About the Breed

Body Type

The general type of the Dutch rabbit should be relatively rounded and balanced throughout. It
should start from behind the head, over the shoulders to the highest point of the loin and
rounding off over the hindquarters. The shoulders should remain well rounded. Regardless of
whether it is a small or large Dutch they should remain well rounded.

Varieties

Black Dutch should have a dense, uniform jet-black, very

glossy, running deep toward the skin, blending into a slate
blue undercolor next to the skin. Black Dutch must have
dark-brown eye color. Faults of the black color would
include white hairs, frostiness, brownish/rust.

Blue Dutch should have a uniform medium-dark blue, very

glossy, running deep towards the skin, to blend into a slate
blue undercolor next to the skin. The eye color must be
blue-gray. Faults of the blue color would include white
hairs, smoky blue, silvery blue, or lilac shadings.

Chinchilla Dutch The suface color on top and sides of the

body is to be pearl white ticked with black. There is to be a
black band at the top of the intermediary band. The
intermediate band is to be well-defined pearl white over a
dark slate blue undercolor. The belly should display a white
surface color, with a slate blue undercolor. The belly should
display a white surface color, with a slate blue undercolor,
extending from inside the rear legs over the belly to the
undercut. The top of the tail is to be black sparsely ticked
with white. Ears are laced in black. Eye circles are
desirable. Eyes - dark brown preferred, blue-gray
permissible.

Chocolate Dutch should be a very glossy, uniform, dark

chocolate brown running deep towards the skin, blending
into a bluish dove under color next to the skin. Eyes must
be a dark-brown, a ruby cast is permissible.

Gray Dutch color is to have an agouti pattern, showing

distinct bands of color. Colors on the hair shaft should be
slate blue at the base, followed by medium tan, then a thin
charcoal brown band, finishing with a lighter tan band.
Colored portions of the body should be uniformly dispersed
with black guard hairs. Narrow black lacing on the ears is
desirable. Eye circles should be narrow and tan in color.
The belly should display a white or cream surface color,
with a slate blue undercolor, extending from inside the rear
legs over the belly to the undercut. The undercut is
determined by blowing into the fur. Eyes to be dark brown.
Faults include brassy tinge, white hairs, light surface color
on body. Lack of uniform disbursement of black guard
hairs. Disqualifications would include absence of
intermediate ring color over the colored portion of the
body. Absence of slate blue under color on the belly.

Steel Dutch the entire colored portion of the body is to be

black, with a uniform disbursement of off-white or cream
coloration on some of the hair tips. Undercolor is to be a
slate blue, carried as deep towards the skin as possible.
Surface color of the under portion of the tail, belly, and
inside of hind legs are to be as near the body color as
possible. Crotch marks are accepted. Eyes-Dark Brown.
Faults would include lack of steel coloration over the back;
brassy or yellow appearance; white hairs in colored
sections. Disqualifications include ring pattern over the
back or upper sides. White underside of tail.

Tortoise Dutch color is to be a bright, clean orange,

 blending into smokey-blue shading over the lower rump,
and carrying well down the haunches. The top color should
carry down into the under color, blending into a dark cream
color next to the skin. Upper portion of tail color should
match top body color. The shadings on the head should be
the darkest at the whisker bed, blending into lighter
shadings on the jaws, darkening again at the ear base, and
blending up the ears to match body color. The smoky blue
shading is to include the underside of the tail. Eyes to be
Dark Brown. Faults include white hairs, smut or smudge,
throughout the orange color, lack of bold shadings,
underside of tail light in color. Disqualifications include the
absence of shadings.

Markings

It is important that the markings of the Dutch are to be clean and clear, distinct, and free of drags
of opposite color.

Cheeks: Cheeks are to be well rounded and carried around the whisker bed, but not
into it. Faults include the cheeks being hooked (i.e. not well rounded and
coming sharp to the jaw bone), meeting the line of the neck, or dragging into
the mouth or throat. Faults also include the cheeks being to high, whether
above the whisker bed or appearing as eye circles.

Blaze: The blaze is the marking along the face. It should be in a wedge shape and
about medium width. The blaze should cover the nose, whisker bed, and
tapering up to the ears. Although, there are no additional points added, it is
desirable to have a hair line (where the blaze goes between the ears and
connecting to the neck marking).

Neck: The neck marking is the white part on the collar behind the ears. It should be
a clean and wedged shape marking. An animal with no or full neck marking
is not disqualified, but is faulted. Dirty necks (where it is not a clean shape)
will be faulted.

Saddle: The saddle marking is point on the upper body where the white fur meets the
colored fur. This should begin just behind the shoulders and create a perfect
circle around the body.

Undercut: The undercut is the marking on the underbody that connects to the saddle. It
should create a perfect circle and should be close behind the forelegs, but
touching them. It is a disqualification if the body color extends past the
 elbow joint of the forleg.

Stops: On the hind feet, the stop markings should be well rounded. There should be
white from the toes to about one third of the length of the foot, where the
color fur begins. Disqualifications include if the color fur of the marking
runs completely and between the toes. The toes can be separated for
identification of the split stop.

General Information

The Dutch Rabbit is a very gentle and a well dispositional animal. They make a great rabbit for
the beginner to the well advanced exhibitor.

The senior (over 6 months) weight should be between 3 1/2 lbs to 5 1/2 lbs.

Feeding:
Every rabbit raiser has their own preference on what pellet to feed. It is, however,
important to feed a high quality pellet (i.e. Heinold®, Purina®, Nutrena®, etc.).
Supplements, again, are the owner's preference. It's very important that any rabbit gets
Timothy Hay in their diet on a daily basis. Timothy will help prevent intestinal
obstruction. Fresh water on a daily basis is an important key in maintaining a healthy
and conditioned rabbit.

Breeding:
The gestation period for a Dutch rabbit is usually between 28-32 days. Average size of
litter is around 6 kits. Kits are born blind and eyes will open anywhere between 7-14
days.

Housing:
All rabbits require a well ventilated area to help prevent disease (i.e. pasturella). Dutch
are a relatively small breed and don't require a very large cage, usually 24"x24" is a
good sized cage.

Purchasing:
When purchasing a Dutch rabbit, it is important to keep in mind the purpose of the
rabbit you are about to buy (i.e. breeding, showing, pet). No matter what the purpose
is, it is very important to keep the health of the rabbit in mind and do a good
examination on the rabbit first. Check the teeth for any signs of malocclusion (long,
lower incisors extending in front of upper incisors, etc.) teeth problems are hereditary
and it wouldn't hurt to see the sire & dam's teeth (if applicable). Check the ears for any
dirt that may resemble ear mites. It is extremely important to look at the nose, eyes,
and forearms, for any evidence of a cold or upper respiratory infection. For a show or
breeding rabbit, it is important to look at the bone structure of the animal. Check the
hind legs for straightness and there is no evidence of cow hocks (where the hind legs
are turned so the toes are pointing outward). Check for pinched hindquarters (where the
hindquarters taper towards the tail and are not well rounded). Check vent, especially a
buck to be sure both testicles are noticeable. Check toe nails and eye colors to be sure it
is the appropriate color via the Standard of Perfection, which can be purchased on the
website for ARBA, it is listed under publications. If it will be your first show or
breeding rabbit you purchase, it helps to have the Standard of Perfection with you as a
reference to what you want. Remember, there may be no such thing as a perfect Dutch,
but there is a difference between a good and a bad Dutch.

If you are interested in showing or raising Dutch, feel free to contact your board representative or
ADRC member for further information.

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Non-Recognized Varieties

At this time, there are no COD's being held on Dutch.

If you would like information about non-recognized varieties, please click here.

Common Genotypes for Dutch Rabbits from the ADRC Guidebook

By Joanne Parker and updated Glenna Huffmon

Additions by Jill E. Pfaff 1/2000

Recognized Varieties

Black Blue Chocolate Gray Steel Tortoise

A-B-D-EE A-B-ddEE A-bbD-EE A-B-D-eg- A-b-D-Ee aaB-D-ee
aaB-D-E- aaB-ddE- abb-D-E- aaB-D-eg-
aaB-D-eg- aaB-ddeg- aabbD-eg-

AOV
 Gold/Yellow Fawn Blue Fawn Choc-Fawn Lilac Fawn
A-B-D-ee A---ddee aaB-ddee aabbD-ee aabbddee

Harlequin- Harlequin- Harlequin- Harlequin- Barred-

Black Blue Chocolate Lilac Agouti
A-B-D-ej- A-B-d-ej- A-b-D-ej- A-bbddej- A-B-D-
egej

Blue- Choc-gray or Lilac- Blue- Choc-

gray Cinnamon gray Steel Steel
or Opal
A-B- A-bbD-eg- A-bbddeg- A-B- A-bbD-Eeg
ddeg- ddEeg
A-B-ddEe A-bbD-Ee

Back to Home
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Dutch are born in a variety of colors that are not recognized. At this time, the colors listed below
do not hold a current certificate of development. To help members identify these colors, pictures
will be placed here of varieties that can appear in your nest boxes. If you have a picture of a non-
recognized variety and would like to post it on this site, please
e-mail the picture to Julie Hume.

Red
Gold
Black Harlequin
Blue Harlequin
Harlequin Kits
Blue Steel
Blue Gray
Lilac
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 Black Harlequin

Suggested working standard for Black Harlequin Dutch

BLACK HARLEQUIN -- The color to be banded or barred pattern of black & orange,
(definitions, a band is considered an unbroken circle of marking color, a bar is a semi-circle of
marking color, running vertically on a side). The cheeks to be equally divided, one side black,
the other orange. One ear is to be black, the other orange (one solid color from tip to base). The
black ear is to be on the orange side of the face and the orange ear is to be on the black side of
the face. The pattern over the back and belly may be banded, barred or a combination of both
without preference. Clean lines are to be stressed, with alternating black and orange color. The
ideal body pattern to consist of at least 4 or more alternations of bands and /or bars on each side,
beginning at the saddle and undercut. The hind legs and feet to continue alternation of black &
orange to the white stop markings. The tail to show alternation of orange and black. Paling of
coloration to cream permissible on underside of body and tail. Eyes- Dark Brown.

Faults-- Head and Ears incomplete demarcation, ears the same color, ears which fail to alternate
with cheek color pattern. Body excessive brindling of pattern, lacking distinct bars or bands.
Poor balance of sides due to plain unmarked side.

Disqualification-- An absence of two colors (black & orange) on each section: the head & ears,
the body, the belly, the feet and legs, and the tail.

Note: The body type of the Harlequin Dutch should be consistent with the current Standard of
Perfection for all Dutch varieties. All markings and general disqualifications apply.
Picture provided by Jill Pfaff

http://www.dutchrabbit.com/varieties/blackharlequin/blackharlequin.html

Blue Harlequin

Suggested working standard for Blue Harlequin Dutch

BLUE HARLEQUIN -- The color to be banded or barred pattern of blue & fawn, (definitions,
a band is considered an unbroken circle of marking color, a bar is a semi-circle of marking color,
running vertically on a side). The cheeks to be equally divided, one side blue, the other fawn.
One ear is to be blue, the other fawn (one solid color from tip to base). The blue ear is to be on
the fawn side of the face and the fawn ear is to be on the blue side of the face. The pattern over
the back and belly may be banded, barred or a combination of both without preference. Clean
lines are to be stressed, with alternating blue and fawn color. The ideal body pattern to consist of
at least 4 or more alternations of bands and /or bars on each side, beginning at the saddle and
undercut. The hind legs and feet to continue alternation of blue & fawn to the white stop
markings. The tail to show alternation of fawn and blue. Paling of coloration permissible on
underside of body and tail. Eyes- Blue-gray.

Faults-- Head and Ears incomplete demarcation, ears the same color, ears which fail to alternate
with cheek color pattern. Body excessive brindling of pattern, lacking distinct bars or bands.
Poor balance of sides due to plain unmarked side.

Disqualification-- An absence of two colors (blue & fawn) on each section: the head & ears, the
body, the belly, the feet and legs, and the tail.
Note: The body type of the Harlequin Dutch should be consistent with the current Standard of
Perfection for all Dutch varieties. All markings and general disqualifications apply.

Picture provided by Jill Pfaff

http://www.dutchrabbit.com/varieties/blueharlequin/blueharlequin.html

Harlequin Kits
Bambang Setiawan from Indonesia mated a black harlequin dutch and a blue harlequin dutch and
got these colors in the litter:

 1 tortoise
 1 black harlequin
 1 maybe lilac chinchila with red eyes
 2 maybe blue magpie harlequin but red eyes
http://www.dutchrabbit.com/varieties/Harlequin%20kits/harlequinkits.html

Blue Steel
Bambang Setiawan from Indonesia sent these pictures. This litter in Blue Steel is from a Black
sire mating with Tortie dam.
http://www.dutchrabbit.com/varieties/blue%20steel/bluesteel.html

Blue Gray Dutch

These pictures of a Blue Gray Dutch were sent in by Heather Vandiver.
The rabbit had come from a crossing of a blue with steel in her background to a steel buck.
One of the main differences between a blue steel and a blue gray is the lack of a defined
undercut.
http://www.dutchrabbit.com/varieties/blue%20gray/bluegray.html

Lilac
Pictures submitted by Samantha at S&S Dutch
Rabbitry
Comparison of a blue and lilac
lilac eye (lilacs pigmentation around the eye is
blue eye (whereas on a blue, it is the same as a
the
black; purple.)
same as a chocolate; pink.)

Kaitlyn Smith sent this picture in of a Lilac and a Lilac Tortoise.

http://www.dutchrabbit.com/varieties/lilac/lilac.html
 Red Dutch

Suggested Working Standard for Red Dutch

The s u rf a ce c ol o r o f t he b o d y i s t o b e a b ri gh t re d on t he he a d, t he b a c k,
a n d t he t op o f t he t a i l. Co lo r i s t o e x t e n d we l l d o wn t he ha i r sh a ft t o t he
ski n wi t h c re a m un de r co lo r. The s u rf a ce co lo r o f t he b e l ly m a y b e
or a n ge t o c re a m a l on g wi t h t he un de r si de o f t he t a i l a n d e y e ci rc le s. L a p
sp ot s (b e t we e n b e l ly a n d c ro t c h) a re t o b e a d e e p or a n ge -r e d. T he
ri c hn e ss o f t he s u r fa c e co lo r i s e n h a n ce d b y g oo d de p t h of c ol or.

E ye s : Br o wn .

F a u lt s : L i g ht o r da r k t i c ki n g, w he n s u ff i ci e n t t o p r o du ce a f r ost y o r
sm u dg y e ffe ct ; la r g e whi t e e ye c i r cl e s.

( Br e e ds o f ra b b i t s use d i n d e v e l op i n g t he Re d D ut ch w e r e T h ri a n t a s a n d
Dut c h)
Comparison of Thrianta & Red Dutch
picture courtesy of Jill Pfaff

http://www.dutchrabbit.com/varieties/red/red.html

Gold

Suggested Working Standard For The Gold Dutch

Gold—The surface color of the body is to be a bright orange on the head, the back, to and
including the top of the tail. The color will fade to a lighter orange of the sides. Color is to
extend well down the hair shaft to an off-white undercolor. The surface color of the belly
and inside of the hind legs, is to be cream with a white undercolor. Orange lap spots are
permitted. The underside of the tail and around the vent is to be white to the skin. The eye
circles are to be creamy white. Creamy white ear lacing is permissible.

Faults—Smutty color showing black or chocolate ticking or ear lacing.

These are out of Jill Pfaff's lines.... from Ramsey's Rabbit Tree

Comparison of Gold & Tortoise

Pictures provided by Jill Pfaff
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