PRODUCTIONS

OPERATIONS
MANAGEMENT
END TERM REPORT

In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for

The Diploma Garment manufacturing
2008-2010

Submitted to Prof. Tarun Pandey &

Prof. Suranjan Lahiri
Date of Submission-05.05.2009

Submitted by
Reema Chuchra
Chitra Rastogi
Nitin Kushwah
1
 GM - 2nd sem

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Working on this project has been an enriching experience, which

provided a platform not only for learning different
processes that are involved in the production of a
garment, the different machineries used as well as an
opportunity to face the practical difficulties in obtaining
the primary information from the people, so as to
achieve the goal.

Mr. TARUN PANDEY and Mr. SURANJAN LAHIRI gives us an

opportunity to work on this project and in turn gain in
depth knowledge of the module of PRODUCTION
OPERATIONS & PLANNING by seeing its working and
functioning ourselves.

The project report bears the imprint of many people who are
involved in the successful completion of this project.

Most importantly we would like to thank the following people at

MARAL OVERSEAS without whose help, guidance,

2
 knowledge and support we would not have been able
to finish this project.

CONTENTS

SNO Topic

1. COMPANY’S PROFILE
2. PRODUCT DETAILS
3. DETAILS OF FABRIC
4. DETAILS OF TRIMS/ACCESSORIES
5. MEASUREMENT CHART
6. FLOW CHART OF MANUFACTURING PROCESS
7. FABRIC DEPARTMENT
8. CUTTING DEPARTMENT

9. CUT ORDER PLAN

10. SEWING DEPARTMENT
11. PRE PRODUCTION PLANNIING
12. TIME AND ACTION PLAN
13. BILL OF MATERIALS
14. PRODUCTION PLANNING- GANTT CHART
15. CAPACITY PLANNING
16. CAPACITY CALCULATION
17. OPERATION BULLETIN
18. ASSEMBLY LINE BALANCING
19. LINE BALANCING CALCULATIONS
20. MACHINERY MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
21. APPAREL PRODUCTION SYSTEMS

3
 SNO Topic Pg No

22. COMPLIANCE
23. BROKEN NEEDLE POLICY
24. FINISHING DEPARTMENT
25. PLANT LAYOUTS
26. CUTTING DEPARTMENT- CUTTING MACHINES
27. MARKER MAKING, MARKER PLANNING
28. MARKING MODES
29. SPREADING OR LAYERING

30. SPREADING MODES

31. CUT ORDER PLAN
32. FUSING
33. TIME AND MOTION ANALYSIS
34. WORK STUDY
35. METHOD STUDY
36. TIME STUDY
37. CONCLUSION

MARAL OVERSEAS LTD.

Company Address : A-11, Hosiery Complex,

Phase - II (Extension),

Noida - 201305 (U.P.)

Nature of Business : Garment Mfg. and Exporting

Year of Business Establishment : 1989

4
Brands Offered : Nike, M&S, Timberland, Cotton
Ginny, Next, Patagonia, Orvis, Blair,
etc.

Export Markets : Canada, Europe, USA, Japan, Gulf,

Total Production Capacity per Day : 10,000 – 15,000 Pcs.

Total No. of Sewing Machines : 855 no

Total No. of Finishing Machines : 34 nos

Total No. of Cutting Machines : 21 nos

PRODUCT RANGE
OVERVIEW

Taking advantage of its in-house spinning and fabric production. They

manufacture garments for various categories like Casual, Leisure, Night,
Active & Sports wear.

Different fabric structures & textures are used such as S/jersey, Pique,
Interlock, Rib, Honeycomb, Fleece, Jacquard, Flat back rib, Zigzag structure,
Pointelle, Mesh, etc. in 100% cotton, Cotton blends, Polyester, Tencel, Modal,
Micro modal, Bamboo, Silk, Soya, polyester, Lycras fabrics etc.
Different finishes such as Moisture management, RCC (Real Cool Cotton),
Teflon, Resin, Enzyme, Bio, Anti bacteria, UV, Breeze, Fragrance, Oxyrich,
Vitamin E, Liquid Stretch and many more are used for specific needs of
customers.

They also do all types of Garment dyeing & washing including Enzyme, Acid,
Stone, and distress wash for giving different looks to garments.

5
INFRASTRUCTURE
• Vertically integrated from Yarn spinning to Garments..
• Panel inspection, Mobile inspectors in line, Setting standards for
individual operations on each machine are few initiatives, which help us,
produce high quality garments.
• There is a strict system in place for records on broken needles, Metal
contamination prevention & Detection of in- line & Packed products.
• All sewing machines have latest auto trimmers & no loose cutters are
allowed on production floor. The placket & pocket making machines
produce fine quality products.
BRANDS
Maral offers one of the world’s most comprehensive and most enchanting
range of knitted products (T-shirts, Polo shirts, Rugby shirts, Henley shirts,
Hooded shirts, Jackets, Tank tops, Camisoles, Shorts, Pyjamas, Joggers, etc.)

PRODUCT DETAILS

MIXED MEDIA SHIRT

Fabric details:
KNIT: 100% Cotton; 210 Gms
WOVEN: 100% Cotton Canvas; 7 ounce

6
 STYLING DETAILS:
- Tailored knit collar.
- Knit 3-button CF placket with "X" box stitched reinforced bottom.
- 2 Patch chest pockets with 2-ply button closed flaps.
- Set-in short sleeves with a single turned hem.
- 2 woven vertical inset panels at front.
- Straight bottom single turned hem.

7
- Side vents reinforced with a woven rectangular woven patch "X" box stitched
at the top.

COMPONENTS/TRIM DETAILS:
- DTM thread for internal and external stitching
- Fusible interlining for collar, collar band, front placket, pocket flap and hem.
- Plastic collar stays at collar points.
- 4 DTM, 4-hole plastic 20L buttons (2 at CF placket, 1 at collar band and one
extra in plastic bag attached to care/joker label)
- DTM twill tape at side vents.

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS:
• Single/double needle topstitching
• All 2N edge stitching is set at 1/4" margin
• Knit 2-ply tailored collar joined to collar band with SN edge stitching is
affixed to the body with SN edge stitching.
• Knit 3 button interlined lapped CF placket, 2N egdestitching with
reinforced "X" box stitching at bottom. Upper placket (wearer's left) has
2 vertical and 1horizontal (at neck) rectangle buttonholes. Bottom
placket has 3 DTM plastic 20L buttons attached with "X" stitching.
• 2 woven vertical inset panels at front affixed to garment body with 2N
edge stitch.
• Set-in short sleeves, 2N edge stitched to body of garment at armhole.
• Single turned sleeve hem finished with a 2N bottom cover stitch.
• Straight bottom single turned hem finished with a 2N bottom cover stitch.
• Side vents finished with DTM twill tape.
• Top of vent is reinforced by "X" box stitching a woven rectangular patch
to the face of shell fabric.

8
 • 2 Square patch chest pockets with 2-ply button through flaps, pocket
hem and flap are interlined with a compatible non woven fusible before
being finished with a SN edge stitched and reinforced corners.
• Pocket has woven contrast trim which extends from pocket edge to 1/2"
below pocket flap.
• 2-ply pocket flap finished with SN edge stitching - outer ply is knit
fabrication and inner ply is contrast woven.
• Stitched to body before being turned and SN edge stitched with 1/4"
margin.

DETAILS OF FABRIC USED IN STYLE # 55132

DETAILS OF FABRIC USED (WOVEN)

TYPE WOVEN (CANVAS)
FIBRE CONTENT 100% COTTON
ENDS/PICKS ENDS - 48/INCH, PICKS - 42/ INCH

DETAILS OF FABRIC (KNITED)

TYPE KNITTED SINGLE JERSEY
FIBRE CONTENT 100% COTTON
FABRIC WEIGHT 200 GSM
WALES & COURSE WALES: 32 PER INCH
COURSE: 46 PER INCH
WEAVE PIQUET
COUNT 20s

DETAILS OF ACCESSORIES/ TRIMS USED

IN

9
 STYLE # 55132

S.NO ACCESSORIES/TRIMS USED REMARKS/SPECS

1 Kimble 3”- Flat White

2 Polybag Printed W Xl- 11” X 12” + 2” Outer Flap

3 Tissues Paper 15” X 10” – White

4 Barcode Stickers --

5 Carton Stickers --

6 Carton 19 7/8 Lx 12 1/8” (W) X 12 1/8” (H)

7 Carton Tape 4” Clear Tape

8 Blair Main Label --

9 Wash care S,M,L,Xl,2xl,3xl

10 Sewing Thread(DTM) Coats

11 Buttons 4 Holes,20 Lines

12 Button Pouch --

13 Fusing --

14 Mobilon Tape --

15 Plastic Collar Stays --

16 Twill Tape (DTM) --

10
 MEASUREMENT CHART STYLE # 55132
S.NO DESCRIPTION TOL(-) TOL(+) EVAL( LG
E)
1 FRONT BODY LENGTH FROM -3/8 3/8 30
HSP
2 ACROSS SHOULDER CURVED AH -1/2 ½ 20
3 ACROSS BACK 8” HSP CURVED -1/2 ½ 19
AH
4 SHOULDER SLOPE IL TO AH -1/4 ¼ 11/2
5 FORWARD SHOULDER HEIGHT -1/4 ¼ 0
TO SEAM
6 BACK YOKE HEIGHT CBN -1/4 ¼ 0
7 CHEST CIRC AT AH -1 1 48
8 SWEEP CIRC AT TOP OF -1 1 48
VENT/SLITS
9 SLIT/VENT HEIGHT -1/4 ¼ 3
10 SLEEVE LENGTH FROM AH -1/4 ¼ 11
SHORT
11 SLEEVE UNDERARM LENGTH -1/4 ¼ 0
FROM AH
12 SLEEVE HEM HEIGHT -1/8 1/8 1
13 ARMHOLE CIRC CURVED AH ON -1/2 ½ 23 ½
SEAM
14 SLEEVE OPENING CIRC SHORT -1/2 ½ 16 ½
15 NECK WIDTH SEAM TO SEAM AT -1/4 ¼ 7¼
HSP
16 FRONT NECK DROP HSP TO -1/4 ¼ 3½
SEAM
17 BACK NECK HIGH DROP HSP TO -1/4 ¼ 1
SEAM
18 COLLAR HEIGHT AT CBN -1/4 ¼ 1¾
19 COLLAR STAND HEIGHT AT CBN -1/8 1/8 1¼
20 COLLAR POINT LENGTH -1/8 1/8 1¼
21 CF PLACKET LENGTH -1/4 ¼ 6
22 CF PLACKET WIDTH -1/4 ¼ 1 3/8
23 POCKET HEIGHT WITH FLAP -1/4 ¼ 6
24 POCKET FLAP HEIGHT AT -1/4 ¼ 2
CENTRE
25 POCKET WIDTH AT TOP EDGE -3/8 3/8 5
26 TOP POCKET PLACEMENT FROM -1/4 ¼ 9½
HSP
27 TOP POCKET PLACEMENT FROM -1/4 ¼ 2

11
 CF

MANUFACTURING PROCESS
FLOW CHART OF MFG. PROCESSES

FABRIC & ACC. AVG.

SHIPPING
CALCULATION

FABRIC &
ACC.PURCHASE REPORT TO H.O.

FABRIC LENTERING &

CHECKING FINAL INSPECTION

CUTTING DOCKET ISSUE

PACKAGING

FABRIC ISSUE
PACKING

CUTTING
FINISHING

FUSING WASHING /
DRYCLEANING

TICKETING
SPOTTING

BUNDLING
Initial Checking

Final Checking
Metal Detector Machine

12
THREAD TRIMMING

ACCESSORIES ISSUE

SEWING
 FABRIC DEPARTMENT

FABRIC LENTERING

OVER VIEW CHECKING

INSPECTION

ARRANGE IN THE
RACKS

ISSUE FOR CUTTING

Fabric was received in the form of Rolls (woven) from the fabricator. The
knitted fabric was received in Tubular form with the following
details:

Name of fabric supplier

Name of export house

Date of dispatch

Fabric details

Colour

13
 STORAGE RECORD

Cloth stocks should be stored so as to avoid soiling or mechanical damage,

where possible at a standard temperature and humidity, so that
dimensional changes do not take place in store and there is no
danger of fungal attack.

The ends of rolls must be protected against the light and dirt if stocks are held
for longer duration of time. Care must be taken to avoid
distortion or damage during handling. Since most cloth arrives in
heavy bolts, mechanical handling not only reduces labour cost
but may also avoid damage as well.

HOW ARE FABRICS AND TRIMS STORED? (At MARAL OVERSEAS)

Fabric storage

After the fabric has been sourced and delivered it is checked by the storage
department to see if the exact quantity has arrived and if the
quality of the fabric needed is up to par. Fabric storage is done
according to the lots.

Fabric storage is done on the following:

• Racks

• Wooden palate

It is very necessary to arrange the fabric in the proper form and manner
because it makes the work and process easier and convenient.

14
Whenever a requirement is placed from cutting department, the fabric is issued
in exchange of a requisition slip and challan. Any leftover
fabric is again send to the fabric store which can be further used
for sampling or for re-cutting of defective pieces.

INSPECTION
Inspection in reference to quality control in the
apparel industry can be defined as the visual
examination or review of raw material (such as
fabric, buttons, zippers, sewing thread, trims etc) to
check if they meet the required quality parameters.
The main objective of inspection is the detection of
defects as early as possible in the manufacturing
process so that time and money are not wasted
later on in correcting the defect.

The system used in MARAL OVERSEAS was 4 point system. In this system
the flaws or affect are assigned a point- value based on the length of the defect
or the dimension of the hole.
4 point system: The fabric quality is
assessed on the number of defect point per
100 sq. yard. Those fabric rolls containing
more than 40 point per 100 sq. yards are
considered seconds.
After checking rolls of fabric (lot wise) by 4
point system rolls are labelled by stickering
basically called as RED LIGHT SYSTEM by
them:
• Rolls rejected by the checker were
placed red sticker on the roll.
• Rolls with few defects were labelled
with yellow sticker (on hold).

15
 • Rolls without any defect were labelled with green sticker which denoted
roll is of good quality and is ready for cutting.

TESTING OF GARMENT (style # 55132)

Following test have been performed on Garment:

1. Colour Fastness To Washing

2. Dimensional Change After Washing

3. Appearance After washing

CUTTINGFABRIC
DEPARTMENT
ISSUE

MARKER MAKING

LAYERING

CUTTING

ASSORTING

TICKETING

BUNDLING

CHECKING

16

PACKING IN
POLYBAG WITH BIN
CARD
 SPREADING OR LAYERING

It is the process of superposing lengths of the fabric on a spreading or a cutting

table.

SPREADING DONE AT MARAL OVERSEAS:

In our garment spreading was done manually.

After layering the fabric was allowed to relax for some time.
• Lay height was 3” - 4’’.

• average consumption per garment was 0.0335 gms (for knits)

• Lay length was 4 meters.
• There were 5 tables for layering and 20 helpers.
• The length of the table was 10 metres and the width of 2 tables was
60’’ and 3 tables were 48”.
• The speed of layering was 50 ‘palle’ in an hour.
• The total no. of layers was 110 layers.

• They were manually doing the spreading which was taking 2 hours.
• For cutting they were using straight knife with 7” length.

17
In cutting department, first Fabric was issued from the fabric department
through fabric issue challan. In Cutting department after receiving the fabric
cut order plan was made as shown:

Cut order plan:

Main Body Details:
Style No. # 55132

Fabric 100%cotton, single jersey, 210 GSM

Tubular /open

Open width 147 cm.

Garments components: Back/front/sleeve/placket/collar/cuff

Trims: woven patch on front, pocket & tabs

Canvas fabric Width: 143 cm

Size Ratio:

Colour S M L XL XXL 3XL Total

S.
No.

1. NAVY 28 84 140 144 72 48 516

2. WHEAT 28 84 140 144 72 48 516

3. TEAL 28 84 140 144 72 48 516

TOTAL 84 252 230 432 216 144 1548

18
Fabric Consumption:

Body Woven
Fabric Body fabric
req. Fabric required for Twill tape Twill tape
for req. pocket, 10 mm 10 mm for
Extra order for tabs & front for back back neck
Consumption Cuttin in order patch @ 50 neck tape tape & slit
per pc in Kgs g % Kgs in Mtrs cm per pc & slit @ 1 MTR

0.335 1% 174.6 565.6 258 NAVY 516

0.335 1% 174.6 565.6 258 WHEAT 516

0.335 1% 174.6 565.6 258 TEAL 516

523.8 1696.7 774 1548

Size cut ratio and marker utilization:

S.No Cutting Layer Length Cutable Marker
Combination (mtr.) Width(cm) Utilization

1. S(1)-M(1)- 4 mtr. 142.5 85.61%

XXL(1)-3XL(1)

2. M(3)-XXL(2)- 6 mtr 142.5 86.64%

3XL(1)

3. L(2)-XL(2) 4 mtr 142.5 85.11%

4. S-M-L-XL-XXL- 3 mtr 147 86.27%

3XL

19
 Cut Plan:
S M L XL 2XL 3XL

1. 84 252 420 432 216 144

84 84 84 84

REMAINING X 168 420 432 132 60

2. 168 420 432 132 60

60+60+60 60+60 60

REMAINING +12 12 X

3. 420 432

110+110 110+110

200 212

100+100 100+100

X 12

Then they cut XL and XXL for 12 pieces. And cut only 1% extra

CUTTING RECORDS

20
Separate cutting report was maintained which had details of each layer cut.
• They keep record of daily cutting and pieces issued to sewing
department.

BUNDLING AND TICKETING

Bundles consist of garment parts needed to complete a specific operation or
garment component. For example, an operation bundle for pocket setting might
include shirt fronts and pockets that are to be attached. Bundle sizes may
range from two to a hundred parts.

There were 3- 4 people assigned for bundling & Bundling speed was 200
pcs /hr.

The stickers specifies the: -

• Lot number

• Size

• Part-number i.e. the numbers allotted according to the assembly

sequence.

• All the parts of the same lot and size are tied into bundles containing 10-
15 garments.

• The bundles are also numbered specifying the sizes.

• Total number of pieces in the bundle.

After this, these bundles are sent to the production floor for stitching in
exchange of requisition slip.

21
 Sewing Department:

Bundle Distribution

Stitching Inline Inspection

End Line Inspection

Finishing Department

PRE-PRODUCTION PLANNING:
Often referred to as T&A (Time and Action) or Critical Path and arguably the
most important activity involving ensuring the various elements of materials,
samples/approvals and documentation are at the right place at the right
time to start actual production.

PRE PRODUCTION ACTIVITIES:

 T&A

 P.C.D

 Bill of Material

 Capacity planning

22
 TIME AND ACTION PLAN

 Target vs. Actual dates

 A map where you can see the deviances.

 Apply corrective actions to minimize the effects of deviance.

This is the time and action plan followed by MARAL OVERSEAS for mixed
media shirt.

23
Buyer’s Name Blair
Style # #55132
Knit Single Jersey

20s
200 GSM
7 Ounce
Woven
Fabrics Detail 100% Cotton
20 April
Ex. Factory
1548
Quantity
Fabric Req. App.
7 February
Order Detail By
12 February
K&P Release
15 February
Yarn In-House Date
19 February
Knitting Start Date
22 February
Knitting End Date
24 February
Fabric Dyeing / Washing Start
28 February
Fabric Dyeing / Washing End
4 March
Fabric In House Date (Knit)
Fabric In House Date (Woven) 6 March
Knit Down Submission NA
Knit Down Approval NA
Embellishments Indent Date 16 February

22 February
Fabric Approval Date
Sewing Emb.Received.Date 10 March
Packing Emb.Received.Date 10 March
Bulk Fabric Submit Date 28 February
Bulk Fabric Approval Date 7 March
Fit Sample Submit 16 February
Fit Sample Comments 23 February
2nd Fit Sample Submit 2 March
2nd Fit Sample Comments 9 March
Pp Sample Submit 26 March

Pp Approval 1 April
FPT Ok 3 April
GPT Ok 30 March
Cutting Start 6 April
Cutting End 24 8 April
Sewing Start 7 April
Sewing End 14april
Finishing Start 12 April
Finishing End 16 April
 BILL OF MATERIALS (BOM)

It is the term used to describe the raw materials, sub-assemblies, intermediate

assemblies, sub-components, components, parts and the quantities of each
needed to manufacture an end item (final product) . It may be used for
communication between manufacturing partners, or confined to a single
manufacturing plant.

 Gives the statement of requirement of raw materials.

 Purchase Indent

 Purchase order.

FABRICS

25
 Twill Tape
Extra 10 Mm For
Body Back
Consumption Cuttin Body Fabric
Per Pc In Kgs g% Woven Fabric Neck Tape
Fabric Req. Twill Tape & Slit @ 1
Req. For For Required For 10 Mm For
Pocket, Tabs MTR
Order In Order In Back Neck
Kgs Mtrs & Front Patch Tape & Slit
@ 50 Cm Per
Pc

0.335 1% 174.6 565.6 258 NAVY 516

0.335 1% 174.6 565.6 258 WHEAT 516

0.335 1% 174.6 565.6 258 TEAL 516

523.8 1696.7 774 1548

TRIMS

Actual Extra Final Quantity

780421 55132 PO-F24762

Polybag Printed (W X L - 10"X12" +
2" Outer flap) 1 1548 1571 1571
Fold Size - 11-1/2” x 9-3/4”

Tissue Paper (15"x10") White 1 1548 1571 1571

Barcode Stickers 1 1548 1625 1625

Carton sticker 1 SUPPLIED BY THE BUYER

Carton (19-7/8” (L) x 12-1/8” (W) x

12-1/8” (H)) 1 60 61 65
QUANTITY PER BOX SML - LGE: 28
QUANTITY PER BOX SIZES XLG -

26
 3XL: 24

10
Carton Tape (4" Clear tape) mt/carton 650 10.00 11

SEPARATOR 60 61 65

Transparent sticker 130 132 132

Blair Main Label 1 1548 1594 1594

MSW--004

Sewing thread I-4870 NAVY 00 154800 154800 387

WHEAT 04 154800 154800 387
TEAL 05 154800 154800 387

Collar Stays 2 1548 3096 3189

Buttons 516 3096 22

6 516 3096 22
516 3096 22

Button Pouch 1548 1571.22 1571

FUSING - Black 516 46.44 48.762 49

White 1032 103.2 108.36 108

Wash care
NAVY 00 S 28 29 50
M 84 87 100
L 140 144 160
XL 144 148 160
2XL 72 74 100
3XL 48 49 70

S 28 29 50
M 84 87 100
L 140 144 160
XL 144 148 160
2XL 72 74 100
3XL 48 49 70

27
 TEAL 05 S 28 29 50
M 84 87 100
L 140 144 160
XL 144 148 160
2XL 72 74 100
3XL 48 49 70

Production planning

Production planning is an integrative process of coordinating plant resources

with the demand for finished goods. Production planning may be defined as the
technique of foreseeing every step in a long series of separate operations,
each step to be taken at the right time and in the right place and each operation
to be performed in maximum efficiency. Production planning involves
coordinating plant capacity with style requirements, projected volume, and
shipping dates. Coordinating a plant’s resources and activities requires
teamwork and an integration of operating systems.

28
New technology provides the data and means for more accurate planning,
scheduling, and management of resources. As work is planned and scheduled,
production planners are expected to effectively utilize plant capacity, maintain
high productivity and balance work flow.

STRATEGIC IMPORTANCE OF THE PRODUCTION FUNCTION

• Effective production and operations management.

• Lower a firm’s costs of production.

• Boost the quality of its goods and services.

• Allow it to respond dependably to customer demands.

• Enable it to renew itself by providing new products

Routing
Under routing, the operations, their path and sequence are established. To
perform these operations the proper class of machines and personnel required
are also worked out. The main aim of routing is to determine the best and
cheapest sequence of operations and to ensure that this sequence is strictly
followed.

Scheduling

29
It means working out of time that should be required to perform each operation
and also the time necessary to perform the entire series as routed, making
allowances for all factors concerned. It mainly concerns with time element and
priorities of a job. Useful tools for scheduling include a Gantt chart and a
PERT (Program Evaluation and Review Technique) chart.

Master Schedule:

Scheduling usually starts with preparation of master schedule which is weekly

or monthly break-down of the production requirement for each product for a
definite time period, by having this as a running record of total production
requirements the entrepreneur is in better position to shift the production from
one product to another as per the changed production requirements. This
forms a base for all subsequent scheduling activities.

PRODUCTION PLANNING

Fabric in house

• Knit 04-03-09

• Woven 06-03-09

Layering 06-04-09

30
 Layer length 4 mtr

No of layers 110

Relaxation time 2 hour

No of table allotted 2

Stitching Start 7-04-09

SAM for stitching 33.80 minute

No of M/C per line 31

Production / line /day 279 Pcs.

Finishing and Packing start 12-04-09

Finishing and packing done simultaneously with production

Inspection and Dispatch 19-04-08

Shipment Date 26-04-2009

Capacity planning:
Capacity refers to the productive capability (output) of a plant, machine, or
work centre in a given period of time. Capacity is created from the availability of
resources such as machines, time (labour) space, and facilities that require
capital invested by the firm.

31
Capacity is frequently measured in units of output (no of garments or garment
parts) but may be expressed in terms of input (no of hours or days). When
output is used as a measure of capacity, the materials, processes, and product
must be the same overtime.

Many factors affect output capacity including variations in:

1) Space utilization and limitations

2) Equipment type
3) The size, skill, versatility
4) Productivity of the labour force.

CAPACITY CALCULATION
Total No. Working Hours = 8 Hours - 480 Min.

Total No. Machines = 536

Total Machine time per day = no. of machine x total no. of minutes/day

= 536 x 480

= 257280 min/day

Total time /month = total no. of minutes / day x no. of working days
/month

= 257280 x 26

= 6689280(on 100% efficiency)

Total time per month on 60% efficiency = 6689280 x 60/100 = 4013568

Standard minute value of garment = 33.80

Than, total productivity per month of garment = total no. of minute/

month/smv = 4013568 / 33.8 = 118745 pieces

32
Production per Day per Machine At 100% Efficiency= 480/33.80 = 14.20

Production per Day per Machine At 60% Efficiency = 14.20 X 60/100 = 8.52

Production per Day per Line = 8.52x 33 =281.16 Piece

Total No. Of Machine of Factory = 500

Production per Day of Factory = 500 X 8.52 = 4260 Piece

Production per Month of Factory = 4260 X 26 = 110760 Pieces

SMV Of Garment = 33.80 MIN.

MACHINE DETAILS WITH OPERATION

BULLETIN:

S. No. M/C DESCRIPTION QUANTITY

33
1 Single needle lock stitch 295

2 Over lock 120

3 Flat lock 19

4 Chain stitch 7

5 Button hole 5

6 Button Attach 5

7 Zig -Zag Lock Stitch 3

8 Bar-tack 4

9 Embroidery 1

10 Needle Detector 2

34
S.NO.. BREAK M/c ATTACHMENT/PRESSOR SAM
DOWN Type FOOT M/c MANUAL
1 Front Panel 5 T O/L Standard 1.000
Attach
2 Front Panel DNLS standard 1.500
Top Stitch
3 Pkt. Flap SNLS standard 1.500
Running
4 Pkt. Flap SNLS CR 1/32 1.500
Edge Stitch
5 Pkt. Panel SNLS CR1/32 1.000
Edge Stitch
& Mouth
Fold
6 Pkt. Manual Template 1.000
Pressing
7 Pkt. Attach Manual Pattern 0.750
Marking
8 Pkt. Attach SNLS CR 1/32 2.000
9 Pkt. Flap Att. SNLS standard 2.000
& Finish
10 Placket Manual Template 0.750
Pressing
11 Placket SNLS standard 0.750
Attach
12 Placket SNLS standard 2.000
Finish
13 Placket Box SNLS standard 1.500
Making
14 Collar Manual Pattern 0.750
Marking
15 Collar SNLS standard 1.000
Running
16 Collar Edge SNLS CR 1/32 0.830
Stitch
17 Collar Top SNLS standard 0.830
Stitch
18 Bottom Hem SNLS CR 1/4 0.660
Fold
19 Band Attach SNLS standard 1.000
at Collar
20 Collar Band SNLS CR 1/32 0.850
Edge Stitch
21 Main Label SNLS standard 0.850
Attach At
collar Band
22 Shoulder & 5 TO/L standard 0.930
Pkt panel
attach
23 Shoulder DNLS standard 0.750
Top Stitch 35
24 Collar Attach SNLS standard 1.000
25 Collar Finish SNLS CR1/32 1.000
26 Sleeve standard 1.000
Finish
 Assembly line balancing
• Objective of assembly line balancing is to minimize the imbalance
among workstations while trying to achieve a desired output rate.

• So either, one can minimize the number of workstations for a given

production rate or maximize the production rate for a given number of
workstations.

• Though typically carried out at the design stage of the assembly line,
line balancing is also required whenever there is a change in product
design and/or new product introduction.

Input for assembly line balancing:

1. A set of tasks to be performed and the time required to perform each
task

36
 2. The precedence relations among the tasks- that is, the sequence in
which tasks must be performed, and

3. The desired output rate or forecast of demand for the assembly line.

• The first two requirements can be obtained from the product design
documents

• The third one is specified by the management.

Example

• An activity consisting of three tasks: A, B and C.

 Task A is first, and takes 0.5 minutes

 Task B is next, and takes 0.3 minutes

 Task C is the last, and takes 0.2 minutes.

• Since, all the tasks must be performed to complete one part, total time
required to complete one part is

0.5+0.3+0.2 = 1 minute.

• Suppose that one worker performs all three tasks (sequentially).

• Then in an 8-hour shift, the worker could produce – 480 parts/day.

• Now suppose, three workers are assigned for the line, each performing
one of the tasks.

• The first operator can produce 120 parts per hour, since the task time is
0.5 min. Thus, a total of 960 parts/day.

• The second worker takes only 0.3 min to finish the tasks and hence can
produce 1,600 parts/day.

• Lastly, the third worker can produce 2,400 parts/day.

37
 • However, the second worker cannot produce 1,600 parts because the
first worker has a lower production rate. So the second worker is idle
some of the time waiting on components to arrive from the first operator.

• Same thing happens for the third worker.

• So the maximum output of this three-operator assembly line is 960

parts/day.

• That is, the workstation 1 performing task A is a bottleneck in the

process.

• Now suppose that two workers are assigned to the assembly line.

• The first operator performs task A; and the second operator performs
tasks B and C.

• Now, since each operator needs exactly 0.5 min to complete the
assigned duties, the line is said to be balanced and the production is
960 parts per day.

• Thus, we have achieved the same output (of 960 parts) using just two
operators.

Cycle time:
• The interval between successive outputs coming off the assembly line.

• In the previous example, if we use only one operator, the cycle time is 1
minute. One completed assembly per minute.

• If two workstations are used, the cycle time is 0.5 minutes.

• Finally, if three workstations are used, the cycle time is still 0.5 minutes.
Task A is the bottleneck. Thus, the line can produce only one assembly
every 0.5 minutes.

• The cycle time cannot be smaller than the largest operation time, nor
can it be larger than the sum of all operation times.

38
LINE BALANCING:

#Style No. 55132 SAM: 33.80 SPI S/L: 9-10 M/c: 31

SPI O/L: 12-13 Man Power: 35 Needle NO. 9

SAM of Machine = 30.55

Average SMV of Machine = total SMV/ total no. of operation

= 30.55/29

39
 = 1.05

Machine Required = Actual SAM/ Avg SAM

S.NO.. BREAKE SAM MACHINE MACHINE

DOWN REQUIRED ALLOTED

M/c MANUAL

1 Front Panel 1.000 0.95 1

Attach
2 Front Panel 1.500 1.42 1
Top Stitch
3 Pkt. Flap 1.500 1,42 1
Running
4 Pkt. Flap Edge 1.500 1.42 1
Stitch
5 Pkt. Pannel 1.000 0.95 1
Edge Stitch &
Mouth Fold
6 Pkt. Pressing 1.000

7 Pkt. Attach 0.750

Marking
8 Pkt. Attach 2.000 1.90 2

9 Pkt. Flap Att. & 2.000 1.90 2

Finish
10 Placket 0.750
Pressing
11 Placket Attach 0.750 0.71 1

12 Placket Finish 2.000 1.90 2

13 Placket Box 1.500 1.42 1

Making
14 Collar Marking 0.750

15 Collar Running 1.000 0.95 1

16 Collar Edge 0.830 0.79 1

Stitch
17 Collar Top 0.830 0.79 1
Stitch
18 Bottom Hem 0.660 0.628 1
Fold

40
19 Band Attach at 1.000 0.95 1
Collar
20 Collar Band 0.850 0.809 1
Edge Stitch
21 Main Label 0.850 0.809 1
Attach At collar
Band
22 Shoulder & Pkt 0.930 0.88 1
panel attach
23 Shoulder Top 0.750 0.71 1
Stitch
24 Collar Attach 1.000 0.95 1

25 Collar Finish 1.000 0.95 1

26 Sleeve Finish 1.000 0.95 1

27 Armhole Top 1.000 0.95 1

Stitch
28 Sleeve & Body 1.000 0.95 1
Bottom Fold
29 Side Attach 1.000 0.95 1

30 Slit Tuck 0.850 0.809 1

31 Twill Attach at 1.500 1.42 1

Slit
32 Slit Finish 1.000 0.95 1

33 Side patch 2.000 1.90 1

attach
30.55 3.25 30.085 32

MACHINERY MAINTENANCE:

Reasons for Machine Tool Maintenance -

(I) The objective of machine tool maintenance is to achieve minimum

breakdown and to keep them in good working condition at the lowest possible
cost.

41
(ii) Machine tools should be kept in such a condition which permits them to be
used at their optimum (profit making) capacity without any interruption or
hindrance.

(iii) Maintenance division of the factory ensures the availability of the machines
and services required by other sections of the factory for the performance of
their functions at optimum return on investment whether this investment be in
material, machinery or personnel.

Need For Machine Tool Maintenance -

(I) Machine tools are properly maintained so that they remain in working
condition at all the times.

(ii) Their accuracy does not deteriorate.

(iii) They manufacture the components most economically, for these machine
tools are inspected periodically against:

• Use of wrong or inadequate lubrication

• Change in level of the machine tools
• Wrong use and overloading of the machine tools
• Wear of slide ways, bearings and other components
• Dust, heat and humidity
• Vibration and Chatter
• Corrosion of some parts due to the use of wrong lubricants etc.

MAINTENANCE:

• Breakdown Maintenance
• Schedule Maintenance
• Preventive Maintenance

42
BREAKDOWN MAINTENANCE - Breakdown maintenance implies that
repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot perform its
normal function any longer, e.g., an electric motor of a machine tool will not
start, a belt is broken, etc.

Under such conditions, production department calls on the maintenance

department to rectify the defect. The maintenance department checks into the
fault and makes the necessary repairs.

After removing the fault, maintenance engineers do not attend the equipment
again until another failure or breakdown occurs. This type of maintenance may
be quite justified in small factories.

Causes of Equipment Breakdown -

• Failure to replace worn out parts.

• Lack of lubrication.
• Neglected cooling system.
• Indifference towards minor faults.
• External factors (such as too low or too high line voltage, wrong fuel,
etc.)
• Indifference towards equipment vibrations, unusual sounds coming out
of the rotating machinery, equipment getting too much heated up, etc.

Disadvantages of breakdown Maintenance -

• Breakdowns generally occur at importunate times. This leads to poor,

hurried maintenance and excessive delays in production.

43
 • Reduction of output.
• Faster plant deterioration.
• Increased chances of accidents and less safety to both workers and
machines.
• More spoilt material.
• Direct loss of profit.
• Breakdown maintenance practice cannot be employed for those plant
items which are regulated by statutory provisions, for example, cranes,
lifts, hoists and pressure vessels.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

Actions performed on a time- or machine-run-based schedule that detect, or

mitigate degradation of a component or system with the aim of sustaining or
extending its useful life through controlling degradation to an acceptable level.

By simply expending the necessary resources to conduct maintenance

activities intended by the equipment designer, equipment life is extended and
its reliability is increased.

Studies indicate that this savings can amount to as much as 12% to 18% on
the average. The success of preventive maintenance is entirely dependent on
the system laid down and the quality of people who operate it and therefore it
must be strictly controlled by supervision.

Objectives of Preventive Maintenance -

44
(I) To minimize the possibility of unanticipated production interruption or major
breakdown by locating or uncovering any condition which may lead to it.

(ii) To make machine tools always available and ready for use.

(iii) To maintain the optimum productive efficiency of the machine tools.

(iv) To maintain the operational accuracy of the machine tools.

(v) To reduce the work content of maintenance jobs.

(vi) To achieve maximum production at minimum repair cost.

(vii) To ensure safety of life and limb of the machine tool operators.

(viii) To maintain value of machine tools (by periodic inspections, repairs,

overhauls etc.)

Advantages of Preventive Maintenance:

• Requires less staff.

• Cost effective in many capital intensive processes.

• Flexibility allows for the adjustment of maintenance periodicity.

• Increased component life cycle.

• Energy savings.

• Reduced equipment or process failure.

• Estimated 12% to 18% cost savings over reactive maintenance program.

Disadvantages of Preventive Maintenance:

• Increased cost due to unplanned downtime of equipment.

• Increased labour cost, especially if overtime is needed.

• Cost involved with repair or replacement of equipment.

45
• Possible secondary equipment or process damage from equipment failure.

• Inefficient use of staff resources.

• Catastrophic failures still likely to occur.

• Labour intensive.

• Includes performance of unneeded maintenance.

• Potential for incidental damage to components in conducting unneeded

maintenance.

Scheduled Maintenance
Scheduled maintenance is a stitch in time procedure aimed at avoiding
breakdowns. Scheduled maintenance practice incorporates inspection,
lubrication, and repair of certain equipment which if neglected can result in
breakdown. Inspection, lubrication, servicing etc, of these equipments are
included in the predetermined schedule. Schedule maintenance practice is
generally followed for overhauling of machines.

46
MACHINE MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

The maintenance department is a very important supporting department to

the production as it assures product quality. The following reports were
prepared-

1. OVERHAUL MAINTENANCE
2. MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE
3. OILING AND GREASING

Oil specification: NEW DEFRIX OIL

TIME PERIOD FOR OILING OF M/C’S

SNLS: 1 month

F/L and O/L: 6 month

CHANGE OIL FILTERS AND OIL GASKETS

Change clogged oil filters and damaged gaskets.

NOTE: Filters and gaskets cannot be cleaned and re-used.

-Use recommended sealing bond while replacing filters and gasket areas
properly cleaned, to prevent leakage.

CHECK WEAR AND TEAR OF MAJOR PARTS

Check the abnormal sound in the machine due to wear and tear between
the major parts like main shafts, crank shafts, gears, bearings, bushes etc.,
etc.

47
 PARTS TO BE CHECKED:-

• NEEDLE BAR ALIGNMENT

• NEEDLE BAR UPPER & LOWER BUSH
• HORIZONTAL & VERTICAL GEARS
• UPPER AND LOWER SHAFT ALIGNMENT
• FEEDDOG CRANK & CRANK SHAFT ALIGNMENT
• UPPER AND LOWER SHAFT BEARINGS

 CHECK WEAR AND TEAR OF INTERNAL TIMING

BELTS
Check wear and tear of internal timing belts in flat lock, double needle,
multi needle chain stitch, feed of the arm etc, etc.,

 CHECK THE CONDITION OF MOTOR PULLEY V- BELTS, LEATHER

BELTS, FLAT BELTS
Check the conditions like wear and tear in the belt, length, stretch ability
and durability of the belt.

LUBRICATION:

The day to day responsibility for the maintenance of machine tools is in the
hands of the operator, and provided he uses it properly, his next greatest
contribution is to ensure that it receives an adequate supply of lubrication

48
On modern machine tools various units such as headstocks are provided with
automatic lubrication by means of a pump with provision for a continuous
filtering system and an indicator to observe the circulation of the oil. Other parts
of machine, however, depend on daily attention of the operator and it is fairly
general practice to issue a chart for his guidance.

APPAREL PRODUCTION SYSTEMS:

An apparel production system is an integration of materials handling,
production processes, personnel, and equipment that directs work flow and
generates finished products.

In sewing department the process can be done by using one of these lines
depending upon the size of order and skills required to do a job. Commonly
used production systems to mass produce apparel are as follows:

1. PROGRESSIVE BUNDLE SYSTEM:

2. UNIT PRODUCTION SYSTEM
3. MODULAR PRODUCTION SYSTEM
4. SECTIONAL SYSTEM
5. ONE PIECE SYSTEM/ BODY LINE SYSTEM

6. ETON SYSTEM

MARAL OVERSEAS follows the Assembly Line / (PBS)

production system.

This traditional method of manufacturing has been widely adopted in the

Apparel Industry for the past 3 decades. Parts of various components after

49
being cut in the Cutting Room are tied up in bundles and distributed out to the
Sewing Section. This is called the Progressive Bundle System (PBS).

This method requires bundle to be transported to individual sewing operators.

Sometimes, factory porters/helpers are hired to do this transporting work. But
usually, the operators have to stop and leave their workspace to look for the
bundles. A PBS may require a high volume of work in progress (WIP) because
of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer of back up work that
is needed to ensure a continuous work flow for all operators.

The PBS may be used with a skill center or line layout depending on the order
that bundles are advanced through production. Each style has different
processing requirements and thus different routing.

Routing identifies the basic operations, sequence of production, and the work
centers where operations are performed.

The progressive bundle system is driven by cost efficiency for individual

operations. The operators perform the same operation on a continuing basis
which allows them to increase their speed and productivity.

Operators work at different rates, thus large quantities of work in progress

(WIP) can build up ahead of some operations. Slow processing, absenteeism
and equipment failure causes major bottlenecks within the system.

Bottlenecks within the assembly line system:

1. Large quantities of WIP leads to longer throughput time, poor quality

concealed by bundles, large inventory, extra handling and difficulty in
controlling inventory.

2. Large quantities of WIP make it difficult to track specific orders and

provide flexibility for customers.

50
Benefits of assembly line system:

1. The success of bundle system depends on how the system is set up and
used in the plant. Small bundles allow faster throughput unless there are
bottlenecks and extensive waiting between operations.

2. This system allow better utilization of specialized machines, as output

from one special purpose automated machine may be able to supply
several operators for the next operations.

WORK FLOW IN SEWING DEPARTMENT

1. The bundles are brought in from the cutting dept.
2. Every group is given the bundles and the parts are distributed to the
operators as per there jobs.
3. The production per worker or group is slow in the beginning but once the
operators are set the production increases.
4. The operators complete there operations and forward the garment
further.
5. Operator who finishes the last operation puts a sticker on a garment
which consists a no. of self identification.
6. While production takes place there are inline checkers with there tables,
who keep on checking the finished garments.
7. They check each and every garment. If they are satisfied they will pass
the garment for further operation, if they find any defect, they send the
garment to that operator who made that mistake.
8. Thorough analysis is done to find whether the problem is occurring due
to the fault of the machine or negligence of operator.
9. If the fault is in the machine then immediately the maintenance in charge
is called for rectification of problem.

51
 10. In case of the operator’s mistake he is asked to do that operation again.
11. After the line set up the first 50 pieces are stitched to check the working
of machines.
12. Once the production flows the pieces coming out from all the lines are
checked randomly by final checker.
13. While working if the operator needs any material for eg. Thread, needle
etc. He reports the supervisor who makes the requisition slips and
forwards it to the stores.

COMPLIANCES

Apart from the procedures, a company has to follow other regulations too. They
too indirectly help in marinating the quality. These set of rules and regulations
are called COMPLIANCES/ CODE OF CONDUCT (COC).

There are two organizations which look after the international compliance
issues;
• BSCI (Business social compliance initiative, Brussels )
• ILO (International Labour Organization, UN)

In Maral Overseas, they follow the compliances issued by ILO.

ELEMENTS OF COMPLIANCE:

• LEGAL COMPLIANCE

52
 • FREEDOM OF ASSOCIATION
• COMPENSATION
• WORKING HOURS
• PROHIBITION OF DISCRIMINATION
• WORK PLACE SAFETY
• PROHIBITION OF CHILD LABOUR
• PROHIBITION OF FORCED LABOUR
• ENVIRONMENT SAFETY
• FRISKING SHOULD NOT BE DONE

COMPLIANCE CAN BE DIVIDED UNDER 3 HEADS:

1) LEGAL
2) INFRASTRUCTURE
3) SOCIAL

LEGAL:
Law of Land is approved by the municipal corporation of the area where the
unit has been set up.

Compensation : Compensation is paid to the laborers and is outside the

wages. This payment is made in lieu of accident which could have

53
 happened in the production unit and has caused injury to the laborer .it is
also paid if a laborer is laid off with no fault of his own. .

Prohibition of child labor: Children below 18 years are strictly prohibited.

To ensure this every operator has to submit the concerning documents
while joining. They have also put up a board outside their main gate
warning against underage people seeking work.

Prohibition of forced labor: Forced labor is prohibited everywhere in

India. A single complaint against a person can land him in prison. All the
operators are paid in cash and there is no force in there choice of working
there.

Prohibition of discrimination: Discrimination on the bases of cast, creed,

color or sex is a legal crime and is punishable under Indian law.

INFRASTRUCTURE:

• Building should be safe and strong.

• Electrical wires should be properly fixed and concealed.
• Electrical point should be properly concealed.

SOCIAL:

Social compliance includes all the things which are for the welfare of workers; it
is also for looking after the working condition. For e.g.

54
 Wages: wages should be given on time, dates of the salary should be fixed
and it should be given on the fixed day itself. Wages are given according to the
skill of the workers and this should be beforehand told to worker.

Overtime charges and details are also clearly told to the workers. Under the
act of 1948, a worker can do overtime maximum
• 2 hours/day
• 12 hours/week
• 48 hours/month
• 52 hours/ 3months

Overtime is paid double the amount of his salary. It means that he gets the
salary of 2 hours if he works for an hour.

 BONUS: under the act of 1965, bonus is given to the worker on the
occasion of Diwali.

 Leave/ holidays: under the act of 1948, article 52 states that weekly
holiday along with national and festival holidays should be given to the
workers.
 Earn leave (E.L): a worker who works for minimum of 240 days are
allowed to take an E.L after every 20 days i.e. 15 E.L’s in the whole
year.

 Maternity leave: under the act of 1961 a female worker can take leave
for 12 weeks.

55
 Place for lunch: a proper canteen and place for lunch should be
provided to the workers. Time should be fixed for lunch in the factory.

Environment Safety

The following steps are taken in to keep the environment clean, Healthy and
safe:-

1. Through horticulture.
2. By providing Aqua guard water filters and water coolers for drinking
water.
3. By planting flowers, green plants and green trees.
4. Hygienic food is provided through a contractor in the factory
canteen.
5. ETP plant is installed to clean polluted water from laundry
department.
 Health-first aid: they provide this facility to the worker. They provide A.
B.B.S. doctor for it.

 Crèche: according to the rule, there should be a crèche wherever there

are minimum 30 women working.

 Presence of doctors (full time/ part time): according to the standard

there should be for
 50 workers – first aid
 500 workers or more – dispensary
 500 – Welfare officer
 1000 – Safety officer

56
 Nursing home/hospital has to be declared: nearest hospital and
nursing home should be marked and all the workers of the company
should be aware of that particular hospital so that everybody knows that
where should they approach in case of emergency. The way of these
nearest hospitals should be known to each and every employee of the
company.

 Gratuity: under the act of 1972, those workers who have completed the
term of 5years of their job would be getting the benefit of gratuity. The
workers get gratuity of 15 days after completing their job of 5 years.

 Exit marks: exit marks should be properly indicated in English as well

as in the local language so that the workers can also understand it.

 Evacuation plan: incase of fire, there should be proper way and plan to
vacate the factory easily without any accidents. This plan should be
taught to the workers and everyone should be aware of this.

 Safety yellow mark line: This line is very essential for the safety of
operators. This yellow mark line indicates the separation of machines to
the movable free area. Adequate space should be given in between the
machines (lines) so that operator should feel comfortable while doing his
job which will result in good quality and also in case of emergency one
can easily move through the path.

 Fire fighting system :

57
 1) Fire extinguisher: 1meter by 1 meter space should be given around
fire extinguisher in the factory; it should be easily accessible without any
hindrance. Yellow line and black line should be around the extinguisher.
Workers should also be given coaching to use it.

2) Fire alarm: fire alarm should be there on each floor of the factory.
Small box with glass cover should be there and it should ring as soon as
the glass breaks. A hammer should also be chained there in this box to
break the glass in case of emergency.

3) Fire hydrant: At the entrance 100-150 meter red pipe should be

placed and should be connected to the source of water in the factory.

• Mask: operator should be provided with mask whenever he is on the

machine or he is doing the operation which involves cotton fluff.
• Machine guards
• Protection from electricity and chemicals.

Broken Needle and Auxiliary Sewing Tool Policy

Metal Detector Policy:

• All orders to be passed through a metal detection system to confirm that

no foreign metal objects are included in the garment.
• Inspection quantity should be 100% of order quantity.
• Metal detection should be the final process performed before item is
placed in the cart
• Metal detection should take place AFTER all work; including repairs has
been completed, but prior to sealing the polybag.
• Metal detection machine should be calibrated at the start of each shift.
• Metal detection certificate must be completed for each shipment.

58
 • Metal detection certificate must be submitted to Columbia QC during
final inspection.
• Columbia QC will perform random metal detection audit during final
inspection.

Claims:

• Columbia Sportswear incurs costs when product is received that is not

built to specification. A metal object in garments is one example of
product not built to specification.
• It is a policy to issue chargeback to our suppliers in the event that
problems with the product are determined to be caused by the supplier’s
negligence.
• Product found to contain metal objects will be classified as 5th quality
and un-saleable.
• The chargeback amount will be calculated to recover any or all of the
following costs that result from foreign metal objects negligently included
in our product.
 Audit Costs including labour and materials.
 Discounted FOB as outlined in the B-grade policy.
 Difference in duty paid at full FOB and the discounted FOB.
 Any chargeback or settlements against Columbia Sportswear.
 Penalty fee of $100 per occurrence.

SOME SUGGESTIONS FOR IMPROVING THE WORKING

CONDITIONS AND EFFECTIVE FUNCTIONING OF THE
FACTORY

• There should be less material handling operations.

59
• Since layout plays an important role hence there should be increased
layout flexibility.
• Garment planning should be done in such a way that it should have an
easy assembly, low waste and high quality.
• There should be proper and improved displays and controls to minimize
mistakes.
• There should be proper machine productivity check this can help in
increasing the productivity as well as efficiency.
• It is very important that the workstation should be provided with proper
sunlight and ventilation.
• There should be no naked light bulbs or tubes in view of the worker
when looking at the working area. There was tube all along the cutting
room.
• They can eliminate extra task by performing a number of task in one
operation by using special multi-task machines.
• It is very important that task and operations which do not add value to
the product should be identified for example: delay cause by machine
breakdown, incomplete raw material, unnecessary transportation of
materials from one operation to another etc causes lot of problem in the
production completion on time.
• There should be an easy maintenance, transport and replacement of the
operations while stitching this will help in increasing the efficiency.
• And the most factors important for the factory are to ensure that the
work-in-progress is under control by the supervisors etc.
• For better results in swing and for good quality it is important to provide
training to the operators hence training should be given before starting
with any new operation.

60
 • There should be a proper intervention of absenteeism, machine
breakdown, problem with raw material etc by supervisor as these
problems can lead to problem in the quality and late production.
• Another very important aspect are the worker as they are the one who
produce garment hence it is important to have their involvement in the
process of changes as it can increase flexibility and quality in
production.
• For better and improved quality it very important to maintain all the
reports and records properly and they should be properly checked by
the head of the departments.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT
To ensure that the final packed garment is perfect in all respects, Maral
overseas have their own washing plant. Finishing of garment
entails making it ready or the final steps for preparation for use
of the garment. The finishing department consists of procedures
such as:

Thread trimming,
Washing,
Spot/Stain removal,
Pressing

It is the last process of manufacturing. After the garment is stitched it comes to

the finishing department for checking. The no of machines which were there in
the finishing department was as follows:-

MACHINE EQUIPMENT

61
S.NO. Type of Machine No. of Machine

1. Pressing Machine 12

2. Thread Sucker Machine 2

3. Spotting Gun 6

4 Lock stitch machine(for alteration) 2

PACKING DEPARTMENT
Checking

Label Attachment

• Folding

Poly Bag Packing

•

•
Blister Bag Packing

Carton Packing

Carton Labelling

62
Carton weighing

Final Inspection According AQL 2.5

MACHINES REQUIRED IN THE PACKING DEPARTMENT:
1) Strap Machine
2) Cello tape dispenser
3) Metal detector machine.
After the packaging is complete the goods are dispatched to the destination
specified by the buyer.

63
 DEPARTMENT WISE LAYOUTS:

PLANT LAYOUT is the special arrangement and configuration of

departments, work stations, and equipment used in the conversion process.
Layout of an apparel production plant directs the flow of materials and finished
goods from start to completion and integrates the material handling and
production systems.

Layout affects production capacity, productivity, processing time, cost,

utilization of equipments and safety.

A good layout has the flexibility to be changed to meet requirements of the

product line, delivery schedules and anticipated volume.

PLANT LAYOUT is the Arrangement of equipment and facilities to achieve

quickest and smoothest production at the least cost. The facilities include
receiving, manufacturing, shipping departments, inspection, maintenance, tool
rooms, employee amenities etc.

FEATURES OF A PROPERLY LAID OUT PLANT

► Smooth and rapid movement of materials from RM stage to finished

product stage
► The movement is generally in forward direction
► The materials do not criss-cross or go backward and forward for further
operations
► Production bottlenecks and delays are few
► Materials handling costs are reduced

64
OBJECTIVES OF A GOOD LAYOUT

► Minimize material handling cost

► Minimize congestion, bottlenecks
► Minimize accidents
► Use available space efficiently, effectively
► Provide ease of supervision
► Allow ease of maintenance
► Provide for future expansion
► Better working conditions – safety, health, comfort

65
66
 Sewing floor
No. of
Machine Machine Dimension(LXB)

Sewing m/c 170 3.5' X1.8'

Inspection table 15 3' X 3'

Sorting Table 5 2.5' X 3'

Ironing Table 10 72" X 24"

Racks 5 2' X 20'

Finished garment table 2 3' X 6'

CUTTING
Cutting table 2 12 m X 1.8 m

Straight knife 3

Band knife 1 108' X 60 '

Fusing machine 1 48" X 45 "

Ticketing machine 2 -

Recutting table 1 4' X 4'

Inspection table for cut component 1 3' X 4'

Basket 4 -

Table(tkt & bnd) 2 3' X 4'

End cutter 4 -

Die Cutter 1

67
 STORE
Fabric racks 15 6mX4m

Fabric Inspection machine 1 84' X 36'

Table & chairs 2 4' X 2'

Pallets

Weighing machine 1 2' X 2'

Trim rack small 4 3.33X6.66

Trim rack big 1 27.92X10.23

FINISHING ROOM
Washing machine - 2.13 m X 1.22 m

Tumble dryer - 1.07 m X 1.22 m

Hydro extractor - 0.91m(dia)

Ironing table 8 72" X 24"

Thread suction 1 3' X 4'

Stain removing table 1 3' X 3'

Button holing machine 5 3.5' X1.8'

Button riveting machine 5 3.5' X1.8'

Boiler 1

Inspection table 6 3' X 4'

PACKING
Table for folding & Packing 6 4' X 4'

AQL table 1 3' X 4'

Bins 10 -

Needle detection machine 1 3' X 4'

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 Carton packing machines

CAD ROOM
System 4 15" X 17"

Digitiser 1 5.5 ' X 3 '

Plotter 1 7' X 4'

SAMPLING
Cutting table 1 2' X 3'

pattern making table 1 4' X 3'

Grading table 1 4' X 3'

sewing machine 10 3.5' X1.8'

Ironing table 1 72" X 24"

Inspection table 1 3' X 3'

Mini Boiler 1

Dimension of articles:

Fan 4"

Tube Light 13.32"

Height of light from ground7 feet

Toilet sheet 1.66"*.999"

Office Table 2.66"*7.77"

Chair .99"*1.332"

Aisle distance 4.5 feet

Distance between machines 2.5 feet

69
 CUTTING
CUTTING is the preproduction process of separating (sectioning, carving,
severing) a spread into the garment parts that are of the precise
size and shape of the pattern pieces on the marker. The cutting
process may also involve transferring marks and notches from
the marker to garment parts to assist operators in sewing.
Chopping or sectioning a spread into blocks of piece goods may
precede precision cutting of individual pattern shapes.

Cutting contributes to the quality, efficiency and costs of subsequent operations

including handling, fusing and sewing.

Different kind of cutting equipments include:

Stationary cutters

Band knives

Die cutting

Servo cutters etc.

70
 Straight Knife

It consists of a base plate, usually on roller for ease of movement, a stand

carrying a straight vertical blade with varying edge characteristics and an
electric motor above it, a handle for the cutter to direct the blade and a
sharpening device. The base plate on its roller slider under the glazed paper
which is spread below the bottom ply of fabric in the lay.

Two kinds of power are required to operate a straight knife. Motor power drives
the reciprocating blade and operator power drives the knife through the lay.

Advantages: It is most common means of cutting lays because it is versatile,

portable, cheaper than a band knife, more accurate on curves than a round
knife, relatively reliable and easy to maintain.

Straight knife specification

• The standard cutting heights for st.
knife machines are:

• 4”, 5”, 6”, 7”, 8”, 9” and up to 13”.

• The motor determines the cutting

power of the cutting machine. Most st.-
knife cutting machines come in 1/3,
1/4, or ½ hp with speeds of 3500 or
1750rpm.

• Blade cooling systems are optional

auxiliaries. They are not necessary for
all cutting machines

Disadvantages Of straight knife

71
• Many st.-knife blades tend to wear out faster at the lower end of the
blade.

• The lower end of a straight blade gets more wear and tear than the
upper part because the lower end cuts in every spread, whereas the top
part cuts only in those spreads high enough to reach it.

Rotary cutting machines

• The basic difference between the rotary and straight machines is the
blade shape and blade thrust. The rotary cutting machine has a circular
knife whose edge rotates counterclockwise into the superposed plies as
the machine is propelled laterally into the spread.

• This cuts the fabric with one way thrust of the blade edge, whereas the
st. knife cuts with a two way thrust, up and down.

• The cutting capacity of rotary machines is governed by knife diameter,

motor horse power and motor speed.

• -Standard rotary machines are made with the following blade diameter:
2 1/2”, 3”, 3 ½”, 4”, 5”, 5 ½”, 6”, 7”, 8” and 12”.

72
Advantage: It is a fast machine, excellent for cutting straight lines or gradual
curves.

Disadvantage: It is difficult for a circular blade to negotiate a tight curve,

such as an arm hole.

Band knife machines

• Band knife blades are narrower than straight-knife blades.

• This permits more precise perpendicular cutting on small intricate

curves and angles.

• The turning of the block on the narrower blade disrupts the superposed
plies less than the wider blade of a turning st. knife in the same block.

• Tables usually have an air floatation system.

• The fabric is either pulled back or pushed into the cutting blade.

Advantages: Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting

accuracy is required. They are used more in men's wear than in women’s wear
as they are often used to cut large garment parts, such as large panels of
jackets and overcoats.

73
CUTTING DEPARTMENT

FABRIC ISSUE

MARKER MAKING

LAYERING

CUTTING

ASSORTING

TICKETING

BUNDLING

CHECKING

74
PACKING IN
POLYBAG WITH
BIN CARD
In cutting department, first Fabric was issued from the fabric department
through Fabric Issue Challan.

FABRIC ISSUE CHALLAN HAD THE FOLLOWING DETAILS:

Sales Order No. :

Run Date :

Time :

STYLE

Fabric Description:

S. Fabric Issue Roll Actual Roll

No. Line No. Fin. Quantity
Code Colou Size
Width
r In Mtr.

Line Total ………......

Cutting Dept. (Receiving qty :_______)

In Cutting department after receiving the fabric cut order plan was made
according to:

75
 • Quantity
• No. of Machines
• Machine Capacity
• Table Length

CUTTING DEPARTMENT - MARAL

OVERSEAS

The equipments used were hand sheers, straight knife, band knife, iron
weight, fusing machines, clamps, and stickering machines.
Below are the details of the equipments:

MACHINE SPECIFICATION

Sr. No. Type of Machine No. Of Machines

1. Straight Knife Cutter 7

2. Band Knife Cutter 2

3. Fusing machine 3

4. Computerized Cutter 1

5. Spreader 2

6 Drill machine 1

7 Cutting tables 5

Total 22

Cutting table height: 2.5 feet

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 Cutting table width: 60 inches and 48’’

Cutting table length: 10 mtrs

No. of stickering table: 2 rows

Total number of employees in cutting department: 20 people

Spreading and layering was done manually.

Cutting was done by straight knife and band knife.

MARKER MAKING:
A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for the sizes
of a specific style that are to be cut from a single spread. Marker making is the
process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specific
style, fabric, and distribution of sizes.

Computerisation greatly improves accuracy increases control of variables, and

reduces time required for making markers. Production patterns that have been
developed and graded on a CAD system are ready to be called up and placed
on a marker based on cutting orders.

MARKER PLANNING

Marker planning is defined as efficient layout of the patterns in such a way that
there is minimum fabric wastage.

REQUIREMENTS FOR MARKER PLANNING:

• Aligning the fabric as per the grain line.

• Design characteristic of the finished garment. e.g.-using half-set patterns

for exactly symmetric designs/garments or full set pattern

• Marking and spreading mode of the fabric (depends on the symmetry of

the fabric design/garment design)

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There are 3 types of marker planning:
Manual
Paper making
Computer

Maximum Marker Utilization-

= area of patterns in the marker plan / total area of
the marker x100%

(Marker utilization may be calculated by a

Planimeter and it depends on fabric characteristic
and pattern piece characteristic.)

Thumb rule for increasing marker utilization are:

1. Widening the width of the marker.

2. Interlocking more sizes and parts.

3. Using non sectional marker more than sectional marker

Efficiency of the marker = covered area / total area X 100

First the large pieces are laid and then smaller ones are fitted.

78
79
 MARKING MODES:

Orientation of pattern pieces within a marker is called marker mode. The

symmetry of pattern pieces and fabric determines the appropriate marker mode
for a particular style.

Marker modes can be of three types:

NAP EITHER WAY (N/E/W): with symmetric, non directional fabrics, pattern
pieces can be placed on a marker lying in either direction, up or down.

NAP ONE WAY (N/O/W): with directional fabrics such as napped fabrics, knits,
uneven plaids, or fabrics with one way design, the orientation of pattern pieces
is extremely important to the consistency and quality of the product. Directional
fabrics require that all pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one
direction.

NAP UP AND DOWN (N/U/D): all the pattern pieces of one size to be placed
in one direction and another size placed in opposite direction

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In MARAL OVERSEAS, the marker mode followed for our product (mixed
media shirt) was

SPREADING OR LAYERING

It is the process of superposing lengths of the fabric on a spreading or a cutting

table.

IN MARAL OVERSEAS:
Spreading was done manually,

CUTTING RECORDS

Separate cutting report was maintained which had details of each layer cut.

S.NO. Garment pattern Marker Mode

1 Asymmetric N/O/W
(single jersey)

2. Symmetric N/O/W

(cotton canvas)

It also included remarks.

81
 • They kept record of daily cutting and pieces issued to sewing
department.

SPREADING DONE AT MARAL OVERSEAS:

In

our garment spreading was done manually.

After layering the fabric was allowed to relax for some time.
• Lay height was 3 - 4’’

• The average consumption per garment was 0.335 grams.

• Lay length was 4 meters
• There were 5 tables for layering and 20 helpers.
• The length of the table was 10 mtrs and the width of 2 tables was 60’’
and 3 tables were 48”.
• The speed of layering was 50 ‘palle’ in an hour.
• The total no of layers were 110 layers.
• They were manually doing the spreading which was taking 2 hours.
• For cutting they were using straight knife with 7” length

Spreading modes:

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Spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid out for
cutting.

Two factors are considered in determining the appropriate spreading mode:

• Direction of fabric face

• Direction of fabric nap

DIRECTION OF FABRIC FACE- the fabric face may be positioned in

two ways.

Face to face (f/f):

F/F spreading may be continuous or the piece cut and the roll turned at the
end of each ply. Often symmetric, non- directional fabrics are spread
continuously, which places alternate plies face-to-face or back-to-back. This
spreading is faster and therefore less costly, as fabric is laid down
continuously as the spreader moves up and down the table.

Face one way (f/o/w):

F/O/W spreads are more time consuming and expensive because fabric
must be cut at each end of the spread and the new end repositioned. If a
rotating turn table is used to turn the fabric roll 180 degrees at the end of
each ply, the fabric can be spread from both ends of the table without a
wasted trip. This is particularly helpful when spreading prints.

DIRECTION OF FABRIC NAP-

Fabrics that are asymmetric or directional because of structure or finish

require special treatment. Symmetric, non-directional fabrics allow flexibility
for spreading. These fabrics can be spread face-to-face with the nap
running both up and down the spread. This spreading mode is called nap

83
 up and down (N/U/D) .This type of fabric can also be spread face-one-way
with the nap running up and down.

Garment cut from asymmetric, directional fabric must have the fabric nap
facing the same direction on all pieces in the garment; otherwise garment
parts will appear to be of different shades. This spreading mode is called as
nap-one way (N/O/W).

In MARAL OVERSEAS, the spreading mode followed for our product (mixed
media shirt) was

s.no. Garment pattern Spreading Mode

1 Asymmetric F/O/W, N/O/W

(single jersey)

2. Symmetric F/O/W. N/O/W

(cotton canvas)

CUT ORDER PLANNING:

84
It is the process that seeks to minimize the total production cost through
planning and management of production processes. Cutting done by size wise,
three sizes cut together to increase the marker efficiency.

Cut order planning involves the following responsibilities:

1. Examining incoming orders and piece goods availability.

2. Determining volume, size ratio, width and sectioning procedures for
marker making and spreading.
3. Determining whether there marker is available or new marker is needed
to be made.
4. Developing instruction for optimum marker making and fabric utilization.
5. Releasing order for marker making, spreading and cutting

It determines how many markers are needed, how many of each size should
be in each marker, and the no of ply that will be cut from each marker. The
most efficient ratio is often 1:2:2:1.

Factors affecting cut order plan:

• Sizes in the order.

• Colors in the order.

• Maximum and minimum number of sizes in the marker.

• Maximum lay length.

• Maximum ply height.

• Usable cloth width.

• Cost of the fabric

85
There are two factors which are consider to prepare cut order plan

Production capacity

The input planning of a product is depending on its out put. Cut order
plan is prepared according to the production per day. Cutting per day is
done according to the stitching of garments per day.

M/c limitation

M/c limitation is also one of the factors which affect the cut order plan.
Because we cut only 2/3 rd length of total length of straight knife blade.

Cut order plan:

Main Body Details:

Style No. # 55132

Fabric 100%cotton, single jersey, 210 GSM

Tubular /open

Open width 147 cm.

Garments components: Back/front/sleeve/placket/collar/cuff

Trims: woven patch on front, pocket & tabs

Canvas fabric Width: 143 cm

86
Size Ratio:

Colour S M L XL XXL 3XL Total

S.
No.

1. NAVY 28 84 140 144 72 48 516

2. WHEAT 28 84 140 144 72 48 516

3. TEAL 28 84 140 144 72 48 516

TOTAL 84 252 230 432 216 144 1548

Fabric Consumption:

Body Woven
Fabric Body fabric
req. Fabric required for Twill tape Twill tape
for req. pocket, 10 mm 10 mm for
Extra order for tabs & front for back back neck
Consumption Cuttin in order patch @ 50 neck tape tape & slit
per pc in Kgs g % Kgs in Mtrs cm per pc & slit @ 1 MTR

0.335 1% 174.6 565.6 258 NAVY 516

0.335 1% 174.6 565.6 258 WHEAT 516

0.335 1% 174.6 565.6 258 TEAL 516

523.8 1696.7 774 1548

87
Size cut ratio and marker utilization:
S.No Cutting Layer Length Cutable Marker
Combination (mtr.) Width(cm) Utilization

1. S(1)-M(1)- 4 mtr. 142.5 85.61%

XXL(1)-3XL(1)

2. M(3)-XXL(2)- 6 mtr 142.5 86.64%

3XL(1)

3. L/2-XL- 4 mtr 142.5 85.11%

4. S-M-L-XL-XXL- 3 mtr 147 86.27%

3XL

Cut Plan:
S M L XL 2XL 3XL

1. 84 252 420 432 216 144

84 84 84 84

REMAINING X 168 420 432 132 60

2. 168 420 432 132 60

60+60+60 60+60 60

REMAINING +12 12 X

3. 420 432

110+110 110+110

88
 200 212

100+100 100+100

X 12

Then they cut XL and XXL for 12 pieces. And cut only 1% extra

CUTTING QUALITY:
Accuracy is probably the most important factor affecting the cutting operation.
Quality of cutting has great impact on the quality of the
assembly processes that follow. Manufacturers want to
accomplish high quality output from the cutting process while
operating at high speed, reducing fabric waste and minimizing
requirements for operator skill.

• Throughout cutting there was a permanent Q.C who was keeping a

check on the cutting quality.

• More importance was given on notch cutting.

• Dye lot numbers are given to each layer cut, to keep track of lots cut at
the packing stage, if needed.

• Each dye lot is to be cut in ratio to maintain colour consistency.

• Each layer cut, is checked for cutting consistency and records are
maintained

• Marker mode correct as per the fabric and garment

• Spreading mode correct as per the fabric and garment

89
 • Grain line properly maintained

• Pattern and cut fabric properly matching

• Frayed edges-blade problem

• notches and drill marks properly visible

• All component parts of the garment are laid parallel to the warp (length)
of fabric unless style warrants others positioning of parts. .
Each layer edge is checked for unacceptable skew / torque.

CUTTING RECORDS

Separate cutting report was maintained which had details of each layer cut.

It also included remarks.

They kept record of daily cutting and pieces issued to sewing department

STICKERING
After cutting the stickers are put to trace and stitch
the panels.

Stickering is done because of following reasons:

To identify right and wrong hand side of the fabric

To locate missing parts

To identify panels

BUNDLING AND TICKETING

Bundle ticket system (B.T.S) is a tool to measure individual operator’s
performance and efficiency. The operator in the sewing line works on a bundle

90
and pastes a ticket office operation on every bundle change. The supervisor
takes an hourly score of that operator by counting the number of tickets in that
hour. The ticket has got the name of the operation, S.M.V, bundle number,
style number (K&P).

B.T.S can help the in line and end line examiner to find the operators producing
defects by tracing the bundle number on his ticket.

The stickers specifies the: -

• Lot number

• Size

• Part-number i.e. the numbers allotted according to the assembly

sequence.

• All the parts of the same lot and size are tied into bundles containing 10-
15 garments.

• The bundles also numbered specifying the sizes.

• Total number of pieces in the bundle.

After this these bundles are sent to the production floor for stitching in
exchange of requisition slip.

METHOD:
All the operators working in the sewing line in a bundle system pastes their
ticket on a bundle change. At the in line and the end line the defect producing
operator can be traced out on the basis of the bundle ticket for that bundle. So
the auditor and the examiner can easily find out the operator and suggest
corrective action.

• 3- 4 people were assigned for bundling

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 • Bundling speed was 200 pcs /hr

FUSING
In this T-Shirt Fusible interlining was used for collar, collar band, front placket,
pocket flap and hem.
For fusing they were using continuous fusing
machine at a

Temperature : 1100c,

Time : 5-6 min.

Pressure : 40 N

NEW TECHNOLOGIES FOR FUSING

V-AST LOY UP STACKER

After fusing, the fused parts are transferable with the cooling belt to
transferable belt.

The numbers and width of the lanes can be planned individually within the total
working width.

Small rollers hold the finish parts as they enter and in order to avoid folding and
creasing.

All lanes walk independently from each other

ensuring that the highest operations can be
achieved on each lane separately.

92
 Work study:

Work study is a generic term for those techniques, particularly method study
and work measurement, which is used in the examination of human work in all
its contexts, and which lead systematically to the investigation of all the factors
which affect the efficiency & economy of the situation being reviewed, in order
to effect improvement.

Main aim of work study is to enhance productivity.

WORK STUDY ANALYSIS

WORK STUDY

WORK
METHOD STUDY
MEASUREMENT

RECORD SEEK BEST

TIME STUDY SYNTHETICS
TO COMPARE METHOD

93
METHOD STUDY
It is the analyzing of work & suggesting alternative to improve work & to repair
it and come out of good & fast results.

Method study is the systematic recording & critical examination of existing and
proposed ways of doing work, as a means of developing & applying easier &
more effective methods & reducing costs. The function of this study is to
determine the equipment to working condition and work method which will
enable the worker to produce a maximum no. of units/unit time with a given
expenditure of human energy

This is done to increase productivity and hence, quality.

METHOD STUDY STEPS:

 It is everybody’s concern and recommendation should be taken from

everyone right from the operator to the manager.

 Sequence of improvement:

Examination ----analysis---discussion and test

TIME STUDY:

94
Time study is used to determine the time taken by a qualified, properly
trained experienced person working at a normal pace to do a specified task.

It is to estimate the amount of production the worker should produce with a

given work method & expenditure of human energy during a given period of
time under given working condition.

USE OF TIME STUDY:

1. Helps in planning of work and scheduling.

2. Gives us a base for wage planning

3. Helps us in determining the std cost of production

Time study is used to determine the time (standard time) taken by a

qualified, properly trained experienced person working at a normal place to
do a specific work.

It is to estimate the amount of production the worker should produce with a

given work method and expenditure of human energy during a given period
of time under given working conditions.

ATTRIBUTES TO TIME STUDY:

For any operation, there is

• Elemental breakups of operations: every operation should be

judiciously divided into elemental breakdown with definite break points

95
 • Rating of operator: Rating is that process during which the time study
analyst compares the performance (speed or tempo) of the operator
under observation with the observers own concept of normal
performance.

In American usage the term “grading” is often used with the same usage as
“rating”. The person who rate must be licensed operator from ILO
(International labor organization).

• Allowance: Allowance consists of personal and fatigue time and delay

time. Personal and fatigue time is the time taken by an operator after
every 5-6 cycles and is only a break or rest or relaxation after close
concentration. Going to the washrooms/toilets are also included in it.
Delay allowance is the time taken only in machine operation due to the
complexity of the machinery and the level of maintenance. Needle
changing/bobbin refilling operations are typical examples of delay
allowance. it is expressed as a percentage of m/c time. Allowance is
expressed as a percentage of basic time. for garment industry it is
approx.14%

TYPICAL MACHINE DELAY ALLOWANCES

 Single needle lockstitch-9%

 Twin needle lockstitch-14%

 Three thread overlock-7%

 four thread overlock-9%

 Five thread overlock-11%

96
 TYPES OF ELEMENTS:

 Repetitive: ‘Pick up and position at needle’ – Most repetitive elements

takes about the same time on each occasion that they occur.

 Occasional : ‘ Bundle Handling’ - Although these do not occur in every

work cycle they are part of the job and may occur at regular intervals

 Constant: These elements always have the same basic time.

 Manual: This refers to the parts of the job for which the time spent
machining is not significant.

 Machine: This is opposite to manual, and it is best to arrange the

breakpoints so that the distinction is clearly made.

 Ineffective time

 It is essential, in preparing for a study, to set aside one column for

activities which do not form part of the work. They may be time spent in
allowance to personal needs, which are covered by allowances.

Standard minutes
‘Standard time’ is the average for one cycle of an operation that we would
measure over a typical day if we had:

• A skilled operative
• Adequate incentive to call forth the operatives’ best efforts;
• Plenty of suitable work;
• The workplace and the machinery for which the standard time was
specified;
• Time allowed for the operative’s personal needs and to overcome
fatigue;

97
Standard time calculation:
Basic time = (Observed rate X Observed time) / standard rating)

CONCLUSION

In this project we have gone through the manufacturing process.

We have learnt how the garment is manufactured step by step. The
role of each department from fabric in house to finishing and then
finally dispatch. We saw what all problems are being faced by the
manufacturing department and then how they overcome the
problems.

98
After completing this project, we gained in-depth knowledge on
production of a garment and its production planning understanding
of production at every stage.

We tried to understand various problems that arise at every stage

and how they can be rectified to keep the quality of garment intact
and also the maximum utilization of available resources with the aim
of achieving maximum profit.

99
.

100