to increase ramification and trunk size,
but if you leave it for too long, youll have problems on your hands!
Liquid or Solid?
Both types are effective, but most bonsai artists like to use a combination of both.
Generally, solid fertilizers are sold in pellet, granule or powder form, usually
consisting of manure. Liquid fertilizers are exactly that, liquid concentrate in need of
dilution, usually consisting of broken down seaweed, fish and other organic
elements.
We definitely recommend a combination as a part of your feeding schedule, but

more on that later!

How does it work?
All plants require three elements from the periodic table (remember back in
chemistry at school? No? Neither do we.
The three letters you should familiarize yourself with, are N, P & K. Any guesses what
they stand for?
N Nitrogen
P Phosphorous
K Potassium
These three elements are usually taken from soils in the wild, but, your Juniper will
not be in the wild. Generally, when you look on the back of a fertilizer container, you
will notice a few sequenced numbers that will look like 8-8-8. This is the N-P-K
number.
But what does this mean, you ask?
Observe this reference guide for feeding your Juniper
Fertilizers high in N (Nitrogen) are rated 8 or higher
High N fertilizers should be used only in Spring. Always check to see if your tree can
handle a high N feed
Late-summer fertilizer have a low N content and a higher P and K rating and will
look like this: 4-8-8
As a rule, high N = leaf growth and colour, low N, high P & K = root and bud growth
for the next year

Lets look at some bonsai plant food basic do's and don'ts!

DO
Use food (fertiliser) at the start of Spring through autumn
Use small doses at frequent intervals, rather than high doses and longer intervals
Feed older trees less than younger trees. In bonsai, youth describes trees less than 10 years
old
Keep an eye on your tree for signs of overfeeding
DON'T
Feed deciduous trees until their leaves become harder. Feeding when they are weaker will
burn them
Use fertiliser during Winter
Feed your bonsai before, during or straight after flowering. A month either side is best
Feed freshly repotted bonsai until they begin growing strongly again. Allow 8 weeks
Feed a sick tree. Fertilising will make it worse. As you can probably tell, the most important
point to remember is.......... do not overfeed!

Organic and Inorganic Feeds
Organic bonsai tree fertilizer contains organic matter such as fish meal or animal
manure. A popular one with Japanese artists is rapeseed fertilizer
Inorganic fertilizer is chemically constructed but performs the same task. The main
difference is the rate of release (nutrients), which is slower and more efficient in
organic fertilizer. Really though, both will achieve great results, the difference is only
identifiable by specialists and veterans!
The difference between fertilizers is quite small. Yes, you could spend hours
constructing the perfect chemical compound that will be perfect for your tree. Yes it
would probably impress your bonsai brethren, but in our opinion, its probably a
waste of time. The time spent wondering should be put into tree care, including
pruning, shaping and basic care!
Ultimately, we suggest using Osmocote throughout Spring. You can achieve great
results from Osmocote and we have never heard of any problems with it. The
popular school of thought is that a fertilizer with a 20-20-20 rating is fine for all
Bonsai, but during Spring only! Use a feed with a lower N rating in Summer!

Feeding Schedules

Without getting too technical and planning a ridiculous schedule, your best bet at
ensuring you are giving your tree the best chance at success, is to feed at the start of
the growing season, Spring, no matter your climate. You can feed all the way
through until Summers end. Remember though, try not to fertilise on hot days!
Nitrogen makes plants thirsty, as does the sun..

The amount that you feed your Juniper will vary according to the type of fertilizer
you have chosen. All standard fertilizers will have a guide on the container or bag as
to prescribed doses. Just simply follow the instructions!

So this brings us to perhaps the most controversial question of all:

How often should I fertilise?

Again, there is no specific rule, but we have achieved great results by using the
following schedule:

Spring
4-6 pellets of high N Inorganic solid feed every 3 weeks (Osmocote)
1 dose of liquid fertilizer (MiracleGro is a good one) weekly

Summer
Cease use of High N solid pellets
Use liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks (depending on how hot your climate is
the hotter it is, the less you would fertilise, i.e every 3-4 weeks)
Decrease the frequency towards the start of Autumn, cease all fertilization
during the first month of Autumn

This is a simple, effective way of feeding your Juniper, without getting caught up in
fine details. There are a plethora of schedules floating around, but we like to keep
things simple. If your tree is getting enough food, and not too much, it will flourish!

Now go and feed your Juniper!


Potting

Contrary to what you may have heard, the best time to pot a Juniper bonsai, is in
Spring, generally around the time buds begin to appear. If your tree is young, i.e less
than 15 years, you should probably aim at repotting it every 2 years or so. Older,
more established trees require a repot around every 4-5 years.
When you think its time for your Juniper to upgrade to a new home, or if you think
its roots are in need of a trim, there are a few considerations you need to make.
What kind of pot should it be transferred to? What do I Do with the roots?
Read on
Choosing your Junipers pot
In the world of bonsai, the pot is just as important as the tree itself. Definitively, the
word itself, bonsai, means tree in a pot, so it comes as no surprise that the pot itself
comprises 50% of the aesthetic appeal.
The very process of dwarfing a tree relies on the constraint of it's roots in a pot. This
restrains the tree's growth, leaving the tree to retain a small, dwarfed size.
Before choosing a pot in which to house your bonsai, remember, the human eye is
the best judge, but will always be your biggest critic!
First and foremost, choose your pot carefully! If your aesthetic senses are not fully
developed, which is fine - this can take ages, try and locate an antique Chinese or
Japanese bonsai pot...... They are aesthetically pleasing and will suit many bonsai
specimens.
Rectangular Pot
Mainly for powerful, thick and heavier trees with thick trunks and branches
Round Pot
Fragile and thinner looking trees - literati
Oval Pot
For forest plantings
Square Pot
For Literati styles

Hexagonal & Octagonal
For Literati styles with symmetry
Irregular
For windswept and driftwood styles
Texture & Glaze
As a rough guide you should plant Junipers in an unglazed brown or dark-coloured

bonsai pots. You will mostly find deciduous trees in glazed pots. Also, the texture of
the pot will come into play, and again, as a rough guide, rough textured and older
antique pots are great for older trees, whist smooth and more modern pots are
great for younger, colourful trees.
Lip Shape & Feet
The lips of bonsai pots are fairly important for your tree's aesthetic appeal. Lips vary
from wide, narrow, outward and inward pointing, hard or soft in appearance, curved
to straight. All lip shapes will impact the vibe of your tree so choose carefully! We
like to use outward pointing lips for powerful looking trees, and straight for smaller
more intricate trees like the Juniper.
Pot & Style Matching Guide!
Formal Upright
Medium/deep rectangular or oval. Varies in accordance with trunk thickness
Informal Upright & Coiled
Medium/deep rectangular, oval or round. Varies in accordance with trunk

size
Slanting
Medium depth rectangular or oval
Windswept
Medium depth rectangular, rough-textured and unglazed
Deep square, hexagonal or octagonal

Literati
Medium depth circular, inward pointing lip, square, hexagonal, unglazed
Broom
Medium/shallow oval or round
Weeping
Medium-depth square, hexagonal, round or octagonal
Root Over Rock
Medium/deep rectangular, oval or round
Split-trunk & Driftwood
Medium/deep rectangular or modern, unglazed
Multiple Trunks
See Medium/deep rectangular, round or oval. Varies in accordance with

trunk size
Forest
Shallow oval or stone slab
Landscape

Shallow oval, rectangular or stone slab, unglazed


Repotting

Here is a quick guide on performing a successful repot:
Allow the soil to dry completely, without leaving it long enough that your Juniper will
dehydrate
Remove the tree from its pot and get rid of the top layer of soil. Use a wooden
implement and be careful to not harm the surface roots
Remove the soil from the bottom of the rootball by hand. Dont shake the tree to
dislodge soil, always use a stick or your fingers
Comb the roots with a stick and open up the rootball. This will naturally dislodge
more soil
Many people will suggest that if the remaining soil is good, leave it be. We feel it is
best to give your Juniper a fresh bed to sleep in, with new sheets and pillows!
Replace all soil
Remove excess roots. You will be able to tell which roots are too long by their length
and strong appearance. Removing roots that are rocketing downwards is a great
way to flatten out your rootball, and prevent an entangled mess, strangulating the
tree
Use a pruning tool
Select a pot
Cover drainage holes with mesh and secure them with thin wire to the base of the
pot. Thread wire through to the inside of the pot for use in anchoring the tree. This
should also be anchored externally on the bottom of the pot
Pour in a layer of bottom soil, generally using the larger of the soil particles
Build up a mound where you want the tree to sit
Place the Juniper on the mound and fuse the roots with soil by twisting it a few times
Anchor the tree with the wire from the base of the pot
Fill around the tree, ensuring all roots are covered
Shake the pot as you fill it to settle the soil, adding water as you go
When you think the pot is full and devoid of air pockets, water and saturate the soil
thoroughly, watching for drainage as it pours out the holes
Use a rooting liquid, such as Seasol on the surface of the soil to promote rooting.
Apply this every 3 days after the repot for a fortnight, generally before watering.
Place your newly potted tree in an area that is out of full sunlight for around 2
weeks. This will give your Juniper time to recover!
Like with any Juniper, water twice daily and never let the soil dry out. This is much
more important for a freshly potted tree.

Juniper Problems

Whilst the Juniper is a hardy and strong tree, there are things you should be aware
of to ensure your tree stays exactly that; strong and healthy.

Like any other tree, the Juniper is susceptible to pests and disease and there are
ways to prevent and cure illness and problems.

Pests

As you would already know, one of the keys to good bonsai health is adequate care.
Lets have a look at some key points:
Use good sterile soil when mixing composts.

Prevent soil waterlogging and compaction, particularly in Winter.
Ensure balanced pH levels and soil health, and correct if ill health and pH
imbalance is apparent. This includes testing the water that you give the
Bonsai is pH neutral. A little either side will be ok, but generally too acidic or
alkaline will hurt your Bonsai.
Avoid large variations in temperature, particularly if there is a risk of cold
damage or heat stress. Watch for cool changes
Avoid windy conditions, direct sunlight in large amounts (days on end in the
full sun with minimal watering), still, damp air and excessive shade.
A little humus in the soil mixture will naturally deter pests and disease
Remove decaying leaf litter, branches and debris to avoid bacterial growth
and fungal infection
Ensure good soil drainage
Clean and protect wounds on the trees branches and trunk. Fungal infections
start in wounds and can be passed onto other trees much like a flu among
humans. Seal all wounds, particularly if the Bonsai is close to other trees
Poor plant health will ultimately lead to death, and it is in times of weakness that
pests are apparent just like the old adage if it doesnt rain it pours. Pests will also
be one of the main factors contributing to poor plant health, and its helpful to know
what kind of pest your Juniper is battling!
The signs of poor plant health are easy to spot, and it will usually be the colour and
quality of the foliage that will be the first tell tale sign of an infection. Dropping of
needles and leaves and/or discolouration of foliage or your plant becoming limp are
signs that something is wrong.

Insects/Bacteria

Red Spider Mites

Usually found in warm conditions, and more prominent with indoor varieties. The
red spider mite is microscopic and barely visible with a microscope. They live in
colonies on the undersides of leaves, and often make fine white cobwebs in the
joints between branches. Your local garden store should stock an insecticide such as
Malathion to assist you with eradicating the mites.

Aphids
Or greenfly/blackfly, prefer the new soft shoots and leaves as their place of
residence. An insecticide containing bifenthrin would be more suited to the
eradication of this pest, as Malathion may blacken young leaves.
Root Aphids
White in appearance and appearing on roots. If infection has occurred, soak the
roots in insecticide or apply spray.
Woolly Aphids
Covered in a white woolly wax, this pest executes most damage on the bark of
deciduous trees. Best destroyed by squashing them with a cloth, or alternatively you
can use a systemic insecticide. Unfortunately their woolly covering shields them
from ordinary insecticides.
Adelgids
Mainly found on pines, larch and spruce, these pests are sap sucking insects and
are very destructive.
Vine Weevil
Usually found in Europe and are commonly found on Junipers. The beetle lays its
eggs in the soil, and the larvae generate the most damage as they eat away the
plants roots. Check your local garden store for chemicals such as permethrin, which
can control larvae.
Important to note - this must be used at the critical time in late summer when the
eggs hatch.
White Fly
Common in warm humid conditions. and can be easily spotted as they fly around
when disturbed. The signature sign that your bonsai is infected, is the yellow spots

on leaves. Ordinary insecticide should do the trick.
More Plant Predators:
There are plenty of well known Insects and Bugs that will hinder your caring for
Bonsai plants by stripping off leaves and shoots, or damaging bark and branches.
Such as:
Caterpillars
Grasshoppers
Ants
Slugs
Snails
Wasps
Spiders
Grubs
Worms
Ladybugs
Praying mantis
Rodents can also damage your Bonsai by digging up soil in pots and leaving waste.
Wire netting or fencing may be required.
It is important to the health of your bonsai that you control plant predators by
destroying them psychically, or by spraying with insecticide.


Disease

In addition to pests, Junipers are prone to general sickness and disease, the same as
any tree/plant.

Here are some to look out for:

Root Rot

Is a fungal disease, mainly associated with Junipers and pine. Root Rot is a serious
disease, and once a plant is infected, there is very little that can be done.
To avoid root rot, ensure good soil drainage and root health is observed.

Rust and Black Spot
This disease can be identified as the tree's leaves will appear yellow and drop
prematurely during mid-summer. A visit to your local garden store should fix your
problem, in combination with the removal of all dropped leaves to prevent the
disease from spreading.
Damping
A fungal disease that affects seedlings and is commonly mistaken for root-rot.
Seedlings will die suddenly for no apparent reason. The best method for prevention
is a Bordeux mixture, avoid over watering, maintain good ventilation, soil drainage,
and good hygiene.
Galls
This disease can be described as abnormal outgrowths on plant tissues and can be
caused by fungi, bacteria and parasites. If you discover these abnormal outgrowths
on your bonsai, cut off the affected portion and try spraying a Bordeaux mixture or
copper fungicide.
Resurrection

If you think your Juniper is sick, if you notice foliage dying etc or discolouration, you
can follow this quick process to resurrect it.

Transplant your Juniper from its pot into a larger, deeper pot. Before
repotting it, inspect the roots for fungus, pests & disease and remove any
roots that are decaying
When you think you have removed dying roots, or have followed insecticide
instructions, bring your pot inside
Place the pot in a sink
Fill the sink with lukewarm water up to the rim of the pot
Allow the pot to soak for around 25 minutes

Drain the pot and sit it in a warm sunny location for 24 hours
Place the pot in its normal position, a warm sunny location that receives
shade at certain times of the day


Chapter 3
Styling a Juniper


Bonsai artists the world over choose to work with Junipers due to the adaptability,
functionality and versatility of the species. The Juniper is easy to shape, easy to care
for, and above all is aesthetically pleasing as Bonsai.

Junipers have hardy branches, but are malleable and cope well with change. They
will grow readily in any direction you send them, and are not as fickle as other
species. This makes them an excellent choice for the beginner, intermediate or
expert bonsai artist!

Pruning & Pinching

There are 2 main ways to shape a Juniper, known as pinching and pruning. Both
methods aim to reduce the overall amount of growth along the branches, and
reduce the size of the tree, whilst training it to adopt a specific shape.

Pinching

The process of pinching involves the removal of buds, or the shortening of new
shoots with your fingers, usually your thumb and forefinger. Pinching out the new
shoot or tip you force the tree to bud further back. Pruning and Pinching thus
increases the bushiness of a tree's branches, rather than allowing it to grow up and
out!

Throughout the growing season (Spring), most energy will be directed to new bud
growth. A trees natural desire is to become as large as possible. The larger the tree,
the larger the roots, thus, the more ground it can take water from. By pinching out
new growth as it appears, you will be redirecting the energy inwards, as opposed to
outwards. This will concentrate energy towards the trunk and the start of branches,
which will increase symmetry in your tree.

The main goal is to have symmetrical foliage along all branches no bare patches!

As new shoots appear throughout Spring, pinch them out, ensuring the foliage
remains balanced across the whole tree. Dont worry if there are plenty of bare
patches, this will change over time through your training. By disallowing new bud
growth in areas that already have foliage, you will be telling your tree to grow buds
elsewhere.

Pinching Needle Junipers

Pinch out new growth throughout Spring. On trees that have already taken shape
and are considered trained, pinch the new growth as it appears. On younger, less-
established trees, allow the buds to form and strengthen before pinching them out.
As a general rule pinch out new growth on stronger areas of your tree before weaker
areas. This will allow the weaker areas to play catch-up!

You will tell the difference between strong and weak growth by the appearance of it.
Strong growth will be vibrant and healthy looking, weak growth will be devoid of
great colour and will be weak in appearance.

Pinching Scale Junipers

Scale Junipers tend to form buds quicker than Scale Junipers. Throughout Spring and
Summer you will need to frequently pinch new growth. The easiest way to pinch
Scale Junipers is to watch the outline/profile of your tree. As soon as buds begin
extending past the line of profile, pinch them off. Again, this will focus energy into
lateral growth, further down the trunk and branches.

You may find that some shoots have become elongated and too hard to pinch out.
You will need to use scissors to cut these tricky buds off. This is known as thinning,
and will ensure all the growth on your tree remains healthy, with no ugly dead
patches.


Pruning

Despite whether you have had previous horticultural experience or not, you would
have probably heard the term pruning before. Whether its pruning a moustache or
a rose bush, the goals are the same..

Pruning is the process of shortening branches, or removing them altogether. For this
task you will need a pair of pruning shears, available at any garden store. You can
also purchase smaller ones, used primarily for bonsai, but more on that later!

So now you know the difference between pinching and pruning. We will now take a
look at putting them into practice to aid the process of ramification.

Ramification

Ramification is one of the most important areas of bonsai.

Ramification definitively relates to the branches of your tree, and the manner in
which the trunk diverges into them. Ramification is all about the growth of foliage
along branches, and in bonsai, this has to be carefully controlled. It is this
relationship between trunk, branch and foliage that provides the main aesthetic, and
to achieve this, you must develop your pruning and pinching skills.

There are 2 features of Ramification that you need to familiarize yourself with; Taper
& Internodes.

Taper

Taper refers to the tapering of size throughout the tree. As general rules of bonsai,
the trunk should usually be thickest at the base, tapering off towards the top, the
main branches should be thinner than the trunk, and the secondary branches should
be thinner than the main ones. This is handy to know when buying a bonsai. Always
ensure to buy trees with thick trunk at the base steer clear of ones that vary in size
from top to bottom. You want a nice even taper.

Internodes

The term internode in bonsai, refers to the area between each node (areas where
growth shoots from) on a branch. Generally, the main aim of bonsai is to shorten the
internodes to increase finer ramification. In bonsai, its more about density inwards
than outwards..


Whether you have an established tree or a younger one, you will be able to identify
main branches, or primary branches. These branches will have been selected for
you, if you buy an established Juniper bonsai. It is not advisable to consider changing
what the tree already has, due to the amount of time it will take to create new
primary branches.

Once you have identified the main branches, you can set about identifying secondary
branches, and then tertiary, and so on.

Here is a sequential order of the process:

1. The front of the tree is chosen, that is, the viewing front
2. Established maximum height of the trunk
3. Primary branches chosen
4. Secondary branches chosen
5. Tertiary branches chosen
6. Ramification

Secondary branches develop from primary branches, and tertiary from secondary.
Obviously, young trees will not have a network of branches to choose from, but
eventually your Juniper will. You will begin to notice branches that appear stronger
than others, and ones that appear thicker or thinner. This will help guide your
decisions about their place on your tree.

The ultimate goal for your Juniper will be for it to achieve tertiary ramification.
Hopefully you would have guessed what this means? Thats right, your Juniper will
be a mature, classic bonsai when you are achieving growth along the tertiary
branches and are beginning to shorten the internodes. This process is perhaps one of
the most fulfilling in the art of bonsai!

Secondary and Tertiary Branch Selection

You will most likely have a great many secondary branches to choose from. In order
to efficiently choose the best secondary branches, make a mental note in your mind
of which look the most natural in conjunction with the trees movement. You will
want to ensure you know where you want your tree to go, and the various spacings
between secondary branches. Too many in one spot will create asymmetry!

Choose carefully and prune off unwanted branches at the base of the branch, as
close to the primary branch as possible. The exact same method goes for tertiary
selection.


When you have trimmed off all unwanted branches, you will start to see a basic
shape. If your tree has foliage, you should allow them buds to grow to around 3
inches before cutting them off with scissors. This should be done during Spring.

When your Junipers foliage is all trimmed back (with scissors) and you take a look at
the shape, you need to think in advance for the next growing season. Learn your tree
and imagine that new buds will sprout from areas you have trimmed. The next
growing season you will notice new buds appearing of which you will need to pinch
out. You may be lucky enough to achieve these new buds by the end of the growing
season in which you trim your Juniper too.

By pinching out this new growth, you will promote backbudding further back on the
branches, and the foliage along the branch will become more dense. This will
naturally begin to shorten the internodes, and thus increase ramification. When
backbudding occurs, always allow a full growing season for them to develop. Wait
until next growing season to pinch out.

An example of an unruly primary branch: demonstrating poor internodes with
asymmetrical foliage growth

In the above example, the goal here would be to allow the foliage pads to keep
growing to about 3 inches, thin it out and pinch out new growth to encourage
backbudding between the existing internodes, filling the spaces. You would also
want to remove excess tertiary branches. Here, wiring would also be used to control
the overall movement of branches that are uncooperative, particularly the ones
facing towards the trunk.

The desired outcome: demonstrating good internodes with symmetrical foliage
growth

During all of this mayhem, you will need to begin shaping your Junipers branches;
molding them into desired shapes. For this task, you will need to wire them. More on
wiring later!

Wiring

For some, the wiring of Bonsai using Bonsai wire is considered to be an art form,
whilst For others, wiring is a chore; a necessary evil and a means to an end.
The use of Bonsai wire is necessary for your tree's shape, and is the main way to
sculpt your tree into a work of art.
Wiring is an objective process aimed at changing the overall shape of the Juniper you
are growing. This process will change the shape of the trunk, branches and new
shoots to manipulate the tree into your overall vision. The main objective is to
manipulate the Juniper with minimum impact to its health, and to minimise wire
marks and unnecessary gouges.
Wiring is basically a process whereby wiring tree branches from the trunk upwards
and out leaves splits and tiny fractures in areas of pressure underneath the bark.
Much like muscle growth in humans, as the damaged layers are repaired, the desired
positions are learned by the branches and they grow to your specifications.
The whole process can take months for a tree to learn, but often, in the right season,
positions through wiring can be achieved within a matter of weeks!!!
Wiring is probably the trickiest task for the Bonsai gardener, and it can be frustrating
and time consuming. Try to think of wiring as a game of chess: you must think
ahead!
Types of Wire
Copper Wire - The most common type of wire used by bonsai artists is copper.
Copper wire is the strongest for wiring, but also the least malleable and hardest to
use. If you decide to go with copper wire, ensure you heat it first before bending it,
otherwise you will find it quite hard to achieve the desired shapes.
Aluminium Wire The easiest wire to use. Aluminium wire is malleable and will
cause less damage to your Juniper. Aluminium wire is the best type for beginners
and we recommend getting used to aluminium wire before copper!
TIP Whenever you need to wire the trunk or a branch more firmly, wrap the area
in raffia. Raffia comes from the raffia palm and is a fibrous covering used in arts
and crafts. It will prevent wire from eating into the bark and can be found in arts &
crafts stores or garden centres. You can also buy it online.

Lets look at Juniper wiring techniques in a step-by-step process..
Step 1

Know what you want to achieve by setting wires on your tree. Refer to your goals
and assess what parts of the tree you will need to wire to manipulate its shape.
Remember: we are not trying to manipulate its shape instantly, you have to think
ahead of how your anchor points will affect its future shape.
Step 2
Decide what type of Bonsai wire you will use..
As a rough rule of thumb:
Thicker and heavier wire will result in less wire marks on the tree but makes the
wiring of Bonsai harder and less forgiving. As a rule of thumb the Bonsai wire should
be approx. 1/3 the thickness of the branch you are wiring. One tree can use up to 5
different thicknesses of wire
Thinner Wire is easier to apply to the tree and thus shapes are easier to
manipulate, but leaves wire marks more readily than thick
Start wiring from the trunk and work upwards. Rarely will your tree require the
same thickness wire all over. Let your Juniper be your guide!
TIP Never use Iron or Steel in the wiring of Bonsai These types of wire can react
badly, particularly with Juniper sap, and can kill the tree (Blackrot)!
Step 3
Choose your wiring time!!!! Again, Spring is the ideal season for it, given the healthy
amounts of sap flow and growth tendency. When sap flow is slower, trees are less
malleable and harder to manipulate. If you decide to wire your tree close to winter,
expect your tree to suffer problems. During winter months and cold temperatures it
is harder for your tree to repair damage, leaving it susceptible to the elements.

Step 4 - Wire your tree!!!!
Lets look at the 2 different types of basic wiring you will most likely encounter on
your Bonsai journey.
Standard Juniper Wiring
1. Anchor one end of your wire into the soil, or through a hole (if there is one) on the
side or lip of your pot.
2. Firstly wrap your Bonsai wire around the base of the tree tightly, using 45 DEGREE
COILS!!!!!! (see photo) then continue up to the top, ensuring the wire is tight, but
not too tight. It can be beneficial to use a double wire of thin gauge on a trunk.
2 Branch Wiring Principle
To effectively anchor two branches that lie on either side of the trunk, close
together, the 2 branch principle applies. It is an incredibly effective technique, and
ensures both branches are securely anchored.

Heres how to do it

1. Find a solid anchor point for the wire other branches, the trunk, a jin or the
branch adjacent to the one you need to wire.

2. If an adjacent branch is used to anchor, this will be most effective this is the 2
branch principle. One branch serves as an anchor point for the other.

3. Simply coil your wire from one branch across to the other. If the adjacent branch
is further down or up the trunk than the one you need to wire, take a few turns
around the trunk leading to the adjacent branch. REMEMBER ENSURE THE RIGHT
TIGHTNESS and 45 DEGREE angles!!!!!

A tree demonstrating the 2 branch principle

Bonsai Tools
So, at this point, you are most likely wondering what your bonsai tool kit should
comprise? There are specific tools that every bonsai artist should own, but generally,
you can get away with the bare minimum, unless you want to become an absolute
professional.
Pruners
You will need pruners for heavy pruning, especially on trees with thicker branches
and heavy foliage. A set of pruners can be purchased at any hardware store. Do not
twist the pruners or use leverage sideways whilst using pruners, this can twist the
blades and twist the area you are pruning, causing damage to both
Leaf Pruners
Used for pruning dense foliage, like on some species of Maple. These pruners are
spring loaded and are twice as fast to use than scissors. Leaf pruners work like
chopsticks joined at the base, only with very sharp tips
Japanese Saws
Used mainly for branch cutting. Japanese saws are small-handle saws that almost
look like an elongated steak knife, and as opposed to general saws, cut on a pull-
stroke. Never use excess force, this will damage the blade and teeth. Also, avoid
using them to cut roots.
Branch Bonsai Cutters
Bonsai cutters have been designed with Bonsai specifically in mind, and perform the
tasks conventional tools cannot, particularly around shaping of smaller branches.
Ensure you purchase stainless steel ones for strength and longevity
Bonsai Scissors
There are 2 main types - Long-Handle & Large Handle
Long-Handle scissors have better leverage and are great for cutting through
masses of roots
Large-Handle scissors are used to cut through twigs and tiny branches. Large
handles allow you to force the scissors inside the branch system to trim finer twigs

Wire Cutters and Pliers
Cutters are needed for cutting wire to shape your tree, whilst pliers are needed to
help shape the wire. Jin pliers can be used to strip bark when making jins
Loppers
Use loppers on thick roots, branches and trunks over 2cm. Branch loppers look
similar to pruners but are much heavier, and have longer handles for leverage
Root Cutters
Use to cut away thick roots before a repot. They look similar to a pair of branch
splitters, and can be used for concave branch cutting
Bow Saws
Bow saws are used for cutting thicker branches, trunks and roots, and are more
appropriate in the early stages of shaping, before fine tuning is required
Branch Splitters
Use a branch splitter to split a section of branch to promote flexibility for bending,
say, before wiring. Do not bend or twist whilst using them - this will damage the tips
and the branch
Branch Cutters
Flat concave cutters are like normal pruners but achieve a precision finish. Use only
for close branch trimming, not as ordinary pruners. There are 3 types: Flat Concave,
Full Concave & Hybrid. Use each type to achieve a clean cut close to the trunk.
Full concave cutters will cut through the branch and leave a crater in the trunk, like
when a dentist removes a tooth. The wound can then be covered with sealant.
When the bark heals the surface will be flat with no evidence of a previous branch
The Hybrid cutter is exactly what the name suggests. a mix of the other two types.
For most, this is the obvious choice to buy as it performs both functions in one. They
are harder to use though and getting the feel of them can take some getting used to!

Chisels and Grafting Knives
Use chisels and grafting knives to create effects, particularly in driftwood. Specialist
Japanese Bonsai chisels are used to create jins and sharis
Power Tools
You can use smaller angle grinders and rotary cutters to make cuts.

As you can probably see, the list of tools you can own can get quite long, but, for
beginners, generally, there are 5 bonsai garden tools that will see you through:
Pruners
Concave Branch Cutters
Bonsai Scissors
Root Pruning Shears
Wire Cutters

Most tools can be purchased online, and most good quality basic kits will start from
US$79.00. Alternatively, you can use common garden tools, like secateurs and
household scissors (strong), but we ultimately recommend using tools made with
bonsai in mind.

Juniper Styles

As we have mentioned previously, the Juniper is among the easiest bonsai to style. It
is adaptive, strong and grows vigorously in a variety of conditions.

Whilst this is true, there are certainly specific styles that the Juniper suits
aesthetically.

As with everything in bonsai, you have the opportunity to make a tree your own. You
will have the opportunity to impose your unique artistry, and reflect it through the
movement of your tree. Try not to stick to convention totally give your tree a
unique look that only you could achieve.

When it come to styling your tree, you will need to understand that the process is
slow, taking years to completely achieve, actually, it is a process that never ends, but
you will come closer to your desired look every year.

The process of styling relies solely on pruning and wiring. Your wiring will restrain
the tree from doing what it wants and you will control the manner in which it grows.
If you want a branch to move left, wire it that way. If you want the trunk to bend
outwards and then inwards, wire it that way. There are no hard and fast rules in
styling, other than good wiring, pruning, pinching and cutting techniques!

Lets have a look at the most common Juniper styles..


Formal Upright

The formal upright style is one of the most common styles you will see. This style,
whilst appearing easy, can be quite hard to achieve if your Juniper is not already
straight and upward moving. This style replicates a wild tree that has been allowed
to grow upwards.

To achieve formal upright, you have to ensure that your trunk wiring is strong,
starting the process when the tree is very young. Younger trees have more malleable
trunks, and will adopt styles much more readily than older trees. If your tree is older
and already has established movement in the trunk, try going for a different style.


Informal Upright

The informal upright style is generally the most common style for Junipers. The main
goal in achieving informal upright is to have branches and foliage pads emerge from
the turns in the trunk, as displayed above.

Informal upright in Junipers generally consist of horizontal branches and fluffy pads
of foliage, also referred to as clouds. This will largely be achieved by good trunk
wiring from an early age (often anchored to the base of the pot), and branch
trimming, only allowing branches to grow from the turns in the trunk. You will also
have to vigilantly prune and pinch the foliage pads to achieve good ramification.



Ahhh yes, the famous cascade style Who wouldnt want their Juniper to adopt
this style? This is by far our favourite style, and probably one of the hardest to
achieve. If youre up for the challenge though, you will impress any observer with
the amazing aesthetic this style provides! It replicates a tree having been naturally
blown down by wind on a cifftop.

Although hard to achieve, the cascade styles utilize the same techniques to achieve
any style, except you need to work downwards. The crown of the tree has to be
below the base of the pot, unless you go for semi-cascade, whereby the crown is
above the pot, with the secondary branches trailing off below the pot.

Ensure you double-wire the trunk to securely send the trunk downwards.
Remember, because you will be wiring heavily, wrap the trunk in raffia to protect it
from scarring!

Anchor the wire at the base of the tree (to the pot or into the soil, preferably to the
pot, maybe through a drainage hole) for strength and stability.

Windswept

It would be fair to suggest that the windswept style is the hardest to achieve. The
windswept style mimics a tree in the wild that has been constantly hit by wind and
storms. It has a mystical appearance but is tricky and challenging!

The key observation here is to ensure the trunk, branches and foliage are all moving
in the same direction. The width of the tree must always be greater than the height,
and the slant of the branch should always be in the same direction as the branches.

To train your Juniper into adopting this look, you will need a lot of wiring on the
secondary and tertiary branches. Some branches will require angular curves, which
can only be achieved over time never try to force this with your hands! If your
branches are headed outwards, your foliage will follow suit, provided you aim the
foliage pads outwards!


Slanting

A slanting Juniper is achieved much the same way as windswept. The difference is in
the branches. With a slanting Juniper you are not attempting to have the foliage
pads and branches headed in the same direction as the trunk.

You basically need the trunk to move on a 45-60 angle, and have branches in similar
internodes down the trunk, preferably at opposing junctions at each side. By this, we
mean on one side of the trunk where a branch is, the opposite side should have no
branch there.

You will also want to have your secondary branches sloping downwards slightly.


Advanced Jin/Shari/Deadwood


You may have heard the terms shari and jin among bonsai circles. This really is an
advanced technique and we would advise becoming experienced in Juniper care
before attempting either. The processes essentially involve killing areas of your tree
to achieve a certain weathered look. It looks absolutely stunning, but is time
consuming and often dangerous to your tree if you arent careful.

Jin
In the simplest description, Jin is a technique performed on the apex of the tree to
display old age or a struggle against adversity for survival. In nature, jins occur
through lightning or storms where the top section of the tree (trunk) has been killed.
To achieve this, the bark must be removed from a point on the trunk, to the leader
(top of the trunk). The wood under the removed bark dies and a jin is formed.

Shari
A shari basically refers to deadwood along the trunk of the tree. You will generally
find shari on the front of bonsai where they are more readily viewed.

To create shari, you will need to select the areas of your Juniper that you want to
work on. The best areas are those that have already been injured or areas of
dead/rotten wood. You will need to imagine lines on the trunk that you want to cut,
and score them with a sharp cutting implement not too deep, just beneath the
bark, into the cambium (tissue below the bark). You then lift strips of bark you have
cut and scrub with a wire brush to bring out the grain texture.

The areas you have exposed will eventually die and create shari!


FAQ

Below is a list of frequently asked questions taken from bonsai-made-easy.com.

When is the best time to repot my Juniper?
The best time to repot your Juniper is at the start of Spring, when the buds begin
appearing. This is when the tree is in its peak growing time and will take to anew pot
more readily.

How frequently should I water my Juniper?
Your Juniper should be watered twice daily once in the morning and once in the
evening never in direct sunlight, and never water the leaves!

My Juniper looks limp and is dropping foliage what is wrong?
It is always hard to diagnose a tree without seeing it, but generally, trees will look
limp and ill from being underwatered. Alternatively your tree could adopt this
appearance from overwatering a rotting rootball from poor draining soil.

When should I prune my Juniper?
You should prune your Juniper from the start of Spring through Summer

How often should I feed my Juniper?
You should feed your Juniper weekly throughout Spring using liquid fertilizer, and
every 3 weeks with a few high N pellets. Throughout Summer you should feed it
liquid fertilizer every 3 weeks, tapering off to nothing by autumn.

I live in a cold climate how do I prepare my Juniper for Winter?
Basically the cold is normal for a Juniper. You should leave it much like any other
tree, except, if you experience a long period of extreme cold and snow, its wise to
place your Juniper in a greenhouse/shed etc after 2 or so days of icy conditions. Your
Juniper will need to experience the winter to trigger dormancy, and warming the
tree up will break dormancy and confuse things very much!

How do I wire my Juniper branches?
Use thin gauge aluminium or copper wire approximately 1/3 width of the branch you
are wiring. Wire at 45 angles, much like wrapping an injured ankle!


So there you have it. If you learn the information in this book, you should be well on
your way to bonsai mastery.

We cant say it enough, but the Juniper really is an amazing tree and is a necessity in
any bonsai collection.

So what are you waiting for? Start one today and impress your friends with your
artistry!

Thank you for reading!


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Junipers Made Easy

The Juniper Tree

Types of Juniper Trees

2- Make the best of your Bonsai's unique features

3 Establish the front and back of your Bonsai

4 Understand your Bonsai's strengths and weaknesses

5 - Think 3D, without the silly glasses

6 Think like Da Vinci, realize your masterpieces potential

7 - Draw a before image of your Bonsai

8 - Draw a proposed image of your Bonsai

9 - Acknowledge your Bonsai's faults

10 - Address each negative and seek to resolve

Initial Point of Focus

One Strong Line

Several smaller lines or shapes

Additional detail and textures

These are attractive to the eye, and conjure feelings of speed.

Also, if an artist wishes only to produce a small number of specific Bonsai,

Propagation from seed

Growing Junipers from cuttings

There are 3 categories of cuttings:

Softwood cuttings are taken from young, new growth.

Use clean, well drained rooting mediums

The application of hormones (if they are absent in the medium)

Lets have a look how to make a cutting box.

How to make a cutting box

Here is a quick checklist to grow a Juniper from a cutting:

Bonsai in a confined environment. Sacrifices must be made if you want to grow a

When it comes to watering your Juniper, there are 2 basic rules:

We definitely recommend a combination as a part of your feeding schedule, but

How does it work?

But what does this mean, you ask?

Observe this reference guide for feeding your Juniper

Fertilizers high in N (Nitrogen) are rated 8 or higher

Use food (fertiliser) at the start of Spring through autumn

Keep an eye on your tree for signs of overfeeding

Use fertiliser during Winter

Choosing your Junipers pot

Fragile and thinner looking trees - literati

For forest plantings

For Literati styles

Hexagonal & Octagonal

For Literati styles with symmetry

For windswept and driftwood styles

Texture & Glaze

As a rough guide you should plant Junipers in an unglazed brown or dark-coloured

Lip Shape & Feet

Pot & Style Matching Guide!

Medium/deep rectangular or oval. Varies in accordance with trunk thickness

Informal Upright & Coiled

Medium/deep rectangular, oval or round. Varies in accordance with trunk

Medium depth rectangular or oval

Medium depth rectangular, rough-textured and unglazed

Deep square, hexagonal or octagonal

Medium depth circular, inward pointing lip, square, hexagonal, unglazed

Medium/shallow oval or round

Medium-depth square, hexagonal, round or octagonal

Root Over Rock

Medium/deep rectangular, oval or round

Split-trunk & Driftwood

Medium/deep rectangular or modern, unglazed

See Medium/deep rectangular, round or oval. Varies in accordance with

Shallow oval or stone slab

Use good sterile soil when mixing composts.