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WITH MORE THAN

Natural Wonders
Indian Villages
Historic Sites
Scenic Routes
Guide Maps
Public Parks
Minerals
Animals
Birds
Trees
Flowers
First in a series of

GOLDEN REGIONAL GUIDES

THE AMERICAN SOUTHWEST

IN PREPARATION:

THE AMERICAN NORTHWEST

THE AMERICAN SOUTHEAST

These books ava i lable in two editions:


L i m p Bound $1 .00 De luxe C l oth $ 1 .9.5

BlOOlOO
A GUIDE TO THE WIDE OPEN SPACES

by
N AT T N . D O DG E
Regional Naturalist, National Park Service

and
HERBERT S . Z I M, Ph.D.
Professor of Edu cation, U n iversity o f Illinois

I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y
ARCH A N D M I RI A M HURF ORD

A GOLDEN REGIONAL GUIDE

SIMON AND SCHUSTER NEW YORK


FOREWORD

Everyone knows where the Southwest is, but n o two peo


p l e a g ree as to what it includes. This book, the fi rst of the
Go lden Reg i o n a l Guides, presents to the vacationer, trav
e ler, or i n terested reader some of the many facets of this
a p pea l in g land of deserts, mou ntains, people, places, a n d
events-the Southwest. T h e b o o k i s a g u i d e t o t h e a n i mate
a n d i n a n i mate features of the region, with e m phasis on
those things m ost v isitors ca n see a n d do. I t incl udes sig ht
seeing suggestions, trave l i n g d irections, pre h istory, h is
tory, natura l h istory, I n d i a n lore, and sou rces of a dditio n a l
information. It is a n introduction t o t h e Southwest-one, w e
hope, that w i l l tem pt y o u t o explore further.
Ma ny people have helped i n gathering and che cking
the information in this book. The a uthors express their
gratef u l t h a n ks to all, espec ia l ly to Herbert Evison , Sa l l ie
Van Va lkenburg, H u g h Miller, Ben n ett Ga le, Myrl Wa l ker,
and Erik Reed of the N ation a l Park Service; and to Stan
ley Stubbs, Ma rjory lambert, a n d Bertha D utton o f t h e
laboratory o f Anthropo logy, Santa Fe. O u r s pecia l
thanks a r e d u e to Don a l d Hoffmeister, Hobart S mith, Ira
Gabrielson, A l exan der Martin, Ray mond Ca rlson, Ray E .
Pond, W i l l i a m Ca rr, a n d the staff o f t h e Museu m o f N e w
Mexico. T h e a rtists, Arch a n d Miriam H u rford, h a ve ma de
a rich g r a phic contribution.
N.N.D.
H.S.Z.

Copyright 1955 by Simon and Sc huster, Inc., and Artists and Writers Guild, Inc. All
rights reserved, including t he right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.
Designed and produced by The Sandpiper Press and Artists and Writers Guild, Inc.

h :d d ci = :. R n : f k f
ri t
" d in h - - er op 0 P Y u
b i o h l c ef r o/ o N
Publis he simultaneously in Canada by The Musson Book Company, Ltd., Toronto.

2
CONTENTS

M E E T THE SOUTHWEST: Its c limate, g eo g r a p hy,


and major a ttra ctio n s page 4

T O U R I N G T H E SOUTHWEST: H o w to p l a n you r
trip; w h a t to ta ke, do, a n d see 8

I N DIANS: Ancie n t a n d mode r n ; where a n d h o w


t h e y live; t h e i r a rts a n d c rafts 17

EXPLORERS O F T H E SO UTHWEST: A c h r o n o l -
ogy a n d a m a p of early routes 40

THE M O D E R N SOUTHWEST: Its people, cities,


a n d i n d u stries, a n d their deve l o p ment 44

THE LAN D A N D ITS L I F E Z O N E S: The effects of


elevation o n c limate, p l a n ts, a nima ls 50

B I R DS: C o m m o n Southweste rn species; w h a t t h ey


e at , w h e re they live 53

LIZARDS A N D SNAKES: How to recognize t h e


h a r m less a n d t h e poiso n o u s 60

INSECTS: A few of the c o m m o n ones everybody


should know 68

MAMMAL S Y O U MAY ME ET: W h e re they l ive,


their food, and inte restin g h a bits 71

PLANTS OF M O U N T A I N , M E SA, A N D DESERT:


Trees, s h ru bs, and flowers, with a specia l section
o n cactuses 77

GEOLOG I CA L STORY OF THE SOUTHWEST:


The rocks, minera ls, and fossils 1 OS

PLACES TO SEE A N D THINGS TO DO: N a tio n a l


a n d state pa rks, n a t u r a l features, prehisto ric
ruins, I ndia n vil l a g es, modern a ctivities 120

I N DE X
MEET T H E SOUTHWEST

T H E C O U NTRY The Southwest is a region without def


inite boundaries. Aridity is its principal over-a l l charac
teristic. But the region offers amazing contrasts and d iver
sity of cli mate, geography, and people. Its 465,000 sq .
m i. i nvolve nine states and incl ude such superlatives as
the l owest land, the biggest canyon, the highest mountain,
the driest deserts, the hottest va lley, the richest mines, and
the o ldest towns in the United States. The Southwest is big.
But it is a lso friend ly, hospitable, fascinating to l ive in
full of pleasa nt surprises, enough for a l ifetime.
THE PEOPL E Newcomers have been drifting into the
Southwest for 25,000 yea rs, and the tide is undiminished.
According to the 1 930 Census, the region had then a
popu lation of 1 ,568,200. By 1 950 the n umber had risen
to 2,575,250. These figures do not incl ude the h u ndreds of
thousands of summer tourists and winter vacationers, who
come for the c lear air, sunshine, and unspoiled scenery.
4 THE LAN D A N D THE PEOPLE
Mt. Whitney, Calif., 14,495
Mt. E l b e rt, Colo., 14,431
Mt. Massive, Colo., 14,4 18
Mt. Harvard, Colo., 14,399
Mt. Bla nca, Colo., 14,390
La Plata Peak, Colo., 14,340

LAND FORMS Except for the ea stern p l a i n s porti o n ,


there is prob a b l y n o p a r t o f the Southwest f r o m w hic h
mountains c a n not be seen on a c l e a r day. Mou nta ins rise
from desert lowlands and from hig her plateaus. Much of
the Grea t Basin Desert is l ocated o n p la tea u l a n d s at ele
vations of 3,000 to 6,000 ft. A wide ton g u e of the Rocky
Mounta i n s e xten d s dee p into the Southwest. Many of the
low mounta i n ranges to the south a r e as m u c h desert a s
the lowlands that surround the m . Other, hig her mountains
a re green forested islands in a "se a " of desert. The map
outlines the major topog r a p hic a reas of t he Southwest.
C L IMAT E in this land is dry, warm, and breezy. A c l ear
atmosphere, abundant su nshine, and low humidity a re
typica l . A n n u a l precipitation (rain and snow) varies from
1 to 6 in. in the deserts to 30 to 35 in. in the mou ntains.
Much of the moisture fa lls as spotty but heavy sum mer
thundershowers or as slow winter soakers. Temperatures
genera lly are moderate but va ry with latitude, a l titude,
and other factors. The low south and west parts of the
region a re hot and dry, the centra l platea u lands warm
and dry, and the mountains cool and m oderately m oist.
Nights a re cool. Winter temperatures a re cool to cold,
depending u pon location. Prevailing winds are from the
southwest. "Dusters" are common, but tornadoes are prac
tica lly unknown.
CL IMAT IC DATA

Avg. Jan. Avg. Ju l y Avg. A n n u a l


E levation,
C ity Tem p ., Temp., Rainfa l l ,
ft.
deg. F. deg. F . inches
Del Rio, Tex. 948 5 1 .9 84.7 1 8.58
Lubbock, Tex. .......... 3 , 1 95 38. 8 79.3 1 8 .89
El Paso, Tex . ........ ...........
. 3,71 0 43.4 8 1 .3 7.83
Amari llo, Tex. ................ 3 ,672 35.3 77.8 21.12
Dodge C i ty, Kan. . .. . 2 ,509 30.3 79.9 20.51
Pueblo, Colo. .............. 4,690 29.4 74.9 1 1 .87
A l a mosa, Colo. .....7,53 1 1 6.9 64.1 6.23
Grand J u nction, Colo . .. . 4,583 24.0 78.2 9.06
Raton, N. Mex. . .. .....6,666 26.2 68.6 1 5.42
Roswe l l , N . Mex . ............ 3 ,600 39.6 79.0 1 2 .07
A lbuquerque, N. Mex . .. 4,943 33.7 79.0 8.68
Winslow, Ariz. . ..
. 4,856 32.4 77.2 7.83
Phoe n i x , Ariz. .. ........ 1 ,083 49.7 90. 1 7. 1 2
Flagstaff, Ariz. ...... ....... 6,894 25.3 65.2 1 8 .47
Yuma, Ariz. 1 50 55.3 94.6 3.39
Blanding, Utah .............. .. 6,075 26.6 72.3 1 2 .77
Mi lford, Utah ............... .4,962 23. 8 74.0 8.44
Ely, Nev. .......... 6,000 23. 0 68.4 1 0.52
Las Vegas, Nev. ........ 2,033 44.2 90.5 4.35
Tonopah, Nev. ..... ........ 6 090 30. 1 74.6 4.81
Death Va l ley, C a l if. 1 52 52.0 1 0 1 .8 2.1 7

In the South west, temperature variations have been recorded from above
1 30f. i n summer in Death Va l ley to below -50 F. i n the high mountain
v a l leys of souther n C olorado i n winter.

6
LASTING IMPRESSIONS Despite the b i g n ess of t h e
Southwest, l itt le t h i n g s-sig hts, s o u n d s , and s m e l l s -often
create the most lasting i m pressions. Here a re som e :
Strings o f sca r l et c h i l i drying a g a inst adobe wa l ls.
G o l d e n aspens mantling a mou nta i n 's s h o u l ders.
Lithe relaxation of Navajos outside a tra d i n g post.
Awkwa rd speed of a fl eeing roa d r u n n e r .
Ma ssive th u n derhead dragging i t s braids of ra i n .
I m m o b i l ity o f t u m b l eweeds b a n ked a g a i nst a fence.
L i n e of resigned a utos waiting out a flash fl ood.
S i n g le-fi l e strin g of steers a pproa c h i n g a waterh o l e .
Ec hoes a n d s i l e n ces in a g reat c l iff-dwe l l i n g r u i n .
B a w l i n g of restless cattle a t a ro u n d u p .
Heady a r o m a of c a m pfi re coffee.
Ca refree boys "in the raw" s p l a s h i n g i n a stock ta n k .
Sq u e a l o f a fi g hti n g , b u c k i n g h orse at a rodeo.
Wa i l of a coyote -a n d yapping of others-a t n i g ht.
Drum throbs a n d s h r i l l c h a n t of a n I n d i a n dance.
Musty odor of creosote b u s h after rain.
Bray of a dista nt w i l d burro j ust after s u n rise.
Harsh sme l l of singed flesh a t a bra n d i n g corra l .
S u d d e n pelting r u s h o f a s u m m e r t h u n d e rstorm.
U n b e l ieva b l e immensity of the Grand Canyon.
Juicin ess of thick steak broiled over mesq uite coa ls.
Sta rs that you c a n reach from your s l e e p i n g bag.
Splash a n d tug of a mounta i n trout h itti n g your fly.
Ta ng of e n c h i l a d a s smothered i n chili sauce.
T H E LAN D A N D T H E P E O PL E 7
---------------- :r------------ r--- -- -----?------r -
"

NEVADA

---
----
-
- enP;pe
KEY ...

-Highways
----
--- ... -Time Zones
Cities
A National Monuments
National Parks
MEXIC O
,..... Dams
Continental Divide

For other features see maps on pages 1819 and 4243.

T H E M O D E R N SOUTHWEST
0 30 60 90 120

One inch equals about 120 miles


PLAN YOUR T R I P Beg in by
studying hig hway m a ps and pam
phlets obta ined from rail roads,
bus and air lines, trave l bureaus,
chambers of commerce, and state
Check Your Route a n d federa l agencies (see p. 1 20).
Auto travelers may obtain tour
aid service from the larger gasoline compan ies. Much of
the Southwest is accessible by paved roads, a n d modern
accommodations are available in most towns. During the
heavy sum mer travel season, try to make overnight reser
vations in advance or stop early to get a better choice.
Obey safety ru les and highway signs. If you p u l l a tra i ler,
find out what h i l ls are ahead.
Off the main roads are Indian villages, spectacular
scenery, c h a l lenging fishing streams. Be careful never to
stop for the n ight in the bottom of a wash or g u l ly; flash
floods g ive n o warning. Keep your gas ta n k at l east half
full. When off mapped roads, inq uire at each opportun ity
regarding your route and the condition of the road ahead.
If you plan to travel back roads, come we l l equi pped. Use
the c heck l ists below.
Car Needs Your Needs
Good spare tire Ca nteen of water C a n ned foods
Good jack Gasoline la ntern Matches
Basic tool kit Flashlight and Fi rst-a id kit
Reserve water for rad iator batteries Snakebite kit
Reserve gasoline Kettle or cooking kit Pocket knife
Ax a n d shovel Gasoline stove Lip-cha p stick
Tire p u m p and patches "Wh ite" gasol i n e for S u n g lasses
Spare fa n belt stove a n d la ntern S u n b u r n lotion
Tire chains Frying pan Compass
Towrope Sturdy hiking shoes Ball of strin g
Wide-brimmed h a t B l a n kets or sleep i n g
Tarpa u l i n bag
10 T O U R I NG
LEAVE T H E COU NTRY G R E E N A N D C L EAN It's
good travel man ners to enjoy flowers-an d leave them
for others. Leave all wild a n imals a lone; and keep an
eye open for rattlesna kes and scorpions. Don't deface
signs, bui l d ings, or natura l features. Keep a l l trash in a
paper bag until you drop it into a refuse conta iner or
bury it. Always leave a CLEAN camp a n d a DEAD fire.
I n d ians a re a. proud though friendly people; don't stare
or point at them, enter their homes uninvited, or haggle
over prices. If you want souvenirs, buy something typica l
from them or at a trading post.
H e l p travelers in distress but avoid h itchhikers.
Before starting a h ike remember that dista nces in the
Southwest may fool you. Objects a ppear closer than they
are, because of the clean, dry air.
If your car gets stuck i n sand, reduce the pressure in
your tires to ha lf for better traction.
Nationa l parks a n d monuments are always "open," a l
though accommodations may sometimes be c l osed. Cam p
ing locations are provided in most nationa l forests, in
many state and national parks and monuments, and in
some state and federal wildlife refuges. Locate com p
grounds in adva nce by referring to p. 1 20 and to THE
CAMPGROUND GUIDE (R. 0. K lotz, Cam pgrounds U n l i m ited,
Blue Ra pids, Kan., 1 955).
Be carefu.l with fire!
TOURING 11
D U D E RANC H ES AND G H OST TOWNS Guest or
"dude" ra nches offer a u n iq ue, i nform a l vacation in "back
country" close to nature. Some are cattle ranches that
take in a few paying g uests; others may be swa n k resorts
with swimming pools, cockta i l bars, a n d flashy "cowboys"
h ired as voca lists. Dude ranches specia l ize i n horseback
riding, outdoor cooking, and informal rodeos i n which
g uests may participate. Write to chambers of commerce
in Southwest cities for information .
Ghost towns usua l l y a r e m i n i n g camps that have
"played o ut." In some, a few families remain, with per
haps a genera l store and fi l ling station. Others a re com
pletely deserted, in ruins, and difficult to find. Check
loca lly for directions and conditions of roads.
Some ghost towns and dates they were founded:
Southeast California: Panamint City 1 86 1 , C a lico 1 8 8 1 , Bodie 1 859.
Southeast Nevada: Tonopah 1 864, Search light 1 897, Nelson 1 860,
B u llfrog 1 905, Rhyol ite 1 904, Goldfield 1 902, E ldorado C a nyon
1 875, 81ackhorse 1 900, A l u n ite, Aurora 1 860.
Southern Colorado: Silverton 1 873, C reede 1 889, Lake C ity 1 874,
Eureka 1 876, A n imas Forks 1 875, Wh ite C ross 1 876, Alpine 1 872,
St. E l mos 1 879, Romley 1 870, H a ncock 1 880, Sherman 1 877, C u n
n i n g h a m Gu lch 1 874, Victor 1 89 1 , Burrows Park 1 873.
New Mexico: Kelly 1 880, Golden 1 839, Dolores 1 828, S a n Pedro
1 832, White O a ks 1 850, Hil lsboro 1 877, Mogollon 1889, Elizabeth
1 868, Kingston 1 880, Tyrone, Gold D ust 1 879, Sha kespeare.
Arizona: Charleston 1 879,. Contention City 1 879, Tubac 1 752, Gila
C ity 1 858, Oatman 1 900, Tombsto n e 1 877, Jerome 1 870, Octave
1 862, H a rdyville 1 856, Sta nton 1 863, Weaver 1 862, Goldroad 1 863,
Silver King 1 875, Wh ite H i l l s 1 892, McMillanville 1 876, P i n a l 1 875.
For more about g h ost towns read: The Bonanza Trail, Muriel S. Wolle,
I nd i a n a U n iv. Press, Bloomington, 1 953.
12 TO U R I N G
CALENDAR OF EVENTS
(Verify dates local ly.)

January-J an. 6, Buffalo, Deer, and Eagle Dances at Rio Grande


p ueblos with installation of pueblo governors. Day of Epiphany, Three
Kings Feast in Spanish-American villages. J an. 23, dances, both plazas,
San lldefonso, N . Mex. Bean, Buffa lo, and social d ances, Hopi villages .
February-Open g o l f championsh ips, Phoenix a n d Tucson, Ariz. Sp ring
tra ining, south ern Arizona, for m a jor-leag ue b a l l teams. C a ctus show,
Desert Botanical Ga rdens, Tempe, Ariz. Silver Spur Rodeo, Yuma, Ariz.;
fiesta d e los Vaqueros (rodeo ) . Tucson. Plains Indian dances, Taos,
N. Mex. Deer and Buffalo dances at Rio Grande p u e b l os.
March-Stock show, rodeo, San Angelo and El Paso, Tex. Dons' trek
to Superstition Mts. and World's C h a m p ionship Rodeo, Phoenix; Raw
hide Roundup, Mesa, Ariz. Indian dances, Keresan p u e blos, N . Mex.
March-April -Easter sunrise services, Grand C anyon and Death Val
ley, C a lif. Yaq u i Indian ceremonials, Pascua, near Tucson.
April-Rodeo, Douglas, Ariz.; Ride of Desert C a b a l l e ros, Wickenburg,
Ariz. festival of Fine Arts, Tucson. Annual Playday, Wh ite Sands,
N . Mex.; Desert Cavalcade, C a l exico, Calif. Many Green Corn Dances.
May-May 5, C inco de Mayo (Mexican Independence Day) celebra
tions, both sides internationa l boundary. Ute Bear Dance, Ignacio,
Colo. Ceremonial dances, Taos Pueblo. Corn Dance, Coch iti Pueblo.
May 1 5, feast of San Ysidro in m any Spanish-American towns.
June-Cotton C a rnival, Lubbock, Tex . New Mex. Musical festival,
Raton. Dances a t Taos, San J u an, Santa C lara, San l l defonso, and
Coch iti Pueblos, N. Mex. Ute Sun Dance, Towaoc, Colo.
Ju ly-Frontier Days, P rescott, Ariz.; Annual Rodeo, Silver City, N . Mex.
Apache Maidens' Fiesta, Mesca l ero, N . Mex. All-Tribes Pow-Wow and
Hopi Craftsman Exhibit, Flagstaff, Ariz. Rodeo d e Santa Fe, N . Mex.
July 24, Mormon Pioneer Day celebrations throughout Uta h .
August-Inte r-Tribal Ind ian Ceremonials, Gallup, N . Mex. Hopi Snake
Dances, Outboard Regatta, Lake Mead, Ariz.-Nev. Apache d ances and
rodeo, Ruidoso, N . Mex. Corn Dances at several N . Mex. pueblos.
September-La bor Day week-end Fiesta, Santa Fe. New Mexico State
Fair, A l b u q u e rque. Ind ian Rodeo, Winslow, Ariz.; Pima Fiesta and
Rodeo, Sacaton, Ariz. Ha rvest dances at Rio Grande p u e b l os.
October-N o va j o Fair and Rodeo, Sh iprock, N . Mex. Apache Autumn
Festival, San C a rlos, Ariz. Papaga Arts and Crafts Exhib it, Sells, Ariz.
Oct. 3 1 -Nov. 2, ceremonials at most Ria Grande p u eblos.
November-Arizona State fair, Phoenix. H a rvest dances in various
Hopi vill ages, Ariz. Encam pm ent of Death Valley 49' e rs, C a l ifornia.
November-December-Famous Shalako ceremonials, Zuni Pueblo,
N. Mex. Navajo Mt. Way and Night Way ceremonies an reservation.
December-Dec. 1 2, N u estro Senora de Guadalupe ceremonials in
many Spanis h -American villages. Dec. 24-30, C h ristmas lig hting and
processions at many Spanish-American villages and Indian pueblos.
TOURING 13
DEATH
VALLEY

.__. lweek tour


-- 2week tour (summer)
- 2week tour (winter)
FOUR TOU R S
- 3week tour
........ __ "
e Cities
0 -.....
National Parks and Monuments --
N.P. \.
\
O N E-W EE K T OUR This a utomobile tour through the
heart of the Southwest may be taken in any season; Apri l
or October is most comfortable. You can work out other
routes from the n ext two pages or pp. 1 20 - 1 56. Study
maps and l iterature each evening.

F i rst Day: Tou r C a rlsbad Cave r n s ( 4 hou rs) . O n to El Paso,


Tex., and spend the eve n i n g a c ross the border in J uarez,
Mexico.
Second Day: It's a day's d rive o n U . S . 80 to Tu cson, Ariz., b u t
you'll h a ve t i m e to s e e the open-pit m i n e a t B isbee a n d sto p
at o l d Tom bstone.
Third Day: See S a n Xavier Mission a n d the Arizo na-Sonora
Dese rt M u se u m near Tucso n . Sto p at Casa Grande N at. Mon .
a n d Desert Bota n ica l G a rdens n e a r Tempe. N i g ht i n P h o e n ix .
Fou rth Day: T a k e the Oak C re e k C a n y o n b r a n c h of U . S . 89,
visiti n g the J e ro m e M i n e Muse u m , Tu zigoot R u i n , a n d Monte
z u m a Castle C l iff Dwe l l i n g o n the way to F l a gstaff, A riz.

14 TOURING
Fifth Day: On to G ra n d Canyon, via W i l l ia m s . Ta ke the West
R i m D rive b efore l u nch, l e a v i ng by way of Desert View a n d
C a m e ro n . Y o u ca n sto p a t a cou p l e o f tra d i n g posts, see
S u n set C rate r, and sti l l reach Winslow i n time for s u p p e r .
Sixth Day: T a k e U . S . H i g hway 2 6 0 from H o l b rook, cut thro u g h
Petrified Fo rest a n d over U . S . 66 t h ro u g h Ga l l u p, I n d i a n
trad ing center, a n d o n to A l b u q u e r q u e . You can reach S a n t a
Fe t h at n ig ht.
Seventh Day: T h e re is much to see i n Sa nta Fe, b u t you
should leave before n o o n . A brief side trip to Sa n l ldefonso
Pueblo will get you to Taos i n time f o r a s h o rt b u t i n te rest i n g
afte r n o o n t h e r e .
TWO W E E KS I N SUMMER (genera l l y north)
One day: F ro m A l b u q ue r q u e to Santa Fe, thence to Taos P u e b l o .
Two days: G re a t S a n d Du nes Nat. Mo n .; Mesa Verde N at. Pa rk.
Two days: Arches Nat. Mon. a nd Ca pitol Reef Nat. M o n .
Two days: B ryce C a nyon N a t. Pa rk, Ceda r B r e a k s N a t . Mon.
One day: Zion N a t . Park, St. George, and Uta h's cotton a re a .
Two days: P i p e S p r i n g N a t . M o n . t o N o rth R i m Gra n d C a n yo n .
One day: W u pa t k i N a t . M o n . , F l a g staff a n d vicin ity.
One day: Mete o r C rater, Petrified Fo rest, G a l l u p, a n d A l b u -
q u e rq u e .
T W O W E E KS I N WI NTER (genera lly south)
( Reve rse route if you come from the west):
One day: Big Bend Nat. P a r k . Next day via old Fort Davis to
Two days: Carlsbad Caverns Nat. Park. Via A rtesia and C lo u d -
croft to W h ite S a n d s Nat. Mon., a n d o n to-
One day: El P a so, Tex., and J uarez, Mexico . Via U . S . 80 to
Two days: Tucso n , Ariz., a n d Sa g u a ro N a t . M o n . , T u macaco ri
Nat. M o n . , San Xavier Mission, a n d Arizona-So n o ra Desert
M u se u m .
Two days: O r g a n P i p e Cactus Nat. M o n . , G u lf of C a l if., a n d
the nce t o P h o e n i x .
One day: To F l a g staff via Jero me, Montezu m a C a s t l e a n d We l l .
Two days: V i a W u patki Nat. M o n . t o South R i m G r a n d C a n y o n .
One day: H o o v e r D a m a n d l a k e M e a d N a t . Rec. Area .
Two days: l a s Vegas, Nev., a n d Death Va l ley N at. M o n . , J o s h u a
T r e e N a t . M o n . , a n d o t h e r a ttractions of S E C a l if o r n i a .

TOURING 15
A 3-WE E K T O U R OF T H E SOUTHWEST This tou r of
the whole Southwest is best taken in either April or
October to avoid tem perature extremes. If you m ust visit
the Southwest in summer or in winter, expa n d one of the
trips outlined on p. 1 5 to fit your schedu le. By avoiding
the peak of either season, you wi l l miss the crowds and
enjoy the country more.
One da y: Big Bend Nat. Pa rk, Tex.
Two days: Ca rlsbad Caverns Nat. Pa rk, Wh ite S a n d s Nat. M o n . ,
El Paso, a n d J uarez, Mex.
Three days: Tom bstone; Tucson; S a g u a ro, T u m a cacori, C h irica
hua, and Tonto Nat. Mons.; P hoenix; O rga n Pipe C actus
Nat. Mon. Then northwestwa rd-
Two days: To Death Va l ley N at. Mo n ., las Vegas, Lake Mead,
and Hoover Dam.
Two days: To G ra n d C a n yo n . Visit both rims if you have time.
Three days: Via Pipe Spring N a t . Mo n . and Uta h's Dixie to Zion
and B ryce C a n yo n s a n d Cedar Breaks Nat. Mo n . Try the d i rt
roa d over B o u l d e r Mounta i n a n d C a pito l Reef N a t . Mon . to
N a t u r a l Bridges a n d Arches Nat. Mons. Thence to-
Two days: G ra n d J u n ction, Colorado Nat. Mon., B l a c k C a nyon
of the G u n nison , and via O u ray a n d Silverton (Mil lion D o l l a r
H i g h way) t o Mesa Verde N a t . Park.
Three days: Either th rou g h M o n u m e n t Va l ley o r throu g h the gas
a n d oil cou ntry of NW New Mex. to the I nd i a n ( N a vajo and
Hop i ) rese rvation s of NE Arizona, Petrified Fo re st, a n d G a l l u p .
Three days: East o n U .S . 66 t o t h e R i o G r a n d e Va l ley of N N e w
Mex., i n c l u d i n g A l b u q u e rq u e, S a n ta F e , Taos, a n d t h e I nd i a n
p u e b los a n d pictu resque S p a n ish-America n v i l l a g e s a n d farms.

ADMISSION AND G U I D E F E ES a re charged by private


and, in some cases, federa l and state organ izations. Re
ligious agencies may i nvite offerings. Some national parks
and monuments charge fees. Most Indian pueblos charge
n o visiting fee; some do if pictures are taken.
16 TOURING
I N DIANS OF
THE SOUTHWEST

Man originated in Asia and prob


ably came to N orth America over
a Bering Strait land bridge in
many distinct migrations. Some of
the m igra nts, settling in the South
west, took up l ife in caves and
hunted animals 25,000 or more
years ago. By 1 0,000 years ago,
severa l distinct groups had come
or deve l o ped; some were h unters,
some primitive farmers. Very little is known of m a n i n
t h e Southwest before t h e beginning o f t h e C hristian era .
But people living soon after that left their skeletons, tools,
and craft work in g raves and trash heaps. Study of these
remains and dating of them by tree rings and radioactive
carbon have enabled scientists to trace several early cul
tures down to modern Indian groups.
Coronado's arriva l in 1 540 opened the h istoric period
of Southwestern Indian l ife and began the long conflict
which fina l l y placed Indian tribes on reservations. Today,
these picturesq ue people are citizens. They are being en
couraged to expand their colorful a rts, customs, a n d cere
mon ies a n d, at the same time, to find a place in today's
economy s o that they may raise their living sta ndards a n d
have a fair share o f opportun ity in t h e Atomic Age.
F o r m o r e about I ndians, rea d :
PREHISTO R I C I N D I A N S O F T H E SOUTH WEST, Wormi ngton, B u l l . No. 7, C o l a .
M u s . N a t . H ist., Denver, 1 947.
SoUT H W ESTERN A R C H EOLOGY, McGregor, John Wiley & Sons, N . Y.,
1941 .
MASKED GoDs, Frank Waters, U n iv. of N. Mex. P ress, Albuquerque
1950.
H E RE Co M E TH E N AVA H O , U n d e r h i l l, U . S. I nd i a n Service, Haskell lnst.,
Lawrence, Kan., 1953 .
I NDIANS 17
'

I
'

I
SeVier Lake
I

NEVA DA /

'
'
'

\\

\\ I
..... __ ... ___ .L..- --- ..!...,_ --

KEY
MEXICO

Indian reservations
Cities

For other Indian sites see maps on paqes 27 and 31.

18 I N D I A N RESERVAT I O N S
---------------- ------------ ----- --------,
I
I
I
\

'

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I
I

I
'
T_E X As -

0 0 60 90 120

O n e inch equals about 120 miles


EARLI EST I N HABITANTS Spea r points of fla ked
stone found with bones of long-extinct bison, camel, mas
todon, and m a m m oth in a cave in the Sa ndia Moun ta i n s
n e a r Albuq uerque (AL-bu-KER-kee), N. Mex., have been
estim ated to be 25,000 years old. This earl iest record of
man i n the Southwest has been named the Sa n d ia (sa n
DEE-ah) C u lture. Most fa mous of the ancient c u l tures is
called Folsom beca use of finely flaked projectile points
fou n d near Folsom, N . Mex., with bones of an extinct
bison. Other evidence shows that Folsom people l ived
between 1 0,000 a n d 25,000 years ago. Another g ro u p
of people, at a b o u t t h e s a m e time, made thick, sq uare
based projecti le points, first found near San Jon ( H ONE),
N . Mex. A recent skeleta l discovery, older tha n Fo lsom
Man , in western Texas has been named Mid land Man.
More recently, people of the Yuma C u lture made beau
tiful, fla ked projecti le points, first found near Yuma, Colo.
Ancient grinding stones found in Venta na Cave, south of
Phoenix, Ariz., and a lso in southwestern New Mexico,
mark the Cochise Culture of fruit-a nd-root-gathering peo
ple who lived from 1 0,000 to 500 B.C. These materia ls
a n d others fou n d i n Gypsum Cave, Nev., a n d in the Tabe
guache Va l ley of southwestern Colorado are the main
records of people i n the Southwest before the Christian era.
20 I N DIANS
ANASAZI CULT U R E Anasazi (Navajo for "a ncient
ones") is the name given to the people who lived over a l l
the plateaulands o f the northern Southwest i n pre-Chris
tian times. Later raiders, disease, or the great drouth
( 1 276- 1 299 A.D.) forced them to seek new homes, wh ich
their desce ndants, the Pueblo I ndians, now occupy. The
early Anasazi were ca l led Basketmakers because of bas
ketry rem ains foun d in their caves. These people were
semi-agricultura l; they bui lt slab- l ined storage pits, hunted
with spear throwers cal led atlatls, had dogs, wove cloth
ing from skins and plant fibers, and buried food and
equipment with their dead to provide for a future l ife.
By 500-600 A.D. these people had established commu
nities and had learned how to bui l d pithouse she lters.
Another i m porta nt advance wa s the start of pottery mak
ing. Turkeys may have been domesticated during this time.
Bea ns were added to the crops of corn a n d squash, and
the bow a n d arrow fi rst came into use. By 800 A.D. the
beginnings of modern Pueb lo Culture were evident.

,21
14th Century Hohokam Watchtower (restored) and Irriga tion
Canal at CasaGrande National Monument (seep. 136)

H O H OKAM, MOGOLLON, PATAYAN While the


Anasazi were laying the foundations of the future Pueblo
civilization, several cu ltures developed in southern deserts
and val leys. The Hohokam (ho-ho-KAM, Pima for "those
who have gone") were farmers who developed an ad
vanced system of irrigation . Shell jewelry, cremation of
the dead, finely woven cotton fabrics, a n d wattle-and
daub houses marked their cu lture. Hohokam may have
been a ncestors of the modern Pimas and Papagos. Less is
known of the Mogollon (mogoYO HN) Culture, which
developed (possibly from the earl ier Cochise) in the south
ern N ew Mexico-Arizona area. Yuman and Patayan
(Wa lapai for "the old people") groups occu pied the
Colorado River Va l ley below Grand Canyon. Knowledge
of other g roups is scant; few remains have been found.
While scientists are stil l sea rching, visitors should n ot do
unscientific digging and il legal "poth unting" lest evidence
be destroyed which is essential in historica l research.
22 I N DIANS
R I S E OF P U EBLOS Tra nsition, about 700-800 A.D.,
from Basketmaker to Pueblo is recognized by the devel
opment of many-roomed masonry houses a n d the m odifi
cation of the old pithouse to a ceremonia l chamber or kiva
( K E E-vah). Crude stone hoes and axes came i nto use. Cot
ton was a new crop, a n d the loom was developed. The
one-story 6- to 1 4-room houses were built in a double tier
or sing l e row, sometimes l- or U-shaped. Pottery devel
oped with variety in form and decoration. Baskets were
sti l l made, but pottery took over many uses. New tech
n iq ues a n d materia ls in weaving appeared. The bow a n d
arrow cam e into general use. H u m a n bodies were buried,
in fl exed position, in abandoned storage pits or trash
hea ps, with pottery a n d other offerings. Anasazi influence
spread, evidence of it being found from the Big Bend area
i n Texas to southeastern Nevada. By 1 000 A.D. nearly a l l
Pueblo traits were estab l ished a n d the stage was set for a
great Southwest native civi lization to burst into bloom.

Typical House-Early Pueblo Period


GOLDEN AGE OF PUEBLOS
its peak in the Southwest whi le the sha dow of the Dark
Ages lay over Europe. About 1 050 A.D. there was a trend
toward great, terraced, com m u n a l dwe l l ings severa l sto
ries high, housing hundreds of people. These were built in
the open or u n der protecting cl iffs, as at Mesa Verde
Natio n a l Park, Colo. Much loca l variation in architecture
and i n the arts and crafts developed. Pottery was made
with a richness of form and design . H igh- q u a l ity cotton
cloth reflected progress in weaving, a n d bea utiful tur
q uoise jewel ry was made. Dry farming, flood-water farm
ing, and irrigation were practiced.
The end of the golden age bega n before 1 300 A.D.
Com m u n a l dwe l l ings were gradually abandoned until the
entire n orthern area was deserted. No one knows what
caused the em igration - perha ps epidem ics, attacks by
-
plundering Nava jos and Apaches, destructi on of farm
land by erosion, interna l discord, or fam ine resulting from
the great drouth of 1 276- 1 299. At any rate the works of
centuries were abandoned and the people m oved to
places where conditions were more favorable and where
we fi n d their descenda nts today.
24 I N DIANS
ARTS AND CRAFTS OF THE GOLDEN AGE

Arrowheads

Rock Pictures
After the great com m u n a l dwell
ings were abandoned and new vi l lages estab l ished, the
rejuvenated Anasazi might have risen to a new cu ltura l
peak but for the arriva l of Europea ns in 1 540. The Span
ish exploring the Southwest fou n d more tha n 70 inhab
ited I ndian pueblos (in 1 955 there were only 30). After the
Span ish came, the I ndians a bsorbed new ideas and
adopted new materia ls including meta l s a n d livestock. I n
1 680 the Pueblos revolted and for 1 2 years were free of
Spanish rule. Even today, after long domination by peo
ple of Europea n origin, the Pueblos hol d to m uch of their
old way of life. Except for the Zuni and Hopi villages,
modern Pueblos are in the Rio Grande or tributa ry va l leys.
The I ndians farm irrigated lands, ra ise cattle, or work at a
variety of jobs. Government and private agencies stimu
late continuation of native arts and crafts, a n d many
products flnd a tourist market. Dances and ceremonials
are sti l l practiced as religious or social observa nces. Vis
itors a re we lcome to the v i l l ages and to the p u b l ic dances.
F o r more about Pueblo Indians, read NEw Mmco INDIANS Bertha P . Dutton
New Mexico Assoc. on Indian Affairs. Santa Fe. N. Mx 1951. and TH
WoRKADAY LIFE OF THE PunLa INDIANS, Underhill. U.S. Indian Service, Haskell
lnsl., Lawrence, Kan., 1946.

26 IN DIANS
2

e SANTA FE

DIALECTS

Tlwa Kereaan
1 Taos 10 Cochiti
2 Picuris 11 Santo
3 Sandia Domingo
4 Isleta 12 San Felipe
Tewa 13 Santa Ana
5 San Juan 14 Zia
6 Santa Clara 15
laguna
7 San lldefonso 1 6 Acoma
8 Nambe Towa
9 Tesuque 17 Jemez

RIO GRAN D E P U EBLOS The upper Rio Grande Va l ley


has remains of a ncient cu ltures, modern Indian vil lages,
Spa n ish-speaking towns, u p-to-date cities, and workshops
of the atom scientists. Pueblo I ndia n fa rmers use mod
ern methods of agricu lture, tools, and machinery. The
homes of these people are a m ixture of the a n c ient a n d
the modern . They use store clothing f o r daily wear, but
the older women sti l l favor native styles for dress-u p occa
sions. Nomina l ly Christian ized, the people reta in m a n y
rel igious beliefs o f their forefathers. E a c h fa mily has its
ceremonial costumes or has custody of com m u n a l religious
regalia, which is a cherished responsib i l ity. Many Pueblo
I ndians speak three lang uages: their own triba l dia lect
(noted above), Spa n ish, and English.
I N DIANS 27
Taos War Donee

PUEBLO DAILY LIFE A lthough the pue b l os a re g e n


e ra l l y a l ike, each has i t s o w n soc i a l org a n izatio n . Secu l a r
authority rests i n an a n nua l ly e l ected gove r n o r . Re l i g ious
activities a re control l ed by a cacique (ka h-S E E-kee ) , who
h o l d s office for l ife. Principales integ rate civi l a n d r e l i g ious
matters. R e l i g i o n , based on the idea that m a n m ust l ive i n
h a r m o n y with nature, t ranscends a l l e lse. It i n tegrates a rts,
c rafts, fa r m i n g , hunting, a n d socia l affa irs, a n d und e r l ies
Pue b l o legend, poetry, song, ceremony, and d a n c e .
Socia l ly, the peop l e o f a pue b l o belong t o one o f two
k insh i p g roups, each havi n g seve r a l kiva or "c hurch"
societies. There is a l so a kachina, or rain- m a k i ng, cult. A
few pueb los do not permit outsiders to v i ew their m a sked
d a n ces, which a re ofte n the fina l and pub l ic perform ances
of sacred r ites t h a t have been going on for days. I f you
are a b l e to see a dance, do not take p h otog r a p h s or
m a k e sketch es or notes un l ess you have the specific per
m ission of t h e puebl o gove rnor. Each pueblo holds a
fiesta at a fixed date in honor of its patron s a i n t-a
Eagle Dancer Spanish custom. E a r l y pr iests
gave the n a m e of a n a p propriate
sa int to each n a tive cere m o nia l ,
t o direct t h e rite i n to reve r e nce
for a Catholic patron. (See p. 13.)
28
Drum

Ceremo n i a l Moccasins
a n d Leg g i ngs

Bracelets a n d
Nec klace

Baskets

29
THE ZU N I S Thirty-two miles
south of Ga l l u p i n the largest
pueblo in New Mexico l ive the
Zuni (ZOO-nee) people. Of the
20 known vil lage sites, only 7 were
inhabited in 1 539, when Estevan
the-Moor beca m e the fi rst Euro
pea n to fi n d a n d be killed by
Puebloans. The next year Coro
nado ca ptured the Zuni village of
Hawiku, b ut, finding no gold, h e
continued eastward. After 1 706
o n ly one Zuni village was occu
pied. 3 Zuni vil lages remained.
Zunis are farmers noted for
their pottery and turquoise inlay
jewelry. From Europeans they
learned to work iron, turning to
brass and copper about 1 840-
1 850. By 1 870 they had adopted
silversmithing a n d had learned
the use of stam ps and dies from
Nava jos. About 1 890 they bega n
to develop orig i n a l techniq ues
that led to exq uisite in lay work,
which they have been doing ever
since. The famous Zuni Sha lako
ceremony held i n November or
December each year has become
a gathering point for students,
visitors, a n d friends of the I n dians
of all the Southwest.
THE HOPIS On the three Hopi
(HO-pee) mesas, at the heart of
the Navajo Reservation, are nine
villages, d iscovered by Cardenas
(one of Coronado's l ieutena nts) in
1 540. Oraibi is probably one of
the two o ldest continuously occu
pied towns in the Un ited States
(Acoma, p. 1 39, is the other). The
Hopis though friendly have long
resisted European dom ination.
The Spanish tried to convert them,
b ut in 1 680 the Hopis uprose with
other Pueblo grou ps, killed the
priests, a n d destroyed the m iss ions.
They were never reconquered.
Hopi civil officials are a lso religious
leaders. The household centers
aroun d the m other a n d is the piv
ot of the village religious a n d so
cial life. The Hopi seek bou ntiful
crops through intricate ceremo
nies. Snake dances, held each Au
g ust as a plea for rain, attract
hundreds of visitors. Hopi women
make bea utiful pottery and bas
kets. Men ca rve kachina dolls and
weave ceremonial garments.

First Mesa Second Mesa Third Mesa


1 Walpi 4 Mish o n g n ovi 7 Oraibi
2 Sichomovi 5 S h i p o u l ovi 8 H otevi l l a
3 Hano 6 S h u n gopovi 9 Bacabi
YUMAS AND PAIUTES About 14 Yum a n tribes c a l l e d
R a n cheria (fa rmer) I n dians occupy the l ower Co l o r a d o
River Va l l ey, the hottest p a r t o f the Southwest. Besides
f a r m i n g , they hunt, fis h, gather wild fruits, and ra ise cattle.
Northe r n most of this g roup, the Pa iutes, or Digger India ns,
l ive where Uta h , Neva da, and Arizo na m eet and in nea rby
Ca lifornia. The Havasupais, living i n a canyon tha t l e a d s
into Gra n d Canyon, a n d the W a l a pai, t h eir n eig h b o rs t o
the west, fa r m a n d raise catt le. Be l ow Need l es, Ca lif.,
a re the Chemehuevis, who, like the Cocopa h s near Yum a ,
are in different ag ricul turists. Mohaves, i n t h e e a r l y days,
sometimes sett led g roup d ifferences in i n dividua l c o m b a t
w i t h c lubs of mesquite wo od. Yumas a n d Moha ves con
stant ly resiste d newcomers of Euro pean ori gin. Many of
he Yum an tribes g rew native cotton, w h i c h wo m e n s pun
nd men wove into c l oth .

Yuman Woman Spinning

32 INDIANS
Harvesting Saguaro Fru it

PIMAS AND PAPAGOS Papagos ( Desert Peo p l e ) a n d


Pim as ( R iver Peop l e ) a r e rel ated tribes o f n o r t h e r n Mexico
and sout h e r n Arizon a . Both a re fa r m e rs, aug m e n ting t h eir
crops with cactus fruits, seeds of mesquite a nd othe r wild
p l a n ts, n a tive vegetables, a nd wild g a m e . Moder n Pim a s
h ave a dded w h e a t a n d a lfa lfa to t h eir a n cie n t cro ps o f
c o r n , bea n s, squas h, cotto n, a n d tobacco . Lacking irriga
tio n water, Pa pagos raise cattle a nd depend h eavily upon
native food p l a n ts, such as the fruits of t h e Gia n t Cactus,
the h a rvest season for which sets t h e triba l n ew yea r . Pe o
p l e of both tribe s live in s m a l l vil l ages (see p. 139). T h ey
we re frie n d l y to the e a r l y Spa nish and ot h e r settlers, serv
i n g as scouts in t h e Apache c a m paig ns. Bot h tribes once
m ade pottery for h o m e use, n ow m a k e beautiful baskets
for the tourist trade.
INDIANS 33
T H E U TES, m ost warl ike tribe on the Colorado-Uta h pla
teau, were littl e known before Esca la nte's journey throug h
their territory i n 1 776. The Utes raided pueblos a n d Span
ish settlements until Chief Ouray (yoo-RAY) made peace
i n 1 879. Recent gas and oil developments on their lands
have given the Utes new wea lth.
THE KIOWAS, now settled in western Oklahoma, once
were among the most feared Plains I n d ians. Joining
forces with the Comanches in 1790, they together fought
the invaders of their h u nting grounds u ntil forced to sign
a treaty { later broken) with the U nited States i n 1865.
T H E COMANCH ES, lords of the southern pla ins, ra nged
east of the Rockies and west to the Rio Grande. They
fought the Apaches a n d traded with the Puebloaris. These
most skil lful of I ndian horsemen alternated buffa l o h unts
with raids into Mexico and attacks on wagon tra ins trav
eling the Santa Fe Trail. They were suppressed in 1 875.
Kiowa Raiding Party
T H E APAC H ES Apaches are bel ieved to have drifted
south from n orthwestern Canada about 1 200- 1 400 A.D.
They were h unters a n d plant gatherers u ntil the acquisi
tion of Spa n ish horses remade their wriy of l ife. The
Apaches h u n ted buffalo, fought the Comanches (who
defeated them in 1 723), and raided the pueb los. A
scourge to travelers, desert farmer I ndians, a n d Spa n ish
settlements for nearly two centuries, they were fi n a l l y sub
dued by the Un ited States Army. Geron imo (her-ON-e
moh) and his band were the last to surrender, in Hi86.
Now the Apaches, of which there are several triba l
grou ps, are excellent stockmen. Their rituals have never
been much p u b l icized, the best known being the a n n u a l
G a h a n Ceremonial at Mesca lero, N . Mex., J u l y 1 -4. The
Apache Fire Dance a n d the Devil Dance a re among the
spectacular presentations each August at the I n ter-Tribal
Ceremonial at Ga l l u p, N . Mex.
I N DIANS 3 5
Navajo Sand Painting

T H E NAVAJOS The 70,000 Nava jos, on their 24,000-


squa re-mile reservation in Arizona, N ew Mexico, a n d
Utah, form the largest Indian tribe i n the U.S. Their fore
bears drifted down from Northwest Ca nada about 1 200-
1 400 A.D. First ca l led Apaches by the Spanish, later des
ignated Apaches de Nabahu'u (enemies from farmed
la nds), they fi n a l l y became known as Navajos. Wander
ing hunters and plant gatherers, Nava jos preferred to
raid the fields of the Pueblos. When, in 1 848, the United
States obtained the Southwest from Mexico, Kit Carson
was commissioned to subdue the Navajos. After destroy
ing their sheep and crops, he rounded up 8,000 of the peo
ple and in 1 864 moved them to Fort Sum ner, N. Mex., as
prisoners of war. I n 1 868 the Nava jos signed a peace
treaty and returned home. Within 1 0 years they were es
tablished again, and by 1 934 their sheep and horses had
overgra zed the entire reservation and the people were
threatened with famine. Now, with the hel p of oil and
ura nium roya lties, schools, and irrigated farms, the
Navajo leaders are working out a triba l progra m to make
their people self-sufficient.
36 I N DIANS
NAVAJO ARTS AND C USTOMS Returning from Fort
Sumner in 1 868, some Nava jos u ndertook fa rmi ng, but
most raised sheep. Flocks a n d crops are owned by wom e n .
The wife i s the center o f the fami ly; the chi l dren a r e hers
and m embers of her c l a n . Women and chi ldren herd a n d
butcher the sheep, s p i n the wool , a n d weave rugs, which
are exchanged for clothin g, coffee, sugar, or canned
foods. Wom e n a n d children sti l l dress in 1 860 styles, wear
ing long, fu l l , c a l ico skirts and colorful velveteen blouses.
Men reta in their pride in horsema nship a n d their wealth
in horses. Many men now work for wages. Previously,
silversm ithi n g was importa nt men's work. With crude tools
and si lver dol lars or Mexican pesos, Navajo. m e n deve l
oped the heavy si lver jewel ry for which the tribe is famous.
Now they use si lver slugs or wire l o make rings, bracelets,
pins, buckles, necklaces, a n d concho belts. Men represent
their fa m i l ies at ceremon ies and in pub lic. All ritua ls have
a defi n ite objective: to secure food, insure surviva l, regain
hea lth, or cast out evil spirits. These rites, called "sings,"
are important also as social gatherings.

Navajo Silversmith

37
Navajo Loom and Hogan

N AVAJO WEAVING Navajo fa m i l ies in winter l ive


in dome-shaped hogans made of logs or stones a n d earth.
In sum mer, when they are on the move sea rching for grass
for the sheep, they build a simple brush shelter wherever
they stay for a few days. Here the wife does housekeep
ing and sets up her loom, weaving rugs when time per
m its. All mem bers of the family hel p with shearing, but the
chi ldren watch the sheep and the women wash, card, spin,
and dye the wool. Nava jos learned weaving from the
Pueb los and, soon after obtaining sheep from the Span
ish, began weaving blankets, using their own wool and
native dyes. With twisted yarns and com mercia l dyes, n ew
designs came. Nava jos prefer lighter, more colorfu l Pen
dleton wool blankets; so, after 1 890, they began to make
rugs for sa le. I n recent years weaving has declined.
For m o r e about N avajos a n d Apaches r e a d :
TRADERS TO T H E NAVAHO, Wetherill, U n iv. of N . M e x . Press, A l b uq uer
q u e, 1 952.
APACHE AGEN T, Clum, Houg hton Mifflin Co., Boston, 1 936.
NAVAHO SHEPHER D A N D WEAVER, Gladys Amanda Reichard, J . J. Aug us
tin, Locust Valley, L. 1., N. Y., 1 936.
APACHE DAYS AND A FTER , Criese, Caxton Printers, Caldwell, I d a . , 1 94 1 .
NAVAHO WEAVI N G, Amsden, U n iv. of N. Mex. Press, A l b u q uerque,
1 949.
THE NAVAHO, Kluckhohn and Leighton, H a rvard U n iv. Press, Cam
bridge, Mass., 1 947.

38 I N DIANS
Shoulder
Blanket

Modern
Rug (Ve
getable Dyes)

39
H I STORICAL TIMET ABLE
1 276-99: long drouth forces I ndians to seek new homes.
1 536: Cabeza de Vaca crosses Southwest e n route to New
Spain.
1 540-42: Coronado explores Southwest from Gra n d Can-
yon to Kansas.
1 58 1 - 1 600: Many Spanish expeditions fol l ow Coronado.
1 598: Juan de Onate sets up fi rst ca pita l at San J u a n .
1 6 1 0: N e w capita l at Santa F e , terminus o f Mexican route.
1 680: Pueblo I n d ians revolt and drive out Span ish.
1 692 : De Vargas reca ptures SW. Father Kino develops
chain of m issions among Pima and Papago I ndians.
1 776: Esca la nte explores present W Colorado and Uta h .
1 803: louisiana Purchase brings U nited States irito SW.
1 8 1 3: Old Spa n ish Trai l partly follows Escalante's route.
1 82 2 : Mexico wins independence from Spain.
1 824: U.S. tra ppers push into SW from east a n d north .
1 830-31 : Old Spanish Tra il extended to C a l ifornia.
1 833: Vein gold discovered in New Mexico.
1 844: Fremont explores Utah and Colorado u ntil 1 853.
1 846: Texas joins U.S. as 2 8th state. Wa r with Mexico!
1 847: Mormons settle Utah and open wagon route from
Santa Fe to California.
40 THE SOUTHWEST YEST ERDAY
1 848: Mexica n War ends. SW tra nsferred to U . S . with
boun dary a l ong Rio Gra n de a n d Gi l a River.
1 849: Stages begin operation over the Sa nta Fe Trai l .
Go l d rus h b r i n g s deaths a l o ng Ca m i n o d e l Dia b l o .
1 850: U . S. buys "Sa nta Fe County" from Texas.
1 853: Ga dsden Purchase sets fi n a l Mexica n boun dary.
1 854-56: Si lver m i n i ng reaches a n ew high i n Arizo n a .
1 857-59: Bea l e th rough SW with c a m e l s . Pi kes Peak g o l d
rus h .
1 862: Civ i l War sp lits S W . Texa ns i n v a d e New Mexico.
1 860- 1 890: Mormons from Utah colon ize Arizon a .
1 864: Nava jos defeated by K it Ca rson, m oved t o Ft.
Sum ner.
1 866: Nevada j o i n s U n io n a s 36th state.
1 869: Powe l l 's boats conquer Co lorado River in Gra n d
Ca nyon.
1 873: Crook subdues Tontos, Yava pa fs and Wa l a pais.
1 876: Coa l m i n ing sta rted i n Uta h . Barbed wire e n d s
e poch of o pe n range. Co lorado becomes 3 8 t h sta te.
1 877-78: Tom bstone and Bisbee - m i n i n g boom towns.
1 88 1 : SW connected to Pacific Coast by railroad.
1 886: Ger o n i m o surrenders, e n d i ng Indian resista nce.
1 896: Uta h becomes 45th state.
MT. WHEELEit +

N E VA D A

e &EATTY

-
KEY

Mormon Battalion
Santa Fe Trail --
... .... ... ... .... Goodnight-Loving Cattle Drive
Escalante's Route
Coronado's Route
Old Spanish Trail
M EX I C O
+ + + + + Chihuahuan Highway
- - - Butterfield's Stagecoach Route, 1 857-6 1
e Cities
0 Old Forts
o Ghost Towns
For I n d i a n features see maps on pages 1 8 1 9 , 2 7 , a n d 3 1 .

42 T H E H I STORICAL SOUTHWEST
D FT. WALLACE

FT.

M E X I C .Q

FT. STANTON
.o-- -,

0 00 60 90 1 '20

O n e inch eq u a l s about 120 miles


THE MODERN S O U T HWEST
Continuous development has oc
curred since 1 900. Climate has
been vita l in attracting tourists
and various m i l itary estab l ish
ments. H uge dams and deep wel l s
have brought water t o stim ulate
progress.
1 903: Three great natural bridges found in SE Uta h .
1 906: A c t f o r Preservation o f American Antiq u ities sets
base for n atio n a l monuments, a rcheolog ica l researc h .
1 908: G r a n d Canyon m a d e National Mon u ment. Beca me
Pork i n 1 9 1 9.
1 9 1 0: Roosevelt Dam completion opens irrigation era.
1 9 1 2: New Mexico and Arizona become states.
1 9 1 8: logging industry enters boom period in SW.
1 923: New Mexico floods show need for prevention.
1 924: Carlsbad Caverns made National Mon u ment. Be-
came Park in 1 930.
1 929: Piping natura l gas brings this fuel into wider use.
1 934: Indian Reorganization Act provides se lf-ru le.
1 935: Deep wel l s sti m ulate agricultura l development.
1 936: Hoover Dam completed .
1 938: "Dust Bowl" in W Texas and Oklahoma a rouses SW.
1 940: Coronado Cuarto Centennia l observed. Santo Ger-
trudis breed of cattle developed.
1 945: Atomic Era opened by explosion of test bomb.
1 947: Rocket testing begins at White Sa nds.
1 948: Ura n i u m discoveries open SW "back country."
1 953: Pipe-line projects expand natura l-gas industry.
1 954: U.S. Air Force Academy set up at Colorado Springs.
H u m a n skeleta l remains, oldest known in U .S., discov
ered at Midland, Tex.

44 T H E SOUTHWES T TODAY
SOME IMPORT ANT C I T I ES

Southwestern Kansas El Paso: Ft. Bliss and Biggs Field.


L i beral: Natural gas center. Rich farming a re a . Carlsbad Cav
Gateway Ia sand hills and Meade e rns, Wh ite San ds Nat. Mon.,
State Park. C l o u dcroft recreation a re a i n N .
Mex., a n d (through J u a rez) Mex.
Garden City: Near Buffa lo,
Point-Rocks, Scott, Fin ney, Hodge Southern Colorado
man State Parks.
Dodge City: Cente r of w heat, Colorado Springs: U.S. Air
shortgrass belt. Ft. Dodge a n d Force Academy. A n n u a l rodeo.
Beeson Museu m . Taylor Museum Fine Arts C enter.
Gateway to Garden of Gods,
Western Oklahoma Manitou Springs, and Pikes Peak.
Freedo m : C rystal Caverns, Little Pueblo: Huge steel m i l l s a n d
Salt Plain, C e d a r C anyon Park. Helen H u n t J ackson h o u s e . N e a r
Kenton: Gateway to Black Mesa, f a r m a n d cattle cou ntry, S p a n ish
Dinosa u r Q u arry, H a l lock Park. Peaks h u nting and fishing a reas.
Altus: Osage I nd i a n Capita l . Salida: Center of routes into
Near Wash ita Mts. Nat. Wildlife majestic Continental Divide cou n
Ref. Reserve a n d Quartz Mt. try. Royal Gorge a n d Arkansas
River scenery and fish i n g .
Western Texas
Alamosa: C enter of r i c h S a n Luis
A marillo: Cente r of wheat a n d Va lley farming area. Gateway to
cattle cou ntry, site of government south ern Rockies, Great Sand
helium p l ant, gateway to Palo Du nes Nat. Mon., Ft. Garland,
D u ro State Park a n d Plains His Taos a n d Eag l e Nest Lake, N .M.
torica l Museum at Ca nyon, Tex. Durango: Center of l ast (D&R
Lubbock: Oil fie lds, MacKenzie GW) n a rrow-g a g e railroad . Gate
and Big Spring State Parks. way to Silverton-O u ray m i n i n g
San Angelo : Center of cattle, d istricts a n d s o u t h e n d of M i l l i o n
sh eep, and goat i n dustry; Ft. Con Dollar H i g h w a y . J u mp-off for
cho State Park and Museum. On h u nting-fishing trips into San J u a n
route of early stagecoach l i n es a n d La Plata Mountains.
a n d cattle d rive trai ls. Grand Junction: J u n ction of the
Alpine: Gateway to Rio Gra n d e Colorado and G u n n ison . Grand
a rea, Big Bend N a t . Park, a n d Va l ley orchards. Grand Mesa,
Davis Mt. State Park. Cattle a n d Black Ca nyon of G u n n ison Nat.
a n telope cou n try. Mon., C h ipeta State Park, fishing.

45
Carlsbad: Near nation's la rgest
potash m i nes, oil fields, Pecos
Raton: C enter of coal a n d cattle farm and cattle country. Gateway
country; gateway to C a p u l i n to Carlsbad Caverns Nat. Park.
Mountain N a t . Mon., preh istoric
Folsom man q u a rry, P h i l mont Silver City: Gateway to Santa
Boy Scout Camp, Vermejo Park, Rosa open-pit copper m i n e, G i l a
a n d h u nting and fishing country Wilde rness A r e a , M o g o l l o n Moun
of t h e Sangre de C r isto Moun tains, Black Ran ge, and Gila Cliff
tains. Dwe l l ings Nat. Mon.

Santa Fe (see p . 1 44) : Home of Arizona


the State Museum and others,
Douglas: Site of giant smelters.
U.S. I n d ia n School, and famous
art colony. State capita l . Gate Gateway to Bisbee mines, Old
way to Hyde State Park, Aspen Tombstone, C h i rica h u a Nat. Mon .,
Basin Ski A r ea, I ndian pueblos, a n d (th rough A g u a Prieta) to
Span ish-American towns, a n d Mexico.
h u nting a n d fishing in the Sangre Tucson (TOO-sa h n ) : Home of
de C r isto Mountains. state university and museum, Da
vis-Month a n Airbase. Gateway
Albuquerque: Home of U n iver
to cattle cou ntry; Arizona-Sonora
sity of New Mexico, K i rtl a n d
Desert Museum; Papago I nd i a n
F i e l d , a n d Sandia Secret Wea
Reservation; San X a v i e r Mission;
pons Base; gateway to La Madera
Colossal C ave; Tumaca cori, Sa
Ski Area and I nd i a n pueblos.
g u a ro, and Organ Pipe Cactus
Ga l lup: S ite of a n n u a l mid-Au Nat. Mons. From Tucson you go
gust I n d i a n ceremonials. Gateway through Nogales (by road or rail)
to Navajo I n dian Reservation, into Mexico.
Z u n i P u e blo, El Morro a n d C haco
Phoenix: State capital, site of
Canyon N a t. Mons., Mt. Taylor
Pueblo Grande Ruins and Heard
volcanic field, Zuni Mountains,
and Arizona Museums; center of
a n d "Four Corners" country.
citrus fruit industry a n d rich vege
Roswe l l: Airbase city among cot table, cotton, a n d cattle-feeding
ton farms. Gateway to Bottomless crop lands. Gateway to the Ari
lakes State Park, Sacramento a n d zona desert, Salt River power
C a p i t a n Mountains, A p a c h e I ndi projects, dude ranches, Gulf of
an Reservation, Cloudcroft, Rui Cal iforn i a fishing, Pima and Pa
doso, a n d li ncoln Cou nty of pago I n d i a n Reservations, Tonto
B i lly-the-Kid fame. and Coso Gra n d e Nat. Mons.

46 IMPORTANT C I T I ES
Glo be: Center, with Miami, af Fillmore: Site of Old Statehouse
copper m m m g a n d smelting; Stale Park; gateway to Esca la nte
Southwest. Nat. Mons. Hq.; Besh Wilderness and h u nting and fish
bagowa Ruin; g a teway to Apache ing areas of Aquarius Plate a u .
I n d ian Reservation, Superior Green River: Gateway to Cold
Mines, Boyce-Thompson Arbore water Geyser, uranium m i n es,
tum, and White Mountain fishing. Capitol Reef and Arches Nat.
Prescott: Site of Old Ft. Whip Mons.; j ump-off for Colorado
ple; g a teway to Joshua Tree for River boat trips.
est, J erome (ghost town), Verde
Southeastern Nevada
Va lley, Tuzigoot, and Montezuma
Castle N at. Mons. Ely: l n fa mous m i n i n g district;
Winslow: Gateway to Navajo g ateway to Paiute I n dian Reser
a n d Hopi Reservations, Meteor vation, Leh man C aves Nat. Mon.,
C rater, Painted Desert, Petrified a n d the Snake Mountain h u nting
Forest N a t. Mon., and State An area.
telope-Buffalo Reserve. Las Vegas: Site of Pioneer Vil
Flagstaff Center of sawm i l l in lage Muse u m a n d Nellis Field
d ustry; site of Lowel l Observatory, Trainer Base; g ateway to H oover
Museum of North ern Arizona, and Dam, Va l ley of Fire, and Lakes
J u ly 4 I ndian Pow-Wow. Gateway Mead and Moh ave.
to Grand Canyon, and to Walnut Beatty: Site of old mining dis
Canyon;. Su nset C rater, and Wu trict, Bottle House Muse u m ; g a te
patki Nat. Mons. Ta ke-off point way to g host towns, Desert Wild
for Navajo a n d Hopi I ndian life Refuge, a n d Death Valley
Reservations, Monument Valley, Nat. Mon.
Oak Creek C a nyon, San Fra ncisco Southwestern Cal ifornia
Pea ks, h u nting and fishing of N El Centro: With Brawley, center
. Arizona, a n d N avajo and Rain- of l mperi l Val ley farming area
bow Bridge Nat. Mons. and g a teway to Mexica li, Mexico,
Southern Utah and weird d esert of Salton Sea.
Cedar City: Gateway to Utah's Pal m Springs: Spa for Holly
Dixie; 1 1Arizona Strip" ; Zion and wood nota b l es; with I n dio, gate
Bryce Ca nyon N at. Pa rks; Cedar way to Joshua Tree Nat. Mon. a n d
Brea ks, Pipe Spring, a nd Grand south e ntra nce of Death V a l l ey .
Canyon N a t. Mon.
IMPORT A N T C I T I ES 47
S k y Harbor, Phoen i x, Ariz.

MOD E R N LIF E AND INDUSTRIES Today's Southwest


is a l a n d of contrasts. Atom scientists from n ew, u ltra
modern los A l a mos en route to Spa n ish-s pe a k i n g Sa nta
Fe (ol dest ca pita l city i n the U n ited States) pass I n d i a n
pueblos where potte rs use methods a thousa n d yea rs o l d .
Trave lers i n Diesel-drawn P u l l m a n s fl ash past b u rros l a d e n
w i t h w o o d f o r cooking fi res. Armies o f h u n ters, skiers, fi sh
ermen, "rockhounds," photogra phers, a n d sightseers
invade this l a n d each year to e n j oy the scenery, c l i m ate,
a n d their hobbies. They hel p b u i l d the Southwest's boom
i n g tou rist i n d u stry.
H u g e irrigation syste ms water m i l l ions of a cres of cot
ton , citrus, a lfalfa, a p p le, peach, corn, w heat, a n d other
crops. From desert c attl e ta n ks to the dron i n g generators
of Hoover Dam, the Southwest's fi rst caution i s "Go easy
with water! " Here is a sun-warmed land of modern cities
and wide ran ges; of forested m o u n ta i n s and cactus
studded deserts; of rich farms and rocky mesas where
coa l, g o l d , lead, p um ice, a n d co pper a r e m i n e d a n d
where prospectors search f o r sti l l - hidden u r a n i u m , petro
leum, a n d oth e r earth treasures. The fi g u res o n p. 49 g ive
a general picture of recent Southwestern production a n d
progress.
48 ACTIVITIES TODAY
T H E MODERN SOUTHWEST-RESOURCES AND O T H E R STATISTICS
(Acres, K.W. H . , and d o l lars are in m i l l ions; v a l u e s are a n n u a l)

ARIZONA NEW M E X I C O UTAH COLORADO TEXAS N E VA D A

Area (in sq. mi les) 1 1 4,000 1 22 ,000 85,000 1 04,000 267 000 1 1 1 ,000
Popu lation, 1 950 750,000 68 1 ,000 689,000 1 ,325,000 7,7 1 1 ,000 1 60,000
Capital city P h oen i x Santa F e Salt lake Denver Austin C a rson C i ty
Citv
Acres natl. forests 1 2 .2 1 0.3 9.1 1 5.2 1 .7 SA

livestock values $ 95.7 $1 07.5 $1 1 2 . 6 $323 .9 $ 848. 3 $3 2.0


Farm crop v a l u e s $276 .0 $1 95.4 $ 38. 4 $558 . 1 $1 , 1 47.4 $1 6.0
Oil and gas values - $ 1 6 1. 6 $ 3.2 $ 97.3 $2,362 .6 -

Minera l v a l ues $1 8 1 . 1 $ 1 99.6 $1 77.7 $228.5 $2,365.8 $37.4


Farm land acreage 37.9 49. 6 1 0.3 36.2 1 41 .3 6.2 I
Acres irr igated 1 .4 0.7 1.1 2.9 2.7 0. 7
Tou rist values $200 $ 1 75 $ 3 1 .7 $265.3 $ 770.5 -

Mfg. prod. values $ 1 04 $55.5 $1 28.3 $286.8 $ 1 ,727.5 $27 . 8


K . W . H . ( k i l owatt-
hours) produced 3,770 1 ,820 2,700 2,260 7,280 -

Nat. parks
and mons. 17 9 11 8 1 2
State parks
and mons. 0 15 6 0 48 11
PLANTS A N D A N IMALS In traveling n otice abrupt
changes in vegetation. A pinyon-jun iper forest g ives place
to grassland studded with yuccas; Creosotebush and Salt
bush merge into cactus, Mesquite, and Palo-Verde. The
group of plant species norma l l y found growing together
in a common environment is cal led a "plant association."
Animal species, including insects, prefer particu l a r plant
associations for food and shelter, so each vegetative type
becomes part of a "community" of pla nts and a n imals.
Elevation, soi l, and other factors determine the nature of
communities. Where moisture is a l l-im porta nt, plant asso
ciations show seasonal changes. Some species live through
long dry periods in the seed stage; others become dor
mant; still others develop water-storage organs or other
devices enabling them to remain active through drouth.
Species unable to endure extreme conditions are replaced
L I F E ZONE ELEVAT I O N S , TYPE O F CO U NTRY RA I N FALL,
feet above sea inches per
level (approx . ) year

Arcticalpine Above 1 2,000 Above timberline 30-35

H udsonian 9,500-1 2,000 H i g h mountains to timberline 30-35

Canadian 8,000-1 0,000 Mou ntains 25-30

Transition 7,000-8,000 Plateaulands 1 9-25

Upper Sonoran 3,500-7,000 Mesas and footh i l l s 1 2 -20

Lower Sonoran 500- 4,000 Sanaran, Mohave and 3-15


C h i h uohuan deserts

Dry-tropical Below 500 Along Colorado River 1 -6


in extreme SW A_rizona
by those that can. If a species thrives abnormal ly, its pred
ators act to control it. The natural system of controls is
called a "biologica l balance." Activities of man sometimes
u pset it and g ive certain species a n adva ntage. Each
Southwest association or community is restricted to specific
e levatio n a l belts, or zones, a bove or below which cli
m atic conditions are u nfavorable to it.

Life Zones As you go from the desert up to the m esas


and on into the mountains, you notice fa l l ing tem perature,
increased moisture, and marked differences in the plant
and animal life. The great natura list C. Hart Merria m
showed that such cha nges due to elevation resemble
those due to latitude. Rough ly, a change i n elevation of
1 ,000 ft. equals a north-south d ifference of 300 mi les. This
theory helps explain the Southwest's com plex plant l ife
and animals dependent u pon it.
TYPICAL PLANTS

Douglas Fir, White Fir,


Quaking Aspen

Ponderosa Pine

Pinyon-J u niper, Grama Grass,


Sagebrush

Creosotebush, Salt Bush, and


Ocoti l l o
PLANT GEOGRAPHY Each l ife zone ( p p. 50-5 1 ) is
represented-a rctic a n d d ry-trop ica l rarely. Most peaks
a bove timber l ine are a ccessible o n l y by foot o r h orseback.
The Pikes Pea k s u m m it road goes i nto the arctic-a l pi n e life
zone. H u dson ian p l a n t c o m m u n ities occ u r a l o n g h i g hways
through some m o u nta i n pa sses. C a n a d i a n l ife zone p l a nts
a ppear a l ong m o u nta i n roads i n New Mexico, C o l orado,
Arizona, Uta h , and Neva d a . Ponderosa P i n e , c h ief South
west l u m ber tree, indicates tra nsition l ife-zone c o n d ition s
wherever i t g rows a b u n d a ntly.
Arctic-Al p i n e Z o n e H u d so n i a n Zone
Son Francisco Mts., Ariz. Cedar Breaks Nat. Mon., Utah
Sangre 1de Cristo Mts., N . Mex. Bryce Canyon, Uta h
San Juan Mts., Colo. N. Rim Grand Ca nyon, Ariz.
U ncom p a h g re Mts., Colo. Wolf C reek Pass, Colo.
Snake Range, Nev. Mill ion Dollar H i g hway, Colo.
Wasatch Mts., Utah Monarch Pass, Colo.
Pikes Peo k, Colo. lizard Head Pass, Colo.
Ca n a d i a n Zone Transition Z o n e
Ka i b a b Plateau, Ariz. C h irica h ua Mts., Ariz.
Wh ite Mts., Ariz. Santa Catalina Mts., Ariz.
Sandio Mts., N . Mex. C h isos Mts., Tex.
Black Ra nge, N . Mex . Davis Mts., Tex.
Sacra mento Mts., N. Mex. Z u n i Mts., N . Mex.
A q u a rius Platea u , Utah La S a l Mts., U t a h
C h a r l eston Mts., N ev . p latea us, SW Utah
C o n d itions favora b l e to u p per Sonoran vegetation a re
m o re widespread in the Southwest than a n y other condi
tion s . Mesa lands a n d footh i l l s covered with pygmy forests
of p inyon and j u n i per are ty pica l . lower Sonoran condi
tions preva i l a cross the entire southern portion of the
Southwest, reac h i n g north i nto southeast Nevada a n d
southwest Uta h . Although conditions typica l o f t h e d ry
tropica l l ife zone do not enter the Southwest, c o m p a r a b l e
vegetation is found a long the C o lorado R i v e r a b ove its
delta . It a p pea rs, a l so, from the Gulf of C a l ifornia, a lo n g
the va l ley of the Sonoita River, to the southern portion of
Organ P ipe Cactus Nation a l Monument south of Ajo, Ariz.
52 PLANTS AND ANIMALS
BIRDS Western
Red-tai led
Hawk
Birds are seen everywhere in the
Southwest from hot, dry deserts to
a rctic m o u nta i n tops. Some spe
cies are residents; others m i g rate
through the Southwest. Many of
the 400 species recorded i n the
Southwest are fo u n d e lsewhere in
this country. The fol lowi n g pages dea l o n l y with the
birds c h a racter istic of the So uthwest and common e n o u g h
t o be s e e n freq uently. S i n c e e l evation is i m porta nt i n d e
te r m i n i n g loca l c l im ate a n d food su pp ly, b i r d s are c l a ssi
fied a s m o u ntain, mesa, and desert species. However, a
species m a y be found at h i g h e r e levations in s u m mer t h a n
i n winter. I n sect eaters a r e genera l l y a b s e n t at h i g h a lti
tudes, where cold l i m its their food s u p p ly. Less active
d u r i n g the heat of the day, birds are best seen i n e a r l y
m o r n i n g o r l a te afternoon. A s l ow w a l k , .away from
h ouses, wi l l reve a l birds you otherwise wou l d m iss, t h o u g h
jays a n d some others m a k e themse lves a t h o m e n e a r
c a m ps a n d cabins . A l l son g b irds are protected by federa l
' '
a n d state laws.

For more about birds read :

BIRDS, Zim a n d Gabrielson, S i m o n


a n d Schuster, N . Y., 1 955.

A G U I D E TO BIRD F I N D I N G WEST O F T H E
M I S S I S S I PPI, Petti n g i l l , Oxford U n iv.
Press, N . Y., 1 953.

BIRDS O F T H E WEST, Booth, Sta nford


U n iv. P ress, Palo A lto, C a l if., 1 950.

A f i EL D G U I D E TO WESTERN B I R D S,
Peterson, H o u g h ton M i ffl i n Co.,
Boston , 1 94 1 .

53
B I RDS OF THE MOUNTAINS .

M O U N TA I N C H I CKAD E E (5 in.), R O C K Y M O U N TA I N
a common permanent resident of WOODPECKE R (9 i n .) is known
mou nta i n forests, is a friendly and by the white stripe o n its back.
cheerfu l bird. It eats insects and Only m ales have the red head
seeds. patch. Eats insects.

MOUNTA{N B L U E B I R D (7 i n . ) CALLIOPE H UM M I N G B I R D (3
is b r i g h t blue w i t h a characteristic i n . ) is one of the smal lest U .S.
white belly. I t often travels in h u mmers. It p refers high moun
fl ocks. The food consists mainly lain meadows of l u p i n e a n d
pa i ntbrush i n summer,
WATE R O U Z E L (7> in.) lives R O S Y F I N C H (6 in.) lives in snow
near swift strea ms and waterfa l l s, a bove timberline i n summe r, win
n esting in moist locations. It seeks ters i n mountain valleys. Eats in
a q uatic insects under the water. sects, seeds. N ests o n ground.

ROCKY M O U NTA I N N U T C L A R K N UTCRACKER ( 1 21h in.)


HATCH (6 in.) clings head-down summers in m o u ntain forests. It
on tree tru n ks, looking for i nsects will enter ca mps to beg foo d . I n
a n d seeds. It stores food. This bird winter it d escends to the pines
chatters consta ntly. and pinyons.

LONG-CRESTED JAY ( 1 3 in.), of


Ponderosa Pine cou n try, is h a n d
some a n d a rrogant. H ops a b o u t
on the ground, h u nting food a n d
trouble. A f o r m of t h e com m o n
Ste l l e r Jay.
BIRDS OF T H E MESAS

ROCK WREN (51h in.) is a MAGP I E (20 in.) is a h a ndsome,


sprigh tly, g rayish-brown songster long-tailed noisy bird . Colonies
af ca nyon and mesa. Wh itish ta i l nest i n trees and th ickets. They
. Winters i n desert valleys. feed on insects, carrion, a n d grain .

WESTERN MOURNING DOVE WEST E R N MEADOWLARK (9


( 1 2 i n .), brownish, with pointed i n . ), a ch u n ky, brown a n d yellow
tail, is com mon. Nests on ground songster af g rassla nds, has a
or low trees. Song is mournful b lack V on the breast. It eats
1 1Coo-ah , coo, coo, coo."

GOLDEN EAGLE (35 in.), a bird


of mesa and mountain, is larger
a n d darker than hawks. Young
have white under wings. Eats ro
dents, ca rrion. Bald Eagle is rare
i n the Southwest.
B I R DS OF T H E MESAS

SAY P H O E B E (7 in.), a buffy fly WOOD H O U S E JAY ( 1 2 in.) is a


catcher with tawny breast, nests crestless, pale b l u e bird with a
in buildings and under ledges. It streaked g ray chest. N oisy. Lives
snaps u p insects w h i l e on the wing. in oak a n d pi nyon-juniper scru b .

P I NYON JAY ( 1 1 in.) is chunky BROWN TOW H E E (9 i n . ) is


and dark. F locks freq uent j u n ipers fl uffy, brown, spa rrow-like. Lives
a n d pinyons. They are called and nests on the g r o u n d i n brush
Raincrows because of their cry. l a n d . Eats seeds a n d i n sects.

(9 in.) is a small, long-legged


ground owl with n o e a r tufts.
Often seen by day near Prairie
Dog b u rrows and road culverts.
Feeds o n insects and rodents.
B I RDS OF THE D ESERT

P H A I N O P E P LA (7 in.) is crested, CACTUS WREN (7 i n . ) builds


g l ossy bl ue-black, with wh ite wing nests for shelter as well as for
patches i n flight, a n d fl ute-like rea ring young, usually i n cholla
song. Eats berries and insects. or Mesqu ite. Noisy. Eats insects.

D E S E R T SPARROW HAWK (9112 WHITE-RUMPED S H R I K E (9 i n . )


i n . ) , a h a ndsome bird, feedi n g captu res grasshoppers, l izards,
mainly on g rasshoppers a n d s m a l l and sma l l mammals. I m p a les sur
m a m m a l s , is widespread in the plus p rey an thorns. Noisy, q u a r
Southwest. relsome, a n d vicious.

ROADRU N N E R (22 i n . ) , state


bird of New Mexico, rarely flies
unless frig htened. Solita ry rela
tive af the cuckoos. Eats insects,
lizards, s n a kes. Often seen along
roadsides a n d u nd e r saltbushes.
B I R DS OF T H E D ESERT

GILA ( H E-Iah ) WOODPECKER


(9 i n.), named for the valley (8 in.) freq uents thickets where in
where it is most abundant, nests i n sects abound. Has slender body,
cottonwoods o r i n stems o f Giant large head, and pale yellow
Cactus. belly.

N I GHTHAWK (9 in.), of two C R I SSAL T H R A S H E R ( 1 1 '12 in.)


common species, fills the a i r i n and th ree more desert th rashers
erratic flight during summer d u s k a l l are rich songsters. T h ey feed

and d a w n while p u rsuing insects. on the ground and nest i n cac
Nests on bare ground. tuses.

GAM B E L Q U A I L ( 1 0 in.), a game


bird with drooping head plume
simi l a r to California Quail, h a s a
chestnut crown. Feeds and n ests
on the ground. C oveys converse in
soft, spirited tones.
REPTilES
The reptiles of the Southwest incl ude turtles, l izards, and
snakes. The warm, dry c l imate favors the last two groups.
All repti les a re "cold-blooded"; their tem perature is a bout
that of their surroundings. Stories as to the danger from
desert repti les are often exaggerated. Ca ution in wa lking
through brush or climbing rocky places is common sense.
Turtles of the Southwest include both land (tortoises)
and water species. Their shel ls, plated skins, and horny
beaks set them off from other reptiles. look for the famed
Desert Tortoise at lower elevations.
Lizards a re common throughout the Southwest. Some
look like min iature dinosa urs; most eat insects and other
smal l c reatures. On ly one l izard, the Gila Monster, is
poisonous. It should never be handled.
Snakes are colorfu l and interesting. Many kinds (es
pecia l ly in summer) feed only at night. They eat insects,
l izards, and s m a l l rodents. Most snakes are beneficia l .
O f t h e poisonous species in t h e Southwest, only rattlers
o re da ngerous. Wea r stout shoes when hiking and climb
ing. Always look before you step.
For f u r t h e r information read:
REPTILES AND A M P H I BIANS, Zim and Smith, Simon and Sch uster, N . Y.,
1 953.
SNAKES ALIVE A N D H ow TH EY LIVE, Pope, Viking Press, N . Y., 1 937.
H A N D B O O K OF LIZARDS, Sm ith, Cornell U n iv. Press, Ithaca, N . Y., 1 946.
POISO N O U S Dw ELLERS OF THE DESERT, Dodge, Southwestern Monuments
Assoc., G lobe, Ariz., 1 955.

60 P LANTS AND AN lMALS


DESERT TORTO I SE ( 1 0 i n . ), a
h eavy, clu b-footed, p l a nt-eating
tu rtle, ca n live several weeks
without water. Activity governed
by temperature. Female
leathery-skinned egg s;
be hatched by s u n ' s h
:--..:!

W E STE R N BOX TURTLE (5-6 in.)


prefers open, moist a reas; may be
seen along highways. U nder-shell
is hinged. Box tu rtles feed on in
sects and fruits. Fine pets; may
live up to 80 years.

SONORAN MUD TU RTLE (5 in .),


like its eastern relatives, lives in
permanent, . sluggish streams,
la kes, reservoirs. Long, smooth
shel led; emits cha racteristic musky
odor. Feeds on young of aquatic
insects.

EMORY'S SOFT-S H E L L E D TUR


TLE ( 1 8 in.; to 3 5 lb.) is the o n ly
Southwest membe r of an edible
group with long necks and short
tempers. Handle with care. Soft
edged shel ls; lack horny sca les.
Live i n streams, reservoirs, lakes.
M O U N T A I N A N D M ESA LIZARDS
CLIMBING UTAS (6 in.), a le rt
a n d agile, i n h a b it trees, cliffs, a n d
rocky places, where they feed o n
insects. When q uiet, their skin
blends with the color of their sur
roundings.

COLLARED LIZARDS ( 1 4 in.)


b ite readily but a re harmless.
They i n habit mou ntain canyons;
are fairly common. Run o n hind
legs when frightened. Eat insects
a n d small l izards.

SHORT-H O R N E D L I ZARD (4
in.), called " Horned Toad," eats
a n ts and other sma l l insects. It is
illegal to remove this easily cap
tu red lizard from Arizona or
New Mexico.

8-LI N E D W H I PTA I L LIZARD


( 1 1 in.) and its kin are slender,
long-tailed lizards found at ele
vations up to 8,500 ft. Often
heard rustling among fa llen
l eaves. Feed on g rubs a n d insects.
LIZARDS OF THE DESERT
DESERT SP I N Y SWI FTS ( 1 0 i n .
long) have a rough-and-ready a p
pearance. T h e y usually freq u e n t
rocky or brushy coun try, often
c l i m b i n g sma ll trees. Eat insects,
especially a nts.

CHU CKWALLAS are Iorge ( 1 6


in. ), p l a n t-eating l i za rds, whose
edible fl esh was p rized by I n
dians. C h a n g e color somew h a t
w i t h l i g h t a n d temperature. U s e
t h i c k tail as c l u b i n defense.

WESTERN G R O U N D GECKO o r
BA N D E D G E C K O (5 i n . lon g ) .
w i t h fi n e scales a n d t h i n, trans
parent skin, s q u eaks when caught.
H i des by day, h u nts spiders a n d
i nsects at n i g h t . l a y s seve ral small
wh ite eggs a t one time.

W H I PTAIL LIZARDS (9 i n . ) or
RACE R U N N E RS, with mottled,
spotted m a r k i n gs, a re fou n d on
open h i l l sides and sandy washes.
Slender, short- l e g g e d . Common
i n deserts, under s h r u b s or loose
rocks.
SNAKES OF MO UNTAIN AND MESA

BLUE RACERS (4 ft.), related to


eastern Blacksnakes, often crawl
with head raised . They o re vari
able i n color, slender a n d agile,
often c l i m b i n g bushes a n d trees
after i nsects, lizards, and eggs.

GOP H E R SNAKES (5 ft.) resem


ble common Bull S n a kes of the
prairies i n appearance and hob
its, but occur up to 7,000 ft. i n the
Southwest. Feed o n rodents.

CAL I F O R N I A K I N G SNAKE (4
ft.), g lossy block, has bonds of
creamy wh ite in chain-like pot
tern . Found i n California a n d
Southwest; m a k e s docile p et.

WESTERN GARTER SNAKES (3


ft.) (three main grou ps) vary i n
color a n d markings. Common i n
moist places; emit fou l o d o r w h e n
caught. Eat fi s h , toads, worms.

HOG-NOSED SNAKE (3 ft.),


with upturned, shovel-like snout,
bu rrows for food. Prefers toads.
H isses a n d puffs up i n defense, or
p loys dead. Suita b l e as pet; it
practica l ly never b ites.
HARMLESS S NAKES OF T H E D ESERT

RED RACER (4 ft.), slender a n d


stron g relative af Blue Racer,
h u n ts in trees a n d shrubs. Color
varies from red-brown to dark
gray. Abroad i n daytime, it eats
i nsects, m ice, l iza rds, and b i rds.

LONG-NOSED SNAKES (2'12 ft.)


eat small m a m m a ls a n d sna kes.
Hunt at night; often killed by cars.
Long snout indicates burrowin g ;
otherwise l ittle is known of h a b its.

ARIZONA R I N G - NECKED
SNAKE ( 1 'h ft.) is one of the larg
est rin g-necks. Timid a n d retirin g ,
it occurs i n d esert mountains.
Sometimes called Th i m b l e or Red
Bell ied Snake.

FANGLESS or SPOTTED NIGHT


SNAKE ( 1 6 i n . ) l ives- like related
Fanged N i g h t Sna ke-in rocky lo
cations. Slig htly poisonous saliva
helps subdue sma l l m a m m a ls.

MOUNTA I N KING SNAKE (3


ft.) i n h abits Ponderosa Pine belt.
Kills sm a ll m a m m a l s and sna kes
by squeezi n g . May k i l l and eat
small rattlers, a lso birds a n d eggs.
Resemb les the more brilliant
Coral Snake.
POISONOUS S N AKES

WESTERN DIAMOND - BACK


RATTLESNAKES (5 ft.), aggres
sive and d a n g e rous, are widely
distrib uted on m esa a n d desert.
Rattle loudly when disturbed.
Contrast i n g pattern o n tai l . Eats
small m a m mals. You n g born a l ive.

PRAI R I E RATTLESNAKES (31fz


ft.), of at least six interm ixi n g
races, are c o m m o n i n d ry grass
l a n ds, often in prairie-dog tow ns.
Gather i n "dens" to h ibernate.

SIDEWI N D E R (2 ft.) travels i n


loose sa n d b y w i n d i n g or loopi n g
motion f r o m s i d e to side as it
h u n ts small rodents at n i g h t. Rare
ly seen d u r i n g day. A lso called
Horned Rattler for the h o r n l i k e
r i d g e over e a c h eye.

SONORAN CORAL S N A K E S
( 1 8 i n .), small, secretive, timid,
are related to cobras. Poison is
pote n t; could be deadly. N o one
bitten i n Southwest so far as
known. I d e n tified by small head
with black snout.

F I RST A I D F O R SNAKE BITE Most visitors to the Southwest never


see a rattlesnake. U-sh aped pattern of tooth m a rks i n d i cates non
poisonous bites; treat with a germicide. Double p u n cture of large fa ngs
may confirm bite by poisonous snake. Keep patient q uiet; send for
doctor. Place tourniquet between b ite a n d heart. Make V.-i n . X-cuts
with sterile razor blade through each fa n g p u n cture. Ma intain suction
to promote bleed i n g . loosen tourniquet b riefly at 20-m i n ute interva ls.
66
POISO N O U S CREAT U R ES

G I LA MONSTER (22 i n . ) is the only poisonous l izard in the U .S .


V e n o m is secreted i n l o w e r jaw beneath the teeth . Although u s u a l l y not
d a n gerous, Gila Monsters ca n twist their heads a n d bite q u ickly. They
should never b e h a n d led. livi n g i n hot, d ry desert fl ats or canyons,
they remain in shade by day under brush or loose rocks. Feed o n eggs,
mice, liza rds, young birds, rabbits.

TARANTULAS (body 1 -2 in.) are


feared because of size and ap
pearance. Rarely bite h u m a ns;
bite painful but not serious. J u mp
a nd-attack stories a re u ntrue.
Live i n small b u r rows.

DESERT CENTIPEDE (7 i n .), a


large species, h a s a poisonous but
not d a n gerous bite. Treat bite
with a ntiseptic to prevent infec
tio n . Widely distributed i n South- --._.,....
west.

BLACK WIDOW SPIDERS (1 i n .


over-a l l ) a r e poisonous a n d some
times deadly. Only females bite.
Call doctor if bitte n . Spiders make
webs i n dark corners, feed o n in
sects.

SCORPIONS ( 1 :5 in.) may be


deadly to small children, painful
to a d u lts. S h a k e bedding and
cloth i n g when camping. If stu n g ,
apply i c e a n d call doctor.
I NS ECTS

CARPENTER B E E S (112-34 i n .), re


sembling bl ue-black bumblebees,
b u rrow into d ry wood - timbers,
posts, telephone poles.
GREEN F R U I T BEETLES have
large size (3.4- 1 1/4 in.) and bright
metallic colors. They eat figs,
apricots, g rapes, other fruit.

TARANTULA HAWK (3.4- 1 112 i n .)


is a black-a nd-red or brown metal
lic wasp. Harmless to h u m ans, it
preys on spiders to feed its youn g .
YUCCA MOTH (112-34 in.), by pol
linating yucca flowers, assures
food for its you n g and seeds for
the yucca. It flies a t n ight.

WALKI NGSTI CKS (2-3112 in.),


usually wingless, are slow, twig
like. Feed on broad-leaved trees;
emit an odor offensive to birds.
I N SECTS
I nsects are everywhere and are especia l ly n umerous in
frost-free desert climates. More kinds of insects are known
than of all other a nima ls. Some are helpful to mankind;
others are injurious. Space permits only a brief introduc
tion to a few of the thousands of species found i n the
Southwest.

MAY BEETLES (1 in.) are robust, C I CADA ( 1 in.) a rouses cu riosity


brown insects whose buzzing flight with its shrill, vibrating song o n
around lights attracts attention in hot s u m m e r days. Many species i n
early summer. Southwest.

BOXE L D E R BUG, common WHITE-L I N E D S P H I N X MOTHS


around Boxelder trees, is sma l l (2V4-4 i n . wingspread), a lso called
('h i n . ) , fl a t . Y o u n g a re b r i g h t red. H u m m ing bird Moths, visit flowers
Bug inva des houses. at dusk, fearless of h u mans.

For more about insects read:


I N SECTS, Essig, The Macmillan Co., N . Y., 1 952.
I NS ECTS, Zim a n d Cottam, Simon a n d Schuster, N . Y . , 1 955.
I N SECT GUI D E, Swain, Doubleday, N. Y., 1 948.

69
FIRE ANTS (Vs in.) and some
others sting savagely. Apply hot
compresses a n d a m monia. Destroy
the nests with a soil fumigant.
BUMBLEBEES (1 in.) rarely sting .
Treat the p a i n f u l p u ncture a s
a bove. The biggest of t h e bees,
these make large n ests under the
g round .

YELLOW JACKETS <:Ys in.) usu


ally nest u n dergro u n d . They can
sting viciously. Treat wounds like
ant stings; destroy nests with care. H O N EYBEES (1,'2 in.) are bene
ficial pollen carriers. Many wild
colonies exist in Southwest. Sting
painful; in n u mbers they a re seri
ous; ca l l a doctor.

CONE-NOSED BUGS o r KI SS
I N G BUGS (V> in.) are parasitic
on wood rats. Bite can cause ill
ness and pain. Summon doctor;
apply hot Epsom salt packs.
70 POISONOUS I NS ECTS
Wild m a m m a ls of many kinds may be seen by watch
ful travelers. Beavers are increasing; e l k are making a
comeback; b lack bears occur in the mountains. I n national
parks a n d monuments, all mammals are protected in
natural surroundings for you to observe a n d photogra p h .
State a n d federa l wildlife refuges (see p. 1 49) assure pro
tection for a reservoir of ga m e species. Diseases, parasites,
food supply, a n i m a l and human enem ies, a n d other natu
ra l factors produce population cycles among anima ls. A l l
mamma ls, a n d plants or animals on which they feed, are
involved in that complex interaction of a l l life and its
environ ment which we ca l l the Ba lance of Nature.
For more about Southwestern mammals rea d :
A F I E L D G U I D E TO T H E M A M M ALS, B u rt a n d Grossenheider, H o u ghton
Mifflin Co., Boston, 1 952.
LIVES O F G A M E A N I MALS, Ernest Thompson Seton, C h a rles T. Bra nford
Co., Boston , 1 953 (6 vols . ) .
MAM MALS, Zim a n d Hoffmeister, Simon and Sch uster, New York, 1 955.
AN I MALS O F T H E SoUTHWEST DESERTS, Olin, South western Monu ments
Assoc., G l obe, Ariz., 1 954.
MAMMALS O F NORT H A M E R I CA, Caholane, The Macmi l l a n C o ., N . Y.,
1 947.
American Black Bear: Black, Brown, or Intermediate (200-400 lb.)
BISON or BUFFALO (right) (5-6
ft. high; to 1 ton), stoff of l ife for
early Plains Indians, was almost
exterminated in the 1 880's. Herds
n ow in wildlife refuges and na
tional pa rks (p. 1 49).

MULE DEER {left) (3-4 ft. high;


1 75-200 lb.), both desert and
mountain s.pecies, a r e n u m erous;
provide good h unting (p. 1 54 ) .
Wh ite-tailed Deer a lso are fou n d
i n many desert mountain ranges.

PRONGHORNS or ANTELOPE
(rig ht) seem to b e increasin g .
B a n d s may be s e e n in W Texas,
E New Mexico, a n d central Ari
zona . Dwellers of open g rass
lands, they are alert and fleet.

BIGHORN or M O U N TA I N
S H E E P (left} survive in rugged
mountain refuges, favored by iso
lation and adequate g rass a n d
browse. Poachers, pa rasites, a n d
w i l d bu rros are t h e i r enemies.
LARGE W I L D MAMMALS

MOUNTA I N LIONS or COU


GARS (left) (80-200 lb.; 6-8 ft.
long) ore la rge, powerful cats
that p rey on deer and l ivestock.
Wide-ra n g i n g but timid, they per
sist in rocky a n d scru bby cou ntry
d esp ite tra p p i n g and h u nting.

GRAY FOXES (right) (7- 1 3 lb.)


are p redators wh ich h e l p control
rodents. They are sometimes seen
at night in natio n a l p a rks, where
they have become a ccustomed to
people_ Smaller than Coyotes.

COYOTES (left) (20-50 lb.)


sometimes prey o n calves, lambs,
and pou ltry, but a lso help i n ro
dent control. They are the com
monest of Southwest predators,
often seen trottin g with tail down.

BOBCATS (right) ( 1 5-25 lb.; 30-


36 in. long), alert and stealthy,
a re a b road i n rocky, brushy coun
try day and ni gh t. They eat small
mammals, birds - occasiona l l y
calves, lambs, poultry_
SMALL MAMMALS OF T H E M O U NTAI N S
YE LLOW-H A I R E D P O R C U P I N E
(righ t) (25-3 0 i n . ) , is common,
clu msy; has q u i l l s on back and
tail. Feeds mainly on herbs and
i n ner bark of trees. Severa l races.

RELS ( 1 1 i n . ) b u rrow i n mountain


meadows a n d open slopes. Larger
a n d c h u n kier than chipmunks,
they have stripes from shoulder
to hip.

CHIPMUNKS {rig ht) (8 in.), viva


cious, active rodents of several
species, sca mper over wooded
and brushy slopes i n search of
fru its and insects. Five stripes
from snout to ta i l .

M A R M O T S or ROCKC H U C K S
{left) ( 2 5 i n . ) l i v e i n colonies i n
mou ntain meadows a n d hil lsides.
Their ca l l is a shrill w h istle . Active
all s u mmer, they h i bernate in
winter.
SMALL MAMMALS OF T H E MESAS
POCKET GOPHERS {left) (9 i n . )
a r e rarely see n . Their b u r rows,
dug i n search of roots, honey
comb g rassl a n d s and meadows.
Destructive; h a rd to control.

TUFTED-EARED SQU I R R E L S
(rig ht) are l a r g e ( 1 8 in.), h a n d
some, g ray i n h a bitants of Pon
de rosa Pine forests. Most fa mous
is the Kaibab S q u irrel of North
Rim, G ra n d Ca nyon.

PRAIRIE DOGS (left) ( 1 5 i n . ) are


c h u b by, short-ta iled rodents of
g rasslands. Once common, they
have been reduced by farming
a n d poiso n i n g . National a n d slate
parks p rovide sanctuaries.

BLACK - T A I L E D JACKRABBIT
(right) (20 in.) really a lon g-eared
ha re, is prolific, wary, fleet, a n d
a b l e to o b t a i n moisture f r o m food .
Pop u l ation fl u ctuates in cycles.
Destructive to crops.
SMALL MAMMALS OF THE DESERTS

KANGAROO RATS (right) ( 1 2


i n . ), a b road at night, have large
heads, long h i n d legs a n d tails.
Note their b u rrow mou nds. They
a l l the water they need from
food .

COAT IS (/eft) (4 ft.), of the rae


coon fami ly, have long, u pturned
snouts useful i n rooting for food.
Their lang tails are carried e rect.
Often travel i n bands of 30 ar
more.

K I T FOXES (righ t), small (30 in.),


with large ea rs, a re widespread
but rarely seen. Night h u nters,
th ey i nvestigate camps or search
far m ice and liza rds among rocks
and brush.

R I NGTAILS (left) (28 i n .) inhabit


caves and ledges, h u nting at
n i g h t far rodents. Catlike i n a p
peara nce, t h e y are related ta
raccoons. Eyes and ears are l a rge;
tails, long a n d banded.
PLANT L I F E

Next t o m a jestic scenery, it is t h e rich a n d varied p l a nt


l ife that ca ptures yo u r i nterest in the Southwest. Here
grow giant Pon derosa Pines and weird, dwarf cactuses.
lush a l pi n e meadows overlook barren, a l k a l i n e fl a ts. You
c a n n ot but m a rvel at the u n usua l a d a ptations of South
west p l a nts to their varied environments. Their bea uty is
a ppa rent, a n d i n m a ny p l a ces the pl a nt cover soothes a
harsh l a n dsca pe.
The fol lowi n g pages e m p h a size ty pica l p la nts of the
Southwest, using e l evation, a s represented by the m o u n
ta ins, mesas, a n d deserts, a s a k e y t o g r o u p i n g the
flowering p l a nts, s h r ubs, and trees. The cactuses and the
pl a n ts confused with them a re treated separately.
Time your Southwest visit to see m ost p l a nts in bloom.
Spring is b l ossom time on the desert. F l owers of mesas a n d
mountains a r e s h owiest after s u m mer rains. En joy fl owers,
ph otog raph them, b ut let them g row and mature their
seeds. W i l dflowers a n d other pla nts are protected i n a l l
natio n a l a n d state parks.
For more about fl owers read:
FLOWERS O F THE S O U T H W EST DESERTS, Dodge and J a nish, 1 95 2 .
F L O W E R S O F T H E S o U T H W EST M ESAS, Patraw and J a nish, 1 953.
fLOWERS O F THE S O U T H W EST MoU N TA I N S, Arn berger a n d Janish, 1 952.
(All a bove titles p u b lished by S.W. Monume nts Assoc., Globe, Ariz.).
M E ET THE N ATIVES, Pesman, Smith Brooks Co., Denve r, 1 947.
FLOWERS, Zim and Martin, Simon and Sch uster, N . Y., 1 950.
A TRAVELER's G U I D E TO R o A D S I D E W I L D fLOWERS, Taylor; Fa rrar, Straus,
a n d You n g , N. Y., 1 949.

PLANTS AND ANIMALS 77


COLORADO COLUM B I N E (2-3 HAREBELL ( 1 - 1 V2 ft.) is a deli
ft.) is o n e of many showy species cote, nodding b l u e bellflower
i n the Southwest. Bl ue-an d-white growing w idely i n cl usters o n
Columbine, stole flower of 1Colo o p e n mountain slopes a n d moist
rodo, blooms am ong aspens J u n e meadows. Blooms from J u n e to
to Ju ly. September.

WESTERN YARROW ( 1 2-20 i n . )


is a com mon mountain flower with
fi n ely divided leaves. Blooms from
J u n e to September on roadsides
a n d g rassy mea dows. I ndians use
it medicinally.

LEAFY-BRACT ASTER ('h-4 ft.), SKYROCKET GILIA ('h-2 ft.),


yellow-centered, with blue or p u r one of several common species
p l e petals, is com mon along with red, ora nge, or blue flowers,
roads, slopes, a n d i n forest blooms throughout the summer i n
meadows, August-September. the Ponde rosa Pine belt.

78 FLOWERS O F THE MOU NTAINS


R I CHARDSON G E R A N I U M (6- SHOOTINGSTAR (6- 1 8 i n . ) is a
18 i n . ) blooms April-October in h a ndsome flower of the prim rose
moist forest soiL Also called family g rowin g singly o r i n clumps
C ranesbill because of long beak o n stream b a n ks o r i n moist
o n seed capsule. Relative of east places. Blossoms June through
ern wood l a n d species. A u g ust.

S P R E A D I N G FLEABANE (4-20
i n . ) is often m ista ken for a n aster
but has many m o re petals o r rays.
Common and widespread o n low
e r slopes i n summer and autu m n .

COLUMBIA M O N KSHOOD (3-5 GENTIANS (6- 1 8 in.), Blue a n d


ft. ), ta l l , showy with deep b l u e, fringed, a re the q u e e n s of mo ist,
h e lmet-shaped fl owers, contains open meadows in late s u m m e r a n d
poisonous a l ka l oids. Prefers open, e a r l y fa l l . Roots h a v e s o m e me
moist p laces. Blooms J u n e-Sept. dici n a l va l u e .

FLOWERS O F THE MOUNTAINS 79


E V E N I N G P R IMROSES (4 i n .-4 LOCOW E E D , or M I LKVETCH, is
ft.), both w h ite- and yellow-flow one of m a n y sim i l a r species ( 1 -3
ered species, are common i n sum ft.). Pea-pod l i k e fl owers, w h ite or
mer a n d early fa l l . Blooms are cream to p u rp l e . Blossoms May
l a rge, loose, four-peta led. J u n e . Some poisonous to l ivestock.

GAILLARDIAS ( 1 -2 ft.) bloom CALA BAZI L LA G O U RDS, like


May-October along roadsides and striped bnl ls, develop from yel
o n sunlit flats among p ines. Showy low, squash-like flowers. Vine,
fl owers, called "firewheels." Two wide-spread in g (1 0- 1 5 ft.), has
common species. l a rge, fou l-smel l i n g leaves.

WILD Z I N N I A ('h-1 ft.) makes


golden patches on open flats,
J u ne-October. H a rdy resid ent of
d ry mesas. Garden Z i n n ias come
from Mexican species.

80 FLOWERS OF THE MESAS


BLAZ I N G-STAR (2-5 ft.) has 1 0- SNAKEWEED ( 1 - l 'h ft.) covers
petaled flowers on slender, rocky mesa tops with yel low
branching stems, open afternoons clumps i n late s u m m e r and fa l l .
May-A u g u st. C l i n g i n g leaves g ive U n palatable Ia l ivestock, i t s pres
the n a m e "Stickleaf." ence means overgrazed r a n g e .

GOLDEN CROWN BEARD (2-5 P A L M E R P E N STEMON ( 1 -3 ft.),


ft.) is the co m m o n yel low-cen o n e of many wester n species, has
tered, notch-peta led s u nflower flowers ra n g i n g from violet Ia
that fi l l s field and roadside. sca rlet. Common March-A u g u st,
Blooms late sp ring to November. often o n rocky h i l l sides.

ROCKY M O U N TA I N BEEPLAN
(3-5 ft.) th rives a l o n g roadsides
and fencerows, J u n e-September.
Crushed leaves smell bad; h ence
one other n a m e-Sk u nkweed.

FLOWERS OF THE MESAS 81


L U P I N E , h a ndsome
blue finger-leaved pea, h e l ps pro
duce the desert's gorgeous s p r i n g
d isplay. B l u ebon net, state flower
of Texas, a l so is l u p i n e ( 1 -3 ft.)

GOLDPOPPY or CALIFORNIA DESERT - MARIGOLD, with its


P O P P Y (4- 1 8 i n . ) , state flower of showy, l o n g-ste m m ed, yellow,
C a l ifo r n i a, covers the spring des wheel-sha p ed flowers, m a kes
ert with a cloth of gold afte r rainy b r i g h t golden patches a t road
winters. Mixes with l upine, Ow l sides and i n desert washes from
c l over, a n d o t h e r spring a n n uals. March to October ( 1 -2 ft.).

SACRED DATURA ( 1 -3 ft.) has


g ray-green leaves a n d l a rge,
wh ite, trumpet-shaped flowers,
which close i n s u n light. I ndians
used the n a rcotic seeds and roots.
82 FLOWERS O F THE DESERTS
its tissue-paper-like petals, is u n
palatable to livestock a n d i n d i
cates overgrazed range. Sap is
yellow and sticky.

W I LD-POTATOES ( 1 0- 1 8 i n . ) , SANDV E R B E N A S (3-8 i n . ) car


s o m e spiny, s o m e smooth, with pet roadsides and sandy flats in
g l o b u l a r fruits, are widespread i n s p r i n g . Fragra n t pink to p u r p l e
summer. Oth e r nig htshades a r e flowers g row i n masses o r m i n g l e
common o n m e s a s a n d prai ries. in the desert's gay calor patte r n .

B R I T T L E B U S H ( 2 -3 ft. ) is a b u n
d a n t on rocky slopes, flower i n g
f r o m Nove m b e r to M a y . Also
called l ncienso, a s d ried sop was
used a s i n cense i n early c h u rches
83
l1iibi
DESERT -SENNA ( 1 -2 f t - ) , w i t h
golden to bronze flowers, makes
a riot of color alo n g roadsides,
April-May. Woody seed pods,
n oisy when shaken, give local
name of Rattleweed.

F I LAREE (4-6 i n . ) is a natural ized P U R PLEMAT ca rpets desert sands


but widespread spring a n n u a L i n early spring with l a rge fl owers
Twisted s e e d stems, if moistened, o n small, l ow ( 1 -3 in.) pla nts.
u nwind and force the seeds i n to H a iry leaves make p l a nts appear
the soiL frosted.

PAPERFLOWER ( 1 - 1 V2 ft.) gets


its name from the thin, faded,
pe rsisting peta ls. S howy yel l ow
b lossoms cover the p l a n ts, often i n
d ry seasons when other flowers
a re absent.

84 FLOVVERS O F T H E DESERTS
CACTUSES
C a c t u s e s ( o r C a c t i ) a r e Weste r n
Hem isphere succulents abundant i n
the Southwest. From tiny Button Cac
tus to 1 0-ton Saguaro (suh-WAR
oh), they are recognized by fleshy,
leafless, green stems, often covered
with cl ustered spines. Two hundred
of the more than 1 ,200 s pecies of
cactus are native to the Un ited
States. C losest relatives are violets,
begonias, a n d passion flowers. Most
cactus fl owers are large, colorfu l,
and attractive. I ndians and desert
animals eat the fruits. Stem cells
store water after ra ins, and the
pla nts' orga ns are designed to pre
vent l oss of moisture. Some pla nts
withstan d 2 years of drought. Many
Southwestern plants with spines,
thorns, or sharp-pointed leaves a re
mistaken for cactuses. Four of them
are pictured on p. 90.
For more information o n cactuses rea d :
T H E C A C T I O F ARIZONA, Benson, U n iv. o f
Arizona Press, Tucson, 1 950.
THE CACTUS AND ITs H O M E, Sh reve, Williams
& Wilkins Co., Baltimore, 1 93 1 .
TH E fLoWER I N G CACTUS, Ca rlson, McGraw
H ill, N . Y., 1 954.
SAGUARO or GIANT CACTUS ORGAN PIPE CACTUS is fou n d
{20-40 ft.), limited to S Arizona, only i n Southwest. long { 1 0- 1 5
is one of the Southwest's "trade ft.) stems have m a n y smaller
marks." Arizo n a ' s state fl ower, it ridges. B l ossoms open at n i g ht i n
blooms i n May. Fruit edible. May.

SE N I TA CACTUS {4-8 ft.), a Mex NIGHT-BLOOMI N G C E R E U S {2-


ican species, has shorter, less 8 ft.) is d r a b but produces m a g n if
fl uted stems than Organ Pipe. I n icent, fragrant wh ite fl owers, each
U.S., fou n d o n ly i n Organ Pipe open for one night i n June or
Cactus Nationa l Monument. Also J u ly. Has a n i m m en se, beet- l i ke
called Whisker Cactus. root.

86 COLUM NAR OR LONG-STEMMED CACTUSES


C H R I STMAS CHOLLA (2-3 ft.) TREE C H O L LA ( C H O-yu h ) 3-
has long, thin joints, and g rows in 12 ft.) has loose branching joints
clumps. I t produces attractive, that cling to a nyone brushing
olive-sized red fruits, which ripen against them; hence the alternate
in December. na me, J um p i n g Cactus.

CANE C H O L L A S (3-8 ft.), of sev TEDDYBEAR C H O L LA, small (2-


eral species, are wid espread up 5 ft.), tree-like, prefers h illsides.
to 7,000 ft. Red- o r bron ze-flow Dense, silvery spines look wool ly.
ered species a re spectacu l a r, Fallen joints root. Flowers pale
Moy-J u ly. Persistent yellow fru its. yellowish-green.

C H O L LAS, O R LONG-J O I N T E D CACTUSES 87


BEAVERTA I L CACTUS (righ t)
has m agenta flowers April to
J u ne. Lowgrowing ( J . J lh ft.), it
lacks spines. Small dep ressions
g ive the flat joints a pocked ap
pea ranee.

E NGELMANN'S PEAR (/eft) ( l lh-


5 ft.) is the common, robust, yel
l ow.flowered Prickly Pear, wide
spread in the Southwest. Mahog
anycolored fruits, called "tunas,"
are edible w h e n ripe.

BLIND PEAR (righ t) is a n erect


( 1 -2 ft.) yellowflowered, spineless
cactus with tiny b a rbed, irritating
b ristles. Common i n the deserts of
S New Mexico a n d W Texas.

PURPLE TINGE PEAR (left) ( Ph


4 ft.), another h i g h desert species,
similar to Engelmann's, has pur
p l ish joints, especia l l y d u ring
d routh or cold weather. Yellow
fl owers of one species have bright
red centers.
88 P R I C K LY P EARS
BARREL CACTUSES (left) ( 1 -6 ft.)
are common i n d esert. large ones
like small Saguaros but with stout,
hooked spines. Several species
with p i n k, yellow, or ora n g e flow
ers bloom May to September.

P I N C U S H I O N CACTUSES (right)
are similar Ia Fishhook species
(below), but they are globular
and they g row singly or i n clus
ters. They have short, flatlying
spines.

H E DGEHOG CACTU S E S (left)


form low ( 1 -Ph ft.) clumps with
the u n branched, cucumber-shaped
stems. Flowers range from pink to
magenta. Some b l ossom os early
as March; most, later.

F I SH H O O K CACT U S E S (righ t)
a re small (2-1 0 in.). Several spe
cies produce tiaras of la rge, ex
q u isite, lavender to p u rple flow
ers in early summer. Slender,
cu rve-tipped spines resemble long
shanked fishhooks.
BLOC KY-ST EMM E D CACT U S ES 89
PLANTS C O N F U S E D WITH
C R U C I F I X I O N T H O R N S (rig ht)
are leafless, d e nsely thorned des
ert sh rubs (4-1 0 ft.) with green
bark. Similar a re Mohave Thorn
a n d Allthorn .

YU CCAS (YU H-kuhs) (left), n a r


row-leaf a n d b road-leaf, vary
from sma l l bushes to b u l ky trees;
belong to the l i ly family. Stiff,
sha rp-tipped l eaves and clusters
of creamy flowers.

OCOTILLO (oh -ko-TEE-oh) (rig ht)


is a thorny shrub with long (8- 1 2
ft.), w h ip-l ike, u n branched stems
tipped in April-May with bright
red flower clusters. Re-leafs after
rain.

CENTURY P L A N T S (/eft) form


low crowns of stout, spin e-tipped
leaves. After years of food stor
age, p l a n t p roduces 1 0- 1 5 ft.
flower stalk, then dies. I ndians
eat roasted bud sta l k .
TREES AND SH RUBS
The Southwest possesses over 50 m i l lion a cres of forested
land. Pinyon a n d juniper woodlands cover many mesas;
spruce, fir, and aspen clothe higher mountain slopes; a n d
desert watercourses a r e l i n e d with Mesq u ite thickets. The
Colorado Platea u supports extensive commercial forests
of Ponderosa Pine. Trees and shrubs grow at a l l elevations.
The n u m be r, type, and size vary with tem perature, m ois
l ure and topogra phy.
Vegetative cover is vita l in protecting watersheds, pro
viding food and shelter for animals, and giving people
l
h unting, fishing, a n d other recreational pleasures. Fire is
a major forest enemy. Extinguish your ca m pfires thor
ough ly, and put out a l l cigarettes and matches before
disca rding. I nsects and tree diseases sometimes spread
rapidly, destroying large areas of timber. Parasitic mis
tletoe is widespread, being very noticea b l e on junipers.
It can k i l l or seriously damage va l uable sta nds of com
m ercia l timber.
For m o r e a bout Southwest trees a n d s h r u b s reo d :
RoCKY MoUNTAIN TREES, Preston , Iowa State C o l i . Press, Ames, 1 947.
SOUTH W E STERN TREES, U.S. Dept. Agr., Agricultural H a n d book #9,
Govt. Prig . Office, Washington, D . C.,' 1 950.
TREES AND S H RU B S O F SouTH WEST DESERTS, Benson and Da rrow, U n iv. of
N . Mex. Press, A l b u q uerq ue, 1 954.
T R EES, Zim and Martin, Simon and Sch uster , N . Y., 1 955.

Juniper with Mistletoe Mistletoe


MOU N T A I N C O N I FERS

WHITE FIR (right) has a cone


shaped crown, short branches,
and flat, si lvery-green needles,
wh ich curve upward. Upright
cones a t top of tree. Common at
8,000- 1 1 ,500 ft., it may g row 1 00
ft. ta l l,

SPRUCES (left) (80- 1 00 ft.) form


dense sta nds usually o n north
slopes, extending u p to timber
line. Papery, pendent cones. Blue
Spruce is stale tree of Colorado.

DOUGLAS F I RS (right) are not


true fi rs. Timber trees, u p to 1 30
ft. ta ll, they are fou n d in South
west mou ntains u p to 1 1 ,000 ft.
Small ones are prized as Christ
mas trees.

P O N D E ROSA PINES (left) form


open forests. Trees, valued for
l u mber, g row 4 ft. through, 1 80
ft. high. Needles 5-7 i n . long,
clusters of 2 o r 3 . Cones robust.
MOUNTA I N CONI F E RS

LIMBER P I N E (left) has a broad,


open crown a n d long, p l ume-like
branches. Trees, 25-50 ft. h igh,
prefer ridges a n d open s u mmits
up to 1 2,000 ft. Needles 5 to a
cluster. H a n g i n g brown, th ick
scaled cones, 4 to 8 in.

ALP I N E F I R (rig ht) is a ta l l (40-


80 ft.), slender, spire-like tree
fou n d a lo ng a l p i n e meadows. At
timberline, dwarfed a n d twisted.
Cones, upright, are deep purple.

FOXTAI L or BRISTLECONE
PINE (/eft), a n alpine tree 30-40
ft. high, of irreg ular shape, often
g rows with spruces i n thin, rocky
soil. Need l es short, 5 i n a cl uster.

LOW J U N I P E R (right), a spread


i n g shrub, often g rows under al
pine trees. Foliage g ray-green,
sca le-like. Often used i n land
scaping.
MOU NTAI N SHRUBS
P O I S O N IVY (right) is f o u n d i n
moist canyons from 3,000 to
8,000 ft. N ote the three shiny
green leaflets. Look for it before
making camp. Wash affected skin
in stron g soapy water.

BUCKBRUSH (/eft) forms low (3-


ft.) thickets in pine forests. Deer
browse foliage. I n d ians eat ber
ries, make medicine from leaves.
White flowers open Apri l-October.

WESTERN THIMBLEBERRIES or
SALM O N B E R R I E S (rig h t) a re
raspberry-l i ke shrubs with large
white blossoms. Found i n p i ne for
ests or o n spruce-dotted slopes.
Birds eat the seedy fru its.

WATE R BIRCH (left), sometimes


of tree size, often forms dense,
shrubby thickets a l o ng streams.
Lustrous bronze bark, rounded
toothed leaves, a n d catkin-like
flowers a id identification. The
only native Southwest birch.
MO U NTAIN S H R U BS
ARIZONA M O U N T A I N A S H
(left), a n irreg u l a r s h r u b (6- 1 0
ft.) of Transition a n d C a n a d i a n
zones, rarely reaches t r: e e size .
Orange fruits a re eaten by birds.
Attractive; used i n l a ndscapi n g .

W I L D RASPBE R R I E S (rig ht), a n


cestors of c u l tivated species, th rive
i n moist, rich soil of p i n e a n d
spruce forests. Soft, r e d fruits en
joyed by m a n , beast, b irds.

C H O K E C H E R R Y (left) ( 1 5 t o 2 5
ft. ) may r e a c h t r e e s i z e a n d usu
a l l y forms thickets a l o n g streams.
This is a sacred plant of the Nov-.
a j o I nd i a ns. F r u its are eaten by
b i rds.

ALDE R-LEAF M O U NTAIN MA


HOGANY o r CERCOCA R P U S
(right) (4 I a 1 0 f t . ) i s recog n i zed
by fu zzy, twisted seed "tails." It
p refers open, d ry ridges in o a k or
wh ite fi r thic kets. Sometimes
b rowsed by deer.
ALDERS (right) sometimes g row
to a height of 60 ft. and a tru n k
diameter of 3 ft., a lways i n moist
locations. Seve ral species g row in
mountains of the Southwest.
Mountain alder ( i l l ustrated ) is
com m o n .

QUAKING A S P E N S {left), m is
taken for birch beca use of their
wh ite bark, take over mounta i n
sides after forest fires. The leaves,
o n slender, flattened sta l ks, be
come a rich golden-yellow i n au
tumn.

PEACHLEAF WI LLOW (right),


fo und i n m oist locations, occasio n
a l l y g rows to a h e i g h t of 30 ft.
Other Sou thwest w i l l ows o re also
shrubs o r small trees.

ROCKY MOUNTAIN MAPLE


(lef t) , fou nd o s h i g h as 9,000 ft.
o n moist h i l lsides, is sma l l (rarely
over 20 ft. ) . These maples a re
conspicuous in autu m n as leaves
turn scarlet.

96 MOUNTAIN BROADLEAFS
UTAH J U N I P E R {left), i n p u r e
stands or w i t h Pinyon P i n e , marks
upper Sonora n life zone. Rarely
20 ft. high. Used for fence posts
or k i n d l i n g . Commoner i n Arizona
a n d Nevada than New Mexico.
Fruits p u r p l e to brow n i s h .

ROCKY MOUNTAIN J U N I P E R
(rig h t), a lso c a l l e d Colorado Red
Cedar, is widesprea d . Drought
resista nt, irreg u l a r, low-branch
ing, 20-40 ft. high, it has fi brous
bark, blue fru its, typ ically sca ly
leaves.

O NE-SEED JUNIPER (left),


ranging into Mexico, is a small,
spreading s h r u b or tree ( 1 0 to 25
ft.). Fru its are b l u ish or coppery
with seed sometimes exposed.
Foliage sca le-like.

ALLIGATOR J U N I P E R (rig
has furrowed, p laty bark l i ke all i
gat o r skin. Trees g row slowly.
Large specimens, 30-50 ft. high,
trunks. u p to 3 2 i n ., may be 500-
800 years old. Red-brown fruit.

J U NIPERS - T R E ES O F M ESALA N D 97
PINYON PINES The pungent odor of P i nyon ( P I N
y o n ) s m o k e is a cherished memory t o c a m pers a n d o l d
t i m e r s . P i nyon w o o d was u s e d f o r fuel by P u e b l o I n dians
and by c l iff dwe l lers before them. It was used by the
S pa n ish and i s sti l l po p u l a r . Pinyon n uts, the seed of these
pin es, furnish food for w i l d l ife, a s we l l as for some I n
d i a n s ; Nava jos travel m a n y m i les t o h a rvest t h e m after
the cones open, September-October. Buy them at tra d i n g
posts. The th ree s pecies o f Pinyon P i n e a re easily recog
n ized by the n u m ber of needles i n a b u n d l e . The S i n g l eleaf
Pinyon g rows i n N eva da and Uta h . The Colorado P i nyon
(two need les) is w i desprea d throughout the u pper Sonoran
zone. T h e Mexican Pinyon (th ree need les) ranges i nto
western Texas a n d southeastern Arizona. P i nyons may
g row i n pure sta n d s but often mingle with j u n i pe r s a n d
scrub oaks. They m a y reach a height o f 3 0 t o 5 0 ft. T r u n ks
a r e s hort a n d tw isti n g , a n d the crowns of o l d e r trees a re
sprea d i n g a n d b r a n c h e d . Wood is wea k, b r ittle, a n d
coarse-g r a i n e d . P i nyon is the state tree o f both Nevada
a n d New Mexico.

-------

Singleleaf Pinyon Pine Colorado Pinyon Pine

98
I N LAND BOXELDER (left), some
times 50 ft. ta ll, is a maple.
Short-lived; subject to storm dom
oge. Used os a shade tree, for it
g rows rapidly, even i n poor soil .
Th ick, ha iry, compound leaf, with
th ree coarsely toothed leaflets.

NEW MEXICO LOCUSTS (right)


( 1 5-25 ft.) form thickets olong
foothi l l streo ms or with ooks on
dry slopes. Sometimes planted as
a n a i d in erosion control. Rose
colored, pea-like blossoms, i n
d roop i n g clusters, o p e n i n May
J u ne .

NARROWLEAF COTTONWOOD
(/eft) a n d other cottonwoods
(50-75 ft. h i g h ) border streams
a n d washes on mesas a n d in can
yons. Cammon throughout South
w<>st, these species are widely
planted far shade.

GAM BEL-OAK (rig h t) ( 1 5-35 ft.) ,


with l o b e d leaves a n d s c a l y bark,
is the common scrub oa k af the
mesas, g rowing alone o r forming
thickets with locusts a n d p inyons.
W i l d li fe eat the acorns i n winter.

BROADLEAF TREES O F T H E M ESAS 99


S H RUBS O F T H E M ESA
UTAH SERV I C EBERRY (rig ht) (5-
1 2 ft.) is widespread o n mesas
and footh i lls. Attractive w hite
flowers open i n April-May. Birds
a n d I nd i a n s h a rvest the sma l l
j u icy fruit; d e e r browse on l eaves.

B I G SAG E BRUSH (left) (3-7 ft.),


famous in song and story, occu rs
o n Southwest mesas but is more
common to the north. Note
toothed leaves, s h reddy bark, a n d
tiny yellow flowers i n fal l .

RABBITBRUSH (right) (2- 1 0 ft.;


several species) may be mistaken
for sagebrush except i n Septem
ber, when the coarse shrubs ore
covered with small, yellow, ill
sme l l i n g flowers.

APACHE P L U M E (left) (3-6 ft.)


affords browse for deer and l ive
stock. White flowers in May, fol
lowed by p l umed seed heads, a id
identification. Helpfu l as a soi l
binder.
TREES O F THE DESERT
TESOTA or D E SERT IRON
WOOD (/eft) (20-30 ft.), once
com mon, has been decim ated by
use as fi rewood . Bears masses of
lavender flowers i n May. Edible
seeds.

Y E LLOW PALOVERDE (rig ht),


with golden spring blooms a n d
g r e e n b a r k , is c o m m o n a l o n g des
ert washes. Rarely 30 ft. ta ll, it is,
l i ke Mesq u ite, a member of the
pea family.
1$
CATCLAW ACACIA (/eft) ( 1 0-20
ft.) bears fuzzy yellow flowers
April to October. I t forms dense
th ickets o n poor, d ry canyon soils.
C u rved thorns g ive it the name
Wait-a-M i n u te Bush .

MESQUITE ( mess-KEET) (rig ht;


thickets line d esert washes. Trees
( 1 5-25 ft.) h ave spiny twigs, deli
cate l eaves, fragrant yellow flow
ers (Apri l-May), a n d bean-like
fruit pods.
TREES OF T H E DESERT
D E S E RTWI LLOW (rig ht) ( 1 2-30
ft.), relative af Catalpa, is a
s h r u b or s m a l l tree covered i n
s u m m e r with orch id-co lored flow
ers. Long, slender seed pods;
very n a r row, la nce-shaped leaves.

TAMARISK {left) (sever a l natu


r alized species) is sprea d i n g rap
idly as a pest tree alo n g water
courses. I t e n d u res a l ka l i n e sails
and bears p l u me-like p i n k flower
cl usters i n spri n g .

ARIZONA CYPRESS (right), a


bea utiful everg reen (50-60 ft.),
has d roop ing, g raceful b ranches.
I t is fou n d i n canyon bottoms or
on north slopes of desert mou n
tains south into Mexico.

ARIZONA SYCAMORE {left)


(60-80 ft.), with wh ite, splotched
trunks and sprea ding lim bs, g rows
alo n g streams in d esert m o u n
ta ins. Soil-bi n d i n g roots retard
Blooms i n Ap ril-May.
S H R U B S O F THE D ESERT
CREOSOTEBUSH (left) (4- 1 1 ft.)
is so widespread that it co mmon-
ly marks the lower Sonoran zone.
Small yellow flowers, fuzzy w hite
fruits, and g lossy, paired, m u sty
smel l i n g leaves. Twi g s resinous;
leaves "va r n i shed" to reduce
evaporatio n .

SALTBUSH (right) (2-4 ft.), often


m ista ken for sagebrush of h i g h e r
elevations, g rows i n a l k a l i n e soils.
Na rrow, g rayish l eaves. Produces
clusters of p a pery, 4-winged
fru its.

MORMON-TEA (left) (2-4 ft.)


g rows o n mesas as well as i n
deserts. Dried, the leafless stems
made a tasty brew for early set
tlers. I nconspicuous yellow s p r i n g
flowers attract i n sects.

W O L F B E R R Y (righ t) (3-6 ft.) is


a stiff, thorny, w i nter-bloom i n g
s h r u b often beco m i n g dormont i n
summer. S m a l l, tomato-l i k e fruits
ore eaten by birds and gathered
by I n d ians.
SH RUBS OF THE DES ERT

MESCALBEAN or CORALBEAN
(right) (4- 1 5 ft.), stout, has glossy
green leaves and wisteria-like
flowers. Woody seed pods hold
3-4 bright red, poisonous seeds.

J O J OBA (ho-HO-b a h ) (left) i s a


h a n dsome, broad-le aved eve r
g reen (3-6 ft. ) a b u n d a n t on dry
slopes. An excellent browse p l a n t,
with acorn-like fruits which were
eaten by I n d i a n s.

FAIRYDUST E R (rig ht), a sprawl


ing, fi ne-leafed shrub ( 1 -3 ft.). is
common o n d ry slopes. Palatable
to deer a n d valuable as a soil
b i n d e r, it blooms from March to
May.

SMOKETREE (left) (4- 1 2 ft.)


g rows i n sandy washes below
1 ,000 ft. I n digo flowers and slen
der, g ray, d roop i n g , leafless
branches make it especia l l y at
tractive i n April a n d May.
San Francisco Peaks Near Flagstaff- H i g h est Point in Arizona

T H E G EOLOG ICAL STORY

The Southwest a s a l a n d began perhaps two b i l l ion years


ago when the earth's c rust formed. Rocks at the b ottom
of Grand Canyon are over a b i l l ion years old. For about
500 m i l l io n years, m uc h of the present Southwest was
under s h a l low seas, and the deep sedi m e n ts that piled
u p were slowly com pressed into rock. The l a n d rose and
was submerged a g a i n a n d a g a i n . For the past 1 00 m i l l io n
years, m ost of the Southwest has b e e n a bove water.
Erosion wore down mountains, fi l li n g v a l l eys w ith the
debris, w h ic h was b u ried deep and h a rdened i nto rock.
The g reat Rocky Mountain mass was pushed up, and huge
volcanoes spewed lava a n d c i n ders over h u ndreds of
square m i les. W h i l e those building processes were at
work, r a i n , w i n d , rivers, a n d ice were c utti n g away rock,
wea r i n g down va l l eys, gouging out canyons, and s h a p i n g
the Southwest i n to t h e breath-taking scenery you see to
day. As pa rt of this story, the geolog ica l h istory of the
Southwest is outlined on pp. 1 06- 1 07.

For more about rocks and earth h i story rea d :


PHYSIOGRAPHY O F W E S T E R N U .S., F e n n e m a n , McGraw-H i l l , N . Y., 1 93 1 .
D o w N T O EARTH, C roneis a n d Krumbein, U n iv. o f C hicago Press, 1 936.
M I N ERAlS, Zim and Cooper, Ha rcou rt, Brace and Co., N . Y., 1 947.
T H E RocK B o o K , Fento n and Fenton, D o u bleday & Co., N. Y., 1 950.
A N C I E N T LAN DSCAPES OF THE GRA N D C A N Y O N R E G I O N , Mc Kee, 1 952.

G EOLOGY 1 05
T H E STORY OF T H E EARTH
C h a racteristic Life o f M a j o r E v e n ts
P e r i o d i n S o u thwest of This T i m e
Man come from Asia, us Activities of m a n , espe
ing tools, language, and cially agricu ltural,
b u i l d i n g a social syste m . changed the surface of
Recent:
Ground S l o t h , Mammoth, the ear't h . C l i mate c o l d .
Saber-Toothed Cat, and G l aciers a d v a n c e and re
Ple istocene 2 other m a m m a l s . cede.

Cen ozo i c : Deve lopment o f flower ing Great period of m ountain


Pliocene 12 p l ants. Mammals became building. Rocky Mts.
Miocene 30 i m portant and spread pushed u p . Vo lcanoes i n
O l igocene 40 over land and into sea. R o c k y Mt. area. Much
Eocene 55 Early h orses and came l s . erosion . C l i mate became
Paleocene 60 mild.

Mesozoic: Backboned animals L a s t great spread of the


Cretaceous 1 30 spread on land. Age of seas. C l i mate became
J urassic 1 68 Rept i l e s marked by d i n o coo l . Period of erosion,
T riass i c 200 s a u r s . F irs t birds a p with s h a l low seas cover
peared. land plants, such i n g small basins. land
a s cycads, palms, and often flooded . and very
s i m p l e con ifers, deve l swa m p y .
oped.

PaiHHic : Mosses and ferns became C l i mate cold, w i t h g l a c i


Permian 235 abundant o n land, a s a t i o n . l a n d s l o w ; seas
P lltlnllf' lvanian 315 plants and animals a nd swamps spread, with
Mlssinlpplan 330 spread farther i n seas. a l tern ate flood i n g a n d
Devonian 350 F i rst backboned a n i m a l s e r o s i o n . Th ick sed i ments
S i l urian 375 ( fi s h ) a ppeared. Amphib deposited. N o mountain
Onlovicion 445 i a n s a n d reptiles deve l bui lding.
Cambrian 550 oped.

Proterozoic : F i rst c lear and direct evi G r e a t e r u p t i o n s , h uge


Keweenawan BOO dence of simple life in lava flows, and intrusive
Huronian 1 ,050 the sea-algae, bacteria , activity. Mountains up
Temiskaming 1 ,200 a n d protozoa ns. l i fted and worn away.
G l aciation.

Arch-ku I nd i rect evidence of sun Earth ' s cr ust gradu a l l y


Laurentian 2 ,000 sh i n e, r a i n , wind, clouds, formed; continents a n d
to oceans, rivers, a n d earth ocea n s developed. Con
KMwatln 3 ,000 movements. N o certa i n tinuous volcanic action.
evidence of l ife.

1 06
I N THE SOUTHWEST

Where These Geological Formations


May Be Seen
Principa l l y volcanoes and sand d unes.
San Francisco Volcanic Field. Near
Grants, Carrizozo, and Raton, N.
Mex. W h i te Sands, Great Sand Dunes,
Big Bend, Bandel ier, Tonto, Petrified
Forest, Lake Mead, and. Death Valley.

G reat Sand Dunes, Petrified Forest,


C h i ricohuo, Organ Pipe Cactus, Tonto,
B l ack Canyon of the G u n n i son, B a n
delier, Lake Mead, D e a t h Val ley, B i g
Bend, B r y c e C a n y o n , C e d a r Breaks,
and many other places.

Mesa Verde, Big Bend, Tonto, C a pu l i n


M t . , C h i r icahua, Death V a l l e y , Rain
bow Bridge, A.ches, Black Canyon of
the Gunnison, Navajo, Capitol Reef,
Cedar Breaks, Petrified Forest, Grand
Canyon, Zion, Canyon de C h e l l y ,
C o lorado N at. Mon . , and m a n y other
l ocations.

C a r lsbad Caverns, Big Bend, Grand


Can y on, Lake Mead, Canyon d e
C h e l l y , Walnut C a n y o n , Natural
B r idges, Organ Pipe Cactus, Death
V o l ley, a n d many other locations.

Death Va l le y , Great Sand Dunes, Or


gan Pipe Cactus, Tonto, Lake Mead,
Grand Canyon, B lack Canyon of the
G u n n ison, C h i ricahua, C olorado Nat.
M o n., and other locations.

Great Sand Dunes, Chiricahua, B lack


Canyon of the G u n n i son, Lake Mead,
Grand Canyon, and some other places.
A N C I E N T L I F E I N T H E SOUTHWEST has been traced
back for over 500 mil lion years. The first simple l ife was
i n the sea. More spectacular have been the backboned
animals l iving here during the last 200 m i l lion years. These
have incl uded fish, amphibia ns, reptiles, and m a m m a ls.

T I TANOTHERES - large, extin ct E RYOPS, a heavy, S.ft .. long am


mammals related to early horses p h ibian, is fou nd i n Permian beds
a n d rhinoceros. Ma ny species i n of Texas. A ' marsh dweller, with
North America; t h i s one from strong, sturdy l egs well adapted
Death Valley Oligocene rocks. for life on land.

MAMMOTH was one of the wide CEP HALASPIS, a n a rmored De


spread hairy elephants of Pleisto vonion fish, grew 1 2 ft. long
cene times. Defin ite evidence ex (some kinds larger). Ty.p ical de
isis that early man h u nted these scendant of fi rst bockboned a ni
iceage beasts. m als. Fossils from Colorado.

TYRAN NOSAURUS, of the Cre


taceous period, was 20 ft. h i g h .
N o t the la rgest dinosau r, it was
the most fearsome, with g reat
claws and teeth.
Numerous din osaur remains have been fou n d in western
North America, among them some of the largest known.
Dinosaur tracks, remains of their skeletons, and fossils of
other sea and land animals and early plants may be seen
in local m useums in the Southwest.

GROUND SLOTH was a h uge, GL YPTODONTS, contemporaries


clu msy plant-eater of the Pleisto af the Grou n d S l oth, i n cl uded t h is
cene. Bones, skin, dung, and hair heavily armored a n d a rmed rela
have been fou n d in caves, some tive of the Armadillo, 8 to 1 0
near h u m a n remains. ft. long. Once w i d espread .

P H YTOSAURS, reptiles of croco E O H I P P U S (ee-oh-H I P-us), first of


dilian appearance, were common the h orses, h a d toes instead of
in the Triassic. Not a ncestors of h oofs. About the size of a small
living crocodiles. Probably fish dog. Common on Southwestern
eaters. p ra iries in Eocene time.

MOSASAURS, marine lizards,


1 5-20 ft. long, raved shallow
C retaceous seas. Many species,
mainly fish-eaters, occur in Texas
chalk beds.

1 09
Specime s of Petrified Wood

P ET R I F I E D WOOD occurs widely. Spectacular deposits


are fou n d in the Southwest (see p. 1 27). H ere, 1 60 to 1 80
m i l lion years ago, grew huge forests of Araucaria Pines.
Ma ny trees decayed where they fell, b ut some were car
ried away by streams to be stranded and later buried in
sand, m ud, or volcanic ash. Deposits 3,000 ft. thick ac
cum u lated over them when sha l low seas covered the
region. Through compl icated natura l processes the wood
cells were infiltrated with silica-bearing water. Cell struc
ture, a n n u a l rings, and other features of the original wood
have thus been retained in the agate that formed. Sil ica
is colorless, b ut traces of iron, manganese, and other min
era ls gave it shades of yel low, bl ue, red, and brown. The
petrified logs lay b uried for mil lions of yea rs. U p l ift of
the region when the Rocky Mountains were formed ac
celerated erosion, a n d the petrified trunks were u ncov
ered; many of them were cracked into uniform lengths by
earth tremors. Some agatized wood takes a beautif u l
polish and is used in jewelry.

1 10
ROCK A N D M I N ERAL WEALTH has colored the South
west's past and hel ped make the region, including its
marvelous scenery, what it is today. Rocks are natura l
materia ls form ing the earth's crust. Minera ls are chemical
elements or inorganic compounds found in nature. Most
rocks are com posed of minerals. By studying rocks, scie n
tists l e a r n of conditions that preva iled at the t i m e these
m ateria ls were formed. Minerals a re a source of valuable
meta ls a n d nonmeta l l ic chemical compo u n ds.

FOOL'S GOLD (iron pyrites)


{left) is i ron sulfide, common in
veins. H a rd and brittle, it fools
a mate u rs b u t not m i ners. Occa
sionally foo l ' s gold is associated
w ith gold deposits.

CALCITE (rig h t), calcium carbon


ate, in many forms, accompanies
oth er minerals i n veins. I t is fou n d
as c l e a r o r tinted crystals. Dis
solves with b u b bles in wea k acid.

GYPSUM {left), calcium su lfate,


is often found in cloy a s single o r
fish-tailed crystals o f selenite. Also
common as soft, w h ite layers i n
s o m e sediments formed under a r i d
conditions.

T U R Q U O I S E (rig ht), fou n d in


veins i n arid la nds, is the gem
sto ne of the Southwest. Long
p rized by I nd i a ns, it is now sold
widely i n j ewel ry. Beware of
cheap stones and i m itations.

111
Chalcedony Moss Agate Jasper
QUARTZ, or sil ica, wor l d 's most common m ineral, occurs
in sand, sandston e, and other rocks. Milky Quartz fi l ls
veins, may i ndicate presence of gold. Crysta ls of q u a rtz,
a lways 6-sided, are found in rock cavities. Smoky Quartz
is gray to black; Amethyst, purple. Jasper, agate, cha lced
ony (kai-SED-nee), and fl i nt a re noncrysta l l i ne. O pa l
contains water, never forms crysta ls; i t may b e colorless or
have rainbow tints. Cha lcedony is tra nsl ucent, waxy, usu
a l ly gray or d u l l ; it l ines cavities or forms concretions.
Moss Agate is l ig ht-colored tra nsl ucent or clouded agate
with included dendrites, suggesting moss. Jasper is opaque
cha lcedony, yel l ow or brown with bands or irreg u l a r
m a rkings. Mason a n d l l a n o Counties, Tex., contain nearly
1 00 different gem materia ls, incl uding quartz forms. Gem
Village, 1 8 m iles east of Dura ngo, Colo., is the center of a
rich rock-col l ecting territory.
For other Southwest gem localities see GEM H U NTERS' G U I D E, Macfal
la n d Chagnon, Science and Mechanics Publish ing Co., Chicago, 1 953.
Rose Quam . . .

.a

il
ORES of the Southwest have yielded many m i llions of
dollars in precious and useful meta ls. Mining brought
people to the Southwest, a n d it is sti l l a n im portant indus
try, though activity fluctuates with dema nd. Gold, copper,
lead, silver, zinc, u r a n i u m , va n a d i u m , a n d wo lfra m a re
the m a j o r m etals. N o n m eta l l ic prod ucts i n c l ude feldspar
fluorite, coa l, pumice, gypsum, bentonite, asbestos, su lfur,
m ica, potassium, sand, and g ravel. Petroleum and natura l
gas a re a lso of first rank.

Z I N C O RE, spha lerite, zinc sui LEAD ORE, ga lena, is lead sui
fide, is yellow to dork brown, fide, a b rittle, h eavy, silvery min
g lossy, shiny. Occurs i n veins, era l . I n the Southwest, galena
often with galena . This zinc ore often contains silver. Other lead
slowly changes into other zinc ores form from galena by action
minerals. of a i r a n d water.

SILVER is sometimes fou n d as the GOLD, not of g reat importa nce


native elemen t, more often a s i n the Southwest, is heavy, soft,
argentite, a silversu lfur com and yellow. In most gold ore, the
pound. In the Southwest, silver gold is min ute. C h a nces of fi n d i n g
occurs with lead and zinc o res. visible gold ore remote.
ROCKS A N D M I N ERALS 1 13
COPPER, used since a ncient
times, is importan t in the South
west, where the great open-pit
m ines are world-famous. Copper
sometimes occurs as the soft na
tive meta l . Most i m portant of the
Azurite a n d M a l a c h i te
Southwest ores, m a lachite (green)
and azurite (b l ue) are often fou n d
together and a r e occasionally of
gem q u a l ity. Chrysocolla, a com
pound of copper a n d silica fou n d
with q uartz a n d resembling tur
q uoise, is sometimes used for jew
elry. Chalcopyrite, an ore of cop
Chrysocolla Chalcopyrite
per, s u lfur, and iron, is similar to
iron pyrites (p. 1 1 1 ) but is yel-
l ower.
U RAN I U M ORE may contain u p
to about half its weight in urani
um. The soft, crumbling, yellow
ish ore, carnotite, has long been
known in the Southwest and is
now mined in the "Four Corners"
Carnotite area. Few deposits are rich; the
search for richer ones continues.
FLUORITE, or calcium fl uoride, is
used in the steel, a l u m in u m , a n d
chemical industries. It occurs a s
yellow, g reen, b l ue, and purple
masses in sedimentary rocks a n d
in o r e veins. C u b i c crystals are
common. Too soft for gem use, flu
Fluorite
orite is carved for l a m ps a n d
ornaments.
1 14 ROCKS AND M I N ERALS
S E D I M E N TARY ROCKS a re the
commonest of the rocks that form
the basic structure of the e a rth's
s u rface. They a re m a de of debris,
or o rg a n ic o r chemica l deposits.
Some are coa rse, but commoner in
the Southwest is sa n dstone, made Sandstone

in a ncient deserts, l a kes, and seas


of cemented g ra i n s of s a n d . Shale
i s a h a rdened m u d stone. lime
stone, widely de posited and usu
a l ly fi ne-grained, w a s formed
from r e m a i n s of shellfish or
through c h e m i c a l action i n s h a l
low seas. I n t h e d ry Southwest i t
Limestone
caps s o m e mesas a n d p latea us.

M ETAMO R P H I C ROCKS are


formed w hen sedimentary or ig
neous rocks ( p p. 1 1 6- 1 1 7) are
a ltered by heat or pressure.
They a r e found i n Southwest
mounta i n s a n d ca nyons. Sch ists
are a ltered rocks that usua l ly Gneiss

s h i n e with m ica a n d show con-


torted b a n d s resulting from the
pressures u n de r which the rocks
were formed. G neiss ( pronou nced
N I CE) is meta mor phosed g r a n ite,
s h a le, or s a n dstone in which less
mica formed d u r i n g the c h a n ge.
S h a l e may turn i nto s l ate, lime
Schist
stone i n to marble, san dsto n e i nto
q ua rtzite, when meta morphosed.
ROCKS A N D M I N ERALS 1 15
I G N E O U S ROCKS are m ore wide
spread i n the West than e lsewhere.
They form from materia l in or be
neath the earth's cr ust which be
comes molte n . This thick l i q u i d (mag
Granite ma) varies chem ica l l y a n d produces
different rock types. If it cools slowly
within the earth's su rface, it c rysta l
l izes i nto m i n e r a l s , i n c l u d i n g ores.
Gran ite, usua l ly made of fe ldspar,
qua rtz, a n d mica, is such a rock. Dia
base, conta i n i n g more of the dark
m i nera l s, is common i n the forma
tions k n own as d ikes a n d s i l ls. If
Dia base lava pours out onto the eart h 's sur
face and cools fa st, rocks formed
are fi n e-gra ined. Most resu lt from
volcanoes and a re ha d to identify.
Lig ht, pink, g ray, or ye l l ow fi ne
grained ones are c a l led felsite. Ob
sidian, g l a ssy b l a c k or brow n ish, is
lava that cooled fast. G l a ss b u b b les
i n lava may m a k e a froth that cools
Felsite
as pum ice, so l ig h t that it floats.
Common black lava, basa lt, occ urs
widely i n many forms.

Obsidian Pumice Basalt

1 16 ROCKS AND M I N E RALS


Active Volcanoes Were Once N u m erous in the South west

VOLCAN O E S A N D LAVA FLOWS dot the Southwest.


O n l y rem n a nts rem a i n of o l d v o l c a n i c fi e l ds, but recent
volca n oes reta i n their orig i n a l structure. C i n der cones
are c o m m o n , a s are l a rger volcanoes m a d e of m ixed
c i n ders a n d lava, such a s those of the San F r a n cisco
Mounta i n s near F l a g staff, Ariz. Recent lava fl ows look
like frozen rivers of black basa lt. Others, much o l der,
form the hard ca ps that h a ve protected g reat stretches
of land from erosion and today form the da rk-ca pped
b uttes, mesas, and ta b l e l a n d s . (See p . 1 3 1 . )

Major Volca n i c Fields


1 San Francisco 7 C h iricahua
2 Dati i-Mt Taylor Mountain
3 Spanish Peaks- 8 Death Va l ley
Capulin 9 Pinacate
4 Mt. Trum b u l l 10 Dav i s Mounta i n
5 Carrizozo 1 1 H igh P l ateau
6 Jemez Mountain 1 2 Hopi B uttes and
Navajo

NATURAL F EAT U R E S 1 17
Mesa

Mountains Formed by Erosion

Mountains Formed by Folding and Thrust-fa ulting

B loc k-faulting
MOUNTAIN MAKING involves complex processes w e l l
i l l ustrated i n t h e Southwest. Vo l c a n ic m o u n ta i n s a r e n u mer
o u s (see p. 1 1 7) . Where i m m e nse a reas were eve n l y l ifted,
rivers c a rved wide va l l eys, leaving b uttes a n d mesas.
Squeezi n g and fol d i n g pressures forced o l der layers u p,
sometimes pushing them over yo unger ones. Terrific te n
sions produced jagged breaks in the e a rth's c rust, a n d
h u g e b l ocks were l ifted a n d tilted. C h iseled by erosion,
b lock-fa u l t m o u nta i n s form the rugged b a s i n - a n d - r a n g e
topogra phy of western Uta h a n d eastern Neva d a . The
Rocky Mounta i n s represent up-bulging of a g re a t rock
co m p lex. Erosion has stripped off the covering l ayers,
whose ti lted stu m ps a re the hog-back footh i l l s pa r a l l e l i n g
b o t h s i d e s of the hard core-the Rockies proper.
1 18 NATURAL F EATU R ES
Gooseneck of San Juan River, Southeastern Utah

EROSION, T H E GR EAT LAN D SC U L PTOR Water,


wind, frost, a n d gravity have ca rved a n d sha ped the
Southwest i n a s low, never-ending process. Mountains
have been reduced to plains, though lavas a n d hard sedi
mentary rocks protect the o lder u plands. Soft shales and
clays have been carved intricate ly, as i n Bryce Canyon,
and have been fl ushed from beneath harder layers that
have broken off to form c liffs. Water, fortified with gravel,
is the principa l agent wearing down and carrying away
land. Where land has been consistently rising, the cutting
power of streams is mainta ined in their origi n a l channels.
Classic exam ples are the Grand Canyon of the Colorado
and "goosen ecks" of the San Juan. Such activities as clear
ing of land accelerate erosion in many areas.
Camel Rock, North of Santa Fe
W H AT TO S E E A N D DO

Everywhere you look, there's something to see. The next


pages spotl ight im portant attractions, from citrus groves
to trout streams, from cactus deserts to ski runs. For tou r
ing ideas see pp. 8- 1 6. For a broader view of the region
try the "America n Guide Series":
TEXAS, Hastings House, N . Y., 1 949.
O K L A H O MA, U n iv. of Okla. Press, Norman, 1 945.
KA N SAS, H astings House, N. Y., 1 949.
C o L O RADO, Hastings House, N . Y., 1 95 1 .
New MEXICO, U n iv. o f N . Mex. Press, Albuquerque, 1 945.
UTAH, Hastings House, N . Y., 1 94 1 .
N EVADA, Binfords a n d Mort, Portland, Ore., 1 940.
ARIZO N A, Hasti ngs H ouse, N. Y., 1 949.
C A L I F O R N IA, Hastings House, N. Y., 1 943.
Also:
T H E S O U T H W E ST, ed itors of LOOK, Houghton Mifflin, Boston, 1 947.

Among periodica ls the fol lowing are of particular interest:


DESERT MAGAZ I N E, Pa lm Desert, Calif.
AR IZO N A H I G H WAYS , Ariz. State Highway Dept., Phoenix, Ariz.
N EW M E X I C O MAGAZ I N E, State Capitol, Santa Fe, N. Mex.
C o L O RA D O Wo N D E RLAN D, 701 S. Tejon St., Colorado Springs, Colo.
N EV ADA H u:i HWAYS A N D PARKS, Dept. of Hig hways, C a rson C ity, Nev.

Before startin g Southwestward, write to any of the follow


ing for road maps and specific information . If you a re to
travel by rai l road, b us l ine, or airl ine, consult the one
you plan to use. Major gasoline companies provide m a ps
and wi l l aid in your planning.
N e w Mexico Tou rist Bureau, State C apitol, Santa F e , N . Mex.
Colorado Depa rtment of P u b lic Relations, State C a p itol, D e nver, Colo.
Associated C ivic C l u bs of Southern Utah, Richfield, Utah.
Arizona State H ig h way Department, Phoenix, Ariz.
Nevada Department of Hig hways, Ca rson City, Nev.
C a l ifornia Dept. of Natural Resources a n d Parks, Sacramento, C a l if.
Texas State Pa rks Board, 1 06 E. 1 3th St., Austin, Tex.
Kansas I n d ustrial Development Comm., 801 Ha rrison St., Topeka, Kan.
Okla. P l a n . a n d Res. Bd., 533 State Capitol, Oklahoma C ity, O k l a .
Na t i o na l P a r k Service, Southwest Region, B o x 1 728, S a n ta F e, N . Mex.
U.S. Forest Service, Reg. Foreter, Federal Bldg., Albuq uerque, N. Mex.

1 20
Cross Section of Grand Canyon Rock Formations

GRAND CANYON is a great gash in the earth 2 1 7 m iles


long, 4 - 1 8 m i les wide, and 1 mile deep, cut by the Colo
rado River through the Kaibab Platea u of northwestern
Arizona. View it from either rim or from the a ir. Its rugged
interior is accessible by foot or horseback. The South Rim
(elev. 6,900 ft.) may be reached the year round by bus,
ra il, or a uto and in summer by air. A hote l, a uto lodge,
and cam pground provide accom modations. The North
Rim {8,200 ft.) is c l osed by snow in winter. Cabins, cafe
teria, and cam pgrounds are open May 1 5-0ct. 1 5. Ceda r
City, Uta h, is the nearest a p proach by plane and train. To
be sure, make reservations in advance. Sad d l e- horse tri ps
and bus tours a re availab le, and the National Park Serv
ice provides free lectures and m useum services. Dis
covered by Coronado's fol l owers i n 1 540 and explored
by John Wesley Powel l in 1 869, Grand Canyon was made
a nationa l park i n 1 9 1 9. Wild animals abound. Typic a l
pla nts o f t h e mesas may be seen.
NAT U RAL F EAT U R E S 121
BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK has spectacular
amphitheaters eroded from the Pink Cl iffs of the Paun
saugunt P lateau, southwest Utah. Paved roads and trails.
Facilities: public campground, cabins, cafeteria, lodge;
m useum ; Ranger guide service. Faci l ities c losed in winter;
roads a re kept c lear; park stays open . Nearest ra i lhead
and airport: Cedar City.
Z I O N NATI ONAL PARK has a 2,000-3,000 ft. gorge
in red and wh ite Mesozoic rocks of the Kolob Platea u,
southwest Utah. Massive cliffs and gorgeous panoramas
mark the Virgin River. Mt. Carmel Hig hway connects U.S.
89 with U.S. 9 1 . Accessible by a uto or bus from Cedar
City. Cabins, cafeteria, and campground i n park and
nearby Springdale open all year. Museum; field trips;
cpmpfi re progra ms. Paved hig hways; 26 m iles of trails. '
For other spectacular canyon scenery, visit:
Salt River Canyon, on U.S. 60 north of Globe, Ariz.
Fish Creek Canyon, on the Apache Trail (Arizona State Highway 88).
Aravaipa Ca nyon (hikers only), Mammoth, Ariz.
Black River Ca nyon, near Ft. Apache, Ariz.
San J u a n Goosenecks, Mexican Hat, Uta h .
R i o Grande Ca nyon, south o f Taos, N . Mex.
BLACK CANYON OF THE C E DAR B R E A KS' h u g e bowl
G U N N ISON, i n west-centra l is ca rved from the same c o l o r
C o l o rado, has b reath-ta k i n g f u l rocks as B ryce C a n y o n , 95
d e p t h s a n d a v a s t expa nse o f m i les east. l a c k i n g Bryce's d e l
shtler wa l l s of g r a n ite and icate formati o n s, i t h a s, how
schist. Access i b l e from C raw ever, m o re c o l o r va riety. Ce
fo rd ( n o rth) and Montrose dar Breaks lod g e is open J u n e
(so u t h ) ; roads may be i m pas 1 5-Sept. 1 0 . Roads a re c losed
s a b l e in w i n te r . O n l y accom by snow N o v .-May. Ceda r
modations a re c a m p g ro u nds. C i ty is ra i l he a d a n d a i rport.
THE ROYAL G O R G E of the OAK CREEK CANYON, Ariz.,
Arkansas River h a s long been is 10 specta c u l a r m i l e s ( U . S .
a major attraction of southern 89A) between F l a gstaff a n d
Colorado. I t is s p a n ned b y a Sed o n a with in a g re a t lava
l o n g , extre m e l y h i g h suspen rimmed g a s h i n the C o co n i n o
sion b r i d g e reached from Can P l a tea u . Along tree-shaded
yon C ity o n the east a n d Sa l i banks of a b ra w l i n g trout
da on the west, on U . S . 50. stre a m with i n its depths a re
The h a n g i n g ra i l road bridge s m a l l orchards a n d fa rms, rest
with i n its d e pths i s notable. f u l g uest r a n ches, a n d resorts.
Santa Elena Canyon

B I G B E N D NAT I ONAL PARK, one of the n ewest and


the only one in Texas, is separated from Mexico by only
the narrow Rio Grande, which has cut five rugged canyons
in its southward swing around the lofty Chisos Mountains.
Big Bend combines sweeping views; interesting a n imals
such as the Kit Fox a n d Peccary; Century Pla nts a n d others
eq ua l ly weird; the gentle winter climate of the . Chihua
huan Desert; and the atmosphere of o l d Mexico. Its peaks
(nearly 8,000 ft.) offer a cool retreat in summer. The park
may be entered by paved hig hway from either Alpine or
Marathon ( 1 1 8 a n d 80 mi les away, respectively), both on
the Southern Pacific Rai lway. A public cam pground,
resta urant, and l i m ited cabin accommodations are avail
able the yea r round. Horse a n d foot tra ils lead to points
of interest. Fish in the Rio Gra nde, or picnic on its northern
bank. O n Dagger Flat, in April, the huge Giant Dagger
Yucca b l ossoms in profusion, except during periods of
drouth. Park Ra ngers provide information for visitors and
protection for park features.
1 24 N AT U RAL F EATURES
COLORADO NAT I O NAL MON
UMENT contains a colorfu l array of
canyons, a m phitheaters, c l iffs, and
pinnacles. It i l l ustrates fa u lting, a
great h iatus, a n d erosion. A paved
loop hig hway from Gra nd Junction
to Fruita i n west-centra l Colorado
makes it accessib l e a long a spectac
ular rim drive. Campgrounds on ly.
CAP I T O L REEF N AT I O N A L
MONUM E N T, a vast region in
Wayne County, Uta h, is na med from
a long, highly colored c l iff face re
su lting from erosion of the famous
Waterpocket Fold. State H ighway
27, a graded dirt road, crosses the
area. Tra ils lead into scenic canyons.
Accom modations at Torrey and Fruita.
MONUMENT VALLEY, named for
huge pinnacles and majestic ero
sional rem na nts, is in the Navajo
Reservation o n the dirt roa d from
Kayenta, Ariz., to Bl uff, Utah. Be
prepared to camp if necessary. Trad
ing posts provide some facil ities, in
cluding gaso line and guide service.
DEADHORSE P O I N T overlooks
canyon grandeur riva ling that of
Grand Canyon. Near the junction of
the Colorado and the Green Rivers,
it is reached by dirt road leaving
U.S. 1 60 at a point 1 2 m i les north of
Moa b, Utah . The road contin ues be
yond the Point to other overlooks.
NATURAL F EAT URES 1 25
ARIZONA'S PAI NT E D D ES E RT,
near Cameron, lies northeast of the
Little Colorado River and Holbrook.
I t is visible from U.S. 89 and U.S. 66.
layers of colored sed iment and ben
ton ite clay carved by erosion give
the colorful banded effect.

C H I RICAHUA (CH EERY -cow-a h )


NAT I ONAL M O N U M E N T is the
Wonderland of Rocks of southeast
ern Arizona. Erosion in columnar
l avas of the Chiricahua Mountains
has created a jumble of grotesq ue
rock figures accessible by hig hway
and 1 4 miles of trails. Horses a n d
limited accommodations available.

VALLEY OF F I R E STATE PARK


protects a n amazing outcrop of
huge brick-red rock fi n s reached by
a short dirt road from Overton, Nev.
Along the trai ls, this maze resembles
a city of crooked streets winding be
tween rows of ta l l, red-brick build
ings. Picnic facilities.

VALLEY OF T H E GOBLI NS, a par


adise for back-country explorers, is
accessible only by jeep or pickup
truck over a 38-mile dirt route start
ing at Hanksvi l le, Uta h. Take food
and water. Another spectacular iso
lated area, Cathedra l Va l ley, is
reached via Fremont, Utah.
N A T U R A L F EATURES
PETRI F I E D FOREST NAT I ONAL MONUMENT, site of
the largest and most colorful concentrations of petrified
wood in the world, lies between U.S. 66 a n d U.S. 260, 2 0
m i l e s east o f Holbrook, Ariz. State Hig hway 6 3 , travers
ing the monument, is closed at night to protect the petri
fied wood. Visitors are urged to resist tem ptation a n d
leave t h e wood for others t o en joy. I n addition t o the
quantities of agate, jasper, and cha lcedony (see p. 1 1 2 )
found in the six forests, there are badla nds o f colored
c lays that h ave weathered into a h a unting Painted Desert
Jandscape (p. 1 26). A fine museum is located half a m i l e
from t h e U . S . 260 entrance, with a sma l l restaura nt, a curio
store, a n d limited overnight accom modations nearby.
Tra ins stop at Holbrook, where a utomobiles may be hired.
Nearest airports: Winslow, Ariz., a n d Ga l lu p, N . Mex.
Other petrified forests in the Southwest:
Sweet Ranch, southwest of Santa Fe, N. Mex.
Nea r Tascosa, in the Texas P an ha ndle.
centr a l New Mexico, 146,535 a c res, is covered by d r ifts
of g l e a m i n g w h ite gypsum sa n d- h o m e of a few strug
g l i n g p l a n ts and a rare l izard and a pocket m o use, both
w h ite. It is accessib le from U.S. 70. There is a picnic a rea;
overnight accomm odations are a va i l a b l e i n A l a m ogordo.
An exc e l l e n t loo p road beg i n s at the pa r k m use u m , where
a series of exh i b its i l l ustrates the geology and the natura l
h istory of th is u n iq u e a rea.

GREAT SAND D U NES NATI ONAL MONUMENT has


600-ft. d r ifts a l ong the base of Sangre de C r isto Mts. Fol
low graveled road from State H i g hway 17, 1 3 m i les north
of A l a m osa (accommodations). Nature tra i l ; cam pgroun d .
Other sand-d u n e a reas you may wish t o see :
Mona h a n s Sands, n e a r Monahans, on U.S. 80, weste rn Tex.
P i n k Sands, northwest of Kanab, Uta h .
Desert Sands, along U .S. 8 0 , west o f Yuma, Ariz.
P u e rco Sands, on U .S. 60 a n d 85 , north of Socor ro, N . Mex.
I n Death Val ley Notional Mon ume nt, Calif.

1 28 NATURAL FEATURES
world-fa m o u s for their i m m ense size, their v a u lted rooms,
and their s p l e n d i d n atura l formations. Park Service g u ided
tours a re c o n d u cted a l ong 4 m i l es of u n dergro u n d paths.
Formed by c o l l a pse of rock after s l ow solution, a n d deco
rated by l i m estone d r i p p i n g , the caverns have been m i l
l i o n s o f years i n t h e m a k i n g . C h a n ges i n c l i mate h a v e l o n g
si nce m a d e m ost o f C a r l s b a d a "dea d " cave. It w a s fi rst
explored by a cowboy, J i m Wh ite, a bout 1 90 1 . Hoards
of ha rm less bats w h i c h l ive i n a n u pper corridor pour from
the natura l e n tra nce each s u m m e r eve n i n g . Twen ty-one
miles from' the city of C a r lsbad a paved h i g hway to the
park joins U . S . 62 a n d 1 80 from E l Paso, Tex. Rail and a i r
l i nes t o E l Paso or C a r lsbad connect w i t h b uses t o the
Caverns. N o over n i g h t accom modations. Light meals.

O t h e r South west caves you may w i s h to see:


Lehman Caves, Ba ker, Nev.
Colossal C ave, Vail (near Tucson), Ariz.
Cave of the W i n ds, Colorado Springs, Colo.
Whipple C ave, Cave Va l l ey, Nev.
C rysta l C ave, Oracle, Ariz.
Mitch e l l ' s Cave, Essex, C a l if.
METEOR C RAT ER, a hole 570 ft. deep and more than
3.4 mile wide, was blasted out some 50,000 years ago by
the im pact of a h uge c l uster of meteorites. The crater, 20
mi les west of Winslow, Ariz., is most effectively seen from
the air but may be reached by a 6-m i l e paved detour
from U.S. 66. A sma l l m useum (admission fee) on the rim
tells the story of meteor craters and displays meteoric
materials. Accommodations at Winslow. Other m eteor
craters are near Odessa, Tex., and Havi land, Ka n.
SU NSET C RATER, most recently active Southwest vol
cano, was formed about 1 066 A.D., according to g rowth
rings in timbers of Indian homes buried by its cinders. The
crater l ies in a sym metrica l 1 ,000-ft. cinder cone sur
rounded by spectacular sq ueeze-ups, spatter cones, and
lava fl ows. Proclaimed a national monument in 1 930, the
area is reached by a short road leaving U.S. 89 northeast
of Flagstaff, Ariz. (accom modations here).
VOLCA N I C PLUGS, such as
Shiprock in northwestern New
Mexico, are remnants of old
volcanoes, whose dying throats
were choked with cooling lava.
Erosion of the volcanoes has
left hard lava cores standing.
Plug: Shiprock

VOLCANIC D I KES may be


large mountains, as Mt. Blan
ca, Colo.; or long lines of "hog
backs"; or vertical veins across
country, as at Alamillo Creek,
N . Mex., and below the vol
ca n ic Spa nish Peaks near La
Veta, Colo.

LAVA F LOWS, many old, some recent, are common. Best


known are flows near Carrizozo and Grants, N . Mex.-the
latter famous for perpetua l ice caves near Paxton Springs.
Other lava-flow ice caves are on Sierra Negra and John
son Mesa between Folsom and Raton, N . Mex.

CAULDERAS, cones of volcanoes that have blown off


their tops, a re rare in the Southwest. Va l l e Grande, i n
Jemez ( HAY-mez) Mountains, N . Mex., i s 1 8 m iles across.
It is surrounded by lava beds and com pressed volcan ic
ash cal led "tuff."

Other volca nic plugs: Cabazon Peak, N . Mex.; Agathai Peak, Monu
ment Val ley; Lizard Head, near Tellu ride, Colo.; H u e rfa n o Butte, near
Walse n b u rg, Colo. Other ci nder cones: V u lcan's Th rone, n Grand
C a nyon Natio n a l Monument; El Tintero, nea r Bluewater, N. Mex.;
Capulin Mountain, near Capulin, N . Mex.; Ubehebe C rater, Death
Valley National Monu ment; n u merous cones near Springervil le, Ariz.

NAT U RAL F E ATURES 1 31


Delicate Arch

ARC H ES NATIONAL MONUMENT Arches may be


defi n e d as passages throug h obstructions, whereas natural
bridges a re passages that go over obstructions. I n eastern
Uta h, near Moab, erosion has left many thin vertica l
s l a b s or fi n s of . san dstone. Weathe r i n g someti mes per
forates such fi ns to form win dows. E n l a rgement of the
o p e n i ngs resu l ts i n stone arches. More t h a n 8 0 such natura l
a rches, some of them i m m e nse, are found i n Arches
Natio n a l Mo n u m ent. M i n g led with them are b a l a nced
rocks, pi n nac les, rock fi g u res resem b l i n g m e n a n d a n i m a ls,
and a rugged a rea of br i l l ia n t red-ba n de d rock c a l led
Fiery Furnace. A state h i g hway e nters the m o n u m ent,
l e a vin g U.S. 1 60 at a point 1 2 m i les north of Moab, where
there are tou r ist a ccommodations. Leave tra i lers outside,
as t h e m o n u m e n t road conta ins d ips and steep grades. A
picnic g r o u n d a n d self-g u i d i n g nature tra i l a re a v a i l a b le.
O t h e r n a t u r a l a rches t h a t m a y be on your route:
Window Rock, n e a r the town of that n a me, Ariz.
Golden Arch, Organ Pipe Cactus Natio n a l Mon u ment, Ariz.
Cassidy's Arch, C a p itol Reef National Mon ume nt, Uta h .
A n g e l ' s Win dow, Cape Roya l, Grand Canyon National Park, Ariz.
Arch Canyon a n d Hole-in-Rock, near San Juan River, southeastern Uta h .
1 32 NATURAL F EATURES
Owachomo Bridge

NATURAL BRIDGES NATIONAL MONUMENT, 50


m i les by d i rt road from B l a n d i n g , Utah, conta i n s three
huge natura l ston e spa n s form i n g a rough tria n g l e 3
m i les on a side. The entrance roa d ends i n a s m a l l c a m p
g r o u n d , from which a tra i l , with self-g u id i n g m a rkers,
leads to Owa chomo Bridge. There a r e n o other fac i l ities .
Brin g food, water, a n d c a m pi n g eq u i pment.
RAINBOW BR IDGE, worl d-fa mous, is i dden dee p i n
t h e remote, r u g g e d s l ickrock cou ntry west o f Navajo
Mounta i n i n south-centra l Uta h . large enough to stra d d l e
t h e natio n 's ca pito l , it is dwa rfed by i t s surrou n d i n g s . I t
is rea ched by a 1 4- m i l e tra i l from Ra i n bow l o d g e o r N a
v a j o Mounta i n Tra d i n g Post. Horses m a y be obta i n e d .
O n ly hardy outdoors pe o p l e s h o u l d attem pt the tri p. Boat
trave l e r s on the Colorado River h ike 6 m i l e s u p Forbidden
C a n yon to R a i n bow Bridge.
O t h e r n a t u r a l bridges:
Gregory- Esca l a n te W i l d e r n ess, U ta h .
Grosvenor - Esca l a n te W i l d e rn ess, Utah .
Wh ite Mesa - n e a r I nscription House Trad i n g Post, A r iz.
H ic k m a n - i n C a p i to l Reef N a t i o n a l Mon u m e n t, Uta h .
Trave r t i n e - n e a r P i n e , Ariz.
"Whop p e r ' " ( u n n a m e d ) - Z i o n National Monu ment, Utah.
Bryce-Bryce Ca nyon National Park, U ta h . Rainbow Bridge
Cliff Palace Ruin

M ESA V E R D E NAT I O NAL PARK, in extreme southwest


ern Colorado, containing the la rgest concentration of pre
historic cave village ruins in the U nited States, is one of
the best p laces to see the handiwork of early Americans.
I n the park is a u n ique m useum where the arts and crafts
of prehistoric Indians are exh ibited a n d explained. Self
g u ided tours, conducted trips to the ruins, and cam pfire
talks by Park Service archeologists tel l the story of the
I n dians who farmed the mesas for 1 ,300 years. Major
ruins are reached by paved roads. Horses may be h ired
for trai l trips. The park is open a l l the year, b ut overnight
accommodations a n d meals are available o n ly during
summer a n d early fa l l . There is a large campground.
Enter the park midway between Mancos a n d Cortez, Colo.,
on U.S. 1 60.
Other Southwest cliff ruins:
Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument, Silver C ity, N . Mex.
Bandelier N ational Monument, near los Alamos, N . Mex.
Puye C l iff R u ins, near Santa C la ra Pueblo, N . Mex.
Wa l n u t C a nyon National Monument, near Flagstaff, Ariz.
1 34 OLD I N D I A N V I LLAGES
NAVAJO N A T I O N A L MON MONTEZ UMA CAST L E N A
UMENT, i n n o rth-centra l Ari T I O N A L M O N UME NT, nea r
z o n a , p rotects th ree spectacu the center of Arizo n a , is a
l a r c l iff r u i n s . N o n e is a c cessi specta c u l a r c l iff ruin easily
ble by a u t o m o b i l e ; Betato k i n reached by paved roa d .
is s e e n f r o m a short tra i l n e a r R a n g e r-archeolog ist g u ides
headqua rters. G u i d e service, a n d a museum describe p re
a campground, and Indian h isto ric I n d i a n s of Verde Val
ponies a re a va i la b l e . Dirt ley. N e a r M o n te z u m a We l l .
roads; be p repa red to c a m p . Acco m m od a t i o n s nea rby.

C A N Y O N DE C H E L L Y (de TONTO NAT I O NAL M O N U


S HAY) N AT I O N A L M O N U M E N T , ove r l o o k i n g Rooseve lt
M E N T (rea c h e d b y d i rt roads) Reservoir, Ariz., is reached
in n o rtheaste r n Arizona has over u n paved but sce n i c
specta c u l a r ca nyons conta i n Apache Tra i l . G e m - l i k e c l i ff
i n g ruins. Wh ite H o u se R u i n is r u i n s a re n e a r . A m u s e u m , c o n
seen from the road; others a re d u cted tri ps, a nd a se lf-g u id
reached by h i k i n g , h o rseback, i n g tra i l te l l of preh isto ric I n
o r specia l a u t o m o b i l e . Gu est d i a n s . Mote l s i n G l o b e a n d
r a n c h accommodations. other nearby towns.
AZT E C RUINS NATIONAL TUZIGOOT N AT I O N A L
M O N U M E NT, on the west M O N UME NT, 3 m i les e a st of
b a n k of the A n i mas River n e a r C la rkda l e i n Arizo n a 's Verde
Aztec, N . M e x . , is a n a n ci en t Va l ley, is the re m n a n t of a n
v i llage si t e u se d by preh isto ric I n d i a n v i l l a g e o n a h i l ltop. A
farmer I n d i a n s (not Aztecs) . A m u se u m e x h i b its preh isto ric
sma l l m u se u m a nd trips pottery, sto ne a n d b o n e tools,
t h ro u g h the ruins explain their a n cient jewe lry. A self-g u id i n g
a ctivities and h a b its. Accom tra i l exp l a i n s t h e r u i n . Nearb y
modations i n Aztec a n d other towns offe r accom modations.
towns. J e rome, a g host town, is nea r.

CASA GRANDE NATIONAL W U PA T K I N AT I O N A L


M O N U M E NT, on State H i g h MON UMENT c o n ta i n s the
way 8 7 , is the site of a r u i n e d l a rgest r u i n a mo n g 800 pre
fou r-sto ry e a rt h e n towe r ( p . h isto ric I n d i a n h o m esites. S o i l
22) dominating a Hohokam h e re was e n riched b y the erup
wa l led village. A m u seu m a n d tion of S u nset C rater (see p .
a g u ided t r i p t h ro u g h t h e r u i n 1 30). T h e entrance road leaves
tell of a n e a r l y p e o p l e w h o U .S . 89 30 m i les n o rth of F l a g
i rrigated a n d fa rmed pa rts o f staff, Ariz. (acco m m odations).
the G i l a Va l ley of Arizo n a . Self-g u id i n g tra ils.
C HACO CANYON NAT I O NAL M O N U M E NT, in
northwestern New Mexico, with a dozen g reat open-site
ruins a n d h u ndreds of smaller sites, represents the hig hest
development of prehistoric Pueb lo Indian civilization in
the Southwest. Superior masonry, a rich variety of stone
and bone tools, pottery, and fabrics found i n the ruins
mark a peak of prehistoric cu lture. Midway between
Thorea u, on U.S. 66, and Aztec, on State Hig hway 44,
Chaco Canyon is reached over winding State Highway
56, sometimes made impassable by sand or m u d . A camp
ground, sma l l m useum, a n d guide service to Pueblo Bonito
(Beautiful Vil lage) are ava i lable. This ruin of over 830
rooms was explored by the National Geographic Society,
1 92 1 -27. Nearest facil ities a re 64 miles away.
Other open-site ruins thot you may wish to see:
Bandelier National Monument, near Los Alamos, N . Mex.
Coronado State Monument, near Bernalil lo, N . Mex.
Pecos State Monument, near Pecos, N . Me11:.
Besh-ba-gowa h Ruin, G lobe, Ariz.
Pueblo Grande, Phoen ix, Ariz.
Kinishba Ruin, near Fort Apache, Ariz.
Point of Pines Ruin, east of San C a rlos, Ariz.
Hovenweep Nationa l Monument, west of C ortez, Colo.
Kiva Ruins, near McNary, Ariz.
Elden Pueblo, near Flagstaff, Ariz.

OLD I N DIAN V I L LAG ES 1 37


O l d Walpi

HOPI I N DI A N VI LLAGES, high on protected ta blela nds


west of Keams Ca nyon, Ariz., overlook the Painted Desert
(see pp. 31 and 1 26). For eight centuries the H6pita
(peaceful) people have occupied three fi n gers of Black
Mesa, known (east to west) as First, Second, and Third
Mesas. Visitors are welcome in the vil lages but should
remember that the houses are private homes, not business
p laces. Ceremonia l dances are held freq uently, the Soya
bina opening th e kachina progra m in Dece m ber. In
J a n uary there are hu nting dances; in February, bea n
sprouting dances; and during the sum mer, butterfly
dances. Most famous is the Snake Dance held late in
August. Although the main road through the Hopi country
is now paved, side roa ds are dirt or gravel a n d may be
come difficult fol lowing rains. Trading posts offer gaso l i n e
a n d supplies but few overnight accommodations. Travelers
off main roads may have to camp. See m a p on p. 3 1 .
First Mesa V i l l a g e s Second Mesa Villages T h i rd Mesa V i l l a g e s
(People Make Pottery ) (People Make ( People Make
Walpi Coi led Baskets) Twined P laques)
Sichomovi Mishongnovi Oraibi
Shipaulov i H otevi l l a
Hano Bacabi
Shongopovi

1 38 OLD I N D I A N V I L LAGES
HAVASUPAI Indians, a dwindling
tribe, l ive i n Supai Vil lage, deep in
Havasu Canyon, within Grand Can
yon. Leave your car at H i l ltop, on the
canyon rim, and hike 1 4 m i les to
Supai; or, a rrange to be met at H i l l
top by I n d ians with saddle pon ies.
Blue-green water, three majestic
waterfa l ls, a n d subtropica l pla nts
make the canyon a paradise. Lim ited
accommodations at Supai Vil lage.

Q U I J OTO A (key-ho-TOE-ah), typi


cal Papago I ndian village, is in the
desert northwest of Sel ls, Ariz., on
State H ig hway 86. One-room m ud
fl oored houses are of Sag uaro ribs
or Ocotil l o stems plastered with mud.
Come in spring or fa l l . At Sells are a
Papago m useum, store, a n d fi l ling
station. Mea ls a n d accommodations
at Noga les, Tucson, Casa Grande,
and other nearby centers.

ACOMA (AK-oh-mah), New Mexi


co's "Sky C ity," tops a s m a l l mesa,
1 4 m iles by graveled road from U.S.
66 near San Fide l . It and Oraibi (p.
1 38) are cal led the o ldest continu
ously occupied villages in the U.S.
Acoma is reached by a steep foot
trail winding up Acoma Rock. There
is a charge for entering the pueblo,
and a fee for taking photographs.
Accom m odations a long U.S. 66.
OLD I N DIAN V I L LAGES 1 39
SAN JOSE DE TUMACACORI sta rted as a sim p l e s h e lter
in w h ic h the fa mous Spa n i s h priest, Father K i n o, said m a ss
for the Soba i p u r i I n dians in 1 69 1 . By 1 773 it had become
a major m ission. When, i n 1 844, Mexico s o l d the m ission
l a n ds, I n d i a n s of the Tumacacori congregation m oved the
c h u r c h f u r n i s h i n g s to San Xavier ( p . 1 4 1 ) , nea r Tucson,
Ariz. Abandoned, Tumacacori fel l into ruin. In 1 908 it
was proc laimed a natio n a l m o n u m ent and considera b l e
w o r k h a s s i n c e b e e n d o n e t o sta b i l ize the fi n e o l d b u i l d
i n g . A modern m use u m te l l s the story of Tumacacori a n d
t h e Sonora c h a i n o f K i n o Missions. U . S . 89 passes c lose to
the wa l ls. Tourist accommodations a re ava i l a b l e at No
g a les, j u st b e low the Mexican border, 1 8 m i les south;
and i n Tucson, 48 m i les north.
Other old m ission ruins you may wish to see:
Abo, Qua rai, and Gra n Q u ivira, near Mountainair, N . Mex.
Pecos a n d Jemez, near Santa Fe, N . Mex.
Quevavi, near T u m acacori, Ariz.
Quibu ri, near Fairbank, Ariz.

1 40 OLD MISSIONS
SA N XAVI E R (ha h-VE ER) was SAN M I G U E L, i n downtown
consecrated i n 1 797. G l iste n Santa Fe, N. Mex. ( p . 1 44),
i n g wh ite, c o m b i n i n g Byza n was b u i lt 1 6 36, destroyed b y
tine, Moorish, and S p a n ish a r I n d i a n s 1 680, restored 1 7 1 0 .
c h itectu re, it serves the I nd i a n s Now a c h a p e l for St. M i c h a e l ' s
of B a c , 9 m i les southwest of School, it is periodica l l y
Tucso n . Visitors we l c o m e . opened f o r p u b l i c worsh i p .

EL SA N C T U A R I O DE CHI ST. FRAN C I S OF ASSISt


MAYO, i n a h a m let o f b l a n ket MISSION typifies the old
weavers i n the Sa nta C r u z Va l S p a n ish S o u t h west. C e n t e r o f
ley, n o rthern N . Mex., d ates a n c i e n t R a n c h o s d e Taos, n e a r
from 1 8 1 6. Quaint S p a n ish Taos, N . Mex., it was a refu g e
Pueblo. Pilg rims come here. in Apache and Comanche
Visit i n e a r l y October. r a i d s . Re b u i l t 1 772.

es and m issions i n New Mexico :


Sa n Esteban Rey, Acoma Pueblo. San J ose de La g u na, Lag u n a
S a n Felipe de N eri, A l b u q uerq u e . Pueblo.
San Miguel del Bado, Sa n Mi- N u estro Senora d e Ia Asuncion,
guel. Zia Pueblo.
S a n Miguel Mission, Socorro. San Antonio de Isleta, Isleta
Sen ora d e los Dolores, Arroyo Pueblo.
Hondo.
OLD M I S S I O N S 1 41
TOMBST O N E, Ariz., "The Town Too To ug h to D ie," typ
ifies l u sty, god less m i n i n g c a m ps of early days. In its hey
day, 1 879- 1 885, Tom bsto ne and its f a m o u s newspa per,
The Epitaph, built a reputation that sti l l draws visitors to
wander a m o n g deserted g a m b l i n g h a l ls and ex p lore the
Birdcage Theater and Booth i l l C e m etery, w h e re g r i m ly
h u morous g rave m a rkers sta n d . Tom bsto ne, on U . S . 80, is
between B e n son and Bisbee, which offer a c c o m modations.
J EROME, rich i n copper- m i n i n g l o re, w a s born in 1 882,
died i n 1 952. For so young a g host, it is a m a z i n g l y
fam ous-"The Most U n i q u e T o w n i n A merica . " I ts s pectac
ular location o n the face of M i n g u s Mou nta i n , Ariz., puts
it in t h e c l iff-ruin c l ass. Big Pit Mine a n d a modern m useu m
a r e m a j o r a ttractions. U . S . 89A winds a m o n g a b a ndoned
b u i l d i n g s to C l a rkdale, C ottonwood, and Prescott, all with
accom m odations. (Other g h ost towns: see pp. 1 2 ; 42-43)
FORT U N I O N ( 1 85 1 - 1 89 1 ) , at a j unction of the Sa nta Fe
Tra i l , was an army base. Adobe wa l ls, guardhouse, brick
chim neys, survive. N ine mi les from Watrous o n U.S. 85.
FORT DAVIS ( 1 854- 1 89 1 ), i n the Davis Mounta ins, west
ern Texas (State H ig hways 1 7 and 1 1 8), was destroyed by
In dians, rebu i l t 1 867. Garrisons fought Apaches and Co
manches. Some b u i l dings remain.
F O R T BOW I E ( 1 862 - 1 896), near Apache Pass, Chiricahua
Mountains, southeast Arizona, g uarded stagecoaches a n d
G e n . Nelson A. Miles' headquarters in t h e Geronimo cam
pa ign. Adobe wa lls remain on a spur from the Apache
Pass road leaving U.S. 80 at Bowie (BOO-ee).
PIPE S P R I N G N AT I O NAL MO N U M E N T preserves a
Mormon stone fort ( 1 869-70) built around a spring. The
fort protected colonists. On graded dirt road 1 5 m i les
southwest of Fredonia, n orthern Arizona.
Oth e r old forts t h a t m a y be visited (see m a p , p p . 42-43, a lso):
Ft. Garland, Colo. Ft. Whipple, Ariz. Ft. Sta nto n , N . Mex.
Ft. Lyon, Colo. Ft. Lowell, Ariz. Ft. Cra ig, N. Mex.
Ft. Bl iss, Tex. Ft. McDowell, Ariz. Ft. Wingate, N . Mex.
Ft. Stockton, Tex. Ft. Defiance, Ariz. Ft. S u m n e r, N . Mex.
Ft. Huach uca, Ariz. Ft. Gra nt, Ariz. Ft. Bayard, N . Mex.
Santa Fe Claims the Oldest House in the U.S.

SANTA F E (C ity of the Holy Faith), ca pita l of New Mex


ico, was the center of Spanish and Pueblo I n d ia n cu lture
a n d of Catholic activities during the m ission period, when
Jesuit a n d Franciscan priests were active. It is now a
modern art and cu ltural center. Sa nta Fe's plaza, planned
in Madrid, Spain, a n d built in 1 609- 1 6 1 0, was the term inus
of two great tra ils: the Camino Rea l from Vera Cruz, Mex
ico, first traveled in 1 58 1 ; and the Sa nta Fe Trai l,. main
route west from I ndependence, Mo., after 1 82 1 . North
of the plaza is the Palace of the Governors, now a m u
seum, over which have fl o w n six fl a g s . Nearby a re the
New Mexico Museum of Art and Cathedra l of St. Francis.
Hig hways lead to preh istoric Indian ruins, to modern
I n d ia n pueblos, and to native vil lages where Spa n ish is
sti l l the mother tongue.
Oth e r S p a n ishAmerican lawns ( a l l b u t t h e fi rst t w o i n New Mexico}
that reta i n n ative cha racte r :
San L u i s, Colo. Abiquiu Penasco C u ndiyo
Nogales, Ariz. Mes i l l a Truchas Mora
C o rdova Tecolote Tierra A m a r i l l a Pecos
Socorro San J ose Berna l i l l o
1 44 O L D TOWNS
MUSEUMS containing scientific or h istorical col lections
and educational displays are n umerous in the Southwest.
Many nationa l parks and monuments provide exhibits as
a ids in understanding the features they protect. Outsta nd
ing among these are the early India n exhibits at Mesa
Verde, the Yavapai Point Station explaining the major
geologica l and biologica l stories i l l ustrated in the Gran d
Canyon, a n d t h e Spanish Mission exhibits at Tumacacori,
Ariz. Displays at the University of Arizona, Tucson, outline
the story of prehistoric man in the Southwest. Private in
stitutions, such as the Heard Museum at Phoenix, the
Museum of Northern Arizona at Flagstaff, a n d the Bar
ringer Meteor Crater Museum (*) west of Winslow, Ariz .

are of particular interest to travelers.


Other museums (* a d mission fee) you may wish to see :
Pioneer Village, Las Vegas, Nev.
* Lost City Muse u m , Overton, Nev.
San J acinto Museum, San Jacinta Mon u ment, Tex.
Panhand le-Plains Historical Museum, Canyon, Tex.
S u i Ross H istorical Museum, Alpine, Tex.
Utah H istorical Museum, Fillmore, Utah.
Taylor Muse u m a n d Fine Arts Center, Colorado Springs, Cola.

* Ni n i n g e r Meteorite Museum, Sedona, Ariz.
Mineral Museum, State Fair Grou nds, Phoenix, Ari1.
*Muse u m of Mining History, J e rome, Ariz.
Archeologica l Museum of the U niversity of New Mexico, Albuquerque
Museum of I nternational Folk Art, Santa Fe, N . Mex.
*Museum of Navajo Ceremon ial Art, Santa Fe, N. Mex.

Governors' P a lace, Santa Fe


D EAT H VALLEY NAT I O NAL MONUM ENT, C a l if.,
esta b lished 1 933, features scenery, geol ogy, u n i q u e
desert life, a n d t h e lowest spot i n t h e Western H e m isphere,
282 ft. below sea leve l . Accom modations: ca m pground,
hote ls, m otels. C l imate: idea l October-Apr i l . Paved
routes: from Baker, C a l if.; Beatty, Nev.; Lone Pine or
O la n c h a , Ca l if. F urnace Creek has a sma l l a i r port. Las
Vegas, Nev., is the nea rest ra i l head.

southwestern Ariz., near Mexico, protects m a n y sem i


tropica l pla nts and a n i m a ls n ot fo u n d el sewhere i n the
U.S. After w inters of above-average ra infa l l , a m a ss of
fl owers a ppears, then trees, s h r u bs, a n d cactuses b loom.
A hig hway leavi n g State Hig hway 86, 12 miles south of
Ajo (AH-hoe), crosses the monument en route to the Gulf
of C a l ifornia. A store at Lukev i l l e a n d a campground offer
the o n l y accommodations nearer tha n Ajo.
1 46 N AT U RAL F EAT U R ES
Joshua Tree Forests occur
near Pierce Ferry, Ariz.; on State
Hig hway 93 northwest of Con
gress, Ariz.; and i n Joshua Tree
N a t i o n a l M o n u m e n t, betw e e n
Twentynine Pa lms a n d I ndio, Cal
if. largest of yuccas (p. 90), this
tree is spectacular in bloom, late
February to early Apri l .

Arizona-Sonora Desert Mu
seum, 1 2 m i les northwest of Tuc
son, in a forest of Giant Cactus,
exhibits desert plants and ani
ma ls. labels tel l about each spe
cies and the part it p lays in the
desert comm unity. Attendants an
swer q uestions.

Desert Botanical Gardens of


Arizona display desert plants in
Papago Park between Phoenix
and Tem pe (tem-PEE). lectures are
given. Plants are sold. Also try
Boyce Thompson Southwest Arbo
retum, near Superior, Ariz.

S a g u a r o ( s u h -WA R - o h ) N a
tional Monu ment displays
m a n y desert pla nts a n d a n i m a ls.
Markers and a leaflet explain fea
tures along a 9-mile loop drive.
Sma l l picnic ground and m useum.
Tucson ( 1 7 m iles west) has mod
ern accommodations.
DESERT AG R I C U LT U R E, based on irrigation, goes back
at l east 1 ,000 years in the Southwest. I rrigation systems
now distribute water from huge reservoirs and thousands
of deep wel l s to m i l lions of arid acres (see p. 48). Fertile
soils and a long g rowing season (up to 355 days) produce
enormous crops of a lfa lfa, cerea ls, cotton , vegeta b les,
citrus fruits, a n d dates. Winter crops incl ude head lettuce,
wheat, a n d carrots. Canta loupes ripen early, a n d cotton
is king of the field crops. Most of the a lfalfa, hegari, corn,
and sim ilar crops are fed to range cattle to cond ition them
for market. Sugar beets, figs, ol ives, pecans, and honey
are among the specia lized crops of the desert.
Some of the ag ricultural centers you will want to visit:
Yuma, Ariz.: C itrus, dates, peca ns, alfalfa, wheat, g rapes.
Phoenix, Ariz.: C itrus, a lfa lfa, cotton, vegeta bles.
Coolidge, Ariz.: Cotton, carrots, alfa lfa, hegari.
Las C ruces, N . Mex . : Cotton, a lfalfa, hegari.
Hobbs, N . Mex . : Berries, vegetables, g rapes.
El Paso, Tex . : Cotton, a lfalfa.
Monte Vista, Colo.: Potatoes, alfalfa, honey.
Grand J u nction, Colo. : Apples, peaches, pears, cherries, a lfalfa.
I mperial Val ley, Calif.: Sugar beets, tobacco, lettuce, celery, tomatoes,
cotton, dates.
Deep-well Irrigation
W I L D L I F E R E F U G ES are for the protectio n of wild crea
tures, which, like men, m ust have a place to l ive, natura l
food, shelter, a n d a suitable environment to raise fam i l ies.
By protecting native wildlife in its enviro n ment, federa l
and state agencies provide an enormous i mpetus to h u
man recreation . I n t h e refuges, native animals may be
seen, photographed, and studied. In some, overnight ac
commodations are available for visitors. All n ational parks
and monuments are wildlife refuges. State parks a n d
monuments a lso protect wildlife. National Wildlife Refuges
of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service include the fol lowing:
Wich ita Mounta i n s Notio n a l W i l d l ife Refu ge, n e a r lawto n , O k l a . :
Buffalo, deer, tu rkeys, longhorn cattle. C a m psites.
Salt P l a i n s National W i l d l ife Refuge, near C h e rokee, O k l a .
M u l e s h o e N a t i o n a l W i l d l ife Refuge, n o rthwest of l u b bock, Tex.
Bitter lake Mig ratory Waterfowl Refuge, near Roswe ll, N . Mex.
Bosq u e del Apache National W i l d l ife Refuge, at head of E l e p h a n t
Butte Rese rvoir, N . Mex . : Waterfowl a n d fi s h i n g .
San A n d re a s Natio n a l W i l d l ife R e f u g e , west o f Wh ite Sands Natio n a l
M o n u m ent, N . Mex.
Safford Nation a l Wi ldl ife Refuge, near Safford, A riz.
Salt River National Wi l d l ife Refu ge, near Roosevelt, Ariz.
Ca beza Prieta Game Refu ge, adjoining Organ Pipe Cactus National
M o n u m e n t, Ariz . : Desert Bighorn a n d Pecca ry.
Kofa Game Refuge, near Yuma, Ariz.: Desert Bighorn.
I mperial and Havasu Nationa l Wildl ife Refuge, n e a r Yuma, Ariz.
Desert Game Range, near las Vegas, Nev.
Salto n Sea Nation a l Wildlife Refug e, at south end of Salton Sea, Calif.

For further information, write U.S. Fish and Wildl ife Se rvice, P. 0. Box
1 306, A l b u q uerque, N . Mex.

NAT U RAL RESOURCES 1 49


HOOVER DAM (form erly BOULDER DAM}, c o m p l eted
1 936, is the h i g h est (726 ft.) o n the C o lorado River. It
formed lake Mea d - 1 1 5 m i les long, 229 sq u a re m i l es. Sur
rounded by desert, lake Mead Nationa l Recreation
Area provides swim m i n g , boati n g , fi s h i n g . The dam's
g e n erators and mazes of corridors are rea ched by e leva
tors. Dept. of I nterior g u ides explain eq ui pment and con-
struction . The d a m ' s crescent top is a broad h i g hway, 1 ,2 8 2
ft. l o n g , l i n k i n g Arizona w i t h N evada. A m useum at t h e
N e v a d a end depicts the i m m ense territory served with
water and power by the dam. Other dams that create
reservoirs a l ong the Col orado River are Davis, Parker,
I m pe r i a l , a n d lag u n a Dams. Accom m odations: Boulder
C ity, Nev., 6 m i l e s west, a n d las Vegas, N ev., 2 9 miles
n orthwest, of Hoover Da m .
1 50 N AT U RAL R ESOURCES
Hoover Dam

GREAT DAMS impound water, generate electricity, har-

ness destructive flood forces of the three big rivers of the


Southwest-Colorado, Rio Grande, and Arkansas. Dams of
the Southwest have contrad icted climatic laws and stimu
lated westward expansion. Roosevelt Dam (completed
1 9 1 1 ), 60 m i les n ortheast of Phoenix, Ariz., started the
reclamation parade. It is i n the center of a scen ic a rea
tapped by State Hig hway 88 (Apache Tra i l), which a lso
passes four other large dams and the 59-mile chain of
lakes on the Sa lt River. Arizona's Verde River boasts
Horseshoe a n d Bartlett Dams, a n d Coolidge Dam is the
main structure on the Gila. E lephant Butte and Caba l l o
a r e t h e big d a m s on t h e R i o Grande in N e w Mexico.
Other dams you moy see i n the Southwest:
B l uewater, i n the Zuni Mountains, near B l u ewater, N. Mex.
Alamogordo, o n the Pecos River, near Fort S u m ner, N. Mex.
Ava lon, on the Pecos, near Carlsbad, N . Mex.
Conchas, on the C a n a d ian, near Tucumcari, N . Mex.
Eagle Nest, on the C i m a rron, near Taos, N . Mex .
El Vado, on the C h a m a , near Park View, N. Mex.
McMi l l a n, on the Pecos, near lakewood, N . Mex.
John Martin, on the Arka nsas, near Fort lyon, Colo.
Carl Pleasant, o n the A g u a Frio, near Peoria, Ariz.
Gil l espie, on the H assayampa, near Buckeye, Ariz.

NAT U RAL RESOU RC ES 151


OPEN-PIT COPPER M I N ES are s pectacular large-sca le
d iggings; many pock the Southwest. A visit to any one,
particu larly during operations, is memorable. Mines
are seen at Ajo, Bisbee, Jerome, Morenci, and C l ifton, in
Arizona; Santa Rita, near Si lver C ity, N . Mex., and the
Ruth Pit, near Ely, Nev. There are smelters at Douglas,
Miam i, G lobe Hayden, Ariz., and El Paso, Tex.

GOLD A N D S I LVER are often found with copper. Gold


m ining is active near Oatman, Ariz. Extensive potash work
ings underlie southeastern New Mexico near Carlsbad.
Silver, lead, and zinc are mined near Pioche, Nev.
Uranium ore occurs in southeastern Utah a n d southwestern
C o l orado. Trinidad, Colo., and Raton, Ga l l u p, and Mad
rid, N. Mex., were once centers of coa l-min ing, now
superseded in importance by petroleum and natural-gas
production . For other minerals see pp. 1 1 3- 1 1 4.
1 52 N AT U RAL R ESOURCES
NAT U RAL-GAS A N D O I L production is growing. Fields
are being developed in western Texas and northwestern
New Mexico. The Hobbs Field, in southeastern N . Mex.,
a n d one near Amaril lo, Tex., afford sightseeing oppor
tunities for travelers on main highways. Oil discoveries in
eastern Nevada a re reported. Helium, the rare nonflam
mable gas, occurs in severa l Southwester n oil fields, a n d
a heliu m extracting and bottl ing plant is l ocated just west
of Amari l l o, Tex., on U.S. 66.
NATURAL HOT SPRI NGS, mainly of mineralized water,
are used for thera peutic purposes. Such springs, in various
degrees of devel opment, dot the Southwest. Many a re
maintained by private ly owned health resorts a n d guest
ranches. Those at Truth or Conseq uences a n d Ojo Cali
ente, N . Mex., are wel l known. Other hot springs of inter
est include:
Verde H o t Springs, Ariz. Jemez Springs, N. Mex.
Agua C a l iente Hot Springs, Ariz. Frisco Hot Springs,
I n d i a n Hot Spri ngs, Luna, N . Mex.
Thatcher, Ariz. Faywood Hot Springs,
Tonopah Hot Sp rings, Faywood, N. Mex.
Buckeye, Ariz. In Big Bend National Park, Tex.
Castle Hot Springs, Spencer Hot Springs,
Morristown, Ariz. Austin, Nev.
C l ifton H ot Spri ngs, C l ifton, Ariz. Warm Springs, Nev.
Mon roe Hot Springs, Mineral Hot Springs,
Mon roe, Uta h . Saguache (sy-WATC H), Colo.

NATU RAL R ESOU RC ES 1 53


H U N T I N G A N D F I S H I N G is "big business" in the South
west. Vast a reas of spa rsely popu l ated land suita b l e for
n ative a n i m a ls, large bodies of water b e h i n d the g reat
irrigation d a m s (see p . 1 5 1 ), a n d ex pert m a n a g em ent by
g a m e a n d fi sh com m issions of the various states h a ve com
bined to m a i ntain a dependa b l e p o pu lation of fish and
game. This is harvested by loca l s portsme n and vaca
tioners, h u nters, a n d fishermen from oth e r regions. Pack
tri ps into the high cou ntry usua l l y yield larger bags be
ca use there is l ess press ure on game species i n areas i na c
cessib l e to a utom obiles. License fees, o pen seasons, a n d
bag l i m its v a r y in different states a n d f r o m yea r to year.
S portsmen should consult l oca l g a m e wardens o r the state
g a m e warden's office.
Some of the most widely sought game i n the Southwest:
Game Mammals Game Birds
M u l e Deer Bison Mourn ing Dove Sage a n d Dusky
Wh ite-tai l Deer Bighorn Wh ite-winged Grouse
Bear Pecca ry Dove Prairie C h icken
Elk Rabbits Gambel and B l u e Pheasants
Antelope Quail Wild Turkey
C h u kar Wild Ducks a n d
Geese
1 54 SPORTS
MOUNTAI N C L I M B I N G is for
youth, but m a ny "ol dsters" are
addicts, too . Wooded footh i l l s
with g r a d e d trai ls; rugged 1 3,000-
to 1 4,000-ft. peaks; crags a n d c l iffs
req u i r i n g ro pes, pitons, a n d a l l
t h e know-how o f scientific m o u n
ta ineering - the Southwest has
them a l l . C o l orado alone has 52
peaks of 1 4,000 ft. or more. Per
sons u n acc ustomed to mou ntain
c l i m b i n g s h o u l d be wary of over
exertion and fa l l s .

S K I I NG, u n iversa l w i n t e r sport,


is popular in the Southwest. H i g h
m o u nta i ns with n o rth s l o pes catch
and hold snow u ntil l a te spring.
P o p u l a r s k i runs, m ost with rope
tows or c h a i r l ifts, i n c l ude:
I n Colorado: Aspen , W o l f C reek Pass,
South Pork, and G u n nison. I n Utah:
Ced ar C ity a n d Beaver. I n Nevada: Mt.
C h a r l eston, near Las Vegas. I n New
Mexico: C loudcroft; Raton; Madera; AI
b u q u erque; Tres Ritos; Taos; a n d Aspen
Basin, Sa nta Fe. I n Arizona: Arizona
Snow Bowl, Flagstaff; Upper Sabino C a n
y o n , Tucson; B i l l W i l l iams, Wi l l iams; Min
g u s Mounta in, J erome; a n d S a i n t Agathe,
near Prescott.

Other s k i i n g c e nters in the Southwest (see a lso p. 5):


Mt. Wh itney, C a l if., 1 4,495 ft. Wheeler Peak, N . Mex., 1 3 , 1 5 1 ft.
Mt. E l bert, Colo., 1 4,43 1 ft. Boundary Peak, Nev., 1 3, 1 45 ft.
Kings Peak, Utah, 1 3,498 ft. H u m p h reys Peak, Ariz., 1 2,655 ft.

SPORTS 1 55
OTHER INTERESTING PLACES
T R I PS: Boat T r i ps on C o l o ra d o River; r u g g e d , p r i m itive; from
Marble C a nyon Ariz., Mexican H a t, o r G re e n Rive r, U ta h .
D.&R.G.W. Narrow-gage Rail road - D u ra n g o t o Si lver
ton, Colo., o n l y road of its k i n d in U . S .
"Trai l Riders o f t h e Wi lderness" Pack T r i ps - Write
American Fo restry Assoc., 9 1 7- 1 7th St. N .W., Washington 6,
D. C. S i m i l a r p a c k trips may be a rranged with loca l g u ides.
"Mi l l ion Dollar H ighway" - Ouray to D u r a n g o, C o l o . ;
rugged.
" F o u r Corners" (only place i n U . S . where fou r states meet)
and Goosenecks of San J uan, C o l o .
Inner Grand Canyon Trai ls- M u l e b a c k o r f o o t . P r i m itive
roads to G r a n d C a n yon Nat. Mon., Ariz.
Deep-sea Fish ing- G u lf of C a l ifornia a t P u nta P e n a sco, 60
m i les south of b o rd e r, from O r g a n Pipe C a ctus N a t . Mon.,
Ariz. Other trips i n to Mexico from border cities: J u a rez, Sono
ita, Noga les, Mexica li, A g u a P rieta, etc.
PLAC ES: Astro n o m i cal observatories- McDo n a l d a t Ft.
D avis, Tex.; Lowe l l a t Flagstaff, Ariz.; Paloma r and Mt.
W i lson i n C a l if.
Other National a n d State Parks and Monu ments
W rite to N a t io n a l Park Service, Box 1 72 8, Sa nta Fe, N. Mex.,
and to state ca pita ls.
National Forests-Write to Reg i o n a l Fo rester, U.S. Forest
S e rvice, Federa l B u i l d i n g , A l b u q u e rq u e , N. Mex. for l ist.
Los A lamos, N . Me x . - Ato m Bomb C ity. G a te pass n eeded.
Navajo Ind ian Reservat ion- Chec k road conditions fi rst.
Mormon Tem ples-St. George and Ma n ti, Uta h ; Mesa,
Ariz. N o a d m itta n ce, but beautifu l b u i l d i n g s fro m o u tside.
Salton Sea and I m perial Val l ey, Calif.
ACT I V I T I E S TO WATCH: Logging a t F l a g staff, Ariz. Cattle
r a n c h i n g ( b ra n d i ng, rou n d u ps, etc.) i n m a n y a reas.
Footba l l Games -S u n Bowl, E l Paso; S a l a d Bowl, Phoenix.
Rocket and Guided- m i ssile Tests -W h ite Sands P rovi n g
G ro u n ds, N . M e x . ( N o a d m itta nce; obse rve f r o m a d ista nce.)
1 56
I N DEX
Asterisks (*) den ote pages on which the subjects are i l l u strated .

Acacia, Cotclaw, * 1 0 1 Bison, *72 Cedar, C o l o . Red, *97


Acoma V i l lage, * 1 39 B lack Cany on of the Cedar Breaks, * 1 23
Agate, Moss, * 1 1 2 G u n n i son, * 1 23 Cedar C i ty, 47
Agriculture, * 1 48 Black Mesa, 1 38 Ce ntipede, *67
I nd i a n , 2 1 -37 Black W i dow, *67 Century P l a nts, *90
A l a m i l l o Creek, 1 3 1 B lankets, *39 Cephalaspis, * 1 08
A l a mosa, 45 B l a z i n g-Star, * 8 1 C e rcocarpus, *95
A l b u q uerque, 46 B l i n d Pear, *88 Ceremo n i a l s, 1 3 , 26-3 1 ,
Alder, *96 B l uebird, Mt., *54 3.5, 37, 1 3 8
Al lthorn, 90 B l uebonnet, 82 Cereus, *86
A l p i ne, 4.5 Boat trips, i 56 Chaco Canyon N . M . ,
Altus, 4.5 Bobcat, *73 * 1 37
Amari l l o, 4.5 Bota n i c a l gardens, * 1 47 C h a lcedony, * 1 1 2
Amethyst, * 1 1 2 Boulder Dam, * 1 .50 C h a l copyrite, * 1 1 4
Anasazi, 2 1 , 22, 23, 26 Box e l der, *99 C hemehuevis, 32
Animals: Boxelder Bug, *69 Ch ickadee, Mt., * .54
a n c i e n t , * 1 07- * 1 09 Boyce Thompson Arbor- C h i h u a h u a n H w y . , 43
l i fe zones, .50-.51 etum, 1 47 C h i p m u n k , *74
modern, *53 - *76 B ridges, natura l , '* 1 33 C h i ricahua N. M., * 1 26
refuges, * 1 49 Brittlebush, *83 C hokecherry, *95
Ant, Fire, *70 Bryce Canyon, 1 1 9 C h o l l a , *87
Antelope, *72 Nation a l Park, * 1 22 C h rysoco l l a, * 1 1 4
Apaches, 34, 3.5, 38 Buckbrush, *94 C h u c k w a l l a , *63
Arches, * 1 32 Buffalo, *72 C h u rches, old, 1 4 1
Arches N. M., * 1 32 Bumb lebee, *70 C icada, *69
A r i z . - Sonora Mus., * 1 47 Butterfield Route, 43 Cities, 4.5-47; map, 8-9
Arrowheads, *20, *2.5 Buttes, '* 1 1 8 C l iff d we l l ings, *24,
Arts, I n d i an, *25, *29- * 1 34-* 1 37
*3 1 ' *36-37 Cactuses, *85- *89, * 1 46 C l i m ate, 4, 6
Ash, Arizona Mt., *95 p l a nts like, *90 Coati, *76
Aspen, Quaking, *96 C a lcite, * 1 1 1 Cochise c u l ture, 20, 22
Aster, Leafy-bract, *78 Ca lendar of Events, 1 3 Cocopahs, 32
Aztec R u i n s N. M . * 1 36 Camel Rock, * 1 1 9 C o l o . N. M., * 1 2.5
Azurite ore, * 1 1 4 Camping, * 1 1 C o l o . Springs, 4.5
Canyon d e C h e l l y N . M., C o l umbine, *78
Basalt, * 1 1 6 * 1 3 .5 Comanches, 34, 35
Basketmakers, * 2 1 Canyons, * 1 2 1 - * 1 25, Cone-nosed B u g , '*70
Baskets, *2.5, * 3 1 * 1 3.5, * 1 37 Continenta l Divide, 8-9
Bear, B l a c k , * 7 1 Capitol Reef N . M . , * 1 2.5 Copper, 1 1 4, 1 .52
Beatty, 47 Cardenas, 3 1 Coralbean, * 1 04
Beaver, *7 1 Carlsbad, 46 Coronado, 30, 3 1 , 40
Bee, C a r penter, * 68 C a r l sbad Caverns, 44, Cottonwood, *99
Beeplont, R oc k y Mt., * 1 29 Cougar, *73
*81 Carnotite, * 1 1 4 Cowboy, * 4
Beetles, *68 - * 69 C o rson, Kit, 36, 4 1 Coyote, *7, *73
B i g Bend N. P . , * 1 24 Coso G r a n d e N . M . , Cranesb i l l , *79
B i g h orn, *72 *22, * 1 36 Creosotebush, *1 03
B i rcltt Water, *94 Cathedra l Val ley, 1 26 C rownbeord, Golden,
B i rds, * .53 - * .59, 1 .54 Cau lderas, 1 3 1 *81
B i sbee, 4 1 Caverns, * 1 29 Cypress. * 1 02
1 57
Da m s, 8-9, * 1 50- * 1 5 1 Gahan Ceremon i a l , 35 Hot springs, 1 53
Datura, Sacred, *82 G a i l lardia, *80 H u m m ingbird, *54
Davis, Fort, 1 43 G a l l u p, 35, 46 H u nt i n g , 1 54
Dead h o rse Point, * 1 25 Garden C ity, 45
Death V a l l e y , * 1 46 Geckos, *63 I m pressions, lasting , 7
Deer, *72 Gems, * 1 1 1 , * 1 1 2 I nd i a n s , 1 7-41
Del icate Arch , * 1 32 Gentian, *79 books, 1 7
Desert-Marigold, *82 Geography, 4-6 events, 1 3
Deserts, 5, * 1 26 Geology, 1 05-1 1 9 h i story, 1 7-39
Desert-Se n n a , *84 Gera n i u m , *79 prehistoric, 1 7-25,
Desertw i l l ow, * 1 02 Geron imo, 35, 4 1 * 1 34- * 1 39
Dev i l Dance, 35 G h o s t towns, * 1 2 , 42- Reserva tions, 1 8- 1 9
Diabase, * 1 1 6 43, * 1 42 visiting, 1 1
Dodge City, 45 G i l a Monster, *67 I nformation, trave l , 1 0,
Douglas, 46 G i l i a , Skyrocket, *78 1 20
Drouth, Great, 2 1 , 24 G l obe, 47 I n sects, *68 - *70
Dude ranches, 1 2 G l yptodonts, * 1 09 I ronwood, * 1 0 1
D u rango, 45 G n e i ss, * 1 1 5 I rrigation, *47, * 1 48
Gold, * 1 1 3, 1 52 I v y, Poison, *94
Goldpoppy, *82
Eagle, Golden, * 56 J ackrabbit, *75
Good n i g h t-loving
Earth, story of, 1 06- 1 1 9 J a sper, * 1 1 2
Cattle Drive, 42 -43
E l Centro, 47 1 1Goosenecks," * 1 1 9 , J a y s , *55, * 57
El Paso, 45 1 56 Jerome, * 1 42
E l y , 47 Gopher, Pocket, *75 Jewelry, *25, *29-31
Eoh i p p u s , * 1 09 Jojoba, * 1 04
Gourd, *80
Eryops, * 1 08 J o s h u a Tree, * 1 47
Governor's Palace, * 1 45
Esca l a n te , 34, 40, 42-43 J u n i per, *91 , *93, *97
Grand Canyon, 44,
Events:
* 1 2 1 , 1 56
calendar, 1 3 Koch i n a , 28, 1 3 8
Grand J u nction, 45
timetables, 40, 44 dolls, *1, *31
G r an ite, * 1 1 6
Kenton , 4 5
Great Sand Dunes N . M . ,
K i n o, Father, 4 0 , 1 40
Foiryduster, * 1 04 * 1 28 K i owas, *34
F a r m i n g centers, 1 48 Green River, 47
K i ssi ng B u g , *70
Fees, 1 6 Grouse, Dusky, *54
Kiva, 23, 28
F e l s i te, * 1 1 6 G u i ded m i ssiles, 1 56
F i laree, *84 Gypsum, * 1 1 1 land forms, * 5
F i l lmore, 47 Gypsum Cave, 20 las Vegas, 47
Finch, Rosy, *55 lava, 1 1 6, 1 1 7, 1 3 1
F i re Dance, *35 H a rebe l l , *78 lead ore, * 1 1 3
Firs, *92, *93 Havasu Canyon, 1 39 libera l , 45
Fishing, * 1 54, 1 56 Havasupais, 32, 1 39 life zones, 50-51
F l agstaff, 47 Hawks, *53, * 58 l i mestone, * 1 1 5
F leabane, *79 H e l i u m , 1 53 Lizards, *60, *62, *63,
F l owers, *77-*84 H ighways, map, 8-9 *67
F l uorite, * 1 1 4 H i storical SW, 42-43 locoweed, *80
F l ycatcher, * 59 H i storical timetable, 40 locust, *99
Fool's Gold, * 1 1 1 Hogan, Navajo, *38 logg i n g , 1 56
Footb a l l games, 1 56 Hohokam culture, *22, los A l a mos, 1 56
Forests, national, 1 56 * 1 36 lubbock, 45
Forts, 42-43, 1 43 Honeybee, *70 L u p i n e , .,.. 8 2
" Four Corners," 1 56 Hoover Dam, * 1 50 - 1 5 1
Foxes, *73, *76 H o p i , 26, 3 1 , * 1 38 Magpie, *56
Freedom, 45 Horseback trips, 1 56 Mahogany, Mt., *95
1 58 I N DEX
Malachite ore, * 1 1 4 Museums, 1 45; see also Phoenix, 46, *48
Mammals, *71 - * 76, 1 54 Parks; Monuments Phytosaurs, * 1 09
Mammoth, * 1 08 Pi m a s, 22, 33, 40
Maple, Rocky MI., *96 Notional Monuments Pines, *92, *93, *98
Maps: and Parks, * 1 2 1 - Pipe Spring N . M . , 1 43
H i storica l SW 42 -43 * 1 37; map, 8-9 Pithou ses, * 2 1
Modern SW, 8 - 9 Natural B r idges N . M . , P l a i n s I ndians, 3 4
Reservations, 1 8 1 9 * 1 33 P l a n n i n g trips, 1 0
R i a Grande Pueb los, Natural gas, * 1 53 P l a n ts, 77- 1 04
27 Navajo N. M., * 1 35 l i fe zones, 50-52
topograph ica l, 5 N avajos, * 1 7, 36-39, P lateaus, 5
tours, 1 4 41 P l u me, Ap a che, * 1 00
volcanic fields, 1 1 7 N ighthawk, *59 Poppy, *82
Marmot, * 74 N ightshade, 83 Population, 4
Mead, Lake, 1 50 N utcracker, * 55 Porcupine, * 74
Meadow lark * 56 N u thatch, *55 Potas h mine, 11 1 52
Mesas, * 1 1 8 Pottery, *25, *29, *30
Hopi, 3 1 Prairie Dog, *75
Mesa Verde N . P. , *24 Oak, Gambel, *99 Prehi storic man, 1 725
Mescalbean, * 1 04 Oak Creek Canyon, Prescott, 47
Mesquite, * 1 01 * 1 23 Prickly Pear, *88
Meteor Crater, * 1 30 Observatories, 1 56 Prickly poppy, *83
Mexico, trips to, 1 56 Obsidian, * 1 1 6 Primrose, *80
M i l kvetch, *80 Ocoti II a, *90 Products (ta b l e ) , 49
M i l l i o n D o l l a r H igh- O i l fields, * 1 53 Projectile points, *20,
way, 1 56 Oldest house, * 1 44 *25
Minerals, * 1 1 1 Opal in matrix, * 1 1 2 Pronghorn, *72
Mining, 1 1 1 - 1 1 6, * 1 42 , Open-pit mines, * 1 52 P u e b l o, 45
* 1 52 Oraibi, 3 1 , 1 39 Pueblo Bonito, * 1 37
Missions, * 1 40, * 1 4 1 Ores, 1 1 3 P u e b l o I ndians, 2 1 -3 1
M i st letoe, *91 Organ Pipe Cactus Pueblos, modern, 26-3 1
Modern SW, 44; map, N . M., * 1 46 Pum ice, * 1 1 6
8-9 O u z e l , Water, *55 Purplemat, *84
Mogo l l o n c u lture, 22 Owachomo Bridge, Purple Tinge Pear, *88
Mohaves, 32 * 1 33
Monkshood, *79 Owl, *57 Q u a i l , Gambel, *59
Montezuma Castle N. M., Q u a rtz, * 1 1 2
* 1 35 Pack trips, 1 56 Qui jotoa, * 1 39
Montezuma We l l , 1 3 5 Painted Desert, * 1 26
Monuments, N a t . , * 1 2 1 Paiutes, 3 2 Rabbitbrush, * 1 00
* 1 37, 1 56 P a l m Spri ngs, 47 Racerunner, *63
Monument V alley, * 1 25 Paloverde, Yellow, Rainbow Bridge, * 1 33
Mormon Batta li on, 42 * 1 01 Ra in dance, 3 1
Mormon Tea, * 1 03 Papago Park, 1 47 Rainfa l l , 6, 50-51
Mormon Temples, 1 56 Papagos, 22, 33, 1 39 R a i n making cul t , 28
Mosasaurs, * 1 09 Paperflower, *84 Rancherias, 3 2
Moths, * 6 8 , *69 Parks, 1 2 1 - 1 37, 1 56 Ranches, 1 2
Mountaineering, * 1 55 Patayan cu lture, 22 Raspberry, W il d , *95
Mountain Lion, *73 Pear, Engelmann's, *88 Rat, Kangaroo, 1176
Mountains: Penstemon, *81 Raton, 46
formation of, * 1 1 8 Petrified Forest N . M . , Rattlesnakes, *66
highest, 5, 1 55 * 1 27 Rattleweed, *84
l ife on, 50-51 Phainopeplo, *58 Raven, *53
Mourning Dove, * 56 Phoebe, Soy, * 57 Refuges, w i l d l ife, 1 49
I N D EX 1 59
Religion, 28, 3 1 ; see Shiprock, * 1 3 1 Towhee, Brown, *57
also Ceremo n i a l s S h ootingstar, *79 Trave l information,
Reptiles, *60-* 67 Shrike, *58 1 0- 1 2, 1 20
Reservati ons, map, 1 8 Shrubs, *91 , *93-*97, Trees, *9 1 - *93, *96-
Ringta i l , *76 * 1 00, * 1 03, * 1 04 *99, * 1 01 , * 1 02
Road map, 8 -9 Sidewinder, *66 Trips, 1 4- 1 6, 1 56
Roadr nner, *58 Sightseeing, 1 20, 1 56 Tucson, 46
Rockch uck, *74 S i l i ca, * 1 1 2 Tumacacori, 1 40
Rocket tests, 1 56 Si lver, *.1 1 3 , 1 52 Turquoise, * 1 1 1
Rocks, * 1 1 1 , * 1 1 2, Si lver City, 46 Turtles, *60, * 6 1
* 1 1 5- * 1 1 6 Si lversmith, *37 Tuzigoot N . M., * 1 36
Rocky Mts., 5 , 1 05, 1 1 8"Sings/' Navajo, 37 Tyra nnosa u r u s, * 1 08
Rooseve l t Dam, 44 Skiing, * 1 55
Roswe l l , 46 Skunkweed, * 8 1 Union, Fort, * 1 43
Royal Gorge, * 1 23 S k y Harbor, *48 U . S . Fish and W ild l ife
Rugs and blankets, *39 Sloth, Ground, * 1 09 Service, 1 49
Ruins, 22-27, 1 37 Smoketree, * 1 04 Uranium ore, * 1 1 4
Snakeb ite, 66 Uta, C l imbing, *62
Sagebrush, Big, * 1 00 Snake dance, 3 1 , 1 38 Ute I ndians, 34
Saguaro, *86 Snakes, 60, *64- *66
Saguaro N . M., * 1 47 Snakeweed, * 8 1 V a l l ey of Fire State
St. Francis of Assisi Sobaipuris, 1 40 Park, * 1 26
Mission, * 1 4 1 Spanish conquest, 1 7, Valley of Goblins, * 1 26
Sal ida, 45 26, 30, 3 1 Volcanoes, 1 1 6, * 1 1 7,
Salmonberry, *94 Spear poi nts, *20 * 1 30, 1 3 1
Saltbush, * 1 03 Spruces, *92 Wa lapai, 3 2
San Angelo, 45 Squirrels, *74, *75 Walkingstick, *68
Sanctuario de C h i mayo, Statistics, 49
Wa lpi, Old, * 1 38
* 1 41 Stick leaf, * 8 1 Waterpocket Fold, * 1 25
Sand d u n e areas, 1 28 Sunset C rater, * 1 30
Weaving, Navajo, *38
Sandia c u lture, 20 Supai V i l lage, * 1 39 White House Ruin, * 1 35
Sand painting, *36 Swift, *63 White Oaks, * 1 2
Sandstone, * 1 1 5 Sycamore, *1 02 White Sands N . M . ,
Sandverbena, *83
* 1 28
San Francisco Peaks, Tamarisk, * 1 02
White Sands Proving
* 1 05 Taos I ndians, *26, *28
Grounds, 1 56
San Jose de Tumaca Taran tula, *67
Wild- potato, *83
cori, * 1 40 Tarant u l a Hawk, *68
W i l l ow , Peach leaf, *96
San J uan Gooseneck, Temperatures, 6
Winslow, 47
*119 Tesota, * 1 01
Wolfberry, * 1 03
San Miguel, * 1 41 Tex ti les, *29, *39
Woodpeckers, * 54, *59
Santa E lena Canyon, Th imb leberry, *94
Wrens, * 56, *58
* 1 24 Thorns, *90
Wupatki, N. M., * 1 36
Santa Fe, 46, * 1 44- Thrasher, Crissal, *59
* 1 45 Timetables of events, Yarrow, Western, *78
Santa Fe Tra i l , 40-43 40-4 1 , 44 Yell ow Jacket, *70
San Xavier, * 1 4 1 Time zones, 8-9 Yuccas, *90, 1 24
Schi st, * 1 1 5 Titanotheres, * 1 08 Yuman I n d i ans, 32
Scorpion, *67 Toad, H orned, *62
Seasons , trave l , 1 6 Tombstone, 41 , * 1 42 Zinc ore, * 1 1 3
Sel ls, 1 39 Tonto N. M., * 1 35 Zinnia, *80
Serviceberry, * 1 00 Topography, 5 Zion N . P., * 1 22
Shalako, *3, 30 Tortoise, Desert, *61 Zones, l ife, 50-51
Sheep, Mt., *72 Tours, 1 4- 1 6, 1 56 Zuni I ndians, 26, 30
1 60 I NDEX
THE AMERICAN SOUTHWEST
A G O LD E N R E G I O N AL G U I D E

NATT N . DODGE is a Regional Natura l ist in


the Natio n a l Park Service, and a long-time
resident of the Southwest. His knowledge of
the region and its lore is encyclopedic. He has
contributed many a rticles on nature subjects
to both scientific and popu lar magazines.

HERBERT S. ZIM, Ph.D., outstanding a uthority


on science education a n d Professor of Educa
tion, U niversity of I l linois, is wel l known in pro
fession a l circles a n d to a wide reading public.
He is co-a uthor of the Golden Nature Guides:
B irds, Flowers, Insects, Stars, Trees, Reptiles
and Amphibians, Mammals, and Seashores.

MIRIAM a n d ARCH H U RFORD l ive in Santa


Fe, contribute to a variety of nation a l mag
azines, a n d have i l lustrated l iterally hundreds
of textbooks.
T H E S O U T H W E S T
I n c l u d i n g New Mexico, Arizona a n d
a d j a cent a re a s of Uta h , C o l o ra d o ,
K a n sa s, O kl a h om a , T e x a s , Neva d a ,
C a l iforn i a , a n d the M e x i c a n b o rd e r.

A GOLDEN R E G I O N A L GU I D E

ANCIEN T RUINS PLAN TS

MAN -MADE WON DERS W ILDLIFE NATU RAL W O N DERS

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