PROJECT BY AMANDA WALKER | SUITABLE FOR BEGINNERS | SHOULD TAKE A MAGICAL WEEKEND OF GYPSY BLISS

SWITCH UP THE HIPPY USE OU

EXCLUS R
VIBE WITH A PATTER IVE
N
OUT TO PULL-

GYPSY YOUR OMAKE

WN!

blouse

GET THE LOOK! SHOES £24.99, TK MAXX (01923 473561); TROUSERS AND NECKLACE FROM A SELECTION AT H&M (0344 736 9000)
to stretch your shirring skills
Creating something casual and cute can still be
technically satisfying, and this issue is your chance
to get stuck in with shirring. Amanda Walker’s
lovely gypsy blouse, which can be worn either
on or off the shoulder, deploys the technique to
create a versatile fitted waist that’s guaranteed to
give you a snug fit, whatever your shape. With just
two pattern pieces and the opportunity to work
with the easy charms of Broderie Anglaise and
ribbon work, this sweet make is your ticket to a
groovy fashion trip!

ESSENTIAL KIT
Broderie Anglaise, 1.7m
Satin ribbon, 4m x 5mm
Reel of shirring elastic
Matching thread
MEASUREMENT:
Custom sized

Find guide
online makeit
today.co.uk

Make it Today!
 “Shirring is a great way to add detail to a garment and
it also serves a purpose. In this project, it is used to pull
in the waistline of the top, but it could just as easily be
used to pull in the waist at the top of a skirt.”
AMANDA WALKER, DESIGNER

CUTTING GUIDE:
Front and back: Cut two on fold
Sleeve: Cut one pair
Use 1.5cm seam allowances

GYPSY BLOUSE
1 Match the two front and back top
pieces together with the right sides
of the fabric facing. Pin the side seams
and stitch together. Neaten the seam
allowances and press towards the back.

2 Line up the edges of the sleeve with

right sides facing, pin and stitch. Neaten
the seam allowance and press one way.
Repeat with the other sleeve, but
press the seam allowance in the
opposite direction.

3 Stitch the sleeves into the armhole.

Turn the sleeves to the right side and
match the notches on the armholes to
the notches on the sleeves. Pin, stitch
and neaten the seam allowances.

4 Fold and press in 1.5cm, then another

1.5cm around the upper raw edge of
the top. Pin and edge-stitch in place,

FABRIC L VE
creating a channel. Leave a small gap in
the centre front. Repeat around the base
of the sleeves, leaving a gap in the centre
of the stitching line.

5 With a safety pin at one end, thread

a length of ribbon through the channel
in the top, accessing it through the
gap in the stitching. Leave 20cm of
ribbon extending at both ends beyond
the entry point.

6 Thread the two ends of the ribbon

to the right side through holes in the
Broderie Anglaise close to the stitching
gap. Close the gap with machine or hand
stitches. Repeat on the sleeves channels.
Pull the ribbons up, gathering to it.
creates a visual effect that is both
7 Stitch the shirring elastic to the base,
following one of the two methods
described in The Knowledge (see p44).
Sew as many rows as you like; we
attached seven rows at 1cm intervals.
BRODERIE ANGLAISE
This cute fab has a satisfying
handle, while the beautiful
combination of white loral
stitching and regular peep holes
coy and provocative. Available
for £12.90 per metre from
dragonlyfabrics.co.uk.
PLEASE TURN OVER
GYPSY BLOUSE
 WORKING WITH BEFORE

SHIRRING
Helpful hints from the
WI’s Sarah Cleverly
Shirring works best with
lightweight fabrics, so choose
summery cotton lawns,
quilting cottons or even
lightweight jerseys.
Wind your bobbin with
shirring elastic by hand without
pulling it taut.
Your top thread will usually
be in a co-ordinating colour, but
there’s nothing to stop you using
SHIRRING
a contrasting shade to really
make a feature of it.
After marking out your first
line of sewing, use the edge of
your machine foot to keep each
row of stitching an even width
apart. Don’t worry if the first
rows don’t gather up; the
more rows you sew, the more
it will gather.
Give the shirred fabric a blast
of steam from your iron to pull
the gathers up when you’ve
finished sewing. Hover the iron
rather than pressing.

AFTER

THE KNOWLEGE
YOU CAN APPLY THE SHIRRING
ELASTIC IN ONE OF TWO WAYS

1 Wind the elastic on to a bobbin by

hand: this needs to be evenly wound
with consistent tension. This method
can only be used on machines
where the bobbin is placed into a
bobbin case and the tension can be
adjusted. This enables the elastic to
be stretched as it exits the bobbin; as
the stitching is produced, gathering
is created. Work is carried out on the
right side of the garment.
2 Most new machines have a
drop-in bobbin so the tension can’t
be adjusted. In this case, the elastic SARAH
is laid directly on to the wrong side CLEVERLEY,
of the fabric and a narrow zigzag THE WI
stitch applied over the top of the Sarah, who learnt
elastic, leaving a small length loose to sew at primary
at both ends of your work. Place the school sewing
elastic in the centre of the machine club, enjoys making her own clothes
foot. Stretch the elastic as you stitch, and following the online sewing
or pull up the elastic after sewing community. She joined the Women’s
to create the gathers. Tie the two Institute two years ago and is now
ends in a knot to secure, or stitch the president of Chase Meadow WI
over the top. in Warwick.

Make it Today!