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Pure Appl. Geophys.

2017 Springer International Publishing AG


DOI 10.1007/s00024-017-1584-0 Pure and Applied Geophysics

Meteotsunamis Occurring Along the Southwest Coast of South America During an Intense
Storm
MATIAS CARVAJAL,1,2 MANUEL CONTRERAS-LOPEZ,3 PATRICIO WINCKLER,4 and IGNACIO SEPULVEDA5

AbstractIn this paper, we report meteotsunamis occurring 1. Introduction


along the Chilean and Peruvian coasts. These atmospherically
induced tsunami-like oscillations were instrumentally recorded
during an intense storm that affected central Chile on August 8th, The destructive effects produced by recent
2015. The storm was characterized by strong winds, a locally meteotsunamis in different coastal regions of the
unprecedented atmospheric low pressure and intense sea-level
world highlight their importance as coastal hazards
oscillations which caused six casualties and severe damage to
infrastructure along *500 km of coastline. The meteotsunamis are and the need for their characterization. Meteot-
analyzed on both regional and local scales. On the regional scale, sunamis are typically defined as tsunami-like waves
the temporal behavior and spatial behavior were discussed from the induced by atmospheric disturbances that can reach
analysis of various tide gauges covering roughly 3000 km of the
southwest coast of South America, between Callao, in central Peru, the coast with hazardous heights as a consequence of
and Lebu, in southern Chile. Surprisingly, the phenomenon was various resonant processes (Monserrat et al. 2006;
recorded in the majority of the tide gauges in this vast region. On Vilibic et al. 2015; Pattiaratchi and Wijeratne 2015).
the area constrained by the storm region, a more detailed analysis is
performed. We confirm the atmospheric origin of these intense sea-
The resonant mechanisms occur when the atmo-
level oscillations by further analyzing meteorological records of air spheric disturbance persistently transfers energy
pressure and wind. An attempt to explain local (shelf and harbor) either into local free ocean waves propagating
resonant mechanisms is achieved by means of wavelet analysis,
towards the coast (Proudman 1929) or into trapped
while Greenspan and Proudman resonance mechanisms are
superficially analyzed. Our results indicate that large meteot- edge waves propagating along the coast (Greenspan
sunamis can occur along the west coast of South America and, 1956). Meteotsunamis can further be intensified near
when combined with other meteooceanographic conditions, may the coast through other local mechanisms such as
cause damage levels comparable to those resulting from Mw [8
earthquake generated tsunamis. shelf and harbor resonance (Raichlen 1966; Mon-
serrat et al. 2006; Sepic et al. 2009; Vilibic and Sepic
Key words: Tsunami, wavelet analysis, storm of August 8th 2009).
2015 in central Chile.
Although meteotsunamis might occur anywhere
in the world, most reports have been limited to the
northern hemisphere. For instance, meteotsunamis
have been observed along the coasts of Spain,
Croatia, Japan, United States, Italy, China, the Baltic
Sea, and Sri Lanka, as depicted in Fig. 1a (Pat-
1 tiaratchi and Wijeratne 2015). Conversely, evidence
Escuela de Ciencias del Mar, Pontificia Universidad
Catolica de Valparaso, Valparaso, Chile. E-mail: for meteotsunamis in the southern hemisphere is
matias.carvajal.ramirez@gmail.com scarce. The few confirmed cases have been reported
2
Millennium Nucleus for the Earthquake Cycle Along mainly in New Zealand (Goring 2009), Australia
Subduction Zones (CYCLO), Valparaso, Chile.
3
Facultad de Ingeniera y Centro de Estudios Avanzados, (Pattiaratchi and Wijeratne 2014), South Africa (Okal
Universidad de Playa Ancha, Valparaso, Chile. E-mail: et al. 2014), Argentina (Dragani et al. 2014), and
manuel.contreras@upla.cl Brazil (Candella 2009). Although recently, Vilibic
4
Escuela de Ingeniera Civil Oceanica, Universidad de
Valparaso, Valparaso, Chile. E-mail: patricio.winckler@uv.cl
and Sepic (2017) reported tsunami-like sea-level
5
School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell oscillations of up to 152 cm in Baha Mansa (40.68
University, Ithaca, USA. E-mail: is328@cornell.edu
M. Carvajal et al. Pure Appl. Geophys.
Meteotsunami in Southeast Pacific

b Figure 1 six casualties, massive beach erosion, and destruction


a Worldwide distribution of meteotsunamis. Red dots indicate the
of port facilities (Winckler et al. 2017; EM-DAT
location of previously reported meteotsunamis (Pattiaratchi and
Wijeratne 2015; Vilibic and Sepic 2017). The light green area 2017). Figure 2 depicts the impact of the storm and
indicates the coastal region of the meteotsunamis reported in this the aftermath in various sites within Valparaso Bay.
study. b 2-h high pass filtered time series of sea-level records for Losses to fishing ports and promenades in the bays of
Chile and south Peru. The storm path, defined by the lowest
atmospheric pressure obtained from synoptic charts (DGAC 2016), Valparaso and Quintero exceeded US$ 8 million
is depicted in red circles every 6 h. The white triangle shows the (Winckler et al. 2017, op. cit.).
location of Robinson Crusoe Island. The plot on the right shows the The storm path, defined herein by the position of
latitudinal distribution of the maximum crest-to-trough heights at
coastal stations. From north to south, stations are located in Callao,
the lowest atmospheric pressure, is depicted in
Matarani, Arica, Pisagua, Iquique, Patache, Tocopilla, Mejillones, Fig. 1b. The storm became significant around 500 km
Antofagasta, Paposo, Tal Tal, Chanaral, Caldera, Huasco, off the Chilean coasts, as a consequence of the sud-
Coquimbo, Pichidangui, Quintero, San Antonio, Bucalemu, Con-
den reduction of the atmospheric pressure of up to
stitucion, Quiriquina, Talchauano, Coronel, Lebu, Queule, Corral,
Baha Mansa, and Ancud. The continuous and dashed red lines 981 hPa on August 7th at 18 h UTM (Fig. 1d). The
indicate the locations shown and not shown in b, respectively. storm travelled steadily eastward for about 18 h and
c Along-shore distance of tide gauges, measured northward from then drifted southeastward, making landfall near
Pichidangui, versus arrival times for the sea-level disturbances. The
propagation speed of 21 m/s was inferred from the best-fit line. Talcahuano upon reaching normal atmospheric
d Magnitude of the lowest atmospheric pressure (LP) offshore pressures.
Chile, adapted from DGAC (2016). All times are in UTC On a regional scale, sea-level oscillations exhib-
ited an interesting spatial and temporal behavior.
73.78W), located in southwestern South America, to Figure 1b shows that intense sea-level oscillations
date, no meteotsunamis in this region of the world with periods lower than 2 h affected a coastal region
ocean have been well characterized. extending for about 3000 km. The duration of the
Here, we use high-resolution sea-level records to sea-level disturbance increased with the distance to
characterize meteotsunamis occurring in the south- the storm path: in stations located in central Chile
east Pacific region during the intense storm that (e.g., Pichidangui and Bucalemu), the initial distur-
affected central Chile (3035S) on August 8th, 2015 bance decayed in less than a day, while in distant
(Winckler et al. 2017). Sea-level oscillations are stations (e.g., Arica and Callao), disturbances
characterized in terms of both amplitude and fre- remained significant for roughly 2 days after which
quency and then compared with current definitions of the signal returned to background levels.
meteotsunamis (Rabinovich 1997; Monserrat et al. Maximum crest-to-trough heights, estimated
2006; Pattiaratchi and Wijeratne 2015; Vilibic and through the zero-up-crossing method (Fig. 1b, right),
Sepic 2017). We show that unusual, intense tsunami- were larger between Pichidangui and Bucalemu,
like waves with an atmospheric origin occurred along showing a subtle attenuation toward the north and a
central Chile, eventually reaching Callao (Peru), rapid decrease toward the south. The stations of
roughly 2000 km north of the storm path. Arica, Pisagua, and Iquique, located at about
1500 km from the storm path, also recorded signifi-
cant oscillations. Stations located southward from
2. The August 8th, 2015 Storm of Central Chile Bucalemu and those sited to the north of Callao
showed negligible disturbances.
On August 8th, 2015, an intense storm caused Figure 1c depicts the propagation speed of the
massive destruction of coastal infrastructure along sea-level disturbance, obtained from the slope of the
*500 km of the coast of central Chile, from best-fit line between the along-shore distance from
Coquimbo to Bucalemu (Fig. 1b). The combination Pichidangui and the arrival time at each station. The
of wind gusts of up to 110 km/h, a locally unprece- inferred propagation speed of 21 m/s suggests that
dented atmospheric pressure of 991 hPa, recorded on the disturbances did not travel as free long waves
coastal stations and waves of significant wave heights from the source (since the phase speed of a long wave
of up to 7.2 m off the coast of Valparaso resulted in at a depth of 4 km is in the order of 200 m/s). Instead,
M. Carvajal et al. Pure Appl. Geophys.

Figure 2
Damage to coastal infrastructure in Valparaso Bay during the storm of August 8th, 2015 (adapted from Winckler et al. 2017). a Piers in
Caleta Portales, which suffered damage due to wave slamming. b Overtopping causing damage to a railway and a highway connecting the
cities of Valparaso and Vina del Mar. Yolanda beach c before and after the storm, experiencing massive erosion

the arrival times of the perturbations are consistent 3000 km in Chile and Peru. The time series of 1-min
with edge waves travelling in the southnorth direc- sampling interval were provided by the Hydrographic
tion, as shown in Sect. 5. and Oceanographic Service of the Chilean Navy
(SHOA) and UNESCO-IOC (http://www.ioc-
sealevelmonitoring.org). In this report, meteot-
3. Meteotsunamis Identification sunamis were classified as atmospherically induced
sea-level oscillations meeting the following criteria:
To identify meteotsunamis during the storm of (1) periods of sea-level disturbances ranging between
August 8th, 2015, we initially processed digital sea- 2 min and 2 h and (2) sea-level surface elevations
level records from 28 stations covering nearly exceeding four standard deviations in the residual
Meteotsunami in Southeast Pacific

signal, obtained by removing the astronomical tide MATLAB toolbox (Pawlowicz et al. 2002). A 2-h
and low-frequency oscillations beyond 2 h from the low-pass filter was then applied to the de-tided time
sea-level record (e.g., Monserrat et al. 2006; Pellikka series to remove low-frequency oscillations that fall
et al. 2014; Pattiaratchi and Wijeratne 2015; Bechle outside the range defined for meteotsunamis. This
et al. 2015). Surface elevation is defined herein as the step yielded two signals associated to long-period
vertical distance between the instantaneous sea-level phenomena (Fig. 3b) and high-frequency residual
and the 2-h mean sea-level. time series from which meteotsunamis can be
Although storm-induced sea-level oscillations identified (Fig. 3c). It is important to remark that
were observed in many tide stations along the Chi- the residual time series can contain infragravity
lean and south Peruvian coasts (Fig. 1b), in this waves between 30 s and 5 min (Munk 1950) as
study, we focused on those located within the storm well as swell waves that are aliased into the long-
path (Coquimbo, Pichidangui, Quintero, San Anto- wave signal which may be overlapped with
nio, and Bucalemu) and on two stations far away meteotsunamis. The separation of these oscillations
from the storm path (Arica and Callao). Unfortu- would require wave records at high sampling
nately, sea-level records in Valparaso, where most of intervals which were unfortunately unavailable at
the coastal damage was reported, failed to measure these or nearby stations. Note that the filtering
during the storm. process based on a cut-off period of 2 h for the
Sea-level records were first subjected to careful low-pass filter is not universally used. For instance,
quality control, in which outliers were removed. Pattiaratchi and Wijeratne (2014, 2015) used a 36-h
The time series for the selected stations are shown cut-off period, while Bechle et al. (2015) filtered
in Fig. 3a. The meteotsunami signal was extracted long-period oscillations beyond 6 h. We assume
from each record through a series of filtering pro- herein that high energy oscillations beyond 2 h are
cesses (e.g. Dragani et al. 2014). We first removed associated with other long-period phenomena (e.g.,
the tidal components from the original time series storm surge) and are thus removed from the
by applying a harmonic analysis with the T-Tide residual signal to isolate the meteotsunami.

Figure 3
Time series from tide stations located far away from the storm path (Callao and Arica) and in Central Chile (Coquimbo, Pichidangui,
Quintero, San Antonio, and Bucalemu). For each station, time series of 1-min sampling are shown for the period between August 7th and 11th,
2015, in UTC time. a Original time series, b 2-h low-pass filtered time series with the tidal component removed, and c residual time series
from which meteotsunamis are identified
M. Carvajal et al. Pure Appl. Geophys.
Meteotsunami in Southeast Pacific

b Figure 4 other hand, the residual time series in Fig. 3c reveal


Time and frequency characteristics of the residual time series for
unusual sea-level oscillations that took place during
the sea-level measurements at a Callao, b Coquimbo, c Bucalemu,
and d San Antonio between August 7th and 11th, 2015. The upper the August 8th in all stations. Surprisingly, high-
panel of each station shows the sea-surface elevation (g) compared frequency oscillations observed at Callao and Arica,
with the 4r threshold criterion. The bottom left panels show the located roughly 1500 and 2500 km away from the
wavelet power spectrum, in which red contours indicate a 95%
level of confidence. The bottom right panels show the global storm path, respectively, are comparable in amplitude
wavelet spectrum (GWS) for the same time interval (blue) and for a with those observed in Central Chile. In contrast,
2-month period of background oscillations covering June and July relatively small sea-surface elevations in San Antonio
2015 (red). The numbers correspond to local peak periods. The
dashed line indicates a 95% level of confidence. All times are in
are remarkably smaller than those at neighboring
UTC stations (e.g., Quintero and Bucalemu).
Timefrequency characteristics of the residual
time series in Callao, Coquimbo, San Antonio, and
Bucalemu are shown in Fig. 4 (the record of Arica is
Because of the transient nature of meteotsunamis, similar to that of Callao, and those of Pichidangui and
we analyzed the timefrequency characteristics of the Quintero are similar to that of Bucalemu and are thus
residual time series by means of wavelets. We used omitted for brevity). The upper panels of each station
the software package developed by Torrence and show the sea-surface elevations (g) of the residual
Compo (1998), and used the Morlet mother wavelet. time series and the 4 standard deviation threshold
To verify the atmospheric origin for the sea-level (4r), beyond which many meteotsunamis are
disturbances, we examined nearby meteorological identified according to the adopted definition.
stations that were active during the storm. We com- Wavelet power spectra (WPS) are shown in the lower
pared time series of wind and atmospheric pressure left panels. To define background levels at each
from meteorological stations at Montemar (5-min location, a global wavelet spectrum (GWS) of a
sampling), Las Cruces (10-min sampling), and El 2-month period covering between June and July 2015
Yali (10-min sampling) with the sea-level records is computed and shown in red line on the lower right
from the nearby stations of Quintero, San Antonio, panels.
and Bucalemu, respectively. Site-specific timefrequency patterns are
observed in some records. For instance, the time
series in Coquimbo shows a strong background
4. Meteotsunamis Along the Central Coast of Chile energy band around 30 min, which was doubled
during the storm (Fig. 4b). The peaks of 3 and
Figure 3 shows the signal processing for each of 18 min, probably associated with free modes of the
the selected sea-level records, covering from the Bay of Coquimbo, were enhanced after the storm
August 7th to 11th, 2015. The records of Pichidangui, peak as a consequence of harbor resonance. Simi-
Quintero, and Bucalemu contain minor gaps, the larly, the existing background peak of 5 min in
largest of which is of about 5.5 h. With the exception Bucalemu was increased during the storm, while
of a short gap occurring in Pichidangui, these gaps peaks of 14, 42, and 66 min seem to appear only
occur roughly 2 days after the storm peak, making during the occurrence of the event (Fig. 4c). The
them irrelevant for the analyses. energy levels in San Antonio are relatively milder
The 2-h low-pass filtered time series of Fig. 3b than those in the other stations (Fig. 4d). Probably,
provide information of long-period phenomena due to the intrincated layout of the port where the San
affecting the sea level. These long-period signals Antonio tide gauge is located, the GWS is charac-
indicate that the storm surge was relatively minor in terized by various peaks which were exited beyond
Central Chile, with the exception of Bucalemu. background levels during the storm.
Indeed, the sea-level increment within the low-fre- The timefrequency characteristics of the sea-
quency band at this station was almost 1 m, while for level oscillations observed far away to the north of
other stations, these oscillations were minor. On the the storm region provide evidence for propagation of
M. Carvajal et al. Pure Appl. Geophys.

edge waves. The WPS of Callao (Fig. 4a) and Arica respectively, which have the same order of magnitude
(not shown) shows that most of the incoming waves of the observed propagation speed inferred from the
are associated with relatively high periods of around records (Fig. 1c).
7 min, suggesting the presence of edge waves trav- To establish a possible relation between the high-
elling northward along the continental shelf from the frequency sea-level fluctuations and the atmospheric
storm region. This is supported by the similarity forcing, wind and atmospheric pressure records in the
between the propagation speed inferred from the coastal stations of Montemar, El Yali, and Las Cruces
records and the theoretical speed for edge waves are compared to the near tide stations of Quintero,
(e.g., Mei et al. 2005). Indeed, if we consider a Bucalemu, and San Antonio, respectively. The WPSs
constant average slope of 1.3% in the continental of atmospheric pressure in Fig. 6 show that the sea-
shelf of Chile and South Peru (200 m isobath is level oscillations at tide stations during August 8th
15 km offshore; Fig. 5a, b) and a wave period of were preceded by an increase in high-frequency
7 min, the theoretical phase speed for the Stokes fluctuations of atmospheric pressure over a broad
(n = 0) and first mode (n = 1) are 8.5 and 25.5 m/s, frequency band of up to 128 min. This frequency

Figure 5
a Map and depth contours of the bathymetry of central Chile. b Cross-sectional bathymetric profile of the Chilean margin, including the
ChilePeru trench, near Pichidangui, as depicted in a. The inset shows a zoom in the continental shelf. c Time series of atmospheric pressure
in La Punta, located in Robinson Crusoe Island, and San Antonio. The inset shows the cross-correlation function and the lag of maximum
correlation from which the propagation speed of the storm was estimated. Note that the high-frequency oscillations at both stations occur at a
similar time after the atmospheric pressure minima, which allows us to assume that these perturbations and the storm travelled at similar
speeds
Meteotsunami in Southeast Pacific

Figure 6
Meteorological records for a Montemar, b El Yali, and c Las Cruces, located near the tide stations of Quintero, Bucalemu, and San Antonio,
respectively. Upper panels show the original time series of wind. Middle panels show time series of atmospheric pressure of both original
records (grey line) and 2-h high pass filtered signal (black). The high-frequency sea-level oscillations for Quintero, Bucalemu, and San
Antonio are shown in light green for comparison. Lower panels show wavelet power spectrum (WPS) for the high-frequency time series of
atmospheric pressure plotted in middle panels. All times are in UTC

range enfolds the peaks of energy in sea-level fluc- mechanisms mentioned in the Introduction. Because
tuations observed in coastal stations of central Chile the storm propagated eastward and almost perpen-
(WPS in Fig. 4bd). The match between the spectral dicular to the shore, and then drifted southeast
energy content of atmospheric pressure and sea-level (Fig. 1b), we assume that Greenspan resonance was
records along the coast of central Chile provides not particularly relevant in this event. This specula-
evidence of the meteorological origin of the latter. tion leaves Proudman, shelf, and harbor resonance as
However, the intensity of the sea-level oscillations at possible candidates responsible for the large
the coast cannot be explained by the atmospheric meteotsunamis.
pressure disturbances alone. For instance, while high- To verify to what extent Proudman resonance
frequency atmospheric pressure oscillations at Las could have contributed, we calculated the offshore
Cruces (near San Antonio) were significantly larger region along the storm path where this resonant
than those at El Yali (near Bucalemu), the sea-level mechanism could have occurred. To this end, we
response was significantly stronger in Bucalemu than estimated the propagation speed of the atmospheric
in San Antonio. Wind records suggest that this vari- disturbance by cross-correlating the time series of
able also played a role in the meteotsunamis observed atmospheric pressure in La Punta, in Robinson Cru-
on the coast, since in contrast to the atmospheric soe Island (white triangle in Fig. 1b), and San
pressure observations, stronger winds were observed Antonio; both located 680 km apart and roughly
at El Yali than in Las Cruces (upper panels of Fig. 6). aligned with the storm path (Fig. 1b). The computed
lag of 381 min for the maximum correlation between
both time series (Fig. 5c) suggests that the storm
5. Discussion and Concluding Remarks travelled eastward at an average speed of 30 m/s.
Since the high-frequency atmospheric disturbances
The large meteotsunamis of up to 1.25 m crest-to- occurred systematically after the atmospheric pres-
trough heights observed on August 8th along central sure minima (Fig. 6), it is reasonable to assume that
Chile likely required at least one of the amplification these disturbances also travelled at a similar speed.
M. Carvajal et al. Pure Appl. Geophys.

Such inferred speed of 30 m/s is comparable to the subduction zones (CYCLO), Chile, and Dr. Samuel
p
phase speed of a long wave (c gh) travelling Hormazabal (PUCV) for his advice and encouragement
along the local continental shelf, which mean depth is on the use of timefrequency analysis techniques.
about 100 m (Fig. 5a, b). Although this simple P. Winckler would like to thank CONICYT (Chile)
analysis may support the occurrence of Proudman through its grant FONDECYT 11150003. I. Sepulveda
resonance, we presume that its contribution was thanks Fulbright and CONICYT for financial assistance
minor, since the local continental shelf is unusually in the form of studentships. We thank the following
narrow (*15 km) and thus the horizontal distance of institutions for providing meteorological data: Fondo de
coupling may be too small to explain the large Desarrollo Disciplinario de Medio Ambiente-Facultad
meteotsunamis observed at the coast (Hibiya and de Ingeniera (UPLA), Laboratorio de Meteorologa-
Kajiura 1982; Vilibic 2008). Indeed, being this con- Instituto de Geografa (PUCV), Estacion Costera de
tinental shelf one of the narrowest worldwide (Paris Investigaciones Marinas (PUC), Estacion Montemar-
et al. 2016), we believe that its response to both storm Facultad de Ciencias del Mar y de Recursos Naturales
surge and meteotsunamis is quite unique and should (UV), Secretara Regional Ministerial de Medio Ambi-
be further addressed. ente de Valparaso (MMA), SOPRAVAL, and
The contribution of shelf and harbor resonance is AGROSUPER. Finally, we would like to deeply thank
difficult to estimate, since, as mentioned above, sea- Alexander Rabinovich, Jadranka Sepic, and two anony-
level stations are located in coastal areas. Though the mous reviewers for providing useful comments and
background peaks obtained from wavelet analysis suggestions that greatly improved the manuscript.
provide some of the evidence needed to prove if such
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(Received March 21, 2017, revised May 26, 2017, accepted May 30, 2017)

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