How your strength and other factors affect your climbing performance
„There is no such thing as enough strength“ – looking at this quote by Franconian climbing
legend Wolfgang Güllich, climbing and strength seem inextricably linked. Which climber
doesn’t know the sensation, feeling strong and being able to overcome the omnipresent
force of gravity for a short while?
But pure muscular strength is just one part of your body’s own resources that you can train,
and that are all equally important for the physical activity “climbing”. Climbing is more than
just pull-ups on a wall! Turning to sports science, we would say that – regarding strength –
there is a spectrum of different factors determining your performance, one of them being
your health-related fitness (in contrast to skill-related fitness for example, like coordination
or sport-specific techniques). Well then, so improving strength as one of the factors should
also improve your performance, shouldn’t it? Unfortunately it’s not so easy! Exercise science
more and more acknowledges that increasing your performance through training is a highly
complex process where several interacting factors are involved, and which cannot be fully
explained by linear models (Hottenrott & Neumann, 2010). Likewise, the traditional
supercompensation model does not sufficiently explain physiological adjustments triggered
by exercise and the complex interrelations involved in the process. Therefore exercise
scientists increasingly develop new models, employing information from different scientific
disciplines like molecular biology (Neumann & Berbalk, 1991) or human engineering (Olivier,
Marshall & Büsch, 2008). Specific mental processes and psychological strain during training
and the resulting processes of coping with this kind of stress also have to be considered
(Schlicht, 1989). Some of these new models have already been adopted successfully in
strength training, as the regulation of fitness and fatigue levels in dual factor theory. In
contrast to supercompensation theory dual factor training regards fatigue and fitness as two
separate processes, and therefore allows for a more complex planning of load, fatigue and
performance (Zatsiorsky & Kraemer, 2008). Nevertheless, there is no model that is able to
fully describe the interplay of all possible training stimuli with the human body. As a result, it
is essential to attain a basic knowledge of contemporary exercise physiology as well as to
listen to your own body and to trust a good coach and his experience.
Let’s come back to strength as one aspect of your health-related fitness: You can’t optimize
your climbing performance if you treat strength as a single, isolated component. We will try
to keep everything as simple as possible but as complex as necessary.
In order to utilize muscular strength for certain movements you always have to look at
components of health-related fitness (such as maximum strength or strength-endurance)
and skill-related fitness combined, as can be seen in the following chart:
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Introduction to effective climbing training
Fig. 1: Interactions between health- and skill-related aspects of fitness, both of which affect
your performance
You can only make the most of your health-related fitness (fig. 1, on the left) and utilize it
efficiently if you manage to coordinate and control it while you actually move (fig. 1, on the
right). Studies even show that improving your strength very fast can have a negative impact
on the coordinative skills needed for sport-specific movements (Platonov, 1999). In the long
run it is essential that you combine these elements in your training. However, it is even a bit
more complex: Your mental state and tactics also play a role when you try to make use of
your physical fitness. Noted exercise scientist Arturo Hotz even considers the enhancement
of timing to be the true goal of physical exercise. It means the ability to perform the
demanded or planned movement in a spatial and temporal perfectly attuned way, managing
and conserving the available energy most effectively (Hotz et al., 2005).
Mental State
Motivation,
self-efficacy, etc.
Health-Related Skill-Related
Fitness Fitness
Maximum strength, Timing Coordination,
strength-endurance, orientation,
etc. rhythm, etc.
Tactical Aspects
Assessment of physical strain in a
specific situation, planning of
actions, etc.
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Introduction to effective climbing training
This may sound somewhat abstract, and we would have to write a whole book about it to
relate all the relevant details to the actual processes during training. However, your most
important guiding principle should be:
During your training, always try to achieve a balance and bear in mind all the four aspects!
We don’t want to be too theoretical, so let’s skip the usual scientific terminology and
definitions. If you would like to deepen your knowledge on this topic, you will find useful
references in the bibliography.
Still, we need at least some basics – successful training requires a systematic and well-
organized approach, and thus you should have at least some concept of what you’re actually
doing.
The following chart illustrates the different ways that muscles work, which are also relevant
for climbing:
Muscular
Strength
Isometric
Dynamic
(Static)
Contractions
Contractions
Concentric Eccentric
(Lengthening) Contractions (Shortening) Contractions
Plyometric Contractions
(Stretch-Shortening Cycle)
During an isometric (static) contraction your muscle is held at a fixed, constant length, i.e.
there is a resistance, but no visible movement (for example, you’re hanging off a climbing
hold). A shortening of the muscle generates concentric force: you move your muscle against
a resistance, e.g. raising weights or your own body’s weight. A typical exercise would be pull-
ups. An eccentric (negative dynamic) contraction means a controlled lengthening of the
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Introduction to effective climbing training
muscle due to a high load, e.g. you can’t hold a lock-off anymore and you have to lower your
arms.
Types of strength
In addition to the different muscle contractions there are also several types of strength. The
following chart shows a well-established way to structure these types:
Maximum Strength
Explosive Reactive
Strength Strength
Fig. 4: The different types of strength (based on Boeckh-Behrens & Buskies, 2005 resp. Güllich
& Schmidtbleicher, 1999)
Your maximum strength is the most basic type of strength; it is the maximum amount of
force you can willingly exert. This voluntary effort differs from the maximum
musculoskeletal force you are involuntarily capable of producing in one single contraction,
i.e. by means of an electrical stimulation unit (absolute strength = 100%). Through exercising
you can increase the percentage from 70% (untrained) up to approx. 95% (Güllich &
Schmidtbleicher, 1999).
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Introduction to effective climbing training
Speed-strength enables you
Speed-strength to produce
enables you tothe greatest
produce thepossible
greatestimpulse
possibleinimpulse
a short amount
in a shortofamount of
time (power = product of strength and speed). The ability to increase the
time (power = product of strength and speed). The ability to increase the force of this
force of this
impulse asimpulse
quickly as
as quickly
possibleasispossible
called explosive strength (Güllich & Schmidtbleicher, 1999).
is called explosive strength (Güllich & Schmidtbleicher, 1999).
In climbing, this type of strength (your maximum dynamic strength) is required when
In climbing, this type of strength (your maximum dynamic strength) is required when you you
want to bump
wantortoperform
bump ora perform
dyno. a dyno.
Dimensions of strength
Dimensions in climbing
of strength performance
in climbing performance
The following
The chart shows
following theshows
chart different
thetypes of strength
different types ofasstrength
distinct as
dimensions (cf. Olivier(cf.
distinct dimensions et Olivier et
al., 2008) we
al., can
2008)create an outline
we can of outline
create an climbing-specific strength: strength:
of climbing-specific
There is a clear emphasis on the dimensions “High Maximum Strength Effort”, “Strength-
Endurance” and “Speed/Explosive Strength”. However, in contrast to other sports like
weight lifting or rowing the requirements in climbing are much more diverse – which also
means that you always have to make sure that you don’t neglect one of the types of
strength in your training.
You can specifically train for a type of strength mentioned above; the respective basic
methods are listed as follows. You should bear in mind that the numbers of repetitions and
sets as well as indications concerning the intensity of the exercises can only be a guideline.
To give more precise instructions is rather difficult due to gradual transitions and differing
research findings.
There are two basic methods of how to train your maximum strength (Zatsiorsky & Kraemer,
2008).
Further instructions:
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Introduction to effective climbing training
A technique to correctly determine the load for this method is to figure out your maximum
strength (100%). However, with many of our exercises this might be rather complicated and
it often didn’t turn out to be feasible. We concur with Boeckh-Behrens & Buskies (2005) who
recommend identifying the number of maximum repetitions by trial and error and through
additional weight or assisting counterweights.
Isometric or
concentric force,
ranging from slow
to more quick
movements
Submaximal Method: You don’t have to repeat until failure (to the point of momentary
muscular failure, where your muscle can no longer move), but you can stop shortly
before that (e. g. 10 instead of maximum possible 12 reps). This is sufficient to trigger
hypertrophy (muscle fiber growth), however, it is not enough to exploit the full number
of muscular fibers that could be stimulated by a more enhanced neural drive (Zatsiorsky
& Kraemer, 2008). We recommend this method for beginners.
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Introduction to effective climbing training
How to train your speed and explosive strength (power)
This method is particularly suitable for advanced athletes and pros – for them this kind of
training should definitely be part of their workout. Training speed and explosive strength
is often neglected, even though explosive strength is essential for climbing moves! It
helps you to optimize your movements and your intermuscular coordination in general.
You should choose the number of repetitions in a way that your muscles are not
exhausted too quickly.
This method is only suitable for pros. It requires a lot of experience, and you could easily
get injured. Certain campus board exercises are perfect for improving your reactive
strength (see exercise descriptions).
The Medium Effort/High Repetitions Method (cf. Boeckh-Behrens & Buskies, 2005)
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Introduction to effective climbing training
Ranging from slow necessary)
to more quick
movements
This method is suitable for everyone. It is a basic method to train your climbing-specific
strength-endurance.
To achieve the long-term goal of improving your performance in a certain sport through
strength training (which is our philosophy) you need to know some basic principles. Below
are the ones we consider to be most important; where it is necessary, we added a short
explanation.
- Maximum number of repetitions: your set ends after the last fully executed
repetition of your exercise
- Point of momentary muscular failure (MMF): after the last fully executed repetition
you keep going until you are unable to continue
- Point of momentary muscular failure plus high-intensity training methods (PMF+):
At the point where a complete repetition fails you either try to hold it statically for a
short period of time and then release at a controlled, slow speed or you have a
training partner assist you with the repetition. This equally applies to
bouldering/climbing. If your training goal is to increase your strength you should plan
a systematic workout for bouldering/climbing according to the above-mentioned
criteria, depending on further objectives of your strength training.
• Train progressively
This is a classic training principle (Weineck, 2007). In accordance with your own
training goals it is important to systematically increase health-related, skill-related,
tactical and mental challenges step by step (also see fig. 2). Other areas may
compensate an unbalanced progression for a while, but in the end there will be
stagnation in performance. The problem is that many climbers see the cause of this
stagnation in something else, until some time has passed and changing your training
is getting more and more difficult! There are many different options to give your
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Introduction to effective climbing training
muscles a further challenge: Increase the volume (e. g. more sets), the intensity (e. g.
more difficult boulder problems or exercises), skill-related challenges (e. g. more
complex exercises) or tactical challenges (e. g. enter a competition).
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Introduction to effective climbing training
progress (in spite of providing enough stimulus) these might be the first signs of
overtraining. This can lead to tedious problems and overload injuries, which can
compromise your performance and your overall health for a very long time!
Training basics:
Before you get started here are some training basics you should keep in mind:
1. Always warm up
Ideally you should activate your cardiovascular system first, e. g. you could do
some easy running (general warm-up). If you can’t go for a run you can also
do some gymnastic exercises (e. g. jumping jacks, single-legged hoppers,
double-legged jumps, basic jumps). Then you should perform a quick
stretching routine (hold the stretch for about 8 seconds). After that do some
strength exercises at a low or middle intensity (e. g. some quick lock-offs at
the climbing wall or locking off in different pull-up positions). Afterwards turn
to some coordinative exercises you know from gymnastics (e. g. turning
cartwheels or dive rolls). Last but not least perform a more specific warm-up
at low or middle intensity at the climbing or bouldering wall, depending on
the goal of your training session.
Some further advice we would like to give you is about your general attitude towards
training, which we think is very important. Asking yourself some questions prior to
your training (leaving aside exercises and repetitions) can be of great assistance:
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Introduction to effective climbing training
forward to train everything work out, by hook or by crook
I’m curious how the training will go I’m stuck in my routine and I only train
today and I often think of new because I have the feeling that I have to
exercises
I have a training plan and I know I don’t have a plan and do my training
what to do next willy-nilly
I have some reasonable goals I want I don’t have any goals I want to achieve
to achieve through training through my training
After my training I allow myself to After the training there is other stress
enjoy some rest and relaxation waiting for me
Aside from the above-mentioned basic training methods there are also some special
methods we would like to share with you.
• Complex Training
Complex Training (not to be confused with complex strength training, which
resembles circuit training) is suitable mostly for highly trained athletes who don’t
seem to be able to increase their strength any further (Ebben, 2002). Complex
Training is basically training in supersets: the first set with an intense reactive or
explosive strength exercise and the second set with a similar plyometric exercise.
This only works for exercises that require a high explosive effort of course (e. g.
performing a front lever is not suitable as you are first and foremost training your
isometric strength). The number of repetitions of the second (plyometric) set should
be 3-10 (Hörst, 2008). Regarding the length of rest periods between the two sets of a
superset, recommendations range from no rest at all (Hörst, 2008) up to 3 minutes
(Ebben, 2002). Either way, it is essential to fully recover between supersets (up to 5
minutes)!
• Long-duration Isometrics
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Introduction to effective climbing training
Described by Eric Hörst (2012), the goal of this method is the activation of as many
muscle fibers as possible. It involves isometric (static) exercises, holding the
contraction for 30-60 seconds. Therefore climbing-related exercises that require an
isometric effort are particularly suitable for this training method (e. g. pull-ups, lock-
offs on the campus board, system training or finger strength exercises).
• Core Training
The ‘core’ basically refers to the bodily region between your shoulders and knees
(hip/pelvic girdle, spinal musculature, abdominal region). According to Gustedt
(2013) this area of your body is generally responsible for generating strength, and is
therefore the basis and starting point for every movement you make. The total
number of muscles in this area adds up to 29, and there are two different muscle
groups: local and global muscle groups. They differ in the type of muscle fiber (slow-
twitch and fast-twitch) and in the extent of muscle activation in respect to the
amount of resistance. Hence we can distinguish between core strength (global
muscle groups: large movements of the trunk) and core stability (local muscle
groups: stabilizing the spinal column and holding it in alignment). As these muscles
work in sync they should be trained together (Gustedt, 2013). To achieve this you can
do exercises that require movement and a stabilization of your body at the same
time. You can also use unstable implements (the sling trainer for example is perfect
for this kind of training).
You will find several options how you can train your strength and other climbing
skills. There is generally an emphasis on strength exercises of any kind; however, the
chapter “Bouldering Wall” provides you with the full range of relevant activities to
improve your climbing skills (see fig. 2). Every chapter starts with a short description
of the specific “training tool” and the respective types of strength involved.
Afterwards you will find exercises that have proved to be most successful in our
coaching work. The given numbers of repetitions/sets as well as the length of rest
periods are based on our experience, and commonly used in our training. Of course
you can deviate from them and also vary in your training methods. Nevertheless, the
numbers provided may help you to get started.
To make it easier for you we made a distinction between exercises for beginners,
more advanced athletes and pros, based on average values. In the end, what matters
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Introduction to effective climbing training
most is your individual experience and judgment: if you used to do a lot of
gymnastics it will be a lot easier for you to use rings than for someone who has never
had any experience with rings whatsoever. We also indicated which exercises mainly
train your explosive and reactive strength, as these kinds of exercises are often
overlooked in climbing training.
Last but not least some advice about how to plan your training:
Beginners
The focus of your training should be on climbing and bouldering (about 70-80%).
General strength exercises should constitute about 20-30% of your training (to
increase your body tension and strengthen your shoulder girdle). More specific
strength exercises like isolated finger training should only be part of your training
occasionally (not more than 5%). Don’t forget to train your antagonists!
Advanced athletes
If you already work with training plans you should systematically vary your exercises,
your training methods and the training volume over the course of a year
(periodization). The amount of specific strength exercises should generally increase a
bit (10-20%), while general strength exercises can be reduced to 10-20%. Training
your antagonists is still essential! At least 60% of your training should be climbing and
bouldering.
Pros
As a pro you work with training plans and probably also with a coach, who should
analyze your strengths and weaknesses, compile your training plans and talk them
over with you. The focus should be on your remaining weaknesses. Specific high-
intensity training methods like working on your explosive strength on the campus
board can constitute up to 40% of your training. Even so, bouldering and climbing
should always take up at least half of your training time!
Bibliography
(...)
___________________________
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analyze your strengths and weaknesses, compile your training plans and talk them
spezifische Krafttrainingsmethoden wie z.B. das Explosivkrafttraining am Hangelbrett können
over with you. The focus should be on your remaining weaknesses. Specific high-
zeitweise bis zu 40% Deiner Trainingsinhalte ausmachen. Dennoch solltest Du auch hier immer mehr
intensity training methods like working on your explosive strength on the campus
Introduction to effective climbing training
als die Hälfte Deines Trainings durch Klettern und Bouldern absolvieren.
board can constitute up to 40% of your training. Even so, bouldering and climbing
should
always take up at least half of your training time!
Bibliography
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Faries, M. D., Greenwood, M. (2007). Core training: Stabilizing the confusion. Strenght & Conditioning
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