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SPRING/SUMMER 2018

ISSUE 1
ALTERNATIVE & CONSCIOUS CULTURE
ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

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SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

ALTERNATIVE & CONSCIOUS CULTURE

CONTRIBUTORS

Editor-in-Chief MORGANE NYFELER


@morgane_ny

Art Director LAURA FERMIN


@lfermin

Photographer MARISOL MENDEZ CABRERA


@marisol__mendez

Lifestyle MARGOT GUILBERT


Contributor @thepastelproject_com

Beauty MARGAUX ZANETTI


Contributor @margaux.zanetti

Sub-Editing HAILEY MANNING


@allhails

INÊS STETTLER
@inesstettler

SAMARA BOUCHEY
@samarabouchey

BACK COVER:
Piñatex textile, Courtesy of ANANAS ANAM

FRONT COVER:
Model: HEIDI CALS
Makeup & Hair: LAUREN BARKER
Thanks to Caitlin Traynor and Antoine Cotton for their constant support. Courtesy of ANANAS MAGAZINE

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SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

EDITOR’S
LETTER
Someone once told me not to Soon enough, you will get inspired by designers,
entrepreneurs, artists that are changing their
take myself too seriously. respective industry to meet a common goal: take
care of the planet. They all do this by taking chances
I always had the habit to separate my work from and letting their imagination speak. Christopher
my free time and hobbies, where I could have Raeburn (p. 16) shows us how to create bespoke
fun and really be myself. But there’s no harm in garments by upcycling discarded material. Or
putting a bit of spice and fun in whatever you read about four young designers (p. 40) that are
undertake. At the end of the day, you realise that recycling what they could find in front of them
your problems were not that bad after all if you to fight against the frenetic cycle of fast fashion.
just take a step back and start looking at them On page 78, we also asked people like you and
from another angle. me about one special item that they keep close
to their heart and will cherish for many years to
Sustainability in fashion has always been a term come. There are plenty of fun and amazing ways
that people were afraid of, as if the world was to become a more conscious citizen that you
about to collapse or they would get attacked in wouldn’t have thought of before.
the streets by a PETA activist. I certainly don’t
want to give you a lesson on how the fashion Now think about your daily life and what you
industry is the second most polluting industry in like doing for fun. Getting wild at a party (p.64),
the world or that less than two percent of women attending a special gig (p.52), travelling to an
workers are getting a living wage in Bangladesh. unknown city (p.58) or sipping a cocktail or two
Knowing that might not affect you to shop more in your favourite hangout (p.63). You will discover
consciously and stop your friends from buying a alternatives and take the route less travelled by,
three pounds’ tee from Primark. that will make you want to say, “I was there!”.

What if we started looking at ethical fashion as a Being sustainable is also being different, finding
fun and exciting new way to engage with fashion? exciting possibilities away from the mainstream
What if we stopped being passive consumers and to make you proud and make you stand up for
started celebrating the planet and the people in what you believe in. In Ananas, we give hope for
every purchase – or non purchase – we make? a better future. This starts by each one of us and
the choices we make in our daily lives. But never
There are simple habits you can pick up, such as forget to keep that sparkle in your eyes and that
digging old treasures into small vintage shops smile on your face in whatever things you do. As
(p.14), repair your ripped jeans (p.86) or give Chaplin once said,
your unused clothes to someone in need (p.82).
You will already have helped the environment by
not throwing away after one season and avoiding “A day without laughter
buying the new hot item on Instagram.
is a day wasted.”
MORGANE NYFELER
Editor-in-Chief

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ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

51 CULTURE KICK
11 Manifesto

13 Eco Objects
52 Music: Little Tokyo Recordings
74 THE FUTURE OF FASHION
14 Vintage Stores
54 Art & Design

56 Natural Beauty

78 Cherish your Clothes


FLYING HIGH WITH:
16 CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN
58 Green City Guide

82 How to Give Clothes to Charity


60 Food: Grow Up

22 Deconstructing an IT-Piece

62 DIY 84 FUR: FRIEND OR FAUX?

24 OUT OF NATURE

63 Nine Lives Cocktail Recipe


86 Make, Do and Mend

36 In Conversation with:
Orsola de Castro, Founder of Fashion
Revolution 64 OUT OF TIME

40 GEN-Y: Young Fashion Designers


Changing The Industry

8 9
MANI- SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

ANANAS

MANI
IS NOT MEANT TO
MANIPULATE, PERSUADE OR DICTATE YOU

IT HAS THE MISSION TO


INSPIRE ACTION,
MANI
BROADEN HORIZONS,
CHANGE THE MINDSET

SUSTAINABILITY IS NOT BORING


IT IS INNOVATIVE, CREATIVE & IMAGINATIVE
MANI
WE ARE NOT TRYING TO SAVE THE WORLD
BUT PROVIDE ALTERNATIVES
AND BE ATTENTIVE
FESTO
TO THE PEOPLE AND THE ENVIRONMENT

WE PRESENT CHANGE-MAKERS
SO THAT YOU CAN ALSO BECOME
FESTO
AGENTS OF CHANGE

SUSTAINABLE FASHION IS THE FUTURE


AND THE FUTURE STARTS
FESTO
NOW!

11
ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

ECO OBJECTS

WOMEN-FRIENDLY LINGERIE
NU Bra and Brief set, £95

ELLISS is an underwear brand selling cool and quirky bras,


briefs and bodies – these two showing distorted prints in grey
tones – to wear in the warmth of your home or under cosy
jumpers. Launched in 2016, the brand is also enlivened by
a desire to create clothing using conscious design methods
and minimal waste. The designer Elliss Solomon makes sure
the fibres she uses are as kind to your skin as to the earth
and the creatures that live on it. Beautifully luxurious, each
MAT(T)ERIAL & NATURE
collection is an exploration of femininity to make women feel
July Black Backpack, £120
comfortable and sassy at the same time.

Can a non-leather bag be just as authentic and


WWW.ELLISS.CO.UK
soft as its animal-based counterpart? This is
the challenge undertaken by Canadian brand
FROM THE SEA, FOR THE SEA
Matt & Nat. As a contraction of material and
Red Baywatch Crop Bikini, £90
nature, the brand was inspired by its beautiful
milieu in Montreal. This resulted in collections
Auria’s swimwear is produced by putting the ocean’s sake
of stylish and timeless bags and shoes, that
at heart, while also keeping a fresh, fun and contemporary
are good for the planet and harm no animal
design. What makes it even more special is that most of the
in the process. Their vegan fabric is also an
piece are handmade in England with ECONYL®, a new
exploration of innovative possibilities to recycle
generation fibre recycling discarded fishing nets, old carpets
all sorts of material, such as nylon, rubber,
and Nylon waste. Pretty surprising when looking at how
cork or even bicycle tires, producing the best
these rough materials are turned into feminine and colourful
quality of non-leather goods. You will hardly
bikinis. Auria also partnered with tech company Sony for a
believe your eyes.
special collaboration to recycle their H.ear headphone wires
to create a capsule travel collection. Celebrate the ocean for
WWW.MATTANDNAT.COM
your next summer holidays!

WWW.AURIA-LONDON.COM

SHINE BRIGHT LIKE A STAR


Stardust Rose Gold Chandelier Earrings, £385

Stardust is the new collection of 18carat eco gold fine jewellery by London-based brand Lily Flo. Inspired by
falling stars from heaven forms, Stardust presents layering necklaces, chandelier earrings and stacking bracelets
made by cutting and hammering tiny discs of solid gold onto delicate chains. Thin and elegant, the pieces are
all handcrafted in London with 100 per cent recycled gold, totally free from human and environmental harms,
but still strong and beautiful as a shower of glittering stars.

WWW.LILYFLOJEWELLERY.COM

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ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

VINTAGE STORES
WHO DOESN’T LIKE THRIFT SHOPS? THEY’RE THE BEST WHEN IT COMES TO AFFORDABLE SHOPPING.
LOOKING FOR A LEATHER JACKET OR A PAIR OF SUEDE OVER-KNEE BOOTS THAT WON’T BREAK THE BANK?
IT JUST TAKES A LITTLE BIT OF COMMITMENT AND FREE TIME TO HUNT THE PERFECT ONE, BUT TRUST US,
IT WILL BE WORTH IT!

LONDON IS FILLED WITH AMAZING VINTAGE STORES THAT CAN EASILY MAKE YOU LOSE YOUR HEAD. HERE
IS A GUIDE TO INDEPENDENT BOUTIQUES THAT KEEP THE REAL ATMOSPHERE AND DEDICATION OF A TRUE
VINTAGE STORE. YOU WILL THANK US LATER!

MRS
BEAR’S HOUSE
SWAP OF SEARCH &
SHOP VINTAGE DESTROY THREADS

Stop shopping and start swapping! When your Just off of Brick Lane, venture into this temple Don’t go too far; this small shop is situated two Located in Peckham, Threads is an independent
wardrobe gets cluttered with unwanted items, it’s of vintage to get your hands on something really footsteps away from House of Vintage and is a vintage clothing store selling authentic vintage
time for you to let them go. Swishing is a great idea unique. House of Vintage first opened its doors great spot if you’re after something a little bit menswear, womenswear and homewares from the
if you’re bored of your old clothes and accessories in Toronto and flew all the way to London to offer different. Women’s and men’s clothes are hand- 40’s through to the 70’s. They now also boast their
and want to freshen up your closet at little cost to exceptional vintage clothing and accessories picked around the world by the young couple own collections that are made-to-order, exactly to
you and the environment. Mrs Bear’s Swap Shop to the British capital. Since 2010, they stock a who owns the store. With a rockabilly vibe, the your size and requirements at no extra cost. The
is a pop-up shop where you can hand in up to beautifully edited collection of menswear and shop invites you on a journey to California, where owner Jemima offers a full and specialised vintage
seven good condition pieces and get the same womenswear, and specialise in garments from most of the pieces come from, and makes you alteration service to have your vintage treasures
amount in return. The events are held in various the 1940’s through to the 1960’s. The store is feel the sun even on a cold and rainy day. They lovingly repaired and altered. Plus she will soon
locations in London and Manchester, where you carefully curated so that you can easily find your have an amazing selection of jewellery, bags and give a personalised “Wardrobe Doctor” service in
can meet other fashion-conscious people and way on the two floors and quickly find the dress sunglasses as well. And hold on, they just opened your home and return the garments altered to the
have a nice time choosing your next favourite or jacket that will suit you best. They also offer a new store on the same street in case you came highest standard from her workroom. Thanks to
items. The organisers make sure all items are a selection of brands from Calvin Klein to Ralph out from the first one your hands empty. Search Thimble, the florist shop at the back of the boutique,
graded for fair swapping so that no one coming Lauren or Marni, but don’t hesitate to ask the & Destroy is the perfect place to get your new you can at the same time buy floral arrangements
with a Chloe skirt ends up with a Zara blouse. friendly staff who will help you dig out the rare gem. boho dress for your next weekend to Coachella. for your home or your loved ones. Everything can
Get ready to raid the rails! also be ordered directly from the online shop.

WWW.MRSBEARS.CO.UK 4 CHESHIRE STREET, E2 6EH 20 CHESHIRE STREET, E2 6EH 186 BELLENDEN ROAD, SE15 4BW
WWW.HOUSEOFVINTAGEUK.COM INSTAGRAM @SEACHANDDESTROYUK WWW.THREADSPECKHAM.COM

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ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

FLYING HIGH WITH

GIVE ANYTHING TO CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN AND HE WILL TURN IT


INTO A GARMENT. THE LITTLE BOY FROM KENT WHO LEARNED HOW TO
FLY WHEN HE WAS 11, HAS GROWN TO ESTABLISH HIS EPONYMOUS
BRAND AND STUDIO IN EAST LONDON. MADE IN BRITAIN WITH
SUSTAINABLE AND INTELLIGENT FASHION DESIGN, ALL OF RAEBURN’S
PIECES ARE HANDCRAFTED AND LUXURIOUS, YET CONTEMPORARY AND
FUNCTIONAL. HIS REMADE ETHOS IS AT THE FOREFRONT OF A VISION
THAT PROTECTS THE PLANET WITHOUT TAKING ANYTHING AWAY FROM
STYLE.

Photos courtesy of CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

WWW.CHRISTOPHERRAEBURN.CO.UK
@christopherraeburn

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ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

It was only mere moments after I stepped into Christopher Raeburn’s Each piece coming out from the studio is developed considering The moment I was looking forward to most was to delving into the
REMADE studio in Hackney that I found myself completely captivated. its impact on the environment, by working with local manufacturing, archives of the designer which I knew would be quite spectacular.
Not only is the space bright and airy, but situated on pavement level using organic or recycled materials and producing a limited amount Behind huge mirrored closet doors, is where most of Christopher
the studio invites passers-by to glance at the frenetic movement of garments. Sourcing sustainable materials around the world, Raeburn’s pieces, from his first REMADE jacket and graduate
of the sewing machines and the little hands that make the magic Raeburn makes sure to create unique pieces carrying their own collection, to his most recent design are stored. You will also find
to happen. specificities and history, which will then be explained on a tag sown a huge amount of recovered items waiting to be reworked into
inside the individually numbered garments. The whole ideas is to innovative and contemporary clothing. The fantastic wardrobe not
It was only in May 2016 that the brand relocated its design headquarters be as transparent as possible with the brand’s customers. only contains pieces of clothing, but also the first press coverage
from an old science lab in Bow to what was previously the Burberry of the brand in The Face or a feature in Vogue US in 2011. The
Textile factor – it has now been refurbished and converted into It was in 2011, that the adventurer won the “Emerging Designer” Vogue picture shot by Mario Testino, shows Blake Lively wearing a
residential and commercial accommodation. References to the British Fashion Award for menswear. He was also recognised for parka made from Eurostar uniforms, old Belgian army tank suits and
building’s industrial past are clearly exhibited by large bay windows the deep ethics animating his designs, leading the way for a fashion discarded hot-air balloons – making some pieces of that collection
and open floor plan that allows for the REMADE Atelier, Archive blending luxury with integrity and sustainability with functionality. completely sell out. A carefully curated bric-a-brac of fashion show
and Showroom to coexist and collaborate. invitations in the shape of a model aircraft, goodies showing the
I visit a sunny afternoon in August. Christopher Raeburn, 34, was Since the first REMADE jacket in 2001 created from military materials animal mascot of the season, unused fabric, flyers and ribbons, are
there to welcome me with a firm handshake and friendly smile that from the 50s, Christopher Raeburn has gone a long way. He is all kept as treasures by the designer.
makes you instantly feel at home. The British fashion designer evolving constantly and now leading a team of 8 full time members
holds a unique and innovative approach to creating garments that from production to operations and even marketing, all gathered in the It is no secret, materials are Raeburn’s biggest inspiration and their
are made from upcycled materials, such as, old parachutes, rafts, creative studios in Hackney. It is there, that the designer introduced origins give the reworked products a meaning and a history. “Having
or military jackets that are turned into desirable and contemporary me to the people helping him to turn his label into an established a narrative and a story behind the clothing is really important – we
clothing. After graduating from London’s Royal College of Art in brand. Everything happens in-house, from receiving the material to put an emphasis on considering all of the choices when we’re putting
2006, Raeburn later launched his own label. With the label came deconstructing the original garment and reworking it into a finished a garment together and bringing that into an exciting story so that
the REMADE ethos – a philosophy integrating four R’s: Remade, product with a cool and ingenuous design. Although, years later our customers really have something special,” explains Raeburn.
Reduced, Recycled and Raeburn. Raeburn has established his brand, his curiosity has not dwindled. More experimental items such as Siberian sheepskin coats and
He still digs into markets and charity shops around the globe or will garments made from 1950s silk maps are all unique and interesting
“The idea of REMADE in England almost started with a happy spend hours on Ebay to lay hands on the most interesting pieces made-to-order pieces that have an exceptional quality and durability.
accident,” recalls the designer. “Already when I was at University, of clothing – it is never a linear process but the designer rather Working with the company Rapha, Raeburn created pieces made
I was really fascinated about this idea of archaeology, going out and works by instinct and experience. The brand looks to innovation from discarded parachutes, insisting on keeping the authenticity
finding original items and then making them into something new.” to keep fresh, such as, creating fabric made of ground up plastic of the material and explicitly showing the original techniques and
This fascination quickly defined what the brand now stands for: bottles, fitting perfectly into the recycle principle. textures in the new garment.

“Reworking surplus Partnerships with big companies have helped Raeburn become The designer also showed me the Disney Mickey backpack that he
a respected designer in the industry. Brands such as Victorinox, developed with ethically sourced leather – one of the partnerships
materials and products Eastpak, Clarks and Disney have trusted him to collaborate on that made sense to Raeburn when it comes to working with big
capsule collections and he is even working as the Artistic Director businesses. “These collaborations are super important to us as
into limited edition of the Swiss brand. a company, it really gives us the opportunity to bring what we’ve
learned over the years to much bigger companies,” says the designer,
pieces, proudly cut and
reconstructed in England.” “It’s a massive opportunity
to make a difference
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN’S archives

on a global scale.”

Photo Credit: XXXXXXXXXXX

18 19
Q&A
ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

As I continued to look around the studio, I also noticed the If you could turn back time, which period of history
varied range of off-cut animals – squirrels, orangutans, sharks or would you go to?
chameleon – decorating the space and meshing perfectly with
the theme of the collection. Again, this is created by upcycling the I’d travel 65 million years back to prehistoric times and get a glimpse
different fabrics used in the collections and as a way to deal with of what dinosaurs actually looked like in their own habitat. I’ve also
leftovers from the studio. admired the dinosaur’s gallery at the National History Museum and
think it would be fascinating!
In the middle of the room, I get a glimpse of the new SS18
collection called AEOLUS, as well as pictures of the looks from Do you have a favourite extreme sport/activity?
last show displayed on a board. The collection is a reflection on
different weather conditions, such as, desert wind and sun, while Growing up in the countryside in a small village in Kent, I love the
also embodying the spirit of adventure. Hues of orange, grey and outdoors and enjoy mountain biking and cycling wherever I can.
camouflage dominate the menswear and womenswear outfits that I’ve also done a fair bit of hiking around the country and recently
have been brought together. The REMADE ethos is emphasised completed the Capital Ring Walk; a 78 mile walk around London to
on most of the looks and appears as branding on the garments raise money for Cancer Research. Having worked with parachute
with long pieces of tape that are stitched across tulles, parachutes fabrics a lot, I’d naturally love to try a sky dive one day.
and outerwear pieces.
What do you do in your free time?
This season, Raeburn mainly collaborated with EXKITE to deconstruct
pre-flown kites and reconstruct them into ingenuous macs, anoraks I’ve recently moved into a new apartment in South London. The
and jersey, underpinned with authentic detailing and considered building is situated on a hill with a remarkable 360 view of London.
thinking. At the same time, the collection includes German wind My limited spare time is therefore spent working on the interior! I
ponchos made from cooling cotton, reimagined into lightweight also enjoy going to exhibitions. We’re so fortunate with the amount
contemporary parkas, or authentic 1940s battledress denim of museums, art galleries and local talents available here in London
jackets reworked to create a field jacket or an anorak. Tulle is that there is always something new to see.
also used throughout the collection due to its lightweight quality,
accentuating the notion of movement and wind. Every garment is What is the last place you visited or last adventure
then considered for its extreme performance and resistance in order you undertook?
to undertake any kind of adventure. The collection also extends to
innovative footwear in collaboration with Palladium, featuring shoes I travelled to New York a couple of weeks ago for a special project.
constructed with high quality sustainable materials, that can be I never get much spare time when I’m on the road but I always enjoy
transformed from sandals to waterproof boots. And this season, going to flea markets when in New York. I never leave empty-handed!
Raeburn introduces the jerboa, a hopping desert rodent, as new
mascot which is apparent across jersey and knitwear. Do you consider yourself an activist?

As my visit in the studio comes to a close, I am invited by Raeburn Yes, but our activism is showcased through our considered design
and his team to customise my own organic cotton t-shirt using and inclusivity and education rather than politics. It’s about making
woven patches made from recycled yarns. Time to get creative. I it real for people.
can choose from a wide range of animal mascots, past collection
imagery and lettering that are then heat pressed on the fabric. The What is your favourite item in the archives?
brand is truly committed to making the studio accessible to the
public. Although my visit offered unique insight into the brand, the Tough question! I have so many favourites. If I had to pick one, then
studio offers tours, off-cut animal workshops and free repairs of it would be the British Battledress Smock; my first-year menswear
any damaged clothes to the consumers. Beyond representing the university project back in 2001 constructed from original 1950s
REMADE vision, Raeburn’s studio is also a way for better brand British battledress jackets. It is lined with breathable bivouac
transparency and is a place to educate and inspire people to bags. I have fond memories of wearing it for ten years. The piece
consume less and take care of their garments. lives in our archives and is the initial concept that led to the brand
values and ethos.
The designer is a creative force and he shows each season that
anything can be done with unexpected recycled materials. By also What are you trying to teach people in your workshops?
constantly innovating and bringing sustainable intelligence into the
core of the brand, only the sky is the limit. Our workshops form part of our wider initiatives to open up the
REMADE studio, engage with our audience in a creative way and
SPRING/SUMMER ‘18 COLLECTION

give something back to the community. We want to teach people


how to sew, how to make their own cushions or tote bags, and
how to repair their clothes whether it be replacing a button or
stitching a rip.

20 21
ANANAS

AN IT PIECE: ASK TO KNOW MORE BEFORE YOU BUY!

BLACK ELYSE SHOES: the iconic wood platforms by Stella McCartney


created from non-leather, cruelty free materials.

Eco what?! Simply an


ECO ALTER NAPPA:

alternative to leather, MADE FROM POLYESTER


AND POLYURETHANE. IT ALSO HAS A COATING MADE WITH OVER 50%
VEGETABLE OIL WHICH IS A RENEWABLE NATURAL RESOURCE AND
COMES FROM NON-FOOD SOURCES. NO, IT’S NOT GOOD TO
EAT, BUT GOOD FOR YOUR
FEET!

60% SOLVENT-FREE POLYURETHANE


REDUCING THE CONSUMPTION OF
WATER AND ENERGY, WHILE ALSO
BEING SAFER TO WORK WITH.

40% POLYESTER MADE OUT OF RECYCLED


PLASTIC WATER BOTTLES WITH A
LOWER CARBON FOOTPRINT THAN
VIRGIN POLYESTER.

Replant the rubber! Oh my wood!


COMPLETELY BIO DEGRADABLE, THE WHITE THE PLATFORM COMES FROM A CERTIFIED
RUBBER SOLE IS MADE OF BIOPLASTIC SUSTAINABLE SOURCE THAT DOESN’T CONTRIBUTE
DERIVED FROM RENEWABLE RAW MATERIALS. TO THE DESTRUCTION OF THE PLANET’S FORESTS.

Stella McCartney is known for her commitment to environmental friendly materials used in all her products, and also
for banning the use of fur, leather or feathers in any of the garments and accessories she creates. A true achievement
in the luxury industry. Now the lifelong vegetarian takes a step forward by partnering with startups around the world to
bring the newest of technology and manufacturing skills to her collections. Microsilk, for example, is a material innovated
by Bolt Threads to mimic real silk created by spider in nature, that the British designer hopes to use for fashion. On
National Consignment Day, the designer also announced her partnership with The RealReal to encourage people to
resell Stella goods in order to extend their longevity.

22
OUT OF
NATURE
Makeup & Hair: LAUREN BARKER
Models: CHIZOBA EMMANUEL & HEIDI CALS
Art Direction & Styling: MORGANE NYFELER

Fashion is an exploration. We explore and celebrate


the wonders of nature. But also what can be taken
away and turned to our own advantage.

Nature, such as women, is uncontrollable, powerful


and follows its own rules. Become fearless, own
your style and colour your world to make it your
playground.
Heidi (RIGHT) is wearing a long skin-tight
dress from our favourite Scandi brand
Texture and patterns are the new black. From FILIPPA K, mixing quality with simplicity.
puffer cover-ups to light striped blouses, how to Chizoba (LEFT) proves that a good PJ
pull it off without falling out of fashion. shirt, this one by ANOTHER LABEL, can be
worn for any occasion – a fancy party or
to hang out in your backyard.
A sunny puffer jacket where you expect
it the least, this Earth Jacket by WEEKDAY
is here to keep you warm. Pumps are by
MARIMEKKO.

Everything is in the details! See those


big shoulders and highlighted pockets?
MARTINA SPETLOVA knows how to ethically
work with the highest quality leather to
produce luxurious and unique pieces.
MARIMEKKO is a design house that got
known for its prints and colours. This dress
is no exception. Combined with a bright
velvet turban, it’s a 70s revival!

Pink ain’t for little girls. A modern woman


knows how to give it a twist to look sexy
and strong. Top by WEEKDAY and leather
skirt by MARTINA SPETLOVA.
Red is a statement look. MARIANA JUNGMANN
makes it powerful, yet feminine with her
delicate lace made with recycled polyester
and laser cut techniques. Craftsmanship
brought to the 21st century.
Lines and structure are intensified by this
Soft and comfy, shearling is a classic MARIMEKKO striped dress that ends in a
when it comes to warm coats. This one hue of electric blue.
by Helsinki-based brand ONAR, is ethical
and ecological as well as handcrafted in
Finland and Greece.
Stripes are strong for Spring 2018. Add a touch
of gold and you’ll be Queen of the Jungle. Blouse
by JUST FEMALE, skirt by DES PETITS HAUTS and Faux fur is the new trend to keep you wrapped

tights by JONATHAN ASTON. up in the cold spring mornings. DES PETITS


HAUTS created this overcoat in a beautiful
bright colour and delicate material. Margot
Tenenbaum better watch out!
ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

ORSOLA
IN CONVERSATION WITH

ARE YOU READY


FOR THE FASHION

DE REVOLUTION?
WWW.FASHIONREVOLUTION.ORG

CASTRO
On Facebook and Instagram @fash_rev

Where does Fashion Revolution stands today compared What do you think of the big companies creating eco
to when it first started? or conscious collections? Is there a demand for it?

We keep on growing every year which means there is a huge “Big brands won’t do anything
interest in this conversation. Every single company is talking about
it, consumers are at top level of awareness and I’ve never seen it unless there is a demand for it.”
as high as it is now. Our collective voice is so powerful. By asking
the simple question ‘Who made my clothes?’ to brands, we have How successful these collections are, I’m not so sure and it’s
ignited a global conversation about supply chain transparency, maybe better if there are not so profitable in many ways. There is
and started to inspire people to think differently about what they an overall demand for products that have sustainability and ethics
wear. As we’ve seen over the last few years, the more people who embedded in them whether it is the smaller or bigger brands. They
ask, the more brands will listen. Our questions, our voices, and our are responding to a need that the consumers are demanding. Some
shopping habits have the power to help change the industry for of the biggest high street brands are the most transparent and I
the better, and together we are stronger. wouldn’t confine fast fashion as being the only entity guilty of mass
production – the luxury sector is insanely guilty and is certainly not
How do you get brands involved into the campaign? slow. I haven’t seen any sustainable collections coming from Gucci,
Saint Laurent or Louis Vuitton, so I would rather have a high street
We encourage them, we make our voices and opinions heard, we brand doing a conscious collection rather than luxury brands not
study and analyse them, we scrutinise them but we don’t work with doing it at all. I agree that it doesn’t solve the problem very much
them as other organisations do. Fashion Revolution is really about but it’s not pejorative either. I see it as an interim solution, an ‘in
connecting brands, consumers and governments. We campaign between’ when finally, all collections will contain some of the
for change in transparency and living wage so that brands start alternative materials or principles behind what these eco collections
paying all their workers more fairly, we campaign for less pollution are claiming to have.
and a slowing down of the industry.
Words such as ‘sustainable fashion’ have been overused
to the point that it has almost become a trend and is
confusing the consumers. I’ve read that you’re not keen
FASHION REVOLUTION IS A GLOBAL MOVEMENT. IT’S A CELEBRATION on the term either?
OF FASHION AND OF THE PEOPLE AROUND THE WORLD THAT MAKE THE
FASHION INDUSTRY WORK. THE MOVEMENT RALLIES PROTESTERS It is used in a very inconclusive way and there is no such thing
WHO WANT TO MAKE A POSITIVE CHANGE TOWARDS A MORE ETHICAL as sustainable fashion. There are collections that are made with
Photo courtesy of FASHION REVOLUTION

AND SUSTAINABLE FUTURE. IT STARTED WITH THE FASHION REVOLUTION alternative materials, collections that are recycled, brands that are
WEEK AND THE #WHOMADEMYCLOTHES CAMPAIGN IN APRIL 2013 transparent. It’s about the way that we use it – just as we have
AFTER THE RANA PLAZA FACTORY COLLAPSE. SINCE THEN, 2 MILLION womenswear, menswear, sportswear, eveningwear, casual, high end.
PEOPLE HAVE JOINED THE REVOLUTION, ENCOURAGING BRANDS AND It’s about describing each bit with whatever techniques they use
PRODUCERS TO RESPOND AND SHOW THE REAL PEOPLE BEHIND OUR and not lumping the whole movement on to one single description.
CLOTHES. AS FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, ORSOLA DE CASTRO It doesn’t make sense! You can talk about sustainability in fashion,
TALKS TO US ABOUT WHAT IT TAKES TO BE AN ACTIVIST AND HOW WE ethics in fashion but sustainable or ethical fashion is misleading. It
CAN ALL TRANSFORM THE INDUSTRY TOGETHER. shouldn’t be at all differentiated from fashion as a whole.

36 37
ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

“A good job is never done in


many ways, there is always
room for improvement.

What kind of advice would you give to readers that You’re talking about academia so, in the perspective You won the H&M Conscious Award in 2017, how do How do you see fashion in the future? Is there a way that
would like to shop more ethically? of designers, what is the role of education in the way you feel as a role model? all fashion brands will ever become more sustainable?
they approach sustainability in fashion?
The point is that we need to stop shopping in order to be really It took me about two and a half months to decide to accept It’s going to take a very long time and I don’t really know if it’s
sustainable. It’s the attitude that needs to change. The first thing is It’s not only about education but it’s a whole. You can educate it. It was a really difficult decision that I did with the trust and ever going to happen or if there is going to be that drive. Is capitalism
to wake up in the morning, look at your wardrobe and ask yourself: designers but if you put them into the industry and the sourcing encouragement of my team at Fashion Revolution. It’s very important suddenly going to go away, are we going to be looking at growth in
“Do I actually need to shop?” The best way to be sustainable is isn’t there, then what good would have been done by educating to say that this award was given to me as a reward for a lifetime a completely different way, are we going to look at redistribution?
to care for the clothes that you’ve already got, to make them last them? You can change the sourcing system or you can create the career and not for Fashion Revolution – I wouldn’t have taken it These are huge questions that affect humanity and the ultimate
for a long time and treat them well. That’s the first real step that alternative materials but if the designers don’t know about them, if it was. I was involved with H&M as much as I was involved with goodness is unachievable. What we will see is a radical change
applies to any kind of shopping. If you are shopping with a clear it would have done no good to improve and innovate. It’s really a Topshop in my designer capacities. I’ve collaborated with them towards a need to make things more sustainable and therefore,
idea and a clear intent of buying something that you need, love very holistic change that needs to happen and it cannot be driven when it came to their upcycling initiatives and I’ve encouraged sustainable practices will be included and embedded, I hope, in the
and will cherish, then it’s an irrespective way of shopping. It’s your by one section above another. It needs to be a consorted effort and them a lot in their teaching at London College of Fashion on several majority of brands but not in 100 per cent ways. There will always
further actions that determine the longevity of the things that you it needs to affect the whole industry, from education to legislation. projects. I find H&M one of the few retailers that do listen – they be brands that are more socially or environmentally inclined, brands
buy so you can determine how sustainable a product is when you are one of the biggest corporates and the biggest innovators at that innovate in terms of materials that they choose or brands that
buy by knowing that you will care for it. It’s just as unsustainable You have been doing a lot in the field as a designer the same time. It was controversial for me to accept this award will choose radical transparency to create. But I doubt that there
to buy a pair of organic jeans if you’re going to wear them twice, first and then curator and art director; I’m thinking but I felt that it gave me an opportunity to reach an audience that will be many of the mainstream brands that will go sustainable in
so better buy non organic and wear them all your life. It’s not really about Esthetica and Fashion Revolution. Do you have I don’t normally seek. I’m not a very celebrity type of person, so a short space of time. What we will see is a birth of alternatives
about the product, but about the attitude. more projects to encourage brands and raise awareness? suddenly to be plunged along the Emma Watson, Beth Ditto or so that the fashion industry will not be only the big brands. There
Where does the UK stands in this regard? Blondie was quite surprising. It was a really different audience for will be a biodiversity so that the big brands will live along the small
Do you think people are ready to change this attitude, me and not one that I would normally address. And many of them brands, the smaller brands will be many more, and there won’t be a
especially with the abundance of high street brands The UK has led this movement for sure. There was this magical have since become revolutionary and show their support so in that hegemony of enormous brands. That will give space for brands that
encouraging to always buy more? moment when a group of people got together and things changed. respect, it was important. are 100 per cent sustainable and ethical, but they will be smaller
For me, having been within this group of people and having been and it’s not going to take just a couple of years. We’ve already
If you love fashion and are interested in fashion, it goes without given the trust to be heard and to speak about the subject has done the little steps and now they are getting a bit bigger.
saying that you will find the right brands for you. If you’re passionate been a privilege. My formation started as a designer and then
about it and are informed, you will know where to find the best as a curator so I travelled along this journey in several capacities
sustainable brands for you. But the only way to buy better is to and I don’t think I will ever stop. A good job is never done in many
make it last. We’re not really consuming right now, we’re using. ways, there is always room for improvement. Fashion Revolution
The word consuming means ‘to wear out’ and at the moment we’re is now present in over 100 countries and I have to say that some
only borrowing clothes for a short time and then dumping them. countries are way more behind than others but I think London is
We need to understand the longevity in the clothes we buy. Of potentially the most advanced place, certainly in terms of thinking
course, if we’re buying clothes that are made with cheap materials about sustainability. We have very little production in the UK so it’s
“Who made my clothes” in San Francisco, 2016, Photography by BRYAN BERRY

then maybe we should investigate better materials. But generally hard for us to lead in terms of manufacturing, but we can certainly “The only way to buy better is
speaking, I have seen the people that want to make this shift and lead in the thinking and innovating. Fashion Revolution has really
are actively looking for alternatives. taken over my life and I don’t produce clothes anymore but I’m to make it last. We’re not really
much happier selling ideas than I am selling a product. I devote the
So you think that the change has to come from the other big slice of my life to teaching and I’m very glad that I teach consuming right now, we’re using.”
consumers first? at Central Saint Martins to inspire students. Fashion Revolution is
in the midst of doing so many other projects so you will see much
No, absolutely not. You cannot just take one section of the society more springing up in there.
and demand that they would change for something that affects
absolutely everybody else. It’s totally unfair to expect the consumer
to be the driver of the change. This is a change that needs to
happen simultaneously from the consumers, from brands, from the
governments, from academia… it’s such a huge issue that we’re
dealing with that it’s the entirety of society that needs to approach
better ways of consuming.

38 39
GEN-Y
Millennials rule the world. Aged between 20 and 35, individuals from all industries
have taken over the internet and started a revolution on social media. And the fashion
world hasn’t been spared from this roar of frustration against a system dominated by
luxury and high street brands. Up-and-coming designers are asking for independence
and are taking a step away from the frenetic cycle of fast fashion. They want their
voice to be heard so that the industry starts slowing down and reflects on its own
damage on the planet and the people living across all corners.

Meet four young designers that are making a difference and believe that we can
change the industry for the better. By using what could be found around them, they
have built a collection that is well-made, creative and bold, while also respecting the
environment and paying homage to the techniques they have learned. Now freshly
graduated, they enter the real world knowing that everything is possible if you just
believe in yourself.

Alice, 22, has just completed her degree in knitwear design at the Winchester
School of Art and is committed to change the stereotype of sustainable fashion by
creating colourful and fun outfits with recycled textiles and up-cycled yarns. Hannah,
21, graduated from the same program but her approach to fashion and denim has
proven to be luxurious and forward-thinking to produce clothing that women will
treasure for many years to come. Daniela, 33, on the other hand, has a much more
experimental attitude when it comes to creating garments. Based in Denmark, she
handcrafted materials found in her masters and used discarded elements to give
her garments particular aspects and shapes. And finally, Natalie, 24, is a footwear
designer who built on her mother land, Isle of Wight, to create a shoe collection
mixing style and ecological awareness. She did that by recycling fishing nets and
integrating them into a beautiful design.
ANANAS
ALICE
YOUNG DESIGNER SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

“Give it to me! I’ll make


something out of it,”

Exclaims Alice Bracken, a graduate designer who recognises the


incredible potential behind the amount of waste created by the fashion
industry. Using knitwear as a way to harness recycled materials, the
young designer’s purpose is to make this traditional technique more
appealing to young generations by creating colourful and creative
garments that don’t even seem knitted at first glance. “Knitwear is so
interesting because you are starting with nothing – from the fibre up
to making the actual fabric and then transforming it into a garment –
and have control over everything!” she says about her particular path

ALICE to learning fashion design at Winchester School of Art from which she
graduated in June 2017.

BRACKEN
Alice’s final collection is based on the juxtaposition of urban and natural
environments, especially through the lens of abstract compositions in
the photography of Michael Wolf and Paul Bulteel. She then translated
these ideas into knitwear by creating technical geometric shapes
and chunky textures, as well as weaving in recycled material. This is
when she looked at integrating waste back into her project, by using
discarded plastic bags for example. “I had to work with what was there,
which is sometimes very unexpected, and the result is quite random.
But it pushes you to be more creative and open to changing your ideas.”

However, her work manages to turn environmental issues into


colourful and energetic knitted garments, changing the stereotype
of knitwear as being a hobby made for grannies. “People have
memories with knitwear and hold on more to their garments
especially knowing how time consuming it is to knit by hand,” she
says, talking about a dress that took her almost two weeks to create
using detailed hand manipulation techniques.

Her plans for the future are working for a slow fashion company
in order to perpetuate these concepts of value and memory in the
Inspiration images, sketches and look book photos | Courtesy of ALICE BRACKEN

garments she makes. But also slowing down consumption to make


people buy one of a kind garments that they will cherish and keep
for a long time.

42 43
ANANAS
HANNAH
YOUNG DESIGNER SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

Denim is an important part of Hannah Brabon’s work, as a fabric


rooted in history and its different subcultures. It is also a textile
that everyone can relate to. From ancient Japanese Boro textiles to
present casual wear, the designer is fascinated by the stories behind
the clothing that people wear. She is just as much concerned by the
detrimental impacts of the textile industry on the environment, and
more particularly on the water polluted by dye and ink waste. This
informed the basis of her research at the Winchester School of Art,
leading her to set out a luxury women’s knitwear collection using

HANNAH recycled denims in combination with other high quality materials


to create intricately technical outfits that are special and unique.

BRABON
“My collection is aimed at young women who want to invest in high
quality clothing that they will continue to wear for many years to
come. I imagined the lifestyle of a woman who wants to buy less,
where she would go and what she would do,” explains Hannah who
also aims to empower women through her oversized garments.

Not only was the young designer inspired by feminist photographers


like Hellen Van Meene and activist groups like Gorilla Girlz, but
she was also motivated by her own photographs of landscapes
she took while travelling. All this informed her choices of yarns
and colour palettes. Hues of blue in the water led her to try out
different manipulation techniques for denim – such as bleaching
or dyeing the fabric. Dramatic sunsets made her combine pinks
in an ironic way, as in feminism photography, to the point that her
professor described it as

“Beautiful in an ugly way.”


In addition, Hannah looked at the diversity of women in the photographs
Inspiration images, sketches and look book photos | Courtesy of HANNAH BRABON

and their different hairstyles. Shapes, textures and plasticity of


the hair were then implemented into her fabric development and
manipulation techniques, as heat pressing with plastic, creating a
waterproof effect and preserving the fabric within. This also relates
to the idea of polluted water and preservation of the landscape,
resulting in garments that are luxurious and slow-made.

“I want to promote the concept of slow fashion and aim to have a


low impact on the environment, by consciously using high quality
and sustainable materials.” Hannah acknowledges that the creation
of her outfits are time consuming and require many technical knit
techniques, which use a wide range of machinery in order to add
a further sense of depth and dimension to her fabrics. She hopes
this will also make women take greater care of their clothing and
hold on to them longer.

44 45
ANANAS
DANIELA
YOUNG DESIGNER SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

As a fashion designer, it is paradoxical that Daniela Hermann is mostly


interested in taking off garments rather than dressing up women. However,
by exploring the process of undressing and the different fabrics that
could imitate the skin, her playful and experimental approach to fashion
led to her MA collection at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts.

“I want to show what it is


underneath the clothes
DANIELA and let the dresser reveal
her skin and personality,”
HERMANN she explains. Next to showing how the body is revealed when clothes
unfasten and fall off, Daniela decided to use materials such as silicone
or latex, that she could make herself and be in control of their creation,
from a liquid to an actual fabric. The latex can then be made into a
garment, in which its appearance can range from sheer to opaque, to
induce the impression of skin-like surfaces.

The second part of her research lies in bringing a contrast to the latex
with knitwear garments made of copper wire. “I collected leftover copper
wire from my father’s factory – he’s an electrician – and used it as a
yarn mixed with mohair to knit the clothes,” says Daniela who gave a
new sense and functionality to this discarded material by reworking and
upcycling it. The cold and shiny texture of the copper wire is balanced
with soft and hairy fabric but still leaves the skin visible underneath.

Every piece then looks as if they were half way of falling down and
slipping away from the body. For instance, upside down pockets at the
Inspiration images, sketches and look book photos | Courtesy of DANIELA HERMANN

bottom of a skirt where the ankles stand give this impression, but also
translates a dual function to enhance the wearability of the collection.
“Depending on how you button or unbutton the garments, you can
change the silhouette and give different functions and looks to an item,”
explains Daniela. The skirt can then be turned into a shirt or a coat can
be rebuttoned and turned into a handbag. In that way, the longevity of
the clothes is extended, making customers buy only one garment to
be used for many different functionalities.

Daniela is now seeking to take the collection further and continue to


experiment more with unusual materials to create exceptional surfaces
and fabrics.

46 47
ANANAS
NATALIE
YOUNG DESIGNER SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

Young footwear designer Natalie Hodgson never thought of creating shoes


that were recycled or eco-friendly until she helped her friend and designer
Bethany Williams with her own masters collection. “She was so excited
about recycling fabrics, and every single aspect of her collection, down
to the zips and buttons, was handmade or recycled,” says Natalie who
consequently got inspired to go down that route herself.

By growing up in a small fishing village on the Isle of Man, it was natural that

NATALIE she based the research of her bachelors collection titled ‘Fenella’ on what
was around her, and took inspiration from the coastline and its particular
aspects. She then realised that a lot of fishing materials had washed up on

HODGSON
the coast and decided to give a second life to the discarded fishing nets
to create innovative footwear. At the same time, her interest in preserving
the natural beauty of the world led her to produce a women’s collection
introducing an array of ethically sourced and recycled materials to reduce
waste and raise awareness to the issue.

“It’s so interesting to see


discarded rubbish made into
a fashion garment,”
but I just stumbled across the whole process by trying out beading
techniques,” explains Natalie by showing the tiny beads she made by
untangling fishnets into single threads and melting the material to create
little shiny blue balls. She kept the original colour of the net, reminiscent of
the ocean, to bring a bright aspect to the muted colour of the shoes. They
are all made of Fairtrade canvas twill to imitate the heavy utility wear of
fishermen and bring contrast to the delicate feminine style. “Every aspect
Inspiration images, sketches and look book photos | Courtesy of NATALIE HODGSON

of the shoes comes from the coastline so I really felt at home with it,” says
Natalie who also wanted to keep a minimal aesthetic and basic shapes to
accentuate the design features of the fishing nets.

Because the process is so time consuming and laborious, the collection


only comprises of three styles of shoes. One of them was made in
collaboration with fellow jewel design student, Elisha Easterbrook, who
melted milk and shampoo plastic bottles to sculpt a heel with a marble
effect imitating the waves of the sea. Because Natalie became sensitive to
the throwaway culture of today initiated by fast fashion, she would like to
work for a conscious brand pushing technology to take advantage of waste
material. “There’s a total disconnect from our generation who knows about
the issues of the industry but go shopping to Primark anyway!”

48 49
SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

CULTURE
MUSIC

TRAVEL

KICK
DESIGN
THIS IS A RICH MIX OF GREEN GOODIES. FROM

MUSIC NEWBIES TO NERDY CREATIVES, FROM

VEGAN BEAUTY TO PRETTY FOOD. READ ON TO


GET YOUR CULTURAL FIX.

BEAUTY

ART

FOOD

51
ANANAS CULTURE KICK SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

LITTLE THE RECORD LABEL AND EVENT PROMOTER FOUNDED IN 2014 BY SINGER NAO IS A GEM DIGGER
IN THE RNB, SOUL AND JAZZ MUSIC SCENE. BY FRUSTRATION OF NOT GETTING SIGNED, NAO
STARTED LITTLE TOKYO AS A WAY TO RELEASE HER MUSIC INDEPENDENTLY AND IS NOW
NATIVE DANCER
Listen to Native Dancer on Spotify and Soundcloud

TOKYO
USING THE PLATFORM TO HELP OTHER UNSIGNED ARTISTS GETTING THEIR MUSIC OUT THERE. Facebook: @nativedancerofficial
SHE IS LOOKING FOR THAT RAW TALENT – UNDISCOVERED MUSICIANS DEVELOPING OUTSIDE
OF THE MAINSTREAM – THAT WILL TAKE PEOPLE AWAY TO AN UNEXPLORED LAND OF BEATS
AND MELODIES. THESE ARTISTS MIGHT NOT BE ‘MAJOR LABEL MATERIAL’ BUT THEY HAVE A Born out of late night jam sessions and studio listening parties, Native Dancer is

PRESENTS... UNIQUE AUTHENTICITY AND THE POTENTIAL TO GROW FOLLOWING THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
BY. NAO HAND PICKS THE MUSIC RELEASED THROUGH THE LABEL HERSELF, AS WELL AS THE
ARTISTS PERFORMING AT THE ‘LITTLE TOKYO PRESENTS’ NIGHT – AN EVENT TO INTRODUCE
made up of five musicians that have been performing with some of the most creative
artists in the UK. Combining mellow vocals and jazzy rhythms, the band is a burst
of energy at the crossroads of urban music styles. Drawing from hip-hop, jazz, RnB
THE MUSICIANS SHE ADMIRES TO HER FANBASE, AND FOR HER AUDIENCE TO ENGAGE WITH and electronic pop, Native Dancer has created a blend of sounds that comes from
THEM IN A LIVE CONTEXT. WITH ALL DECISIONS COMING DIRECTLY FROM NAO, YOU CAN BE the heart. We talk to front woman Frida Touray about the current underground music
SURE THAT THE MUSIC COMING OUT OF LITTLE TOKYO RECORDINGS IS AS PURE AS GOLD. scene and the band’s future plans.

NARX
Listen to NARX on Spotify, Apple Music and Soundcloud
Facebook: @narxldn
You just played at the London Jazz Festival, how was I saw you perform at Little Tokyo Presents, how does it
the experience? feel to be spotted by NAO and her label?
As a producer, DJ and multi-instrumentalist from Ealing, NARX is no stranger to
London’s music scene and many young people would know him for his eclectic It was so much fun! We played The Albany in Deptford which is Amazing! We’ve been such big fans of NAO and what she’s been
mixes and tall figure. Before releasing his debut EP ‘Pink & Blu’, NARX was indeed an amazing space. It’s a community arts centre as well as a music doing for the last couple of years. Her writing is really beautiful and,
resident at Visions and had a show on NTS Radio. However, NARX isn’t any kind venue and they work with many incredible organisations to keep for the music scene, she’s a real breath of fresh air.
of DJ turned beatmaker, his education has been surrounded by music from playing south London a thriving blossoming community for all people. We
the trumpet at an early age and moving to piano, bass and programming. But it always love playing LJF and its great to see so many people come What is the response of the public in the UK compared
is DJing that made him attract the crowd’s interest. The same went for NAO who out and listen to all this music that is happening in London. to the US or Japan where you already performed? Do you
was captivated by his beats when meeting him at a hot party on-set. The clever mix feel like being part of an underground scene in London?
of synthesized tunes from his new EP is an ode to nightlife in a chill and mellow How does jazz influences your music amongst the other
atmosphere, allowing you to gently escape into an ecstatic state. genres you dip into? The response to the music has been incredibly positive from all
over the world. It’s been such a beautiful validation for what we’re
Jazz has always been a part of our writing – I would even say that doing. We’re trying to open up a space to allow people to feel and
jazz has been its foundation – and will always be a big part of our imagine a better world and a deeper connection to what they can’t
approach to live performance. We want a sense of fluidity and see, as well as trust their intuition. There is an amazing scene in

NAALA improvisation when we play our music. We try not to consciously


dip into all the different music we’re into. It’s more like just trying to
London and now is a particularly exciting time. I feel like people’s
ears are opening up and that’s part of a larger movement globally
Listen to Naala on Soundclound be open enough to let all our influences flow through us organically. that shows our consciousness is evolving as a specie. Issues on
Facebook: @thisisnaala gender, race, identity and our relationship to the earth have all
You seem like five very individual artists, how did you get reached a crisis point. It’s important right now for artists to create
to play together and what does each of your backgrounds a place to help people feel free and offer spiritual nourishment, so
Her melodic voice has the sensual tones and emotional depth that takes you instantly bring to the band? we can all imagine and create a better world together.
away. Naala, or from her real name Yvette, is the kind of black front-woman that knows
how to grab attention. She made her first big apparition at Little Tokyo Presents and Most of the guys met on the Jazz scene in London, while I met You already released two EPs, can we expect an album?
Photos courtesy of LITTLE TOKYO RECORDINGS

was recently supporting Hot Chip at a charity event. Her style is at the crossroads Sam at university where I was studying contemporary music. While What will it include?
between electronica and RnB with a rich background and layering of sounds, which growing up, we all have listened to a lot of hip-hop, and I grew
is most apparent in her latest single ‘Splintered Window’. But her music is more up on Blues, soul, RnB. We also developed our music alongside We’re currently trying to finish a bigger body of work. How that will
than beautiful melodies, it is also a journey through Ghanaian traditions and African many spoken word and poetry artists back in Sweden so that has come out remains to be decided but we’re really excited about the
storytelling that have influenced her growing up in London. Naala considers her definitely influenced the way we write. We all love music so much new music, and hopefully it won’t be too long until we can release
work a mean of sharing stories and life lessons as it is an exploration of sounds that and we really naturally bring all those things together when we write. some or all of it.
have been self recorded, processed and produced. ‘Splintered Window’ is a way
to bring all those pieces back together.

52 53
ANANAS CULTURE KICK SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

ART & SOLIDWOOL


Hembury Chair & Feist Forest Samara table

DESIGN
Have you ever thought wool could be turned into furniture? Herdwick sheep, the iconic breed
from the British Lake District, give a wiry, dark and hard fibre – the itchy scratchy type of wool
if you know what I mean. Mixed with bio-resin, the wool results in a strong and unique material
called Solidwool. The wool’s perceived value had dropped in recent years, leaving the shepherds
with way too much supply than they could sell. That’s the time when the start-up decided to
take this unwanted wool and make it beautiful again – giving it a second life with a collection of

RECYCLED FUTURE
03 design furniture with a clean aesthetic. As a renewable fibre source and sustainable alternative
to plastic, Soliwood is also a natural fibre with a story connecting people to the land.
WWW.SOLIDWOOL.COM

Oskar Krajewski’s ‘Recycled Future’ is a step into science fiction,


or maybe, our planet’s own future. This ‘neosculpture’ is made of
over 25’000 pieces such as watches, computer parts, toys and any CRYSTAL CLEAR AUDIO
kind of waste found in Krajewski’s apartment, but also his friends’ People People Small Transparent Speaker
own rubbish. The impressive artwork is almost like a living city as

Recycled Future, 90x90x60cm, 2016 / Photo courtesy of OSKAR KRAJEVSKI


it emits sounds, produces light and is constantly changing when For Scandinavian company People People, transparency is a functional quality as it is an aesthetic
more waste material is added. Krajewski was born in Poland and design thought. Forget the bulky and speakers, they have now become a highly designed object
moved to London in 2012 where he now runs a small studio and blending into your interior. Acoustics coming out of the speakers are so pure and so transparent,
collaborates with other artists, musicians and programmers. As a that you are able to see everything working while you listen. From each pulsation of bass to the
nature lover, his interest in recycling has grown bigger when seeing tinkelings of the drivers, sound will hold no more secrets for you. Not only are the speakers a
how much our society buys unnecessarily and gets bored of the timeless interior design object, but People People has also specifically created the product to

01 latest gadgets in the blink of an eye. ‘Recycled Future’ is a way to


give waste a second chance and use it to create a brilliant piece of
art. The sculpture is so complex that it took Krajewski three years to
have a low impact on the environment. Each part can be replaced manually at home, and the
used ones easily recycled. A holistic approach to living more consciously.
EU.TRANSPARENTSPEAKER.COM
04
complete, and for him to be able to show it to the public. His latest
HANNAH SCOTT exhibition at the Oxo tower also presented different sculptures, prints
and the artist’s own art collection, further illustrating his interest
Spending eighteen days on a sailing boat in the Arctic might not for futuristic technologies and urban structures. The main artwork WHITEPOD: WINTER GETAWAY
be everyone’s go-to holiday destination. It was, however, a dream was placed in a dark room that completely immersed the viewer
come true for British artist Hannah Scott, 41, when she overtook into a city inspired by Blade Runner or Star Wars. “I’m hoping to In the heart of the Swiss Alps, discover a unique experience where nature meets luxury. Who said
an artist residency last October. Her journey started with the inspire the new generation of artists, showing them ways to ‘free pods were made for camping freaks and tree huggers? Whitepod introduces the first luxury hotel
project ‘What goes around comes around’, an exploration of the paint’ what is available around us,” said Krajewski about his exhibit. with an ecological mission proving that alpine tourism can have a low impact on nature. Energy

Hannah Scott and Strata from the project What Goes Around Comes Around, 2017 / Photography by VIC PHILLIPS
relationship between the consumer lifestyle of Britain and the “I’m hoping to see tomorrow’s cars, buildings and roads made and water use is controlled, waste is recycled, food is locally produced and everything in the
Arctic environment where plastic waste is washed up and trapped of yesterday’s waste and I’m hoping to see a new chapter in art village is accessible by walking distance. In winter as in summer, simply sleep with breathtaking
in the ice caps. This theme overlapped her masters degree in Art history: ‘The Recyclism’!” views on the mountains, enjoy private and direct access to ski slopes or go for a walk in a quiet
and Science at Central Saint Martins where she presented ‘270 forest. Since last winter, three unique Pod Suites with exclusive atmospheres have opened to
Single Uses’ for the 2017 Degree Show – an installation of 270
plastic bottles collected from the streets. They were all filled with
water, then frozen and displayed onto the fountain jets of Granary
WWW.ARTOFOK.COM
05 make your experience even more luxurious. Swiss, Forest and 007 Suites comprise their own
unique design that will whisk you away and make the perfect romantic getaway.
WWW.WHITEPOD.COM
Square in front of the art school. Without being moralistic, Hannah
uses art to express scientific issues such as climate change, also
adding an emotional dimension to her work that people can relate
FASHIONED FROM NATURE
to. “I think that with all the pieces that I’ve made, there’s this
undercurrent theme of loss,” says Hannah. “There is very much of
Sustainable fashion is coming for the first time to the Victoria & Albert Museum! Nature has always
a personal relationship there, because it feels almost like grief. I
been a huge inspiration for fashion but does it means the industry cares about the planet? The
think our society tends to use objects as ways to express one’s
exhibition hosted by the V&A this coming Spring looks at the complex relationship between fashion
identity, that are then so quickly thrown away.” Through photography,
and nature since the 1600. It explores how the industry can become more sustainable by spotlighting
installations, films and paintings, the artist encourages each one of
designers such as Vivienne Westwood or Dries Van Noten. And it is not only about pretty flowers!
us to reassess the way we live at the moment, as well as consider
The exhibition showcases examples that combine beautiful design and ethical practices, inviting the
the impact our lifestyle choices can have on the environment. Plastic
visitors to think differently about fashion. Highlights include an impressive Auguste Champot cape, a

02
is everywhere – around the food we eat, into the water we drink
Vegea dress made from grape waste, and other antique treasures. Don’t miss Emma Watson’s 2016
and in the air we breathe – and what we dump into the ocean will
MET Ball dress by Calvin Klein for the Green Carpet Challenge made out of recycled plastic bottles!
find a way to eventually come back around.

FASHIONED FROM NATURE WILL RUN FROM APRIL 21, 2018 - NOVEMBER 27, 2018
AT THE VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON..
WWW.HANNAHSCOTT.COM

54 55
ANANAS CULTURE KICK SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

NATURAL WAKE FACE AND BODY MIST


by Vitruvi, 30ml, £26

BEAUTY
Vitruvi has a wide range of aromatherapy oils depending on which
1 state you want to get to: sleep, move, focus, etc. Their packaging
is very sturdy and they all come with a little card showing the
molecules that compose the product. I’m obsessed with their Wake
BY MARGAUX ZANETTI Face and Body Mist containing woodsy juniper and fresh citrus
bergamot. You can take it with you anywhere and it will become a
Margaux is a lifestyle blogger based in Toronto, constant part of your morning routine. Plus it’s a Canadian brand!
Canada. She shares fashion, green beauty, and
local favourites through her blog and Instagram
feed. She switched to natural beauty three year
ago when she realised that most of the products
she was using had toxins in them.
SYNERGIE(4) FACE MASK
It can sometimes be confusing to know which by Odacité, 200ml, £52
brands to turn to, especially because natural 2
products can be more expensive. So which ones Odacité is a natural beauty brand that I keep on going back to.
are really worth it? Margaux sorts out for us the The new face mask is versatile so that you can customize it to
essentials she cannot live without. Maybe you your skin problem of the day. Since it works in 4 synergies, you
will also realise that you don’t need half of the can use ingredients from your pantry to boost different properties.
products you own! For example, use the Black Cumin + Cajeput Serum Concentrate
to help with acne, and the Peach + Cypress Serum Concentrate
@MARGAUX.ZANETTI for combination skin. It is on the pricier side, however, you can get
WWW.MARGAUXZANETTI.COM so much use out of it – each mask only needs 1.5 tsp of the clay.

TEA TREE AND PUMPKIN SEED NATURAL DEODORANT


by Way of Will, 75ml, approx. £17.50

3 What’s interesting about Way of Will is that it’s targeted toward


people living an active lifestyle, and also includes a range for men.
The brand uses aromatherapy for different types of moods, such
as focus, warm up, and refresh. This deodorant comes in a stick
and works like magic. It leaves you smelling fresh and helps with
redness and itching thanks to the pumpkin seed oil. It’s the best
natural deodorant I’ve tried to date. The product claims to use no
residue, synthetic oils, artificial colouring and is completely cruelty-free.

LEMONGRASS BODY CREAM


TIPS! 4 by Wildcraft Skincare, 120ml, approx. £13

And if you really want to know how toxic your Since switching to all natural skincare, I’ve become obsessed
beauty products really are, try out the Think Dirty with Canadian brand Wildcraft Skincare. This is a great brand for
app. By simply scanning any type of product, this every green beauty lover, but also for people who want to get into
app informs you about the harmful ingredients natural skincare without breaking the bank; their prices are super
in it. It then rates the product on a scale from reasonable. The body cream is ideal during the winter when your
0 to 10 according to its ingredients, 10 being legs get super dry. This cream is rich, but not too hard to rub into
the most toxic. Easy to decide which products the skin. It also smells like lemongrass, which makes you feel super
to throw away! fresh when you apply it in the morning.

56 57
ANANAS CULTURE KICK SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

GREEN
CITY
GUIDE
BY MARGOT GUILBERT

TO LISBON, PORTUGAL

Margot is a French girl and founder of The Pastel


Project, an online platform to discover fair fashion,
green beauty and eco-friendly lifestyle. Her mission
is to inspire people to build a more conscious
lifestyle through their consumer choices that
respect workers and the environment. All of that
without losing elegance.

Now based in Lisbon, Portugal, she gathered a


few sustainable addresses, brands and alternatives
for you to try out and shop while you’re visiting
the city. And don’t forget to check out her blog
for more tips and style advice!

WWW.THEPASTELPROJECT.COM

BUREL: FASHION AND HOME DECOR IN WOOL THE FOOD FOR REAL: HANDMADE AND NATURAL ECOOLTRA: SHARED ELECTRIC SCOOTERS ORGANII COSMETICS: ORGANIC SKINCARE NÄZ CLOTHES: FASHION HANDMADE IN PORTUGAL MARIA GRANEL: BULK GROCERY SHOP

From coats to boots, envelop folders to bags Try their tapioca wraps for lunch and vegan banana In a rush or want to avoid being stuck in traffic The beauty shop at LX Factory where you will find This is a young brand born in Lisbon. You can find Shop in bulk! Bring your own organic cotton
and blankets to stools, everything is handmade cake for desert! It’s a great place to have your in the hilly streets of Lisbon? Ride an eCooltra natural, organic and zero-waste cosmetics from the brand at the Organii concept store inside the bags or jars to avoid packaging and, in addition,
of wool – the local heritage from the Portugal healthy brunch fix as well. shared electric scooters. It’s a greener alternative make-up to skincare. They also offer personalised LX Factory next to other eco-driven brands for reduce your daily waste. Maria Granel makes it
mountains. to conventional gas/diesel vehicles. organic massage therapies. babies and the home. super easy for you!

WWW.BURELFACTORY.COM/EN/ WWW.THEFOODFORREAL.COM WWW.ECOOLTRA.COM WWW.ORGANII.COM WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/NAZ.CLOTHES WWW.MARIAGRANEL.COM

Rue Serpa Pinto, 15 B Rua dos Lusiadas, 51 A Everywhere around Lisbon Rua Rodrigues de Faria, 103 Rue Rodrigues de Faria, 103 Rua José Duro, 22

58 59
ANANAS CULTURE KICK SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

FOOD: Growing plants from fish poo.


PUT LIKE THAT, THE IDEA SOUNDS QUITE REPULSIVE. HOWEVER, GROWUP URBAN FARMS

GROW
CREATED AN AMAZING CLOSED LOOP SYSTEM IN AN EAST LONDON URBAN SPACE. BY
FIRST FEEDING AND FARMING THE FISH, THEY DEVELOP AN AQUACULTURE IN BIG TANKS
WHOSE WASTE-WATER RICH IN NUTRIENTS IS THEN PUMPED TO THE ROOTS OF THE
PLANTS – THEY GROW IN VERTICALLY STACKED LAYERS WITHOUT THE NEED OF SOIL! THE

UP HELPFUL NUTRIENTS FERTILISE THE PLANTS AND IN TURN, THEY PURIFY THE WATER WHO
IS THEN REDIRECTED INTO THE FISH TANKS.

WWW.GROWUP.ORG.UK
Low transport costs and CO2 emissions as the
food grows closer to consumers and markets.

The low water-use system is an environmentally


conscious way of growing food and suits an
agriculture in the city.
Vertical farming means creating more growing
space and producing crops all year round.

Photography by MANDY ZAMMIT

No use of chemical fertilisers or pesticides –


the only energy needed is for the pumps and
water heaters.

60 61
ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

DIY TO EASY NINE


GARDENING LIVES
BY A PAIR AND A SPARE 8 Holyrood Street
SE1 2EL London
WWW.NINELIVESBAR.COM
IT’S NOT ALWAYS A SMALL JOB TO TAKE CARE OF PLANTS IN YOUR APARTMENT. IT MIGHT
NOT BE AS TOUGH AS MAINTAINING A GARDEN, BUT REMEMBERING TO WATER YOUR PLANTS
WHEN YOU’RE AT WORK IS ANOTHER TASK ON YOUR ENDLESS TO-DO LIST. INVESTING IN
CACTI AND SUCCULENTS IS A GOOD WAY TO START, AS THEY REQUIRE LESS ATTENTION.

NOW, REPOTTING IS ANOTHER STORY. SOMETIMES, YOU JUST DON’T HAVE TIME FOR THAT,
RIGHT? HERE ARE THREE EASY WAYS TO RECYCLE SPARE ITEMS LYING AROUND YOUR
HOUSE TO ACCESSORISE THOSE UGLY, PLASTIC BROWN POTS. THESE IDEAS ALSO MAKE
GREAT GIFT WRAPS IF YOU PLAN ON GIVING PLANTS AS GIFTS!

NINE LIVES IS A ZERO-WASTE COCKTAIL HANGOUT WHERE TIKI VIBES INGREDIENTS


MEET A SUSTAINABLE ETHOS. NOTHING THERE HAS BEEN PLACED
RANDOMLY, FROM THE TROPICAL DECOR TO THE LOW LIGHTING AND 50ml Tanqueray No.TEN
LUSH AROMA, EVERY ELEMENT HAS BEEN THOUGHT OF TO GIVE YOU 15ml homemade Chamomile kombucha
AN ATMOSPHERIC JUNGLE FEELING. 10ml Noilly Prat Vermouth

THIS HIDDEN GEM IS IN FACT SITUATED IN A VICTORIAN BASEMENT Add all ingredients to a mixing glass & stir down
OFF OF BERMONDSEY STREET, BUT LOOKS MORE LIKE A GREEN until chilled & diluted.
AND LUXURIOUS SHACK WHERE NATURE IS AT THE FOREFRONT.
THE STRONG AESTHETIC IS BACKED UP BY A POSITIVE MANTRA Strain into a martini glass & garnish with a big
THAT MAKES THIS PLACE ONE OF A KIND. FROM THE VINTAGE AND fat lemon twist.
REPURPOSED FURNITURE TO THE CANDLES’ WAX AND BAMBOO
STRAWS, WASTE IS REDUCED TO ITS MINIMUM AND RECYCLING IS
THE WATCHWORD.
TEA TOWEL

DUST BAGS

BASKET

Fold a tea towel over a cardboard Linen or cotton dust bags Just place your plant into the
YET THE BEST STORIES REMAIN IN THE COCKTAILS’ INGREDIENTS.
the size of your pot. Wrap it are a thing when it comes to basket of your choice. Once
around the pot and secure with packaging. Handbags, shoes, again the pot base is key, so PUSH THE BACK DOOR AND YOU’LL FIND THE HERB GARDEN WHERE
a sewing pin from the inside. jewellery are all wrapped up don’t forget to display it into WASTE IS COMPOSTED TO NURTURE THE PLANTS. THE BARMAN ZIGGY
into these pieces of fabric. the bottom! IS ALSO WORKING ON A WAY TO USE THE FRUITS’ PITHS TO CREATE
Don’t let them catch dust in ESSENTIAL OILS FOR THE BAR’S LIQUEURS TO BE USED ALL YEAR
your cupboard but use them to
ROUND. THE COCKTAILS ARE UNIQUE, FRUITY AND DELICIOUS, ALL
dress up a cactus. Don’t forget
to put the pot base first that will LOVINGLY DESIGNED BY THE TEAM ON SITE.
retain the water and prevent it
from ruining the basket! TRY THE REFRESHING “OMU KOOLER” OR THE PUNCHY “LUTRA” WHILE
YOU’RE DANCING ON THE GROOVY SOUNDTRACK OF THE SATURDAY
PARTY NIGHT. IF YOU WANT TO KEEP IT CHILL, WE GIVE YOU THE
SECRETS TO THEIR FAMOUS “CAMBRE” DRINK TO CREATE AT HOME
AND IMPRESS YOUR FRIENDS.

62 63
OUT OF
TIME
Photography: MARISOL MENDEZ CABRERA
Art Direction: MORGANE NYFELER

IT’S A NEO-RAVE, BABE, JUMP IN THE SPACESHIP !

Enter Creatures, a secret party where you’ll be


blown away by the ecstatic techno beats and the
mysterious, alien settings. Inside a suburban forest
or under a hidden arch, a flow of true-hearted party
people come each month to find the mental and
spatial freedom to let their inner self – and outer
style – go wild.

These pop-up, alternative parties are like a time


capsule where the world stops turning for you
to feel the moment and connection to other
like-minded souls.

We open the doors of this urban jungle and give


you a cheeky insight, but for the full experience,
physical attendance is essential.
A special thanks to the two adventurers GEORGIO ONIANI & DEAN MARC.
ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

Imagine a world where a garment can easily be created on a


computer, printed from one single pattern and then fitted to the
body’s measurements. You won’t have to let your imagination
wander too far because this is called 3D printing. This technology
already exists and is used as a way to reduce fabric waste and
factory’s CO2 emissions. It also means a lower scale production As it stands now, the leather and meat industry is responsible
INNOVATION AND A PINCH OF CURIOSITY IS WHAT MAKES and a development on the concept of slow fashion. for 18 per cent of all manmade greenhouse gases. This causes
FASHION EVOLVE, CHANGE AND ADAPT TO THE NEED OF 25 times more global warming impact than CO2 and is also one
OUR SOCIETY. WE ALL KNOW HOW BAD THE INDUSTRY Julia Körner is a designer who combines traditional, creative methods of the largest driver of deforestation in the world – without even
CAN BE. BUT DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS HAPPENING RIGHT with 3D printing and laser cutting, ending up with complex garments touching upon the tanning process which is also extremely toxic.
NOW, WITH THE HELP OF TECHNOLOGY, SO THAT THE mirroring couture pieces in their craftsmanship. Her design is mostly Yet, imagine that by using alternatives as simple as mushrooms or
FUTURE CAN BECOME BETTER FOR THE PLANET AND inspired by nature and she uses new technologies to imitate the pineapple leaves, we would be able to create fibres that are very
THE PEOPLE? texture of organic elements, such as, the lamella of the Portobello close to – and even better than – full-grain leather.
mushroom.
This is now a reality. MuSkin, invented by the company Zero Grado
Now, close your eyes again. Escape, is a vegetable leather made from a particular mushroom
with a very similar feel to suede. There is no toxic tanning process
Innovative designers are paving the way to create new aesthetics Imagine a world where instead of leaving the plastic to pollute the needed as is treated using eco-friendly products. Even better, the
of beauty, as well as integrate the importance of ethical practice oceans, companies would use this waste to create new materials. fabric is water-repellent, biodegradable and transpiring – hello, no
into their production. The environmental and social costs of fast Currently, using recycled materials is not common place in the more sweaty feet in your leather shoes! It can also be stamped and
fashion are no secret to the public, with headlines reading of factory industry. However, we are seeing it emerge more and more in textured to emulate any kind of exotic skin, but the charm of this
collapses, news of underpaid garment workers, millions of tonnes recent years. A perfect example is sportswear brand Adidas. They natural material is definitely its little defects spread on the organic,
of fabric waste and polluted oceans. We are constantly reminded have pioneered running shoes that are made using recycled plastic irregular surface.
of the harm being done and it is difficult to envisage that in such a from the sea turned into threads. In partnership with Parley for the
turmoil, the fashion industry will find a way to take its head out of Oceans, the company has developed high-performance trainers – If there is one alternative to consider, then Piñatex™, developed by
the water before being drowned by its own damage. each reusing 11 plastic bottles and other recycled materials – and the company Ananas Anam, would top the list. Not only for its look,
is raising awareness to this issue. but the material follows a strong social and ecological agenda as
Precursors like Hussein Chalayan or Isseye Miyake have been well. This innovative, natural textile is made from the fibre of pineapple
experimenting with technology for almost 20 years. But, only Recycling is slowly being introduced more into fashion and this is leaves. They were traditionally used to weave the delicate Barong
recently are we seeing younger designers and forward-thinking thanks to technology. In short, technology makes it easier than ever Tagalog garments of the Philippines and have now been considered
brands looking at science and innovation to resolve the problems before to turn recycled materials into a brand new fabric. Recently, a waste product left to rot or burn by the farming communities. By
that haunt the industry for too long. Some of these innovations Nike presented its new Flyleather, which is a “super material” made sourcing the by-product from the existing agriculture, no additional
wouldn’t have been believable only 10 years ago, but it takes a lot with recycled leather fibres in a closed-loop system. According to land, water, fertilisers or pesticides are required to produce this
of imagination from these designers to dare thinking outside of the Nike, this fibre’s carbon footprint and water usage is considerably raw material. Piñatex™ also offers an additional income stream to
box. Now sit back and let us take you on an imaginary journey… lower than traditional leather, but also five times stronger and farmers growing the fruit around the world and paves the way for
durable. The brand already introduced its first Flyleather style last manufacturing partnerships. Because of the abundance of natural
September to be purchased online and is hoping to create more fibres, the textile can be mass-produced while keeping a low carbon
Pineapple fibre in the Philippines photography B.BLANCO

limited editions and colours. footprint throughout its entire life cycle. Piñatex™ is already used
by eco-conscious brands internationally as a lightweight, durable,
Take a moment to imagine the The snippet of information from Nike raises a very interesting point, flexible and breathable textile. It is also a vegan alternative to leather
but this could go even one step further. What if leather was not in footwear, clothing, accessories and interiors.
Pineapples photography by J.MAENTZ

fashion industry in the future. derived from an animal but came from a natural organism?

Close your eyes and transport


yourself 10 or maybe even 15
years’ time.
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ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

This is all fantastic, but what is even better is that the company Is it wishful thinking to imagine that in the future, fashion will be
is working diligently to take things a step further, literally and dictated by nature instead of having the fashion industry use and

This is Piñatex featuring Bourgeois Boheme | Courtesy of PIÑATEX


figuratively. Dr. Carmen Hijosa, founder of Ananas Anam, and her abuse the planet’s resources?
team are currently working on making the fabric fully biodegradable
and building a sustainable supply chain for their farming partners Two fashion design students at London College of Fashion have
in the Philippines. been exploring the relationship between nature and materials. Their
exploration even allowed them to grow plastic out of… food! Inspired
The best news? by Modern Meadow, the two experimented different formulas to
make their own fabrics in their kitchen, using accessible, vegan There are other controversial projects that many said were meant
This is only the beginning. and non-toxic ingredients. to completely turn our conception of materials upside down. For
the 2016 Graduate Show at Central Saint Martins, MA student
A real fashion revolution is under way that will completely change Laure Fernandez is from France and Maryssa Cook-Obrégon is Tina Gorjanc produced a range of leather accessories made of
the way we think about materials and manufacturing. Imagine a from the United States, both bringing unique cultural perception skin grown from Alexander McQueen’s DNA. The conceptual
world where it would be possible to grow fabrics from almost to the table. During their experimentation period, they discovered project showed that by using the late designer’s hair, it would be
nothing – or more accurately, from living cells like bacteria. The that there is a whole community growing online of people sharing possible to grow human leather as there is no legislation protecting
American start-up, Modern Meadow, has been looking at how their fermentation recipes. This online forum helped them in human genetic materials. The Real Human project was also a critic
biology can be integrated into the fashion industry and how to further knowing what to add – or not add – to their own ‘mixture’. “We towards the luxury industry and its appetite to find the latest rarity
boost the potential of animal-friendly materials. Modern Meadow’s With her team at Modern Meadow, Lee started creating the first really wanted to explore how a garment can come into being and and bespoke products.
designers, scientists and engineers have teemed up and found a commercial product by using liquid black leather to bond white fabrics reflect on it,” Maryssa told me. “This project is directly linked to our
way to ‘biofabricate’ leather through a protein called collagen – an together and design a t-shirt challenging people’s perceptions of consumption: we care about what we eat, but why aren’t we more These are just a few of examples that give insight into how fashion
essential component of leather – without the use of animal skin. leather. A prototype was exposed at the Museum of Modern Art’s careful of what we wear?” and technology can work together, for the better and for the worse.
After years of experiment, the company has perfected a fermentation exhibition entitled “Items: Is Fashion Modern?” to raise awareness Through countless experiments, a heavy dose of curiosity and
process – their own little recipe if you like – to brew collagen. of a new way to work with materials. The product, named Zoa, is By using agar, a jelly-like substance obtained from algae, vegetable most importantly, a desire to always innovate, we see that there
By starting with living cells and then assembling the man-made a leather that can be created in any shape, size, texture and even glycerine derived from plant oils such as palm, soy or coconut are ways to create garments that use nature for good instead of
protein into a sheet material, they ended up producing a leather combined with any other material. All of this while still having the oil, sugar and other natural ingredients found in the supermarket, destroying it. We are seeing more and more designers pushing

Biomaterial made with algae and vegetable glycerine for ‘Remaking Nature’ | Courtesy of MARYSSA COOK-OBRÉGON
material of the future, that is biologically similar to real leather. It is same feeling and quality as real, animal leather. But the Zoa brand they managed to produce bioplastics that they could turn into a the limits of innovation and material production to a point that has
no surprise that the benefit for the planet is astronomically higher focus is on communicating to the consumers and the creative garment. They learned that as long as the brew is fed with water never been seen before. This push is vital if we want to keep our
than real leather, as the production requires minimal land, water, community rather than selling products. And the aim of Modern and glucose, the fabric can keep on growing indefinitely if it has planet liveable and continue designing fascinating garments with
energy, and chemicals in a closed-loop system. Meadow is now to work with big businesses to bring biofabrication enough space and time to expand. a low impact on the environment.
to the next level.
Modern Meadow’s t-shirt prototype appearing at MoMa | Courtesy of MODERN MEADOW

It was in 2014 that Modern Meadow hired Suzanne Lee as creative Imagine if everyone could actually develop their own fabric? Or One last time. Close your eyes.
chief officer to explore the creative possibilities of biofabrication. think even bigger, if it was implemented on a large scale it would
She had already been working on biomaterials and technology become an important alternative to traditional, polluting plastics. Now, imagine a world where the
for over 15 years, especially as a research fellow at Central Saint It is experiments like these that open a completely new chapter on
Martins and with her BioCouture project. “As a designer, the most how we think about materials. The project undertaken by the two fashion industry is completely
exciting part is the creativity that this technology enables,” said Lee students, showcased in an exhibition at the Wellcome Collection
to Business of Fashion. “It enables you to create things in completely called ‘Remaking Nature’, was more a catalyst for people to think sustainable. Keep your eyes shut.
new ways. Texture, weights, strength, elasticity, breathability – all differently about materials and make them question their relationships
of these are now tunable knobs of creativity that we didn’t have with goods and objects. Deep breath.
to this extent before.”
This is the dream of an ever-growing army of designers, brands and
consumers that are trying to change the future of fashion. You have
the power to make a difference with your everyday choices. And
you, whether you’re a creator or a consumer, you have the power
to hold the industry accountable in hopes of a sustainable – and
fashionable – future for all.

76 77
ANANAS
CHERISH CHERISH SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

YOUR YOUR
CLOTHES CANDICE FRAGIS, 37 CLOTHES
Buying & Merchandising Director at Farfetch
@candice_fragis

THERE IS SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL THAT COMES WITH SOME OF THE I buy clothes to colour my story, and with jewellery, As a child I was less fussed and stored them
ITEMS WE OWN. CLOTHES, ESPECIALLY, ARE AN EXTENSION OF OUR I accessorise with my heart. Almost all of the away for when I was grown. Now that I am older,
PERSONALITY AND A WAY TO EXPRESS OURSELVES. THEY DEFINE jewellery I wear is passed down from my mother
WHO WE ARE, MAKE US FEEL POWERFUL AND CAN ALSO BE USED and grandmothers. With this metal thread, I stay they make up my most
TO EXPRESS IDEAS. WITH THE FAST-CHANGING TRENDS OF FASHION, connected to the most important people in my world,
WE CAN EASILY LOSE OURSELVES BY FOLLOWING WHAT IS “IN” AND in this life and that which transcends the living. cherished pieces which I
FORGET THE REAL VALUE HELD IN CERTAIN PIECES OF CLOTHES.
It’s hard to pick just one item but as I type I stare never take off.
EVEN IN THE CLOSET OF THE MOST FASHION SAVVY INDIVIDUALS at my wrist, adorned with gold bangles which
SPECIAL GARMENTS ARE HIDDEN AND KEPT AS TREASURES, SURVIVING represents my first experience of sentimental Sadly, some charms have been lost along the way,
THE FRENETIC CYCLES OF FASHION. THESE ITEMS ARE TIMELESS AND collecting. My maternal grandmother always wore but the memories remain and I can’t wait to pass
CARRY THE MOST VALUED MEMORIES THAT CAN BE PASSED FROM ONE the same and for each grandchild born, she would on the bangle tradition to my children too one day.
GENERATION TO THE OTHER. JACKETS, BRACELETS, TROUSERS, RINGS, add another, with a small charm engraved with
ADORN WITH PRIDE THEIR WEARERS AND ARE, IN RETURN, CHERISHED the name and birth date. The tradition was then
BY THEIR OWNERS WITH ALL THE CARE THEY DESERVE. for her to buy me too a bangle, every year, for my
first decade of birthdays, either plain or with a
symbolic charm for that year.

SARA REIS DO MOURA, 26 EMMA FIRTH, 26


Head of Marketing and Communication at âme moi Online Fashion Editor at Hunger Magazine
@sara_king_moura @emmacfirth

My dad, Mário, was a very cool kid back in 80’s. At the age of 23 my father had me, and since then, I’ve adored buying second hand clothes ever since A quality suit is always a good investment I’ve
He was very tall and very athletic, so it’s easy to he truly is my super hero. He no longer has a dad I was a teenager – it makes up about 70% of my found. Just look to style icons from the 60s and 70s
understand that he was one of the popular ones or a mom, and despite of his “crazy” childhood, wardrobe. At the weekend you can usually find such as Jane Birkin to Diane Keaton who exuded
– for good reasons: he had such a warm appeal. he is such a bright, kind and happy man. me roaming through vintage stores, charity shops a louche allure through their ‘borrowed from the
It was very common to see him with his baby blue (mainly in Dalston and Crouch End) and antique boys’ dress-code. The velvet flared trousers are
bike that he was riding to every place he knew. Why this vintage denim jacket is so dear to me? shops. Over time though I’ve tried to adopt the AG Jeans but the fitted jacket my mum bought
My father used to say that it was like a shell to Vivienne Westwood approach when it comes to me as a birthday present in TK Maxx about five
He was only 14 when he started to work in a him. He always felt comfy wearing it and he always my sartorial choices: years ago (it’s Sandro Paris but cost £40). It’s
factory and he was just 19 when he fell in love felt safe and emotionally warm. the one ‘outfit’ I go back to time and time again.
with my mom. My dad worked double shifts in buy less, choose well, I work at a fashion magazine so never want to
order to buy his first house with my mom and, Actually, it felt like home, look too ‘office-y’ but still chic, put together with
at the same time, he had to deal with a drunk make it last. a little bit of a rock ’n’ roll edge.
father that lived most of his life saying that my a good home.
father wasn’t his son. On top of this, my father
had to protect my beloved grandmother from my Every time I wear his denim jacket, I feel like I am
grandfather, because he used to be very violent paying a true and beautiful tribute to him. Like a
when alcohol was around him. legacy, like a true “I love you, dad”. Don’t I look
proud of it?

78
CHERISH CHERISH 79
ANANAS
CHERISH CHERISH SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

YOUR YOUR
NOREEN GOODWIN, 48 CLOTHES
Investor, Businesswoman, Philanthropist & Mother of eight
OFFIR POSSU ESTAY, 28 CLOTHES
Public Relations Manager at Hugo Boss International Markets
@norsgoodwin @estayhilton

The hunt was on. I wanted a cropped, but not too From my vast wardrobe, I chose my dear black It is not only a quite fashionable piece, it also
short, denim jacket quite a few years ago when A purchase was made. neoprene, hooded jacket from Alexander Wang. combines two of my favourite themes: athleisure
the fashion world was channelling oversized I only have it for three years now, but feel very and practicality. I can wear it with a suit while at
sunglasses with maxi dresses and tight denim Since then the jacket has been worn hundreds comfortable with it and consider it as my lucky work, as well as with t-shirt and jeans. Next to
jackets. After looking at high-end and mid-range of times – over a skirt, with jeans doing double charm. I bought it when I first started working that the fabric is water-repellent, which keeps
priced jackets I couldn’t find anything that was denim, to the gym and over dresses. at Hugo Boss – a job I worked hard to get as I me dry during most seasons. Yet the style is not
the right fit. I am a UK size 8, tall and have long always wanted to work for a fashion brand – and very flamboyant - since it is held in black – which
gangly arms so I was swimming against the tide This has been one of my best buys and I hope it it reminds me to always follow my dreams. is a perfect match to my personality.
in the first place. stays with me for many years to come!
Timeless and resistant,
I am a lover of sample sales and TK Maxx – why
pay more? I was wandering through TK Maxx one this jacket is an item that I will keep for a long time,
day about ten years ago and saw a lady carrying also because every time I wear it, I feel strong and
a denim jacket through the store so I stalked her ready to move mountains
until she put it down. It was by Earl Jeans and a
bargain price of £24.99. As soon as I tried it on
I just knew it was perfect. Great fit, not too short,
not too long and fitted my arms.

ANTOINE COTTON, 25 YAEL GOLAN, 24


Musician Central Saint Martins Mres: Art Exhibition Studies Graduate
@whoiscotton
Years ago, a friend of mine and myself decided Like any other vintage clothing, I like to imagine
For me, there is something truly unique that Despite having a high financial value due to the to get a stand at the market taking place in my who was wearing the item years before me, and
comes with certain things we own, not because fine materials used for its making, it is rather the hometown in Switzerland every 1st of May. We how. But regardless of the romantic dimension
they are valuable but because they represent emotional value that I tend to focus on, because it were both about to move out of the country, and of it, every single time I wear this jumpsuit, I just
something or someone. Personally, I have that simply has more weight in my eyes. It is something I we wanted to make a big spring clearing in our feel amazing.
sort of attachment with only very few items I wear. will happily give to my children to pass it on to theirs. wardrobes.
Actually, the one that comes directly to mind in For those reasons, this very small item has quite a I feel confident,
my case is my grand father’s family ring. It was high sentimental value attached to it and After a few kilos of clothes sold or exchanged, and
given to me by my mother when he passed away as many laughs, I encountered a bright, vintage, happy, cute, and
and I’ve worn it ever since. Simply knowing that I wouldn’t exchange that flowery jumpsuits, that my friend didn’t sell. I
it’s been in my family for almost a century makes instantly fell in love with it, and it’s probably one independent somehow.
me want to keep it close and proudly wear that for anything else. of the pieces of clothing that defines me the most.
heritage. It is somehow the most personal gift he I sometimes like to believe that it’s a magical
left behind and, as the oldest man amongst his jumpsuit, as it has witnessed many special summer
grandchildren, I’m glad to carry on this tradition. days, and created as many special or funny
memories for me. And I’ve had some more romantic
memories with it, like a hot summer night in the
streets of a Greek island town... Well, I guess it’s
not called a playsuit for nothing!

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CHERISH CHERISH 81
ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

INSIDE YOUR WARDROBE, AMONGST YOUR FAVOURITE ITEMS THAT YOU COULD WEAR EVERY DAY, LIE THE ‘MISTAKEN’ CLOTHES THAT YOU
THOUGHT WERE BRAVE ENOUGH TO PULL OFF. THIS RED VELVET DRESS THAT YOU ONCE WORE AT A NEW YEAR’S PARTY, DOES IT REALLY HAS
ITS PLACE IN YOUR EVER-MORE CONSCIOUS DRESSING? AND THIS PAIR OF DENIM THAT YOU HAVEN’T DARED WEARING SINCE YOUR LAST
YEAR OF HIGH SCHOOL, DO YOU REALLY THINK THAT YOU WILL BE ABLE TO CLOSE THE ZIPPER AGAIN?

NO WONDER THAT IN SUCH A WIDE RANGE OF CLOTHES, THERE IS NEVER ANYTHING TO WEAR. IT IS TIME FOR A SPRING CLEARING AND FOR
THROWING YOUR UNWANTED ITEMS IN PLASTIC BAGS FILLED WITH FASHION REGRETS. BUT DON’T WORRY, THERE’S A WAY TO GIVE THEM A
SECOND LIFE! FIND YOUR CLOSEST CHARITY SHOP TO BRING THOSE KILOS OF FABRIC THAT WILL MAKE SOMEONE HAPPIER. YOU WILL COME
OUT WITH A LIGHTER HEART AND WARDROBE, AND MAYBE EVEN NEW THREADS TO RESTOCK IT ON A BUDGET.

Illustration: ANA JAKS


HOW TO ROYAL
GIVE CLOTHES SMART TRINITY
TO CHARITY SHELTER WORKS HOSPICE
WHAT IT IS: Fighting homelessness is Shelter’s main purpose. With about 100 Smart Works not only is a charity providing work clothes, but also Across seven London boroughs, Royal Trinity Hospice supports
shops on high streets across the UK, they raise funds by selling a a place for women to receive styling advice and interview training elderly people in their end of life and give them the care and respect
big variety of items – from second-hand clothing to books, CDs or when they are looking for a job. During her appointment, each they deserve. Their 26 shops raise funds to support the hospice’s
DVDs with some shops dedicated to second-hand furniture. The woman in need receives a high-quality office outfit tailored to her work and also raise awareness to encourage conversations around
charity helps millions of people by giving advice, support and legal taste while also being able to practice one-to-one interview with death and dying. The charity in addition works with corporate
services to help them with their housing issues. an experienced professional. partners who donate end of season stock to be sold in the shops.

WHY IT IS IMPORTANT: The number of homeless people is expected to double in the next The charity makes sure women feel comfortable and self-confident The charity looks after old people in their home or directly in hospices
20 years. Shelter helps those people to find somewhere to live or when they go for their next job interview. The outfit is selected with to give them emotional and practical support at each stage of the
assist them with their tenancy and financial issues. The charity also careful attention and women are given the self-belief and practical end of life. Volunteers also help families and friends to cope with a
gives them a voice and the power to fight rent increases. tools they need to succeed an interview. Smart Works helps women dying relative when needed. They give all the information necessary
open a new chapter in their life by looking and feeling fabulous. to ensure as many people as possible benefit from their help.

Go to your nearest Shelter shop to donate or find a good bargain. You can simply donate high quality clothing or accessories in You can donate good quality items to one of the shops close to
HOW TO GET INVOLVED: You can also volunteer in your local community and develop your all sizes. Why not organise a Clothing Drive within your place of your area and also buy second hand pieces online through their
retail experience by making a difference for people in need. There work? Smart Works gives you all the instructions to do so. You eBay and Amazon shops. As an independent charity, Royal Trinity
are also plenty of ways to take part in events and campaigns all can also donate money or fundraise through several events, such Hospice relies mostly on supporters who can give little donations
over the country. as a fashion show or a triathlon. If you feel like you have the skills in order to train the staff of doctors, nurses and social workers.
to train other women, don’t hesitate to volunteer and give them Planning a baking party or challenge event is also a good way to
the hope for a new life. raise funds. Moreover, there are 20 roles in the hospice or shops
to volunteer and get involved.

WWW.SHELTER.ORG.UK WWW.SMARTWORKS.ORG.UK WWW.ROYALTRINITYHOSPICE.LONDON

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ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

FUR:
FRIEND
OR FAUX?

There is this idea of craftsmanship that is
very well rooted in the fur industry, from the


Fake fur is also a controversial topic
in the industry. The most ardent anti-fur


You offer an after life for every Tallis
jumper that you turn into a hat. Where
sourcing of bespoke skin to the production advocates even argue that faux fur acts does upcycling and customisation stand
IN CONVERSATION WITH and hand finishing. as a ‘gateway’ to the real thing. right now in the industry?
LILY GILBERT
The furrier profession almost completely Synthetic fur is problematic because it’s made The very first products we made at Tallis were
LILY GILBERT IS THE FOUNDER OF TALLIS, A SWISS Being ethical is the main died in Europe and it’s only now that it’s coming from petroleum and it uses a lot of chemicals. hats, which were made from vintage cashmere
BRAND PRODUCING ETHICAL FUR, CASHMERE AND back in, as there’s a lot of young people that are Once it’s produced, it’s not a high performance jumpers, and it’s still a big part of our business.
SHEEPSKIN GARMENTS. BY RESPONSIBLY SOURCING point of Tallis. getting trained. You need special fur machines and or long-lasting material – the quality is not strong When we launched the jumper range, it was a
THE MATERIAL SHE USES, GILBERT MAKES SURE TO somebody who knows how to work with the skin enough to be on a garment that will last for more completely natural step to include the promise
PRESERVE ANIMAL WELFARE AS WELL AS THE OLD because it’s not as working with a fabric that you than a few seasons. Then once it’s thrown away, that people could bring them back to have a hat
TRADITION OF FURRIERS IN HER ADOPTED COUNTRY. have on a roll. So you can’t have a pattern cutting it doesn’t break down – acrylic can last 2’000 one day. I hope upcycling and customisation are

PICTURE 3: TALLIS TIPPET with reclaimed Swiss fox


THE NAME TALLIS COMES FROM A LEGENDARY DEER, approach to making the product. You have to look years before it disappears. But if you put fur in the going to take a bigger part in the industry as a
WHICH BECAME PART OF THE BRANDING, TO SHOW at the piece of fur in front of you and work out ground, within three months, it’s nearly all gone. backlash against fast fashion. Pieces in your
THE BRAND’S COMMITMENT TO THE ENVIRONMENT how to use it because they’re not all the same. I don’t think one option is better or worse, I just closet can be changed or remodelled if it’s good
WHILE CREATING LUXURY YET CONTEMPORARY FUR Especially the fur that we use is not optimised to think that you have to consider all of the impacts enough quality material. There’s a lot of interest in
PRODUCTS. WE TALKED TO THE BRITISH BUSINESS be used for a garment, so it’s more complicated of the fashion garment. And yes, I see the point in waste material. Either what we do, which is taking
WOMAN ABOUT HOW TALLIS IS CHANGING THE and takes time to work with. It’s more like an art the fact that purchasing faux fur, or even the one old garments and cutting them up to make new
STEREOTYPE AROUND ANIMAL SKIN AND WHY really. It has to be done by hand by somebody I do, could push other people to buy any type of ones, or break waste down into a fibre which is
SWITCHING TO FAKE FUR IS NOT SUCH A GOOD IDEA who has an eye for the finished garment. There are fur. But what I hope is that people who go buy more complicated technologically. That might be a
AFTER ALL. a lot of specialists now and all the fur machines a fur product come to Tallis because it’s ethical next step for us; use yarns made from waste, and
they use are very old, but it’s beautiful to work on. and don’t go buy a copy that is produced in bad there’s so much interesting activity in that area.
WWW.THETALLIS.COM Not many people are skilled to transform a vintage conditions.
@thetallis mink skin coat into a smaller piece – that’s why You’ve just participated to ‘The Slow

PICTURE 2: Forever TALLIS vintage cashmere jumper


it’s expensive and can be a barrier to people. But However, it seems that fur has regained Fashion Showcase’ in Geneva. Is ethical
I hope that now more young people will pick up interest in the eyes of millennials while fashion being introduced more and more
How important is it for you to produce Fur is such a controversial topic in fashion. I saw that your production supports social to become furriers. it was perceived as old fashioned a into the mainstream?
your garments locally? How can it be ethical? and professional reintegration for women decade ago.
via SOS Femmes. Gucci decided to ban fur in all their It was an amazing event and a lot of people
Most of the pieces are made from cashmere Being ethical is the main point of Tallis. I future collections and is joining the The generation that is against fur is older came. The five brands that were showing there
that comes from Italy and we also have a partner wanted to be very specific and find the sources Yes, the majority of our pieces is made with Fur-Free Alliance from Spring/Summer than the millennials, because they grew up in the have all a strong commitment to slow fashion. The
in the US who sources vintage cashmere. Then that I considered to be ethical. For me, that a social enterprise called CREATURE, the textile 2018. 80’s and saw all these anti-fur campaigns which most encouraging thing about it was speaking to
everything comes to Switzerland to be processed means one of a few options, for instance, fur that arm of SOS Femmes. They are based in Geneva made fur go out of the industry. I think millennials all these people who visited the fair and said how
with the local sheepskin and fur that we use. It’s is a by-product of another activity like the food and they retrain women who have been long-term That’s their choice and what is right for their are very conscious about their sourcing and they much they loved the concept of slow fashion. Before
important for me to know exactly where it comes industry. Sheepskins, goats and rabbits that we unemployed and they give them a new metier. customers. I can understand the reasons why think about a range of issues that have to do with each catwalk, we explained how our different brands
from. In the end we make all the products and get in Switzerland are animals raised for their The atelier train them up in sowing and couture, they’ve done that but it depends what they use sustainability, the environment, as well as animal are trying to support the idea of slow fashion and
(FROM LEFT TO RIGHT) PICTURE 1: Artisanal production of fur

finish them here in Geneva. Because fur is such meat and we use the fur from that process. Then and after a certain time, women can choose to instead. What I love about fur is that it’s a natural, welfare. This will encourage them in making the it was very well received. There’s a lot of work
a specialised production, we have a couple of another option is what I call reclaimed fur which go work with them. They make the pompoms and renewable and biodegradable material. We use right choice. It’s the first generation understanding being done by the industry to show that you can
furriers here that do special items like the fur is a by-product of another process and would sow them on the hats, and they make all of our it to produce a garment that would be really the word sustainability and integrating it in their make a better choice than fast fashion. We have
collars or the tippets. normally be a waste product. For example the red sheepskin scarfs and collars. long-lasting, and even when it’s not being used purchasing decisions. However, I wouldn’t say a lot of support from Fashion Revolution who
foxes in Switzerland are being controlled by the anymore, it can break down so it doesn’t create a that most of our customers are millennials as we promoted the event. The movement is growing
government to regulate the species and we buy problem of waste in the environment. The problem have a very broad age appeal. and it’s turning into a main term.
the fur from them before it’s been thrown away. in not using any fur is that they might start using
We also use vintage fur made before 1975 and more and more synthetics which, from my point We can only keep producing
re-manufacture these coats into different products. of view, creates a new environmental problem.
in that way and communicate
Photos courtesy of TALLIS

about it so that it will

FUR:
84
become more mainstream.
85
ANANAS SPRING/SUMMER 2018 ISSUE 1

GUIDE TO
HAND-STITCHING

RUNNING STITCH is the basic stitch in hand-sewing or tailoring. It can be used for straight or slightly curved seams.

1. Bring your needle up through the fabric from the wrong side.

2. Push the threaded needle into the fabric you wish to join, gathering the fabric as you push the needle over
with regular spacing in between stitches to form a straight or curved sewing line.

3. Bring the head back up and repeat.

BASTING STITCH is a simple sewing stitch used for several sewing techniques including joining fabric quickly
together by tacking, instead of pinning fabric together.

1. Use the same technique as the running stitch but make longer stitches (between 1/4 and 1/2 inch)

BACKSTITCH is a strong adaptable stitch by hand, also used to secure the start and finish of stitching lines
without the need for an awkward knot. Useful for hard to reach areas where it will look like machine stitching
on the outside and overlapping stitches on the inside.
7 SEW WHAT YOU RIP!
1. Work from left to right: take tiny stitches on the hem, and then on the garment
1. Turn your jeans inside out
2. Keep stitches loose and even
2. Use your scissors to cut off any fraying
threads and trim around the edges of the
hole

CATCHSTITCH is perfect for when you need to hem knitted and stretch fabrics together. Formed by using a 3. Pin the jeans back together, ready for
zig-zag sewing motion which can be sewn over raw edges to keep them from fraying, the catch stitch is worked stitching.
from left to right creating a row of overlapping stitches on the wrong side of the fabric.
4. Start sewing at the top with little catch
1. Work from left to right: take tiny stitches on the hem, and then on the garment stitches to keep stitching as flat and
smooth as possible.
2. Keep stitches loose and even
5. Stitch together using small stitches through
both pieces of denim pulling in together

BLANKET STITCH/BUTTONHOLE STITCH is used to reinforce the edge of thick materials. It is defined as a decorative 6. Turn jeans to see how they’re looking. As
stitch used to finish an unhemmed blanket and can be seen on both sides of the fabric. there’s not much fabric to play with, nice
tight stitches will hold them together for a
1. Secure the thread on the wrong side of the fabric. With the right side facing upward, insert the needle from while
back to front, about an 1/8 inch from the edge.
7. Turn jeans inside out again and continue
2. Wrap the working head around behind the eye of the needle, then behind the point with small over stitching, removing the pins
as you reach them.
3. Pull the needle through, bringing the know to the fabric edge.

READY TO BE WORN AGAIN!

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