Garment Preproduction Guidelines

Objectives
Garment preproduction aims to clarify and confirm all details of a garment prior production. Risk level
is identified in different areas with comments given for further action.
Performance standards are reconfirmed and to assure it is realistically achievable by supplier. Potential
production problems are highlighted and preventive action can be taken soonest.
Planned & actual critical dates are reviewed during the meeting. This highlights any problem that may
exist with the production schedule.
Comments & Action Follow-up are laid down as a summary of this meeting.

When & Where?

Garment preproduction risk assessment takes place during fitting stage prior Contract Seal/ grade
samples submission. It is held ideally at factory with factory merchandiser and relevant production
personnel or in HK office, whichever is feasible. It is instigated by RO tech/ factory merchandiser with
inputs from both sample room & production team.
Who should attend?
Merchandiser/Sales
Fabric Department Representative
Sample Room Manager/Co-ordinator/ QC
Technical Department
Pattern Room Representative
Production Planning
Sewing Room Manager
Sewing Line Supervisor
Finishing Section Manager
QA/QC Department

Things To Prepare Prior Meeting

Sample
Dummy/Mannequin
Shell Fabric Technical Submission
Lining Fabric Technical Submission
All fit sample and Contract seal comment
Wearer Trial comment (if any)
Componentry Labtest result
Interlining report (Required Parameters)
Colour continuity
Approved Lab dip
Care Label and Instruction confirmation
Durability Garment Wash test
Labeling and Packing instruction

What are the points to be discussed during the meeting?

Garment Construction Details
1. Ask for a relevant and latest sample. Where is the seal sample being made?
2. Check against the description of garment construction whether it is the same as the sample.
3. Record the construction method.
• Seam type: 5 thread overlock, 3 thread overlock, French seam, Lap felled seam
• Topstitching
• Compontentry use
• Style Detail: Pockets, Front opening, Collar, Placket....etc
• Interlining: Type and Placement & Fusing Conditions

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Delivery (Shipment) details
It is very important that the garment & fabric lead-times are established and compared against the
delivery schedule. This will highlight any problems that may exist with the production schedule. I.e.,
Late approval of fit sample or confirmation of the size ratio.

Confirmed Wash Care Label

1. Check for wash care symbol and Additional Care instruction are confirmed.
2. Is there any lead time problem in getting the wash care label?
3. Check whether Care Content label including the Country of Origin?

Sample submission/Approval
1. Check any potential problems and comments on fit etc. Ask for the fit record.
2. Has the stitch density be agreed?
3. Is there any discussion on Major presentation area - minimum appearance standards?

Size Spec Review

1. Get a copy of the size spec, check whether tolerance has been given and agreed
2. Are there any additional spec measurement that should be included to improve control during
production?
Fabric Test
1. Get a copy of the testing result. OR Ask when the test result be expected.
2. When will the bulk fabric be ready in house?
3. When you will start cutting the fabric?
4. Is there production shrinkage assessment? How is this done and do you think this is sufficient?
5. How they control shrinkage/extension (draping) - measurement?
6. How they control colour shading?- Batch to Batch/ Roll to Roll/ Garment to Garment. Is colour
continuity system in place?

Label Information/Trim Details

1. Is the size of the button confirmed?
2. Is the size of zipper confirmed?
3. Is the buckle, rivet and snap confirmed?
4. Check the threads no. colour and supplier.
5. Check the elastic quality? T/C, Mercerized
6. Check the labels use, position of the label and the sewing method

Embroidery/Appliqué/Beads
1. Have they test for the contrast embroidery thread? eg. colour fastness?
2. Are the Colourways of the Embroidery and Appliqué already confirmed?
3. Where are the embroidery, beading and Appliqué done?
4. Check the Method of Appliqué, Embroidery and beading

Shade Band/Washing Standard

1. Is shade Band established/required?
2. How big is the washing standard given to factory, QC and washing laundry?
3. Does the laundry wash the 1st Drum first before washing the production lot, who is going to check
the 1st Drum and how?
4. How does the factory control the wash shade?

Handfeel Standard
1. Is the handfeel standard being established?
2. How does the factory control handfeel?

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Packing Instruction
1. Carton box size/ Hanger size & type?
2. No carton support tape allowed (nylon tape).
3. Polybag quality
4. Barcode should be showing
5. Garment Folding Method

Others:
1. Check M&S Construction Manual available at: Quality Website/Document Library
2. M&S inspection standard: AQL 2.5% Major 4.0% Minor

Who should be notified after the meeting?

The meeting minutes should be copied to RO Tech, RO Merchandiser and factory.

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GARMENT PREPRODUCTION

Departme
Date 24-Jan-18 T59 Supplier Dir Dekko Designs Ltd.bd
nt
Garment Factor
Cotton 7/8 Slim Dekko Design Ltd
Description y
Country of
Garment
Stroke 5121 Manufactu Bangladesh N/A
Wash
re Fabric Quality &
A Unit of Vardhoman 70% C4-COTTON, 27% P4-POLYESTER, 3% E1-
Fabric Supplier Composition
Textile Limited ELASTANE
(Shell
FOB & Lining)
Delivery Period (state
1st Shipment FOB Last Shipment FOB Date:
Order Quantity 67,986 Pcs the 1st FOB and the last Date:11/02/18
FOB Date)
Sample Others, please
Reviewed: Concept Fit ✘ Contract Seal/ Grades specify
Planned
Photo of the Style (Front & Back) Critical Path Events Date Actual Date
Fabric Technical 5-Dec-17
Submission Approval
Contract Seal/ Grade 24-Jan-18
Samples Approval

Bulk Fabric Approval 18-Jan-18

Pilot Run Start Date 28-Jan-18

Bulk Cut 29-Jan-18

Bulk Ex-fty 3-Feb-18

1st Shipment FOB 11-Feb-18

(THE ABOVE YELLOW SHADED SECTION TO BE COMPLETED BY FACTORY PRIOR TO MEETING)

(OUTSTANDING ACTUAL DATES TO BE COMPLETED & REVIEWED IN PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING AT FACTORY LEVEL BEFORE
BULK CUT)

SUMMARY - Comments and Action Follow-up Required

Garment Supplier UK Office

Waist band shape to be maintained as per sample.

Side seam shape to be maintained as per sample.

Pre control required for all button.

Make sure waistband inside elastic measurement as per
pattern.
Make sure waist band width even.

Waist band and out seam area puckering not allow.

Pattern should be adjust as per size chart report.

should be cut panel check properly.

Button to be nickle free & supplier recommende report to be
followed.
Metal detector pass before packing.

Personnel Present

Name Job Function Name Job Function

Mr.Kuddus Production GM Mr.Monir Fabric Store

Mr.Borhan AGM (Central ) Mr.Razzak Finishing Inc

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GARMENT PREPRODUCTION
Mr.Milon Technical Manager Mr.Ferdos Store Officer

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GARMENT PREPRODUCTION
Mr.Mojammel Merchandiser Mr.Shamim Cutting Inc.

Mr.Khairul Production Manager Mr.Saidur QA Inc

Mr.Zakaria Certify Auditor (M&S) Mr. Ruhul Q Inc

Mr.Atiq QC Manager

Mr.Rejaul APM

Fabrics & Cutting Yes No If Yes, please specify the details.

Are any of the fabrics for this style prone to ✘

specific problems such as snagging, needle

damage, shrinkage variation, colour fastness on
contrast trim fabric etc?

Is there any specific cutting direction needed, e.g. ✘

pile up/ down, engineered print, one way print, list

& end shading, check matching, stripe matching?

Is colour continuity likely to have variation? If yes, ✘

how to manage it? (e.g. small batches/ post
garment finishing process, shade band)

Are there any "Promotional" or "Functional" claims ✘

made about this product eg. ETI, WR, Storm wear,
Climate control? Have all the relevant test been
established?

Componentry
(For Kidswear, please refer to supplier safety assessment
form) Yes No If Yes, please specify the details.
Are there any componentry need further follow ✘

up?
Interlining - Recommendation Report
Popper/ Stud/ Eyelet - Data Sheet/ Nickel Free
Button - Need button whipping/ Lockstitching
Diamantes - Heat Seal/ Ultra Sonic Weld
parameters
Embroidery and Embellishment
Sequins - Group/ Individual Attachment
Sewing thread: Any special sewing thread required
Zip insertion: Left insert or Right insert
Heat Seal label: Lamination parameters
Care label: 2 part set, Position, Content
Others:

External Processes/ Sub Assembly Yes No If Yes, please specify the details.
Are there any processes involved in the production ✘
of this garment not controlled by the supplier e.g.
external laundries or embroidery subcontractor ? If
yes, please state the process and name of
subcontractor.

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GARMENT PREPRODUCTION
Has discussion been held with Laundry on washing ✘
appearance, handfeel and Shade Variation
control? Is there any concern?

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GARMENT PREPRODUCTION
Are there any pre assembled components e.g. ✘
adjustable straps, sleeve tabs, key ring, belt or
corsage? Are these processors already
established router/ procedures? If yes, do they
meet M&S requirements?

Manufacturing Newness/ Difficulty Yes No If Yes, please specify the details.

Are there any design features or operations on this ✘
product that are new or innovative to the garment
supplier?

Are there any design features or operations on this ✘

product that are difficult to achieve or likely to be
problematic in production or wear?

Are there any design features or operations on this ✘

product that are going to need special or unusual
machinery or additional controls/ procedures? If so
please state.

Are there any machinery/ process requirements ✘

which may restrict production volumes e.g. hand
button sewing, fagotting, zig zag stitch?

Please go through UK comments from 1st fit to the current sample.

Are there any additional wearer trial ✘

requirements? When will be the result available?

Other comments: (Sewing Keypoints/ Difficulties. Please specify the details.)

** To get approval from M&S fabric tech for fabric // status-approved
** Ensure you will go for cut after above approved
** Fabric to be relaxed 24h
** Ensure all marker printed well there should not be missing areas , marker must be check prior cutting
** Ensure all bulk cut very accurate , all cut marks are as per pattern
** Ensure the fabric have no bowing or skewing to avoid seam twisting
** Cotton fused used Front waist band Loop to mouth end.

** Paper inter lining used front pocket/single fly/back pocket /loop.

** Tri cot fusing used waist band and bottom hem.
** Hook & bar none fused interlining used bartack to w/b mouth end.
** All seams to be free of puckering

** Waist band joint chain stitch thread used flaming thread and w/b top chain stitches needle used flexible thread, lopper used flaming thread.

** All five thread over lock width 9mm.

** Button hole thread used 21tex,27tex and 40tex.
** Front rise and back rise thread used 40tex.
** Care label attached as flow M&s guide line .
** All construction flow as approved CS sample.
** Front fly s/b flat and clean ,no wavy , no puckering and no looseness .please ensure production.
** All thread ends to be trimmed clean

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GARMENT PREPRODUCTION
** Front pocket opening s/b flat and clean , please ensure bulk production.
** Back dart between length s/b even.

** Crack stitch not allow.

** Size set measurement ok then trial cut.
** No glazing and over-pressing

** Waistband ,front pocket and front and back panel ensure these finished very well and appearance as per M&S standard , no impressions marks .

** Front and back crease flow approved CS sample.

** Trousers to be put symmetrically on the hanger
** Poly sealed 15cm below as per new instruction.
** According to hanging shipment
** Packing approval to be send separate mail to get approval
** Hanger folding flow as M&S guide line
** Garments Day to day moister percentage should be measure & record should be kept. Moister measure for follow
M&S manual/guideline.

Pressing/Packaging/ Transit Methods/

Miscellaneous Yes No If Yes, please specify the details.
Is there any special attention on Presentation? ✘
Eg. Pressing standard
Any impression mark needle mark aviod and dust to
Bow/Belt/Key ring presentation
be clean before go to poly bag
Any Promotional swing ticket

Is there anything unusual about the packaging/ ✘

labeling that may have an associated risk e.g.
Thin size needle to be used for ticket attaching.Final
GOH in box, hanger mark/glazing?
packing time please flow approved CMS.

~ End ~

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