From the publishers of magazine

WORLD OF
MODEL
BOATING
SPECIAL EDITION www.modelboats.co.uk
Mi i t
Miniature
Shipmodelling
It’s easier than
you think
PLANS AND
COVERS
FROM THE
SIXTIES

SCALE SAIL
A look at model barge racing
A VISIT TO THE
RN SUBMARINE
MUSEUM
TUGS FOR
VINTAGE EVERYONE!
Smit Nederland
REVIVAL build feature
We review the
classic Sea
Nymph
DESIGN MODELLING SERIES

YOUR OWN
Printed in the UK
£4.99

MODEL BOAT

FREE PLAN!
Simple
tramp
steamer UNORTHODOX
suitable for MODELS
beginners Use your imagination!
 INTRODUCTION

Welc m
me In this Special Issue we are taking a close look at several areas of boat modelling including Tugs,
Lifeboats, Warships and Miniatures. The first three are very popular and the last deserves to be as Robert
Wilson explains with his deceptively simple but stunningly effective techniques. We also have no less
than five build articles for differing skill levels including the tramp steamer free plan by Glynn Guest aimed
at beginners to scratchbuilding. In fact Paul Thomason’s contribution is more a case of ‘design and build’
as quite a few modellers fancy the idea of creating their own unique model and Paul has provided us
with a step by step guide.
Scale sail is also featured with Richard Chesney’s comprehensive overview of the model barge racing scene while Ashley
Needham demonstrates that the traditional ingenuity of the boat modeller is still alive and flourishing with his unusual and eye
catching models. As an end piece we have a little trip down memory lane which should appeal to many long standing readers
of the magazine.
I am particularly pleased that several articles come from regular posters to the Model Boats Website Forum; Ashley
Needham, Dave Milbourn, Paul Thomason and Robert Wilson, all of whom have much to offer their fello fellow modellers. Terry
Small and Phil Parker will also be familiar names to Model del Boats readers.
Model Boating is a very wide ranging hobby bby and a Special Issue such as this can only hope to touch on the many
possibilities and options for building ng models but I hope these pages will give an indication of the wide range o of subjects
available for all skill levels and provide inspiration for that all important next project!

Colin Bishop
Guest Editor

Free Plan! Simple tramp steamer

In the centre of this magazine is a pull-out plan for a simple tramp steamer,
suitable for beginners. Many more great Model Boat Plans are also available
to buy from MyHobbyStore. Please see the reverse of the free plan for a
comprehensive list of plans available.

■ Model Boat plan sets are currently available from MyHobbyStore and can
be viewed at www.myhobbystore.co.uk/modelboathulls
■ Prices range from £2.00 to £32.00 (priced based on the number of pages).

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PRODUCTION
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Retouching Assistant: Christopher Faulds MODELLING SERIES
ADVERTISING
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Tel: 0844 848 5240 reproduced in any form whatsoever, including photocopiers, and information retrieval systems. All
www.myhobbystore.co.uk reasonable care is taken in the preparation of the magazine contents, but the publishers cannot
be held legally responsible for errors in the contents of this magazine or for any loss however
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Head of Design & Production: Julie Miller the contents of this magazine is at reader’s own risk.

Tel: 0844 412 2262 Chief Executive: Owen Davies

From outside UK: +44 (0)1689 869896
EDITORIAL
Guest Editor: Colin Bishop
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Published by MyTimeMedia Ltd.
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Email: customer.services@myhobbystore.com

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 3

 C ntents
8 Lifeboat
att Modellin
Modelling
ng
ng 74 Model Sailing Barges
Some thingss to look
ook out for ffollowed by Phil Parker’s
P s build of an Richard Chesney with an overview of the model barge racing scene
RNLI Brede class and some pointers for getting aboard this branch of ‘Scale Sail’

16 Sea Nymph 82 Unorthodox Models

Dave Milbourn reviews the Vintage Model Boat Company’s Ashley Needham’s imaginative approach to building out of the
traditional cabin cruiser kit ordinary models using unusual materials and techniques

26 Miniatures 90 Plans and Covers of the Sixties

Robert Wilson shows us why miniature modelling is not as difficult A trip down memory lane before the days of colour except for Laurie
as people might believe and can be a very satisfying and economic
choice for many modellers
54 82
36 Design your own boat
An introduction to designing your own boat by Paul Thomason,
now you can really make your model unique

42 Tugs – something for everyone

Tugs are always a popular subject. We look at some of the types
to choose from and Terry Small builds Smit Nederland from the
MyHobbyStore hull and plan
36 16

54 SS Balboa Free Plan

Glynn Guest’s tramp cargo ship is an ideal introduction to
scratchbuilding

62 Warships
Thinking of building a warship model? Here are some of the key
68
points you need to take into consideration

68 The RN Submarine Museum

Colin Bishop visits this ‘must see’ attraction with its combination of
full size vessels, models and historic exhibits

90
42

4 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 8

42

90

74

26 74 68

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 5

 Lifeboats
Always a favourite subject
for the boat modeller
Scarborough lifeboat Mersey Class
Fanny Victoria & Frank Stubbs puts
to sea (Courtesy RNLI)
The appeal of lifeboat
models.
There can be few sights more stirring than that
of a lifeboat heading out into the storm on a
mercy mission when all sensible sailors are
either battening down the hatches or heading
for port. So it is hardly surprising that lifeboats
catch the imagination as boat modelling
subjects. It is also safe to say that the Royal
National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) is the UK
boat modeller’s charity of choice with many
fund raising events held around the country,
supported by general and specialised clubs
such as the Southern Model Lifeboat Society.
Quite apart from their powerful image,
Another view of Richard Cox Scott –
just about every detail is there.
6 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
Right: Being aboard a modern lifeboat at speed is an
exciting experience. This is Severn class Beth Still.
lifeboats have many attractions as a modelling
project. Lifeboats are relatively small craft and
this allows large scales to be used, typically
1/16 which gives a manageable length of
around the 1m mark for a modern example.
1/12 is also popular but this does put the size
and weight up considerably to approaching
1.5m for a similar boat which usually entails a
two man job to launch and recover. Building
to these scales means that if you can see it
on the full size vessel then you can reproduce
it accurately on the model which appeals to
www.modelboats.co.uk
 LIFEBOATS

Left: Preceding the

latest high speed boats
was the Tyne class.
Hermione Lady Colwyn,
stationed at Shoreham
was built by Tony Olliff
of the Southern Model
Lifeboat Society. The
Tamar class have
replaced the Tynes
as slipway launched
lifeboats.

Above: RNLB Grace Darling at Chatham is the last

Liverpool class to be built and served from 1954 to
1971. Currently preserved at Chatham.

Left: Ron Paddison’s amazing 1/8 scale Trent class

features all the interior detail as well as being a
fully functional model with many ancillary working
features.

many builders since you can have an almost

exact miniature replica of the original.
Modern lifeboats are quite fast, around 25
knots, which offers the opportunity to build a
model with impressive performance while the
large scale will ensure that it will also look very
similar to the original as the photos show.
Unlike most working craft, lifeboats are kept
in pristine condition so you can legitimately
finish the model to ‘as new’ condition; this is
one type of vessel where weathering would not
be appropriate!

Modelling practicalities
As far as the UK and Republic of Ireland are
concerned, information is relatively easy to
come by, especially for modern lifeboats. Plans
are available from the RNLI and other sources
such as the Model Boats Plans Range. And
of course it is usually possible to visit lifeboat
stations which operate the boats currently
Above: The French St in service to take a comprehensive set of
Malo all weather lifeboat
photos of specific vessels. Lifeboats from
Pourquoi Pas II is
other countries which are designed for different
twinned with her Jersey,
St. Helier counterpart. operating conditions can make an interesting
contrast to those of the RNLI although
obtaining the required information is likely to
entail a bit more work.
Some modellers prefer to depict more
traditional lifeboats which were in service prior
to the faster types used today. These were
generally constructed of wood and offer the
opportunity for plank on frame construction in
model form. There is a wonderful assembly of
preserved lifeboats from all periods at the RNLI
Historic Lifeboat Collection housed at Chatham
Dockyard www.thedockyard.co.uk which is
Left: Large model a must see for anyone interested in the history
lifeboats perform of the RNLI or thinking of modelling any of the
just like their full size types on display.
counterparts, This is the So, are there any drawbacks then? From
Severn class Richard the modelling viewpoint, modern lifeboats
Cox Scott stationed at are complex shapes, many being built from
Falmouth. Model built GRP or composites and this can be difficult
by John Owen. to reproduce by less experienced modellers,

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 7

Above:The steering console of the Atlantic 75
inshore lifeboat Enid Mary offers lots of detail
modelling opportunities.
especially as a very high standard of finish is
essential for the finished boat to look right.
Items such as bolted curved window frames
can be quite tricky to make. Fittings also
tend to be of a specialist nature. Fortunately
however, lifeboats are very well supported by
the modelling trade in terms of hulls, kits and
fittings suitable for most skill levels.
Probably the most sophisticated kits are
those marketed by Speedline Models www.
speedlinemodels.com with many parts
cut from Perspex to an amazing degree of
accuracy. These kits are not cheap but they
can be purchased in stages as the model
progresses and the end result is a definitive
replica of the original. For less experienced
builders or those looking for something on a
smaller budget, the 1/16 scale Tamar class
from The Model Slipway www.modelslipway.
com is a very popular option. For something
in between, the Metcalf Mouldings RNLB
‘The Scout’ makes for an absorbing project.
Models by Design www.modelsbydesign.co.uk
have a good range of lifeboat semi kits with
8 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
Left: Watson class lifeboats in various types served from
before WW2 until the 1970s. RNLB North Foreland, built
in 1963 is currently preserved at Chatham.
The German lifeboat
Voorman Jantzen seen
here at Warnemunde in
the Baltic in 2008.
hulls, superstructure and fittings and include
some of the older lifeboats such as the classic
Arun, Oakley, Barnett, and Clyde classes plus
an Atlantic 21 RIB. Fittings are also available
from suppliers such as Macs Mouldings who
produce those difficult to make window frames.
Something to bear in mind if you are not
building from a kit but want to use commercial
items is to ensure that the various bits you
need are available in the scale you are building
to before you begin. It may sound obvious
but projects have been known to hit problems
when something that it was assumed would
be available isn’t! And don’t forget the crew
either. The large scale used for model lifeboats
means that they benefit more than most types
of model boat from having crew members
aboard. Authentic figures are available for
modern boats from Speedline Models and
some other sources but for earlier ones you
might need to be prepared to do a bit of
adapting. Lettering and insignia can also be
a bit of a headache for scratch or semi kit
builders but BECC www.becc.co.uk and
Above: A full size Mersey lifeboat, Bingo
Lifeline was serving as a relief boat when this
photo was taken at Poole in 2009.
Above: A selection of lifeboat fittings from Macs
Mouldings.
Above: An earlier design, the Solent class was
introduced in the 1970s. This RNLB Donald Currie
seen at a Model Boat Mayhem event.
Barry’s Model Lettering www.modellettering.
com both do a good range of RNLI vinyl decals
and lettering in the correct fonts. They will also
undertake special commissions if required.
Many modellers like to incorporate engine
sounds in their boats and while this can be a bit
unscale for larger vessels where in reality you
don’t hear much if anything outside the ship,
it’s perfectly OK to reproduce the characteristic
rumble of lifeboat diesels.
In the following article, regular Model Boats
contributor Phil Parker describes his scratch
build of the RNLI’s Brede class design.
www.modelboats.co.uk

Below: The Brede prototype (Courtesy Adrian
Clutterbuck Lifeboat Enthusiasts Society)
Scratch building a Brede
The Brede Class
During the 1960s and 1970s the RNLI started
to introduce fast lifeboats into their fleet. A
need was identified for a vessel larger than the
inshore Atlantic 21 but smaller and cheaper
than the current offshore boats for locations
where the cost couldn’t be justified on
operational grounds.
The prototype Brede, a strengthened version
of a commercial angling design by Lochin
Marine of Rye, was constructed in 1981. It was
followed a year later by the first two production
vessels. These differed greatly from the original
as they featured a large wheelhouse to provide
a self-righting capability. Ten more boats
followed, production coming to an end in 1985.
Fitted with twin 203hp diesel engines giving a
top speed of 20 knots (37 km/h), they had an
operating range of 140 nautical miles (260 km)
and were operated by a crew of four.
In service, the boats proved too small to
operate in extreme weather and surveys
highlighted potential problems with structural
strength of the GRP hull. The first boat was
withdrawn after only five years service and
the entire fleet was gone by 2002. Most were
sold to other rescue services including New
Zealand. One was bought as a private cruiser
and berthed in Southampton but has since
been sold for rescue service in South Africa.
Discouraging beginnings!
My introduction to the Brede came at the
International Model Boat show near Warwick.
A small lifeboat model displayed on a stand
www.modelboats.co.uk
LIFEBOATS
Phil Parker models one of the RNLI’s The compact and
smaller all weather lifeboats. neat design of
the Brede class is
apparent from this
on the water shot.
caught my eye and after asking around, I
discovered that it had been produced from a
vac-formed kit manufactured by the owner of
the model. After checking that I wasn’t looking
for a kit that would fall together, he sold me a
set of parts for the hull and superstructure. The
check was to ensure I understood that a lot of
scratch building would be involved.
With this in mind, my first act was to contact
the RNLI to see if a plan was available. At the
time it was, and for eight pounds I became
the proud owner of a very detailed set of
plans showing slices through the boat. At
around eight feet long (Photo 1) they were a
bit unwieldy but I was lucky enough to find a
photocopy shop who handled architects plans
able to copy them so the originals could remain
in good condition while the copies became
working drawings.
Trying to assemble the kit, I began to hit
choppy waters. The Brede is a deceptively
complex boat. For a start there aren’t any 1
straight lines to act as datum points. The deck
rises in an ‘S’ shaped curve. The wheelhouse chosen was 1:20 since this was the scale of
tapers. To make matters worse, the plastic hull the plan and I felt that at 50cm long the boat
didn’t seem symmetrical along the centreline. would be a nicely handleable(!) size. The hull
All my efforts to build the thing were thwarted. was built in the traditional way from liteply,
Having seen another completed model from fibreglassed and even floated. It was only when
the same kit recently, this must be down to I came to fit a deck that I discovered I had
my lack of ability which makes it even more built another asymmetrical hull with a distinctly
frustrating. wonky back end.
By this time though, I was determined to
build a model of the boat and had amassed Success at last!
quite a few photos from readers of my blog Working on the basis of third time lucky I
so work started on a wooden hull. The scale started again. This time my plan was to stick
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 9
 LIFEBOATS

with materials I was comfortable with, which of solvent and after a few hours drying, you can wheelhouse which could be fitted later to cover
meant plastic sheet instead of wood. Plastic treat it as though nothing bad happened. any gaps (Photo 9). Windows were roughly
sheet is available in many thicknesses and for I did discover that the plan wasn’t as cut out at this stage as the holes would be
very reasonable prices. The entire boat came accurate at thought. The first slice after the tidied up by fitting frames over them.
from a large pack of the material bought from transom, section FR3 on the plan, is too The Brede is a very curvy boat with an
Models by Design at a show. Costing £25, this narrow at the deck resulting in oddly pinched in absence of sharp corners. Producing these in
turned out to be a bargain as I’ve enough left lines. Leaving it out solved this and provided a plastic isn’t too hard. For the roof to wall curve,
over for lots of other jobs. useful warning that the drawings needed to be the inside of the 2mm sheet is scored with the
As far as tools required go, the selection is taken with a pinch of salt. Olfa cutter (Photo10) so it can be bent easily.
small (Photo 2), a sharp knife, steel rule, plastic Power comes from a pair of cheap (£1.99 The outside will be a series of flat surfaces
cement and, ideally, an Olfa Plasticard Cutter each) 280 size motors driving 25mm four but these can be rounded off with a file and
(the yellow handled tool on the right). This cuts bladed brass props. Testing in the bath (Photo emery paper. Sharper bends such as the area
a groove in the plastic sheet giving a neater line 8) by connecting them up without the rest of in front of the windscreen can made by filing
than a knife. Plastic can be cut by scoring half the wiring proved that a 6V gell cell would be away the material in the corners, although it’s a
way through the sheet and snapping it along adequate for power and should ensure a long good idea to add some plastic inside the join to
the line. This makes using the compass cutter run. provide something to file into (Photo 11).
easier as you only need to heavily score your After fitting the deck from 1mm sheet, work Lifeboat windows are complex beasts and
line before snapping along it. on the superstructure began with sticking manufacturing sixteen windows that looked
Work started in exactly the same way as you 2 layers of 2mm sheet and a side elevation reasonable stumped me for a couple of days.
would for a wooden hull. The slices through drawing together with more spray glue. The With radiused corners, different layers and
the boat were cut from the plan, extended shape was cut out and adjusted to fit the a raised frame edge, I tried several methods
upward to an imaginary datum and then stuck deck line. Perfection wasn’t required as the before finding one that worked.
with spray glue to 2mm thick plastic. At the Brede has a raised line along the bottom of the Initially, (Photo 12), I made up two layers of
same time, I did the keel arranging for the 0.5mm sheet topped with 1mm for the frame,
components to interlock; multiple copies of the 2 curved the corners with a file and then tried a
plan were very helpful! (Photo 3) leather punch for the inside edges. This just
On a building board, (Photo 4) the slices buckled the plastic as seen on the top left.
were clipped with sprung clamps to strips of Two layers of 0.5mm, drilling holes and then
wood screwed in place. Stringers from sawn carefully filing out the centre worked better but
strip that came with the material pack were took ages. The results weren’t that good either.
fitted. Pulling these in at the bow was difficult Repeating the exercise but running a 2mm
as I couldn’t get a clamp on the pointy bit and wide strip of 0.5mm on its edge inside the
was too impatient to hold them while the glue hole worked a lot better as the strip neatened
went off. Sawing a horizontal slot in the front things up. Finally, examining prototype photos
of keel and stringers, then stuffing a piece of
plastic (Photo 5) in this seemed to hold them. 3
Lots of Humbrol liquid plastic glue locked
everything solid pretty quickly, although I left it
overnight for everything to harden up.
‘Planking’ was carried out with 0.5mm sheet
which is nicely flexible and can be persuaded
around tight bends (Photo 6). A single layer
felt too thin so a second was applied which
strengthened things up and covered any
bodges around the front of the model. Normal
plastic solvent is too fierce for this and will
cause depressions in the plastic so I used
Limonene, available from Wizard Models a
model railway supplier, which is a gentler, if
slower acting, version. Painted over the first 5
4
layer, it has the advantage of smelling nice
unlike all the other glues. The result should
effectively be a single 1mm thick layer as the
solvent fuses the two sheets into one. Trimming
the plastic back was carried out with a small
block plane run along the sheet, far easier and
less likely to end in disaster than working with a
normal knife.
The transom was built up (Photo7) using 7
odd-shaped bits of plastic. The rear stringer
6
gave the approximate shape and I simply filled
in the gaps and then covered the mess with
more 0.5mm sheet. Life would have been
easier if I’d allowed the stringers to stick out
behind the rear slice. One of the great things
about working with plastic is, if you cut a bit
much off, sticking it back just needs a brush full

10 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

Model
The

17 Tremorvah Barton
Dockyard
Normandie French Liner 1:400 scale
Yamato. Japanese Battleship 1:400 scale 685mm
£25.95 Vosper R.T.T.L: 1:24 68ft. Vosper Rescue
and Target Towing Launch £12.50
Whooper
Fog Horn
£35.73
£35.73
include Walnut, Maple, Tanganykia, Beech, Pear

£23.95 St Louis Belle 1:64 Mississippi stern-wheeler £12.50 Ship Klaxon £35.73
Admiralty Paints & Woodstain
Tregolls Road, Truro Grosdeutschland Superbattleship 1:400 £23.44 T.B.D Cruiser Leader: 1:144 32in. Scout class £12.50 Sub Sonar Ping £35.73 Ebony Colour Stain 14ml £3.32
200 Series RAF Seaplane Tender: 1:12 950mm £12.50 Sub Dive Alarm £35.73
Cornwall, TR1 1NN Hull and Plan Sets Brave Borderer: A 36in Vosper patrol boat £12.50 Air Horns £35.73
Light Ivory Admiralty paint 14ml
Red Ensign Admiralty paint 14ml
£2.25
£2.25
Victoria Steam Launch 1:12 scale 762mm £40.45 H.M.S Ark Royal : 1:192 WW2 aircraft carrier £12.50 Large Ship Horn £35.73 Maroon Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Mail order Only. Sorry no callers Tyne class Lifeboat 31in. 1:12 scale £12.50 Large Ship Steam Whistle £35.73
Pilot 40 . Pilot boat 698mm £50.45 Polished Bronze Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Phone line open Mon-Fri 9am- 1pm Bluebird Of Chelsea . 1:24 scale 654mm £46.95 HMS Kite: Ant Class Flatiron Gunboat 1:32 £12.50 Old Steam Whistle £35.73 Antique Bronze Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Forceful Paddle Tug Hull only. 1:48 1003mm £51.49 H.M.S Kent : 1:96 scale early cruiser 58" £17.50 Tug Boat Air Horn £35.73 Olive Green. Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Guardsman Customs launch 1:32 scale 571mm £37.45 Miranda Edwardian steam Launch 42in £12.50 Mtroniks Diesel Canal Boat £59.99 Walnut Brown. Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Tel UK: 01872 261755 Burutu & Bajima Tug 1:50scale 768mm £47.45 Valerie Anne Thames barge. 1120mm £16.85 Mtroniks Multicylinder Diesel £59.99 Matt Flesh. Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Tel Int: +44 1872 261755 Tyne Life Boat 1:12 scale 787mm £46.49 Orca (Jaws) fishing boat featured in the film. £11.23 Gold/Brass. Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Boston Fury 1:48th 1960 East Coast Trawler £16.85
Motors
Smit Nederland Hull 558mm £42.45 Copper. Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
www.model-dockyard.com Liverpool Lifeboat l 905mm 1:12 scale £91.50 TID Tug The wartime tug 890mm . £11.23 Voith-Schneider drive unit £157.08 Metal Etch primer 14ml £3.73
RMAS Moorhen Hull 1:43 scale 740mm £51.45 Princess of the Lake Cruise Launch £11.23 Schottel drive unit 70mm dia prop £95.94 Dull Black. Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
U.K Delivery Cervia, Thames Tug 1:48 scale 711mm £71.50 HMS Inflexible Dreadnought 1890s.1100mm £16.85 Schottel drive unit £79.42 Matt Black Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Order value up to £50 Add £5.00 Brave Borderer 1:32 scale 914mm £86.50 Waverley paddle steamer 1365mm, £16.85 Schottel drive unit 50mm dia prop £76.48 Dull White. Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Over £50 & up to £190 Add £9.00 HMS Warspite. Queen Elizabeth class £127.66 Tina Jane A 45ft stern trawler 560mm £11.23 Rudder-propeller drive: £74.42 Matt White. Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Orders with unclut lengths of timber £9.00 H.M.S. Devonshire. Cruiser 1504mm £96.00 Altair Auxillary gaff rigged schooner 1200mm £33.19 Schottel drive unit 40mm dia prop £62.71 Yellow Ochre. Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Orders with 1/2 cut lengths of timber £6.00 H.M.S. Liverpool. Town class1409mm £96.31 Rhum Islands Class Ferry, 500mm £9.19 Deans Marine Navy Geared Maxi 6v £44.95 Red Ochre. Admiralty paint 14ml tin £2.25
Over £190 Free Delivery H.M.S. Hood. Battlecruiser 2057mm £137.87 John Lambert Plans MICRO T 05: Electric motor £42.00 French Blue. Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
H.M.S. Repulse. Battleship 1879mm £137.06 Rudder-propeller drive Adaptor: £41.92 Walnut Colour Stain 14ml £3.32
Free delivery does not apply to shipments The Royal Navyʼs Standard 14 Ft Sailing Dinghy £14.10 6v Geared motor 3 rpm £34.83 Flat Matt Varnish Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
Deans Marine Kits Vosper 72ft 6in MTBs Nos 73-98 £14.10 Robbe Navy geared motor EF 76 - 6v £33.18 Matt Varnish Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
weighing over 2 kilos, being sent to the
Channel Islands or Northern Ireland. Delivery Compass Rose. Corvette1:96 673mm £177.65 71 ft 6 Inch British Power Boat. MTB 467 £37.86 900 Torque Motor £26.40 Satin Matt Varnish Admiralty paint 14ml £2.25
here will be charged at cost. H.M.S. Solebay.Destroyer 1945 1210mm £306.33 The Quadruple 21in QR Mark VIII Torpedo Tubes £14.10 Speed 600 BB Turbo 12v £23.33 Cherry Colour Stain 14ml £3.32
Robert E Peary Liberty Ship 1384mm £336.97 The 16 Ft Admiralty Pattern Trawler Boat £14.10 Micro geared motor 50:1 £22.18 Oak Colour Stain 14ml £3.32
MGB77. 71.6ft BPB 1:24 920mm £243.01 The Royal Navy's standard 27 Ft Whaler £37.86 Micro geared motor 150:1 £22.18 Mahogany Colour Stain 14ml £3.32
Orders are sent by 1st class post or UPS
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carrier. Large parcel deliveries to Scottish United States Navy 2Omm Oerlikon. £14.10 EL653/16 low drain motor £21.95
Books
Bronnington. minesweeper 1:100 465mm £107.18
Highland and Islands, the Isle of Man, Isles of MTB 488. B.P.C. 71.6 MTB 1:24 920mm £272.63 The Twin 2Omm Oerlikon on Post War Mark 12 £14.10 Deans Marine Kestrel 4.8 to 12volts £19.28 The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships £40.00
Scilly and Northern Ireland will be shipped by RAF Crash Tender 1:24 scale 610mm £113.31 The 3 Pdr Hotchkiss Gun £14.10 543/12 low drain motor for large props £18.85 IMerchant Ship Construction £28.00
3 day UPS carrier . Deliveries to Channel Steam Yacht Medea 1904. 1:48 870mm £139.86 Speed 480 Motor 7.2v £18.75 Thunderer. Building a Model Dreadnought £25.00
Harold Underhill Plans Deans Marine Kondor £17.31
Islands will be shipped by Euro 48 service Tradition. Seine net trawler 870mm 1:24 £360.92 RMS Titanic. A Modelmaker's Manual £25.00
H.M.S. Cossack Destroyer 1938 1200mm £272.63 Cutty Sark Clipper Ship 698mm £29.54 Deans Marine Kondor 2 £17.31 Rigging Period Ship Models £25.00
Marie Sophie of Falmouth 1033mm £44.41 543-24 low drain motor £15.93 Plank on Frame Models. Volume Two £25.00
We ship Worldwide too Plastic Kits Lady of Avenel. Wood. 850mm £33.30 Deans Kyte Motor £11.18 Plank on Frame Models. Volume One l £25.00
All prices correct at time of going to press but we Trumpeter Bismarck 1:200 scale £225.99 74-Gun Two-Decker (Circa 1813 1422mm £77.71 EL653/33 low drain motor £10.95 Ship Modeling Simplified £14.95
reserve the right to supply at the prices ruling at the Italeri MTB77 72.5ft Vosper 1:35 632mm £99.99 Lady Daphne Thames Sailing Barge812mm £29.54 Mabuchi Low Drain 545 £9.96 Rigging Period Fore & Aft Craft £22.50
time of order despatch. E&OE Heller Le Soleil Royal 1:100 scale £149.95 12-Gun Brig-of-War. Lines, 1187mm £55.51 Mabuchi 540 £7.43 Masting & Rigging of Clipper Ship
Trumpeter USS Arizona 1941 1:200 £163.99 Cunard Liner Servia, 1:192 scale 850mm £33.30 Mabuchi 480 motor 4.8 to 8.4v £7.00 and Ocean Carrier £22.00
Trumpeter HMS Dreadnought 1907 1:350 £37.99 40-Gun Frigate (Circa 1790 831mm £66.61 Mabuchi 400 £7.00 Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern £21.95
Academy Titanic 1:400 Ltd Edition £99.95 Valerian. Brixham Trawler 1069mm. £49.23 Electronize 365/14 low drain £5.56 The Ship Model Builders Assistant. £20.95
Italeri Schnellboot S-100 1:35 £175.00 Diesel Ring Net Fishing Boat 615mm £29.53 Raboesch Propshafts The Built up Ship Model. £12.95
Amati Kits Revell Titanic 1:400 £51.05 Three Brothers. Rye Fishing Smack. 797mm £29.54 Puffer Ahoy £20.00
Dutch Royal Yacht in Bottle 1:300 95mm £46.93 Revell Flower Class Corvette 1:72 £119.00 This is just a selection of over 1000 plans available Waterproof Prop Shaft M4 290mm £25.29 The Ship Model Builders Handbook £19.95
Trumpeter HMS Repulse 1941 1:350 £100.06 Waterproof Propeller Shaft M4 290mm £34.22 Card Modelling £20.95
Egyptian Ship Sahure Dynasty 350mm £77.57 Static Display Kit Plans Waterproof Propeller Shaft M5 290mm £34.32 Ship Modelling from Scratch £19.95
Greek Bireme 480 BC 560mm £77.57 Heller HMS Victory 1:100 scale £149.99
Viking Ship Oseberg 1:50 440mm £105.14 Trumpeter Queen Elizabeth 1:350 £69.99 Chinese Junk, construction plans. £11.24 Waterproof Propeller Shaft M4 450mm £39.74 Flower Class Corvettes £16.99
Mayflower 1620 1:60 scale 650mm £174.59 Trumpeter USS Alabama 1:350 £79.99 Sovereign of the Seas, plans 1:78 1100mm £27.10 Waterproof Propeller Shaft M5 450mm £39.74 Advanced Ship Modelling by Brian King: £16.95
Chinese Junk Scale 1:100 400mm £87.78 Trumpeter HMS Hood (1941) 1:350 £91.89 HMS Fly Plan set £26.50 Prop Shaft &support bracket M2 230mm £23.49 Model Marine Steam £14.95
Xebec.1753 720mm 1:60 £155.95 Academy HMS Warspite, Premium Edition £79.95 Lady Nelson Cutter Plan Set £9.80 Prop Shaft &support bracket M3 270mm £25.29 HMS Victory Owners workshop manual £21.95
New Bedford Whaleboat 1:16 550mm £122.50 Revell Gato Class Submarine 1:72 £72.36 HMS Bounty, construction plans £21.71 Prop Shaft &support bracket M4 330mm £30.71 Scale Model Tugs £14.95
Trumpeter Admiral Hipper 1941 1:350 £69.95 French Xebec construction plans £11.24 Historical Sailing Ships: Remote Controlled £14.95
Riva Aquarama. With Transmission kit £509.57 Rudder Assemblies Period Ship Handbook. Vol One. £16.95
Endeavour J Class. Wood Hull 1:80 480mm £83.69 Trumpeter Prinz Eugen 1945 1:350 £61.23 Vikingship, Osjberg, construction plans. £11.24
Endeavour J Class 1:35 scale 1130mm £259.95 Airfix HMS Illustrious 1:350 £51.05 Titanic Plans set £49.89 Rudder assembly 33 long x 22mm wide £3.90 Period Ship Kit Builders Manual £16.95
Trumpeter Graf Spee 1:350 £51.04 Endeavour J Class Plans set £25.28 Rudder assembly 60 long x 41mm wide £5.36 Model Ships Fittings £12.95
Victory Models Kits Trumpeter Jeremiah O'Brien Liberty Ship £32.99 Cutty Sark, construction plans, Scale 1:78. £31.00 Rudder assembly with tiller arm 45 x 35mm £4.54 Model Submarine Technology £12.95
Trumpeter JohnBrown liberty ship 1:350 £30.62 La Couronne, construction plans, Scale 1:98. £28.50 Rudder assembly with tiller arm 55 x 45mm £4.54 Painting Model Boats £12.95
Lady Nelson Cutter. 530mm NEW Edition £118.95
Tamiya Yamato 1:350 scale £270.95 Santa Maria, construction plans, Scale 1:50. £14.95 Steerable Kort nozzle for props up to 35 mm Ø £18.33 Ship Modelling in Plastic £12.95
HMS Fly. Swan Class 1776 1:64 800mm £290.95
Tamiya HMS King George V 1:350 £49.99 French Xebec, construction plans, Scale 1:49. £14.85 Becker Rudder 43 x 38mm £20.42 Scale Model Steamboats £12.95
Vanguard. 74 gun 1782 1:72 1171mm £685.00
Tamiya HMS Prince of Wales 1:350 £49.99 Thermopylae, construction plans, Scale 1:124. £14.85 Skeg and Rudder Assembly 68mm deep, 56mm £19.75 Making Model Boats with Styrene £12.95
HMS Pegasus Swan class 1:64 800mm £347.95
Tamiya Bismarck 1:350 717mm £61.99 Mississippi Stern Wheeler plan 1:50 1050mm £34.95 Rudder assembly with tiller arm 35 x 26mm £4.54 Simply Model Submarines £12.95
Mamoli Kits Tamiya Tirptz 1:350 717mm £58.50 Pinta. construction plans 1:50 570mm £14.85 Boat rudder set: 45 mm Height: 40 £6.69 The Model Tug Boat Book: £12.95
Academy Tirpitz 1:350 £28.00 Friesland (1:75) Drawings & Instructions £47.73 Boat rudder set: 32 mm Height: 25 mm £6.47 Scale Model Warships £12.95
Friesland 80 gun 2 Decker 1:75 775mm £492.14 Submarines. Models and their Originals £12.95
Academy Graf Spee 1:350 £28.00 H.M.S. Victory (1:90) Drawings & Instructions £64.09 Boat rudder set: 36 mm Height: 50 mm £6.19
Mary Royal Yacht 1:54 scale 483mm £179.18 Making Ships in Bottles £11.95
Airfix Cutty Sark 1:130 £27.99 Yacht Mary (1:54) Drawings & Instructions £32.73 Boat rudder set: 36 mm Height: 70 mm £7.42
Golden Hind 1:53 scale 496mm £184.58 Scale Model Boats. Building & Operation £9.95
Airfix HMS Bounty 1:87 £26.54 Golden Hind (1:53) Drawings & Instructions £32.73 Rudder assembly 45 long x 30mm wide £4.80
La Gloire 34 gun Frigate 1:90 840mm £287.18 Radio Control In Model Boats £9.95
Airfix HMS Victory 1:180 £26.54 Rattlesnake (1:64) Drawings & Instructions £46.36 Rudder assembly 53 long x 36mm wide £4.92
Hunter 12 gun Cutter 1797 1:72 440mm £134.76 Introduction to Marine Modelling £9.95
Airfix Wasa 1:144 £26.54 Royal Louis (1:90) Drawings & Instructions £62.73 Rudder assembly 67 long x 44mm wide £5.36
Rattlesnake Privateer 1779 1:64 697mm £222.62 Ship Modelling Solutions £9.95
Double Tiller Arm. Fits 3/16 or 5mm shaft £0.97
H.M.A.V Bounty 1787 1:64 610mm £215.76 Plastic Kit Upgrades Scratch Building Marine Models £9.95
CSS Alabama. 1:120 694mm £206.92 R/C Equipment Bow Thrusters The Glassfibre Handbook by R.H Waring. £9.95
Lionroar HMS Repulse Super detail 1:350 £98.57
Panart Kits Lionroar Arizona Super detail set 1:350 £74.18 Hitec Optic 6 (2.4 GHz) combo £124.99 Bow thruster unit with motor 14mm I/D £33.87 Photoetching For The Plastic Ship Modeler £12.95
1:350-1:400 Naval Ship Decals £7.19 Viper Marine 75 £115.00 Bow thruster unit with motor 16mm I/D £33.87 Super-detailing the Cutter Sherbourne £19.00
H.M.S. Victory Nelson Flagship 1:78 1300mm £395.10
Between Decks Gun Section 1:23 250mm sq. £99.00
1:350 Bismarck and Tirpitz detail sheets £45.95 Hitec Optic 5 channel (2.4 GHz) combo £89.95 Bow thruster unit with motor 19mm I/D £33.87 Modelling Tools
1:350 KG5 & Prince of Wales detail sheets £49.95 Mtroniks G2 Hydra15 combo £59.99 Bow thruster unit with motor 22mm I/D £38.39
Open Whaler 1850 1:16 scale 615mm £139.50 Mantua 12v Electric Fret saw 12v £110.00
1:350 Naval Figures sheet of 100 £4.95 Hi Tech Zebra 4 Channel £56.12 Bow thruster unit with motor 25mm I/D £38.39
HMS Victory bow section1:78 scale £179.95 Mini Compressor £105.00
1:350 Various ladders. £6.20 Viper Marine 40 £53.22 Mini Bow thruster unit with motor 10mm I/D £27.10
San Felipe Spanish 3 Decker 1:75 960mm £670.00 Mantua Spar Lathe. 12V £99.00
1:350 Quad Bofors and Oerlikon details £8.75 Planet 5 Transmitter and Receiver Set £51.99 Bow thruster unit with motor 30mm I/D £81.29
Armed Naval Pinnace 1800 Scale 1:16 620mm £139.50 Mantua 12v Electric Planer £79.00
1:350 Doors, Hatches, & Life rings £6.20 Hi Tech Ranger 2 Channel £49.95
Royal Caroline 1749 Royal Yacht 1:47 830mm £269.95
1:350: 5,000 scale feet of U.S. Navy railing £20.55 FR30HX 30amp speed controller £47.14
BECC Letters&Number sets Amati heavy duty Building cradle £49.95
Caldercraft Display Kits 1:350: Arizona Details sheets £43.97 Viper Marine SUB 10 6-12v £42.99 2A Arial Lettering 2 mm, £4.07 Building Slip £54.95
1:350 WWII Liberty Ship Etched detail £43.99 Viper Marine SUB 8 4.8-9.6v £42.50 3A Arial Lettering 3 mm, £4.59 Mantua 4 speed mains transformer £48.40
Diana 38 Gun Heavy Frigate 1:64 1180mm £472.45 1:350 Hood detail sheets £49.99 Viper SSR 25amp Speed controller £39.99 Deluxe Modellers Tool Chest £38.95
4A Arial Lettering 4 mm, £4.59
Cruiser.1797. 18 Gun Brig 1:67 scale 850mm £206.98 1:350 Hood extra detail sheet £25.83 15HVR 15amp speed controller £37.69 Amati Electric Plank Bender £36.71
6A Arial Lettering 6 mm, £4.59
Snake 1797 18 Gun Sloop 1:67 scale 910mm £206.98 1:350: Alabama Details sheets £49.99 Viper Marine 25 £34.99 Rope Walk kit £35.69
8A Arial Lettering 8 mm, £5.10
Agamemnon 1781. 64 gun ship 1:64 1300mm £661.45 1:350: USS San Francisco Details sheets £49.99 Viper Marine 25 Mirror £34.20 Strip Clamp. £32.95
10A Arial Lettering 10 mm, £5.10
Endeavour. Bark 1768. 1:64 scale 725mm £245.65 1:350 Repulse detail sheets £49.99 FR12VR 12amp speed controller BEC £33.86 Dremel MultiVise £32.73
12A Arial Lettering 12 mm, £6.12
HMAV Bounty. 1789. 1:64 scale 660mm £202.45 Wooden deck for HMS Hood 1:350 scale £36.50 Hi Tech Mega Arm Sail Winch 19.8kg/cm £30.99 Master Cut. £26.50
15A Arial Lettering 15 mm, £7.14
Sherbourne. 8 Gun Cutter 1763. 1:64 500mm £75.55 Wooden deck for Graf Spee1:350 scale £32.30 Proportional Drum Sail Winch £30.63 Bench Vice. £24.46
20A Arial Lettering 20 mm, £8.16
Victory 1781. Nelson's flagship 1:72 1385mm £746.98 Wooden deck for HMS Repulse 1:350 scale £34.80 Viper Marine 20 £28.99 Swann-Morton ACM Tool Set £22.61
25A Arial Lettering 25 mm, £10.20
HM Brig Badger 1778 1:64 scale 600mm £177.12 Wooden deck for Prinz Eugen 1:350 scale £34.80 Viper Marine 15 £22.99 Planet, special work bench £15.50
5A Arial Lettering 5 mm, £4.59
HM Schooner Pickle 1778 1:64 scale 565mm £130.46 Wooden deck for Tirpitz 1:350 scale £34.80 Viper Micro Marine 10 £22.99 20 piece twist drill set .3 to 1.6mm £13.23
Available in most colours
Caldercraft R/C Kits Wooden deck for Admiral Hipper 1:350 scale £34.80 Viper Marine 15 Plug Play £22.99 Amati Pin Pusher De-Luxe £13.23
DX Wooden deck & Railing for Bismarck 1:350 £37.99 Programmable mixing module £20.34 BECC Flags Pin Pusher £12.99
Joffre. 1916 Tyne Tug. £278.96 Wooden deck for Bismarck 1:350 scale £31.50 Waterproof mixing module (w-tail) £17.80 Waterline marking tool £12.97
GB02 White Ensign, Size: AAA 10mm £3.05
Imara. Twin Screw Berthing Tug £512.95 Wooden deck for Tirpitz 1:350 scale £31.50 Waterproof mixing module £15.70 A3 cutting mat £11.18
GB02 White Ensign, Size: AA 15mm £3.05
Milford star. Post war East Coast side trawler £256.45 Wooden deck for KG5 1:350 scale £33.20 Mtroniks EP Multi charger £12.14 Pounce Tool with 4 wheels £10.95
GB02 White Ensign, Size: A 20mm £3.05
Marie Felling single screw steam tug £435.56 Wooden deck for Price of Wales 1:350 scale £33.20 1300ma receiver nicad battery square £5.61 Assorted grade Sanding Sticks (5) £10.94
GB02 White Ensign, Size: B 25mm £3.05
North Light. Steam Clyde Puffer £278.96 DX Wooden deck & Railing for Warspite 1:350 £53.80 1300ma receiver nicad battery flat £5.61 Shroud Making Jig £10.72
GB02 White Ensign, Size: C 38mm £3.96
Resolve. Twin Screw Admiralty Tug £562.46 DX Wooden deck & Railing for Bismarck 1:200 £149.40 Switch harness with charging lead £4.70 Zona Fine Kerf Universal Razor Saw 32tpi £9.39
GB02 White Ensign, Size: D 50mm £3.96
Amaranth. Motor Fifie £130.46 This is just a selection from Gold Medal, MK1 Design, Full range of R/C installation equipment available Zona Medium Kerf Razor Saw 24tpi £9.39
GB02 White Ensign, Size: E 75mm £4.95
SS Talacre. Single hatch Steam Coaster £278.96 Master and Eduard. Zona Fine Kerf Universal Razor Saw 42tpi £9.39
Sir Kay Round Table Class Minesweeper £328.48 Miniature Steam GB02 White Ensign, Size: F 100mm £5.97
Zona Fine Kerf Universal Razor Saw 24tpi £9.39
Quaycraft Boats GB02 White Ensign, Size: G 125mm £7.91
Zona Ultra Thin Kerf Razor Saw 52tpi £8.34
Card Models Clyde Horiz Ready Assembled Steam Plant £999.00 GB02 White Ensign, Size: H 150mm £9.91
Zona Ultra Thin Kerf Razor Saw 32tpi £8.34
1:48 Scale 27ft Royal Navy Clinker Whaler £19.91 Clyde Vertical Ready Assembled Steam Plant £999.00 Also available, naval ensigns in red, Blue as well and
SD14 general cargo ship 1:70 2133mm. £295.00 1:48 Scale 16ft Royal Navy 16 Clinker dinghy £8.87 Clyde Horizontal Self Assembly Steam Plant £899.00 8 piece twist drill set .5 to 2.0mm £7.38
national flags from most maritime nations
USS Missouri. 1:200 scale £61.24 1:32 Scale 16ft Clinker Ship s Lifeboat £16.32 Clyde Vertical Self Assembly Steam Plant £899.00 Rigging Tool £6.79
GPM SMS Seydlitz 1:200 scale 1010mm £56.95 1:96 Scale 25ft Motor cutter £7.68 4 inch Horizontal Boiler £649.99 Timber Archimedean Hand Drill £6.74
Queen Mary 2, 863mm 1:400 scale £53.06 1:96 Scale 27ft Whaler 85mm £7.31 3in Horizontal Boiler £575.99 Pin Vice with collets for .01 to 3.0mm drill bits £6.64
Lime Strip 1 x 1mm x approx 1 metre long £0.32 K&S Tube cutter £6.50
Prince of Wales Battleship 1:200 scale £51.95 1:96 26ft Lifeboat double ended 83mm £10.31 3in Vertical Boiler £575.99 Lime Strip 1 x 1.5mm x approx 1 metre long £0.32 Set of 3 G-Clamps with Magnetic Base £5.77
USS Lexington Aircraft carrier 1:200 scale £51.04 1:72 Motor cutter 2 cabins 109mm £19.08 Clyde Fully Assembled £444.00 Lime Strip 1 x 10mm x approx 1 metre long £0.47 Wooden Clamping Pegs (3) £5.75
Tirpitz 1:200 scale Full hull 1260mm £49.99 1:48 scale. 22ft Lifeboat. double ended £12.71 Clyde Fully Machined Kit for Self Assembly £312.00
Bismarck 1:200 scale Full hull 1250mm £48.98 Lime Strip 1 x 2mm x approx 1 metre long £0.32 Miniature hand plane £5.06
1:32 Scale 14ft Clinker Dinghy £14.15 Tyne Vertical Self Assembly Engine £199.50 Lime Strip 1 x 3mm x approx 1 metre long £0.33
Revenge 1588 600mm 1:96 scale £47.95 1:24 Scale 14ft Clinker Dinghy £16.55 Boiler Feed Pump 3/8"" Assembled" £119.95 Lime Strip 1 x 4mm x approx 1 metre long £0.34
HMS Mercury 6th rate frigate 1779 1:96 scaler £44.95 1:48 Scale 18ft Clinker Lifeboat £11.27 Refillable Gas Tank £94.99 THE MODEL DOCKYARD CATALOGUE
Admiral Hipper, cruiser 1935 1:200 scale £40.81 Lime Strip 1 x 5mm x approx 1 metre long £0.39
1:72 Scale 16ft Clinker dinghy, £7.79 "ertical Refillable Gas Tank (1-1/2"" Dia) £84.99 Lime Strip 1 x 6mm x approx 1 metre long £0.43
HMS Enterprise 28 gun Frigate 1:96 scale £40.80 1:48 Scale 24ft Clinker Ship s Lifeboat £16.32 Ceramic Burner: for 3in boiler £74.99 Our non illustrated catalogue contains a brief description and
Lime Strip 1 x 7mm x approx 1 metre long £0.44
Graf Spee. Full hulled model at 1:200 scale £30.60 1:72 27ft Clinker whaler 115mm £17.03 Vertical Refillable Gas Tank (1-1/4"" Dia) £64.99 principal dimensions of over 12,000 product items that are
Lexington. American Brig 1:96 scale £30.59 Lime Strip 1 x 8mm x approx 1 metre long £0.46
1:96 Scale 20ft Motor boat £6.47 Exhaust Oil Trap (1-1/4”) £49.98 available from our extensive range aimed and the the scale
Lime Strip 2 x 10mm x approx 1 metre long £0.76
HMS Endeavour. Captains Cook's Bark 1:96 £30.59 1:48 Scale 20ft Motor cutter 130mm £18.95 Horizontal Boiler Mounting Tray £39.95 modeller. these include both static and R/C Kits, Plastic kits
Lime Strip 2 x 2mm x approx 1 metre long £0.40
Santa Maria & Nina £30.59 1:48 Scale 25ft Motor cutter 162mm £30.72 Refillable Gas Tank Adaptor (Long) £24.99 and upgrade parets; the largest range of boats fittings to be
H.M.S. Invincible. Battlecruiser 1907 1:250 £28.54 Lime Strip 2 x 3mm x approx 1 metre long £0.43
1:48 Scale 20ft transom sterned clinker lifeboat £12.23 Refillable Gas Tank Adaptor (Standard) £21.99 found anywhere, building materials, boat plans, boat hulls,
Lime Strip 2 x 4mm x approx 1 metre long £0.47
HMS Sheffield 1:200 full hull £28.54 This is just a selection of over 100 boats in various scales props, couplings, motors, propshafts etc etc. Whether you
HMS Abdiel Light Cruiser 1;200 scale 635mm £28.54 Sound Modules Lime Strip 2 x 5mm x approx 1 metre long £0.50
interest lies in working radio control, display period ships or
HMS Repulse. Battleship 1:300 scale 806mm £27.53 R/C Boat Plans Lime Strip 2 x 6mm x approx 1 metre long £0.57
static kits, our catalogue has everything you will need,
Petrol/Diesel Engine with Horn £43.40 Lime Strip 2 x 7mm x approx 1 metre long £0.63
Iowa 1:400 US Battleship 1942 680mm £26.52 H.M.S Cossack Tribal class destroyer 38" £12.50 Machine Gun £35.73 Lime Strip 2 x 8mm x approx 1 metre long £0.69
HMS Dreadnought 1:200 £26.50 Lorraine: A really elegant 54in. motor yacht £17.50 Steam Engine Sound £43.40 £1.00 plus £5.00 for UK Delivery
This is just a selection of sizes. Other woods stocks
HMS Cambeltown 1;200 scale 470mm £25.95
 LIFEBOATS
persuaded me that a single layer with the strip
inside would work. The inside corners could be
cut by spinning a pair of sharp-pointed dividers
to score each one and then finishing this off
with a sharp knife blade. The strip went in next,
fixed with liquid glue and then I curved the
corners with a file. The result is at the bottom.
It’s far from perfect and in an ideal world I’d
commission someone to laser cut me some
but that would take time I didn’t have and
probably cost more than the rest of the boat.
With care, the results look OK on the water.
Working with plastic does require some
precautions. Try to avoid sealed box sections
as any solvent inside will eventually eat its way
out. While building the rope locker (Photo 13),
I drilled holes in the bottom so the glue would
evaporate out of harm’s way.
The superstructure had its window frames
fitted (Photo 14) taking care to get them in line
as the livery will show up any errors once the
model is painted. The front hatch is a couple of
layers of 2mm sheet with some wire handles
and strip plastic hinges. It’s worth laying in a
stock of pre-cut plastic strips in a variety of
8 boat.
9 shiny car from a distance and you’ll see what
10
12 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
sizes (Slaters sell a pack of random sizes) for
this sort of detail work.
Not all the parts are made from plastic. A
selection of K&S brass tubing and rod was
soldered together to make the mast (Photo
15). The disks are supports for navigation lights
and cut from nickel silver sheet using a pair of
compasses to mark them before cutting with
sharp scissors. Sadly, they stick into the central
pole which precludes running some wires
down there to illuminate the lights. The mast is
braced at the back with an ‘A’ shaped support.
This is shown on the plan as being at the front
and looking at photos, it seems some early
Bredes were fitted this way but most of the
later ones were as my model.
Rear handrails were made from 2mm brass
wire (Photo 16) bought in 3 foot long lengths
from Tony Green Steam Models, although K&S
12 inch lengths would be fine and more likely
to be available from the local model shop. A
scrap piece of plywood had the positions of the
uprights marked by placing it under the plan
and poking a pin through at the appropriate
points. Holes were drilled and the soldering
11
carried out on this jig. A second piece of ply
with a groove filed in it was used to set the
height of the lower rail. This part was cleaned
up in the sink to remove left-over flux and spray
painted away from the boat.
The front handrails were made up in the
same way but there is an added complication;
they are attached to both the wheelhouse
and deck. Since I wanted to be able to
remove the former for access to the battery
and mechanicals, they would have to split. A
small sleeve was bored from thin copper tube
(Photo 17) and this fits over the joins, soldered
to the deck handrails. It’s not very visible and
probably the least worst way of doing the job.
It’s a pity the designer of the prototype didn’t
think of us modellers when drawing these up!
Final testing showed that my work on the
hull, especially along the keel line, wasn’t
perfectly watertight but running gap-filling
superglue (Zap-a-Gap Green) into all the joins
sorted the few dribbles out. One advantage of
plastic is that you don’t need to do anything
to make it waterproof. There’s no filling and
sanding to produce a grain-free surface either,
handy when you are modelling a smooth GRP
Painting commenced with a spray of car-
primer, grey for the hull and white for the orange
bits. This isn’t essential but it will show up any
imperfections in the surface so these can be
attended to before the top coat goes on.
Colours used were all from Halfords auto
spray cans – Matt Black, Red Enamel, Ford
Royal Blue and Volkswagen Signal Orange.
Lines are from Trimline self adhesive vinyl tape.
Everything was finished with a coat of Humbrol
satin varnish as I don’t like models to be too
glossy. Even on lifeboats, which are always
pristine in real life, it looks toylike. Look at a
I mean.
Performance and final
thoughts
On the water, despite the tiny props and
modest battery, the boat nips along at a bit
more than a scale speed. I’ve not tested
duration yet because the Editor is awaiting
this article, but I expect to get nearly an hour.
Manoeuvrability is excellent with normal servo
steering, however I have an ACTion Electronics
mixer set-up awaiting fitment so the prop
speeds will change to provide even tighter
turns.
Brede aficionados will spot that there’s still a
12
www.modelboats.co.uk
 LIFEBOATS
lot of detail to be added to the model. Lights,
casualty hoists, a name, air vents, rear hatch
and towing bollard; all are on the list but for the
moment I’ll be enjoying sailing and add them
as I get around to it. For real experts, there’s an
obvious deliberate error for you to spot too.
Scratch building a model takes a lot longer
than you would, or at least I did, think. It can be
quite a money-saver though. At the moment,
the only detail bought off the shelf is the radar
dome. I’m pretty certain that even without
special tools I can manufacture everything else
myself given time. The model, as you see it in
the photos, will have cost under £100 to build
including the mechanical and electronic bits. In
this age of austerity maybe this is a good thing.
Doing it this way has given me a boat I’m
particularly proud of. Maybe it won’t win a gold
13
16
14 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
medal in any competition but I don’t care. By
taking time and throwing away bits I’m not
happy with, my little Brede means a lot to Suppliers
me and at the end of the day, the satisfaction Plastic sheet and strip
gained is what this hobby is all about. Models By Design:
Having said this, my advice to would be www.modelsbydesign.co.uk
scratch builders is start with something simple. Slaters Plasticard:
A nice plain work boat perhaps. Something www.slatersplastikard.com
with straight lines. Get to know your prototype
too. The more I study photos of real Bredes, Limonene plastic glue
the more I have come to appreciate the Wizard Models: www.wizardmodels.co.uk
subtleties of the design. I also know where my All other glues by Humbrol:
model isn’t perfect and can see bits I could www.humbrol.co.uk
have done better, but then that’s always the
case. The solution is simple, don’t sail so near Propellers and shafts
the shore that anyone else who might spot Prop Shop: www.prop-shop.co.uk
mistakes will fall in while leaning over to criticise!
14 15
17
www.modelboats.co.uk

Vintage revival
Dave Milbourn reviews the classic Sea Nymph kit from The Vintage
Model Boat Company and adds a few reflections of his own.
A bit of background
I can’t seem to keep away from cabin cruisers.
It started a very long time ago…..
It’s December 1971 and a callow youth of
barely 20 is plodding his way through the
classified ads in Radio Modeller magazine
when he spies an advert requiring a model
kit designer – full-time! Fast forward about
three weeks and that same youth has just
attended a Civil Service interview in London
during the morning and more or less told
them where to stick their job. At least the Civil
Service Commission has paid his return train
fare; shame to waste it. He has an interview
for a Model Designer’s Job Somewhere Down
South in the afternoon, you see, and such is his
supreme confidence that he feels he can afford
to dismiss a career in HM Customs and Excise
(it’s hugely ironic to think of that now).
‘And finally’ announces John Rudd - partner
in, and the salesman of Model Avionics -
three hours later, ‘they don’t even use proper
water-and-boil-proof plywood!’ With that he
drops a piece of what I have to assume is a
Sea Queen kit theatrically into a jug of water.
After seemingly no time at all the plywood
16 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
delaminates and the three separate parts float
sadly to the surface. I know this is not good
for the manufacturers of Sea Queen, John
Rudd has told me so. I have just agreed to
take on the job of designing the ‘natural market
replacement’ for the Sea Queen kit and have
fallen totally in love with both Model Avionics
and the Fairey Huntsman 31 power-cruiser.
Back in 1972 there were really only two
types of working model boat kits; balsawood
and plywood. I think that Graupner and maybe
Billings had begun to experiment with moulded
plastic hulls but their kits were hugely expensive
and didn’t make much of an impression on
a largely impoverished British model boats
scene. Perhaps Dumas and Sterling were
also making functional wooden boat kits in the
USA but such exotica was yet to reach the
East Midlands and impact upon this particular
spotty herbert.
Most kids of my age were aware of Keil
Kraft model aircraft kits but they also produced
a range called EeZeBILT balsa model boats.
The range consisted of seven models and
included several cabin cruisers, a tug, a patrol
boat, an open speedboat etc.; all about 14
Above: Despite being
around half a century old,
the Sea Nymph design
has stood the test of
time well.
inches to 17inches long and powered by
small electric motors and Ever Ready’s 4.5v
‘flat’ torch battery. Unlike KK’s Flying Scale
models, which were just sheets of balsa with
the parts shapes printed onto them (to be cut
out with the legendary and often dangerous
single-sided razor blade) these kits were made
exclusively from balsawood which had been
colour-printed and then die-stamped to obtain
the parts shapes. Die-stamping had been used
by box-makers for years and involved making
a die tool which consisted of vertically placed
blades set into thick ply bases, sharp sides
uppermost. The blades were bent lengthwise
into the shape of the parts required and the
die tool was put into a letterpress machine
to stamp these shapes out of cardboard
sheets. Think of a pastry cutter used to
make biscuit shapes and you’ve got the
idea. I think the technique for die cutting
balsa had been mastered by Solarbo who
were the main (only?) balsa importers into
the UK at the time. BTW does anyone else
recall John V Paterson, Solarbo’s front man,
who featured in their strip-cartoon magazine
adverts? Cheesy or what?
www.modelboats.co.uk

1 3
Photo 1The kit contents showing the laser cut parts ready for separating.
Photo 2The basic keel assembly.
There were many limitations to this die-
cutting process. The physical sizes of the balsa
sheet and the press used limited the size of
parts you could produce. The balsa realistically
could be no thicker than about 3mm and had
to be of a certain grade. Any softer and the
parts would be crushed instead of cut; any
harder and the parts would fail to pop out of
the tooling and the die-blades became loose in
their plywood bases and had to be either re-set
or replaced. Needless to say a fair few die-cut
kits came out with parts which were practically
unusable. Quality control was never a big issue
back then.
Plywood didn’t have such drawbacks, it
was so hard that you couldn’t stamp it out
with even the sharpest die! Marine plywood is
WBP grade (Water and Boil Proof) and is made
with three or more laminations of wood glued
together with a hard-setting resin and held
under very high pressure while the resin sets.
This makes it very hard indeed. The only way
of shaping it back in the day was by sawing
it. Scratch builders would use a hand fretsaw
or coping saw while kit manufacturers would
use powered bandsaws and jigsaws. As such,
plywood model kits were very suitable for
small batch-production businesses, typified by
Aerokits and Modav.
Aerokits produced a range of around a
dozen model boats, all designed by Les
Rowell, which included cabin cruisers from 16
inches to 46 inches long as well as a couple
www.modelboats.co.uk
Photo 3 The bow and breast hook.
Photo 4 The basic structure 4
before adding the hull stringers.
of RAF Fire Tenders, a torpedo boat, a patrol
launch, a massive Solent class lifeboat - and
a Fairey Swordsman. The kits were all made
from sawn plywood parts with strip balsa and
hardwood for stringers, kick-rails etc. In the
fashion of the day no hardware or fittings were
included.
It was into this world that I had been
inducted, and it’s ironic that now the Huntsman
has become the classic vintage kit to be
replaced by the revamped Sea Queen. Ply
model kits are now die-cut routinely from
a new material; liteply; which resembles a
hard grade of balsa and is therefore much
more suitable for the process. If that wasn’t
enough we also have computer numerically
controlled (CNC) machining processes such
as high-speed routers and laser cutters.
These can be programmed to produce parts
which are identical in size and shape to the
original drawings because they use the same
computer files as the drawings to drive the
cutting heads. Marine ply is no longer solely the
province of power-saws and wavy lines!
I’ve remained in and around the model trade
since 1972, for the most part in my spare time,
designing model aircraft kits for Precedent
and latterly lending Model Slipway a hand with
their range of GRP and styrene scale model
kits; two materials unheard of when we did the
Huntsman. I have also had plans for a couple
more cabin cruisers published, one of which
was the Fairey Swordsman, sister craft to my
SEA NYMPH
beloved Huntsman. My most recent full time
foray into the model trade was as joint-owner
of ACTion R/C Electronics, which my wife Liz
and I took over in 2007 from Craig Talbot and
which we have now passed on to Component
Shop.
So that’s it. Retired. Done. Finito. Lock up
the workshop? Not quite yet, it seems.
The project commences
I don’t feel particularly old but when I had an
EMail from Colin Bishop which included the
following I confess to a slight sadness, as well
as the leap in my heart at still being somehow
relevant:
‘People do seem to be fascinated with
what might be termed the vintage era and
you would seem to be uniquely placed to
comment authoritatively on this’.
‘Uniquely placed’? Do you mean ‘last man
standing’? Gee thanks, Colin!
We agreed that it would have been
stretching credibility for me to base an article on
vintage kits around one which I had designed
41 years ago, not that the latest Huntsman is
remotely the same kit as the original, and the
new version of the Sea Queen has already
been reviewed, so we decided that I should
have a bash at the latest incarnation of another
Les Rowell-designed model; the little Sea
Nymph, manufactured in darkest Lincolnshire
by the Vintage Model Boat Company.
Almost back full circle, eh?
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 17
And on with the
construction!
First, two very important things which you
need to appreciate about the Sea Nymph kit:
1. Despite its diminutive size (aka ‘kinda
cute’) this is not a raw beginner’s model.
The Vintage Model Boat Company have set
out to reproduce the original kit and they have
certainly succeeded, but we’re talking about
a kit which first appeared in the 1950s and
things were a lot different then. This doesn’t
mean that if you’ve never made a model boat
before you haven’t a chance of building this
one, but it does help a great deal if you know
the appropriate techniques and are familiar with
working with plywood.
Wooden model boat kits were a very cost-
effective means to an end; that end being
a small, noisy thing belting across the local
pond. The kit parts were often cut by hand on
a band-saw and the exact shapes therefore
varied with the ability of the guy doing the
cutting and the condition of the templates, the
timber and the saw blade. Even if the designer
and the machinist both got everything tickety-
5 7
Photo 5 Hull structure with stringers fitted.
Photo 6 The bow area takes shape.
18 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
boo there was always a slight variation later
in the wood’s shape and size due to storage
conditions, so the chance of every single part
fitting perfectly, straight out of the box, was
negligible. As my friend Phil Abbott says, you
invariably had to ‘fettle’ things in order to get
them to fit together. See, for example the photo
of the cabin roof base which shows how I
added a strip of wood to each side to get the
taper right for my particular model.
Vintage Model Boat Co have done a superb
job of laser-cutting the parts from ply, to the
extent that all of the major parts making up the
hull and superstructure frames do fit accurately
together (Figs 2 and 3 on the plan). Thereafter
things can get a bit tricky! Personal preferences
also come into play; more of this later.
2. There are no instructions or drawings
anywhere to show you how to install an electric
motor, battery pack and radio control gear.
Sea Nymph was designed in an era where
radio gear was much larger, heavier and less
sophisticated than modern stuff. Recalling
the size even of the first Futaba digital servos,
DEAC battery pack and receiver (circa
Photo 7 Fitting the bottom skins.
Photo 8 The bottom 8
skins in place.
1967) makes me doubt that you would get
them into such a small model. You certainly
would be hard pressed to do so alongside a
contemporary electric motor and rechargeable
‘accumulator’ (high capacity NiCads were
unheard of). As a consequence most small
models were free-running and powered by
small diesel engines.
Fortunately things are much more lightweight
and miniaturised these days. After pondering
for days the matter of fitting radio gear I finally
dismissed all of the ‘clever-clever’ ideas I’d had
(e.g. hiding the rudder servo inside a dummy
rear bench seat) and concluded that only
two minor modifications were needed. The
wooden former B4 ahead of the transom was
moved forward approx 30mm to allow me to
fit a small servo in the cockpit floor, just ahead
of the rudder tiller arm and underneath the
now-extended aft deck hatch; and the cockpit
floor itself was raised 1/4 inch (6mm) to allow
a standard 6 x AA NiMH battery pack to be
installed underneath it, just ahead of former B3.
Unfortunately I had assumed that the motor
mounting plate as supplied would suit a metal
bracket to take either a 385 or 400 sized motor
www.modelboats.co.uk

– oops!! More later…
The kit comes packed in a long polythene
bag and comprises of two sheets of 1/8 inch
(3mm) and one of 1/16inch (1.5mm) laser-cut
plywood. The quality of this cutting has to be
seen to be fully appreciated; it’s quite amazing!
The edges are square and clean and the only
clue to how it was done is the dark brown
colour of the burned cut edges. Even the
planking has been simulated in the deck parts
by part-cutting through the ply. All in all this
is a huge improvement over the old saw-cut
parts. There are four ply hull skins cut slightly
oversize, some obechi strips and a sheet of
clear glazing material. The single sheet plan
I think is probably a straight copy of the one
from the original kit, and there’s an A4 three-
sheet instruction leaflet with a few construction
notes. These notes are not very comprehensive
but are adequate if you’re at all familiar with
plywood construction and can read plans. No
hardware is included in the standard kit. The
modeller must purchase motor, shaft and tube,
prop, coupling and rudder assembly separately.
For constructing the wooden parts I used
either De-Luxe Materials’ aliphatic resin glue
9 11
Photo 9 The side skins being taped and clamped while the glue sets.
10
Photo 10 Bow area with the skins fitted, note the step.
www.modelboats.co.uk
or the Super-Phatic version of it, depending
on the job in hand. I also used some thick
cyanoacrylate when fitting the skins, stringers,
rubbing strips and kick-rails. The photos show
the order in which I built the model; note that
this isn’t the same as the order given in the
instructions, which has the superstructure
completed and windows fitted before the hull
skins. There’s no particular reason for this, it’s
just a personal preference. I’m not going to
write a blow-by-blow account of my build here;
just a few notes to clarify the photos and point
up anything which needs special attention.
The centre part of the keel K1 comes
laser-cut as one piece from which a ‘core’
is removed later to take the prop tube. The
laser-cut parts are retained in their sheets with
a few very short ‘bridges’ which you need to
cut through with a Stanley blade or similar.
You should be sure to cut through the bridge
which holds this core to the rear part of K1,
above the line of the bottom skins. If you don’t
then you will have a devil of a job splitting
out this core later on. A good examination of
the part in question should clarify what I’m
hammering on about here. I sanded the inner
Photo 11 The forward section of the model takes shape.
12
Photo 12 Fitting the side decks.
SEA NYMPH
faces of the cabin sides and rear of bulkhead
B2 and applied a coat of Eze-Kote one part
water based finishing resin before I assembled
them. Your worthy Editor, Admiral Sir Colin
Bishop, had recommended this to me as a
good substitute for sanding sealer, and he was
dead right. I’m sold on it now. I have always
favoured silicon-carbide paper for shaping
and smoothing balsa and plywood. I bought
several rolls of different grades on the Internet
and it does work exceptionally well with the
Eze-Kote. Fit 1/8 inch x 1/8 inch (3mmx3mm)
rails with a 1/4 inch (6mm) gap under them
along the bottom edges of the cabin sides to
support the cockpit floor later. You may need
to restock with this size of strip to finish the
model. It’s a bit of a pain to juggle the parts
to fit together as in Fig 2 of the plan. I used a
mixture of pins, tape and clamps and took a lot
of time to make sure everything was square.
Take care not to snap the cabin sides where
they bend at bulkhead B2, it’s quite a sharp
bend even though they are scored to help you
do this. I didn’t glue the cockpit floor in place at
this stage.
The plans show the deck support
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 19
 13
Photo 13 The foredeck glued into position.
14
Photo 14 The aft area showing the rudder tube.
15
Photo 15 Rudder servo and tiller in place.
strips as being made from 1/8 inch x 1/4
inch (3mmx6mm) strip but the cut-outs in
the bulkheads are for 1/8 inch x 1/8 inch
(3mmx3mm), so that’s what I used. I did add
some extra 1/8 inch x 1/4 inch (3mmx6mm)
along the edges of the breasthook to thicken
it up where the side skins would be glued,
and I used a couple more short strips of the
same material to double up the chine stringers
ahead of B1. The plan at Fig 7 shows a 1/4
inch (6mm) ply mount plate; this is incorrect. It
also shows two tapered hardwood blocks for
mounting the motor. These are not supplied
and would be used only to fit a small diesel
or nitro motor anyway. I would have had to
increase the width of the 1/8 inch (3mm) ply
motor mounting plate supplied to fit between
the chine stringers but fortunately I decided
20 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
17
Photo 17 The completed rudder ready for fitting.
18
Photo 18 The modified cabin roof with tapered side strips added.
to make a new one out of liteply. (I still hadn’t
realised that the mounting plate wasn’t right for
the method I intended of mounting the motor
– see later).
When Les Rowell wrote ‘chisel the keel parts
to accept the skins’ that’s just what he meant.
You’ll not find a better tool for the job but it
must be very sharp and you must keep your
fingers out of the way of it. I then used a David
plane to shape the deck edges and chine
stringers, finishing off with a Permagrit block
and finally 240 grit silicon-carbide paper. The
plywood used for the skins can be bent quite
easily in the steam from a kettle (remove the lid
or it will keep switching itself off.. .). Hold the ply
in the steam for a couple of minutes, applying
gentle pressure to induce a curve. Bend the ply
so that the curve approximates to the keel and
stringer and then hold it in place on the model
until it cools, when it should have retained
most of its curve. You can always re-steam
it if you need to, but allow it to cool and dry
completely before you glue it. I took a little extra
time to make card templates from an empty
cereal packet to get the shape exact where the
bottom skins fit alongside the keel; five minutes
well spent, I reckon.
16 Glue one bottom skin in place and hold it
with plenty of clamps, pins and tape. I cheated
and stuck the very front part of each skin to the
Photo 16 Dimensioned drawing of scratch built rudder. hull with superglue. When both bottom skins
www.modelboats.co.uk

19
Photo 19 Cockpit area and windscreen.
20
Photo 20 The transom and stern.
have been fitted and the glue is hard, trim them
back to the chine stringers with a plane and/
or coarse abrasive paper. Now give everything
you can access inside the framework a good
coating of Eze-Kote or thinned polyurethane
varnish (not the water-based quick-drying type).
Repeat the technique of steaming and fitting
the side skins. Note that there is a step in the
side skins at bulkhead B1 (See Fig 8 on the
plan and Photo 10).
At this stage I decided to fit the rudder and
prop tubes. VMBC had supplied a shaft which
was too long for my installation, so I bought
another from Model Boat Bits (7 inch x 1/4 inch
diameter tube and 8 inch x M4 diameter shaft.
After some brute force, ignorance and post-
watershed language I persuaded that pesky
ply core to come out from the rest of the keel,
and dressed the hole with a rat’s tail file. It was
only then that I offered the motor and mount to
the plate and realised with horror that the plate
was too high in the hull to allow the motor to
fit on top of it and keep the motor shaft in line
with the prop shaft. OMG!!! (DM retired to the
lounge with wounded pride for a brooding sulk,
a good think and a glass of wine).
My solution for this particular model was
a bit of very awkward surgery performed on
the motor plate with an X-Acto #1 knife and
some more of that colourful language, although
I offered a silent ‘Thank you’ to the gods of
modelling for having told me to replace the
www.modelboats.co.uk
21
Photo 21 Construction almost complete in bare wood.
Photo 22 The modified
motor mount to allow the
shaft to line up correctly. 22
mount with (easy to cut) liteply. I made a ply
carrier with angled bearers for the motor, all
from scrap 1/8 inch (3mm) ply which was then
inset into the cut-out I’d made in the liteply
mount. This held the motor at just the right
angle and height to line up with the coupling
and prop shaft. See photo for the final
assembly - PHEW!!! If I were to make another
Sea Nymph then I would shape the top of the
keel K1/K3 right at the start of construction to
take a ply mount, suitably angled and located
to line up the motor with the prop shaft. My
poor scraped knuckles wouldn’t stand another
round of ply-surgery through the top of the
cabin roof! The prop tube was duly epoxied
into position, allowing for the very neat flexible
coupling I’d also bought from Model Boat Bits.
I cut and glued a 1/8 inch (3mm) ply plate to
the top of K1/K3 just ahead of B3 to take the
battery pack.
The rudder which had been sent with the kit
was too large by several degrees and I didn’t
much like the big plastic tiller arm either, so I set
to and made a rudder, tiller and shaft from bits
of brass sheet and rod from my scrap box. I
found a nice brass collet which just fitted onto
the rudder shaft, and the whole assembly was
made to fit the model exactly, see drawing for
dimensions. I dare say a suitable commercial
SEA NYMPH
one can be found to suit. The rudder is
operated with a Hitec HS81 servo, but Iain
Lewis of Component Shop later showed me
a beautiful little 19 gm metal geared servo of
the same size which they are selling at about
£9 and which I would have used had I known
about it.
And that’s about it for describing the
construction phase; the rest of it was a doddle.
Snagging list
Now for the bits which I found weren’t quite to
my liking;
● Several of the laser-cut parts were not the
right shape. The sloping front window panel
and the two halves of the windscreen need to
be wider to allow for sanding to the right taper
at the edges; the 1/16 inch (1.5mm) ply false
transom was 1/16 inch (1.5mm) too small all
round; the motor plate didn’t fit between the
chine stringers at the front.
● The plan shows conflicting information
about the size of strip for the deck support
strips; it also shows two tapered motor
mounting blocks which are neither supplied nor
appropriate for electric motors.
● Two identical (laminated?) parts are supplied
for the transom hatch, yet there is no detail of
these anywhere on the plan.
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 21
 23

Photo 23 Completed rudder setup.

27
24

Photo 24 Cabin layout Photo 27 Stern Eze-Koted afterwards. Three coats of Halfords
with motor, ESC and view shows realistic white primer were then applied and rubbed
25 receiver. appearance afloat. back, followed by three coats of Appliance
Gloss White and four of Renault Midnight Blue
to emulate the colour scheme of my little 20
Photo 26 The completed inch Fairey Swordsman. I used two thinned
model offers scope coats of Rustin’s Satin Polyurethane Varnish
for further detailing and for the deck. The window glazing was applied
Photo 25 The general the addition of crew using De-Luxe Materials’ ‘RC Modellers Glue’,
internal arrangement of members. which dries clear and flexible. The cockpit floor
the model.
26
● The 1/4 inch x 1/2 inch (6mmx12.5mm)
obechi strip supplied needs to be 1/4 inch x
5/8 inch (6mmx15mm) to make the parts each
end of the roof hatch.
● The clear material supplied for the windows
was too thick to work comfortably with a sharp
knife. I had something similar but only half as
thick which I substituted.
● These niggles have been brought to the
attention of VMBC who are making some
modifications to production kits as appropriate.

Finishing and fitting out

I gave the whole model a sanding with 240 and
then 320 grade silicon carbide. A coat of Eze-
Kote resin was followed by a good rub down
with 400 grit silicon-carbide and then a brush
down with the vacuum cleaner to remove all
dust. The rubbing strips and kick-rails were
steamed to the curve of the deck, sanded
to section then fitted with superglue and

22 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 SEA NYMPH

28

Photo 28 Wave pattern at full speed indicates that more power would not necessarily be an advantage.

was cut into three pieces, the middle one made

removable for access to the 2600 mAH NiMH
pack, and veneered in teak with pencil lines
to simulate caulking. I bought a few fairleads,
cleats, a flagstaff and a wheel, and fabricated
a dummy control console from styrene sheet
and brass rod. The cabin door is a scrap piece
of teak veneer with a brass wire handle. If you
want to fit a crew figure then I’d guess the
scale at about 1/16.
The NiMH 6 x AA main power pack
fits underneath the cockpit floor, while the
Planet receiver, 5v UBEC and ACTion P79
speed controller are held to the inside walls
of the forward cabin and bulkhead B2 with
Velcro dots. I also fitted a toggle switch to an 29
aluminium bracket just under the removable
cabin roof .The HS81 servo is linked to the Photo 29 Nice level progress at medium speed shows the balanced design.
tiller arm with a short length of brass rod. I
used a MFA/Como RE385 Low Noise motor cabin cruiser. It would be suitable for a young from GRP and styrene models, taking me back
which draws about 350mA with no load on the person to operate without quickly getting into 40+ years to the smell of sawn wood, peeling
prop, and a 3-blade scale Raboesch Type A trouble, or causing much damage to third wood glue from your fingers and sanding until
brass prop of 30mm diameter. My plan was to parties! The turning circle is sharp with my your arms ache. Apart from one or two minor
substitute a Speed 400 motor and smaller prop home-made rudder and about 30 degrees niggles it goes together very well, much like the
for the ones fitted to see what Sea Nymph movement each way, and after about 20 old kits of the day but without the restriction
does at the other end of the performance minutes running (mainly at full throttle) the NiMH of glue which took ages to set. Finally I know
scale. pack and motor weren’t even warm. More you’ve been dying to find out. Does the new
power would likely produce a bow-wave which Vintage Model Boat Company range use
Performance. would swamp the bows without the addition of marine plywood or not? I can tell you that I too
On the water Sea Nymph is a delight. The chine spray runners a la Swordsman. Maybe dropped a scrap of plywood from the kit into a
model sits level with the batteries installed as that Speed 400 isn’t such a good idea, but I’m jug of water. 48 hours later it was emphatically
shown. The 385LN motor is very quiet and ready to be proved wrong. still one piece.
gives a realistic scale speed for a small Broads Sea Nymph was all-in-all a pleasant diversion I guess they finally caught up with us, John.

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 23

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Miniature Shipmodelling Above: The coasting
ketch Squirrel with
Robert’s trademark pen
Robert A. Wilson F.R.S.A. explains why this branch of the hobby for scale comparison.
deserves to be more popular

Editorial introduction
At any exhibition of ship models where miniatures are on display they always attract a huge amount of interest, perhaps because it is
possible to take in the whole model at a single glance and appreciate its overall shape and dimensions. But many prospective modellers
shy away from attempting miniatures as they are felt to be too hard and require very keen eyesight to build. This may be true to some
extent as miniatures are frequently built to the common 1:1200/1250 scale which does require the ability to work at very small scales. But
not all miniatures have to be that small. As Robert Wilson demonstrates in this article, miniature shipmodelling can encompass much more
manageable scales which are well within the capability of the average modeller and which have much to offer ship model makers who lack
space and workshop facilities in which to work in. Furthermore, this type of modelling is very inexpensive yet can produce extremely high
quality results as Robert so conclusively demonstrates, so why not give it a try? – Ed.

Miniature Shipmodelling
For a number of years now, miniature model
shipbuilding has often been regarded as a field
suitable only for those possessed of absolutely
perfect vision, steady hands and infinite
patience. In this article, I hope to take away
some of the mystique. Firstly, if you can see
well enough to read, then your vision is
sufficient for miniatures. Steady hands are very
important, but a slight shake can be dealt with
by simply resting the side of the hand on the
worktop to steady it. My own hands have
always been perfectly steady, but I came to
appreciate the difficulties experienced by
others, less fortunate in this respect, whilst
serving in old motorships that were well-known
for excessive vibration, especially in ballast!
Finally – patience – I have very little of it myself.
The first model described is the coasting ketch
Squirrel. This small 51 ton vessel was built at
Bridgwater in 1882 and had a length of 74.6
feet and a beam of 19.7 feet. Built to a scale of
20’=1” (1:240) it had a length of 3.73 inches.
The whole build, including the display case,
was completed in 23 hours, spread over 16
days! All the work was timed on a stopwatch!
Apart from the display case, the model itself
can be done on a small table using very simple
hand tools. I use no special magnifying devices
other than reading glasses when building
miniatures.
The scale of the Squirrel was much larger
than my preferred 32’=1” (1:384), but that was
only because at my preferred scale it would
have only been 2.3 inches long and I felt that
was rather too small. 32’=1” comes into its
own when building models of much larger
ships, as I will show later.
The cost of materials is minimal and the
Squirrel was built from off-cuts from larger
models. The hull was made from obeche, a
medium hardwood, but there is no reason why

26 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk


The profile plan pasted on the wood.
The roughly formed hull, cut using paper templates.
The hull after final filling and smoothing.
softer woods, or even balsa wood should not
be used. The masts, spars, and rigging,
including ratlines were all metal, the rigging
being fine copper wire.
I found the plans in the book Schooner
Sunset, by Douglas Bennet. This was
published in 2001, and is therefore still available
on the internet or public libraries. It contains a
large number of small plans that are eminently
suitable for the miniaturist.
First of all, I scanned the plan into the
computer and then adjusted the size to 20’=1”
and printed out several copies. The reason I
printed several copies of the plan was that I cut
them up and use them as templates. This
removes the need for any calculations in
converting the dimensions on the plan to the
size of the model. I always print the plans to the
size of the model I am building. Ideal for
miniatures, but impossible for large scales!
Firstly, I paste a profile plan on the wood
www.modelboats.co.uk
The stages in
building the
hull of the
coasting ketch
Squirrel
using a cheap glue stick. As it will shortly be
removed, a glue stick is the best option, as the
remaining paper can be peeled off easily.
Because the Squirrel had such a shallow
draught, I built a full hull even though the model
was waterline.
The outline was cut out using a small
two-wheel hobby bandsaw. It is a bit more
difficult if you do not have a bandsaw. The
ends can be cut with a normal coping saw, but
the curved top, or sheer, needs to be formed
with either a spokeshave or a coarse file.
A deck plan may then be cut out and pasted
on top to ensure accuracy when cutting out. All
further shaping was done with a coarse file and
various grades of wet and dry abrasive paper.
Before fitting the deck, I cut a vertical slot in
each end. Into these, I glued two thin metal
inserts, one for the stem post and the other,
complete with rudder, in the stern.
The deck was made from 1/32nd marine
MINIATURE SHIPMODELLING
plywood, smoothed down and scored to
represent deck planking. The centre section of
deck, with the main hatch on it, was raised
slightly. That section was just an extra piece of
scored 1/32nd marine plywood glued on top.
The bulwarks were then added, also made
from 1/32nd marine plywood, glued on with
contact adhesive.
After filling the joints between bulwarks and
hull with car filler paste, it was finally smoothed
down.
In the case of the Squirrel, I did plank the
hull, although it wasn’t really necessary. The
planking adds a nice touch, but if it was not
there, and the hull just painted, not many would
notice. The planking was narrow strips of thin
writing paper cut from the sheet using a
scalpel. For fine cutting like that, I always use a
sheet of scrap acrylic left over from display
cases. Acrylic present a smooth surface that is
yielding enough not to damage the scalpel
blade! The paper planks were stuck on the hull,
starting at the top and working down, using
white wood glue applied to both the hull and
the planks with a fine brush.
The deck fittings are simple enough. The
bulwark panels were made using the ‘box
drawing’ font in Microsoft Word. These were
coloured in using the computer. They were
printed on to good quality A4 paper, cut out
and stuck along the inside of the bulwarks. The
hatches and top of the cabin were cut from
obeche sheet or thick plasticard. The hatches
were spray painted with grey matt aerosol car
primer. The top of the cabin was planked with
scored 1/16th marine plywood.
The skylight was made from thin plasticard. I
scored a shallow line along the sheet and then
cut out the square of the skylight. This was
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 27
 Wheels ready for etching.

Foremast rigged. A set of etched wheels.

‘cracked’ slightly to form the sloping top and The completely rigged model.
then stuck on another piece of plasticard using
plastic weld liquid. After it was dry, the four
sides were trimmed off and the ends filled with
white filler paste from a DIY store. The windows
were black squares printed on the computer to
the required size, cut out and glued on. The
black squares are found in the ‘Marlett’ font of
Microsoft Word, using the ‘g’ key.
The boat was carved from the solid and the
keel made from a straight piece of thin copper
wire stuck on with contact adhesive. To make
the wire straight, take a short length and stretch
it very slightly using two small pairs of pliers.
The round parts were various sizes of brass
rod, cut off on the lathe, but wood dowel would
serve just as well.
The wheel was made using a simple etching

Tapering a brass or wooden spar.

28 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 MINIATURE SHIPMODELLING

Making the shrouds and ratlines. Preparing rigging wire. The very realistic sea effect is
modelled by Robert’s wife Christine.

This photo of the schooner method using rub on squares and circles
Lochranza Castle illustrates obtained from a draughtsman supply shop. A
the realism achieved by piece of 2 thou. brass strip was obtained from
Robert in depicting sails as a model shop and sellotaped to a sheet of
described in the text. spare acrylic. The surface was polished up and
then rubbed down with fine grade wire wool to
slightly roughen the surface. The spokes were
then rubbed on using the sides of the squares
to provide fine lines. The circles were then
rubbed over the spokes.
I find it best to make quite a few wheels at
the same time, as it is a tedious business! The
brass between the wheels is painted with
enamel paint using a fine brush. The back of
the brass should be painted over completely.
After the paint is dry, the sheet should be
clipped on to a small piece of thin glass and
placed in the etching fluid. The glass is to
ensure it remains under the fluid. A suitable
etching fluid is either ferric chloride or sodium
persulphate. I prefer the latter because it is
clear. Ferric chloride is dark brown and it is
difficult to see the progress of the etchings.
Crystals of either material may be found on
Ebay.
It is corrosive, so it is essential to wear
goggles when using it. I put about four
teaspoonfuls in 400ml of warm water. The
etching process takes between two and three
hours. It is not excessively corrosive, and if you
do get any on your skin, as long as you wash it
off immediately, it will not burn, but the goggles
really are essential!
I usually paint the back of the brass bright
red and the front green so that when the
etching is complete, the red shows up as a
background to the wheels. After washing, the
sheet should be soaked in white spirit and the
paint wiped off front and back. Because of the
front painting, all the wheels are conveniently
held together until one is needed, when it is just
cut out with a scalpel point. They may be
blackened with a broad-tipped permanent
marker pen.
The masts and bowsprit were made from
brass rod. This can be tapered very easily by
inserting it in a handheld 12 Volt battery drill and
placing it along the almost closed jaws of a
small vice. It is very important to use the drill on
6 Volts only, as 12 Volts can make the rod whip
The 4 masted barque Donna Francisca of 1892 demonstrates the effectiveness of Robert’s rigging techniques. round and fly out. I always wear protective

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 29

 The coaster Austerity.

Half model of a wooden tea clipper showing

the underwater lines.

A simple home made lathe.

goggles when tapering brass rod. The actual The Scottish passenger
tapering is achieved by pressing a smooth flat cargo vessel Lachearn.
file on top and working it from left to right with
varying pressure until the required taper is
obtained. It may sound a bit daunting, but it is
surprising how quickly the tapering technique
can be mastered. If you prefer wooden masts,
that is OK, but my own preference is brass.
The ‘V’ on the end of the bowsprit, is a piece of
fine wire soldered on to take the two stays. If
the masts were wood, these would need to be
fitted into two fine holes drilled in the end of the
bowsprit.
Rigging is a very simple procedure. The sails
were made from white airmail paper and the
lines representing seams were prepared on the
computer using light grey rather than black, so
that they were not too prominent. They were
printed on both sides of the paper. A sail looks
much better if it has a wind-filled look rather
than being flat. I cut the sail slightly larger than
necessary and wet it. It is then placed on the
surface of an ostrich egg (available on Ebay). Austerity and Lochearn make soldered at first. Do not worry, paint it with flux
The egg surface presents a number of curves attractive subjects as starter again and repeat the operation. The shrouds
so that one may be selected to suit the sail to projects which avoid the may be spray painted first with red oxide primer
be formed. Pat the wet sail down with a tissue and finally with satin black. This does not
complexity of larger steamship
and work all the creases out. Cover the sail thicken them up as long as it is used sparingly.
with a large handkerchief and hold it tight at the prototypes Glue them in position using contact
back of the egg. Dry the sail with a small hobby adhesive. The remainder of the rigging is made
heat gun. If you do not want to go to the surrounded by threaded rod in order to get the from short lengths of blackened copper wire. I
expense of an egg, a shiny plastic ball may be correct spacing. The shrouds were soldered use enamelled wire for this, as it does not need
used. The sail is then trimmed to size and stuck across them. to be soldered. Place one end of the wire in a
to the boom, gaff or yard as required using The secret of soldering the shrouds across vice and, run a piece of fine wet and dry paper
contact adhesive. The edges not stuck to the ratlines is to use a liquid flux such as along it to slightly roughen the surface. Blacken
spars may be edged with fine enamelled Baker’s Soldering Fluid. It has the consistency it with a broad-tipped permanent marker pen.
copper wire to give a neater appearance. This of water and may be applied using a fine brush. To make it straight, stretch it slightly with two
is a simple operation. Coat the edge with Again, use goggles as it is slightly corrosive. Do small pairs of pliers as shown. The required
contact adhesive using a cocktail stick and not ‘dab’ the soldering iron, as you need heat length may be measured from the model using
then place the wire along it. transfer to get a good joint. Load a bit of solder dividers, and cut off with a scalpel. Pick it up in
In the Squirrel, model, I completed the on the iron, place it on a shroud and run it the centre with tweezers, dip each end in
mainmast (forward one) first and then the lightly along the whole length. The shroud may contact adhesive, and place it in position. The
mizzen. The ratlines were made from fine be held down with a cocktail stick during this blocks are added later. They are blobs of white
tinned copper wire, wound on a wooden frame operation. You may not get all the crossovers wood glue mixed with a small amount of black

30 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk


A coaster plated with paper plates and ready for
painting.
Cowl and shaft made from brass rod.
acrylic paint, and applied with a fine brush.
Using these methods, rigging is a very
painless exercise as there are no knots
anywhere. Even a four masted barque, or a
full-rigged ship may be rigged within ten days.
The only source f reference I use for rigging is
Masting & Rigging the Clipper Ship & Ocean
Carrier, by Harold A. Underhhill.
Carving a hull like the Squirrel was a very
simple task as, with its straight stem and flat
stern, it was pretty shapeless to begin with.
Full hull models of larger ships are rather more
complex. Most ship model shipbuilders will be
familiar with lines plans that give waterline and
cross-sectional shapes of the hull. On small
scales, it is not too difficult to carve a waterline
hull by eye, using templates of the cross
sections to obtain an accurate shape. Ships
hulls were basically very similar below the
waterline, i.e. pointed at both ends! The
illustration below shows a miniature half model of
a tea clipper. A big iron or steel square-rigger
would only differ slightly in the fact that the keel
would be less prominent and the hull much fuller.
Even large steel sailing ships were still
relatively small when compared with steamers
of later years. A large British four-masted
barque of the late 1890’s would be in the
region of 300 feet in length. So, at 32’=1”, the
hull would still only be 9.4 inches long.
When it comes to modelling ocean-going
steam ships, the size goes up quite
dramatically, especially when it involves
passenger liners. I am quite sure that it is the
physical size of large ships that prevent a lot of
people from modelling them as the most
popular scales seem to be 8’=1” and larger.
That would give a 400-foot-long hull a model
length of 50 inches, and that is very large for a
model. But at 32’=1” it would only be 12.5
inches long.
Naturally, a smaller model costs a lot less to
produce and has the advantage of not taking
www.modelboats.co.uk
Robert’s superb model of the BISN liner Kenya to 32’=1” scale is a more complex subject but is built using the same
techniques as for the simpler models.
Soldering the shaft to the cowl.
up much space, a fact very much appreciated
by the ladies of the household! I do use a
number of power tools when building
miniatures, such as a small lathe, band saw
and drill press.But these are more time-saving
than anything else. When I was at sea, I
couldn’t take these items with me, so had to
manage without. But I did construct a
rudimentary lathe using a 12 Volt drill. This was
extremely useful for shaping round objects.
When in use, it was secured to the desk by a
G clamp. The drill could easily be removed by
slacking off the two wing nuts on top.
The hand tools that are really essential, are a
pair of fine tweezers, a small vice, two small
pairs of pliers, jeweller’s saw, a good selection
of small flat files and needle files, scalpel and a
small hand-held 12 Volt drill. Other tools may
be acquired as you progress.
Being rather impatient when it comes to
waiting for paint to dry, I tend to use quick-
drying water-based paints such as Chroma
Artists Colour for wood or paper surfaces. For
hulls and metal work, I use aerosol matt
primers in white, red oxide and grey and
various other colours for masts, decks and
hatches. All these paints dry very quickly,
usually within half an hour.
I always do the spraying outside and wear a
paint fume mask as well, because the fumes
are pretty awful!
Ships of the early to mid 1900s came in so
many shapes and sizes, it would take a lifetime
to model them all. Their colour schemes were
MINIATURE SHIPMODELLING
The rail frame. The old radio terminals are for
securing the wire.
also varied and attractive as opposed to the
uniform grey of warships.
Again, there are plenty of small scale plans to
be found in books such as Steam Coasters,
British Ocean Tramps etc by Waine Research
Publications, and other similar books. By far the
largest selection of plans may be found in old
marine engineering journals, many of which are
out of print, but often available in public libraries
or on the internet, although they are usually
very expensive. Journals such as: Shipbuilder,
Shipbuilding & Shipping Record, The Motor
Ship, The Shipping World, Shipbuilder & Marine
Engine Builder, being among the best! Sadly, a
lot of British libraries and technical colleges are
disposing of these historical journals at an
alarming rate, but they may still be found for
sale online from time to time.
It is a common fallacy that building
steamships is a lot easier than sailing ships, but
in truth, it is the other way round. A sailing ship
has few decks and only quite basic deck
structures and equipment. The rigging itself is
quite simple, if repetitive, when using the
stretched copper wire method already
described.
A steam ship has many decks, lots or rails,
portholes, ladders, windows, doors and
lifeboats, as well as large numbers of winches,
derricks and cargo gear. Fortunately, the new
miniaturist may start small with small coasters
such as Austerity and Lochearn, shown
opposite.
These were very small vessels, but still quite
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 31
Boats in various stages of forming.
A completed display case for a full hull steamer.
attractive. In both cases, the hulls were carved
from solid. The Lochearn was the easier of the
two, because she was flush-decked. The
Austerity had a raised forecastle and long
raised quarterdeck. These two decks were
added separately.
Brass inserts cut to the shape of bow and
stern were glued into vertical slots in the hull.
This ensures a correct profile when finishing off
the carving. The stern insert also included the
propeller aperture and rudder. A horizontal slot
had to be cut in it to take the brass stern tube
for the propeller shaft. This was soft-soldered in
position. After the inserts were fitted, the gaps
were filled with car body filler.
The hulls were plated with paper plates
stuck on with white wood glue. Each strip was
spaced by an equal distance to the plate
height. After painting, this gave a very realistic
impression of the common method of raised
and sunken plating strakes. The Lochearn had
a narrow white band separating the black from
the red underwater colour, whilst the Austerity
had a narrow white band running the length of
the hull at the level of the bulwark tops. These
bands were strips of white writing paper stuck
on. The junction between black and red on the
hull of the Austerity was sharpened up by
sticking a strip of black-painted writing paper
along the junction.
The accommodation blocks were cut from
obeche sheet and faced with white plasticard.
The plasticard was stuck on using contact
adhesive. This removes the need for painting if
the accommodation is to be white. Portholes
were drilled in using the small hand-held 12 Volt
electric drill.
The windows were made on the computer
by selecting ‘Marlett’ in the fonts.The key ‘g’
(lower case) produces a black square. Using
32 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
Asembling the display case.
It is essential
to case
miniatures to
protect them
as well as
show them
off to best
advantage Leave the top off while making the inner base.
common computer techniques, these squares
may be stretched vertically to produce deeper
windows as in the Kenya model. A series of
these may be printed on to a self-adhesive
sheet of Safmat film (from drawing supply
shops). The windows may then be cut out and
stuck on. This method makes very neat
windows, especially if a lot of them are required
such as in a passenger liner.
Cowl ventilators that often seem to cause
problems with miniaturists, can be made with a
minimum of effort from brass rod. To form the
cowls, I place a piece of brass rod in the lathe
and round off the end with a smooth file. I then
part it off from the rod by holding a jeweller’s
saw against it. The solid cowl is then re-
inserted into the lathe chuck, rounded end first.
A dental burr or even another drill is placed in
the tail stock and advanced into the cowl,
hollowing it out. If you do not have a lathe with
a tailstock, just leave the cowls solid. Ventilators
often had a grid over the cowl that made them
look solid at a distance. The brass shaft to the
cowl may be soldered on using a simple jig.
Saw the lower jaw off a crocodile clip or a
bulldog clip and screw it to a small piece of
wood.The cowl is held under the jaw, and the
shaft is placed against it, being held down with
a scrap piece of wood whilst the joint is
soldered. The wood prevents a burned finger.
After smoothing with fine wet & dry paper, the
ventilator may be spray painted and the inside
of the cowl painted the appropriate colour,
usually red.
Deck rails may be made in bulk using a
simple jig made from a piece of wood with
threaded rod glued around the sides to ensure
equal spacing. Using 38 swg tinned copper
wire, wind the horizontal bars on first. Then
wind the verticals across them. Paint the whole
network with liquid flux (Baker’s Soldering
Fluid). Apply a small amount of solder to the
iron and run it quickly across each vertical in
turn. This process may have to be repeated
several times before all the joints are made. Cut
the rails from the frame and spray them with
white matt primer from a car accessories shop.
They may then be cut off the network as
required. When I glue them to the model using
contact adhesive, I do not try and fit the
verticals into holes in the deck - too difficult! I
glue the lower bar directly on to the deck .I am
aware that 38 swg wire is a bit over scale, but
finer wire is harder to work with, and the slight
deviation from scale is not noticeable anyway!
The lifeboats may be made from plasticard
(about 1mm thick) and formed in a miniature
vacuum box. This is a common process often
used by aero modellers. A wooden boat ‘plug’
is carved and glued to a thin sheet of wood
www.modelboats.co.uk
 MINIATURE SHIPMODELLING

Length overall ................................................. 163 ft

Moulded breadth ............................................. 29 ft
Speed ................................................12 1⁄2 knots
Machinery output .....................................600 b.h.p
Owners ............................... David MacBrayne, Ltd.
Hull builders ....................Ardrossan Dockyard, Ltd.
Engine builders ... Norris, Henty and Gardners, Ltd.

The plan from the Motor Ship magazine used to build the Lochearn model (By Kind permission of the Motor Ship)

with holes drilled all around it. This is placed in a
small wooden box with an upper and lower
chamber. The boat plug being between the
two halves. A normal household vacuum
cleaner is plugged into a suitable hole in the
lower chamber. A sheet of plasticard is placed
over the boat and the top of the box closed.
There should be an oblong opening cut out of
the lid leaving the plasticard exposed over the
boat. The plasticard is heated up with a small
hobby heat gun and after it has gone soft
(about 30 seconds), the vacuum cleaner is
turned on and the plasticard is sucked down
over the boat.
I print the insides of the boats on self-
adhesive paper and stick them to thin
plasticard and glue these inside the boat shells.
Although they are completely flat and solid,
they look very neat in miniatures. The grab-lines
(rope loops around the outside of the boat)
may also be made on the computer, printed on
paper and stuck on.
The computer is also used to mass-produce
other items such as skylights, doors, bulwarks
panels etc. All these items are drawn large
scale, reduced to the required scale, printed
onto self-adhesive film and stuck on to the item.
I also prefer to make my own display cases.
I find it best to cut and assemble the base
quadrant first. This is 18mm pine quadrant,
veneered with steamed beech veneer. The
corners may be held with corner clamps whilst
the glue is drying.
The side panels are made from 3mm acrylic,
that comes with a protective plastic coating on
each side. The front and back panels are fitted

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 33


RMS Carmania. The basic hull upside down with the sheer cut out.
Stern roughly shaped.
Main structure well advanced.
first, being screwed to the quadrant from the
inside with contersunk brass screws. Do not
forget to cut a narrow vertical strip of the inner
plastic coating off the panels where the end
pieces will be glued. Fit the end panels, using
contact adhesive on the sides and screw along
the bottom as with the front and back panels.
Leaving the top open, cut an inner base and
then edge it with bevelled wood, again working
through the open top. By doing it this way, a
perfect fit of the base is guaranteed. If the
model is to be waterline, a tight fitting shallow
34 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
Stern insert ready for fitting.
Ready for lifeboats and fine detail.
tray is made to fit the bevelling and filled with
plasticine that is shaped to form the sea. The
sea may be painted with gloss enamels, the
blue first, followed by a darker blue in the
troughs, and finally the white that should be
added whilst the blue is still wet so that it runs.
The junction between sea and bevelling may
be covered with tightly twisted 24swg
enamelled copper wire, for a neat effect.
If the model is to be full hull, I fill up the centre
of the base with a piece of veneered wood, but
still add the twisted wire at the junction
The Cunard liner RMS Carmania
Bow roughly shaped.
between the bevelling and the veneer.
The top of the case may then be glued on.
Remove the protective coating on the underside
of the top before fitting it. Veneer the display
case edges and either varnish or French Polish.
Finally, remove the protective coating from both
inside and outside of the case.
The use of miniature scales means that
the modeller is not unduly restricted by size
when it comes to building large vessels such
as the 19,524 gross ton RMS Carmania,
above.
www.modelboats.co.uk

SCALE HOBBIES
UNIT 20 , SANDY LANE, SKELMERSDALE , WN8 8LQ
We stock a
large range of
Robbe fittings
plus 1000’s of
others
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We have a large range of
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in fibre glass , this is a Eldergarth /Rowengarth 1/32nd £64.00
small selection , please
ring for more details TID tug 1/24th with plan £55.00
NEW Superstructure and bridge in fibreglass with plan
MOULDING £ 100.00
Mail order is available for all of our products
We stock a wide range of
scale model ship card kits for
you to build including:
Scale 1:200 - Full Hull
HMS Prince of Wales...£51.95
HMS Matabele..............£25.95
USS Missouri................£59.95
Graf Spee.......................£29.95
Tirpitz............................£48.95
Opening times – Fri & Sat
9.30am-5pm.
www.scalehobbies.net
We also have a large selection of
radios in 2.4ghz , including Planet T5
and Pulse etronix radios in stock
Moorcock £55.00 1/32 scale with plan We get regular
shipments
German Harbour Tug with plan £45.00
Of Graupner fittings
Searcher - Custom and Excise Launch Building materials and
tools are also available
with plan £45.00
Applegarth 36" with plans £58.00 MTRONIKS
Speed controllers
Full range of viper
speed controllers
Plus
S Class Manchester ship canal tug, 1957 Hull, Many others
available
Please ring for prices
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Send your order with
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*14-day “NO QUIBBLE”
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SMS Seydlitz.................£56.95 condition)
Scale 1:400 - Waterline
Book “Card Modelling -
HMS King George V....£12.95
Basic & Advanced Tech-
HMS Ajax......................£11.95
niques” - £16.95, Overseas sur-
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face mail£20.95, airmail £23.95
HMS Sheffield...............£10.95
HMS Belfast..................£11.95
HMS Roberts..................£8.95
RiverCat (or the art of floating
your own boat) Paul Thomason shows you how to design
your own model.

Editorial Introduction
Most model boat modellers build their models from plans or kits but there are always people who want to give free rein to their creative
urges and design their own craft. This is easier said than done and it can be difficult to know where to start and how to avoid designing in
some basic error that will put paid to the prospects of producing a successful model. In this article, Paul Thomason shows how to go about
designing a relatively simple model with a hull that can be used at several scales and with a variety of potential superstructures. Readers
therefore have the opportunity to build to Paul’s design, modify it to their own tastes or simply use the principles Paul has set out to have a
go at something completely different.

RiverCat
Designing your own model boat should be fun
because it’s your chance to put into one special
model all of the best bits from boats that you
have seen or built before.
Getting the idea out of your head, onto
paper and ultimately built is a very satisfying
experience; yes there will be problems and
times when nothing seems to fit together
as expected and all you want to do is throw
the whole thing in the bin, but don’t despair
because when you persevere and solve
these problems the resulting model will be an
achievement that you will be proud of.
Best of all because it’s a one off model it will
be completely unique and it is guaranteed to
create a stir when you sail it on the boating lake
for the very first time, model boaters are curious
by nature and will not be able to resist looking
at the model and asking endless questions
along the lines of ‘is it a kit’ or ‘did you build
from plan’ and ‘can I have a go?’
Can you think of a more pleasant way to
spend a sunny summer’s day than standing at
the water’s edge, surrounded by your friends
whilst talking about how you designed and built
your own boat; doesn’t it sound idyllic?
What your friends don’t know is that you
were standing at the same lake edge a week
ago in the pouring rain trying to figure out why
your pride and joy was going round and round
in circles and not responding to the radio
commands whilst the hull was taking in water
from an elusive split joint that refuses to be
found.
Don’t be put off by the prospect of making
a mistake or worry about getting your ideas
down on paper because, in truth, all it takes
to design a model boat is the ability to do
some simple mathematics, geometry and a
basic understanding of some model building
concepts.
Most people who are involved in model
boating can visualize how a new model would
look in their mind’s eye and only need to sort
out a few basic design principles to get started.
To demonstrate the basics of the
design process this article will focus on the
development of a simple semi-scale model
boat from conception through to final working
drawings and production of a prototype.
Concept (the thinking bit)
Before jumping in and starting to draw the
technical details it is essential to have a definite
idea of what the model is going to look like,
how it will perform and what the overall sizes
should be. Take it from me there is nothing
more frustrating than sitting in front of a piece
of paper, pencil in hand and a blank look on
your face.
In this particular case the intention is to
create a fast river utility craft with a shallow draft

36 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 RIVERCAT

catamaran type hull, twin engines and a heavy 800mm

weather superstructure.
At this early stage the sizes can only be Fig 1
estimated but the objective is a model of
approximately 800mm length, 300mm width
with an overall height of 250mm. In other
words, big enough to be impressive but small
enough to fit on the back seat of the average 260mm
Rudder Servo
family car.
W/L Motor W/L
A catamaran hull will provide stability to the Battery Pack
model whilst positioning the motors & batteries Kort Nozzle
in the bottom of the hull and towards the stern
will keep the centre of gravity low and place
the ballast weight of the equipment in the Fig 2
correct place. The whole model could be easily
operated with an entry level 2 channel radio set. Stern View Side View Bow View
At this point in the procedure a rudimentary
sketch of the model should be produced,
FIG 1 to highlight the shape and intended
size, type and locations of major fittings such Sheet of paper large
as motors, shafts, batteries and servos. This Plan View enough to accomodate
sketch will be an invaluable reference when all views
producing the detailed drawings as it will serve
to focus the mind and prevent the design from

Position the base & construction

Fig 3 lines so that the Side View
drawing fits in between them
Fig 4 Position the lowest part
50mm Construction Line of the Side View
Base Line drawing on the grey
Side View
construction line
50mm
Construction Line

50mm 50mm 50mm 50mm

FIG 3

wandering off course. system called first angle orthographic

Fig 5
Once you have the idea firmly fixed in your projection, some readers may recognise this
mind, it’s time to gather up the materials style of drawing as slightly different versions
that you’ll be using to draw your model boat were taught in schools but if you are not familiar Side View

design. You will need a pencil, a ruler, as well
as a straight edge that is somewhere between
600mm and 1m in length, a 600mm T-square,
a 45deg and 30/60 deg set squares. Finally
you will need a sheet of paper large enough to
take a full size drawing of the model including
side, end and plan elevations.
In the case of the RiverCat a sheet 841mm
x 2000mm was required FIG 2 which quite
handily came off a roll of A0 width drafting
paper, yes it’s a big piece of paper but bear
in mind that the drawing is being created full
size to enable the creation of templates and
other details for the build, if you can’t get hold
of a large enough sheet of paper you could try
using wallpaper lining paper or sticking a few
sheets of copy paper together.
The same system can be employed if you
want to draw using a computer based drawing
programme and if you have a printer with a
poster function you will be able to print the
drawing onto sheets of A4 paper then stick the
various bits together to produce a full size plan,
with this method the RiverCat drawing would
be made up of 30 sheets of A4 paper.
Working it out (the drawing bit)
A fairly straight forward way to create an
accurate set of plans is to use a drawing
with the term don’t be put off by the long
winded title as the drawing system is easy to
understand and comparatively trouble-free to
use.
As this is a short article there simply isn’t the
space to fully explain first angle projection and
so we can only have a brief look at the basic
principles, however if you want to learn more
about this drawing system there are many
tutorials available either on line or at your local
library.
Firstly fix the paper to a board with clips or
masking tape making sure that the edges of
the paper are level and ‘square’ with the edges
of the board. Fixing the paper will help if using
a T square as the tool will follow the edges of
the board making sure that all of the straight
lines that you draw are perfectly vertical or
horizontal.
This version of first angle requires some base
lines to be drawn first, shown in red, and then a
set of construction lines, shown in dashed grey,
the grey construction lines are 50mm from
the red base lines, please note that the initial
positioning of the construction lines is based
upon the size of the Side View and that the
Side View drawing must fit in between the grey
construction lines as shown in FIG 3.
The sheet is now ready to begin drawing the
Vertical transfer lines
Plan View
Side View; this should be done in complete
detail starting by positioning the lowest part of
the drawing on the construction line as shown
in FIG 4 when the Side View is complete move
on to draw the Plan View.
Having already decided how wide the boat
will be, the Plan View width can be drawn and
other details can be transferred from the Side
View to the Plan View by using vertical lines as
shown in blue on FIG 5.
The Bow View can now be drawn by
transferring the detail from the Side View with
horizontal lines as shown in blue on FIG 6.
Details can be transferred from the plan view
with horizontal lines, shown in green, drawn to
the vertical base line. The line is then drawn at
45 degrees to the horizontal base line at which
point it is drawn vertically to meet with the blue
horizontal lines, where the corresponding blue
and green lines intersect is the point at which

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 37

 Fig 6
Fig 7

Bow View
Stern View

Horizontal base line

Plan View

45deg
45deg
Vertical base line Vertical base line
FIG
the detail is drawn.
Repeat the process to draw the Stern View
FIG 7.
With all of the construction lines removed the
drawing will show accurate plan, side, bow and
stern views as shown on FIG 8 and can now
Fig 8
Removal of the construction
be detailed with internal frames (shown in blue)
and base lines. notes and dimensions as in FIG 9 the drawing
can also be used to extract template details as
shown in FIGs 10 & 11.

Looking at what you have

drawn (helpful images)
A drawing method that fits in with first angle
42
334

209 128 24 292

812

28 127 15
300

200
and allows you to look at an ‘as built’ image
7.5 7.5 64 64 64
11

of the model is an engineering style of

2.5 2.5
46 48 30

93deg
7.5
Detail showing construction of
deck / hull connection.
Deck edge slots into recess to 70 129 29
minimise water ingress into hull. 29
Deck 55
3
69deg
72

Orthographic Projection FIG 12 although time

6x3 stripwood Hull side 3
30
66 30 28
36 124deg
155 30
3

2dia 104 43

264 43

43
24
90
132deg

125
284
consuming to draw it is an ideal way of having
81

53

16
53

15
Rudder Post
49deg
a critical look at your design without having to
go through the process of building an abortive
77 57
41 60 41 60

111deg 6mm dia shaft 111deg

35deg
35mm Kort Nozzle

30 30
30

prototype.
68 120 46 58 555 70 50 27 68 127 68
68

66 170 178 150 155 124 323

Add notes and From a designers point of view this type

Fig 9 87
12

dimensions of image is the easiest way to demonstrate

129
185 Internal frames shown
322
to themselves and more importantly to other
in blue
people the theory and details behind the
12

design.
87

123 24 121 29 146 29 128 15 235

FIG 9
To begin, draw two lines at 30 degrees
from a vertical line, the length of one 30 deg
The frames can be identified
line would be the same as the overall length
and extracted from the drawing of the model, the other 30 deg line being the
same length as the width of the model and
the vertical line the same as the height of the
model, FIG 13, then draw a box made of lines
Fig 10 set parallel to the first three, FIG 14.
With dimensions taken from the first
angle plan build up the 3D model inside the
construction box using the same 30 degree
angles and parallel line system FIG 15 continue
to add details FIG 16 until the 3D model is
complete.
Some readers will make the connection
3 2 1
between this drawing and images that they
5 4 have seen from modern CAD systems and it is
very true to say that some CAD packages do
use a 3D version of orthographic projection.
1 2 3
This brings us very neatly into a brief
4 5
discussion about Computer Aided Drawings
Fig 11 (CAD) because even though we have been
looking at hand created drawings the same
3 1 2 technical drawing results can be achieved by
using a CAD system, as can be seen from all of
the drawings and images in this article.
If you are able to use CAD or have the time
4 5 and patience to learn how to operate the
Templates for the frames
software (most packages come with built in
step by step tutorials) then CAD can open
FIG 11

38 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 RIVERCAT

Fig 12
up a whole new world of possibilities to the
budding designer. For example look again
at FIG 12 as a hand drawn image it is a very
good representation of what the finished model
should look like but to change the viewing
angle or to add colour you would have to hand
draw more images. However with CAD the
l
Height of model de
Wi
dth f mo viewer can see the original drawing in wire frame,
o
of th outline or full colour FIG 17 with or without
mo Fig 13 ng
de Le
l
Setting up for
dimensions and in addition to these facilities
Engineers Orthographic Projecti
30deg 30deg Ortographic Projection there is also the ability to look from any angle or
zoom in to view specific details FIG 18.
If drawn in CAD the image can be
manipulated in a myriad of ways and in a
Construction Box for multitude of different sizes and scales.
Ortographic Projection
For those who are thinking about dipping
Fig 14 their feet into CAD there are some very good
and relatively inexpensive packages that will run
quite well on the modern domestic computer.
Personally I have always used TurboCad and I
Fig15 am currently running version 19 pro and whilst
it doesn’t have all of the bells and whistles of
the market leader it is considerably cheaper
30deg 30deg
and does meet all of my requirements.

Building up the 3D model An insight into the design

(What makes this design tick)
FIG 15 At first glance this boat would seem to have all
Building up the 3D model of the hydrodynamics and grace of a skip but
look closer and you will see some simple little
tweaks that make this hull very agile.

Fig 16

Fig 18
Fig 17

CAD Full colour view

CAD Zoom facility

Side View Front View

Half Speed
Bow Detail Bow Detail At Rest

Fig 19
Fig 20

Underdrawn Bow
Inwardly Angled Hull

Lift Air Flow Lift

Full Speed
At Rest Half Speed

Fig 21

Increased
Air Flow
Air Flow

Area of compressed air Wetted area of hull Lift

Maximum Lift

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 39

 Eggbox frame construction
Fig 22
Lateral frames
Fig 24
Shape the stringers to the correct angles
before locating them within the lateral frames
Fig 27
The under drawn bow and the inward
angle on the lower hull allows for a rapid rise
onto the plane whilst the large central cut out
running the length of the hull lessens water
drag by decreasing the wetted area and offers
a reduced bow profile. FIG 19.
The angled section of the lower hull also aids
with the rapid rise to the plane but really comes
into its own when cornering as the angle
pushes the hull up and keeps it from ‘digging
in’ as it powers into a turn. FIG 20.
The location of the motors, batteries
and servos places the ballast weight of the
equipment in the most effective position but
depending upon the choice of batteries it is
likely that the boat will require additional ballast
to achieve its designed water line. The drawing
indicates the design locations for any additional
ballast which have been based upon utilising
strip sheets of 4lb lead.
40 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
Longitudinal frames
Stringers
Fig 25
Oddly enough aerodynamics also play a
significant part in this design as when the
boat moves forward the cut out in the hull
also works as an air trap and compresses air
between the bottom of the hull and the water
surface. FIG 21.
The compressing air creates an area of
positive pressure within the confined space
which provides lift to the hull and as the boat
moves faster the increasing air flow creates
more pressure with the resulting extra lift.
Even the large spray deflector on the bow
plays its part by channelling extra air below the
hull.
The double sponson hull provides a wide
and stable footprint for the model and prevents
it rocking when travelling at speed. At the
stern the lower hull is recessed to protect
the propellers and steering gear allowing
the model to operate in shallow water, this
Fig 23
Stringers
Fig 26
arrangement also helps reduce cavitation and
the employment of Kort Nozzles means the
model can manoeuvre at low speed.
The hull’s internal frame layout, which is
commonly referred to as egg box, provides a
light and rigid frame to build the model around;
this method of model construction goes back
many years and can be found in many kits
FIG 22, the frame also enables the model
to withstand significant levels of stress and
flexing as it disperses any imposed or impact
loads throughout the model which is ideal if,
like me, you happen to be a bit of a numpty
when sailing and have a tendency to drop the
boat when getting it out of the car or worse still
getting the radio commands back to front and
hitting the bank at high speed.
Building the prototype
(The checking bit)
Building a prototype of your design is a very
effective way of finding out if everything fits and
is usually done with cheaper and more easily
worked materials.
When building prototypes I usually use 6mm
craft foam board (sometimes called display
board) and strong 280gsm card, both can be
easily cut with a craft knife and are far cheaper
than plywood.
Start the build with the longitudinal frames
FIG 23 and then join them to the lateral
www.modelboats.co.uk

Detail showing construction of
deck / hull connection.
Deck edge slots into recess to
minimise water ingress into hull.
Deck
Fig 28 Hull side
Medium Crane Barge
Fig 30
sections FIG 24, these frames lock together
in an open box structure and can kept
square during construction by inserting some
temporary braces.
Now trim to shape the full length stringers
before gluing them to the lateral frames FIG 25
Stringers are an integral part of the build and
it is important to get them right as they add
considerable strength to the hull joints FIG 26.
Without the stringers the hull joints would
be very weak as the glued area between the
panels would be small and as such the joints
would be liable to fail when subjected to lateral
stress or impact point loads. FIG 27.
The stringers do far more than treble the
effective glued area of the joint as they also
act as a sub-frame supporting the skin and
providing greater rigidity to help resist impact
damage.
It is now a fairly straightforward matter to
complete the rest of the hull by simply following
the plan to identify the relevant pieces.
Moving onto the deck and superstructure,
the design of the RiverCat differs from the norm
by having a fully removable deck (the reason for
www.modelboats.co.uk
Long Reach Excavator
Work Boat
Fig 29
Fast pleasure craft or military raider
which will become apparent later) this raises the
problem of waterproofing the internal hull and
equipment.
With traditional models the deck is usually
fixed in position and access to the internal
equipment is through central cut outs which are
protected against water ingress by coamings
and a tight fitting superstructure.
For all practical purposes the removable
deck moves the requirement for waterproofing
from below the superstructure to the joint
between the hull and deck.
To overcome this problem a downward
coaming fitted to the underside edge of the
deck slots into a channel formed on the inside
of the hull FIG 28 although not a perfect seal
this arrangement does provide adequate
splash protection.
The superstructure is a familiar shape
normally associated with inshore boats but
in this case the design has been simplified to
ease construction and can be quite quickly
assembled, the simple design can also
accommodate alterations to suit many different
uses.
RIVERCAT
Fig 31
What is scale?
(the confusing bit)
To illustrate the difference between size and
scale the RiverCats hull is multi functional,
in its present guise it is a fast river boat at
approximately 1:20 scale, with a change of
deck and superstructure it becomes a dredger
but still at 1:20 scale FIG 29, or change again
and the model becomes a medium crane
barge FIG 30.
In this configuration the hull is still the same
size as the one on the RiverCat but the scale
has changed to 1:40.
Finally change the scale again to 1:12
FIG 31, and the model becomes a fast open
pleasure boat or military type raider.
The possibilities when playing with scale are
far from infinite but the shrewd modeller could
certainly produce at least six different variants
of deck and superstructure to sit on the one
size of hull.
The full size plan is available from Paul
Thomason through the Forum on the Model
Boats Website www.modelboats.co.uk
Unfortunately a spell of ill health meant that
Paul did not have the opportunity to fit out
the model before this issue went to press
but it would be quite straightforward to do
so as referred to in the text. The choice of
motors and running gear would of course
be a matter for the builder depending
upon the type of vessel to be depicted and
performance required
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 41
 Above: The 1969 built diesel tug Hollygarth was

Tugs fitted with a single Kort screw and nozzle.

One of the most practical of boat modelling subjects

Give us a Tow! propulsion, great power and manoeuvring So why model a tug?
Towage was among the very first tasks the characteristics made them particularly suitable. As modelling subjects, tugs have
early steamships were used for. From the However, screw tugs quickly became the tremendous appeal:
mid 19th century up until the inter war period, norm with either one or two shafts and these ● Most types make very practical models
steam tugs were used to tow the famous tea comprised the majority until more innovative with their deep draught and built in stability.
clippers and other commercial sailing vessels forms of propulsion were introduced in the ● They will easily accommodate lots of
the last few miles up the Thames Estuary to latter part of the 20th century. Modern tugs extra working equipment for those who like
their London berths and hiring the fastest tug have very sophisticated propulsion systems that sort of thing.
could make the difference between winning which give them extraordinary manoeuvrability ● You can build them to relatively large
or losing a race that had begun in China using methods such as steerable kort scales and get a nice chunky model which
or Australia. So tugs have a long pedigree nozzles, azipod thrusters and Voith Schneider will still fit easily in your car.
extending back some 160 years which means vertical blade propellers, all of which can be ● Many feature bright, attractive colour
that the intending modeller has a huge variety reproduced in model form. schemes which give them great pond
of prototypes to choose from ‘presence’.
when considering ● Whether your preference is for vintage,
this type of model. classic or modern designs, you can be sure
Early tugs were of finding one that appeals to you.
paddle driven ● They offer the opportunity to use out
and this form of of the ordinary methods of propulsion, a
propulsion endured challenge that appeals to many people.
for many years, the ● There is plenty of commercial support in
last major example terms of plans, kits, fittings and running gear
being the Royal to suit all skill levels.
Navy’s Director So what’s not to like?
class built in 1956
to handle aircraft
carriers for which their Left: In the latter days of sail, ships would often finish
independent paddle their journey under tow. (From an old postcard).

42 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk


Above: A typical ‘traditional’ tug. This is the Lady Wooes from
Mobile Marine Models.
Above: The RN Director class tug Forceful and her
sisters were designed for handling aircraft carriers.
A 1/48 scale (1m) hull and plan is available from
MyHobbyStore Ref: HULMM1292/MM1292.
Tugs come in all shapes and sizes from
those which are little more than work launches
fitted with towing gear through the many types
of harbour ship handling tugs to the deep sea
towage, salvage and rescue craft. Additionally
there are specialist types such as those
designed to support the offshore oil industry.
A few points to ponder
A big and chunky hull is also a heavy one; you
may need a carrying/launching cradle if your
knees are not in the first flush of youth.
If building a ‘traditional’ tug then a single
screw design will generally handle better than a
twin screw one as the rudder will be in the prop
stream. Twin screw models will benefit from the
use of mixers so that the propellers assist with
the turning but all models are different!
Because you are pushing a relatively heavy
hull along it is important to size the motor(s)
correctly and equally essential to match the
propeller to the motor. Single screw tugs often
have large props and these can easily overload
www.modelboats.co.uk
Left: Caldercraft’s big
Imara superkit comes
in twin or single screw
versions, the latter to
facilitate installation of a
steam plant.
the motor if you are not careful which at best
results in high current consumption and at
worst a fried motor. Some way of gearing the
propeller down is frequently beneficial, either
by gears or belt drive with a ratio of around
2.5:1 being typical. Speed controllers also need
to be able to accommodate the amperage
drawn at full speed on a continuous basis to
avoid blowing them. However, get the right
combination and your tug will happily chug
around the pond for hours with no problems.
One other point which is sometimes
overlooked is that because a tug hull is usually
pretty seaworthy and stable, builders simply fit
the removable superstructure over a coaming
on the deck. The superstructure itself can be
quite substantial and if the model is tossed
around by waves then there is a very real
possibility of it becoming dislodged unless it is
firmly secured to the hull. In those conditions,
if the top comes off then the boat will almost
certainly go down!
As a popular boat modelling option, tug
TUGS
Below: A lighthearted Above: Graupner’s
take on the model tug popular Glasgow
is the Springer which paddle tug kit going
combines a standard astern at Brighton
hull with any sort of Modelworld.
superstructure you like
to dream up!
models are well catered for on the internet
model boating forums in terms of build logs,
dealing with questions and helping to resolve
problems, particularly with the more exotic
methods of propulsion; there is an enormous
amount of practical support out there in
cyberspace!
Commercial Resources
The model tug builder is also very well
supported by the trade. Starting closest to
home, the Model Boats Plans Service lists
almost 70 tug drawings offering scratchbuilders
everything they could wish for in terms of
scales, types and skill levels. There are also
hulls available for a number of the drawings.
Plans from other sources are also available with
a bit of Internet searching but these days, unlike
in the past, it can be difficult to obtain plans
from owners and builders of modern vessels
due to commercial confidentiality.
Kit builders are equally well catered for with
many manufacturers including tugs within their
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 43
Above: Armed naval tugs make an interesting Right: A modern Above: A modern
contrast with their civilian counterparts. Many shiphandling harbour harbour tug with
eventually ended up in civilian service. tug, SD Hercules is firefighting capability, this
in service at the RN smart example by John
Devonport naval base. Boyd is seen here at a
Chantry club regatta.

Tugs offer a
huge variety
of prototypes
from different
eras for
modelling
purposes

Right: A selection of
winches from Mobile
Marine Models
demonstrates the
support given to tug
modelling by this
Above: Tugs offer lots of opportunities for super manufacturer and
detailing as this close up shows. others.

ranges. One company, Mobile Marine Models, currently available.

specialise in tugs with their ‘Model Tugnology’
slogan and act as a one stop shop for all things
tug encompassing full kits, hulls, specialist
fittings, running gear, including a range of Kort
nozzles, and even a selection of funnel and
exhaust casings all of which can be seen on
their website www.mobilemarinemodels.com
Traditional tugs feature in the Caldercraft and
Mountfleet Models ranges while most of the
major kit manufacturers include tugs of various
types from 19th century paddle tugs to the
latest high technology versions.
A wide range of tug hulls with plans are also
available, with Kingston Mouldings and Models
By Design offering a variety of options to suit
all tastes. Running gear and fittings can be
obtained from many of the kit manufacturers
themselves and also from specialist traders.
Space precludes mentioning all sources
of supply but visiting the websites of the
manufacturer and retail advertisers in Model
Boats will readily give a good picture of what is
If your priority is to get on the water with a
minimum of delay then RTR (Ready to Run)
might be the answer, the ‘Southampton’ tug
advertised by Howes Models being a good
example.
What can I do with a tug
model?
Well, it may seem obvious, but you can use it
for towing! Many tug towing events are held
around the country and abroad and current
information is available from various internet
forums such as www.modeltugforum.com as
well as the general model boating forums. A
very useful general guide to tug towing can be
viewed on the Mobile Marine Models website.
The following article by Terry Small
describes the construction of an appealing
Above: Modern tugs can have a variety of drive harbour tug model of moderate dimensions
configurations which provide an interesting practical using a MyHobbyStore plan and hull.
challenge for the modeller.

44 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 Did U Know ! All of our FULL Kits include Motors & Electric Lights

Tugging Ahead…………………………….. with

MOBILE MARINE MODELS

Model Tugnology……………………………..…………………………….. the driving force
The Boat Shed, Highcliffe Park, Ingham Cliff, Lincoln LN1 2YQ tel: 01522 730731 / 689209
 Smit Nederland
Terry Small builds this attractive and practical tug using
the plan and hull from MyHobbyStore
History
This class of Harbour/Coastal tugs are or
were all owned by Dutch towing and salvage
company Smit International during the eighties,
most have now been sold on or scrapped.
Their class definition would suggest they were
all used basically for harbour and coastal
areas, however when one considers that the
harbour they operate in is the Rotterdam docks
network, one can see that there is enough
work to keep them busy without venturing too
far out to sea.
The fleet names were as follows: Smit
Rusland, Smit Finland, Smit Irland, Smit
Danmark, Smit Sveland, Smit Nederland and
Smit England of course.
Hull and Plan
Building a model from a kit of parts is one of the
quickest and easiest ways to get started in this
hobby where most of if not all of the building
materials are in the one box but this can be
expensive or perhaps not as challenging as
a scratch or semi kit project. I decided to go
a different route spurred on by a super front
cover colour picture on the February 1988
issue of Model Boats. The free plan and build
article spread over 3 months, together with a
separately available styrene hull made it even
more appealing as a project and both plan and
hull are still available today, Photo 1. For me
the 70s to the start of the 90s was the golden
period of plan, hull and build articles especially
46 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
from David Metcalf who I consider has played 0.75, 1, 1.5 and 2mm thicknesses. For motor
a very important part in our hobby with his power I have used two 6 volt Monoperm Super
many excellent articles and plans on various motors, not cheap anymore, the equivalent
working vessels for us to enjoy. This small size now would be 385 type 5 pole motors,
tug model, some 22 inches (560mm) in length easily available and a lot less expensive. Both
is a perfect size to handle and transport with motors are connected to two 150mm long M4
excellent running characteristics and looks to thread prop shafts turning two 4 blade 45mm
match. When I purchased the hull one could diameter handed propellers. These were all
also obtain the bulwark moulding shown in purchased from Westbourne Models. Outside
the pictures which is now no longer available. the hull I made two prop shaft supports from
This can still be easily constructed using the short lengths of brass tube the inner diameter
time honoured way of bending a piece of card of which needs to be able to slide over the
around the hull at deck level to make up a outer diameter of the prop shaft tube, ideally
template then transferring it to styrene plastic. a slight friction fit, Photo 2. The flat stay is a
50mm long by 8mm wide 2.5mm thick brass
Construction Begins
The first task after purchasing the styrene hull
is to construct a suitable stand to hold the 1
model securely during construction. To obtain
the hull shape to cut the stand ends I always
use a profile gauge available from good DIY
shops, transferring the shape to cardboard as
a check before finally drawing on 8mm thick
plywood for cutting. When building a model
from a hull or plan, due thought should be
given as to what materials to use and where
to purchase them. For me, styrene is the best
medium, it’s easy to cut, shape and glue with a
smooth finish ready to paint. Unlike wood there
is no grain to fill although some parts of the
model may still need to be timber. Good model
shops can supply styrene in various sizes
and thicknesses. For this model I have used
www.modelboats.co.uk
 SMIT NEDERLAND

flat all soft soldered together as required. The

plan shows two Becker type rudders which 2
at first looked complicated to construct.
Alternatively, after a little catalogue viewing,
I found Marx produced plastic ones which I
could make fit with a little modification, Photo
3. Currently Graupner produce an equivalent
NR2367, slightly smaller but which can be
modified or used as is, Photo 4. As another
option steerable Kort nozzles could be made
from 50mm plastic waste pipe to improve
manoeuvrability. Both rudders required
spacing blocks to be made by laminating two
5mm thick styrene pieces together to make
one block (two required) and filed/sanded to
shape, Photo 5. I always find it better to first
dry fit all the running gear in position; that’s
where you use no glue, just hold all parts in
position using tape 3
or Blu-tack making
sure everything fits and looks perfect before
gluing. At the bow there are two anchor 4
recess boxes to make from small shapes
of styrene and glue in position. These are
simple to construct as long as you make sure
to get the angles correct for which I use a
small engineer’s bevel gauge purchased from clear.
Squires tools. You will notice from the photos To obtain an accurately shaped deck I first
that when I use epoxy glue I try to restrict its made a cardboard template, transferring the
flow by keeping it around the required gluing required shape to styrene allowing it to overlap
area with the use of a small section of plastic slightly at the edges for trimming. A ledge
tube or masking tape to build up a small wall using 2 layers of 2.5x4mm wide thick styrene
type mould, Photo 6. The deck was cut from strip creating a piece 5mm x 4mm was glued
1.5mm styrene supported by strategically around the inside of the hull 1.5mm (thickness
placed H section cross beams to strengthen of the deck styrene) lower than the top edge.
it whilst leaving the two large deck openings I then glued the deck to the hull with styrene
glue of the tube variety whilst held down with
tape until cured making sure that there was
5 no twisting in the assembly. As stated earlier,
the bulwark upright was originally a separate
moulding requiring cutting out and trimming the plan and marking out. Care needs to be
to shape and gluing in position. This is no taken as the moulding is thin in places but
longer available so it is necessary to produce not too thin to cause any major problems.
card templates, offering them into position and The six panama ports were produced using
trimming until the correct shape and angle to metal eyelets of three different sizes slightly
the hull is achieved. The final shapes can then squashed in the vice which were purchased
be transferred to 1mm styrene. Patience is very from Squires Tools. Over the years I have found
much a virtue when carrying out this process! many different uses for these on all types of
Various openings in the bulwarks were drilled models for wash ports, port holes and anchor
and cut out, first correctly measuring from chain deck surrounds as well as using them

6 7

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 47

 8 10
9 11
for the purpose they were designed for. After
the long wash port slots or scuppers were
shaped I then glued in a surround of 2.2mm
wide x .75mm thick Evergreen styrene strip
as a finished raised rim edge, Photo 7. The
bulwark uprights are all from 1mm styrene,
each one placed in position and trimmed to a
perfect fit, a long fiddly job. For the top bulwark
capping rail Evergreen 1mm thick x 3.5mm
wide strip was used. The rubbing strake,
fender or bumper as some would call it, that
goes all around the outside of the hull at deck
level is from 6mm x 3mm styrene strip which
is also used for each individual vertical strip to
represent the fender as seen on the original full
size tug.
Superstructure and
Wheelhouse
The plan contains all the templates needed for
each superstructure panel, Photo 8, including
the wheel house. I decided not to cut straight
from the plan but photocopy it thus preserving
my magazine collection. Photocopying can
cause size changes so making sure all is well
by double checking with the original plan
is very important. 1mm thick styrene was
used for all side panels. The bridge deck and
lower superstructure former was from 1.5mm
styrene. I decided to start with the wheelhouse
panels where there are some 28 openings
for windows and doors to cut out and shape,
Photo 9. During this process I started to get a
picture in my mind on how it all goes together.
48 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
I always use a Stanley knife with a new blade
fitted, a straight edge for clean straight cuts 12
and an all important cutting mat. When gluing
all the panels together I always try to construct
on a glass sheet for a perfectly flat surface;
also I use various metal blocks and squares
to assist in achieving square angles where
needed. Care is needed to cut out the section
for mounting the jackstaff (flag pole to you and
I). The lower former is used this one is slightly
bigger than the deck one to allow the structure
to splay out slightly at the bottom to help with
construction (see Photo 21). These had to
be cut out using 1.5mm thick styrene. Liquid
Styrene solvent glue is used. I prefer the EMA
Plastic Weld type applied with a fine brush
sparingly enough to weld the edges together
as too much will deform the styrene. Once
complete, all joints were filled using Humbrol
Fine Model Filler which dries within half an hour
ready to sand back using fine abrasive paper.
The corners of the openings all have to be filed I found most enjoyable. Small shapes like old
with slight radius with the use of a fine small pen tops cut down can be used, dress making
round file leaving enough material after cutting pins for hand controls etc. Photo 11.
the waste area to achieve this. All the angles The wood sliding doors are thin scale veneer
of each panel actually just fall into place during cut to 3mm wide planks mounted on a door
construction with a little chamfering of the shaped template from 0.5mm styrene and they
edges, Photo 10. actually slide in U shaped styrene track. The
silver handles again are cut down pin heads
Wheelhouse Detail as used to hold new shirts in their packaging;
Information is given on the plan for a basic nothing goes to waste! The figures were
internal control panel, chart table, seat and purchased from Model Slipway. The seated
heater detail, all achieved by using off cuts of figure between the funnels is from Caldercraft,
styrene, imagination and inventiveness which Photo 12.
www.modelboats.co.uk

13
14
Funnels
These are of box like construction using 1mm
thick styrene, Photo 13 noting that both
lean inwards slightly to the centre of the boat
looking forward. Using the templates and
general arrangement drawings made the task
straightforward. My deviation was to add two
more formers inside each funnel structure
equally spaced for strength. The platform
between them also holds up the main mast so
I decided to glue in place, hidden from view,
two platform cross beams along with a styrene
block and pin underside which passes centrally
through the platform that will eventually secure
the mast tube base. The two smoke exhaust
outlets are small lengths of styrene tube with
1mm thick open styrene round lids shown in an
open position as would the real ones when the
tug is underway. I find cutting round discs using
a hole punch as used in leather production
works very well. All the corners have a slight
radius sanded in.
Window Glazing
The glazing was one of those jobs I had been
delaying knowing it would not be an easy task
as time and care needed to be taken, so the
time had to be right. A sheet of clear styrene
0.75mm thick was purchased with both sides
having a protective film. All wheelhouse window
shapes are provided. The actual window frame
caused me some deep thinking, do I paint
freehand or mask off? Neither seemed a good
method for accuracy.
www.modelboats.co.uk
15
16
The usual Terry experimental session was
carried out where I found by covering each
clear styrene window face with low tack
masking tape I could then draw, using an extra
fine pencil, the frame shape including the round
corners. Then with a very steady hand holding
a sharp pointed scalpel knife, I followed the
drawn lines using gentle pressure enough to
get a continuous scribed line, the idea being
that the scored shape not only becomes the
frame but also acts as the paint up to line mark.
On applying the paint using a small sable bush
the paint just flowed up to it by capillary action,
Photo 14.
I did experiment with masking tape but had
problems with bleed underside, this is where
the paint seeps under the tape leaving fine
streak marks to what would have been a clean
straight line, also it was too fiddly. Once all
were complete each window was then glued
in place using a very thin smear of Evo-Stik
contact glue.
Name and Logo
For the ship name letters I used 8mm high
Letraset. A much better modern day alternative
is rub on lettering from BECC, www.becc.
co.uk who also can supply an A4 size sheet
with differing sizes of the yellow with blue back
ground SMIT Logo which are self adhesive and
just need cutting out an applying. When I built
my model these were not available so I had to
trace the original shape art work and transfer
then cut from yellow electrical PVC tape, a very
SMIT NEDERLAND
rewarding job but since replaced by BECC
ones, Photo 15. The blue and yellow tape is
car pin striping tape from Halfords motor parts
suppliers.
Main Towing Winch
This was a pure delight to make where I
needed to study the different views on the
plan along with the photos in the magazine of
the real article, adding a little detail here and
there. I decided to construct the drum section
by cutting the two round end plates using a
modeller’s compass cutter then gluing one
either side of a small length of 19mm diameter
electrical plastic conduit tube purchased from a
DIY store with plenty left over for future projects.
Next I added the braces and brake shoe drum
detail from 0.75mm thick styrene whereupon
it started to come to life. The two end boxes
are made from 1mm styrene with small internal
bracing. When building box like items I always
try to drill a small vent hole in a concealed
place. On small scale models you have to
decide how much extra detail to add without
making it look too cluttered but this is an area
where small off cuts of 1, 1.5 & 2mm thick
styrene can be used to the full. The capstan at
one end I turned in a small wood lathe from a
large diameter small length of dowel or, to put it
officially, a Broom Handle section. The tow wire
traveller and arm which would run across the
front of the winch from side to side guiding the
stowage of the tow wire neatly on to the drum
together with the anti-racking bars were made
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 49
 17
19
from round styrene with a simulated thread on
the centre traveller using saw cuts and a small
knife edge file. The turn handle was purchased
from SHG Model Supplies at one of the many
shows they attend, always worth a visit. Photo
16. The anchor winch also shown in the photo
was turned from 4 sections of 15mm diameter
dowel, the centre section all from styrene,
Photo 17. To represent the wire tow hawser I
tightly twisted cord wrapped around the drum
then painted it with a mix of silver, grey with a
hint of black Humbrol enamel paint, Photo 18.
Railings
The beauty of this model is that there are
not too many railings or complex bends to
produce. Stanchions are of the three ball type
although David Metcalf’s prototype model
showed 2 ball ones as that was all he had
at that time. I decided to fit the correct 3 ball
type and purchased readily available ones
from the Billings range of brass fittings. Each
stanchion position was marked out on the
styrene, copying from the plan using dividers.
Drilling each mounting hole I always use a drill
bit slightly smaller than the stanchion base pin
to achieve a snug fit. It is very important when
drilling the hole to make sure the drill bit is at
90 degrees to the deck, there is nothing worse
on a model to see stanchions all standing up
at different angles. Brass wire of the correct
diameter is then threaded through each
stanchion for the hand rails bending where
required then gluing or soldering to secure.
Soldering on the model must be done with
50 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
18
great care not to melt the styrene, I always
use metal clips strategically placed to act as a 20
heat sink to draw or should I say absorb the
heat away from nearby items whilst keeping it
where required. On the port side steps where
the handrail goes down at an angle I have
used a small length of brass wire to represent
small stanchions which I think works very
well, Photo 19. Once complete I removed the
whole stanchion structure for cleaning off any
flux residue ready for painting. The side ladder
going up to the wheelhouse roof is from Robbe
NR1425 9mm wide made from brass. An
equivalent ladder manufactured by Plastruct
could be used instead.
Mast
Tug masts can vary from highly complex
structures to very simple. Luckily this one was
very simple. The lower section is from 3mm
outside diameter (OD) brass tube followed by
2mm OD section with the final top section from the tube in a good hand vice making sure the
1mm rod all soldered at the correct spacing. hole when drilled will be perfectly vertical at 90
I would mention that both the plan and text degrees angle, not easy to explain but I hope
in the magazine stated 5mm which I found you get the picture. As I lower the rotating drill
looked slightly over scale once on the model bit down on to the location mark of the required
so I decided to use the plan diameter as a hole I let the drill bit end just gently kiss the
guide. The three light brackets were formed marked surface to inscribe a mark, occasionally
from 1mm diameter brass rod bent as per applying slight pressure thus making the first
plan, Photo 20. The intervals on the mast guide centre mark, stopping the drill bit drifting
tube where each light bracket sits have to be to continue and then complete the hole. Not
marked out centrally and then drilled out gently easy but it works for me. All was then dry
using a 1mm sharp, ideally new, drill. Drilling assembled to confirm fit before moving on to
holes in a tube is not easy especially when it soldering together and yes, super gluing will
is narrow. I always use a pillar drill First mount work instead although not as strong. Mast light
www.modelboats.co.uk
 SMIT NEDERLAND

brackets were all made from styrene glued

on. The lights are all small brass Billings fittings
which could actually be made using 3mm
diameter styrene tube. The front superstructure
bell is also Billings.

Fittings
When contemplating this type of model
construction you have to either make your
own fittings from suitable materials or if it’s of
a certain scale then commercial fittings can
be sourced or modified as I have done for
convenience. Admittedly this can be expensive
and detracts from making all yourself. When
I am at the start of a project I list what I may
need weeks in advance, picking up items
at various shows up and down the country.
What I could not purchase I have made such
as the vents on the funnels using 0.75mm
thick plasticard. Grills at the rear of the lower
superstructure seen just above the winch are
from 1.5mm thick styrene rectangles then
marking on the face equally spaced lines
following which I could then file horizontal
lines using a knife edge file, Photo 21. All
the bollards are from cut to size Evergreen
tube except for the towing bollard, this was
constructed using an old plastic knitting needle,
a great material to work with and when seen
at boot sales in various sizes, cheap as well.
The anchor winch drums are again turned
dowel but with a little ingenuity, the right size
and shape wooden ball type drawer knobs
21 can be cut down, especially the lower section,
with a little final shaping to get what you need.
Despite its The small silver painted anodes are shaped
diminutive from small lengths of half round styrene and
glued in place during construction. In reality
size, Smit all vessels would have these Sacrificial Zinc
Nederland anodes to protect against corrosion, Photo
packs in lots of 22. Finding suitable lifebuoys/belts posed a
authentic and slight problem as they were either oversize or
interesting just looked too chunky. I decided to make my
detail. own simply by buying 2 packets of Polo’s yes
you read correctly and sucking on each on until
I achieved a total of six the same size! Not an
easy task but someone had to do it. (A method
patented by Dave Abbott – Ed). The two
anchors are from the Amati range of fittings.
The radar was from Robbe’s range. Binnacle

22 23

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 51

 SMIT NEDERLAND
24
26
was from Billing and spotlight from Model
Slipway, Photo 23.
Painting
This followed my usual method of mounting all
the fittings requiring the same paint colour onto
scrap wood. The first spray coat used Halfords
grey, red or white primer depending on the top
main colour to be used. After this initial coat
any blemishes can be seen and rectified. The
hull was masked off using low tack Tamiya
Masking tape, Photo 24. Satin black was used
for the top of the hull, red oxide below waterline
with Appliance White for all superstructure and
wheelhouse. For the funnels I could only find
Humbrol matt blue 109 as the nearest match,
this was then thinned using 50% Humbrol
thinners and applied using my trusted badger
150 airbrush. Humbrol deck green 88 was
used for all decks applied with 2 sizes of
brushes followed by a final all over protective
coat of Humbrol satin varnish applied by
airbrush using a medium needle. All other detail
was picked out with the use of various tinlet
paints applied with appropriate size brushes.
Radio Control
I decided on individual speed control of each
motor for best control, manoeuvrability and
handling. At that time Hitec made a small
52 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
25
electronic speed controller model SP610 gold
in colour at a very reasonable price which
was ideally suited to the motors I was using.
Two were purchased and installed under
the receiver tray Photo 24. Equivalents now
would be the Mtroniks Viper Marine 15, much
smaller and very efficient. For power I elected
to use a 6 volt 4 Ah sealed lead acid battery
placed centrally down the middle of the hull.
A receiver 4 cell pack installed at the stern
helped with the balance of the boat, Photo 25.
Another new feature at the time was a radio
set with digital trims, Hitec Flash 4 technology
now commonplace today. All charging points
including on/off switches are under the stern
and main superstructure access hatch covers
for easy access. The receiver aerial I ran around
the underside of the deck held in place with
small self adhesive wire clips. With time new
advances have come to the market place and
now I could add sound by using two Mtroniks
diesel engine sound units, weight permitting.
On The Water
Being a small well balanced model she
performed perfectly. Control from the two
Becker rudders allowed the boat to easily turn
in its own length. However with individual motor
control the rudders only need to be applied
for that extra hard turn, it even steers superbly
27
going backwards. (A modern mixer setup
would be a good alternative – Ed) After some
45minutes running time the battery started to
show signs of power loss. Once back at the
bank side the two 6 volt Monoperm Super
motors were not even hot, indicating to me that
the propellers and motors were well matched.
On our club water at Fishers Green a fellow
modeller brought down his Smit Rusland and
the two tugs looked quite realistic on the water
together, Photo 26. As they were the same
scale and a very manageable size we avoided
the usual aches and pains to our old bones
when lifting them out of the water, Photo 27.
Conclusion
Since building Smit Finland using the MHS
Hull and plan (Smit Nederland) I have built a
further 4 subjects from the Metcalf stable all
using MHS hull and plans all of which turned
out to be superb models where I could add as
much or as little detail as I wanted, choosing
the materials, making or purchasing the
fittings and most importantly being in control
of how I wanted to build the model. I did find
this method of construction better than kit
building and more satisfying. The step by step
construction article for Smit Nederland along
with various photos was invaluable; even with
only a little model building experience it can
be easily constructed from the plan. Buying a
pre made hull for me is the best starting block.
MHS have many plans and hulls to choose
from plus a range of material packs for selected
models. The full range can be viewed online at
www.myhobbystore.co.uk The order codes for
Smit Nederland are
Plans: MM1409 and Hull: HULMM1409.
www.modelboats.co.uk
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3. Use offer code ‘NRJ2013’ The Nautical Research Guild, 30 Water Street, PO Box 7, Cuba NY 14727 USA
 FREE PLAN FEATURE

SS Balboa
A simplified cargo tramp
steamer designed
by Glynn Guest

‘possible models’ file uncovered the idea

Editorial Introduction of a small cargo ship. This type of vessel
Since its introduction in 1990, Glynn’s SS Balboa plan has been a regular seller, being is not frequently chosen by modellers so
a simple but attractive model that can be built quickly at modest cost. As such we are it would at least be different. A little more
pleased to introduce it, together with Glynn’s building instructions, to a new generation of thought showed that extra interest could be
boat modellers who will appreciate the merits of this small but robust model. These days worked into the model by trying a couple
an appropriate power plant might be a low drain 385 type motor with a three blade 30mm of new ideas. This was enough to convert
propeller (35mm if geared down as suggested by Glynn). A 7.2 volt or 8.4 volt 3700mAh my modelling lethargy into activity. A couple
NiMH battery and a 10 amp speed controller would complete the power setup. of weeks later and the prototype was
undergoing sailing trials.

Building the right project
Ideas for new models are rarely a problem
but great care is needed to ensure that the
correct ones are built. It must happen to
most modellers at some time when the new
project, started with such enthusiasm, grinds
to a halt. I have never failed to complete a
model yet but one did have a gap of several
years in its construction!
The reasons why this should happen are
many, a new job, moving home, additions
to the family etc. will all stop the most
committed modeller. Some situations are
less easy to understand, in these cases
the reason might be the wrong choice of
subject. This need not be a case of an
over ambitious target; I suspect that many
modellers would grit their teeth and rise to
this type of challenge. The real cause might
be boredom!
This was brought home to me when I
just could not get started on a long cherished
warship project. Over some ten years I had
accumulated enough data to make a good
model. The hull design was drafted out,
even the wood purchased, but I simply
could not work up the commitment needed to
build another warship at that time.
It would have been fatal to make a half-
hearted start on this project, so something
quite different was needed to stimulate me.
A search through my embarrassingly large
Model Design
This is often the most frustrating yet
exciting stage of any modelling project.
You have the general idea but it takes
all your skill to produce a workable
design. The requirements of construction,
performance, maintenance and
appearance often seem to be totally
incompatible. There is little doubt that
experience is the best teacher, once you
have struggled to connect a rudder
linkage in some inaccessible space you learn
not to repeat the same mistake.
So, a lot of waste paper later and a
workable design was sketched out. A
scale of around 1/100 produced a compact
model about 24 inches (60cm) long. Balsa

54 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 SS BALBOA

sheet was to provide the hull structure. The

hull sides were to be sheeted with vertical 1
grain strips. This would use some of
those scrap pieces of wood which are too
small for major items but too large to
throw away.
The hull design was simplified, especially
at the stern. As this was below the
waterline, the sailing appearance was not
affected. The detachable superstructure was
inspired by the ‘Laker’ vessels. These were
small cargo ships built on the Great Lakes of
North America during the 1910’s and 20’s.
Their size was limited by the lock gates Photo 1 Main hull pars cut out – Stage 1
which permitted access between the Lakes
and the Atlantic. The First World War resulted 2
in a vast building programme for these handy
vessels.
The rest of the model was designed with
internal access in mind. The fore and aft
hatches were to be removable. This made
all but the extreme bow space available for
equipment, ballast, etc.
It is not a difficult task to alter this model’s Photo 2 Side elevation of basic hull structure, Stage 12
Fig 1
hull structure and create a different layout.
Changing the size and position of the settled the propulsion, now some means of
bulkheads can produce everything from a turning the model tightly was needed. First
flush decked hull to the classic three island thoughts were to install a small water pump
types. The length of the model can also be in the bows. By pumping water in through
adjusted by simply altering the hull bottom a hole in the hull side and out through one
and deck sheets. Figure 1 gives you a few on the opposite side, a turning effect could
ideas. be created. This idea was discarded when
it was realised that the inter nal
New Ideas installation would have been very cramped.
Whilst the structure of this model was It was not impossible to ‘shoehorn’
conventional, a couple of new ideas were everything inside the hull but pondside
tried in the propulsion and steering areas. repairs would have been a problem.
Ordinarily with a model of this size I
would have used one of the excellent Rudder
Monoperm motors (today’s equivalent would With a bow-thruster ruled out, this left only
be a low drain 385 type – Ed). I had none the rudder for steering. Whilst under
free at that time and could not justify the normal operation you rarely need to exceed
expense of a new motor so it was a case of a rudder angle of 30 to 40 degrees. Any
looking through the spare motor box. greater angle might turn the model a little
A few motors were tried out with tighter but can actually increase the time it
appropriate battery packs and speed takes to complete a turn. Some details of
controllers. Several motor-battery this effect were published in the May/June
combinations had a suitable top speed.This 87 issue of Radio Controlled Boat Modeller,
Going to larger angles, say 60 to 70 degrees,
3 can however be beneficial when manoeuvring
at low speed.

Fig 3

Photo 3 Top view of basic hull structure, Stage 12

Fig 2

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 55

 Fig 4 4

Photo 4 The propeller shaft is installed, Stage 12

Fig 5
5

One practical problem with such a large

rudder angle is the possibility of the rudder
going ‘over-centre’ and jamming. This has
happened to me when attempting astern
manoeuvres. The answer is simple, just use
a double sided tiller arm on the rudder shaft Photo 6 Motor mount and pulley drive to propeller shaft,
and two links to the servo, Fig. 2. Whenever Stage 14
the rudder is deflected one of the links
will be in tension. This prevents the rudder
from going over-centre. Some readers will
recognise this as the ‘closed-loop’ system,
6
widely used in aircraft, full size and model.
In fact because of the tension in the system
flexible linkages can be used.
One problem with large rudder angles is
that the water flow can break away from the
‘outer’ surface of the rudder, Fig. 3. This can
significantly reduce the turning force created
by the rudder. If a balanced rudder, where
the pivot line is some distance behind the
leading edge, is used then this might not be
a problem. The rudder area ahead of the pivot
can deflect most of the water flowing from
the propeller and so maximise the turning
force, Fig. 4.
This model, like most merchant
vessels, did not use a balanced rudder and
the pivot line was very close to the leading Photo 5 Sheeting of hull sides, stage 15
edge. It was tempting to use a semi-
balanced rudder but another idea emerged at then balsa might not be a good idea. investment. Never try to save a few
work. Whilst setting up a small recirculating If, like me, you can raid a scrap box for the pence by failing to change the blade
water tank, used to demonstrate the basics 1/8in. (3mm) side sheeting, then only a couple when it ceases to cut cleanly. The metal rule
of fluid flow to students, I was impressed of 1/4 by 4in. (6mm x 100mm) sheets might will enable straight cuts to be made in safety.
with the tenacity with which the water flow be needed. Do try to use medium grades Do try to make every cut by means of
could ‘stick’ to generously radiused bodies. of wood. Very soft or hard grades are an several light strokes rather than one heavy
This led to the idea of using a much thicker obvious liability. Another type of wood to avoid attempt. As to the cutting board, I have
than usual rudder section with a large radius is the ‘brittle’ sheets that sometimes appear found that hardboard is ideal. It supports the
at the leading edge. With luck this might in a model shop’s stock. These can crack work firmly yet does not blunt the blade tip
enable the water flow to ‘stick’ to the outer without warning when being bent; yes, a quickly. (many modellers these days will have
surface of the rudder even at large angles, lesson I had to learn the hard way! self healing cutting mats at their disposal –
Fig. 5. There were a few doubts such as the As for the glue, the prototype made use Ed)
effect of the turbulence in the water around of a fast drying wood adhesive. The model
the rudder but it seemed worth a try. was started in the winter months and building Construction sequence
indoors requires innocuous glues to avoid The best way to avoid problems might be
Building Tips domestic wrath. An exterior quality PVA to detail the building of this model as a
This model is quite straightforward to build. once sealed, or a waterproof Aliphatic type sequential list of stages. This can avoid
The use of balsa wood might worry some are the best options. having to juggle with too many pieces at
people but as long as you can make half-way Perhaps the secret of success is to once.
decent glued joints then the model ought to use a sharp blade, metal rule and a
be robust enough. Of course if your normal good cutting board. Modelling knives with 1. The first stage is to cut the hull structural
sailing involves a large number of collisions replaceable blades are a sound pieces from 1/4in. (6mm) sheet. Note that

56 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk


7 hull bottom sheet.
Photo 7 Hull sheeting complete and drying, Stage 15
8 best time to fit the propeller and rudder
Photo 8 Side sheeting trimmed and sanded, Stage 17
9 Check that the leading edge of the rudder
Photo 9 Underside of stern section, Stage 15
the plans only show one half of the hull
deck and bottom pieces. As they are
symmetrical, it is possible to cut out one
side then use the off cuts to make the other
side identical, Fig. 6.
2. Check the fit of these parts. Anything
noticeably out of size or shape should be
replaced now rather than after it is firmly
glued in place.
3. Glue the transverse 1/4in. (6mm) square
deck support strips across bulkheads Bl,
B2 and B3. These are to support the deck
pieces.
4. The ‘V’ shaped sheeting support piece
is glued to the underside of the stern
www.modelboats.co.uk
Fig 6
bottom sheet. It should align with the ‘V’
cut-out in the bottom sheet, Fig. 7.
5. The stem piece, B1, B2 and B3 are glued
to the hull bottom sheet. Ensure that they
are square then pin in place. Leave until the
glue is firm.
6. Glue the forecastle, main and bridge
deck sections to the bulkheads and stem
piece.
7. The propeller tube support block is
laminated from scrap balsa. It is then
carved to a triangular shape to match
the rear of the bottom sheet. Laminating
this block avoids having to drill a hole through
it for the tube.
SS BALBOA
8. The support block should be glued to the
9. The stern bottom sheet is then glued
between B3 and the support block.
10. The stern piece is glued to the bottom
sheet.
11. The quarter deck is then glued between
the support strip on B3 and the stern piece.
12. When the glue has fully hardened, all
the edges of the hull structure should be
sanded smooth. This enables the side
sheeting to fit flush and produce a strong
joint. A sanding block is by far the best
way to do this. A fair bit of material has to be
sanded off the main deck sheet due to the
taper in B1.
13. With the hull sides absent, this is the
tubes. My model used a spare propeller
unit from an old kit model. Both tubes need
to be well secured into the hull structure.
will clear the propeller.
14. Direct drive between motor and
propeller shafts was initially considered but
rejected on account of the space it wasted
inside the hull. A much more compact
installation could be achieved with a pulley
drive system. This allowed the motor to be
clamped between two balsa blocks by an
aluminium strap.
15. The hull sides are then covered with
slightly oversize balsa sheets. The grain must
run vertically so as to accommodate the
curves in the bow and stern. Start from the
middle of the hull and work towards the
bow and stern by sheeting both sides at
once. This will avoid the risk of distorting
the hull structure.
16. Only when the glue has set should
the excess side sheeting be carefully
trimmed off with a sharp modelling knife. Do
remember to move the blade away from
your body when cutting!
17. The junction between the side sheeting
and the deck/bottom can then be sanded
square. After this the triangular fillets
between the sheeting and the stern bottom
sheet are glued in place. These fillets
strengthen the model and smooth out the
hull a little.
18. The bows are capped with a suitable
strip of wood. I used a scrap piece of pine
but anything, even hard balsa, will do.
19. When the glue has set the whole hull
must be sanded. The bow strip needed
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 57
blending into the hull shape. The deck-
side junctions must be sharp and square
but the lower edges of the hull need to be
rounded. Do not overdo it and sand all the
side sheeting away. Any gaps and defects
can be filled; I use a tube of ready mixed
domestic filler for this job.
Rudder
A ‘flat’ rudder can simply be cut out of
metal sheet then fixed to the rudder shaft.
The ‘thick’ rudder section I intended to
experiment with could not be made this way.
The easiest method seemed to be laminating
the rudder from two sheets of 1/4in. (6mm)
thick balsa with the shaft sandwiched
between them. To stop the shaft from
rotating, its lower end was bent over at right
angles, Fig. 8. The rudder was then sanded
to a streamlined section, Fig. 9. A strip of
thin aluminium was stuck around the balsa
to produce a smooth surface. The top and
bottom edges were sealed with dope.
Surface Sealing
Now is the time to think about
preparing the surface prior to painting. The
decks were covered with light-weight model
aircraft tissue, slightly oversize pieces being
stuck down with clear dope. The excess
along the edges can easily be removed
when dry by cutting or sanding.
The hull sides were to be covered with thin
card above the water-line. By extending this
card above the deck level the bulwarks could
be created. The ‘in and out’ effect of steel
plating was simulated by gluing longitudinal
strips of card along the sides. A contact
Fig 7
Fig 8
Fig 8
58 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
adhesive is perhaps best for this job but,
beware of any fumes from the solvent! The
coamings around each hull opening were
also made from card.
After trimming the bulwarks to the correct
top edge and cutting the freeing ports, the
hull surface is sealed. I used several coats
of thinned cellulose dope, sanding between
each coat. This is a fairly quick but smelly
method so do not use dope indoors. Thinned
primer could be used as an alternative. (Water
based finishing resins are now another
alternative such as Eze Cote from DeLuxe
materials – Ed)
Superstructure and Hatches
These are made to be a close fit over their
coamings. This is easily done by building
them over the coamings, provided you can
avoid sticking them to the hull! Balsa and card
were used for these structures. The pieces cut
out from the deck are ideal as they should
match the openings perfectly. The plans
ought to give sufficient information but feel
free to change things if you wish.
The funnel was made from a convenient
aluminium tube. Not only were the length
and diameter just right but the open end had
a nicely radiused edge. Alternatively a funnel
could always be rolled up from card.
Painting
Now is a good time to paint the model. If
you leave it until the small details have
been added then painting can become Painting
very difficult. The following colour scheme Hull sides Black (No. 21)
was used on the prototype, the appropriate Hull bottom Dark Red, 3 parts crimson (
Humbrol paint numbers are also given: No. 20) 1 part black (No. 21)
Steel Decks Grey (No. 27)
Superstructure White (No. 34)
Bridge Decks Bleached Teak (No. HN4)
Bridge Bulwarks Brown (No. 26)
Funnel Matt Black (No. 33)
Hatches Grey (No. 27)
Hatch Covers Green (No. 88)
Fig 9
Photo 10 Underside of hull at Stage 19
10
www.modelboats.co.uk

11
Photo 11Underside of stern, note triangular fillets
between side sheeting and bottom sheet
Gloss paints were used on the hull for
toughness with matt paints elsewhere. To
avoid the unrealistic contrast between these
paints I sprayed the hull with a clear ‘Satin’
varnish. This was another experiment for me
and proved to be successful as the model
avoids being too shiny or too dull.
Simulation was the name of the game
when it came to a couple of features.
Planking was suggested on the bridge
decks and bulwarks with thin black
lines. Nothing too clever, just used a ball
point pen and rule! The portholes in the
superstructure were ‘blobs’ of gloss
www.modelboats.co.uk
Balboa looks quite stately afloat.
12
Photo 12 Hull sides plated with card and sealed
black paint. These can easily be made by
dipping the tip of a suitable piece of
dowel onto the surface of the paint.
When the paint laden dowel is touched onto
the model, a circular spot should be made.
A little practice is needed to obtain a regular
size and shape of ‘porthole’.
Small Details
Most of the bits and pieces that bring a
model to life came from the scrap box.
Winches used plastic sheet, tubes and
washers to create the desired shapes. Masts
and booms came from aluminium tubing.
SS BALBOA
Cowl vents can be a problem and often end
up being purchased items. I experimented
with making them from metal tubing with
washers being stuck to the top. An epoxy
filler was then moulded into the rounded top
section. A smooth edge to the vent opening
was produced with a ring of solder. The final
result was far from perfect but gave the right
impression and cost very little.
The four lifeboats were just carved from
balsa scrap. I have always admired modellers
who can leave their lifeboats open. Mine
have to have a canvas cover painted over
them. Wire, bent to shape, was used for the
davits. These can be vulnerable items on
working models and need securely gluing to
the underside of the deck.
The only items that defeated me were the
ladders to the bridge. Nothing suitable in
the scrap box and no time to build them so
it was off to a local model shop. Luckily they
had some 00 gauge model railway items that
would match the model.
R/C Installation
The internal equipment installation was totally
conventional. The receiver and its battery pack
went into the first compartment. These items
were fitted into cut-outs made into a foam
plastic block. The drive battery would just fit
through the access hatch and sat next to B2.
A strip of balsa and some scraps of foam
plastic were used to hold the battery firmly in
place. The servo controlling the motor speed
neatly slid alongside the motor.
The rudder servo went under the rear
access hatch. Two transverse strips of 1/4in.
(6mm) balsa were used to secure the servo
in place. A little careful wire bending and
cutting made the servo-tiller linkages.
A couple of holes had to be cut through
B2 and B3 for the servo leads. If placed
correctly they can ensure a neat and tidy
installation. Do not make them any
larger than is needed for the servo plugs.
The final item was the receiver aerial. I always
try to use a vertical whip type made from
thin wire. A wire length of 12-15 inches (300-
400mm) is adequate on this type of small
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 59

Fig 10
13
Photo 13 Start of painting and superstructure partly built
14
Photo 14 Motor installation
scale model. A brass tube was used on the
prototype to hold the detachable wire. It was
connected to the receiver aerial wire with a
flying lead and plug-socket, Fig. 10. The total
length of the aerial system must be the same
as the original flexible wire. For the sake of
safety, the top of the wire must be bent into
a loop. (The foregoing comments about the
aerial only apply if 40Mhz of 27Mhz R/C gear
is used. 2.4Ghz radio with its much smaller
internally mounted aerials is more common
practice these days – Ed)
Sailing Checks
Before going anywhere near the water the
model will need the propeller and rudder
tubes lubricating. I was very surprised just
how much ballast it needed to float
on the designed water-line. Pieces of
lead were added through the bow and stern
60 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
access hatches. Their position on the hull
bottom was then adjusted to get the correct
trim. To avoid the trim changing the ballast
must be stuck in place. I usually use balsa
cement for this task. It is quick drying and
whilst it holds the ballast firmly, the glue can
be broken if desired at a later time. The final
sailing weight came to a little over 5 pounds
(2.5kg).
The ballasting trials uncovered a minor leak
in the rear compartment. It was one of those
annoying ones that are too large to ignore
but too small to locate easily. It appeared
to come from around the propeller tube
support block. Whilst drying out the model
I pondered what to do. In the end some
‘Finnigan’s Hammerite’, a thick cellulose
based paint was poured into the offending
part of the hull. Careful work with a brush
ensured that the suspect area was
coated. Then the hull was suspended bows
upwards to ensure the paint stayed in place.
My original hope was that the paint would
just provide a waterproof barrier on the
inside of the wood. This would not have
stopped the water soaking into the balsa
though. A couple of hours close examination
of the model showed that a little of the paint
had flowed through and sealed a hairline
crack around the propeller tube and so
produced a proper seal. Another unexpected
but useful discovery.
Sailing Trials
The maiden voyage was carried out when
my club hired an indoor swimming pool at a
local school. In some ways an ideal place to
test any new model, provided you can keep
out of the way of other models!
The first radio outfit installed had dual
rates. This enabled me to set the rudder
throw between 30 and 70 degrees either side
of neutral by operating the rate switch.
The first thing noticed was the modest
top speed of about 1.5 feet/sec (0.5m/sec).
Compared to warship models this did initially
seem to be very slow. On reflection it was
just right for this model. The total speed
range was perfect; at the slowest motor
speed the model was barely moving but the
rudder still had control.
Sailing at all speeds showed that the
model would not hold a steady course for
long. With the relatively blunt bows of this
hull I was not surprised. In practice the
deviation in heading was a slow and minor
effect and easily controlled with minor
rudder commands. It might seem that this
characteristic is a drawback when sailing,
in fact the opposite seems to be the case.
It forces you to be aware of where the
model is and what it is doing at all times.
The actual rudder corrections become
automatic after a short while but you never
‘lose’ the model whilst sailing. Excellent
practice for steering events.
Sailing astern proved to be a problem.
The model could initially be made to move
in a straight line but once the stern started to
swing, the rudder could not correct it. This
is no problem with the simple manoeuvre of
backing between two buoys. More complex
tasks require more care. My model always
swings to starboard when going astern.
With a little thought this effect can often be
put to good use.
The performance of the thick rudder was
investigated in this first sailing session. On
the reduced setting of 30 degrees maximum
throw the model sailed in a positive and
predictable fashion at all speeds. Maximum
rudder produced a turning circle of about
7 feet (2m) in diameter. This was in line
with a c o n v e n t i o n a l ‘ t h i n ’ r u d d e r s
performance.
With increased rudder travel the model
became much more sensitive and a little
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Balboa really captures the essence of the old tramp steamers.
15
Photo 15 The model opened up to show internal layout of equipment
harder to steer smoothly at first. It was not
too hard to adjust my sailing technique
to avoid over-controlling the model.
Maximum rudder produced a turning circle
of a mere 4 feet (1.2m) diameter. In fact the
model appeared to rotate about a point just aft
of the bows!
Problems
The whole idea of sailing trials is to uncover
problems that no amount of testing at home
can uncover. In this model the poor fit of
the propeller shaft and tube allowed all the
lubricating oil to leak out. The propeller was
carefully adjusted so that it gently pressed,
via a metal washer, onto the end of the tube
when moving ahead. This seems to have
reduced the rate of oil loss to an
acceptable level.
The poor shaft-tube fit and a heavy out
of balance metal propeller results in a noisy
www.modelboats.co.uk
vibration at full speed. Whilst not a ‘scale’
sound, it does add a little to the character
of the model. It can sometimes fool people
into thinking that I have used one of those
electronic engine sound simulators, if only they
knew the truth!
Further Sailing
The model has been sailed outdoors in
some quite rough conditions. Since it was
blustery enough to get a little water over the
bulwarks I expected some control problems.
In fact the relatively large mass of the model
gives it enough inertia to resist the action
of wind and wave to a surprising degree.
Likewise the modest power of the model
is no embarrassment since the model is not
easily disturbed.
After a little practice I found that it was easy
to perform 90 degree turns in very tight
spaces. With the bows a mere 12 inches
SS BALBOA
(30cm) from the obstacle you run the motor
astern. As soon as the model starts to move
astern you switch to full ahead and rudder.
The inertia of the model means that the stern
has started to swing significantly before the
model starts to move forwards and should
clear the obstacle. If you try this manoeuvre
then practice in some clear area first!
Conclusions
The idea of using a 540 motor on a 2 volt
supply has proven successful. The range
of speeds with a simple resistance board
is ideal for this type of model. As to the
duration it could be over two hours. My
sailing stamina tends to run out after an hour.
The ‘thick’ rudder section has not shown
any great advantage yet. For general sailing a
flat’ rudder might be just as effective. There
are still a few ideas to try so I might get it to
rotate on the spot.
The real success of the model is that it
quickly revived my modelling interest. Now I
am all fired up to tackle that warship project,
the only trouble is all the decorating my wife
wants me to do!
Afterword
Glynn very kindly retrieved Balboa from
long term storage in his loft for the on the
water photos and the model looks just
as smart and attractive as ever despite
the passage of almost a quarter of a
century. He reported that it still goes
pretty well too!
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 61
 Above: HMS Warspite built by Colin Vass to 1/72

Warships scale is among the ultimate battleship models.

There are many working features; the guns train,
elevate and fire while the ship’s motor boats are
Colin Bishop takes a look at this popular modelling subject separate R/C controlled models.

Editorial introduction
I would guess that probably 50% of the models I see at shows and regattas fall into the warship category. And for good reason. Warships
have always been popular modelling subjects right back to the days when clockwork driven tin toy battleships began to be manufactured
around the turn of the 20th Century.
For the modeller, warships offer an almost limitless choice of subjects in both size and type with the only common characteristics being
that the majority warships are quite complex and most of them are painted grey!
In this article we will be looking at some of the different types of warships and the practical issues associated with modelling them so let’s
start at the top.

Large Warships –
Battleships, Cruisers,
Aircraft Carriers
Almost everyone likes major warships as their
size gives them an impressive presence; they
bristle with weaponry and other detail and
always look great on the pond. However, if your
preference is for building at the popular scale
of 1/48 then battleships are probably not for
you. A 700 foot ship will come out at around
14.5 feet long (4.4m) with a beam of over 2
feet (0.6m). You may be able to get it across
the back seat of your car but you will need to
leave both doors open! Some people have got
over this slight difficulty by building their model
in sections which bolt together at the pondside
but this is not a common solution, especially
as the weight of the model means that several
people will be needed to launch and recover
it. More practical building scales for larger
warships include 1/150, 1/128 or 1/192, the
latter giving a length of around 42 inches or
just over 1 metre for your 700ft battleship. The
chosen scale will reflect the preference of the
builder and practical considerations in building
and sailing the model.
Whatever scale is settled on there will
inevitably be a considerable degree of
complexity entailed in reproducing a large
prototype with masses of detail, much of it
repetitive in terms of guns and other standard
items of equipment and all this adds up to
a lot of work. For those who find this a bit
daunting, but still want to build a ‘big’ warship
there are several options available. Firstly
there is a healthy market in commercial hulls
and fittings so if you choose the right scale
you can cut out a lot of the tedious work by
buying in what you need although this can be
an expensive exercise. Alternatively you could
opt to make a simplified ‘semi scale’ model
which at usual pondside viewing distances
can look remarkably effective as the photos of
Ashley Needham’s HMS Nelson elsewhere in
this issue demonstrate. Another increasingly
popular route is to embrace ‘plastic magic’
whereby one of the increasing range of large
plastic kits is adapted for radio control such
as the Trumpeter model of USS Arizona the
conversion of which has been previously been
featured in Model Boats. For those who want
to go the distance, Fleetscale sell hulls and
comprehensive fitting packs, including major
components such as gun turrets for a number
of major British and foreign warships at 1/128
scale.
Aircraft carriers can pose additional
problems in model form as their high freeboard
and flight deck can give rise to stability
problems. Deepening the underwater part of
the hull is one way to offset this and can be
done unobtrusively.
Destroyers and Frigates
The smaller ‘major’ warships make very popular
subjects as they offer an attractive combination

62 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk


This model of the Japanese battleship Fuso illustrates the complexity entailed in building a battleship model.
There are not very many battleship full kits on the market but HMS Magnificent from Deans Marine lives up to its name.
of larger scales, less complexity and a decent
turn of scale model speed. 1/96th is a very
common scale for these prototypes as it
produces a hull length of around 40 inches
(approx.1m) for a WW2 vintage destroyer
which is a handy size for an easily transportable
working model. For those who prefer something
a bit bigger plans and hulls at 1/72 scale are
available which would up the model size to
around 55 inches or around 1.4m.
A common mistake when building destroyer
type vessels is to overlook the stability issues.
If you have bought a kit then this is less likely
to be a problem as the manufacturer will have
ensured that the model will be stable if built
to the instructions. However, when scratch
building it is very easy to build in too much
hull and top weight without realising it. At best
the model will be very tender and roll a lot,
especially in a turn; at worst it won’t float the
right way up! Windage can also be a factor,
especially with some more modern designs
with high superstructures and watching your
carefully built model roll drunkenly around
the pond lurching from side to side can be
dispiriting to say the least. The designers of
www.modelboats.co.uk
full size ships encountered similar problems
but the solutions are often more complex than
for models where the golden rule is to keep
as much weight as possible low down in the
hull and build the superstructure as light as
possible. Things that can still catch people
out are using lead acid batteries in an upright
position (better to use cylindrical cells along the
bottom of the hull) and keeping an eye on the
weight of commercial fittings. Brass and resin
are both intrinsically quite dense and the latter
can often be bored out internally to save a bit of
weight – every little helps.
Another potential problem can arise if the
builder wishes to install working features such
as rotating turrets and elevating guns. This
is not really practical at 1/96 scale but more
feasible at 1/72 scale with a bigger model and
fewer mountings. Remember, if you reduce
the scale of a model, the dimensions reduce
by the square root but the internal volume (and
thereby the displacement) goes down by the
cube root which means that a relatively small
decrease in length will significantly reduce the
weight and carrying capacity of the hull. Of
course the opposite applies as well so going
WARSHIPS
HMS Warrior of 1860 is the oldest preserved ‘modern’
battleship and preserved at Portsmouth. William Mowll’s
book on building a model of her is still easy to find.
Converting a plastic kit makes a battleship a more
manageable subject. This is Dave Abbott’s conversion
of the Trumpeter USS Arizona kit.
up in scale will usually reduce the possibility of
stability problems and give you more scope to
introduce extra working features. This may all
seem rather obvious but many modellers do
seem to have trouble with this concept with
unfortunate effects upon their pride and joy.
Fast Patrol Craft
It is appropriate to look at these separately
as many of them are essentially boats rather
than ships and behave very differently on
the water. Popular examples for modelling
purposes are Motor Torpedo/Gun Boats
and Motor Launches such as the Fairmile
D. In the modelling world these are also
closely associated with other fast service
launches such as Air Sea Rescue Launches
and Seaplane Tenders which provide the
opportunity for more colourful paint schemes
than the ubiquitous naval grey. From the
modelling viewpoint these all provide the
excuse to build a speedboat, something that
appeals boat modellers of all ages.
A popular scale for this type of model is 1/24
which gives a manageable length of around
1m and a weight of perhaps 2-3kg depending
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 63
on the prototype. Deans Marine have several
examples in their kit range. This scale also gives
plenty of options for motor and battery setups
which give excellent performance but which
won’t break the bank. Unless you are building
from a prototype with a more modest top
speed such as a Fairmile Motor Launch then
physically larger models require significantly
more power and expense to drive them.
Traditionally, models of this type would have
been fitted with internal combustion diesel or
glow motors but restrictions on where i.c. boats
can be run, together with the excellent power
to weight ratios of modern electric motors,
especially brushless varieties matched with high
capacity lightweight LiPo batteries, mean that
electric power is usually the way to go.
Another option is to drop down a scale or
so to 1/32 which will give you a boat which is
cheaper to build and fit out but not so capable
of choppy water performance as a larger Cruisers tend to be relatively rare subjects for working models. Probably because in model form they combine much
model would be. of the complexity of a battleship with the stability issues of a destroyer!

HMS Belfast, preserved in the Pool of London, makes a good subject for a cruiser. A Aircraft carriers also make difficult working subjects due to top weight but Michael
GRP hull at 1/96 scale is available from Deans Marine and a range of fittings can be Higgott’s Ark Royal is a very successful example, seen here at Beale Park.
obtained from John Haynes whose 1/192 scale hull of the ship is also available from
Fleetscale.

Robin Lee of the Brentwood club with an impressive 1/48 scale gives a much bigger model as this superb example by Bob Maggs of the modified Black Swan class
build of the Deans Marine HMS Kelly kit at 1/96 scale. sloop HMS Starling demonstrates. Built on a Fleetscale hull, it features numerous working features and effects as
This scale is commonly used for destroyer size vessels. well as looking an absolute knockout on the pond.

64 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk


The slim lines of the WW2 vintage destroyer HMS Cavalier, preserved at
Chatham dockyard are very evident in this photo.
‘This is what I want my model to look like!’ RAF seaplane
tender ST 206 on her last voyage before going on static
display at the RAF Museum, Hendon. Plans are available
from Model Boats Plans Service ref: MAGM2041.
Some plastic kits make effective conversions
such as the Italeri Schnellboot S100 (popularly
known as the German ‘E’ Boat) to 1/35
scale at 1m long. Dave Abbott’s conversion
of this model was published in the Winter
2009 Special issue of Model Boats and his
subsequent conversion of the more recent
Italieri M.A.S Italian MTB, also to 1/35 scale,
appeared in the December 2012 issue.
Submarines
Submarines are a rather specialist area of boat
modelling with an emphasis upon engineering
as much as on modelling. They do hold a
tremendous fascination for many people.
There are three main types of submarine
model. Firstly there is the surface running
version which is not much different from
conventional models and does not submerge.
The big Revell Gato plastic kit is a favourite for
such conversions. If you want your submarine
to actually submerge then you have two
options, dynamic and static diving. With
dynamic diving the boat is trimmed to have
just a small amount of positive buoyancy to
keep it afloat on the surface when at rest with
the conning tower and top of the hull out of
the water. The hydroplanes are then used to
drive it underwater when moving forward and
thereafter control the depth of the model –
hence the description ‘dynamic’. The model
can be surfaced by setting the planes to up or
simply cutting the power so that its inherent
positive buoyancy reasserts itself.
Static diving is similar to full size practice
www.modelboats.co.uk
Dave Abbott’s conversion of the Italieri M.A.S. boat kit is
an excellent example of ‘Plastic Magic’.
The smooth exterior of a modern submarine model gives little hint of the complexity of its internal arrangements.
(Paul Freshney)
whereby the buoyancy of the boat is adjusted
from positive to negative causing it to sink after
which the hydroplanes can be used to ‘fly’ the
model while submerged. However, a failsafe
is needed to restore buoyancy should power
fail. Buoyancy adjustments employ different
methods to take on and expel water ballast
but a common system used in Europe uses a
piston in a large diameter tube within the hull.
Compressing the air in the piston allows water
to enter and reduces the buoyancy provided
by the air and the vessel submerges. Reversing
the piston increases the air volume and forces
water out restoring buoyancy. All this does
require precision engineering and electronics
and commercial units are available to do the
job. Many modellers enjoy the challenge posed
by constructing a static diving submarine
together with the various refinements that can
be incorporated to enhance performance and
operation.
WARSHIPS
Today’s destroyers
are much bigger and
very different to their
earlier counterparts.
They remain popular
modelling subjects
though.
This Elco type MTB renovated by Gareth Jones is
based on an old Aerokit and features fittings from John
Haynes. It bristles with armament of all descriptions!
With all diving submarines, waterproof
glands and joints are essential and again the
commercial sector will come to the rescue. As
far as radio control is concerned, you cannot
use the now common 2.4Ghz sets as these
frequencies cannot penetrate water. The older
40Mhz and 27Mhz sets are therefore the
preferred choice and work well in fresh water
but are not so effective in saltwater.
If building a submarine then do give some
thought to where you are going to run it. If you
can’t see it due to the murky water then it is
effectively out of control and you may well lose
it. Clear water is obviously best where the boat
can be monitored and swimming pools allow
the most enjoyment to be derived from the
model. Be wary of mixed sailing on a pond as
people controlling surface models can easily
miss a submarine proceeding at periscope
depth with unfortunate consequences for both!
There is a huge amount of information on the
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 65
A view of the ‘innards’ of the Engel 212A submarine kit showing the electro
mechanical components. (Paul Freshney)

Left: Traditional submarines of the WW2 period have more above deck detail.

Left: Not all working submarines are of large prototypes. This is an X craft midget sub
used to attack the German battleship Tirpitz in a Norwegian fjord.
This superb scratch built model of the Greek gunboat Ambrakia by Tony Hallows is
steam powered as well.

The Denny Steam Gunboat is a popular project and plans are available from the Model
Boats Plans Service. Another Bob Maggs model. This German flak barge is an unusual model and hails from Scotland!

internet and elsewhere about building model
submarines and a good place to start is the
Association of Model Submariners Website
www.associationofmodelsubmariners.com
Elsewhere in this issue you will find a report on
the RN Submarine Museum which is a must
see for all budding submarine modellers.
Miscellaneous Warships
The world is your oyster here with all sorts of
odd designs as well as the more conventional
prototypes for those willing to do a bit of
research.
Most, but by no means all, of the possibilities
will be smaller vessels with suitable modelling
scales ranging from 1/96 for vessels such
as escort vessels up to 1/24 for harbour
craft and so will appeal to those who prefer
working to larger scales. The ships and boats
in this category will include popular subjects
such as corvettes, minesweepers, landing
craft, armed trawlers and tugs, gunboats of
various types including monitors and harbour
defence vessels. More unusual subjects might
be experimental vessels, particularly those
of the Victorian period and oddities such as
the circular Russian battleships or ‘Popovs’.
There are also some strange looking modern
warships such as the new US Independence
LCS 2 class littoral trimaran corvettes and the
technology demonstrator trimaran ship Triton
built for testing by the Royal Navy in a number
of roles. A simplified version of the LCS 2
designed by Glynn Guest and featured in the
June 2012 issue of Model Boats, is available in
plan form from the Model Boats Plans Service
as MM2073 Triune.
Special Effects
Warship models frequently lend themselves to
special effects and extra gadgetry. Common
additions are sound effects such as the whoop,
whoop of a destroyer siren, signal lamps
blinking programmable messages and turning
radars or helicopter rotors. A bit further up the
scale on larger models you can find turrets that
rotate and elevate and even in some cases
simulate firing. After that you reach the realms
of pyrotechnics which are only used under
strict conditions of public safety and normally
used to put on displays for the general public,
the Portsmouth Model Boat Display Team
being well known for their entertaining but
tightly controlled sea battle scenarios of the
WW2 and Napoleonic eras.
Over in the United States there are groups
which build models with weakened areas
in the hulls armed with airguns firing BB
pellets. The running gear and electronics are
waterproofed and the models engage in fierce
battering of one another until the one with the
most perforations sinks. This might entail, for
example, Hood and Bismarck going hammer
and tongs a foot or so apart like a couple of old
wooden walls until one slides below the surface
for later recovery and repair. Needless to say,
such antics would not be permitted anywhere
in the UK!
Resources for Modelmakers
The intending warship modeller is spoilt
for choice when it comes to support from

66 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 WARSHIPS

The evergreen Matchbox/Revell Corvette is an enduringly popular plastic kit

conversion. This very attractive example was built by Dave Abbott. This impressive US hovercraft was photographed at a Beale Park regatta and
performed just like the prototype.

Landing craft come in all shapes and sizes and many models are able to unload tanks
and other vehicles by R/C. A very realistic example seen at a Chantry Club event.

The WW1 light monitor M33, armed with two 6 inch guns is being restored at
Portsmouth dockyard. In this view she is seen from HMS Victory with HMS Ark Royal
acting as a backdrop.

Left: Pyrotechnics need

to be treated with respect
as this photo of a WW2
The Portsmouth Model Boat Display Team convoy battle staged by
demonstrates the realism they can achieve with a the Portsmouth Model
Napoleonic era battle. Boat Display Team
shows!

commercial sources. Plans, drawings, hulls,
kits and fittings are all widely available from
suppliers and manufacturers, some of whom
specialise in naval products. Warship plans are
plentiful, there are over 150 in the Model Boats
Plans Service range alone and this is just one
of many sources of drawings which include
specialist suppliers and official sources such as
the National Maritime Museum although you
will need deep pockets for the latter! If you are
looking for plans for destroyer size vessels and
below then John Lambert, www.feralchicken.
co.uk/lambert-plans should be one of your
ports of call with his extensive range of ship
plans and armament drawings. Jecobin www.
jecobinplans.com have a vast catalogue of
plans and fitting drawings for modern warships
while Metcalf Mouldings have recently acquired
the Sambrook Marine plans range of WW1 and
WW2 RN warships, most of which were drawn
by John Roberts. Hulls, fittings and semi kits
are also readily available from many suppliers
with Fleetscale www.fleetscale.com and John
Haynes www.johnrhaynes.com being major
specialists in warship modelling. Many kit
manufacturers include naval subjects in their
ranges and Deans Marine www.deansmarine.
co.uk have a particularly extensive selection
of warships of all sizes and periods to choose
from. These suppliers and others were listed in
the ‘Best of British’ compilation published in the
Winter 2012 Special issue of Model Boats.
There are of course also specialist books on
model warship construction as well as sections
on warships in books devoted to more general
ship modelling subjects. The keen modeller
will also find a wealth of information of use to
warship modellers in technical publications
about warships, notably Conway’s ‘Anatomy
of the Ship’ series which covers a number of
famous major vessels and includes detailed
drawings.
Lastly of course there is the Internet –
where would we be without it? As well as a
general source of information using search
engines, it also hosts a number of boat
modelling discussion forums such as the
Surface Warship Association www.surface-
warships.org.uk and the previously mentioned
Association of Model Submariners. There are
also a number of specialist model warship
clubs around the UK and wider afield which
can be found by searches or from links on the
forums. Forum members are always willing
to assist newcomers and experts alike with
requests for information but before asking do
check whether the subject you are interested
in hasn’t already been discussed on the forum
(they will all have a search facility) and do make
your question(s) clear and to the point to get
the best response. Starting a topic headed
‘Need help with my model warship’ may not
spark much enthusiasm!
Conclusion
If you are considering a warship model
for your next project then there really is
something available for everyone whatever their
preferences, skill levels or budget and as much
support and advice as anyone could possibly
want. Just don’t forget to stock up on that grey
paint though!

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 67

 An artist’s impression of
HMS Alliance following
completion of the
renovation works.

Left: HMS Alliance,

forward torpedo
compartment.

Below: HMS Alliance in

2009.
Above: Repairs to the
bow of HMS Alliance
in 2013.

Below: Stern of HMS Alliance in 2009 showing

corrosion damage.

The RN Submarine Museum

Colin Bishop reports Museum strikes an excellent balance between
historic artifacts imaginatively presented and
genuinely educational and entertaining ‘hands
Editorial introduction on’ mechanisms which illustrate in easily
The Submarine service has a long and proud history extending back to 1901 with understood terms what submarines are all
the launch of the Royal Navy’s first submarine Holland 1. Since then, the service has about. I just wish that all museums could be
distinguished itself both in war and peace with submariners winning no less than 14 like this!
Victoria Crosses for the ultimate in bravery along the way. So where to start? Rather than describe
the progressive evolution of the submarine
I will look at each of the several parts of the

A s befitting its unique status, ‘the Trade’

as Rudyard Kipling named it, has its own
dedicated museum situated in Haslar Creek,
craft to a disassembled Polaris ballistic missile.
It is also what one might term, a very ‘user
friendly’ museum which is extremely accessible
museum in turn as would a typical visitor.

Gosport, a location which for many years was
synonymous with RN submarines. This is no
ordinary museum. It possesses four full size
submarines and a vast range of exhibits which
include replicas of the very first submersible
and catches the imagination of visitors who
might not otherwise have thought themselves
interested in submarines. At a time when many
museums are putting exhibits into store in
favour of interactive displays the Submarine
HMS Alliance
The most prominent of the museum’s
exhibits is HMS Alliance which dominates the
local waterfront and leaves you in no doubt
whatsoever just where this museum is coming
from!

68 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk


Above: The incredible complexity of a submarine interior.
Above: Twin diesel engines fitted to HMS Alliance in the cramped motor compartment.
Alliance was completed in 1947 as an
Amphion class overseas patrol submarine
designed for service in the Far East. As such
she was a development of the preceding ‘T’
class and represented the final development of
WW2 experience. The class went on to serve
successfully into the Cold War clocking up
almost three decades as the mainstay of the
submarine service. An interesting constructional
quirk was that the commanding officer’s tiny
cabin was not situated within the main pressure
hull but was a welded on cylinder contained
within the base of the conning tower. She
was also fitted with a sewage tank in place of
the complicated and not always reliable toilet
pumping out arrangements installed in earlier
boats.
The ‘A’ class completed with a conventional
www.modelboats.co.uk
The midget
submarine X24.
Above: Interior view of X24.
Left: Entertaining and
educational interactive
displays on the first floor
of the John Fieldhouse
Building.
Right: Model of Nordenfelt
1 of 1883; an early
unsuccessful design.
conning tower and deck gun but were
reconstructed in the early 1950s when a
large fin was fitted to enclose the conning
tower and periscope masts and the external
torpedo tubes were removed. This improved
underwater speed and quietness, attributes
needed for a hunter killer submarine. The sonar
fit was also upgraded. Fitting a Snort mast
to permit the diesels to run without surfacing
and aircraft detection radar both contributed
to making the boat more effective and less
vulnerable to attack.
Alliance was taken out of service in 1973
after which she spent five years as a training
vessel before being prepared for preservation
at the Submarine Museum where she has
remained ever since.
I toured the boat on an earlier visit in
SUBMARINE MUSEUM
November 2009 and found it a fascinating
experience. Ex submariners are employed as
guides and do a great job in explaining what it
was like to serve on board one of these boats.
The overwhelming impression I received was
of just how complex these vessels were both
to build and to operate and how it requires
a very special breed of person to become a
submariner.
At the time of writing, HMS Alliance
is undergoing a £6.75m restoration and
improvement project which is due for
completion for Easter 2014. The work includes
extensive repairs to remedy corrosion damage
while the interior will be completely restored
throughout with new interpretation, state of
the art lighting and soundscapes to bring the
submarine to life. Among other things the
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 69
visitor will take a time journey through every
decade of the submarine’s service from the
1940’s to the 1970’s. Visitors will continue to
be guided through the submarine by a veteran
submariner who will tell their stories of working
beneath the waves and they will experience
life on board with noises, smells and be able to
use the working periscope to view Portsmouth
Harbour. The old cradles supporting the
boat above the water have been replaced by
reclaimed land beneath her which will facilitate
access to and future maintenance of the
vessel.
Alliance will remain open to the public
through most of the restoration period but may
need to be closed on occasion to allow internal
work to take place. Intending visitors should
therefore check in advance with the museum if
they wish to take the tour.
HMS Alliance general data:
Length: 281ft (85.7m); Beam: 22ft (6.8m);
Displacement: 1360/1590 tons (surface/
submerged). Speed on surface 18.5 knots; 8
knots submerged. Diving depth: 500ft (150m).
Range: 10,500 Nautical miles. Armament (as
built): 6 bow torpedo tubes and 4 stern tubes,
20 torpedoes; One 4 inch deck gun and one
20mm Oerlikon. Crew: 5 officers, 56 ratings.
John Fieldhouse Building
This is the Museum’s main building, named
after Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fieldhouse, the
Royal Navy’s most senior submariner, who
commanded the Falklands Task Force in 1982.
Most of the front area of the ground floor is
used for the ticket desk and shop and can be
adapted for meetings, conferences and private
hire including wedding ceremonies which can
also be held aboard HMS Alliance! Situated
along the side opposite the entrance is another
of the Museum’s full size submarines, the
midget X craft X24 which made two successful
attacks in Bergen harbour in 1944 sinking a
merchant ship and a floating dock. The stern
section of the craft has been separated from
the forward part to allow the interior to be
viewed and it is also possible to look directly

Above: Bridge area of Right: K and M class

WW2 period submarine submarines of the
depot ship HMS Forth of immediate post WW1
1939. period.

Above: Cutaway side view

of depot ship HMS Forth.
Above: Builders model of HMS Latona, a cruiser used as an early submarine depot ship

Left: Cutaway model

of the M1, a monitor
submarine intended for
commerce raiding and
armed with a 12 inch gun,
one hit from which could
sink most merchantmen.

Left: The museum holds

a number of submarine
‘Jolly Roger’ flags
including this one from
HMS Upholder lost in Above: An evocative painting of the launch of Britain’s first nuclear submarine HMS
1942. Dreadnought in1960.

70 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk


down the main hatch from the floor above.
To the rear of the ground and first floors
are the history galleries which tell the story of
submarines from the very first efforts to travel
underwater. These contain many fascinating
exhibits and memorabilia including a full size
replica of David Bushnell’s ‘Turtle’ of 1776
which was used in an unsuccessful attack
against HMS Eagle in New York harbour during
the American war of Independence. There are
also two working periscopes, taken from HMS
Conqueror which sank the Argentinian cruiser
general Belgrano, which emerge through the
roof of the building and which can be used to
survey Portsmouth Harbour.
Of particular interest to readers will be the
Above: HMS Thunderbolt (Ex Thetis) participated in a number of
clandestine WW2 missions.
Above: White ensign from HMS E11 of WW1 fame for
her exploits in the Dardanelles.
www.modelboats.co.uk
many excellent models, a selection of which are
shown in the photos. Most are submarines but
there are also support vessels of various eras
including a superb builder’s model of the cruiser
HMS Latona of 1892 displayed in Victorian
livery which was used as a submarine depot
ship in 1902/1903.
Also on the first floor is a very good
interactive gallery which illustrates the physics
relating to submarines in an educational and
The Museum’s History
Galleries contain a fascinating
variety of model and other
exhibits illustrating the history
of submarining
Above: Model of a Soviet Akula submarine which was a formidable antagonist in the
Cold War. These vessels are still in service.
Above: Conning tower detail of a model of HMS Storm.
SUBMARINE MUSEUM
accessible way, not just for children either;
adults and modellers will find it fascinating as
well. Youngsters are particularly catered for by
the themes of ‘Horrible Science of Submarines’
and also have the opportunity to dress up.
Holland Gallery
Situated behind the John Fieldhouse building,
this climate controlled gallery houses the
Royal Navy’s first submarine, Holland 1 of
1901. Armed with a single torpedo tube and
two reloads she was only suitable for harbour
defence duties but provided an invaluable
introduction to the more effective submarines
that would follow. By 1913 she was obsolete
and sank off the Eddystone Lighthouse while
Above: One of the periscopes of HMS Conqueror which
sank the Argentinian cruiser Admiral Belgrano in 1982. It
now provides views of Portsmouth harbour.
Left: Cutaway model of Holland 1 showing interior detail.
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 71
 Left: The WW1 submarine
E22 unsuccessfully trialled
the launch of Zeppelin
hunting seaplanes which
floated off as the boat
submerged. ( Reserve
model collection.)

Below: General view of

the weapons building with
Polaris missile on the right.

Above: Polaris launch console. Pistol grip firing

mechanism is a great visitor attraction!

Above: Submarine rescue vehicle used in submarine Above: The conning tower of WW1 submarine E17
accident situations. recovered from the Dutch coast.

Left: A model of David

Bushnell’s Turtle in the
museum reserve model
collection.

Submarine M2 was fitted with a

seaplane hangar for a reconnaissance
aircraft. She was accidentally lost in
1932. (Reserve model collection)

Above: German Biber miniature submarines did not have a successful war record.

72 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 SUBMARINE MUSEUM

on tow to the breakers yard. In 1981 the wreck
was rediscovered and raised the following
year following which it was transported to the
Submarine Museum. Initially displayed in the
open air, the anti corrosion treatment originally
applied eventually failed and the vessel was
subsequently immersed in a tank of sodium
carbonate solution in 1995 for four years to
leach out the corrosive agents. The current
purpose built building was opened in 2001
and the submarine is now displayed in the
condition she was in when stripped for towing
to the breakers. After viewing an introductory
film, visitors pass through an airlock to the
main gallery which has a walkway surrounding
the vessel. A hole cut in the port side permits
access to the interior of the boat allowing
the original torpedo tube and engines to be
viewed at close quarters. The simplicity of
Holland 1 makes a fascinating contrast to HMS
Alliance which was one of the final conventional
The preserved submarine submarine designs.
Holland 1 in her specially
constructed building. Weapons Building
And now for something completely different;
like a Polaris missile for example! The Weapons
building is situated in the approach road to the
The electric motor Museum and has some very interesting exhibits
of Holland 1 with including yet another full size submarine. The
the birdcage above Polaris takes up most of one wall of this long
to give warning of
foul air.
Attractive features of the of the
Museum include the mixture of
inside and outside exhibits and
its superb waterfront location
dominated by HMS Alliance
in 1916, the propeller of a Resolution class
Polaris missile sub weighing over 12 tons and a
LR3 submarine rescue submersible.
I was granted access to the reserve model
collection housed in the administrative building
and which contains some interesting items
including a model of the WW1 E22 which
carried two small seaplanes aft of the conning
tower which were intended to float free as the
submarine submerged and then take off to
shoot down any lurking Zeppelin airships. The
trials were apparently not successful.
Other facilities include Busy Boats Bay which
is a play space for children, and a Learning
Centre, details of which can be found on the
Museum website.
Last, but not least, there is a coffee shop
serving light refreshments to keep you refuelled
during your visit.
Research
The Museum also houses documentary
and photographic research facilities and the
curatorial staff will endeavour to assist enquiries
to the best of their ability. Visits are by prior
appointment only.
Conclusion and
acknowledgements
In my view this is all that a museum should be
with a great mix which will appeal to visitors of
all ages which is borne out by the entries in the
visitor’s book. Modellers will find it fascinating
but it also makes for a great family day out.
My thanks to Ms. Bill Sainsbury and her
colleagues for facilitating my visit and providing
additional information and images.

Above: The single torpedo tube mounted in Holland 1.
Two reloads were carried.
Above: RN torpedoes with Polaris in background.
building and is split into sections to show its
inner workings with a bit of a gap at the front
where the nuclear warheads once sat. The first
thing that strikes you is its size, especially when
you realise that each ballistic SSBM carried 16
of these deadly missiles, quite sobering really.
Other exhibits include several versions of
torpedo including the wire guided Tigerfish
plus some examples of submarine mounted
guns. The full size submarine is a German
Biber miniature type which was deployed
in large numbers towards the end of WW2
without conspicuous success due partly to
bad engineering and poor crew training. At one
end of the building is a darkened section which
features various internal submarine operational
displays including a full Polaris missile
maintenance and firing panel. The gun type
firing grip is also fitted showing considerable
signs of wear demonstrating the irresistible
impulse upon visitors to rain down nuclear
destruction and I’m afraid I also succumbed to
the temptation.
Other Exhibits and Facilities
Dotted around the site are external exhibits
which include the conning tower of the WW1
submarine E17 which went aground in Holland
Essentials.
RN Submarine Museum, Haslar Jetty Road,
Gosport, Hampshire PO12 2AS
Website: www.submarine-museum.co.uk
Enquiries: 023 9251 0354
Opening hours: The Museum is generally open
all year with some exceptions during the winter
months – see website.
Getting there: Free car park or take the
Gosport Ferry from Portsmouth and it is a 10
minute walk along the waterfront. There is also
a waterbus service from various points around
Portsmouth Harbour at hourly intervals during
the Summer months.
The National Museum of the
Royal Navy
The Submarine Museum is part of the National
Museum of the Royal Navy which also includes
the RN Museum Portsmouth, HMS Victory, the
Fleet Air Arm Museum, Royal Marines Museum
and the WW1 light cruiser HMS Caroline,
last survivor of the Battle of Jutland and the
subject of a preservation project in Belfast. The
Museum has a comprehensive website www.
nmrn.org.uk which is well worth visiting for an
overview of the Museum’s scope and activities
and latest news.

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 73


Thames Sailing Barges
Richard Chesney introduces these very attractive and practical scale sailing models
Sailing Barges
The Thames and Medway sailing barges
developed over a period of several hundred
years from a blunt ended vessel similar to a
punt (but much larger) carrying a square sail to
a vessel with a recognizable bow and stern and
a fore and aft rig that is manageable by two
crew.
The sail is held in shape by a spar called a
sprit that goes from the foot by the mast case
to the peak approximately 60 feet away and
there is some dispute as to whether this was an
import from Holland over 600 years ago. What
is not in dispute is the Dutch influence on the
lee boards, (the flap things that hang on the
outside of the hull), which control the amount of
leeway (sideways movement in the water) made
when lightly loaded.
These were introduced into the country after
a Dutch style yacht with leeboards was
presented to King James after the cessation of
the wars between the Dutch and the Royal
Navies. Their introduction into the sailing barges
(still punt shaped) was in the mid 18th century
and in the following hundred years even the hull
shape changed to having a rounded bow with a
74 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
rounded forefoot and a pinched in transom
stern. Subsequently the bow became slightly
finer in plan view and with a definite straight
stem and the stern widened slightly to have
what might be called a wine glass shape.
The use of the barges was not only for the
carriage of cargoes from the estuary around
Gravesend, which was the closest point at that
time that trading ships could get to the port of
London, but for the carriage of almost anything
from around the East and South East coast into
London.
In 1847 there were barge races in Harwich
and in 1863 a barge owner, Henry Dodd,
initiated a series of races on the Thames to
improve the speed and handling of barges. He
had an ulterior motive for this; the faster the
barges went the more cargo voyages they could
make in a given period of time.
Henry Dodd was referred to as the ‘Golden
Dustman’ in Charles Dickens’ book ‘Our Mutual
Friend’, as he took waste from the stables and
streets of London out to the fields of Essex for
manure and brought hay and straw (probably
plus anything else produced on the farms) back
into London to feed and stable the horses in the
Close racing by Bowsprits
at Mote Park.
Capital.
These barge matches were apparently
extremely popular as a spectacle and led to
them being continued right up to the First World
War. They were re-introduced in the 1920’s until
the Second World War and in the 1950’s to
early 60’s. At this point there were very few
barges still capable of being raced due to their
age and the cost of maintaining them
specifically for racing.
Around this time several groups of
enthusiasts with an interest in preserving barges
and their history started yet another series of
races which continue to this day.
Model Barges
Model Thames sailing barges had been in
modellers minds from at least the early 1950’s
with the ‘Model Maker’ plan of WILL EVERARD
and a couple of plans for semi scale models
from the same magazine family. Interest was
also stimulated by a group called the Model
Barge Owners Association, which did some
sterling work in surveying and drawing plans for
barges in the late 1950’s/early 1960’s. After
that, the next organization involved in modeling
www.modelboats.co.uk

Part of the Finals Fleet at Mote Park, Maidstone 2010.
Model barge races are stately occasions and Beale Park near Reading is an ideal venue.
and publicizing the vessels was the Scale Sail
Association run by the late Mike Taylor.
From North London and the Broomfield
Model Boat Club came a proposal from the late
Tony Lench to race the 1/24 scale (1/2inch to
1ft) model barges owned by the members and
friends from other clubs at, I think, three venues.
This started as just a series of races for model
sailing barges but as there were different styles
of boat turning up and the numbers and types
of rig were getting impossible to control in single
heats, it was decided after a couple of years to
divide the boats into Staysail Barges with just
five sails and Bowsprit with six sails rigged with
a bowsprit.
Then the company HFM produced and
marketed the KATHLEEN, a model around 28
inches hull length at a scale of 1/35 and thus
was introduced the ‘Little’uns’ class for models
under 30 inches hull length. Richard Webb
designed a semi-scale easy build model, KITTY,
and plans were published in ‘Model Boats’
proving to be a popular subject which could be
scaled up or down to enable modellers to build
at a size to suit their needs.
www.modelboats.co.uk
The model barge TRIUMPH, seen here at a Chantry club regatta epitomises the
attractiveness of these models.
Sailing
barges make
colourful and
impressive
models and
really capture
the essence of
their full size
counterparts.
They perform
like them too!
In 1996 I offered to take over the organizing
and running of the Model Thames Sailing Barge
Championships (MTSBC) and introduced the
Coastal class of barges to take in the increasing
number of David Metcalf designed CELIA
JANES coming to the race meetings and being
thrashed by the smaller and handier 1/24 scale
Staysail and Bowsprit models.
The Association of Model
Barge Owners
At this time the Scale Sail Association was in
decline and to keep the interest in Thames
Barges going, Bob Bird and I founded the
Association of Model Barge Owners (AMBO).
Founded in 1996 the intention was to bring
together modellers who were interested in
Thames Sailing Barges and especially those
who built and sailed working models.
Initially AMBO and the MTSBC were
separate entities each with their own
newsletters but it was considered that
combining the two would save a lot of time and
effort by the founders. This was the start of a
number of changes in AMBO’s life as the initial
SAILING BARGES
one man band organization evolved into a
group with different members doing the tasks of
treasurer, barge race organizer, and show/event
arranger.
AMBO Members publicize the building and
sailing of model sailing barges by taking part in
regattas, displays and maritime exhibitions and
try to maintain a link with the owners of full-size
sailing barges.
A programme of racing events is arranged
annually in order to develop the performance of
the models, get the members together to
exchange ideas and show the models to
interested members of the public. As the
Association is national, the members are
widespread and these events and visits to
shows help in this respect. Monthly sailing
meetings are held on the model pond in
Promenade Park, Maldon, Essex on the
second Sunday of each month.
AMBO has a website which acts as a starting
point for accessing information on modelling
barges with downloadable booklets on
background information on the full size vessels,
construction hints and tips and lists of the
available fixtures and fittings for detail finishing
of your model including where GRP hulls can
be purchased and what plans are available for
scratch build in wood; generally plank on frame
construction.
The website also acts as a discussion forum
for exchange of ideas, requests for information
and advice and for the venues for the MTSBC
barge matches, race rules and match reports.
Also help and advice can be obtained by
telephoning the AMBO contact number (see at
the end of this article).
AMBO membership includes third party
insurance and copies of the Newsletter ‘Bitts &
Bobs’ which contains barge match reports and
helpful hints and tips on building as well as
anything else relating to Sailing Barges.
Issued each year to Racing Skippers is the
Venues Handbook which lists the match
venues, race rules and classes and gives
general information together with details of how
to get there.
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 75
The boat park at the Mote Park Finals 2011 – Colin Barrett inspecting the water.
A model of the barge CENTAUR. The original vessel is owned by the Thames Sailing Barge Trust and based
at Maldon, Essex
For a membership application form, look on
the website or contact myself, Richard
Chesney, (details at the end of this article).
These are also the contact details for building
hints, tips and sundry advice on ‘how it’s done’
and if I cannot help then I may know someone
who can!
Why Build a Sailing Barge?
They make a spectacular sight on the water
with their generally black hulls and red brown
sails; they don’t dash around like racing yachts
and make their way in a stately fashion yet can
be fairly manoeuverable in a breeze but need
concentration to handle in lighter winds (when 1
metre yachts etc. would still be fast and racy!)
It is this stately sailing characteristic and the
reminiscences of passers by of seeing the full
size vessels when trading in earlier years that
make them a talking point at barge matches
and shows. People are generally surprised
when you tell them they are built from scratch,
76 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
Richard Chesney’s SIRDAR, depicted as in 1938, was awarded a Highly Commended
certificate at the 2010 Model Engineer Exhibition at Sandown Park.
albeit with maybe a GRP hull, and not from a
kit.
The hull is relatively easy to make as a plank
on frame model and the rig can be as
complicated as you wish.
The hulls are all flat bottomed with a nearly
vertical bow varying in plan from almost yacht
type shape (rare) to rounded and bluff while the
stern should flow sweetly from aft of the square
section to the vertical or nearly vertical transom
upon which the rudder is hung.
There are two hatches; the fore hatch which
is around 5 inches square and the main hatch
which at 16 inches x 6 inches makes for easy
access to the radio control equipment. In this
area is also the holding point for the keel.
Keel you ask? Why a keel if the originals
sailed without one?
The full size barges are relatively heavy and
although square sectioned, sit comfortably in
the water even with no cargo and with a draft of
somewhere around 2 ft. (this is apparently a
AMBO display London MEE Alexandra Palace 2013 – a
mixture of 1/24, 1/48, 30 inch and 12 inch model barges
Kim Holland of the Isle of Man, builder of LADY
DAPHNE, on the ABMO stand at the Warwick show.
mystery to naval architects who reckon a hull
this shape would tilt and rest on one corner/
chine).
Models are far lighter than their big brothers
and with the large sail area up to 42 inches
above deck level and a draft of 1 inch to 1.5
inches will heel over very easily in a breeze even
with a fair amount of weight in the lowest part of
the hull. Thus a keel with a depth of 8 inches
and a weight of around 5 – 7lbs is needed to
keep them upright (or at least the right way up)
in winds that produce sizable waves on the
lakes/ponds sailed in. We have had a few sink
at barge matches but only in really terrible
conditions.
The rudder is another area of non scale work
as there is only an inch or so of it in contact with
the water and thus an extension underneath
approximately four to five inches deep is
required to give the grip on the water for
turning; not too long fore and aft though as it
will then act as a brake when turned!
www.modelboats.co.uk

The ABMO stand at the 2012 Warwick Show.
Coastal style Anchor Winch – WILL.
The rigging can be from just the shrouds that
hold the masts up and the sheets that control
the sails to a full scale fit of everything that the
full size vessel would have. And they sail well
with the full set as has been proved by
exhibition medal winning models.
For transport the mast can either be folded
backwards to lie along the deck or the topmast
dropped to allow it to be put part rigged into the
boot or back of an estate car. Thus it is then
about 4 ft long, 12 inches wide and between 6
inches and 20 inches high with a weight of
around 6lbs without the keel. A number of
skippers have the keel fitting made into a
handle so that the model can be lifted easily
and on the centre of gravity.
When the barge is built to sail it can be
controlled by the minimum of radio control
assistance. The minimum is one channel
controlling the rudder but this means that you
have no control over the mainsail except by
coming into the bank and adjusting the
mainsheet to let the sail out or pull it in. It is
actually possible to sail with the sail set to a mid
www.modelboats.co.uk
Main mast case (tabernacle) on the barge WILL (Picture taken in St. Katherine’s Dock).
Port Leeboard Winch on WILL.
position and put up with the inability to point up
into wind as high as a model with sail control.
The Staysail Championship was won in 2000
with a single channel controlled model!
The usual RC set up is two channels with
one on the rudder and the other using either a
sail winch servo or a sail arm servo to set the
mainsail. The vangs which control the position
of the sprit can either be fixed to give an
average swing as the sail is pulled in or out or
can be linked to the main sheet to let it out or
pull it in as the mainsail is set.
A full size barge and most models have only
control on the mainsail, pulling the clew (the
after foot of the sail) in or letting it out. The
topsail is linked to the upper end of the sprit, the
mizzen on its boom is linked to the rudder to aid
turning and the foresail is left to run free across
the fore horse as the barge turns or tacks. The
staysail above the foresail is fixed to or left to run
free on a line at its clew to take up an
appropriate working position. This said, some
skippers try to control all the controllable sails
using winches or long arm sail servos but it
SAILING BARGES
seems just added complication to me.
AMBO, either via the website or on request,
can supply the majority of the information
required to build a barge from a set of plans
either plank on frame or using a GRP hull.
The scales to which the majority of the
models are built for the Model Thames Sailing
Barge Championships are 1/24 (1/2 inch to a
foot) and approx. 1/36 (3/8 inch to a foot) with a
hull 30 inches long. Although some have been
built and sailed to other scales 1/32 or 1/40
and there is at the Broomfield Club a 1/20 scale
CAMBRIA plus there are least four being built
at 1/18 scale giving a hull length of around 5 ft 6
inches.
The 1/24 scale models are divided into two
classes with a hull length of around 42 inches,
Bowsprit – those barges fitted with a bowsprit
and carrying a jib staysail over and above
foresail – and Staysail with only five sails.
A third 1/24 scale class is Coastal which
specifies a hull length over 45 inches and under
50 inches in length
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 77
Plans
Full size Barges were not built from plans but plans from which to make a model. There are
from the accumulated knowledge of the barge plans drawn by enthusiasts over the years and
builder and his specification for tonnage and generally taken from personal surveys made
usage given by the customer for the completed when a Barge was out of the water on a ‘hard’
item. Thus there are very few official accurate for maintenance.
The following list is not the total number available but gives an indication of what is out there:

WILL EVERARD Model Boats Plans Service 1/48 Scale Coastal Barge

KATHLEEN Model Boats Plans Service Small scale – approx. 1/60

GIRALDA Model Boats Plans Service Small scale – approx. 1/60

Wheelhouse detail on WILL. All this can be effectively
VENTA David MacGregor Plans Service 1/48 scale reproduced on a model.
KITTY Model Boats Plans Service 1/40 Semi-scale

Brown Son & Ferguson 1/48 scale Coastal Barge

LADY DAPHNE
Harold Underhill Plan
CELIA JANE Model Boats Plans Service 1/24 Semi-scale Coastal

VALERIE ANNE Traplet Plans 1/24 scale Plan

WESTMORELAND Thames Sailing Barge Trust Approx. 1/60 scale

ARROW Thames Sailing Barge Trust Unknown Scale

JAMES PIPER AMBO / RC Plan 1/24 scale

WESTMORELAND AMBO / RC Plan 1/24 scale

The stern decoration on LADY DAPHNE. Note the
The AMBO website has a list of known plans and the supplier but beware as they are not all ‘wineglass’ shape of the transom.
designed for model building and would need a bit of thought and work before building could begin.
An AMBO booklet is also available with background information on barges, books, plans, hulls
fittings etc. Building
Every modeller has his own way of doing things
but here is mine plus a few pictures of others.
Hulls I start by making the wood keel something
Commercially there are several GRP hulls available: like 1/2 inch (12.5mm) in width and setting up
the stem and stern posts. This is fixed to the
Kingston Mouldings; 1/24 scale which includes the plans in the purchase price.The building board to keep it straight, either by
VENTA stern is not quite scale but she makes into quite a good model screwing through it or by using brackets of
plastic or metal, and ensuring that the bow and
VALERIE ANNE Waverley Models; 1/24 scale
stern are vertical and in line.
LADY DAPHNE Models by Design; 1/24 scale coastal barge
The ribs/frames are cut out of 1/8 inch (3mm)
ply with the centres removed to allow access
for radio fitment and wiring etc. They are set up
There are also hulls available from Mastman, David Watts: on the keel at the appropriate points again
ensuring they are vertical and level. To keep
LADY JEAN 1/24 scale coastal barge – sister ship the LADY DAPHNE everything together, the deck edge of the ribs
are joined by a laminate of balsa strips the full
PORTLIGHT 1/24 scale model of a steel hulled barge length of the hull. Matching this at the turn of
1/24 scale, based on plans of the ‘Topsail Barge Champion Class 1895’ in Frank G. the side to bottom (the chine) is a similar
GREYHOUND
G. Carr’s Book ‘Sailing Barges’ laminate of balsa strips. There are also doublers
added to the keel to make a wider gluing strip
Unfortunately the other hull producer Terry Moffat passed away in March 2013 and currently the for the planking.
future of his moulds is uncertain but it is hoped they can be passed on to someone who will At this point the skeleton can be removed
continue production. from the building board for skinning and
planking but when I did this for SIRDAR the
Fixtures & Fittings Also supplied are numerous bits and pieces wood tried to straighten itself out and actually
There are very few fittings specifically available that come in useful; small eyelets, small screw hogged the keel, raising the centre and leaving
for model barges. Those from Waverley Models eyes, dead eyes, cleats, bollards and rope of the bow and stern about1/4 inch (6mm) lower!
include mast case (tabernacle), anchor winch, various sizes for rigging plus other scale detail I skin the basic skeleton with 1/64 inch
brail and leeboard winches, mizzen mast case accessories for ‘decorating’ the model. (approx. 0.4mm) ply and then plank the result
and a keel shell. A catalogue is available either in hard copy or with 1/2 inch wide (12.5mm) (scale width) x
Mastman makes CNC cut brass leeboard on the internet. 1/16 inch (1.5mm) balsa, damping or steaming
and brail winches based on Richard Chesney Whilst building one of my early examples I the balsa to avoid breaking it. Do not force the
drawings and also crosstree and mainmast cap made a list of everything that might be useful in planks to twist into place, let them lie naturally
sets, stayfall tackle blocks (large three sheave building a model barge which is available on the and fit what are called stealers to fill in the gaps.
blocks at the bow holding the mast up); mast AMBO website or hard copy from myself. This Now the deck can also be skinned and
case (tabernacle) and mizzen mast case as well is many A4 pages long and also lists the planked with1/4 inch (6mm) wide scale balsa
as anchor winch and main/fore horse contact details for suppliers of the items listed. planks and the hatch coamings (sides) fitted.
mountings. It is also useful for other scale sail builders. Building from a GRP hull a lot of the above

78 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 SAILING BARGES

enjoyment is missed as the deck is the only

common bit of construction after the laminated
inwales and deck beams have been fitted.
Masts and spars can either be turned on a
lathe if you have such a thing or made from
appropriate diameter dowel. There is some
metal work to be done or bought from one of
the few suppliers of barge fittings. These are the
mast cases for main and mizzen masts and the
cross trees and, if you feel like fretting out brass
fittings, the winches for brails and leeboards.
Set up the masts and spars with rigging cord
and chain of various sizes and then make
patterns of the sails by hanging large sheets of
paper (lining paper from a decorating supplies
shop is useful for this) and drawing the shapes
required. Add a bit for the hems and when the
sail cloth is cut you can learn the art of sewing.
After that it is up to you what colour you paint
everything.
That in a few words is more fully explained in
the 28 pages of the ‘Building a Thames Sailing
Barge’ booklet available from the AMBO library Main anchor winch on GREYHOUND built by John Greenhill-Jeffery of Herne Bay.
of useful booklets.
After building you can sail it but it is more
interesting to sail with others. ABMO run a
series of sailing barge matches each season,
details of which can be found on their website.
Those following publication of this issue are:

August 4th Brightlingsea, Essex

Brightlingsea MBC
August 11th Broomfield, N. London
Broomfield MBC
August 25th Maldon, Essex
AMBO / MTSBC

Bows of FABERGE – a 30 inch model made Stern of GREYHOUND II full of authentic detail and featuring subtle weathering.
by Richard Chesney.

Cross Trees detail on THERESA MARY, a CELIA JANE based 1/24 scale model by Bow of Bowsprit Barge MARYANNE built by Colin Barrett.
Kim Holland.

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 79

Shelter and Mizzen Mast on a Mulie Rigged Coastal Barge. Note the rudder extension for practical sailing.

Mainsail rotary winch set up in JO PIPER, a GRP hulled Planking Kim Holland’s LADY DAPHNE. See text for description.
model owned by Jo Chesney.

80 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 SAILING BARGES

KITTY Skeleton with first sub-skin added showing simple construction method.

Championship Finals The 1989 third edition contains a few small scale
September 9th Mote Park, Maidstone, Kent plans and sections and has coloured photographs
Cygnets MBC to bring the history of restored barges up to date.

Useful Reading Matter WALSH R

If you really take to model barge Building there a KATHLEEN 1986
numerous books on sailing barges, their building A very detailed history of the rebuilding of the
and sailing but here are a few to start your library: KATHLEEN which also provides invaluable
historical documentation if you are considering
COOPER F S building this prototype.
A HANDBOOK OF SAILING BARGES 1955
This is an excellent book for modellers as it shows Contacts Winches CNC cut by ‘Mastman’ (David Watts); some of
a lot of fine detail in the form of scrap drawings or The Association of Model Barge Owners the few commercial fittings available for model barges.
photographs that cannot be seen in the general Richard Chesney
photographic studies of sailing barges. It is a 49 South Avenue, Thorpe Lea, EGHAM, Surrey Email: info@kingstonmouldings.co.uk
difficult book to find but can be obtained from the TW20 8HQ www.Kingstonmouldings.co.uk
library inter loan service. rchesney@tesco.net
Models by Design
FREESTON & KENT AMBO website: www.modelbarge.info Fox Pines, 199 Ringwood Road, St LEONARDS,
MODELLING THAMES SAILING BARGES Dorset BH24 2QA
One of the best books available to the modeller as For Plans & Hulls Tel: 01425 476174 or 0710 645344
it has clear, concise information on the construction Note that some of the suppliers are mail order only. Email: GrigAndr@aol.com
of models, rather than just the prototype. If you are Check in Model Magazines for other addresses www.modelsbydesign.co.uk
a serious modeller then this is the book for you! not listed Traplet Plans Service
Difficult to locate as it is out of print but can be
ordered via the library service. Cornwall Model Boats: Mail Order Only Model Boats Plans Service
Unit 4D, Highfield Road Industrial Estate, Tel: 0844 848 8822
MARCH E J CAMELFORD, Cornwall PL32 9RA www.myhobbystore.com
SPRITSAIL BARGES OF THE THAMES AND Tel: 01840 211009
MEDWAY www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk Traplet Publications Ltd
An excellent book giving comprehensive Traplet House, Pendragon Close, Malvern,
information on all aspects of barges. With the David Watts (Mastman) mail order or at Shows Worcestershire WH14 1GA
added bonus of a full glossary of barge terms and 8 Burrfield Drive, St Pauls Cray, ORPINGTON, Tel. 01684 588500 Fax: 01684 578558
construction notes and detail diagrams of fittings Kent BR5 4BZ Email: customerservices@traplet.com
on the “KATHLEEN” and some general information Email: mastman@btconnect.com
on others, this is a MUST for the serious modeller. www.mastman.co.uk Brown Son & Ferguson
4- 10 Darnley Street, Glasgow G41 2SD
CARR Frank G G Waverley Models: Mail Order Only Tel. 0141 429 1234
SAILING BARGES 1931 20b Moor Lane, CLEVEDON, N. Somerset BS21 www.skipper.co.uk
This is a very informative book on all aspects of the 6ES
history and evolution of the sailing barge. As it is Tel/Fax: 01275 546722 Thames Sailing Barge Trust (plans)
written by a historian, there is not a great deal of Mobile: 07798 502826 T O’Sullivan, 22 Lonsdale Court, Pin Green,
modelling detail, but even so it is well worth reading STEVENAGE, Herts SG1 5EL
for background information. Kingston Mouldings Mail Order Only
As it was originally written in 1931 it contains 411 Ringwood Road, Parkstone, POOLE, Dorset David MacGregor Plans Service
information and photos from the latter days of the BH12 4LX SS Great Britain Trading Ltd, Great Western Dock,
working barge. Tel/Fax: 01202 744716 BRISTOL, BS1 6TY

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 81

You built a...what??
Ashley Needham offers an insight into the techniques of building unorthodox models.
In the beginning
As an exponent of building unusual subjects,
The Editor has approached me to pen an
article for this Model Boats special issue.
Several of these craft have previously appeared
in Model Boats magazine, so I will not simply
be reiterating this material, but giving some of
the reasons behind my choices, both for the
actual models and materials and also particular
aspects of these builds, the sort of things you
meet when in uncharted territory!
I won`t quite start at the beginning, but my
return to model boating coincided with our
son coming of ‘boating age’ (about 9 years
ago now) with the Christmas present of a
cheap Woolworth`s ready-to-run speedboat.
This prompted me to reactivate my 30 year
old HMS Jersey OPV, and a bit later on finish
the 1/96 HMS Manchester I had partially
completed, of similar vintage! Unfortunately as
you will realise, we couldn’t boat together as
the Ready To Run controls would not work in
conjunction with a ‘proper’ radio transmitter
due to the lower power signals being swamped
and so I started building.
Ashley’s German biplane looks really impressive
when viewed from sea level.
82 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
Making a start
What can you build for a six year old that is
cheap, simple and bash-proof? It surely has to
be a landing craft! There is not much else that
floats that has so many flat sides. You don’t
need to find a plan for a generic landing craft.
Pictures are plentiful, and the only thing I had
to do was scale it to fit an Airfix 1/32 polythene
tank in the tank well, and stand plastic Herald
54mm soldiers on the rear deck. It was
constructed from common 4mm ply using PVA
glue and took an afternoon to build on a hot
sunny Sunday. Painting in best undercoat grey
took a few days and there we are! It is powered
by a Como MFA 385 motor and the battery
hides beneath the tank deck. Due to the lack
of space under the rear flat, it has possibly the
world’s shortest prop shaft, cut down to a mere
50mm although amazingly it doesn’t let in as
much water as some of the longer shafts fitted
to some other models. Details were limited to
fenders, made from 6mm dowel and string,
rope hanging off the back, and a few machine
guns made from bamboo BBQ skewers
and card. It goes very well, is reasonably
seaworthy and has stood up to a fair amount
of abuse quite manfully. Paint touch up is quite
straightforward as the only paint on it is light
grey primer!
Ideas, ideas
Moving on, and after building a couple of fairly
ordinary boats, we went to the Imperial War
Museum in London for a visit and collected
the next idea. A Sunderland flying boat, the
inspiration for this was a small card model
(three pieces in all) which looked really good,
despite the small size, it was nicely printed in
Pacific colours, white sides and camouflage
top. I thought about realising a non-flying
model ‘in the square’, similar to the card plane.
Construction is relatively conventional, with thin
ply sides and a balsa top/bottom and balsa
wings, but the novelty for this model is in the
propulsion. Propellers on the wings would
obviously be required and they needed to spin,
as a Sunderland moving along on the water
with stationary props would look silly and after
a bit of searching I found motors and small
props originally intended for a series of foam
www.modelboats.co.uk

An LCT makes a simple but very effective model with lots of interest.
Despite its simple construction, Ashley’s Sunderland flying boat captures the essence of the original very well.
‘park flyer’ type aircraft. These motors are very
small, but rev like demons and the props are
just about the right size as a scale feature. I
was going to use a normal boat propshaft
arrangement, however after trials the air props
appeared to be doing such a good job that
the model was never finished with the water
drive, and uses the air props only; weight was
saved and as an added bonus, both the motor
and propellers were much cheaper than any
conventional drive.
Taking a backwards step
A chance visit to a transport museum tucked
away at Boughton-on-the-water, introduced
me to the next build, and the delights of
rubber power, having seen a rubber powered
Bowman Aeroboat in amongst a group of
boats in a cabinet. This must surely rank up
there along with clockwork (and steam!) as a
www.modelboats.co.uk
LCT 68 is a good on the water performer too.
fundamental source of power for any sort of
model. Investigating this form of propulsion
took a while as there are not a lot of modellers
using it nowadays... I took this build back
to basics and after having built a Bowman-
lookalike craft to get a feel for the rubber
motor I designed a boat to not only increase
the efficiency (rubber to length-of-boat ratio) of
the craft but also to bring the design forward
into the 21st century. To this end a rather
futuristic look was chosen (see picture) and
a mechanism almost contemporary with the
rubber band, Meccano, was used in the drive
to up-gear the rubber motors (two of them).
Unlike electric motors, which are geared
DOWN, rubber motors are geared UP, as
they rotate much more slowly. I made the hull
from a gash piece of 4mm ply (I have a lot of
this lying around the shed) and Araldite, using
a spur of the moment plan and painted in a
UNORTHODOX MODELS
dazzle camouflage scheme. I placed the gears
as far back as possible in order to maximise
rubber motor length, and surely the piece de
resistance is the winding gear. OK, it is a bit
crude, but it is very easy to use. You simply
seat the hull in its cradle and engage with the
gear unit, and wind the handle. Could not be
easier, and makes running the boat a pleasure.
I use the word running, because that`s what
you do all the time, run from one side of the
pond to the other!
It can`t be that difficult
Another model using Meccano is the Toyboata;
a Toyota Hylux converted by Jeremy Clarkson
on the Top Gear TV programme. Another
simple build (you may be seeing the trend
here), using lite-ply this time (for no particular
reason!), just a box with a fake outboard motor
on the rear, and in this feature lay the difficulty.
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 83
The rotating propellers used to power the Sunderland
are clearly seen in this shot.

Most outboard motors for boat use are either

toys or high performance units, and in any case
were much too short for my application. The
answer? A dummy outboard motor! In order
to drive the rear wheels a Meccano worm gear
has been fitted to an extended propeller shaft,
underneath the hull. This drives a Meccano
cog on the wheel axle and gears down this
drive to approx 30:1. Very neat and gives a The Sunderland viewed from water level showing the simplified detailing.
convincing impersonation of an outboard
motor besides adequately turning the rear
wheels. Using a propeller shaft solves the
thorny problem of getting power to the outside
of the boat without letting water in! I have
fitted a fairly powerful speed 600 motor, as
the wheels are driven at the same time as the
propeller, although when the car is in the water
the wheels don`t have a lot to do.
This of course led to a request to make
another Top Gear craft, and so I chose
James May`s Triumph Herald. This is what it The Bowman Aeroboat lookalike on its ‘standwinder’. The winding mechanism for the Aeroboat’s elastic motor.
says on the tin, a car with a sail on the top. It is obvious that there is quite a bit of power stored up
Tricky proposition this, as I had not so far built in there!
anything with a sail and it also needed to look
like a Herald rather than an anonymous yellow
box. Construction was straightforward, using
4mm ply for the carcass and 10mm balsa in
order to allow for sanding to get a bit of shape
to the sides. A mast was made from 9mm
dowel, and after some thought this was sprung
loaded; a heavy spring sits at the bottom of the
brass tube socket and pushes the mast up, so
that it would be easy to string the rigging and
have it remain taut. This time the wheels were
simply dummies, turned from MDF and glued The Aeroboat afloat looking quite similar to a functional The Toyboata based upon Jeremy Clarkson’s
in place. Undoubtedly the best bit is James straight runner. conversion for the Top Gear TV programme.
May, who, after some thought, was made as
a flat ‘flag’ pivoted on the cabin cover and on the bandsaw, to a nice slim ‘battle cruiser’ hull was showing hairline cracks at the joints,
weighted with strip lead. This ensures he stays shape, and fitted with hardboard sides, using perhaps due to different material expansion
upright, but can be pushed under the boom ordinary PVA glue. Initial tests were a bit rates. Not a safety issue, more cosmetic but
when the car changes tack. Looks good, sails disappointing; when loaded with a battery and obviously over time there might be some water
rubbish! motor the hull did not want to stay particularly seeping into the joints and causing weakness
upright, so I cut an oblong out of the bottom or even rot! One of the qualities of hardboard
A much maligned material to accommodate the battery and plated the is its ability to be sanded and sealed to a very
Hardboard; a material possessed of some underneath with an oval of hardboard, and hey smooth and hard finish and on this model it
fairly admirable qualities, and the subject of a presto! No problem in staying upright. Having has been used to full effect with perhaps its
debate one Sunday at the pondside. We also sealed the hull with sanding sealer and painted best feature, the incredibly sharp knife-edge
debated the use of solid pine planks for hull it, it really looked too good to waste and so I under the waterline at the bow. A further model
bottoms, several modellers having vintage fitted running gear and a deck, and modelled in the shape of the battleship HMS Nelson
models using this method of construction. It the superstructure to resemble HMS Glorious, has followed using the same construction, but
seemed to me that a hull was required to test a light battle cruiser from the First World War. this time I have covered the hull in fibreglass
the theories out, and so a specially selected Later on I have had to put a fibreglass ‘belt and resin to forestall any cracks. Thing is, if
piece of 3/4 inch (18mm) pine plank was cut armour’ patch in the centre section, as the you are using fibreglass and resin, you could

84 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 UNORTHODOX MODELS

use almost anything to make a hull out of! Of Simple

interest on this one are the 6 inch gun turrets, construction
cast in a rubber mould, and out of ‘stone resin’ and ingenious
plaster. This is a form of Plaster-of-Paris, but engineering
much finer and harder, and normally used to on the
produce more intricate castings. I used this
Toyboata
grade as I needed to drill holes in the faces
to glue brass (rod) gun barrels into, after this
provided a
they were sealed with several coats of sanding very practical
sealer and paint and I have not had a water solution to
problem with them since fitting. I cast the building an
side turrets as there are six of them to make, effective
and they had to be more or less identical; the working
three main turrets were made from MDF, cut model
on a bandsaw set to the appropriate angle (to
match the slope on the turret faces) and were
fairly easy to match up. Toyboata basic construction.

Those magnificent men

Of all my oddities, I think it is the non-flying
boats that attract the most attention on the
pond when I don’t fly one. Having something
floating about that is not a boat of some kind
is always a draw, and what could be more
different than an aircraft? In the past there
have been boats or submarines, and working
model aircraft (flying boats or sea-planes) but to
think of making a boat in the shape of a plane
must be sheer genius! When you get rid of the
requirement for an aircraft to fly, you also get
rid of the very large power requirement, the low
overall weight and the need for multiple control
surfaces. To follow the Sunderland the lad
wanted a German bi-plane flying boat, so we
applied a bit more imagination, and made one
up! Wings were seen as a bit of an issue at first,
but I realised these could be made very easily
from single sheets of balsa (900mm by 75mm)
pinned together with bamboo BBQ skewers (a
modelling essential if there ever was one), and I The simple but effective driveline mechanism for the Toyboata – what could possibly go wrong?!
used speed 280 motors combined with some
of the propellers I bought for the Sunderland to air propeller similar to a traditional Everglades ‘carpet carrier’. This started out as an aircraft
provide the ‘go’. These have a 2mm bore and style skimmer. I used a new material (for me) in carrier deck made for the lad to put his various
are a simple push fit on the motor shafts. Again the construction of this model, blue Styrofoam: die-cast aircraft (of various scales) on. It was
a water rudder was used for simplicity, and This is great stuff, very easy to work with, can made in the shed using plans from memory
the boat was of the usual box construction of be stuck together with Epoxy or PVA glue (or only, left mostly un-sanded and stuck together
1.5mm ply and balsa, although the bottom was a specialist adhesive) and can by hardened with a hot glue gun. I used an oddment of
later layered with expanded polystyrene sheet by using acrylic varnish or Eze-Kote resin to 9mm ply for the deck, 100x50mm timber for
to increase buoyancy. Plastic 54mm soldiers achieve a smooth finish. the superstructure and card for the ramp all
from a cheap set provide the crew. My usual box carcass was used as a starter cut out and up on my large bandsaw; perhaps
but the top of the hull was covered in the foam, one hour`s work overall. Finished with light grey
The Russian connection so I could curve the top a bit and the complete primer and with a black stripe down the centre
It is the Ekranoplan Orlyonok that has front end was one single piece, carved and of the deck it was just the job and looked
generated the most interest from those boats sanded to shape. Another first was the surprisingly good (considering) once filled with
that I have had published as articles in the brushless motor in the tail, a tiny thing 20mm aircraft and sat on the carpet in the living room!
magazine. It was inspired by watching a in diameter and producing as much power as Sometime after this we went to the RAF
program on the telly by James May (again), a ‘hot’ 540 can size engine. It does take off, museum at Hendon, where I was able to buy
whereby he was looking at Ekranoplan aircraft. if I use a 3-cell LiPo battery, but is much safer 10 Die-cast sea Harrier aircraft ( 3 inch size)
These are planes with short but broad stubby on its normal 9.6v NiMh AA pack, which gives and these looked very nice on the deck, and
wings that fly just above the surface of the adequate performance without worrying about set me wondering if I could make an ‘Invincible’
water in ‘wing in ground effect’ mode. A bit leaving the water and becoming airborne! class carrier able to accommodate these,
like a hovercraft, they use a cushion of air as a proper radio-control job. Using the re-
underneath the wings to stay airborne. It The best until last? jigged dimensions of the carpet carrier deck
struck me that this sort of craft would make an I have saved arguably the best, depending on (dimensions were altered to use the 4 foot
ideal skimmer, and completely different to the your viewpoint, until last. Perhaps barely falling length of ply I had, whilst still looking something
usual sort. I chose the Orlyonok A90 model, a into the model boat category and certainly like an Invincible, but giving room for the various
Russian navy fast transport aircraft, as it has an demonstrating extreme lateral thinking, is the aircraft), a carrier was duly knocked up using

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 85

Components for the Toyboata’s dummy outboard.

balsa and 1.5mm ply construction. This is 4

feet long, in order to fit in the boot of the car
and so is a bit small for the aircraft strictly The business end of Toyboata.
speaking, but it looks adequate on the water. A
chance find was ‘sticky strip’ LED lights, these
run off 12v and can be cut at 50mm intervals,
and were used as deck illumination on the
superstructure, similarly a ridiculously small
motor and brass gearbox was also found, and
this powers one helicopter rotor, regrettably
it doesn’t lift off though! Power comes from
two MFA 850 motors on 12v using X50 mm
props. Does it go! For such a large and heavy
boat, it is very agile and fast, but I digress! A
Type22 frigate, to the same scale was made
afterwards, a fully controlled model in its own
right, to act as an escort for the carrier. In order
to have both boats on the water at the same
time (whilst being on my own) I thought that the
carrier could tow the smaller boat, and so eyes
were set into the rear of the carrier, and front of
the T22 in order to attach, via fishing swivels, a
one metre length of acrylic towing rod. This is
jolly effective, especially in a bit of a breeze as
the ships react very differently in the wind; the
frigate does not appear to be attached to the Toyboata together with another Top Gear wacky conversion, James May’s sailing Triumph Herald. James is on a
carrier unless you are going fairly quickly. pivot and takes a knock as the boom sweeps over when changing tack.

Hardboard; the final chapter
Having had a few bits break off the ‘carpet’
carrier deck, I took it in hand for repairs
and updating, to correct the guessed
superstructure dimensions mostly, and tidying
up with a bit of sanding and repaint (still only
grey undercoat, mind!) and lastly adding deck
markings via an indelible marker. What a
change! It looked almost like a proper model
and I suddenly saw the opportunity to have not
one but TWO aircraft carriers on the pond, all I
needed was a hull...
Question: What is cheap, lays in the shed
in large quantities, and is ideal for making hulls
out of? Hardboard of course! I didn’t want to
buy thin ply or something expensive for this so
hardboard will suffice. Having started this build
in the wrong order i.e. making the deck and
upper-works first, the hull had to be made to
fit the deck and so the deck was positioned
upside down and measurements were taken.
Bulkheads were cut and held with hot-glue
to the underside of the deck, hull sides were
cut and positioned inside the under-deck ‘lip’
and then glued up. Once the glue had set the
bottom was glued in place, trimmed up and
the new hull was separated and turned right
way up; the joints were reinforced with strips
of wood, and the hull below the waterline fibre
glassed ( just in case!). After trials, I found that
because the deck was only resting on the hull,
there was a considerable amount of water
ingress from the bow area. As I could not
permanently join the hull and deck to seal this
joint, I filled the front area with builders foam.
Normally this is a no-no, as the foam expands
considerably and continues to do so gradually
for perhaps a day or so; However, I felt safe as
the top is completely open. After a couple of
days I trimmed this flush and that has cured the
problem as water still gets under the bow but
simply runs off the sides. Yes, it looks a right
mess without the deck in place, but it works a
treat and the mess is not an issue once in the
pond!
More aircraft have been purchased and are
held on the deck with Blu-Tac which works
very well and oddly, considering the size of the
blob of Tac, is not that visible when the carrier is
underway. This method allows repositioning of
aircraft, and of course still leaves the deck free
for carpeting if required. On the ‘proper’ carrier,
the aircraft were drilled underneath to accept
some acrylic rod, and then holes were drilled

86 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk


The Triumph Herald required some carving to achieve
the distinctive shape of the car.
HMS Nelson is a development of the hardboard hull concept, this time sealed with GRP cloth and resin. By
accurately capturing the proportions of the prototype, the model looks remarkably realistic and performs well too.
through the deck and the rod fixed in place
with epoxy underneath the deck. I am not
advocating this approach as a particularly good
method of getting a boat on the water, but it is
certainly an option!
Just how do you do that?
There is something extremely satisfying about
going your own way. To have an unusual
and unorthodox model at the pond side to
wow the public and fellow modellers with is
a feeling that can`t be beaten. You have to
have the inspiration of course, and this can
come from various sources. Sometimes I just
‘fancy’ something, or have suggestions thrust
upon me; I see something on the telly or in a
magazine, or build variations on a theme, e.g.
my various flying boats. I then mull over these
ideas for a bit, gather pictures and read up a
bit, do some research. Then I talk over these
ideas with various people, at the pond or at
work (sometimes talking to non-modellers can
be very enlightening!). Technical difficulties have
to be thought through before starting the build,
for instance, obtaining wheels in the right size
for an amphibious wheeled model (how about
www.modelboats.co.uk
UNORTHODOX MODELS
The propulsion and steering arrangements on the sailing The ‘large light cruiser’ HMS Glorious resulted from an
Triumph Herald. The model exhibited the same sort of experiment in building a hull from a pine bottom plank
performance as the original! and hardboard sides.
making a simple water only Alvis Stalwart ?),
special mechanisms, machinery space, access
and so on.
Do I use plans for these models? Not really,
a full size sketch is about the most I could claim
to use, a blown up drawing from the internet or
an enlarged set of photos usually. I rarely stick
to these ‘plans’ anyway as everything is subject
to change depending on what problems I A close up of HMS Nelson’s superstructure which
come up against. Ultimately, a bit of experience features secondary armament turrets cast from stone
is handy to have, both for the execution of the resin plaster.
modelling and at the end game, getting it all to
work. Some models I have built, the Toyboata
for instance, did not need any modifications to
get going properly (other than a bit of tightening
up of screws!) whereas others have needed
significant tinkering to perform. Experience is
only gained by building. Don’t forget, unless
you have a go, you will never know.
Regarding materials; nothing is out of
bounds; almost anything can be used and
can be made waterproof and strong enough
although obviously some materials are more
suitable than others! You do not have to The German biplane seaplane makes a really colourful
purchase exotic materials for most builds, and unusual marine modelling subject and is fun to
I use thin ply and balsa from model shops, operate as well.
WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 87
Getting the balance and buoyancy right to achieve This Park 370 brushless motor gives the Ekranoplan the The Ekranoplan Orlyonok at full power on 9.6 volts.
a realistic looking performance needed a lot of power it needs. LiPos will make it take off but of course that wouldn’t
adjustments and minor modifications to the Ekranoplan. be realistic!

or 4mm ply from wood yards, and this does

me for most things while PVA of some sort
is adequate for sticking things together.
Look around and use your imagination.
Haberdashery shops are a great source of
small fittings for sailing ships; hooks and eyes,
threads of all sorts, and literally hundreds of
rolls of material.
Material not only for sails, but awnings on
warships and amphibious vehicles, camouflage
netting for DUKW`s or Landwasserschleppers.
Fishing tackle shops have a good range of
swivels and small fittings, not to mention
stainless trace for rigging (Top Gear Herald!).
Builder’s merchants can supply pipes of all
sizes for submarine bodies etc, expanded
polystyrene, plumbing fittings in plastic and
copper for, say, ships vents and cowls, Art
shops for polystyrene balls for ship`s satellite
domes; the list goes on and on.
Whatever next will I build? (I can`t possibly
say, other than it will certainly be different!), I
hope this has given you something to think
about when it comes to choosing your next The revolutionary dual purpose ‘Carpet Carrier’ seen here in a flat calm on parquet flooring. A really imaginative
project Think laterally, is there something that ‘Boy’s Toy’ built by Ashley for his son.
you have seen that piques your interest? If so
then just use your imagination and turn it into
reality?
(Ashley is a regular poster on the Model
Boats Website Forum on the ‘Today’s Boating’
Topic which chronicles his latest ideas and
practical tests www.modelboats.co.uk – Ed)

The working underpinnings for the ‘Carpet Carrier’ which allow it to go to sea for real. The bow compartments have
now been filled in with foam to prevent leakage – see text.

The purpose built HMS Invincible showing the LED Harrier aircraft acquired at the Hendon RAF Museum Invincible (background) and the ‘Carpet Carrier’, now
striplight deck lighting. This model is a powerful and are mounted on Invincible’s flight deck on lengths of designated as HMS Illustrious in seagoing mode, make
effective performer on the pond. transparent perspex rod – another neat touch by Ashley. a fine sight together.

88 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

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A Celebration
of the Sixties
Some evocative images from the past which will bring back memories for many readers.
Previous Special issues have included material
taken from the Model Boats/Model Maker
‘back catalogue’ which many readers have
found to bring back fond memories. Although
this issue is mainly concerned with the current
boat modelling scene, the opportunity has
been taken to introduce a dash of nostalgia
with these pages.
In days gone by, good photographic
reproduction was difficult in the all black and
white magazine format with its rather ‘muddy’
low contrast images, but the prevailing printing
90 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING
techniques did permit drawings and plans to
be reproduced to a very high quality indeed.
A representative selection of these drawings
is reproduced here. Contributors such as R.A
Sweet, Michael Ainsworth, Cdr. R Moore RN,
Norman Ough, Arthur O. Pollard and others
all produced drawings and plans on a regular
basis, often with supporting articles. These
covered a bewildering variety of subjects,
all stuffed with invaluable drawn and textual
information which is as valid today as when it
was originally published, sometimes more so
as the passing of time often results in loss of
period insight and detail.
The mid 1960s were also the heyday
of the wonderful cover paintings by artist
Laurie Bagley and so we are including some
examples of his work to set the mood for this
rich and unique era of model boating material.
In a digital age when anyone can take photos
with their mobile phone, Laurie’s illustrations,
based on the content of the magazine, still
capture the essence of their subject in a way
which digital images can rarely hope to match.
www.modelboats.co.uk
 OLD
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PLANS
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AND
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COVE
COVERS
RS

Free plans were often supplemented with constructional illustrations as

here with Joshua Slocum’s ‘Spray’ drawn by R.A Sweet.

cable ship Retriever.

. Sweet, in this case of the
A typical drawing by R.A

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOA

BOATING
OATIN
TING
G 9
91
1
 One of Arthur O. Pollard’
s drawings. This is the 195
9 motor tug Dhulia.

in this instance the

ted many naval subjects,
Cdr R. Moore RN contribu esw eepers of WW1.
class paddle min
interesting Racecourse

92 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 OLD
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The sad condition of PS

Ryde in 2009 after
many years laid up in th
the Ri
River Medina.
e very mini plan, this
Ryde and Sandown wer Another Arthur O. Pollard
The Isle of Wight ferries d as a boy.
n which your Editor saile dle tug Seaham.
pon
l upo
attractive vessels time of the pad

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 93

M.V. Steyning was typical
of the 1960s plans
but now no longer availab
le.

of the classic
The 1960s saw a reprint
deta il draw ings from Norman
warship
funn el deta ils.
Ough, in this case

S Pegasus.
WW1 seaplane carrier HM
Moore’s drawings, this time of the
Another of Commander

94 WORLD OF MODEL BOATING www.modelboats.co.uk

 OLD
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Michael Ainsworth’s seri

es on ‘Fighting Fleets’ inclu
naval subjects. ded a wide variety of
ign from 1965.
Vic Smeed patrol boat des
Antares is a little known

Arthur O. Pollard’s mini plan of the sailing

barge Dreadnought.

Norman Ough’s plans also included complete

warships such as this one of the cruiser HMS
Penelope.

An intriguing concept from the 1965 Model

Maker Annual. Build it and see if it works!

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 95

CLASSIFIED - To advertise in Model Boats magazine or any of our special issues, call Ben Rayment on 01689 869 851

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SHEET and STRIPWOOD in both METRIC and IMPERIAL sizes

For lists S.A.E. to

Dennis Nixon
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www.twigfolly.com

LEICESTERSHIRE
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Tel/Fax +44 (0)115 854 8791 Email: info@modelfixings.com

www.modelboats.co.uk WORLD OF MODEL BOATING 96

 with
1959 to 1977, seen here
Vic Smeed, Editor from
model boa ting designs
Genie, one of his many

R. A. Sweet also tackled sailing vessels as shown here.

In this drawing of the sail training ship Sir Winston Churchill, R. A. Sweet
demonstrates how to get as much information as possible into the space available.
98
8 WORL
WOR
WORLD
LD OF
LD F MODEL
MODEL BOA
MOD BOATIN
BOATING
TING
TING www.modelboats.co.uk
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