24th Issue, Vol. 3, No.

9 ISSN 2094-1765 September 2010

GROWING SITAW

The Sitaw (Vigna unguiculata, subspecies sesquipedalis) or

popularly known in Engish as long bean, yard-long bean,or
snake bean) is a common and popular vegetable usually
planted by Filipino farmers. The vegetable belongs to the
pinakbet and sinigang group of vegetables..

In the photo, women harvesting sitaw vegetable from their

farm (left); sitaw tied with rubber bands in the market (right)
and sample of sitaw seeds ready for planting.

Basically there are two types of sitaw, one is the bush type and
the other is the vine type. The bush type is relatively easy to
grow, all you need is a good patch of fertile loamy soil, 5 gallon
containers filled with rich potting soil would do. Sitaw seeds
can be purhased from your local agricultural store and they
can be directly planted to the soil at about 1in depth. They are
fairly fast growers. If taken care of properly in about a month you will get your first
homegrown sitaw!

Sitaw grows well under lowland tropics, both in low and high areas. Can be grown in many kinds of soil
and is more tolerant to acid soils, however, it is susceptible to water-logging and drought which reduce
yield considerably. Seed production is best during dry season to avoid rotting of pods and germination of
seeds while in the pod.

In planting, choose an area which has not been planted to other varieties of pole sitaw for two seasons to
avoid contamination of seeds from the previous crop

1
Prepare land thoroughly by mechanical means or with the use of animal drawn implements. Make sure to
breakdown big clods. Space the furrows 75 cm apart.

Pole sitaw is usually direct seeded but can be transplanted. It requires 10-12 kg seed per hectare. In the
field with 0.75 m furrow rows, plant the first two rows leaving the third row vacant and again on the next
two rows, leaving the next row unplanted. This is to provide space to perform other field operations more
efficiently within the trellis. If furrows are 1 m wide, plant every row. Plant 2-3 seeds per hill spaced 30
cm apart and cover lightly with soil. 2-3 weeks after planting, thin out weak and diseased seedlings
leaving behind one healthy plant per hill.

Fertilize plants by applying 10 gm or 1 tbsp complete fertilizer (14-14-14) per hill before planting and
cover with soil. Add a handful or two of well decomposed manure. At early vegetative stage or a month
after sowing, sidedress about 15 g of a mixture of 2 parts Urea (46-0-0) and 1 part Muriate of Potash (0-0-
60). Use rhizobium inoculants (a bio-fertilizer) to reduce fertilizer rate. The inoculant is mixed with the
seed prior to planting.

Irrigate immediately after planting to ensure uniform seed germination. During the dry months, furrow
irrigate every 10 days. Irrigate only when necessary during wet season. Construct drainage canals at the
end of rows to avoid flooding.

Hand-weed thoroughly the planted rows. Underbrush or rotavate the large spacing in between rows.

Build a trellis when vines are long enough, so they can climb. Lay-out 2.5 m long and 2-2.5 m diameter
poles. 4-5 m apart along the planted rows. Connect the poles at the top along the rows with wire (#16)
and tie the top wire to a posted stake at the end of the row to make the poles stable. Connect the poles
along the rows in the middle and lower portion of the poles with wire. Cut abaca twine or synthetic
twisted twine and tie them vertically from the top to the bottom wires in every hill. Intertwine the vine in a
counterclockwise manner to the vertical strings. As substitute, one may use bamboo branches or “siit”
where sitaw vines can climb.

Sitaw is a host and a favorite of various insect pest like the Beanfly (Ophiomyia phaseoli Tyron); Bean
pyralid or beanfly borer (Maruca testulalis Geyer); Blackcutworm (Agrostis ipsilon); Leafhopper
(Empoasca spp.); Aphids (Aphis craccivora Kock); and Leafminer (Stomopteryx subsecivella Zeller). To
control them: spray appropriate insecticides and keep the planting area clean.

To control diseases, choose disease free (virus free) seeds and control insect population. Apply
fungicides is there is severe fungal (rotting) infestation.

Harvest pods when physiologically mature or when pods have turned leathery brown. Harvest three times
a week at peak harvest.

For seed production, choose mature pods from selected plants. Dry pods under the sun 2-3 days or until
brittle. Put dried pods in net bag and beat manually with stick, or by rubbing and splitting by hand in the
absence of threshing machine. Remove trash by winnowing or by passing through an air screen cleaner.
Sort out small and wrinkled seeds and seeds with holes. Dry under the sun for 4-5 days or until moisture
content is 11% or less.

2
 GROWING SQUASH

Squash or kalabasa is a viny, creeping and trailing

crop producing fruits and considered to be one of
the most delicious vegetables. It is the most
commonly and regularly grown among the cucurbits
due to its rich source of Vitamin A, phosphorous and
calcium . The young and tender shoots make good
vegetable salad. The fruit is excellent for ginataan
especially in the Bicol region.

Though this crop has long been known in the

country, its cultivation is mostly confined in the
backyard scale. Most of the areas devoted to
squash production are generally the Ilocoas region,
Cagayan Valley, Southern Tagalog and Bicol.
However, the premier provinces producing this crop
fro semi-commercial scale are Batangas, Laguna,
Nueva Ecija, Leyte and Davao.

Squash is a rich of vitamin A in amount comparable

to the degree of yellow color. The young shoots,
flowers and fruits are used as vegetables, it is
palatable when cooked alone or in combination with
other vegetables, fish and meat. Matured can be
made into pies and other delicacies. In addition,
seeds of mature fruits can be boiled in slated water,
Edible Squash Flowers dried like watermelon seeds, roasted and used as snack food.

3
Squash can be grown in both wet and dry season. It has been reported that environment can have a
marked effort development and quality of the fruit. Likewise, warm temperature and low relative humidity
favor good fruit-setting development and quality of the fruit.

It thrives on many types of soil but it

grows well on organic-rich medium
often found on compost or refuse
heaps. A soil pH range of 5.6 to 6.5 is
recommended.

Squash can be grown with minimum

tillage. Clear area and dig holes at
appropriate distances. In open field,
distance of 2-3 meters between hills is
recommended.

For field preparation for squash should

be done by twice plowing and
harrowing then furrow the field at 2
meters apart. Furrows are made with
a native plow or machine tractor to a
depth of 15 cm.

To plant a hectare it needs about 2-4

kilos of good seeds. Squash are
directly planted at the rate of 2-5
seeds per hill, spaced of 2-3 m
between rows and 1 m between hills.
One week after emergence, weak
seedlings are thinned out and allow
only 2 healthy seedlings to grow.

Transplanting is also recommended

especially for F1 varieties to saved seeds and insured seedlings establishment. Sown the seeds in the
seedbed and prick individually in the potlet. Transplanting is done 3 weeks after sowing.

Incorporate animal manure and other compost materials to the soil to improve soil structure.

Vine crops like squash requires an abundant supply of moisture for their maximum plant and fruit
development. Although it is tolerant to drought, but regular irrigation during dry season is highly
recommended to obtain higher yield. Irrigate the field by furrow every 7-10 days interval especially during
the critical stages such as at planting, vegetative, flowering and early productive stages. Do not irrigate
when the fruits are already mature.

Mulching can be made from rice straw, grass clippings and plastic to minimize weeds and to maintain
adequate soil moisture. It is spread on surface of the ground around the plants.

The rate of fertilizer depends on soil analysis. For general recommendation, fertilized at planting time,
early vegetative growth, flowering and fruiting stages. Apply four (4) bags of complete fertilizer at planting
time by band placement together with animal manure, it must be mixed will the soil at the rate of 1-2 kg
per hill, respectively.

As the runners are about 30 cms (approximately 2-3 weeks after planting), sidedress with 3 bags urea
(45-0-0) at the rate of 1-2 tbsp/plant. When the vine of the plant reaches 90 cms (one month after
planting), sidedress 1 bag muriate of potash (0-0-60) in 1-2 tbsp/plant. Additional urea and potash
may be applied every 15 days whenever necessary.

4
Weed the plot by hand pulling and hoeing. For long patches, use an animal-drawn plow. Shallow
cultivation is necessary before the vines cover the ground to keep the soil in good tilth, moist and free
from weeds.

GROWING AMPALAYA
Bitter gourd (Momordica
charantia) is one of the most
popular vegetables in Southeast
Asia. It is a member of the
cucurbit family along with
cucumber, squash, watermelon,
and muskmelon. Native to
China or India, the fast-growing
vine is grown throughout Asia
and is becoming popular
worldwide. Depending on
location, bitter gourd is also
known as bitter melon, karella,
or balsam pear. The immature
fruits and tender vine tips are
used in a variety of culinary
preparations.

The fruits and shoots are

soaked in salt water to remove some of their bitterness and then boiled, fried or pickled. The fruit of bitter
gourd fruit is similar in nutritional value compared to other cucurbits, with the notable exceptions that it is
much higher in folate and vitamin C. The vine tips are an excellent source of vitamin A. The medicinal
value of the gourd in the treatment of infectious diseases and diabetes is attracting the attention of
scientists worldwide. The following suggested cultural practices were developed at AVRDC in the Taiwan
lowlands. Growers may need to modify the practices to suit local soil, weather, pest, and disease
conditions.

Climate and Soil

Requirements

Bitter gourd grows well under

the same conditions preferred
by other cucurbits. It is
normally grown as an annual
crop, but can perform as a
perennial in areas with mild,
frost-free winters. The plant
thrives in the tropics from
lowland areas to altitudes of
up to 1,000 m. Bitter gourd
requires a minimum
temperature of 18°C during
early growth, but optimal
temperatures are in the range
of 24-27°C. It is more tolerant
to low temperatures
compared to other gourds, but cool temperatures will retard growth and frost will kill the plant. The plant is
adapted to a wide variety of rainfall conditions, but regular irrigation is needed to ensure high yield. Bitter

5
gourd tolerates a wide range of soils but prefers a well-drained sandy loam soil that is rich in organic
matter. The optimum soil pH is 6.0-6.7, but plants tolerate alkaline soils up to pH 8.0.

Choosing a Variety

Numerous hybrid and open-

pollinated varieties are available.
Hybrids usually produce higher
yields, but their seeds are
relatively expensive and must be
purchased for every planting.
Open-pollinated varieties have the
advantage that their seeds may
be saved and used for future
plantings. The choice of variety
depends on market preference in
a certain region, and is based on
fruit shape and color. Generally,
there are three types:

1. small, 10-20 cm long, 100-300

g, usually dark green, very bitter;

2. long, 30-60 cm long, 200-600 g, light green in color with medium size protuberances, and only slightly
bitter; and

3.triangular fruit type, cone-shaped, 9-12 cm long, 300-600 g, light to dark green with prominent
tubercles, moderately to strongly bitter.

Select a variety that is well adapted to your growing conditions and preferred by consumers. Growers are
encouraged to compare the performances of different varieties during different seasons to identify
superior types.

Preparing the Field

Thorough land preparation and a well-prepared bed is required. Plow, harrow and rototill the field. Form
2O-cm-high beds during the dry season and 30 cm or higher during the wet season using a plow or
mechanical bed shaper. The distance between centers of adjacent furrows is about 150 cm with a 90-cm
bed top.

Planting

Option 1 - Direct seeding is the most common method of planting. In cooler climates, it may be
necessary to start the seedlings in a greenhouse to ensure good germination.

Optimum plant density differs with variety and usually ranges from 6,500 to 11,000 plants per ha. In some
intensively managed plantings, a closer spacing of 50 x 50 cm is used resulting in 40,000 plants per ha.
On raised beds, sow two or three seeds per hole at a depth of 2 cm. Space holes 40-60 cm apart in rows
spaced 1.2-1.5 m apart. Plant density using this spacing will range from 13,600 to 17,300 plants per
hectare. When planted in warm soil, seedlings will emerge in a week or less. Thin to one seedling when
they have four true leaves.

Option 2. Transplanting

Sow seeds in small plastic pots or containers using a potting mix that has good water-holding capacity
and good drainage such as peat moss, commercial potting soil, or a potting mix prepared from soil,

6
compost, rice hull, and vermiculite or sand. Plant two or three seeds per container and thin to a single
seedling when they have four to six true leaves. Water the seedlings thoroughly every morning to
maintain a moist but not wet soil. Seedlings are ready for transplanting 15-20 days after sowing or when
they are 10-15 cm tall.

Bare-root plants will not survive so pull seedlings with their root balls intact before
transplanting.Transplant seedlings into the field at spacings similar to those used for the direct seeding
method.

Staking and Trellising (Balag)

Bitter gourd grows very fast and vines elongate

rapidly within two weeks after planting.
Thereafter, the plant sends out lateral stems.
Staking and trellising will increase fruit yield and
size, reduce fruit rot, and make spraying and
harvesting easier.

There are several methods of trellising bitter

gourd. At AVRDC, bamboo poles, wood stakes,
PVC pipes or other sturdy material are used to
provide support and keep the fruit and foliage off
the ground. The trellis is arranged either in a
lean-to or tunnel structure. The trellis should be
1.8–2.0 m high, constructed from stakes 1.2–1.8
m apart, which is almost similar to the plant row
spacing.
An Ampalaya flower

For the lean-to type, the stakes are joined between two adjoining beds forming an A-shape structure
(Figs. 4, 5). Horizontal stakes are installed at the top joining all other beds. The stakes support the
climbing vines and lateral stems. Strings are used to secure adjoining stakes. Plantings are easier to
manage and more productive when 2-m-high rather than 1-m-high string trellises are used.

For the tunnel type, plants are grown inside an arch-shape structure made of either PVC or galvanized
iron pipe (Fig. 6). Plants are supported by bamboo stakes where vines freely climb and reach the top. The
vines and lateral stems will then grow along the structure.

Another type of trellising consists of a system of vertical strings running between top and bottom of
horizontal wires, or horizontal wires running across all directions on top as shown in Fig. 7.

Pruning

Bitter gourd develops many side branches that are not productive. To improve yield, remove lateral
branches until the runner reaches the top of the trellis. Leave 4-6 laterals and cut the tip of the main
runner to induce early cropping. Removal of lateral branches in the first 10 nodes has a positive effect on
total yield. Without pruning, most of the female flowers occur between the loth and 40* nodes, or at a
height of 0.5-2.0 m.

Fertilizing

Bitter gourd requires a balance of nutrients from organic and chemical fertilizers. Fertilizer application
rates depend on soil type, fertility level, and soil organic matter. In sandy soils at AVRDC, fertilizer
application consists of a basal application followed by four sidedressings, providing a total of 184 kg N,
112 kg P2O5 and 124 kg K2O per ha (Table 1). In clay or heavy texture soils, the entire amount of P, and
one-third of N and K is applied before planting, either by broadcasting and tilling or by banding a few cm

7
deep and to the side of the plant row in the bed. The balance of N and K is applied in two or more
sidedressings.

No matter the soil type, the first sidedressing is applied when plants have four to six true leaves.
Subsequent sidedressings are applied at two-week intervals. Compost or manure can be used to satisfy
the basal application of organic fertilizer.

Harvesting and Handling

Bitter gourd requires close attention at harvest time. The fruits develop rapidly and must be harvested
frequently to keep them from becoming too large or too bitter. Normally it takes 15–20 days after fruit set
or 90 days from planting for fruit to reach marketable age, however, bitter gourd can be harvested at
earlier stages depending on the purpose for which it will be used. Fruit should be light green, thick and
juicy, and the seeds should be soft and white.

Harvest every 2–3 days using a pair of scissors or a sharp knife to cut the fruit stalk. If a fruit remains too
long on the vine, it will turn spongy, sour, yellow or orange, and split open (Fig. 11).

Bitter gourd yield can vary depending on variety and crop management. Average marketable yields are
8–10 t/ha. A yield of 20–30 t/ha is excellent and some F1 hybrids yield up to 40 t/ha.

Fruits of bitter gourd do not keep long and should be sold in the market immediately. Remove damaged
and deformed fruits. Carefully arrange fruits in bamboo baskets or boxes (Fig. 12) and store in a cool
place at 12–13°C with 85–90% relative humidity. Under this condition, fruit storage life can be extended
2–3 weeks. Bitter gourd is chilling sensitive and damage may occur if kept below 10°C.

Do not store fruits at temperatures above 13°C, as this will result in fruits turning yellow and splitting
open. Keep harvested fruits away from other fruits (such as banana, pineapple and apple) that release
large amounts of ethylene, a ripening hormone.

GROWING MUSTASA
People have been using
mustard as greens, and to spice
up their food for thousands of
years. Its known as the "King of
the Condiments".

Mustard is a fast growing crop.

The leaves are great raw, in
salads, or as a cooked greens,
usually in fish-sinigang. They
are nutritious, and healthy. The
seeds are harvested to make
the condiment that you use on
hotdogs, sandwiches, and more.

Its low in calories and

carbohydrates, yet high in
vitamins. It is high in Vitamin A
and C, contains calcium and
iron. It has cancer fighting beta
carotene, anti-oxidants.

Sow mustard seeds 1/4 to 1/3

8
inch deep, and 3" apart. Thin seedlings to 5" - 9" apart. Separate the rows, 1 foot apart.

Sow seeds early in the morning usually during summer time and another during after rainy season.
Plants usually matures in 45-50 days, however, plants are usually harvested for home cooking at 25
days.

Mustard plants grow well in most good garden soils. They prefer full sun and moderate to cool weather.
Planting successive small crops, separated about a week apart, so that it will result in a continuous
supply of greens.

Mustard plants should be grown quickly. Use plenty of water, and ample amounts of fertilizer, to promote
fast growth of tender, green leaves. Water plants during dry periods.

Keep the plants well weeded, so weeds do not compete for water and nutrients. It makes harvesting
easier, too. To protect against leaf eating insects, you may place a fine meshed-plastic net (similar to a
mosquito net over the plant.

Mustard greens are eaten raw, or cooked. Harvest leaves while young and tender. Pick individual leaves,
or the entire plant. Leaves get tough and have a strong flavor during hot, dry weather.

Mustard seeds should be harvested when the plants begin to yellow. You want to leave them on the
plants as long as possible, but before the pods burst open and spill their seeds. Mustards are relatively
easy to grow.

Mustards are easily attacked by aphids and cabbage worms are common problems. It is recommended
that organic pesticides be used on Mustard plants and other greens.

Mildews can affect the plant. Promote fast growing, healthy plants, so they will be less susceptible to
disease. Allow proper spacing to increase air circulation. Avoid watering towards evening.

THE LEAFY KANGKONG

Kangkong (Ipomoea spp.) is one of
the most popular leafy vegetables in
South and Southeast Asia. It is
known by many names including
swamp cabbage, water convolvulus,
and water spinach. The plant has
flowers that range in color from white
to pink, and its stems come in shades
of green and purple. The leaves are a
good source of protein, vitamin A,
iron, and calcium.

Kangkong is adapted to a wide range

of climate and soil conditions but
requires a relatively high soil moisture
for optimum growth. Soils with high
levels of organic matter are
preferable. The plant produces
optimum yields in the lowland humid
tropics under stable high
temperatures and short daylengths.
Temperatures averaging between

9
25–30°C are ideal. Plants are damaged at temperatures of 10°C or less.

Choosing a variety
There are two common types. Upland kangkong (Ipomoea reptans) has narrow leaves (Fig. 1). It is
adapted to moist soils and is harvested once. Lowland or aquatic kangkong (Ipomoea aquatica) has
broader, arrow-shaped leaves (Fig. 2). It is adapted to flooded conditions and is harvested several times.
Regardless of type, the choice of variety can be influenced by local growing conditions, seasons, and
consumer preferences. Local testing is recommended to identify superior varieties.

Field preparation
Kangkong requires a
well-prepared seed bed
for good seedling
growth. Form 20-cm-
high beds using a plow
or mechanical bed
shaper. The distance
between centers of two
adjacent furrows is
about 150 cm with a 90-
cm bed top. Kangkong
can tolerate flooding
since it is a semi-
aquatic plant, thus,
there is no need for a
raised bed that is high.
Planting methods
Kangkong is planted
either by direct seeding,
transplanting, or using
stem cuttings. The
choice of planting
method depends on the
availability of seed and labor, growing season, and type of kangkong. Direct seeding is used when plenty
of seed is available, labor is limited, and during the dry season when frequency of flooding is less.
Transplanting or using cuttings are preferred when there is limited amount of seed, plenty of labor, and
during the wet season when heavy rains and flooding may wash seeds away. Stem cuttings are used for
lowland Kangkong.

Option 1. Direct seeding

Direct seeding is done either by line-sowing or broadcasting. When line-sown, seeds are sown in rows on
well-prepared seedbeds. Make furrows 1.0–1.5 cm deep and space them 15–20 cm apart. Sow seeds 5
cm apart in rows. Cover seeds with a layer of compost. After developing two to three true leaves, thin
seedlings to stand 10–15 cm apart. On a commercial scale, with a density of 50,000 plants/ ha, 5 kg/ha of
seed is required. Broadcast sowing is used in large intensive production systems Broadcast seeds
uniformly at a rate of 5–10 kg/ha on well-prepared seedbed. Thinning is not necessary.

Option 2. Transplanting
There are two steps to transplanting: seedling production and setting plants into the field. Seedling
production. Seedlings can be grown in divided trays or in seedbeds. The first method is preferred since
there is less damage to the seedlings when they are pulled for transplanting. Use plastic seedling trays
for growing containerized transplants. Seedling trays may vary in sizes.

For kangkong, size 50–100 cell trays with cells approximately 4 cm wide and deep are suitable Fill the
tray with a potting mix that has good water-holding capacity and good drainage. Use peat moss,

10
commercial potting soil, or a potting mix prepared from soil, compost or rice hulls, vermiculite, and/or
sand. AVRDC uses a mixture of 66% peat moss and 34% coarse vermiculite.

If you use non-sterile components

, sterilize the mix by autoclaving
or baking at 150°C for 2 hours.
Sow two or three seeds per cell at
1.0–1.5 cm depth; thin to one
seedling after they develop two or
three true leaves. If seedlings are
started in a raised seedbed, the
soil should be partially sterilized
by burning a 3–5 cm thick layer of
rice straw or other dry organic
matter on the bed. The burned
ash also adds minor amounts of P
and K to the soil, which helps
establish the seedlings. Sow
seeds in furrows 0.5–1.0 cm deep,
spacing seeds 3–5 cm apart in
furrows spaced 5 cm apart. Cover
with soil. Cover the seedbeds with
an insect-proof net or sow them inside a screenhouse. This provides shade and protects seedlings from
heavy rain and pests. Water the seedlings thoroughly every morning or as needed (moist, but not wet),
using a fine mist sprinkler to avoid soil splash and plant damage. If seedlings have been grown in shade,
harden them off by gradually exposing them to direct sunlight during the 4–5 days just prior to

11
transplanting. On the first day, expose them to 3–4 hours of direct sunlight. Increase the duration until
they receive full sun on the fourth day. Seedlings are ready for transplanting about three weeks after
sowing or when transplants have five to six leaves. Line-sown and broadcasted plantings

Option 3. Using stem cuttings

Stem cuttings from an existing kangkong crop can also be used for planting when seeds are not available
or insufficient. This method is commonly used when planting the broadleaf, lowland type of kangkong

Stem cuttings 15–25 cm in length with three to four internodes are normally saved during the first harvest
and soaked in water overnight before transplanting. In some cases stem cuttings are soaked in water for
1–3 days to develop roots before transplanting in the field.

Dig holes 5–10 cm deep and plant two to three stem cuttings per hole. Spacing between rows is 20–30
cm and plants within rows are spaced 15–20 cm apart. Irrigate immediately after planting.

Fertilizing
Kangkong can thrive under conditions of moderate soil fertility, yet is quite responsive to nitrogen
fertilizer. It also responds to application of organic manure. A combination of inorganic and organic
fertilizers improves yield and maintains soil fertility.Setting plants into the field. Recommended

For once-over harvesting, AVRDC uses raised beds that are 20 cm high with bed tops 90 cm wide. Rows
are spaced 10 cm apart with 15 cm between plants within rows (Fig. 6). For multiple-harvesting, rows are
spaced 20 cm apart with 30 cm between plants within rows.
Transplant in the late afternoon or on a cloudy day to minimize transplant shock. Place transplants in
holes that are 10 cm deep, cover the roots with soil, and lightly firm. Irrigate immediately after
transplanting to establish good root-to-soil contact. Transplanting can be done manually or by machine.

The amount of fertilizer to apply depends on soil fertility, soil type, fertilizer recovery rate, and soil organic
matter. A soil test is highly recommended to determine the available N, P, and K. The amount of applied
fertilizer can then be calculated based on your target yield and adjusted for residual nutrients. Fertilizer
recommendations for kangkong at AVRDC are shown in Table 1. Fertilizer recommendations depend on
local conditions, so consult your local fertility management specialist.

As much as possible, control weeds.

Kangkong is ready for harvest in 30–45 days after sowing or transplanting depending on variety and plant
type. Plants may be harvested once or several times. For once-over harvesting, plants are uprooted (Fig.
10). For multiple harvesting, stems or shoots 15–25 cm in length are cut close to the ground, gerally on a
weekly basis. Frequent harvesting delays flowering and stimulates growth of side shoots. When plants
are not harvested, side shoots develop into longer vines.

The harvest is washed and tied in bundles Leafy vegetables like kangkong have large surface-to-volume
ratio and lose water easily. To reduce excessive water loss, harvest during the cooler time of day, such
as early morning or late afternoon. Keep the harvested produce in a cool shaded place.

Mulching is recommended in upland plantings to reduce weed competition, soil compaction and erosion,
as well as to conserve soil moisture. Be sure the organic mulching materials are free of weed seeds.
Organic mulches can be laid down before or after transplanting and after sowing.Apply a layer of mulch
above ground level. Mulching is easier to apply if the kangkong is transplanted, but can be used for row-
seeded crops after the seedlings reach a height of 10–15 cm.

12
 BUNCHING ONIONS
Bunching onions, sometimes called green onions, are
frequently used in salads for their light, tangy flavor.
Bunching onions are actually an immature version of a
normal onion, picked before it has a chance to grow to
full size. Unlike scallions, bunching onions have a slight
bulb at the end. The plant doesn't require a lot of room
to grow, so it's possible to cultivate bunching onions
indoors.

Fill two pots with planting compost or soil. Choose

neutral pH or slightly acidic soil. Make sure the pots are
at least 6 inches deep and around 8 inches wide, with
large drainage holes in the bottom.

Push holes 1/3 inch deep into the soil with your finger.
Space the holes approximately 1/2 inch apart. Insert a
seed into each hole in one of the pots and cover with a
light sprinkling of soil. Leave the other pot as it is for
now.

Water the pot containing seeds using a spray mister.

Keep the soil damp over the next two weeks.

Plant germinated seeds in the second pot the same way

as you planted the seeds. The seeds should germinate
around ten days after planting.

Harvest your bunching onions four to six weeks after shoots first appear, or when they are around 10
inches tall.

“To plant a garden is to believe in the future”

The Urban Gardener is an official electronic publication (in PDF Format) of the Plant
Biotechnology Project, Research & Development Center, Rizal Technological University, Boni
Avenue, Mandaluyong City, Philippines. It is published monthly. For more information, please
inquire thru email: rdc_rtu@yahoo.com or plantbiotech_rtu@yahoo.com and landline (+632)
534-8267 Local 135 or Fax (+632) 534-9710.

Edited by N.R. Bautista © September 2010

The Plant Biotechnology Project Committee is composed of: Alexander B. Quilang,

Norberto R. Bautista, & Jovita A. Anit.

13