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Page Numbering Note.

This PDF package contains the plans for


five machines.
Each of the plans was written to stand
alone, and each has its own table of con-
tents.
The page numbering that is printed on
the bottom of the pages for each set of
plans is consistent with its own table of
contents.
The pages shown in the thumbnails are

numbered consecutively from 1 to 505.
The thumbnail page numbers for the
plans follow.
24x48 ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ 2
25x25 ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ 150
13x13 ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ 261
10x9 ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ 308
18x24 ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ ∙ 396
CNC Router Plans
Plans for a Rack and Pinion, and Leadscrew Drive
CNC Router Table

David Steele

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NOTICE: That which makes CNC machines useful also makes
them dangerous; they move without direct human control.
A CNC table MUST have an easily accessible Emergency Stop
button. The table must be in a safe location where it is
inaccessible to children and unauthorized users; these are not
toys, even a small machine can inflict serious injury.
You, the user of these plans, assume all liability and
responsibility for the construction process, and for the product
you create.
Do not use the plans if these conditions of use are unacceptable
to you.

Copyright © 2011 David K. Steele

David Steele is the copyright owner of these plans. In


consideration for payment, David Steele grants a licence to use
the plans for the purpose of building a machine for personal use.
The licence is not assignable.

1
Table of Contents

Rack and Pinion, and Leadscrew Table

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Carriage Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33


This Manual . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Background . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Back Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Sequence Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Top Plate, Y Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . 35
Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Top Plate, Y Rack and Pinion . . . . . 37
Table Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Y Leadnut Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Z Stepper Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Y Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Z Bottom Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Z Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Attach Sides to Back . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
X Axis Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Studs in Back Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Table Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Stud Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Table Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Z Side Braces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Rack Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Install Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Leadscrew Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Install Braces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Pipe Supports Boards . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Install Carriage Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Table Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Install Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Pipe Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Install Bearing Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Rails Ties Installation . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Z Leadscrew Bearing . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Sequence Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Z Leadscrew Bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Gantry Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Z Leadscrew Bearing Block . . . . . . . 50
Sequence Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Sequence Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Rack and Pinion Top Plate . . . . . . . 51
Rack for Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Pinion Bearing Block . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Rack Brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Pinion Axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Install Rack Brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Assembly of Pinion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Y Pipe Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Z Rails Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Install Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Z Bearing Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Tighten Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Determine Rail Length . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Rack Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Leadnut Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Sequence Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Rail and Bearing Spacing . . . . . . . . 55
Y Bearing Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Cut and Drill Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Measure Y Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Cross Ties Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Gantry End Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Tie Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Left End, X Pinion, Y Leadscrew . . 24 Remove Tie Corners . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Right End, X Pinion, Y Leadscrew . 25 Hole Placement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Ends, X and Y Rack and Pinion . . . 26 Attach Ties to Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Left End, X and Y Leadscrew . . . . . 27 Drill Holes in Ties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Right End, X and Y Leadscrew . . . . 28 Leadnut Cross Tie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Stepper Dimensions . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Leadnut Support Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Gantry Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Attach Leadnut Tie to Rails . . . . . . . 63
Y Leadscrew Bearing Block . . . . . . 29 Spindle Mount Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Belt Tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Spindle Cradles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
X Rack Stepper Mount . . . . . . . . . . 30 Vertical Flat Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
X Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Flat Bar Cross Tie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Angle Bearing Support . . . . . . . . . . 32 Router Band Straps . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
120° Flat Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Router Mount Assembly . . . . . . . . . 68

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Tension Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 X Leadscrew Sequence Note . . . . . . 95
Tension Rod Extensions . . . . . . . . . 69 X Leadnut Brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Adjust Z Tension Rods . . . . . . . . . . 70 Cut X Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Sequence Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Install Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Z Leadscrew, Overview . . . . . . . . . . 70 Install Leadnut Brackets . . . . . . . . . 98
Z Leadscrew Installation . . . . . . . . . 71 Install X Stepper and Belts . . . . . . . 99
Sequence Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Sequence Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Gantry Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Assemble Rack X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Attach Gantry to Rails . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Racks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Attach End Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Rack Boards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Attach X Pinion Components . . . . . . 75 Rack Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Attach X Stepper Mount . . . . . . . . . 76 Install Rack Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Install X Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Install X Racks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Attach Carriage to Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Steppers, Leadscrews and Racks . . . . . . . . 104
Position Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Steppers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Rack and Pinion Y Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Micro-Stepping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Y Pinion Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Leadscrews TPI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Install 36 Tooth Pulley . . . . . . . . . . 79 Racks and Pinions . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Tension Pinion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Determining Steps Per Inch, Screw 107
Install Y Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Determining Steps Per Inch, Rack . 108
Install Idler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Tuning Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Design Notes for Pinion . . . . . . . . . . 81 Drive System Comparisons . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Leadscrew Y Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Install Bearing Block . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Material and Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Install Y Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Install Y Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Install Idler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Install Z Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Belts and Pulleys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Sequence Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Racks and Pinions . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Assemble Leadscrew X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Table Sizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Front Leadscrew Bearings . . . . . . . . 87 Lengthening X Rack . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Back Leadscrew Bearings . . . . . . . . 87 X Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Front Bearing Blocks . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Length of Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Anti-Whip Bearing Blocks . . . . . . . . 88 Widening X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
X End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Determining Length, One Belt . . . . 119
One Stepper One Long Belt . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Determining Length, Two Belts . . . 119
Long Belt End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Stepper Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Plywood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Idler for Long Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Plastic Bearing Blocks . . . . . . . . . . 121
Install Belt and Stepper . . . . . . . . . . 90 Stepper Mounts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
One Stepper with Two Belts . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Suppliers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Stepper Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Parts Lists . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Install Belt and Stepper . . . . . . . . . . 92 Y Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Two Slaved Steppers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Z Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Stepper Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Parts By Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Pulleys Belts, Bearings, Racks . . . . 131
Install Belts and Steppers . . . . . . . . 94 Aluminum Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Install All End Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Templates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134

0
Introduction

This Manual builders can customize the table to fit different


budgets and needs.
This set of plans is intended to be used as a guide
that can be followed step by step, and as a set of The machine was kept simple by combining the
ideas that can be used to build a custom machine. functions of the individual pieces. This lowers the
parts count which also simplifies final tuning. The
Those who want to build a machine that is virtually parts are designed to allow for offsets so absolute
identical to the prototypes can follow the directions precision during drilling and cutting is not critical.
as they are presented. Those who are building a The components were also designed on a 1/16 or
custom machine will find practical information that 1/8 inch grid so the dimensions would be easier to
is based on actual working equipment. measure.

The manual is written for a wooden machine; The accuracy and speed of the machine are largely
however, a version with an aluminum gantry and determined by the quality and type of drive
carriage has been tested, and the minor components. The Drive System Comparison Chart
modifications required are addressed on page 132. on page 112 lists some of the options and their
performance. This section should be reviewed
Further information regarding components, prices before deciding on the style of machine, and before
and performance is also in the last pages of this purchasing parts.
manual. Those sections should be reviewed before
ordering any parts.
Sequence Notes
Not all materials will be the same size for all
builders; this is taken into consideration in the The X axis is addressed first because the other
plans, and directions are given to address the axes’ components have to be in place on the X axis
necessary sequencing. Therefore, before beginning before they can be completely assembled.
work, the manual should be previewed. However, it is possible to make, but not assemble,
most of the individual components for all axes
The individual parts are addressed in their own before building the X axis.
sections. Read through each section before
beginning work on each component. Fabricating and partially assembling the parts for
the Y and Z axes beforehand may work well when
shop space is at a premium and the table is
Background expected to be a long term project.

These machines were designed to be inexpensive, The width of the X axis has to match the length of
simple to assemble and accurate for the cost. This the gantry, and the height of the Z carriage must
was accomplished by using lumber yard materials match the height of the gantry. Therefore, deciding
with off the shelf drive components. on the size of the gantry is a logical starting place
for building a custom sized machine. The Table
The machines use standard sizes efficiently. The Sizing section on page 115 addresses the
gantry is sized for a 36 inch leadscrew or pinion relationships between these parts.
axle. The X length uses a 4 foot rack and 5 foot
pipes. These give an X travel of 4 feet and Y travel Work on the machine can begin with the gantry
over 2 feet. beam on page 17. Once its height is determined, the
Z carriage can be built. However, as just
There are always trade-offs when balancing cost mentioned, the X axis is addressed first in this
against quality. This machine was designed to manual because the other two axes cannot be
allow flexibility in the choices of components so completely assembled without being on the X.

Introduction 5
The wood requires very few long cuts; so few that
Tools most could be done at the place of purchase. The
short cross-cuts could then be done at home with
The machine was designed to be built using the an arm, chop-miter or hand saw. The cuts do not
tools found in a modest home shop. Of course the have to be extremely accurate to produce a
larger the tool inventory, the easier construction workable product.
will be; however, a fully equipped wood shop is
unnecessary. On the rack and pinion X axis there is one pair of
4 foot long 2 x 2s that have to be cut to a custom
Tools required include: width of around 1-1/4 inch. A table saw or plane
Power saw for wood will do this easily, but a circular saw or even a
Small hand saw, coping, miter or keyhole etc. hand saw and patience could do the job.
Hack saw
Power drill The table bed can be cut to size at the store. All of
Drill bits: A basic 1/16 to ½ inch at 1/64 inch set the other sheet stock parts such as the rack
Forstner bits, ½ to 1-1/8 inch supports, gantry end-plates and carriage pieces
1-1/2 inch hole saw could also be ripped to width when purchased.
Taps #8-32, #10-24, 1/4-20, and 5/16-18 Therefore, a table saw is not required, but it will
Screwdrivers: Phillips and flat make construction more convenient.
Wrenches: Basic 3/8 to 3/4 inch set of box
wrenches There are a number of holes in the top and
Hex- Allen- wrenches end-plates that need to be fairly accurate; room for
Small socket wrenches or nut drivers adjustment up to nearly 1/8 inch is designed into
Combination square some parts, so extreme accuracy is not always
Measuring tape critical. A drill press will help to keep the holes
Vise straight and on center, especially when using
Center punch Forstner bits. However, a hand held power drill
File will work well enough; a drill press is not
Hammer absolutely necessary.

Tools that are not required but will be helpful This machine is not suitable for spare bedroom
include: construction, but it was designed to only use the
Jig or band saw tools found in a modest home shop.
Table saw
Arm saw or chop saw
Drill press Table Overview
Power sander: belt, disk or orbital
Power metal saw: stationary or hand held The machine consists of
5/16 inch brad point bit. (This bit removes the need three axes, the X table, the Y
for many pilot holes) gantry and the Z carriage. As
shown in the image the X is
The machine was designed around standard sized the longest axis, the Y moves
lumber and hardware. This reduces the need for horizontally, and the Z
ripping or planing the stock to size. moves up and down.
For reference throughout the
The metal components of the wooden version, with manual, the front is the side
the exception of the pipes and leadscrews, are made with the router-spindle. Front view of the
of thin aluminum; all can be cut with a hack saw. completed machine.

Introduction 6
The X axis can use racks and pinions or
X Axis leadscrews to move the gantry. Racks can be
abutted; therefore, they do not limit the length of
The X axis is simply a table with rails and racks machines the way leadscrews do, since long
attached to its sides, or leadscrews to its legs. This leadscrews whip. Racks tend to permit faster
layout permits this axis to easily be changed in speeds but can be less precise than leadscrews.
length while requiring no alterations to the rest of
the machine. The X stepper and pinion assembly is attached to
the gantry. Therefore, the rack and pinion X axis is
mechanically simple.

The leadscrew version of the X axis can use a


variety of screws and stepper configurations. All
versions use two leadscrews with one on each side
of the table. This configuration is stable and frees
the space underneath the table for other systems
from vacuum hold-downs to storage.
Rack and pinion X axis. Leadscrew X axis.
The plans cover three layouts for driving the X
leadscrews. These include one stepper with a single
The X axis is primarily built from 2 x 6 framing long belt coupling the stepper’s pulley to the
lumber which has an actual dimension of 1-1/2 x leadscrews’ pulleys. Also included is one stepper
5-1/2 inches. This stock is used for the legs, the with two belts and pulleys, with each belt coupled
pipe rail supports, and the frame of the table bed. to one leadscrew pulley. Finally there are two
slaved steppers with each stepper dedicated to a
Four foot long strips of plywood support the racks, single leadscrew. The advantages and shortcomings
and 2x4s support the field of the table bed. On the of each are addressed in the X Leadscrew section
leadscrew version, a 1x4 spans the back and serves on page 86.
as a stepper mount. The table bed is made of tee
slotted MDF; the tee slots serve well as anchors for
hold down clamps. This can be replaced with Y Gantry
plywood or flat MDF.
The gantry is made of a 2x6 board or a 6 inch
Leg braces may be required underneath the table aluminum channel with a ½ inch plywood or a 3/8
bed. These are not specifically addressed; there are inch aluminum plate on each end. These end plates
many options, from 2x4 diagonals to a shelf or set support the bearings that ride the X rails as well as
of shelves. other drive components.

There are multiple versions of the gantry. One uses


a rack and pinion to move the carriage and the
gantry. Another version uses leadscrews for each
axis. A third version uses racks for the X
movement and a leadscrew for the Y motion. It
would also be possible to use a rack for the Y
movement and leadscrews for the X, but this is not
specifically addressed.
Diagonal braces. Shelf as bracing.
The Y axis can use a variety of leadscrews from
Allthread to ballscrews.

Introduction 7
Z Carriage

The body of the Z carriage is made of ½ inch


plywood or ½ and 3/8 inch aluminum. The carriage
holds the bearings that ride the Y gantry rails as
Wooden components and pipe rails of the Y leadscrew
and X rack version of the gantry. Front view. well as the bearings for the Z rails.

There are two versions of the carriage. One is for


a rack and pinion Y axis, and the other is for a
leadscrew Y axis.
The main difference between these two versions is
the top plate of the carriage; one supports the
stepper and pulleys for the pinion. For the
Back of Y leadscrew gantry showing X stepper
leadscrew version, the Y stepper is attached to the
and pinion axle.
end of the gantry.

Back view of leadscrew carriage on gantry. The gantry in the


image is moved by pinions; their axle spans the end plates. Z carriage for
Z carriage for rack and
leadscrew gantry.
pinion gantry.

The gantry’s 2x6 for the Y leadscrew version has The Z stepper is mounted on top of the carriage
a dado removed on one side to give clearance for and is offset from the leadscrew with a belt and
the leadscrew. The Y rack version does not need to pulleys.
have this valley removed. The channel in the
aluminum version is positioned so there is ample The Z axis uses a leadscrew; the type of screw can
clearance. vary. The clearance is tight, so the plans only
address Allthread and Acme screws that fit in 7/8
The pinions' axle is supported by fixed bearings; inch OD bearings. This permits screws up to ½
this helps to eliminate backlash. This configuration inch diameter, if their ends are machined. A
also requires fewer components and is easier to ballscrew version was not built and tested because
build. quality Acme screws work well, and new small
diameter ballscrew assemblies are expensive.
The gantry uses the same method of pipe support Again, cost was one of the primary factors that
as the X axis. This system uses threaded studs with determined the components of this machine.
nuts and washers that firmly anchor the pipe rails
into place.

Introduction 8
1. Build the table frame without its top.
Construction 2. Attach the legs to the table frame.
3. Attach the 2x6 rail supports to the legs.
X Axis 4. Install the table top.
5. Loosely install pipe-rails.
The basic X axis for both the leadscrew and rack
machines is made of framing lumber and a slab of The rack or leadscrew components are attached
MDF. It consists of four 2x6 legs that support a after the gantry is installed, because their location
table bed which is framed with 2x6 band/rim joists, depends on the placement of the pinions or leadnuts
and uses 2x4s as the field joists. The table is that are part of the gantry.
surfaced with 3/4 inch tee slot MDF.

Table Frame

The table frame is simply a box made of 2x6s that


hold 2x4s that support the table top.
The lumber is held
together with glue
and 2-1/2 inch
drywall screws or
the equivalent.

The positions of the Outside dims


60 x 33-7/8 inches
pilot holes are given
X table made of 2 x 6 lumber. in the drawings. These holes are also used to mark
the matching pilot holes in the stock to which the
The rails are made of 3/4 inch black iron (gas) pieces are attached. This is done by drilling
pipe; this has an outside diameter of just over 1 through the holes and into the matching board with
inch. The pipe rails are tied to 2x6 boards that have a smaller bit.
1-1/2 inch holes drilled through them for access to
the attachment hardware. The holes for the screws’ shafts should be the
diameter of the shafts. The holes for the threads
The rack and pinion X axis machine uses a pair of should be the screws’ root diameter; this is the
four foot long racks on the X axis. Four feet is a diameter that would be left were the threads
standard length; the suppliers usually cut the racks stripped off. Framing lumber is soft so the holes
a little long so they can be dressed for abutting. can be undersized.
This extra length permits the rack version
to have an X travel of just over four feet
with stock components.

The racks are screwed to 4 foot long pieces


of ½ inch plywood that are spaced from the Two by four field joist. Make three.
2x6 rail supports with ripped-to-
width 2 x 2s.

The parts can be cut and drilled in


any order, but assembly of the
components is easier in the
following sequence. Two by six end boards. Make two.

Construction X Axis 9
Two by six side boards. Make two. Dashed lines show position of 2 x 4s.

The heads of the screws can be countersunk, but


because of the softness of the wood, drilling a
countersink depression may be unnecessary. The
screws will probably pull themselves flush into the
wood when they are tightened into place.

The preceding figures show the dimensions of the


boards. Construction is simply a matter of cutting
the parts to length and screwing and gluing them
together. Side view of rack table. Front is on left.

The table frame can be built now.


Rack Legs

Table Legs The legs for the rack and pinion version are simply
cut to length and drilled for the attaching screws.
There are two layouts for the leg sets. One is for
the rack and pinion X axis, and the other is for the
leadscrew X axis. Both versions are made of 2x6
framing lumber.

The machine is designed so the top of the table will


be 32 inches from the floor when 3/4 inch stock is
used for the table top. This places the bottom of the
frame’s 2x6s at 25-3/4 inches from the floor, as
shown in the leg drawings. The dashed lines show
the position of the 2x6s for the table bed and pipe
supports.

The legs are attached to the frame with 2-1/2 inch


drywall screws. The positions of the pilot holes are
shown in the drawings.

Turn the frame on edge so one side is flat on the


floor while attaching the legs on the other side, then
roll the unit over and attach the other two legs.
Likewise, the frame can be supported on saw
horses while the legs are attached. Front legs for rack version; Back legs for rack version.
make two. The very top screw position is
mirrored on one leg.

Construction X Axis 10
The back legs are shorter than the front legs to give
clearance for the rack assembly. The back legs lack
one top screw hole because of the 1-1/2 inch hole
in the rail support. Therefore, one back leg is
mirrored.

Take care to attach the legs so they are square with


the table frame. The legs are flush with the ends of
the table frame.

Make and attach the legs now.


Side of leadscrew table. Front is on left.

Leadscrew Legs

The legs for leadscrew version are notched and


drilled for the leadscrews.

All four legs use the same pattern, but the 7/8 inch
leadscrew hole in two legs is mirrored so the
leadscrew will be positioned away from the rails.

Top of leadscrew leg. Leg with leadscrew.


The legs are flush with the ends of the table frame;
Hole is positioned away
they should be square to the frame.
from pipe-rail.

Make and attach the legs to the table bed at this


time.

Top of legs for leadscrew versions.


Two are mirrored.

Top of leg is notched and drilled for


leadscrew and leadnut clearance.
Legs for leadscrew table.

Construction X Axis 11
Pipe Support Boards

The pipe rails are tied to 2x6 boards that are cut to
length.

Holes are drilled into the top edges and sides of the
boards; these holes accept the hardware that holds
the pipe rails in place.

The boards are screwed to the tops of the legs just


as the table frame is. The location of these boards
is shown with the dashed lines in the leg drawings
in the previous sections.

During attachment to the legs, these 2x6 boards


can be supported on scrap pieces of 2x6 that rest
on the table frame. This is handier than using
clamps. The distance between the top of the table Pipe attached to 2 x 6. Holes in 2 x 6 for pipe
frame and the bottom of these 2x6 rail supports is The center of the table rail attachment. The
5-1/2 inches, as shown in the leg drawings. This is is toward the right. center of table is toward
the same measure as the width of a 2x6. the right.

The holes in the top edges of the 2x6s are ½ inch;


these will accept 3/8 inch threaded studs. The holes
are oversized to permit adjustment during final
assembly. These ½ inch holes are aligned with the
1-1/2 inch holes in the sides.

The holes in the sides of these two boards are 1-1/2


inches in diameter. The holes are this large to allow
wrench access to the nuts on the threaded studs.

These 2x6s are flush with the top of the rack legs,
but are ½ inch below the top of the leadscrew legs.
Rail support. ½ inch
The ½ inch holes in these boards are toward the hole is toward the
center of the table. inside of the table.

The 2x6 pipe rail supports can be made and


installed now.

Rail supports made of 2 x 6 lumber. Make two.

Construction X Axis 12
Table Top Pipe Rails

The top of the table can be virtually any sheet The pipe rails are made of 3/4 inch ID (Inside
stock. Diameter) gas pipe, also called black iron pipe. It
The prototype uses 3/4 inch MDF tee slot which is has an outside diameter of just over 1 inch.
handy with work clamps. Though there is only 1/4
inch of material in the top of the slot for the clamp Holes with a diameter of 3/8 inch are drilled in the
to pull against, the product has performed well. pipe to match the ½ inch holes that have already
However, clamping heavier or warped stock been drilled in the tops of the 2x6s.
requires the use of multiple clamps to prevent the
load from tearing the MDF slots. Studs with a diameter of 3/8 inch will be tied into
these holes. It is difficult to drill all of the holes in
an exactly straight line, so the holes can be drilled
as large as ½ inch to allow for offsets. Enlarge the
holes only as needed.

Nuts will sandwich the pipe as shown in the


following section. The pipe’s metal is too thin to
Tee slot table top. support the threads of the 3/8 inch studs, so nuts
have to be used. Smaller diameter studs do not
offer enough support.
The table top is 60 inches by 33-7/8 inches. It can
be cut a fraction narrower to make it easier to fit The pipes are 5 feet long. This is half of a standard
between the legs. 10 foot length, which can be cut at the home center.

The top is attached to the table frame’s rim and The ends of the pipes are likely to be threaded. The
field joists with glue and 1-5/8 inch drywall screws two threaded ends can be positioned at either end of
or similar. the table, but placing them at the front of the table
The screws are driven into the slots of the MDF so and using pipe caps as stops will be helpful during
there will be no chance of a router bit cutting into construction. The stops will hold the gantry onto
the screw heads. The screws can be roughly a foot the rails while the carriage, leadscrews and/or
apart around the perimeter and in the field. pinions are installed.

This slab helps to hold the machine square. Threads can be cut for stops in both ends of the
Therefore, if the table bed is to be sacrificial it is pipes, but with limit switches and steppers, a
better that the sacrificial slab be put on top of this runaway gantry is unlikely, and stops at the ends of
board, rather than using this one sheet as the the rails are not critical.
replaceable surface.
Cut the pipes and drill their holes as shown in the
The table top can be cut and installed now. Check drawing below at this time. Be sure the holes align
for square before gluing the top into place. with the holes in the 2x6 support boards.

Holes in 3/4 ID gas pipe. Make two.

Construction X Axis 13
trying to catch the nut with the stud inside the pipe.
Pipe Rail Ties and Installation
After the nut and stud have been checked for a
The pipes are tied to the 2x6s with 3-1/2 inch long clean connection, put the nut in the pipe and roll it
studs cut from 3/8-16 threaded rod. Eight studs are to a center hole. A screwdriver or awl in the hole
required for the X axis, and six are needed for the will stop the nut.
Y axis.
With the pipe flat on a table and the hole facing up,
Nuts on the studs use the awl to align the nut in the hole.
sandwich the pipe and
clamp it into place. The center holes may need to be enlarged to as
large as a ½ inch to allow easy access, and for all
Washers are placed of the studs to project from the pipe in the same
between the nuts and the direction.
2x6 beam. Large washers
should be used here to Thread the stud into the nut that is inside the pipe
distribute the load. The so the stud is completely through the nut. Put the
nuts will be fastened as second nut on the stud on the outside of the pipe
tightly as possible to the and lightly tighten it against the pipe. Make sure
rails and beam, and the not to unscrew the inside nut during this process.
wood will compress. Install all studs.
Stud tying pipe to beam.

Two washers are necessary at each nut. Fender Put the washers on the studs with the smaller
washers are not thick enough to bear the load, so washers against the nuts. The studs should all be
two washers have to be stacked. One washer has an loose in the pipe.
outside diameter of 1-1/8 inches to seat well on the
wood, and the smaller washer has an inside Slide the studs into their holes in the beam. Put the
diameter of 3/8 inch to keep the nut from tearing washers and nuts on the studs where they project
through the washer. into the 1-1/2 inch holes.

Washer sizes vary by supplier and their nominal It may not be possible to use the larger washers on
measures do not match their exact dimensions. It is the inside hole because the studs do not extend far
easier to purchase the washers with a 3/8 inch bolt enough. This is not a problem.
or stud in hand to check their sizes.
Incrementally tighten the nuts that abut the pipe.
The larger washer cannot be so big as to overhang Make sure that the studs do not turn and loosen the
the side of the beam. Oversized washers can inside nuts. Once it is clear
interfere with the bearings on the X axis and the that everything aligns,
leadnut on the Y axis. An 1-1/8 inch OD washer firmly tighten the nuts
works well as the larger one. against the pipe.

The holes in the ends of the rails are positioned Do not tighten the nuts that
near the pipe ends so it will be easier to start the are in the 1-1/2 inch holes
nut on the stud; a finger can fit in the pipe to hold in the beam. These will be
the nut. tightened when the gantry is
installed. Tight nuts may deform
The nuts in the center of the pipe are not too the pipe. This is not a
difficult to start if the threads are clean. Make sure The pipes may slightly problem.
that a nut starts and turns easily on the stud before bulge around the inside nut

Construction X Axis 14
as shown in the drawing on the previous page. of the pinions on the gantry; therefore, they cannot
be installed at this time. However, some of the X
The bulges can be filed later if they interfere with racks’ components can be cut and drilled now.
the lower bearing’s travel. This bulging is not a These are addressed in the Final Assembly of Rack
problem on the gantry since the bearings only ride X Axis section on page 100.
on one side of the rails.
The X leadscrews can be installed without the
Cut the eight studs and install the pipes now. While gantry being in place, and all of the X leadscrew
the tools are at hand, the six studs for the gantry components can be built now, if desired. These are
can also be cut. All are 3-1/2 inches long. covered in the Final Assembly of Leadscrew X
Each stud requires 3 nuts and two pairs of Axis section on page 86.
washers. The six studs for the aluminum channel
gantry are 2-1/4 inches long.
The gantry section begins on the next page, and
directions for the gantry beam are given
Sequence Note immediately after the introduction. The plans are
sequenced this way so the carriage can be made as
This completes all that can be done to the X axis at soon as possible.
this time.
As previously mentioned, once the size of the
The X rails cannot be tightened into place until the gantry beam with the Y trucks is known, the
gantry is attached to them. The gantry will hold carriage can be built.
the rails true as the hardware is tightened. The carriage is the smallest and most complex axis
on the machine; its construction will probably take
The racks or leadscrews will be installed after the longer than the other axes. Building this axis
gantry is on the X rails. before the other axes will keep the other larger axes
from sitting idle and crowding shop space while the
The X racks’ alignment depends on the placement Z carriage is being built.

Construction X Axis 15
Gantry Overview

The gantry for all versions consists of three major


components; these are the two end plates and the
gantry beam.
Front view of gantry with X pinion and Y leadscrew.
The beam is a 2x6 cut to length with holes drilled
for pipe-stud access as was done on the X axis’
2x6 rail supports.

Back view of gantry with X pinion axle and


Y leadscrew stepper.

Gantry with end-plates, X rack and Y leadscrew version.

The beam for the Y leadscrew version has a trough


dadoed in it to give the leadscrew and leadnut
clearance behind the carriage. Front view of gantry with rack and pinion X and Y axes.

The end plates are made of ½ inch plywood and


have different hole placements for each system to
accommodate the X pinion bearing, the X leadnut
mount, the X pinion stepper, the Y leadscrew, and
the Y leadscrew stepper.

All of the end plates are cut from the same basic
shape and have identical truck systems.
Front view of gantry for X and Y leadscrew axes.
Notes on the aluminum gantry are on page 132.

Sequence Note

The gantry beam is built first. The other gantry can skip ahead to the carriage section once
components of the gantry, including the end-plates, the height of the gantry’s beam has been
the X stepper mount, and the X bearing sets can be determined.
built at any time. However they can not be
completely assembled until the gantry is on the X The Y rack for the rack and pinion version of the
axis. gantry requires that its brackets be installed before
the top rail is installed. Thus the rack installation
The Z carriage can be built once the height of the section precedes the gantry rail section.
gantry and Y bearings is known. Those wishing to The rack section can, of course, be ignored when a
begin work on the carriage before finishing the leadscrew is used on the Y gantry.

Gantry Beam 16
On the leadscrew version a ½ x 1-½ inch trough
Gantry Beam is dadoed from end to end in
the face of the beam; it has the
The height of the gantry determines the height of same centerline as the wrench
the Z axis; therefore, the gantry beam should be access holes.
built before further work is done on the gantry or This cut-out gives clearance
the carriage. for a variety of leadnuts; the
dado is unnecessary when a
The aluminum channel version is addressed in the rack is used on the Y axis.
Aluminum Notes section on page 132.
The beam can be cut and Trough cut in gantry for
drilled at this time. leadscrew clearance.

Rails on 2 x 6 beam. Front view, Y leadscrew version.

The rails are 3/4 ID gas pipe, which are attached to


the top and bottom edges of the 2x6 with studs cut
from 3/8-16 threaded rod. This is the same
attachment method that is used on the X axis.

The actual dimension of the 2x6 is 1-1/2 x 5-1/2


inches; it is cut to 33-1/4 inches long. This length
fits a 36 inch pinion axle and Y leadscrew.

Half inch holes are drilled into its edges for 3/8
inch studs that support the pipe rails, and 1-1/2 Pipe rails held to
Gantry beam end view. The
gantry beam with
inch holes are drilled through the beam for wrench studs. Leadscrew
dadoed section does not have
access to the studs and nuts. to be removed for the rack and
version shown.
pinion gantry. Front is on
right.

Gantry beam dimensions.

Gantry Beam 17
Rack for Y Movement

This section can be ignored when a


leadscrew is used to move the carriage
on the gantry. Skip ahead to the Y Pipe
Rails section on page 20.

The rack is cut and drilled as shown at


the bottom of the page.
Rack on top back of gantry.
It can be purchased as a 2 foot section
which will actually be nearer 25 inches; the
suppliers cut the racks long to permit trimming for
clean abutment. Three equally spaced screws in the 2 foot length
This extra length can be left on the rack; it will allowed the rack to flex.
permit the carriage to travel slightly farther.
Factory drilled racks are pre-drilled to 4 inches;
As mentioned in the X rack section, the rack can be this short distance provides more support than is
cut from a 6 foot section when the X axis uses 4 needed with this machine.
foot racks.
The holes in the rack should allow for a small
The rack dimensions do not have to be exactly as amount of adjustment around the attaching screws.
drawn. The rack length will vary as just noted, and A diameter of 1/4 inch usually works well. The
the hole spacing can be different. holes can be enlarged if needed.

It is important that the rack holes are not near the The holes are centered between the teeth and the
stud holes in the beam. If too close, the studs and back of the rack.
the brackets will block each other.
The rack can be cut and drilled at this time. It is
The hole spacing of 7-1/2 inches was chosen to installed after the brackets and rails are in place.
give equal spacing with four attachment screws.

Holes in rack. The holes are larger than the attaching screws to allow adjustment.

Gantry Beam 18
Rack Brackets
One hole in the long leg is countersunk for a small
The gantry’s rack sits on four sections of 1 x 1/8 wood screw that fastens the bracket to the top of
inch aluminum angle that are cut to 3/4 inch with the gantry beam.
a 7/16 inch vertical leg.
There are directions for the aluminum channel These four brackets can be cut, drilled and tapped
version on page 132. at this time. The hole for the rack’s longer screw
will be drilled later.

Install Rack Brackets

The rack brackets have to be installed below the


top rail before the rail can be attached to the beam.
Therefore, the brackets are installed now.
Rack support bracket with the two holes
that are drilled first. Place the four brackets on the top back of the
gantry beam so they align with the rack’s holes
when the rack is centered end to end on the beam.
The brackets should be aligned so the rack’s holes
are centered width-ways over the brackets.

The back of the gantry beam is the side that is 7/8


inch from the ½ inch stud holes; the pipe rail’s stud
holes are nearer the front of the beam.

The edge of the long leg of the brackets should be


flush with the back of the gantry beam as shown in
the drawing on the left.
Rack on Gantry. Front is on right.
When the brackets are aligned with the rack holes,
remove the rack, and screw the brackets into the
beam with #4 x 3/4 wood screws. The screw size
In the bracket’s short leg a 9/64 inch hole is drilled is not critical. Pilot holes in the 2x6 may be
and tapped for a #8-32 x 3/4 inch machine screw. necessary for the small screws.
This screw presses the rack into position against
the pinion. The holes in the brackets for the longer screws
cannot be drilled until the top pipe rail is in place.
The rack will abut the rail and that position will be
determined later.

Install the brackets now. The top rail cannot be


installed until these rack brackets are in place.

Hole placement in rack support bracket.


Left hole will be determined later by the
rack. Four brackets required.

Gantry Beam 19
Y Pipe Rails

Gantry rail dimensions. Made of 3/4 inch ID gas pipe. Make two.

The pipe rails on the gantry, like those on the X other.


axis, are made of 3/4 inch ID gas pipe. They are The washers on the top and
cut to 30-1/2 inches long, and 3/8 inch holes are bottom can slightly overhang the
drilled into them for the attachment studs. This is edge of the beam. But the
the same process as was described in the X axis washers in the 1-1/2 inch holes
Pipe Rail section. should not protrude beyond the
The two rails can be cut and drilled at this time. face of the beam on the
Make sure that the holes in the rails match the leadscrew version. The leadnut The pipes are
holes in the gantry beam. clearance is close, and the approximately 1/8
leadnut can bump into the inch from the
washers. edge of the 2 x 6.
Install Rails
As on the X axis, there may not be enough room
The rails are installed onto the beam the same way for the larger washers to be used on the studs in the
the X rails were attached. The directions on page 1-1/2 inch holes. This is not a problem; the one
14 for the X rails apply here. The only difference smaller washer is usually enough, though it will be
is there are rails on both the top and bottom of the pressed into the wood.
gantry. There are notes for the aluminum version
on page 132. On the Y rack version, the bottom of the top rail
For the rack and pinion Y axis version, the rack will be close to the short leg of the rack brackets.
brackets have to be installed before the top rail is The rail may touch the brackets, but it should not
put in place. See Rack Brackets on previous page. press them into the wood enough to keep the
brackets from sitting flat on the top of the gantry.
Loosely install the rails onto the beam now. If this does happen, the brackets’ short legs can be
filed to fit, or extra washers can be used to raise
the rail.
Tighten Rails
Tighten the rails into place at this time.
The rails have to be parallel to each other. This is
accomplished by placing the gantry face down on For the Y leadscrew version, skip ahead to the
a flat surface and using a spacer such as a Sequence Note on page 21.
yardstick or paint paddle to space the pipes so they For the Y rack version, see the following section
are around 1/8 inch from the edge of the beam. See for additional information.
the above right drawing.

This distance will vary because of the orientation Rack Installation


of the studs in the pipes and the holes in the beam.
This section can be ignored for the Y leadscrew
The two pipes do not have to be spaced the exact version.
same distance from the edge of the beam. There is The rack can be installed on the rack and pinion
room for adjustment elsewhere, so the only critical gantry machine after the rails are tightened into
factor here is that the rails are parallel to each place.

Gantry Beam 20
Abut the rack against the top rail so its holes align
with the brackets. Use the holes in the rack as Sequence Note
templates to mark their positions on the aluminum
brackets. The other parts of the gantry can be
built at this time, but the gantry cannot
be completely assembled until it is on
the X axis. The directions for the gantry
follow the next Y Bearing Trucks
sections.

The carriage can be built once the


height of the rails and bearing trucks is
determined, right image.

Building the carriage could be the next


Rack abuts pipe rail. step when shop space is limited or when Height of
carriage.
this will be a long term project.
Therefore, the carriage’s bearing trucks are
The screws that tie the rack to the beam should be addressed next.
at least 1-1/2 inches long; they need to firmly tie
the rack into place. #8 x 1-1/2 sheet metal screws
work well since their threads are deep and not
Y Bearing Trucks
tapered. Tapered wood screws are more likely to
work loose. Drywall screws also work but washers
These trucks for the Y
are required under their heads. A potential problem
movement are attached to the
is the washers may overhang the teeth in the rack
top and bottom plates of the Z
and interfere with the pinion.
carriage.
Drill holes in the brackets that are the diameter of
The height of the Z carriage
the screws that will tie the rack to the gantry beam.
depends on the way these Y
Drill smaller pilots into the beam through these
bearing trucks ride on the
new holes in the brackets.
gantry rails. Therefore, the Y
trucks are covered now.
Screw the rail to the gantry. The screws will be
tightened into their final position after the carriage
The trucks are made of 1 x
is installed; do not tighten the screws at this time.
1/8 inch aluminum angle that
supports size 608 bearings,
Thread #8-32 x 3/4 inch machine screws into the Y bearing trucks.
this is the size of skate
threaded holes in the back of the brackets. These
bearings.
screws will be used to adjust the rack to pinion
connection later.

The Y rack can be loosely installed at this time.

Bearings tied to aluminum angle with


bolts. Two trucks needed.

Y Bearing Trucks 21
The bearings are held to the aluminum angle with The countersunk depression can be made by
5/16 x 1 inch bolts. The heads of the bolts are drilling a shallow hole that is the diameter of the
inside the aluminum angle, and nuts are tightened screw head into the corner of the angle. Take care
against the aluminum. not to drill too deeply or the screw head will tear
The bearing is installed next; a second nut is then through the remaining metal.
tightened onto the bolt to hold the bearing into
place. The bearing trucks have to be a fraction shorter
than the width of the top plate so they can move
The angle is cut and drilled as shown below. The freely between the Z side brackets for adjustment.
holes are offset so the heads of the bolts will not The top plate’s width is 6 inches; the trucks’ length
interfere with each other. is 5-15/16 inches.

The heads of the 5/16 inch bolts will extend beyond


the edges of the aluminum angle. This will prevent
the trucks from seating properly on the carriage
plates. Therefore, the bolt heads have to be ground,
sanded, or filed down so they are flush with the
angle’s edges. See image below.

Y truck angle. A belt sander works


Made of 1 x 1/8 inch aluminum angle. well for removing this
material; take care
because the metal will
The holes in the sides are all 7/16 inch from the become hot when power
outside edges of the aluminum angle. sanded. Simply rest the
heads of the nuts in the
The two 11/64 inch holes on the corner edge of the finished truck on the
aluminum are for #8-32 x 1-1/4 inch machine sanding belt.
screws that will tie the truck assemblies to the
carriage’s top and bottom plates. Differently sized nuts or
Bearings can be slightly off
slight offsets in the
center (left bearing) but
holes will cause the cannot ride on edge (right
bearings to not ride the bearing).
rails perfectly. Right
image.

The bearings do not have to ride exactly on their


centers. However they cannot ride so close to their
edges that the bearings dig into the pipe.
Change the hole size, nut size, or use washers to
Attachment screw holes are space the bearings so they ride well. This should
countersunk so screws will not
only be an issue if a differently sized pipe is used
scrape the rails.
for the rails.
These screws cannot scrape against the pipe rail.
Therefore, the holes in the aluminum should be The two bearing trucks can be cut, drilled and
countersunk or filed down so the screw heads are assembled at this time.
recessed into the aluminum.

Y Bearing Trucks 22
Measure Y Trucks

The finished trucks are placed on the The measure can be rounded to the
gantry rails as shown on the right, and nearest 1/16 inch.
the distance between the backs of the The distance on the wooden prototype
aluminum angles is measured. is nearly 10 inches as shown in the
drawing. The aluminum version is
This distance will vary considerably near10-1/2 inches. This measure will
from machine to machine due to the be the height of the back, sides, and
compounding of the slight differences bearings of the Z carriage.
in each of the components.
Take this measurement now to begin
Care should be taken to obtain an work on the Z carriage. The carriage
accurate measurement. This distance section begins on page 33.
determines the size of other
components. However, absolute
precision is not critical; there is around
an 1/8 inch of adjustment possible to
correct for mis-measurement and for Carriage
wear compensation. measure.

Gantry The directions on the following pages are for the


wooden version of the gantry. The aluminum
All of the gantry components can be fabricated in version is similar, but the attachment holes for the
the order presented in this manual, but they cannot end plates to the gantry beam are different and are
be completely assembled until they are placed on not shown in the drawings in the following section.
the X axis. Assembly is addressed in the Gantry
Installation section on page 74. The templates for the aluminum version show their
attachment hole locations.
The Aluminum Notes section on page 132
Gantry End Plates addresses the differences in the layout. Read that
section before beginning work on the aluminum
The end plates for all versions of the gantry are gantry.
similar; each is cut from the same sized slab, and
the holes for the bearing trucks are the same. The The pilot holes in the end plates are used to mark
wooden versions are made of ½ inch plywood, and the matching attachment holes in the gantry beam
the aluminum ones are 3/8 x 6 inch flat bar. ends. Only one hole in each end of the wooden
gantry beam should be drilled initially. Attaching
The left end plate for the X rack and pinion gantry the end plates to the beam with one 1-5/8 inch
has to be notched to give clearance for the X drywall screw will permit the end plates to rotate
stepper. All other end plates are 10-1/4 x 6 inch so the bearings will properly ride the rails. The
rectangles. remaining holes are then drilled into the end of the
gantry beam through the pilot holes that are in the
There are four full sized drawings at the end of this end plates. Drywall screws and glue fasten the end
manual that can be used as templates for both the plates to the wooden beam.
aluminum and wood end plates.

Gantry End Plates 23


Left End Plate, X Pinion and Y Leadscrew

This version uses racks and pinions for the X


movement and a leadscrew for the Y movement.

This left end plate has a section removed to give


the stepper clearance. A stepped hole supports the
pinion’s bearing. Holes are drilled for the
leadscrew and its bearing block’s attachment
screws, and the X stepper bracket’s attachment Gantry end plate for X pinion Installed end plate for X pinion
and Y leadscrew. X stepper and Y leadscrew.
screws. As with all of the end plates, holes are also
end.
drilled for the Y gantry beam attachment and the X
rail bearing assemblies.
The pinion bearing rests in 1-1/8 inch recesses that
surround a 7/8 inch through hole. Use Forstner
bits and drill the 1-1/8 inch recess first. The
bearing is installed from the outside of the gantry
so the pinion will press the bearing into the end
plate.
Front view of completed gantry with X
This plate can be cut and drilled now. pinion and Y leadscrew.
There is a template at the end of the manual.

Left end plate for X rack and pinion, and Y leadscrew.

Gantry 24
Right End Plate, X Pinion and Y Leadscrew

The right end plate supports the


stepper for the Y leadscrew, the
leadscrew bearing, and the X
pinion bearing.
The Y belt is tensioned by an
idler that is secured in a pair of
5/16 inch holes that are drilled
and smoothed. Gantry end plate, Y stepper end for X
pinion and Y leadscrew.
Gantry end plate for X pinion
The leadscrew’s bearing hole in and Y leadscrew.
this end is recessed in the same manner as the
pinion’s bearings. It supports a 7/8 inch OD
bearing for 3/8 inch or smaller leadscrews or it can
be drilled to support a 1-1/8 inch OD bearing for ½
inch leadscrews.
The shoulder of this hole should not be too thin; it
supports the thrust load of the Y leadscrew.
Back view of completed gantry for X pinion and Y
Details on the stepper’s dimensions are on page 29,
leadscrew version.
and there is a template for this plate at the end of
the manual.

This plate can be cut and drilled now.

End plate for X rack and pinion, and Y leadscrew.

Gantry 25
End Plates for X and Y Rack and Pinion

These two end plates are the same as the previous


pair except they lack the holes for the leadscrew
and its stepper and idler.

The plates can be cut and drilled now. There are End plate for rack
templates at the end of this manual. on X and Y. End plate installed.

Left end plate for rack and pinion X and Y axes. End with notch for stepper.

Right end plate for X and Y rack and pinion. The Y stepper is on the carriage.

Gantry 26
Left End Plate for X and Y Leadscrew

Both of the plates for this version are 6 x


10-1/4 inch slabs that are cut from ½ inch
plywood. The X stepper is attached to the
end of the X table rather than to the
gantry, therefore, the end plate can be left
unnotched.
Left end plate for X
The pinion bearings are unnecessary; X and Y leadscrews.
motion is via the leadnuts, which are
attached to the end plates with angle brackets. Left end with bearing block
and leadnut bracket.
Holes for the angle brackets’ mounting screws are drilled
in the end plates along with holes for the Y leadscrew’s
bearing block.
Both of these pairs of holes are tapped for the attaching
screws. The holes are darkened in the drawing below.
Threading the machine screws into these holes makes
adjustments easier.
This plate can be cut and drilled at this time. There is a
template at the end of the manual. Front view of leadscrew X and Y gantry.

Left end plate for X and Y leadscrew axes.

Gantry 27
Right End Plate for X and Y Leadscrew

The right end plate supports the


stepper for the Y leadscrew, the idler
and the leadscrew’s bearing.

The idler tensions the belt, and slides


in a slot made from two 5/16 inch
holes.
Right end plate for X
The leadscrew’s bearing is supported and Y leadscrews.
in a stepped hole. The recess is 7/8 Y leadscrew; stepper end.
inch when a 3/8 inch or smaller leadscrew is used.
This can be 1-1/8 inch for a larger bearing with a
½ inch leadscrew. The inside diameter is ½ inch or
7/8 inch depending on the size of the bearing. The
shoulder left by the inside hole should not be too
thin; the thrust load of the leadscrew is carried by
the remaining material.
Back view of gantry with Y leadscrew stepper.
The layout of the stepper’s holes is addressed in the
following section. There is a template for this plate
at the end of the manual.

This end plate can be cut and drilled at this time.

Right end plate for X and Y leadscrew axes.

Gantry 28
Stepper Dimensions The mounting bolt holes are in a
2-5/8 inch circle.
The details of the NEMA 23
stepper’s hole dimensions are It is easier to drill the 1/4 inch
shown here. hole and use the stepper itself as
The 2-3/8 outside dimension the template. This diagram can
measure will vary between be referred to for the stepper
steppers, but the center hole and layout on all three axes.
mounting hole locations are the There are templates for all
same for all. stepper mounts in the back of
this manual. NEMA 23 stepper dims.

Y Leadscrew Bearing Block


The Y leadscrew’s left bearing is supported by a The bearing does not have to be flush with the
block that is machine-screwed to the end plate. surface of the bearing block, which permits the
shoulder to be thicker.
A block is used at this
end, rather than a This block is held to
recess in the end plate the end plate with #8-
as is done with the 32 x 1-1/4 machine
right end plate, to screws. These are
permit adjustment. threaded into the end
The 1/4 inch plate with their shafts
Y leadscrew bearing block
attachment holes on left end of gantry.
extending outward.
permit the block to be
Bearing block secured
moved on the #8 Tightening the screws
to end-plate.
machine screws for into the end plate
leadscrew alignment. prevents them from freewheeling while the
leadscrew is being aligned. This makes the tuning
The block can be process easier.
made of 3/8 inch thick
kitchen cutting board This block can be cut and drilled now.
plastic. This material Bearing block on end plate
machines easily and for X leadscrew version.
does not tear, as small
pieces of wood can.

This block can be drilled for a 7/8


or 1-1/8 inch OD bearing to match
the bearing at the leadscrew’s right
end. Holes of both sizes are shown
in the dimensioned drawing.
Use Forstner bits; drill the large
recess first. The shoulder left by the Leadscrew
L e a d s cr e w b e a r i n g b l o c k
smaller hole supports the thrust bearing block dimensions. Holes for two sizes of
load of the leadscrew; therefore, this remaining bearings are shown.
stock cannot be too thin.

Gantry Components 29
Belt Tensioner/Idler X Stepper Mount for Rack and Pinion

The idlers are made of skate bearings and ½ inch The stepper for the X rack and pinion axis is
PVC electrical conduit couplers. These are grey supported by a plate that is made of ½ inch
plastic. plywood or 3/8 inch aluminum. This stock should
be firm; the belt’s tension will cause weaker
Idlers are needed for both material to flex.
the pinion and leadscrew
versions of the Y axis. This stepper has to
An idler is also used on remain clear of the
the rack and pinion X gantry’s bearing
axis. assembly and the
carriage. Therefore, this
A longer idler is used on stepper plate is not a
Idler made of bearings
the single long belt and electrical conduit simple rectangle.
version of the leadscrew coupler. Back view of gantry showing
X axis. This longer idler To facilitate layout, the stepper and pulleys.
is addressed in the X leadscrew section. dimensioned drawing is
rotated, and redundant
No idler is required for the Z leadscrew belt. dimensions are shown.
It is easier to start the
The ½ inch PVC layout process with a 3 x
electrical conduit 7 inch piece of stock.
coupler is cut near its The stepper itself can be
center. The inside used for the stepper’s
center stop is left in hole positioning. The
the section that is previous Stepper X stepper mount
used for this idler. Dimension section on behind gantry
Skate bearings or the page 29 can be referred
equiva lent a r e to as well.
pressed into the Cross section of bearings in
coupler with axle bolt
coupler. The darkened holes in the
dimensioned drawing are
A coupler, rather than just the bearings, is used to all 5/16 inch, the two
give a wider surface and larger diameter for the overlapping holes are
belt to ride. This system is better for the life of the smoothed to create a slot
belt and is more forgiving of construction offsets. which allows the idler to
be adjusted.
The tensioner’s axle is a 5/16 x 1-1/2 inch bolt.
Washers are used as spacers to position the idler on A 1-1/8 inch OD bearing X stepper mount.
the axle. The axle is moved in the slot in the end is pressed into a recess in
plate or stepper mount to tension the belt. this plate, just as is done with the end plates’ pinion
bearings. This stepper plate’s bearing does not
These idlers can be made at this time. They will be support a significant thrust load so the shoulder left
installed later. by the smaller inside hole can be thin. The bearing
One is required for the Y axis, and one is needed on should be on the same side of the plate as the larger
the rack and pinion X axis. pulley so the pulley can help to hold the bearing
into place.

Gantry Components 30
A bearing is necessary in this plate; without it, the There is a full sized drawing of this part at the end
pinion axle flexes under the load of the belt’s of this manual. It can be used as a template.
tension. Printing can distort the scale; check the dimensions
The table is designed for a 36 x ½ inch pinion axle. before cutting and drilling.
On the prototype this is a solid steel hardware store
rod. The X stepper mount can be cut and drilled now.

X stepper mount dimensions. Made of ½ inch plywood.

X Bearing Assembly

The gantry rides on skate bearings or


similar that are tied to the end plates with
5/16 x 2-1/2 inch carriage bolts, and 1 x
1/8 inch aluminum angle and flat bar.

A bent section of 1 x 1/8 aluminum flat


bar holds a bearing below the others. This X truck inside view.
bearing is tensioned against the rail by
adjusting the nuts on the carriage bolts.

The heads of the bottom carriage bolts are


notched to clear the vertical 1 inch axle
bolts.

The vertical 1 inch bolt heads fit in the


X truck, end view.
notches that were cut in the bottom edges
X truck outside view. The
of the gantry end plates. carriage bolt is notched
for the bolt head.

Gantry Components 31
Angle Bearing Support 120° Flat Bar
Four sections of 1 x 1/8 inch angle are cut to 1-1/2 The 1 x 1/8 inch flat bar is cut, bent and drilled as
inches long and drilled as shown. Two of the shown.
sections mirror the other two.
Mark the holes before bending the metal, drill the
These four angles can be cut and drilled now. holes after the metal is bent.

To bend the metal, clamp the short


section in a vise with the jaws aligned
with the bend line. Use a hammer or
pliers to bend the bar to the correct
angle. The side view image can be used
as a template for the angle. The scale in
Mirrored the drawing may be off, but the angle is
correct.
Holes in 1 x 1/8 inch angle. Four
needed; two are mirror images.
There is room for variation, and the
way the bearings ride on the rails will
determine the final angle and the
spacing of the bearings.
Attach Bearings Angle side
This bearing assembly can be loosely view.
A bearing is tightened into each of the angles with put together at this time but the gantry
a 5/16 x 1 inch bolt as shown. Two are mirrored. needs to be on the X rails before the final spacing
and tensioning of the bearings is possible.

It may be difficult to position the top bearings so


they ride on the exact center of the rails. As with
the bearings on the other axes, this is not a
problem.
These four angles can be made and loosely
installed now.

Bearing attached to angle. Two are mirrored.

The bearings and angles are then attached to the


end plates with the carriage bolts. The carriage
bolts’ heads may have to be notched to clear the
heads of the 1 inch bolts.

Install these bearings now and attach them to the


end plates. Refer to the drawings on the previous
page for the layout.
120° Angle bracket.
120° angle bracket.
Mark holes before bending;
drill after bending.

Gantry Components 32
Carriage Overview

This axis was designed to be simple and solid while


using hardware store materials. Adjustment
systems are built into the unit, and the parts count
is kept low by combining the components’
functions.

The body of the Z carriage is a basic carcass built


of ½ inch plywood, or 3/8 and ½ inch aluminum
flat bar. These parts include the back, two sides,
the top, and the bottom.

The top plate for the rack version is more complex


since it supports the stepper and pinion assembly Front of carriage for Back of carriage for
for the Y motion. leadscrew Y axis. leadscrew Y axis.

Carriage body Wooden components for rack


components for the Y and pinion Y axis.
leadscrew version.

Carriage for rack and Underside of carriage for


The Z rails are ½ inch ID gas pipe. This has an pinion Y axis. rack and pinion Y axis.
outside diameter of 0.85 inch, nearly 7/8 inch. The
Z bearings are similar to the Y bearings.

Threaded rod ties span the top and bottom plates The router-spindle is held to
and the sides. These are used to tension the the Z rails with 16 gage pipe
bearings against the rails. straps; these are attached to
cradles which are made of
Aluminum angle and flat bar are used for the rails’ aluminum flat bar and wood.
cross ties.

The leadscrew can vary in diameter and type; it is Browse this chapter before
coupled to the stepper with a belt and pulleys. A b eginning w o r k , a nd
3/8 inch diameter 2 start Acme leadscrew was the completely read each section
preferred size in the prototypes. before making parts. Router mount on
Z rails.
The leadscrew’s top bearing is supported by the
top plate, and the bottom bearing is in a block that
is supported by an aluminum angle.

Carriage 33
are only needed on the left side plate of the Y
Sides leadscrew version of the machine. The Y rack
version does not require them. They are tapped to
The two side plates are made accept #8-32 screws. Adjusting the leadnut bracket
of ½ inch plywood that is is easier when these two screws do not freewheel in
ripped to 3 inches wide. Their these holes.
height is the length that was
determined in the Measure Y Except for the two tapped holes, the right side is a
Trucks section on page 23. mirror image of the one shown. It can be cut as
See the Aluminum section on drawn and then flipped, unless the surface of the
page 133 for the aluminum wood is different on the two sides.
version. One side can be cut and drilled, and then be used as
a template for the other side.
Carriage: Top for
The Z bearing trucks, and Z Leadscrew Y Axis
tension rods are attached to Bottom, Sides and Cut and drill the two side plates now.
these panels. Back

The carriage is designed with ½ inch thick wooden


sides. With this thickness, the
top and bottom plates’ edges
will align with the sides.
However it does not matter if
the sides are not ½ inch thick.
The top and bottom will
slightly overhang the sides;
this is not a problem.

The unshaded holes in the


dimensioned drawing are 1/4
inch and will accept #8 and
#10 screws. The holes are
oversized to allow for Tension rod and truck
adjustment. attached to side plate.

The small shaded holes near the


edge are pilot holes for the
screws that tie the sides to the
back. These holes will be used
later as templates for the pilots
that are drilled into the edges of
the back plate.
These holes in the sides are then
enlarged and countersunk for the
screws. At this time the holes are
drilled as small pilots.
Screw holes for the Y
leadnut are circled.
The darkened 9/64 inch holes
They are only needed in
near the middle of the plate are the left side of the
for the screws that hold the Y leadscrew version.
leadnut bracket. Therefore, they
Left side of Z Carriage with screw holes
Carriage 34 for leadnut bracket.
Back Plate Top Plate, Y Leadscrew Version

The back plate is a 5 inch wide slab of ½ inch The top plate is cut from
plywood or aluminum; its height is the same as the ½ inch plywood or 3/8
sides. inch aluminum. It
supports the top Y
bearing truck, the top Z
leadscrew bearing, and
the Z stepper mounting
Carriage top plate for
hardware.
leadscrew Y axis

The front of this top plate


is cut away so the Z pipe rails will clear as they
move up and down in the carriage. See image
below.

Z Sides and Back.

The two holes in the bottom are drilled and tapped


for #8-32 machine screws. The holes are tapped to
prevent the screws from freewheeling during
assembly. This makes adjustments easier.
Top as positioned with the Z pipe
rails.

Carriage Back. The height is the distance that was measured


between the Y bearings. This is around 10 inches. The top plate supports the
The top bearing truck is
attached to the bottom of stepper mounting plate.
the top plate.
The other holes that are in the edges of this plate
will be drilled later. The part is cut and drilled as drawn on the
following page.
This back plate can be cut, and the two holes can
be drilled and tapped now. The bearing hole is drilled for a 7/8 inch OD
bearing. A 22 mm skate bearing will also fit well in
this size hole. Its 8 mm bore is close to 5/16 inch
and works well enough for a 5/16-18 Allthread leadscrew.

Carriage 35
The 7/8 inch hole is drilled can be ground off of the carriage bolts, or the holes
approximately 1/4 inch can be drilled to 13/64 inch and tapped for 1/4-20
into the top plate. The ½ studs which would replace the carriage bolts.
inch hole is then drilled
through the remaining The dashed lines in the dimensioned drawing
stock. It will be difficult to indicate where the back plate attaches to the
align the 7/8 inch hole if bottom of this top plate.
the ½ inch hole is drilled
first. A Forstner bit is used The purpose of the holes is written in the drawing.
for the larger hole. The Z leadscrew’s top The top plate is symmetrical on each side of the 3
bearing is recessed into the inch center line.
top plate.
The depth of the 7/8 inch
hole can vary. There is This top plate can be cut and drilled at this time.
adjustment for the position of the pulley, stepper It is not attached to anything yet.
and belt, so the top of the bearing does not have to
be flush with the surface of the top plate. It is easier to begin the layout with a 6 x 4-7/8 inch
piece of stock.
The shoulders of the ½ inch hole will carry the
weight of the router spindle. Therefore, it is There is a full sized drawing of this plate at the end
important for the 7/8 inch hole to not be too deep, of this manual. It can be used as a template.
or there will not be enough stock below the bearing Printing can distort the scale; check the dimensions
to support it. before cutting and drilling.

A larger bearing could be used here but the


clearance would be tight. One was not tested
on the prototypes because a 3/8 inch leadscrew
worked well, and 3/8 x 7/8 inch bearings are a
standard size.

The ½ inch hole can be enlarged to clear a


larger diameter leadscrew, but there has to be
enough stock left to support the edge of the
bearing.

All other holes in the top plate are 1/4 inch


except for the single pilot hole in the lower
right corner. This smaller hole is for a screw
that ties this plate to the side plate. It is drilled
for a 1-5/8 inch drywall screw.
This hole will be used to mark the position of
its matching hole in the top of the side plate.
This screw helps to prevent the one side plate
from flexing when the Z tension rods are
tightened.

The two carriage bolt holes in the aluminum


version can be completely drilled, or partially
enlarged to 5/16 inch from the bottom side.
This larger diameter will accept the square
neck of the carriage bolts. Likewise, the necks
Top plate for leadscrew Y axis.
Carriage 36
Top Plate, Y Rack and Pinion Version There is a template for this in the back of the
manual.
This plate, like the one in the previous section, There are directions for the alterations required for
supports the top Y bearing truck, the Z leadscrew the aluminum version in the Aluminum section on
bearing and the Z stepper’s mounting hardware. page 134.
This version also supports the Y stepper, the pinion
assembly, and the idler that tensions the Y belt. It The darkest holes are all 1/4 inch. The larger holes
is made of ½ inch plywood or 3/8 inch aluminum. are recesses for bearings and carriage bolt heads.

The 7/8 inch recess for the Z leadscrew bearing


should be drilled deeply enough to keep the bearing
in place, but not so deep as to allow the bearing to
tear through the bottom of this plate. A recess that
is around 1/4 inch deep will work well. The bearing
Top of carriage for Y rack and pinion
can stand proud of the surface.
This top plate is symmetrical along the 3 inch
center line with the exception of the pair of The size of the smaller through-hole in the recess
overlapping 5/16 inch holes that hold the idler near for the Z leadscrew will vary depending on the
the stepper. bearing and leadscrew. This hole is ½ inch in the
drawing.
It is easier to begin layout with a piece of stock that
is 8-1/2 x 6 inches. Most of the dimensions’ origins
are on the left edge.

Carriage top plate for rack and pinion on Y axis.

Carriage 37
The more material that is left in the hole the better 7-1/8 inches are to be marked on the bottom of the
since it supports the weight of the router spindle. plate.
However, the bearing’s center cannot scrape
against the remaining stock. The ½ and 5/8 inch holes inside the 7/8 inch
recesses extend completely through the stock.
The 7/8 inch recess near the center of the plate is Drill the larger recesses first; it is difficult to center
for the pinion’s axle bearing. The bearing will the larger recesses when the smaller holes are
support very little thrust load, and should be flush drilled beforehand. The 7/8 and 3/4 inch recesses
with the surface of this top plate. Therefore, the are drilled with Forstner bits.
remaining 5/8 inch hole’s shoulder does not have to
be as thick as the one for the Z leadscrew bearing.

This center bearing needs to be flush with the


surface of the plate because the pinion’s 36 tooth
pulley has to ride near the plate so the belt will
align with the stepper’s pulley. The shortness of the
stepper’s shaft prevents its 12 tooth pulley from
being extended very far above the top plate.

The 5/8 inch through hole that is inside the 7/8 inch Top plate with stepper, idler, and pulleys.
bearing recess is large to allow clearance for the
3/8 inch bore of the bearing.

Pinion bearing in top plate.

The 3/4 inch recesses on both sides of the bearing Wooden components for rack version.
recess are for the heads of carriage bolts that tie the
pinion’s lower bearing block into place. The The two overlapping 5/16 inch holes near the
carriage bolts can be replaced with standard bolts. stepper hole are for the axle of the idler. The edges
Carriage bolts were chosen because of availability, of the two holes should be smoothed together so the
and the large head keeps them from pulling through idler can be adjusted against the belt in this oval
the wood when tightened. The heads of these two slot.
bolts are underneath the 36 tooth pulley and they
have to be recessed into the top plate to clear the Note that the stepper is turned 45°. This is to allow
pulley. room for the idler’s axle-bolt.

The light area, inside the dashed lines in the The holes for the stepper are for a NEMA 23 face
dimensioned drawing, marks where this plate plate. This has a bolt circle of 2-5/8 inches with a
attaches to the back plate. The lines at 6-5/8 and raised face of 1-1/2 inches in diameter.

Carriage 38
The drawing below is the same as the one shown in when the leadscrew is
the gantry section; it is a detail of the stepper’s installed, and is held in
dimensions. The 2-3/8 inch width value will vary place with #8-32 x 1-1/4
between steppers but the hole positions are fixed. inch screws.
These screws have to be
installed before the Z
bearings are installed. The
screw’s heads are on the
inside of the carriage.

The 1/4 inch slots in this Carriage with leadnut


block are oversized to allow support block.

Dims of NEMA 23 stepper holes. for adjustment on the #8


screws. They are made by
For layout, it is much easier to drill a 1/4 inch hole drilling the three holes and
for the stepper’s shaft in the center of the 1-1/2 cutting away the material
inch circle on the top plate, and then use the near the end, and filing,
stepper itself as a template for the bolt holes. grinding or drilling the
material between the two Leadnut block
Four #8 or #6 machine screws hold the stepper into center holes. with leadnut.
place. The holes should be at least 11/64 inch.
Larger holes can be drilled to compensate for any The positions of the leadnut’s flange holes are not
misalignment. dimensioned in the drawing; the holes in the flange
should be used as templates for the holes in this
After the bolt holes are marked, the 1-1/2 inch hole block.
can be drilled. It can be larger as long as there is
enough stock for the stepper to be tightly attached The large hole through which the leadscrew passes
to the plate. can be tapped for the threads of a ballnut’s flange;
this block replaces the ballnut’s commercially
Cut and drill this plate; no hardware is attached to made flange. The large tap for the threads costs
it at this time. There is a full sized drawing of this about the same as a commercially made flange.
at the end of this manual. It can be used as a
template. Printing can distort the scale; check the Make this block now. There is a template for this
dimensions before cutting and drilling the plate. in the back of this manual. The leadnut can be
attached to it at this time. The nut’s flange may
Note: In some of the following sections the images have to be trimmed to clear the gantry. This
are of the smaller top plate, but they refer to this trimming will be done later.
longer top plate as well.

Y Leadnut Block for Y Leadscrew Version

A variety of leadscrews and nuts can be used to


move the carriage; these include tee nuts, Delrin
nuts, and ballnuts. This block should be drilled to
fit the chosen leadnut.

This block can be made of ½ inch plywood,


Y Leadnut block. The 5/8 and 3/16 inch holes
aluminum, or kitchen cutting board plastic. It for the leadnut will vary with the chosen nut.
should be stiff; thin material will flex. It is attached

Carriage 39
The stepper hole drawing on page 29 gives more
Z Stepper Plate detail about NEMA 23 stepper face dimensions.

This part can be made at any time. It is installed After the holes are marked, the 1-1/2 inch hole can
during the Z leadscrew assembly. This plate is the be drilled. This hole can be larger as long as the
same for all machines. stepper seats well on the plate.

The Z stepper is mounted The edges of the four pairs of 5/16 inch holes
on a plate that is moved to should be smoothed where the holes meet. These
adjust the pulleys’ elongated holes permit the plate to be moved on the
alignment and the belt’s threaded rods and carriage bolts for the belt’s
tension. adjustment.

This plate can be made of The holes can be cleaned with a rat tail file, or the
a variety of materials. drill bit can be rocked in the holes. The holes can
One of the prototypes is appear rough as long as there is room for the studs
made of ½ inch plywood and bolts to move freely.
since this was on hand;
this is thicker than needed.
Other materials that have
proved to work well Z stepper on plate with
include 1/4 inch tempered belt and pulleys.
hardboard, cutting board
plastic, and 16 gage or thicker aluminum. 3/8 inch
aluminum was used in the aluminum version; this
also acted as a heat sink.

The plate is 4 x 2-
5/8 inches.
Note that the front
of the carriage is on
the left in the
dimensioned
drawing.

The 3/16 inch


darkened holes are
for the #8-32 Z axis stepper plate. The front of
screws that tie the the carriage is on the left.
Stepper attachment.
stepper to the plate.
These screw hole There is a template for this plate in the back of this
positions are to the nearest 1/16 inch. The holes are manual. The stepper’s screw holes in the template
oversized to compensate for this rounded value. are not to the nearest 1/16 inch as they are above;
they are positioned true and can be drilled to 11/64
It is easier to use the stepper itself as a template for inch.
these holes. Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center of the This plate can be cut and drilled at this time.
stepper’s 1-1/2 inch hole and insert the stepper’s It can be attached to the stepper now or later.
shaft in the hole. Mark the stepper’s mounting hole The stepper’s wires should exit the stepper toward
locations onto the plate. the back or side of the carriage.

Carriage 40
Z Bottom Plate

The Z bottom plate is the same for both the


leadscrew and rack versions of the carriage.

Back of carriage.

This part is ½ inch plywood or 3/8 inch aluminum


that is cut to 3-1/2 x 6 inches and is drilled as
shown. All holes can be 1/4 inch; the dashed lines
mark the position of the back plate.
Carriage bottom plate. The front of the axis is
The tension rods have a tendency to freewheel as toward the right.
they are being tightened. This can be prevented by
drilling the holes positioned at 3/8 inch from the
left edge to 5/32 inch and tapping them for the #10
tension rods. Alternatively, nuts can be tightened
against both sides of the bottom plate.

Another option is to drill the holes to hold tee nuts.


Tee nut sizes vary; the holes should be drilled for
what is available. The tee nuts should be installed
from the bottom side of the plate.

The rods are fixed into place by tightening nuts


against the bottom of the bottom plate. The threads
in the wood or tee nuts will help to keep the rods
from freewheeling.
Adjustment will then be easier since a wrench will
only be needed at the top of the rods.

Cut and drill this bottom plate now. Nothing more


is done to it at this time. There is a template at the
back of the manual. Back view of carriage. Bottom
plate holds trucks and tension
rods.

Carriage 41
Align the edges and drill the pilot holes. The holes
Attach Sides to Back into the back should be the root diameter of the
attaching screws, or 9/64 inch and tapped for the
The two wooden sides are screwed to the back #8-32 machine screws.
plate with four screws each. The screws in the two
top holes also hold the braces that tie the top to the After the pilots are drilled into the back plate, the
sides. Right image. holes in the sides can be enlarged and countersunk
as needed for the screws.
These braces are
unnecessary in the The top two holes hold the braces; they do not need
aluminum version. to be countersunk.

The top, bottom and back Finish washers can be used in place of
edges of the sides are flush countersinking, or round head screws with flat
with the edges of the back washers can be used.
plate.
After the pilots are drilled and the sides’ holes are
The sides are used as enlarged, spread glue along the matching wood
Braces tie top to sides.
templates for the matching surfaces and screw the sides to the back.
Shown for reference; the
pilot holes that are drilled braces are not installed at
into the edges of the back this time. Only three screws are used per side at this time.
plate. One of the screws that will hold the braces can be
left out. The single screw is used now for clamping
Be sure that the sides are installed right-side-up as the glue joint. It will be removed and reinstalled
compared to the back plate. when the braces are installed.
The back plate has two holes near its bottom edge.

The side with the leadnut Note: The Z rails are tensioned against their
bracket holes is on the left bearings by flexing the sides of the carriage
side of the carriage. together. Though the wood can be bent a fair
This is placed on this side amount for this future adjustment, care should be
to make it easier to adjust taken at this time to square the sides to the back.
the leadnut later. The
carriage has to be near the
stepper end of the gantry The two Y leadnut bracket screws can also be
for the leadnut adjustment. tightened to the side plate now.
Were the leadnut bracket on These machine screws are #8-32 x 1-1/4 inch.
the other side of the Their heads are inside the carriage with their
carriage, the gantry end threads projecting outside.
Holes for the Y leadnut
plate would block wrench bracket (circled) are in
access. the left side. These Their holes are circled in the left image.
holes are unnecessary in
The leadnut bracket holes the Y rack and pinion
They can be put in later but they have to be
version.
are irrelevant on the rack installed before the Z bearing truck is installed.
and pinion Y axis version.

The wood sides are held to the back with 1-5/8 inch The sides can be attached to the back at this time.
drywall screws or similar. The aluminum sides use
#8-32 x 1 inch machine screws.

Carriage 42
The top and bottom plates are used as templates to
Studs in Back Plate, Overview mark the positions of the holes in the back plate.

The top and bottom plates are attached to the back The holes in the back plate’s edges should be
plate with 1/4 inch threaded rod studs that are centered so the studs will have a better grip in the
screwed and glued into the edges of the back plate. wood.
The top studs also support the Z stepper’s plate.
It is unlikely that the top or bottom plates will fit
perfectly over the studs once the studs are glued
into place. Even when the holes are well placed the
studs tend to offset as they are tightened into the
back plate.
The matching holes in the top and bottom plates
can be enlarged to compensate for this
misalignment.

Section view of stepper and


top plate attachment.

These studs counter the load of the tension rods


and may strip out of the wooden back plate if they
are only threaded into the wood; therefore, the
studs are also glued into place. Glue is unnecessary Section view of the top plate tied to back
in the aluminum version, though Loctite is plate
recommended.

The glue used for holding the studs will have to


cure before the plates can be tightened into place.
This will delay work depending on the type of glue
used, but other parts can be built during the wait.
Epoxy was used on the prototypes; it required
overnight curing.

Basic 1/4-20 taps can thread around 1-1/4 inch


deep; therefore, the drilled holes in the back plate
should be at least 1-1/4 inch deep to take full
advantage of the tap. Bottom plate tied to back plate
Half inch deep holes work well with the aluminum
back plate.

Details for the stud installation are next.

Carriage 43
Stud Installation

Make sure the carriage is right side up. For


reference, there are two holes in the bottom center
of the back plate’s face.
The bottom aligns with the sides.
Align the top plate with the back plate. The match-
lines are the dashed lines in the dimensioned
drawings for both versions of the top plates. Drill 13/64 inch holes into the top and bottom
edges of the back plate where the marks were just
made.

Tap these holes in the back plate for 1/4-20 studs.

Cut two sections of 1/4-20 threaded rod to 3-3/4


The top overhangs the front of the back inches long and two to 2-1/4 inch long. These
plate, and is flush with the sides. lengths add up to 12 inches. This is the only 1/4
inch rod used in the wooden machine except for the
The sides of the top should align with the outsides optional tie-down clamps shown on the website.
of the side plates. If the sides are not exactly ½
inch thick the alignment will not be perfect. This is The studs for the aluminum back plate are each 3/4
not a problem. Center the top plate so the offsets inch shorter. Excess material can be removed after
are the same on both sides. the machine is completed; the lengths are not
critical.
Use the top plate as a template for the two holes
that match the top edge of the back plate, and mark Spread epoxy glue or similar onto the threads on
the holes’ locations onto the back plate’s top edge. one end of each stud. Cover around an inch of the
threads.
Do the same for the bottom plate. The front of the Loctite can be used with the aluminum back plate;
bottom plate is flush with the front of the back otherwise the studs may vibrate free over time.
plate. Mark the holes’ positions in the bottom edge
of the back plate. Tighten the studs into the back plate. Vise Grips or
a wrench on two nuts that are locked against each
other can be used to tighten the studs. Do not strip
the threads with the Vise Grips, and do not over
tighten the studs. The wood may split or its threads
may strip when over-tightened.

The leftover glue is cleaned from the threads, and


Z bottom plate aligns with the
the carriage is set aside while the glue cures.
front of the back plate.
These four studs can be installed at this time.

Carriage 44
Z Side Braces The holes in the ends of the braces mirror each
other from end to end.
Braces are installed on each side of the wooden top
plate to prevent it from flexing during aggressive The top holes are 3/16 inch from the top edge, and
cuts. the bottom holes are 1/4 inch from the bottom edge.
These braces are unnecessary on the aluminum
carriage. The bottom holes are 5/8 inch from the long ends.
The top holes are 1-1/8 inch from the long ends,
The parts and and 1/8 inch from the short top ends.
installation are the same
for the rack and pinion, Cross check that the distances between the holes
and leadscrew versions match the ones shown.
of the carriage.
Drill holes that match the screws’ diameter. It is
These braces are made best for the screws to fit snugly in the holes.
of 1 x 1/8 inch aluminum Drywall screws work well; 1-5/8 inch screws were
flat bar that is cut to 3- used in the prototypes’ sides, and 1-1/8 inch screws
11/16 inches long. were used in the top.

The braces were The braces are symmetrical, so two identical copies
Side brace tying the can be made without mirroring them.
designed on a 1/16 inch top to the side.
grid to make the
dimensions manageable. One can be used as a template for the second one.

Start with a piece of 1 inch flat bar that is 3-11/16 The two pieces can be cut from a 6-1/2 inch long
inches long. piece of stock as shown below.
The angled ends are 45 degrees; measure 1 inch
from each end to position the top edge and the 45° Cut and drill two of these braces now.
angles.
Use a 45° combo square if available.

Side brace made of 1 x 1/8 aluminum flat bar. Two needed.

Two braces cut from 6-1/2 inch length.

Carriage 45
Install Top Install Braces

Both versions of the top plate are installed the same The braces are unnecessary with the aluminum
way. carriage.
These directions are written for one side. Once one
The aluminum braces side of the carriage is completed, repeat the steps
are installed for the other side.
immediately after the
wood top plate is Remove the screw that is in the top hole in the side
installed so they can of the side plate. This is the screw that was
hold the top true while temporarily installed as a clamping screw for the
the wood glue cures. glue.

Slide the top plate over Align an aluminum side brace with the top holes in
the studs; enlarge the the side plate, and align the top 45° angle of the
two holes in the top aluminum so it is flush or parallel with the top edge
plate as needed. of the top plate. The position will vary due to the
The top plate should Pilot hole for side screw. accumulation of minor offsets.
be square with the
back plate from both
the top and side.

Spread glue along


the mating wood
surfaces and tighten
nuts with washers Brace parallel Brace flush with top.
on the studs to with top.
secure the top plate
into place. Check for The holes in the aluminum may not exactly match
square while the holes in the side.
tightening. Enlarge the holes in the aluminum as needed so the
Pilot hole above side. screws can be tightened into their holes while the
Use the pilot hole in brace remains aligned with the top plate.
the top plate as a guide to drill a pilot in the top
of the left side plate. See drawings above. The holes in the brace can be countersunk for the
screws, or finish washers can be used.
Enlarge and countersink the pilot hole in the top
plate as needed and drive a 1-5/8 inch drywall Tighten the two side screws into the brace and side.
screw, or similar, into the hole and tighten the top
to the side plate. Use a #8-32 x 1 inch screw in a Use the top holes in the brace to position and drill
tapped 9/64 inch hole in the aluminum version. the pilot holes into the top plate.

This screw helps to hold this one side true as the Check that the top plate is square with the back
tension rods are adjusted. It also helps to prevent plate before drilling.
the sides from racking under heavy cutting loads.
Tighten the screws into the top plate to tie the
Install the top plate now. brace into place.

Carriage 46
The prototypes use 1-5/8 and 1-1/8 inch drywall
screws. The shorter screws are for the top plate
connection.

Note: Because of the variation in the plywood’s


thickness, the brace may not sit flat as it spans the
side and top plate. This is usually not a problem.
The screws will pull the brace into place. If the gap
is larger, washers can be used as shims underneath
the brace’s screw holes so the brace will sit flat.
Notching the top plate is an option but it will also
require removing some of the material from the The carriage bolts in the top plate
bearing truck’s aluminum angle. are in line with the studs.

Install both braces at this time.

Carriage Bolts in Top Plate

Two 1/4-20 x 2-1/2 inch carriage bolts are


installed in the top plate; they support the back of
the stepper plate.

These bolts have to be installed before the top


bearing truck can be installed since their heads are
under the truck’s aluminum angle.

The bolts can also be flat head or standard bolts


Carriage bolts and studs align.
that are countersunk into the top plate. Studs with
tee nuts will work as well.

For the aluminum top plate, the holes in the top


plate will have to be enlarged to accept the square
necks of the carriage bolts, or the necks can be
ground off. Also, as mentioned in the Top Plate
section, the holes can be drilled to 13/64 and
tapped for 1/4-20 inch studs.

The heads of the carriage bolts cannot protrude too


far from the top plate or they will interfere with the
bearing truck.

The bolts need to be threaded their entire length so


they can be tightened with nuts to the top plate as
shown in the drawings.

Install these two carriage bolts now. Firmly tighten


the nuts with washers against the top plate. Stepper and truck attachment.

Carriage 47
The bottom truck is also installed, but the bottom
Install Bottom plate is loosely attached to the back plate.

The bottom plate is installed the same way as the Both trucks are attached by the same method.
top is, but it is not tightened or glued into place.
The bottom bearing truck has to swivel underneath The trucks are tied to the plates with #8-32 x 1-1/4
the gantry’s bottom rail when the carriage is put on inch machine screws. The heads of the screws are
the gantry, so this plate must remain loose for now. recessed in the aluminum angles.

The front edge of the bottom plate should be flush The shafts extend through the holes beside the
with the face of the back plate. The plate should be carriage bolt holes in the top plate, and the
square as viewed from the bottom. It will need to similarly placed holes in the bottom plate.
hinge as viewed from the side so it can pull the
bearings into the gantry rails. Washers are used with the nuts. There is play at
this junction for adjustment.

The trucks are positioned with their end bearings


toward the open back of the carriage. This allows
more clearance around the tension rods.
The tension rods will be installed after the carriage
Front of bottom is flush with Wooden bottom plate is
the front of the back plate.
is on the gantry; the rods are shown below for
flush with the sides.
reference.
This plate can be loosely installed at this time; the
attachment holes can be enlarged for the studs if
needed.

Attaching the plate now will permit the carriage to


sit on its back edges, which can make other
carriage work easier.
Truck with tension rods. The
bearings that are on the ends of the
truck are away from the back plate.
Install Bearing Trucks

The top bearing truck can be installed after the


stepper plate’s supporting carriage bolts are
tightened into place.

The bottom truck is also positioned


so its back bearings are nearer the
truck’s ends.

The aluminum side braces should not pinch the top


truck. File down the truck ends if needed. The
trucks should be able to move so they can be
adjusted on the rails.
Truck attached to top plate.
Carriage bolts and side braces Loosely install the top and bottom trucks. Check
are not shown.
that the screw heads do not scrape the gantry pipe
rails.

Carriage 48
Z Leadscrew Bottom Bearing Support Z Bottom Bearing Bracket

These parts can be made at any time, but they need This bracket is made of 1 x 1/8 aluminum angle
to be in place to determine the Z rail measurement. because this is an easily found size. The bearing
block overhangs the edge of this piece; the block is
This bearing support assembly is made of 1 x 1/8 solid enough for this to not be a problem.
inch aluminum angle and kitchen cutting board
plastic, or similar. This part is cut and drilled as shown below.
Plastic is used because it will not tear or split as
wood will, and it is easier to work with than thick
metal.

For clarity, the sides and bottom are not shown in


the drawing below.
The holes in the back of the aluminum angle are
oversized to allow for adjustment.

Leadscrew bottom bearing angle bracket.


The 9/64 inch holes are tapped for #8-32
screws.

The Z leadscrew bearing


assembly against the back plate.
The two 9/64 inch holes are tapped for #8-32 x
3/4 inch machine screws.
These screws hold the bearing block into place as
shown in the left section drawing.
The screws are tightly threaded into the aluminum
angle from the inside of the angle. This will make
it easier to adjust the bearing block’s position since
access to the heads of these machine screws will be
obstructed later.

Cut, drill and tap this bracket now. Tightly screw


the two 3/4 inch screws into place. Loctite can be
used here.

Attach the bracket to the back plate with #8-32 x


Cross section view of the 1 inch screws and washers as shown on the left.
Z leadscrew bearing support. Tighten the bracket into place so it is centered on
the back plate and so the bottom edge is parallel
An integral bearing support like the one on the top with the bottom of the back and bottom plate. Nuts
plate would not work in this location. Moving the are threaded onto these screws to lock them into
bottom plate to adjust the Y axis bearings would place. They will be permanently tightened later.
also alter the bearing adjustment for the Z This angle will overhang the back plate by around
leadscrew. Therefore, this separate bearing block 1/4 inch.
assembly is necessary. This bracket may have to be adjusted later when
the leadscrew is installed.

Carriage 49
Z Leadscrew Bearing Block

This bearing block is made of 3/8 inch thick


kitchen cutting board plastic. The material
machines well and is relatively stiff and stable.

The product is sold in the kitchenware section of


department stores and comes in a variety of
thicknesses and colors. In this shop the cheapest
cutting boards have worked as well as the brand Bearing block dimensions. It is made of 3/8
name ones. The thickness of the product is the inch thick stock. The 1/4 inch holes in this
important factor. The stock has to be able to block are oversized to permit alignment.
support the bearing without the shoulder tearing
through.
The 7/8 inch hole is around 1/4 inch deep. The
shoulder that remains in the plastic has to support
the thrust load that the leadscrew places on the
bearing, so the shoulder should not be too thin.

The 5/8 inch through hole in the block can be


smaller, but it should be no larger. A larger hole
Bearing block for the bottom will not support the bearing well, and it can snag
of the Z leadscrew. It is
shown upside-down in this
on the 5/8 inch hole in the aluminum bracket.
image.
Cut and drill this part now. It can be set aside until
This block is sized for a bearing with an outside the leadscrew is installed.
diameter of 7/8 inch. As mentioned previously this
is a standard size for 5/16 and 3/8 inch bore
bearings. This size hole also supports a 608 skate Sequence Note
bearing well enough. The outside diameter of skate
bearings is 22 mm. At this time the carriage is glued together and has
the Y trucks installed. The stepper’s plate is made
A Forstner bit is used to drill the 7/8 inch hole. but not attached to the carriage. The stepper can be
This larger recess should be drilled first; alignment attached to its plate.
of the holes will be difficult when the smaller hole
is drilled first. The Z rail and bearing assembly and the Z
leadscrew can be installed next for the version that
Forstner bits can be mis-sized by the manufacturer; uses a leadscrew to move the carriage on the
some are significantly oversized. Tape can be gantry. For this version, the next section of the
wrapped around the bearing to hold it securely manual for the Y pinion is ignored. Skip to page
should the hole be too large for a tight fit. 54.
For machines that use a rack and pinion to move
the carriage on the gantry, proceed to the section
that begins on the next page. The carriage has to be
on the gantry to complete the rack and pinion
assembly, but the components can be made and
loosely installed beforehand.

Carriage 50
Rack and Pinion, Z Top Plate
Overview

The following drawings are of the Y pinion system;


other carriage parts are not shown for clarity.

These components can only be adjusted after the


carriage is on the gantry, and the gantry is on the X
rails. However, it is easier to loosely install these Top plate with the recesses for the pinion
bearing and the carriage bolts.
components while the carriage is off of the gantry.

These pinion components should be in place before


the Z stepper is installed; the 36 tooth pulley is
underneath the Z stepper’s plate as shown below.

Pinion components on the top plate.


No other components are shown for clarity.

The top plate assembly with


both Y and Z steppers.

The Y pinion components on the


The pinion system consists of the stepper with a 12 carriage’s top plate.
tooth pulley. This turns a 36 tooth pulley which is
attached to the pinion’s axle. The pinion has 15
teeth. The lower bearing is supported by a bearing block
that is held into place with 5/16-18 carriage bolts.
The belt that ties the pulleys together is tensioned
with a shop-made idler. The heads of the carriage bolts are also recessed in
the top plate below the 36 tooth pulley.
The pinion’s axle rotates in two bearings. The top
bearing is pressed into the recess in the top plate Two pairs of 3/8 inch nuts with washers serve as
that is directly below the 36 tooth pulley. spacers on the 5/16 inch carriage bolts.
These nuts and washers are between the top plate
and the bearing block; the number of washers will
vary from machine to machine.

Rack and Pinion Carriage 51


The oversized nuts make it easier to tension all of
the pinion’s axle components together without Pinion Bearing Block
having to tighten a series of smaller nuts.
The pinion’s bottom bearing block is made of
The bearings are positioned so they are held in plastic or metal. Material from a 3/8 inch thick
place by the pinion and the 36 tooth pulley. One kitchen cutting board works well for this; wood
bearing abuts the pinion and the other abuts the tends to loosen over time. The stock should be
pulley. Image below. thick enough for the bearing to rest against a
shoulder in the block. The bearing’s 7/8 inch hole
cannot extend all of the way through the block.

Y pinion bearing block. It is shown


upside-down in this drawing.

The pinion axle with its bearings. This section is shown The 7/8 inch diameter recess for the bearing is
as though viewed through the stepper. drilled with a Forstner bit as is done for the bearing
recesses in the top plate and Z bottom bearing
block. Around 1/8 inch of shoulder should be left
between the 7/8 and 5/8 inch holes. It is best for the
bearing to be flush with the bottom of the block.
The washers on the carriage bolts may overlap the
bearing.

Side view of pinion components.


Y pinion bearing block dims. The bearing
recess is off center; the narrower edge
faces the rack.

Note that the holes in the bearing block are not


centered. The clearance between the gantry’s top
rail and this block is close, so the holes are offset
toward one long edge.

This block tensions the pinion against the rack, so


it needs to be sturdy, especially on the side that is
away from the rack.
Pinion in rack
This block can be cut and drilled at this time.

Rack and Pinion Carriage 52


Install the pinion so its bottom is flush with the end
Pinion Axle of the axle. Tighten a set screw enough to hold the
pinion in place. The pinion may have to be re-
The pinion’s axle is made of a 3/8 inch rod or bolt positioned later.
that is cut to 3-5/8 inches. There should be no bolt
threads on the shaft when a bolt is cut to length; the Press the bearing block over the top of the bearing.
rod should fit tightly in the bearings. It is
worthwhile to have the bearings on hand when Insert two 5/16-18 x 2 inch carriage bolts into the
purchasing this axle’s material. Hardware store top plate’s recesses that are next to the bearing
components vary in diameter even though they recess. See page 134 for the aluminum version.
have the same nominal dimensions. A loose fit will A portion of the carriage bolts’ heads may have to
contribute to backlash. be ground down so the bolts will not interfere with
the top bearing. Use the top bearing to check for fit
Foil tape can be used to shim an undersized axle. but do not press the bearing deeply into its recess;
This tape is sold as commercial quality duct the bearing will have to be slid over the axle later.
insulation tape.
Slide a washer, two 3/8 inch nuts and another
The axle can also be distorted with a series of washer onto each carriage bolt.
indentations made with a center punch. Loctite can
be used to help firm the connection between the Slide the bearing block with its bearing and axle
bearing and the axle after parts are in position. onto the carriage bolts.

The bearing block should be oriented with the


bearing near the gantry pipe rail. The thicker
portion of the block should be toward the back of
the top plate. Below image.

Install axle, bearing block, and


carriage bolts with nuts and washers.

Using epoxy glue as a filler is not recommended.


The bearing is unlikely to set-up exactly square to Bearing block with thicker side away from rail.
the axle and it will wobble as the axle turns. Bearing is close to rail.

The axle can be cut to 3-5/8 inches long at this Loosely install the 5/16 inch nuts with washers to
time. hold the larger nuts and bearing block into place.

Press the top bearing over the axle and into its
Assembly recess in the top plate.
This can be done with the carriage off of the
This is all that can be done with the carriage off of
gantry, but the carriage has to be on the gantry
the gantry.
before these parts are finally tightened into place.
It is easier to install the Z rails with the carriage off
The bottom bearing is installed on the axle first.
of the gantry; therefore, the Z rails are covered
Press the axle into the 7/8 inch OD 3/8 inch bore
next.
bearing. Leave an inch for the pinion extending
beyond the bottom of the bearing.

Rack and Pinion Carriage 53


Z Rails

The Z rail system is similar to the gantry’s rail


system; it also uses 608 bearings tied to aluminum
angle with 1 inch bolts.

The two rails are tied together with aluminum


angle cross ties; the leadnut is attached to one of
the ties.
The tension rods are above
Construction begins with the Z bearing trucks; the the top bearings and below Tension rods’
sizes of the other components are determined by the bottom back bearings. positions.
the way the rails ride in these bearings.
The holes for the #8 machine screws which tie the
trucks to the side plates are positioned to match the
existing holes in the side plates.
Z Bearing Trucks
As with the Y trucks, the heads of the 5/16-18
The Z bearings are similar to the
bearing axle bolts will have to be filed, ground or
Y bearings, but they are made
sanded flush with the backs of the angles so they
from 3/4 inch angle rather than 1
will rest flat against the side plates.
inch angle. This is done so the
rails will sit closer to the sides of
The construction directions from the Y axis trucks
the carriage, which gives more
on page 21 apply to these trucks as well.
clearance for the Z leadnut
assembly.
After the trucks are completed, they are attached to
the sides of the Z carriage with four #8-32 x 1-1/4
The two aluminum angles are cut
inch machine screws.
to the same height as the Z sides,
and they are drilled as shown. One
The endmost bearings are on the bottom outside
angle mirrors the other.
and top inside.
The bearings are offset to allow
clearance for the tension rods.
The trucks are attached fairly firmly to the sides so
measurements can be taken for the cross ties. Final
The top tension rod will be above Z rails with
alignment will be done after the carriage is on the
the top outside bearings. The bearing trucks.
gantry.
bottom tension rod will be below
the bottom inside bearings.

Aluminum angle for Z trucks. Two required; They mirror each other.

Carriage 54
Cut, drill, assemble and install these bearing trucks
at this time. Remember, the two units are mirror Leadnut Travel
images of each other.
The leadnut’s travel distance is restricted by the
The Y leadnut block screws have to be in place on bearings on each end of the leadscrew. The travel
the left side of the carriage before the left bearing is also decreased by the size of the leadnut itself.
truck can be installed. The left truck covers one of See the drawing below.
these holes. The two screws for the leadnut block
are #8-32 x 1-1/4 inch.

Z Rails

The Z rails are made of ½


inch ID (Inside Diameter) gas
pipe; this has an outside
diameter of a little less than
7/8 inch.

The pipes are drilled and


tapped for #8-32 x ½ inch
screws which secure 1 inch
aluminum angle cross ties to
the pipes.
Z rails with cross
ties and router
mount.
Maximum leadnut travel.

On the wood prototypes the distance between the


bearing supports is close to 10 inches.

The length of the leadnut is around an inch.


Therefore, the maximum travel is 9 inches. The
aluminum gantry version is ½ inch longer.
Tie screwed to pipes.

Rails and Bearing Spacing


Determine Rail Length
The minimum length of the rails is also based on
The length of the rails is defined by the distance the the distance between the top and bottom bearings.
leadnut can travel, and the space between the top This length of pipe is lost; it is needed simply to
and bottom truck bearings. span the gap between the bearings.

These two values are usually the same because The bearing trucks are the same length as the back
they depend on the height of the carriage. However and side plates. On the wood prototype this is
the derivation is addressed here for those who are around 10 inches and on the aluminum version it is
building machines that stray from these plans. near 10-1/2 inches.

Carriage 55
The axles of the top and bottom bearings are inset
½ inch from the ends of the truck angle, so the Note: Pipes of 36 inches are usually threaded at
axles and centers of the bearings are 9 inches apart each end. When cut in half for the rails, the
for the wood and 9-1/2 inches for the aluminum. threaded ends can be positioned at the bottom of
Therefore, a minimum of 9 (or 9-1/2) inches of the axis. This way the bearings will only ride on
rail is required to compensate for the distance the threads when the axis is fully retracted.
between the bearings. Also note that drilling and tapping the threaded
section can be challenging.

Making the pipes longer will allow more leeway in


construction, and an extra couple of inches will not
affect performance.
Image below: The rails can go Shorter pipes will also work, but they will not take
no lower without falling off of full advantage of the leadnut’s travel.
the top back bearings.

Cut and Drill Pipes

The pipes are cut to the length that was determined


in the previous sections.

After the pipes are cut, drill one hole in each end of
the two pipe rails. The holes are 9/64 inch in
diameter and are tapped for #8-32 machine screws.
These holes are 5/16 inch from the ends of the
rails. See image on the following page.

The holes in each pipe should be in line with each


The rails can go no other so the screws will project from the pipes in
higher without falling the same direction.
off of the bottom front
bearings.
It is easier to drill all of the remaining holes in the
pipes after the end ties have been installed.

Cut the pipes, drill and tap the single hole in each
end at this time.

This means that 9 inches of rail length has to be The cross ties will be made next.
added to the desired travel distance of the leadnut.

The leadnut’s travel is also 9 inches. This gives a


total of 18 inches of minimum rail length.
This will be near 19 inches for the aluminum
version.

This 18 inches, conveniently, is one half of a 36


inch length of pipe, which is frequently an off the
shelf size.

Carriage 56
The drawing below is a guide and should not be
copied without first checking the dimensions as Cross Ties Overview
explained in the following sections.
It is easier to use the components themselves to The cross ties are made of 1 x 1/8 inch aluminum
mark the hole locations than it is to measure the angle and flat bar. Three are made of angle rather
distances on the pipes. than flat bar because flat bar will flex under the
loads. However one tie is made of flat bar to allow
clearance for the router-spindle.

Cross tie on rails as viewed with the


top and bottom plates removed.

The corners of the angles are removed to allow


clearance for the Z bearings. The fit is close as
shown. Removing the corners from all of the ties
also allows the rail assembly to be completely
removed from the carriage without the need to
remove the bearings as well. This greatly simplifies
the construction process.

As shown below, the ties and rails pass closely to


the top plate’s projection for the Z bearing and
pulley.

The cross tie passes close to the


top plate and the bearings.

Some of the top plate’s stock can be removed if the


parts collide.
Hole locations in rails drilled to 9/64 and This should only be necessary with components
tapped for #8-32 screws. Hole locations are that are sized differently from those specified. The
approximate and will vary with each bearings and rails can also be moved farther from
machine.
the back plate to gain more clearance.

Carriage 57
All of the ties are attached to the rails with two
screws in each end. The pairs of screws keep the Tie Length
rails from racking. A plate could be used instead of
the ties, but wide aluminum stock is usually not a The length of the ties depends on the distance
hardware store item. between the bearings.
This will vary from the prototypes due to the
The finished ties are shown below, the images are accumulation of minor offsets. Therefore, the
for reference and should not be cut or drilled yet. dimensions have to be determined as follows.
The dimensions will vary; their derivation is
addressed next.
Note: The #8 machine screws that hold the Z
bearing trucks into the carriage’s sides should be
fairly tight at this time; they can be loosened later
for adjustments.

Measure the distance between the bearings. See


image below. This measure on the prototype was
Top tie with approximate dimensions. rounded up to 3-1/8 inches. Values can be rounded
up to the nearest 1/16 inch.

Measure both the top and bottom bearings sets, use


the largest value.
The tension rods will pull the components together
later, so absolute precision is unnecessary.

The mid-section tie. The slot is for the


leadnut connection.

Measure the distance between the bearings. The


top plate is not shown for clarity. It should be in
place at this time of construction.

The ties will be the length


that was just measured,
Flat bar tie. It supports the top of less 1/16 inch. This will
the router mount. give 1/32 inch on each
end of the ties for
clearance around the
bearings. The ties can be
filed later if they rub the
bearings.
The machine screws
It is important for the ties should be as close as
to be as long as possible. possible to the edges of
the ties. They should pull
The heads of the machine the ties straight toward
Bottom Tie. The holes near the center screws should seat tightly the center of the pipe.
are for the router mount.

Carriage 58
against the ties with no, or just a fraction of
overhang on the edges. Hole Placement
The 1 x 1/8 inch angle stock is cut into three cross
ties. The one flat bar tie is cut from 1 x 1/8 flat The holes in the ends of the ties must align with the
stock. See the Aluminum Note on page 122 before centers of the rails so the screws will pull the ties
cutting these pieces; it is possible to use other straight into the rails. Also, the heads of the screws
stock so there will be less material leftover. must be pulled flat against the surface of the ties.

The three angle ties and the one flat tie can be cut
to length now. Their length is the distance between
the bearings less 1/16 inch.

Remove Tie Corners


Measure distance between pipe centers.
The distance will vary from the one shown.
The angle ties’ corners can be cut off once the ties
are cut to length.
Only the one leg’s corners are cut; the leg that will Find the distance between the rails’ centers. Press
attach to the rails is not cut. See images below. the rails into the bearings and measure the center
The cut angle is 45 degrees. distance. See above image.

This distance, the 2-3/4 inches in the drawing, is


the distance apart that the centers of the holes in
the ties should be. Figures below.

Do not cut the ties like this.


Do not bevel the surface.

Top cross tie. The circled dimension


is a fraction less than 3/16 inch.

Cut the ties like this, with the


surface edges square.
The 45° angle cuts do not have to be exact. The
metal is cut to allow clearance around the bearings.
As shown in the drawings there is room for
variation. The corners could be notched rather than
cut at an angle. Bottom cross tie.

Cut off the corners of the legs of all three ties at


this time.

Carriage 59
Transfer this measure to the ties and mark the holes Once the fit is correct, drill
so their distance from the edges of the tie is equal. the remaining holes in the top
This edge distance shown in the drawings is 3/16 and bottom ties, and drill the
inch. This is a rounded value, it is actually a matching holes in the rails
fraction less. The 2-3/4 inch measure is the while the ties are screwed in
primary measure; the edge distance will be adjusted place on the rails. This
to fit. process is addressed in the
following section.
Drill holes in the corners of the top and bottom ties
as shown in the bottom right images on the The images of the ties in the
previous page. Cross Tie Overview section
on page 58 show the
Also drill the two other holes in the face of the approximate positions of all
bottom tie. These two holes are equidistant from of the end holes in the ties.
the ends of the tie, and should be 1-1/4 inch apart. These remaining holes should
match the final actual position
The matching holes in the ends of the pipes have of the rails and ties, not the
already been drilled and tapped. measured dimensions in the
drawings.

Note: Once completed, the rail structure is solid; With care they can be aligned
however, it can be challenging to work with all of by eye. Again, the holes
the loose parts. should be positioned so the
screws will pull toward the
To ease construction, it is easier to install the top center of the rails.
and bottom ties first, and to hold them in place with
only one screw in each end. See image in right
column.
The other screws and ties can then be positioned Top and bottom ties
and attached with the top and bottom ties holding held in place with two
the assembly together. screws each.

Measure and drill the holes in the two ties as just Drill Holes in Ties and Pipes
described.
With the ties attached to the rails, and the rails
square to the ties, drill 9/64 inch holes all of the
Attach Ties to Rails way through both the ties and rails. Enlarge the
holes in the ties to 11/64 inch. Take care not to
Screw the ties to the pipes with #8-32 x ½ inch drill into the rails.
screws. Align the pipes so they are square with the
ties, and tighten the assembly together. Tap the holes in the rails; the ties are left in place
for this work. The tap will go through the
Slide the rails into the bearings and check that they larger holes in the ties.
fit well. A small amount of looseness or tension is
not a problem. Attach the top and bottom ties firmly to the rails at
If there is over 1/16 inch of play, enlarge the screw this time. Tighten all four screws per tie into place.
holes in the ties as needed, and re-tighten and re-
test for fit.

Carriage 60
Leadnut Cross Tie Leadnut Support Bar

The leadnut is attached to the axis with a cross tie The leadnut is attached to a piece of 1 x 1/8 inch
and a piece of 1 x 1/8 inch flat bar. flat bar; the flat bar is connected to the leadnut
cross tie.

Looking down onto the


l eadnut as sembly. A Looking up at the leadnut.
machine screw, and a nut The leadnut’s flange is
and washer, tie the flat bar below the flat bar.
to a slot in the cross tie.
The cross tie is similar to the top and bottom ties The flat bar can be thicker; 1/8 inch stock was
with the addition of a slot in one leg which permits used since it is a hardware store item, and this
adjustment of the leadnut’s position. same sized stock is used for other components.

The flat bar is 2-3/8 inches long, and the center of


the leadnut hole is 9/16 inch from one end and 1-
13/16 inches from the other. These two holes are 1-
5/16 inches apart. Image below.

The tie for the leadnut is slotted to allow for


adjustment. The position of the four corner holes
is approximate.

This tie was cut to length when the top and bottom
ties were cut.
The slot can be drilled and filed at this time.

Three 3/16 inch holes for the slot are drilled at the Leadnut support made
positions shown in the drawing above. They are of flat bar.
centered end to end. The remaining stock between
the holes is then filed to make the slot’s walls The holes for the leadnut’s flange and the diameter
smooth. of the ½ inch hole will vary depending on the
leadnut used.
The position of the tie on the rails will be
determined later. Therefore, do not drill the four The hole in the flat bar only has to be large enough
holes for the rail-to-tie screws yet. for the leadscrew when the leadnut points down.
The less material removed the stiffer the bar will
Drill and file the slot in the tie at this time. be.

Carriage 61
The leadnut can be a tee nut or a specialty anti- This second bar has three extra threaded holes that
backlash nut. The holes in the drawings are sized support machine screws. These screws can be
for a 3/8 inch Delrin nut. tightened against the cross tie to adjust the
orientation of the leadnut on the leadscrew.
It is easier to drill the holes in the flange of the tee Nuts are on the three adjusting screws to lock them
nut or leadnut, and then use these holes to position into place.
the matching holes in the flat bar.
The leadnut’s flat bar rocks on a washer that is on
The leadnut should be installed with its flange the center screw. This washer is sandwiched
below the flat bar. With this positioning the axis between the cross tie and flat bar; this washer is
cannot fall should the machine screws work loose. only used in the three extra screw system.

The bracket is also below the cross tie for the same In the single screw flat bar, there is no washer
reason. Its single mounting screw could be removed between the tie and flat bar. The tie and flat bar are
and the axis would not fall, though backlash would tightened directly to each other.
be considerable.
The center screw in both systems is tightened into
The drawing below shows another option for the the threads in the flat bar; a nut with washer
flat bar. tightens the flat bar into place in the slot in the tie.
Threading this machine screw into the flat bar
makes adjustment easier since the screw will not
freewheel.

The three screw rocking system is used to


compensate for a variety of offsets.

The aluminum angle stock used for the cross tie,


and the tee nuts used for leadnuts are not always
square. The rocking system is used in these
situations to adjust the nut so it does not cause
Leadnut support with holes for excess drag on the leadscrew.
adjustment screws. All darkened
holes are tapped. The Delrin leadnuts tend to be flat and square and
usually do not require the adjusting screws; the
single center screw in the flat bar is sufficient.

Shims made from soft drink cans or similar, are


another option that can be used in place of the
machine screws for adjusting the angle of the
leadnut.

The leadnut is held to the bar with #8-32 or #6


Three adjustment screws with screws depending on the size of the leadnut. The
nuts are used to align the leadnut
on the leadscrew. They press
other screws are all #8-32 x ½ inch.
against the bottom of the cross tie.
At this time, the leadnut’s flange can be drilled for
its mounting screws, and the support bar can be cut
and drilled.

Carriage 62
The leadnut can be tightly screwed to the flat bar, Move the rails as far up
and the flat bar can be loosely attached to the cross as possible and repeat the
tie. Make sure that the leadscrew will not chafe on process with the leadnut
the flat bar as the leadscrew passes through the assembly touching the top
leadnut. plate. Mark the tie’s
position on the rails.
Positioning this flat bar and its cross tie on the rails Figure on right.
is next.
Position the tie so it is
between the marks if they
Attach Leadnut Tie to Rails are not at the same place.

The leadnut’s cross tie will be attached to the rails Hold the tie in place and
with four screws, just as the top and bottom ties move the rails to check
were. that the leadnut’s position
and rail’s movement are
The position of the cross correct.
tie has to be determined
so the pipes will not
derail, and the axis can It is usually better to
take full advantage of the place extra pipe, if there
maximum travel. is any, above the axis so
the leadnut will be nearer
Place the rails into the the router. The shorter the
Pipes as high as they can
bearings. Only the top distance between the go without derailing.
and bottom ties are leadnut and the router the Leadnut abuts the top of
attached to the rails. The less material there is to the carriage.
bottom tie has two extra flex.
holes in it. See image on
right.
Be sure the tie is centered so it will not hit the
Move the rails as far bearings. Drill the four holes in the tie and rails and
down as possible before tap the rails just as was done with the other cross
they derail from the top ties. Attach the leadnut’s tie.
bearings.
The router-spindle mount is installed next. This
P la ce the lea dnut operation is easier with the rails removed from the
assembly on the rails so carriage.
the leadnut touches the The leadnut’s flat bar will have to be detached
b ot t om lea ds cr ew from the tie for the rails to be removed.
bearing bracket. Right Pipes as low as possible
image. before derailing. Leadnut
abuts bottom leadscrew
bearing support.
Mark the tie’s position
on the rails.

Carriage 63
Neither wood nor plastics are recommended for
Spindle Mount Overview this plate; it carries a heavy load and any flex will
contribute to bit chatter.
The router-spindle mount should be constructed
before the Z rails are installed on the carriage. It is The straps wrap completely around the flat bar and
easier to work with the rail assembly when it is are tensioned against the router with 1/4 inch bolts
independent of the carriage. with nuts and washers.

The spindle used with the prototypes is a Makita The band-straps abut the bottom angle tie and the
RF1101 router. This was chosen because it has top flat tie. Placing the bands close to the cross ties
received good reviews and is noted as being one of helps to prevent the vertical flat bar from bending.
the quieter models available. Figure below.

Other routers will work just as well and can be


attached in a manner similar to the method shown
here. The router should be on hand so the size,
shape and position of the band straps and cradles
can be checked against the tool itself. The depth of
the cradle has to be sized so the router’s top does
not press against the rails.

The straps wrap behind the flat bar.


The straps abut the top and bottom
cross ties.

Router mount made of flat bar


and band clamps.

The router mount is made of 1 x 1/8 inch


aluminum flat bar, band strap from plumbing pipe
supports, and crescent shaped cradles that are cut
from wood. Figure above.

These components were chosen because they are


Dimensions of the router mount assembly. The
found at home centers. A larger aluminum back
straps shown are spaced for a router with a 3-1/2
plate could easily be used instead of the 1 x 1/8 flat inch high housing-to-base section.
bar but this is usually not a hardware store item. It is easier to use the flat tie to determine the
locations of the holes in the rails than to use the
dimensions shown.

Carriage 64
The cradle has to be deep enough to prevent the top
Spindle Cradles of the router from resting against the rails. The
circled 1/4 inch dimension shown below may have
The cradles are made of 1 inch (nominal) wood to be altered when a different router is used.
which has an actual thickness of 3/4 inch.

MDF will also work for the cradles but it has a


tendency to split. It can be glued back together if it
does. The bands and the router itself will usually
press the cradles into shape and prevent further
splitting.

The crescent cuts were made with a 3-1/4 inch hole


saw. They can of course also be cut with a jig saw, Cradle dimensions. Multiple measures are given for cross
band saw, or coping saw. They can be sanded to fit checking and to give comparative measures so alterations
will be easier.
tightly against the router’s housing.

The ends of the cradles are angled so they will


clear the bearings.

The back edges of the cradles are 2-3/8 inches


long. The flat bars’ outside edges will be 2-1/4
inches apart. This difference allows the band
Cradles are made of wood. They prevent straps to pull tightly against both the flat bars and
the router from rocking in the band
the cradles. This difference is circled below.
clamps.

The diameter of the crescent should be as close as


possible to that of the router. However, the
flexibility of the wood will permit a small amount
of variation; the band clamps will pull minor
offsets to shape.

Band strap wraps the cradle and the flat bars.


The cradle extends a fraction beyond the
outside edges of the flat bars.

The cradles can be roughed-out and then sanded to


The holes in the cradle are recessed so fit. Again, the softness of the wood will forgive
the screw heads do not chafe the router.
minor discrepancies when the cradles are clamped
into place.

The two cradles can be cut and drilled now.

Carriage 65
Vertical Flat Bar Flat Bar Cross Tie

The straps wrap a pair of vertical 1 x 1/8 inch The flat bar cross tie was cut to length when the
aluminum flat bars. These bars are tied to the cross angle ties were cut.
ties with machine screws.

The length of these vertical flat bars is determined


by the section of the router that will be clamped.
It is best for the band clamps to be as far apart as
possible on the router.
Flat bar cross tie. The corner holes
These bars are sized for a router that has a 3-1/2 should be aligned with the pipe rails.
inch high clamping section on its motor housing.
The two holes on the center line are drilled for #8-
These two flat bars can be cut and drilled at this 32 x ½ inch machine screws which tie the vertical
time. bars to this tie.
The holes in the edges are drilled to match the
pipes, just as was done with the leadnut tie.

The process for positioning the holes follows:

Drill the two holes that are 1-1/4 inch apart in this
tie. Do not drill the four corner holes yet.

Loosely attach the tops of the two vertical flat bars


to this tie with the machine screws and nuts.

Loosely attach the bottom of


the vertical ties to the bottom
angle tie that is already on
the pipe rails. Use #8-32 x ½
inch machine screws with
nuts.

Note: These four screws


may hit the Z leadscrew
bottom bearing mount. The
Vertical flat bars. screws can be installed with
their heads on the back of
the axis to give clearance, or Cross tie and vertical
the threads can be filed later flat bars attached
if needed. to the pipes.

Carriage 66
Tighten the four machine screws enough for the top That material is too thin to hold a full sized router
flat bar tie to hold position. These screws will have well.
to be loosened later to install the straps; therefore, Other types of strap will work including band
they should not be permanently tightened at this clamps, and tie down strap.
time. Put the pipe rails in the carriage and check
that the flat bar tie will clear the bottom bearings. The band clamps can be opened and bent around
the vertical bars. A problem with band clamps is
Drill 9/64 inch holes through the corners of the the slots that serve as threads can strip when firmly
cross tie and into the pipe rails. tightened.
Enlarge the holes in the tie to 11/64 inch and tap
the matching holes in the rails. This is the same The tie down strap is used in home construction
process as was done with the leadnut tie. and is sometimes called mobile home tie down
strap or hurricane strap, and is available in varying
Use #8-32 x ½ inch machine screws to attach the widths and lengths. It is stiff and challenging to
tie to the rails. These four screws do not have to be bend.
removed later and can be tightened into place now.
The strap for the Makita router is cut to 12 inches
Drill and attach this tie at this time. and bent at the lines shown in the dimensioned
drawing at the bottom of the page.

Router Band Straps It is easier to drill the holes before bending the
material.
These two straps are cut from pipe hanger strap. The material is clamped in a vise with the jaws on
the bend line, and the strap is bent with a hammer.
This material is around
1/16 inch thick and 3/4 inch The bends near the center of the strap can be
wide. It is found in the compared to the edges
plumbing section of home of the cradles for the
centers where it is pre-bent angle.
for differently sized pipes. The bends at the ends
It has holes, bends and are near 90 degrees.
twists in it. The holes can This angle can be
be ignored and the twists determined by eye; the
can be pounded out. tensioning bolts will The sharp angles are bent
Router support straps bent
to shape. A 1/4 x 1-1/2 pull the bends to first; then the curves are
shape. formed.
Two feet of strap is needed; inch bolt clamps them
one long hanger strap can around the router.
supply enough material for The curves in the straps are partially formed by
both pieces. holding the strap in a vise and bending it with a
This strap is not the thin material that is sold in hammer or pliers. The final bending can be done
rolls and sometimes called plumber’s tape. later when the straps are installed on the axis. The
router itself can be used as the template.

Bend lines and holes in the router mounting straps. Two straps are needed.

Carriage 67
A section of threaded rod can be used to span the The screws can be flat or round head. Washers can
tension bolt holes to pull the ends together. Once be used should the screw heads pull too deeply into
the ends are close together, the strap can be held the cradles.
into place with pliers while the tension bolt and its
nut and washers are installed. Insert long #8 screws through the cradles, the
vertical flat bars and the straps.
The tension bolts should be threaded their entire
length to allow a longer range of adjustment. Enlarge or re-drill any of the holes as needed so the
Carriage bolts may be the only fully threaded screws can pass through the components. The drill
option available; they work well. bit can be driven through the entire stack of parts
while one screw is in place.
The router band straps can be made at this time.
The final rounded bends will be done after Put washers and nuts on the screws as they extend
assembly, which is covered next. through the backs of the straps.

After all four screws are


Router Mount Assembly loosely installed and the
components are aligned,
The cradles, vertical bars, cross tie and straps have tighten the assembly
been made and are ready to be put together. The together. Also tighten
cross tie is already attached to the pipe rails. the vertical bars to the
cross ties.
Loosen the screws that hold
the vertical bars to the bottom Place the rails into the Z
angle tie. Remove the top bearings and check for
screws that attach the vertical clearance around the Completed router mount.
bars to the flat cross tie. bearings and the Z
leadscrew bottom bearing support.
Slide the router mounting Adjust, file or grind the ties and screws as
straps over the vertical bars. necessary so the rails move without interference.
Re-install the two screws that
hold the vertical bars to the The router straps can be bent to their final shape at
flat tie. They are not this time. This can be done with the rails removed
permanently tightened yet. from the carriage while using the router body as the
form.

Note: The screws that tie the Remove top screws so


cradles to the straps and bands can be slid over
vertical bars will ultimately be vertical bars.
around 5/8 inch long. However
it is easier to use longer screws and tighten them to
pull the components together.
It is difficult to press all of the parts into place
while installing the nuts on the tails of shorter
screws.
The longer screws can be cut or filed to length once
they are installed.

Carriage 68
On the wood prototypes the total is12 inches. The
Tension Rods extra inch makes it easier to assemble the parts.

The tension rods are #10 threaded rods that are cut The tension rods will be adjusted over the life of
to length. Their purpose is to pull the bearings the machine to compensate for wear and the
against the rails. flattening of the rails.

Two pairs of rods are The tension for the Y rods is adjusted when the
used. One set spans the carriage is on the gantry; they will be installed
top and bottom plates. later.
They tension the Y
bearings against the The rods can be cut to length at this time.
gantry rails by pulling
the bottom plate upward. Installation instructions for the Z rods follow the
Right image. next Extension Bracket section.

The other pair of rods


spans the front of the Tension Rod Extension Brackets
carriage and tensions the
Z bearings against their These brackets are not mandatory but they allow
rails by pulling the sides The tension rods on the more clearance between the leadnut’s cross tie and
back of the carriage pull the
together. top and bottom plate the tension rod. This permits a little more upward
together. travel, and grants easier access to the leadnut bar’s
A pair of extension adjustment nut.
brackets can be used
with the top front The brackets are cut from
tension rod to allow a section of 1 x 1/8 inch
more clearance for the flat bar and are drilled as
leadnut cross tie. shown.
They may not be
necessary on all They are installed with
machines. They are machine screws in the Optional bracket for the top
addressed in the next tension rod’s hole in the Z tension rod. Make two.
section. top of the side plates. The
tension rod is held in the second hole in the bracket.
The length of the Z
front rods is the outside The front tension rods pull the Z
width of the side plates bearings into the rails by pulling
(6 inches) plus one the sides together.
inch for the nuts and
washers that will be on the ends of the rods. Any
extra length of the rods can be cut off after the
table is completely assembled. It is difficult to start
the nuts on the rods if the rods are initially cut to Top front tension rod in brackets.
their final length.
These two brackets can be made and attached to
The length of the Y rods on the back of the carriage the top of the carriage at this time.
is the distance from the top of the top plate to the
bottom of the bottom plate, plus 1 inch.

Carriage 69
Adjust Z Tension Rods and Bearings Sequence Note

The Y rods cannot be installed until the carriage is The Z rails and bearings have to be aligned before
on the gantry. the Z leadscrew can be installed.
The front Z rods should be installed and adjusted
before the Z leadscrew is installed. One or both of the Z tension rods may have to be
removed to adjust the Z leadscrew. This is not a
Slide the Z rail assembly into its bearings and problem. The rods were previously installed to
check for smooth travel. check that the rails were aligned with the bearings.
When re-installing the tension rods, the bearing to
Adjust the bearings as needed by loosening their #8 rail tension is again checked by gripping the
mounting screws and moving the bearings on the bearings with fingers.
side plates. The rails and bearings should be
parallel to the back plate.
Z Leadscrew, Overview
Insert the two Z tension rods into their holes in the
side plates or brackets, and thread nuts with The Z leadscrew can be installed after the rails are
washers onto each end. aligned in the bearings.

Tighten the nuts against the side plates to pull the The leadscrew is supported by two bearings, one is
bearings into the rails. in the top plate and the other is in the bearing block
at the bottom of the
The bearings are tight enough when they can barely carriage.
be kept from turning by gripping them with fingers.
There is a range of tension between too tight where As discussed in the
the bearings will be overloaded, and too loose System Comparisons
where the rails will not ride securely. It is usually section on page 111, a
better to err to being slightly tight. variety of leadscrews
will wor k. T he
Over time the bearings will press flat tracks into prot ot yp es used
the rails. The tension rods can be adjusted to Allthread and Acme rod
compensate for this. The flattening process will for the Z. The process is
slow as the tracks widen and give the bearings a the same for both types.
larger surface to ride. 3/8-10 2 start Acme
leadscrews have worked
The rails should move freely inside the bearings well.
and fall under their own weight. However they do
not have to move with absolutely no drag. A hubbed or hub-less
pulley will work with the
This is mentioned because many DIY forums speak leadscrew. However it is Leadscrew components
of the rails moving extremely easily and coasting much easier to access in carriage.
forever. This is unnecessary, and from experience the set screws with a
here, the rails are too loose when they move that hubbed pulley. The belt blocks the set screws on a
easily. The looseness contributes to chatter. hub-less pulley.
A hubbed pulley can be positioned so the hub abuts
Adjust the Z rails, bearings and Z tension rods the bearing. In this position the pulley’s flanges
now. will not rub against the bearing or top plate.

Carriage 70
It is possible to use a leadscrew that does not have
smoothly machined ends. However set-screws do
not lock well against the threads of the leadscrew.
A flat should be filed on the leadscrew for the set-
screws to seat against.

A nut can be tightened against the top of the pulley


to prevent the thrust load from loosening the
pulley. This is especially helpful for a pulley that is
not seated on a smoothly machined surface.

Standard nuts for multi-start leadscrews are Optional double nuts on bottom of leadscrew.
difficult to find. It is possible to use a standard
threaded die over the Acme leadscrew to cut new The tension can be adjusted at both the top and the
threads. The leadnut cannot travel over the newly bottom of the leadscrew.
threaded surface, so either the leadnut should be on It is usually easier to tension the nuts at the bottom
the leadscrew before the ends are re-threaded, or since the pulley is attached to the top.
only one end of the leadscrew should be re-
threaded. Both of the bearings are on the outside of the
carriage so they can be inserted into their seats
End clamps are available for multi-start after the leadscrew is in place. This can make
leadscrews; these can be used instead of nuts. assembly easier.

A small hose with a hose clamp will also work as The rails and the leadscrew have to be aligned. The
an end clamp. A washer is placed between the hose bottom bearing block is adjustable for this purpose;
and the bearing to keep the hose from compressing the top bearing is fixed into place and cannot be
against the bearing’s seal and causing drag. moved. This helps to lessen the variables that have
to be adjusted.
The nuts and or clamps on each end of the
leadscrews tighten it into the bearings. The nuts
should be tight enough to remove the end to end Z Leadscrew Installation Sequence
movement but not so tight as to overload the
bearings. The bearings will be noisy and not turn The sequence for installing the leadscrew follows.
smoothly when they are overloaded. It is okay to Details are addressed in the next section.
slightly over tighten the nuts against the bearings
and to then back off the tension to find the best Cut leadscrew to length.
setting. Install top bearing on leadscrew.
Double nuts can be used on each end of the Install 12 tooth pulley on leadscrew.
leadscrew to lock the parts into place. Locking Insert leadscrew through carriage top plate.
nuts can also be used as well as Loctite with Thread leadnut onto leadscrew below the leadnut
standard nuts. Tapping a set-screw into the side of support cross tie.
a nut is another option, when the leadscrew’s Extend leadscrew through bottom bearing bracket.
length is limited. Install bottom bearing block and bearing.
Install bottom nut(s)
Align and tighten leadscrew, leadnut and bottom
bearing block.

Carriage 71
bit size to the desired bore. Should there not be
Z Leadscrew Installation enough stock left for the set screw(s) in the hub, a
new hole for a set screw can be drilled and tapped
The Z leadscrew can be installed with the carriage through the toothed section of the pulley, as is done
either on or off of the gantry. Final adjustments with a hub-less pulley.
may be necessary after all axes are assembled.
The threads of the leadscrew should be filed to
At this time the Z rails and the bottom bearing match the set-screws in the pulley so the set-screws
block’s angle bracket should be in place. The Z seat firmly against the leadscrew. The pulley will
rails should move smoothly before the leadscrew work loose when its set-screws are tightened
is installed. against the unfiled leadscrew threads.

Cut the leadscrew to length. Tighten the top nut against the pulley. The nut is
This will be the total height of optional but will help to hold the pulley into place
the Z carriage plus the length when the leadscrew is not machined smooth.
required for the end nuts and
the pulley. On the wood Insert the leadscrew through the bearing hole in the
prototypes this distance is 13- carriage’s top plate.
1/4 inches. A 12 inch
leadscrew would barely fit but Thread the leadscrew into the leadnut. The leadnut
it can not be completely should be attached to its supporting flat bar.
inserted into the pulley; there The leadnut has to be below the leadnut’s cross tie
would be no room for a nut on that is already attached to the Z rails. Do not attach
top of the pulley. the flat bar to the cross tie yet.

The leadscrew can be longer Insert the leadscrew through the aluminum bottom
than needed. The extra material bearing block angle bracket.
can project above the pulley or
it can extend out of the bottom. Press the bottom bearing into the plastic bearing
The router’s collet is likely to block and slide these two parts onto the leadscrew.
extend below the rails far The bearing is positioned toward the bottom end of
enough that some extra L e a d s c r e w w i t h the leadscrew.
leadscrew length will not bearing, pulley and nut
installed.
interfere with the work.

Thread or machine the ends of the leadscrew if


desired. This is not mandatory; the leadscrew can
be held into place with commercial clamps or
tubing with hose clamps or nuts, depending on the Bearing is toward the bottom of the
type of threaded rod that is used. leadscrew with the block above it. The
rails are not shown.
Install the top bearing onto the leadscrew. The
bearing is simply slid onto the leadscrew when the Install a nut on the end of the leadscrew. Finger
screw is not machined to fit the bearing. tighten it enough to remove end to end play in the
leadscrew. The leadscrew’s bottom bearing block
Install the 12 tooth XL pulley; its hub should point should be able to slide on its aluminum angle
downward so it will rest on the bearing’s bore. bracket.
A 12 tooth pulley with a large enough bore may not
be available. An aluminum pulley can be drilled to Loosely attach the leadnut’s support bar to its
a larger bore size. Incrementally increase the drill cross tie.

Carriage 72
Twist the leadscrew to move the leadnut to its Should parts require further alignment, the
highest possible position. leadscrew and rail bearings are adjustable, and
each can be moved to match the alignment of the
Tighten the leadnut’s bar to the cross tie with their other.
nut and machine screw connection. Work incrementally to find problems, address them
one at a time. They usually become obvious as a
Turn the leadscrew to move the leadnut and rails to component is being tightened into place, so check
their lowest possible position. for excess loading while tightening parts together.
Tighten the bottom bearing block into place with
its two machine screws and nuts.

The leadscrew should now be aligned and move Sequence Review


with a minimum of drag.
At this time the following parts are installed on the
Tighten the nut(s) on the bottom of the leadscrew Z carriage.
to remove any play between the bearings.
Y bearings
All of the hardware will be permanently tightened Z bearings
into place after the table is completely assembled. Z rails
Spindle mount
The Z stepper will be installed after the carriage is Leadscrew with leadnut, pulley and bearings
on the gantry. Its wires will be in the way if the Front Z tension rods
stepper is attached before then.
The back vertical Y tension rods have been cut to
length but are not in place.
If there is excess drag, loosen the components one
at a time to find its cause. The Z stepper plate is made but not attached to the
The angle of the leadnut on the leadscrew is the carriage. This will be attached after the carriage is
usual problem. on the Y gantry.

The leadnut’s angle can be altered on the leadscrew The carriage will be attached to the gantry after the
by using shims between the cross tie and the gantry is installed on the X axis.
leadnut’s flat bar. The rocking version of the flat
bar was also designed to address this. Gantry installation follows.

The bottom bearing’s angle bracket may have to be


moved for the bearing to be square with the
leadscrew. The screws that tie the aluminum
bracket to the back plate can be loosened for
adjustment.
Once parts are aligned, nuts with washers are
tightened onto the screw ends where they project
through the back plate. These nuts lock the
machine screws into place.

Carriage 73
Gantry Installation
Before Installing Gantry

The gantry can be installed on the X rails once its


components have been built. The X table has to be
Y leadnut in its
assembled before the gantry can be completed. support block.
Y leadscrew
bearing block.
The following has been done, or should be done at
this time, before further work is begun on the The rails are loosely installed on the X axis.
gantry.
Caps can be installed on the front ends of the X
The gantry rails are installed and tightened. rails to prevent the gantry from falling off of the
rails during tuning. A few wraps with tape will also
work, as will a locked on Vise-Grip.

Attach Gantry to Rails


Lift the gantry beam with its loosely attached end
plates onto the rails. The X bearings should rest on
the rails.
Rack and pinion gantry on X rails. Tighten the single screw that holds each wood end
End plates are held on by a single screw. plate to the gantry beam so the end plates are held
tightly to the gantry beam.
The end plates are cut and drilled and loosely
attached to the gantry beam. The tops of the end Tighten the X bearings on the end plates onto the X
plates and beam are flush with each other, and the rails. The nuts should be positioned so the top
match lines on the end plates are aligned with the bearings are centered on
gantry beam. the rails. Washers can
be used as spacers.
The X bearing components are loosely attached to Pull the bearings on the
the end plates. 120° angles against the
rails with the nuts on
The X stepper mount and its idler are made for the the carriage bolts. Nuts
rack and pinion X axis. and washers sandwich
the 120° angle to keep it
from rocking.
Position bearings on X rails.
These 120° angled
bearing should be pulled tightly against the rails.
Pinch the bearings with fingers as the gantry is
X Pinion stepper moved to check for tightness. It should be difficult
Idler
mount. to prevent the bearings from turning when held.
They can slide on the rail when grasped very
The rack is installed on the gantry beam for the firmly.
rack and pinion Y axis.
The leadscrew bearing block, belt idler, and It is usually better to err to being too tight than too
leadnut support block are made for the Y leadscrew loose. Extreme tightness causes premature bearing
axis. wear, and looseness permits bit chatter.

Gantry Installation 74
The bearings will wear flats into the rails and will Spread glue along the mating surfaces between the
have to be readjusted over time. The flats will tend wood beam and end plate. Swing the end plate
to stabilize as they become wider. back into place and install all of the attachment
screws. The attachment screws are 1-5/8 inch
Move the gantry from end to end on the X axis. It drywall screws. 1/4-20 studs and #8-32 screws are
should move smoothly; its movement will position used with the aluminum version.
the X pipe rails on their 2 x 6 support beams.
Repeat the process for the other side. Make sure
A little resistance in the travel the gantry rides well on the rails before gluing the
may be felt as the 120° bearings second end plate into place. The top X and outside
pass by the studs in the rails. X bearings should all ride on the X rails when the
This is caused by the nut inside 120° bearings are loose. The 120° bearings are to
the pipe pulling the pipe out of resist uplift, they generally should not be required
round. This slight bulge can be to pull the other bearings into position. However
removed by sliding a file over the they can compensate for a little misalignment.
File bulge as
high spot.
needed.
The end plates may not be exactly parallel or
Incrementally tighten one X pipe rail to its beam by aligned with each other due to the placement of the
tightening the nuts that are in the 1-1/2 inch holes X bearings. This is not a problem. What is
in the beams. important is that the gantry moves smoothly on the
Check the gantry’s movement during the X rails.
tightening.

After one rail is in place, tighten the other rail to its Attach X Pinion Components
beam while moving the gantry to check for This section is ignored for the leadscrew X axis;
alignment. Tightening the second rail will bring skip to Attach Carriage to Gantry on page 78.
attention to any misalignment, and the first rail
may have to be loosened and re-tightened to After the end plates are firmly attached to the
remove any lack of parallel between the rails. gantry beam, and the gantry is on the X rails, the X
pinion components can be installed.

Attach End Plates

After the X rails are firmly tightened to their


beams, the gantry end plates are permanently
attached to the gantry beam.

Vertically twist the gantry beam as needed so it is


square with the X table. X pinion gantry on X axis rails.
Drill pilot holes through the existing holes in the
end plates into the gantry beam for the attaching Drill and tap the pinions for #8-32 set-screws. The
screws. For the aluminum version the holes are screws should be around 90° apart. The pilot holes
13/64 inch for the 1/4-20 studs and 9/64 inch for are 9/64 inch.
the #8-32 screws.
Remove the single attachment screw from one end Slide a 36 tooth XL pulley onto the pinion axle.
plate and swivel the end plate away from the gantry This axle is a ½ x 36 inch steel rod.
beam. The beam will rest on the X rail and the end The back of the pulley should be around 2-3/4
plate will be hanging off of the X rail by its X inches from the end of the axle. This value will
bearings. vary with each machine. The back of the pulley is

Gantry Installation 75
the side without the hub, if it has a hub. if needed to align the ends of the pinions with the
axle. Or the axle can be cut. This should only be
This pulley does not have to be flanged since it is necessary when a custom sized machine is being
positioned vertically, but flanges do prevent the made. The axle extending from the ends of the
belt from ever derailing, even with a worn belt. pinions will prevent the X rack from aligning with
the pinions.

Components on pinion axle.

Put a washer on the axle behind the pulley. The Pinion and bearing
washer will help to hold the bearing into place in on end plate.
the wooden stepper mount. The washer cannot
chafe against the bearing’s seal. A flattened lock The pinions, or the spacers behind the pinions,
washer or a sliver of ½ inch copper plumbing pipe have to press against the end plate bearings.
can be used for this spacer. Otherwise the axle may travel from end to end.
This can cause drag on the rack support or cause
Slide a 1-1/8 x ½ inch bearing against the washer- the belt to derail.
spacer.
Press the wooden stepper mount over the bearing. The pinions’ set screws can be tightened against
the axle, but one or both of the pinions will have to
Put a 75 tooth x 3/8 inch XL belt on the long end be loosened later to square the gantry with the rack.
of the axle.
After the axle is in place, the stepper mount can be
Pass the axle through the un-notched end plate’s attached to the end plate.
bearing hole from the inside of the gantry, and then
put the end with the just attached parts through the
notched end plate’s bearing hole. Attach X Stepper Mount to End Plate

The stepper mount is attached to the end plate with


two 1/4 x 2-1/2 inch carriage bolts. The bolts are
inserted through the 5/16 inch holes in the end plate
and stepper mount.
T hes e ho les a r e
oversized to allow for
adjustments.

Washers and three 5/16


X pinion pulley assembly.
inch nuts are used as
Put a bearing on each end of the axle and slide a spacers on each of the
pinion against each bearing. The pinions should 1/4 inch carriage bolts X stepper mount on the
press the bearings into the recesses in the end to position the stepper gantry end plate.
plates. Center the axle so it is spaced evenly in mount away from the
each pinion. The axle may not completely fill the end plate. The stepper mount has to clear the X
bore of each pinion. The axle should not protrude rail. It will drag on the rail if it is too close to the
from the ends of the pinions. Use washers/spacers end plate.

Gantry Installation 76
X stepper plate back section view. The X stepper plate. Top view. Side view of X stepper plate.
stepper and idler are not drawn to show The X rail bearings are not shown.
the carriage bolts. The 5/16 inch nuts are
spacers.

Attach the stepper mount to the end plate at this mount upward away from the bracket when
time. The 36 tooth pulley and its bearing can be tightening the carriage bolts.
moved if necessary. Tighten the carriage bolts to secure the mount now.
Abut the 36 tooth pulley against the bearing’s
There should be clearance between the top of the washer/spacer and tighten the pulley’s set screws.
120° X bearing bracket and the mount. Rotate the

Install X Stepper, Belt and Idler Wrap the 75 tooth XL belt around the two pulleys
and install the idler in its slot. The top right image
Because of the thickness of the stepper mount, the shows the belt’s path.
12 tooth pulley will probably have to be attached to The idler’s bolt can point
the stepper before the stepper is installed. The ½ in either direction; do
inch plywood will block access to the pulley’s set whatever is easier. Use
screws. It is better for this pulley to be hubbed so washers to position the
there will be more length to its bore. idler on the belt. Tension
the idler against the belt
Hold the stepper in its hole and align its 12 tooth and tighten its axle bolt Idler attached to
pulley with the 36 tooth pulley. Remove the stepper and nut. stepper mount.
and tighten the 12 tooth pulley to the stepper’s
shaft. The clearance between the belt and the 120° X
bearing bracket is close. Trim the top of the
Attach the stepper to the mount with four #8-32 x bearing bracket if necessary.
1 inch machine screws; it does not matter which
way the threads point, though it may not be Once it is clear that everything fits well, the idler
possible to fit the nuts on the stepper side due to can be loosened and the belt can be removed; this
the size of the stepper’s body. will permit the axle to freewheel.

At this time, the idler and belt can be installed to The pinion portion of the X axis, which can be
check for fit. However, it will be easier to install done now, is complete. It will be necessary to
the racks without the belt attached to the stepper, rotate the pinions to square the gantry after the
so the axle can freewheel. racks are installed.

Gantry Installation 77
Attach Carriage to Gantry
The carriage will ride on the bearings. The Y rack
After the gantry is on the X axis, the carriage can version will probably turn the Y pinion as the
be installed on the gantry. carriage is moved. The Y leadscrew version will
move freely.
This section is for both the Y pinion and Y The bearings may be loose even with the carriage
leadscrew versions of the carriage. Specific bottom plate firmly attached to the back plate; this
directions for each version follow this section. is not a problem.

Note for
Y Rack and Pinion

Before installing the


carriage, the rack
should be as close as
possible to the Y pipe
rail with its top corner
abutting the rail. Rack abuts pipe.

Tension rods in back of carriage.


The carriage for both versions should have the top
and bottom Y bearings, the Z bearings, Z rails and
the Z leadscrew in place. The pinion version also Install the Y tension rods through the holes in the
has the pinion with its bearings and bearing block carriage’s top and bottom plates and tighten them
installed. enough for the bearing trucks to hold position on
the top and bottom plates.
Loosen or remove the
carriage’s bottom plate As described in the bottom plate section, the
so the bottom bearings tension rods can be threaded into the bottom plate,
will clear the bottom or into tee nuts that are in the bottom plate. The
gantry rail. tension rods’ extra length should project from the
top plate rather than from below the bottom plate.
Place the carriage’s top
Y bearings on the For the Y pinion version, skip the next section and
gantry’s top rail and continue on the next page at Y Pinion Adjustment.
swing the carriage so
the bottom bearings
slide underneath and Position Carriage (Leadscrew Version)
onto the bottom rail.
The back of the carriage needs to be around 5/8
Tighten the bottom inch away from the face of the gantry beam to give
plate’s attachment nuts Carriage ready to be installed clearance for the leadscrew and leadnut. This
on their studs to pull on gantry with bottom plate distance will vary and the leadnut’s flanges can be
loosened.
the bottom Y bearings trimmed to fit later.
into the Y rail.
Pull the carriage away from the front of the gantry
beam as far as it can move.

Attach Carriage 78
Square the carriage with the bed of the X table. tight, it will be easier to adjust the pinion on the
axle rather than to adjust the distance between the
Tighten the trucks to the top and bottom plates bearings.
with the nuts on their #8 attachment screws.
The washer or spacer between the pinion and
Adjust the tension rods to tighten the bearings bearing can be a flattened lock washer or a ring cut
against the Y rails. This is the same process as was from 1/4 inch copper pipe couplers. These fit well
done for the Z axis’ tension rods. over 3/8 inch shafts; they have a small OD so they
will not chafe the bearing seal.
Check that the carriage moves smoothly on the
rails. Adjust the trucks and tension rods as needed. The positions of the bearings were designed so the
36 tooth pulley will keep the axle from falling
The Y leadscrew carriage is now ready for the Y down, and the pinion will prevent the axle from
bearing block installation. This begins on the climbing up. Therefore, the pinion, or a spacer
bottom of page 81. between the pinion and the bearing, must abut the
bottom bearing.

Y Pinion Adjustment Check that the pinion’s teeth are inline with the
Align Pinion rack’s teeth and tighten the 5/16 inch nuts. The
pinion does not have to fully engage the rack; it can
The entire carriage should be loose enough on the be slightly above or below the rack’s teeth.
bearing trucks that it can be moved to adjust the However the teeth should be parallel to each other.
clearance between the pinion and the rack.
The vertical positioning of the pinion should now
be correct.

Install 36 Tooth Pulley (Pinion Version)

This pulley should sit as close as possible to the


top plate so it will align with the stepper’s pulley.
Adjustment of rack and pinion tension.
The stepper’s pulley is unable to extend very high
The pinion’s bearing block is also loose and will because of the shortness of the stepper’s shaft.
allow movement.
The 36 tooth pulley will have to be held a fraction
of an inch above the bearing so it will not chafe on
the bearing or the top plate. A spacer made of a
flattened lock washer or a 1/4 inch copper pipe
coupler as described for the pinion spacing can be
used here. A slice is cut from the coupler and
placed on the 3/8 inch axle.

The pinion is aligned with the rack. One of the stepper’s support screws is covered by
the 36 tooth pulley. This screw hole should be
With the carriage on the rails, vertically align the countersunk and the screw should be placed in its
pinion with the rack. Use washers as needed hole before the pulley is installed.
between the bearing block and the top plate and/or Check to make sure that the nut of the screw can be
use spacers between the bottom bearing and the turned at the stepper. The clearance around some
pinion. Do whatever is easier. If the bearings are steppers’ mounting holes is close, and a #8 nut

Y Pinion 79
cannot be turned to tighten a stationary screw. Adjust the bottom trucks so the carriage is square
It may be necessary to use a #6 screw with its with the table top, and tighten the bottom trucks
smaller nut in this location. into place.

Adjust the tension rods to tighten the bearings


against the Y rails. This is the same process as was
done for the Z axis’ tension rods.

Install Y Stepper (Pinion Version)

The stepper is held into place with four #8 machine


screws. Three can be positioned with their threads
One stepper screw points down to clear
pointing up. As stated previously, the screw under
the 36 tooth pulley.
the 36 tooth pulley will have to be countersunk into
the top plate so it will not interfere with the pulley,
Install the single stepper screw and the 36 tooth and it may need to be a #6 size so its nut can be
pulley with its shimming washer at this time. tightened.

Press the pinion axle components together so there The thickness of the top plate does not permit the
is no end to end play in the axle and tighten the set stepper’s 12 tooth pulley to sit near the stepper.
screws on the 36 tooth pulley. Therefore, this smaller pulley should have a hub.
The extra length of the hub allows the pulley to
The pinion axle assembly should now be firmly in extend above the top plate while the pulley is
place. firmly attached to the stepper’s shaft.

The top plate will probably block access to the set


Tension Pinion into Rack screws in the stepper’s pulley, so it will be
necessary to install the pulley before attaching the
The carriage can be moved on the Y bearing trucks stepper to the plate.
to press the pinion into the rack. Also the rack
itself can be moved by adjusting the machine Hold the stepper into place while moving the pulley
screws in the rack support brackets. Refer to the into alignment with the 36 tooth pulley, and then
pictures in the previous Align Pinion section. remove the stepper so the set screws can be
tightened.
Press against the back of the carriage’s top plate
to push the pinion into the rack. Tighten the Once the stepper’s pulley is in place, the 50 tooth
bearing trucks’ #8 attachment screws to hold the belt is wrapped around both pulleys and the stepper
trucks into place. is installed.
The pulleys’ flanges prevent the belt from being
installed after the stepper is fixed into place.

It will be necessary to place the stepper on the


screw that is under the 36 tooth pulley and rotate
the entire stepper to give enough slack for the belt
to be installed.
Push against back of top plate to press The stepper is then set into place and the remaining
the pinion into the rack. screws are installed and tightened.

Y Pinion 80
The belt will still be loose; it will be tightened with Loctite on their threads after the rack is adjusted.
the idler. Securely tighten the long screws that tie the rack to
the gantry beam.
Install the stepper with its 12 tooth pulley and belt.
This completes the installation of the Y pinion
system. Stepper tuning directions are on page 104.
Install Idler (Pinion Version)
The Z stepper can now be installed and adjusted.
The idler is installed with a bolt and single nut. See page 85 for directions.
Washers are placed between the top plate and the
idler’s bearings to position the idler on the belt.
This idler’s construction directions are on page 30. Design Notes for the Pinion Assembly

The stepper and bearings are positioned so the


pinion will be pulled into the rack as the Y belt is
tightened.

A shorter top plate was made with an offset


stepper, but tensioning the belt pulled the pinion
out of square with the rack.
The idler is held in place with
a 5/16 x 1-1/2 inch bolt. Different pinion bearing placements also caused the
Washers space the idler from pinion to offset or loosen as the stepper’s belt was
the top plate.
tightened.

The stepper is turned at 45° so there will be room


for the idler-tensioner. Aligning the stepper square
with the top plate required the top plate to be
longer.

It is easier to tension the belt with the idler than it


would be to have the stepper move on its own plate
as is done with the Z axis.
Install idler.
A thinner wooden top plate flexes under the load of
The idler’s axle bolt can point up or down, the belt’s tension.
washers are needed on each side of the slot in the
top plate, otherwise the bolt’s head or nut will pull
into the slot and make adjustment difficult. Install Y Bearing Block (Y Leadscrew Version)

The idler can be pressed against the belt and The bearing block is held to the end plate with two
tightened into place at this time. Tightening the #8 x 1-1/4 machine screws and their nuts with
idler can press the pinion into the rack with more washers.
force. The screws are driven into the threaded holes in the
end plate. They are close to the wood gantry beam
Check for tightness between the rack and pinion. and it may be necessary to shave a fraction off of
The adjustment screws in the rack brackets are the edges of the beam’s trough for these two screws
used for further fine adjustment. They are turned to to be driven into their holes.
press the rack into the pinion. Use non-hardening

Y Pinion 81
Install the screws and loosely affix the bearing
block to the end of the gantry. See images below.
The bearing is not pressed into the bearing block at
this time and the bearing block is loose.

15 tooth pulley on leadscrew


with optional nut if the
leadscrew is long enough.

The leadscrew is passed through the gantry’s Y


Bearing block attached
stepper end plate, and passed behind the carriage.
to end plate.
The leadnut, which is already in its support block,
is screwed onto the leadscrew on the left side of the
carriage.

The flange of the leadnut may have to face away


from the carriage as shown in the drawing below;
larger leadnuts may not fit behind the carriage.
However, larger leadnuts will bump the end plate
before the carriage hits the X rail support.
Leadscrew bearing block Therefore, trimming the flange so the nut can fit
on end plate. behind the carriage can allow a fraction more Y
travel.

Leadscrew Installation

The Y leadscrew can be installed after the carriage


moves well on the gantry.

The System Comparison section on page 111


addresses some of the leadscrew options. A 3/8 -10
two start Acme rod worked well on the prototype.
Leadnut with leadscrew behind carriage.
A bearing is pressed onto the end of the leadscrew
The leadscrew is then passed through the bearing
and a washer and 15 tooth pulley are installed on
block on the other end plate.
the very end of the leadscrew.
Check at this time that the leadnut and its bracket
Fifteen tooth XL pulleys are used on both the
will clear the gantry. A variety of leadscrews and
leadscrew and stepper; they are available in a
leadnuts were tried with the prototypes including a
variety of bore sizes to match differently sized
5/8 inch ballscrew with its square ballnut, and a ½
leadscrews.
inch Acme Delrin anti-backlash leadnut, as well as
smaller leadscrews. All versions fit, but some
If the leadscrew is long enough, a nut can be put on
flanges had to be trimmed for clearance.
the leadscrew after the pulley. This will help with
the thrust load that will be carried by the pulley.
The Delrin nuts and leadnut block can be trimmed
by power sanding. The ballnut had to be rotated so

Y Leadscrew 82
its bearing return tube would clear the wooden Loosely attach the leadnut support block to the side
gantry. On the aluminum channel gantry, the 5/8 of the carriage with #8 nuts and washers. Larger
inch ballnut fit behind the carriage. washers will be required underneath the #8 washers
to cover the slots.

Note: Should there not be enough room for the Turn the leadscrew to pull the carriage to the Y
leadnut and its block, even after trimming the stepper end of the gantry.
leadnut block, the carriage can be moved farther
from the gantry by enlarging the holes for the By eye, align the leadscrew so it appears to be
truck’s #8 machine screws. The carriage can then parallel with the gantry and pipe rails. This is a
be pulled away from the gantry to give more rough adjustment; there is no need to take a lot of
clearance behind it. time with this step.

The carriage will have to be removed to do this, but Tighten the nuts that hold the leadnut support block
this process is easier than routing a deeper trough to the carriage. This will probably have to be
and reworking the hardware that pulls the pipe rails repeated, so do not firmly tighten the nuts, but they
into the gantry beam. should hold the leadnut block into position.

On the prototypes there was room enough for all Turn the leadscrew to move the carriage to the far
mentioned leadnuts, however the clearance was end of the gantry. A drill can be used to turn the
close for the larger ones, and slight variations in leadscrew; do not turn it rapidly or the leadscrew
construction could cause interference problems. may whip.

With the carriage as close as possible to the


After the leadnut and its support block are trimmed bearing block end of the gantry, tighten the nuts
to fit, re-install the leadscrew and leadnut, and pass that hold the bearing block into place. These also
the leadscrew through the bearing block. should not be permanently tightened at this time.

Press a bearing onto the leadscrew and into the Tighten the nut or clamp that is on the end of the
bearing block. leadscrew to remove any end to end movement in
the leadscrew.
Put a nut or clamp on the end of the leadscrew. The
nut should be barely tight enough to hold the The preliminary alignment is now complete.
bearing block into position, but not so tight as to Further adjustment is done after the stepper is
prevent the bearing block from easily moving. installed. The use of the stepper to turn the
The block’s position will have to be determined leadscrew makes the alignment process much
before the hardware is permanently tightened into easier.
place.
Install Y Stepper and Belt
The Y leadscrew stepper is fixed into position on
the end plate with four #8-32 x 1 inch machine
screws.
Its belt is tensioned by an idler rather than by
moving the stepper on a separate plate; this
simplifies construction and tuning.

The belt is a 110 XL x 3/8 inch wide; it has 55


teeth.
Bearing block installed with leadscrew.

Y Leadscrew 83
The flanges on the pulleys will prevent the belt
from being installed after both 15 tooth pulleys are
fixed into place. Therefore, the belt is installed as
the stepper is attached to the end plate.

End plate with belt, stepper and idler.

Belt and pulleys on Y leadscrew


axis. X bearings and rails not
shown.

Install Idler
The wires from the stepper must point away from
the gantry. The Z carriage’s tension rods pass The idler is installed with a bolt and single nut.
closely to the stepper and they will chafe the Washers are placed between the end plate and the
stepper’s wires otherwise. idler’s bearings to position the idler on the belt.
This idler’s construction directions are on page 30.
The thickness of the end plate does not permit the
stepper’s 15 tooth pulley to sit near the stepper.
Therefore, this pulley should have a hub. The extra
length of the hub allows the pulley to extend
beyond the end plate while the pulley is firmly
attached to the stepper’s shaft.

The end plate will probably block access to the set


screws in the stepper’s pulley, so it will be
necessary to install the pulley before attaching the
stepper to the plate.
Idler attached to end plate.
Hold the stepper into place while moving the pulley
into alignment with the leadscrew pulley, and then The idler’s axle bolt can point either way. Washers
remove the stepper so the pulley’s set screws can are needed on each side of the slot in the end plate
be tightened. to prevent the bolt’s head or nut from pulling into
the slot and making adjustment difficult.
Once the stepper’s pulley is in place, the 55 tooth
belt is wrapped around both pulleys and the stepper The idler can be pressed against the belt and
is installed. The #8 screws can be permanently tightened into place at this time.
tightened.
Tuning of the stepper is addressed on page 104.
The belt will be loose; it is tightened with the idler, This is done after all axes are complete.
which is done next.

Y Leadscrew 84
Install Z Stepper

After the carriage is on the gantry, the Z stepper


can be installed and adjusted. The height of the stepper is set by moving the nuts
and washers which sandwich the stepper plate.

The Z stepper is attached to its plate with #8


machine screws. The stepper’s wires should exit
the stepper toward the back of the carriage.

The 30 tooth belt is wrapped around the Z


leadscrew pulley and the stepper’s pulley as the
stepper plate is slid over the studs and carriage
bolts. The flanges on the pulleys prevent the belt
from being installed after the stepper plate is on the
Stepper on top of carriage. Z bolts.
rails and gantry are not shown
for clarity.
The stepper can be installed and adjusted at this
The stepper is coupled to the Z leadscrew with 12 time.
tooth XL pulleys and a 30 tooth x 3/8 inch wide
XL belt. The tuning of the steppers is addressed on page
104. It is done after all axes are completed.

Sequence Review

At this time the carriage is assembled and on the


gantry.

The gantry is assembled and on the X table.

The Y and Z steppers are attached to their axes and


are ready for final tuning.
Stepper with pulleys
and belt. The X table’s rails are tightened into place, and the
gantry rides smoothly on the X rails.
The belt’s tension is adjusted by sliding the stepper
mount on the studs and carriage bolts. The X drive systems can now be installed.

The X leadscrew systems begin on the following


page.

The X rack and pinion section begins on page 100.

Z stepper mounting components.

Z Stepper 85
The dual slaved stepper method was the least
Final Assembly of Leadscrew X Axis satisfactory. The speeds did not increase and it was
Introduction annoying to realign the gantry after one stepper
stalled.
The X axis can be driven with a pair of leadscrews
instead of racks and pinions. Leadscrews’ speeds Mach software permits axis slaving and can
are slower than those of racks but the prototypes automatically re-true the axis by backing it off of
were still able to rapid at 200 ipm with ½-10-5 the limit switches. The fact that this feature is
start, 2 turn per inch Acme rods. The speeds for included in the software indicates that this is a
other options are listed in the Systems Comparison common problem with slaved axes. This slaved
chart on page 111. system would be more satisfactory with servos and
encoders since position loss could immediately
Three methods of coupling the leadscrews to the trigger the table to stop. With steppers a missed
stepper(s) are included in these plans. step on one of the slaved steppers will not be
noticed by the electronics or software.
One system uses a single long belt which drives
both leadscrews with one stepper. Another annoyance with the slaved system is the
inability to move the axis by hand without using
the jog function. In this shop it is convenient to
disable an axis and manually set the router to
position. This is often easier than re-figuring
offsets or re-zeroing the axes in the software. Since
it is virtually impossible to hand turn two steppers
the exact same distance at the same time, the
Leadscrews driven by a single long belt. manual positioning was impractical, and as a result
Another method uses two belts from one stepper set-ups took longer.
with each belt driving one leadscrew.
The other two methods that used a single stepper
with one or two belts worked well.

The single long belt served well with the 3 foot


wide gantry, since the belt did not have to be
extremely long.

Leadscrews driven by two belts and one stepper. The dual belts also functioned well; they could be
used with tables that have a wider gantry so two
The third method slaves two steppers together with shorter belts, rather than one very long and
each stepper driving one leadscrew. This is done overpriced belt, could be used.
through the software, and requires an extra drive
and stepper. Two shorter belts plus the additional stepper pulley
tend to be less expensive than the one long belt.

A potential, but easily


remedied problem with
dual belts is it can be
difficult to tension both
Leadscrews driven by slaved steppers. belts by moving the single
stepper. This can
Idler near leadscrew
pulley.

X Leadscrews 86
be resolved by placing an extra idler near either of
the leadscrew pulleys. A slight offset of the belt Front Bearing Blocks
makes a substantial difference in the belt’s tension.
The front bearing blocks, like the other bearing
blocks on this machine, are made of 3/8 inch
Front Leadscrew Bearing Supports kitchen cutting board plastic.
They are drilled as shown.
The leadscrews extend
through the holes in the tops The large holes are drilled
of the legs and are supported with Forstner bits. The larger
by bearing blocks at the diameter recess is drilled first
front of the table. Right and the smaller hole is drilled
image. through the remaining stock.

The leadscrews are also These blocks support the


supported by anti-whip thrust load of the leadscrews, X leadscrew bearing
Leadscrew bearing
bearing blocks that are on supported in block. therefore, the smaller block. Two needed; one
the backs of all four legs. diameter shoulders should is mirrored.
Image below right. not be too thin. The bearing
does not have to be flush with the face of the block,
The leadscrews are tensioned so the shoulders can be thicker.
by nuts on the front of the
table as shown in the top The 1/4 inch hole in the block is for the first
image. attachment screw. The hole is oversized to allow
for adjustment. Once the leadscrew and leadnut are
aligned, a second attachment screw is driven
Bearing block behind
through the 1/8 inch hole to fix the block’s
leg.
position. Drywall screws of 1-5/8 inch with
washers or similar are used here.

Back Leadscrew Bearings Two of these blocks are required, one is a mirror
image of the one shown.
The back ends of the leadscrews are held into place
with the pulleys. Bottom image. These blocks are
sized for 1-1/8 inch
The leadscrew bearings at the back of the table are OD bearings. This
supported by recesses in is a common size
the 1 x 4 end plate. that has a ½ inch
bore. These are
The recesses in the back used with ½ inch
1 x 4 end plate do not Acme rod; the rod
permit the bearings to be does not have to be X leadscrew bearing block; 3/8
moved for alignment. All machined to fit in inch thick.
adjustments are done with these bearings.
the front bearing blocks.
These two blocks can be made at this time. One is
Bearing recessed in 1 x 4 a mirror of the other.
with pulley on leadscrew.

X Leadscrews 87
Anti-Whip Bearing Blocks X End Plate
These blocks are a homemade version of the The stepper or steppers, and the leadscrew bearings
commercial “End Fixity C” system which uses two are all supported by a 1 x 4 end plate that spans the
bearings at each end of the table’s two back legs.
lea dscr ew to lessen
whipping. They can make Recesses that serve as bearing supports are drilled
a substantial difference and in both ends of the 1 x 4. These two recesses and
are usually worth the time the pilot holes for attaching the 1 x 4 to the table
to install when small are the same for all three versions of the leadscrew
dia met er or l ong machine.
leadscrews are used.
Anti-whip bearing block.
The blocks are attached in Four required.
the notched section of the
legs as shown on the previous page, and are held
into place with drywall screws or similar. They are 1 x 4 end plate on back of machine.
fixed into position after the leadscrew alignment is
complete. The image below shows the 1 x 4 attached to one
leg and rail support. The pilots are for drywall or
The blocks are symmetrical on a diagonal so all decking screws which tie the plate to the table.
four blocks can use the same pattern. Mirroring is
not necessary.

Anti whip bearing block; 3/8 inch thick.


End of 1 x 4 X end plate showing the
locations of the leg, rail support,
The blocks are rotated so the narrower edges face bearing and pilots.
up and away from the table. They are 1-3/8 inch
wide and fit in a 1-1/2 inch recess, which leaves The bearings are supported in the 1-1/8 inch
room for adjustment. recesses and rest against the 7/8 inch stops. These
are bored with Forstner bits the same way as the
The construction directions for these are the same bearing blocks are drilled.
as for the blocks in the previous section.
The 1 x 4 is 36-7/8 inches long, it can be cut to
Make these now, four are required. length and the pilots and bearing recesses can be
drilled at this time. It is installed after the stepper
plate carriage bolts are installed. Their placement
varies for each belt system; these options are
covered next.

X Leadscrews 88
One Stepper with a Long Belt
Three holes are for 1/4 x 3 inch carriage bolts, and
The one belt system is the simplest design with the the upper left hole is for a 5/16 x 3 inch carriage
fewest components. One 15 tooth XL pulley is used bolt which serves as the idler’s axle.
on the stepper and on each leadscrew, and they are
coupled with a single long belt. The belt is 82.8 x This end plate can be cut and drilled at this time.
3/8 inches and has 414 teeth.

Leadscrews driven by a single 414 tooth belt.

This single belt method works well with narrower


machines, but long belts are costly as compared to Detail for stepper mount holes
a pair of shorter belts. in 1 x 4 for single long belt.

Long belts are not available in many different


lengths, therefore, a custom width machine should
be sized around the available belts. Using a pair of Stepper Plate
shorter belts instead of one long belt can permit
more width options. This single belt is tensioned by rotating the stepper
plate which swings around a 1/4 x 3 inch carriage
Also longer belts will rebound more than shorter bolt.
belts; this can contribute to backlash and chatter, Two other 1/4 x 3 inch carriage bolts also hold the
especially during heavier cutting. plate into position. The three carriage bolts are
firmly tightened to the end plate with nuts and
washers.
Long Belt End Plate A pair of nuts and washers on each bolt sandwich
the stepper plate and are moved along the carriage
The end plate is a 1 x 4 cut to 36-7/8 inches long. bolts to align the belt and stepper.
The bearing holes are drilled as described in the
previous X End Plate section. The plate can be made of a variety of materials
including 1/4 inch tempered hardboard, plywood,
The holes for the stepper plate and idler are shown cutting board, 16 gauge or thicker aluminum, or
in the image below and in the detail drawing. Lexan or similar.

X axis end plate for one stepper with one long belt. The pilot and bearing holes in the ends mirror each other.

X Leadscrews 89
The holes for the stepper in the plate can be marked
by using the stepper as the template, as shown on
page 29. There is a template for this plate at the end
of the manual.

Idler made of entire PVC coupler.

Though it is counter-intuitive, an hour glass shaped


idler will cause the flat belt to climb out of the
valley, A slight bulge in the center of the idler will
help the belt to remain centered on the idler. These
PVC couplers tend to be larger in the center than at
the ends. This works to the idler’s advantage.

The idler can be made and installed now.


Stepper plate for single long belt.
Radii are from the center of the darkened hole.
Installing the Belt and Stepper
The 11.63 degree angle shown at the top of the
plate does not have to be exact. The cut can be This is printed at this place in the plans because it
made with a miter saw that is set around 11 or 12 is part of the single belt system. However, the end
degrees. This can be easier than drawing the plate and leadscrews have to be in place before the
diagonal between the two sides and then trying to belt and stepper are installed. These sections begin
follow the line by hand. on page 95. Skip ahead, install those components
and then return to here.
This plate can be cut and drilled now.

The belt is wrapped around the mounting hardware


Idler for the Long Belt
and the idler as shown in the drawings below.
A fixed idler routes the belt around the stepper’s
pulley. This idler can be slightly offset to fit belts of
different lengths or tables of different widths.

The idler is similar to the tensioners used on the


other axes except this one uses an uncut ½ inch
PVC electrical conduit coupler. Bearings are
pressed into each end. Belt path around idler and drive
pulley.
The axle is a 5/16 x 3 inch carriage bolt which is
firmly attached to the 1 x 4 with a single nut and
washer. Two nuts are locked against each other to
hold the idler on the bolt.

This method is used rather than stacked bearings


because it is inexpensive and gives a larger
diameter than the skate bearings used by
themselves. This larger diameter keeps the belt from
bending as sharply and helps extend the belt’s life. Stepper for single long belt.

X Leadscrews 90
The pulley is attached to the stepper, and the
stepper is then slid onto the carriage bolts as the Stepper Plate for Two Belts
belt is wrapped around the stepper’s pulley. The
stepper is then tightened into position while the The two belts are tensioned by moving the stepper
slack in the belt is removed by rotating the stepper plate which slides on 1/4 x 3 inch carriage bolts.
and its plate. The three carriage bolts are firmly tightened to the
end plate with nuts and washers.

One Stepper with Two Belts A pair of nuts and washers on each bolt sandwich
the stepper plate and are moved along the carriage
The two belt system uses one belt for each bolts to align the belts and pulleys.
leadscrew. Two pulleys are on the single stepper.
The pulleys are all XL 15 teeth, and the belts are 39
x 3/8 inches and have 195 teeth.

Stepper on stepper plate.


Leadscrews driven by two belts and one stepper. Two
pulleys are on the stepper. The plate can be made of a variety of materials
including 1/8 inch tempered hardboard, 16 gauge or
This system requires that two pulleys be attached to thicker aluminum, or Lexan or similar. The plate
the stepper’s shaft. A hub-less pulley positioned has to be thin to permit belt clearance on the in-
close to the stepper, and a hubbed pulley on the end most stepper pulley.
of the shaft work well.
The holes for the stepper in the plate can be marked
by using the stepper as the template, as shown on
page 29. There is a template for this plate at the end
of the manual.

This plate can be cut and drilled at this time.

Two pulleys on stepper.

For steppers with short shafts a separate axle for


the pulleys can be made by drilling a 1/4 inch bore
in the end of a 5/16 inch bolt.

Holes drilled through the sides of the bolt will


permit the set screws from one of the pulleys to
tighten the pulley and shaft extension to the stepper. Stepper plate for single stepper with two belts.
The top corners are rounded for appearance.
Pulleys with a 5/16 bore are used with this
extension shaft.

X Leadscrews 91
before the belts and stepper are installed. These
Double Belt End Plate sections begin on page 95. Skip ahead, install those
components and then return to here.
The end plate is a 1 x 4 cut to 36-7/8 inches long.
The bearing holes are drilled as described in the
previous X End Plate section. The pulleys are attached to the stepper and the
stepper is attached to the stepper plate.
The holes for the stepper plate and idler are shown
in the drawing below and at the bottom of the page. Each of the belts wraps its pulley; the belts are
routed around the carriage bolts as shown in the
drawing below.

Belts go around the carriage


bolts.

The pulley on one of the leadscrews is spaced away


Detail of stepper mount holes in 1 x 4
from the leadscrew bearing so it will be aligned
for two-belt drive.
with the outmost stepper pulley.

Three 1/4 inch holes are drilled in the 1 x 4 for the A section of ½ inch copper pipe works well as a
carriage bolts that support the stepper plate. spacer between the pulley and the leadscrew
bearing.
The end plate can be cut and drilled now.
The belts are tensioned by moving the stepper plate
downward. Each belt should be tight to prevent the
Installing the Belts and Stepper teeth from skipping. An extra idler can be added
as shown in the introductory section.
This is printed at this place in the plans because it The belts, stepper and pulleys are installed after the
is part of the double belt system. However, the end leadscrews are in place.
plate and leadscrews have to be in place

X end plate for one stepper with two belts.

X Leadscrews 92
Two Slaved Steppers

The two stepper system is the most straightforward


mechanically, but it requires an extra drive and
stepper as well as software that is capable of
slaving the steppers.

Leadscrew driven by its own stepper.


Leadscrews driven by two steppers.

This system can be handy for wide tables that A pair of nuts and washers on each bolt sandwich
include positioning feedback systems such as is the stepper plate and are moved along the carriage
found on servos with encoders. bolts to align the belt and pulleys.
Steppers will occasionally lose position and the
slaved axes can introduce problems that outweigh The plate can be made of a variety of materials
their advantages. including 1/4 inch tempered hardboard, plywood,
cutting board, 16 gauge or thicker aluminum, or
One 15 tooth XL pulley is used on each stepper Lexan or similar.
and leadscrew; they are coupled with 55 tooth XL
belts; they are 3/8 inch wide. The holes for the stepper in the plate can be
The belts are tensioned by moving the stepper marked by using the stepper as the template, as
plates. shown on page 29. There are templates for these
plates at the end of the manual.
The software’s documentation should be consulted
for this system. The steppers have to work in The two plates can be made at this time. One
concert with each other. mirrors the other.
Mach will use the values for the slower axis as the
setting for both steppers.

Stepper Plates for the Slaved Steppers

The two belts are each tensioned by moving the


stepper plates which rotate on 1/4 x 3 inch carriage
bolts.
The three carriage bolts are firmly tightened to the
end plate with nuts and washers.

Stepper plate for use with two steppers. Two plates are
required; one is a mirror of the one shown.

X Leadscrews 93
before the steppers are installed. These sections
End Plate for Two Steppers begin on page 95. Skip ahead, install those
components and then return to here.
The end plate is a 1 x 4 cut to 36-7/8 inches long.
The bearing holes are drilled, as described in the
previous End Plate section. Each of the steppers with its pulley is attached to
its plate. The belt is wrapped around the leadscrew
The holes for the stepper plates are shown in the pulley and then around the stepper pulley as the
drawing below and at the bottom of this page. stepper plate is slid onto the carriage bolts.
The nuts are adjusted on the carriage bolts to align
the belt and pulleys, and the stepper plates are
rotated to tighten the belts. The nuts are then
tightened into place.

Detail for stepper mount holes in 1 x 4 for two steppers.


Other end is mirrored.

Each leadscrew driven by one stepper.


Three 1/4 inch holes are drilled in the 1 x 4 for the
carriage bolts that support the stepper plate.
The darkened area around the two left 1/4 inch
holes is a recess drilled from the back of the board.
The heads of the carriage bolts are pulled into the
recesses so they will not interfere with the 2 x 6
pipe rail support boards.

The end plate can be cut and drilled now.

Installing the Belts and Steppers


Belt path with dual steppers.

This is printed at this place in the plans because it


is part of the dual stepper system. However, the
end plate and leadscrews have to be in place

X axis end plate for two steppers. The ends mirror each other. The pilot and bearing hole locations are shown on the left and
the holes for the stepper plates’ carriage bolts are shown on the right.

X Leadscrews 94
Installation of X End Plate (All X Leadscrew Leadnut Angle Brackets
Versions)
The two X leadnuts
This 1 x 4 end plate can be attached to the table are held to the gantry
after the holes for the carriage bolts and leadscrew end plates with 1 x 1/8
bearings are drilled into it. The carriage bolts for inch aluminum angles
the slaved stepper mounts have to be in place that are cut to 4-1/2
before this board can be attached to the axis. inches long.

Bracket on end of gantry.


Each of the carriage bolts for the stepper plates is
tightened into the board with a washer between the
nut and the face of the board. This connection
should be so tight that the washer compresses the
wood.

This 1 x 4 is then glued and screwed to the back


end of the table with 1-5/8 inch drywall or decking
screws or similar.
The pilot holes in the ends of the board can be used
as guides for drilling the matching pilot holes in the
2 x 6 rail supports and legs. Leadnut angle bracket on end plate. The front of the
gantry is toward the right.
The ends of the board are
flush with both the Holes are drilled in the top of one
outside and the top of the leg of the angle to match the
legs. The top of the 1 x 4 attaching screws in the end plate.
will be ½ inch above the These holes are drilled oversized
top of the 2 x 6 rail to allow for adjustment; they can
support. be enlarged if necessary.

The 1 x 4 has to be firmly Leg and 1 x 4 are aligned. Holes are drilled in the bottom of
in place before the the other leg of the aluminum
leadscrews can be installed. angle for the flange of the
leadnut.
The leadscrews have to be installed before the
stepper(s) and belt(s) can be attached to this end The arrows in the drawing on the
plate. right point to the holes for the
machine screws that tie the
This 1 x 4 can be installed at this time. leadnut to the angle.
Angle brackets for
X leadnuts.
The position of these holes will
X Leadscrew Sequence Note vary with the different types of leadnuts. They will
also vary due to the way the gantry rides as
The leadscrews have to be aligned with the travel compared to the leadscrew. Therefore, these two
of the gantry. Therefore, the X leadnuts are holes are not drilled until the gantry, leadscrew and
addressed next, since they will position the leadnut are in place.
leadscrews.

X Leadscrews 95
The holes in the leadnut’s flange are drilled before
the leadnut is threaded onto the leadscrew. These
holes are then used to mark the position of the
matching holes in the aluminum angle bracket.

Leadnut on angle
bracket.

Leadnut bracket, holes for


The 5/8 inch diameter section of the aluminum end plate screws.
Leadnut leg of bracket.
angle bracket that is removed for the leadnut is Small hole locations are
open on the edge rather than being a closed hole. approximate and will be
This permits the angle bracket to be placed into drilled later.
position without removing the leadscrew.

The leadnut abuts the angle bracket rather than


projecting through it. Therefore, the hole only has
to clear the leadscrew. The 5/8 inch diameter hole
allows adjustment around a ½ inch diameter
leadscrew.

The two aluminum angles are cut and drilled as


shown. The locations of the small holes for the
leadnuts’ flanges are dimensioned for reference but
they will vary with each machine; they will be
drilled later.
The 5/8 inch hole can be drilled, and the hole’s
edge can be removed at this time. The two holes in
the top of the other leg can also be drilled.

Make these two angle brackets. One bracket is a


mirror image of the other. Leadnut angle as Mirrored angle
drilled at this time. bracket.

X Leadscrews 96
Cut X Leadscrews Leadnut Note

The leadscrews can be installed after the bearing The anti-backlash Delrin nuts can initially be
blocks are made and the 1 x 4 X end plate is extremely stiff; so stiff that the machine’s
installed. performance severely suffers.

The leadscrews are cut to length. They should be The leadnut can be broken-in by removing its
the length of the table with the 1 x 4 end plate (60- spring and collar before installing the leadnut on
3/4 inches) plus the thickness of the bearing block the leadscrew, and then turning the leadscrew to
(~3/8 inch), plus the nuts or end clamps (~1-1/4 move the leadnut from end to end.
inches), and the pulley (~1 inch). (Total ~63-3/8
inches.) This can be done by using a drill to turn the
The leadscrews on the prototypes were cut to 65 leadscrew while the leadscrew is supported by the
inches. holes in the tops of the legs. It will take a number
of end to end trips for the leadnut’s drag to lessen.
The leadscrews could also be cut to fit after they The movement of the leadnut will also pull debris
are in place if their ends are not going to be from the leadscrew’s threads; this dirt should be
machined. removed.

One of the leadscrews for the dual belt one After the leadnut can easily be turned by hand,
stepper system will need to be cut longer to allow remove it from the leadscrew, re-install the spring
its pulley to be positioned away from the 1 x 4 so and collar, and put the leadnut back on the
it will align with the second pulley on the stepper. leadscrew.

After the leadnut is on the leadscrew, slide the


Install Leadscrews second anti-whip block and bearing on the
leadscrew’s other end. Pass this end of the
The following directions are for one leadscrew; leadscrew through the hole in the remaining leg.
both are installed the same way.
Press a bearing into the 1
Slide an anti-whip x 4 and over the end of
bearing block with its the leadscrew.
bearing onto one end of
the leadscrew. The block Install and tighten the
should be toward the end pulley into place. The
of the leadscrew. hub of the pulley can be
Slide the leadscrew oriented toward the
through a front or back bearing. Pulley and bearing at
leg from the inside of the Leadscrew through leg 1x4.
table, that is, from the and bearing block. With a hub-less pulley a
notched side of the leg. washer will need to be placed between the pulley
and the bearing to prevent the pulley from rubbing
Thread a leadnut onto the leadscrew. The flange of against the bearing. A flattened lock washer or a
the leadnut should be oriented toward the front of section of ½ inch copper plumbing pipe can be
the table and the mounting holes should already be used as the spacer on a ½ inch leadscrew.
drilled in the flange.
The pulley’s set-screws may not seat well into the
leadscrew’s threads. Flats for the set-screws can be

X Leadscrews 97
filed into the leadscrews after the gantry is squared.
The pulleys final position will not be set until then. Install Leadnut Angle Brackets
Therefore, the set screws in the pulleys should not
be aggressively tightened into the leadscrews at this These directions are for one angle bracket. Both
time; but they should be tight enough to hold are installed the same way; they should be done one
position. at a time. The first one will have to be removed for
the second one to be aligned. The first one will then
be re-installed.
Slide a bearing block and
bearing over the front end of Move the gantry to the back of the table.
the leadscrew. Check to use
the correctly oriented Loosely attach the angle bracket to the end of the
bearing block, since the two gantry. It should be oriented with the leadnut leg
are mirrored. The block toward the back of the table.
should align with the leg; the
recess for the bearing will be The brackets are held to the end plates with #8 x 1
toward the outside of the inch machine screws which are threaded into the
Bearing block on end
machine. of leadscrew. end plates. The threads of the screws project
outward.
Thread nuts or a clamp onto the front end of the Nuts and washers pull the brackets against the end
leadscrew. A section of hose with a hose clamp will plates.
work for this clamp. Place a washer between the
hose and the bearing to prevent the hose from
pressing into the bearing’s seal.

Use the nuts or clamp to tension the leadscrew in


its bearings. There should be just enough tension to
barely hold the bearing block into position, but the
block should move easily. It is not a problem if the
leadscrew falls to the bottom of the hole in the leg
Leadnut bracket on end plate.
with the slightest twist or bump. Do not spend a lot
of time trying to adjust this tension; close is good
enough for now. The 5/8 inch hole in the bracket should be
positioned so it surrounds but clears the leadscrew.
The leadscrews will receive their final tensioning Any and all of the holes in the bracket can be
when the steppers are activated. altered to make the parts align.

Move the leadnut to the back end of the leadscrew. Tighten the bracket to the end plate; this is not yet
a permanent connection, but it should be tight
At this time the leadscrew should be in place and enough to hold the bracket to position.
should turn easily. The anti-whip bearings should
be rotated so they do not bind the leadscrew and With the leadscrew parallel to the X pipe rail, abut
are out of the way; they will be attached to the legs the leadnut to the angle bracket. Mark the position
later after the steppers are activated. of the leadnut’s flange holes onto the leadnut
bracket.
Install both leadscrews.
Remove the bracket from the end plate, and drill
the flange connection holes in the bracket. They
can be drilled oversized for later adjustment.

X Leadscrews 98
Reattach the angle bracket to the end plate, and tie leadscrew sections. The stepper for one long belt
the leadnut to the bracket with machine screws and is on page 90, dual belts is page 92 and dual
nuts with washers. All connections should be firm steppers is on page 94.
enough to hold position. Refer to these pages and install the stepper and belt
assembly.
Turn the leadscrew to move the gantry to the front
end of the table.
The process of installing the belt(s) will probably
Tighten the front bearing block into place with a pull the gantry slightly out of square; this is not a
single screw in the 1/4 inch hole. Use a washer problem. This is why the pulleys were not
with the screw to prevent the hole from centering permanently tightened to the leadscrews.
on the screw’s head.
The set screws on the pulleys can be loosened and
The leadscrew is now aligned with the movement the leadscrews can be turned independently of the
of the gantry. Fine tuning will be done after the pulleys. Once the gantry is square, the pulleys can
stepper is attached. be permanently tightened into place. It may be
necessary to remove the pulleys to file flats into the
Remove the nuts that hold the leadnut bracket to leadscrew’s threads. The mark left by the end of
the end plate and swing the bracket out of the way the set screw will indicate where the flat should be
of the machine screws so the gantry can move made.
without hitting the leadnut bracket. It may be
necessary to back the machine screws out of the The end plate connection holes in the leadnut angle
end plate to give the bracket enough clearance. bracket may have enough play that the final
squaring of the gantry can be done by moving the
Repeat this process to align the other leadscrew angle bracket rather than by turning a leadscrew.
and leadnut.
The final adjustment of the axis is done after the
Once both sides are completed, use the single steppers are powered and can be jogged with the
leadscrew to move the gantry to the back of the software.
table. Also turn the other leadscrew to move its
leadnut to the back of the table.
Sequence Review
Reattach the loose leadnut bracket to the end plate.
Each end of the gantry can now be moved by At this time the two outside bearing blocks are
turning a leadscrew. attached to the table’s legs with only one screw
each.
Square the gantry with the X axis. This is done by The anti-whip bearing blocks are not attached to
measuring from the end of the table and turning the the leg tops, but are hanging on the leadscrews.
leadscrews so both ends of the gantry are the same
distance from the table ends. This will be a rough The leadnuts are attached to the end plates.
alignment which can be fine tuned after the The leadscrews are in place and have been
machine is running. The belt(s) should not be tensioned only enough to hold position.
installed until the gantry is roughly square.
After all axes are assembled, the steppers can be
activated and fine tuning can begin. This is
Install X Stepper and Belts
addressed on page 104.
The directions for installing the belts, and steppers
with their plates and mounting hardware for all of The next section is for the X rack and pinion. It can
the leadscrew versions are covered in the previous be skipped when the X axis uses leadscrews.

X Leadscrews 99
For custom tables that have more travel than the
Final Assembly of Rack X Axis available length of the rack, it will be necessary to
trim and abut the shorter sections of rack so the
X Rack Supports, Introduction pinion will travel smoothly over the junction.

The racks cannot be installed on the X axis until the The racks are cut long by the supplier to permit end
gantry is in place. However, some of the work to dressing for abutment. This inch or so of extra
these components can be done before the gantry is material can be left on the racks; it will extend
on the rails. beyond the ends of the 48 inch long rack boards.

On the prototypes the extra material was placed so


it projected toward the back of the table; this was
done to remove a potential snag, and for
appearance.

Holes for #8-32 screws are drilled through the


racks. The holes can be drilled smaller and tapped
but the rack’s metal is hard and thick. It is
challenging to tap the holes without breaking the
small tap. Drilling 11/64 inch holes and using nuts
with the machine screws is easier.

The holes in the rack are


drilled near the middle of
Rack support
Rack and pinion with
the side between the teeth
system. End view. and the back. They should
gantry in place.
be far enough from the
Before work on the gantry begins, the pair of racks teeth that the screw heads
can be cut to length, if they need to be, and the do not overhang the teeth
holes can be drilled into them. and interfere with the
pinions. Use the screws Position the screws so
The rack support boards are made of ½ inch themselves to check this their heads do not overlap
plywood, and can be drilled to match the holes in positioning before marking the rack’s teeth.
the racks. and drilling the holes.

The rack-blocks are made of 2 x 2 and can be cut to The holes on the prototype are 7-1/2 inches apart.
length, but cannot be ripped to width. This gives even spacing with adequate support.

Directions for these components follow. Evenly spaced holes that were farther apart (around
11 inches) allowed the rack to flex. Holes that were
closer together did not seem to increase stability.
Racks
The loads on the rack on this machine do not
approach the rack’s ratings, so the holes do not
The racks are cut to length if needed. When a rack
have to be 4 inches apart as they are in the factory
is also used on the Y axis, a 6 foot section of rack
drilled units.
can be purchased and cut to the 4 and 2 foot
lengths; this saves a few dollars.
The racks can be cut and drilled now. The
dimensions are on the next page.

X Racks 100
Hole placement in racks. Holes are 3/16 inch from back of rack.

Rack-Boards
The holes are then marked through the rack’s holes
The rack support boards are made of ½ inch ply or and drilled. A board for each rack is required.
equivalent that is ripped to 4-3/4 inches wide. The holes in the bottom edge of the board are in line
See the figure below. with the top holes, but are 3/4 inch from the
board’s bottom edge. These holes are pilot holes for
They are 48 inches long, so they can be cut from the 1-5/8 inch drywall screws or similar.
end of a piece of plywood with no further cuts
necessary. The screws should have washers on them so they
will not dig into the wood when tightened.
The wood’s grain direction does not matter as long
as the machine screws that tie the racks to these two The bottom holes may need to be enlarged later so
boards will not tear out. the rack can be repositioned against the pinion.

The racks can be used as templates for the holes that These two boards can be cut and drilled before or
are drilled in the top edge of these boards. after the gantry is in place.

The rack is placed with the corner of its back flush The racks can also be attached to the boards at
with the top edge of the board; the rack’s teeth face either time. They are attached with 8-32 x 1-1/4 inch
the bottom edge of the board. See the image on the machine screws and nuts with washers.
preceding page.

Rack support board made of ½ inch plywood. Two are needed.

Rack Blocks The wood is ripped or planed to the proper width


after the gantry is on the X table.
The rack blocks cannot be ripped to width until the
gantry is in place and measurements can be taken Note that the holes in the rack block do not match
from the pinions. those in the rack board; this is so their mounting
screws will not interfere with each other.
The blocks are 48 inches long and 1-1/2 inches wide,
which is the width of framing lumber. Therefore, The rack is wider than it needs to be for the applied
these pieces can be ripped from lumber or made of loads, so the pinion does not have to make full
a length of 2 x 2; this has an actual dimension of 1- contact with the rack width-ways. It of course has to
1/2 x 1-1/2 inch. sit firmly in the rack to prevent backlash.

X Racks 101
It is important for the pinion to clear and not scrape On the prototype this measure is just over 1-1/8
against the rack-board. The rack also has to be inches. The value was rounded up to 1-3/16 inches
firmly pressed into the pinion’s teeth. so the pinion would not rub on the rack-board. The
rack block is ripped to this width.
The width of the rack blocks
is determined by placing a This distance will not always be the same for the
straight-edge or plumb-level entire length, or for both sides of the table. Measures
vertically against the end of should be taken from various locations for each of
the pinion and measuring the the two blocks; use the wider measures.
distance between the straight-
edge and the 2 x 6 rail These two blocks can be cut to length before the
support. gantry is on the table, but they cannot be ripped to
width and installed until the gantry is on the X axis.
Width of rack block.

Rack block dimensions.

Placement of rack assembly. The front of the table is on the left.

Install Rack Blocks on X Axis

The rack assembly is installed after the gantry is on These blocks are permanently attached to the table.
the X rails. The adjustment for the rack to pinion tension is
between these rack blocks and the plywood rack
The rack blocks should be cut to width as described boards.
in the previous section.

Attach the rack-blocks to the table with their tops Install X Racks
flush with the tops of the 2 x 6 rail supports. Roll the gantry to the front of the table and rest a
rack, with its 4-3/4 inch rack board attached, on the
The end to end positioning is 8-1/2 inches from the pinion. The other end of the rack assembly will rest
front of the table and 3-1/2 inches from the back of on the top of the back leg.
the table as shown above.
Screw and glue the rack blocks to the table with 2- Loosely attach the rack-board to the rack-block with
1/2 inch decking screws or similar. The screw heads one screw. The screw is driven in the hole that is in
must be countersunk into the rack blocks. the very end of the rack-board. A pilot hole for this

X Racks 102
screw can be drilled into the rack-block if necessary; backlash. Lash can be felt and heard as a clicking
the block may split without pre-drilling. rattle when the gantry is pushed by hand back and
forth on the X axis. Simply loosening one or more
Move the gantry to the other end of the axis. Be rack-board screws and pressing the rack into the
careful not to drag the pinion over the rack’s teeth. pinion will readjust the fit.
Slightly lift the rack assembly to give the pinion The holes in the rack-board will have to be enlarged
clearance while moving the gantry to the back of the to permit this adjustment.
X axis.
Firmly press the rack into the pinion, this should be
a tight mesh. Tightly screw the end of the rack-board Rack Board Tensioners
into the rack-block. Again, a pilot hole may be
needed here. The rack boards and racks
can be pulled down and into
Move the gantry along the axis and press the rack the pinions with brackets
into the pinion while tightening the remaining rack made of aluminum flat bar
board screws into the rack block. and threaded studs. These
pieces are optional, but they
The gantry will have to be moved slowly so the do make rack tension
pinion can turn as it moves along the rack. adjustment easier.

After one side is tightened, repeat the process on the Three units are used on each
other side of the axis. The pinion on the side that side; one is attached to the
was first installed can be loosened on its axle so the center of the rack block and
pinion can freewheel. This will make it easier to rack board and the others are
move the gantry on the axis while installing the attached near the ends.
second rack assembly. The tensioners consist of a
piece of aluminum flat bar Tensioner pulling rack
After both racks are installed, the X belt and idler that is cut and drilled as board down.
can be tightened into place; see page 77. shown.
This is screwed into the
The gantry may not sit square when at rest on the X bottom or the rack block
axis. The slightest offset with the bearings or end- with a wood or drywall
plates will cause the gantry to be pulled out of true. screw.
This is not a problem. The outside end is attached
to the rack board with a 2
The gantry is made square with the X axis by using inch stud that is cut from 10- Rack tensioner cut
a framing square and/or measuring the distance from 24 threaded rod. The rod is from 1 or 3/4 inch flat
the end of the X axis to the gantry. threaded into the edge of the bar.
rack board.
The pinions are tightened on their axles to hold the A 5/32 inch pilot hole is drilled into the edge of the
gantry square. Make sure to securely tighten the board and the stud is threaded into it. There is no
pinions into place, they can ruin a job should they need to tap the hole first. Glue on the threads of the
work loose while the table is working. stud will permanently secure it into the wood. A nut
pulls the board downward.
There should be no backlash between the rack and These can be installed and used to adjust the rack to
pinion once the rack boards and pinions are pinion tension.
tightened into place. It may be necessary to readjust
the rack after a few runs. The elasticity of the wood The X axis and rack assembly are now complete.
should compensate for some of the potential play. Information regarding stepper set up follows.
This junction should be checked occasionally for

X Racks 103
Steps per Unit

Steppers, Leadscrews, and Racks


The steppers’ top speed is usually well below 1000
The steppers are commanded to move the machine rpm, and 400 to 600 rpm is a more realistic value
by the drives, which receive signals from the with the small steppers used in these tables.
computer’s software.
The force that steppers can deliver rapidly
The signals sent by the software must match the diminishes as their speed increases. Therefore, the
actual movement of the machine, otherwise the machines should be designed to require the steppers
scale of the cut will be incorrect. to turn in the low 100s of revolutions per minute.
However the stepper’s power is still limited at slow
The software is configured to send a specific speeds, so the machine cannot be designed to move
number of step signals per unit of machine the table a long way with low rpms.
movement. This Steps per Unit value is entered
into the software’s set-up dialogue boxes.
Experience here has found that the small steppers
Derivation of these values is given in this chapter and drives from HobbyCNC and Xylotex give good
along with background information of the power up to 400 rpm with table movement below
components. 1-1/8 inch per stepper revolution.

The software’s documentation will probably also


address this. It is likely that the description there Micro-Stepping
and the presentation here will proceed differently,
but the final values will be the same. Micro-stepping is a process done by the drives and
software that sends multiple step signals to the
stepper for each one of the 200 native steps.
These machines were designed to allow flexibility
in the choice of leadscrews and racks and pinions; Most of the smaller drives offer micro-stepping
therefore, many Step-per-Unit values are possible. values of 2, 4, 8 or more; others offer 10 micro-
steps.
These values depend on the properties of the
steppers, micro-stepping, leadscrews, gearing and Micro-stepping is used to make the stepper turn
the racks and pinions. more smoothly, and to help reduce resonance.

This chapter describes the properties of each of Micro-stepping is also frequently used to enhance
these components. resolution. That is, to permit the machine to move
a smaller amount per step signal than the native
200 steps would permit.
Steppers
Micro-stepping can significantly reduce the
The steppers from Xylotex and HobbyCNC move delivered power of the stepper, so it is not always
1.8° per step; therefore, they must receive 200 a good way to improve resolution.
steps for one revolution.
There are 360° in a circle or one revolution. There are many myths about the value of micro-
360° divided by 1.8° per step = 200 steps per stepping; therefore, it is best to follow the
revolution. documentation supplied by the drive manufacturer.

Steppers 104
In this shop, micro-stepping is set to 8 for Xylotex, number is the diameter of the rod in inches, and the
10 for Geckos, and 2, 4 or 8 with HobbyCNC. second number is the number of threads per inch.
Different values work better with different Again, with these cheap rods the number of threads
machines. per inch and turns per inch are the same. This also
is true for general purpose Acme rod. Precision
It is important to note that older slow computers Acme rod is available in multiple starts as well as
cannot send the multiple steps fast enough for the single start.
machine to perform well, so using a larger number
of micro-steps can cause computer problems. The term “single start” refers to the number of
However, most computers that can handle continuous threads that are cut in the rod. A single
Windows XP are fast enough for any of the micro- start rod has one thread that winds down the entire
stepping values. length of the rod. The rod’s turns per inch and
threads per inch are the same value.

Examples: A two start rod has two parallel threads cut into
the rod. Rods are available with a variety of
Micro-stepping of 2 will cause the stepper to step numbers of starts.
400 times per revolution instead of the native 200.
Two steps are sent to the stepper for every one of To envision the starts, it may help to think of a
the 200 native steps. 2 x 200 = 400. barber pole or candy cane. The pole or cane can
have a red stripe and blue stripe, (or two starts).
Similarly, micro-stepping of 8 will require that the They are different stripes but they both spiral down
software send 200 x 8 = 1600 steps per every the pole together.
revolution of the stepper.
On leadscrews, the number of threads per inch,
divided by the number of starts, is the number of
Just to keep it confusing; micro-stepping is turns per inch.
sometimes defined as a fraction rather than as a
whole number. Thus, a micro-stepping value of ½
Note that TPI can be used to mean Turns Per Inch
usually means that 2 step signals are sent for every
and Threads Per Inch; this causes confusion. Take
native step. In this manual the number is always
care when ordering leadscrews.
referred to as a whole number.
This is mentioned because some documentation
will refer to micro-stepping as a fraction.
Examples:

A 2 start rod with 10 threads per inch will turn 5


Leadscrews, Turns and Threads per Inch
times to move the nut an inch. 10÷2=5
Leadscrews and threaded rods have a given number It has 10 threads per inch and 5 turns per inch.
of threads and turns per inch. These values
measure different aspects of the leadscrew. A 4 start rod with 8 threads per inch will turn 2
times to move the nut one inch. 8÷4=2
On inexpensive single start threaded rod, as is It has 8 threads per inch, but only 2 turns per inch.
found in hardware stores, the turns per inch and
threads per inch are the same value.
A 1/4-20 rod has 20 threads per inch, so it has to If the 2 turn per inch rod only had one start or
turn 20 times to move a nut one inch. thread, and thus was also a 2 thread per inch rod,
most of the rod would be bare with one very coarse
Other sizes of hardware store threaded rod include thread winding down its length. A nut would have
1/4-20, 5/16-18, 3/8-16, and ½-13. The first very little material to grab.

Steppers 105
A multi-start rod gives more threads for the nut to
grab, but it is able to move the nut with fewer turns Racks and Pinions
of the rod.
Racks and pinions tend to have the opposite
Multi-start leadscrews work well with steppers, problem of leadscrews. While leadscrews will
because they allow the nut to move farther with move the axes too little and too slowly, pinions will
each turn of the stepper. Remember, steppers do move the axes too far and too quickly.
not perform well at high rpm, so they can not turn
a fine threaded rod rapidly enough to move the A 1 inch pitch diameter pinion will move the axis
axis quickly. 1 multiplied by ð or 3.14 inches with each rotation
of the pinion. Compare this to the 1/20 to ½ inch
moved per rotation with the leadscrews.
Examples:
The small steppers lack the power to move the
A 1/4-20 threaded rod will only move the table 25 larger machines this far and fast with direct 1 to 1
inches per minute when turned at 500 rpm. drive. Therefore, gearing has to be used, which
500 rotations per minute ÷ 20 turns per inch = 25 adds cost and complexity to the system.
inches per minute. This is okay for a hobby
machine, but it is slow. Another disadvantage of this large travel per pinion
rotation is the lack of resolution. With a 1 to 1 gear
A leadscrew that has 2 turns per inch will move the ratio between the pinion and stepper, there would
table at 250 ipm when turned at 500 rpm. be 200 steps per 3.14 inches of axis travel.
500 ÷ 2 = 250. 3.14 inches/rotation ÷ 200 steps/rotation = 0.016
However, the smaller steppers usually cannot drive inch of axis movement per step.
the table that quickly due to the inefficiency of the
leadscrew, but they still outperform the leadscrews This can be improved with micro-stepping, but as
that have a higher number of turns per inch. mentioned previously, this is not always the best
way to improve resolution. So again, gearing is
There is more information about the speeds of required for the axis movement to be in concert
different leadscrews in the chart on page 111. with the capabilities of the steppers.

Experience here has found that axis movement on


Cutting speeds above 60 ipm will help prevent the these machines is best kept around or below 1 inch
bit from burning the wood, and speeds of 100 ipm per stepper rotation. With 3 to 1 gearing, where the
approach all that a small trim router can do. stepper turns 3 times for every one turn of the
pinion, the axis will move just over one inch with
Faster speeds require the depth of cut to be reduced the 1 inch diameter pinion. Thus, a 3 to 1 ratio is
to keep from overloading the router, or the small used on these pinion machines.
steppers, or the inexpensive CNC machine itself.

Racks and pinions allow the machine to be quite


The hardware store rods cannot move the machine fast. At 1.05 inches of travel per stepper rotation
very fast; multi-start leadscrews will give better the table will move over 500 ipm with the stepper
speeds. The catch is the multi-start rods are not turning at 500 rpm. Again, the smaller steppers do
hardware store items and they are not cheap. not have the power to move the machine this fast.
Therefore, the budget has to be considered when The chart on page 111 gives the speeds that the
making the leadscrew choices. Speed costs. Xylotex system achieved.

Steppers 106
These speeds sound appealing but they can cause Some software requires that this value be entered
problems. as the resolution rather than the Steps per Unit.
The resolution is simply the reciprocal of the Steps
Jogging the machine this rapidly can make set-ups per Unit; that is, one divided by the Steps per Unit.
annoying, since the table moves so far and fast
with each tap of the jog key. Most steppers require 200 steps per one revolution.
It is necessary to toggle out of continuous jog and The micro-stepping value will be determined by the
into incremental jog to move the table a small drive. Use the value recommended by the drive
amount without re-setting the jog speed. This takes supplier.
time and is easy to forget. What was supposed to The turns per inch of the leadscrew is the thread
be a small jog can turn into yet another bit breaker count divided by the number of starts, as was
or surface gouger. previously addressed.

Another factor is the table moves so abruptly that Here are two examples that represent extremes.
it vibrates itself apart. Set-screws slip, parts
loosen, and the steppers miss steps as they whip the A standard stepper with 16 step micro-stepping
machine from one direction to the other. and a 20 turn per inch leadscrew.
Just because a table can move rapidly does not
mean that it is the best way to run it. 200 steps per rotation x 16 micro-steps x 20 turns
Tables in this shop are kept around 100 ipm. This per inch = 64000 steps per inch.
is a good speed for routing, and it is not rough on This is the value that is entered into the software’s
the machine itself. Steps per Unit box.
This abruptness of motion can be alleviated by The resolution is 1/64000 = 0.0000156 inch per
lowering the acceleration of the axis. This is done step.
in the software. In Mach the acceleration Every step signal sent to the drives will move the
adjustment is with the speed adjustment. The slider machine 0.0000156 inch. This of course is far
can be moved to alter the way the machine smaller than the machine can be expected to move.
behaves. The backlash value will be larger.

Determining Steps per Inch (Leadscrew) A leadscrew example at the other extreme.

As already mentioned, the software has to know A standard stepper with no micro-stepping and a 2
how far the machine moves with each step signal turn per inch leadscrew.
that is sent to the drives.
200 steps per inch x 1 micro-step per step x 2
With direct drive leadscrews the math is turns per inch = 400 steps per inch.
straightforward. The factors needed to determine Resolution is 1/400 = 0.0025 inch per step.
the Steps Per Inch include:
The machine will move 0.0025 inch per step. This
Steps per revolution of the stepper. value is in line with the backlash values of
The micro-stepping value. inexpensive leadnuts.
The turns per inch of the leadscrew.
From these examples it becomes evident that most
These values are multiplied together to give the any micro-stepping value and leadscrew will give
Steps per Unit value that is entered into the a resolution that is as good as the machine can
software’s dialogue box. physically hold.

Steppers 107
The stepper turns 3 times for every 1 turn of the
In the For What It Is Worth department: pinion.

Five turns per inch is a common size for The inches the pinion moves in the rack per one
leadscrews and ballscrews. pinion rotation is found by multiplying the pinion’s
This size works well with 200 step per revolution pitch diameter, which is given in the suppliers’
steppers. specifications, by pi, or 3.1416.
The pinions used in the prototypes have a pitch
200 steps per revolution x 5 turns per inch = 1000 diameter of 1 inch and 3/4 inch.
steps per inch. The resolution is 1/1000 or 0.001
inch per step. This is with no micro-stepping.
This value of 1/1000 inch is a realistic backlash Note: Use a calculator and do not round the values.
value to expect from a moderately priced CNC The software can handle multiple places behind the
table. decimal, and rounded values can alter the
machine’s accuracy.
The speed of this machine with the stepper turning
at 500 rpm will be (500 rpm ÷ 5 turns per inch =) Values are rounded in this section for simplicity.
100 inches per minute, which as previously
mentioned, is a good speed for a homemade
machine. The 1 inch pinion will move 1 x ð = 3.14 inches
per pinion rotation.
The 3/4 inch pinion will move 0.75 x ð = 2.36
In summary, the steps per inch of a direct drive inches per rotation.
leadscrew machine is the number of steps per
rotation of the stepper, multiplied by the micro- For the pinion to turn once, the stepper will have to
stepping as a whole number, multiplied by the receive the number of steps it needs to turn once,
number of turns per inch of the leadscrew. multiplied by the gear ratio as a whole number.

With a 200 step stepper, and 8 micro-stepping


Determining Steps per Inch ( Rack and Pinion) (which is what Xylotex recommends) and a 3 to 1
gear ratio, the stepper will have to receive (200 x 8
The step per inch value for racks and pinions is a x 3 = 4800) steps from the drive and computer to
little more complex than for direct drive turn the pinion one time.
leadscrews, but the basic ideas are the same.
This value will then have to be divided by the
The necessary values include: number of inches the pinion turns in one rotation to
Steps per rotation of the stepper. give a value that is per inch rather than per 3.14
Micro-stepping as a whole number. inches, for example.
Gear ratio between the stepper and the pinion.
Inches the pinion moves per one pinion rotation. 200 x 8 x 3 / 3.14159 = 1527.887454 is the
number of steps per inch for the 1 inch pinion with
The first two values are straightforward and are 8 micro-stepping.
just like the stepper and micro-stepping values used
with the leadscrews. For the 3/4 inch pinion the value is:
200 x 8 x 3 / 2.35619449 = 2037.18327
The gear ratio is the number of teeth in the large These values are to be entered into the Steps per
pulley divided by the number of teeth in the Unit field in the software.
stepper’s pulley. On these machines the pulleys are
36 and 12 teeth for a ratio of 3 to 1.

Steppers 108
Again their reciprocals are the resolution. incrementally with one component at a time to find
For the 1 inch pinion the value is the causes of drag and binding.
1/1527.887 steps per inch =
0.0006545 inch per step.
Each axis is tuned one at a time. Tuning is a trial
For the 3/4 inch diameter pinion: and error procedure and is best achieved by
1/2037.18327 steps per inch = working incrementally and in a sequence.
0.000490874 inch per step.
The steps in the sequence include:
As with the leadscrew machines, these values are
better than the machines can physically hold. Align the leadscrew with the movement of the axis.
Align the leadnut with the leadscrew.
Tension the leadscrew.
In summary the steps per inch of the axis is: Permanently secure the components.

Steps per rotation of the stepper, multiplied by The sequence begins with aligning the leadscrew by
micro-stepping as a whole number, multiplied by using the leadnut to transfer the position of the
the gear ratio as a whole number, all divided by the fixed end of the leadscrew to the bearing block end
inches the pinion moves in one rotation. of the leadscrew.

This has already been done in the initial alignment


Final Tuning, Leadscrews and it may not be necessary to repeat the process.
The final tuning process is straightforward; it
repeats the steps already undertaken for the initial Turning the leadscrew with the stepper makes this
alignment, but the steppers are used to speed the process faster and easier.
work.
The leadscrew alignment procedure follows:
The leadscrew axes should all be assembled, and
the steppers should be configured and working. Align the leadscrew by eye so it appears to be in
line with the rails.
Move the axis to the stepper end and temporarily
tighten the leadnut into place.
X Axis Note:
Turn the leadscrew to move the axis to the far end
of the axis. The leadnut will support the leadscrew
The leadscrews are first adjusted independently of
and pull it into position.
each other.
Temporarily tighten the leadscrew’s bearing block
With the single belt system it will be necessary for
into place. The leadscrew is now roughly in line
both leadscrews to turn, though only one is tuned at
with the travel of the axis.
a time. The leadnut bracket on the side not being
tuned can be loosened so it will move with the
The leadnut is then firmly secured into place at the
gantry, but will not introduce drag due to
axis to bracket connection, and at the bracket to
misalignment.
leadnut connection. This is done with the leadnut at
On the other two belt systems, the leadnut bracket
the stepper end of the axis, since this end of the
can be swung away from the gantry end plate so
leadscrew is not adjustable.
the gantry can move freely while the one leadscrew
is still.
The axis is jogged from end to end at slow speeds
while checking for points where drag is most
After initial leadscrew alignment, both leadnuts are
pronounced. The excess resistance will cause the
attached to the gantry and both sides are tuned
stepper to stall.
together. Again, it is important to work

Steppers 109
Sometimes the causes of misalignment are inch = 0.0133 inch per pulley tooth. The pulley can
challenging to find. In these situations starting the be turned in its loosened belt.
process from the beginning and jogging the axis For finer adjustment the connection between the
while incrementally tightening the components will leadnut bracket and the end plate can be adjusted,
usually remove the problems. or the pulley’s set screws can be loosened and the
leadscrew can be turned.
Occasionally the final tightening of a screw will
introduce drag. This indicates that there is a slight
misalignment at that specific place. The stepper’s speed is increased while testing for
This usually happens with leadnuts that are not unrestricted movement.
made from Delrin. Metal nuts are less forgiving in
alignment. Using shims made from aluminum cans At some point the maximum speed for the axis will
or similar, to offset a nut or its bracket, can resolve be reached. The stepper will be unable to
the problem. dependably move the axis at that speed without
stalling. The speed is backed down and all of the
The adjustments can be made between the leadnut components are checked for secure attachment.
and its bracket, and between the bracket and the
axis. This process is used to align all of the leadscrews.
Each leadscrew will behave differently and the
Again, a minor offset can cause problems; the settings in the software may be different for each
solution can be as simple as loosening and re- axis even when identical leadscrews, nuts and
tightening the component, or it may require steppers are used.
enlarging and realigning the attachment holes, or
using shims to achieve the proper alignment.
Drive System Comparisons
After it is clear that the leadscrew is in line with the
axis, the end bearing block is permanently secured The chart on page 112 lists some of the real world
into place; on the X axis this is done with a drywall results of the machines in these plans. As is
screw in the second hole in the bearing block. On expected, speed costs.
the other axes this is done by tightening the bearing
blocks‘ #8 nuts on the machine screws. Belts are the most efficient option, but they
rebound with rapid movement. They wear over
The anti-whip bearing blocks on the X axis are time and their tension has to be checked regularly.
secured into place. Drywall screws with washers Long belts stretch and are not suitable for very
can be used here. long axes and aggressive cutting. Long belts are
also somewhat costly. Therefore, this table does
The leadscrew is tensioned with the nuts or a clamp not use belts; they are mentioned for comparison.
at its end.
The leadscrew should be tight enough to not move Racks are fast but the rack to pinion mesh has to
end to end, it cannot be tightened too firmly or the be maintained. Racks are useful for very long axes;
bearings will be overloaded. the racks can be abutted to one another for infinite
length. Their backlash tends to be worse than
leadscrews.
The X leadscrew axis’ gantry should be checked
for square. It can be brought to square by Racks are faster than leadscrews, but the necessary
loosening the drive belt and turning a pulley. gearing adds complexity. On this machine the cost
of parts is similar for both options, though high
Each tooth on the pulley will be 1/15 of the quality leadscrews will boost the price.
distance the axis moves per full leadscrew rotation.
On a 5 turn per inch leadscrew, this is 1/15 x 0.2

Steppers 110
Ballscrews are fast but expensive. The cheapest Allthread is the slowest leadscrew, both because of
ones have backlash in the 0.003 inch range. Their its rough surface and because of its high thread
6 foot maximum length limits table travel to around count.
5 feet. Longer screws are available but costly. Anti-backlash nuts are available for the smaller
Unlike Acme and Allthread, ballscrews are not of diameter Allthread rod. Half inch diameter rod’s
a diameter that can be securely slid into a standard surface is so rough that Delrin anti-backlash nuts
bearing; therefore, their ends have to be machined do not work well with it.
to fit. Threads also have to be cut into their ends so
they can be tensioned into their support bearings. Over-driving Allthread was attempted here in an
This extra machining adds significantly to the cost effort to achieve faster cutting speeds. The rods are
of ballscrews when a metal lathe is not at hand. inefficient and the results were disappointing.
It is possible to cobble a bearing and tensioning There seems to be no easy way to get better
system, but it is unlikely to take full advantage of performance out of a cheap rod.
the ballscrew’s potential. Using ballscrews on a
wooden hardware store machine may not be the These products were tested with a Xylotex 420
best use of resources. oz.in. stepper and drive package. A damper was on
the stepper to improve performance by reducing its
Multi-start precision Acme threaded rod with anti- resonance.
backlash nuts are fairly fast and have respectable
backlash values. The Delrin anti-backlash nuts can
add drag, but this can diminish over time. Comparison Table

These nuts will flex under severe loading, and The values listed in this table are primarily for a
permit chatter, so they are not suitable for heavy single leadscrew, rack, or belt axis with 2 feet of
work. However, they work well on tables made travel.
with hardware store materials. As with ballscrews,
Acme rods over 6 feet long are not always sold by These speeds were on a Y gantry axis; X speeds
retail suppliers, and they are expensive. are similar when using two racks, belts or
leadscrews, but doubling the number of
Standard Acme threaded rods are cheaper than components adds to the cost and slightly slows the
multi-start Acme rods. They are easier to use movement.
because standard Acme nuts are available for
mounting. The speeds are fair, but slower than The listing is primarily in order by speed of rapids
those of multi-start Acme rods. with the fastest at the top of the chart. Cutting
speeds were slower. Every option that could rapid
Standard Acme nuts can be used as leadnuts, but over 100 ipm could also cut at 100 ipm.
on larger diameter rod the backlash approaches
0.006 inches. Delrin anti-backlash nuts are All systems use a pulley on the stepper, with
available for standard Acme rods. They are more another on the pinion axle, or leadscrew. The
forgiving to align than metal leadnuts. coupling pulley and belt prices are similar with all
systems in this chart.
Standard hardware store Allthread threaded rod is
the cheapest threaded rod available. It is simple to The coupling systems without a 1 to 1 ratio are
use since a variety of nuts are available including slightly more expensive due to the one larger
tee nuts and rod couplers. The backlash values of pulley. All support bearings were homemade and of
rod couplers as leadnuts are surprisingly good. comparable price, whether for pinions or
leadscrews.
As with standard Acme rod, the availability of
standard sized nuts makes Allthread leadscrew
installation and tensioning easy and inexpensive.

System Comparisons 111


N ote: Prices vary considerably between suppliers, prices are listed for general comparison.

D istance R apid Speed G ear R atio: Max Price for 2 ft T otal N otes
(inch) per one Stepper turns to Stepper of travel
stepper turn Inches per screw or pinion rpm 3ft screw
Minute turns 2 ft rack

Belt drive 1.125 inch 500+ 4 to 1 444 $25 Belt Bounce, but minimal backlash,
L x 3/4" $15 Pulley $40 fast, quiet, extra idlers and tension
system required.

R ack 1.05 485 (on X dual 3 to 1 461 $15 rack, $28 Minimal backlash, fewer components
1" pinion racks and pinions) $13 pinion than belt drive, not as fast as belt.

R ack 0.79 350 3 to 1 440 $15 rack, $28 Minimal backlash, slower than larger
0.75" pinion $13 pinion pinion but still fast. E asier to install
with smaller bearings, inexpensive for
speed.

5/8" Ballscrew 0.2 180 1 to 1 900 $46 leadscrew, $70+ 0.002 backlash, noisy, fast, requires
5 tpi $24 ballnut large bearing mounts and machining
C heapest (not preloaded) of screw ends.
Ballscrew Most expensive but gives good speed
Available and cutting forces.

5/8" Ballscrew 0.32 250 1 to 1.6 781 $46 leadscrew, $70 0.002 backlash
5 tpi O verdrive $24 ballnut faster rapid, cutting force similar.

½ -10-5-2 A cm e 0.5 200 ipm 1 to 1 400 $28 screw $53 N ut must break-in. G ood backlash.
two turns per D umpster nut $25 nut Easy to align. O ne of the faster
inch choices.

3/8-10-2 start 0.2 126 1 to 1 $28, screw, $43 0.002 backlash, small bearing
precision A cm e D umpster nut 630 $15 nut mounts, machining of screw ends not
mandatory. Simpler and less
expensive than ballscrew,
cutting speed above 100 ipm .

3/8-10-2 start 0.225 126 1 to 1.125 494 $28, screw, $43 N o noticeable difference with
precision A cm e D umpster nut O verdrive $15 nut minimum overdrive.

3/8-10-2 start 0.32 146 1 to 1.6 456 $28, screw, $43 Little faster, forces still okay.
precision A cm e D umpster nut O verdrive $15 nut

1/2-10 A cm e 0.1 78 1 to 1 780 $7 screw, $9 Acme nut loose, worse backlash of all
standard S tandard A cm e $2 nut listed options, 0.006+ backlash. R ods
nut straight, solid, cheap. (Enco)

1/2-10 A cm e 0.1 45 Dumpster nut 1 to 1 450 to $7 screw, $22 Minimal backlash but initially VERY
standard up to 80 after nut 800 $15 nut stiff nut. Not very high cutting forces
wore in. because of drag from nut. Improved
significantly with use.

3/8-12 A cm e 0.0833 53 Acme nut 1 to 1 636 $13 screw, $15 .004 backlash rods arrived very bent,
standard $2 nut bad whipping.

3/8 -16 Allthread 0.0625 60 Allthread nut 1 to 1 960 $2.75 screw, $3 0.004 backlash not bad for cost, can
$0.25 nut choose straight rod at store.

5/16-14 A cm e 0.071 55 Acme nut 1 to 1 770 $25 screw, $27 Easy to install, performance is only
standard $2 nut fair, but a little faster than allthread.

5/16-18 0.0555 45 Allthread nut 1 to 1 810 $2.50 screw, $3 C heap simple but slow, backlash
Allthread $0.50 nut comparable to 3/8" and 5/16"
standard acm e, better than 1/2" acm e
nut. Sm all diameter allows direct
coupling to stepper.

System Comparisons 112


Material and Design Considerations
These machines were designed around hardware Material Young's Modulus (E)
in lbf/in² (psi)
store and lumber yard materials to keep prices low
and construction simple. Low D ensity Polyethylene 30,000

H D PE 200,000

Wood and Aluminum MD F 530,000

T empered Hardboard 588,000


As shown in the chart, there is a large range in the
rigidity of the materials that are frequently used for O ak 800,000 - 1,600,000

homemade machines. The values in the chart are Sheathing Plywood 1,000,000 - 1,900,000
from a variety of sources including manufacturers, Spruce-Pine-Fir 1,000,000 - 1,900,000
and building codes.
Yellow Poplar 1,200,000 - 1,500,000

Interestingly, and against common wisdom, the Birch 1,200,000 - 1,900,000


chart indicates that MDF is one of the poorest
choices in terms of rigidity, though it is smooth and
Southern Yellow Pine 1,200,000 - 1,900,000

stable. H ard Maple 1,300,000 - 1,900,000

It is also notable that, in terms of bending, a good Aluminum Alloy 10,000,000


pine 2 x 4 or joist can perform as well as a piece of
oak or maple. W rought Iron and Steel 30,000,000

The Modulus of Elasticity of steel is three times


Simple tests conducted in this shop are consistent
that of aluminum, and aluminum’s is 5 to 12 times
with the chart.
that of wood. These values are determined across
a given area, which of course means that a thick
Solid wood is stiffer than MDF, hardboard and
board can be as stiff as a thin piece of metal.
plastics.
Aluminum flat bar and angle of 3/4 and 1 x 1/8
Solid wood along the grain is stiffer than plywood,
inch are used in all of the machines for bearing
but across the grain it is more flexible than
trucks, braces and cross ties. These sizes are
plywood.
hardware store items that are usually locally
available.
Different types of plywood performed similarly.
Pine core sheathing ply was just as stiff, or even
stiffer, than poplar or spruce-pine-fir core
plywood. The raw material’s dimensions of this machine’s
gantry and carriage were sized to be the same as
The number of ply layers did not make an stock sizes of aluminum flat bar; therefore,
appreciable difference in rigidity for the same substitution is straightforward.
thickness of plywood.
The aluminum version has been prototyped, and it
Multi-ply plywood, cabinet ply, did have a better is stiffer than the wooden models. It can handle
surface and was more consistent in its quality, but more aggressive cuts before chatter becomes a
it was no stiffer. problem. The aluminum adds around $200 to the
price.
This indicates that well chosen sheathing ply and
framing lumber can work as well as any other Notes regarding the alterations necessary for the
wood, and the prices are lower. aluminum version are on page 132.

Materials and Design 113


which is close enough to 5/16 x 7/8 inch to be used
Rails with 5/16 inch leadscrews and homemade 7/8 inch
bearing blocks. These bearings are often locally
The rails on which the X and Y bearings ride are available from sports shops and department stores.
3/4 inch Inside Diameter gas pipe. This is
inexpensive and easily found. It is not as hard as Skate bearings are available in a range of quality.
other choices, and tracks will be pressed into the Anything that has an ABEC rating has worked
pipe’s surface by the bearings. These tracks will well. Bearings without any rating can be of low
stabilize once they widen. quality; their cases can be too thin to ride the rails
It may be necessary to readjust the bearings’ without fatiguing and failing.
tension after the first hours of use. Simple
adjustment systems are built into the machine. There are no thrust bearings used in these
machines. The machine’s thrust loads and cutting
Drill rod can be used in place of the gas pipe. It forces are within the standard bearings’ ratings.
would be tapped rather than drilled for the stud
connections. It is smoother and harder than gas
pipe, but it is not available in longer sections and is Leadscrews
not found at home centers.
There are many options for the leadscrews, they
Round pipe rather than square tubing is used can range from 5/16 inch threaded rod to ½ inch
because a round surface is more forgiving of multi-start precision Acme rod. A ballscrew was
bearing misalignment as well as of installation also tested on the prototypes, but its price was hard
offsets. Also the surfaces of standard steel tubing to justify on a wood and gas pipe machine.
are frequently scuffed and dinged from handling.
The sizes preferred here on the prototypes were 3/8
The rail to beam connection system has been inch two start on the Z and Y axes and ½ inch on
redesigned in this machine as compared to the other the X axis. The ½ inch had minimal whipping
machines shown on the website. The other rails rest problems for the longer axis.
in cradles made of small metal channels.
Channels of the proper size are not easily available The chart in the previous section lists performance
internationally, and they add cost; therefore, they and cost information for a variety of leadscrews.
were eliminated on this machine.
The Acme and Allthread leadscrews can fit inside
Simply tightening large studs into the rails and standard bearings without machining. This
beams has proved to be as stable as the channel simplifies construction since a metal lathe is
method. This system does not require tapping the unnecessary.
pipe rail, and it is more forgiving of hole The machine’s X and Y axes are sized to use both
misalignment since the stud can swivel in its 7/8 and 1-1/8 inch OD bearings which are
mount. available with bores that will fit these leadscrews.

Note that some multi-start Acme leadscrews of a


Bearings given diameter may not fit inside bearings of the
same named size. This can usually be remedied
Standard sized bearings were chosen for all with a little hand filing of the leadscrew; the screw
applications so they would be easy to find from a can also be turned with a drill while sanding or
variety of online suppliers including vxb.com and filing the threads. Do not use a powerful drill for
skatebearings.com. this sanding; fingers can be caught and wrapped
around the rod should the drill fail to stall.
Skate bearings, size 608 bearings, are used to ride
the rails on all axes. The bearings are 8 x 22 mm

Materials and Design 114


be kept to a lower ratio. This permitted the use of
Belts and Pulleys smaller pulleys which are less expensive and allow
a more compact machine.
The leadscrews and pinion axles on all axes are
coupled to the steppers with XL belts and pulleys. Pinions can ratchet on the racks and lose position.
Heavier L pulleys are not available with bores This is addressed on this table by positioning the X
small enough for the NEMA 23 steppers, and racks above the pinions so the uplift from
MXL belts are not rated for the low-speed forces aggressive cuts presses the pinions firmly into the
that the steppers can deliver. racks.

Fifteen tooth pulleys are used because they are The steppers will stall and other parts will flex
available in a variety of bore sizes. This allows before the pinions skip teeth. However, it is
differently sized leadscrews to be used while using important to check the rack to pinion junction for
the same belt lengths and gear ratios in all versions. backlash, and to occasionally readjust the fit.

Fifteen tooth pulleys also permit over six belt teeth


to be in contact with the pulleys at all times, so Table Sizing
ratcheting and tooth stripping are less likely.
The machine is dimensioned to efficiently use 5
Twelve tooth pulleys are used on the Z axis to save
foot pipes and 4 foot racks on the X axis, and 3
space; the leadscrew is small enough that a large
foot rods and a 2 foot rack on the Y axis.
bore is unnecessary. Twelve teeth is the minimum
recommended tooth count by the manufacturers,
The lengths of the X and Y axes can easily be
though 10 tooth pulleys are available.
altered.
The length of the X axis can be changed without
A belt and pulley coupling was chosen because it
making any modifications to the other axes.
is more forgiving in its alignment than many direct
Altering the Y axis will require reworking the
drive systems. It also has less backlash than lower
width of the X axis.
priced spider coupling systems.
The most straightforward way to change the size of
the machine is to add, or subtract, the difference
The cost of the short belts and small pulleys is on
between the prototype’s size and the desired size, to
par with low cost spider couplers, and the cost is
the dimensions given in these plans.
significantly less than precision direct drive
couplings.
The relationships between the sizes of the
machine’s components are given in the following
A belt and pulley system also offsets the stepper
sections. This can be tedious to read. Again the
from the leadscrew and rails. This permits more
simplest way to alter the dimensions is to add or
clearance for different leadscrew and leadnut
subtract the desired size difference to all
configurations.
components’ given measures.

Racks and Pinions


Lengthening X Rack and Pinion
A draw-back with rack and pinion drive is the
Lengthening the rack version of the X axis is
pinion will travel too far with each rotation to be
straightforward. Racks can be abutted to each
directly driven by the stepper. The resolution
other for extended lengths.
suffers and the stepper lacks the power to move the
The ends of the racks will need to be trimmed for
table quickly. Therefore, gearing is necessary. The
smallest available pinions were chosen so the
gearing between the stepper and the pinion would

Table Sizing 115


the teeth to match when they are abutted. A section Acme rod leadscrews are commonly sold in six foot
of rack can be pressed into the matching ends’ teeth lengths. Using the entire length with no waste will
to align the teeth’s spacing as the racks are give around 58 inches of axis travel. A ½ inch
tightened into position. diameter leadscrew works well for this length.

The total pipe rail length will need to be the length To determine the rail and table length, the
of the gantry end plates, 10-1/4 inches, plus the leadscrew’s length lost to the other table
length of the racks. components has to be determined.

The rails in the plans are around 11 inches, rather The lengths of leadscrew that are lost to the
than 10–1/4 inches, longer than the racks because structure of the table are shown in the images.
5 feet was a round number for the table length, and These include:
the racks are cut about an inch longer than their
named dimension. 1 inch . . . . . .two Acme nuts
This extra rack length is added by the supplier so 3/8 inch . . . . bearing block
the racks can be dressed for abutment. 3/4 inch . . . .1 x 4 end plate
7/8 inch. . . . .15 tooth XL pulley
The only distance of rack that is lost to other 3 inches . . . . Total length lost.
components of the table is the short distance at
each end that the pinion cannot pass beyond
without the risk of derailing. For example, a 48
inch long rack will safely give 47-3/4 inches of
maximum travel.

To take full advantage of the rack’s potential


travel, the rack will have to be offset toward the Front end of X axis. Pulley end of X
back of the table, just as is done on the prototype in axis.
these plans. An additional half inch can be included in this
It is easier to use the gantry’s actual movement as lost distance for a nut on the outside of the
the guide for the rack placement than to bother pulley. This extra nut can make tuning easier.
with the math. Loosening the pulley’s set screws will allow the
Move the gantry to the very end of the table and pulley to freewheel while the nut still holds the
rest the end of the rack on the pinion. This will pulley onto the leadscrew.
align the maximum rail travel with the maximum
rack and pinion travel. A extra inch must be added to the lost 3 inches for
the two belt one stepper X axis. The extra length
In summary, the table and X rails need to be 10-1/4 is required for one of the pulleys to align with the
inches longer than the desired cutting length, and second pulley on the stepper.
the rack needs to be around 1/4 inch longer than
the desired cutting length. Other than the rack This total value, 3 to 4-1/2 inches, is subtracted
supports, no other alterations are required. from the length of the stock leadscrew, 72 inches,
to give the length of the X rails and their 2 x 6
beams as well as the table bed.
X Leadscrews 72 - 3 = 69 inches. This is the maximum length of
the table and rails with a 6 foot leadscrew. This is
The table in the plans was dimensioned for 48 inch the table length, not the maximum X travel.
racks and 60 inch rails. Slightly lengthening the
machine will take full advantage of 72 inch The travel of the gantry on the X rails is limited by
leadscrews. the length of the gantry’s end plates and the

Table Sizing 116


distance between the X bearings. The end plates
are 10-1/4 inches long. To determine the maximum The length of the gantry’s 2 x 6 beam is the length
travel, this end plate length is subtracted from the of the pinion axle or leadscrew, less the combined
length of the pipe rails and table. width of the end plates and the distance required by
69 inches minus 10-1/4 inches = 58-3/4 inches of the pinion or bearings and pulley.
travel.

The difference between the total X leadscrew


length and the cutting length is between 13-1/4
inches and 14-3/4 inches. Fifteen inches is a safe
round number to use.

The router bit will be nearly in line with the front


bearings of the end plates. Therefore, the cutting
area on the table bed will be from the very front
end of the table bed to 10-1/4 inches from the
back end of the table bed.

The X leadnuts and table leg tops are already


sized and positioned to take advantage of the Relationships between gantry dimensions.
maximum leadscrew travel. These dimensions do The combined distance is 1-3/8 inch at each end for
not have to be altered. a total of 2-3/4 inches. Images below.

Other alterations of the X axis length will involve


the same dimensions; these are the 3 or more inches
for the pulley, bearings and nuts, and the 10-1/4
inches for the length of the gantry end plates.

Example:
A 48 inch leadscrew would require a table of 45
Leadscrew Pulley and end-
inches (48 minus 3 inches = 45 inches). And the plate dimensions.
Pinion against
projecting from end plate.
travel would be 45 inches minus 10-1/4 inches = gantry end plate.
34-3/4 inches. Again, the table will have to be an
inch shorter when the leadscrews are driven by two The prototype’s gantry beam is cut to 33-1/4
belts with one stepper. inches, which is 36 inches less 2-3/4 inches.

Length of Y Gantry The gantry end plates are 1-1/4


inches from the inside face of the
The gantry on the prototype was designed to use a X rail supports. Therefore, the
36 inch solid rod as the axle for the X pinions, and maximum space available for the
a 36 inch threaded rod for the Y leadscrew. carriage to ride is the length of
the gantry beam (33-1/4 inches)
Note: This width uses the leadscrew to its absolute minus these two 1-1/4 inch
fullest. Extra length on each end of the leadscrew spaces lost to the rail supports.
is required when additional locking nuts are used.
The 33-1/4 inches for the gantry Distance lost to X
beam, minus 2-1/2 inches for rail support. The
gantry is toward
the right.

Table Sizing 117


both rail supports = 30-3/4 inches of distance Note: The pinion axle has a ½ inch diameter and it
available for the carriage to travel. is driven by the stepper at one end. Therefore, there
will be slight flexing along the length of the axle.
This has not been a problem on the prototypes,
The width of cut is this total possible travel though a ½ inch rather than a 3/8 inch axle was
distance, less the width of the carriage. chosen to reduce the twisting.
Axles on commercial tables frequently are 3/4 inch
The carriage’s body is 6 inches wide and the in diameter. When using these plans as a base for
tension rods project around 1/8 inch from each side a markedly wider or more powerful machine it is
of the carriage. This total distance of 6-1/4 inches important to consider the twisting of the pinion
is subtracted from the maximum available travel axle.
distance to yield the total cutting width of the Y
axis.
The Y rack length is simply the desired cutting
The 30-3/4 inches of maximum space to travel, width plus 1/4 inch so the pinion will not fall off
minus 6-1/4 inches lost to the width of the carriage the ends of the rack.
= 24-1/2 inches total axis cutting width.
The Y rail length is the Y travel distance (not
This 24-1/2 inches also works well with a 24 inch cutting distance) less 1/4 inch to give ample
rack, especially since they are cut long by the clearance between the bottom Y rail and X rails.
manufacturer for end dressing, and the actual
length is nearer 25 inches. Note: The rail length can be shorter than the total
Therefore, a 24 inch rack and a 36 inch leadscrew available travel distance because the centers of the
both give the prototypes a little over 24 inches of Y Y bearings are ½ inch from the ends of the
cutting width. carriage; therefore, they can slightly overhang the
ends of the rails without derailing.

The dimensions of 2-3/4 inches for the end plates


and pinions or pulley and bearing block, plus 2-1/2 Widening the gantry’s cutting width can be done
inches for the X rail supports, plus the 6-1/4 inches simply by adding the desired additional length to
for the carriage, add to 11-1/2 inches. Therefore, as the existing dimensions of the gantry components.
a general guide, the Y leadscrew needs to be 1 foot This distance will also have to be added to the
longer than the desired cutting width. width of the X axis.
See the image at the bottom of the following page.
These values of course can be used to start with
different givens.
Widening the X Axis
For example a 36 inch gantry beam would require
a pinion axle of ( 36 + 2-3/4 ) = 38-3/4 inches. The X axis’s width has to match the gantry’s
width.
It would have a cutting width of (36 minus 6-1/4 The most straightforward way to do this is to alter
for the carriage, minus 2-1/2 for the X supports = the prototype’s X width dimensions by the same
36 less 8-3/4) = 27-1/4 inches cutting width. amount as the Y dimensions were altered.

Again, these dimensions only allow 7/8 inch of However, a potential problem exists with the length
leadscrew to extend from the ends of the gantry. of the X belts for the X leadscrew machine,
Wider bearings, pulleys or additional end nuts will especially for the one long belt version.
require more leadscrew length.

Table Sizing 118


Long belts are not available in the variety of to double the additional width of the new table as
lengths that shorter belts are. Therefore, finding a compared to the prototype, and add that length to
belt to fit a specific width of the machine can be a the prototype’s belt. For example, a 5 inch wider
problem. table will require a 10 inch longer belt. The
This is a reason that a dual belt option is presented prototype’s belt is 82.8 inches long.
in these plans.
The position of the idler can be moved to allow for
Sdp-si.com has a pulley calculator that is useful for differently sized belts. It will not be possible to
determining the length of belts required for always adjust the belt’s tension by rotating the
differently sized pulleys and center distances. stepper plate. The hole for the idler should be
drilled after its position is determined with the belt
The URL is https://sdp-si.com/Cd/default.htm. in place.
Be sure to click the XL belt size; their default size
is MXL. This machine uses 15 tooth XL pulleys on
the X and Y leadscrews. Determining Length of Two Short Belts

The easiest way to determine the new belts’ length


Determining Length of One Long Belt is to add the additional width of the table to each
original belt’s length. The prototype’s pair of belts
One way to find the length of the belt is to add the are 39 inches long with 195 teeth.
desired additional table width to the existing A table that is 5 inches wider will require two belts
leadscrew center distance, which is 35-5/8 inches, that are each 5 inches longer.
and use the sdp-si pulley calculator to determine
the belt length. Then add 42 teeth or 8.4 inches to The stepper does not have to be mounted on the 1
this value. The 8.4 inches is the additional amount x 4 end plate. When belts with the exact required
of belt required to wrap around the idler and length cannot be found, the stepper can be attached
stepper pulley. to a plate that extends below the 1 x 4 in order to
achieve the proper tension.
Another way to determine the length of the belt is

Back view of X leadscrew table.

Table Sizing 119


Materials, Plywood

One sheet of ½ inch plywood will supply more


than enough sheet stock for the machine. The
table bed can be made of ½ inch ply rather than
tee slot MDF, and the other parts can be cut
from the remainder.

All of the plywood parts for the Y and Z axes


can be cut from a 24 inch square piece of
plywood.
These small 2 ft. square pieces of plywood are Pieces cut from sheet of plywood.
often available at home-centers; they are
overpriced but handy when a small section is
needed.
Note that the Z top will be either 5(4-7/8) or 8-
1/2 inches long; these parts are shown
overlapping in the drawings.

The dimensions for the gantry and carriage are


based on stock sizes of aluminum flat bar, so
widths of 3, 5 and 6 inches are used frequently.
Therefore, the ½ inch plywood can be ripped
into strips of these widths and then cut to Rack pieces cut across plywood.
length.
Notes for the aluminum version are on page
132.

These drawings are rough dimensions, they


should not be used as cutting guides other than
for the 3, 5 and 6 inch widths. The 10 inch
height of the Z carriage components will vary,
and these pieces should not be cut until
measurements are taken from the actual gantry
as described in these plans.

All of the aluminum used for the wooden


versions is 1/8 inch thick. Angle of 3/4 and 1
inch is used as well as 1 inch flat bar. Other
sizes could be used but are not specified in the
plans because they usually are not hardware
store items.

Y and Z pieces cut from 24 inch square piece of plywood.

Materials 120
Plastic Bearing Blocks

Kitchen cutting board plastic is The image on the right shows


used for the bearing blocks. The that all bearing blocks can be cut
material should be close to 3/8 from a 5 x 5 inch piece of
inch thick so the bearings will be material. Only a piece that is 1-
able to rest on a 1/8 inch 1/2 x 4 inches is required when
shoulder in the plastic. the X axis does not use
leadscrews.
Wood could be used for the
blocks but it has a tendency to The Y rack and Y leadscrew
loosen or split when cut into blocks are shown on top of each
these small sizes. Aluminum other since only one or the other
Bearing blocks made from cutting
could be used too of course, but will be needed. board plastic.
metal of the required thickness
can be challenging to machine for
the home-shop builder.

Stepper Mounting Plates

The plates for the steppers can be made


of a variety of materials including 1/4
inch tempered hardboard, Lexan, and
1/4 inch kitchen cutting board; 1/8 inch
or 16 gauge aluminum can be used also.

Plastic or tempered hardboard that is


1/8 inch thick can be used but the
material may flex or crack where the
holes are near the edges. A cheap
source for a small piece of 1/8 inch
thick hardboard or plastic is a Dollar
Store clip board.
The plate for the single stepper two
belt system must be thin to allow belt
clearance. One pulley has to be as close
as possible to the stepper. Stepper mounting plates.

It is easier to tighten the steppers’ pulleys onto the because it needs to be stiff; it is made of ½ inch
steppers when these plates are thin, 1/4 inch or plywood.
less; thicker material can block the pulleys’ set- The Y stepper mounts are not shown because they
screws. are integrated into the gantry end plate or the
carriage top plate.
The image shows the three X leadscrew stepper
plate options with the Z plate. The Z plate can be made of ½ inch plywood,
though it is more difficult to attach its pulley when
The X rack stepper mounting plate is not shown the plate is this thick.

Materials 121
The first section of each of the lists gives the parts
Suppliers that are common to all versions. The remainder of
each list gives the materials for each version.
Suppliers for the Acme leadscrews include
mcmaster.com, use-enco.com and mscdirect.com. The fourth list gives the total materials for each of
Mcmaster.com also sells ballscrews, and racks and the three versions of the machines. It does not give
pinions. a parts-use or break-down. This list makes it clear
that the majority of the parts are nuts and bolts.
Allthread threaded rods are available from home
centers. Long sections are used for hanging Purchasing these materials in bulk can be
conduit, and they may be found in the electrical significantly less costly than buying per piece. Note
section of the store rather than the bolts and that mcmaster.com and mscdirect.com sell nuts and
hardware section. bolts, and these components could easily be added
to a pulley, rack and pinion or leadscrew order.
Each leadscrew requires a leadnut. Hardware store
tee nuts can also be used as leadnuts on Allthread. Another option can be farm supply stores. These
These work reasonably well, though their backlash frequently sell hardware in bulk or by weight, so
will be worse by a few thousandths of an inch. mixing and matching different lengths or diameters
does not unduly increase the price per piece.
Dumpstercnc.com sells a variety of anti-backlash
nuts made of Delrin. These have proved to work The prototypes use round head zinc plated screws
well, and his prices are generally better than those since they are locally available. The screws can be
of the leadscrew suppliers. any type of head, though washers will be used with
many of the screws, so flat heads will not be the
The bearings can be from a variety of sources; best choice in all locations.
vxb.com and skatebearings.com have served well.
Their prices and options are wider than many other It would be possible to buy only ½ inch and 1-1/4
suppliers. Vxb.com also sells on Ebay. inch #8 screws, and to cut off the tails when
needed. In most applications the extra length would
The skate bearings can frequently be purchased in only be a snag or appearance issue.
large lots at prices well below the per piece cost. It
can sometimes be cheaper to buy a lot of 50 or
even 100 than to pay for the 32 individual bearings Aluminum Note
used on the tables. These bearings may also be
available locally in sports shops and Wallmart. The total of 1 inch aluminum angle required for the
Bearings with any ABEC rating have worked well. Leadscrew X and Y version is over 36 inches. A
section of the 3/4 inch aluminum angle can be used
Sdp-si.com and econobelt.com have proved to be as a Z cross tie so a 36 inch length of 1 inch
good suppliers for the pulleys and belts. Econobelt aluminum angle will be enough for the machine.
tends to be a little less expensive, but their selection
is smaller. There will probably be more than enough 3/4 inch
angle since it is usually sold in 24 or 36 inch
lengths, and only around 20 inches are needed.
Parts Lists There is a little over 36 inches of flat bar required
for all of the machines, but the stock is frequently
The parts are shown in multiple lists. The first sold in 36 inch lengths. A leg can be cut off of
three lists are by axis and include the materials for some remaining 3/4 inch angle to make up the
all of the different options. difference. This odd piece could be used on the
router mount.

Materials 122
The fifth list is of the pulleys, belts and bearings choices. The prices vary considerably between
required for each version. Its introduction gives suppliers; it is worth shopping around.
more details.
Again the prototypes worked well with 3/8 inch
Leadscrews are not in these lists because there are two start for the Y and Z axes, and ½ inch
so many options. As mentioned, speed will cost; the diameter on the X axis. The total price difference
comparison chart shown previously lists the between multi-start and standard 1/2 inch Acme is
performance and approximate cost of some of the large, since two screws are required.

Materials 123
T he narrow columns on the left are for quantities or notes such as “H ave” or “Buy” etc. T he dimensions in these lists are rounded to make purchasing
easier. T hey are not the final dimensions, and these lists should not be used as cut-sheets.

LIST 1 X Axis: Parts on X T able Used For Count T otal


Plywood, ½ in. T able bed and rack boards See Images Page 120 -
MD F, 3/4 in. T ee-Slot T able bed 60 x 33-7/8 -
2 x 6 Fram ing Lumber, Actual 1.5" x 5.5" R ail supports 2@ 60 in. rail supports 1@ 10ft.
T able sides 2@ 57 in. table sides 1@ 10ft.
Legs 4@ ~43 in. legs 2@ 8ft.
T able ends 2@ 33-7/8 in. table ends 68 in.
2 x 4 Fram ing Lumber, Actual 1.5" x 3.5" T able bed joists 3@ 30-7/8 1@ 8 ft.
3/4 in. ID G as Pipe, Actual 1.03 in. O D R ails 2@ 60 in. 1 @ 10 ft.
D rywall Screws 1-5/8 T ie deck to frame ~30 ~30
D rywall Screws 2-1/2 Attach 2 x 6 stock together 56 56
3/8-16 T hreaded Rod T ie pipe to supports 8 @ 3-1/2 in. each 28 in.
3/8-16 Nuts T ie pipe to supports 8@ 3 each 24
3/8 ID washers T ie pipe to supports 8@ 2 each 16
1-1/8 O D W ashers T ie pipe to supports 8@ 2 each 16
W ood G lue G lue all wooden parts ~Small bottle
Loctite T hread Locker, N on-H ardening Secure screw threads ~ Small tube
X Axis: X R ack Version
Plywood, ½ in. R ack supports 2@ 48 x 4-3/4 See Images
Lumber 2 x 2, Actual 1.5" x 1.5" R ack support spacing 2@ 48 1@ 8 ft.
R acks Steel 20° P ressure Angle 2@ 4 ft. Length 2@ 4 ft.
Spur G ear Rack m cm aster.com
20 Pitch, 1/2" W idth & H eight # 5174T 11
1 or 3/4 x 1/8 in. Al. Flat Bar T ension Rack Board 6 @ 1.5 in. 9 in.
#10 -24 T hreaded Rod T ension Rack Board 6 @ 2 in. 12 in.
#10-24 N uts T ension R ack Board 6 6
#10 W ashers T ension R ack Board 6 6
#8-32 x 1-1/4 Machine Screws T ie rack to board 14 14
#8-32 Nuts T ie rack to board 14 14
#8 W ashers T ie rack to board 14 28
T ie rack board to block 14
D rywall Screws 1-5/8 T ie rack board to block 14 14
D rywall Screws 2-1/2 T ie rack block to beam 10 10
X Axis: X Leadscrew Version
1 x 4 Lumber, Actual 0.75" x 3.5" X leadscrew stepper support 1@ 37 in. 37 in.
1/4 or 1/8 in. H ardboard, Plastic etc. X leadscrew stepper plate(s) 1 or 2 @ ~3.5 x 4.5 See Images
5/16-18 x 3 in. C arriage bolt Idler axle 1@ 3 in. 1
5/16 N uts Idler axle 3 3
5/16 W asher Idler axle 1 1
1/4-20 x 3 in. C arriage Bolts T ie stepper plate to 1 x 4 3 for single stepper 3 or 6
6 for dual steppers
1/4-20 N uts T ie stepper plate to 1 x 4 9 for single stepper 9 or 18
18 for dual steppers
1/4 in. ID W ashers T ie stepper plate to 1 x 4 9 for single stepper 9 or 18
18 for dual steppers
#8-32 x 3/4 in. Machine Screws T ie stepper to plate 4 single stepper 4 or 8
8 dual steppers
#8-32 N uts T ie stepper to plate 4 single stepper 4 or 8
8 dual steppers
#8 W ashers T ie stepper to plate 4 single stepper 16 or 20
8 dual steppers
T ie bearing blocks to legs 12 bearing blocks
Plastic Kitchen C utting Board 3/8 in. Bearing blocks 2@ 1-1/2 x 2 See Images
4@ 1-3/8 x 1-3/8
½ in. PVC Electrical C onduit C oupler Idler for single long belt 1 1
D rywall Screws 1-5/8 T ie bearing blocks to legs 12 12

Materials 124
LIST 2 Y Axis: Parts on Gantry Used For Count Total
Plywood, ½ in. Gantry end plates 2@ 6 x 10-1/4 See Images
2 x 6 Framing Lumber, Actual 1.5" x 5.5" Y Gantry beam 33-1/4 inches 34 in.
1 x 1 x 1/8 in. Aluminum Angle X Bearing trucks 4@ 1-1/2 6 in.
1 x 1/8 in. Aluminum Flat Bar X Bearing trucks 120° angle 4@ 3-1/8 12-1/2 in.
3/4 in. ID Gas Pipe, Actual 1.03 in.OD Rails 2 @ 30-1/2 61 in.
3/8-16 Threaded Rod Tie pipe to beam 6 @ 3-1/2 in. each 21 in.
3/8-16 Nuts Tie pipe to beam 6@ 3 each 18
3/8 ID Washers Tie pipe to beam 6@ 2 each 12
1/4-20 Threaded Rod Tie aluminum gantry to ends 4 @ 1-1/2 in. each 6 in.
1/4-20 Nuts Tie aluminum gantry to ends 4 4
1/4 in. Washers Tie aluminum gantry to ends 4 4
1-1/8 OD Washers Tie pipe to beam 6@ 2 each 12
5/16 x 2-1/2 Carriage Bolts Tie X bearing to end plate 4@ 2 each 8
5/16 x 1 Bolts Tie bearings to X trucks 4@ 2 each 8
5/16 Nuts X Bearing trucks 4@ 11 44
5/16 Washers X Bearing trucks 4@~6 24
Drywall Screws 1-5/8 Tie end plates to gantry 8 8
#8-32 x 1 in Screws Tie aluminum gantry to ends 4 4
#8 Washers Tie aluminum gantry to ends 4 4
Y Axis: X Rack Version
Plywood, ½ inch X Rack stepper mount 3 x 7 in. See Images
Metal Rod ½ x 36 in. X Pinion axle 1@ 36 in 1
Pinions for X Movement Steel 20° Pressure Angle mcmaster.com 2
Spur Gear 20 P, 20 Teeth, 1" # 5172T12
Pitch Dia, 1/2" Bore
#8-32 Set Screws Tie pinion to axle 2@ 2 each 4
½ in. PVC Electrical Conduit Coupler Idler for X rack and pinion 1 1
½ in. ID x 5/8 in. OD Washer Space pulley from bearing See note on page 126 --
5/16 x 1-1/2 Bolt Idler Axle 1 1
5/16 Nuts Idler Axle 1 7
Spacers X stepper plate 6
5/16 Washers Idler Axle ~3 ~3
1/4-20 x 2-1/2 Carriage Bolt Tie X stepper plate to end 2 2
1/4-20 Nuts Tie X stepper plate to end 2 2
1/4 Washers Tie X stepper plate to end 6 6
# 8-32 x 1 Machine Screws Tie stepper to plate 4 4
# 8-32 Nuts Tie stepper to plate 4 4
# 8 Washers Tie stepper to plate 4 4

Materials 125
LIST 2 (Continued) Y Axis:
X Leadscrew Version
1 x 1 x 1/8 in. Aluminum Angle X Leadnut brackets 2@ 4.5 in. 9 in.

#8-32 x 1 Machine Screws Tie leadnut bracket to end 2@ 2each 4

#8-32 Nuts Tie leadnut bracket to end 2@ 2each 4

#8 W ashers Tie leadnut bracket to end 2@ 2each 4

Y Rack Version

Rack for Y Movement Steel 20° Pressure Angle 2' Length 1


Spur Gear Rack 20 Pitch, mcmaster.com
1/2" W idth & Height # 5174T1
1 x 1 x 1/8 in. Aluminum Angle Rack bracket 4@ 3/4in. 3 in.

#8 x 1-1/2 Sheet Metal Screw Tie rack to gantry 4 4

#4 x 3/4 W ood Screw Tie rack bracket to beam 4 4

#8-32 x 3/4 Machine Screw Rack tension screw 4 4

Y Leadscrew Version

Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 3/8in. Bearing block 1-1/2 x 2 x 3/8 See Images

½ in. PVC Electrical Conduit Coupler Idler 1 1

5/16 x 1-1/2 Bolt Idler axle 1 1

5/16 Nut Idler axle 1 1

5/16 W ashers Idler axle ~3 ~3

# 8-32 x 1-1/4 Machine Screws Tie Y bearing block to end 2 2

# 8-32 x 1 Machine Screws Tie Y stepper to end plate 4 4

# 8-32 Nuts Tie block and stepper to end 6 6

# 8 W ashers Tie block and stepper to end 6 6

Washer-Spacer Note:

The pinion axles and leadscrews can require washers to space the pulleys or clamps away from the bearings.
The spacers cannot have a large outside diameter or they will chafe on the seal or edge of the bearings.
Therefore, standard washers often will not work at this location, and finding inexpensive washers of the proper
size can be challenging.

Spacers can be made from standard spring or tooth type lock washers that are flattened; use a hammer to bend
the teeth, or pliers to twist the spring type washers. Either external or internal teeth lock washers will work.

Another option is to cut sections from ½ inch copper plumbing pipe for the spacers on the ½ inch rods.
Sections cut from 1/4 inch copper couplers can be used with the 3/8 inch axles. The copper spacers work well
when a distance that is more or less than a lock washer’s thickness is needed.

Materials 126
LIST 3 Z Axis: Parts on Carriage Used For Count Total

Plywood ½ in. Sides, top, bottom, back See Images

1 x 1 x 1/8 in. Aluminum Angle Y Bearing trucks 2@ 6 trucks 23 in.


Z Cross ties 3@ 3-1/8 cross ties
Z leadscrew bearing bracket 1-1/2 leadscrew bearing
1 x 1/8 in. Aluminum Flat Bar Router mount vertical 2@ 5-1/4 vertical 24 in.
Z Cross tie 3-1/8 cross tie
Z Leadnut support 2-3/8 leadnut
Braces 6-1/2 braces
Tension rod brackets 1 tension rod
3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 in. Aluminum Angle Z Bearing trucks 2@ ~10 ~20

½ in. ID Gas Pipe, Actual 0.85 in. OD Z Rails 2@ ~18 ~36 in.

5/16-18 x 1 Bolts Y and Z Bearing trucks 4 trucks @ 4 each 16

5/16 Nuts Y and Z Bearing trucks 4 trucks @ 8 each 32

1/4-20 Threaded Rod Tie top to back 2@ 3-3/4 12 in.


Tie bottom to back 2@ 2-1/4
1/4-20 x 2-1/2 Carriage Bolts Tie stepper plate to top 2 2

1/4-20 x 1-1/2 Bolts Full Thread Router band clamp 2 2


1/4-20 Nuts Back to top 2 16
Bottom to top 2
Stepper plate to top 2
Stepper plate adjust 8
Router band clamp 2
1/4 W ashers Top to back 2 16
Bottom to back 2
Stepper plate to top 2
Stepper plate adjust 8
Router band clamp 2
#10-24 Threaded Rod Y Tension rods 2@ 13 inches 40 in.
Z Tension rods 2@ 7 inches
#10-24 Nuts Tension rods 10 10

#10 W ashers Tension rods 10 10

#8-32 x 1-1/4 Machine Screws Z and Y bearing truck ties 4@ 2 8

#8-32 x 1 Machine Screws Tie stepper to mount 4 12


Router mount 4
Tension rod brackets 2
Z Bearing block 2
#8-32 x 3/4 Machine Screws Z Bearing block 2 2

#8-32 x ½ Machine Screws Cross ties to rails 16 24


Z Leadnut bar 4
Router mount 4
#8-32 Nuts Z Leadnut bar 4 30
Router mount 8
Stepper to plate 4
Tension rod brackets 2
Z and Y bearing truck ties 8
Z Bearing block 4

Materials 127
#8 W ashers Z Leadnut bar 2 42
Router mount 8
Stepper to mount 4
Tension rod brackets 2
Z and Y bearing truck ties 8
Z Bearing block 6
Screws on carriage sides 12
#6-32 x 3/4 Machine Screws Tie Z leadnut to bar 2 2

#6-32 Nuts Tie Z leadnut to bar 2 2

#6 W ashers Tie Z leadnut to bar 2 2

Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 3/8 in. Z Bearing block 1-1/2 x 1-3/8 See Image

Drywall Screws 1-5/8 Tie sides to back and top 9 9

Drywall Screws 1-1/8 Tie braces to top plate 4 4

Pipe Hanger Strap 16 Gauge x 3/4 in. Router mount 1@ > 24 in. hanger strap 1

Z Axis: Y Rack Version

Pinion for Y Movement Steel 20° Pressure Angle mcmaster.com 1


Attached to Carriage Top Spur Gr. 20 Pitch, 15 Teeth, # 5172T11
.75" Pitch Dia, 3/8" Bore
#8-32 Set Screws Tie pinion to axle 2 2

3/8 x 3-3/4 Inch Rod Pinion axle, cut from bolt 1 1

3/8-16 Nuts Bearing block spacers 4 4

3/8 in. ID x ½ in. OD W ashers Space pulley from bearing See note on page 126 --
Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 3/8 in. Bearing block 2-1/2 x 1-3/8 x 3/8 See Image

5/16 x 2 Carriage Bolts Bearing block support 2 2

5/16 x 1-1/2 Bolt Idler axle 1 1

5/16 Nuts Idler axle, bearing block 3 3

5/16 W ashers Idler axle, bearing spacers ~10 ~10

#8-32 x 1 Machine Screws Tie Y stepper to top plate 4 4

#8-32 Nuts Tie Y stepper to top plate 4 4

#8 W ashers Tie Y stepper to top plate 4 4

#6-32 X 1 Machine Screw Tie Y stepper to top plate 1 1

#6-32 Nut Tie Y stepper to top plate 1 1

½ in PVC Electrical Conduit Coupler Y Rack and pinion idler 1 1


attaches to top of carriage
Z Axis: Y Leadscrew Version

#8-32 x 1-1/4 Machine Screws Tie leadnut block to carriage 2 2

#8-32 x 1 Machine Screws Tie leadnut to block 2 2

#8-32 Nuts Tie leadnut to block & side 4 4

#8-32 W ashers Tie leadnut to block & side 4 4

Materials 128
This lists the materials by the version of machine. The versions are in the columns.
Quantities in the far right X Dual Stepper column are added to the Leadscrew X column.
LIST 4 Parts By Machine Rack X Rack X Leadscrew X X Dual
Rack Y Leadscrew Y Leadscrew Y Stepper
s
2x6 3@ 10', 2@ 8' 3@ 10', 2@ 8' 3@ 10', 2@ 8'
2x4 8' 8' 8'
2x2 8' 8' --
1x4 -- -- 37"
Plywood ½ in. 24" x 24", 10" x 48" 24" x 24", 10" x 48" 24" x 24"
MDF Tee Slot, 3/4 in. 60 x 33-7/8 60 x 33-7/8 60 x 33-7/8
3/4 in ID Gas Pipe 2@ 5', 2@ 3' 2@ 5', 2@ 3' 2@ 5', 2@ 3'
½ in. ID Gas Pipe ~36" ~36" ~36"
1 x 1 x 1/8 Aluminum Angle 32" 29" 38"
1 x 1/8 Aluminum Flat Bar 45.5" 45.5" 36.5"
3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 Aluminum Angle ~21" ~21" ~21"
½ x 36 in. Solid Metal Rod 1 1 --
3/8 x 3-5/8 Rod (Cut from Bolt) 1 -- --
3/8-16 Threaded Rod 49" 49" 49"
3/8-16 Nuts 46 42 42
3/8 ID W ashers 28 28 28
1-1/8 OD W ashers 28 28 28
5/16-18 x 3 Carriage Bolt -- -- 1 w / One Belt
5/16-18 x 2-1/2 Carriage Bolts 8 8 8
5/16-18 x 2 Carriage Bolts 2 -- --
5/16-18 x 1-1/2 Inch Bolts 2 2 --
5/16-18 x 1 Bolts 24 24 24
5/16-18 Nuts 86 84 79
5/16 W ashers 37 30 25
1/4-20 Threaded Rod 12"(+6" Al. Gantry) 12" (+6") 12"(+6")
1/4-20 x 3 Carriage Bolts -- -- 3 +3
1/4-20 x 2-1/2 Carriage Bolts 4 2 2
1/4-20 x 1-1/2 Bolts Full Thread 2 2 2
1/4-20 Nuts 18 (+4 Al. Gantry) 18 (+4) 25 (+4) +9
1/4 W ashers 22 (+4) 22 (+4) 25 (+4) +9
#10 Threaded Rod 52" 52" 40"
#10 Nuts 16 16 10
#10 W ashers 16 16 10
#8-32 x 1-1/4 Machine Screws 22 26 8
#8-32 x 1 Machine Screws 20 (+4) 22 (+4) 16 (+4)
#8-32 x 3/4 Machine Screws 6 2 6 +4
#8-32 x 1/2 Machine Screws 24 24 24
#8-32 Nuts 52 58 38 +4
#8 W ashers 78 (+4) 84 (+4) 62 (+4) +4

Materials 129
LIST 4 (Continued) Rack X Rack X Leadscrew X Dual
Rack Y Leadscrew Y Leadscrew Y Steppers
Parts By Machine
#6-32 x 1 Machine Screws 1 -- --
#6-32 x 3/4 Machine Screws 2 2 2
#6-32 Nuts 3 2 2
#6 Washers 2 2 2
2-1/2 Drywall Screws 66 66 56
1-5/8 Drywall Screws 61 61 59
1-1/8 Drywall Screws 4 4 4
#8 x 1-1/2 Sheet Metal Screw 4 -- --
#4 x 3/4 Wood Screw 4 -- --
½ in PVC Electrical Conduit 2 2 1 + 1 w/ Long Belt
Coupler
Pipe Hanger Strap > 24 x 3/4 in. 1 1 1
½ x 5/8 Washer, See note p. 126 1 1 --
3/8 x ½ Washers See note p. 126 2 -- --
Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 3/8" Y & Z Blocks Y & Z Blocks X, Y & Z Blocks
Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 1/4" ~ Z Stepper Plate ~ Z Stepper Plate X & ~ Z Stepper +1 Plate
Plate
1/8 in. Thick Plastic or Hardboard ~ Z Stepper Plate ~ Z Stepper Plate ~ Z Stepper Plate,
X Stepper Plate for
1Stepper w/ 2 Belts
1in. Pitch Diameter Pinions 2 2 --
3/4 in Pitch Diameter Pinion 1 -- --
#8-32 Set Screws for Pinions 6 4 --
Racks 4' + 4' +2' 4' + 4' --
or 4' + 6'
X Leadscrews -- -- 2@ ½" x ~64" u
Y Leadscrew -- 3/8" x 36"+ u 3/8" x 36"+ u
Z Leadscrew 3/8" x 12"+ u 3/8" x 12"+ u 3/8" x 12"+ u
Wood Glue T T T
Epoxy Glue T T T
Loctite T hread-Locker N on Hardening T T T
608 22 x 8 mm Bearings 32 32 30, 32 w/ Long Belt
R6 7/8 x 3/8 Bearings 4u 4u 4u
R8 1-1/8 x ½ Bearings 3u 3u 8u

u Leadscrews and Bearings. These sizes will vary and the leadscrews must match the bearings. The diameters
listed are the ones preferred on the prototypes, but other sizes will work. The lengths will also vary, the ones
given are minimums and they will not work on all machines. Order extra, or measure the actual machine before
ordering.

Materials 130
Pulleys, Belts, Bearings, Racks and Pinions The racks and pinions are all steel 20° Pressure Angle Spur
Gear with 20 Pitch. Racks and pinions with 14.5° Pressure
All pulleys are size XL for 3/8 inch wide belts, and are Angle will work too with these light loads. The racks on the
double flanged with hub, unless noted otherwise. prototypes are from mcmaster.com.
Pulleys can be solid steel, aluminum, or plastic with an The sizes and part numbers follow:
aluminum insert. Bores of solid aluminum pulleys can be
drilled to a slightly larger size. X Pinions. Two required. Will need to tap for set screws.
20 Teeth, 1" Pitch Dia, 1/2" Bore
Belts can be of any material and tension member, though mcmaster.com # 5172T12
fiberglass can fail sooner with heavy use. Some suppliers
only sell fiberglass; it has been used here with no problems. Y Pinion. One required. Will need to tap for set screws.
However, when severely overloaded the fiberglass threads 15 Teeth, .75" Pitch Dia, 3/8" Bore
have torn. mcmaster.com # 5172T11

The bearings are sized to match the leadscrews. The less X Racks. Two required.
expensive bearings have worked as well as more costly 1/2" Width & Height 4 ft. Length
ones; the loads on these machines are small. These too can mcmaster.com # 5174T11
often be found at farm supply stores, but the prices tend to
be higher since the bearings are rated for farm implements. Y Rack. One required.
1/2" Width & Height 2ft. Length
mcmaster.com # 5174T1

LIST 5 Pulley on Stepper Driven Pulley Belts Bearings


X Axis:
Parts on X Table
X Leadscrews 1@ 15 teeth 2@ 15 teeth 1@ 414 teeth 8 to match leadscrews
1 Long Belt, 1 Stepper 1/4 inch bore bore to match leadscrews 82.8 inches 1-1/8 x ½ on prototype
2 @ 608 bearings for idler
X Leadscrews 2 @ 15 teeth 2@ 15 teeth 2@ 195 teeth 8 to match leadscrews
2 Belts, 1 Stepper 1/4 inch bore bore to match leadscrews 39 inches 1-1/8 x ½ on prototype
One pulley should be hub-
less. See pg. 91
X Leadscrews 2 @ 15 teeth 2@ 15 teeth 2@ 55 teeth 8 to match leadscrews
2 Belts, 2 Steppers 1/4 inch bore bore to match leadscrews 11 inches 1-1/8 x ½ on prototype
Rack and Pinion Stepper is on Y gantry
Y Axis:
Parts on Y Gantry
X Rack and Pinion 1@ 12 teeth 1 @ 36 teeth 1@ 75 teeth 3 @ 1-1/8 x ½ for pinion axle
1/4 inch bore ½ inch bore for X pinion axle 15 inches 2 @ 608 bearings for idler
can be without flanges 12@ 608 for X Trucks
Y Leadscrew 1@ 15 teeth 1 @ 15 teeth 1 @ 55 teeth 2 to match Y leadscrew
1/4 inch bore bore to match leadscrew 11 inches 7/8 x 3/8 used on prototype
2 @ 608 bearings for idler
12@ 608 for X Trucks
Y Rack and Pinion Stepper is on Z Carriage 12@ 608 for X Trucks
Z Axis:
Parts on Z Carriage
Y Rack and Pinion 1@ 12 teeth 1@ 36 teeth 1 @ 50 teeth 2 @ 7/8 x 3/8 Y pinion axle
1/4 inch bore 3/8 bore for Y pinion 10 inches 2 @ 608 bearings for idler
Z Leadscrew 1@ 12 teeth 1 @ 12 teeth -bore to match 1 @ 30 teeth 2 to match Z leadscrew
This Z row applies to 1/4 inch bore Z leadscrew, Small bore can 6 inches 7/8 x 3/8 used on prototype
all machines. be drilled to fit larger 8 @ 608 for Y Trucks
leadscrew. 8 @ 608 for Z Trucks

Materials 131
Angled shims are also required to offset the angle
Aluminum Version Notes of the channel’s legs. The six shims can be made of
wood, plastic or metal.
The aluminum that is used in place of the plywood The angle is 9.5° and the shims are 3/4 inch
and lumber for the metal gantry and carriage square.
follows. It was purchased from onlinemetals.com A 3/8 inch hole is drilled in the middle of each shim
and was around $200. It is much less expensive to for the stud.
purchase lengths to the nearest foot rather than to
have it cut to specified lengths. A piece of 1/4 x 3/4 inch wood can be ripped at a
9° to 10° angle to serve as the stock for the shims.
6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE BAR
1/2 X 5" ALUM FLAT 6061-T6, One Ft. Length Another option is
For carriage back. to cut and drill a
3/4 x 1/8 inch
6061-T6 STRUCTURAL (AM STD) CHANNEL piece of aluminum
6 X .437 X 2.157 ALUM CHAN 6061-T6 angle as shown.
Three Ft. Length, For gantry beam.
The radius of the Shim made from aluminum angle.
6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE BAR channel’s legs will
3/8 X 3" ALUM FLAT 6061-T6, Three Ft. Length interfere with the shim. The shims’ edges can be
For sides of carriage, X rack stepper mount, Z filed or sanded as required to fit the radius.
stepper mount, Y leadscrew support block.

6061-T6 ALUMINUM RECTANGLE BAR The gantry rack is installed similarly to the wooden
3/8 X 6" ALUM FLAT 6061-T6, Three Ft. Length version. However, the hole for the small wood
For ends of gantry, and top and bottom carriage screw in the rack brackets is unnecessary in the
plates. aluminum channel beam version. This short screw
is not used.

The rails on the channel are spaced 1 inch rather


than 7/8 inch from the back edge of the beam.

This permits the


carriage to clear the The hole for the small screw is
front legs of the unnecessary.
channel. The
channel’s legs are The 3/16 inch hole near the bracket’s end is drilled
longer than the width when the rack is installed, just as is done with the
of the 2 x 6. wood version.

The pipes are It may be necessary to move the pipe rail to drill,
attached to the tap and install the rack’s machine screws.
channel the same way Therefore, do not permanently attach the pipe to
as is done with the the aluminum beam until after the rack is installed.
wooden 2 x 6. Pipe attached to channel with
However, the stud, nuts, washers and shim. The carriage height measure can still be taken with
threaded 3/8-16 studs the top pipe slightly loose, since the aluminum will
are 2-1/4 inches long. not compress the way the wood will.

Aluminum Notes 132


It may be necessary to use two washers underneath bottom in the threaded hole; this helps to guarantee
the pipe for the rack brackets to fit under the pipe. a tight fit. A nut with washer is then put on each
The tops of the rack brackets can be filed down if stud to tighten the end plates into position. The
needed. initial attachment is done with the #8 machine
screws.
The rack brackets will be
installed with the rack; The attachment holes in the end plates can be
they do not need to be drilled oversized to allow for adjustment between
installed beforehand as the end plates and the channel beam.
they are with the wooden
version. The 5/16 inch holes for the X bearing carriage
Make sure the brackets fit bolts will have to be partially enlarged for the
The rack is attached to the
under the pipe before aluminum beam with
necks of the carriage bolts, or the necks can be
tightening the pipe into machine screws. The holes ground off of the carriage bolts.
place. in the beam are tapped.

The long screws that attach the rack to the beam The carriage side plates are made of 3/8 x 3 inch
are #8-32 x 1-1/4. The beam is tapped for them, aluminum flat bar.
the pilot hole size is 9/64 inch.

The aluminum end plates are used as templates to


mark the position of the attaching screws and studs
on the gantry beam. The end plates are made of 3/8
x 6 inch flat bar.

Ends are attached to channel with 1/4-20 studs


and #8 machine screws with washers.

Holes are drilled and threaded in the ends of the


gantry channel that align with the holes in the end
plate. One pair of holes is drilled to 13/64 inch and
tapped for 1/4-20 x 1-1/2 inch studs. The other
pair is drilled to 9/64 inch and tapped for #8-32 x
1 inch screws.
It is easier to use studs than bolts at this location The side plate will be approximately ½
because the studs can be tightened until they inch longer; one of the top pilot holes in
the back edge is not needed.

Aluminum Notes 133


The sides do not need the lower top hole that is at Carriage bolts can also be used, but either the
1-1/2 inches. Three #8-32 x 1 inch screws are necks of the carriage bolts will have to be ground
enough to attach the sides to the back plate. Holes down, or the holes in the top plate will have to be
are drilled at 9/64 inch and tapped for #8-32 for partially enlarged to accept the necks. The metal
the attachment of the sides to the back. will not compress around the carriage bolts’ necks
the way wood will.
The back plate is made of ½ x 5 inch aluminum
flat bar.
Using the Templates
The carriage will be
approximately ½ inch taller The templates should be checked for correct sizing.
with the 6 inch aluminum The printing process can alter the image size. The
channel than it would be with mis-sizing is usually so minor that the differences
the 5-1/2 inch board. can be offset by marking on another side of the
lines.
The aluminum version does not
need the braces that attach the The holes in the stock can also be enlarged to
top to the sides. Braces are not compensate for offsets.
needed.

Paper rather than cardstock templates have been


The holes for the carriage bolts in the aluminum easier to use since the center punch leaves a
top plate for rack and pinion version can be tapped, sharper indentation through the paper.
and studs can be used in place of the carriage bolts.
This may be easier than drilling the recesses for the The templates can be cut-out and taped or glued to
carriage bolts’ heads. the top of the stock.
Two sided tape works well; glue tends to clog
sandpaper.

Cutting or folding two edges of the template so one


corner can be aligned with a true corner of the
stock works well.

Mark all of the holes with a center punch through


the template before cutting or drilling. Otherwise,
if the template is torn during drilling, the
dimensions will be lost.

Drill the smaller holes first. The hole saw and


The two 5/16 inch carriage bolt holes can be tapped
rather than recessed, and studs replace the carriage Forstner bits will probably grab and tear the
bolts. templates.
The 1-1/2 inch holes in the stepper mounts can be
The 1/4 inch carriage bolts that tie the Z stepper larger as long as there is enough stock left for the
plate to the top plate on both the rack and steppers to seat well against the mounts.
leadscrew versions of the machine can be replaced
with 1/4-20 studs; the holes in the top plate will Referring back to the images in the gantry end
have to be drilled to 13/64 inch and tapped to plate sections can make the Y end plate templates
accept them. easier to use.

Aluminum Notes 134


List of Templates

Left Gantry End Plate for 2x6 Wood Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Right Gantry End Plate for 2x6 Wood Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Left Gantry End Plate for Aluminum Channel Gantry Beam . . . . . . . 138
Right Gantry End Plate for Aluminum Channel Gantry Beam . . . . . . 139
Carriage Top Plate for Rack and Pinion Y Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
Gantry Stepper Mount for X Rack and Pinion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
Carriage Top Plate for Y Gantry Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Z Stepper Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Y Leadnut Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Z Bottom Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
Stepper Plate, X Dual Steppers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Stepper Plate, X Two Short Belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
Stepper Plate, X One Long Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147

Templates 135
Templates 141
Templates 142
Templates 143
Templates 144
Templates 145
Templates 146
Templates 147
CNC Router Plans
Plans for a 25 x 25 Inch Leadscrew Drive
CNC Router Table

by
David Steele
NOTICE: That which makes CNC machines useful also makes them
dangerous; they move without direct human control.
A CNC table MUST have an easily accessible Emergency Stop button. The
table must be in a safe location where it is inaccessible to children and
unauthorized users; these are not toys, even a small machine can inflict
serious injury. You, the user of these plans, assume all liability and
responsibility for the construction process, and the product you create.
Do not use the plans if these conditions of use are unacceptable to you.

Copyright © 2011 David K. Steele

David Steele is the copyright owner of these plans. In consideration for


payment, David Steele grants a licence to use the plans for the purpose of
building a machine for personal use.
The licence is not assignable.
Table of Contents

1 Introduction and Materials 3·10 1x4 for Closed Front Machine . . . . . . 37


3·11 1x4s for Open Front Machine . . . . . . . 37
1·1 Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3·12 Machine Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
1·2 Machine Axes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3·13 X Axis Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
1·3 X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
1·4 Y Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
1·5 Z Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 4 Y Gantry
1·6 Tools and Materials Overview . . . . . . . 7
1·7 Tool List, Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 4·1 Y Gantry Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
1·8 Sizes of Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 4·2 Y Pipe Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
1·9 Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 4·3 Y Threaded Studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
1·10 Basic Machine, Cut 1x4 . . . . . . . . . . . 13 4·4 Install Studs in Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
1·11 Table Bed Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 4·5 Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
1·12 Machine and Table Bed, Cut 2x4 . . . . 14 4·6 Install Y Rails on 2x6 Beam . . . . . . . . 42
1·13 Stand, Cut 1x4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 4·7 End Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
1·14 Wood Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 4·8 Right (Stepper) End Plate . . . . . . . . . . 44
1·15 Hardware Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 4·9 Left End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
1·16 Cut Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 4·10 Attach End Plates to Gantry . . . . . . . . 47
1·17 Kitchen Cutting Board . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 4·11 X Bearings Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
1·18 Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 4·12 Wooden Outriggers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
1·19 Leadscrews and Leadnuts . . . . . . . . . . 18 4·13 Fabrication of Outrigger Blocks . . . . . 49
1·20 Upgrading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 4·14 Metal Outriggers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
1·21 Suppliers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 4·15 Install Carriage Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
1·22 Leadscrew Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 4·16 Install Bottom Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . 51
4·17 Install Gantry on X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . 52
4·18 Install Leadnut Carriage Bolts . . . . . . 53
2 Stand and Bed 4·19 Gantry Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
4·20 Note for Solid Sheet Table Bed . . . . . 54
2·1 Router Stand Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
2·2 Stand Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
2·3 Table Bed Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 5 X Leadscrews
2·4 Table Bed Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
2·5 Wood Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 5·1 X Leadscrew Components Overview . . 55
2·6 Table Bed 1x4 Slats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 5·2 X Bearing Flanges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
2·7 Table Bed Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 5·3 X Leadnuts Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
2·8 Attach Bed to Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 5·4 Leadnut Options . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
5·5 Hole Alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
5·6 Holes in Leadnut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
3 X Axis Frame and Rails 5·7 Bracket Trim Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
5·8 Aluminum Brackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
3·1 X Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 5·9 Attach Leadnuts to Brackets . . . . . . . . 59
3·2 X Axis Pipe Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 5·10 Install Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
3·3 X Threaded Studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 5·11 Mark and Drill Bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
3·4 Install Studs in Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 5·12 Align Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
3·5 Rail Supports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 5·13 Install Pulleys and Clamps . . . . . . . . . 61
3·6 Install Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 5·14 X Belt Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
3·7 1x4 Cross Members . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 5·15 Idler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
3·8 Bearing Recesses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 5·16 Install Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
3·9 Stepper and Idler Holes . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 5·17 Move Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
5·18 Install Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 8·8 Spindle Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
5·19 Tighten Stepper and Belt . . . . . . . . . . 66 8·9 Porter Cable 7301 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
5·20 Square Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 8·10 Spindle Plate Stud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
5·21 Adjust Gantry Front Bearings . . . . . . . 66 8·11 Band Clamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
5·22 Bearing Tensioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 8·12 Z Pipe Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
5·23 Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 8·13 Attach Pipes to Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
8·14 Cross Tie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
8·15 Install Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
6 Z Carriage Body 8·16 Tension Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
8·17 Align Z Rails and Trucks . . . . . . . . . . 92
6·1 Z Carriage Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 8·18 Attach Bracket, Align Flanges . . . . . . 93
6·2 Y Bearing Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 8·19 Tighten Z Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
6·3 Measure Distance Between Trucks . . . 69
6·4 Y Leadnut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
6·5 Side Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 9 Software Settings
6·6 Back Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
6·7 Top Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 9·1 Software Settings, Introduction . . . . . . 95
6·8 Bottom Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 9·2 Steps per Revolution, Stepper . . . . . . . 95
6·9 Install Bottom Truck . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 9·3 Micro-Stepping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
6·10 Install Top Truck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 9·4 Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
6·11 Install Y Tension Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 9·5 Starts, and Turns per Inch . . . . . . . . . 96
6·12 Z Bearing Flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 9·6 Determining Steps per Unit . . . . . . . . . 96
6·13 Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 9·7 Resolution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
9·8 Axis Names . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
9·9 Switch X and Y Axis Names . . . . . . . 97
7 Y Leadscrew 9·10 Speed (Velocity) and Acceleration . . . . 98
9·11 Tuning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
7·1 Leadscrew to Stepper Coupler . . . . . . 78 9·12 Wrap Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
7·2 Y Bearing Flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
7·3 Install Y Leadnut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
7·4 Install Y Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 10 Templates
7·5 Install Y Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
X 1x4 Bearing Recesses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
X 1x4 Stepper Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
8 Z Axis X 1x4 Front Horizontal and Legs . . . . . . . . 103
Y End Plate Right . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
8·1 Install Z Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Y End Plate Left . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
8·2 Z Bearing Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Z Side Plate Left . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
8·3 Attach Z Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Z Side Plate Right . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
8·4 Z Leadscrew Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Z Top Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
8·5 Leadnut and Bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Z Bottom Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
8·6 Install Z Leadscrew Assembly . . . . . . 85 Bearing Flanges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
8·7 Spindle Plate and Rails Overview . . . . 86
The plans also include directions for optional 1/8 x
1·1 Overview 1 inch aluminum flat bar bearing support
components, but the wooden ones are simple and
This machine is designed to be simple and serve well.
inexpensive. It uses materials efficiently, and can
use a variety of leadscrews. The stepper supports and a number of the bearing
supports are incorporated directly into the
The X and Y axes use structural components of the machine. This gives
standard length 3 foot a simpler system that is easier to align.
leadscrews. There is
no waste, and they
give a 25 x 25 inch The basic machine does not have a base and can sit
cutting area. directly on top of the stock.

The leadscrews can Plans for a bed and


range from hardware stand that are
store threaded rods, made of 1x4 and
to precision Acme O pen front machine on
2x4 wood are
r ods wit h a nti- table bed and stand.
included in this
backlash leadnuts. manual.
Basic machine without the
table bed and stand.
Therefore, it is possible to initially build a low cost
machine, and to later upgrade. The bed permits
the front of the machine to
All of the wooden components are cross-cut from be open, which allows
standard off the shelf sizes of wood. The pieces are easier access to the router.
then drilled and assembled. Directions for the this
The cuts can be made with a chop, miter or arm open front version are
saw. A table saw is neither necessary nor missed included.
for the construction of this machine.
The stand is made of 1x4
There is no plywood or MDF in the machine. The and permits the machine
only sheet stock is plastic kitchen cutting board, to be swung down for
which is readily available, inexpensive, and it is more compact storage. Machine tilted for storage.
easily cut and drilled.

1·2 Machine Axes


The machine has three axes, X, Y and Z. The axes
are named in a manner that is logical
Bearing flanges made of plastic cutting board . for construction.

The rails are all made of 1/2 inch inside diameter The letter designations
gas pipe. The pipes are supported, but no thread can be different, and
tapping is required for their installation. The it may be preferred to
mounting system is solid, and straightforward. switch the axis names
when setting up the
The rail bearing systems use size 608 bearings, software. O rientation of axes.
which are also sold as skate bearings. Their
supports do not have to be bent or tapped. This is addressed in
Axis Names, section 9-8.

5
The Z axis is a carriage that A 1x4 spans the front of the closed front version.
supports the router- This closed front option does not require the table
spindle, which bed for structural support.
moves up and down.

The Y axis is a Z and Y axes.


gantry beam that
carries the Z carriage; Y movement is from side
to side on the machine.
C losed front machine. O pen front machine.

The X axis is the frame that carries the gantry from


end to end on the machine. Two 1x4 legs replace the horizontal 1x4 in the
open front version. This option requires the table
bed to hold the machine square.
1·3 X Axis
The closed front machine
The X axis consists of a can be attached to a table
frame which is made of bed or it can stand
2x4 and 1x4 wood. The alone. The machine
wood’s actual can be removed from
C losed front machine
dimensions are 1-1/2 x the table bed to carve standing alone.
3-1/2 inches and 3/4 x X axis is made of 1x4 ends
patterns in any sized
3-1/2 inches. and 2x4 rail supports. stock including floors.

The open front version


allows easier access to
the table bed and
router-spindle. This is
C losed front machine on
handy for setting up table bed.
X stepper on back 1x4.
jobs and changing
The 1x4s support the X stepper and leadscrews. router bits.
The 2x4s support the pipe-rails.
The different 1x4 parts
The X axis uses dual leadscrews that are driven by for the two versions,
a single stepper with a long belt. when not glued into
This configuration permits a lean and sturdy place, can be switched O pen front m achine on table
machine that uses a minimum of material to fairly easily. Therefore, bed.

produce a quality product. options can remain


open, should the need to cut very large stock arise
These plans also once the open front version is completed.
address a variation of
the X axis that has an The open front machine is easier to use, and is the
open front with a table version pictured throughout this manual.
bed. O pen front with table bed.

The differences between the X axis of the open and


closed front versions are minor; the parts that are
different are darkened in the next drawings.

6
The Z spindle assembly is made of a section of 1x2
1·4 Y Gantry wood; 1x2's actual dimensions are 3/4 x 1-1/2
inches.
The Y gantry is made of 2x6 and 1x6 wood. These
boards have actual dimensions of 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 This wood supports the Z pipe-rails and the router-
inches and 3/4 x 5-1/2 inches. spindle, which is held into place with a bolt and
band strap.

2x6 beam;1x6 end plates.

The 2x6 supports the Y pipe-rails, and the 1x6s are


the end plates that support the Y leadscrew and
stepper.

Z pipes Z carriage with


G antry with rails, stepper and leadscrew. on 1x2. router.

The end plates also support the bearings that ride


the X rails.
The Y leadscrew is supported with a bearing at 1·6 Tools and Materials Overview
each end.
The stepper does not carry any of the thrust loads. The machine was designed to use stock sizes of
This is better on the stepper and reduces backlash. wood and metal, so a minimum of materials, tools
and work would be required for construction.

1·5 Z Carriage All wooden components are made from off the
shelf sizes of lumber that are found at home
The Z carriage is made of 1x4 centers. These boards’ sizes include 1x2, 1x4, 1x6,
wood that is cut to length and 2x4 and 2x6.
drilled.
The carriage holds the Z A version of the machine that used only 1x2 and
bearings that support the 1x4 was built and tested, but it was not as sturdy
router spindle assembly. The as desired. Therefore, the larger stock was used
where it helped to stiffen the machine.
Z carriage is
carriage also holds the Y made of 1x4.
bearings, which ride on the Y
gantry.

G antry made of 1x2 and 1x4 was too flexible.

There is no sheet stock, such as plywood, used.


Therefore, a table saw is unnecessary. This was
one of the primary design considerations.
Y trucks on top and Z bearing trucks
bottom plates. on side plates.

7
A basic power saw will help with the machine’s The rails are all made of 1/2 inch inside diameter
construction, since it will speed work. Also, it tends black iron pipe. This is also called gas pipe; it is
to give cleaner cuts than a hand saw. painted black, not galvanized.
The pipes can usually be cut to length at the place
A chop, miter or arm saw will serve well. The of purchase, but they can also be cut with the
stand and part of the X bearings require a miter hacksaw.
cut; all other cuts are square cut. These angled cuts
can be made with a hand saw when a miter saw is A vise helps to hold parts during cutting, but it is
unavailable. not mandatory.

A hand held circular saw will also work, but these The pipes as well as the other materials have holes
tools can be hard to hold square. and/or recesses drilled into them.

The bearing flanges are made of kitchen cutting A drill press is the easiest to use.
board plastic. This material can be cut to size with However, most any power drill will work,
the power saw or a hacksaw. It cuts easily, but a from an inexpensive corded unit, to a top-
power saw may melt the edges. This is usually only end rechargeable or corded tool.
a cosmetic problem, which can be cleaned with a
knife, sandpaper, or a flame (lighter, candle, or The recesses are most easily
blow torch). drilled with Forstner bits, but
paddle (spade) bits work well
This cutting board plastic can be replaced with enough.
other materials, such as tempered hardboard, Inexpensive Forstner bits,
quality plywood or aluminum. Unlike these other such as those sold by Harbor
materials, this plastic can be purchased in small Freight, will be fine. Forstner Paddle
pieces from the housewares section of department Bit bit

stores. This is the easiest and most economical A 1-1/2 inch hole saw will
route, since only a few square inches are needed. speed construction; this can be an inexpensive
interchangeable ring-saw. The holes can be cut
Threaded rods are used for a number of the from both sides of the boards, so a deeply bladed
components, and they have to be cut to length. This saw is unnecessary.
can be done with a hand hacksaw. The rods’ Directions are given for using smaller Forstner or
diameters are 5/16 inch and #10 (~3/16 inch), so paddle bits instead of a larger hole saw.
they can be cut quickly by hand. A file is used to
clean the cut threads. The twist drills can be a basic set that is sized in
1/64 inch, which includes bits from 1/16 to 1/2
Some of the rods are threaded into the wooden inch.
components, but the holes in the wood do not have The dimensions in these plans use these sizes rather
to be tapped beforehand. There is no need for taps than number or decimal sizes, since 1/64 inch drill
and dies in this machine. This was another design bit sets are common in home shops.
consideration.
Holes of 11/32 to 3/8 inch will be drilled in the gas
Aluminum angle that is 1/8 x 3/4 inch is used for pipe, so these bit sizes need to be able to drill steel.
a few components. This metal is soft and can be
cut with the hacksaw. This is the only aluminum Brad point drill bits can speed the wood work,
used in the machine. Again, using the single since they can stay on center without a punch
commonly found size of aluminum stock was by mark, but they are not mandatory.
design.

8
Parts are tied together with wood screws, round square has an adjustable blade.
head machine screws, and bolts with nuts.
An inexpensive unit will work well enough, but it
Drywall and decking screws work well for holding does need 1/16 inch marks.
the wooden components together.
These are driven with a Phillips screwdriver. A
cordless screwdriver or drill speeds this process,
but is not required.
C ombination S quare
The machine screws are all #8 and #10, and will be
either flat or Phillips depending on the supplier.
The nuts are usually 11/32 and 3/8 inch. 1·7 Tool list, Required

Bolts and studs of 5/16 and 1/4 inch are used. The Hacksaw
nuts usually require 1/2 and 7/16 inch wrenches. Wood saw
Drill
Open end wrenches
Drill bits: 1/16 to 1/2 inch
for the 11/32, 3/8
and 1/2 inch nuts Forstner or paddle bits: 5/8, 3/4, 7/8, 1, 1-1/8
are necessary.
O pen end wrench
(1-1/8 bit only for 1/2 inch leadscrews)
However, adjustable Screwdrivers: Phillips and flat
wrenches, or even a pair of pliers will work. The Socket wrench: 1/2 inch
pliers are not recommended for this, but they will Open wrenches: 11/32, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2 inch
do the job, though poorly.
Adjustable wrench: (for nuts on leadscrews)
These nuts are most easily driven with nut Allen wrenches: (for pulleys, couplers, clamps)
drivers when access is open. A small Rat tail file or Dremel: (to clean slotted holes)
socket set with a screwdriver style handle
File
will serve well. A 1/2 inch socket is
required for the X rail attachment, since Measuring tape or rule
the nuts on the 5/16 inch studs are in Center punch
recesses.
Scribe or pencil
Allen wrenches will be required with the N ut
Square
pulleys, leadscrew couplers and collars. driver

Tools that are helpful, but not required.


The plans were designed on a 1/16 and 1/8 inch
grid in an effort to keep the dimensions Power miter saw or arm saw
manageable. The holes were also positioned on the Power hacksaw
same line, when possible, to further facilitate Power screwdriver
layout. Drill press
1-1/2 inch hole saw
The measuring tools can be those for carpenters Brad point drill bits
rather than machinists. A standard retractable Nut drivers
measuring tape and a combination square will Power sander: disk, belt or orbital
serve well. Grinding wheel
Vise
The combo square is favored because dimensions
can easily be transferred and repeated, since the

9
1·8 Sizes of Materials

Wood Named Size Actual* Actual**


USA Inch M illimeter
1x2 3/4 x 1-1/2 19 x 38
1x4 3/4 x 3-1/2 19 x 89
1x6 3/4 x 5-1/2 19 x 140
2x4 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 38 x 89
2x6 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 38 x 140
Aluminum 1/8 x 3/4 1/8 x 3/4 3.1 x 19
Angle
Aluminum 1/8 x 1 1/8 x 1 3.3 x 25.6
Flat Bar
(Optional)
Steel Pipe 1/2 ID 0.6 ID 15.3 ID
(Black - Gas (Inside 0.85 OD
Pipe) D iameter) ~7/8 inch 21.6 OD
Plastic Cutting 1/4 0.26 6.7
Board
3/8 (Preferred) 0.38 9.7
Bolts & #8 0.162 4.1 ~4
Screws ~11/64
#10 0.186 4.7 ~5
~3/16
1/4 1/4 6.35 ~6
5/16 5/16 7.94 ~8

*Actual Inch is the size that the board is supposed to be. However, wood’s variation due to moisture etc. can
be as much as 1/4 inch, and 1/16 to 1/8 inch variation is common.
Metal will also vary, but not to this extreme.

**Actual Millimeter is the measurement taken from actual stock, the dimensions are rounded. These values
are not necessarily the metric dimension that the stock is called by the supplier.

10
Home Center Parts: Basic Machine
1·9 Materials Notes Quantity Material Nominal (Named) Size
21" Wood 1x2
The chart on the right is a 117" 1x4
materials list of the home center 14" 1x6
components for the basic machine 64" 2x4
as shown below. 32" 2x6
43" Aluminum Angle 1/8 x 3/4"
12" or 15" See 4·14 & 8·14 Flat Bar 1/8 x 1" (Optional)
164" (10' + 5') Black Pipe ½" ID See 1·16
28 Drywall Screws 1-5/8"
12 Decking Screws 2-1/2 to 3"
Basic Machine
42" Threaded rod #10
A detailed list is on the following 48" 5/16-18
page, and materials lists for the 4+ See Note 1 Carriage Bolts 5/16-18 x 2-1/2"
bed and stand, and the non-home 9+ 5/16-18 x 3"
center items follow.
20 Bolts 5/16" 5/16-18 x 1"
2 5/16-18 x 1-1/2"
Also included are images showing
the cut patterns, so the stock can 1 1/4" 1/4-20 x 1"
be used efficiently. 1 1/4-20 x 1-1/2"
7 Machine #10 #10 x 2-1/2"
3 Screws #10 x 3"
6 #8-32 #8 x 3/4"
Notes (From Hom e Center Parts Lists)
2 #8 x 1"
1. 5/16-18 C arriage Bolts: 12 #8 x 1-1/2"
3 #8 x 1-3/4"
A total of 13 are needed. All can be 3 inches.
2 #8 x 2"
T he four bolts for the X leadnuts can be 2-1/2
1 Tee Nut #10 Match 2-1/2" Screw
inches.
2 Nuts 3/8"
T he eight bolts for the aluminum outriggers can 118 5/16"
be 2-1/2 inches.
T hese eight bolts for the wooden ou triggers 1 1/4"
have to be 3 inches. 23 for Screws #10 Note: The threads of the
10 for Rods threaded rods and the machine
T he bolt for the X idler can be 2-1/2 inches with
screws may be different.
a shortened coupler-idler.
33 #8

2. 5/16" W ashers. 59 Washers 5/16"


4 See Note 2 5/16" ID ~9/16" OD
T he 5/16" x 9/16" w ashers can be made from
3 1/4"
5/16" lock washers. Bend the ends so they are
flat. 3/8" lock washers can also be used. 69 #10 Also Use with #8 Screws
3" See Note 3 Hose 1/4" ID 2@ 1-1/4"
3. Hose and C lam ps. 4 See Note 3 Hose Clamps To Match Hose
T he hose and clamps can be used as leadscrew
12 inches Plumbing Strap 3/4" Wide “Hanger Tape”
to stepper c ouplings, and as collar clamps. 1 Coupler 3/4" CPVC Plumbing (Yellow)
T hese can be replaced with commercially made or ½" PVC Electrical (Grey)
couplers and clamps. T he commercial ones are
much easier to align, but cost more.
1 Bottle Wood Glue Yellow Glue
H ose is difficult to use with leadscrews that are 1 Tube Loctite Non Hardening Thread-Locker
over 5/16 inch in diameter.
1 Pack Epoxy Glue
See Sec. 1· 17 Cutting Board Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board

11
The following table shows where the materials are used. The parts are listed with the axis they are attached to, not
the axis with which they function.

Home Center Parts: Basic Machine Details


Notes Material Nominal (Named) Quantity X Axis Y Gantry Z Carriage
Size Rounded Up
Wood 1x2 21" 4@ 3" Outriggers 1@ 8.75" Z Plate
1x4 117" 2@ 38.25" or - 2@ 6.25" Top & Bot.
1@ 38.25" & 2@ ~9.25" Sides
2@ 11.25" 2@ 4.75" Back
1x6 14" - 2@ 7" -
2x4 64" 2@ 32" - -
2x6 32" - 1@ 32" -

Aluminum Angle 43" - 2@ 4.5" X Leadnut 2@ ~9.25" Y Trucks


1/8 x 3/4" 2@ 6.25" Z Trucks
1@ ~2.75" Cross Tie
Flat 1/8 x 1" (Optional) 12" or 15" - 4@ 2.75" Outrigger 1@ ~2.75" Cross Tie

Black Pipe ½” ID See Sec. 1·16 164" (10' + 5') 2@ 32" 2@ 32" 2@ 18"

Drywall Screws 1-5/8" 28 4 Brng. Flanges - 16 Hold Carriage


8 Tie 1x4s
Decking Screws 2-1/2 to 3" 12 - 8 Y End Plates 4 Z Top & Bot. Plates

Threaded Rod #10 42" - 2@ 1-7/8" Bot. Front 2@ ~12" Y Tension


X Bearing Axles 2@ ~7" Z Tension
5/16" 48" 6@ 4.25" Rails 6@ 3.25" Rail Ties 1@ 2.5" Leadnut

Carriage Bolts 5/16 x 2-1/2" 4+ See Note 1 1 Idler or 3" 4 X Leadnut Angle -
8 Al. Outrigger or 3"
5/16 x 3" 9 See Note 1 1 Idler 8 Wood Outrigger -

Bolts & Screws 5/16 x 1" 20 - 4 Outrigger Axles 8 Z Trucks


5/16-18 8 Y Trucks Axles
5/16 x 1-1/2" 2 - 2 Bottom X Axles -

1/4-20 1/4 x 1" 1 - - 1 Router Mount


1/4 x 1-1/2" 1 - - 1 Router Clamp

#10-32 or 24 #10 x 2-1/2" 7 4 X Stepper 1 Y Stepper Mount 2 Z Rail Ties


#10 x 3" 3 3 Y Stepper Mount

#8-32 #8 x 3/4" 6 - 4 X Leadnuts 2 Cross Tie


#8 x 1" 2 - - 2 Z Leadnut
All #8 and #10 #8 x 1-1/2" 12 - 2 Y Bearing Flange 2 Z Bearing Flange
Machine Screws 2 Y Bottom Truck
are Round Head 4 Z Trucks
2 Y Leadnut
#8 x 1-3/4" 3 - - 1 Z Stepper Mount
2 Y Top Truck
#8 x 2" 2 - - 2 Z Stepper Mount

Tee Nut #10 1 Match Screw - 1 Y Stepper Mount -

12
Notes Material Nominal Size Quantity X Axis Y Gantry Z Carriage
Nuts 3/8" 2 - 2 Spacers X Bearing -
5/16" 110 18 X Rails 24 X Bearing Bolts 16 Z Trucks
3 X Idler 2 Bottom Studs 1 Z Leadnut Bracket
+8 Al Outrigger 8 (Optional) 12 X Leadnut Brackets
Al. Outriggers 16 Y Trucks
Total 118 18 Y Rails
1/4" 1 1 Router Clamp
#10 23 for Screws 12 X Stepper 11 Y Stepper 4 Y Tension Rods
10 for Rod 2 Bottom X Bearings 4 Z Tension Rods
#8 33 - 2 Bearing Flange 2 Flange, 9 Stepper
4 X Leadnuts 4 Z &Y Lnut, 2 Tie
10 Z &Y Trucks

Washers 5/16" 59 12 Pipe Mounts 20 X Bearings 1 Leadnut Bracket


~2 Idler 12 X Leadnut Mount
12 Pipe Mounts
5/16" ID ~9/16" OD 4 Note 2 - 4 X Wood Outriggers
1/4" 3 - - 3 Router Mount
#10 69 12 X Stepper 11 Y Stepper 8 Z&Y Tension
Also Use with #8 4 X Leadnuts 2 Y Bearing Flange 2 Z Bearing Flange
Screws 4 Flanges 2 Bottom X Bearings 8 Z Stepper
2 Y Leadnut 4 Decking screws
8 Z&Y Trucks
2 Z Leadnut

Hose (See p. 64) 1/4" ID 3" - 1-1/4" Coupler 1-1/4" Coupler


Hose Clamps To Match Hose 4 - 2 2
Plumbing Strap 3/4" Wide 12" - - Router Mount
Coupler 3/4" CPVC Plumbing 1 1 X Idler - -
or ½” PVC Electrical
Wood Glue Small Bottle Often Called Carpenter’s or Yellow Glue
Loctite Thread Locker Non Hardening 1 Tube Prefer Loctite “Green” Apply After Assembly
Epoxy Glue 1 Pack
Cutting Board 1 Small Plastic Kitchen Cutting Board 3/8" See Section 1·17

1·10 Basic Machine, Cut 1x4

The 1x4 parts of the Basic Machine can be cut from 1x4x96 inch boards, as shown below.
For the open front machine, scrap from the Stand can be used for the one X front leg, and the second 1x4 shown
below will be unnecessary.

T he 1x4 parts for the basic machine cut from 1x4x96" boards. T he Z sides may be longer; measure the Y trucks first. See Section 6·3.

13
1·11 Table Bed Materials

The table bed is made of 1x4 and 2x4 boards; the lengths and parts are in the list below.

Table Bed
Notes Material Size Total Pieces
Wood 1x4 3@ 8' 9@ 32" Slats
2x4 200" 3@ 32.25"
~17' 2@ 32" Side
4@ 9.75" Legs
Bed with 2x4 legs.
Drywall- 1-5/8" 72 14 X 1x4s
Decking Screws 58 Top
2-1/2" 36 12 2x4 Frame
to 3" 24 2x4 Legs

The bed of the table is made of three 1x4x96


boards that are cut to 32 inches each.
O pen front machine on bed.

1·12 Machine and Table Bed, Cut 2x4

Three 2x4x96" boards will provide enough stock for the Machine and Table Bed when three 32 inch lengths
can be cut from one 8 ft. board.

This assumes that the boards are of good quality for their entire length, which may be unlikely.
Four 2x4 boards will allow the blemishes to be avoided.
(There are no 2x4s in the stand.)

T he 2x4 parts for the machine and table bed can be cut from three 8 ft. boards. See note about board length. Section 2·5.

14
1·13 Stand, Cut 1x4

The stand is made of 1x4 boards that are cut to length, and glued and screwed together.
Its parts list is on the right, and the cuts from four 1x4x96 boards are shown below.

Stand
Notes Material Size Total
Wood 1x4 4@ 8'

Drywall Screws 1-e" 44


Wood Screws ¾" For Hinges 12 Hinges
and Casters 16 Casters
Bolts ½ x 3" 2
Nuts ½" 2
Stand, and Machine with T able Bed on Stand. Washers ½" 6

Hinges ~3" 2
Casters 2" 4

C ut layout for stand 1x4s S ee Section 2·2.

15
1·14 Wood Notes
The range of elasticity within a species of wood is
The minimum wood required for the entire open almost as wide as the variability between species.
front machine, including the base and stand Therefore, a good southern yellow pine stud can be
follows. The values are rounded up to the nearest as stiff as a piece of oak, not necessarily stronger,
foot. but stiffer, since hardwoods tend to be strong but
flexible.
3@ 2x4x8'
8@ 1x4x8'
2' of 1x2 1·15 Hardware Notes
3' of 2x6
2' of 1x6 There are a total of 144 1-5/8 inch drywall screws
required for the machine, table and stand. Coarse
Framing lumber will work well, but it is important thread screws hold well in the soft wood.
for the boards to be clear and straight. It may be
necessary to purchase an extra board or two, so The total of 2-1/2 to 3 inch decking screws is 48.
knots and blemishes can be cut around. These vary in length between stores.

Eight foot boards are shown in these plans because These screws are used to hold two 2x4s together.
they can fit in many cars when the passenger seat Therefore, the tips of 3 inch screws may protrude
is folded down. from the backs of the boards, and their ends will
This machine was designed to be small shop have to be ground.
friendly, no stationary tools or trucks required.
Buying most of the hardware in bulk is
recommended, even when there will be extra, since
Other wood can be used. the per piece price is high.

The following information is based on Some of the online leadscrew suppliers also sell
manufacturers’ documentation as well as tests done hardware at prices that are below those of home
in this shop. centers.

Solid wood is stiffer than plywood with the grain,


and more flexible across the grain.

Different types of plywood are similar in


stiffness, whether birch, poplar or pine core.

The number of plies increases stability, but not


necessarily the stiffness. Therefore, a well chosen
piece of pine sheathing ply can be as stiff as a
piece of poplar or birch core cabinet plywood.

MDF is not as stiff as plywood. It is dense and


stable, but not stiff.

16
1·16 Cut Pipe

The pipe rails on which the bearings ride are all and ten foot length of pipe can be cut as shown
made of 1/2 inch ID (inside diameter) gas pipe. It below. The threads are left on the pipes only to
is also called black iron pipe. Its outside diameter reduce the number of cuts.
is around 7/8 inch and its actual inside diameter is
larger than the named 1/2 inch. The 33 inch threaded sections can be placed on the
X axis; the threads can be on the X stepper end of
It is usually found in the plumbing section of home the machine. They will overhang the 1x4 end
centers and can be purchased in a variety of board.
lengths. Be sure to take the extra length into account when
The home centers will often make a few cuts when measuring the stud holes.
the pipe is purchased. Note: The bottom pipe on the Y axis cannot be cut
Four sections are 32 inches long; however, a five long.

Pipe cut long to allow for threaded ends.

1·17 Kitchen Cutting Board

The Bearing Flanges and Z Leadnut Bracket are made of


plastic kitchen cutting board. This material is easy to work,
and will not tear-out or split, unlike small pieces of wood.

The cutting boards are available in a variety of thicknesses;


1/4 inch will work well for the bearing flanges, but a 1/4 inch
plastic Z leadnut bracket will flex under heavier cutting loads.

A 3/8 inch thick cutting board will serve better when used for
the Z bracket and bearing flanges.
As shown on the right, one small cutting board will supply
enough material for all of the parts.

The bearings will protrude from the face of the flanges. This
is not a problem; the side loads are minimal, and the thrust
loads are carried by the back of the flange.
The bearings do not have to fit tightly in the flanges. The Parts in 3/8 inch plastic cutting board.
bearings can be wrapped with tape to tighten the fit should the
recesses in the flanges be too large in diameter.

17
Note that all threaded rod and leadscrews on this
1·18 Bearings machine can be standard right hand thread. There
is no need for left hand thread. The machine will
The bearings that ride the rails are 608 bearings, not work when left hand and right hand thread are
which are also sold as skate bearings. The outside combined on the dual leadscrew axis.
diameter is 22mm and the bore is 8mm.
These two dimensions are close enough to 7/8 and The least expensive leadscrews are All Thread.
5/16 inch that tools and bolts of these Imperial Rods of 5/16 and 3/8 inch diameter will give
dimensions can be used with these skate bearings. reasonable accuracy at a low price.
Half inch All Thread has a rough surface, and is
These bearings are often available at sports shops not recommended for use as a leadscrew.
in packets of 8 or 16 because they are used with
roller blades. All Thread is not efficient because of its thread
profile and rough surface. This inefficiency wastes
The quality of these bearings spans a range of the stepper’s power, so speeds and cutting forces
ABEC ratings. The experience here has been that are lower.
any ABEC rating will suffice. However, 608
bearings with no ABEC rating may be too flimsy Another disadvantage with All Thread is its high
and can fail with extended use. thread count.
Standard 5/16 and 3/8 inch threaded rods have 18
Bearings that are 7/8 x 5/16 inch will also work, and 16 threads per inch respectively.
but they usually are higher priced than the more This means the stepper has to rotate 18 (or 16)
common skate bearings. times to move the axis one inch.

The machine uses standard bearings for the Steppers deliver the most torque at slower speeds.
leadscrew supports. Thrust bearings are not used The top speed of steppers is usually around 1000
because they tend to be harder to find and are more rpm, but higher torque can only be expected up to
expensive. The thrust loads on the bearings are low around 500 rpm.
enough that standard bearings will serve well.
When the stepper is turning at 500 rpm with an 18
The popular leadscrew sizes are 5/16 inch, 3/8 inch turn per inch leadscrew, the axis will only move at
and 1/2 inch. The outside diameter of bearings 500/18 = 28 inches per minute. This is slow for a
with these sized bores are usually 7/8 inch for the CNC machine; it will work, but jobs take a long
smaller two sizes and 1-1/8 inch for the 1/2 inch time to complete.
bore.
These sizes of bearings may be locally available This slow speed can also cause the router bits to
from automotive and farm supply stores, though burn or melt the stock that is being routed. This
the prices can be high. can be addressed by slowing the router bit’s speed
The bearings are available online from vxb.com with a simple speed control or with a variable
and skatebearings.com. These companies have speed router, but again, the slowness of the job can
delivered good products at a fair price. be annoying.

Acme rod’s thread profile is designed to carry


1·19 Leadscrews and Leadnuts
loads more efficiently, and precision Acme has a
Also see Section 9·4
smoother surface. These factors permit Acme rod
to move the axes more quickly than All Thread.
The leadscrews can range in quality from hardware
store threaded rod, All Thread, to precision Acme
Acme rod is available in a variety of thread counts
rod. The price for a 36 inch leadscrew can range
and materials. Since this CNC machine is not
from $3 to over $50.

18
designed to run all day everyday, the material Anti-backlash leadnuts will give accuracy closer to
choice can usually be based on price. 0.001 inch, and are used with Acme leadscrews.
These leadnuts generally cost $15 to $30 each.
The fewer the turns per inch of the leadscrew, the
faster the axes can move.
Multi-start Acme screws with 2 turns per inch are 1·20 Upgrading
available. With a 2 turn per inch leadscrew and a
500 rpm stepper, the axis could supposedly move Some builders will want to build a better quality
at 500/2= 250 inches per minute. machine from the onset. Others will want to get
This speed is unlikely to be achieved with this something running as quickly and cheaply as
machine. However, rapids approaching 200 ipm possible, with the intention of upgrading later when
are possible. time, budget and need warrant.

Another common turn-count of leadscrews is 5 The simplest low cost version uses 5/16 inch
turns per inch, which will give rapids in excess of threaded rods and tee nuts for the leadscrews and
100 ipm. leadnuts.

A 3/8 inch diameter 10 thread per inch, 2 start, 5 The leadscrews’ supporting bearings will be skate
turn per inch leadscrew is sold by mcmaster.com, bearings like the ones that ride the rails.
and dumpstercnc.com sells couplers, clamps and There are a total of 7 leadscrew bearings, so the
leadnuts for this size. machine’s total of skate bearings will be 37. These
This size works well on all axes of this machine. can be purchased in bulk for less than $1 each.

Half inch Acme leadscrews will also fit, but the The X axis uses a pair of leadscrews, which of
clearance is tight on the Y axis, and very tight on course means that upgrades on this axis will be
the Z. One prototype uses 1/2 inch 2 turn per inch twice the cost of upgrades on the Y axis.
Acme on the X axis with 3/8 inch 5 turn per inch
on the Y and Z axes. This configuration works
well, but a variety of options will serve just as well. It is possible to achieve significantly better cutting
speeds by upgrading only the Y axis. This is
An advantage of larger diameter leadscrews is they especially true when the cuts are made with parallel
are more resistant to whipping. On this machine, passes.
with the 25 x 25 inch cutting area, leadscrew
whipping is not a serious problem, so 3/8 Acme The upgraded and faster Y gantry axis would be
can serve as well as 1/2 inch. used to run each parallel pass. The slower X axis
would be used to move the gantry the small
Again, shopping by price and availability of increment at the end of each pass. Since the Y is
matching parts will give a good machine. moving far more than the X, the slower X axis will
not significantly lower the speed of the run.
Note that purchasing a 6 ft. leadscrew and cutting
it into two 3 foot pieces may save some money. The upgraded Y axis can also improve
performance on runs that are not parallel passes.
The leadnuts also range in price and quality. The pattern to be cut would be placed on the table
Hardware store tee nuts can be used with All so its longer dimension is in line with the Y gantry.
Thread. Their precision will be in the 0.003 to Again, since there is more motion in the faster Y
0.007 inch range. direction than in the X, the speed of the run will
Tee nuts are more challenging to align than anti- increase.
backlash leadnuts, but they can serve well, and the
price is low at around $1 each. On most jobs the Z axis moves a shorter distance

19
than the other two axes. Therefore, this axis also A section of hose with a hose clamp can also be
can use a slower and cheaper leadscrew without used on the ends of the leadscrews instead of the
greatly slowing the overall run. collar clamps or nuts. This can save the cost of a
set of collar clamps when multi-start Acme
leadscrews are used, and inexpensive multi-start
The X pulleys can be aluminum, or plastic with nuts are unavailable.
aluminum inserts.
When buying with the intention of upgrading to Nuts for most single start threaded rods are
larger leadscrews, aluminum pulleys should be inexpensive, and are easier to use than the hose and
purchased. Their bores can be drilled to the desired clamp system.
larger size.

It may be necessary to drill and tap setscrew holes The rails can be replaced with better quality pipe
through the toothed section of the re-drilled pulley or rod. Drill rod can be used; since it is solid, it
since the walls of the drilled-out hub may be too will have to be tapped for the studs to be tied to it.
thin to support the original setscrews.
Commercially made linear bearings can be used in
place of the rails. The price of these bearings varies
Hose and clamps can be used for the leadscrew to considerably; but even the less expensive ones have
stepper couplings. These serve well, but can be tolerances that surpass the black pipe rail system.
challenging to align. However, using them on a wooden machine is
unlikely to markedly improve precision since the
wood will still flex.

1·21 Suppliers

Mcmaster.com, use-enco.com and mscdirect.com sell precision leadscrews, leadnuts and collar clamps in a
variety of sizes
Sdp-si.com and econobelt.com sell belts and pulleys.
Dumpstercnc.com sells collar clamps, anti-backlash leadnuts and stepper couplers to match a number of
mcmaster.com’s leadscrews.
Vxb.com and skatebearings.com sell bearings.
Price ranges are wide; it can pay to shop around.

20
1·22 Leadscrew Parts The leadscrews and their components have to
exactly match on each axis.
The next table lists the components that will Before ordering leadscrews, make sure the
probably have to be ordered. matching leadnuts, couplers and clamps are
The collar clamps can be replaced with lock nuts, available.
a pair of standard nuts, or a section of hose with a It is recommended to start with dumpstercnc’s
hose clamp. parts, match with mcmaster’s leadscrews, and use
All components can be the same size, or each axis sdp-si for the belt and pulleys.
can use differently sized leadscrews.

Leadscrew Worksheet
Z Axis Quantity Diameter Acme or Threads Thread Turns
or Bore All Thread per Inch Starts per Inch
Leadscrew 1
~12 Inches
Leadnut 1 Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above

Collar Clamp (1) Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above

Lock Nuts Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above

Stepper Coupler 1 Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above

Bearings 1 Sam e as Above

Y Axis Quantity Diameter Acme or Threads Thread Turns


or Bore All Thread per Inch Starts per Inch
Leadscrew 1
36 Inches
Leadnut 1 Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above

Collar Clamp (1) Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above

Lock Nuts Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above

Stepper Coupler 1 Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above

Bearings 2 Sam e as Above

X Axis Quantity Diameter Acme or Threads Thread Turns


or Bore All Thread per Inch Starts per Inch
Leadscrew 2
36 Inches
Leadnut 2 Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above

Collar Clamps (2) Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above

Lock Nuts Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above Sam e as Above

Bearings 4 Sam e as Above

XL Pulleys 2 Sam e as Above All pulleys: 15 Teeth, Flanged, For 3/8" Belt
XL Pulley 1 1/4" Can be Aluminum, or Plastic with Aluminum Hub

XL Belt 1 Single Side, Closed End, 3/8" Wide, 414 Teeth (Grooves)
Bearings (608) 30 22 x 8mm 2 X Idler 12 X Rails 8 Y Rails 8 Z Rails

The sdp-si part number for the belt is: A 6R3-414037


A 15 tooth XL 1/4" bore, plastic with aluminum insert, pulley is: A 6Z 3-15DF03708
The bores of the other two XL 15 tooth (groove) pulleys must match the leadscrews. Larger bore pulleys are
only available in aluminum.

21
2·1 Router Stand Overview

This section of the plans can be ignored by those


who do not want to build this table stand.

The router machine, with its table bed, can be


mounted on a stand. The stand permits the machine
to be pivoted down and rolled away for storage.

T he stand is made from 1x4s that are cut to length.


In the above image the stand is shaded and the table
bed fram e is white.

The back legs, 9 and 10, are hinged to the bottom


of the stand, and swing outward so the table bed
can pivot downward as shown below.

Machine swivelled down


O pen front m achine on table for storage.
bed and stand with casters.

Neither the stand nor the bed are required for the
basic router machine. However, the stand and bed
are handy, and building them first makes further
construction easier, especially when a dedicated
work surface is unavailable.
T he back legs can T he table’s bed can
hinge outward. then drop.

Note: The steppers do not have enough power to


pull the gantry or carriage up a steep incline. If 2·2 Stand Construction
they did, the machine could operate with the bed at
an angle; this would permit the machine to have a The 1x4s are cut to length as shown in the drawing
smaller footprint. Unfortunately, the load is too at the bottom of the next page.
high for the machine to perform well when angled,
and the machine has to be fairly level to achieve The parts can be cut from any length of board.
good cutting forces and speeds. Eight foot boards are shown because they will fit
inside many cars when the passenger seat-back is
lowered, and the length is an easily found size.
The stand is made entirely of 1x4s that are cut to
length and screwed together. These boards’ actual The original ends of the lumber as purchased are
dimensions are 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches. not always cut clean or square. Therefore, it is
often worthwhile to trim a fraction off one end of
The table bed pivots on two 1/2 x 3 inch bolts that the boards before measuring and cutting the first
attach it to the front legs, numbered 7 and 8 in the part. There is enough extra stock for this to be
following drawing. done on all four 8 foot (96 inch) boards for the
stand.

22
The following information refers to the image
below and the one at the bottom of this page. The parts are held together with glue and 1-5/8
inch drywall screws.
Parts 1 and 2 are 24 inches long.
Parts 3 and 4 are 18 inches. Holes for the screws have to be drilled in some of
Parts 5 and 6 are 18 inches, and are cut at 45 the boards.
degrees on each end.
Parts 7 and 8 are 32 inches. Pilot holes may also be required in the boards that
Parts 9 and 10 are 29 inches. will receive the threads of the screws.
Parts 11, 12 and 13 are 36-7/8 inches long.
The 3/16 inch screw holes that are drilled in the
pieces can be used as templates for the pilot holes
in the matching parts.

Hold the parts together in the proper position and


drill through the 3/16 inch hole into the second
board with the smaller drill bit.

The smaller pilot hole can be drilled with a 1/8 inch


drill bit.

All screw heads are countersunk; the softness of


the wood will probably permit the screws to pull
C omponent 1x4s of stand.
themselves into the wood, so drilling a countersink
depression may be unnecessary.
Note in the drawing at page bottom that part 6 will
only fit on the second board when part 6's diagonal Likewise, trim washers can be used with the
is cut near part 5's diagonal. These shared diagonal screws. These dress-up the appearance and help to
edges can be made with one 45 degree cut. prevent the wood from splitting as the screw heads
tighten into place.

The 13 pieces can be cut to length at this time. It All screw holes’ positions are straightforward, and
will make construction easier to mark the board they can be drilled by eye rather than by exactly
number on each piece as it is cut. following the dimensions that are shown on the
following page.

8 foot 1x4s for stand.

23
The ends of parts 11 It will then match the
and 12 are drilled as other side of the stand.
shown on the right.
Screw and glue the bottom
The pivot bolt holes boards, 1 and 2, to the
are drilled in the tops bottom of the 7-8-11-12
of legs 7 and 8 as assembly. The ends of
shown below. parts 1 and 2 are flush
with the edges of boards 7,
The two bolts for the H oles for screw are drilled in each
end of boards 11 and 12.
8 and 12.
pivots are 1/2 x 3
inch. Assemble these boards
now; check for square Attach 1 and 2 to
The sides and before tightening the the bottom .
ends of part 12 screws.
are flush with the
ends and sides of Parts 3 and 4 serve as
legs 7 and 8. strong-backs to prevent
H ole for pivot bolts in top of parts 1 and 2 from
Cross members legs 7 and 8. flexing. They are abutted
11 and 12 are to legs 7 and 8, and are
around 11 inches apart. screwed into place with
This dimension is not the three bottom screws.
critical, but part 11
should be parallel to Parts 1 and 2 can be used
part 12. as templates for the
matching pilot holes if Attach 3 and 4 to 1 and 2.

Legs 7 and 8, and cross pilots are needed.


members 11 and 12, can Glue can be applied to all matching surfaces.
be glued and screwed
together now. Parts 3 and 4 can be installed now.
Check for square before Parts 11 and 12 are 11
tightening the screws inches apart.

into place.

The bottom boards, 1 and 2, can be drilled using


the layout that is shown at the bottom of the page,
and one board can be flipped so it is mirrored.
Stand components.

H oles in bottom boards 1 and 2.

24
H ole placement in diagonals.

The diagonals, parts 5 and 6, are Holes are drilled in the


cut and drilled as shown above. bottom of both back legs
The part is drilled symmetrically, for the screws that
so the one pattern can serve for attach to part 13. Right
both pieces. image.
The darkened hole may
These diagonal supports are block a hinge hole.
attached to the sides as shown. The screws that attach
They are aligned so their 45° edges Install diagonals
the hinges can replace Screw hole locations in the
5 and 6.
are flush with the legs and bottom this bottom screw by bottom of the back legs. Leg

boards. using 1-5/8 inch screws.


10 is a mirror of this.

Check that the bottom and legs are square, and The hinges can be a variety of styles. The ones on
glue and screw the diagonals into place. the prototype were low cost door hinges.

The hinges are


screwed to bottom
The back legs of the stand, parts 9 and 10, are boards 1 and 2 as
hinged to the bottom boards, parts 1 and 2. shown.

The back legs are Hinge attached to board 1.


then rested on the
faces of the hinges that are
tied to the bottom boards.
The backs of the hinges are
then pivoted to be flush with
the leg boards, and are
screwed into place as shown.

Back legs are hinged. The legs’ screw heads may be H inge attached to leg.
on the wrong side of the
Back legs screwed to part
13
hinges in regard to the hinges’ countersunk holes.
The back legs, 9 and 10, are tied together with In this application this is not a problem. Finish
cross member 13. washers or round head screws can be used to
improve the appearance if desired.

25
Other hinges and
orientations can be used. 2·3 Table Bed Overview
The hinges can be
positioned so they are The table bed uses 2x4s for the frame and 1x4s
completely underneath for the surface. The 1x4s are spaced apart so
the ends of the back legs hold-down clamps can be tied into the slots
as shown. between the boards.
Again, the method H inge entirely underneath
the leg.
previously described
took advantage of
inexpensive locally available hinges, but there are
many options.

Hinges are not required. The legs could rest on the


ends of nails or screws that protrude up through Completed table bed made of 1x4s
screwed to a 2x4 fram e.
boards 1 and 2. The nails would keep the legs from
falling off of the bottom boards while still The surface can also be made of sheet stock such
permitting the legs to be moved when the as plywood or tee slot MDF.
machine’s table bed is lowered.
The table top in these plans is built of 1x4s so
The back leg there would be no need to carry and cut sheet
length may need to stock. Also, it is a bother to have to buy an entire
be altered so the sheet for this one small piece.
table bed will be
level. If too short,
shims can be During the Z axis construction, a 1x4 slat will be
placed on the top Shim on top of leg.
removed to permit the spindle plate to be lifted up
end of each leg, or through the table bed and into the carriage.
shims can be placed on the matching surfaces
underneath the table bed frame. This will be done
after the table bed is made.

Casters can be attached to boards 1 and 2 at this


time. They are not mandatory, but they do make
moving the table for storage much easier.
The prototypes use 2 inch casters from home
centers. T he table bed with one missing slat.

A sheet stock table bed will block this. The gantry


All four casters can swivel, which will permit will have to be partially removed from the X rails
easier maneuvering into tight places. Or two to permit the spindle plate installation. This is not
casters can be fixed and the other two can swivel. a big problem, but it is less convenient.

The two fixed casters make it easier to steer the


unit without it wandering in the wrong direction. There are other advantages to the 1x4 surface.
Assemble the stand before moving on to the next Chips fall through the slots to the floor; this keeps
steps. the slots from clogging and making it difficult to
slide the hold-down clamps.

26
The open slots also permit small parts, such as bits The image at the bottom of the page shows the
during bit changes, to fall through; the parts do not frame’s parts as they are cut from 8 foot 2x4s.
become lost underneath the overhangs of standard
tee slots.
2·5 Wood Note The 32 inches divide evenly into
The individual boards can be replaced when the 96 inch (8 foot) 2x4s. However, this leaves no
damaged from continued use. There is no need to room for the kerf removed by the saw blade, or for
replace an entire sheet of wood. the squaring of the ends of the boards, which may
be necessary.

2·4 Table Bed Frame The two sides of the X axis are also 32 inches long.
These are the rail support 2x4s shown in Section
The table bed frame is made of 2x4s that are cut to 3·5.
length and screwed and glued together. The screws
are 2-1/2 to 3 inch decking screws or similar. Three 2x4x96 inch boards can supply enough 2x4
material for the entire machine when three 32 inch
The frame’s outside dimensions are 35-1/4 x 32 lengths can be cut from one 8 foot board. Some
inches, and the lengths of the 2x4s are 32-1/4 and sawmills cut stock long enough for nominal 8 foot
32 inches. boards to work. Otherwise, four boards will be
necessary. Four boards will also be required when
using pre-cut (93 inch) studs.

Note also, the length of pre-cut wall studs varies


regionally. They are sometimes of better quality
than regular 2x4 lumber, but their lengths are not
exactly 8 feet. They are sometimes referred to as 8
foot studs, but they are often shorter than 8 feet.
O utside dimensions of table bed.
35-1/4 x 32 inches.

The 2x4s for the table frame can be cut to length


now.

T he frame is made of 32-1/4 inch and


32 inch 2x4s.

8 foot 2x4s for frame of table bed. See Section 1·12.

27
H ole positions on 2x4 table bed frame side boards.
3/16 inch holes are drilled in both ends and in the middle.

Holes for the pivot bolts are drilled in the two 32 Cutting these slats from boards
inch side boards. The holes are 1/2 inch in diameter that are exactly 96 inches long
and are centered top to bottom. They are 6 inches will cause the slats to be
from the end of the board. Image above. slightly less than 32 inches
long, since some board length
Holes for the screws are also drilled in these two is lost to the kerf or width of
side boards. These screw holes are positioned so the saw blade.
their screws will not obstruct other screws that will
be attached later. Because these 1x4s only serve
as a bed, and do not determine
Pilot holes for the decking screws may need to be the dimensions of other
drilled in the ends of the 32-1/4 inch front, back components, they can be a
and middle 2x4s. This will depend on the hardness fraction short.
of the wood. Use the side boards as templates and They only have to be long
drill through their 3/16 inch holes to position the enough to be screwed to the
pilots in the ends of the 32-1/4 inch 2x4s. 2x4 table bed frame.

The pilot drill bit should be the root diameter of the Mark the 96 inch boards at 32
screws. This is the diameter of the shaft without and 64 inches and cut on the
the threads. A 1/8 inch bit will work well with marks.
many decking screws.
The resulting three pieces per
The frame should be flat and square. The shop board will be close enough to
floor can be used as a flat assembly surface when 32 inches to work well.
a large level work area is unavailable.
Drill the screw holes in the H oles in the two
outside slats.
It is recommended to have the 1x4 table bed slats, slats. The seven field boards
covered in the next section, ready to attach to the have holes in their ends
frame before assembling the frame’s 2x4s. The and middle. The two
slats will help to hold the frame square as the glue side boards also have
cures. holes in their outside
edge.

2·6 Table Bed 1x4 Slats The placement of all of


these holes is not critical
There are nine 32 inch 1x4s used for the slotted and drilling can be done
by eye.
H oles in ends of 1x4 slats.
table bed. These can be cut with no waste from
three 8 foot boards.

28
When the boards are flat and of good quality, a Finally, center the remaining slats between the
single screw in the middle of the boards can replace installed slats. A slat that is near the center can be
the two middle screws. left off at this time. This will make Z axis
construction easier.
The screws in the middle of the slats should be
countersunk so they will be less likely to be hit by 1x4 lumber is seldom exactly 3-1/2 inches wide,
wayward router bits. and the offsets can accumulate; this is why the
preceding sequence is mentioned.
The screws used here are 1-5/8 inch drywall
screws or similar. Their pilot holes are 3/16 inch. Again, these slat dimensions are not critical. As
long as the table bed is flat and square, and the
Cut and drill these nine 1x4 slats now. hold-downs can slide in the slots between the slats,
the table bed will work well.

The 2x4 frame and 1x4 slats can be assembled at


2·7 Table Bed Assembly this time.

Cut, drill, and then screw and glue the 2x4


components together. Be sure that the pivot bolt 2·8 Attach Bed to Stand
holes are on the same end of the frame; also make
sure the frame is flat and square. The bed is attached to the stand with two 1/2 x 3
inch bolts with nuts.
Install the two outside slats, parts 1 and 9 as shown Washers next to the bolt head and nut, and between
on the following page, with glue and screws the bed and stand legs will follow good practice,
immediately after assembling the 2x4 frame. Their but are unnecessary.
edges align with the sides and ends of the 2x4 The wear at these junctions is negligible, so
frame. washers will serve more for appearance than
function.
These two slats will help to hold the frame square,
and gluing them will not create a problem later. Locking nuts or Loctite should be used on the
They will be out of reach of the router bits and will bolts’ threads to keep the nuts from vibrating off.
not need to be replaced.
Installation is straightforward. Align the holes in
The other slats can be attached with screws only; the frame with the ones in the legs and install the
this will permit easy removal and replacement. bolts and nuts, and washers if desired.
Swing the table bed up to horizontal and place the
The image on the next page shows the positioning hinged legs underneath the 2x4 frame.
of the slats. The dimensions are rounded to the
nearest 1/16 inch. Check that the table is level. Different hinge types
and orientations will require different lengths for
The left dimensions are from the frame edge to the the back legs. The legs can be cut down, or shims
slats’ edges, and the right dimensions are from the can be placed on the bottom of the 2x4 frame to
frame edge to the slats’ centers. Either set of level the table bed.
dimensions can be used.
It may be easier to install the center board, slat 5, The bed does not have to be perfectly level for the
so it is centered between slats 1 and 9. router to perform properly. If the table appears
Then center slats 3 and 7 between slat 5 and the level, it is usually level enough.
outside slats.

29
Stop screw behind back leg.

To prevent the back legs from vibrating out of


position and allowing the table to fall, a pair of Bed on stand.

nails or screws should be driven into the bottom of


the table frame behind where it rests on the legs.
Above image. Assemble the bed and stand. Once this is finished,
work can begin on the router machine.
The table bed with these screws can be lifted over
the legs, and the legs can be swung out of the way
when the machine is pivoted down for storage.

Slat placement on frame. D imensions are rounded to 1/16 inch.

30
3·1 X Axis 3·2 X Axis Pipe Rails

The X axis is the frame of the CNC machine on Construction can begin with the pipe rails.
which the other axes are mounted.
It consists of two 2x4s that support the pipe rails, These pipes are tied to 2x4 rail supports with
and 1x4 ends that support the stepper and threaded studs that are cut from 5/16-18 threaded
leadscrews. rod.
The pipes are cut and drilled first; they will be used
The machine can be to position the holes in the 2x4s.
built with only the 1x4
and 2x4 horizontal
members, or it can
stand on legs, as the X axis with no legs.

images show.

The front of the T he X pipes are held to the 2x4s


machine consists of with nuts on 5/16 inch studs.

either a horizontal 1x4


that supports the X axis with short legs. The two pipe rails for the X axis are 1/2 inch inside
leadscrews, or two 1x4 diameter gas pipe that is cut to 32 inches long.
legs that also support
the leadscrews. Three 11/32 inch holes are
drilled in each pipe for the
Both versions of the studs’ attachment.
ma c hine ca n b e The dimensions are at the
attached to the table X axis with legs on bed. bottom of the page.
bed and stand.
The version with the The holes are larger than the
two 1x4 legs, the open 5/16 inch studs to allow for
front version, requires offsets in drilling. The holes
the table bed to hold can be as large as 3/8 inch
the machine square. if needed. They cannot be so
large as to allow the nuts to
O pen front X axis on bed.
offset in the holes or to pull
through the pipe.
T hreaded stud tying
pipe to 2x4.

Pipes are ½ ID black iron pipe. O utside diameter is around 7/8 inch. Section 1·16 shows a cut layout for all pipes.

31
Use a center punch to mark the holes’ positions.
Sighting down the pipe from one end can help in 3·4 Install Studs in Pipes
making sure the holes are all in a straight line.
The studs are held into the pipes with
Drill pilot holes at the punch marks; the pilots can a nut on each side of the pipe.
be 1/8 inch. Installing the pipes’ inside nuts is not
as tedious as it may first seem.
Step up in drill sizes to the final 11/32 diameter.
1/4 inch usually works well as the intermediate Make sure that the nuts start easily
drill size. Using multiple smaller steps to the final on the ends of the studs.
drill size can give cleaner and better aligned work.
Put a punch, awl, pencil or similar in
The pipes can be cut and drilled now. the pipe’s center hole and roll a 5/16
inch nut down the inside of the pipe
until it stops against the punch.
The Y and Z pipes are similar to the X pipes and
can also be cut and drilled now, while the tools are Lay the pipe down, with the nut in it,
at hand. and with the pipe’s holes facing up. Stud in pipe.
The dimensions for the Y pipes are in Section 4·2.
The Z are in Section 8·12. Section 1·16 shows a Use the punch to align the nut with the hole.
cut layout for all pipes. Insert the stud through the hole and thread it into
the nut.

3·3 X Threaded Studs Initially, press the nut down against the bottom of
the pipe while turning the stud into it. Then use the
The threaded studs that tie the pipe stud to pull the nut against the hole and continue
rails to the 2x4s are cut from 5/16- tightening.
18 threaded rod. Six at 4-1/4 inches
are required for the X axis. The stud can be turned onto the nut far enough for
the stud to touch the far side of the pipe. This will
Their cut ends are filed or sanded so help ensure that the nut does not fall off of the stud
the nuts will start easily. while work is being done elsewhere.

It is helpful to thread the nuts onto Put another nut on the stud and loosely abut the nut
the rods before cutting, and to then against the outside of the pipe. The studs should be
remove the nuts once the studs are able to move in the holes.
cut to length. This will help to clean
the threads that were damaged during Repeat this for all six studs.
cutting.
The studs should all project from the pipes in a
It is important for the nuts to start line. Remove any wayward studs, enlarge the hole
easily on the ends of the studs. in the pipe as needed, and reinstall the stud.

The six threaded studs can be cut to Stud dims.


length and filed now. Make six.

32
3·5 Rail Supports
The 2x4s are first cut to length. Then the pipes
The two pipes are with their studs are used to check the position of
supported by 2x4s that are the holes in the 2x4s.
cut to 32 inches long.
The pipes and 2x4s are the same length, so their
Holes are drilled through ends can be abutted to check that the studs align
the 2x4s for the studs that with the marks for the holes.
tie the pipes to these
boards. It is important for the studs and the holes in the
2x4s to match.
As shown in the images, the
bottom nuts are recessed in Should the drill bit be too short to span the 2x4, it
3/4 inch depressions in the will be necessary to drill the holes from both the
2x4s. This prevents the H oles in X 2x4s. O utside top and the bottom of the 2x4.
nuts from snagging the of axis is toward the

stock, and it permits the


right.
Drill the 3/4 inch recesses in the bottom of the 2x4s
basic machine to sit directly before drilling the 7/16 inch holes. It will be
on top of the stock. difficult to hold the paddle or Forstner bit true if
trying to center it in the 7/16 inch hole.
The holes through the 2x4s
are 7/16 inch to allow room As with the holes in the pipes, drill pilot holes and
for offsets with the pipe enlarge the holes incrementally.
studs or hole locations.
These holes in the 2x4s can The two 2x4s can be cut to length and drilled now.
be enlarged further if
needed. Bottom nuts recessed in
2x4.

T he 7/16 inch holes in the X 2x4s are 3/8 inch from the outside edge, and 4 inches from the ends.

33
3·6 Install Rails Attach the pipes to the 2x4s at this time.

Place a washer on each stud and insert the studs


into the holes in the 2x4. The holes in the 2x4 can 3·7 1x4 Cross Members
be enlarged if needed.
The stepper and leadscrews are held in place with
a 1x4 cross member that is on the back of the axis.

Insert the studs into holes in the 2x4.

It can be easier to install the studs when the board Stepper attached to back of machine.
and pipe are resting sideways as shown above.
The front of the axis can
Press the rail and studs completely into the 2x4. either be supported by a
similar cross member, or
Put a washer and nut on the with two 1x4 legs that
bottom end of the stud where it are attached to the table H orizontal front 1x4
projects into the recess in the bed. Right images.
2x4. The nuts that abut the
pipes can be adjusted so the stud T he lea dscr ews’
will not project beyond the bearings are supported
bottom of the 2x4. in recesses in the back
1x4. Images below.
The edge of the pipe is in line 1x4 front legs.
with the edge of the board as
shown on the right.

Incrementally tighten the nuts


that abut the pipe. Continue to
Pipe aligns with
check that the stud does not side of 2x4
project too far from the bottom
of the 2x4.

Securely tighten the nuts that abut the pipe. The R ecess in 1x4, with leg
pipe may bulge from the pressure. Lower right and 2x4 rail support. Bearing in its recess.

image.
These recesses are used in place of separate
This is not a problem; the surface bearing flanges. This reduces the parts count,
can be filed smooth if it interferes construction time, and eliminates another point of
with the travel of the bearings. adjustment. However, it is important for these
This can be addressed after the recesses to be properly spaced; their locations
gantry is installed. determine the positions of the leadscrews, and
affect the belt’s tension.
The nuts in the bottom of the
2x4s can be left loose for now. Bulge in side of pipe.
They will be tightened when the gantry is installed.

34
Cut this back 1x4 board to length, 38-1/4 inches, at this time. Section 1·10 shows how to cut the board with
a minimum of waste.
The dimensions are shown below.

D imensions for the back 1x4.

3·8 Bearing Recesses


The following images show the layout for the
The seats for the bearings are bearing holes and for the screws’ pilot holes that tie
drilled with Forstner or paddle this back 1x4 to the 2x4 pipe supports and legs.
bits. Forstner bits tend to give There are templates at the end of the manual.
cleaner work.
The bearing holes show the recess diameter for
The sizes of the recesses depend both sizes of bearings. The OD will be either 7/8 or
on the size of the bearings, which 1-1/8 inch.
depend on the size of the
leadscrews.

Leadscrews with diameters of C ross section of


5/16 and 3/8 inch fit in bearings bearing in 1x4
with an outside diameter of 7/8
inch. Half inch leadscrews require 1-1/8 OD
bearings.

The bearing’s recesses should be drilled first. It is


difficult to align the holes when the 5/8 inch Pilot and bearing recess placement on
through holes are drilled beforehand. ends of 1x4.
T he ends mirror each other.

The recesses are drilled so the bearings will be


more or less flush with the outside of the 1x4. This
is not critical, but the leadscrews’ pulleys can
chafe against the 1x4 when the bearings’ recesses
are too deep.

The through hole is drilled after the recess is


drilled. It can be 5/8 inch diameter for all bearings;
however, the 1-1/8 inch bearings’ seals may rub on
the shoulder of the through hole. The through hole
can be 7/8 inch for the 1-1/8 OD bearings, or the
shoulders of the 5/8 inch hole can be sanded or
trimmed if needed. End dims detail of back 1x4.

35
The bearing placement is important. Check that the There is a template at the end of the manual that
hole centers are 36-1/2 inches apart, as shown on will simplify the hole positioning, and negates the
the drawing at the top of the previous page. This need to study the following dimensioned images.
36-1/2 inch measure takes priority over the 7/8
inch distance that the holes are from the ends of the The two drawings
1x4. approach the hole
placement differently.
These holes and recesses can be drilled in the ends One bases the hole
of the 1x4 now. locations on radii from
the pivot hole. The
Slots and holes for stepper and
Assembly and bearing installation will be done other measures from a idler.
later. base line.

3·9 Stepper and Idler Holes

The back cross member also supports the X


stepper and idler.

H oles for stepper and idler in back 1x4


based on radii from the pivot hole.

X stepper with idler and belt.

X stepper and idler attached to 1x4.


Positions of holes for stepper and idler in the 1x4
based on the line at 18 inches from the 1x4's end.
The stepper’s mounting screws are tied to slots that
are drilled into this 1x4.
To keep the dimensions manageable, the values
The stepper is turned in these slots to adjust the have been fixed to the nearest 1/16 inch, and will
belt’s tension. work as drawn.

The dimensioned images, right column, show the The vertical line that extends through the darkened
placement of the stepper’s mounting holes, and are pivot hole is 18 inches from the end of the 1x4, and
shown for reference. serves as the base line from which other
dimensions are drawn.

36
The 7/32 inch holes are oversized for the #10 The closed front 1x4 is similar to the back 1x4
mounting screws. These holes can be enlarged if except it does not have bearing recesses, only
necessary. Washers on the #10 screws will prevent through holes for the leadscrews, and of course, it
the nuts from falling into the slots. lacks the stepper and idler holes. The templates for
the back 1x4 can be used for this board’s ends. The
The holes for the #10 mounting screws are on arcs bearing recesses are replaced with 7/8 inch holes.
whose center is the darkened 3/16 inch pivot hole.
These holes are large to permit adjustment for
Drilling the 7/32 inch slot-holes is most easily done construction offsets.
by drilling the two holes at the ends of the slots, Templates are at the end of the manual.
and then drilling the center hole that is between
these two end holes. This front 1x4 can be cut and drilled now. It will
be attached to the axis later. Again, it is important
Once the holes have been drilled, the drill bit can for the holes’ centers to be 36-1/2 inches apart.
be wobbled in the slots to smooth the holes
together.
3·11 1x4s for Open Front Machine
A Dremel, rat-tail file or similar can also be used
to clean the edges of the slots. The horizontal 1x4
is replaced with
The slots’ edges do not have to be clean to serve two vertical 1x4s
their purpose, but it is important for the #10 in the open front
screws to move freely along the length of each slot. machine.
Front 1x4 legs are darkened.
Drill and smooth these holes now. The template at These are screwed
the end of the manual simplifies this layout to the table bed to hold the
process. machine square.

The stepper and idler will be installed later. Construction of these two legs is
straightforward. The parts are
cut to length and drilled.
3·10 1x4 for Closed Front Machine
The pilot holes are positioned to
The front end of the prevent their screws from
leadscrews can be interfering with other screws on
supported either by a the machine.
horizontal 1x4 or
two 1x4 legs.
1x4 leg.
Front 1x4 is darkened.

Front 1x4 without the stepper and idler holes.

37
The two boards mirror each other. They can be Their length was also chosen to make assembly
drilled the same, and then one board can be flipped easier; the X axis can rest on 2x4 scraps to
for the other side of the properly position the axis.
machine.
Shorter legs can
Recesses are not drilled be used. Their
in these legs; bearing basic construction
flanges will hold the is the same as
bearings. these 9-3/4 inch
legs.
The 7/8 inch holes are
drilled oversized to The shorter legs
permit adjustment of the could be cut and
leadscrews’ positions. installed later
after their need
These two legs can be and size is made
cut and drilled now. clear with the use
They will be installed of the machine.
later.
There are templates at These legs are
the end of the manual. simply cut to
1x4 leg dim s
length and drilled.
2x4 leg dimensions.
The screws’ pilot
holes are positioned so they will not interfere
3·12 Machine Legs with other screws on the machine.

The X axis can sit directly These four legs can be cut and drilled now. The
on the stock, or it can Materials section shows how to cut the boards with
be supported by legs. a minimum of waste. Section 1·12.
The legs can be tied to
the table bed, or rest
on the stock or another 3·13 X Axis Assembly
work surface.
2x4 legs are darkened.

The following steps have been completed:


These legs are unnecessary The pipe rails are attached to their 2x4 supports.
for the basic machine, and
this section can The back 1x4 is cut, and drilled for the idler,
be skipped when the table stepper, bearings, and screws’ pilot holes.
bed or legs are not used.
The front horizontal 1x4 is cut and drilled, or the
two front 1x4 legs are cut and drilled.
These four legs are cut from
2x4 boards. The four 2x4 legs are cut and drilled.
They are 9-3/4 inches long.
This length permits the Z
travel to be 6+ inches. Assembly is next. It is straightforward.

2x4 side legs.

38
Rest the rail support 2x4s on the table bed or work Their hole placement is the same as the top two
surface with the pipes toward the outside edges of holes in the 9-3/4 inch legs.
the 2x4s.

Align the 2x4s with the


back 1x4 as shown on the
right, and screw and glue
the boards into place.
X axis with short legs.
The rail support 2x4s are
1-1/2 inches from the ends
of the 1x4. Their inside
edges are 3 inches from the Placem ent of 2x4 rail The X axis is attached to the table bed with the 9-
outside of the 1x4. Right support on 1x4. Pipes
are toward the outside of
3/4 inch 2x4 legs.
image. the machine.
The axis is spaced above the table bed by resting
Glue and 1-5/8 inch drywall screws or similar can the 2x4 pipe supports on scrap pieces of 2x4 or
be used to tie these boards together. 1x4.
This will raise the components 3-1/2 inches above
Check that the boards are square before tightening the surface of the table bed.
the screws into place. The legs are then attached to the table bed and the
Attach the side 2x4s to the back 1x4 now. 2x4 rail supports.

Basic X axis.

The process is the same for the optional front 1x4.


2x4 blocks supporting the axis while the legs
It can be glued and screwed into place at this time. are installed. O pen front axis shown.

Short legs can be cut to a desired length. The components are tied together with glue and 2-
1/2 to 3 inch decking screws.
The tops of all of the legs The tips of the longer screws may slightly protrude
have to be 1-1/2 inches through the wood. The exposed points are sharp
below the top of the 1x4 to and should be filed, ground or sanded.
give the leadnut clearance.
It may be necessary to drill pilot holes through the
Short legs can be installed existing leg holes and into the boards that will
now, or after the machine is receive the screws’ threads. A 1/8 inch bit works
completed. well for most decking screws.

Leg 1-1/2 inch below top The bottoms of the legs are flush with the bottom
of 2x4. and ends of the table bed’s 2x4 frame.

39
The tops of the legs are The 1x4s are attached
1-1/2 inches below the with 1-5/8 inch drywall
top of the rail support screws.
2x4s, and flush with the
ends of these 2x4s. The top screw, with the
Right image. arrow in the right
image, must be counter
This 1-1/2 inch top sunk so it will not
measure should be the interfere with the
default position when the bearing flange.
axis is resting on the 2x4 T he top of the leg is 1-1/2
blocks. inch below the top of the 1x4
Check that the legs are and 2x4.
These components of
square before tightening the X axis can be
the screws. assembled at this time.

The X axis and table


The front 1x4 legs of the open front machine are bed are now at the
installed after the 2x4 legs are attached. stage of construction
that is shown in the
The 1x4s are positioned so their outside edges are lower images. T ransparent view . 1x4 aligns
with the edges as shown.
flush with the 2x4 legs.
The gantry has to be
The 1x4's top is flush with the top of the 2x4 rail built before further work can be done to the X axis.
support, and the bottom of the 1x4 is flush with the
bottom of the table frame.

C losed front X axis on bed.

1x4 leg on machine

O pen front X axis on bed.

40
The pipes are cut to 32 inches, and 11/32 inch
4·1 Y Gantry Overview holes are drilled in them for the threaded studs.

The process for drilling the pipes and installing the


studs is the same as was done for the X pipe rails.
See Section 3·2, and Section 1·16.

The two Y pipe rails can be cut and drilled now.

C om pleted gantry.

The gantry is made of 2x6 and 1x6 boards. The 4·3 Y Threaded Studs
2x6 supports 1/2 inch ID pipe rails and 1x6 end
plates. The end plates support the Y leadscrew, The threaded studs that tie
stepper, X leadnuts, and the bearings that ride the the pipe rails to the 2x6 are
X rails. cut from 5/16-18 threaded
rod. Six at 3-1/4 inches are
required for the Y axis.

It is helpful to thread the


nuts onto the rods before
W ooden com ponents of gantry. cutting, and to then remove
the nuts once the studs are
The Y axis construction sequence is similar to the cut to length. This will help
X axis. The pipe rails are cut and drilled, and then to clean the threads that
attached to the 2x6 gantry beam. were damaged during
The end plates are fabricated and installed. cutting.
The X bearings are then attached, and the gantry is
placed on the X axis. It is important for the nuts
to start easily on the ends
of the studs. File, grind, or
4·2 Y Pipe Rails sand the ends as needed.
C ross section of gantry 2x6.

There are two Y rails; they are made of 1/2 inch ID The six threaded studs can
gas pipe, and are attached to the 2x6 gantry beam be cut to length and filed now.
with threaded studs.

H oles in Y pipes. See Section 1·16.

G antry beam dimensions, front view.

41
the four 7/8 inch holes are offset 5/16 inch from the
4·4 Install Studs in Pipes center lines of the original 1-1/2 inch holes.

This is the same process as was done for the X Drill 1/8 inch pilot holes all of the way through the
axis. Directions are in Section 3·4. beam at the center of each 7/8 inch hole.

These pilot holes will help to prevent the paddle or


Forstner bits from wandering into their neighboring
holes.
The studs can be tied to the pipes at this time.
Drilling the 7/8 inch holes halfway through from
both sides of the 2x6 can also lessen the extent of
the bit drift.
4·5 Gantry Beam

The 32 inch gantry beam is


cut to length and drilled. The gantry’s 2x6 beam can be cut and drilled at
Its dimensions are shown at this time. Before drilling, make sure the 7/16 inch
the bottom of the previous stud holes align with the studs in the pipes.
page and in the cross section
on the right.
4·6 Install Y Rails on 2x6 Beam
The 7/16 inch stud holes are
drilled oversized to allow for This is the same process as was done for the X
offsets and adjustments. axis. Directions are in Section 3·6.
These holes are 5/8 inch
from the back of the gantry.
The back is the side that will
be away from the carriage,
and will face the X stepper. H ole placement in 2x6.

The 1-1/2 inch holes permit wrench access to the Pipe rails on gantry.
nuts on the studs, and can be sized differently.
However, much
larger holes will
weaken the
beam, and
smaller holes T he pipes are 3/16 inch from the back edge of the 2x6.
will hamper
wrench access. The back faces of the pipes are 3/16 inch from the
back edge of the 2x6 as shown above.
A set of 7/8 inch
holes can be The pipes can be positioned by laying the gantry,
drilled with a with the loose pipes, on its back.
paddle or
Forstner bit Place shims between the work surface and the
Four 7/8 inch holes can replace the one
when a hole saw 1-1/2 inch hole. T he centers are offset pipes to hold the pipes into place. Then tighten the
is unavailable. 5/16 inch from the center of the 1-1 /2 nuts in the 1-1/2 inch holes.
inch hole.
The centers of

42
The 1/8 x 3/4 inch
aluminum angle that will
be used in this machine
can be rested on old CDs
to serve as the spacer- U sing 1/8 x 3/4
shim. Right image. aluminum angle and 1/16
A CD will be slightly thin, inch scrap as a spacer.

but it is close enough.

The right image shows the


2x6 beam between the
carriage and the tension
rods.
These clearances are
close, but can be adjusted
Left end plate on X rail.
by moving the Y bearings
on the carriage top and
bottom plates.
Therefore, the positioning
of the pipes on the 2x6
should be close to the 3/16
inch, but there is some
T ight clearance
around 2x6.
room for variation.

The pipes should be parallel to each other and the


beam.
All of the nuts are securely tightened into place at
this time. The washers will likely be pulled into the
beam by the tension of the nuts and studs.
Fine tuning can be done after the machine is
running. However, the pipes should be as close as R ight end plate.
possible to their final position at this time.
The dimensions of the carriage are based on the
pipes’ location. The end plates can be mirrored so the stepper is on
the left end of the gantry.
Install the pipe rails and firmly tighten them into The recesses for the stepper bearing and the
place now. stepper tee nut will have to be drilled from the
other side of the plate for the stepper to be on the
left side of the gantry. Otherwise, the end plates
4·7 End Plates can simply be moved from end to end of the gantry
with their outside becoming their inside. This may
The end plates of the gantry are made of 1x6 wood. be easier than trying to mirror the dimensions, or
This stock has an actual dimension of 3/4 x 5-1/2 working from the back of the templates.
inches.
Both end plates support the X bearings and X The Z carriage’s Y leadnut will also have to
leadnut assemblies. change sides when the stepper is on the left end.
The left end plate holds the Y leadscrew’s bearing This is also a straightforward switch. The sides of
flange. The right end plate supports the Y stepper the carriage can simply be swapped.
and a leadscrew bearing.

43
This deeper bearing recess will permit the use of 3
4·8 Right (Stepper) End Plate inch screws.

This plate is cut to The shoulder of the bearing recess that remains in
length and drilled the 1x6 can be 1/8 inch deep as shown on the
for the stepper, bottom left.
leadscrew bearing,
X bearing bolts, This will leave enough stock to support the thrust
and X leadnut load that the leadscrew will place on the bearing.
bracket bolts.
Front view of end plate
components.
There are two The other recess is drilled on the inside of the plate.
recesses drilled in this end plate. It is for a tee nut that will hold one of the stepper’s
mounting screws.
One is from the outside,
the stepper side; it holds This hole will be blocked by the 2x6 beam, so it
the Y lea ds c r ew cannot use a regular nut the
bearing. way the other three screws
can.
This is the same
bearing support method This tee nut should not have
that is used with the X Stepper end plate with tines. When a tine-less nut is
stepper-end leadscrew
recess for leadscrew bearing.
unavailable, the tines can be
bearings in the 1x4. broken off of a tined nut.
T ee nut in recess. T his
is shown for reference;
The bearing can be deeply recessed in the 1x6 end The remaining stumps should the stepper will be

plate as shown below. be filed smooth so the nut installed later.

can move freely in its recess.

Bearing in deep recess.

The stepper shaft, or the leadscrew to stepper Back view cross section of tee nut. T he front m ounting screw is
coupler, may be long, which will require the not shown for clarity.

stepper to be far away from the bearing.


This movement permits the stepper to be aligned
This length will require the mounting screws to be with the leadscrew. The tee nut could be replaced
longer, and long machine screws can be difficult to with a standard nut and washer, but catching the
find. nut with the threads of the stepper’s mounting
screw is difficult.

44
To allow for this potential offset, a smaller bearing
There are two holes axle is used on the front
drilled in the bottom of each end plate. This
edge of the end permits the bearing to be
plates. These will adjusted so the gantry
receive the threads will ride true.
of the rail bearings’
axles.
Bearing axle holes in the A brad point drill bit
The back hole is for bottom edge of the end plate.
facilitates the drilling of
a 5/16-18 bolt, and the 5/16 inch holes, since
the smaller front hole is for a #10 threaded rod. it maintains position Adjustable bearing on
bottom .
better, and does not
The gantry will be skewed when these holes in the require a center punch
bottom edge of the end plates are not perfectly mark for initial positioning.
aligned.
The end plate can be cut and drilled now. There is
a template for this.

R ight end plate. It supports the stepper.

45
4·9 Left End Plate

This end plate is simpler than the one on the


stepper end since it has no recesses; the leadscrew
hole is a through-hole.
This end plate can be cut and drilled now.

Left gantry 1x6, showing bearing axle


holes in bottom .

There is a template at the end of the manual.


Left end-plate with bearing flange.

Left end plate. It supports the Y bearing block. T he front is toward the right.

46
These screws will have to be removed later when
4·10 Attach End Plates to Gantry glue is applied to the joint, so the screws can be 1-
5/8 inch drywall screws for now.
The end plates can be attached to the gantry beam
at this time. Temporarily attach the left end plate at this time.
It is also possible to attach them after the X
bearings are installed. However, it is easier to keep
track of the components’ orientation when the end
plates are in place.

The right end plate, the one that supports the


stepper, can be permanently glued and screwed to T his is where building is now.
the gantry at this time. O nly the stepper end plate is glued into place.

Use a screw with a nut and


washer to tie a #10 tee nut into
its recess before attaching the 4·11 X Bearings Overview
end plate. Right image.
The X bearing are
The end plate to gantry 608 bearings which
H old tee nut in place.
connection should be firm; use are tied to the end
decking screws rather than the plates with 5/16-18
shorter drywall screws. bolts and #10
The shorter screws do not hold well in the end threaded rod.
grain of the 2x6.
It may be necessary to drill pilot holes into the end The bottom front X bearings on rails.

of the 2x6. Use the existing holes in the end plate bearing on each end
as a template. A 1/8 inch bit works with most plate is attached with
decking screws. a #10 stud that is cut
from threaded rod.
Check the alignment A 5/16 inch nut is
with the match lines at used as a spacer to
1 inch from the back position the bearing
and 4-1/2 inches from on the #10 rod. Right
the front of the end image.
plate. Front bearing attachment.
Make sure the Y pipes
are toward the back of
the gantry and end G antry 2x6 is 1 inch from back. As mentioned, this smaller bearing axle permits the
plate. Pipes are toward back. bearing to be adjusted so the gantry can be made
square with the X rails.
Screw and glue the end plate into place.
The X leadnuts are also used to align the gantry.
However, using the leadnuts to address
The left end plate is not permanently attached at misalignment that is beyond 1/8 inch will load the
this time. It may have to be slightly rotated for its leadnuts and cause drag on the leadscrews.
top X rail bearings to align with the rails. This extra drag slows the axis’ speeds, and
accelerates leadnut wear.
Attach the left end plate with only two screws.

47
The back bottom bearing is attached to the 1x6
with a 5/16-18 x 1-1/2 inch bolt. A 3/8 inch nut is
used as a spacer to position the bearing.

A 5/16 inch nut can be used when the axle bolt is


fully threaded. However, the threads of many 5/16
x 1-1/2 inch bolts do not extend far enough for the
nut to clamp the bearing against the bolt head.
The clamping force between the 3/8 inch nut and
the bearing is supplied by tightening the bolt into
the 1x6.
Metal outrigger with left front bearings.

Both versions work well. The wooden version is


simpler to make since it does not require the
bending of metal to a specific angle.
The metal version can support higher tensioning
loads on the bearings.

4·12 Wooden Outriggers

These four wooden bearing


supports are made of 1x2s
that are cut to 30° at one
Back view of left end plate bearings.

end.

The bearings that ride the top of the pipe rail are Oversized (3/8 inch)
held in place with 5/16-18 x 2-1/2 or 3 inch through-holes are drilled
carriage bolts. See images at the top of the page. for the carriage bolts that
support these outriggers.
The length of the carriage bolt is determined by the
material that is used for the outrigger bearings’ The bearings are tied to the
support. blocks with 5/16-18 x 1 C ross section of wood
Three inch bolts can be used with either wood or inch bolts that are threaded bearing support.
metal outrigger supports, but 2-1/2 inch bolts are into 17/64 inch holes.
too short for the wooden versions. These holes are drilled at an angle in the bottom of
the blocks. See above right image.

The bearings that ride at an angle on the side of the Dimensions are on the next page.
rails are attached with either metal or wood
supports.
The wooden versions are made from 1x2 furring
strips. This stock has an actual dimension of 3/4 x
1-1/2 inches.
The metal versions are made of 1/8 x 1 inch
aluminum flat bar.

48
The bottom 17/64 inch hole is perpendicular to the
30° bottom edge, and it can extend out the front of
the block through the face of the bottom 3/8 inch
hole.

The angles throw-off one’s orientation, and it can


be challenging to align the bottom hole by eye,
though it is 90° from the bottom.
Also, the drill bit will have a tendency to wander
because of the wood’s grain.

Back bottom view of wood bearing


support.
Front view.

D rill toward the bottom of the lower 3/8 inch hole.

4·13 Fabrication of Outrigger Blocks Punch a deep indentation in the bottom of the block
at the 3/16 inch position, and drill a 1/8 inch pilot
The blocks are cut to length from the 1x2 stock. hole with the drill bit aimed at the bottom front of
One 30° cut can saw two angled ends at the same the 3/8 inch hole. See previous image.
time as shown below.
The hole can then be enlarged to 17/64 inch with
the larger bit.

The 5/16-18 x 1 inch bolt, with a


Blocks’ angles can be sawn with one cut. bearing and washer, is tightened into
the 17/64 inch hole.
It can be easier to measure the 3 inch length of one Do not over tighten; the wooden
block and cut the angle. Then measure the 3 inch threads may strip.
length from the angled end of the remaining stock
and square cut its other end. The washer cannot rub against the
bearing’s seal.
The 2-9/16 measure on the shorter side will give an A flattened 5/16 inch lock washer
angle that is close enough to 30° when a miter saw works well here; a standard flat
is unavailable. washer may be too large in diameter.
Bolt in Block
These bottom cut angles do not have to be exactly
30° to work. Use pliers to align the cut ends of a
5/16 or 3/8 inch lock washer. The bent lock washer
does not have to be perfectly flat to work.
The 3/8 inch holes are then drilled in the blocks.
Start with small holes and incrementally step up Glue can be applied to the bolt’s threads, but it is
the drill sizes when using twist drills. The wood better to do this after the alignment is certain. It
splits easily with aggressive drilling. may be necessary to reposition this bearing when
A 3/8 inch Forstner or brad point bit works well the bearings are aligned with the rails.
for these holes, and these bits do not require
incremental steps. These four outrigger bearing supports can be cut,
drilled and assembled now. They are all the same.

49
The holes are drilled after the metal is bent.
4·14 Metal Outriggers Otherwise, the stock will bend at the holes rather
than at the bend line.
The metal outriggers are
similar to the wooden Clamp the short end of the metal in a vise at the
ones, but the stock gives bend line, and use pliers or a hammer to bend the
a leaner appearance, and angle.
they are able to be
tensioned more The image in the left column can be used as a
tightly than the guide for the bend angle. The angle is correct
wooden versions. though the print scaling may be
inexact.
The wooden ones
may split when Aluminum outrigger bearings on left After the angle is bent, the metal can
be drilled. All holes are 3/8 inch.
end.
overloaded. The
metal ones just They are oversized to allow for
bend. construction offsets.

The overloading happens during machine tuning, The bearing is held to the outrigger
not during machine operation. with a 5/16-18 x 1 inch bolt and two
nuts, as shown on the right.

These four aluminum outriggers can


be cut, drilled and assembled now. Bearing on
aluminum.

4·15 Install Carriage Bolts

The carriage bolts are


now attached to the end
O utrigger, perspective plates. Washers are
view. Alum inum outrigger.
placed between the nuts
and the 1x6.
The metal outriggers are made of
1/8 x 1 inch aluminum flat bar that A bearing is
is cut to 2-3/4 inches and bent to sandwiched between
120°, and then drilled as shown. two nuts on the bottom C arriage bolts and top of rail X
bearing on end plate.
bolt.
These were sized so a one foot
section of flat bar would supply The bottom nuts and bolt can be firmly but not
enough stock for all four completely tightened into place at this time.
outriggers. They will be completely tightened after the
horizontal bottom bearings’ axle bolts and studs
are threaded into the wood.
First cut the metal to length. Then
center punch the hole locations and These carriage bolts will help to prevent the wood
scribe the bend line. from splitting as the bottom hardware is installed.
Bend angle. The carriage bolts are then tightened to further

50
clamp the bottom axles into place. A 608 bearing is placed on the stud, and is held in
place with a #10 washer and nut.
The top bolt holds the outrigger in place, and The nut is only finger tightened at this time.
should be tightened to the 1x6 after the outrigger is
on it. The stud cannot extend far past the #10 nut or it
will rub against the 2x4 X axis rail support.
It is easier to install the outrigger on the carriage
bolts when the top bolt is free to move, so it can
align with the outrigger’s top hole. The back bearing is attached similarly, but a 5/16
inch bolt is used since the bearing will not be
The eight carriage bolts and the four top of rail X adjusted.
bearings can be installed now. The carriage bolts
are 2-1/2 inches for the aluminum outriggers or 3 Place a bearing and
inches for the wooden ones. 3/8 inch nut on a 5/16
x 1-1/2 inch bolt, and
thread the bolt into the
4·16 Install Bottom Bearings back bottom hole.
Twist the bolt in
As stated in the X Bearings Overview, the bottom firmly, but do not risk
bearings are held into place with 5/16-18 x 1-1/2 stripping the wood by Bottom back bearing

bolts, and #10 x 1-7/8 inch studs, which are cut over tightening. on left 1x6

from threaded rod.


After the bottom bearings are in place, the bottom
These two studs are cut to length and their end carriage bolts can be tightened securely.
threads are filed clean. This will clamp the threads of the bottom bolts and
The ends of the studs need to be smooth so they studs into the wood.
will easily thread into the wood. Otherwise the
wood will tear and the studs will not hold well. Check the tension of the 5/16 inch bottom bearing
bolts against their bearings; tighten if necessary.
Two #10 nuts are tightened against each
other near the end of each of the studs, The bearings on the #10 studs are left alone for
as shown on the right. now. These bearings will be adjusted when the
gantry is on the X rails.
A nut driver or wrench is used on the
top nut to twist the studs into the front
bottom holes in the 1x6 end plates. Install these four
Between 3/4 and 1 inch of the stud bottom bearings with
should extend from the wood. Stud their bolt and stud
The #10 nuts are then removed. axles at this time.

A 5/16 inch nut is put The nuts that tension


on the stud and the bearings that ride
abutted to the 1x6; the top of the rails can
this serves as a spacer also be tightened into T ighten nuts for top of rail
to align the bearing place now. bearings.

with the pipe rail.


Washers can be
stacked to serve the
same purpose. Bottom front bearing on left 1x6.

51
The gantry should now move smoothly from end to
4·17 Install Gantry on X Axis end of the X axis, but it will still be able to twist
out of square with the X axis.
The gantry is now ready to be put on the X axis
rails.
Support the gantry by placing two 2x4s on edge, or
similar blocking, underneath the bottom Y pipe.
Image below. The blocks are to keep the gantry
from falling to the table. The gantry can drop a
little; the blocking does not have to abut the bottom
rail.

Place the gantry on the X rails.

Place the gantry on the rails with the long legs of


the end plates pointing away from the X stepper
end of the X axis.

Move the gantry to the back of the X axis. There


may be a lot of play between the bearings and rails.
The back bearings are fixed into place, so they are G antry supported on blocks while
used to position the X rails on the 2x4s. end plate is tilted and glued.

Press the X rails against the back bearings. Remove the two screws that hold the left (Y
bearing flange) end plate to the 2x6. Swing the end
plate outward, above image, and spread glue
between the end plate and the 2x6.

The end plate’s bearings can remain resting on the


rail for this.

Swing the end plate back against the 2x6 and align
the 1x6 with the 2x6. Remove the 2x4 blocks if
they hold the gantry too high, and screw the 1x6
Press pipes toward back bearings. and 2x6 together with 2-1/2 or 3 inch decking
screws.
Tighten the X rail studs that are in the 2x4s on the Drill 1/8 inch pilots for the decking screws if
back of each side of the machine. Use a socket needed.
wrench on the nuts that are on the bottom of the
2x4 supports.
The gantry should now travel on the X pipes with
Tighten the Y stepper side’s X rail front stud so the all four top bearings riding the rails.
rail is parallel with the X 2x4 rail support.
The gantry will still rack sideways since the front
Move the gantry to the front of the machine. bottom bearings are not adjusted.
Tighten both X rails’ remaining studs with the rails These bearings will be aligned after the X leadnuts
pressed against the gantry’s bearings. are in place.

52
The X leadnuts will hold the gantry square and Install the outriggers and check that the bearings
make this adjustment easier. ride well on the rails. The final bearing tensioning
will be addressed later.

Install the outriggers, with their bearings, on the


carriage bolts. 4·18 Install Leadnut Carriage Bolts

Abut the bearing The four 5/16 x 2-1/2


against the pipe rail inch carriage bolts,
and align the two in each end plate,
outrigger so it is that support the X
perpendicular to the leadnut bracket, can be
table, (parallel to the installed now.
end plate) by moving
the top nut. Only install one nut
See right image. and washer on each X leadnut bracket carriage bolts
Adjust nut so outrigger is
carriage bolt. Tighten in stepper end plate.
Install and finger
parallel to the end plate.
the carriage bolts into
tighten the top outside place.
nut and washer against
the top of the No other hardware is
outrigger. put on the carriage
bolts at this time.
The bottom carriage
bolt’s nut is used to The right image shows
firmly press the the future layout.
outrigger bearing into
the pipe rails. This N uts positioning outrigger.
will be done for all 4·19 Gantry Review
bearings after the X C arriage bolts supporting
leadnuts are in place. The gantry’s Y rails are
leadnut angle.

aligned and tightened into place.

The bearings do not The gantry is on the X rails, and the X rails are
have to ride exactly on tightened into place.
their centers on the
rails, but their edges The X bearings are aligned so they ride the rails,
cannot dig into the but they have not all been permanently tightened.
rails. The outriggers are in place and are aligned, but are
Use washers as not permanently tightened.
spacers where needed.
Potential problem areas.

The bottom front bearings are attached, but have


not been set against the rail.
The back outriggers’ bearings can be initially
tensioned against the X rails at this time.
The X leadscrew assembly can now be installed;
The front outriggers will be set later when the front this is addressed next.
bottom bearings are aligned.

53
T his is where construction is at this time.

4·20 Note for Solid Sheet Table Bed Z rails are in place.

This note can be ignored for tables that use slats This is not a serious problem, but a solid table bed
for the table bed. will alter the construction sequence.

The Z carriage construction is sequenced in a way With a solid table bed, the X leadscrew assembly
that requires the Z rails to be lifted up through the can be installed and checked for fit, but the X
missing table bed slat. leadnuts will have to be loosened for the gantry to
be lifted when the Z rails are installed.
A solid table bed will not permit this.
Therefore, there is no need to final-adjust the X
With a solid table bed, the gantry will need to be leadscrew assembly, as described in the following
lifted for the Z rails to be installed. pages, until the carriage is completely assembled
Or the Z stepper will have to be installed after the and installed.

54
Half inch leadscrews
5·1 X Leadscrew Components Overview will require 1-1/8 inch
bearings.
The ends of the two X leadscrews are supported
by bearings. The 7/8 inch bearing
The back bearings are recessed in the 1x4 that will use the 5/8 inch
spans the back of the machine. through-hole in the
The front bearings are supported by bearing bearing flange, and
flanges that are tied to the front 1x4 the 1-1/8 inch bearing
legs or the 1x4 horizontal board. will use the 7/8 inch
R ight leadscrew in bearing
through-hole. See flange.
dimensioned drawing.

The recesses should


leave around 1/8 inch
of stock in the flange
to support the
bearing’s thrust load.
X leadscrew on Y stepper side of machine. Right image.
R ight bearing flange.
The X leadnuts are attached to aluminum angles The bearings will T he left flange is mirrored.

that are tied to the gantry end plates with 5/16 x protrude from the face
2-1/2 inch carriage of the flanges. The shallow recess is sufficient to
bolts. hold the bearings into place.

The leadnut and its The larger recess is drilled first. It is difficult to
aluminum bracket position the larger recess with the through-hole
have to be on the already drilled.
leadscrew before
the leadscrew can There are two attachment holes in the flanges. One
be installed. is oversized to permit rough adjustment, and the
other is smaller for the final positioning.
The bearing
flanges also need The flanges are designed so they can be attached
to be fabricated
Leadnut assem bly. with 1-5/8 inch drywall screws without the ends of
and installed the screws protruding into space where they would
before leadscrew installation. have to be ground down.

5·2 X Bearing Flanges

The X bearing flanges are made of 1/4 or 3/8 inch


thick kitchen cutting board plastic.

There is more about working with this product in


Section 1·6, and Section 1 ·17.
X bearing flange dimensions.
The bearing flanges are sized for either 7/8 or 1- O ne is mirrored. Leave 1/8 inch shoulder in
1/8 inch OD bearings. recess.

55
The two flanges can be cut and drilled at this time; The aluminum angles have to be
remember that one is mirrored. There are templates drilled to match the shape of the
at the end of the manual. leadnuts, and to align with the
carriage bolts.

Note that the bearing


flange will partially cover The machine permits a variety of
one of the screws that ties leadscrew choices, and it is not
the 1x4 to the 2x4. Right possible to use the same dimensions
image. for all options. Therefore, the
dimensions will have to be
This screw must be determined individually.
countersunk so it does not X leadnut
interfere with the bearing This is a multi-step process. bracket.
flange. • The leadnut is drilled so it can be
C ountersink screw.
screwed to the aluminum bracket.
The two flanges can • The aluminum bracket is cut to length, and
each be attached to the drilled to match the leadnut.
front of the X axis with • The leadnut, with the aluminum bracket, is
a 1-5/8 inch drywall threaded onto the leadscrew.
screw and a #10 • The leadscrew is installed, and the aluminum
washer. Tighten the bracket is matched to the carriage bolts.
screw enough to hold • The bracket is removed and drilled at the match
the flange in position. marks.
• The leadnut bracket components are assembled
Attach the two bearing and aligned.
flanges, with one screw
Bearing flange attached with
one screw.
each, at this time.
5·4 Leadnut Options
5·3 X Leadnuts Overview A variety of leadnut
options are possible.
The leadnuts are
attached to Hardware store tee nuts
sections of 1/8 x can be used as leadnuts.
3/4 inch Tined (pronged) or round
aluminum angle. nuts will work.
These angle
brackets are held
to the gantry end
plates with 5/16 Front view of
Back view of

x 2-1/2 inch tee nut


tee nut
attached to
carriage bolts. attached to
angle.
angle.

T ined tee nut


on angle.
End view of leadnut and bracket Washers on the screws hold the tee nuts in place.
tied to the end of the gantry.
The tee nuts do not have to be drilled.

56
Regular hex nuts, both hardware store and Acme,
can also be attached to the brackets with machine 5·6 Holes in Leadnut
screws and washers; however, it can be difficult to
properly align the parts during final tuning. There is not a lot of room for the screw holes in the
flanges of the leadnuts. Therefore, these holes
Larger flanged anti-backlash nuts are drilled for the should be drilled before the matching holes are
attachment screws. drilled in the aluminum angle bracket.
The leadnuts may have to be trimmed to clear the
X 2x4 rail supports. Image below.

T rimmed and drilled


leadnut. T rimmed leadnut.

It will be easier to tune the machine when the


machine screws are fixed into the leadnut, rather
T rimmed leadnut on angle.
than being loose enough to freewheel.

A 9/64 inch hole


will permit a #8 x
5·5 Hole Alignment 3/4 inch screw to
be threaded into it.
The screw holes in the aluminum bracket and The plastic is soft
leadnut should be in line with the center of the enough to not
leadscrew and leadnut. Images below. require tapping
beforehand. Machine screws threaded into
leadnut.

The machine screws


do not have to be extremely tight in the leadnut,
just tight enough to not freewheel when the nuts are
attached.

H oles in leadnut This is mentioned because there is a risk of


are in line with
Screw holes in line with splitting the plastic when trying to force-fit a
the center.
center of leadscrew. machine screw into a too small hole.

This layout will help to pull the leadnut flush The #8 x 3/4 inch screws are threaded into the
against the aluminum without the leadnut skewing. holes after the holes’ locations are marked on the
Misaligned leadnuts cause considerable drag on the aluminum brackets. Plastic leadnuts can be
leadscrew. trimmed with a hack saw.

The screw attachment holes in the aluminum can Before drilling or trimming, make sure that
be larger than the screws. This will permit minor matching holes can be drilled in the aluminum
adjustments. brackets.

These holes can be 3/16 inch; #8 machine screws Read the next section before drilling the leadnuts.
work well with the flanged leadnuts.

57
This notch should allow clearance around the
5·7 Bracket Trim Note leadscrew, and it should be small enough to leave
adequate stock for leadnut attachment.
The aluminum bracket will have to be
removed from the leadscrew during the The diameter of the
construction process. leadscrew plus 1/8 inch is
usually a good diameter for
The bottom corner of the bracket will the bottom notch.
block easy removal with larger
leadscrews, and trimming the bottom The hole for the notch is
corner of the bracket will give more drilled first, and then the
clearance. remaining stock is cut away Sequence for trimming
with a hack saw. notches.
A trimmed corner will require the Right image.
leadnut’s mounting screws to be offset
from vertical. Notches rather than holes are used so the
components can more easily be disassembled
The bottom nut and during the construction process. Closed holes
washer on the leadnut would require the leadscrew to be removed between
have to clear the other steps.
leg of the angle.

Before trimming the


The hole for the
aluminum’s corner,
leadnut’s notch
make sure there is Leadnut on trimmed bracket. should be centered 3/4
room for the washer
inch from the bottom
a nd nut in the
of the aluminum
remaining space.
angle. Right image.

This will leave 1/8


The leadnuts can be drilled and trimmed at this inch clearance above
time. the machine’s legs.
The legs are 7/8 inch
5·8 Aluminum Brackets from the leadscrew’s
center as shown on
Two aluminum angle brackets the next page.
are required; one is mirrored.
Right image. The leadnut hole is
1/2 inch from the
The locations of the brackets’ corner edge of the
Angle bracket notched
for ½ inch leadnut.
top notches are not identical aluminum angle, as
due to the accumulation of shown above.
offsets on each side of the
machine. This will leave 1/8 inch clearance between the X
2x4 rail support and this bracket, as shown on the
The two brackets are 4-1/2 Leadnut angle
next page.
brackets are
inches long. A notch is drilled mirrored.
and cut near the bottom of one
leg for the leadnut and
leadscrew.

58
5·9 Attach Leadnuts to Brackets

The leadnuts can be attached to the


brackets at this time.

The screws are #8 x 3/4 inch. They


should be tightened enough to hold
position, but the leadnuts will have Leadnut on
to be removed later. bracket.

T he leadscrew’s center is 5/8 inch 5·10 Install Leadscrew


from the rail support and 7/8 inch
above the leg.
This process is done on one side of the machine at
a time.

Make sure that the leadscrew support bearings fit


over the leadscrews. Some leadscrews are snug in
the bearings, and the ends of the leadscrews have to
be filed to fit.

Check for fit, and file the ends as needed.


Remove the bearings after checking for fit.

End view of gantry showing


T rimmed bracket around
Thread the leadnut and its bracket onto the
leadscrew. T his is shown
the X bearings and trimmed
for reference. T he leadnut leadscrew. Start the leadscrew from the
leadnut angle.
would be attached. Arrows aluminum side of the leadnut assembly. Position
the leadnut around 6 inches from the
indicate 1/8" clearance.

leadscrew end.
The angle brackets can be cut to length now.

The bottom notch and the two screw holes can also
be drilled in the aluminum brackets at this time.
They have to match the existing holes in the X leadnut with angle threaded onto back end of X leadscrew.

leadnuts.
Insert the leadscrew into the front bearing hole in
the machine, image below, and then move it back
The bottom of the brackets can be trimmed if the
through the back bearing hole.
leadnut placement permits.

Remember that the aluminum brackets mirror each


other.

Installing X leadscrew.

59
Place the bearings on each end of the leadscrew. The leadnut should be removed from the bracket
before the bracket is cut and drilled.

The bracket’s dimensions will be similar to the


ones shown here, but there will be some variation.

The oversized 3/8 inch diameter notches allow for


adjustments.

Drill and notch this bracket at this time.


The other side’s bracket will be notched later.
Leadscrew in front bearing. Leadscrew in back bearing.

Adjust the front bearing flange so the leadscrew


appears to be parallel with the X rail. This can be 5·12 Align Leadscrew
done by eye. Tighten the bearing flange’s drywall
screw so the leadscrew will not drop. After the aluminum bracket is drilled and notched,
firmly reattach it to the leadnut.

5·11 Mark and Drill Bracket

Move the gantry to the back of the machine and


align the leadnut bracket with the two carriage
bolts.

Mark the position of the carriage bolts on the


aluminum bracket.

End view of X leadnut assem bly.


X bearings are not shown for clarity.

A nut with washer is placed on each side of the


bracket, on each carriage bolt. Above image.
Align the bracket with the carriage bolts, and
Align bracket with carriage bolts and D rill and notch the clamp it into place with the nuts on the carriage
mark the positions on the bracket. aluminum bracket. bolts.
D im ensions vary.
The nuts are moved to position the bracket so the
Remove the aluminum bracket from the leadnut. leadnut does not bind on the leadscrew.
The leadnut can be left on the leadscrew on the
Turn the leadscrew by hand to check for excess
machine, or the leadnut and bracket can be
tension as the bracket is tightened into place.
removed from the leadscrew. Do whatever is
Work incrementally so misalignment can be
easier.
addressed as soon as increased drag is noticed.
This is not the final alignment, but it needs to be

60
fairly close. The leadnut will be used next to This is detached so the other leadscrew can be
position the front bearing flange. adjusted without skewing the gantry. This bracket
will be reattached after the belt is installed.

Loosen the drywall screw that supports the front This leadnut bracket and leadscrew alignment
bearing flange. The leadscrew may sag but it will process is repeated for the other side of the
be supported by the leadnut. machine.

Turn the leadscrew to move the gantry to the front The leadnut bracket on the second side of the
of the X axis. machine does not have to be disconnected from the
The leadnut is being used to transfer the carriage bolts after the leadscrew’s front bearing is
leadscrew’s back alignment to the front of the aligned.
machine.
Both leadnuts and their brackets should be
assembled and aligned before continuing. The first
leadnut bracket is left loose.

5·13 Install Pulleys and Clamps

Install the pulley on


the back of the
leadscrew.

Flats should be filed


in the leadscrews to
G antry at front of X axis. match the pulleys’
setscrews.

The leadscrew is not yet clamped into its bearings, W it h s maller


but it can still be used to move the axis by hand or diameter leadscrews, Pulley on X leadscrew.

with a small power drill. it is better for the


toothed section of the pulley to be close to the
When using a drill, do not turn the leadscrew too bearing, with the pulley’s hub toward the end of the
rapidly or it will whip since it is not fully leadscrew.
supported. This will help to keep the leadscrew from flexing as
the belt is tensioned.
With the gantry at the front of the machine, tighten
the front bearing flange into place with the one This flexing is not a problem with 1/2 inch
drywall screw and washer. leadscrews, and the pulley can be oriented with its
hub against the bearing.
The bearing flange’s second screw will be installed
after both leadscrew assemblies are permanently Use a washer, if needed, between the pulley and the
aligned. bearing to prevent the pulley from rubbing on the
bearing.
After the bearing flange is in place, the aluminum A flattened lock washer will work when a washer
leadnut bracket is loosened from its carriage bolts. with the proper outside diameter is unavailable.
It is left hanging on the leadnut.

61
The end of the leadscrew should be nearly flush Collar clamps are also available for regular
with the end of the pulley. This will leave the threaded rods, but are more costly than hex nuts.
remainder of the leadscrew on the axis’ front.
The nuts or clamps are finger
tightened against the
A knob can be placed on the front end of the leadscrew support
leadscrew if there is room. This will make it easier bearing.
to move the axis by hand.
There only has to be
enough tension to prevent
The leadscrew is tensioned with nuts or collar the leadscrew from
clamps that are threaded onto the leadscrew’s front moving from end to end in C ollar clamp tensioning the
ends. the bearings. leadscrew.

Overloading the bearings


Two nuts are tightened against will shorten their life.
each other so they will not
work loose. These can be The tension can be increased until the bearings
used with threaded rod become noisy or the drag increases.
or standard Acme rod. Then the nut or clamp is slightly loosened.
Right image.
Again, this tension can usually be done with
Regular hex nuts for fingers; a wrench is unnecessary except when
precision Acme threads are locking the two nuts against each other.
difficult to find, so collar A pair of nuts abutting
the bearing.
clamps are used instead. The X leadscrews’ pulleys and tensioning nuts or
clamps can be installed and adjusted now.

62
Note that these two couplers are not the same
5·14 X Belt Overview named size, though their inside diameter will fit the
outside of a 608 skate bearing.
The two X leadscrews are driven by one stepper
and a long belt. The bearings fit easily in the yellow plumbing
fitting, and do not have to be pressed into place;
An idler routes the belt around the stepper’s pulley. they simply slide in.
The belt is tensioned by rotating the stepper in its The bearings fit tightly in the grey electrical fitting
mounting holes. and have to the pressed into position. Carlon brand
has fit well, other brands have been too tight and
have split in cold weather.

X belt installed.
The images below show the options.

The bearings’ loose fit in the plumbing fitting


5·15 Idler requires the bearings to be spaced with nuts and
washers as shown below.
The idler is made of 608 skate bearings and a
plumbing or electrical conduit coupler.
A 5/16-18 x 2-1/2 or 3 inch carriage bolt is the
idler’s axle.

The idler is fixed in place to the back 1x4; the


belt’s tension is adjusted by rotating the stepper.

A plastic coupler is used with the bearings because


the larger diameter reduces the wear on the belt, U ncut C PVC coupler with bearings spaced.
and the longer coupler is more forgiving of belt The tight fit of the bearings in the electrical fitting
wander. eliminates the need to space the bearings with nuts
or washers. The coupler holds the bearings in
A set of stacked larger bearings would serve the place. Image below.
same purpose, but the cost would be higher, and
this coupler system uses skate bearings which are
used elsewhere on the machine.

Two types of couplers work well.

One is a 1/2 inch electrical


PVC conduit coupler; these
are grey and are found in
Electrical coupler cross section.
the electrical section of Plastic electrical or
home centers. plum bing coupler.

It may be necessary to shorten the idler so it clears


The other type is a 3/4 inch plumbing CPVC the face of the stepper.
coupler. These are yellow-beige, not white, and are This was not necessary with any of the prototypes,
found in the plumbing section. but the fit was close enough that it appeared that it

63
might be necessary when measures were not tightened to the 1x4 with the nut and washer.
exactly as shown in these plans.

The plastic coupler for The outside end of the carriage bolt will require
the idler can be two nuts tightened against each other, or a lock-
trimmed to fit. Right nut, to hold the idler. A single nut will loosen and
image. allow the idler to wander.

The plumbing fitting will The tension of the nuts against the bearings is only
require both ends to be finger tight at most. There can be a fraction of end
trimmed so the bearings abut to end play for the idler on the carriage bolt. The
the coupler’s center stop. idler should turn easily.
Image below.
T op view of stepper The idler can be made and installed now.
with short idler.

5·16 Install Stepper

The stepper is tied to the 1x4 with four #10 x 2-1/2


inch screws.
Nuts with washers sandwich both the stepper and
the 1x4. Image below.

C ross section of trimmed C PVC coupler.

Only one end has to be trimmed with the electrical


coupler since the bearings will hold position, and
do not need to abut the center stop.

The bearings are pressed into the electrical coupler X stepper cross section.
by tightening a nut onto the carriage bolt axle as T wo screws and idler not shown for clarity.
shown below.
The pulley is put on the stepper; it is not tightened
into place.

All four screws with nuts and washers are attached


to the stepper; the nuts that abut the stepper are left
loose.

The second set of nuts and washers that will be on


the stepper side of the 1x4 are threaded onto the
screws.
U se 5/16 axle bolt as a clamp to pull bearings into
coupler.
The screws are inserted into the 1x4, and nuts with
After the bearings are inside the coupler, the washers are loosely attached to the ends of the
coupler is removed, and the carriage bolt is screws.

64
All of the nuts will be tightened after the belt is on around the stepper’s pulley with its teeth in the
the pulleys. pulley’s teeth.

Loosely install the stepper with its pulley now.

5·17 Move Gantry

The gantry is moved to the back of the X axis, but Belt path around pulley and
the one leadnut bracket is still not attached to the Stepper with belt.
idler. Stepper n ot shown for

gantry.
clarity.

Position the loose The belt is then wrapped around the idler and the
X leadnut bracket leadscrew pulleys as shown, above right.
in its carriage bolts, The leadscrew pulleys may turn as the belt is
but leave the nuts wrapped around the pulleys. This may move the
on the carriage gantry out of alignment.
bolts loose.

Turn both
leadscrews at the
same time to move Installed belt.

the gantry to the G antry at back of X axis.

back of the X axis. The leadscrews are turned individually to align the
gantry with the X axis, and to align the loose X
Only one leadscrew is moving the gantry; the leadnut bracket with its carriage bolts.
leadscrew with the loose bracket is turned to move
the leadnut and bracket. The idler can be
removed when the
Align the gantry’s back bearings with the ends of belt is too tight to
the X pipes. permit the
The gantry should be square with the X axis. leadscrews to turn
individually.
Turn the loose leadnut’s leadscrew so its bracket is
in place around its carriage bolts, but leave the Once the belt is
carriage bolts’ nuts loose. routed correctly
and the gantry is
square, the loose
leadnut bracket is
5·18 Install Belt
tightened on the Align X bracket with carriage bolts.
carriage bolts.
The belt is slid
between the
stepper’s pulley and
the 1x4 from the Install the belt, align the gantry and loose X
left side, leadnut bracket, and tighten the leadnut bracket at
underneath the this time.
idler. Right image.
Slide belt between pulley and 1x4

The belt is wrapped


from left side of stepper.

65
This was not necessary with any of the
5·19 Tighten Stepper and Belt prototypes, but offsets do accumulate, and this
would be the easiest fix.
The stepper’s position is now set.

The #10 nuts on the stepper’s screws are adjusted The stepper and belt can be tightened into place at
to align the stepper’s pulley with the leadscrew this time.
pulleys.
The four nuts that sandwich the stepper are
tightened permanently. 5·20 Square Gantry

The nuts that sandwich the 1x4 are abutted to the Note
1x4 to hold the stepper’s pulley in line with the belt Machines that use a solid surface for the table bed
and leadscrew pulleys. in place of the 1x4 slats will have to partially
remove the gantry to assemble the Z carriage. In
The stepper pulley’s setscrews are tightened. this case, the squaring of the gantry and the bearing
tensioning should be done after the carriage is
The stepper, with its mounting screws, is rotated to completed.
tighten the belt. The screws are slid in the slots in Skip ahead to the Z Carriage in Section 6·1.
the 1x4.

For machines with the 1x4 table bed.

Check the gantry for square. It should be correct at


R otate stepper to tighten belt. Belt cannot slap idler. this time, but offsets happen. Minor alignment can
be made by moving the leadnut brackets on their
The belt should be tight enough to not slap into carriage bolts.
itself as it passes over the top of the idler.
Adjustments can also be made by moving the entire
The belt does not have to be extremely tight; too leadscrew by readjusting its collar clamp and
much tension will cause premature wear. pulley. Be sure that the pulley’s set screws still
press against flats in the leadscrew.
Check that the belt is in line with all three pulleys.
Adjust the stepper or its pulley as necessary. The pulleys’ setscrews, and X leadnut bracket nuts
are securely tightened once the gantry is square.

Should there not be enough travel in the slots to


tighten the belt, the idler can be moved. 5·21 Adjust Gantry Front Bearings

Enlarge the idler’s The X bearings on the


hole in the 1x4. bottom front of the
gantry can be pressed
Use larger washers against the rails after
with the carriage the gantry is square and
bolt so the carriage the X leadnuts are
bolt’s head and nut tightened into place.
will not pull into
the enlarged hole. Press bearing against rail
and tighten the #10 nut.
Enlarge idler’s axle hole and
move idler away from stepper.

66
Check that the front outrigger bearings are not Or the final tuning can be done for all axes after
putting any pressure on the X pipe rail. the machine is entirely completed.

With fingers, pinch the bottom bearing against the There is no marked advantage to doing it all at
pipe rail. Tighten the #10 nut. once, or as each axis is completed.

Do this for both bottom front X bearings now.

5·22 Bearing Tensioning

Tighten the bottom outrigger nuts to pull the


bearings into the rails.

There is a fairly large range of acceptable tension


for the bearings.

Generally, the tension is correct when it is difficult


to keep the bearings from turning by pinching them
with fingers as the axis is moved.
Back view of machine at this point of construction.
Over time, tighter bearings will press flat tracks
into the pipe rails; this is not a problem. This
indicates that the bearings are not permitting
excessive chatter.

The tracks in the pipe rails can be filed or sanded


smooth should ridges develop in them.

Tighten the outrigger bearings against the X rails


at this time.

5·23 Review
Machine ready for carriage installation.
The X leadscrews, pulleys, belt and X stepper are
now installed.
Construction on the carriage can now begin.
The gantry is now square and its X bearings are
tight on the X rails.

The gantry moves on the rails by turning the


stepper.

The X stepper can be powered and the axis can be


fine tuned at this time.
The Software Settings are addressed in Section 9.

67
These trucks consist of skate bearings that are
6·1 Z Carriage Overview bolted to aluminum angle.

The Z carriage travels from Fabrication is


end to end on the gantry. It straightforward.
also supports the spindle The aluminum angle
assembly, which moves up is cut to length and T op Y bearing truck on carriage.
and down. drilled.

The body of the Z carriage The bearings are attached to the aluminum angle
is made of 1x4 wood. with 5/16-18 x 1 inch bolts.
The axle bolts’ heads are on the inside of the angle.
The bearing trucks are skate A nut clamps the bolt to the angle, and a second
bearings bolted to 1/8 x 3/4 nut clamps the bearing in place.
inch aluminum angle.
The bolt heads are filed so they
The Z axis’ pipe rails are will ride flat on the Z top and
1/2 inch gas pipe, like all bottom plates.
other rails on this machine. Z carriage with router. This material can be removed
with a file or grinder. A belt
sander also makes short work
of this, but the metal will
become very hot as it is being
File bolt heads.

sanded.

The 5/16 inch holes are offset in the aluminum


angle so the bolt heads will not interfere
with each other.

The two holes


that are on the
corner of the
1x4 components of carriage.
“D ” determines

aluminum
carriage height. C ompleted Y truck showing
countersunk holes.
The height of the Z carriage must match the angle, and are
distance between the Y bearing trucks on the 1-3/4 inches from each end, are countersunk for
gantry’s rails. Therefore, the Y trucks are made screw heads and nuts that attach the trucks to the
first. top and bottom plates. Image above and below.

The nuts would


scrape the pipe rail
6·2 Y Bearing Trucks
without being in the
recesses.
The Y trucks are the bearing
assemblies that ride on the gantry
A countersink bit or
rails.
a 3/8 inch drill bit
They are attached to the top and
can be used for
bottom plates of the carriage. Right
these recesses.
image.
Y trucks on N ut in recess in angle.
carriage.

68
Place the bearing trucks on the gantry rails and
These depressions cannot be too deep or the nuts measure the distance as shown.
and screw heads will pull
through the aluminum.
6·4 Y Leadnut
The bearings do not have to be
exactly centered on the rails. The dimensions of the Y leadnut determine the
However, their edges should not location of the connecting holes in the side plate.
dig into the rails. Bearing alignment.
Left is okay, right is Therefore, the Y leadnut is cut and drilled at this
not. time.
Use washers as spacers where
needed. This will only be necessary with different
sized components, or when the holes in the
aluminum are not drilled as shown.

Y leadnut on side plate. C arriage with leadscrew.

As with the other axes, the leadnut can be a tee nut


or commercially made leadnut. The options are the
Y bearing truck dimensions.
same as described for the X axis
leadnut in Section 5·4.
These trucks can be cut, drilled, and assembled at
this time. The two units are identical. The leadnut is attached to the
side of the carriage with two
machine screws.
6·3 Measure Distance Between Trucks H oles in flange.
Slightly undersized holes are
The trucks are placed on the gantry drilled in the leadnut’s
rails, and an outside to outside flange so the connecting
measure is taken as shown. screws will not freewheel.
This makes adjustments
This measure will determine the much easier.
dimensions of the sides of the Screws in flange.

carriage. Holes of 9/64 inch


diameter work well with #8
The prototypes’ measures were machine screws. The screws
around 9-1/4 inches. This will vary will cut their own threads as
between machines because of the they are tightened into the
differences in the wood, the plastic leadnut.
hardware, and the accumulation of Measure from
construction offsets. truck to truck. The center of the leadnut will
be 1/2 inch from the back
This measure needs to be accurate, but there is edge of the side plate. A
some room for minor adjustments. A measure to large leadnut will need to Leadnut aligned with
the nearest sixteenth inch will work. have part of the flange holes in side plate.

69
trimmed so it does not overhang the back of the screws.
side plate and drag against the gantry beam. These holes are positioned to
match the screws in the leadnut,
Drill the holes in the leadnut’s flange and trim the and are drilled oversized for
flange at this time. The screws can be installed adjustment.
later when the leadnut is attached during the
leadscrew installation. The holes can also be notches to
allow more adjustment movement
Leadnut screw
as is shown in the image on the holes are aligned.
6·5 Side Plates right. The holes can be quite large.

The sides of the carriage are 1x4s that are cut to Washers can be used with the
length and drilled. attaching screws to prevent the
This wood’s actual dimensions are 3/4 x 3-1/2 nuts from pulling into the
inches. oversized holes.

The sides’ height will be the dimension (~9-1/4 Holes of 5/16 inch usually give
N otched holes.
inches) that was previously measured with the enough adjustment clearance.
trucks on the gantry rails.

Holes for the Z bearing trucks, their tension rods,


the Y leadnut, and the screw attachment to the back
plates are drilled in the side plates.

Side plates supporting Z Side plates of Z carriage.


bearings and tension rods.

The leadnut is attached to the side plate in a


manner that is similar to the way the X leadnuts
were attached to the aluminum brackets.

A notch is cut in the


back edge of both of the
side plates.

Holes are also drilled


through the left plate for
the leadnut’s attachment D imensions of left side plate. T here is a template.
Sequence for notch.

70
The notch in the left plate has to be small enough
so the leadnut’s flange will abut the side plate 6·6 Back Plates
without pulling through.
The back consists of
The notch in the right side plate can be large, two sections of 1x4
since its only purpose is to give the leadscrew wood that are cut to 4-
clearance. 3/4 inches long.

They are attached to the


sides with glue and 1-
5/8 inch drywall screws
or similar.
The holes in the side
plates can be used as Back of carriage.

templates for pilot holes


in the back plates; a 1/8 inch bit works with many
drywall screws.

The back plates are installed with their edges flush


with the top, bottom and back of the side plates.

D imensions of back 1x4s.

These two pieces can be cut and attached to the


sides now.

D imensions of right side plate. T emplate at end of 6·7 Top Plate


manual.

The top plate is a section of


1x4 wood that is cut to 6-1/4
The notches for the leadnut and leadscrew are
inches and drilled.
positioned midway on each side plate. The center
position will be half of the side’s total height.
It is notched for the
stepper’s shaft, and drilled
The two side plates can be cut and drilled at this
for the Y bearings and
time. The leadnut will be attached later when the
tension rods.
leadscrew is installed.
It also is drilled through its
width for two decking
screws, which prevent the Stepper on carriage.

wood from splitting under

71
the load of the tension rods. Image below.

C ross section of top plate showing grain orientation and


T op front of top plate.
2-1/2 or 3 inch decking screw.

Washers are used with these screws to help prevent


the tension rods from tearing out of the top and
bottom plates.
The tension The Z stepper is held to T op plate on carriage.
rods’ holes are the top plate with three
near the edge #8 machine screws.
of the plates,
and the wood The nuts for the front
alone may not screws are accessible from
support the W ashers prevent tension rod tear-out.
the face of the carriage.
load.
The back nut is partially
covered by the back plate
and has to be recessed into
the top plate.

A 3/8 inch diameter recess


Back of top plate showing pilot holes for
is drilled 1/4 inch deep in
decking screws in edge. the bottom of the top plate
for this nut. Right image. C ross section of nut
recess.

The grain of the top and bottom plates should be The #8 nut is
aligned so the center of the tree from which they inserted into the
were cut would be toward the 2x6 gantry. recess before the
plate is attached to
The arcs in the previous cross section drawing the back and sides.
show the grain’s orientation for the top plate. A tee nut will work
The tension rods will pull these plates toward the here, but this size
gantry, and this positioning will be less likely to may be difficult to Bottom of top plate.

split. The long screws add additional support. find.

These screws are 2-5/8 to 3 inch decking screws as A screw with a nut and washer can be used to hold
are used elsewhere on this machine. the nut into the recess during assembly.

H old nut in place.

Back view of top plate.

72
shear off the back edge.
The 1-1/2 inch notch for the stepper’s shaft is The notch does not have to be clean to serve its
drilled with the same hole saw that was used to purpose.
drill the holes in the gantry.

This notch is large to permit easy access to the The top plate is glued and screwed to the back and
leadscrew coupler. The notch can be a different side plates with 1-5/8 inch drywall screws.
size or shape.
Like the holes in the 2x6, it can be made with a set The match marks between these pieces are shown
of smaller holes. in the dimensioned drawings.

It is also possible Make sure the sides are square with the back and
to cut slots and top before gluing.
shear away the
excess stock as The top plate can be cut, drilled, and installed at
shown on the this time. Also install the two long decking screws
right. in the back edge. Remember to install the nut in the
Make two cuts; Stepper notch. C ut and sheared. recess before gluing. There is a template for this at
then use a chisel to the end of the manual.

T op plate dimensions.

6·8 Bottom Plate

The bottom plate is similar to the top plate.


It holds the Z bearing flange rather than the
stepper.

The holes for the bearing flange are oversized to


Bottom plate.
allow for adjustments.
The bottom plate can be cut, drilled, and installed
at this time.
The long decking screws can also be driven into the
back edge of the bottom plate now. Dimensions are
on the next page, and there is a template at the
back of the manual. Back of bottom plate showing
pilot holes in edge.
Bottom plate on carriage.

73
D imensions of bottom plate.

6·9 Install Bottom Truck


The bearings are positioned with the outermost pair
The bottom truck is installed next. toward the back edge of the bottom plate. This will
give clearance for the tension rods.
It is held in place with
two #8-32 x 1-1/2 inch
screws. The screws’
heads are in the
countersunk depressions
in the aluminum. Nuts
and washers tighten the
unit into place.

The two 1/4 inch holes in Y trucks in carriage.


Screws and nuts attaching truck.
the bottom plate allow the
attachment screws to move so the truck can be
aligned on the rail.

Attachment screws in trucks.

The bottom truck assembly can be attached to the


bottom plate now. The nuts should not be tightened
at this time.

C ross section of bottom truck attachment.

74
The carriage is lifted
6·10 Install Top Truck onto the gantry so
the bottom truck
The carriage’s layout makes it impossible to install rides the bottom rail.
the top truck the same way the bottom truck is
installed. The top rail blocks the screws from being The top truck is then
retracted enough to install the unit. placed on the top rail
and slid into place
underneath the top
plate.

Press bottom bearings up onto


gantry rail.

N uts recessed into truck’s alum inum .

This is addressed by inserting the screws through


the top plate with the nuts abutting the aluminum Slide truck under top plate.

angle.
A second nut with a washer, which is near the head The #8 x 1-3/4 screws, with a nut and washer near
of the screw, is used to tension the truck into place. the head of each screw, are inserted into the top
plate’s 1/4 inch holes.

Nuts are rested


on the top of the
rail in line with
the holes in the
aluminum angle.
The screws are
then threaded Slide top truck into place and install

into the nuts. nuts.

Screws and nuts for top truck.

The screws should only be threaded far enough into


the nuts to hold well. The screws cannot scrape the
rails.

The nuts near the heads of the screws are then


tightened to secure the truck.

There may be some play between the bearings and


the rails. This is not a problem. The tension rods
can remove a surprising amount of looseness.

When the bearings are too loose to be adjusted with


the tension rods, shims can be placed between the
bearing trucks and the top and bottom plates.
C ross section of top truck attachment.

75
Spacers cut from beverage cans or CDs will work. Nuts with washers are tightened against the top and
The spacing should be the same at both the top and bottom plates to pull the bearings against the rails.
the bottom so the leadscrew will align with the
notches in the carriage’s sides. The bearings should be tight enough against the
rails that it is difficult to prevent them from turning
when they are held between fingers as the carriage
The carriage is pressed as is moved
close as possible to the
gantry.

The trucks’ bearing bolts


will probably prevent the
back of the carriage from
rubbing against the face
of the gantry’s 2x6.

Adjust the carriage so it is


close to, but clears, the
gantry.

The machine screws and Bearing axles touch


back of carriage.
their nuts, which tie the
trucks to the top and
bottom plates, can be tightened enough to hold the
trucks into place at this time. T ension rods installed.

This hardware will be permanently tightened later.

6·11 Install Y Tension Rods

The Y tension rods are #10


threaded rods that are cut
to length. The two rods N uts and washers on top of tension rods.

span the back of the


carriage and pull the
bearings into the rails.

Their length is the distance


from the outside of the top
to the bottom plus 1 inch.

The prototype’s were 10-


3/4 plus 1 inch. A pair of
stock length 12 inch rods
were used. The extra
material projects from the N uts and washers on tension rods.

top, and does not get in the way.

76
The bearings will press flats into the rails over The flange is held into place with # 8 x 1-1/2 inch
time. This is not a problem; any ridges that develop screws which are threaded into the plastic.
in the flats can be filed smooth.
The threads do not
The flats will form quickly, but will stabilize with have to be tapped; the
time. material is soft enough
for the machine screws
The tension between the bearings and the rails to make their own Z bearing flange.
should be checked occasionally, and the tension threads in the 9/64
rods can be readjusted. inch pilot holes.

Incrementally tighten the tension rods while This flange is made the
checking that the carriage moves smoothly on the same way as the ones
rails. for the ends of the X
Tighten the bearing trucks to the top and bottom leadscrews were made.
plates with their #8 attachment screws and nuts Back of Z bearing flange with
#8 x 1-1/2 inch screws.
while adjusting the tension rods. This flange can
be made and
The carriage should ride smoothly, but it will not loosely installed
coast a long way when pushed. at this time.
Its bearing will
Any play will contribute to chatter. Therefore, it is be installed later.
better to err toward a tight system with some drag,
than to a loose system that moves exceptionally There is a
smoothly. template at the
end of the
Adjust the carriage’s Y bearings and tension rods manual.
at this time.

6·12 Z Bearing Flange

This bearing flange


supports the bottom
Z stepper and leadscrew in carriage.
of the Z leadscrew.

It is made of cutting
board plastic and is
sized to hold either a
7/8 or 1-1/8 inch OD
bearing.
Z bearing flange on
bottom plate.
A 1-1/8 inch bearing,
for a 1/2 inch lead-screw, only gives 1/16 inch of
clearance for adjustment.
A 7/8 inch bearing permits more leeway. Z bearing flange dims.

77
This system works well with smaller leadscrews
6·13 Review including 1/4 and 5/16 inch diameters.
The hose system works
At this time the gantry is on the X rails and the fair with 3/8 inch
carriage is on the gantry. leadscrews,
The carriage’s Y bearings are adjusted so the and is difficult
movement is firm but smooth. to fit and align
with 1/2 inch H ose with hose clamp coupler
leadscrews. on stepper.

The problem with larger screws


is an offset may develop as the
hose clamps are tightened. It is
challenging to keep the stepper
shaft and a large leadscrew
aligned.
H ose clam p
This lack of alignment will coupler.
increase drag, which will cause
C arriage on gantry.
the stepper to stall easily, and
the axis will not be able to move rapidly.

The leadscrew and stepper shaft should abut each


other with the hose coupling. This will lessen the
twisting of the hose and reduce backlash.

The upside to the hose clamp system is its price


and availability.

The commercially made couplers are easy to use;


Back view of machine with carriage installed.
they make the stepper to leadscrew alignment a
non-issue, and they are available in a variety of
The next step is the installation of the Y leadscrew sizes.
assembly, which includes the Y bearing flange, These can often be purchased from the leadnut or
leadnut, leadscrew, and stepper. leadscrew supplier. The couplers are machined for
specific screw threads and are not interchangeable,
unlike the homemade hose clamps.
7·1 Leadscrew to Stepper Coupler

The leadscrew is attached to the stepper with either


a homemade coupling, or a commercially produced
unit.
C om mercially
The homemade system consists made couplers.
C oupler with leadscrew and stepper.
of a 1-1/4 inch piece of 1/4
inch ID fuel line, or similar
hose, which is clamped to the These commercially made coupling clamps are
leadscrew and stepper with preferred, but when cost is a factor, the hose
system can serve well.
H ose and clam p
hose clamps. coupler.

78
7·2 Y Bearing Flange 7·3 Install Y Leadnut

The Y bearing flange The leadnut was trimmed and drilled before the
is similar to the other carriage sides were made; it can now be loosely
flanges that have installed.
already been made.
Washers can be used as needed to prevent the nuts
Bearing flange on end plate.
It is constructed from from pulling into the holes or notches that were
1/4 or 3/8 inch thick drilled for the leadnut’s attachment screws.
kitchen cutting board plastic, and is sized to hold
either a 7/8 or 1-1/8 inch OD bearing.

N uts with washers on Y leadnut in carriage.


outside of carriage.

Y bearing flange D imensions of Y bearing flange.


7·4 Install Y Leadscrew

The flange is held to Press the Y leadscrew’s stepper end bearing into
the left end plate with the end plate.
two #8-32 x 1-1/2
inch screws. These Install the Y leadscrew
screws are threaded from the left end of the
into the 9/64 inch gantry as shown
holes in the end plate. below.

The 3/8 inch holes in Thread the leadscrew


the bearing flange are through the leadnut in
oversized to permit the carriage, and pass
adjustment of the it through the bearing
Bearing in recess at stepper end
of gantry.
leadscrew’s position. at the stepper end of
the gantry.
The bearing flange
can be cut, drilled,
and loosely installed
at this time.

The bearing will be C ross section of bearing flange in


pressed into this end plate.
flange later.
Install Y leadscrew from left side.

79
Install the leadscrew- gantry end. Hold it in place by barely tightening the
to-stepper coupler on nuts on the bearing flange’s mounting screws.
the end of the Do not permanently tighten the nuts; this is a rough
leadscrew as shown adjustment.
below.
Tighten the leadnut into place in the carriage. It is
to be tight enough to hold position.
The leadnut will be permanently tightened into
place later.
Z carriage with Y leadscrew
installed Loosen the nuts that hold the bearing flange.

Turn the leadscrew to move the carriage to the left


end of the gantry, and tighten the bearing flange
into place.
Do not tighten the
screws permanently;
this may not be the
final setting for the
bearing flange.
C arriage near bearing flange.

The leadscrew is
now roughly aligned, and the Y stepper can be
Y stepper coupler on leadscrew.
installed.

The leadnut will be 7·5 Install Y Stepper


used to transfer the
positioning of the The Y stepper is held to the end of the gantry in a
fixed stepper bearing manner similar to
to the adjustable Move carriage to right end of the way the X
flange’s bearing. This gantry.
stepper is held in
is the same process as place.
was done with the X leadscrews.
The Y stepper’s
Turn the leadscrew to move the carriage to the mounting screws
stepper end of the gantry. are adjusted in
oversized holes,
Install the bearing in the rather than in
left bearing flange on slots as were used
Y stepper on end plate.

the gantry. with the X axis.


Thread a nut or collar Three #10 x 3
clamp onto the end of inch screws with
the leadscrew and nuts tie the
loosely abut it to the stepper to the end
bearing. plate’s through-
holes.
Center the leadscrew in Left end of gantry with
the hole in the left 1x6 leadscrew in place.
One #10 x 2-1/2 C ross section of stepper with
leadscrew assem bly.

80
inch screw is used with the tee nut connection. coupler; the coupler is tightened to the stepper.
The coupler should abut the leadscrew bearing.
For clarity, the Y leadscrew and X rail
components are not shown in the following The #10 x 2-1/2 inch screw is threaded into the tee
images. nut.
The three #10 x 3 inch screws receive another nut
and washer on their ends on the inside of the 1x6
end plate.

The nuts are all incrementally tightened into place


to secure the stepper in line with the leadscrew.

T op outside view of Y
The commercial couplers make this job simple.
Inside view of Y stepper
attached to end plate. stepper on end plate. Homemade couplers will require trial and error for
the parts to align.

The stepper can now be powered for the final Y


axis tuning, or the tuning can be done when the
machine is completed.

Front cross section of stepper on end plate.

Stepper end of completed gantry.

Back cross section of stepper attached to end plate.


T ee nut connection is shown.

The #10 screws are loosely attached to the stepper T he machine is now at this stage of construction.
with nuts and washers.
Nuts with washers are threaded onto the screws, The Y stepper and leadscrew components are now
and the screws are inserted into the mounting holes in place, and work can begin on the Z axis.
in the end plate.
The stepper’s shaft is inserted into the leadscrew

81
8·1 Install Z Stepper

The Z stepper is held to the top plate with three #8


machine screws. The front screws are 2 inches long
and the back screw is 1-3/4 inches.

The nuts of the front two screws are accessible


from the front of the carriage. The back nut was
embedded in the bottom of the top plate before the
top plate was glued to the carriage body.

Front cross section of stepper


on top plate.

Front view of stepper on Back view of Z stepper on


carriage. carriage.

The mounting system is


similar to the method
used on the other two
axes.

The screws are attached


to the stepper with nuts
and washers.
A pair of nuts and
washers on the front
screws sandwich the top Stepper, with leadscrew
plate. coupler, on top plate.

Back cross section showing recessed nut.


The back screw is threaded into the embedded nut,
and a nut and washer are tightened against the top
plate. Note The stepper can be installed with the
leadscrew after the Z bearings are in place.
The leadscrew is aligned by moving the bearing However, it is easier to access the stepper’s
flange at the bottom of the axis. hardware without the Z bearings in the way.

The stepper can be moved downward after the The stepper can be installed now; it should be as
leadscrew is installed to tension the Z bearing into far from the top plate as the screws allow. It will
the bearing flange. This is easier than trying to be tightened into its final position after the Z rails
access the lock nuts, which will be behind the are installed. At this time, all of the nuts should be
spindle plate. tight enough for the stepper to remain in place.

82
These two truck assemblies can be built at this
8·2 Z Bearing Trucks time. Remember that one is mirrored.

These assemblies are long versions of the Y trucks. The heads of the bolts will have to be filed after
However, unlike the Y trucks, the Z trucks are they are assembled, just as was
mirrored to give clearance for the Z tension rods. done with the Y trucks.

Z bearing truck angle dimensions.


O ne is a mirror image of the other.

8·3 Attach Z Trucks

Four #8-32 x 1-1/2 inch screws tie the two trucks


Z tension rods shown for reference. into place. Finger tighten the trucks into the
T hey will be installed later. carriage at this time.

Z truck attachment to side plate.

Attachment screw holes in Z bearings are


trucks must match sides. mirrored.

The 1/8 x 3/4 inch aluminum angle is cut to the


same length as the carriage sides. This was 9-1/4
inches on the prototypes.

Check that the holes on the corner of the aluminum,


at 1-1/2 inches from each end, match the locations
of the holes that are already drilled in the carriage
sides.
These holes accept the #8 x 1-1/2 inch attachment
screws.

The holes in the 1x4 sides of the carriage can be


enlarged should the final alignment be off. T he carriage is at this stage now.

83
The center of the leadscrew is 9/16 inch from the
8·4 Z Leadscrew Overview back plate. This will leave clearance for most
leadnuts when the flange is trimmed.
The Z leadscrew assembly includes
the stepper coupler, leadnut
bracket, collar clamp and bearing.

Parts are similar to those used on


the other axes. Leadnut on bracket.

The leadscrew can range from


hardware store threaded rod to As with the other axes, the Back view of

precision Acme. The leadnut can leadnut’s mounting screws are trimmed leadnut on
bracket.
range from a tee nut to an anti- threaded into holes in the
backlash precision leadnut. flange.
A 9/64 inch hole works well
The leadnut is supported by a with #8 screws.
bracket that is made from kitchen The screws’ length will
cutting board plastic. depend on the thickness of the
cutting board and the
Z leadnut bracket.
There is no bearing at the top of the leadnut’s flange. Screws of 1
leadscrew. The load of the spindle inch will fit most options.
is carried by the bearing at the Z leadscrew

The locations of the leadnut


assem bly.
bottom of the axis.
mounting screw holes can
A pair of nuts, a collar clamp, or vary, but they should be in
lock nut, abuts the bearing to prevent line with the center of the
the leadscrew from being pulled leadnut and leadscrew.
T wo nuts
downward . replace clamp. Right image.

The holes can be sized


differently than shown, but
8·5 Leadnut and Bracket
the 1-5/16 inch center Screw holes align with
distance between the holes center of leadscrew.
The leadnut system is similar to the one used on the
is fixed.
other axes.

The leadnut is drilled and trimmed as needed to fit


in the carriage, and a bracket is drilled to match the
leadnut.

Leadnut bracket
with holes for
three mounting
screws.

Z leadnut bracket dimensions.

The leadnut and leadnut bracket can be drilled,


C enter of leadscrew is 9/16 inch from carriage back. trimmed and screwed together now.

84
The assembly is then
8·6 Install Z Leadscrew Assembly lifted and the coupler is
slid over the stepper
The leadscrew is cut to shaft. Right image.
fit. Its length is the
distance from the bottom The coupler is tightened
plate to the end of the to the leadscrew and
stepper shaft. T he stepper.
prototypes are around 10-
1/4 inches long. The collar clamp or nut
is abutted to the bearing
The leadscrew can be a which is in the bearing
little long, but it should flange.
not extend very far from Leadscrew attached to

The nuts are locked into


stepper.
the bottom of the bottom
plate. The extra length place against the
may scrape on the stock bearing.
that is being routed.
The bearing flange should be loose enough to be
The leadnut with its
Leadscrew length.
able to slide on the bottom plate.
bracket, the stepper
coupler, bearing and collar clamp or Later, the bearing flange will be moved to align the
locking nut(s) are put on the leadscrew, as leadscrew with the travel of the Z axis.
shown on the right.
The stepper can be lowered later to firmly press the
The leadscrew is inserted into the bearing bearing into the flange.
flange. Bottom image.

Lowering the stepper and


leadscrew assembly is the
easiest way to press the
bearing into its flange when a
T wo nuts on
locking nut, or nuts, are used leadscrew.
above the Z bearing on the
leadscrew. Right image.

The spindle plate will block wrench access to these


nuts.

When a collar clamp is used above the bearing, an


Allen wrench can access the clamp’s screws
through the 5/8 inch hole in the spindle plate. In
this setup the stepper may not have to be lowered.

Install the leadscrew assembly now.

Install leadscrew in bottom bearing


flange.

85
unavailable. The stock can also be removed with a
8·7 Spindle Plate and Rails Overview router.

The spindle plate is made of 1x2 The 17/64 inch hole in the top of
wood, which has actual dimensions the 1x2 holds the threaded stud that
of 3/4 x 1-1/2 inches. ties the leadnut bracket to this
plate.
A 5/16 x 2-1/2 inch threaded stud,
which is glued into the top of the This 17/64 inch hole can intersect the
1x2, is tied to the leadnut bracket. cross hole or slot. The open end will
permit the tailings, which result from
Black pipe rails are clamped to the installing the stud, to be removed.
sides of the 1x2 with machine
screws. Z spindle This can help to prevent the plate
plate. from splitting as the stud is threaded Stud in 1x2.

An aluminum tie holds into place.


the tops of the 1/2 inch
ID pipe-rails apart. The 5/8 inch hole is a port for a hex (Allen) wrench
to access the collar clamp on the leadscrew.
The router-spindle is
held in place with
band(s) made from
plumbing hanger strap.

A band clamp can be


used here as well,
though it is harder to
bend to shape.

8·8 Spindle Plate

The plate is made of a 1x2 that is cut


to length and drilled.

Two #10 machine screws will pass


through this plate and tie the rails
into place.
The passages for the screws can be
either slots or holes.
H oles centered
in side.

The slots make the pipe attachment


much easier, but holes can be used. Spindle plate dimensions.

The hole and recess at the bottom of the spindle


Drilling the holes and then removing
plate are for a 1/4-20 x 1 inch bolt with a washer
the face material with a hand saw
which attaches the base of the router to the plate.
may be easier than trying to cut the Plate with
The 3/4 inch recess is 3/8 inch deep.
slots when an arm or table saw are slots.

86
A Porter Cable 7301 is used with the prototypes
due to its ease of installation. The DeWalt trim 8·10 Spindle Plate Stud
router has the same base and can be installed the
same way. This stud is cut from 5/16-18
threaded rod; it holds the leadnut
Other routers can be used; the connection system bracket in place.
will have to be customized for them.
The stud is threaded into the 17/64
The Porter Cable and DeWalt routers are mounted inch hole in the top of the spindle
with one band under the switch, and with a 1/4 inch plate.
bolt in the existing hole in the router’s base.
Other systems could use two bands. The hole in the wood does not have
to be pre-tapped; the stud will cut its
This plate can be cut and drilled at this time. own threads as it is installed.

The threads on the cut ends of the


8·9 Porter Cable 7301 stud should be filed clean so nuts Stud
will start easily without binding. dimensions.

This applies to the DeWalt


D26670 trim router also. This stud supports the weight of the router;
therefore, it is also glued into place.
The base of the router can be
rotated so it will align with the Epoxy glue has proved to work well. Its slow cure
spindle plate. time permits the stud to easily be threaded into
Otherwise the cord or switch place. Also, its slipperiness helps to prevent the
will abut the spindle plate wood from tearing or splitting when the hole is not
and prevent access to the 1/4 pre-tapped.
inch threaded hole in the
router’s base. The glue is spread on the threads before the stud is
R emove screws and twisted into the 1x2.
Remove the four screws from rotate base. The excess glue should be removed immediately
the base as shown. and the exposed threads should be cleaned.
Rotate the base so the cord and switch point in the
desired direction, and the 1/4 inch bolt hole in the
router’s base faces the spindle plate. The stud is driven into the hole with
locking pliers (Vise-Grips) or a
Do not pull downward on the base or the armature wrench.
will be pulled from the brushes. Care has to be taken not to damage
the threads with the pliers.
Should this happen, the top can be removed to
access the brush assembly. This can be resolved by locking two
nuts against each other on the stud as
The router will be installed after the axis is shown. The stud can then be twisted
completed. It will be in the way if installed into place with a wrench on the top
beforehand. nut. N uts locked
together on
Tailings and excess glue will be stud.

pressed out of the 17/64 inch hole


where it intersects the cross slot/hole.

87
This waste should be removed before it hardens The band is cut to length and
and blocks the cross hole. placed so its bottom edge is
3-5/8 inches from the bottom
Around 1 inch of the stud should project from the of the 1x2.
top of the spindle plate. This will leave room for
the leadnut bracket, a washer, and nut on the shaft. A screw or tack can be
driven through the band and
This stud can be cut and installed now. into the back of the 1x2 to
hold the band in place.

8·11 Band Clamp The screw or tack may


interfere with the Z bearing
This band clamp is sized and flange, and the screw or tack
positioned for a Porter Cable should be removed once the
7301 and a DeWalt D26670 rails hold the band in place. Placement of band on
plate.
trim router.
The band is clamped around
The band has to be installed the router with a 1/4-20 x 1-
before the rails are attached to 1/2 inch bolt with washers and
the spindle plate. Therefore, it a locking nut. The holes in the
is best to have the strapping may have to be
spindle/router on hand when a enlarged for the 1/4 inch bolt.
different router is used.
Otherwise, the rails will have to Pipe rails with band. The clamping bolt can be
be loosened for later installation or alterations of positioned in different T op view of band.
the band(s). locations.

Two bands can be used to The bolt can bump into the
hold a different router, as front of the machine that
shown. uses a 1x4 cross member
instead of legs. This will
This band is made of shorten the total X travel by
plumber’s hanger tape. an inch. Rotating the bolt to
This is soft metal strap the side as shown resolves Bolt on side of band.
that bends easily and can this.
be shaped with pliers and
fingers. The band can be cut, drilled, bent and
R outer held with two temporarily screwed to the spindle plate at this
bands.
time.

Band dimensions.

88
The holes should be just large enough for the heads
8·12 Z Pipe Rails of the #10 machine screws to clear.

The Z rails are made of 1/2 inch ID black iron A 23/64 inch hole was used with the screws that
pipe. were available for the prototypes; 3/8 inch holes
They are cut and drilled as shown, and are held to were very close to the bearings’ track.
the 1x2 spindle plate with #10 x 2-1/2 inch
machine screws and nuts. The holes for the shafts of the #10 screws can be
3/16 inch, or larger, if needed due to drilling
The minimum length of the rails is the distance of offsets.
the leadnut’s travel, ~8 inches, plus the distance
between the top and bottom Z bearings, ~7 inches.
This is around 15 inches, but the easiest route is to
cut the rails long to 18 inches as shown in Section
1·16. This will leave ample room for the top cross
tie, and the extra rail length will not be a problem.

T op cross section view of pipe attachment.

The 11/64 inch holes for the tie at the very top of
the pipes are not drilled at this time.

Punch- mark the locations for the #10 screw holes


before drilling. Make sure that the holes align with
the slots or holes in the 1x2 spindle plate.

The 3/16 inch holes can be drilled completely


through both walls of the pipe, and then be used as
pilots for the 23/64 inch holes.

Cut and drill the two pipes for the #10 machine
screws now.

8·13 Attach Pipes to Plate

The two #10 machine screws are inserted through


one pipe and passed through the spindle plate, if it
has holes instead of slots.
H oles in1/2 inch ID Front view of rail

The slotted spindle plate can be left alone for now,


pipe rails. assem bly.

which is easier.

The holes in the pipes for the heads of the #10 Place a #10 nut inside of the second pipe and
machine screws cannot be drilled too large or the Z position it over the 3/16 inch hole by using a punch
bearings will fall into them. or awl to reach through the 23/64 inch hole.

89
is not the permanent tightening, but the band clamp
should be in place at this time.

8·14 Cross Tie

The cross tie prevents the pressure of the bearings


T hread screw into nut. Shown from pressing the rails together when the spindle is
without 1x2 spindle plate.
lowered. This adds rigidity and lessens chatter.

Angle aluminum of 1/8 x 3/4 inch is used for this


tie because this size of stock is required elsewhere
on the machine.
Flat bar will work too.

C ross section of
When the X trucks use 1/8 x 1 inch aluminum flat
spindle plate and bar for the outrigger bearings, there may be a piece
Start nut on screw. Shown with
pipes.
of aluminum left over that can be used for this tie.
1x2 spindle plate. A flat piece is simpler since it only has to be cut to
length to clear the Z bearings.
With both pipes horizontal, as shown above, catch
the nut with the end of the screw.

A screwdriver will be required when the spindle


plate is also on the #10 screw. Thread the screw
into the nut.
Repeat the process for the second screw.
Angle cross tie at top of rails.
Slide the slotted spindle plate over
the screws, and tighten the screws The cross tie barely clears the Z bearings, and its
and nuts enough to barely hold the dimensions may have to be altered from those
1x2 in place. Do not permanently shown.
tighten the screws at this time.
When the Z rails are longer than the minimum
Place a scrap piece of 1x2 between required, the fit is not as critical, since the tie will
the rails at the top where the cross not pass near the bearings once it is installed.
tie will be installed. Right image.
The following images show the layout.
Lay the rail assembly on a flat The aluminum is cut so it clears the bearings and
surface so the rails are parallel, and nuts on the bearings’ axles.
tighten the #10 screws to hold the
scrap 1x2 in place.

This scrap holds the rails parallel


while work is done to the cross tie.
Scrap
between
rails.
Attach the rails to the 1x2 spindle
plate and tighten the #10 screws at this time. This T op view of cross tie attachment to rails.

90
Once the tie is cut and drilled, it is placed on the The Z rail and spindle plate
pipe rails. The holes in the tie are used to position assembly is lifted up through the
the matching holes in the tops of the pipes. table bed and into the
bearings.

To install the Z rails


with a solid table
bed, the gantry can
be partially removed
from the front of the
table or lifted from
the X rails. This will
H ole placement in cross tie. require loosening the
X leadnut brackets
and outr igger
bearings. Installing Z rails up through table
bed.

Lift the Z rails into the Z bearings.

D imensions of cross tie. The 1x4 bed slat can be loosely replaced; it will be
screwed in after the carriage is completed.
Holes of 11/64 inch are drilled for the two #8 x 3/4
inch screws that connect the cross tie to the rails. The bottom end of the Z rail assembly can rest on
the table bed for now.
The tie can be cut, drilled and installed at this time.
The 1x2 scrap is removed after the tie’s screws
have been tightened. 8·16 Tension Rods

The #10 screws that tie the pipes to the spindle The two Z tension rods are shorter versions of the
plate can be permanently tightened when the tie is Y rods.
in place. They are also cut
from #10 threaded
rod.
8·15 Install Z Rails
Their length is the
The Z leadscrew is outside distance of
turned to move the the carriage side
Z leadnut as high as plates plus 1/2 inch
possib le. T he for the nuts and
leadnut bracket will washers.
abut the stepper The prototypes’
coupling. R ight tension rods are: 6- Shows tension rods’ placement.
image. 1/4 inches plus 1/2 T hey are ins talled after the Z
inch to give a total pipes are in place.

length of 6-3/4
Move leadnut to top.
inches.

91
This carriage width measure should be taken after
the Z rails are in place. The Z rails may cause the This is the starting point for the Z rail alignment.
carriage sides to be pressed outward beyond the Misalignment problems at this point have to be
original 6-1/4 inch width. addressed before further work can be done.

Should the rails be too loose in the bearings for the The hole in the leadnut bracket, and the holes in the
tension rods to remove the slack, shims can be side plates for the Z trucks’ #8 attachment screws
placed between the bearing trucks and the carriage can be enlarged to allow more adjustment room, if
sides, as was described for the Y axis in Sec. 6·10. necessary.

Install the two tension rods with their nuts and


washers now; they will be adjusted as the rails are Once the stud fits well in the leadnut bracket, align
aligned. The rods’ holes in the side plates can be the bearing trucks so they are parallel with the
enlarged should extra clearance be required. front edges of the carriage side plates.

The leadnut bracket is left at the top of the axis


8·17 Align Z Rails and Trucks during the following tensioning process.

The stepper should be attached to the top plate Continue to check that the stud will fit well in the
tightly enough for it to hold position. leadnut bracket, and move the Z rails up and down
It can be lowered later to press the bottom Z while incrementally tightening the nuts on the
bearing and flange against the bottom plate. tension rods.

Tighten the tension rods enough to prevent the rails


from rattling in the bearings, but leave them loose
enough for the trucks to slide on the carriage sides.

Move the Z rail


assembly to the top
of the axis so the
5/16 inch stud slides
into the leadnut
bracket as shown.
Right image.
Move rails up and down while

The nut will not be adjusting the tension rods.

put on the 5/16 inch


stud until later.

Adjust the position The tensioning procedure is the same as was done
of the bearing trucks with the Y axis tension rods in Section 6·11.
Stud in bracket.
on the side plates so
the 5/16 inch stud is Align the rails and tension the bearings now.
centered in the leadnut bracket’s hole.

92
8·18 Attach Bracket and Align Bearing Flange

Attach the leadnut bracket to the Z axis by


tightening the nut and washer onto the 5/16 inch
stud.
The nut is put on the stud with the leadnut bracket
at the top of the axis as shown.
Bottom back view. Z rails not shown.
T ighten nuts on bearing flange screws.

The leadscrew and rails should now be parallel


with each other, and the axis should travel without
binding.

8·19 Tighten Z Stepper


Z 1x2 plate attached to leadnut bracket.
The Z bearing should be firmly pressed into the
bottom bearing flange.
Turn the stepper and leadscrew, and check for The weight of the axis is carried here, and any
excess drag between the leadscrew and leadnut. looseness will contribute to chatter.
Proper alignment may require shims between the
leadnut and the bracket, or between the bracket and The clamping screws of a collar clamp can be
the spindle plate. reached with an Allen wrench through the 5/8 inch
hole in the spindle plate.
A rough alignment can be done now, and the axis
can be fine tuned later when the stepper is The leadscrew is turned along
powered. with the stepper while the
collar clamp is prevented
from turning.
As was done with the other axes, the alignment of The leadscrew is
the leadnut and leadscrew at the stepper end of the rotated to press the
axis will be transferred to the far end of the axis. clamp against the
bearing.
Turn the leadscrew to move the axis as low as it
will go. The rails will be stopped by the table top, The clamp’s screws
or the leadnut will be stopped by the leadscrew are then tightened
clamp. with the Allen wrench.

Tighten the nuts on the bearing flange’s screws that


project from underneath the bottom plate as shown This adjustment process is
in the next image. not possible when nuts are
used in place of the collar
clamp, since the spindle
plate blocks wrench
access. Spindle near bottom of travel.

93
The bearing is pressed into the flange by moving
the stepper downward with its #8 mounting screws
and nuts.

Move the stepper downward as necessary and lock


it into place by tightening all of the nuts on the #8
machine screws.

The stepper can now be permanently tightened to


the carriage top plate.

The router can now be installed. The mounting


system is described in Section 8·11.

The machine’s steppers can now be powered, and


the axes can be fine tuned.

The process is the same for all axes.

R aised spindle.

C ompleted machine.

94
HobbyCNC and Xylotex steppers are 200 steps per
9·1 Software Settings, Introduction revolution at this writing, and this is unlikely to
change since 200 is a common value.
The settings in the software have to match the
components of the machine.
9·3 Micro-Stepping
Values include the Steps per Unit of the axis, the
Speed or Velocity, and the Acceleration. The stepper’s 200 steps can be divided into smaller
steps, micro-steps, by the drives and software. This
The factors that determine the Steps per Unit micro-stepping is used to give smoother stepper
include the steps per revolution of the stepper, the operation.
micro-stepping that is set on the drive, and the
number of turns per inch of the leadscrew. Micro-stepping may also be used to increase
resolution, to give more steps per inch, and thus
The stepper’s documentation will give the number supposedly better accuracy.
of steps per revolution; it is usually 200. This practice is not recommended by some drive
suppliers, and their documentation should be
The micro-stepping value is set on the drives, and followed.
will be recommended by the drive supplier.
Micro-stepping values can range from 2 to 16 or
The leadscrew’s turns per inch is given by the more, and are often set by altering jumpers on the
supplier, or the value can easily be derived. drive boards.

9·2 Steps per Revolution, Stepper It is better to initially use the values recommended
by the drive suppliers. The values can be changed
A stepper is designed to move one step with each later if there are problems with noisy or uneven
step signal that is sent by the drive. stepper operation.
The number of steps required for the stepper’s The alterations are a trial and error process.
shaft to turn one complete revolution is usually
200.
The stepper’s manufacturer will express this as a The micro-stepping values will be expressed as
steps per revolution value, 200, or as the number fractions or as whole numbers; e.g. 1/8 micro-
of degrees turned per step, 1.8° stepping can also be expressed as 8 micro-steps.
For each of the 200 native steps, 8 micro-steps are
This 1.8 degrees is derived by dividing the number sent to the stepper; each native step is divided into
of degrees in one revolution, 360, by the number of eighths.
steps required to turn one revolution, 200.
360°/200 = 1.8° With a 200 step per revolution stepper, the number
of steps per revolution with 8 micro-stepping
Likewise, the 200 steps per revolution can be would be 200 multiplied by 8 = 1600 steps per
derived by dividing 360° per revolution by 1.8° per revolution.
step.
360°/1.8° = 200 This value will be used to determine the number of
Steps per Unit the axis will move.
This previous information is mentioned for
background, and will probably not have to be
calculated.

95
The turns per inch is determined by dividing the
9·4 Leadscrews threads per inch by the number of separate threads
or starts.
See also Section 1·19.
All of these values are usually given by the
The Steps per Unit value that is entered into the supplier, and they will not have to be calculated.
software’s motor configuration setup also depends
on the turns per inch of the leadscrews.
An advantage with a multi-start leadscrew is it can
This value is the same as the thread count for move an axis faster without having to turn as
standard hardware store single start threaded rod. rapidly. This reduces leadscrew whipping, and
The name of this rod includes the diameter and permits a slower stepper to move the axis faster.
thread count per inch, such as 5/16-18 or 3/8-16.
A variety of leadscrews are available. It is
An 18 thread per inch rod will have to turn 18 recommended to check that the properly sized
times to move the axis one inch. leadnut is available when choosing the leadscrew.
See also Section 1·19.
Acme rod is available in a variety of threads per
inch, starts, and turns per inch.
9·6 Determining Steps per Unit (Inch)

9·5 Starts and Turns per Inch The Steps per Unit value that is entered into the
motor setup dialogue box is the native resolution of
A basic threaded rod has one start, single start, the stepper, multiplied by the micro-stepping value
which means one thread winds down the rod. Its as a whole number, multiplied by the turns per inch
turns per inch and threads per inch are the same. of the leadscrew.

A two start rod has two separate parallel threads From the previous examples.
that wind down the rod. 200 steps per revolution stepper
A multicolor barber pole or candy cane are 8 micro-stepping
examples of multi-start threads. The red thread and 5 turns per inch leadscrew.
blue thread wind down the shaft together, but they
are separate threads. 200 x 8 x 5 = 8000 Steps per Inch

A 2 start leadscrew can have 10 threads per inch, This is the value that is entered into the software’s
for example, but will only have to turn 5 times to motor setup box for each axis.
move the axis one inch. It is a 5 turn per inch
leadscrew.
9·7 Resolution

Resolution is the distance the machine moves with


each step. It is simply the reciprocal of the Steps
per Unit.

From the previous example:


The reciprocal of 8000 is 1/8000
5 T urns per Inch - 2 Start

T hreads per Inch and T urns per Inch.


1÷ 8000 steps per inch = 0.000125 inch per step

96
The smallest amount the axis with this leadscrew The complete CNC process is easier when all
and micro-stepping can be commanded to move is elements, the CAD, CAM, controller and machine
0.125 thousandths of an inch. are all are oriented the same way. Otherwise, it is
challenging to continually rotate the mental map of
A leadscrew with more turns per inch would give the process between steps.
a smaller resolution.
For example the 5/16-18 threaded rod would give
200 x 8 x 18 = 28800 steps per inch The default layout for most CAD software has the
and a resolution of 0.000034722 inch per step. X axis oriented as right-left (east-west)), Y north-
south, and Z up and down, and with the origin,
This tiny value per step is smaller than the machine 0,0,0, at the lower left hand corner.
is capable of physically holding since it is made of
inexpensive components. The CAM software can use the same orientation.
Resolution less than 1 thousandth of an inch is However, this can and frequently does vary for
unlikely to improve the performance of the both the CAD and CAM processes.
machine.

A leadscrew with 2 turns per inch with the previous The Z axis is usually the up and down axis with up
stepper, and no micro-stepping will give: motion being positive and down being negative.
The zero point, the Z origin, can be anywhere. It
200 x 1 x 2 = 400 steps per inch, and a resolution can be set as the table bed, the bottom of the stock,
of 2.5 thousandths of an inch. 1/400 = 0.0025 the bottom of the cut, or the top of the stock,
among anything else.
This value is still in the range of the machine’s This can be altered with each run to fit the g-code
expected tolerance, so this configuration could be and the stock.
used without limiting the machine’s accuracy.

There is a wide range of options for the leadscrew 9·9 Switch X and Y Axis Names
and micro-stepping values.
These can be altered to give the best performance It may be preferable to exchange the X and Y axes
and will vary with the software, each axis, stepper, on this machine, since the two axes are the same
and computer. length.

Note that some software uses Resolution rather On longer


than Steps per Unit in its motor setup; again both machines it can
are derived the same way, one is simply the be practical to
reciprocal of the other. make the X axis
the longer axis
since signs,
9·8 Axis Names
among other
As mentioned, the axes in these plans are named in projects, tend to Machine axes as described in these

a way that is logical for construction, but they can be wider-longer plans.

be renamed when the software is set up. than they are


high.
There are no hard and fast rules; the axes can be
named in a way that makes the machine the most This requires the work to be aligned with the long
intuitive to use, and this will vary among builders. axis of the table, which means the longer side of
the table is the front in terms of the CAD work.

97
It is dangerously easy to jog the axes in the wrong
On this 25 x 25 inch machine, the X and Y are the direction when the keyboard and monitor are not
same length, so there is no advantage in having the aligned with the motion of the machine.
X axis as the table bed axis.
Again, do what is the most intuitive. The machine
Also, the carriage-on-gantry axis is often capable should match the body and mind’s autopilot.
of moving faster than the entire gantry, since the
carriage is lighter and only uses one leadscrew. The controlling software can easily be reconfigured
Orienting work so it is parallel with the gantry should the initial setup be awkward.
generally permits a faster overall job.
9·10 Speed (Velocity) and Acceleration
An obvious factor is, the open front of this machine
is the easiest way to access the router and table These two values also have to be set in the
bed. So it is logical for the open front of this software’s motor setup.
machine to also be the front of the machine in Velocity is how fast the axis moves in inches or
terms of the CAD-CAM layout. mm per minute or second. The units that are used
depend on the software.
This layout assigns the X left-right motion to the The velocity is analogous to a highway’s speed
carriage moving on the gantry, and the Y motion limit. The axis will never exceed the set speed.
becomes the entire gantry moving to and from the
belted stepper. Acceleration is the rate at which the axis achieves
This is switched from the way the machine was the set velocity. High acceleration is analogous to
described and built, but it can make further a sports car, while low acceleration is a truck.
operation more intuitive. They both achieve the speed limit, but at different
rates.

Extremely slow acceleration will command the axis


to slowly ramp up to speed, while high acceleration
will cause the table to snap around, perhaps
violently.
With the smaller steppers, the axis will usually
Axes as described in some software. stall before aggressive acceleration will cause
damage to the machine. However, there is little to
Another reason to exchange the axes is mills, and be gained with high acceleration on this machine.
thus their controlling software, tend to orient the X Keeping the slider at the lower middle of the scale
motion as the left to right motion as one looks has served well.
straight at the spindle.
So again, when reading the Mach manual for
example, the axes of the machine will not be The velocity is initially set low, and it is increased
rotated 90 degrees from the descriptions. incrementally, and by trial and error during the
final tuning.
Another consideration is simply the location of the
machine’s computer monitor. It is much easier to The axis can be expected to move at a speed that is
operate the machine when the monitor is oriented approximately the rotations per minute of the
with the machine’s axes. stepper, around 500 rpm, divided by the turns per
This way the machine will move in the same inch of the leadscrew.
direction as the images on the computer monitor For example: A 5 turn per inch leadscrew will give
move. an axis speed of around 100 inches per minute

98
(500 rpm ÷ 5 tpi = 100 ipm) The leadscrew is continually turned by the stepper
Expressed as inches per second this is to move the axis from end to end.
100 ipm ÷ 60 seconds per minute = 1.67 ips.
The stepper is likely to stall somewhere in transit.
During machine tuning it is better to set the speed When it stalls near the bearing flange end of the
well below half the expected final speed. axis, the problem is usually with the placement of
the bearing and flange.
Steppers deliver the most torque at lower speeds. The flange is loosened and allowed to float as the
When tuning the machine this higher power, but leadnut is jogged close to the flange. The flange is
low speed, is useful for pushing the axis through then secured.
rough spots while the axis is being aligned. With
the velocity set too high, the axis will frequently
stall, and it will be difficult to find each problem A slightly misaligned leadnut can cause significant
area. drag.
Loosen the leadnut on its bracket and jog the axis.
The velocity can be incrementally increased as The axis should move well but with considerable
problems are addressed. backlash.
The final velocity is set by backing off of the speed Incrementally tighten the leadnut’s connecting
at which the axis stalls. screws and nuts, while testing movement by
jogging the axis.
It is better to not push the upper limits of the
velocity in the settings. A stalled stepper will ruin An axis may move well until the final tightening of
a job. the leadnut’s screws.
A shim, from a piece of paper to a section of
beverage container, placed between the leadnut and
9·11 Tuning its bracket can be used to align the leadnut.

The final alignment of the axes is a trial and error The threads of hardware store tee nuts are not
process that consists of repeating the steps that always perpendicular to their flanges, so rotating
have already been taken with each axis. the tee nut can often reduce excess drag.
Plastic anti-backlash leadnuts are easier to align.
The two primary steps are: Sometimes simply loosening and then re-tightening
components can resolve the problem.
• Align the leadscrews with the movement of the
axis. This is set by moving the leadscrews’
bearing flanges. The dual leadscrew axis is the most challenging to
• Align the leadnut on the leadscrew. This may adjust. One aluminum leadnut bracket can remain
require placing shims between the leadnut and its loose in its carriage bolts while the other side is
bracket, or the bracket and its attachment point. tuned.

The time required for the final tuning can range Again, it is important to work incrementally while
from a few minutes to hours. The job should be continually testing for drag by jogging the axis.
approached systematically to reduce the time.

This is a trial and error process which is easier A slightly misaligned stepper can also cause drag
when the steppers are powered and can be jogged. on the Y and Z axes.

When all else fails, loosen everything including the


stepper, the bearing flange, and the leadnut.

99
Then re-tighten the parts by starting with the inserted into the holes, and dowels are inserted into
stepper, then the flange and leadnut. Jog the axis to the springs.
test for drag as each component is tightened.
A clip, made of thin metal from beverage cans,
All parts, including the Y and Z bearing truck holds the router’s wire to the top of the Z axis rails
mounting screws, should be tightened during the with one of the cross tie screws.
tuning process. The X leadscrew flange mounting
screws should be installed, and all flanges should The Z stepper’s wire is tied with a clip to the top of
be secured. the carriage.

Non hardening thread-locker such as Loctite Green


can be applied to the hardware’s threads to
prevent vibrations from loosening the parts.

9·12 Wrap Up

The outrigger bearings on the X rails may bind as


they pass over the stud to pipe connection. The
pipe can bulge where the nut was tightened inside
the pipe. W ires supported with springs and dowels.

This bulge can be filed down The wires from the steppers should not be allowed
by sliding a file along the rail. A to flex where they enter the steppers.
slight bulge can cause a
noticeable hang-up in the The clips can also be used to tie the wires to the
movement of the gantry. sides of the end plates. The wires should be
File bulge. oriented so they do not continually flex at the same
This is unlikely to be a problem point. Repeated flexing will cause metal fatigue,
on the gantry’s rails and Z axis since their bearings and the wires will break.
do not pass near the stud connection points of their
pipe rails. Twist ties, zip ties or tape can be used to secure the
wires to the dowel-masts.

At this point of construction, with the machine A single speed router can be controlled with a low
virtually finished, it is easy to forgo the wire cost auxiliary speed control that the router is
attachment. However, a snagged wire can ruin a plugged into.
stepper or drive; it is not just the wires that are at This is handier and safer than a variable speed
risk. router, since it is not necessary to reach the router
to change the speed while the machine is running.
There are many ways to secure the wires; the Wire
Protection page of the website shows a number of
options. Limit switches are addressed on the website’s limit
On this smaller machine, a short mast with a spring switch page at Solsylva.com.
base is one of the simplest methods of wire
support. The machine is ready to use once its axes move
well and the wires are secure.
Holes can be drilled in the top edges of the end
plates to support the springs. The springs are

100
X 1x4 Bearing Recesses

The centers of the bearing recess holes (darkened) must be 36-1/2 inches apart on the 1x4.
The optional front horizontal 1x4 uses the same layout, but the recesses are replaced with
7/8 inch through-holes.
The 1x4 is 38-1/4 inches long.

101
X Stepper Mounting Holes

The pivot hole is 18 inches from the end of the 1x4 board.
The darkened holes match the holes in the stepper. The slotted holes can be enlarged to allow
the stepper to pivot.
The R1-7/8 value is a rounded dimension. The arc as drawn is the actual dimension.

102
1x4 Front Legs
These templates for the front 1x4 legs are shortened to fit on this page. Cut the wooden blanks to length and
align each end of the templates with each end of the blanks.
Y End Plate, Stepper End

The end plates are made of 1x6 wood; its actual dimensions are 3/4 x 5-1/2 inches.
The end plates are cut to length and drilled.

Drill the bearing’s recess before drilling its through-hole. Leave at least 1/8 inch of stock for the bearing to abut.

The pilot hole in the tee nut’s hole is drilled through the stock to serve as a center hole in the back, to mark the
position for drilling the recess. The recess is around 1/8 inch deep.

The template can be folded on the bottom edge to align the two bottom edge holes for the bottom X bearings.
These two bottom holes are centered in the 1x6; they are 3/8 inch from the edges.

104
Y End Plate, Bearing Flange End

The end plates are made of 1x6 wood; its actual dimensions are 3/4 x 5-1/2 inches.
The end plates are cut to length and drilled.

The template can be folded on the bottom edge to align the two bottom edge holes for the bottom X bearings.
These two bottom holes are centered in the 1x6; they are 3/8 inch from the edges.

105
Z Left Side, Y Leadnut Side

This is cut from 1x4 which has actual dimensions


of 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches.

The height of this side depends on the distance


between the Y bearings on the gantry rails.
See Section 6-3.

The 9-1/4 inch dimension shown will vary on


each machine.

The notch on the edge and the darkened holes


must match the leadnut.

106
Z Right Side, Near Y Stepper

This is cut from 1x4 which has actual


dimensions of 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches.

The height of this side depends on the distance


between the Y bearings on the gantry rails.
See Section 6-3.

The 9-1/4 inch dimension shown will vary on


each machine.

107
Z Top Plate

These Z top and bottom plates are made of 1x4.


The match marks for the back and sides are shaded.
These templates can be folded on the edge to mark the position of the pilot holes for the decking
screws which are driven into the edges of the 1x4s. The holes for these screws are also shaded.
These screws are centered on the edges.

108
Z Bottom Plate

109
Bearing Flanges and Z Leadnut Bracket

The bearing flanges can all be cut from 1/4 or 3/8 inch thick plastic kitchen cutting board.
The Z leadnut bracket will perform better if made of 3/8 inch thick stock.

Z axis bearing flange.


Section 6·12.
X bearing flange, left end.
Section 5·2.

X bearing flange, right end.


Section 5·2.
Y bearing flange.
Section 7·2.

Z leadnut bracket. Parts cut from small cutting board.


Section 8·5. 110
111
CNC Router Plans
Plans for a 13 x 13 Inch
Fixed Gantry Machine

By

David Steele
NOTICE: That which makes CNC machines useful also makes them
dangerous; they move without direct human control.
A CNC table MUST have an easily accessible Emergency Stop button.
The table must be in a safe location where it is inaccessible to children
and unauthorized users; these are not toys, even a small machine can
inflict serious injury. You, the user of these plans, assume all liability
and responsibility for the construction process, and the product you
create.
Do not use these plans if these conditions of use are unacceptable to you.

Copyright © 2011 David K. Steele

David Steele is the copyright owner of these plans. In consideration for


payment, David Steele grants a licence to use the plans for the purpose
of building a machine for personal use.
The licence is not assignable.
Table of Contents

Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Cut Lumber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Drill X Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Assemble X Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Bushings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
X Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Install Bushings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Install Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
X Leadnut Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Install X Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Gantry Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Gantry Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Gantry Sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Install Y Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Z Carriage Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Z Carriage Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Z Carriage Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Install Screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Install Z Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Y Leadnut Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Install Y Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Template for Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Z Stepper Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Spindle Support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Tension Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Cross Tie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Install Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Contents Continued

Install Z Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Z Leadnut Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Spindle Supports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Wire Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Axis Names . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Switch X and Y Axis Names . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Software Settings, Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Steps per Revolution, Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Micro-Stepping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Leadscrews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Starts and Turns per Inch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Determining Steps per Unit (Inch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Resolution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Speed (Velocity) and Acceleration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Porter Cable 7301 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Leadscrew to Stepper Coupler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
pushed to its potential. The advantage of a trim
Overview router over a Dremel is it permits the use of a
larger inventory of bits, and longer running times.
This machine has a cutting area of 13 x 13 x 5
inches, and was designed to be as inexpensive and The prototypes of this machine used the
easy to build as possible. HobbyCNC stepper and drive system. The rapids
were faster than could be achieved with the same
The small size permits the use of bushings that ride steppers and leadscrews on the other tables, since
on unsupported rails. This system is simple and this machine is so small and light.
requires fewer tools. There are no aluminum parts,
and no metal to bend or tap. All framing This machine uses a moving table rather than a
components are made of standard sized lumber cut moving gantry; this configuration is frequently
to length; therefore, a table-saw is unnecessary. used on small tables because of its simplicity. The
This machine can be built in hours, not days, and drawback is the entire machine has to be twice as
the only power tools used to build one of the long as the size of the cutting area, since the
prototypes were a chop saw and a hand held drill. moving table has to travel from end to end under
the gantry.

On this machine, the table overhangs the X chassis


at the extremes of its movement. With this layout
the machine takes up less storage space, though
clearance does have to be provided when the
machine is in use.

This machine is constructed of standard sized


lumber. The main components are made of a 2x4
and a 1x4 that are cut to length. The table bed is a
15 x 15 inch piece of 3/4 inch stock; this can be
MDF, plywood or plastic.

C ompleted machine. A prototype that used a low cost 11 x 14 x 1/4 inch


cutting board for the moving table was also made
Except for the electrical components, the to demonstrate possible modifications.
prototypes were made solely from materials that
were purchased from the local Lowes home center
for less than $150. For further savings, it is
possible to build a lighter duty version of this table
with copper plumbing pipe and fittings, rather than
steel rod and bronze bushings.
The quality of the work, when cutting MDF and
fine grained stock, is comparable to the work
produced by the other Solsylva tables, when they
use All Thread leadscrews. However, this machine
cannot handle heavier loads as well, since it uses
small unsupported rails. Hardwood has to be cut Variation with cutting board table and
gas pipe gantry supports.
with a larger number of shallow passes, rather than
a few aggressive ones. All of the axes of the machine are simple, and
easily lend themselves to variations in materials
This machine is solid enough to use a trim router,
and form. These plans address the simplest version,
though the machine will flex before the router is

5
which uses only wood for the frame, but plastic or The spindle/router is tied to another section of 1x4
metal could be substituted. at the bottom.
Drywall screws tie the leadnut blocks to the 1x4
The drawings below show the layout of the wood plate.
for each of the three axes. There is a larger image
on the last page of this manual. The other components of the table include ½ inch
rods for the rails. The prototypes used cold rolled,
hot rolled and plated steel. They all worked well.
The table is sized to use exactly three 3 foot
sections of ½ inch rod, which are cut to length for
each axis with no waste.
Bushings ride the rails and are held into place with
½ inch EMT one hole strap.
The rails are secured with screws and plumbing
hanger strap.
The leadscrews are 1/4-20 threaded rod, and the
W ooden components with rails.
leadnuts are tee nuts. Threaded rods are also used
to tie the Z axis together, and to partially support
The X axis’ chassis is made the spindle/router.
of two 2x4 side rails
that are held between The plans are sequenced in the order the table is
1x4 and 2x4 end constructed. Each axis is assembled and operated
plates. These parts are with its stepper before the following axis is built.
screwed together with Therefore, it is recommended to have the steppers
X C hassis
decking screws. on hand and ready for use.

The gantry assembly is made of 1x4s with This sequencing is not mandatory; the table is
a 2x4 base. One cross member small enough that it can be rolled over for tuning
is directly below the leadscrew; and final adjustments, but it is much easier to tune
this adds rigidity, and helps to the X axis during construction so the completed
deflect dust. table can be left upright.
The other cross tie is a 2x4 that
passes under the X chassis.
This 2x4 adds significant Cut Lumber
stability to the system. Y G antry
Everything is tied together The machine is dimensioned so only one 2x4x8ft.
with 1-5/8 inch drywall screws. and one 1x4x8ft. are used for the main body.
The table can be built primarily from one inch
The Z axis is nominal (3/4 inch actual) stock, but the 2x4s used
made of sections for the sides of the X chassis, and for the bottom of
of 1x4, with a the Y gantry do add rigidity.
section of 2x4
that supports the The gantry has to be mounted to solid stock to
Y leadnut. maintain stability.
The stepper is
supported with a The next images show the dimensions of each
ripped section of board. The cumulative measurements starting from
1x4 at the top of Z Front Z Back
the left are given as well. These assume a blade
the axis. width or kerf of 1/8 inch.

6
D imensions of parts from 1x4. T he stock’s actual dimensions are 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches.

D imensions of parts cut from 2x4. T he stock’s actual dimensions are 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 inches.

By starting from the left, and marking the The boards need to be as straight as possible. The
cumulative measurements on the board, the pieces type of wood is not too important. The very soft
can all be marked and then cut without having to “white wood” will work, but it does tear easily.
keep repeating the measure-one and cut-one cycle.
The 2x4x8' can also be a 2x4x93 which is a
It does not matter if the saw blade is slightly wider standard precut stud in some regions. These studs
or narrower than 1/8 inch; however, for ease of can sometimes be straighter and less expensive
construction, it is important for the cuts to be than a standard 2x4x8'.
square. The actual dimensions of a 2x4 are 1-1/2 x 3-1/2
inches; a 1x4 is 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches.
These cross cuts can be sawn for free, or for a
modest fee, at many lumber yards if a chop, miter Note that MDF flexes more than grained boards; it
or arm saw is unavailable in the home shop. has a clean smooth surface, but when ripped to
narrow widths it is more flexible than lumber.
Of course a hand saw will work too, but it is
challenging to saw clean square cuts by hand. MDF is not recommended as a replacement for the
2x4 and 1x4 in this table when the dimensions and
The photos show a SPF (spruce pine fir) 2x4, and layout in these plans are used. To maintain stability
a pressure treated southern yellow pine 1x4. different bracing would be necessary.
The treated wood was used only because the
lumber yard’s selection of SPF 1x4 was of poor Measure and cut the two boards at this time.
quality at the time.

Drill X Chassis

Work on the X axis can begin once the lumber is


cut to length.

Mark and drill the holes as shown in the drawings


on the following page.

It is easier to mark the hole positions before the


corners of the end plates are removed. The top
Lumber cut to length.

7
Front 1x4 of X axis

Back 2x4 of X axis

corners of the end plates do not have to be cut; they


were cut on one of the prototypes for appearance, The holes for the NEMA 23 stepper’s mounting
and to allow more clearance for C-clamps that hold screws are in a bolt circle that is 2-5/8 inches in
the stock to the table. diameter.
This circle is shown in the dimensioned drawing for
There is still a ½ inch of clearance between the reference. However, this yields somewhat awkward
table and the X end plates with the corners in dimensions for the stepper holes. It is easier to drill
place, so there is room for small clamps without the 1/4 inch pilot hole for the stepper’s shaft, and
the corners being clipped. to place the stepper into the hole, and then use the
stepper body itself to mark the hole positions.

Base made of 2x4 and 1x4.

The curved patterns cut into the gantry sides and


the bottom of the end plates, as shown on the cover
page, were cut for appearance only.
These were freehanded with a jig saw and
bandsaw. One side’s pattern was cut, and its scrap U se stepper to mark holes in 1x4.
was used as a template for its matching side.

8
Align the stepper’s holes with the vertical line at 8- Drilling the other leadscrew hole in the 2x4 end
1/4 inch, and the horizontal line at 1-1/8 inch, and plate to a larger size will allow the leadscrew to
mark the holes’ locations. Remove the stepper and whip, and cause an annoying rattle as the screw
drill the holes. turns.

The stepper is turned 45 degrees so two opposite The 1-1/2 inch hole can be drilled or cut after the
holes can be screwed to the end plate. stepper’s mounting holes have been drilled.
This will hold the stepper true, and will prevent the This large hole gives clearance around the
coupler between the leadscrew and stepper from stepper’s shaft for hose clamps that tie the
flexing as the leadscrew turns. leadscrew to the stepper.

The top hole of the stepper extends beyond the top The hole can
edge of the end plate board. The moving table either be drilled
passes over the stepper, so the stepper cannot be with a hole saw,
installed any higher. or cut and
chiseled as
The stepper can be rotated to an angle other than shown. The hole
45 degrees so the mounting holes are in a different does not have to
position. To keep things simple, and to allow the 1- be clean to serve H ole for stepper can be cut and
1/2 inch hole to be coarsely removed, as shown in its purpose. chiseled rather than drilled.

the right column, the 45 degree positioning was


used. The holes near the ends of the end plates are drilled
to 3/32 inch, and serve as pilot holes for the screws
The holes for the stepper’s mounting screws are that tie the 2x4 sides to the end plates.
drilled oversized to 1/4 inch.
All 1/4 inch holes are shaded in the dimensioned These holes will be used as guides to drill the pilot
drawings on the previous page. holes in the ends of the 2x4 side pieces.
The oversized holes allow for alignment of the They are then enlarged and countersunk for the 2-
leadscrew and stepper since the other end of the 1/2 inch decking screws that tie the end plates to
leadscrew cannot be adjusted. the sides.

H oles in top of back 2x4, back view.

H oles in top of front 1x4

9
Four 3/32 inch holes are drilled into the top edges The pilot holes in the top edge of the back 2x4 end
of the each of the end plates; these accept 1 inch plate should be closest to the inside of the table.
drywall screws that tie the rails into place. See (Circled in photo.)
drawings on the bottom of the previous page. The metal rails will overlap the end plates by 3/4
inch, and the clamps will not cover the rails if the
Drill all of the holes in the end plates now. 2x4 end plate is installed backwards.

The ends of the end plates are flush with the sides
The 2x4 sides do not have any holes drilled into of the side 2x4s.
them at this time. They are simply lumber cut to
length. Use the pilot holes in the faces of the end plates to
It is important for the cuts to be square since their position the pilot holes in the ends of the side 2x4s;
ends hold the machine square. They were cut when use a 3/32 inch bit. Trying to drive the screws into
the 2x4 was sawn into sections. the ends of the 2x4s without pilot holes will pull
the side boards out of alignment; drilling these
pilots is worth the effort.

Enlarge and countersink the holes in the end plate


for the decking screws’ shafts and heads; check to
be sure there is clearance for a 2x4 underneath the
2x4 sides of X chassis; two required.

side 2x4s before driving the screws into position.


Finish washers under the heads, or another type of
Assemble X Chassis screw can be used for this connection.
Complete work on one end of the table at a time to
The X axis is held together with 2-1/2 inch long prevent mismatching the pilots from their
decking screws or the equivalent. Glue is not corresponding holes.
mandatory, but it does help to hold parts together
over time. Drill and enlarge the holes, and screw the parts
Work on a flat surface to help ensure that the table together now.
will be level.

Rest the side boards on pieces of 2x4 while drilling Bushings


and screwing the sides to the end plates. Photo
below. The bushings are ½ inch ID (Inside Diameter) and
11/16 inch OD by 1-1/8 inch long; these were used
A 2x4 for the gantry will be tied underneath these because they were what Lowes sold.
two side boards later, so this bottom clearance is
important. Different lengths will also work. The 1-1/8
bushings were cut in half to check the
performance of the table with shorter
bushings.

Bushing cut in half. Short


Sides temporarily supported with 2x4s. bushings are easier to align but
N ote position of circled pilot holes for rail tie-down straps. allow more play.

10
The shorter bushings allowed more play but were The two Y axis’ rods are 18 inches each, which are
easier to align. made by cutting a 36 inch rod in half.

Mcmaster.com sells a variety of sizes at prices These sizes, 12, 18, and 24 inches, are also
below those of Lowes, but this requires mail order. common sizes for higher quality metal, and chrome
They also sell matching rails of higher quality. plated rods, so they can easily be upgraded.
It is the opinion here that unsupported rails with
Bushings with an OD bronze bushings on a wooden machine do not
of 5/8 inch can also justify the cost of higher quality rails. But there are
be used, but they will always exceptions where the cost may be
not fit tightly into the warranted.
½ inch EMT straps,
which are used to The rails that were locally available included cold
support them. rolled steel, hot rolled steel, and plated steel.
Right photo. Bushing held in EMT strap
The cold rolled steel was the closest to 0.5 inch in
This is addressed by sliding the bushings into ½ diameter over its entire length, but it still varied,
inch copper pipe couplers, photo below. undersized, by as much as 0.004 inch.

The hot rolled steel varied undersized and oversized


by 0.005 from the nominal 0.5 inch, so it had to be
filed and sanded for the bushings to ride smoothly.
This was done by turning the rod with a drill while
sanding it with fine grit paper.

The plated rail was consistently undersized by


0.004 inch. This consistent but undersized diameter
5/8 inch bushing fits in copper coupler made the plated rail the easiest to adjust so the
bushings would ride with a minimum of drag;
The coupler’s center stop notches are removed with however, there was more play in the system.
a file. Lowe’s inventory was limited so both sizes
of bushings were purchased to give the eleven A chrome plated rail was tested, and its diameter
bushings necessary for this table. was within 0.001 of the 0.5 inch diameter. It was
undoubtedly a better product, which had better
Four bushings are used for the X axis, three for the accuracy and less drag, but it was far more costly.
Y, and four for the Z.
It is important to note that the bushing’s inside
diameter is near 0.504 inch, so even the best rail
Rails and bushing system will still have some play.

The rails are ½ inch steel rod. Different types of


rod were used in the prototypes, and they all Another option, which worked well enough for
performed similarly. experimenting, used ½ inch copper pipe as the
rails, with ½ inch copper couplings as the
The rods are most easily found in 3 foot lengths. A bushings.
total of three 3 foot rods are needed.
The two rails for the X axis are cut to 24 inches, The couplers’ center stop notches were removed
and the 12 inch remainders are used for the Z axis. with a rat-tail file.

11
There was more
play in the X Table
system, but when
used with a The table for the X axis is made of MDF, plywood
Dremel, the or plastic.
quality of work It can also be a cutting board when sawing this
was fair. slab is a problem. Photo below.

The copper rails


are soft and C opper coupling as bushing on
flexible, and can copper water pipe.
only carry a light
load. Therefore, grained wood or deep cuts
yielded worse results.

The photo below shows an example of the copper


railed machine’s work.
The piece was cut in one pass with a vee bit in a
Dremel. The work is four inches wide. The play
and flex allowed chatter, which caused the ridges in
C utting board used as table.
the vee cut.
This board is cut to 15 x 15 inches, which leaves
clearance for clamps between the gantry sides, and
gives a one inch perimeter around the 13 x 13
cutting area.

The size of the board can be different than drawn.


However, it is important for the holes for the EMT
clamps to be spaced so the rails will align with the
rail-clamp holes that were drilled into the tops of
the end plates.

The bushings are held into place with single hole ½


inch EMT straps. Photo below.
C ut in M D F with copper bushings and rails. T he chatter marks
are most obvious where circled.

The copper pipe and fitting system worked well


enough to be used as an introductory tool or
teaching aid, and the cost was minimal.

Cut the rails to length now. There are two each at


24, 18 and 12 inches.
The 12 inch rods are the remainder from the 24
inch rods when 36 inch stock is used.
File or sand as needed, so the bushings ride
smoothly over the entire length of the rods.
Bushing held to table with EMT strap
and machine screw.

12
The distance between the center of the strap’s hole, The holes are drilled to 9/64 inch; they will hold 8-
and the center of the bushing is around 7/8 inch. 32 x 1-1/4 inch flat head machine screws.
The large hole in the strap allows for adjustment.

The holes in the table board will have to be altered


when straps with a measure that is different from
the 7/8 inch are used.

To address this difference, place the rails with


bushings and straps on the table, and use the 6 inch
block, which was cut for the Z axis, as a spacer.
Right photo.

Mark where the EMT strap holes align with the


table and drill the holes.
6 inch wood block used as positioning spacer.
T ee nuts are near the edges of the board.

T able Bed Slab

13
The machine screws are tightly threaded into these
small holes. This will make it much easier to adjust Install Bushings
the bushings, since the machine screws will not
freewheel as their nuts are tightened against the Loosely attach the EMT straps with bushings to
EMT straps. the table with nuts and washers. Slide the 24 inch
rails through the bushings so the bushings are
The four 5/16 inch holes are optional; they hold oriented toward each other, as shown below.
1/4-20 tee nuts that are part of a simple clamping
system, which is shown on the web site on the
“Hold Downs” page.

Holes for tee nuts can be drilled anywhere on the


table that does not interfere with the bushings or
rails.
It is likely that it will be convenient to install more
tee nuts once the table is in use. Tee nuts can be
seen in the previous and right photo.

The two 9/64 holes that are 5 inches from the end
of the table board are for drywall screws that will Position rails with wood block and combo square.

tie the leadnut block to the table.


Position one rod so it is 4 inches from the side of
The 9/64 inch holes have to be deeply countersunk the table. A combination square makes this easy.
into the top of the table so the router bits will not
hit the heads of the screws when the table is in use. Adjust both ends of the rod so it is parallel with the
Photo below. edge of the table, and tighten its EMT clamps to
the table.
The rod should slide smoothly through the
tightened bushings.
If it drags, check that the bushings are in line. The
slightest offset will cause binding.

The bushings can be adjusted while leaving the


nuts tight, by twisting the EMT strap and bushing
with pliers.

Use the 6 inch long 1x4 block that was cut


previously; abut it to the installed rail as shown in
the photo, and press the remaining rail against it.

Do this for both ends of the rod, and tighten its


bushings into place.
X table top with screws in deeply countersunk holes. Both rods should slide smoothly through their
bushings at this time.
Cut and drill this board now.

Drive four 8-32 x 1-1/4 inch flat head machine


screws into the four 9/64 inch holes that are 3-3/8
inches from the edges of the board.

14
Cut and trim the strap now, and insert 1 inch
Install Rails on X Chassis drywall screws with #8 or #10 washers into the
straps’ end holes.
The rods are held onto the X chassis with screws, Insert the screws with straps and washers into the
washers and plumbing strap. Image below. pilot holes that were drilled in the top of the end
plates, as shown in the photo on the left and below.

Flip the table


board, with the
rails and bushings
installed, so it is
right side up.
Turn it so its holes
for the leadnut
block are away
from the stepper R ail tightened into place. R ails
end of the X are flush with edge of 1x4.

Screws with washers and strap that hold rail. chassis, and put the
ends of the rails under the straps.
The strap is cut into sections that are around 1-1/2
inches long. The rails should be flush with the front of the 1x4
The strap is cut between every third hole; the holes end plate; they will only extend half way over the
are usually ½ inch apart. top edge of the back 2x4 end plate.
It does not matter whether the end holes are large
or small. The corners can be snipped to knock off Center one rail under its clamp and incrementally
the sharp edges. tighten the clamp’s screws into place. Alternate
between screws while tightening to prevent one
The material is soft and cuts easily; an old pair of screw from pressing the rail sideways.
scissors will work when metal shears are
unavailable. Measure the distance the rail is from the side of the
table, photo below, and transfer this measurement
to the back end of the same rail, and tighten the
second clamp into place.
Again, it is important to tighten incrementally while
taking turns between the two screws.

Plumbing strap cut with shears or scissors.

Eight of these strap pieces are needed, that is four


for the X and four for the Y axes; the Z rails are
held into place differently.
Measure rail’s distance from edge of table.

15
Tighten the other rail’s two strap-clamps into place
taking care to not offset the rail.

Once the clamps are in place, the table should


move smoothly from end to end of the X chassis.
Unfortunately, this may not be the case.

First, use the 6 inch long 1x4 block to check that


the rails are parallel. Adjust the rails under the
clamps as needed, and again try to slide the table
from end to end.
A shim between a bushing and the table board
may be required.
If the movement is still stiff, flip the entire table
and chassis upside down, and rest the top of the Each bushing should be tightened into place when
table on the work surface. Photo below. the table is at the end of its travel, and the bushing
is next to an end plate. This will align the bushing
With the table board stationary, slide the chassis with a firmly positioned part of the rail.
from end to end.
Loosen one bushing to check if it makes a The binding can be removed by working from
difference. If not, work around to each bushing to bushing to bushing; usually it is only one bushing
find the problem. that causes the problem.
Sometimes simply loosening and re-tightening one
or all of the bushings will remove the extra drag.

When the table slides smoothly on the rails, the


leadscrew assembly can be installed.

Install the table onto the X chassis and adjust it so


it moves without drag at this time.

Leadnut Assembly

Slide the chassis on the table; loosen each bushing to find the
The leadscrew system consists of a 1/4-20 x 24-1/2
one that binds. inch long threaded rod with a tee nut that serves as
N ote that the holes (circled) for the leadnut block are toward the the leadnut.
back of the table.

Potential problems include the table board not


being perfectly flat. This can be remedied by
placing a piece of thin metal or plastic (drink
can or milk jug, etc.) underneath one of the
bushings to shim it into line. Above right photo.

Another problem may be that the rails are not


straight.
Turn the bent rail(s) so the bend is bowed toward
the table top.
With this orientation, the distance between the rails
will not be affected by the bowing.
Leadnut block is attached to the bottom of the
table.

16
The leadnut is attached to a section of 2x4 that is Two 8-32 x 2 inch machine screws are driven
screwed to the bottom of the moving table. through the two 9/64 inch holes in the block. These
holes are small so the screws will not freewheel.
The 4 inch long section of 2x4 that supports the
leadnut was cut earlier.
It is now cut parallel with the grain to 2-1/4 inches The tee nut that serves
high. This is to allow clearance for the gantry’s as the leadnut can be
2x4 cross brace. This brace will be installed later. tined (pronged) or tine-
less.
Should smooth flanged
The position of the hole in this leadnut block is tee nuts be unavailable,
determined by aligning the 2x4 block against the the tines can be bent or
end of the X axis where the leadscrew will pass broken so the tee nut
through the end plate. Image below. will lie flat against the T ines on tee nut bent flat
block. or removed.

File any rough edges off of the tee nut. The nut has
to slide smoothly over the surface of the 2x4 for
adjustment.

Mark position of leadscrew on block.

T ee nut held into place with screws and washers.


This is marked, Photo is for reference; the tee nut cannot be
installed at this time.
and the line is
extended to the Washers of varying sizes from #8 to 1/4 inch, and
center of the nuts on the machine screws, clamp the tee nut into
block where the place.
holes are drilled.
Right image. A large washer can be placed over the entire tee nut
to help hold it. This washer is optional, but can
H oles in block are in line
with leadscrew mark.
make adjustment easier when the tee nut is not
centered between the two machine screws.

D imensions on the left side of the drawing for the vertical T ee nut projecting through
placement of the holes are approximate. optional large washer.

17
The ½ inch hole in the wooden block allows the Note: The stepper can be run and tuned with no
position of the tee nut to be adjusted. load before being attached to the leadscrew.
The tee nut can be oriented with its shaft pointing Adjusting the settings in the controlling software
into or out of the block. can be tedious, and any extra load on the stepper
will alter performance.

Cut and drill this block at this time.


Drive the machine screws into it, and bend or The following is done with the table upside down.
remove the tee nut’s tines. The leadscrew has to be
installed before the tee nut can be installed and The leadscrew is passed through the hole for the
adjusted. stepper in the end plate, and the tee nut is threaded
onto it.
The leadscrew is then passed through the 2x4
leadnut support block with the block’s machine
screws pointing toward the tee nut, as shown in the
image in the left column.

Two 1/4-20 nuts are threaded onto the leadscrew,


then two washers.

The leadscrew is passed through the X axis’ 2x4


end plate, and two more washers and nuts are
installed. These nuts are circled in the image below.

Leadnut clamped into place.

Install X Leadscrew

The leadscrew is supported by the 1/4 inch hole in


the back 2x4 end plate, and by the stepper.

It is attached to the stepper with a 1 inch section of


1/4 inch ID automotive fuel line or similar. Hose
clamps tighten the hose onto the threaded rod and
stepper shaft. Image below.

T he nuts and washers that sandwich the X end plate are


circled.
A line that marks the position of the holes for the leadnut
block’s support screws on the table top is circled below the
block.

The nuts and washers will be abutted to the end of


the axis to help reduce the backlash that results
from the stretching of the hose.
These nuts are adjusted later; leave them loose for
now.
H ose with hose clamps on stepper. See page 44 for
other options.

18
Install the hose onto the stepper shaft so the shaft Mark the holes in the 15 x 15 inch moving table
is half way into the hose. that are for the leadnut support block’s mounting
Clamp the hose into place with a hose clamp. screws. See photo in right column on page 18.
Put the other clamp on the hose but leave it loose.
Position the leadnut block over the holes in the
Attach the stepper to the end plate with three 8-32 moving table so the leadscrew passes through the
x 1-1/4 inch machine screws. Use washers with the center of the ½ inch hole in the block.
nuts.
Take care to center the stepper in its hole. Slide the entire machine to the edge of the work
surface so the mounting holes in the moving table
Note. The leadnut block is mounted at the far end can be reached with a drill, photo below, and drill
of the moving table to help reduce any loading that 3/32 inch pilot holes into the 2x4 block up through
may result from the stepper being slightly out of the moving table’s existing pilot holes.
alignment.
However, any offset can contribute to binding of
the leadnut. Binding will increase drag and reduce
the table’s speed.

After the stepper is installed, insert the leadscrew


into the hose, and clamp it into place. The
leadscrew and stepper’s shaft should touch. The
hose clamps should be near each other to help
prevent the hose from twisting between them.

W ith the table hanging over side of the work-


bench, drill pilot holes into the leadnut’s 2x4 block
through the existing holes in the table.

Drive 1-5/8 inch drywall screws into the holes to


tighten the block into place.

Turn the tee nut on the leadscrew so the tee nut


Stepper m ounted to X chassis, viewed from bottom of table. abuts the wooden block.

Incrementally tighten the tee nut into place with


The leadscrew will now turn when the stepper is nuts and washers on the wooden block’s machine
turned. screws.
The leadscrew should not wobble; adjust the hose
and clamp to remove any offset. Turn the stepper and leadscrew while tightening the
This can be challenging when the stepper has a flat nuts to assure the tee nut is positioned in line with
for a set-screw on its shaft. the leadscrew.

A slight wobble will usually not be a problem, but Turn on the stepper, and with the table remaining
the vibrations caused by being out of balance can upside down on the workbench, jog the axis. The X
telegraph through to the work. table will remain stationary and the chassis will
move.

19
Adjusting the tee nut so the table jogs without
stalling can be challenging. Gantry Overview
Frequently the motion will be fine until the tee nut
is tightened into its final position. The last twist of The gantry is made of three
the nuts can offset the tee nut and cause binding. sections of 1x4 and one piece
of 2x4.
This adjustment is a trial and error process. The parts are tied together
with decking and drywall
Check that the tee nut is not being held out of true screws.
by the sides of the ½ inch hole in the 2x4 block, or
by the machine screws. The rails are attached to the G antry made of 1x4 with
Binding can also be caused by the 2x4 block not edges of the two upright 1x4s
a 2x4 base.

being perfectly in line with the direction of travel. using the same screw and strap method that was
used to tie the X rails to the chassis.
Simply loosening and re-tightening the nuts can
sometimes solve an unseen offset.
Occasionally it is necessary to flip the tee nut over
so it points in the opposite direction.

Tee nuts’ heads are not always square with their


threads, so rotating the tee nut may help with
alignment.

In this shop some leadscrews and nuts have been


tuned on the first try, and others have taken a half
hour even though there was no obvious reason for
the problem.

Work incrementally, and keep the stepper speeds


below 30 ipm while adjusting the components. The
stepper speed can be increased when the table
moves smoothly.

The nuts that


sandwich the end
G antry attached to X axis. Arrows show 3 bushings.

plate can be The leadscrew and stepper system are similar to the
tightened after X axis’s system, but the stepper is held to the
the leadnut has gantry with long machine screws to allow easier
been secured. access to the coupler.
The washers This method also eliminates the need to remove a
should abut the large section of wood from the supporting 1x4.
end plate, but
should not cause T ighten the nuts against each other. The gantry’s inside measure is 16-1/2 inches,
any drag on U se a backer wrench to keep from
which allows clearance around the table for clamps
the leadscrew.
loading up the leadscrew.
or larger stock. This distance uses 18 inch rails that
Use a second backing wrench, photo above, while are made by cutting a standard 36 inch rod in half.
tightening the nuts into place to keep from placing
a load on the leadscrew. The gantry can be built quickly, the tuning is done
Work on the gantry can begin once the X axis is after the Z carriage is installed.
aligned and moves well.

20
Align the 2x4 so it is 5-1/4
Gantry Bottom inches from the X 2x4 end,
and use the holes that were
This 2x4 cross brace serves to anchor the sides of just drilled in this 2x4 as
the gantry, and it adds significant rigidity to the guides to drill matching 3/32
system. inch pilot holes into the
bottom of the X chassis’
Pilot holes are drilled into this 2x4, and it is sides.
attached to the bottom of the X chassis with 2-1/2
inch decking screws.

Position of gantry on X chassis, X stepper would be on left.

Countersink the holes for the heads of the 2-1/2


inch decking screws, and screw the 2x4 into place.

The X axis can now be turned upright.

Gantry Sides

The sides of the gantry


are made of the 1x4s
2x4 cross brace screwed to bottom of X chassis. that were cut to 19
inches.
This board is positioned so its back is 5-1/4 inches They are tied together
from the back end of the X chassis. See drawing on at the base with the 2x4
right and above photo. in the previous section.

This placement will position the router-spindle near A 1x4 x 16-1/2 inches
the center of the table so the full 13 inches of travel ties the tops together. G antry 1x4s

can be utilized. Right image. This cross


member is directly under the leadscrew. It deflects
Drill the 11/64 inch pilots into the 2x4 at this time. dust, and counters the leadscrew loads that are
Image below. The holes are placed so they will not placed on the sides of the machine.
interfere with the screws that will later tie the sides
of the gantry to the machine.

G antry 2x4

21
Holes are drilled into the sides of the 1x4s, as The three stepper mounting holes are the three
shown in the drawings below, and the pieces are nearest the ½ inch hole.
screwed together with 1-5/8 inch drywall screws.
The holes in the narrow face of both of the boards
The pilot holes are used as guides for their are 3/32 inch; these are for the rails’ support
matching holes in the parts to which the clamps.
components are attached.
The ½ inch leadscrew hole may tear through the
All holes in the sides of the boards, with the edge of the board, this is not a problem. Clean the
exception of the leadscrew holes, are 3/16 inch. torn edges with a knife and sandpaper.

All holes, except the three that hold the stepper’s The dashed lines across the width of the boards
mounting screws, are countersunk for the heads of mark the location of the horizontal cross member,
the drywall screws. which is 7-1/8 inch from the tops of the side
boards.

H oles for rail clamps in


both sides of gantry.
G antry, leadscrew side.
G antry, stepper side.
22
Use a square to check that the sides are square with The top rail only uses one bushing because an
the X chassis and table top. Be sure the leadscrew extra bushing does not significantly increase
and rail support holes face the center of the X axis. stability, and its use makes alignment more
difficult.

Rest the blade of the combination square on the


table bed, as shown below, and use the square’s
body to support the bottom rail. The rail is centered
between the two clamp screw holes in the 1x4.
Install the clamp on this side.

Square gantry with X axis. Screw the parts together with


1-5/8 inch drywall screws.

Note. The stepper side of the gantry, the side with


the ½ inch leadnut hole, can be on either side of the
X axis.
In the drawings and photos of the prototypes, it is
on the left side as viewed from the front of the
table.
The position of the final working place of the table
may determine which side is more convenient for
the stepper to be located.

Factors to consider include the run of the wires to U se com bo square to m ake rail

the drives, and the vulnerability of the stepper from parallel to the table bed. Bushings must be on rails.

being bumped by shop traffic.


With the square left at the same setting, use it to
Mark, drill and assemble these parts now. align the rail’s other end, and tighten it into place.

Tighten the screws incrementally to prevent the rail


Install Y Rails from being pulled out of alignment.

The rails are tied to the uprights the same way as The top rail is put into its clamps, but is left loose.
the X rails were mounted. It will be secured after the Z carriage is attached to
the bushings.
Bushings are slid onto the rails before they are tied
to the 1x4s. There are two bushings on the bottom Once the rails are installed, work can begin on the
rail and one on the top. Z carriage.

23
The photos below are for reference only. They
Z Carriage Overview show the completed unit, but it has to be on the
rails before it can be assembled.
The Z carriage is simply the 6 inch 1x4 slab, which
was cut earlier, with bushings and leadnuts tied to
both sides.

The bushings are attached with EMT straps as was


done on the X table.

Drywall screws fasten the leadnut blocks into


place. The leadnut system is the same as the one
used on the X axis.

The front of the Z axis carries the rails for the Z


movement. The rails slide in the four bushings that
are tied into place with the ½ inch EMT strap.

Front of Z axis.

Back of Z axis, with adjustable


pivot screws.

The bushings are tightened against the heads and


ends of screws, rather than resting directly on the
1x4.
These screws act as pivots, which make aligning
the bushings and rails much easier.

The pivot screws for the top front bushings can be


seen projecting out of the back of the Z axis in the
above image. These two screws can be turned to
C ompleted Z axis.
adjust the bushings’ distance from the 1x4 plate.

24
Z Carriage Front

The front of the Z axis 1x4 plate is drilled as


shown below.

Most of the holes pass completely through the


board. However, for clarity, they are only drawn on
the side to which they relate. Therefore, the holes
are laid out and drilled from both the front and
back of this board.

Z front with screws. T hese will be


installed later. D FB = D rilled from Back.

The 3/16 inch holes are darkly shaded in the left


drawing, and are for drywall screws that hold the
Y leadnut block.

These holes are


countersunk on the
front of this plate.
See photos.

The 3/32 inch holes


are unshaded, and
are pilots for short
wood screws.

These holes do not


Front side of Z plate. C SF = C ountersink on Front
need to go all of the
C SB = Countersink on Back. way through the
All of the darkly and lightly shaded holes are plate.
Z front with bushings. T he
drilled completely through the plate. bushings are shown for
To keep from losing reference; they are not installed at

position, it is easier
this time.
The 9/64 inch holes will receive flat head 8-32 x 1-
1/4 inch machine screws; the two adjustment to drill all of the
screws can be round head. holes on this side first, and then countersink them
before drilling the holes from the back side. (Next
The four 9/64 inch holes that are 1-1/8 inch from section)
the edges of the plate, are countersunk on the back
of this plate. The tails of their screws extend Drill and countersink these holes now. The four
through the face of the plate to hold the EMT 9/64 inch holes that are 1-1/8 inch from the edges
straps. See photos in right column. are countersunk on the back.

25
Z Carriage Back

The process for drilling the back is the same as the


front.

Z back with screws. Z back with bushings.


Bushings cannot be installed at
this time.

Install Screws

The screws are driven into the plate as shown in


the photos in the previous sections.

The seven screws that hold the EMT straps are 8-


32 x 1-1/4 inch flat head machine screws.
These screws are driven into the countersunk holes
so their heads are flush with the plate.

Their tails extend through the other side of the


plate.
They are threaded tightly into the 9/64 inch holes
Back of Z plate so they will not freewheel as their bushings are
adjusted. Nuts and washers hold the EMT straps
onto the tails.
The 9/64 inch holes are shaded, and will have flat
head 8-32 screws tightened into them. They have to All of the
be countersunk on the front side of the plate. bushings rest
on pivots.
The 3/32 inch holes are for small wood screws as Right image.
are used on the bottom front of the plate.
Small wood
Drill and countersink the holes now. screws serve as
the pivots for the
three back
bushings and
the two front
Z back top pivot screw. T his is
bottom bushings. shown for reference; the bushing
has to be on the rail when it is
installed.

26
These wood screws are driven so their heads extend Press EMT straps onto the bushings so the
1/16 to 1/8 inch from the plate. bushings will slide easily when the straps are
oriented as shown in the previous photo.
They should all be set to the same height. These
screws were the ones that came in the blister pack Slide the top rail’s bushing to a far end of the
with the angle brackets that will support the Z gantry so it is out of the way.
cross tie.
Any small screws Attach the bottom two bushings to the Z plate with
will work whether nuts and washers. Check that the Z plate is plumb
round or flat with the gantry.
head.
This can be done by eyeing the gap between the Z
The two front top plate and the gantry’s 1x4 sides.
bushings use 8- Absolute plumb is not critical, the Z axis’ vertical
32 x 1-1/4 inch travel can be adjusted later with the front bushings.
machine screws
for the pivots. Incrementally tighten the nuts against the EMT
Right photo. Z front top adjustment screw abuts strap while sliding the axis back and forth on the
bottom rail.
back of bushing.

These screws can It should slide smoothly when the nuts are
be flat or round head. The screws are driven tightened into place.
through the plate so their tails press against the
bottom of the bushings. The slightest offset will cause binding; the
The rails that slide through these front bushings bushings can be rocked on the pivot screws’ heads
will bind if out of alignment, and these machine to achieve alignment. It may be necessary to use a
screws permit fine tuning. pair of pliers to twist the bushings into a position
where they will ride well.
Drive the wood screws and machine screws into the
plate at this time.
The drywall screws for the leadnut block, as well
as the bushings and EMT straps, will be installed
later.

Install Z Plate

The Z plate is ready


to be attached to the
bushings that are
already on the rails.

Slide the bushings


from end to end on
the rails. It may be
necessary to rotate
them to a position
that offers the
smoothest motion.
Back view of Z attached to rails.
EM T straps on bushings.
Front view.

27
Occasionally a strap will have to be slightly bent to
allow alignment. Y Leadnut Assembly
It may be necessary to alter the height of the pivot
screw(s) or to place washer(s) between the Z plate The leadnut system on this axis is the same as is
and the EMT strap to achieve smooth action. used on the X axis. A block cut from a 2x4
supports a tee nut and clamping screws.
Working incrementally will show where the
misalignment exists. A 3 inch long
section of 2x4 has
After the bottom two bushings are in place and already been cut.
move well, the top bushing and rail are tightened Cut this block
into place. parallel with the
grain to 1-3/4
Note. To make alignment easier, only one bushing inches wide.
is used on the top. A fourth bushing here does not
add enough stability to justify the difficulty that Mark and drill the
aligning it entails. holes as shown in
the drawing
The top bushing is used to align the top rail. below.
Slide the Z plate to one end of the rails, and tighten
the top bushing into place while the rail is centered Drive two 8-32 x
between the two rail strap screws. 2 inch machine Leadnut support block cut from
2x4. Z plate is attached on the right
screws through side.
The rail does not have to be exactly centered the 9/64 inch
between the drywall screws, but it is important that holes so their threads protrude through the block.
there is adjustment room for later fine tuning. Above photo.
Tighten the rail into place at this end.

After the bushing and rail are tightened into place,


slide the Z plate to the other end of the gantry, and
tighten the other end of the rail into position.

The top rail should now be parallel with the bottom


rail.

Make sure the rails are straight. If bent, rotate


them so the bends run parallel to each other as was
done on the X axis.

Slide the Z plate from end to end and work out any
misalignment by adjusting both the top rail’s
support screws and the top bushing’s support nut.

This is an incremental process that may require


multiple end to end trips and adjustments to
achieve smooth action.

The leadnut components, next section, can be


installed when the axis rides with a minimum of
drag. Y leadnut support block.
Z plate will be attached on the right.

28
Cut a 1/4-20 threaded rod to 20 inches long and Use one of the Z plate’s drywall screw holes as a
slide it through one of the leadscrew holes in the guide, and drill a 3/32 inch hole into the block
sides of the gantry. while holding it in this position. Photo below.

Insert it through the block with the block positioned


as shown in the photo below.

Then slide the threaded rod through the hole in the


other side of the gantry.

D rilling pilot hole into block


through hole in Z plate.

Tighten a 1-5/8 inch drywall screw into the block


to hold it to the Z plate.
Check that the block is properly aligned, and drill
the second pilot hole. Tighten a drywall screw into
the hole.
Block with rod centered in hole.
Once the block is secure, remove the threaded rod
Position the block so the leadscrew is centered in from the block, and screw a tee nut onto the rod.
the block’s ½ inch hole when the leadscrew is The tee nut is on the side of the block with the
centered in the gantry’s ½ inch hole. machine screws’ threads.

The block should be centered width-ways on the Slide the rod


back of the Z plate. Photo below. through the block
and twist two nuts
and washers onto
it. Right photo.

Insert the rod


through the 1/4
inch hole in the
side of the gantry
and install two
more washers and
nuts. The nuts are
left loose at this
time.
N uts and washers

The stepper has to


sandwich the 1x4.

be installed before
Block is centered on 1x4. the leadnut can be adjusted. This is the next step.

29
The end nuts are threaded onto the screws so they
Y Stepper Installation are flush with the ends of the screws.

Before the stepper is installed, a 1/4 inch ID hose The nuts on the other side of the 1x4 are tightened
is attached to its shaft. against the 1x4. Then the nuts abutting the
The hose is 1 inch long and is held into place with stepper’s face are tightened against the stepper.
hose clamps, as was done for the X axis.
The leadscrew is inserted in the hose coupler and
Slide the hose onto the stepper so ½ inch remains clamped into place.
open, and clamp it to the shaft.
Place the second clamp on the hose, but leave it
loose. The leadnut can now be adjusted into position. This
is the same trial and error process that was done
The stepper is held to the side of the gantry with with the X axis.
three 10-32 or 10-24 x 2-1/2 inch machine screws.
These screws should be as large as can fit through Thread nuts and
the holes in the stepper since they carry the torque washers onto the
load. machine screws to
hold the tee nut.

Activate the
stepper and jog
the axis while
incrementally
tightening the nuts
to hold the leadnut
in place.

Y stepper attached to gantry with


When the axis
2-1/2 inch screws. moves smoothly, T ee nut fastened to block.

tighten the nuts on


the end of the leadscrew that sandwich the
gantry, as was done with the X axis.

Around an inch of threaded rod will extend from


the side of the gantry.
This can be cut off, or a knob for moving the axis
by hand, can be attached to it.

The knob can be a 1/4 inch bore “volume knob”


N uts are on very ends of screws.
from Radioshack, for example, or it can be a
The screws are inserted through the stepper, as homemade version similar to the hold down knobs
shown above, and nuts are threaded onto the shown on the web site.
screws so they loosely abut the face of the stepper.
The knob has to be balanced, or it will cause the
A second nut is threaded onto each screw along axis to rattle.
with a washer.
The three screws are then inserted through the three Work on the Z axis can begin when the Y axis
holes in the side of the gantry, and nuts with rides smoothly.
washers are attached to the ends.

30
Mark the
Template for Z Rails distance between
the rails’ centers
The Z axis rails are held into place with tension on a scrap piece
rods, and wooden blocks, which are at the top and of 1x4 or other
bottom of the axis. Photo below. material, right
photo, and drill
½ inch holes at
these marks.
Image below.

This block will


be used to
position the
shallow
depressions in Mark center of bushings with rails on
the top stepper scrap 1x4.
plate and bottom
spindle support.

These are
covered next.

T emplate.
D rill holes in block at marks.

Z Stepper Plate

The stepper for the


Z axis is supported
by a
5-1/2 inch long
Z rails, blocks and tension rods. section of 1x4 that
Recesses in the blocks support the rails. These is ripped to 2-3/8
recesses have to be the same distance apart to hold inches wide.
the rails parallel. Stepper on plate.

This equal spacing is accomplished with a simple


template.

Loosely attach the bushings in their EMT straps to


the face of the Z plate, and slide the 12 inch rails
into them.

Move the EMT straps so they are centered in their


Stepper plate, bottom view.

range of adjustment on their machine screws. The remaining piece is around 1 inch wide, and is
used for the bottom of the Z axis.
Tighten the EMT straps, with the bushings and This piece was cut to length when the 1x4 was
rails, into place. The nuts only have to be tight originally cut.
enough to hold position, this placement is It is ripped to width now; the cut does not have to
temporary. be clean.

31
Bottom view of Z stepper plate.

Z stepper plate. T he 1/2 inch recesses for the rails are shaded
and are 3 inches apart. T his will vary; use a template. A Forstner
bit will drill a
Holes are drilled as shown in the drawing above. cleaner hole. If one is
The four darkly shaded holes are 3/16 inch and are unavailable, take care to
for the machine screws that support the stepper. only drill a shallow
depression with a standard
The shaded ½ inch holes are drilled to around 1/16 ½ inch twist drill bit. A cheap Forstner bit, like
the one on the right, will
inch deep. These recesses support the ends of the Z be better than a twist
rails and should be drilled to the same depth. Mark and drill the holes drill.

and recesses at this time.


The distance between the recesses that is shown as
3 inches in the drawing will vary. The template is
used to transfer the actual distance in place of the Spindle Support
3 inches.
The bottom of the Z axis is made of the wood that
Take care to position the template so the recesses remained from ripping the stepper plate from the
will be equidistant from the sides. The measures in 1x4. This block will be around 1 inch wide
the above image can be drawn onto the wood, and depending on the blade that was used to cut it.
then, by looking through the holes in the template, Variation is not a problem.
the offsets can be centered by eye.

Spindle support block (Porter C able version) used at the


bottom of the Z axis.

The template is used to position the two rail


recesses so they will be the same distance apart as
U se tem plate to position rail recesses in
the recesses in the stepper plate.
stepper and spindle supports.
The recesses should be as close to the back edge of
It is important for the recesses to be the same this wood block as possible.
distance apart on the top and bottom plates, and to The holes for the threaded rod ties have to be in
be in line with the leadscrew hole and the 1/4 inch line with the recesses so tightening the rods will not
threaded rod holes. twist the assembly.

32
There are two versions of this block. One is for a altered from what is
Porter Cable 7301 trim router, and the other is for shown in these plans.
a Dremel.
The only difference is the holes in the center of the The rods are attached
block. to the bottom wooden
All three holes can be drilled in a single block. block with nuts and
washers.
Make this part now.
The nuts are
tightened enough to
compress the wood.
The nuts on the end
of the rods are flush
with the rods’ ends.

The angle brackets


Spindle support block. are oriented as shown
T he 3 inch distance between the recesses will vary; use the template. below and are
T he block above is for the Porter Cable trim router.
clamped into place
between nuts and
lock washers.
Z axis, rails and tension rods.
The angle brackets’
bottom legs are 3-1/2
inches from the
end of the
threaded rod
when the Porter
Spindle support block for D rem el Cable trim
router is used,
and 2-1/2 inches
Tension Rods when a Dremel
is used.
The top and bottom of the Z axis are tied together
with two tension rods that are made of 1/4-20
threaded rod cut to 14-1/2 inches long.

These threaded rod tensioners also support two 1


inch angle brackets that hold a cross tie. The cross Cut the threaded
tie holds the router-spindle upright. rods to length,
tightly attach
The angle brackets are held into place on the rods them to the
with nuts and lock washers. Right photo. bottom block
and adjust the Angles on threaded rod.

The angle brackets will vary based on the supplier. angle brackets D imension is for Porter C able 7301

It may be necessary to enlarge their holes for the into position.


threaded rod to fit.
Their size will also alter the positioning of the top It is easier to tighten the brackets into place when
of the router-spindle. Therefore, the bottom the cross tie is installed. This is addressed next.
attachment of the spindles may need to be slightly

33
Cross Tie Install Z Rails

The cross tie is made of a paint paddle or similarly The axis is now ready for assembly. The bushings
sized piece of wood, metal or plastic. Its primary have been loosely attached to the Z plate, the
purpose is to hold the router or Dremel upright. It threaded rods are tied to the bottom spindle plate,
also prevents the threaded rods from twisting as and the cross tie is installed.
they are being tightened into place.
Slide the 12 inch long rails into the bushings, and
This part is simply a paint paddle cut to 5-1/2 set them into the depressions in the bottom spindle
inches long with four 3/16 inch holes drilled in it. plate.
Slide the top stepper plate onto the two threaded
The cross tie is attached to the angle brackets with rods and align the rails into the depressions in this
8-32 x ½ inch machine screws with nuts and plate.
washers, as shown in the photos. Tightening this
cross tie into position before adjusting the nuts that Tighten the assembly together with nuts and
tie the top stepper plate to the assembly will keep washers on the top ends of the threaded rods.
the threaded rods from freewheeling. This will Only tighten the nuts enough to hold the rails in the
make adjustment much easier. Otherwise, even depressions. Final tightening will be done later
with the bottom nuts tightly sandwiching the before the stepper is installed.
bottom block, the rods may work loose.
The rail assembly should now easily slide in the
bushings while the bushings are still loose.

Turn the two top bushing adjustment-pivot screws


so they project the same distance from the front of
the Z plate as the bottom two pivot screws.

C ross tie made of paint paddle.

Cut and drill this piece now. Tightly attach it to the


angle brackets, and tighten the angle brackets into
place on the threaded rods. Adjust top bushing.

This will be a starting


place for further
adjustments.

Tighten the bushings


for one rail into place
while sliding the axis
up and down.
C ross tie.

34
This should be straightforward, and the rails
should slide easily. Install Z Stepper
Adjust the bushings as needed for smooth action on
this one side. The Z stepper is installed the same way as the Y
stepper was, except four rather than three machine
Tighten the other bottom bushing into place while screws are used.
moving the axis.
Tightening this third bushing may introduce too
much drag. The Z axis should be able to fall to the
bottom of its travel under its own weight.

Possible causes of drag include the entire axis


being slightly twisted, the rails being slightly bent
or out of parallel, and the bushings being twisted
out of line with the motion of the rails.

The entire Z axis can be twisted by grabbing the


top and bottom wooden blocks and wrenching them
into alignment. This aggressive action may be
necessary to slightly bend or pull the bushings and
their EMT straps into line. Z stepper tied to top of axis,
and hose clamps on leadscrew
The final top bushing can be tightened when the
axis moves well with the first three bushings Install a 1 inch long piece of hose with clamps on
tightened into place. the stepper’s shaft.
The top bushings may have to be moved toward or
away from the Z back plate to allow proper axis Insert the #10 x 2-1/2 inch screws through the
motion. stepper’s mounting holes, and thread on the nuts
This adjustment is done by turning the pivot screws and washers.
on which the top bushings rest. Put the machine screws through the four holes in
the top plate, twist on the four nuts so they are
When the axis moves well, the nuts on the top of flush with the screw ends, and then tighten the
the tension rods are slowly tightened into place remaining nuts against the board and stepper.
while checking for increased drag in the axis’ The nuts can be adjusted so the stepper is in line
movement. with the axis.

As with the other axes, it may be necessary to The leadscrew is connected to the stepper after the
incrementally work in circles from one bushing to leadnut is assembled and attached.
another to tune-out the cause of any drag.
Sometimes turning a rail a quarter of a turn, or
simply loosening and re-tightening a tension rod
Z Leadnut Assembly
can resolve the problem.
The leadnut assembly is similar to the ones on the
Again, a solution that works well is to rather
other axes. A tee nut is clamped to a block of wood
aggressively twist and turn the entire assembly in
with machine screws and nuts and washers.
the bushings while taking care not to apply so
much force as to damage the rails or EMT straps.
The wood block was cut to length when the lumber
was initially sawn. The 2-1/4 inch section is now
The axis is tuned well enough when the axis falls
cut parallel with the grain to 3/4 inch wide.
under its own weight.

35
Drill a pilot hole through an existing hole in the
leadnut block into the Z plate. Photo below.

Attach the block to the plate with a drywall screw


and washer. The wood may split if countersinking
is attempted.

Z leadnut support block with hardware.

D rill pilot holes for drywall screws with block centered


between screw heads in face of Z plate.
Z leadnut support block.

A finish washer looks


Holes are drilled as shown in the above drawing. better, but a flat
washer will work well
Two round head 8-32 x 1-1/4 inch machine screws enough.
are threaded through the block, and a tee nut,
which has had its tines bent or removed, is loosely Check that the block
attached in place with nuts and washers. is properly spaced;
drill the other pilot
The leadscrew is then threaded through the leadnut hole and install the
assembly. second screw.
The leadscrew is the 11-1/2 inch section of
threaded rod that was left over from cutting the X The axis is now held
leadscrew from the 36 inch rod. in place by the
leadscrew. Tighten
The leadscrew is attached to the stepper with the the leadnut into place
hose connector, and the clamps are tightened. as the leadscrew is
turned.
The leadscrew and nut assembly now hang from
the stepper. The stepper can be
activated at this time
Move the Z axis so the leadnut assembly is to help with the
between the heads of the drywall screws that hold alignment of the
the Y leadnut block to the Z plate. See photos. leadnut, and to test
the movement of the
Position the leadnut block on the Z plate so it is axis.
centered between the rails.
Z axis completed.

36
plumb with the
Spindle Supports table. Therefore, its
length may have
The trim router and/or Dremel are held in place to be changed from
with a band clamp that is made from plumbing that in the drawing.
strap.
This strap is attached to the paint paddle cross tie The correct length
with two flat head #6 or 8-32 x ½ inch machine can be found by
screws with washers under their heads. installing the
The flat head rather than round head screws are Dremel in the 3/4
needed to allow the router to better seat in the inch hole before
strap. The washers keep the screws from tearing cutting the wood to
through the strap. length, and then
aligning the Dremel
with the axis, and R outer attached to axis.
marking and cutting Spacer washers (circled) are
between the router and wood
the wood where it spindle support.
extends beyond the
back of the bottom block.

Band made of plumbing strap.

D rem el bottom support m ade of paint paddle


The strap for the Porter Cable trim router is 9-1/2
inches long; for the Dremel it is 7 inches. The Dremel’s threaded cap will have to be trimmed
to fit onto this bracket. Part of the rim can be filed
A quarter inch bolt and nut with washers tighten or sanded.
the band around the tool.
A 1/4-20 x 1 inch bolt is used with the Porter The paint paddle
Cable, and a 1/4-20 x 1-1/2 inch bolt is used with bracket is held into
the Dremel. place on the bottom
spindle plate with
The bottom of the Porter Cable 7301 is held into two 8-32 x 1-1/4 inch
place with a 1/4-20 x 1-1/2 inch bolt that threads machine screws
into the existing factory made hole in the base of with nuts and washers.
the router.
The router base will have to be rotated so the cord
and switch are properly located. This is explained
on page 43.

Washers may need to be installed between the


router and the wooden axis base to hold the router
vertical to the work table bed. Above right photo.
The bottom of the Dremel is held into place with a
section of paint paddle that is cut and drilled as
shown in the drawing.
This piece should be sized to hold the Dremel
D rem el bottom bracket. D rem el attachment.

37
When only a Dremel will be used on this machine,
this bottom bracket can be glued into place;
otherwise, over time it will work loose from
vibrations.

Note: The Porter Cable 7301 trim router was W rap m etal around screwdriver.

chosen because it is easy to mount, and can be


purchased without any attachments.

The router or Dremel can be installed at this time.

Wire Protection

The wires need to be kept out of harm’s way. The


H ole can be made with a paper punch.
drives and steppers can be damaged when
connections are cut or shorted. Therefore, it is
important to route the wires so they are secure and The router-spindle wire can be tied to the top of the
protected. threaded rod, photo in left column, and the
stepper’s cable can be tied to the end of the gantry,
The wires for the Z stepper and router should be as shown below.
anchored in a manner that permits them to flex
without fatiguing.

The table is small so the wires do not need to be


attached to cable-chains or other guides. They can
simply be attached to the axes with cable clips.

Stepper wire clamped to


top of gantry side.

The steppers on the X and Y axes are fixed, so


their wires are less prone to being damaged.
However, a dropped tool or board can pull the
wires from the drives or steppers, so these wires
Spindle wire clamped to top
of threaded rod.
should be anchored as well.

Small cable clips can be made of thin metal cut The mechanical portion of the table is now
from drink cans or similar. complete. Hold-down clamps can be made as
shown on the website, or the stock can be held to
The metal is crimped around a shaft to form a the table with C-clamps.
hollow for the wire. It is then trimmed and hole
punched. The clips are held into place with hex- The steppers will have to be tuned; information
washer-head sheet metal screws or similar. follows.

38
This requires the work to be aligned with the long
Axis Names axis of the table, which means the longer side of
the table is the front in terms of the CAD work.
The axes in these plans are named in a way that is
logical for construction, but they can be renamed
when the software is set-up. On this 13 x 13 inch machine, the X and Y are the
same length, so there is no advantage in having the
There are no hard and fast rules; the axes can be X axis as the table bed axis.
named in a way that makes the machine the most
intuitive to use, and this will vary among builders. The axes names on mills, and thus their controlling
software, tend to orient the X motion as the left to
The complete CNC process is easier when all right movement as one looks straight at the spindle.
elements, the CAD, CAM, controller and machine Therefore, exchanging the X and Y axis names on
are all are oriented the same way. Otherwise, it is this machine will be consistent when reading the
challenging to continually rotate the mental map of Mach manual, for example.
the process between steps.
Another consideration is simply the location of the
machine’s computer monitor. It is much easier to
The default layout for most CAD software has the operate the machine when the monitor is oriented
X axis oriented as right-left (east-west), Y north- with the machine’s axes, since the machine will
south, and Z up and down, and with the origin, move in the same direction as the images on the
0,0,0, at the lower left hand corner. computer monitor move.

The CAM software can use the same orientation. It is dangerously easy to jog the axes in the wrong
However, this can and frequently does vary for direction when the keyboard and monitor are not
both the CAD and CAM processes. aligned with the motion of the machine.

Again, do what is the most intuitive. The machine


The Z axis is usually the up and down axis with up should match the body and mind’s autopilot.
motion being positive and down being negative.
The zero point, the Z origin, can be anywhere. It The controlling software can easily be reconfigured
can be set as the table bed, the bottom of the stock, should the initial set-up be awkward.
the bottom of the cut, or the top of the stock,
among anything else.
This can be altered with each run to fit the g-code Software Settings, Introduction
and the stock.
The settings in the software have to match the
components of the machine.
Switch X and Y Axis Names
Values include the Steps per Unit of the axis, the
It may be preferable to exchange the X and Y axes Speed or Velocity, and the Acceleration.
names on this machine, since the two axes are the
same length. The factors that determine the Steps per Unit
include the steps per revolution of the stepper, the
On longer machines it can be practical to make the micro-stepping that is set on the drive, and the
X axis the longer axis since signs, among other number of turns per inch of the leadscrew.
projects, tend to be wider-longer than they are high.
The stepper’s documentation will give the number
of steps per revolution; it is usually 200.

39
The micro-stepping value is set on the drives, and This practice is not recommended by some drive
will be recommended by the drive supplier. suppliers, and their documentation should be
followed.
The leadscrew’s turns per inch is given by the
supplier, or the value can easily be derived. On this Micro-stepping values can range from 2 to 16 or
machine 1/4-20 All Thread rod is usually used. It more, and are often set by altering jumpers on the
has 20 threads and turns per inch as its name drive boards.
indicates.

It is better to initially use the values recommended


Steps per Revolution, Stepper by the drive suppliers. The values can be changed
later if there are problems with noisy or uneven
A stepper is designed to move one step with each stepper operation.
step signal that is sent by the drive. The alterations are a trial and error process.
The number of steps required for the stepper’s
shaft to turn one complete revolution is usually
200. The micro-stepping values will be expressed as
The stepper’s manufacturer will express this as a fractions or as whole numbers; e.g. 1/8 micro-
steps per revolution value, 200, or as the number of stepping can also be expressed as 8 micro-steps.
degrees turned per step, 1.8° For each of the 200 native steps, 8 micro-steps are
sent to the stepper; each native step is divided into
This 1.8 degrees is derived by dividing the number eighths.
of degrees in one revolution, 360, by the number of
steps required to turn one revolution, 200. With a 200 step per revolution stepper, the number
360°/200 = 1.8° of steps per revolution with 8 micro-stepping
would be 200 multiplied by 8 = 1600 steps per
Likewise, the 200 steps per revolution can be revolution.
derived by dividing 360° per revolution by 1.8° per
step. 360°/1.8° = 200 This value will be used to determine the number of
Steps per Unit the axis will move.
This previous information is mentioned for
background, and will probably not have to be
calculated. Leadscrews

HobbyCNC and Xylotex steppers are 200 steps per The Steps per Unit value that is entered into the
revolution at this writing, and this is unlikely to software’s motor configuration setup also depends
change since 200 is a common value. on the turns per inch of the leadscrews.

This value is the same as the thread count for


Micro-Stepping standard hardware store single start threaded rod.
The name of this rod includes the diameter and
The stepper’s 200 steps can be divided into smaller thread count per inch, such as 1/4-20 or 5/16-18.
steps, micro-steps, by the drives and software. This A 20 thread per inch rod will have to turn 20 times
micro-stepping is used to give smoother stepper to move the axis one inch.
operation.
Acme rod is available in a variety of threads per
Micro-stepping may also be used to increase inch, starts, and turns per inch.
resolution, to give more steps per inch, and thus
supposedly better accuracy.

40
Starts and Turns per Inch Determining Steps per Unit (Inch)

A basic threaded rod has one start, single start, The Steps per Unit value that is entered into the
which means one thread winds down the rod. Its motor setup dialogue box is the native resolution of
turns per inch and threads per inch are the same. the stepper, multiplied by the micro-stepping value
as a whole number, multiplied by the turns per inch
A two start rod has two separate parallel threads of the leadscrew.
that wind down the rod.
A multicolor barber pole or candy cane are From the previous examples.
examples of multi-start threads. The red thread and 200 steps per revolution stepper
blue thread wind down the shaft together, but they 8 micro-stepping
are separate threads. 20 turns per inch leadscrew.

A 2 start leadscrew can have 10 threads per inch, 200 x 8 x 20 = 32000 Steps per Inch
for example, but will only have to turn 5 times to
move the axis one inch. It is a 5 turn per inch This is the value that is entered into the software’s
leadscrew. motor setup box for each axis.

Resolution

Resolution is the distance the machine moves with


each step. It is simply the reciprocal of the Steps
per Unit.
5 T urns per Inch - 2 Start
From the previous example:
T hreads per Inch and T urns per Inch. The reciprocal of 32000 is 1/32000

The turns per inch is determined by dividing the 1÷ 32000 steps per inch = 0.00003125 inch per
threads per inch by the number of separate threads step
or starts.
This is the smallest distance the axis with this
All of these values are usually given by the leadscrew and micro-stepping can be commanded
supplier, and they will not have to be calculated. to move.

This tiny value per step is smaller than the machine


An advantage with a multi-start leadscrew is it can is capable of physically holding since it is made of
move an axis faster without having to turn as inexpensive components.
rapidly. This reduces leadscrew whipping, and Resolution less than 1 thousandth of an inch is
permits a slower stepper to move the axis faster. unlikely to improve the performance of this
machine.
A variety of leadscrews are available. It is
important to check that the properly sized leadnut
is available when choosing the leadscrew. A leadscrew with 2 turns per inch with the previous
Again, this machine as described in these plans stepper, and no micro-stepping will give:
uses 1/4-20 All Thread but builders report good
results with 3/8 inch Acme with anti-backlash 200 x 1 x 2 = 400 steps per inch, and a resolution
leadnuts. of 2.5 thousandths of an inch. 1/400 = 0.0025

41
This value is still in the range of the machine’s The axis can be expected to move at a speed that is
expected tolerance, so this configuration could be the rotations per minute of the stepper, around 500
used without limiting the machine’s accuracy. rpm, divided by the turns per inch of the leadscrew.
Note that on this smaller machine the steppers are
There is a wide range of options for the leadscrew capable of turning significantly faster than 500 rpm
and micro-stepping values. since the loads are light.
These can be altered to give the best performance
and will vary with the software, drive, each axis, For example: A 5 turn per inch leadscrew will give
stepper, and computer. an axis speed of around 100 inches per minute
(500 rpm ÷ 5 tpi = 100 ipm)
Expressed as inches per second this is
Note that some software uses Resolution rather 100 ipm ÷ 60 seconds per minute = 1.67 ips.
than Steps per Unit in its motor setup; again both
are derived the same way, one is simply the The controlling software such as Mach may use an
reciprocal of the other. inch per second rather than an inch per minute
value, so speeds of less than 60 ipm will be in
values less than one.
Speed (Velocity) and Acceleration 30 ipm will be 0.5 ips, for example.

These two values also have to be set in the


software’s motor setup. With the HobbyCNC 200 oz. in. stepper and drive
Velocity is how fast the axis moves in inches or package, an initial value of 0.4 inches per second
mm per minute or second. The units that are used has proven to be a good starting point.
depend on the software.
The velocity is analogous to a highway’s speed This gives a speed of 24 ipm; once the table is
limit. The axis will never exceed the set speed. tuned this value can be increased. The same initial
value worked well for the Xylotex 269 oz.in.
Acceleration is the rate at which the axis achieves system.
the set velocity. High acceleration is analogous to
a sports car, while low acceleration is a truck. During machine tuning it is better to set the speed
They both achieve the speed limit, but at different well below half the expected final speed.
rates.

Steppers deliver the most torque at lower speeds as


Extremely slow acceleration will command the axis shown in the generic graph below.
to slowly ramp up to speed, while high acceleration
will cause the table to snap around, perhaps
violently.
With the smaller steppers, the axis will usually
stall before aggressive acceleration will cause
damage to the machine. However, there is little to
be gained with high acceleration on this machine.
Keeping the software’s acceleration slider at the
lower middle of the scale has served well.
Stepper torque decreases with speed.

The speed or velocity is initially set low, and it is When tuning the machine this higher power, but
increased incrementally, and by trial and error low speed, is useful for pushing the axis through
during the final tuning. rough spots while the axis is being aligned. With

42
the velocity set too high, the axis will frequently and switch point in the desired direction, and the
stall, and it will be difficult to find each problem 1/4 inch bolt hole in the router’s base faces the
area. spindle plate. Reinstall and tighten the four screws.
The velocity can be incrementally increased as
problems are addressed. Do not pull downward on the base, or the armature
The final velocity is set by backing off of the speed will be pulled from the brushes.
at which the axis stalls.
Should this happen, the top can be removed to
It is better to not push the upper limits of the access the brush assembly.
velocity in the settings. A stalled stepper will ruin
a job.
Leadscrew to Stepper Coupler

A prototype of this table uses the HobbyCNC 200 The leadscrews can be attached to the steppers
oz.in. system and is able to rapid at 60 inches per with either homemade couplings, or commercially
minute (ipm). The 305 oz.in. system performs produced units.
similarly on this machine. The larger steppers
perform better than the 200s on the other machines The homemade system consists
in the Solsylva plans. of a 1 inch piece of 1/4 inch ID
fuel line, or similar hose,
which is clamped to the
Experiment with the speed and acceleration to find leadscrew and stepper with H ose and clam p
what best suits the machine. Values can be hose clamps. coupler.
different for each axis. It is a trial and error
process. This system works well
with smaller
Once everything is well adjusted and moves leadscrews
smoothly, Loctite Green thread-locker can be including 1/4
applied to the nuts on the machine screws to and 5/16 inch
prevent parts from vibrating free. Loctite Green is diameters. H ose with hose clamp coupler
preferred because it can be applied after assembly The hose on stepper.

and permits later alterations without the need of system works


heat. fair with 3/8 inch leadscrews, bit is difficult to fit
and align with larger leadscrews.

Porter Cable 7301 The problem with larger screws


is an offset may develop as the
The base of the router can be hose clamps are tightened. It is
rotated so it will align with the challenging to keep the stepper
spindle plate. shaft and a large leadscrew
Otherwise the cord or switch aligned.
This lack of alignment will
H ose clam p
will abut the spindle plate and coupler.
prevent access to the 1/4 inch increase drag, which will cause
threaded hole in the router’s the stepper to stall easily, and
base. the axis will not be able to move rapidly.

Remove the four screws from The leadscrew and stepper shaft should abut each
the base as shown. other with the hose coupling. This will lessen the
Rotate the base so the cord
R emove screws and
twisting of the hose and reduce backlash.
rotate base.

43
The upside to the hose clamp system is its price
and availability, since the parts are from hardware
stores.

The commercially made couplers are easy to use; C om mercially


they make the stepper to leadscrew alignment a made couplers.
C oupler with leadscrew and stepper.

non-issue, and they are available in a variety of


sizes. These commercially made coupling clamps are
These can often be purchased from the leadnut or better, but when cost is a factor, the hose system
leadscrew supplier. The couplers are machined for can serve well.
specific screw threads and are not interchangeable,
unlike the homemade hose clamps.

Front view of completed table. Back view

44
Materials

Notes Material Quantity Where/ How Used


1x4 x 8 ft. 1 Frame
2x4 x 8 ft. 1 Frame
15 x 15 x 3/4" board 1 Table: Can be plywood, M D F, or cutting
board plastic of different thickness.

Bronze bushings ½ inch ID by 5/8 inch or 11 4 for X Slides for all axes
11/16 inch OD by 1-1/8 long 3 for Y
4 for Z
½" Copper Couplers if 5/8" OD One per Bushings slide into copper coupler
Bushings are used Bushing so they fit tightly in EMT clamp.
½" steel rod 3 @ 3' 2 @ 24" for X
9 ft. total 2 @ 18" for Y
Can be cold rolled, hot rolled or plated 2 @ 12" for Z
½" EMT (Electrical Metallic Tubing) 11 Support bushings
Single Hole Electrical Conduit Strap-Clamp
#8-32 x ½" Round Head Machine Screws 2 Spindle tie, wood to metal angle
#8-32 x ½" Flat Head Machine Screws 2 Spindle tie-plumbing strap to wood
#8-32 x 1-1/4" Flat Head Machine Screws 11 One for each EMT bushing mount
#8-32 x 1-1/4" Round Head Machine Screws 9 3 X stepper mount
2 Top Z bushing adjust
2 Z leadnut
2 Z Dremel tie
#8-32 x 2" Round Head Machine Screws 4 2 X leadnut
2 Y leadnut
#8-32 Nuts 26 11 for bushing mounts
3 for X stepper
2 for X leadnut
2 for Y leadnut
2 for Z leadnut
2 for Z spindle tie wood to angle
2 for Z spindle strap to wood
2 for Z Dremel tie
#8 or #10 Washers 62 2 X leadnut
2 Y leadnut
2 Z leadnut
16 X and Y rail ties
4 Spindle strap
4 Cross tie
11 One per bushing mount
6 Y stepper mount
8 Z stepper mount
3 X stepper mount
4 Dremel mount
#10 Finish washers 2 Z leadnut support

45
Notes Material Quantity Where/ How Used
#10-24 or 32 x 2-1/2 inch machine screws 7 4 for Z stepper mount
3 for Y stepper mount
#10-24 or 32 Nuts for above Machine Screws 21 9 for Y Stepper mount
12 for Z Stepper mount
1/4-20 Threaded Rod 8' 24.5" X leadscrew
(3 @ 36") 20" Y leadscrew
11.5" Z lead screw
2 @ 14" Z ties
4 @ 3" Hold downs
1/4-20 Nuts 20 4 X leadscrew
4 Y leadscrew
10 Z threaded rod ties
1 Spindle mount
1 Cable tie
1/4-20 Tee Nuts 7 3 One for each leadnut
4 Hold downs
1/4-20 x 1" Bolt 1 Spindle (Porter Cable) mount strap
1/4-20 x 1-1/2" Bolt 2 1 Spindle mount (Porter Cable)
1 Spindle mount strap (Dremel)
1/4" Washers 32 4 X leadscrew
4 Y leadscrew
6 Z threaded rod ties
4 Spindle mount
8 Tie downs on table under knobs
6 Leadnut clamps
(may be unnecessary)
1/4" Lock Washers 4 Spindle mount cross tie brackets
One Inch Metal Right Angle Brackets 2 Cross tie spindle supports
Screws from Package of 5 3 for Y Pivot point for bushings
One Inch Metal Right Angle Brackets 2 for Z Pivot point for bushings
1" Drywall Screws 16 Rail supports X and Y axis
1-/5/8" Drywall Screws 22 4 X front to sides
4 Y sides to X sides
4 Y bottom brace to Y sides
4 Y sides to Y top brace
2 X leadnut
2 Y leadnut
2 Z leadnut
2-1/2" Decking Screws 8 4 X back to sides
4 X sides to Y bottom brace
#6 x ½" Sheet Metal Screws 4 Cable ties
#4 Hose Clamps 6 Stepper to leadscrew connection
1/4" ID Automobile Fuel Line or Hose 3" Stepper to leadscrew connection
Hanger Strap (Plumber’s Tape) 3/4" Wide 2' 12 inches for rail support ties
~10 inches for router mount
Thin Aluminum 4 sq. in. Cable ties (metal from drink can)
Paint Paddle 1 Cross tie and Dremel support
Wood Glue 1 Bottle Used on wood - wood connections
Non Hardening Thread Locker 1 Tube Used on all hardware
(Loctite - Green)
CNC Router Plans
Plans for a 10 x 9 Inch
Fixed Gantry Machine

David Steele
NOTICE: That which makes CNC machines useful also makes them
dangerous; they move without direct human control.
A CNC table MUST have an easily accessible Emergency Stop button.
The table must be in a safe location where it is inaccessible to children
and unauthorized users; these are not toys, even a small machine can
inflict serious injury. You, the user of these plans, assume all liability
and responsibility for the construction process, and the product you
create.
Do not use these plans if these conditions of use are unacceptable to you.

Copyright © 2011 David K. Steele

David Steele is the copyright owner of these plans. In consideration for


payment, David Steele grants a licence to use the plans for the purpose
of building a machine for personal use.
The licence is not assignable.
Contents

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Y Table Frame Axis


Overview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Y Rails Support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Y Table Frame and Bed . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Y Front End Board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Y Table Bed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Y Front, End Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
X Gantry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Y Stepper End Board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Z Carriage and Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Y Stepper Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Z Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Y Stepper End Template . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Z Rail Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Y Table Bed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Y Table Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Materials
Y Leadnut Support Block . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Materials, Simple List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
X Gantry Axis
Materials, Detailed List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Purchasing Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 X Gantry End Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Machine Screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 X Gantry Stepper End Template . . . . . . 33
Flat Head Machine Screws . . . . . . . . . . 12 X Gantry Leadscrew End Template . . . . 34
#10 Washers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 X Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
5/16-18 Tee Nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Z Carriage Axis
Knobs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Threaded Rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Z Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Drywall Screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Z Sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

1/2 Inch Black Iron Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Z Stepper Side Template . . . . . . . . . . . 37


Wood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Z Leadscrew Side Template . . . . . . . . . 38

Wood Cut List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Z Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39


Threaded Rod and Pipe Cut List . . . . . . 16 Z Top Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Aluminum Angle Z Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41


Bearing Truck Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Z Bottom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Band Strap Anchor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Z Bottom Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42


Z Stepper Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Z Stepper Plate Templates . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Cut and Drill Wood Z Router Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Using the Templates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Z Router Mount Template . . . . . . . . . . 46
Contents Continued

Assemble Parts Z Carriage Axis


Y Table Frame Axis Z Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Assemble Y Axis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Attach Z Sides To Z Back . . . . . . . . . . 66
Y Rail Support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Install Z Trucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Attach Y Rail Supports . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Install Z Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Install Y Stepper End Board . . . . . . . . . 50 Assemble Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Install Y Front End Plate . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Install Z Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Assemble Y Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Install X Trucks and Z Bottom . . . . . . . 71
Install Y Compression Rod . . . . . . . . . . 54 Install Carriage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Install Y Leadnut Block . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Steppers, Leadscrews and Router
Install Y Leadscrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Install Leadscrews and Steppers . . . . . . 75
Install Y Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Z Leadscrew and Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Adjust Y Leadnut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
X Leadscrew and Stepper . . . . . . . . . . . 76
X Gantry Axis Install Router . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
X Gantry Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Square Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Attach X Beam to Ends . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Trim Table Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Attach X Gantry to Y Frame . . . . . . . . 65 Stepper Setup and Performance . . . . . . 82
Steps per Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Speed and Torque . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Acme Upgrade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Introduction Plans and Building Sequence

This machine was made to meet the need in These plans are sequenced in the order of the
this shop for a small, simple and inexpensive building process.
machine that could test g-codes for aluminum First is an overview of the three axes and their
prototypes. components.
This is followed by both a simple and a
The cost of the 10x9 was kept low, and the detailed materials list.
construction time was reduced, by using off Next are directions with templates for cutting
the shelf stock with little waste. and drilling the home center stock.
The rails are conduit or pipe, the leadscrews The directions for assembling the components
can be threaded rod, the leadnuts can be tee of each axis follow.
nuts, and the bearings are 608 bearings, which Next are directions for the final assembly of
are sold as skate bearings. the axes into a completed machine.

The fixed gantry design is solid and simple. When the table is to be upgraded from All
The machine’s rigidity is maintained by Thread to Acme rod, the Acme Upgrade page
keeping the machine small, by using solid at the end of the manual should be reviewed
wood rather than MDF, and by tensioning all before buying materials. The threaded rod,
bearings against their rails. bearing, clamp, hose and tee nut counts will
change with the upgrade.
The machine is designed to only require a few
tools to build, and its construction is Read, or at least browse, through the plans
sequenced to be straightforward. before beginning work. There are hundreds of
captioned photos that describe the building
process. Looking over these ahead of time will
add clarity.

A dedicated work space with quality tools will


help to make this an enjoyable project.

Good Luck!

1
Overview

The machine consists of three axes.


These are the Y table frame and bed, the X gantry,
and the Z carriage and rails.

The machine is made of 1x4 and 1x6 boards that are


cut to length, drilled and assembled.

Completed machine.

Table Frame and Bed

The frame is made of standard sized 1x4 stock, and


the top of the table bed is cut from a 1x6.

The rails are 1/2 inch ID (Inside Diameter) black


iron pipe, galvanized pipe, or rigid electrical
conduit. The pipes are held in place with EMT
clamps or metal plumber’s tape.

The wooden components are held together with 1- Y table frame and bed.
5/8 inch drywall screws and glue.

The stepper is attached to the table frame with 3


inch long machine screws.

The Y leadscrew spans the front and back 1x4


plates, and is supported near the stepper by a pair of
608 bearings, which are also sold as skate bearings.

Y table frame.

2
Y Table Bed

The Y table bed is a section of 1x6 that is glued and


screwed to two pieces of 1x4.

The 1x4s hold the bearing trucks that ride the Y


pipe rails.
The trucks are made of 608 bearings that are
attached to aluminum angle.

The angle is 1/8 x 3/4 x 3/4 inch, and is sold in Y table bed.
home centers.
The angle, like the pipe rails, can be cut by hand
with a hacksaw.

A compression rod, middle image, presses the


bearings into the rails by pushing the 1x4 legs apart.

The Y leadnut assembly consists of a tee nut that is


connected to a wood block that is machine screwed
to the Y top.
Oversized connection holes in the components
permit adjustments for proper leadscrew to leadnut
alignment.

Y compression rod spans the legs.

Bottom of Y bed showing tee nut.

3
X Gantry

The gantry beam is made of two 1x6 boards that


are screwed and glued together.

Its pipe rail system is the same as the Y table


frame’s with 1/2 inch pipe that is held with EMT
clamps.

The vertical end plates are also made of 1x6


boards. They support the beam, the stepper, and
the leadscrew.

The X gantry assembly is screwed and glued to


X gantry beam, end plates, leadscrew and stepper.
the Y table frame.

Gantry beam with pipe rails. Gantry ends.

4
Carriage and Z Rails

The carriage is made of 1x4 and 1x6, and the Z rail assembly is made
of sections of 1x4 and black iron pipe.

Z Carriage

The Z carriage supports the X and Z bearing trucks.


The bearing trucks are the same as the Y trucks, except the aluminum
angles’ lengths are different.

The X bearings are on the back of the carriage, and they ride the
gantry rails. The X bearings are tightened against the rails by a tension
rod that spans the carriage’s top and bottom plates. Middle image
below.

The Z bearings are in the front of the carriage, and they support the Z
rail assembly.
The sides of the carriage are pulled against the trucks and rails with a
pair of tension rods that extend through the two sides.

The X leadnut is attached to the side of the carriage, and the Z leadnut
is attached to the top of the carriage.
The leadnut system on these axes is the same as the one used on the Y
Z carriage and rails.
axis. Machine screws with washers hold tee nuts to the wooden
components.

Stepper side of carriage. Carriage back. Leadnut side of carriage.

5
Z Rail Assembly

The Z rail assembly holds the Z stepper and the trim router.

The wooden components are cut from 1x4 stock, and the pipe rails, like all
the other rails, are 1/2 inch ID (Inside Diameter) black iron pipe or similar.

The assembly is held together with threaded tension rods that pass through
the pipe rails and clamp the wooden blocks into place.

Z rails with stepper. Router attached to rails. Z pipe rails, back.

The stepper is held to the rail top plate with 3 inch long machine screws. Bearings near the stepper
mount hold the leadscrew into place.

The router is tied to the bottom block with a 1/4-20 x 2 inch bolt that threads into the router’s base.
The threaded hole for this bolt is already machined into the DeWalt and Porter-Cable trim routers for
their factory made attachments.

The website’s Spindle page gives directions on rotating the trim router’s base so it can be attached
to the Z axis’ bottom block.

The body of the router is tied to the rails with a strap that is made of a band clamp or metal plumbing
tape. An aluminum angle anchor prevents the router’s strap from pulling through the rails.

6
Materials, Simple List

Notes Quantity Size Part Might Buy


15 5/16-18 Nuts
5 5/16-18 Tee Nuts
2 5/16 Washers
53 inches 5/16-18 Threaded Rod 2 @ 36 inches.

13 1/4-20 Nuts
20 1/4 Washers
1 1/4-20 x 3/4 Bolt
1 1/4-20 x 1 Bolt
1 1/4-20 x 2 Bolt
36 inches 1/4-20 Threaded Rod

109 #10-24 Nuts


126 #10 Washers
2 #10-24 x 3/4 Round Head Machine Screw See notes
22 #10-24 x 1 Round Head Machine Screw
6 #10-24 x 1-1/4 Round Head Machine Screw
12 #10-24 x 1-1/2 Flat Head Machine Screw
13 #10-24 x 3 Round Head Machine Screw See notes
27 inches #10-24 Threaded Rod 1 @ 36 inches

72 1-5/8 Drywall Screw 1 pound box


12 #8 Finish Washers Optional
36 inches 1/8 x 3/4 x 3/4 Aluminum Angle

94 inches 1/2 inch ID Black Iron Pipe 10 foot length


4 inches 1/4 inch ID Fuel Line
6 #4 Hose Clamp
1 4 inch diameter Band Clamp See note below
8 1/2 inch EMT Two Hole Clamps

1 Small Bottle Carpenter’s Wood Glue


12 feet 1x4 Wood Board 2 @ 8 feet
7 feet 1x6 Wood Board 1 @ 8 feet

1 Tube Loctite Green Thread Locker


30 608 (22x8mm) Skate Bearings

Note: One roll of plumbing hanger tape can replace the 1/2 inch EMT clamps and band clamp.

7
Materials, Detailed List

Notes Quantity Size Part Might Buy


15 5/16-18 Nuts
3 per leadscrew (9)
4 Y compression rod
2 for optional knobs

5 5/16-18 Tee Nuts


3 for leadnuts
2 for optional knobs

2 5/16 Washers
2 Y compression rod

53 inches 5/16-18 Threaded Rod 2 @ 36 inches.


6 inches Y compression rod
7 inches Z leadscrew
2 @ 20 inches for X and Y leadscrews (40)

13 1/4-20 Nuts
6 Z rails
1 Cable clamp on Z rail
4 Router cradle
1 Router band anchor
1 Router band strap

20 1/4 Washers
4 Z rails
2 Z cable clamp
2 on each leadnut support screw (6)
2 Y leadnut block
1 Router mount on 2 inch bolt
2 Router cradle
2 Router band strap
1 Router aluminum angle anchor

8
1 1/4-20 x 3/4 Bolt for Anchor Angle
1 1/4-20 x 1 Bolt for Router Band Strap
1 1/4-20 x 2 Bolt for Router Mount

36 inches 1/4-20 Threaded Rod


2 @ 17-1/4 Z rails (34.5)
1.5 cradle

109 #10-24 Nuts


2/ truck bearing, 24 bearings (48)
2/ truck for flat head screws (12)
2/ Z tension rod (6)
2/ X tension rod (2)
2/ leadnut (6)
2 for Y leadnut block (2)
3/ stepper mounting screw, 11 screws (33)

126 #10 Washers


2/ truck bearing (48)
2/ truck mount, on flat head screws (12)
2/ leadnut (6)
2 Y leadnut block (2)
2/ Z tension rod (6)
2 X tension rod (2)
2/ EMT clamp (16)
2/ stepper screw, 11 screws (22)
Y rail support boards. Can be finish washers (8)
X gantry beam. Can be finish washers (4)

2 #10-24 x 3/4 Round Head Machine Screw See notes


2 Required for Z bottom truck bearings
All other bearing axles can be 3/4 or 1 inch

22 #10-24 x 1 Round Head Machine Screw


8 X trucks
8 Y trucks
6 Z trucks

9
6 #10-24 x 1-1/4 Round Head Machine Screw
2 per leadnut (6)

12 #10-24 x 1-1/2 Flat Head Machine Screw


2 per each truck (12)

13 #10-24 x 3 Round Head Machine Screw See notes


3 Y stepper mount
4 X stepper mount
4 Z stepper mount
2 Y leadnut block

27 inches #10-24 Threaded Rod 1 @ 36 inches


10-1/2 X tension rod
2 @ 5-1/2 Z truck tension rods (11)
5-1/2 Z bottom tension rod

72 1-5/8 Drywall Screw 1 pound box


8 Y rail support tops
16 Y rail support ends
8 Attach X gantry to Y frame
8 Y Tie EMT clamps to Y rail supports
4 Y table bed to table legs
6 Tie X gantry beam to X ends
4 Tie Gantry beam together
8 Tie EMT clamps to gantry
4 Tie Z sides to Z back
2 Tie Z sides to Z bottom
4 Tie Z top to carriage body

12 #8 Finish Washers Optional


Use with screws that tie rail supports together

36 inches 1/8 x 3/4 x 3/4 Aluminum Angle


2@ 4-1/8 X trucks (8-1/4)
2@ 5-1/2 Y trucks (11)
2@ 7-1/2 Z trucks (15)
1@ ~1-3/4 Z router band anchor

10
~94 inches 1/2 inch ID Black Iron Pipe 10 foot length
4@ 15-7/8 for X and Y pipe rails
2@15 for Z rails

~4 inches 1/4 inch ID Fuel Line


Tie leadscrews to steppers, 3 @ ~1-1/4 inch each

6 #4 Hose Clamp
Tie stepper to leadscrew. 2 per leadscrew

1 4 inch diameter Band Clamp See note below


Ties trim router to Z rails

8 1/2 inch EMT Clamps


2 per X and Y pipe rail. Tie rails to boards

1 Small Bottle Carpenter’s Wood Glue


Glue wooden components together

12 feet 1x4 Wood Board. See wood section 2 @ 8 feet


7 feet 1x6 Wood Board 1 @ 8 feet

1 Tube Loctite Green, Thread Locker


Use to lock nuts into place

30 608 (22x8mm) Skate Bearings


2 per leadscrew (6)
4 for each truck (24)

Note: One roll of plumbing hanger tape


can replace the 1/2 inch EMT clamps and
the 4 inch band clamp.

For the router’s mounting strap, the


hanger tape is easier to use than a four
inch band clamp. Near right image.
See page 77 before purchasing a band
clamp.
Router band clamp 1/2 inch EMT clamps and
made of plumbing plumbing tape.
hanger tape.

11
Using the smaller diameter #8 screws to hold
Purchasing Notes the leadnuts will require smaller 9/64 inch
holes where the screws are threaded into the
This information addresses alternatives to the wood for the leadnut supports. The holes in
sizes and dimensions listed, and gives reasons the plans are sized for #10 and are listed as
for the sizes that are used. 5/32 inch.

Machine Screws Flat Head Machine Screws

The #10-24 thread size is used everywhere to These are used to hold the aluminum bearing
keep the parts inventory simple. Also, a lot of truck angles to the wood.
nuts are required, and buying one size in bulk
can lower the overall cost. Screws of 1-1/2 inches are barely long enough.
1-3/4 inch flat head screws may be hard to find
All #10 screws can be replaced with #8, but locally, and on the Z axis the longer screws
#10 is much better for the bearing axles. will protrude from the sides of the carriage and
may be a nuisance.
The bearing axles are listed as #10-24 x 1 inch.
This length will work well with all of the Flat head #10-24 x 1-1/2 may be locally
bearings except for the bottom front Z unavailable; #10-32 will work, but of course
bearings. will require #10-32 nuts.
These two bearings are close to the router
and require a 3/4
inch axle. #10 Washers
A 1 inch axle will
scrape the router. The total of 126 is listed, but they are sold in
All of the bearing boxes of 100. Not all listed washers are
axles can be 3/4 needed. One per tension rod and one per truck
inch long. bearing can be removed.
However, the
thickness of the The washers are necessary with the nuts for
bearings, the flat head screws that support the aluminum
washers, and nuts Bottom Z bearings are truck angles, and washers are very helpful with
close to the router body.
will vary, and a the stepper mounts.
3/4 inch long
screw may be a little short to easily use. A Using finish washers with the drywall screws
bearing washer can be left out if needed. on the X gantry and Y rail supports will give a
cleaner appearance, and further lessen the #10
washer count by 12 pieces.
The #10-24 x 3 inch screws used to hold the
steppers and Y leadnut block can also be #8.
#10 will flex less, but the heads of #10 may not
fit in the space around the holes in some of the
steppers. The #10 head may have to be filed
down to fit in the stepper.

12
The directions with a g-code for the
5/16-18 Tee Nuts homemade knobs are on the website’s Hold
Downs page.
Tee nuts are used as leadnuts, and can be used
with the optional leadscrew knobs.
Threaded Rod
Tined or pronged tee
nuts will work instead The #10-24 rod is strong enough for the Z’s 5-
of the flat flanged 1/2 inch, and the X’s 10-1/2 inch tension rods,
ones shown in the but 1/4 inch rod can be used in its place,
construction photos. though the holes in the wood will be tight.
The tines will have to
be bent or removed The #10 rod will not work inside the Z rails
from the tined nuts so where 1/4 inch rod is specified in these plans.
Bent and removed
the washers can seat tines on tee nut. The tension here is quite high and the smaller
properly against the rod may twist or strip threads.
tee nuts.
5/16-18 rod can be used in place of the 1/4-20
Three tee nuts are rod inside the Z rails.
required as leadnuts.
Two others can be 5/16-18 is used for the leadscrews because it is
inserted into optional easily found, fits well in skate bearings, and
homemade knobs that does not whip in the lengths used on this
are attached to the Knob on gantry machine.
ends of the X and Y leadscrew.
leadscrews. 5/16-18 threaded rod is used for the Y
compression rod because it is large enough to
take the load without buckling.
Knobs
An old volume knob 5/16-18 rod can not easily be used in place of
or similar can be the #10 rod because the clearances are tight.
attached to the top of
the Z stepper to The 5/16-18 rod can be as short as 18 inches
permit easier hand for the Y and X leadscrews, 5-1/4 inches for
jogging. These knobs the Y compression rod, and 5-1/2 inches for
can be used with the the Z leadscrew. These minimum lengths will
other two steppers permit a 4 foot threaded rod to provide all of
also. This would the 5/16-18 stock. Note that the 18 inch long
negate the need for leadscrews will not be long enough to support
the homemade knobs Knob on Z stepper. the optional knobs.
on the leadscrews.
The large diameter of the homemade knobs The rod is usually available from home centers
makes them easier to use than most volume in 3 foot rather than 4 foot lengths, so two 3
knobs. foot rods will probably have to be purchased.

13
The pipe size is called 1/2 inch. Its inside
Drywall Screws diameter is a little more than 1/2 inch and its
outside diameter is around 7/8 inch.
1-5/8 inch coarse
thread is a The plumbing pipe is sold in sections of
compromise length. varying length from a few inches to 10 or more
feet.
1-5/8 inch drywall
One inch screws will screws and #8 finish The machine requires at least 92 inches.
work with the EMT washers. Usually the best value at home centers is to
clamps. buy a 10 foot section, and to cut the pieces to
length.
The screws that are driven into the end grain
of the boards (table frame and gantry ends), The stores often will cut the pipe for free or
and the screws that hold the table bed to the for a small fee. It also can be cut with a
legs, can be over 2 inches long. hacksaw.

1-5/8 inch screws protrude through two 3/4 The X and Y wooden rail supports are 16
inch boards (rail supports) but 1-1/4 inch inches long. The pipe should be cut a fraction
screws are too short for the rail supports. shorter than 16 inches so the pipe will not
However, the preferred length of 1-1/2 inches keep the end plates from abutting the rail
may be unavailable locally. support boards.

A one pound box of coarse thread 1-5/8 inch The length listed in these plans is 15-7/8
drywall screws will work well enough for all of inches. The pipe can be as short as 15-1/2
the wood screws in this machine. There will be inches, but longer pipe will give more stock
many screws left over from the pound box. for the EMT clamps to grasp.

The pipe will probably be threaded at each


1/2 Inch Black Iron Pipe end. The threads can be cut off, which is
preferred, but the threaded section can be left
The pipe is sold as gas pipe, black pipe, iron on the pipe. The clamps will cover most of the
pipe or any combination of those terms. threaded portion of the pipe, so the threads
It is painted black, and is sold in the plumbing will only be hit by the bearings at the extreme
section of home centers. of the axis travel.

Rigid electrical conduit is very similar and can The Z axis’ carriage is capable of more travel
also be used, as can galvanized plumbing pipe. than the height of the gantry permits. With
longer rails, the full travel could approach a
The quality and prices of these options will foot before the pipes flex too much while
vary; it is worthwhile to comparison shop. cutting soft stock. However, to reduce chatter,
it is better for the router to work as close as
Note that the black paint and the galvanization possible to the Z bearings.
of the different types of pipes will all wear
with use. This has not been an issue. A little On this machine the travel from carriage
sanding or filing can remove minor pits and bottom to the table top is around 4 inches.
scratches.

14
Pipes of 14 inches will barely permit this However, 15-7/8 inch Z pipes will require
travel. threaded rods that are nearly 18 inches long.
This would require an entire 3 foot length of
The four inch travel distance was chosen so rod, which will not leave enough stock for the
the router could extend low enough to trim the router cradle.
edge of the table top while raising high enough
to cut 1-1/2 inch stock. The travel also makes The router cradle requires 1-1/2 inches of 1/4
it easier to change router bits while stock is inch rod. A full-thread bolt can be used for the
attached to the table bed. cradle in place of the section of threaded rod,
but full-thread bolts can be hard to find locally.
It is not a problem for the Z pipes to be longer, Therefore, these plans state 15 inches for the
and it is possible for all pipes to be the same Z pipes, so a single 3 foot rod can be used for
length of 15-7/8 inches. all 1/4 inch threaded rod stock.

Wood

The machine was designed to use standard 1x4 and 1x6 boards. The boards’ actual dimensions are
3/4 x 3-1/2 inches, and 3/4 x 5-1/2 inches.

The 1x4 components require 12 feet of stock. As shown below, the pieces can be cut from two 6 foot
long boards. Two standard length 1x4 by 8 foot boards will serve well. The extra stock will permit
the boards’ blemishes to be avoided.

The 1x6 components require 81 inches, less than 7 feet, of stock. Again, a standard sized 1x6 by 8
foot board will serve well.

Both total lengths shown below (72 and 81 inches) allow 1/8 inch kerf between pieces. The kerf is
the wood that is removed, turned into sawdust, by the saw blade.

Cuts in 1x4 stock. The wood is 3-1/2 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick.

Cuts in 1x6 stock. The wood is 5-1/2 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick.

15
1x4 Parts Actual Size 3/4 x 3-1/2 Inches
Wood Cut List
ü Length Parts Listed by Length
The table on the left is a check list for cutting
17-1/2 Y Axis Stepper End
the stock.
16 Y Axis Front End
It can ease construction to mark the length of
16 Y Axis Rail Support 1 of 4
the stock on the pieces as they are cut. Some
16 Y Axis Rail Support 2 of 4 parts are close to the same length, but the
slight differences do matter.
16 Y Axis Rail Support 3 of 4

16 Y Axis Rail Support 4 of 4

9 Z Axis Side 1 of 2

9 Z Axis Side 2 of 2

5-1/2 Y Table Leg 1 of 2

5-1/2 Y Table Leg 2 of 2

3-5/8 Z Carriage Bottom

3-1/2 Z Carriage Back


Boards cut to length. Note the 3 inch section of
3-3/8 Z Stepper Support 1x4 is ripped into two pieces.

3 See Z Router-Rail Support


Note & Y Leadnut Block
Below Threaded Rod and Pipe Lengths

1x6 Parts Actual Size 3/4 x 5-1/2 Inches 5/16-18 Threaded Rod
17 X Gantry End 1 of 2 X Leadscrew 20 inches
Y Leadscrew 20 inches
17 X Gantry End 2 of 2 Y Compression Rod 6 inches
16 X Gantry Beam 1 of 2 Z Leadscrew 7 inches
1/4-20 Threaded Rod
16 X Gantry Beam 2 of 2 Z Pipe Tension Rods 2 at 17-1/4 inches
9 Y Table Bed Router Cradle 1-1/2 inch
#10-24 Threaded Rod
4-3/4 Z Carriage Top
Z Side Tension 3 at 5-1/2 inches
X Tension 10-1/2 inches
NOTE:
Cut to 3 inches long. Then make one rip cut that
leaves two pieces. One piece is 1-1/2 inches and the 1/2 inch ID Pipe
other is 1-7/8 inches. The lost 1/8 inch is the kerf. X Rails 2 pieces at 15-7/8 inches each
(1-1/2 in. + 1-7/8 in. + 1/8 in. = 3-1/2 in.)
Y Rails 2 pieces at 15-7/8 inches each
A rip cut is a cut that is parallel to, rather than Z Rails 2 pieces at 15 inches each
across, the wood’s grain.

16
Bearing Truck Assembly

The bearing truck assemblies


are similar for all axes.

They are made of 1/8 x 3/4 x 3/4 inch


aluminum angle that is cut and drilled
to the dimensions shown here.

Two of each size are required.

The stock is cut to length with a hacksaw. A vise helps


considerably, but the cutting can be done by holding the metal
on the edge of a work surface as shown.

The aluminum angles are cut to length. Cut the aluminum with a hacksaw.

17
The holes that are 1/4 inch from
the corners are scribed, punch-
marked, and drilled.

It is easier to work on the inside


of the angle so it can be laid flat
on the work surface for drilling.
Far right middle image.

Set the combo square at 1/4 inch,


and scribe the 1/4 inch marks
Scribe1/4 inch from the edge. Scribe1/4 inch from the end.
from the edges and ends. Right
images.

Use a punch to mark where the scribed lines cross, then drill pilot holes. A 7/64 or 1/8 inch bit can
be used to drill pilot holes. The pilots will help to keep the 3/16 inch bit from wandering. Images
below.

Next, scribe the marks


for the holes that are 3/4
inch from the ends of the
pieces. Left image below.

To make punching and


drilling these corner
holes easier, file or sand
flats on the corner of the
aluminum at the 3/4 inch Punch at the marks’ Drill the holes; drill a small pilot hole first.
intersection.
marks. Far right image
below.

A belt sander can be


used instead of a file.
Next page.

Mark the positions of the holes File a flat on the edge at the 3/4 inch mark.
that are 3/4 inch from the ends.

18
A file will work, but the roller end of a belt sander makes quick
work of creating the flat sections.

Punch-mark the holes’ locations at the scribed marks. Lower left


image.

Drill the holes. Use a small pilot bit for the first holes, then enlarge
the holes to 3/16 inch.
Countersink the edge holes so the head of a #10 flat head screw
does not protrude beyond the corner of the aluminum. Right image,
page bottom. A belt sander quickly flattens the
corner edge.

Punch on the filed flat section. Drill the hole at the 3/4 inch mark. Countersink the hole for the flat
head screw.

The screw head will


scrape the pipe rail
if the head stands
proud of the corner.

The countersink or
depression can be
made with a larger
drill bit, a
countersink bit, a
hand file, a grinder, Make a depression for the screw-head on Machine screw’s head should not
or a power sander. the corner of the aluminum. extend above the angle’s corner edge.

The countersunk recess does not have to be pretty to serve its purpose.
Be careful not to drill too deeply when using a drill bit, rather than a countersink bit, to make this
recess.

If the larger drill bit does tear completely through the aluminum, use a washer with the
machine screw, and enlarge the recessed area to fit the washer. It should not be necessary to re-make
a new part.

19
Install #10 x 3/4 or 1 inch machine screws in
the holes that were drilled in the legs of the
aluminum angle.

Machine screws of 3/4 inch will usually work


for all axes on this machine.

Adjust the bearings on the #10 axle screws


so the angle clears the pipe. Red arrow.

Install machine screws, nuts, washers and


bearings. The lower outside screws on the
Z trucks must be 3/4 inch. Arrows indicate
the 3/4 inch screws’ positions.

The Z trucks have to use 3/4 inch screws on


Make all of the truck assemblies.
the bottom bearings that will be near the
router. Arrows in above image. Longer screws
will hit the router.
Band Strap Anchor
Tighten the screws into place with nuts.
Then install a washer, a bearing, another The total length of aluminum angle required
washer, and a nut. for the trucks is 34-1/4 inches. When a 36 inch
section of stock is used, the remaining piece
Adjust the bearings so they hold the angle can be used as the router’s band anchor.
away from the pipe rail. Above right image.
A 1/4 inch hole is drilled in the center of this
There should be at least 1/16 inch of clearance remnant.
between the pipe and the corner of the
aluminum angle. A piece of 1/8 x 3/4
aluminum angle
All six of the truck assemblies can be made at between 3/4 and 2
one time. inches long will
work for this
component.
Band strap anchor.

20
Using the Templates

The templates are scaled to print at the correct size.


However, different printers will scale differently.

To address this inconsistency, each template is framed in a


box that includes a dimension value in both inches and
centimeters. This dimension is at the bottom or side of the
templates; the dimensions are circled in red in the right and
lower images.

When the framing box is not a square, a second dimension


is also given in the framing box as shown in the image
below.

Note that the entire framing box may not appear


when the image is viewed on a computer screen. It
should be visible when printed, or when the image is
enlarged on the screen.

The dimension of the framing box can be measured


after the template is printed. The printer’s scaling
can then be altered to properly size the template.
This will be a trial and error process, and will vary
with each printer and
computer.

The templates should be


correctly scaled when the
framing box is properly
scaled.

The templates can be cut-


out and taped, glued,
stapled etc. to the top of
their boards.

An awl, punch or nail can


be used to mark the
position of the holes.
Right image. Punch marks into wood
through the template.

21
Y Rail Support The rails are supported by four 1x4 x 16 inch boards. The two top boards
require the holes that are shown here. The other two boards are not drilled
at this time.
There is no template for these two pieces; using a template is more trouble
than it is worth.
The holes are positioned the same at each end of the two boards.
The holes are 1 inch from the edges, and 1-1/2 inches from the ends.
Using a combo square set at 1 inch and then at 1-1/2 inches speeds
the marking process.

Y rail on support boards.

Y Front End Board This board supports the two sets of Y rail supports, and the Y
leadscrew.
The four holes on each end of this board are pilot holes for the
screws that tie this board to the rail support boards.
These holes should be the diameter of the attaching screws. 3/16
inch holes are used with the drywall screws on the prototypes. The
3/16 inch hole is larger than the screw, and it leaves a little
adjustment room once the screw is started
in the matching board.
Y front end board.

22
The hole in the center section of the board is for the leadscrew, and it should be sized to allow the
leadscrew to turn freely without rattling in the hole. The leadscrew will clean and enlarge the hole with
use; therefore, it is not necessary to drill this hole oversized.

The center leadscrew hole does not have a


template. Its center is 8 inches from the ends
and 1/2 inch from the top edge of the board.
Right image.
It is the diameter of the leadscrew, which is
5/16 inch in the prototypes.

The holes in the ends of the boards are the


same but mirrored.
The Y front’s leadscrew hole is 8 inches from the ends.
The template can be flipped after it is used
for the left end of the board. Images below.

The punched holes in the template can then be used as guides for the holes in the right end.

Template with text side up. Template flipped for right end of board.

23
Y Front, End Template

24
Y Stepper End

The back end of the table frame holds the Y stepper and
the rail supports. It also supports the gantry ends, so it is
longer than the front end of the table frame.

There are two templates for this board. One is for the
stepper in the center section of the board, and the other
template is for the screw holes on the ends of the boards.
Y stepper end plate.

The 7/8 inch recess is for a bearing. The hole is drilled around 1/4 inch deep. The 5/8 inch hole is a
through hole that leaves a shoulder for the bearing to abut.

The shallow 7/8


inch recess should
be drilled first,
then the 5/8 inch
hole is drilled.
Right images.

It is hard to center
the larger recess
when the smaller
hole is drilled first.

Drill 7/8 inch recess first. Drill the 5/8 inch through-hole last.

25
Y Stepper Template

The 2-5/8 inch bolt circle is shown for reference. This is the dimension for a NEMA 23 stepper’s bolt
holes.

The holes for the stepper’s attaching bolts are shown as 1/4 inch. These holes should be larger than
the bolts or machine screws that hold the stepper, so the position of the stepper can be adjusted.
Washers on the machine screws cover the oversized holes.

The center of the 7/8 inch bearing recess and the 5/8 inch through hole is 8-3/4 inches from the board’s
ends, and 1/2 inch from the board’s top edge.

26
Y Stepper End Template

This template is for the screw holes that hold the Y rail support boards, and it is for the screw holes
that support the gantry’s vertical end boards.
The dashed line shows the position of the gantry end boards.
As with the front board template, this template is used for one end of the board and then flipped. The
punched holes are used to mark the other end’s holes.

27
Y Table Bed

The table bed is made of a 1x6 that is cut to 9 inches long.


The stock is 5-1/2 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick.

The hole locations are straightforward, and a template is


unnecessary.

The surface of this board will be planed with a router bit when the Y table bed.
machine is completed. This will ensure that the surface is level and
true with the rest of the machine.

The surfacing may remove a lot of stock, so the screws should be deeply recessed or countersunk.
A drill bit that is the diameter of the heads of the screws can be used to recess the holes after the
through holes are drilled. The recesses should be at least 1/4 inch deep. This can be done with a 3/8
inch drill bit.

The two 5/32 inch holes should fit tightly around the machine screws that are in these holes. It will be
much easier to adjust components when these two machine screws do not freewheel. The 5/32 inch
diameter is for #10 machine screws. The holes can be 9/64 inch for #8 screws.

28
Measure, mark and drill the holes.

Setting the combo square to 1-1/8 inch, and


then to 1-7/8 inch speeds the layout.

Punch-mark the layout lines’ intersections,


and drill the holes.

All of the holes have to be recessed around


1/4 inch deep.

Measure and mark the positions of the holes.

Drill the holes. The small holes near the The holes are deeply recessed.
center (arrows) should fit tightly around their
machine screws.

After the holes are drilled and recessed,


measure and draw a line on the bottom of
this table bed that is 1-1/2 inches from the
outside edge. The line can be on either
edge. Right image.

This marks the outside of one of the legs,


and will be used for alignment later.

The legs are made next.


Draw a line that is 1-1/2 inches from the outside edge of the
board.

29
Y Table Legs

The two Y Table Legs are


made of 1x4 stock that is cut
to 5-1/2 inches long.
The stock is 3/4 inch thick
and 3-1/2 inches wide.

These two legs are simple and


do not need a template.

The 1/4 inch holes are


oversized to allow for
adjustment; they hold the Y
bearing truck assembly.

The 3/8 inch hole is large to


permit easy installation of the
threaded rod ( Y compression
rod) that it supports.

Legs on table bed. Measure and mark the hole locations.

Two of these pieces are


needed.

Measure, mark, and


drill the holes in the
two 1x4 boards.

Drill the holes. The two legs with their holes drilled.

30
Y Leadnut Support Block

The Y leadnut is supported by a wooden block that is attached to


the bottom of the Y table bed.

This block of wood is cut from the 3 inch section of 1x4 that is
ripped into two pieces. This block is the larger of the two pieces
at 1-7/8 x 3 inches.

The two 3/8 inch holes in this block can be drilled before the Leadnut support block.
table assembly begins. These two holes are oversized to permit
adjustment.

The holes for the leadnut and its supporting


screws will be drilled later. These other holes
will be marked during table assembly. These are
the holes that are shown as ~7/8 inch from the
top of the block in the right image.

Drilling 7/64 or 1/8 inch pilot holes first will help


to keep the 3/8 inch holes on course.

The pilot holes can be drilled from both the top


and the bottom of the block. The holes will meet
in the center of the block.

The 3/8 inch holes can be drilled


after the pilot holes are drilled.
The 3/8 inch holes, like the
pilots, can be drilled from both
the top and bottom edges of the
block. The final drilled holes
should be straight and clean.

After the 3/8 inch holes are


drilled, mark lines on the
centerline of the holes on the
side of the block. Far right
image.
These lines will be used later to Drill pilot holes and then drill Mark the center of the 3/8 inch holes
align the block on the bottom the 3/8 inch holes entirely on the side of the block.
of the table bed. through the block.

31
X Gantry End Plates
The ends of the gantry
are 1x6 boards that are
cut to 17 inches long.
The stock is 3/4 inch
thick and 5-1/2 inches
wide.
The stepper is attached
to the right gantry end.
As with the Y stepper
end board, a leadscrew
bearing is recessed into
this board.
The holes in the lower
right image are for the
screws that attach the
gantry end to the Y rail
supports. The placement
of these bottom holes is
straightforward, and a
template is not needed.

X Gantry end plates.

Gantry ends with holes drilled.

32
X Gantry, Stepper End Plate Template
The template also shows the position of the gantry beam and its pipe rails.
For clarity, the recess and holes that should be drilled are colored pink and red.
This template’s frame box is 7-1/2 inches square.

33
X Gantry Leadscrew End Template
This template is a mirror of the stepper end, with the exception of the stepper bolt holes and bearing.
The leadscrew hole on this end plate should align with the bearing recess and hole on the other end
plate.
The leadscrew hole, shown as 5/16 inch, should be the same diameter as the leadscrew.
For clarity, the holes that should be drilled are red.

34
Gantry Beam

The gantry beam is 1x6 stock that is cut to 16 inches long. The stock
is 3/4 inch thick and 5-1/2 inches wide. Two of these boards are
screwed and glued together.
The four pilot holes are only drilled in one of the two gantry boards.

The holes are positioned the same at each end. Their placement is
simple and a template is unnecessary.
The holes are 1 inch from the edge, and 2 inches from the ends of
the board.

X pipe rails on gantry beam.

Mark the holes on one board and drill them with a 3/16 inch bit.

Mark holes. Drill 3/16 inch diameter holes.

35
Z Carriage

The carriage’s sides, bottom, and back are made of 1x4, and the top is cut from a 1x6.

Z Sides

The two Z sides are made of 1x4 that is


cut to 9 inches long. The wood’s actual
dimensions are 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches.

The parts are mirror images of each


other with the exception of the holes for
the leadnut, its attachment screws, and
leadscrew.

Leadnut side. Stepper side of carriage.

36
Z Top

The top is cut from 1x6 stock. The wood’s actual dimensions are 3/4 x
5-1/2 inches.

The top overhangs the sides, which allows a range of bearing adjustment
against the Z rails. This adjustment permits the use of pipe rails other
than the ones specified in these plans. It also is forgiving of offsets that
accumulate during construction.

The positions of the sides and back are shown on the template on the
following page.

The 5/32 inch holes beside the 1/2 inch leadscrew hole are for the #10
machine screws that attach the leadnut to the carriage top. Z top on sides.
These two holes should be small enough to fit tightly around the machine
screws. These holes can be 9/64 inch for #8 machine screws.
The screws should not freewheel in the holes. This will make later leadnut adjustments much easier.

This top plate is oriented so the wood’s grain runs front to back. Tension rods will pull this top plate
and the bottom plate together. Were the wood’s grain oriented sideways, the boards would be likely
to split as the tension rod was tightened.

39
Z Top Template

40
Z Back

The Z back is simply a section


of 1x4 that is cut to 3-1/2
inches long. It is a square
block that is 3/4 inch thick.
No pilot holes are drilled in it
until the carriage is assembled.

There is no template for this


part.

Carriage back.

Z Bottom

The bottom is a piece of 1x4 that is


cut to 3-5/8 inches long. Three 1/4
inch holes are drilled as shown.

Like the top plate, this piece of wood


is oriented so its grain runs from front
to back. This grain orientation helps to
prevent the wood from splitting as the
tension rod is tightened.

The template on the following page shows the position of the sides
in relation to this bottom plate.

Z bottom plate.

41
Z Bottom Template

42
Z Stepper Plate
The stepper plate is a piece of 1x4 that is cut to 3-3/8 inches long.
It is oriented so the wood’s grain runs front to back. This
orientation helps to prevent the wood from splitting. This piece is
supported near its front edge by the pipe rails, and the load could
split the block were the grain oriented sideways.

A recess for the leadscrew bearing is drilled in the top of this plate.
The 7/8 inch diameter recess is around 1/4 inch deep.
The 5/8 inch diameter through hole is drilled after the 7/8 inch
recess is drilled. Otherwise, it will be difficult to position the bit for
the 7/8 inch hole.

Recesses that support the pipe rails are drilled into the bottom side
of this stepper plate.
These recesses can be 1/8 inch deep or deeper. Enough material
should be left in the bottom of the hole for the wood to be firmly
clamped onto the rails with the tension rods.
Z stepper plate.
The recesses can be different depths to accommodate pipe rails that
are slightly different lengths.

Small pilot holes of ~1/8 inch should be drilled at the location of the 5/16 inch holes before the 5/16
inch holes and 7/8 inch recesses are drilled.

The 7/8 inch recesses for the pipe ends are drilled after the pilot holes, then the 5/16 inch through holes
are drilled. Again, this sequence makes it easier to position the larger recesses.

The recesses for the pipe ends can be sized slightly differently for pipes other than those specified
in these plans. The sides of the Z carriage can
be flexed somewhat, so the bearings can
accommodate different rails.

43
Z Stepper Plate, Top Template

The template for the bottom is on the next page.

The 2-5/8 inch bolt circle is shown for reference.


The stepper’s attachment holes are 1/4 inch to permit adjustment.
The 7/8 inch bearing recess is around 1/4 inch deep. This section of the stepper plate carries the weight
of the router, so the wood should not be too thin at this location.

Small pilot holes of ~1/8 inch should be drilled at the location of the 5/16 inch holes before the 5/16
inch holes and the bottom 7/8 inch recesses are drilled. Drilling the pilot holes will make positioning
of the 7/8 inch drill bit much easier.

44
Z Stepper Plate, Bottom

45
Z Router Mount

This piece of wood is


the remainder from the
3 inch block that was
ripped for the Y leadnut
block.
It is 3 x 1-1/2 inches.

The Z router mount


is drilled to accept the
pipe rails and the
tension rods.
It is also drilled through the center Z router mount.
of its side to accept the bolt that ties the router to the axis.

Like the Z stepper plate’s 7/8 inch recesses, this router mount’s recesses can be different depths to
accept pipe rails of slightly different lengths. Again, it is important not to drill too deeply; enough
wood should be left to support the rails when the tension rods are tightened.

46
Assemble Y Axis

Y Rail Support

The pipe rails are


supported by four 1x4 by
16 inch boards.
The top two boards are
drilled as shown in the
above drawing.
Once drilled, each of the
top boards is glued and
screwed to one of the
Table bed frame with 1x4 rail supports installed.
bottom 1x4 by 16 inch
boards.

Half inch EMT conduit clamps hold the pipes into place. Right image.
Pipe clamped to two 1x4
The boards are offset 1/2 inch to cradle the pipe. boards.

Glue is spread on the 1x4 boards, and the boards are pressed together.

The 1/2 inch offset is


measured, and the boards
are screwed together with
1-5/8 inch drywall screws.

Number 8 finish washers,


or flat washers, can be
used with the drywall
screws to prevent them
from protruding through
the backs of the boards.
Spread glue Offset is 1/2 inch

47
Measure offset Tighten screws

After the two pairs of boards are screwed together, the EMT
clamps are aligned and installed with the pipe rails.

The sides of the clamps are flush with the ends of the boards.
The arches of the clamps are aligned with the edge of the
boards. Right image.

Metal plumbing tape can be used in place of the clamps. It is


soft and bends easily.

Align an EMT clamp with the edge of the board, and mark the
position of the clamp’s hole. Right image. A half inch EMT clamp is aligned with
the edge of the board. (Red arrow) Mark
the clamp’s hole with a punch.
Drill a pilot hole for a 1-5/8 inch drywall screw with a 7/64
inch bit. Left image below.

The pilot holes are necessary because the


screws are near the edges of the boards.
The wood could split were the screws
driven without pilots.

Tighten the clamp into place with a drywall


screw and washer. Right image.

Drill a 7/64 inch pilot hole for Screw the EMT clamp onto
the EMT clamp’s mounting the boards. Use a washer
screw. with the drywall screw.

48
Install two clamps on the two pairs
of boards.

Place the 15-7/8 inch length of 1/2


inch pipe on the edge of the 1x4s,
and bend the clamps around the pipe.
Middle right image.
Install clamps on both ends of the rail support boards.

Install pipe into EMT clamps.

Drill a 7/64 inch pilot hole for a drywall screw through the
clamp’s hole. Direct the drill so the bit does not hit the first
drywall screw. Left image below.
Stop drilling if the bit hits the clamp’s other drywall screw.
Trying to go around the screw may break the bit. Bend clamp around pipe.

The spruce-pine-fir 1x4 is


soft enough to allow the
second drywall screw to find
its way around the first
screw.
When harder wood is used
the hole should be re-drilled
at an angle if the bit hits the
first screw.
Tighten the screws into
place.

Repeat for both rail support


assemblies.
Drill a 7/64 inch pilot hole Pipe clamped onto rail support boards.
through the EMT clamp’s hole.
Attach the clamp with a drywall
screw and washer.

49
Attach Rail Supports to End Plates

The back and front end plates need to be cut and drilled before assembly begins. Refer to pages 22-27.

Install Back End Plate

The rail supports are raised to the correct height of


1-1/2 inches from the work surface by resting them
on top of extra 1x4 or 1x6 boards.

The gantry end and beam pieces can be used for this
blocking.

Place rail supports on extra boards.

50
Glue is spread on the
end of one of the rail
support assemblies.
Right image.

Apply glue on one end


at a time, just before
screwing the parts
together.

Glue is worth the


trouble; it significantly Spread glue on end of the Align rail support boards with stepper end board.
boards. Bearing recess faces out (Arrow 1). Use an extra
stiffens the joints, board as a spacer to align edges (Arrow 2).
which reduces chatter. Tighten screws.

The ends are screwed to the rail supports with four 1-5/8 inch
drywall screws at each junction. Above and middle right images.

The back stepper end board is attached first. This is the longer 17-
1/2 inch end plate that has the holes for the stepper and bearing.

The stepper’s bearing recess should face outward. Right top image,
arrow 1.

An extra piece of 1x4 or 1x6 is used as a temporary spacer to offset


the rail support assembly from the end of the Y axis end plate.
Arrow 2 in top right image. Attach other rail support.

Tighten the four 1-5/8 inch drywall screws when the rail support is aligned with the end plate.
Washers are not needed with these screws.
Pilot holes into the ends of the rail supports are not needed unless harder wood is used.

Repeat this process for the second rail support. Right image above.

Install Front End Plate

The front Y end plate is installed the same way,


except the rail supports are flush with the ends of the
Y end plate. Arrow in right image.

Check for square and level after all of the parts are
screwed together. The table assembly should lie flat
on a level surface without rocking.
Screws can be loosened while the glue is still Align the end of the front board with the side of
uncured to adjust for square. The wood is soft the rail support board. The parts are flush at the
arrow.

51
enough that racking the components by twisting them can pull the parts into alignment.

If needed, clamp or block the table bed assembly to


a square level surface while the glue cures.

The floor can be the level surface, and bricks can be


used as weights or blocking to hold the unit in place
as the glue sets.

The Y moving table bed can be assembled and


installed after this Y table frame is completed; this is
addressed next.
Front view of completed Y table frame.

Assemble Y Table

The table bed and legs have


to be cut and drilled before
assembly begins. This is
covered on pages 28-30.

The legs have no front or


back, so they can be installed
Assembled Y table.
with either side facing
outward.
Align a leg with the line that was
Align a leg with the line that was drawn on the bottom of the drawn on the bottom of the top board.
table bed. Note hole positions. The large 3/8 inch hole is Arrow points to 3/8 inch hole.
farthest away from the table top. Above right image.

Make sure the outside edge of the leg is well aligned with the
line that was drawn. The leg should be parallel to the edge of
the table top board.

Drill 7/64 inch pilot holes into the top edge of the leg through
the existing holes in the top of the table.

Glue and screw this one leg into place. Use 1-5/8 inch or longer
drywall screws.

Drill pilot holes into the edge of the


leg. Use the existing holes in the table
top as guides.

52
The other leg is installed after the trucks have been
attached to the legs.

Attach the 5-1/2 inch long truck assemblies to the legs


with #10 x 1-1/2 inch flat head machine screws. Use
a washer with each nut.

Finger tighten the nuts.

The screws may barely protrude through the back of


the leg. Deepen the countersink depression in the
aluminum if a screw does not extend far enough to
attach a nut with a washer. Longer screws can be
used.
Attach the 5-1/2 inch trucks to the legs. Use flat
head #10 x 1-1/2 inch machine screws.

Place the table bed with its one attached leg inside the
table frame.

The table bed should be placed so the leadnut block


holes are near the back stepper end plate.
Arrows in right image.

Align the trucks with the rails.

Position the loose leg and truck assembly underneath


the table, and align its bearings on the rail. Right
image.

Firmly press the bearings against the rails, and insert a


punch or awl through the top plate’s existing hole to Align table bed bearings on rails. Mark leg for
mark the position of the loose leg’s screw hole. Right screw. Arrows show bed orientation with leadnut
block holes near stepper end board.
image.

It is important for the


bearings to be very tight
against the rails. It is best for
the leg to be square against
the table top.

Remove the loose leg and


drill a pilot hole at the mark
that was just made.

Spread glue on the edge.


Right image.
Drill a pilot hole in leg. Spread glue on the leg’s edge.

53
Place the leg back under the table bed, and screw it into place with a 1-5/8 inch drywall screw.
Press the leg and its bearings tightly against the pipe rail, and drill a second pilot hole.
Drive in the second screw.

Drive in 1-5/8 inch drywall screw. Drill second pilot hole and install screw.

Install Y Compression Rod

The compression rod is a 6 inch long section of 5/16-18


threaded rod. Compression rod with four nuts and two
washers.
This larger diameter rod is used here, instead of the smaller
rods used on the other axes, because the smaller rods will
bend when subjected to the compression load applied in
this axis’ configuration.

Flip the entire assembly upside-down so it rests on the top


of the moving table bed.

Slide the compression rod through the 3/8 inch hole in one
Install 5/16-18 compression rod.
leg.
Install a washer, four nuts, and another washer. Then slide
the rod into the other leg’s 3/8 inch hole.

Tighten the outer nuts against their washers to press the


legs and their bearings into the rails. Right image.

Tighten the nuts against the legs to press


the bearings into the rails.

54
Individual bearings can be moved so they firmly ride the
rails. Right image.

The bearings should be pressed against the rails so


tightly that it is difficult to prevent the bearings from
turning when they are pinched with fingers while the
table is moved on the rails.

The travel may not be smooth because of the rough


surface of the rails. This is not a problem. The bearings
will wear flat tracks in the pipes. The pipes can also be
filed or sanded if needed. This will be done after the Individual bearings can be moved to firmly
machine has been operated for a few test runs. ride the rails, if needed.

Turn the table back upright and test the movement of


the table bed. It should move with no play from end to
end on the rails.

It is not a problem if there is more tension against the


bearings at one end of the Y travel than there is at the
other.

It is important for the table to move without rattling on


the rails due to the bearings being too loose. Make Flip the table frame back upright and test for
further adjustments with the tension rod if needed. tight movement.

Again, it is okay for there to be a little coarseness in the


travel because of the imperfect surface of the pipes. This
will work-out with use.

When the table moves smoothly, flip it over again and


tighten the second set of compression rod nuts against
the nuts that were tightened against the washers. These
second nuts will lock the compression rod into position.
Right image.

Tighten the inside nuts against the outside


nuts to lock the nuts into place.

55
Tighten the trucks’ flat head machine screws into place. Lower left image.

The flat head machine screws may turn as their nuts are tightened. Slide a small screwdriver into the
side of the screw head’s slot to stop the screw from freewheeling. Right image below.

Tighten the nuts on the trucks’ flat head machine A small screwdriver can be used to prevent the
screws. machine screw from freewheeling.

Install Y Leadnut Block

This block has to be cut and partially drilled, as shown on page 31, before the following is begun.

On the bottom of the table bed, mark


the center lines of the leadnut block
screw holes that go through the table
bed. Extend the lines to the back edge
of the table bed. Right image.

Draw lines from the leadnut block screw holes to the edge of
the table bed.

56
Align the marks on the leadnut block with
the ones on the table bed, and abut the
block against the stepper end of the axis.

Draw a circle on the block around the


perimeter of the end plate’s bearing hole.
Right image.

Drill a half inch hole that is centered in


the circle that was just drawn on the
block. Image below left.

Center the leadnut over the hole that was


just drilled.

Drill 5/32 inch diameter holes 1/8 inch


from each side of the leadnut. Center
image below.

These holes will hold the leadnut support


screws. There should be room to adjust Align the marks on the table bed and block, and mark the
the position of the leadnut between the position of the end plate’s bearing hole onto the block.
screws.

Drive two #10 by 1-1/4 inch machine screws through the holes in the block. The heads of these screws
are on the side of the block that was originally marked for the 1/2 inch hole. The threads will face the
front of the table, away from the stepper end. This will give ample wrench access to the nuts, which
will make adjusting the leadnut easier.

Drill a 1/2 inch hole in the circle that Drill two 5/32 inch holes 1/8 inch Drive #10 x 1-1/4 inch machine
was drawn on the block. from the leadnut. screws through the block.

57
Center the leadnut between the ends of the machine
screws.

Put a 1/4 inch washer, a #10 washer, and a nut on


each screw. Right image.

Finger tighten the nuts to hold the leadnut in place.

Place washers and nuts on the screws.

Drive three inch long machine screws through the


table top’s leadnut block holes. Left image below.
Drive the screws so their heads are deeply recessed into the table top.

Drive three inch screws into the table top. Put the leadnut block on the screws. Put washers
and nuts on the screws.

Flip the table over and put the leadnut block with its leadnut on the 3 inch screws.

Put a 1/4 inch washer, a #10 washer, and a nut on both of the 3 inch long screws. Right image.

58
Install Leadscrew

Install the 5/16 inch threaded rod leadscrew in the


machine.
Start from the front of the machine.
The rod should be at least 18 inches long. A length of
at least 19-1/2 inches will permit the rod to extend
from the front of the machine far enough for a knob to
be attached to it.
A knob can make moving the axis for set-ups easier,
but a knob is not required.

A drill can be used to quickly drive the rod through the


end plate and the leadnut. Right image.

Install two nuts and a bearing on the leadscrew after it


passes through the leadnut. Left image below.
The nuts will be used to hold the bearing in place.
Install the leadscrew. A drill can speed the
process.
Pass the leadscrew through the back end plate, and
insert a bearing into the recess. Put a nut on the
leadscrew. The leadscrew extends 1/2 inch beyond the nut. Right image below.

After the leadscrew is installed, the nuts that hold the tee nut in place can be loosened so the tee nut
can freewheel as the leadscrew is turned. The tee nut will be tightened into position later.

Put two nuts and a bearing on the leadscrew. Place a bearing and nut on the leadscrew.

59
Install Y Stepper

Cut a piece of 1/4 inch inside diameter


fuel line to ~1-1/4 inch long. This can
be cut with a knife or hacksaw.

Two #4 hose clamps are used to


tighten the fuel line to the leadscrew
and stepper. Cut fuel line. Size # 4 hose clamps.

Slide the hose onto the stepper’s shaft and loosely install the
two hose clamps.

Insert three 3 inch long machine screws through the stepper’s


mounting holes.

Finger tighten a nut against the stepper on each screw. Install


another nut and then a washer on each screw.
Hose and clamps on stepper.
Insert the machine screws into the holes in the machine’s end
plate.
Thread the leadscrew into the fuel line.

Abut the end of the stepper shaft against the end of the
leadscrew inside the fuel line.

Install a washer and nut on the ends of the stepper’s 3 inch


machine screws so the end plate is sandwiched between two
washers and nuts. Bottom image.

Adjust the nuts on the 3 inch screws so the stepper is in line


with the leadscrew, and is squarely aligned with the end of the Machine screws on stepper.
machine.

Tighten all of the nuts so they are finger tight. There is no


need for a wrench yet.

Attach the stepper to the drive, and activate the stepper. This
requires having the computer and software set up. This
information is covered by the software supplier, such as
Mach3, and the drive and stepper supplier such as Xylotex or
HobbyCNC.
See pages 82 and 83 of these plans for more information.

Nuts and washers sandwich the end.

60
Jog the stepper and check that the leadscrew and stepper are
in line.

Tighten the hose clamps on the fuel line. The hose clamps
should be as close together as possible while one clamps the
leadscrew and the other clamps the stepper’s shaft. The hose
will twist between the clamps when the clamps are far apart.
The twisting will permit chatter and backlash.

Jog the stepper in both directions, and incrementally tighten


all of the nuts on the 3 inch machine screws.

The nut between the bearing and the fuel line should press Tighten hose clamps.
the bearing into its recess. Do not load-up the stepper by
pulling the stepper hard against the end plate by over
tightening the end nuts on the machine screws.

The nuts should hold the stepper so it is straight in line with


the leadscrew. Minor offsets can cause excess drag and
stalling.

This is a trial and error process. Sometimes the last


tightening of a nut will pull things out of alignment enough
to cause the stepper to stall. Keep working in circles around
the nuts until the stepper can move through a range of
speeds without stalling.

Around 25 inches per minute has proved to be a reasonable Tighten all of the nuts on the screws.
starting speed for the initial stepper alignment. As parts are
tightened, the speed can be increased to at least 30 inches
per minute. The prototypes were able to achieve over 40 ipm
with the HobbyCNC 200 oz.in. system.

After the axis moves without the stepper stalling, adjust the
nuts that press the inside leadscrew bearing against the end
plate. Firmly finger tighten the nut against the bearing so the
bearing presses against the end plate. Then tighten the
second nut against the first nut to lock the nuts and bearing
into place. Right image.

The two bearings on the leadscrew carry the thrust load that
would otherwise be carried by the stepper. The stepper’s
internal bearings are not always designed to carry these
loads. Excess thrust loads on the stepper can contribute to
backlash, and/or premature stepper failure.
Tighten the two nuts against the bearing.

61
Adjust Y Leadnut

After the stepper can move the leadscrew through a range of speeds, the machine is flipped over so
the leadnut can be accessed.

Rest the ends of the machine on extra blocks of wood so the table can be jogged while the machine
is upside down.

The leadnut has to be in line with the leadscrew. This alignment is done by moving both the leadnut
and the leadnut block. The block is tightened to the table top first, then the leadnut is tightened against
the block. This is an incremental process.

Finger tighten all nuts and jog the machine.

Tighten the block into place. Tighten the leadnut into place.

Working incrementally, while


checking for excess drag by
jogging the stepper, will align
the axis. Again, it is a trial and
error process that is done by
tightening each nut a small
amount at a time.

Note that the heads of the tee


nuts are not always square with
the tee nut’s threads. Rotating
the tee nut on the leadscrew can
often resolve excess drag.

Completed Y table frame and bed.

62
Gantry Beam

The boards for the beam have to be cut and drilled as shown on page 35 before the following work
is started.

Spread glue on the boards, and glue and screw the boards together. The boards are offset from each
other by 1/2 inch, like the Y table frame boards.

Spread glue. Drive screws.

The screws are 1-5/8 inch drywall screws. Finish


washers or flat washers with the drywall screws
will keep the screws from protruding through the
back of the gantry.

The rails are installed the same way as the Y


table frame’s pipe rails were installed, as shown
on page 48.
Install a rail. Both rails installed.

Attach Beam to Ends

These two end boards have to be cut and drilled as shown in the
template section, page 32.
The gantry beam is glued and screwed between these two end plates.

The beam is angled to give clearance for the stepper hardware. Right
image.

Match marks for the gantry beam alignment are drawn at the top,
and at 6 inches from the top edge of the gantry ends.
Gantry screwed together. The
beam is angled.

63
The top mark is 2-1/8 inches from the front of the
gantry end, and the bottom mark is 1-1/4 inches from
the back edge of the gantry end. Right image.

Draw the marks on the insides of both gantry ends.


Spread glue on an end of the gantry beam, align the
beam with the match marks, and drive 1-5/8 inch
drywall screws into the end of the beam through the
holes in the gantry end.

The four screws that tie the gantry beam together can
be toward either the front or the back of the machine.
It is important for the pipes on the beam to be oriented
as shown, with the top pipe rail toward the back of the
gantry beam.

The first end is easier to align when the gantry beam is


stood on its end, and the gantry end is placed on top of
Match marks for the gantry beam on the stepper
the beam’s end. Bottom middle image. end. This view is from the inside of the gantry.
The second gantry end is installed with the gantry The leadscrew end is mirrored.
placed on the ends’ edges on a flat surface. This will
position the ends so they are aligned with each other. Bottom right image.

Draw the match marks. Match marks are mirrored from each other.

Glue end. Drive screws in one end. Glue and screw the second end.

64
Attach Gantry to Y Table Frame

There are two holes drilled in each gantry end for the screws
that tie the gantry to the Y frame’s rail supports.
There are also two screw holes at each end of the Y table
frame’s stepper end plate.

The gantry may have to be adjusted for square later, so the


gantry is not glued into place yet.

This squaring will be done by offsetting one end of the gantry


from the Y stepper board. Hopefully this will not be Gantry on table frame.
necessary, but offsets do accumulate.

Place the X gantry on the Y table frame so the gantry ends


abut the Y axis’ stepper end board.

Drill pilot holes into the gantry end boards through the
existing holes in the stepper end board. Right image.
Screw the end to the gantry. Third right image.

Should adjustments have to be made, these screws will be in


the same position, but with shims between the gantry ends and Drill pilot holes through the holes in the
Y stepper board.
the Y frame’s back stepper board.

At this time, only the front screw is driven through each


gantry end into the Y rail supports. Bottom images.
If it is necessary to realign the gantry later, it will be easier to
reposition only one screw per side, rather than removing two
screws and re-drilling two sets of pilot holes.

Drill one pilot hole per side, and screw the gantry end plates
Drive 1-5/8 inch drywall screws.
to the Y rails supports. Images below.

Drill only the front pilot hole in the side. Drive one screw into the Y rail support.

65
Z Carriage

Cut and drill the parts as shown in the templates section on page 36.

Wooden carriage components made of 1x4 and 1x6 boards.

Attach Sides to Back

Install two #10 x 1-1/4 screws into the two 5/32


inch holes that are on each side of the 1/2 inch
leadnut hole. This can be done later, but it is easier
to do now while there is easy access to the inside of
this part.

The screw threads should point outward as shown


in the images below.

Install 1-1/4 screws in small holes. Screws are


tight in holes.

66
Attach the two side pieces to the back.
The back is 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 inches. The
wood’s grain of the back is oriented
width-ways as shown in the images.

The process is the same as was done


with the other 1-5/8 inch drywall screw
connections.

Align the parts. The top and back edges


are flush. Far right image.

Use the existing holes in the sides as


guides for 7/64 inch pilot holes.
Glue and screw the parts together.
Glue and screw the sides to The back and top edges of the
the back. pieces are aligned.

Install Trucks

Install the trucks on the inside of the carriage. The holes for the
trucks’ mounting screws are 1-1/8 inch from the front edge of the
carriage sides.
The trucks are held in place with 1-1/2 inch flat head #10 machine
screws. Use washers with the nuts on the outside of the carriage.

Install Top

Draw the match


marks for the
carriage sides on
the bottom of Install trucks with #10 x 1-1/2
flat head machine screws.
the carriage top Bottom front axles are 3/4 inch.
plate. Either
side of the plate
can be the
bottom.

The back of
the carriage is
1-7/8 inch from
the front edge of
the top.
The sides are 1/4 inch from the top’s edges. See the above and
right images. Draw the match marks for the
carriage body.

67
Drive #10 x 1-1/4 inch machine screws into the 5/32 inch holes in the top plate.
Drawing below.
The heads of the screws are on the bottom side of the plate. The bottom is the
side on which the match marks were drawn.

Drive in the screws


for the leadnut.

Holes for #10 x 1-1/4 machine screws.

Align the carriage body with the top


plate’s match marks. Near right
image.

Drill pilot holes through the existing


holes in the top plate into the top
edge of the back plate. Far right
image.

Spread glue on only the top edge of


the back of the carriage. Lower left Align sides and back to match Drill pilot holes into back only.
image. marks.

Do not glue the tops of the sides.


The sides need to be able to be
flexed to tighten the bearings
against the Z rails.

Drive 1-5/8 inch drywall screws into


the two holes.
Do not drill or drive screws into the
tops of the sides at this time.

Spread glue on top of Screw top to back.


back only.

68
Assemble Z Rails

The Z router mount and Z stepper plate need to be cut and


drilled before assembly begins. Directions are in the template
section, pages 43-46.

Insert the 1/4-20 x 17-1/4 inch threaded rods into the Z router
mount.
For ease of construction, these rods should be at least 1-3/4
inches longer than the Z pipe rails.

Nuts with washers are used on the bottom of this part.


The ends of the threaded rods are flush with the bottom of the
nuts. Above image. Attach threaded rod to the Z router
mount. Nuts and rod ends are flush.
Nuts can also be used on the inside of this piece, but they are
not required. Tightly sandwiching this Z router mount between
the two sets of nuts will make later adjustments easier because
the threaded rods will not freewheel in their holes.
The inside nuts do not require washers. They will seat
themselves in the wood, which will help to hold them in place.

After this Z router mount is on the threaded rods, the pipe rails
can be slid over the rods.
Optional nuts on the inside ease
The Z stepper plate is then attached to the rods with nuts and further adjustments.
washers.

Different lengths of pipe and different depths of recesses can be addressed by using large washers as
shims. Left image below.
The Z stepper plate should be square with the rails. Center image below. Firmly tighten the nuts on
the rods.

Place pipes on threaded rods. The Z stepper plate should be square Z rails clamped between
Washers can be used as with the pipe rails. the Z stepper plate and the
spacers. Z router mount.

69
Install Z Rails

The Z rails are installed into the carriage.


Place one rail in the bearings with the other rail resting
on the edges of the other set of bearings. Note the
orientation of the Z stepper plate. It overhangs the
carriage top.

Twist the rail assembly so it slides past the top-outside


bearings and rides on both sets of bearings. It may be
necessary to flex the carriage sides, or to remove the
two outside bearings to snap the rails into place.
Slide rails into carriage. Rails installed.
The Z tension rods are now installed.

The rods are #10 threaded rod cut to 5-1/2 inches long.
These rods should be long enough to protrude from the sides of the
carriage with just enough stock to support a nut and washer at each end.
The rods can be cut down later if they protrude too far and restrict
carriage movement by bumping into the gantry ends.

The back tension rod is inserted through the 1/4 inch holes that are 1-5/8
inches from the back of the carriage side. Right image.

The front tension rod goes in the holes that are at the very top front
corners of the carriage sides. Left image below.

The Z rails and trucks have to be aligned before the tension rods are
tightened.
Install back tension rod.
Align the leadscrew hole in the Z stepper plate with the leadscrew hole
in the top of the carriage. Middle image below. Tighten the trucks and top tension rod so the rails
remain aligned as they move. Final adjustment is done later.

Install front top tension rod. Align holes in carriage top Tighten trucks and top tension rod.
and Z stepper plate.

70
Install X Bearing Trucks and Z Bottom

Install the X trucks onto the carriage top and bottom plate.
The trucks are the shortest ones made for this machine.
Like the bearing trucks on the other axes, they are held in place with
flat head #10 x 1-1/2 inch machine screws.
Washers are used with the nuts.

Draw a match mark on the inside of each carriage side.


The marks are 3/4 inch from the back edge of the carriage and next
to the two bottom back holes. Left photo below.
These marks give a rough guide for the alignment of the bottom
plate against the carriage sides. Attach the Y trucks to the
carriage top and bottom plate.

Sides overlap the bottom by 3/4 inch.

Loosely install the bottom plate tension rod in


the 1/4 inch holes in the bottom back of the
carriage sides. Far right image. Draw match marks at 3/4 Install the bottom plate
inch for bottom plate. tension rod.
This rod is the same as the Z bearings’ tension
rods. It is cut from #10 threaded rod and is around 5-1/2 inches
long.
This rod adds stability to the bottom of the carriage by clamping the
sides to the bottom plate. Wood screws alone are insufficient.
This tension rod will be firmly tightened after the carriage is riding
on the rails.

Install the bottom plate so it aligns with the match marks. The 1/4
inch hole near the back edge of the bottom plate is positioned away
from the carriage. The bottom plate can be against the tension rod.
The plate will be adjusted later. Tighten the tension rod enough to
hold the bottom plate between the carriage sides.
Install bottom plate.

71
Install Carriage

Move the table bed to the front of the machine. Otherwise, it will get
in the way of the Z rails while parts are assembled. The table bed’s
leadscrew can be turned by hand to move the bed.
If using a drill to turn the leadscrew, disconnect the stepper from the
drive. The stepper will act as a generator, and could damage the
drive.

Move the table bed to the front


For the machine to work properly, the Z rails need to be of the machine.
perpendicular to the table bed, and the gantry leadscrew has to clear
the carriage as the leadscrew spans the two gantry end plates.
This is accomplished in a number of steps. The order of the steps is not critical. It is likely that it will
be necessary to “work in circles” while incrementally adjusting the parts.

Hang the carriage on the gantry pipes by the carriage’s top


bearings. If needed, swing the carriage’s bottom plate down to
clear the bottom gantry rail.

Lift the bottom plate’s bearings against the bottom gantry rail.
The bottom plate tension rod should be tight enough to hold the
bottom plate in place.

Align the bottom plate so it is square with the gantry ends.


Lower left image. It does not have to be exactly true, but if it is
off too far, it may be difficult to align the bearings and X
tension rod.
Hang carriage on gantry.
The back of the carriage is initially
spaced 1/8 inch from the gantry
beam. Far right image.
This spacing is not critical.
It is important for the carriage to
not drag on the gantry, and later,
for the leadscrew to move freely.

This spacing is done by moving the


top bearing truck on the top plate.
Tighten the top truck’s flat head
screws’ nuts to hold the truck into
place.
Right image.
Square Z bottom plate with Space carriage 1/8 inch from gantry,
the gantry ends. and tighten the nuts on the screws.

72
The carriage can be aligned with the gantry ends by aligning the
two Z bearing truck attachment nuts with the end of the gantry.
Right image.
The nuts should be spaced the same distance from the edge of the
gantry end plate.

Adjust the X bearing trucks, and/or the carriage bottom plate to


align the carriage. The bottom plate does not have to align with the
match marks that were drawn at 3/4 inch inside the carriage sides.

Temporarily install the leadscrew. Insert a bearing into the gantry


recess to support the leadscrew. Right, second image.

Hopefully the holes in the carriage will allow the leadscrew to pass Align carriage with gantry.
from gantry end to gantry end. However, this may not be possible.
Due to the softness of the wood, and other offsets, the leadnut hole
in the carriage may not be aligned well enough for the leadscrew
to properly fit.

There are a number of ways to resolve this misalignment.


One is to enlarge the hole for the leadnut. But this may require
moving the leadnut support screws, so re-drilling is not the first
choice. But it is not a problem if this turns out to be the necessary
solution.

The carriage can be raised by moving the bearings on the top truck
on their #10 axles. Not all bearings have to be moved, and
Install leadscrew with bearing.
adjusting the ones that are easily accessible from the back of the
carriage may suffice. Lower left image.

Should more lift be needed, spacers can be placed between the truck’s aluminum angle and the
carriage top plate. Washers, sheet metal, or pieces cut from an old CD can be used as spacing shims.
Lower middle and right images.

Adjust bearings on axles. Washers as shims. Piece of CD used as shim.

73
Once the carriage can travel without dragging on the leadscrew, the
X tension rod can be installed.
The tension rod is made from #10 threaded rod that is cut to 10-1/2
inches long. It passes through the holes in the back of the top plate
and bottom plate.
It may have to be removed for further carriage alignment, so there
is no need to tend to its final positioning at this time.
The tension rod is tightened enough to check that the carriage can
still move without dragging on the leadscrew while the bearings are Install tension rod.
aligned on the rails.
The top plate is not completely secured
into place, so do not tighten the
tension rod too tightly.
After the alignment is good, drill a
pilot hole into each side of the bottom
plate. Drill through the existing 3/16
inch hole in the bottom of each
carriage side. Right image.
The holes do not have to be centered in
the sides of the bottom plate. Drill pilot for bottom plate. Drive screws into bottom plate.
Drive 1-5/8 inch drywall screws
through the carriage sides and into the
sides of the bottom plate.
Check that the Z rails are vertical and
still move well in their bearings. Adjust
the Z trucks and tighten both Z bearing
truck tension rods.
The top can be glued and screwed into
place now. Open joint and glue. Screw top to carriage sides.
Drill pilot holes into the top of the
sides of the carriage through the
existing 3/16 inch holes in the top plate.
With the X tension rod loose, press down on the back of the top so
its front edge pulls away from the carriage sides. Squeeze glue into
the void. Above image.
Drive 1-5/8 inch drywall screws through the top and into the sides.
Above right image. Use longer screws if the 1-5/8 inch screws do
not hold the top securely. There will be substantial loads here.
The X tension rod is tightened into place. The rod is tightened so the
bearings ride firmly on the rails. Tighten X tension rod.

Check that the carriage and Z rails move well, and tighten all hardware into place.

74
Install Leadscrews and Steppers

The steppers and leadscrew assemblies for


the X and Z axes can be installed after the
carriage and Z axis move smoothly and
firmly.

The steppers, leadnuts and leadscrews are


installed the same way as was done on the
Y table bed axis, except four, rather than Steppers with hose, clamps and machine screws.
three, 3 inch long machine screws with
nuts and washers tie the steppers to their supporting boards. Hose and hose clamps attach the stepper
shafts to the leadscrews. Above image.

The leadscrews are supported by


bearings that are in recesses in the X
gantry end and Z stepper plate.

Each axis’ leadscrew is installed


before its stepper is put in place.

Z Leadscrew and Stepper

Insert the Z leadscrew through the


leadscrew hole in the stepper plate.
The leadscrew is 5/16-18 x 7 inch
threaded rod.
From underneath the stepper plate,
install a bearing, two nuts and the Leadscrew with bearing, nuts Leadscrew with nuts and bearing
leadnut onto the leadscrew. Upper left and leadnut. supporting the stepper plate.
image.

Insert the bottom end of the leadscrew


through the leadscrew hole in the
carriage top plate.

Press a bearing into the stepper plate’s


top recess, and thread a nut onto the
leadscrew. The leadscrew extends
past the nut ½ inch. Near right image.

The stepper, and its hose, clamps and


machine screws, are loosely mounted
to the stepper plate.
Top bearing with nut. Stepper on plate.

75
Hose with hose clamps. The hose abuts The bottom Z bearing is
the nut that is against the bearing. supported by two nuts that are
tightened against each other.

The bottom Z leadscrew bearing is


abutted to the bottom of the Z stepper plate, and held in place with
the two nuts. Middle image above. Z Stepper mounted on axis.
This bearing, instead of the stepper, should carry the weight of the
axis.

Nuts with washers are threaded on the screws that are next to the
leadnut on the carriage top plate. Right image.
A 1/4 inch and #10 washer is used with each nut.

The stepper is powered on, and jogged as the hardware is


incrementally tightened into place. The leadnut is held in place
The stepper’s speed should initially be set low as parts are first aligned with nuts and washers on the
and tightened. The speed is increased as alignment is improved. machine screws.

X Leadscrew and Stepper

The installation process is


the same for the X axis.
The leadnut, nuts and
bearings are installed on
the leadscrew as it is
passed through the gantry
and carriage.

The stepper is installed


and then activated for the
final adjustments.
X leadnut on carriage side. X Stepper on gantry end.

76
Install Router

The router is tied to the Z rail’s bottom block with a 1/4-20 x 2 inch
bolt and washer. The 2 inch bolt threads into the router base’s
existing tapped hole.

A band clamp or strap ties the middle section of the router to the
pipe rails.

For clarity, the Z rails were removed from the machine in the
following photos. However, the router installation is done with all
axes assembled.
Router on carriage.

The band clamp or section of metal plumbing


hanger tape is bent to fit between the pipe
rails. Right images.

The band clamp is for 4 inch duct. The clamp


should not have thread-slots completely
around its band, or it will break at the slots
when bent.
Four inch band clamp.

A 12 inch section of plumbing hanger tape


can be used in place of a band clamp. The
metal plumbing tape is softer and much easier
to bend into shape.

A 1/4-20 x 1 inch bolt, with washers and a


nut, is used to close the plumbing tape around
the router. Near right image. Plumbing tape with Aluminum angle band anchor.
bolt, nut and washers.
A 1-1/2 inch long section of 1/8 x 3/4 inch
aluminum angle prevents the band strap
from pulling through the rails. Red arrow in above right image.

A 1/4-20 x 3/4 inch bolt with a nut


and washer passes through the
aluminum angle anchor. The nut
and washer will be between the
strap, and will prevent the angle
from twisting sideways between
the rails.
Parts of band anchor. Band anchor.

77
The images on the right show the
orientation of the aluminum angle
anchor in the band clamp.

Pliers are used to bend the band clamp


to shape. It is then slid between the rails.
The clamp is twisted into position, and
the aluminum anchor is slid in the
clamp’s bent section between the pipe
rails. Lower images. Position of angle in band clamp. Angle held in place by
band or strap.

Slide band clamp between pipes. Twist band clamp into place. Insert angle in band clamp.

Plumbing tape is easier to bend than the band clamp, and it does
not have to be pre-bent before installing it between the rails.
Tensioning the plumbing tape against the angle anchor will bend
it into shape.

The router is installed after the band clamp or plumbing tape


and angle anchor are in place.

Attach the router to the wooden block with a 1/4-20 x 2 inch


bolt. A washer is under the bolt’s head. Attach router to base.
Tighten the bolt so the router’s base is against the wood, but do
not completely tighten the bolt.

A cradle that stabilizes the router, and spaces it from the rails,
is made from a 1-1/2 inch section of 1/4-20 threaded rod.
A pair of nuts loosely sandwich washers at each end of the
threaded rod. Right image.
The washers are not tightly clamped into place, but are allowed Router cradle.
to rest at an angle so they will cradle the router’s body. Images
on next page.

78
The cradle’s washers are angled Cradle rests in housing Tighten base and band.
outward around the router. junction.

The cradle sits on top of the band clamp. The washers in the cradle
rest in the junction between the router’s cap and body. Above
middle image. The router’s plastic is the thickest at this location.

The band clamp is positioned so it supports the cradle. The 2 inch


bottom bolt is tightened, and then the band clamp is tightened.

The router should be perpendicular to the table bed. Washers can be


used to offset the router from the base. Washers can be used as
shims to space the router from the cradle.

Since the Z travel is not very far; generally, if the router appears to
be perpendicular, it is true enough for most work.

Plumbing hanger tape clamp.


The router’s cable can be attached to the top of a tension rod that is
inside a Z rail.

A cable clip can be


made of plastic or
thin aluminum, such
as a beverage can.
Right images. Bend metal around a shaft.

The cable clamp is


held on the rod
with a second nut
and pair of washers.

Trim and drill. Clamp between nuts and washers.

79
Square Table

The table bed is routed on two edges, and checked for square.

When not square, the gantry is loosened from the table bed frame
and shimmed to repair the offset.

The steppers do not have to be powered for this process. The


leadscrews are turned one at a time, so a power drill can be used Trim table edge.
to turn the leadscrews.
Using a drill may be more convenient than turning on the
computer, drives and steppers.

Install a bit in the router, and align the bit and table bed by moving
the carriage and table bed so the bit abuts the table’s edge.
Move the table bed so the bit is not touching the bed, and turn on
the router. With the drill or stepper, move the bed so the router
trims the table’s edge.

Repeat this process for the front of the table. The gantry’s Drill used to move axis.
leadscrew will be turned this time.

Check the table bed for square by aligning a square along the
two trimmed edges. Lower left image.

When the trimmed corner is not square, the gantry to Y table frame
screws in one end of the gantry are removed, and a shim is placed
between the gantry and the Y stepper end plate.
The screws are then reinstalled. Lower middle image. Trimming front edge.

The shim can be a piece(s) of paperboard or similar. The shim can be trimmed for appearance when
the squaring process is completed.
The front edge of the Y bed is the surface that will be altered by moving the gantry. Put the shim in
the end of the gantry that will offset the router in the direction that corrects the existing offset.

Check for square. Insert shim. Drive in all screws.

80
This is a trial and error process that may require repeating of the trim and shim procedure.

Once the trimmed corner is square, the gantry can be permanently glued and screwed into place. The
joints are opened just enough to allow glue to be squeezed into them, then all of the gantry end screws
are installed and tightened.

Trim Table Top

The table bed’s other edges and top can be trimmed once the gantry is permanently attached.
The two remaining edges can be trimmed the same way the first two were routed.
The table’s edges can be used to square the stock that will be cut with this machine. Therefore, it is
worthwhile to true all of the sides at this time.

A g-code for planing the table top is available on the website. It is


linked on the Site Map page.

The code is for a 1/4 inch flat end bit, either end-mill or router bit.

The code only cuts in the X and Y direction. The Z axis does not
move except for initial and final clearance moves.

Activate the drives and jog the router around the table top while
Router at origin.
watching to see which section of the table top is the lowest as
compared to the end of the bit.

The bit is lowered so it rests on the lowest section of the table top.
The Z axis is zeroed.
The router bit is jogged to clear the table top, and moved to the
front left hand corner of the table.

The origin, point zero, zero, zero, for this g-code is the outside
edge of the table top. Top image.
The cut area is larger than the table top, so the bit may cut air on
the first few passes. The pattern is a rectangle that decreases in size
Surfacing top.
as it approaches the center of the top.

The bit removes over half its width per pass. This width of cut with
a shallow depth can usually be cut at the fastest speed the steppers
can deliver. The g-code is for 40 ipm.
This can be changed by editing the g-code or by changing the
feed-rate override.

The machine should be checked for loose hardware. Thread locker


is applied to hardware once it is clear that parts are properly
aligned and working well.
Top planed.

81
The leadscrews on this machine are 5/16-18
Stepper Setup and Performance threaded rods, which have 18 threads per inch
(tpi), as their name indicates. Therefore, the
A note regarding the axis names and threaded rod, and thus the stepper, have to turn
orientation: 18 times to move the axis 1 inch.
The X, Y, and Z axes were named in a way
that was consistent with Mach software. The In this example with 1/8 micro-stepping, the
names are also consistent with the default stepper requires 1600 steps to turn one
orientation of some CAD software. However, revolution, and the leadscrew has to turn 18
these axis letter assignments can be altered. Set times to move the axis one inch, so the stepper
them in a way that is intuitive for the work has to receive 1600 x 18 = 28800 steps to
environment. move the axis one inch.
This is the value that is entered into the “Steps
per Unit” box in Mach.
Steps per Unit
The reciprocal of this value is the resolution of
The settings for the stepper will vary the table. This is the smallest distance the table
depending on the drives, steppers and software can be commanded to move, which is 1/28800
used. The documentation from the suppliers or 0.000034722 inch.
should be followed. The information here is an
overview of some of the basics as they relate to Though the software can send, and the stepper
this machine. can respond to commands of this resolution,
the table cannot engrave the head of a pin
Mach2 or 3 is the recommended software; because the actual accuracy and tolerances of
before the steppers can be run, the software the leadscrew and leadnut are worse than the
has to be configured. software can deliver.

The values for “Steps per Unit” for Mach are


derived as follows: These Step per Unit values are derived the
same way for the HobbyCNC drives. The
The steppers from HobbyCNC and Xylotex, prototypes use ½ step micro-stepping.
like most steppers, move 1.8 degrees per step,
which is 200 steps per revolution. This step The stepper receives 200 x 2 steps per
increment can be made smaller with micro- revolution, and the 18 tpi leadscrew gives a
stepping, which is set with jumpers on the Steps per Inch value of 7200, (200 x 2 x 18)
drives. and resolution of 0.00013889 inch. Again, this
resolution is better than the table’s accuracy or
For the drives used in this shop, Xylotex tolerance.
recommends 1/8 micro-stepping, which means
there are 8 steps for every one of the 200 steps
the stepper makes per revolution. Therefore,
the software has to send 200 x 8 steps = 1600
steps per stepper revolution.

82
As addressed previously, the faster a stepper
Speed and Torque turns, the lower its torque. Therefore, it is
necessary to adjust the initial settings for the
Steppers deliver their highest torque at low steppers’ speeds to a low value, so the steppers
speeds. As shown in the generic graph below, will have enough power to turn against the
the torque rapidly diminishes as the speed heavier loads of a poorly aligned machine.
increases. Therefore, it can be difficult for a
stepper to move an axis rapidly. The steppers’ speeds can be increased after the
axes are aligned and running smoothly.

Steppers can be damaged when they are


powered while stalled; therefore, it is better to
not push them to their stalling point any more
than necessary.

The speed of the axis is frequently specified in


units per second rather than per minute; so
speeds of less than 60 ipm will be in values less
Stepper torque decreases with speed.
than one.
30 ipm will be 0.5 ips, for example.
With a 18 tpi leadscrew the stepper will have
to turn at 900 rpm to give an axis speed of 50 With the HobbyCNC 200 oz.in. stepper and
inches per minute. (18 x 50 = 900) This is fast drive package, an initial value of 0.4 inches per
for a stepper, and its torque will be far below second has proven to be a good starting point.
its stated output.
This gives a speed of 24 ipm (0.4 x 60). Once
Many steppers, when driven with small drives, the machine is tuned this value can be
cannot output enough force to move the table increased. The same initial value worked well
at higher speeds, even though they can turn for the Xylotex 269 oz.in. system.
rapidly with no load.
The acceleration values in Mach can be in the
A prototype of this table uses the HobbyCNC middle of the range. High acceleration rates
200 oz.in. system, and is able to rapid over 40 can cause the steppers to stall with direction
inches per minute (ipm). The 305 oz.in. system changes.
performs similarly on this machine. The larger Extremely low accelerations cause the
steppers perform better than the 200s on the steppers’ motion to be sluggish.
larger machines. If the steppers are to be
recycled into other machines, it is highly Experiment with the speed and acceleration to
recommended to purchase ones with torque find what best suits the machine. Values can be
over 250 oz.in. significantly different for each axis. It is a trial
and error process.

83
Acme Upgrade
The machine can be upgraded to use Acme
rod. This will approximately double the price
of the components, but the quality and speed
of the work will improve.
The machine is sized so a standard 3 foot
leadscrew can be cut in half to give two 18
inch leadscrews. These leadscrews will be long
enough to span the X and Y axes’ end plates, C ollar clamp (A rrow 1), and leadscrew to
stepper coupler (Arrow 2).
but will not be long enough to support knobs.
Instead, the knobs can be attached to the
steppers. The hose system can be used, but it is
challenging to match the larger leadscrew to
Upgrading the Z axis is also possible, but the
the 1/4 inch stepper shaft.
performance improvement for most work is
not as substantial as the upgrades on the other
These larger diameter leadscrews will not flex
two axes.
as much as the 5/16 inch threaded rods, so
Two leadscrew sizes that have served well are they do not need the 5/16 inch diameter hole
3/8-10 two start, which gives five turns per on the axis end that is opposite the stepper.
inch, and 3/8-8 four start, which gives two Image below. This hole can be enlarged to
turns per inch. Of course, other thread counts permit more clearance for the leadnut when it
will also work. abuts the gantry end. (Arrow 1).
These leadscrews are 3/8 inch diameter and The tee nut leadnut will have to be upgraded
will require 3/8 inside diameter bearings. to one that is sized to fit the Acme leadscrew.
3/8 ID by 7/8 OD (Outside Diameter) bearings Its flange can be notched to fit between the
are a standard size and are available from existing machine screws that support the
vxb.com and skatebearings.com among other leadnut. Arrow 2 below.
suppliers.
These bearings will fit in the same recesses
that were drilled for the skate bearings. Two
bearings are required for each leadscrew.
Collar, shaft, or thread clamps (same product,
different names) are used, instead of a pair of
nuts, to clamp the inside bearing in place.
Arrow 1 in the above right image.
A leadscrew to stepper coupler replaces the
hose and #4 clamps that attach the leadscrew
to the stepper’s shaft. Arrow 2, top image.
Leadnuts, clamps and couplers from
dumpstercnc.com have served well. Larger hole in gantry end (Arrow 1) permits more
clearance for the leadnut. T he leadnut can be notched
to fit between the attachment screws. (Arrow 2)

84
Plans for an 18 x 24 Inch
V Bearing CNC Machine

David Steele

1
NOTICE: That which makes CNC machines useful also makes
them dangerous; they move without direct human control.
A CNC table MUST have an easily accessible Emergency Stop
button. The table must be in a safe location where it is inaccessible
to children and unauthorized users. These are not toys, even a small
machine can inflict serious injury. You, the user of these plans, as-
sume all liability and responsibility for the construction process,
and the product you create.
Do not use these plans if these conditions of use are unacceptable
to you.

Copyright © 2011 David K. Steele

David Steele is the copyright owner of these plans. In consideration


for payment, David Steele grants a licence to use the plans for the
purpose of building a machine for personal use.
The licence is not assignable.

2
Contents

Overviews............................................... 5
Aluminum Angle, Overview..........................36
Introduction.....................................................5
Drill Aluminum for Legs...............................36
Machine Overview ..........................................6
Drill Aluminum for Rack...............................37
X Axis Overview..............................................7
Attach Racks and Rails to Angle....................38
Y Gantry Axis Overview..................................8
Standoff Screw for Rail..................................38
Carriage Overview.........................................10
Review, Rack and Rail ...................................39
Z Axis Overview............................................11
Front and Back Views....................................12 Bed and Legs......................................... 39
X Axis Legs....................................................39
Gantry................................................... 13
Table Bed.......................................................40
Gantry Construction .....................................13
Measure Width..............................................41
Gantry End-Plates.........................................13
Install 2x3 Frame............................................41
Leadscrew Stepper End-Plate........................14
Template, Leadscrew Stepper End-Plate.......15 Pinions.................................................. 44
Pinion Stepper End-Plate..............................16 Pinion Axle Components, Overview..............44
Template, Pinion Stepper End-Plate.............17 Pinion Set Screws...........................................45
Cut End-Plates∙Leadscrew Stepper End.......18 Pinion Axle.....................................................45
Cut End-Plates∙Pinion Stepper End..............18 Pinion Axle Construction...............................46
Mark and Drill Holes.....................................19 Adjust Bearings and Pinions..........................48
Gantry Beam .................................................22 Square Gantry to Table Bed...........................49
Limit Switch Holes........................................22 Square Gantry to Rails...................................50
Gantry Rails...................................................23 Carriage................................................ 51
Beam Studs....................................................25 Carriage Overview.........................................51
Review, Gantry Assembly...............................27 Carriage Plate Construction...........................52
Bearings................................................ 27 Carriage Template..........................................53
Bearings Overview.........................................27 Drill Carriage Plate........................................54
Bushing Fabrication.......................................28 Install Carriage V Bearings............................54
Axle Bolts Overview.......................................29 Install Carriage on Gantry.............................55
X Bearing Bolts..............................................29 Y Leadnut.............................................. 56
Carriage Plate Bolts........................................30 Y Leadnut Bracket.........................................56
Bolt Pin..........................................................31 Bracket Construction, Carriage Leg...............57
Epoxy Glue Option........................................31 Construction, Leadnut and Angle Bracket.....58
Bearing Construction Review........................32 Drill Leadnut.................................................58
Install X Bearings...........................................33 Drill Angle Bracket's Leadscrew Hole...........58
Racks and Rails...................................... 34 Check Alignment...........................................58
X Rack and Rail Overview.............................34 Drill Bracket's Leadnut Screw Holes.............59
Cut and Drill Racks........................................34 Install Leadnut and Bracket...........................59
Cut and Drill Steel Rails................................35 Adjusting Offsets............................................59

3
Y Leadscrew........................................... 60 Limit Switches....................................... 84
Leadscrew Bearing Flange.............................60 Limit Switches Overview...............................84
Leadscrew Installation....................................61 Sequence Note................................................85
Align Leadnut and Leadscrew.......................62 Z Limit Switch, Wire and Tube Mounting....85
Z Axis.................................................... 64 Z Limit Switch Operation ............................86
Z Axis Overview............................................64 Limit Switch Stop..........................................86
Steel Rails.......................................................64 Z Switch.........................................................87
Z Body...........................................................65 Switch Placement...........................................87
Holes for Steel Rail........................................65 Z Switch Installation......................................88
Holes for Trim Router Mount........................65 Secure Tubing to Gantry................................88
Eye Bolts........................................................66 Gantry Limits.................................................89
Attach Rails....................................................66 Cable Cover....................................................90
Z Top Plate....................................................67 Limit Switch Wires........................................91
Heat Sink.......................................................68 Table Bed Limits............................................92

Router Mount........................................ 69 X Axis Stops........................................... 93


Router Mount Construction..........................69 Fenders and Dust Guards....................... 94
Z Leadnut.............................................. 71 Overview........................................................94
Z Leadnut Overview......................................71 Dust Guard Construction..............................95
Z Leadnut Angle Bracket...............................71 Fender Carving...............................................96
Z Leadnut......................................................72 Knobs.................................................... 97
Install Leadnut...............................................72 Step Per Inch Values............................... 98
Adjust Z Axis V Bearings...............................73 Leadscrew.......................................................98
Install Z ................................................ 74 Rack and Pinion.............................................98
Install Z Stepper.............................................74 Acceleration....................................................98
Align Z Axis...................................................75 Speed, Velocity...............................................99
X and Y Steppers.................................... 76 Axis Names....................................................99
Install Gantry Leadscrew Stepper..................76 Notes..................................................... 99
Install Pinion Axis Stepper.............................76 Pulley Notes...................................................99
Wire Protection..................................... 78 Leadscrew and Leadnut Notes.......................99
Cable Clamps.................................................78 Rail Notes.....................................................100
Z Cable Guide...............................................78 Scaling Notes...............................................100
Secure Stepper Cables....................................80 Stepper and Drive Notes..............................101
Router Cord Support.....................................81 Wrap Up.......................................................101
Supplier Notes..............................................102
Tee Slots................................................ 83
Materials Lists..................................... 103
Tee Slots Construction...................................83
Condensed Materials List............................108

4
Introduction

This machine is made of stock sizes of aluminum, steel


and wood, which are cut to length and drilled. This
simplifies construction and reduces the cost. The axes
can be lengthened for a larger cutting area.

The axes are supported by V bearings that ride steel


rails. V bearings give stable travel.

The gantry is driven with pinions on racks, and the car-


riage and Z axis are driven with leadscrews. Racks and
pinions are fast, and leadscrews are simple.

NEMA 23 steppers move each axis. This is a standard


size that is available in many stepper and drive packages.

The machine is designed to use a trim router. The power


is compatible with stepper and drive packages.

Simple tensioning and adjustment systems tighten the


belts, V bearings and pinions to minimize backlash and
chatter. A solid and tight machine performs well.

There are notes regarding components and scaling at


the end of the manual. The Materials List also includes
information that can help with the construction and
purchasing process.

Though the machine and plans are straightforward, it is


important to preview the plans before beginning con-
struction or ordering components.

An organized work area with well maintained tools will


help to make the project enjoyable.

Good luck!

5
Machine Overview
The machine consists of three
axes.
These are the X table bed axis,
the Y gantry, and the Z axis,
which supports the trim router.

The axis names (X, Y and


Z) can be changed when the
software is configured.

Front view of the X table bed.

Front view of the Y gantry with the carriage.

The machine disassembled for storage. Z axis with router.

The machine can be disassembled by moving the axes beyond their limits.
The separate components can then be stored as a more compact package.

6
X Axis Overview
The X table bed axis consists of a
¾ inch plywood base with its sup-
porting wooden 2x3 frame.
Rectangular aluminum tubing legs
hold the aluminum angle rail sup-
ports.
The racks and rails are tied to the
aluminum angles with machine
screws.
Optional tee slots made from 1x4
lumber are attached to the top of
the plywood base. X table bed axis.

Stock sized 2x3 framing lumber is screwed and glued


to the bottom of the plywood base to add rigidity.

The legs are 4 inch sec-


tions of 2 x 3 x ⅛ inch
rectangular aluminum
tubing. Right image.
Rectangular wooden 2 x 3 x ¼ inch aluminum angle supports the rack
plugs (painted black in and rails.
the far right image) are
The X axis' rails are ⅛ x ¾ inch steel flat bar.
pressed into the ends
of the 2 x 3 inch tub- Threaded rods with nuts on top, and tee nuts on the
ing legs. The plugs add bottom, tie the aluminum angles, the legs and the
rigidity. wooden base together.

7
Y Gantry Axis Overview

The gantry is made of 4 inch alu-


minum channel that is supported
by end-plates that are made of ¼ x
6 inch aluminum flat bar.

The end-plates support the X and


Y steppers, the pinions' axle, and
the V bearings that ride on the X
table bed's rails.
Front view of the Y gantry with the carriage.

Back view of the gantry.

Pinion stepper end. Leadscrew stepper end.


A 12 tooth pulley on the stepper drives a 36 tooth Both the stepper and the leadscrew have 15 tooth
pinion axle pulley. pulleys.
A pair of 1⅛ inch bearings, which are on an offset The belt is tensioned by moving the stepper in its
bushing, tension the belt. oversized mounting holes.

8
A ⅞ inch OD bearing rides the top of the X rail. A A fender and dust guard cover the top bearing and
shop built offset bushing in the bearing's bore al- pinion The wooden fender is cut with the CNC
lows tension adjustment against the rail. machine.

V bearings ride the bottom of the ⅞ inch OD bearings support the The pinions are pulled into the
X rails. pinions' axle. (Arrow) racks by the V bearings.

Steel ½ x ½ x ⅛ inch angle rails


for the V bearings are attached to
the top and bottom of the gantry
beam. Right image.

All V bearings have shop made


offset bushings in their bores.
Top bearing, far right image.

These permit the V bearings to


be tightly tensioned against their
rails. The offset bushings also per-
mit axis alignment.

9
Carriage Overview
The carriage is ¼ x 6 inch aluminum flat bar. This plate supports the Y and Z leadnut brackets and V bearings.

Front view of the carriage plate. Back view of the carriage on the gantry.

The Z leadnut is attached to the front of the plate


as shown above. The front of the plate also supports
the four V bearings that carry the spindle assembly.
An optional limit switch bracket, the white box on
the left in the above image, can be attached to the
plate.
The Y leadnut's angle bracket is attached to the
back of this plate, as shown in the right image.
A #8-32 x 1½ inch screw supports the Z limit
switch's wire, which is protected in tubing.
Two other long screws on the carriage serve as
stops to trigger the Y limit switches, which are on
the ends of the gantry. Image below.

Y limit switches at gantry ends. Back of carriage, shown detached from the gantry.

10
Z Axis Overview
The body of the Z axis is a 2 x 1 x ⅛ inch aluminum
channel that is cut to 1 foot long. The face of this
channel is painted blue on the prototype shown
here.
A ¼ x 2½ inch square aluminum plate cut from flat
bar is attached to the top of the channel with eye
bolts. Two leadscrew bearings sandwich this plate.
The top bearing abuts the stepper to leadscrew cou-
pler, and the bottom bearing is held in place with a
collar clamp.
The stepper is supported by long machine screws
that serve as standoffs. An optional ¼ x 2½ x 4 inch
piece of flat bar is a heat sink for the stepper.
The rails for the V bearings are ⅛ x ½ inch steel
angles that are machine screwed to the sides of the
aluminum channel.
The spindle-router is attached to the channel with
a band clamp made of plumbing hanger tape. A
¼-20 bolt attaches the router's base to the bottom
of the aluminum channel.
An optional plastic stop to trigger the Z limit
switch is attached to the lower edge of the channel. Back and front view of the Z axis.

Stepper mounted to Z axis. Back view of stepper mount on channel.

11
Front and Back Views

12
Gantry Construction
A 24 inch long gantry beam supporting a 6
The gantry assembly is built first because it inch wide carriage will give a carriage travel
is easier to align the X table bed rails to the and cutting width of 18 inches.
gantry's bearings than it is to cut the gantry The gantry beam can be lengthened. The lon-
beam to match the position of the X rails. ger the gantry beam the more it will flex, which
will contribute to chatter.
Gantry End-Plates A 4 inch channel gantry beam as long as 36
The gantry end-plates are made of ¼ x 6 inch 6061- inches has served well with a trim router on
T6511 extruded aluminum flat bar. other DIY machines built here.

A 26 inch long section of ¼ x 6 inch aluminum flat


bar will supply enough stock for the gantry ends
and the Z carriage plate. Image below.

26

Due to custom cutting fees, buying a 3 foot section


of flat bar may be the better value.

The end-plates are nearly mirror images of each


other. The differences are the holes for the pinion
belt tensioner and the leadscrew bearing attach-
ment.
Gantry end-plate, pinion stepper end.
The end-plates were designed on a 1/16 inch grid to
keep the measurements manageable. This created
some odd angles, but these angles can be cut to the
rounded dimensions of 40 and 50 degrees that are
shown on the templates.

When using a miter saw to cut the end-plates, the


saw can be set to 40 degrees for most cuts. The sim-
plest way to avoid confusion is to tape the template
to the stock and set the miter saw so it aligns with
the cut. The directions sequence the cuts so they can
be cut on a saw that does not swivel to 50 degrees.

The edge cuts do not have to be pretty to give a


workable product. However, it is important for the
holes to be well aligned with each other. Therefore,
care should be taken when the holes are marked
with a center punch.
Gantry end-plate, leadscrew stepper end.

13
4-3/8
2-7/8
1
3/16
~ 40 o
Ø1/4

1-3/16 2-1/2

Ø7/8 Leadscrew
1/4 Bearing Recess on
This Side
Leadscrew Stepper End-Plate

Al
Ø5/8

ig
n
~6
not fit on the template's sheet of paper.

Th
-1
is
3/
1

O1-5/8
6

15/16 Ed
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This image is scaled to fit on a sheet of paper.

w
plate as a reference for the dimensions that do

ith
6
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This page can be printed and used with the tem-

2-1/8
template. The full scale template is on the next page.

nc
h
Fl

2-13/16
at

6
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It is not the actual size and cannot be used as a full scale

7-5/16 2-7/8
ar

14
Leadscrew Stepper End-Plate
6-1/2 Ø1/4 This Image Is Not To Scale
6-1/4

5-5/16

13/16 2-5/16 2-1/2 13/16


4-3/8
Ø9/64
3-1/2 Tap #8-32
3-3/16 Ø9/64 Ø9/64
Ø5/8 Tap #8-32
Tap #8-32
Ø7/8
Recess on 1-5/8
Back Side 2-1/8
1-13/16 1-15/16

~ 50 o
5/16 5/16
1/8 5/16
5-5/8
2-11/16 6-1/16
8-3/4
Template, Leadscrew Stepper End-Plate
When printing this page from Adobe Acrobat, in the Page Scaling dialogue 2-1/8
box, choose “None.”
Shrinking to fit or scaling to fit may alter this image's print size.
Different printers will give different results, and it may be
necessary to adjust the printer's scaling if the “None” setting

1-5/8
13/16

5/16
does not work. This template is for printing on US standard

Tap #8-32
8.5 x 11 paper.

Ø9/64
Be sure to cross check the printed page's actual
dimensions with the dimensions that are printed ar

1-15/16
on this template. t B
a
The template should be correctly scaled Fl
ch
when the 83/4 inches (222.25 mm) In
6
by 75/16 inches (185.74 mm) are
w ith
16
correct on the printed page. 3/ dge

2-1/2
1

o
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This Edge Is Cut First 40


~6 his
T

Leadscrew Stepper End-Plate


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5-5/8
Leadscrew Bearing
Recess on
This Side

Tap #8-32
Ø9/64
Ø5/8
Ø7/8

2-5/16

8-3/4
1-13/16
6
3/16

5/16
Pinion Bearing
Recess on
Back Side
2-1/2

13/16
15/16

15/16

Ø1/4
Ø1/4
4-3/8

Ø5/8
Ø7/8
Tap #8-32
Ø9/64
2-13/16
2-7/8
O1-5/8

2-1/8

3-1/2
1-3/16

3-3/16
o
40

1/4

7-5/16

15
4-3/8
2-7/8
1
3/16
~ 40o
Ø1/4

Ø9/64 2-1/2 1-3/16


Tap #8-32

template's sheet of paper.


1/4

Pinion Stepper End-Plate


Ø5/8

r
Ba
t

6
Fla

3/1
Ø9/64 15/16

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Ø1-5/8

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Tap #8-32

In

~6
6

It is not the actual size and is not a template.


This image is scaled to fit on a sheet of paper.
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2-1/8

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reference for the dimensions that do not fit on the


Ed
2-13/16

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Ø1/4 1-9/16

Th
6

n
3/16 7-5/16
Pinion Stepper End-Plate

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16
Al
This Image Is Not To Scale 2-7/8 6-1/2
6-1/4

5-5/16

13/16 2-1/2 2-5/16 13/16 4-3/8

3-1/2
Ø9/64
Ø9/64 Ø9/64 Tap #8-32
Tap #8-32 Ø5/8 3-3/16
Tap #8-32
Ø7/8
5/16 Pinion Bearing
2-1/8 1-5/8 Recess on
1-15/16 1-13/16 Back Side

~ 50 o
5/16 5/16
1/8
5-5/8
6-1/16
8-3/4
7-5/16
1/4

3-3/16
40o

1-3/16

3-1/2
1-9/16
3/16
Ø1-5/8

2-1/8
2-13/16

2-7/8

Tap #8-32
Ø9/64

Ø5/8
Pinion Bearing
Recess on
Back Side
Ø7/8
Ø1/4

15/16

Ø1/4

13/16
2-1/2

5/16
3/16

1-13/16
6

2-5/16
Tap #8-32

Align This Edge With The Cut End


Ø9/64
Tap #8-32
Ø9/64

8-3/4
Tap #8-32
Ø5/8

Ø9/64
Pinion Stepper End-Plate

5-5/8

ar B
at
Fl
2-1/2

h
nc I
Template, Pinion Stepper 16 / 6
13 ith
End-Plate -
~6
w
1-15/16

e
When printing this page from Adobe dg E
Acrobat, in the Page Scaling dialogue box,
s i
Th
choose “None.”
Tap #8-32

n
ig
Al
Ø9/64

Shrinking to fit or scaling to fit may alter this


image's print size. Different printers will give
different results, and it may be necessary to adjust the
13/16

1-5/8

5/16

printer's scaling if the “None” setting does not work.


This template is for printing on US standard 8.5 x 11 paper.
Be sure to cross check the printed page's actual dimensions with
5/16

the dimensions that are printed on this template. The template should
be correctly scaled when the 83/4 inches (222.25 mm) by 75/16 inches
2-1/8

(185.74 mm) are correct on the printed page.

17
Cut End-Plates∙Leadscrew Stepper End

Print the templates and check that they are scaled


correctly.

Cut out the templates, and tape the Leadscrew


Stepper Template to the ¼ x 6 inch aluminum flat
bar.

To save labor and stock, align the template so the


long bottom cuts of both end-plates will be on the
same line. See image below.

End-plates' bottoms share a common cut.

The flat bar will have to be flipped for the Pinion


Stepper Template to align with the long cut. This
second template will be taped to the flat bar after
the first aluminum end-plate is cut. Cut aluminum to match template.
The first cut on the Leadscrew Stepper Template
is the long diagonal 40 degree cut at the bottom of Cutting is a noisy messy process. Wear eye and ear
the end-plate, as shown in the top right photo. protection, and cut steadily to keep the aluminum
chips from clogging the blade's teeth.
The aluminum's other edges can be cut with a miter
Cut off all of the corners so the aluminum matches
saw set to 40 or 0 degrees. Rotate the plate and abut
the template.
either the ends or the sides to the fence so the cuts
align with the blade. The blade will have to be swiv- Rough edges can be dressed by filing or sanding
eled to 40 degrees on each side of 0 degrees. after the holes are drilled.

Cut End-Plates∙Pinion Stepper End


Align and tape the pinion stepper end-plate's tem-
plate onto the aluminum flat bar.
The bottom edge of the template can be aligned
with the long diagonal cut that was previously
made on the aluminum flat bar.
The square end can be cut first, as shown in the
photo on the right.

Cut the end square.

18
Rotate the plate and cut the corner. Cut the remaining edges.

The stock is next rotated so the just cut square end Finish trimming the other corners of the plate.
abuts the fence, and the aluminum is cut at 40 de- Check the templates for alignment, and securely
grees as shown above. re-attach them to the flat bar if necessary.

Mark and Drill Holes


Use a center punch to mark all of the hole centers.
Right image.
Punch through the template and make the marks
deep so the drill bits will not wander.

After the holes are punch-marked, drill a ⅛ inch pi-


lot hole completely through the aluminum on each
plate at the pinion bearing's mark. Image below.

Center punch all of the holes.

This drilling is sequenced in this way because


it is easier to position the ⅞ inch Forstner bit
in the ⅛ inch pilot hole than it would be in
the ⅝ inch through hole.

Drill pinion bearing's pilot.

19
After the pinion bearings' ⅛ inch pilot holes are
drilled, flip each end-plate over so its template is
underneath the end-plate. Right image.

Drill the ⅞ inch bearing recess where the pilot hole


pierced the back of each end-plate. Use a ⅞ inch
Forstner bit. Right Image.

The stock should be securely clamped for drilling.

The bearing recesses should be drilled as deeply


as possible while still leaving enough stock for the
bearings to press against.

Leave around 1/16 inch of stock for the bearings to


abut. This is done by eye.

Take care; the edge of the Forstner bit may cut


deeper than the rest of the bit, and it can cut
through the stock unexpectedly. See the note at the Flip plate and drill pinion bearing recess.
right bottom of this page.

Drill the 5/8 inch through holes in the recesses after


the recesses are drilled.

The bearings should fit tightly in the recesses. They


can be wrapped with tape or similar to remove any
looseness. The bearings will be installed later.

The recess for the leadscrew's ⅞ inch bearing should


also be drilled before its ⅝ inch through hole is
drilled. This ⅞ inch recess is on the template side
of the end-plate. Bearing recess. Bearing in recess.
The other holes can be drilled through the template
from the template side. Leaving the template
attached will make it easier to match the drill bits Note: If the ⅞ inch bit accidently drills all
to the hole diameters. of the way through the stock, screws can be
tapped into the aluminum to serve as stops for
The holes are ¼ inch unless marked otherwise. the bearings, as shown below.
Drilling ⅛ inch pilot holes at the punch marks
before drilling the larger holes helps to keep the
holes centered.

Many of the ¼ inch holes are for #8 and #10


screws. The oversized holes for the small hard-
ware allow clearance for construction offsets
and adjustments.

20
The 1⅝ inch holes in the end-plates are for the The teeth in the saw may clog with aluminum.
NEMA 23 steppers' 1½ inch raised faces. The holes The saw is backed out of the work frequently to
are oversized to allow for adjustment. keep the teeth clean, and to remove clogs as they
A variety of inexpensive hole saws can be used for happen. Forcing through with dirty saw teeth will
these holes. Image below. make the clogs worse. It may take a few minutes to
Saws with a named size of 1½ inches are often cut these holes.
slightly larger than their stated size, and can work Jetting compressed air at the saw teeth while cut-
well. ting can help clear the chips.

Hole saws. Drilling stepper hole with a hole saw.

The 9/64 inch holes are tapped to #8-32 to make later larger and not tapped. Nuts will be required with
construction easier, but these holes can be drilled the machine screws if the holes are not tapped.

Tap 9/64 inch holes with #8-32 tap. #8-32 tap with tee handle.

The edges of the plates can be cleaned by filing or


sanding. A belt sander makes quick work of the
process. Right image.

The gantry end-plates can be cut, drilled and sand-


ed at this time. These two plates will need to be
fabricated before other work can be done on the
gantry.
There is no need to attach any hardware to the end-
plates at this time. The components would get in
the way. Belt sanding the plate's edges.

21
Gantry Beam
The gantry beam is made of 2 feet of 4 x 1.647 x
0.247 inch 6061 T6 aluminum channel.
This 2 foot length was chosen to keep costs low by
eliminating custom cut fees and waste. The 2 foot
length also permits a standard 3 foot leadscrew to
be cut into two pieces for the Y and Z axes.
The gantry beam is cut to length and drilled for the
rails and the end-plate attachment.
A carbide tipped blade on a radial arm or miter saw
can be used to true the ends of the stock should the
factory cuts not be square. Above right image.
The ends can also be squared by filing or sanding.
Channel ends squared with a saw.
Only a fraction is shaved off to leave as much length
as possible, and to keep the blade from chattering.

Limit Switch Holes


As shown on the right, the housings for the gan-
try limit switches are close to the end-plates. Their
mounting holes would be difficult to drill and tap
with the end-plates installed.
Two holes are drilled at each end of the gantry. One
is ¼ inch for the wire, and the other is 9/64 inch and
tapped for a #8-32 screw. Bottom photo.
These four holes for the limit switches can be drilled
and tapped at this time. It is easier to work from the
back of the beam.
Limit switches are optional, but recommended. Limit switch screw is close to end-plate.

Top Corner of Beam

1
1-1/4 1/4 Ø9/64
#8-32
Ø1/4

5/16

Limit switch holes in gantry beam.


Limit switch holes in end of gantry.

22
Gantry Rails
The gantry beam supports the rails for the carriage's
V bearings. Right image.
The rails are sections of ½ x ½ x ⅛ inch steel angle.

The angle used for the rails needs to be


straight and smooth with no dented edges.
Stock ordered online has arrived damaged.
The ⅛ x ½ inch steel angle may be available
locally from home centers where its quality
can be checked before purchasing.
A standard 3 foot length can be cut into a
~2 foot and 1 foot section with one piece
for the gantry and the other for the Z.
Two 3 foot pieces will supply all of the
required steel angle.
Top steel rail on beam.

The values in the dimensioned drawing below are rounded because the rails are not exactly 24 inches long.
These two steel rails are cut slightly short so they will clear the gantry end-plates.
~ 24
1/2
3/4 5-5/8 5-5/8 /
O11/64
12

Hole placement dimensions in steel ½ x ½ x ⅛ inch angle rail. Two pieces required.

These steel rails should be cut with a hacksaw; they


would damage the carbide blades that can be used
to cut the aluminum.
The locations of the holes in the rails are marked
with a punch.

The holes should be positioned so the heads of the


#8-32 x ¾ inch machine screws, which attach the
rails to the beam, will be as close as possible to the
vertical leg of the steel angle.
The fit is close and there is no room for washers
under the heads of the screws.
The holes in the steel angle rails are drilled to 11/64
inch. Right image.
Drill holes in angle.

23
After the steel rails are cut and drilled, their holes
are used as guides for marking and drilling the
matching holes in the gantry beam. Right image.
The faces of the steel angles are spaced 7/16 inch
from the edge of the beam's legs. Their orientation
is shown in the right photos.
A combination square helps with this 7/16 inch spac-
ing. Top image
The holes in the beam can be drilled through the
existing holes in the steel rails. Bottom image.
The rail can be attached to the beam with a single
screw once the first rail hole in the beam is drilled.
This will help to position the rail for further drill-
ing.
The holes in the beam are also 11/64 inch and can be Angle rail holes used to mark holes in beam.
enlarged for alignment later if needed.
It is easier to drill the rail holes in the beam before
further work is done to the beam, but it is easier
to permanently attach the top steel rail after the
beam's studs for the end-plates have been installed.
The bottom rail can be installed now or later. Use
washers with the nuts. The screws may slightly bend
because of the taper of the aluminum's legs.
The top and bottom steel rails, and the aluminum
channel can be cut and drilled at this time.
Vertical leg is 7/16 inch from channel leg edge.

Steel rail used as guide for drilling 11/64 inch holes in beam.

24
Beam Studs
The end-plates are held to the beam with #10-24 studs that are tapped into the ends of the beam.

Studs in gantry end. End-plate attached to beam.


The drawing on the right shows the positions of the
holes in the channel beam and end-plates.
The beam is aligned so it covers the center hole in
the end-plate. See arrow in drawing.
The position of this center hole is punch marked
onto the end of the beam as shown in the photo
below.
It is easier to align the beam and end-plate when
the parts are resting upside down on the work sur-
face. The tops of the beam and the end-plates are
flush.
Note that the ⅞ inch pinion bearing recesses are on
the channel beam side, the inside, of the end-plates.

Beam position on end-plates.

The studs are cut from #10-24 threaded rod.


Course thread (24 rather than 32) is used
because it generally holds better in alumi-
num, and #10-24 threaded rod is more easily
found.
Studs, unlike screws, can be tightened until
they bottom-out in the holes and are then
less likely to strip threads.

Punch mark center stud hole through gantry end.

25
A ⅛ inch pilot hole is drilled approximately ½ inch
deep into the end of the beam where the center
mark was punched. Near right image.
The hole is then enlarged to 5/32 inch and tapped for
#10-24 threads. Far right image.
A #10-24 x ~4 inch threaded rod is screwed into
the tapped hole until it can be tightened no farther
without shearing or stripping.

Each stud will be ~1⅛ inch long. It is easier to


Drill a 5/32 center hole in beam and tap to #10-24.
install a longer section and to then cut off the
remainder, than it is to initially cut short studs.
The remainder is used for the other two holes.

Two nuts can be tightened together and then be


used to tighten the stud into the beam, as shown in
the right image. Tightening the nuts together, and
loosening them later, requires a wrench on each nut.

The two nut tightening system is less likely to


damage the studs' threads than using Vise Grips
to turn the studs. Two nuts tightened against each other.

The nuts are removed from the tightened stud, and


the end-plate is installed with a nut and washer on
this stud.
The end-plate and beam are again aligned as shown
in the beam position drawing on the previous page,
and the stud's nut is tightened to hold the end-
plate in place.
The excess stud is cut off with a hacksaw. Lower
middle image. The leftover section is used for the
other two holes.
The other two holes are drilled and tapped. This can Cut off excess stud with hacksaw.
be done with the end-plate on the beam. Bottom
image.
The studs are tightened into place; nuts with wash-
ers are installed and the excess stud is cut.
The process is repeated for the other end of the
beam.
The six nuts can all be tightened enough to hold
position, but they are not permanently tightened at
this time. Acorn or cap nuts can be used here if
desired, except a cap nut will not fit on the bottom
stud on the pinion pulley end. It will chafe the belt.
Drill and tap holes with end-plate in place.

26
Review, Gantry Assembly
The gantry beam's steel rails can be tightly installed
at this time.
An end-plate may need to be removed later for in-
stalling the pinion axle, so the end-plates do not
need to be tightly attached to the beam at this time.
The gantry at the current stage of construction is
shown on the right. Gantry with rails and end-plates installed.

The next step is the bearing construction. The position of the X bearings has to be determined before the X axis
can be built. All of the bearings will be assembled while the tools are at hand.

Bearings Overview
Three types of bearings are used on the machine.
These are ⅜ inch bore V bearings, 7/8 x ⅜ inch R6
bearings for the leadscrews and X axis rails, and
1⅛ x ½ inch R8 bearings that are used for belt
tensioners.
The gantry is supported by ⅞ x ⅜ inch bearings, as
well as V bearings. Right image.
The tensioner for the pinions' belt is made of two
1⅛ x ½ inch bearings. Bottom right image.
The Y and Z axes ride on V bearing. Image below.
All of the bearings are adjusted by rotating their
axles and bushings, which gives nearly ¼ inch of
adjustment.
This range of adjustment can be used for axis align- X bearings on gantry end-plate.
ment as well as for bearing tension.

Bearings on carriage plate for Y and Z axes. Pinion belt tensioner is two 1⅛" OD bearings.

27
The bearing adjustment system includes shop built
offset bushings that are installed in the bearings' ⅜
and ½ inch bores. Right images.

The axles for the bearings are ¼-20 bolts.

Pins are drilled into the axle bolts to keep the bolts
from freewheeling inside the bushings. Images be-
low.

Offset bushing in V bearing's ⅜ inch bore.

V bearing clamped on pinned axle bolt.

Bushing Fabrication

Wood dowels or aluminum rods are used for the


bushing stock. Both work well once the machine is
adjusted. However, wood bushings used with the X 1⅛ x ½ inch idler bearings with offset bushing.
bearings may split during bearing adjustment.

The wooden dowel or aluminum rod is pressed into


the bearing before drilling. Since the wood and
aluminum are softer than the bearing, the bear-
ing's bore will help to prevent the bit from tearing
through the side of the bushing stock.

The bushing stock is cut long so it can be clamped


for drilling. Right image.

⅜ inch dowel clamped for drilling.

28
A drill press with a vise simplifies this task, image
below, but Vise Grips and a hand held drill will
work.

Drilling bushing in drill press.

Small pilot holes should be drilled before the bush-


Cut bearing from bushing stock after drilling.
ing's holes are enlarged to ¼ inch.
Use a punch to mark the offset hole before drilling
the pilot hole. This punch mark can be done by eye.
The dowel or rod is cut flush with the bearing after
the ¼ inch hole has been drilled. Top right image.

Axle Bolts Overview


The axles are ¼-20 bolts.
The six bolts for the X axis bearings are 1¼ inches
long.
The eight bolts for the bearings on the carriage
plate are 1½ inches long. These need a long thread-
ed section.
There is another 1½ inch bolt that supports the Unthreaded shaft extending beyond X bearings.
pinion's belt tensioner. This bearing assembly uses
a ½ inch rather than a ⅜ inch bushing, as shown in
the middle of the previous page.

X Bearing Bolts
The six bolts for the X bearings can be standard
¼-20 x 1¼ inch bolts.
The unthreaded section of the bolt shaft may ex-
tend beyond the bearing's bore, as shown in both
photos on the right. This is not a problem since nuts
are not directly abutted against the X bearings.
⅞ OD bearing on 1¼ inch bolt.

29
Carriage Plate Bolts
A nut is abutted against each of the eight V bear-
ings that are mounted to the carriage plate, right
image, so these axle bolts have to have a longer
threaded section.
Full thread ¼-20 x 1½ inch bolts work well, but
they may not be locally available.
This can be resolved by using a die to cut threads
farther along a standard bolt's shaft as shown below.

Carriage's bearings are between bolt head and nut.

Die used to extend threads on shaft of top bolt.

¼-20 die with handle.

Longer bolt threads permit nut to abut bearing.

Another option is to use ¼-20 threaded rod, which


can be cut to fit after assembly. Image below.

Cutting threads in bolt. Threaded rod used as axle.

30
Bolt Pin

The bolt has to be prevented from freewheeling in-


side its offset bushing, otherwise adjustment of the
bearing tension would be difficult.

A hole is drilled through the axle bolt for a pin that


is cut from a nail or stiff wire. The pin is pressed
into the bore of the bushing when the axle nuts are
tightened.

The drilled hole should match the pin. Choose the


pin stock, then choose the matching drill bit. The
pin can fit loosely.

Small nails serve well. They can be cut with side


cutter pliers, bottom image, or with a hacksaw.

The pins need to be a fraction over ¼ inch long so


they scrape into the wall of the bushing without
completely sliding into the hole in the bolt.

The pin has to be far enough from the bolt's head


for a washer to be put on the bolt. The washer Pin inserted into ¼ inch axle bolt.
should be put on the bolt before the pin is perma-
nently installed.

Epoxy Glue Option

Another option is to use epoxy glue instead of a pin


on the eight carriage V bearings. These bearings are
clamped against the bolt head with a nut.

The glue in combination with the nut usually holds


well enough.

The six X bearings are not clamped between nuts,


and epoxy is more likely to break free with these
bearings.

The epoxy has to cure before the bearings are in-


stalled on the carriage plate, and care has to be tak-
en to not get glue in the bearings' seals.

Clean excess epoxy immediately after tightening


the nuts and washers in place. Turn the bearings
a while later to break any unwanted residual glue Cutting nail with side cutters.
bonds before they cure.

31
Bearing Construction Review
There are eight V bearings on the carriage plate.
Their bores are ⅜ inch, and wood works well
enough for their offset bushings.
These eight axle bolts are 1½ inches long and need
to be nearly fully threaded.
These eight bushings can be glued rather than
pinned.
At this time each carriage bearing can be tightened Carriage V bearing assembly. Eight needed.
onto its bolt with a nut. A washer is on each side
of the bearing. The nut can be tightened to its final
setting.
The pins are dragged into the bore with the tight-
ening of the nuts.

There is also one 1½ inch bolt for the belt tensioner.


This bolt does not have to be fully threaded.
Two 1⅛ inch OD by ½ inch ID bearings are
mounted on one axle bolt. Bushing construction is
the same as for the other bearings, but the dowel is
½ inch in diameter, and there are two bearings on
one bushing.
1⅛ inch tensioner bearings. One set needed.
A washer is used between the bolt's head and the
bearing.
The bolt and pin can be pressed into the bushing by
tightening a nut with a washer against the bearing.
This nut will need to be removed when the idler is
installed on the end-plate.

There are six 1¼ inch bolts for the X bearings. Two


of these bolts are for ⅞ x ⅜ inch bearings, right im-
age. The other four bolts are for V bearings. Bottom
X axis ⅞ x ⅜ inch bearings. Two needed.
image.
These bearings do not have nuts abutting them.
There is a washer between the bolt head and bearing.
Aluminum bushings work better with the X bear-
ings, wood may split during the bearing adjustment.
The bolts and pins for the X bearings can be pulled
into the bushings when the bearings are installed
on the end-plates. This is addressed next.

The fifteen bearing assemblies can be made at this


time.
X axis V bearings. Four needed

32
Install X Bearings
The bearings are held in the end-plates with nuts Now that the spacing of the gantry's bearings is
and washers. fixed, the X table bed can be built. The distance
between these X bearings determines the place-
The V bearings are installed in the bottom holes in
ment of the X rails. The rails' position determines
the plates as shown in the photos.
the location of the pinions, so the pinions will be
The ⅞ inch bearings are above the front V bearings. installed later.
The pinions will serve as the top bearings on the
back of the gantry. The opposing V bearings will
pull the pinions into the racks.
The ⅞ inch top bearings use two washers between
the bearing and the end-plate. Right image.
The V bearings on the X have a single washer be-
tween the bearing and the end-plate. Right image.
Lock washers under the axle nuts are helpful but
not mandatory.
The bearings can be installed in the end-plates now.
The pins are pulled into the bushings as the nuts are
tightened against the end-plate washers.
The nuts will be loosened later when the bearings
are adjusted on the X rails. Washers with bearings.

Bearings on gantry end-plate.

33
X Rack and Rail Overview
Each of the two racks is mounted between a ⅛ x ¾
inch steel flat bar rail and a 2 x 3 x ¼ inch 6063 T52
aluminum angle. #8-32 x 1¼ inch machine screws
tie the components together. Right images.
The racks are 24 inches long, and the steel rails and
aluminum angles are 30 inches long. Therefore, one
screw at the end of each rail serves as a standoff to
secure the rail. Bottom photo.
Matching holes have to be drilled in the racks, rails
and angles. For the machine to perform well, these
holes need to be accurately aligned. Rack and rail tied to aluminum angle, inside view.
The racks are drilled first. Their holes are used as
guides to position the holes in the steel rails and the
aluminum angles.

Cut and Drill Racks.


Two 24 inch sections of rack are used. These can
be purchased pre-cut to length, or they can be cut
from longer stock.
The pre-cut sections may arrive from the supplier
slightly longer than 24 inches, which is not a prob-
lem. The extra length can be left on the stock. Like-
wise, a 50 inch section could be cut into two 25 Rail on rack and angle, back outside view.
inch pieces, for example.
The racks are punch marked and drilled as shown
in the dimensioned drawing below. Pilot holes are
drilled before the 11/64 inch holes are drilled.
The spacing between the holes can vary from that
shown. Five relatively evenly spaced screws will
support each rack.
It is important for the heads and nuts of the screws
to not interfere with the bearings or pinions, so the
3/16 inch hole center distance from the bottom of
the rack, as shown in the drawing, needs to be true.
The holes in the racks can be punched-marked and
drilled at this time. Machine screw as a standoff. Front outside view.

24
3/16 1/2
1/2 5-3/4 5-3/4 Ø11/64 12

Drill holes in rack.

34
Cut and Drill Steel Rails.

The ⅛ x ¾ inch steel flat bar rails are cut to 30 inch-


es and drilled to match the racks.

One hole is drilled in each steel rail at ½ inch from


the end, as shown in the drawing below.

30
3/8
3/4
3/8
3/4 O11/64 1/2

Drill holes in ends of flat bar.


Holes in ends of steel rails.

Another hole is drilled in the other end of each rail


at ¾ inch from the end. This second hole is for the
standoff screw as shown on the bottom of the pre-
vious page.

The holes need to be well aligned. Use a punch to


mark their centers, and drill to 11/64 inch. Pilot holes
are helpful. Rack is screwed to flat bar rail.

The rack is attached to the rail with a machine


screw in the hole that is ½ inch from the end. Up-
per middle image.

Each rail is aligned with its rack, and drilled through


the previously drilled holes in the rack.

This alignment can be done by eye if care is taken.


Rail extends 1/16 inch above rack's teeth.
A combination square set to the offset can be help-
ful.

The rack is not centered on the rail. The rail extends


above the rack's teeth 1/16 inch so the top X bear-
ing will not ride on the rack's teeth. Lower middle
image.

Vise Grips in addition to the machine screw can be


used to hold the parts in alignment while the rail is
drilled. Bottom right image.

The two steel rails can be cut and drilled at this


time. Use tape or marker to match the rails with
their racks so their positioning will not be confused
later.
Align parts, drill through holes in rack into rail.

35
Aluminum Angle, Overview
The racks and rails are supported by 2 x 3 x ¼ inch
aluminum angles that are cut to 30 inches long.
Holes that match the holes in the rails and racks are
drilled in the 3 inch legs of the angles by using the
racks and rails as guides.
Holes are also drilled in the 2 inch legs of the alu-
minum angles for the hardware that ties these an-
gles to the table bed.
Aluminum angles supporting the racks and rails.
The two 2 x 3 aluminum angles mirror each other.

Drill Aluminum for Legs It may be easier to drill the holes, which are
The holes in the 2 inch legs are drilled first. 1⅜ inch from the edge, from the bottom of
the aluminum angle. Otherwise, the vertical 3
These holes are for 1/4 inch studs that are cut from inch leg may get in the way of the drill chuck.
1/4-20 threaded rod. These holes are drilled to 9/32 These holes are ⅝ inch from the leg's outside
inch or larger to allow room for construction off- edge, as shown in the drawing.
sets.
The holes in the ends are mirrored from each
The placement of these holes is not as critical as the other. The drawing below only shows the holes
holes for the racks, though they do need to align in one end and in the middle.
with the 2 x 3 tubing legs. These holes will need to
be located differently when 2x4 wood is used for
the legs.

Middle and end holes drilled in 2 inch leg of 2 x 3 aluminum angle.

30

5/8

1-3/8

1/2 O9/32 1/2

1
3
15

Holes in 2 inch leg of aluminum angle. Left end (not shown) is mirrored from the right end shown above.

36
The holes' positions are measured, punch marked
and drilled as shown in the drawing on the previ-
ous page.
The holes in each end are mirrored from the other
end.
The 2 inch legs of these two angles are drilled the
same.
The aluminum can be cut to 30 inches, and the 2
inch legs of the angle can be drilled at this time.

Drill Aluminum for Rack Drilling the 2 x 3 angle from the bottom.
The holes for the racks and rails can be drilled after
the holes in the 2 inch legs are drilled.
30
A single hole is first drilled in the 3 inch leg of 1/2
each angle. The location of the hole is shown in the 3/16
drawing on the right.
O11/64
The rack is then screwed to the aluminum angle
through this hole, and the rack is used to position
the remaining holes. This is similar to the process
used to position the holes in the steel rails. 3

It is important that the two aluminum rails mir-


ror each other. Therefore, the hole in one of the 2
x 3 angles will be at the opposite end from the one
shown on the right.
The rack should be checked for positioning before
other holes are drilled in the aluminum angle.
The bottom of the rack's teeth should be a fraction
above the edge of the aluminum angle. This will Drill hole for rack in end of aluminum angle.
prevent the pinion from riding on the aluminum, Important: The al. angles mirror each other.
bottom image, while parts are being aligned later.
The rack is on the same side of the 3 inch leg as the
2 inch leg. Image on next page.

Mark the racks, rails and angles with tape or


similar so their matching holes will not be con-
fused.

Check that pinion clears the edge of the angle.

37
Spacers of ~2⅜ inch can be used to position the
rack on the aluminum angle. These can be cut from
scrap wood. Right image.
Though optional, the spacers can make alignment
easier. The spacers can be used now for position-
ing the drill holes, and later for the assembly of the
racks and rails.
The holes are drilled through the existing holes in
the racks and into the aluminum. Middle right im-
age. The rack is held in place with the single ma-
chine screw and Vise Grips or similar.
Spacer used to position rack on aluminum angle.
Attach Racks and Rails to Angle The rack is on the leg side of the angle.

The racks and rails are attached to the aluminum


angle with #8-32 x 1¼ inch screws after the holes
have been drilled. The screw heads are on the steel
rail side, the nuts are on the aluminum side.
The tails of the screws will need to be cut off. One
inch screws are barely too short for the nuts to
thoroughly grip the threads. Washers are not used
with these screws because of tight clearances.

Standoff Screw for Rail


The end hole for the rail's standoff screw is drilled
after the components are attached to the aluminum Drill holes in aluminum through the holes in the
angle. The rail's hole is used as a guide. Image below. rack.
A machine screw is installed with nuts that sand-
wich the rail and the aluminum angle to support
the rail. Bottom right images.

Rack and rail assemblies with standoff screws. The


Drill hole in aluminum using steel rail as a guide. rail assemblies mirror each other. The above image
is looking at the front of the rails.

38
Review, Rack and Rail

At this time the racks and rails are well aligned and
tightly secured to the 2 x 3 aluminum angle.

The tails of the machine screws that tie the racks


and rails together are cut off flush with the nuts.

Holes are drilled in the angles' 2 inch legs for table


bed attachment.

These leg holes can be used as guides for marking


the matching holes in the legs and table bed.

The legs are made next. Completed rail assembly. Back view.

X Axis Legs

The aluminum angles are supported by 2 x 3 x ⅛


inch 6063 T52 rectangular aluminum tubing that
is cut in 4 inch sections. There are 6 legs, which
require a total of 2 feet of tubing.

Wooden plugs are cut and driven into the ends of


the tubes to add rigidity. The thin walled aluminum
will flex otherwise. Thicker walled 2 x 3 inch alumi-
num can be used. The plugs are still helpful.

Wood can also be used for these legs, and 2x3 or


2x4 stock will work. However, the stock will not
be flush with the aluminum angle since 2x stock is Cut tube into six 4 inch sections.
only 1½ inches wide.

Larger wooden stock can be cut or planed to 2 x 3


inches to replace the aluminum tube. This was done
on a prototype and it worked well, but it requires a
plane or a stationary saw to size the pieces consis-
tently.

The 24 inch section of aluminum tube is cut into six


4 inch pieces. This can be done with a carbide blade
in a miter saw as was done with the gantry ends.
Middle image.

The cut edges are filed or sanded clean.

Wooden blocks are cut to match the inside of the


tube. Right image. The blocks should be cut to fit
tightly. Cut blocking for tube.

39
A variety of stock can be used. ¾ inch thick solid
wood works well since it is less likely to delaminate,
unlike MDF or plywood, but MDF and ply have
served well enough.

The previously drilled leg attachment holes in the 2


x 3 angle were positioned so their studs will clear ¾
inch thick stock in these legs.

The edges of the wooden blocks can be beveled by


cutting, sanding, or rasping so the blocks will more
easily fit into the ends of the tube. Drive blocks in with mallet or hammer and board.

The blocks are driven into the tube with a mallet,


or a hammer with a board to protect the wood. Top
images.

The legs are drilled to match the holes in the base


of the 2 x 3 aluminum angles.

The ends of the legs are flush with the ends of the
angles. The middle legs are centered on the 2 x 3
aluminum. The long edges of all legs align with the
2 x 3 angle.

The holes can be drilled oversized to make align-


ment easier. Holes of ⅜ inch work well. The holes
are through the top and bottom of each leg.
Mark and drill holes in legs
These six legs can be cut, blocked and drilled at this
time.

Table Bed

The table bed is made of ¾ inch plywood with 2x3


bracing screwed and glued to its bottom. The 2x3
helps stiffen the machine.

Plywood is stiffer than MDF. Cabinet rather than


sheathing ply is recommended, but a well chosen
section of sheathing ply can be just as solid. Sheath- Completed X bed with 1x4 tee slots. The 2x3 base
ing ply is coarser and has fewer layers than cabinet boards are painted black in the above image.
plywood.
thickness of the V bearings' washers, and the con-
Optional tee slots can be attached to the top of the dition of the 2 x 3 aluminum angle and the 6 inch
plywood, These will be addressed after the machine flat bar. Therefore, it is better to take a real world
is assembled. measurement of the positions of the components
than to use the designed values.
The table bed is cut to size. However, there are
variables that will affect the width of the machine. Taking a measurement is the next step.
These include the length of the gantry beam, the

40
Measure Width
Place the gantry on top of the rails so the V bear-
ings are centered on the rails.
The bearings will ultimately ride underneath the
rails, but this on top position works for now.
Measure the distance from outside leg to outside
leg as shown below.
With a 24 inch gantry, this dimension will be
around 25¾ inches. The final tightening of com-
ponents can alter this dimension, so it is recom-
mended to round up this number, to 26 in this case.
Right image.

Round the width upward, to 26 in. for example.

The plywood base is cut to this width.


The length of the plywood base is the same as the 2
x 3 inch aluminum angle, 30 inches.
Cut the plywood to 26 x 30 inches. Take care to
Measure outside leg width. make the cuts square.

Install 2x3 Frame


Position the 2 x 3 angles on the plywood so they are
at the actual, not rounded, distance that was mea-
sured previously. A fraction of plywood reveal can
be left outside both angles.
Mark the leg attachment holes that were drilled in
the angles onto the plywood. Image below.
This is done now so the 2x3 wood base attachment
screws will not accidently be installed where the leg Cut two 2x3 pieces to width of plywood. (26 in.)
stud holes need to be.
Align these pieces underneath the plywood so they
are flush with the plywood. Image below.

Mark leg hole positions on plywood. Measure distance between 2x3 boards.

Cut two 2x3 boards (2x4 boards will also work) Measure the distance between these two boards
to 26 inches to match the width of the plywood. and cut two other pieces to fit along the sides of
Above right image. the table.

41
1. Screw and glue these four pieces onto the bottom 2. Drill pilot holes through the plywood and 2x3
of the plywood. 1⅝ inch drywall screws work well. frame at the stud hole locations that were previ-
Countersink the screws. ously marked on the plywood.
Work on a flat surface to help ensure that the table
bed is flat and level.

3. Flip the table bed upside down and drill ⅞ inch 4. Enlarge the pilot holes to 5/16 inch for the studs.
recesses for the tee nuts into the 2x3 frame at the
pilot holes. The recesses can be ~⅛ inch deep.

5. Cut ¼-20 threaded rod into ten 5¾ inch sections, 6. With a wrench or nut driver, tighten a nut with a
and thread a tee nut onto each stud. washer against the plywood to pull the tee nut into
its recess.
Install the ten tee nuts.

42
This is the easiest time to sand and varnish or paint the legs, table
bed and frame. Parts will be attached to the plywood base next.

Thread the studs into the tee nuts and install the For reference: The racks extend to the back of the
legs and rails. Washers are used with the top nuts. machine; they end ~6 inches from the front of the
Cap nuts look nice but are not required. machine.
Align one rail with the plywood edge. Leave a The pinion assembly will be done from the back of
slight reveal to match the positioning that was de- the table bed where the ends of the racks are more
termined earlier. accessible.

Tighten this one rail assembly into place. This can The pinions have to be put on the gantry before the
be either rail. gantry can be attached to the rails.
The pinion assembly is addressed next.
The other rail assembly is put on its legs and studs,
but its nuts are left loose at this time.

The above image is of the back of the table bed.

43
Pinion Axle Components, Overview
The gantry is moved by pinions on racks. The pin-
ions are on a ⅜ inch diameter steel axle. Each end
of the axle is supported by a ⅞ x ⅜ inch bearing.
The bearings are in recesses in the gantry end-
plates. Top two images.
A spacer is placed between each pinion and its
bearing. Upper middle image. These spacers lock Pinion on rack.
the bearings and axle into place, which prevents the
axle from wandering from end to end.
This pinion-spacer-bearing layout removes the
need for collar clamps on the pinion axle.
The spacer has to be small enough in diameter to
clear the X rail, which passes close to the axle near
the bearing. Stacked washers would be too large for
this purpose.
Plumbing compression sleeves for ⅜ inch OD fau-
cet risers work well for this spacer, as do copper
couplers for ¼ inch ID pipe. Lower middle image.
Pinion with spacer and bearing.
These components can be cut, filed or sanded to the
necessary length.
A flattened lock washer also works well as a spacer
when additional spacing is needed. This will de-
pend on how deeply the bearing is recessed in the
end-plate.
The stepper drives the axle via a belt and two pul-
leys. A 3 to 1 ratio is achieved with a 12 tooth pul-
ley on the stepper, and a 36 tooth pulley on the pin-
ion axle. The pulleys are on the outside of the gantry
end-plates. Images below. ¼ inch coupler and ⅜ inch compression sleeve.

Pulley end of pinion axle with sleeve. Pinion pulleys and belt.

44
Pinion Set Screws
Set screws have to be installed in the pinions.
#10-32 x ⅛ inch screws serve well, but other sizes
will work.
Longer set screws will protrude from the pinion
and hit the aluminum angle that supports the rack.
A little of the top of a ¼ inch long set screw can be
filed off so there will be no interference. It is impor- Set screw is away from the pinion's teeth.
tant to leave enough of the hex socket for the Allen
wrench to grab.
The set screws should be installed near the pinion's
end, away from the pinion's teeth, so they will not
hit the rack as the pinion turns.
The position of the set screw is punch marked onto
the pinion and a ⅛ inch pilot hole is drilled. The
hole is enlarged for the tap. A 5/32 inch hole works
with a #10 tap, and a 9/64 inch hole works with a #8
tap.
Set screws can be installed in the pinions at this Drill and tap pinion for set screw.
time.

Pinion Axle
The pinion axle is a ⅜ inch diameter steel rod that
is cut to at least 26 inches long. It has to be long
enough to fit through both end-plates and to sup-
port the pulley, which is on the outside of the end-
plates.
The rod can be longer to support a knob on either or
both ends of the gantry. The rod can be cut shorter
once the machine is assembled.
Cut ⅜ inch steel rod to length.
Steel is preferred for this axle; an aluminum rod
will bend and twist more.
The rod should be straight. Buying locally rather
than online permits a pre-purchase quality check.
The ends of the rods may have to be filed or sanded
for the bearings and pinions to fit. A belt sander
removes excess stock quickly. Take care; it is easy
to remove too much metal so the rod rattles in the
bearings, or so the pinion is off-center.
The axle can be cut to length and filed so the pin-
ions and bearings can be slid over each end. Sand or file ends of rod so bearings fit.

45
Pinion Axle Construction

It is easier to determine the size of the pinion spacer


before the axle is installed. This requires the gantry
to be on the X rails, which is addressed now.

Rotate the V bearings so they are in their lowest


position on their bushings, and tighten them firmly
against the end-plates.

Place the gantry on the rails by sliding the rails be-


tween the ⅞ inch top bearings and the bottom V
bearings. Top image.
Gantry with X rails between bearings.
The X rail assembly that was left loose is moved on
the plywood so the V bearings are centered on the
rails.

It is helpful to hold the gantry in place with a


piece of scrap wood wedged under the end-plate
as shown on the right. The pinions are not in place,
and the gantry will fall without this blocking. This
blocking firmly presses the back V bearing into the
rail so the spacing for the pinion can be measured.

Slide a bearing and a pinion onto a ⅜ inch bolt, a


scrap of dowel or similar. Third image. Using a short
bolt is easier than trying to work with the long tight Use scrap block to lift V bearings into rails.
fitting axle. The bolt is not required to make this
measurement, but it helps to hold the parts in line.

The pinions' set screws can be removed and set


aside. They would get in the way.

Press the bearing into its recess, align the pinion


with the rack, and measure the distance between
the pinion and the bearing bore. Last image. Slide pinion and bearing onto a bolt.

In the example shown here, the ~5/16 inch distance


can be filled with a plumbing compression sleeve
and a flattened lock washer, top image next page.

As mentioned previously, a ¼ inch copper coupler


can be used for this spacing. It would have to be cut,
sanded or filed to length.

Determine this measure for both pinions, and as-


semble their spacers. It may take a few attempts to
achieve the correct length of spacer. Measure length needed for spacer.

46
Slide the properly spaced parts onto each end of the
axle rod. Top image.
Remove the gantry from the X rails, and install the
axle in the gantry. Second image.
If the bearings are very tight on the axle, remove
one of the end-plates to install the axle. This is eas- Pinion, sleeve, washer and bearing on axle.
ier than sliding the tight bearings back and forth
on the axle.
The bearings should fit tightly in their recesses.
They can be wrapped with tape or similar to fill
any voids. Foil HVAC tape works well for this, but
masking or plastic electrical tape will do. Glue is
not recommended; it can cure with the bearing out
of alignment. Loctite can be applied after the ma-
chine is completely assembled. Axle and pinions installed in gantry.

The axle needs to extend ~1 inch beyond the pinion


stepper end-plate for the pulley.
The pinion stepper end-plate is the one without a
recess for the leadscrew bearing. Third image.
The clearance between the pulley and the V bear-
ing's axle nut is close. Image below. The flanges of
some pulleys will scrape against the nut.

Pinion pulley end of gantry.

Close clearance between pulley flange and nut.

The flange can be filed or sanded to fit. A belt sand-


er makes short work of this. Right image. Take care;
the stock from plastic pulleys can be removed very
quickly.
The pulley can be installed now. It is spaced ~1/16
inch from the end-plate. It may have to be aligned
differently when the belt is installed later. It will be
used as a knob during the next steps. It may be necessary to sand down pulley flange.

47
Adjust Bearings and Pinions
Once the axle is in the gantry, the gantry is rein-
stalled onto the X axis rails.
In the next steps:
The V bearings will be firmly pressed into and cen-
tered on their rails.
The pinions will be tensioned against their racks.
The gantry beam will be squared with the table bed
and the X rails.
At present, one X rail is firmly attached to the ply- Back view of gantry on X rails.
wood table bed. The other rail is in place but can be
moved.
The pinions' set screws are still set aside. The pin-
ions should be centered on their racks. Right image.
The pinions' bearings are fixed and cannot be ad-
justed, so adjustments will begin with the V bear-
ings that are underneath the pinions.
Start on the side of the machine with the rail that is
already tightened to the table bed.
Use a wrench to turn the V bearing axle so the
pinion is firmly against its rack. Third image. Use
a second wrench to tighten the axle's nut so the V The pinions are aligned on their racks.
bearing will hold its position.
The pinion should be able to roll on the rack with-
out much resistance.
Do the same for the V bearing on the loose rail
side of the machine. As the pinion's V bearing is
tightened, move the loose X rail so the pinion's V
bearing is centered on the rail. Bottom right photo.
Align the back aluminum legs and the 2 x 3 alu-
minum angle so they are flush with the back of the
plywood table bed. Image below.
Tighten the back of the rail onto the table bed with
the ¼-20 nut that is closest to the rail end. Adjusting the V bearings.

Tighten the back most leg nut. Rail centered in V bearing.

48
Move the gantry to the front of the table and align
the rails. Take care; the pinions are not fixed on the
axle, so they may wander.

Tighten the remaining leg nuts on the X rail angle.


Top image.

Loosen the #10 stud-nuts on both of the gantry


end-plates enough for the end-plates to be able to
move independently of the gantry beam. Second
photo. Tighten legs with gantry at front of table.

Adjust the end-plates' front top and V bearings so


they firmly ride their rails. Third photo.

This adjustment should not significantly alter the


pinions' tension on the racks. Forcing the front of
the end-plates too far up or down will change the
pinion tension.

Square Gantry to Table Bed


Use a square to align the beam vertically with the
bed. Bottom image. This is done from the front of
the gantry; the pinion axle would be in the way on Loosen gantry studs' #10 nuts.
the back of the gantry.
Tighten the beam's #10 stud-nuts to secure the
vertically aligned gantry beam.

If there is not enough play between the studs


and the end-plate holes for the beam to be
squared, the front bearings can be slightly re-
adjusted.
If there still is not enough adjustment space
with the front bearings, the stud holes in the
end-plates can be enlarged. This will require
disassembling the gantry. Adjust front bearings.
It is possible to use shims with the Z axis' V
bearings to make the Z axis vertical, but it is
better to true the gantry beam.

If the ends of the gantry beam are out of


square enough to prevent the V bearings from
riding well on the rails, shims can be placed
between the end-plates and the gantry beam
for alignment. Thin metal cut from aluminum
drink cans works well as shim stock.
Use square to align gantry beam with table bed.

49
Square Gantry to Rails
Move the gantry to the back of the table.
Install the set screw in the pinion that is at the end
opposite from the axle pulley.
Align the pinion with the rack and tighten its set
screw. Top image. The pinion should abut or nearly
abut its spacer.
Align the gantry so it is parallel with the back of
the table bed. The positions of the pinions on the
racks can serve as a guide; they should be aligned Tighten pinion's set screw.
the same on each rack. A straight edge can be used
to align the pinion with the base and legs. Middle
image.
The pulley can be used to turn the one pinion so it
pulls one end of the gantry into alignment with the
other. Bottom image. The axle will freewheel in the
loose pinion near the pulley.
The second pinion's set screw is installed and tight-
ened when the gantry is aligned.
The gantry should now smoothly move on the rails
with drag only from the pinions' pressure in the
racks.
Using a straight edge to align pinions.
The V bearings will need to be adjusted as the rails
wear. Uneven sections of rail will be smoothed by
the movement of the bearings over time. The rails
can be sanded or filed to remove minor bumps.
The axis may have stiff movement in some areas of
the travel. This is often because of slight misalign-
ment of the rack and rail. With use, the bearings
will press tracks into the rails to compensate for the
misalignment.
The bearings should be tight enough to not rattle
on the rails, but not so tight as to cause drag.
Using the pulley as a knob to turn a pinion.
The bearings are too loose if they can be kept from
turning by pinching them with fingers. Just a little
tighter than this has served well. The gantry may still be slightly out of square
A quick bearing tension check can be done by grab- after these initial adjustments.
bing the gantry and rocking it forward and back- Test cuts can be run once the machine is operat-
ward. There should be no play or clicking sounds as ing.
the bearings and pinions are pulled to and from the The pinions can again be adjusted to bring the
rails and racks. gantry into square. Loosening one pinion and
hand turning the pulley to turn the other pinion
The stepper could be installed now, but the wires
works well for further adjustment.
would be in the way, so the carriage is built next.

50
Carriage Overview
The carriage travels on the gantry, and supports the
Z components.
Its body is a 7 inch long section of ¼ x 6 inch alu-
minum flat bar.
Attached to this are the V bearings for both the
horizontal Y motion and the vertical Z movement.
The Y leadnut is attached to the back of the car-
riage plate and the Z leadnut is attached to the
front. Images below.

Front of carriage on gantry.

Back of carriage, removed from gantry. Carriage on gantry with Z axis.

51
Carriage Plate Construction
The ¼ x 6 inch flat bar is cut to length and drilled.
The remaining piece from the aluminum that was
used for the end-plates is cross cut so its ends are
square. Right image.
The template is taped onto the stock, and the holes
are punch marked.
The small holes are for optional limit switch com-
ponents. They are all 9/64 inch, and tapped to #8-32.
Two other holes for the Z limit switch are needed,
but their positions are determined after the ma-
chine is operating. They can be drilled with the ma- Cut flat bar to 7 inches.
chine assembled. Z bearings are on the front and Y bearings are on
The holes' purposes are printed on the image below. the back. All of these holes are ¼ inch.
The V bearings are designated with their axis letter. The image below is not to scale.

6
2-7/16 1-1/8 2-7/16

3/8 1/2 1/2 3/8


Z Z
7/8
Y Y
1 1
Z Leadnut
On Front
2-1/2
2-13/16

Y Limit
Ø9/64 Probe
1-1/8 1-1/8
Tap #8-32

Y Limit Probe Z Limit Wire


Support

1/2
7 Y Leadnut 1-3/8
On Back
This drawing is not to scale.
A full scale template is on the
following page.

1 O1/4 2-13/16
1
Z Z

Y Y
1
5/8 1/2 5/8

52
Carriage Template
The stock is ¼ x 6 inch aluminum flat bar that is The metal can be cut, punch-marked and drilled
cut to 7 inches. at this time. Drill pilot holes before drilling the ¼
inch holes.
The large holes are all ¼ inch. The small holes are
for limit switch components; they are 9/64 inch and Check the 6 x 7 inch dimensions of the printed
tapped to #8-32. template before using.

6
2-7/16 1-1/8 2-7/16

3/8 1/2 1/2 3/8


7/8

1 1

2-1/2
2-13/16

1-1/8 Ø9/64
Tap #8-32 1-1/8

1/2
7 1-3/8

1 O1/4 2-13/16
1

1
5/8 1/2 5/8

53
Drill Carriage Plate
The template is taped to the metal, and the holes
are punch marked. Image below.
Pilot holes are drilled at the punch marks. The holes
are then drilled to their final size. Right photos.

Drill pilot holes

Punch mark hole centers in aluminum. Drill holes.

Install Carriage V Bearings

The V bearings with their axles and offset bushings


have already been assembled. Right image. There
are eight bearings, four each for the Y and Z axes.

The Y bearings are closest to the plate's corners and


are installed on the back.

The bearings are installed with washers sandwich-


ing the aluminum plate as shown in the bottom im-
age. Carriage V bearing assembly.

The bearings are close to each other, and an extra


washer is installed as a spacer with the Z bearings.
See arrow in bottom image.

The extra washers prevent the bolt threads from


scraping the neighboring bearings.

These extra washers also space the Z axis away from


the carriage, which gives more clearance for the
leadnut.

Lock washers can also be used under the nuts, if


there is room. The fit is close. Image on next page.

All eight bearings can be attached to the carriage. Extra washer between plate and nut on Z bearing.

54
Install Carriage on Gantry
The back Y bearings are rotated so they are as far
apart as possible. The carriage is hung from the top
gantry rail by the top V bearings.

The optional Z limit switch's wire and tube are


attached to a screw in the carriage plate. The
carriage will have to be removed from the gan-
try later if the wire and tube are not attached
to the screw now. See page 85.

The bottom bearings may have to be loosened to


clear the bottom rail. Optional lock washer.
Once the Vs of all of the Y bearings straddle the
gantry rails, the bearings' axle bolts are turned to
tension the bearings against the rails.
The carriage is abutted to a gantry end-plate to
check for alignment. Image below. The gap between
the carriage and the end-plate should be parallel.

Bearings on carriage plate.

Carriage to end-plate gap should be even.


The top bearings are rotated to align the carriage.
The bottom bearings are then adjusted to remove
the play between the bearings and the rails. The
carriage should travel smoothly along the gantry.
Two wrenches are used to tighten the bearing's axle
into place. One wrench on the axle bolt's head pre-
vents the axle from turning, while the other wrench
is used to tighten the nut. Bottom right image.
The carriage is installed and aligned at this time,
and the bearings' tension is adjusted so the carriage
moves well. Two wrenches used to tighten axles.

55
Y Leadnut Bracket
The Y leadnut is supported by a 1 x 1 x ⅛ inch sec-
tion of aluminum angle that is cut to 1¾ inches
long. Right image.
Two holes are drilled and tapped in one leg of the
angle bracket for #8-32 x ¾ inch machine screws,
images below, which tie the bracket to the carriage
plate.

Leadnut on angle bracket on back of carriage.

#8-32 x ¾ inch screws threaded into angle.

These screws fit in the ¼ inch holes in right edge


of the carriage plate. Right image. The oversized
holes permit adjustments. Nuts with washers tie
the screws to the plate.

The other leg of the aluminum angle bracket is


drilled for the leadnut's support screws, and for the Nuts on leadnut bracket screws, front view.
Y leadscrew. Images below.

Leadnut attached to angle.

The flange of the leadnut is drilled and tapped for


#8-32 x ¾ inch screws, which tie the leadnut to the
angle bracket.

The oversized holes in the aluminum angle bracket


permit adjustment. Threading the machine screws
into the leadnut makes adjustments easier than
working with freewheeling screws. Leadnut with screws tapped into flange.

56
Bracket Construction, Carriage Leg
The ⅛ x 1 inch aluminum angle is cut to 1¾ inches
long. The two threaded holes can be drilled first as
shown on the photo and drawing on the right.
To ensure proper alignment, the bracket is held
behind the carriage while match marks are scribed
through the holes in the plate. Images below.
The edge of the angle bracket's leg is flush with the
edge of the carriage plate, as shown in the image at
the top of the previous page.

Carriage leg of Y leadnut angle bracket.

1/2
3/16

O9/64
Tap #8-32
1-3/4
Place bracket behind carriage plate.

3/16
1

Dimensions of carriage leg of Y leadnut bracket.

The actual hole locations should be close to the de-


signed dimensions shown in the above drawing.

Threading the screws into these two holes


in the bracket will make adjustments much
easier.
Mark hole locations.
Were the screws allowed to freewheel in
larger holes, it would be necessary to posi-
Once the holes are marked, they are punched, tion a screwdriver behind the carriage plate
drilled and tapped. while parts were being aligned.
The #8-32 x ¾ inch screws will be installed later.

57
Construction, Leadnut and Angle Bracket O9/64 1/8
Tap
The holes in the leadnut leg of the bracket have to #8-32
match the screws that are installed in the leadnut; 1
therefore, the leadnut is drilled and tapped before
the matching screw holes in the bracket are drilled.
Ø1-1/4 1/8

Drill Leadnut
Tapped holes in leadnut flange.
The two 9/64 inch holes in the leadnut are drilled as
shown in the top drawing. They are then tapped for
#8-32 x ¾ inch screws. The screws are not installed
5/16
yet.
3/8
Drill Angle Bracket's Leadscrew Hole 7/8
The ½ inch hole in the aluminum angle is punch
1-3/4
marked and drilled as shown in the drawing on the
right. Only the ½ inch hole is drilled at this time. Ø1/2

A pilot hole is drilled, and the drill size is incre-


Ø1/4 3/8
mentally stepped up to ½ inch when twist drills are
used instead of a Forstner bit. This helps to keep the 1
hole centered.
This ½ inch hole can be drilled now. Holes in leadnut leg of angle.

Check Alignment
Before further work is done, the position of the
leadnut bracket's leadscrew hole is checked with
the machine. Adjustments can more easily be ad-
dressed now should parts be out of alignment.
The ¾ inch machine
screws are tightened
into the angle as
shown on the near
right, and the angle is
attached to the car- Leadnut bracket attached to carriage.
riage plate as shown
on the far right.
The alignment of the
bracket is viewed by
looking through the
leadscrew holes in the end-plates. Bottom right
image.
The holes should all remain in alignment as the car-
riage is moved from end to end on the gantry. Off-
set adjustment is addressed on the next page.
The bracket is removed from the carriage when the
alignment is correct. View of aligned leadnut angle bracket.

58
Adjusting Offsets
A vertical offset can be addressed by moving Shims can be installed between the angle bracket
the angle bracket up and down on the carriage and the carriage plate.
plate. Washers can be added or removed between the V
The holes in the carriage plate can be enlarged bearings' axle nuts and the carriage plate.
for further adjustment. The rails can also be moved by enlarging the ma-
The V bearings can be rotated on their offset chine screw holes in the gantry beam and the steel
bushings to move the entire carriage plate up rails.
and down. These remedies were not necessary on the proto-
A horizontal offset can be altered by elongating types that used the dimensions in these plans. But
the ½ inch hole in the angle bracket. offsets happen.

Drill Bracket's Leadnut Screw Holes


The leadnut's leadscrew hole is centered over the
½ inch hole in the bracket. The positions of the
flange's screw holes are then scribed onto the alu-
minum angle bracket. Right image.
The holes' locations are punch-marked, and pilot
holes are drilled. The holes are then drilled larger
to ¼ inch.
The oversized ¼ inch holes permit adjustment of
the leadnut.
Mark hole positions on angle bracket.
Install Leadnut and Bracket
The ¾ inch screws are threaded into the leadnut,
and the leadnut is loosely attached to the bracket
with nuts and washers. Image below.

Leadnut on bracket. Leadnut with bracket attached to carriage.

The bracket and leadnut assembly is then loosely attached to the carriage. Right image above.

59
Leadscrew Bearing Flange

Both ends of the Y leadscrew are supported with


bearings. The bearing on the stepper end is recessed
in the end-plate and cannot be adjusted.

The bearing at the other end of the leadscrew is


supported in a shop made flange, which permits the
leadscrew to be aligned with the movement of the
carriage. Right image.
Bearing flange with bearing and collar clamp.

The flange can be made from a variety of materials.


Stock ranging in thickness between 3/16 and 3/8 inch
works well.

Kitchen cutting board plastic works well, and is less


costly than Delrin, though it does not cut and drill
as cleanly.

Aluminum and tempered hardboard have also Hardboard flange, and flange with bearing.
served well. The flange shown on the right is made
of 3/16 inch tempered hardboard. 9/16 9/16
5/16
Plywood and solid wood may tear, since the flange
is small and thin. 1-1/4

A ⅞ inch recess is drilled for the bearing. The bot- 2-1/2


1-7/8
tom of the bearing recess should be around ⅛ inch
thick. This will prevent the flange from tearing Ø5/8
through and off-setting in the hole in the end-plate Ø7/8
should the leadscrew not be centered in the end- Recess
plate hole. 5/16 Ø1/4

1-1/8
The recess's walls only have to be deep enough to
hold the bearing in place. The radial loads on the Y bearing flange dimensions.
bearing should be minimal.

The flange is held in place with #8-32 x ¾ inch


screws, bottom image. These can be threaded into
the end-plate. Nuts and washers hold the flange in
place.

The flange can be cut, drilled and loosely installed


at this time.
#8-32 x ¾ inch flange screws in end-plate.

60
Leadscrew Installation
The machine was sized to use a 36 inch leadscrew
that is cut into two pieces with no remainder. One
section is for the Y axis and the other is for the Z.
The lengths are 27½ and 8½ inches. The longer
piece extends beyond the end-plates enough to
support a knob. The knob can be installed on either
end of the gantry.
The 27½ inch leadscrew is passed through either Leadscrew with bearing, flange and collar clamp.
end-plate and threaded through the leadnut. It is
then twisted to feed through the leadnut and to
pass through the other end-plate.
The bearing is installed in its flange, and a collar
clamp is threaded onto the leadscrew. Top image.
The bearing at the stepper end of the leadscrew is
pressed into its recess. Second image.
The pulley resists the thrust load and will be pulled
into the bearing. A spacer is installed between the
pulley and the bearing to prevent them from scrap- Stepper end bearing in recess.
ing.
A standard flat washer will not work because of its
size. Like the pulley, it would scrape the bearing.
A sliver of the ¼ inch copper coupler described in
the pinion axle section can be used here as a spacer.
Another option is a finned lock washer that has
been flattened. The fins are twisted with pliers, or
tapped with a hammer so they are flat. Near right
image. The washer is abutted against the bearing.
Far right image.
The pulley is then installed with its hub away from Flattened lock washer as spacer against bearing.
the end-plate. Bottom image. The pulley's set screw
is tightened.

The belt needs to be as close to the end-plate


as possible for the stepper's pulley to fit. The
stepper may have a short shaft.

The leadscrew, bearings and pulley can be installed


at this time. The collar clamp and bearing flange are
not tightened into place yet.
Install 15 tooth XL pulley.

61
Align Leadnut and Leadscrew
The leadscrew and leadnut are adjusted together.
The numbered photos show the process.
The leadscrew is centered by eye, and the bearing
flange is tightened enough to hold the leadscrew
in position.
The leadnut and its bracket are tightened into place
while the carriage is at the pulley end.
The flange is loosened so the leadscrew is supported
by the leadnut.
The leadscrew is turned to move the carriage to
the flange end. This aligns the leadscrew with the
carriage. The flange is tightened to secure the lead-
screw. The leadscrew is now parallel with the car- 1. The leadscrew is centered in its hole in the bear-
riage's travel. ing flange end-plate by eye.

2. The flange is tightened just enough to hold the 3. The leadnut bracket is secured.
leadscrew in place.

4. The leadnut is tightened into place. 5. The bearing flange is loosened.

62
6. The carriage is moved to the flange end by turn- 7. The collar clamp is firmly abutted against the
ing the leadscrew, and the flange is secured. bearing, and its set screw is tightened.

The carriage is moved from end to end by turning ened individually while the axis is moved to find
the leadscrew. the problem area.
The leadscrew can be turned by using the pulley as The angle bracket may not be square with the car-
a knob. riage, which can cause the leadnut to bind on the
Any resistance should be removed by further align- leadscrew.
ing the leadnut and leadscrew. Shims made from beverage can stock can be used
At this point, simply loosening and retightening the to align the parts. The shims can be placed between
leadnut and its bracket can remove most remaining the leadnut and the bracket, or the bracket and the
misalignment and drag. carriage plate. This is seldom necessary with plastic
leadnuts; they tend to be more forgiving than metal
Should problems persist, each component is loos- ones.

The machine is now at this stage of construction.

63
Z Axis Overview
The body of the Z axis is a 12 inch section of 2 x 1
x ⅛ inch 6063 T52 aluminum channel, which sup-
ports ½ x ½ x ⅛ inch steel angle rails.
A ¼ x 2½ inch section of 6061-T6511 aluminum
flat bar is tied to the top of the channel with eye
bolts. This flat bar supports the leadscrew's bear-
ings and the stepper's #10-24 x 2½ inch standoff
screws.
Another section of 2½ inch flat bar serves as an
optional heat sink for the stepper.

Front and back of Z axis.

Back of Z axis.
Steel Rails
The Z rails use the same ½ x ½ x ⅛ inch steel angle
as the gantry rails. The two rails are cut to 12 inches
long and are drilled for the machine screws that tie
the rails to the aluminum channel.
The rails are made first so their attachment holes
can be used as templates for the matching holes in
the aluminum channel.
The two steel rails can be cut and drilled now. The
dimensions are in the image below.
The procedure for making these is the same as the
gantry rails.
Side view of top of Z axis.
12
1/2
1/2 5-1/2 /
O11/64
1/2
Hole placement in steel rails.

64
Z Body

The 2 inch aluminum channel for the Z axis is ⅛


inch thick with 1 inch legs. It is an even 1 foot long,
which avoids custom cut fees, and removes the need
to cut the section to length.

The top end of the channel needs to be square. It


can be trimmed with a saw the same way the ends
of the gantry beam were trued.

Holes for Steel Rail

The steel rails are placed on the channel's 1 inch


legs with the rails' legs pointing toward the 2 inch
face of the channel. Top image. The rails are set Rails on channel, top view.
back ⅛ inch from the face, and ⅜ inch from the
back of the channel's legs.

The tops of the steel rails should not extend beyond


the top edge of the channel; otherwise, they would
interfere with the seating of the top plate.

The holes in the steel rails are used as guides to drill


the matching holes in the aluminum channel. A
combination square can help with the alignment.
Right image.

The rail holes can be drilled in the aluminum now.


Their diameter is 11/64 inch.

Holes for Trim Router Mount Back of rail is ⅜ inch from back of channel leg.

This attachment system is for DeWalt and Porter


Cable trim routers. Both of these units have a ¼-20
threaded hole in the base that can be used to tie the
router to the aluminum channel. 5/16 O11/64 5/16

The mid section of the trim router is supported by


bands made from plumbing hanger strap.

Directions for the mount are addressed later. How- 4

ever, the mounting holes can be drilled in the chan-


nel now while the tools are at hand.

There are three holes as shown in the photo and


drawing. These holes can be drilled at this time. Ø1/4

1/2

Router mounting holes in channel.

65
Eye Bolts
The top plate is held in place with #10 or similar
eye bolts, which are tied in place with the same #8-
32 x ¾ inch screws that support the tops of the rails.
The threaded shafts of the eye bolts need to be at
least ½ inch long. The ones shown here are much
longer than needed, but were the shortest available.
The loops in the bolts can be bent with pliers to fit
better. Lower right image.
The ends of the eye bolts' loops abut the back of the
channel's face. Image below. This prevents the loops Eye bolts on channel.
from pulling open when the top plate is tightened
into place.

End of eye bolt's loop toward front of channel. Eye bolt loop bent to fit.

Attach Rails

Screws holding rails and eye bolts to channel. Center screws point outward. Top screws hold eye bolts.

The rails are attached to the aluminum channel The leadnut clearance will be close around the cen-
with #8-32 machine screws. The bottom and mid- ter rail screws, so these screws are installed with the
dle screws are ⅜ inch long. The top screws are ¾ head on the inside of the channel. Arrow in image
inch long. above.
The top screws also tie #10 eye bolts to the inside of The rails can be attached now. They are ⅜ inch from
the channel as shown. The top screws are not com- the back of the channel. The screw holes in the alu-
pletely tightened until the top plate is installed. minum or steel can be enlarged for alignment.

66
Z Top Plate
The top plate is a section of ¼ x 2½ inch flat bar
that is cut to 2½ inches long.

Holes are drilled in this piece for the machine


screws that tie the stepper to the axis, and for the
eye bolts that tie this plate to the channel.

Two leadscrew bearings sandwich this plate. A re-


cess is drilled for one of the bearings.

This recess only needs to be deep enough to keep Top plate tied to channel with eye bolts.
the bearing from wandering as the leadscrew turns;
less than ⅛ inch deep will work.

The bearings and this top plate carry the plunge


forces and the weight of the router, so the base of
the bearing recess should not be too thin.

This top plate is installed with the recess facing


downward. Having the bottom bearing in the re-
cess will give a fraction more Z travel.

The small holes in the plate are all ¼ inch. They


can be enlarged as needed for proper fit. The eye
bolt holes may not align with the available eye bolts.

The top plate is aligned so it is square with the


channel. It overhangs the front of the channel by ⅝
inch as shown in the photo on the next page. Z top plate, bottom view.

The dimensioned template, bottom right drawing,


2-1/2
can be used for punch marking the holes on the 5/16 5/16
1-7/8
aluminum. Check the printed dimensions before
using. 5/16

Top plate information continues on next page.


Ø7/8
Recess Ø5/8

2-1/2

1/2 1/2
1-1/4
1 5/16
Ø1/4
5/16
1-1/4
5/16
Z top plate full scale template.
Top plate held with nuts and washers on eye bolts. There is a copy on page 110.

67
This section of aluminum for this
top plate could also be cut from
leftover stock from the end-plates.
The dimensions of the metal stock
are not critical, but the hole place-
ment does need to be accurate.

The bearings take the loads off of


the stepper, which removes lash
and can prolong the stepper's life.
Steppers' internal bearings are of-
ten not intended for significant
thrust loads.

Top plate overhangs channel ⅝ inch.

The top plate can be cut, drilled and installed now. For appearance, the threaded ends of the eye bolts
can be cut off near their attachment nuts.
The screws and nuts can be tightened, but they may
need to be adjusted during the leadscrew alignment.

Heat Sink
The optional heat sink is a ~4 inch section of ¼ x This heat sink helps to reduce stepper heating,
2½ inch flat bar that is drilled for the stepper's at- which can permit longer run times and more
tachment screw holes and for the stepper's raised aggressive settings on the drives.
face. It can be much larger than shown here.

The stock used for this can also be leftover alumi-


num from the 6 inch flat bar. The size and shape of
this heat sink can vary widely.
The easiest way to make this is to drill a ¼ inch
hole in the center of the aluminum plate, insert
the stepper's shaft in the hole and use the stepper's
holes to mark the holes in the aluminum.
The hole saw that was used for the gantry end-
plates' stepper mount holes can be used for the
large hole. The four smaller holes can be ¼ inch in
diameter.
The heat sink will be installed when the stepper is
attached to the axis.
Aluminum heat sink drilled to fit stepper's face.

68
Router Mount Construction
The trim router is held in place with a ¼- 20 x ¾
inch bolt in the base, and with a shop made band in
the mid-section.
The band is made of plumbing hanger strap that is
bent to fit the router.
The strap is cut into two 6 inch sections. These will
be cut shorter later; the extra length at this time
keeps options open for later alignment.
Plumbing hanger strap.
The strap is bent in a flattened spiral with its holes
aligned. A #8-32 x ⅜ inch flat head machine screw
with a washer is inserted through the holes as
shown in the near right photo.
The strap is then pressed flat with pliers. Far right
image.
The screw is tightened into a nut that is inside the
aluminum channel.
The clearance will be close between these screws
and the leadnut, so the screws cannot extend very
far past the nuts. Image below. Strap bent with screw in holes.

Straps' screws do not extend past nuts.


The strap is oriented as shown below.
The strap is then bent back over the screw head as
shown on the right. Straps bent back toward outside of channel.
The process is repeated for the second strap.

The bending of the straps over the heads of the


screws removes the need for a crescent shaped
cradle between the router and the channel. It
stabilizes the router so it cannot shift sideways
on the channel.
The spiral wrapping of the strap on the screw
is done to prevent the soft strap from bending
too sharply and tearing around the washers
and screws.

Screw tightened with nut into hole in channel.

69
The router's base can be turned so the switch or cord is not in the way for mounting.
The four screws in the base of the router are removed and the base is rotated.
Take care; pulling downward on the loosened base will pull the commutator from the
brushes. The router's top cap can be removed for brush access should this happen.

The router is attached to the channel with a ¼-20 x


¾ inch bolt . Right image. A lock or flat washer is
used with the bolt. The bolt may bottom in the hole
before it tightens against the channel; shorten the
bolt if needed.
The straps are then bent around the router.
A ¼-20 x 1 inch bolt is installed through holes in
the strap to pull the strap around the router. It is
recommended to offset the junction between the
straps from the switch so the bolt does not block
the switch. Bottom right image.
The strap is cut and its edges are trimmed so they
are covered by the washers that are on the tension-
ing bolt. Any exposed edges would be sharp. ¼-20 x ¾ inch bolt with lock washer.
The base of the router may not sit flat against the
plate, which will permit some rocking of the router
during aggressive cuts.
Shims made of beverage can or similar can be placed
between the router base and the channel to fill the
voids. Image below. The shims should be trimmed
flush with the bottom of the channel.
The straps are installed at this time so the nuts can
be checked for leadnut clearance; leadnut assembly
is addressed next. The router can be installed later.

Shim being installed between router and channel. Bolt and nut with washers tighten band strap.

70
Z Leadnut Overview
The Z leadnut is supported by an angle bracket that
is made of 1 x 1 x ⅛ inch aluminum angle.
Machine screws are threaded into both legs of the
angle bracket. Image below. One pair of screws ties
the bracket to the carriage plate. Right image.
The other pair of screws secures the leadnut. Mid-
dle right image.
The screws are threaded into the bracket so they
will not freewheel as the leadnut and bracket are
aligned and secured. Clearances are tight; accessing
freewheeling screw heads would be challenging. Leadnut and bracket on carriage.

Leadnut bracket with #8-32 x ¾ inch screws. Leadnut attached to bracket.

Z Leadnut Angle Bracket


This angle bracket, like the Y lead-
nut bracket, is made of 1 x 1 x ⅛
inch aluminum angle. This one is
cut to 1⅝ inches long.
Holes are drilled and tapped for
#8-32 x ¾ inch machine screws.
1-5/8 The holes for the screws are 9/64
13/16 1/4 1-1/8 1/4
inch. The hole for the leadscrew is
Ø9/64 ½ inch in diameter. 1/4
Ø1/2 9/16
#8-32
The trimmed corners, as shown on 1 Ø9/64
the left, are cut to clear the nuts and #8-32
7/16
screw heads that are on the inside
1/4 1-1/8 of the Z channel.
1-5/8
(Continued on next page.)
Bottom leg of Z bracket. Back leg of Z bracket.

71
The amount of trimming will vary and can be done the threaded holes. The back screws are installed
as needed when the Z channel is installed. first; the screws in the bottom leg block their access.
Sanding or cutting off a ¼ inch of the corners is a This angle bracket can be cut and drilled at this
good initial amount of trimming. time.
#8-32 x ¾ inch machine screws are tightened into

Z Leadnut
The clearance for the Z leadnut is close, and the
leadnut has to be trimmed to clear the Z channel
and to align with the leadscrew.
A section of the leadnut's flange is trimmed to fit
closely to the back of the angle bracket.
The opposite side of the flange is trimmed to give
clearance between the leadnut and the Z channel.
Notches are drilled and cut in the flange for the
machine screws. These notches permit the leadnut
to be moved for alignment with the leadscrew's
travel. Z leadnut trimmed and notched.

The flange can be cut with a fine tooth saw, such as edges of the flange and then cutting off the excess
a hacksaw. The plastic can also be shaped by sand- stock. They could also be made by nibbling with a
ing or filing. Coarse grit paper on a power sander scroll saw or fine toothed band saw.
removes stock quickly.
The leadnut can be trimmed to fit at this time. The
The notches are made by drilling holes close to the angle bracket can be used as a guide.

Install Leadnut
The leadnut is loosely attached to the angle bracket
with nuts and washers, and the bracket assembly is
attached to the carriage plate with nuts and wash-
ers. Images below and on right.

Front view of leadnut on carriage plate. Top view of leadnut on carriage plate.

72
Adjust Z Axis V Bearings
The V bearings that carry the Z channel can be
adjusted before the stepper and leadscrew are in-
stalled. The adjustments are easier without these
other parts in the way. Further adjustments may be
necessary later.

The V bearings are rotated so the Z channel's rails


will fit in the bearings. The channel is installed and
the bearings are tightened enough to support the
channel without rattling.
The clearances between the leadnut assembly and
the router mount and rail hardware are checked as
the Z channel is installed. Right image.
Check clearance between hardware and leadnut.
The leadnut and its bracket are trimmed as needed.
The bottom V bearings' axles are the hardest to ac- and the axis is checked for square with the table
cess with a wrench, so these are adjusted first. bed. Image below.
The bottom bearings' axles are turned so the rails The top bearings are adjusted and tightened so the
are held firmly. The bottom bearings are tightened axis is parallel with the square. Arrows in image.
into place.
The bearing tensioning process is the same as was
A square is aligned with the edge of the Z channel done with the gantry.

Z axis made parallel with square by adjusting V bearings.

73
Install Z Stepper

The Z channel assembly can be removed from the


carriage for the next steps.

The Z stepper is held in place with four #10-24 x


2½ inch machine screws. Nuts with washers hold
the optional heat sink against the stepper. These top
nuts and washers abut the stepper when no heat
sink is used.

Another set of nuts and washers sandwich the 21/2


x 21/2 inch Z top plate, and are used to align and
secure the stepper.

An extra pair of nuts and washers can be installed


Nuts and washers for cable tie on one front screw.
on one of the front machine screws to hold a clamp
for the trim router's power cord. Top image.

The stepper is oriented so its cable will project away


from the trim router, and toward the back of the
machine. There is more information in the Wire
Protection section, page 78.

The stepper coupler and its leadscrew are attached


to the stepper. The coupler is spaced ~⅛ inch away
from the stepper's face.

A bearing is slid on the leadscrew to abut the lead-


screw to leadnut coupler.

A spacer, e.g. a flattened finned washer, may be


needed between the bearing and the leadscrew
coupler. The coupler should not scrape against the
Washer between coupler and bearing.
bearing. Middle image.

Nuts with washers are threaded onto the #10 ma-


chine screws to abut the top of the Z top plate.

This assembly is attached to the Z top plate. Nuts


with washers are attached to the ends of the #10
screws on the bottom of the Z top plate. The nuts
are not tightened yet.

The leadscrew's second bearing is slid up the lead-


screw and pressed into the recess in the top plate.
The collar clamp is abutted against the bearing.

The clearance is close between the rails' top screws,


which hold the eye bolts, and the collar clamp.
Bottom image. These two screws may have to be
trimmed.
The rails' top screws are close to the collar clamp.

74
Align Z Axis
The Z channel with its stepper is installed on the
carriage. The leadscrew is turned by hand to thread
the leadscrew into the leadnut.

A knob on the stepper makes this easier. A knob


can also be useful later when setting up CNC jobs.
A generic electronics control knob works well. See
the Knobs section on page 97.

Rough alignment is checked by turning the lead-


screw to move the axis up and down.

The nuts that secure the heat sink are tightened.

The nuts that sandwich the top plate are incremen-


tally tightened while checking for alignment of the Incrementally adjust and tighten nuts.
stepper and leadscrew. Top image.

To align the components, it may be necessary to


loosen and retighten the eye bolts' nuts that secure
the top plate.

The steppers' internal bearings should not carry


any of the axis' weight. The leadnut coupler can be
loosened and retightened to remove any thrust load
that adjustments may have applied to the stepper.

The leadnut is tightened on its bracket, and the


bracket is tightened against the carriage. Middle
and bottom images.
Tighten leadnut's attachment nuts.
This entire process is done incrementally while
checking for drag caused by misalignment.

By design there is room for adjustment between


many components. Parts can be methodically loos-
ened and retightened to find problem areas.

Many times simply loosening a component, mov-


ing the axis, and then retightening the component
can remove excess resistance and drag.

Again, achieving proper alignment is an incremen-


tal process that may require a number of attempts.

Tighten bracket's attachment nuts.

75
Install Gantry Leadscrew Stepper
The stepper's pulley is tightened to the stepper be-
fore the stepper is installed because access to the
pulley's set screw may be blocked by the gantry
end-plate.
The stepper is held in place while its 15 tooth XL
pulley is aligned with the leadscrew pulley. Right
image.
The pulley is then secured to the stepper with its
set screw.
The ⅜ inch wide 40 tooth XL belt will not fit over
the flanges of the pulleys after the stepper is in
place, so the belt is installed as the stepper is in-
stalled. Second image on right. Stepper pulley is aligned with leadscrew pulley.

The stepper is pulled toward the back of the axis


to tension the belt as the stepper's #8-32 x ¾ inch
machine screws are tightened. Image below.

Nuts tightened while 40 tooth belt is tensioned. The stepper and belt are installed at the same time.

Install Pinion Axis Stepper


The stepper pulley has 12 teeth and the pinion axle
pulley has 36 teeth. The ⅜ inch wide XL belt has
65 teeth.
The pulleys are aligned with each other as the lead-
screw pulleys were.
These pulleys are spaced away from the end-plate
to prevent the bottom gantry stud and nut from
chafing the belt. Arrow in right image.
The pulleys are tightened on their shafts.
The stepper's #8-32 machine screws are loosely in-
stalled to tie the stepper to the end-plate. Belt must clear bottom gantry stud and nut.

76
Three screws are #8-32 x ¾ inch. One machine
screw can be 1 inch long to support a cable mast.
Arrow in right image.

Two washers are put on the tensioner bearings' axle


bolt. Image below. These serve as spacers to align
the tensioner with the belt. Proper alignment may
require a different number of washers.

#8-32 x 1 inch screw to be used with cable mast.

Washers as spacers on axle bolt.

The tensioner assembly is loosely installed in the


end-plate. A nut and washer are put on the ten-
sioner's axle on the inside of the gantry end-plate.

The stepper's machine screws are tightened with


the belt moderately tensioned. Middle right image.

The tensioner bearings are then turned to tighten


the belt to its final tension. Bottom right image.

The tensioner is tightened into place with its nut


that is on the inside of the end-plate. Image below. Tighten stepper's hardware.

Tensioner bearings tightened with nut. Tension belt by turning tensioner assembly.

77
Wire Protection
The wires need to be secured so they will not be
damaged as the machine runs.

Cable Clamps
Cable clamps made from thin metal or plastic can
be screwed to the steppers. These clamps will re-
move the stress on the wires where they exit the
steppers.
Some steppers have threaded holes on their ends Cable clamp screwed to stepper.
that can be used to hold a screws for the clamps.
Top right image.
Clamps can be made from beverage can stock. The
thin metal is cut into strips and bent around a shaft
that is the same diameter as the cable. Right image.
Holes are punched in the legs of the clip. Third
image.
Strip of aluminum bent around a shaft.
Z Cable Guide
A strip of plastic cut from vinyl siding nailing strip
or drywall corner bead makes a simple guide for the
Z stepper's cable. Photos below and on the follow-
ing page.
A 27 x ⅝ inch strip is cut from the plastic stock as
shown in the images below.
One end of the plastic is attached to the stepper or
to the top of the Z axis.
The other end is screwed to the middle top of the Hole punched in thin aluminum clamp.
gantry beam. The stepper's cable is loosely zip tied
to the plastic.

Drywall corner bead trimmed to ~⅝ inch wide. Cable guide made from strip of plastic.

78
A screw with washer fastens the plastic strip to the
top of the stepper, the heat sink or the top plate.
Right image.
The other end of the strip is screwed onto the mid-
dle of the top of the gantry beam. Images below.
A 9/64 inch hole is drilled and tapped for a #8-32
screw.

Wing nut on #8 screw in center of gantry. Clamp and strip attached to stepper.

A wing nut on the screw eases Z removal for storage.


The stepper's cable is routed behind the pinion
The plastic strip is slightly angled away from the stepper and bundled with the other cables into the
gantry so it will not snag on the carriage's bearings. flexible conduit. This is addressed next.

Back view of stepper cable zip tied to plastic guide.

79
Secure Stepper Cables
The stepper cables are bundled together in a 24
inch section of ⅜ inch corrugated conduit, which is
also called split convoluted tubing or looming.
The conduit is often sold in auto parts stores and in
home entertainment departments.
The cables in their conduit are supported by a clamp
that is mounted at an angle to direct the cables away
from the gantry and rack. Top image.
A commercially made “Kwik Klip” adjustable and
open-able clamp works well here. Middle image.
The opening option permits the Z cable to be re-
moved from the gantry, which may be handy for
storage. Stepper cables clamped to end-plate.
The foot of the clamp is drilled or notched for the
#8-32 x 1 inch machine screws that tie the clamp to
the gantry end. Middle image.
The clamp is positioned underneath the pinion
stepper, and its hole locations are marked onto the
gantry end-plate. Bottom right image.
9/64 inch holes are drilled and tapped for the #8-32
x 1 inch machine screws, and the screws are tight-
ened into their threaded holes.
The screws are bent so they will angle the clamp
and conduit away from the X rack. Image below.

Holes or notches in foot of clamp.

#8-32 x 1 inch screws bent down and back. Clamp's position is marked on gantry end-plate.

80
Nuts and washers sandwich and secure the clamp. secured in the clamp. A second open-able clamp
Image below. can be mounted to the center leg to anchor the
The steppers' cables are bundled in the conduit and other end of the conduit. Right image below.

Clamp tightened between nuts and washers. Conduit fastened to leg with second clamp.

Router Cord Support

The trim router's cord is supported by a mast, which


is a 6 inch section of dowel or rod that is slid into a
spring. It could be a piece of leftover ¼-20 rod from
the legs' studs, or a pencil, pen, etc.

The spring is bent to fit around the pinion stepper's


longer mounting screw, and is clamped in place
with nuts and washers.

Wire is wrapped around the base of the mast and


spiraled above the pinion axis pulleys to project the
router's power cord away from the gantry. Right
images.

A section of corrugated split conduit holds the


router's cord to the dowel. Far right image.

The spiral wire and split conduit allow the router's


cord to easily be disconnected from the machine.

Mast made of dowel and spring.

81
A cable clamp ties the cord to a stepper screw. The
clamp is sandwiched between two nuts with wash-
ers. Right image.
This clamp is made as shown in the Cable Clamp
section, page 78, but it has a slot rather than a hole
so it can be slid between the washers on the stepper
screw.
The cord is adjusted so the mast is leaning when
the router is at its extreme position as shown below.
The mast will spring back to vertical and hold the
cord above the table as the carriage moves.
Cable clamp on stepper screw.

Mast is nearly aligned with the cord when the router is farthest from the mast.

82
Tee Slots Construction
The tee slots cover only the cutting area of the ma-
chine so they can be surfaced by the trim router.
The boards are standard 1x4 stock, which has an
actual dimension of ¾ x 3½ inches. Five pieces at
24 inches each fit well on the bed. Right image.
The boards are set back ~1½ inches from the front
of the plywood table and ~4½ inches from the back
of the table. The router's extreme positions are used
to determine this placement. The cross table ex- Tee slots made of 1x4 boards.
tremes are used to position the two outside 1x4s.
The remaining boards are equally spaced between
the two outside boards. The router is used to widen
the gaps to fit the tie downs. Second image.
The two narrow boards on the outside edges are
⅝ inch high since they cannot be reached by the
router bit. The main bed can be resurfaced a num-
ber of times before large stock would be held high
by these edge boards.

Router bit used to widen slots.

Outside boards ~⅛ inch below other boards.


The boards are rabbeted on their bottom edges
with the machine or a saw before they are screwed Tee slots cut to fit tie down foot.
to the table bed.
The rabbets are ~½ inch wide and ~¼ inch deep.
They are sized to fit the foot of the tie down clamps.
Lower middle images.
The 1¼ inch drywall screws that tie these boards
to the plywood are deeply countersunk so they will
not be hit during resurfacing. Last image. There are
five screws per board with pairs at each end, and
one in the middle.
The boards are not glued to the plywood base to
simplify replacement. Screws are deeply recessed.

83
Limit Switches Overview
Limit switches are an important safety feature, even
on small machines. The limits can trigger a stop for
all movement, including the spindle. This can help
to keep small problems small.

The five limit switches are all secured in CNC cut


housings that are made from ⅜ inch thick plastic.
Right images.
A plastic kitchen cutting board works well enough Straight lever switch in housing.
for this stock.
The g-codes for the housings are linked on the web
site's Site Map page.
The housings allow each of the switches to be
mounted to the machine with a single #8 screw. The
screw slots in the housings permit the switches to
be aligned.
The housings are designed to hold miniature snap
switches that are 0.78 inch long and 0.25 inch
thick. This is a common size sold by Radio Shack
CNC cut limit switch housing.
and Mouser, etc.
The X and Y switches can have straight levers as
shown on this page. A roller lever works better with
the Z axis as shown on the Z switch page.
A variety of wire can be used to connect the switch-
es including 22 gage stranded wire. The stranded
wire is less likely to fatigue and break from bending.
The switches are wired to be normally closed. An
open circuit will trigger a stop.
9/64 inch holes are drilled and tapped into the ma- Screw hole and larger wire hole in aluminum.
chine for the #8 mounting screws. Washers are used
under the screw heads.
A second ¼ inch hole is drilled near the tapped
screw hole for the wires. This wire hole should be
aligned with the recesses in the housing so the wire
will not be crimped when the housing is installed.
Lower middle image.
A strip of electrical tape between the switch and
the aluminum machine insulates the wires. Bottom
image.
Electrical tape covering switch's wires.

84
Sequence Note
The #8-32 x 1½ inch screw with its clamp, tubing
and wire, which are shown in the photos on this
page, can be assembled before the carriage is first
placed on the gantry.
This would lessen the need to remove the carriage
from the gantry for the Z limit switch installation.
When jumping to this page from the Carriage
Installation section:
Install the #8-32 x 1½ inch screw, and clamp the
tube with its wire onto the end of the screw, as de-
scribed on this page.
The loose ends of the tubing and wire can then be Screw that supports tubing on carriage back.
tied or taped out of the way, and the carriage instal-
lation can be continued as described on page 55.

Z Limit Switch, Wire and Tube Mounting


The wire and tubing for the Z limit switch are se-
cured to the back of the carriage plate with a clamp
that is attached to the end of a #8-32 x 1½ inch
machine screw. Right images.
This screw is tightened into the tapped hole under
the leadnut. Top image.
The 28 inch ~22 gage stranded wire for the Z limit
switch is inside a ¼ OD x 16 inch section of clear
vinyl tubing.
A vacuum cleaner or air compressor can be used
to draw or blow a string through the tubing, and Tubing supported by #8-32 x 1½ inch screw.
the string can be used to pull the wire through the
tubing.
The wire can extend 6 inches beyond each end of
the tubing. The excess wire can be removed later.
The tubing is securely attached to the end of the
machine screw with a cable clamp that is sand-
wiched between two nuts and washers. Right im-
ages.
The cable clamp is oriented downward, and the
tubing is passed away from the leadnut side of the
carriage. Bottom image.
The wire is wrapped around the 1½ inch machine
screw, as shown in the images.
The wire can be passed through the switch's wire
hole in the carriage plate after this hole is drilled.
This is addressed later. Tubing travels away from the leadnut.

85
Z Limit Switch Operation
The Z limit switch is mounted on the face of the
carriage. A stop on the Z channel triggers the
switch when the axis is at its upper limit, which
prevents the Z axis from derailing.

There is no limit for the downward movement,


though another stop could be installed on the Z
channel; the stop could use the same limit switch.

Limit Switch Stop


The Z limit switch is triggered by a CNC cut stop
that is screwed to the Z channel. Upper right im-
age.

The stop has a slot to permit adjustment on its at-


tachment screw. Middle image.
Limit switch stop behind Z rail.
The g-code for the stop is linked on the Site Map.

A 9/64 inch hole for the stop's support screw is


drilled and tapped 2¼ inches from the bottom of
the Z channel. Bottom right image.

The stop is used as a template to position the hole


width-ways.

The hole is tapped for a #8-32 x ¼ inch screw, and


the stop is installed. Image below.
Z limit switch stop with adjustment slot.
The stop can be installed now.

Z limit stop screwed to Z channel. Stop screw hole 2¼ inches from bottom end.

86
Z Switch
The Z limit switch is held in one of the CNC cut
housings.
This limit switch can have a roller lever, right image,
which makes it easier to install and remove the Z
channel. A straight lever may catch on the stop.

Switch Placement
The Z axis is moved as high as the bottom V bear-
ings permit before derailment. Middle image.
Z limit switch with roller lever.
The unwired limit switch in its housing is aligned so
it is triggered by the stop. The sound of the switch
clicking can be the indicator.

The housing slot's position is marked on the car-


riage plate. Bottom right image. A 9/64 inch hole is
drilled and tapped at the mark for a #8-32 x ¾ inch
screw.

A ¼ inch hole for the switch's wires is drilled above


the tapped hole. Arrow in bottom image.

This hole should align with a recess in the back of


the housing so the wires are not crimped.

The holes' locations can be marked and drilled at


this time. The small hole is tapped.

The switch can be installed now. This is addressed


on the next page. Z channel as high as possible.

Hole for wire above screw hole in carriage plate. Mark hole position on carriage plate.

87
Z Switch Installation
The Z wires are passed through the hole that was
just drilled in the carriage plate. A section of the
vinyl tubing can be used as a grommet in the hole.
Right image.
The wires are cut and stripped so they align with
the normally closed and common terminals on the
switch.
The wires should be cut close to the carriage plate
so there is not a lot of slack wire behind the car-
riage.
The wires are soldered to the switch.
Electrical tape is put between the switch and the
Switch soldered close to carriage face.
carriage plate to insulate the wires from the metal.
The housing is installed, and the switch is aligned
so it triggers when the Z channel is at its upper
limit.

Secure Tubing to Gantry


A ¼ inch hole for the wire and tubing is drilled in
the back of the gantry ~1 inch from the bottom
rail's center screw. Bottom images.
The tubing is passed behind the leadscrew and
twisted so it remains against the back of the gantry
as the carriage is moved.
The tubing is inserted through the ¼ inch hole in
the gantry beam. It barely protrudes from the back
side of the gantry. Z limit secured to carriage face.
The tube is secured with a cable clamp that is
attached to the middle bottom rail screw. Image
below.

Tubing secured to middle screw with clamp. Hole in lower middle of gantry.

88
Gantry Limits
These two limit switches are in housings that are
held in place with #8-32 x ¾ inch screws.
The switches are positioned in the upper inside cor-
ners of the gantry beam. Right image. The hole lo-
cations for the switches are described in the Gantry
Beam section on page 22.
Each switch is triggered by a #8-32 x 2 inch ma-
chine screw. These screws are threaded through the
9/64 inch holes in the carriage plate.
The left 2 inch stop screw is above the tubing for
the Z limit switch, as shown in the middle photo. Limit switch in housing inside gantry beam.
A nut is threaded onto each screw between the
screw's head and the carriage plate. This nut is used
to lock the screw into place. Bottom photo.
The screw may have to be bent to contact the
switch's lever at the proper travel limit. Bowing the
screw and turning it in its threaded hole adjusts the
point of contact. The nut is then tightened against
the carriage plate to secure the screw.
The switches are installed with their levers hanging
downward.
The switches can be soldered to the wires before the
wires are passed through their holes in the gantry.
The wires can be 16 inches long, which will give
ample length to work with later.
Y limit switch stop screw is above tubing.
The wires can be inside vinyl tubing for extra pro-
tection. Image below.
The gantry limit switches and their stop screws can
be installed and adjusted at this time.

Wire in vinyl tubing behind stepper. Locking Y limit stop screw into place.

89
Cable Cover
A ~16 x 1½ x ½ inch cover made of wood separates
and protects the stepper and the limit switch wires.
The cover's length can vary; it should not interfere
with the steppers.
Two channels are routed or cut in the cover. Right
image.
The top channel is for the stepper cable, and the
lower channel is for the limit switch wires. Channels in wooden stock.
The cover is aligned on the back of the gantry so its
lower channel is over the Z limit wire hole that is These holes are used to mark the positions of the
near the bottom of the gantry beam. matching 9/64 inch holes that are drilled and tapped
in the gantry beam.
The cover is held in place with two #8-32 x ¾ inch
screws. This cover can be made at this time, and its screws'
holes can be drilled and tapped into the gantry
Holes of 11/64 inch are drilled for the screws through beam.
the stock that is between the two channels in the
cover. The holes can be ~3 inches from the cover's The cover is installed after the limit switch wires are
ends. soldered together.

Painted cover screwed to the back of the gantry.

To ease the cover's installation, the limit wires and The tape is trimmed with a razor knife after the
stepper cable can be taped into place before they are cover is secured. Image below.
covered. Image below. The limit wiring is addressed next.

Wires and cable taped to gantry. Trim excess tape with razor knife.

90
Limit Switch Wires
Y Z Y
The three pairs of limit switch wires for the gan- Switch Switch Switch
try and Z axes pass through the back of the gantry
beam.

They are soldered together in series, and a single


pair connects the group to the X axis. Right image. Solder
Connections
The connections are insulated with tape or shrink
tubing, and are protected by the wooden cover.
To
The wire pair that connects the Y and Z limit X
switches to the X limits is protected in a ~24 inch
section of vinyl tubing. The tubing length will vary
depending on the wires and their orientation.

The tubing is tied to one of the stepper cable


clamp's screws with another cable clamp. Middle
right image.

This clamp is oriented so the tubing will not snag


on the end of the X axis.

It may be necessary to loosely tie the limit tubing to


the stepper conduit for the wires to not hang on the
end of the machine.

The wooden cover can be installed after the tubing


is clamped to the gantry end.
Wiring to X limits in tubing and tied to gantry.
The other end of the wire pair can be connected to
a jack plug or other type of connector. Image below.

Jack plug on limit wire pair.


This plug permits the gantry to be disconnected
from the X axis, which makes disassembly for stor-
age easier.

A telephone junction box or similar can be used to


protect the limit wire connections. The box can be
tied to the aluminum angle rail support.

The tubing is secured near the box to prevent the


plug and socket connection from being stressed by
the gantry movement. Right image. Open-able clamp secures plug junction.

91
Limit wiring routed to junction box.

Table Bed Limits

The X limit switches are mounted in housings that


are screwed to the ends of the 2 x 3 aluminum an-
gle. Right image.

The housings are used as guides for drilling and


tapping the 9/64 inch holes in the aluminum angle.
The screws are #8-32 x 1¼ inches.

The limit switches' housings are spaced away from


the vertical leg of the 2 x 3 angle with a section of
⅜ inch thick block, which can be cut from the same
stock as the switch housings. This spacer aligns the
switches with the V bearings.

Holes are drilled and cut in the spacer blocks for Back limit switch at end of 2 x 3 angle.
the wires and screws. Bottom image.

The switches' levers are oriented away from the ta-


ble as shown in the middle image. The V bearings
trip the switches as they pass overhead. Photos on
next page. The switches' levers may need to be bent
for the correct action.

The wiring can be enclosed in vinyl tubing for extra


protection.

The switches' wiring is connected in series to the


other wires in the junction box. A single wire pair
leads from the junction box to the computer's par-
allel port. Drilled and notched spacer block.

92
Front limit switch being activated. Back limit triggered by V bearing.

X Axis Stops
The gantry is designed to be removable from the
table bed; however, this feature permits the gantry
to accidently derail when moved to its extremes.
This is addressed by tapping a stop screw into the
top edge of each end of the rack support angle.
Right images.
A #8-32 x 3/4 inch screw projecting from the angle
abuts the pinion when the axis is at the end of its
travel.
A screw can be unthreaded to take the gantry off of
the table bed. Removing and reinstalling the gantry X axis stop on back of machine.
from the back of the table bed is the easier option.
Stop screws only need to be installed on one side of
the machine.
The back screw is as near the end of the aluminum
angle as possible. Top image.
The location of the front screw is determined by
moving the gantry as far forward as possible before
it derails, or before the pinion leaves the rack. The
screw is positioned so it abuts the pinion when the
axis is at this extreme. The front screw has to be
driven deeply or cut shorter so it does not interfere
with the carriage.
These stop screws are worth the time to install,
especially if the limit switches are not always active. X axis stop near front of rack.

93
Fenders and Dust Guards
Overview

The pinions and top X bearings are covered with


dust guards and CNC cut fenders. These help
to deflect chips and keep stray items from being
pinched by the pinions and bearings. Right images.

The fender's g-code is linked from the website's


Site Map page.

The fenders are made of ¾ inch stock. Quality ply-


wood usually works better than solid wood since
the fenders are thin and can split along the wood's
grain. Bearing covered with fender.
The fenders are tied to the gantry end-plates with
#8-32 x 1 inch screws. These screws also support
the dust guards.

The dust guards are cut from thin metal or plastic


such as flashing, duct pipe, pie tins or deli contain-
ers.

The template for the dust guards can be taped to


the stock and cut with snips or scissors.

The cut stock is bent to shape and screwed to the


end-plates. A #8-32 x ¼ inch machine screw with
washer secures each guard behind the pinion. Bot-
tom image.
Back view of a plastic dust guard.

The dust guard is bent to clear the pinion, and is attached under the fender.

94
Dust Guard Construction

2-3/4 4-1/4

5/8
1/4 3/8 3/8 1/4

1-3/4

1-1/8

4-1/2 2-1/4 1/2


7-1/4

Dust guard template. The same template is used for both sides, but the bends are mirrored.
There is a copy of this template on page 110.

1. Cut stock with template. 2. Punch holes.

3. Bend to right angle on dashed lines. 4. Bend curve around dowel, e.g. broom handle.

95
5. Trim sharp corners. 6. Cut bend junction ~⅛ inch.

7. Bend edge using straight edges as a brake. 8. Install with fender.

Fender Carving
The fenders use the same code for each side of the
machine. The g-code is for 3/4 inch thick stock that
is cut with a 1/4 inch straight bit.
The top of the cut is 0, and the bottom carves into
the bed at -0.8 inch. A spoil board that is secured Wooden CNC cut fender.
underneath the stock is recommended.
The two holes are plunge cut with a clearing retract,
but they still may smoke with the straight bit.
The code includes tabs that keep the piece in the
stock. Lower right images. Cut the tabs; prying the
piece free may split the work.
Note that the gouge in the stock, arrows on the Top view of fender in stock.
right, is part of the g-code where the bit ramps into
the final pass for the tabs. It is not due to backlash;
though it appears to be.
Multiple coats of paint or varnish help to prevent
the finished fender from chipping.
The g-code is linked on the website's Site Map
page. Bottom view of tabs on fender.

96
Knobs
It can be handy to move the axes by hand rather
than by jogging, especially during job preparation.
A variety of knobs on the axes make this easier.
A control knob works well for the Z axis. Knobs
with a 1/4 inch bore and a set screw are easily at-
tached to the stepper's shaft. Right image.
A disk that is cut with a hole saw makes a service-
able knob. Simple CNC cut knobs also work well.
The bore of the knob can be drilled to fit tightly on
the leadscrew or pinion axle. Middle right image.
The hole can be larger so the knob fits tightly over
the hub of a pulley. Image below.
A slot cut in the knob can be clamped shut with a
screw and nut. Bottom left image.
A tee nut in a knob works well with hold down
clamps. Bottom right image.
Knob g-codes are linked on the website's Site Map. Control knob on stepper.

Knob friction fit on pulley hub. Knob threaded onto leadscrew.

Clamping screw and nut, not yet recessed. Knob with tee nut for hold down clamps.

97
Step Per Inch Values The pinion's pitch diameter is 0.75 inch. This value
The step per inch values are required for the soft- times π (3.14) gives the pitch circumference, which
ware to correctly control the machine. is how far the pinion travels with each rotation.
0.75 ∙ π = 2.356 inches
Leadscrew
The leadscrew axes are the simplest to compute Note that in this example the values are rounded.
since the screws turn one time for each stepper When computing the values for the machine, use a
rotation. The leadscrews' turn per inch values are calculator and do not round the numbers.
stated in their designation, e.g. 8-4-2, where 2 is the This 2.356 inch travel moves the table too far for
number of turns per inch of axis movement. the stepper to perform well, (compare this to the
A two turn per inch leadscrew moves the axis 0.5 0.5 inch of travel for the leadscrew).
inch with each stepper turn. Differently sized pulleys are used between the pin-
The steppers are usually 200 steps per revolution. ion and the stepper to change the gear ratio and
This value will be in the steppers' documentation. decrease the travel per stepper turn.
It may be stated as 1.8° per step, which is 200 steps The stepper pulley has 12 teeth and the pinion pul-
per revolution. (360° ∕ 1.8° = 200) ley has 36 teeth. The stepper turns three times for
This value is multiplied by the micro-stepping value every one pinion rotation. 36 ∕ 12 = 3
that the steppers' drives use. This ranges from 2 to The axis moves 2.356 inches when the stepper turns
16 and further, with 8 and 10 being fairly common. 3 times.
With 10 step micro-stepping, the computer will 2.356 divided by 3 is how far the axis moves in one
subdivide each of the 200 steps into 10 micro-steps, stepper rotation.
which will give a value of 200 ∙ 10 = 2000 steps per
stepper revolution. 2.356 / 3 = 0.785 inch per stepper turn.

This number divided by the distance the leadscrew With 200 steps per rotation and 10 micro-steps per
moves the axis with each rotation gives the number step, there are 2000 steps per stepper rotation.
of steps per inch. 2000 steps per stepper rotation divided by 0.785
2000 steps / 0.5 inch = 4000 steps per inch. inch per rotation gives the number of steps per inch.

This value is entered into the Step Per Unit dialogue 2000 / 0.785 = ~2547 steps per inch. This value (not
box in the controlling software, such as Mach. rounded) is entered in the Steps per Unit box in the
software.
The reciprocal of this number is the resolution of
the axis. 1 ∕ 4000 = 0.00025 inch per step. This is The reciprocal is 0.00039 inch, which is the resolu-
the smallest distance the axis can be commanded to tion, the distance the axis moves with each step.
move. This number is often smaller than the actual
precision of the machine due to backlash and flex. Acceleration
The Acceleration value is set by trial and error.
Rack and Pinion
The rack and pinion axis is determined similarly, A too low setting will cause the table to move slug-
but the pitch diameter of the pinion, and the gear gishly, and too fast will snap the table around, which
ratio between the stepper and the pinion are in- will cause the steppers to stall.
cluded. Erring toward slow is better than risking a stalled
axis.

98
Speed, Velocity makes tightening the set screws easier since the
This can initially be set to half the anticipated final screws are in the hub rather than in the toothed
speed (e.g. final speed calculated by: 500 rpm / inch section of the pulley, which would be blocked by
of travel per stepper turn) and then the speed can the belt.
be increased by trial and error as the axes are tested
The bores of the pulleys can be drilled to larger siz-
and aligned. As with the acceleration, it is better
es. It is worth noting that metric XL pulleys are the
to err toward slow rather than to risk a stalled axis.
same as imperial pulleys except for the bore size.
Therefore, an imperial pulley can be drilled to a
Axis Names
metric size, and vice versa. This can be handy when
The axes' letter designations can be changed when the desired size is unavailable.
configuring the software.
The longest axis in these plans is the table bed X Leadscrew and Leadnut Notes
axis since signs and other jobs, when designed in
Many options are available. The fewer turns per
CAD, are often longer in the X direction. However,
inch the faster the machine will be able to move.
when looking toward the gantry, the common left-
right X movement is the carriage on the gantry. Two turn per inch leadscrews have served well on
Switching the X and Y axis names is not a problem, the machine in these plans. 10-5-2 and 8-4-2 lead-
and it may make work more intuitive. screws have performed similarly.
It is best to set up the machine so the CAD-CAM The load rating of similarly sized leadscrews is
coordinates, the keyboard, the monitor and the ma- nearly the same, and is beyond what the NEMA 23
chine are all in alignment. It is safer and easier to steppers can deliver.
not have to rotate the mental map of the process
while refocusing between components. Plastic anti-backlash leadnuts are generally rated
for less than 20 pounds of force, which is well below
the leadscrews' ratings. Cutting forces are usually
below 5 pounds, so the plastic leadnuts serve well
Pulley Notes on these smaller machines.

The XL pulleys are commonly found sizes that are With 269 oz.in. steppers driven by Geckodrives,
available from a number of suppliers. rapids over 600 inches per minute have been
achieved on this machine with two turn per inch
The pulleys can be made of a variety of materials leadscrews.
including aluminum, steel, or plastic with alumi-
num inserts. All of these have served well. This machine with lower powered drives such as
HobbyCNC has achieved speeds in excess of 200
The set screws can strip threads in solid plastic pul- ipm when using 2 turn per inch leadscrews.
leys. This has not been a problem in the plastic pul-
leys with aluminum inserts. Five turn per inch leadscrews have also served well,
but they are slower.
The small set screws in the 12 tooth pulley are hard
to keep tightened. Resolutions include pinning the Generally, an assumption of 500 rpm for the step-
pulley to the stepper shaft, and using thread locker per will give a rough expectation of the machine's
such as Loctite. top speed with smaller drives.

Another option that has served well is retapping the Divide the stepper's speed by the leadscrew turn-
set screw holes to accept #10-32 set screws rather count for the axis' speed. E.g. 500 rpm / 5 turns per
than the #6 or #8 screws that come with the pulley. inch = 100 inches per minute.

It is best for all pulleys to have two flanges and a More powerful drives such as Geckos can drive the
hub. The flanges keep the belt on track. The hub steppers over 1000 rpm.

99
Actual cutting speeds on a small machine can be Scaling Notes
well below the potential top speed because the table
The table was designed to use off the shelf stock in
does not have the area for the steppers to accelerate
standard lengths. The 2 foot gantry beam and racks
to the maximum velocity.
determine the cutting area. These can be enlarged.
For example: A job that is g-coded to cut at 700
The rack axis can easily be made longer. The limi-
ipm may actually move at a third of that speed; the
tations are the length of the rails used with the V
steppers do not have time to reach their maximum
bearings, and the solidity of the bed. Racks can be
speed before they have to change direction.
abutted for virtually infinite length.
Note that fast leadscrews, such as two turn per inch,
For the gantry axis, a 4 inch beam up to 3 feet long
can more easily be back-driven. Forces applied to
has served well on other trim router machines that
the axis will turn the leadscrew.
have been built here. The limitation is, longer beams
On a Z axis the weight of a heavy router-spindle flex with aggressive cutting, and lengths over 3 feet
can cause the axis to fall when the stepper is dis- begin to chatter enough that upgrading to heavier
abled. This has been an annoyance on machines stock is warranted.
that use a full sized router. It is resolved by using a
Heavier stock, such as 6 inch channel, could be
five turn per inch leadscrew on the Z axis.
used for a longer gantry, but taking advantage of
Back driving with two turn per inch leadscrews has its strength requires other upgrades, which require
generally not been a problem on machines that use significant alterations.
a trim router. But it is important to not assume that
The Z axis can be made longer by increasing the
the axis maintained position while the axis was dis-
length of the 1 x 2 inch channel, the Z rails, and
abled.
the leadscrew.
Rail Notes The legs can be made higher with 2 x 4 inch tubing,
It is the opinion here that it is hard to justify the for example, to give more Z travel. The limitation is,
cost of hardened proprietary rails on this DIY ma- the farther the router bit is from the support of the
chine. gantry and carriage, the more it will chatter.

Standard mild steel is used for the rails rather than A larger router has been tested on a prototype of
proprietary V rails because of cost, ease of construc- this machine; the router cannot be pushed to its
tion, availability and performance. The steel angle potential without the aluminum flexing.
and flat bar permit a simpler layout than com- The flexing allows chatter, which yields rough cuts.
mercially supplied V rails allow, while giving good This can be addressed by making shallower passes,
speeds and accuracy. but this defeats one of the reasons for using a larger
The mild steel will deform with use, and the bear- router. However, a larger router can still be useful
ings can be adjusted to compensate. The deforma- because of its longer life, and its ability to use a
tion is rapid at first as the bearings press tracks into wider variety of bits.
the metal. This stabilizes after a few hours of use. As mentioned in the Leadscrew section, a large
There are many factors that limit the performance router will cause fast leadscrews such as 2 turn per
of DIY CNC machines. Steel rails are not the weak inch, to back-drive on the Z axis. This is a nuisance,
link. Softer aluminum rails would be a limitation. and can be remedied by using a five or more turn
per inch leadscrew on the Z.
On a related note, temperature changes will cause
the aluminum components to expand and contract, The machines have been pushed hard to find the
which will change the bearing tension against the weak links. Generally, the NEMA 23 steppers, trim
rails. A cold machine can be sluggish due to excess router and thin aluminum all fail in the same range
bearing tension caused by contraction. of forces. An overly aggressive cut will either stall a

100
stepper, stall the trim router, or tear the stock with Geckos cost more than the other drives, but they
chatter caused by the machine flexing. Upgrading perform better. They can handle higher voltages,
one element without upgrading all of the others which gives more power and higher top speeds.
will not greatly improve performance. Gecko and Xylotex have axis disable functions,
which permit the axes to be moved by hand. This
is handy for setting up cuts without having to reset
the software. HobbyCNC lacks this useful feature.
There are now many suppliers for drives and step-
pers. Buying all stepper and drive components from
one supplier helps to ensure that the parts will work
well together, and it makes support easier since one
supplier is familiar with all elements.

Wrap Up
The machine is initially operated at slow speeds to
check for alignment and proper performance.
Hardware is checked for tightness; vibration will
Cradles with band clamps for larger router. loosen parts. Thread locker is helpful. A wicking
variety such as Loctite Green works well because it
can be applied to assembled components. It forms
a secure but breakable bond, which permits later
adjustments.
The bearings will press tracks into the rails and will
need to be retightened to remove play.
A simple check for overall tightness of the machine
can be done by firmly grabbing the Z assembly and
rocking it as though trying to pull the gantry from
the racks and rails. Any looseness can be felt and/or
heard as parts move. It is usually straightforward to
find and tighten the loose components.
A loose pulley can be challenging to find since the
movement may be too small to see, though it can be
visible in a CNC cut.
Installing larger set screws in the pulleys has re-
solved this. Thread locker between the bore and
Larger router back drives a 2 turn/inch leadscrew. shaft also works, but it makes pulley removal dif-
ficult.
The machine should not be operated until the wires
Stepper and Drive Notes are secured and an E-stop is working.
The machine is designed to use NEMA 23 step- It is important to keep hands out of the working
pers. It has been tested with a range of steppers and area. The machine can move very rapidly in an
drives from a 200 oz.in. HobbyCNC system to 269 unexpected direction. The machine can also grab
oz.in. steppers with Geckodrives and Xylotex. The and violently throw a piece of stock. Take care;
larger steppers give faster speeds and higher cutting though the machine is small, it must be treated
forces. with respect.

101
Supplier Notes
Pulleys and belts are available from a variety of Roton.com sells leadscrews and leadnuts, but their
suppliers including mcmaster.com, sdp-si.com and other offerings are limited.
econobelt.com. Their inventories change regularly Onlinemetals.com is the supplier for the alumi-
and it may be necessary to shop among these to num. Their smaller steel stock has arrived bent, so it
find the exact match that is currently available. The is recommended to buy it locally. The steel is usually
following Materials List mentions a number of op- available from home centers.
tions that will work for the pulleys and belts.
The R6 and R8 bearings are standard sizes and are
The racks and their pinion-spur gears are from mc- available from a number of suppliers. Skatebear-
master.com. ings.com and vxb.com sell online.
Dumpstercnc.com sells leadnut components. The The V bearings are from vxb.com.
multi-start screws are not standardized, so it is nec-
essary to use the brands that the components are Auto parts stores are a source for the corrugated
made to match. All 3/8-8-4-2 leadscrews are not the split conduit, and thread locker such as Loctite.
same, for example. Many of dumpstercnc’s compo-
nents are for mcmaster.com leadscrews.

102
Materials Lists
There are two lists, a condensed one on page 108, and a longer one with comments that starts on this page.
The Quantity and (May Buy) column lists the amount needed in inches. The likely available size is in paren-
theses (listed in feet).

Notes Quantity Material Where Used, and Comments


(May Buy)
Aluminum. All Available from Onlinemetals.com.
~7'' (1' ) ¼'' x 2½'' Flat Bar 6061 T6511 Z top, Z heat sink. Leftover 6'' flat bar can be used
instead of the 2½'' stock. The 2½'' stock requires
fewer cuts.
26'' (3') ¼'' x 6'' Flat Bar 6061 T6511 Gantry ends, carriage plate
~4'' (1') 1'' x 1'' x ⅛'' Angle 6061 T6 Leadnut brackets. Can also be 6063 T52
60'' (5') 2'' x 3'' x ¼'' Angle 6063 T52 X rail supports
24'' (2') 2'' x 3'' x ⅛'' Rect. Tube 6063 T52 Legs, rectangular tube
12'' (1') 2'' x 1'' x ⅛'' Channel 6063 T52 Z body
24'' (2') 4''x1.647'' x 0.247'' Channel 6061T6 Gantry beam
~30'' (3') ⅜'' Rod, Al. 6061 T6511, or Wood Offset bushings. (Extra length for clamping)
Steel. Purchase Locally for Quality Check.
72'' ½'' x ½'' x ⅛'' Angle Angle for Y and Z rails, flat bar for X rails.
(2 @ 3') The edges need to be smooth so the bearings will
60'' ⅛'' x ¾'' Flat Bar ride well. Online orders have arrived bent.
(2@3')
26'' (3') ⅜'' Rod Pinion axle. Needs to be straight.
Wood
~102'' 2x3 Board Base frame. Actual size is 11/2'' x 21/2''. A 2x4 will also
(2 @ 8') work.
~180'' 1x4 Board Tee slots, leg caps. Actual size 3/4'' x 31/2''. This size
(2 @ 8') chosen for ease of use. Other sizes can be ripped as
desired.
~30''x 30'' ¾'' Plywood Base, fenders, knobs. Plywood is stiffer than MDF.
(½ Sheet) Smooth rigid stock is best.
Machine Screws, Bolts, Threaded Rod
3 #8-32 x ¼'' Round Head Pinion Dust Cover 2, Z limit stop 1.
2 #8-32 x ⅜'' Flat Head Router band 2; flat head needed for clearance be-
hind router. Round head could be filed.
5 #8-32 x ⅜'' Round Head Z rails 4, Z guide strip end 1.
36 #8-32 x ¾'' Y rails 10, Z rails 2, leadnuts 8, Y bearing flange 2,
limits 3, stepper mounts 7, wire cover 2, X stops 2.
7 #8-32 x 1'' Cord mast 1, fenders 4, Kwik Klip clamp 2.
14 #8-32 x 1¼'' Rack mount 12, X limit switch 2. Could buy this
length in bulk for the shorter screws, and cut as
needed.

103
1 #8-32 x 1½'' Z limit tubing support 1
2 #8-32 x 2'' Y limit stop 2
4 #10-24 x 2½'' Z Stepper 4
1 ¼-20 x ¾'' Router base 1
1 ¼-20 x 1'' Router strap 1
6 ¼-20 x 1¼'' V bearing X axles 6
1 ¼-20 x 1½'' Belt tensioner 1
8 ¼-20 x 1½'' Full Thread V bearing Y and Z axles 8
4 Set Screws #10-32 x ⅛'' Pinions 2. Can be #8-32 or coarser thread, but fine
thread larger diameter tends to hold better. Need to
be short so they do not hit the aluminum rack sup-
port. 1/4'' can be filed to length on the socket end, not
the cupped end. 12 tooth pulley 2 replace originals.
2 #10-24 Eye Bolt Secure Z top plate
~8'' (1') #10-24 Threaded Rod Gantry studs
58'' ¼-20 Threaded Rod Tie rail supports to bed. (10 @ 53/4'')
3 Small Machine Screws Tie clamps to steppers. The size varies with the step-
~3-5 mm, #4 -6 pers. Computer cabinet screws often fit.
Nuts
64 #8-32 Rack rails 16, Y rails 10, Z rails 6, steppers 8, mast
1, Y limit probes 2, leadnuts 8, Y bearing flange 2, Z
limit tube hanger 2, Z tube end clamp 1, router band
2, Z band wing nut 1, Kwik Klip clamp 5.
22 #10-24 Z stepper 14, gantry end 6, eye bolt 2.
34 ¼-20 Legs 10, X rail bearings 6, carriage V 16, tensioner 1,
router band 1.
1 Wing Nut #8-32 Z Cable guide strip
10 Tee Nuts ¼-20 Tie racks angles to bed
5 #10-24 Cap Nuts (Optional) Gantry studs
10 ¼-20 Cap Nuts (Optional) Leg studs
Flat Washers
50 #8 Steppers 8, mast 2, Y rails 10, limit housings 5, limit
tube supports 3, clamps 6, back cover 2, bearing
flange 2, leadnuts 8, Z cable guide 2, router band 2.
22 #10 Gantry studs 6, Z stepper 14, eye bolts 2. A 100
count box of #10 could be used for all #8 and #10
washers.
72 ¼'' V Bearings X 12, Y 16, Z 20, legs 10, tensioner 4, X
7/8 bearings 8, router band strap 2.

104
Lock Washers
17 ¼'' Lock Washer Router base 1, router band 1, X bearings 6, Y and Z
bearings 8, X tensioner 1. All are optional.
~3 ⅜'' Finned Lock Washer Leadscrew bearing to pulley spacer. Keeps pulley
from scraping bearing. Needs to be as thin as pos-
sible to keep pulleys near the end-plate.
May need one with coupler and collar clamps.
~2 ⅜'' Split Lock Washer Pinion spacer. Use pliers to align the cut edges so
they are flat. Their small outside diameter usually
clears the X rails and does not scrape the bearings.
Drywall Screws
31 1¼'' Tee Slots
>12 15/8'' Ply to 2x3 frame. A 1 pound box of 15/8'' will supply
enough for all drywall screws. The extra length will
protrude through the bottom of the plywood with
the tee slots.
Dowels
6'' ¼'' Wood Cord mast. Can be different diameter. Leftover
bushing stock, threaded rod, or pencil, etc. will work.
Must fit spring.
2'' ½'' Wood Tensioner bushing
Bearings
12 RM2ZZ ⅜'' Bore V Bearings Ride all rails. From vxb.com
8 R6 7/8'' x ⅜'' Bearings Leadscrews, pinion axle, and X rails. Can have metal
shields or rubber seals. (ZZ or 2RS) Standard size,
multiple suppliers, e.g. skatebearings.com
2 R8 1⅛'' x ½'' Bearings Pinion belt tensioner. See above note.
R6 bearings can be used here, but belt manufacturers
recommend >1'' idler diameter.
XL 3/8'' Belts & Pulleys
1 15 Tooth XL Pulley ⅜'' Bore Leadscrew. All of the pulleys can be aluminum, steel,
or plastic with a metal insert. It is better if they have
two flanges and a hub.
1 15 Tooth XL Pulley ¼'' Bore Leadscrew stepper, must fit stepper shaft diameter.
1 12 Tooth XL Pulley ¼'' Bore Pinion stepper, must fit stepper shaft diameter.
1 36 Tooth XL Pulley ⅜'' Bore Pinion axle
1 40 Tooth ⅜'' wide XL Belt Leadscrew drive. There are many options of material
and cord. Neoprene, urethane, polyester, fiberglass,
etc. Neoprene is quieter and more flexible than ure-
thane, but all options have served well.
1 65 Tooth ⅜'' wide XL Belt Pinion drive. See above note.

105
Racks and Pinions
2 Pinions Spur Gears X axis. 15 Teeth, 20° pressure angle, 20 pitch, 3/8''
bore, 0.75'' pitch diameter.
mcmaster.com #5172T11
2 2' Racks X axis. 1/2'' x 1/2'' , 20 Pitch.
mcmaster.com #5174T1
Leadscrew & Leadnut Parts
1 36'' x ⅜-8-4 Start 2 Turn Leadscrew Y and Z axes. One 36'' screw is cut into two sec-
tions. Two or five turns per inch work well. Two
turns are faster, but can allow a disabled Z stepper
to drop a heavy router. This has not been a problem
with a trim router.
2 ⅜-8-4-2 Leadnut Y and Z axes. Leadnuts, clamps and couplers must
all exactly match the threads of the leadscrew.
Dumpstercnc.com has served well for these parts.
2 ⅜-8-4-2 Collar Clamp Y and Z axes. A section of hose held in place with a
band clamp can replace this.
1 ⅜-8-4-2 x ¼'' Leadscrew to Stepper For ¼'' shaft Z stepper. Can also use spider couplers
Coupler or flex couplers. The price and simplicity of the one
shown in these plans is appreciated.
Wire Protection Components
~6 Zip Ties, Small Sized Tie Z stepper cable to plastic guide. Could use twist
ties, tape, etc.
~6'' Stiff Wire Router cord standoff from mast. Fence wire, coat
hanger, solid electrical wire, etc.
1 Coil Spring Cord mast. Spring needs to fit the mast. A range of
sizes will work.
27'' x ~5/8'' Plastic Strip Z cable guide. It keeps the cable from falling and
kinking. This can be any flexible plastic or metal
strip. Band strap, vinyl siding nailing strip, siding
coil stock, flashing, drywall corner bead, wire loom-
ing, tubing, etc.
~3' ⅜'' Corrugated Split Conduit This product flexes well and is split so the wires can
be removed easily.
It is sold in automotive stores and in home enter-
tainment sections of department stores.
2 @ 1/2 '' Cable Clamp Adjustable “Kwik Klip” These are found in the electrical section of home
1 @ ⅜'' supply stores with cable clamps. Their ability to be
opened makes it possible to easily remove the wires
for machine disassembly.
1/2'' is used for the stepper cables in their split con-
duit.
⅜'' is used to secure the limit switch wires near the
junction box. It may be necessary to tape-wrap the
tubing so it will fit tightly in the clamp.

106
Limit Switch Components
1+4 Limit Switches SPDT Snap switches with levers. Body size is 0.78''
x 0.25''
Roller switch better for Z.
Radio Shack # 275-017 (Roller)
Straight levers for others.
Mouser # 101-1203 (Straight lever)
~12' Vinyl Tubing Wire cover. This tubing keeps the Z limit wire pair
¼'' OD x 1.70 ID that is behind the carriage from falling into the lead-
screw. It also protects the other exposed limit wiring.
Sold in home centers. Stiffer sheathed cable may
eliminate the need for this tubing.
1 Junction Box “Surface Mount Phone Jack.” Serves well as raw ma-
terial for small junction box. Has to be drilled, etc.
1 Set Plug and Socket For limit wires. Optional, could alternatively use
wire nuts, terminal strip, or solder. The plug permits
easy disassembly. A large range of plugs and sockets
will work.
~15' Wire 22 Ga. Stranded 2 Conductor This wire needs to be flexible, so stranded rather
than solid wire is preferred. Shielded-sheathed wire
is best, but most anything will do, though unshielded
wire may pick up electrical noise and give false
signals. Opto couplers address this. Rough lengths
follow. Z 28'', Y 2 @ 16'', X 2 @ 20'', gantry traveler
~24'', to parallel port ~50''
Electrical Solder Connect limit switches and wiring.
Electrical Tape Insulate limit switches
Heat Shrink Tubing Insulate limit wires
Miscellaneous
Small Wood Glue Glue 2x3 to plywood. Carpenters' yellow glue serves
Bottle well.
1 Tube Loctite Green Thread Locker Not permanent, wicks into joint and can be applied
after assembly.
1 Small ⅜'' Kitchen Cutting Board Limit switch housings and Y bearing flange. This
Board is an inexpensive source for plastic stock. Delrin is
better but costly. The bearing flange can be 3/16'' or
thicker. The limit switch housing g-codes are for 3/8''
thick stock; 1/4'' stock is too thin.
Thin Plastic or Metal Shims, cable camps, dust guards. The stock can be
from food containers, flashing, siding coil stock, etc.
2 ¼'' Copper Coupler Pinion spacer. Found in plumbing section of home
2 ⅜'' Compression Bushing centers. Two spacers are needed. Can be couplers or
bushings.

107
Condensed Materials List

Notes Quantity Material Notes Quantity Material


(May Buy) Nuts
Aluminum. All from Onlinemetals.com. 64 #8-32
~7'' (1' ) ¼'' x 2½'' Flat Bar 22 #10-24
26'' (3') ¼'' x 6'' Flat Bar 34 ¼-20
60'' (5') 2'' x 3'' x ¼'' Angle
1 Wing Nut #8-32
~4'' (1') 1'' x 1'' x ⅛'' Angle
24'' (2') 2'' x 3'' x ⅛'' Rect. Tube 10 Tee Nuts ¼''-20
12'' (1') 2'' x 1'' x ⅛'' Channel 5 #10-24 Cap Nuts (Optional)
24'' (2') 4''x1.647'' x 0.247'' Channel
10 ¼-20 Cap Nuts (Optional)
~30''(3') ⅜'' Rod, Al. or Wood
Flat Washers
Steel. Purchase Locally for Quality Check.
50 #8
72'' (2@3') ½'' x ½'' ⅛'' Angle
22 #10
60'' (2@3') ⅛'' x ¾'' Flat Bar
72 ¼''
26'' (3') ⅜'' Rod
Lock Washers
Wood
17 ¼'' Lock Washer
~102''(2@8') 2x3 Board
~3 ⅜'' Finned Lock Washer
~180''(2@8') 1x4 Board
~2 ⅜'' Split Lock Washer
(½ Sheet) ¾'' Plywood ~30'' x 30''
Drywall Screws
Machine Screws, Bolts, Threaded Rod
31 1¼''
3 #8-32 x ¼'' Round Head
>12 15/8''
2 #8-32 x ⅜'' Flat Head
Dowels
5 #8-32 x ⅜'' Round Head
6'' ¼'' Wood
36 #8-32 x ¾''
2'' ½'' Wood
7 #8-32 x 1''
Bearings
14 #8-32 x 1¼''
12 RM2ZZ ⅜'' Bore V Bearings
1 #8-32 x 1½''
8 R6 7/8'' x ⅜'' Bearings
2 #8-32 x 2''
2 R8 1⅛'' x ½'' Bearings
4 #10-24 x 2½'' XL 3/8'' Belts & Pulleys
1 ¼-20 x ¾'' 1 15 Tooth XL Pulley ⅜'' Bore
1 ¼-20 x 1'' 1 15 Tooth XL Pulley ¼'' Bore
6 ¼-20 x 1¼'' 1 12 Tooth XL Pulley ¼'' Bore
1 ¼-20 x 1½'' 1 36 Tooth XL Pulley ⅜'' Bore
8 ¼-20 x 1½'' Full Thread 1 40 Tooth ⅜'' Wide XL Belt
1 65 Tooth ⅜'' Wide XL Belt
4 Set Screws #10-32 x ⅛''
Leadscrew & Leadnut Components
2 #10-24 Eye Bolt 1 36'' x ⅜''-8-4-2 Leadscrew
~8'' (1') #10-24 Threaded Rod 2 ⅜''-8-4-2 Leadnut
58'' ¼''-20 Threaded Rod 2 ⅜''-8-4-2 Collar Clamp
3 Screws ~3-5 mm, #4 -6 1 ⅜''-8-4 -2 x ¼'' Leadscrew to
Stepper Coupler
Continued on next page.
108
Notes Quantity Material
Racks and Pinions
2 Pinions Spur Gears, mcmaster.com #5172T11
2 2 ft. Racks, mcmaster.com #5174T1
Wire Protection Components
~6 Zip Ties, Small Sized
~6'' Stiff Wire
1 Coil Spring
27'' x ~5/8'' Plastic Strip
~3' ⅜'' Corrugated Split Conduit
2 @ 1/2 '' Cable Clamp, Adjustable “Kwik Klip”
1 @ ⅜''
Limit Switch Components
1+4 Limit Switches: Roller Lever, Straight Lever
~12' Vinyl Tubing ¼'' OD x 1.70'' ID
1 Junction Box
1 Set Plug and Socket
~15' Wire 22 Ga. Stranded 2 Conductor
Electrical Solder
Electrical Tape
Heat Shrink Tubing
Miscellaneous
Small Bottle Wood Glue
1 Tube Loctite Green Thread Locker
1 Small Board ⅜'' Kitchen Cutting Board
Thin Plastic or Metal
2 ¼'' Copper Coupler or
⅜'' Compression Bushing

109
2-1/2
5/16 5/16
1-7/8
5/16

Ø7/8
Recess Ø5/8

2-1/2

1/2 1/2
1-1/4
1 5/16
Ø1/4
5/16
1-1/4
5/16

Z top plate template. Bottom view.


From page 67.

2-3/4 4-1/4

5/8
1/4 3/8 3/8 1/4

1-3/4

1-1/8

4-1/2 2-1/4 1/2


7-1/4

Dust guard template.


From page 95.

110

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