Gecho IIGM Internship Report

Application of Maintenance in Apparel Industries 2018
Contents pages
Chapter-1 .......................................................................................................... 1
1.Introduction and Objective ............................................................................ 1
1.1. Company Profile .......................................................................................... 1
1.2. Management of Organization Stricture .................................................... 3
1.3. Objectives ..................................................................................................... 4
1.4. Scope ............................................................................................................. 4
Chapter-2 .......................................................................................................... 5
2. Literature Review ........................................................................................... 5
2.1. Introduction ................................................................................................. 5
2.2. History of the sewing machine.................................................................... 5
2.4. Maintenance definition ............................................................................. 12
2.6. Types of maintenance systems .................................................................. 13
Chapter -3....................................................................................................... 18
3. Findings ......................................................................................................... 18
3.1. Understanding the Part of Sewing Machine ........................................... 19
3.2. Standard Adjustments of single needle sewing machine........................ 21
3.4. Standard Adjustments of over lock machine .......................................... 29
3.5. In Apparel Manufacturing Processes, symptom root cause and
corrective action of maintenance..................................................................... 33
4. Summary .................................................................................................... 40
5. Reference…….……………………………………………………………...….…41
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Chapter-1
1.Introduction and Objective
1.1. Company Profile
IIGM (India Industrial Garment Machines Pvt. Ltd.) pioneered to

create an environment to bring in the best technology for world class
manufacturing. Providing total apparel manufacturing solution since 1979.
In a span of three decades, IIGM has emerged as India’s leading garment
technology company, and the single most comprehensive source for apparel
machinery in the country.
IIGM not only provides customized solutions to all its clients, large and
small, but strives to make these solutions cost-effective. And not just in
terms of equipment supplied, but also in terms of professional guidance and
systemized support. IIGM has more than 5000 clients countrywide. They
service a wide spectrum of the industry, covering knit wear, woven, made-
ups, leather goods, bags of HDPE (High-density polyethylene) and jute,
furniture, car seat covers and other specialized sewn product applications.
Among our established clients, some of the top names to whom we are a
comprehensive and preferred supplier are: - GGT, EASTMAN, O’TECH,
KM AND WASTEMA (In cutting section), JUKI, PEGASUS, UNION
SPECIAL, KANSAI SPECIAL (In sewing section), NGAI SHING (In
finishing section), BARUDAN (In Embroidery section) and other special
purpose machines like MAYER, PRYM, HASHIMA and TONNELLO etc.
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IIGM has its head office at Bangalore and branches at Delhi, Bombay,
Chennai, Tirupur, Hyderabad, Jaipur, Ludhiana, Ahmedabad, Surat, Indore,
Jordan, Ethiopia and Bangladesh. It has technical training centers at
Bangalore and Delhi.
IIGM is currently providing a wide range of services to various

industries worldwide.
IIGM is a leading distributor in EAE Electrical Products with 2000+

satisfied customers across the continent. They serve the textile, hospitality,
healthcare, pharma, telecom, transportation industries & IT parks. Turnkey
consultancy from layout designs to installations is provided. A range of
products from bus bars, cable trays, lighting automation, cooling
solutions, skylights and other system integrator solutions provided.
Most reliable spare parts delivered at the right time with the right price.
Technical expertise to identify requirements in spare parts and consumables.
IIGM e-store helps to make bulk purchases online at competitive price.
They believe in asset care with a strategy to provide international

standard services to its clientele across South East Asia & the Middle East.
Their internationally trained engineers are capable of handling wide range
of machines on-site. The variety of training programs provided for all
disciplines of garment production. Ideal ambiance with hostel and state-of
-the- art facility for students.
Bring industry owner vision to life. Specialized in making companies

conceptualize, create and compete in the industry. 35-year experience
in factory setup and re- engineering.
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World class technology provided for all types of laundry applications

including hospitals, hotels, hospitality, railways, military and commercial
launderettes. Products from national and international companies offered to
cover all sizes & applications for all your laundry needs.
Consistent Quality is their commitment to industry owner. To provide

refined quality paper products in various forms at affordable prices. High
quality paper is sourced from the best mills keeping in mind the technical
requirements of the cutting room
1.2. Management of Organization Stricture
MANAGING
DIRECTOR
CHIEF
EXECUTIVE
OFFICER (CEO)
GENERAL
MANAGING
MANAGER OF MANAGER OF
HUMAN
MARKETING SERVICE AND
RESOURCE
TRAINING
Chart 1. Management team
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1.3. Objectives
The main objectives of the report are:

 To learn and practice sewing machine and their maintenance.
 To know important sewing machine maintenance is the establishment of
safe working conditions both for operating and maintenance personnel.
1.4. Scope
The report is delimited to describe the challenges and available sewing

machine in value chain of apparel industry with a span from designing to
retailing.
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Chapter-2
2. Literature Review
2.1. Introduction
In this intense apparel manufacturing business competition, one of

the competitive edges of any firm is maintenance of the system reliability,
i.e. availing a production system equipped with equipment’s with
maximum availability and quality output.
And the reliability of a system can be improved and enhanced through

proper maintenance practice.
2.2. History of the sewing machine
The democratization of fashion began with the invention of the sewing

machine, which turned a handicraft into an industry. The sewing machine
made the mass production of clothing possible. In 1829, a French tailor
named Thimmonier patented a wooden chain-stitch sewing machine, but all
existing models were destroyed by rioting tailors who feared for their jobs.
Walter Hunt, an American, developed a sewing machine in 1832 but failed
to patent it. Thus, the man who is usually credited with its invention is Elias
Howe, who patented his in 1846. All of Howe’s machines were run by hand.
In 1859, Isaac Singer, whose name has become a household word

because of his mass production of the sewing machine. He developed the
foot treadle, an improvement that left the hands free to guide the fabric, and
mass-produced these machines. Singer spent $1 million a year on sales
promotion and, by 1867, was producing a thousand machines per day
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(Electrically powered models were not available until1921). To save time

and to keep control over
production, entrepreneurs brought workers and machinery together in

factories. This caused many people in search of work to move to the cities
where the factories were located.
In 1849, when the Gold Rush attracted thousands of men in California

in search of gold, a 20- year old Bavarian immigrant by the name of Levi
Strauss opened a dry goods store in San Francisco. In 1873 he began to
manufacture long-wearing pants with riveted pockets, using a tough cotton
fabric called serge de Nimes. (Loomed in Nimes, France), later shortened
to denim. They are an item of wearing apparel that has remained basically
the same for nearly 150 years.
Another early use for sewing machines was to make Civil War uniforms.
The Union army recorded the chest a height measurement of more than a
million soldiers to come up with the first standardization of sizes. After the
war, sewing machines and uniform sizing promoted the mass production of
everyday men’s wear.
• The sewing machine concept and plan has been implemented by an London
based scientist Mr. Thomas Saint in the year 1790.
• Mr. Elias Howe a great mechanical engineer from America designed a lock
stitch machine during the year 1834.
• Mr. W.G. Wilson of America has been developed and modified the lock
stitch machine in the year 1836.
• Mr. Barthelemy thimmonier of France invented the chain stitch machine in
the year 1840.
• Mr. Issac M. Singer of America has found the general form of modern
sewing machine in the year 1851.
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In olden days, people were stitching the fabric by hand with the help of
needle and thread. After a few years, people were exposed to the modern
world and started to research and invent a sewing method as fast and easy.
During the year 1900 with advanced technical improvement on the

sewing machines, people invented sewing machines for different operations
like button holing, button stitching, overlock, feed off arm etc.… These
machines were operated by electrical power and were very fast. As the
technology improves all over the world, each country started manufacturing
different types of sewing machines. In India we manufacture different types
of domestic sewing machines.
2.2.1. Classification of sewing machine based on application level
Based on application levels they are used for, sewing machines are
categorized as domestic and industrial sewing machines.
A. Domestic Sewing machines
Domestic sewing machines, also called portable or home sewing

machines, are those sewing machines with the following common features.
• They are slower, stitching no more than 1500 stitch per minute. Hence,
they are less productive.
• They make more than one operations, like straight and zigzag stitches.
Hence, they are multipurpose.
• They have no knee lift or other separate pedal lifting mechanism for presser
foot. They have only manual or presser foot lifting lever. Most of them are
mechanical, not electrically powered.
• They are economical and suitable for home level or for small scale
production system.
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B. Industrial Sewing Machine
They are much faster, stitching from 3000 to 6000 stitches per minute
for lockstitch and up to 8000spm for chainstitch sewing machines. Hence,
they are more productive.
• Most of them make only one operation. For example, basic sewing
machines make only straight stitch, and zigzag sewing machines only make
zigzag stitches.
• They have knee lift or other separate pedal lifting mechanism for presser
foot in addition to manual or presser foot lifting lever.
• The presser foot has a narrow opening between toes, and holds the fabric
more firmly than the all-purpose domestic ones.
• The needle hole on the throat plate is small and round for industrial sewing
machines instead of large and oval as on most domestic ones.
• This reduces stitching problems.
• They are electrically powered.
• They are economical and suitable for industry level or for large scale
production system.
2.2.2. Classification of sewing based on stitch types
Based on the type of stitches they make, mechanical sewing machines

are broadly classified as lockstitch sewing machines, chainstitch or loop
stitch sewing machines, and Hand stitch sewing machines.
A. Lockstitch sewing machines
A lockstitch is the most common mechanical stitch made by a sewing

machine, and hence; a lockstitch sewing machine is the most common
mechanical sewing machine employed in garment and apparel industries.
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The lockstitch uses two threads, an upper and a lower. Lockstitch is so

named because the two threads, upper and lower, "lock" (entwine) together
in the hole in the fabric which they pass through. The upper thread runs
from a spool kept on a spindle on top of or next to the machine, through a
tension mechanism, through the take-up arm, and finally through the hole
in the needle. Meanwhile the lower thread is wound onto a bobbin, which
is inserted into a case in the lower section of the machine below the material
To make one stitch, the machine lowers the threaded needle through the
cloth into the bobbin area, where a rotating hook (or other hooking
mechanism) catches the upper thread at the point just after it goes through
the needle. The hook mechanism carries the upper thread entirely around
the bobbin case, so that it has made one wrap of the bobbin thread. Then
the take-up arm pulls the excess upper thread (from the bobbin area) back
to the top, forming the lockstitch. Then the feed dogs pull the material along
one stitch length, and the cycle repeats.
Ideally, the lockstitch is formed in the center of the thickness of the

material that is to say: ideally the upper thread entwines the lower thread in
the middle of the material. The thread tensions mechanisms, one for the
upper thread and one for the lower thread, prevent either thread from pulling
the entwine point from out of the middle of the material.
a. Lockstitch with rotary hook b. Lockstitch with boat shuttle c.

Lockstitch
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The geometry of the lockstitch is controlled by the presence or absence

of the sideways movements of the machine's needle, and the backwards
movements of the machine's feed dogs. The needle and feed motion is
controlled by mechanical cams. In more recent designs, the needle and feed
motion are directly motorized.
2.3. Feeding mechanism
Material feed is the controlled movement of the material being sewn

from one stitch position to the next. Feed systems usually work on the
underside of the material but can also operate above or from both sides at the
same time, depending on the need to avoid particular problem in sewing. Some
among different feeding mechanisms available for sewing fabrics are
Manual feed, Feed dog, Drop feed, Needle Feed (Upper pivot needle Feed,
Central pivot needle Feed, Parallel drive needle Feed), Wheel feed, Rotary
feed, Upper Feed (Vibrating Presser Foot, Alternating Presser Foot, Top
Feed, Jump Foot, Walking Foot, Spring action asking Foot, Driven walking
Foot, Wheel feed).
A. Drop/bottom feed
The simplest sewing machine feed system, and still the commonest, is
known as the drop feed or the bottom feed, it is also known as the regular
feed. The three machine parts that constitute the drop feed or regular feed
are the pressure foot, the throat plate or needle plate and the feed dog. Drop
Feed is the basic material feed system where the feed dog alternately
engages and disengages with the underside of material and is suitable for
general sewing operations on any material which has no particular sewing
problems. It is applicable to a wide range of sewing such as run-stitching,
top- stitching, sharp curve sewing, and sewing of small articles.
B. Differential bottom feed
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Differential bottom feed is a differential feed which utilizes two

independently driven feed dogs, oriented one behind the other and centering
at the needle. The stroke of each feed dog can be adjusted separately. If the
stroke of front feed dog is greater than the back-feed dog, the fabric may be
stretched to provide a more stretchable seam. There are two types of
differential feeds, series and parallel differentials.
C. Needle feed
Needle feed is the feed system in which the needle itself moves forwards
and backwards. The needle enters the fabric, moves back with it as it is
moved along to begin the next stitch. It is available on lock stitch machines.
The three main types of needle feed mechanisms are: the upper pivot,
the central pivot, and the parallel drive. The pivoting needle feed
mechanisms move the needle at an angle to help the material through the
machine, while parallel drives only move the needle back and forth. The
working mechanisms in pivoting needle feeds, though it seems to disturb
the material and the stitching process, but in practice it does not, except
with thicker or heavier materials. The mechanism involved in a parallel
drive makes for a more expensive unit and will generally have a slower
stitching speed, and it is the type of needle feed suitable for stitching the
heaviest and thickest of materials.
Needle feeding system is particularly useful in bulky sewing situations

such as when quilting through the fabric and wadding. It is also used for
stitching slippery fabric as well as heavy material like leather, carpet etc.
They are good at preventing the layers of materials from slipping, which
can be especially important for slick fabrics. Also, they do not leave any
mark on delicate fabric, for they do not put pressure on the fabric the way
feed dogs do.
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D.Variable top and bottom feed
The general arrangement of such top feed is that the presser foot is in
two sections, one holding the fabric in position while the needle forms the
stitch and the other (feeding foot) having teeth on the lower side and moving
or walking in such a way that the top ply is taken along positively while
needle is out of the material. The variable top feed could be either before
the needle, when the feeding foot acts along the presser foot, or after the
needle, when the feeding foot operates behind the needle to deliver
especially smooth seams. The amount of feed of the bottom and top feed
dogs are respectively adjustable.
2.4. Maintenance definition
A British standard (BS 3811-1984) has defined maintenance as follows:
The combination of all technical and associated administrative actions

intended to retain an item in or restore it to a state in which it can perform
its required functions.
Maintenance is the routine and recurring process of keeping a particular

machine or asset in its normal operating condition so that it can deliver its
expected performance or service without causing any loss or tune on
account of accidental damage or breakdown. In other words, maintenance
means the work that is to be done, to keep the equipment/system in a
running condition such that it can be utilized to its full designed capacity
and efficiency for maximum amount of time.
2.5. Maintenance objectives

The most important objective of the maintenance function is the
maximization of availability or equipment or facilities so as to extend help
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in achieving the ultimate goals of the organization. Another important

objective of maintenance is the establishment of safe working conditions
both for operating and maintenance personnel.
Elimination of future Prevent breakdown

defects during during operation.
operation.
Ensure safety
Reduce rapid
wear of Maximum
components Availability
Maximum
through
operation
minimum cost
Enhance efficiency
performance
level
Reduce down times

Reduce
maintenance cost
Chart 2. Objectives of maintenance
2.6. Types of maintenance systems
Basically, maintenance approaches can be divided in to two groups:
- Breakdown maintenance
- Planned maintenance
And planned maintenance can further be subdivided into the following
- Scheduled maintenance
- Preventive maintenance
- Corrective maintenance
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- Condition based monitoring

- Reliability centered maintenance
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Maintenance System
Planned Maintenance Unplanned Maintenance
Preventive Corrective
Maintenance Maintenance
Running Shutdown Breakdown

Maintenance Maintenance maintenance
Scheduled Condition Reliability based Repair Replacement Overhauling

maintenance based Maintenance
Chart 3. Maintenance system
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A. Planned maintenance
The planned maintenance is an organized type or maintenance, which takee

eare of other aspects such as control and record8 required r this type of work.
Under this type of maintenance, the work is planned beforehand to avoid
random failures. It decides not only the 'when' and 'what' of maintenance
work, but also by whom, it would be undertaken.
B. Preventive Maintenance
Preventive maintenance, unlike corrective maintenance, is the practice of

replacing components or subsystems before they fail in order to promote
continuous system operation. The schedule for preventive maintenance is
based on observation of past system behavior, component wear-out
mechanisms and knowledge of which components are vital to continued
system operation. Cost is always a factor in the scheduling of preventive
maintenance. In many circumstances, it is financially more sensible to
replace parts or components that have not failed at predetermined intervals
rather than to wait for a system failure that may result in a costly disruption
in operations.
Preventive maintenance (PM) is a schedule of planned maintenance actions

aimed at the prevention of breakdowns and failures. The primary goal of
preventive maintenance is to prevent the failure of equipment before it
actually occurs. It is designed to preserve and enhance equipment reliability
by replacing worn components before they actually fail. Preventive
maintenance activities include equipment checks, partial or complete
overhauls at specified periods, oil changes, lubrication and so on. In
addition, workers can record equipment deterioration so they know to
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replace or repair worn parts before they cause system failure. Recent
technological advances in tools for inspection and diagnosis have enabled
even more accurate and effective equipment maintenance. The ideal
preventive maintenance program would prevent all equipment failure
before it occurs.
C. Value of Preventive Maintenance
There are multiple misconceptions about preventive maintenance. One such

misconception is that PM is unduly costly. This logic dictates that it would
cost more for regularly scheduled downtime and maintenance than it would
normally cost to operate equipment until repair is absolutely necessary. This
may be true for some components; however, one should compare not only
the costs but the long-term benefits and savings associated with preventive
maintenance. Without preventive maintenance, for example, costs for lost
production time from unscheduled equipment breakdown will be incurred.
Also, preventive maintenance will result in savings due to an increase of
effective system service life.
Long-term benefits of preventive maintenance include:
• Improved system reliability.
• Decreased cost of replacement.
• Decreased system downtime.
• Better spares inventory management.
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Chapter -3
3. Findings
Many studies have shown that, maintenance to manufacturing process

will improve and facilitate the scalability, maximization of availability or
equipment so as to extend help in achieving the ultimate goals of the
manufacturing in general. Because, today’s business world is characterized
by fast changeovers, shorter lead time, cost efficient high-quality products,
etc. and all these requirements along with other factors like flexible
manufacturing system, calls for modern maintenance solutions that are
more alert and able to get-up with those exchanges efficiently.
IIGM (India Industrial Garment Machines Pvt. Ltd.) pioneered to

create an environment to bring in the best technology for world class
manufacturing and providing total apparel manufacturing solution by give
different service like sewing maintenance, CAD & embroider software as
well as TOT trainings.
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3.1. Understanding the Part of Sewing Machine
Fig. 1. sewing machine parts.

Table 3.1. Terminology of sewing machine parts
Part name Definition of each parts
The working surface of the machine under winch is

Bed located the mechanism at handles the lower thread. On a
flatbed machine, the bed rests in the cut-out of the table.
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Belt The circular strap that transmits motion from the pulley
to the hand wheel, allowing the machine to operate.
Oil gauge The part that Indicates the amount of oil in self-oiling
machines.
Pan The metal pans. under the head that catches oil, lint and
metal shards. On self-lubricating machines, it holds the
oil.
Presser bar The bar to which the presser foot is attached.
Presser bar A lever at the back of presser bar to raise and lower the
lifter presser foot by hand.
It is used to raise the presser foot when winding a bobbin
and when not stitching. (Its use is discouraged in
industrial sewing because it wastes time and energy).
Presser foot A device that holds the fabric in place for stitching.
Pressure Control that regulates the amount of pressure on the

regulator (pressure dial) presser foot.
Pretension A simple tension disc used to regulate the thread so that
it will feed into needle.
Pulley the tension
The wheel attached assembly
to the motor. evenly.
It transmits motion
from the motor to the hand wheel by means of a leather
Rotary hook belt.the bobbin case.
The part that holds
assembly
Shuttle An oscillating device that carries the needle thread
around the bobbin and forms the “lock” on the
Slack thread A metal hook orlockstitch.
bar near the tension discs.
regulator
Slack thread A metal hook or bar near the tension discs.
regulator
Slide plate A removable cover at the left of the machine bed that bed
allows access to the lower mechanism.
Sole The bottom part of the presser foot that contracts the
cloth.
Stand .
A metal structure upon which the table is mounted.
Stitch hole The hole in the throat plate. The needle carries the thread
into the hole so that it can interlock with the bobbin
20 thread.
Stitch A device that regulates stitch length.

regulator
Power switch A key or button that turns the machine on and off.
3.2. Standard Adjustments of single needle sewing machine
Table 3.2. Technical Specification of single needle sewing machine
Model Name Juki-DDL-5550 or 8700

Types of machine Single needle normal
Machine speed 3500-4500/

Motor used 300, 1/3 HP, Single Phase, Clutch Motor /500-
Watt, 50 HZ, Single Phase
Application of For Medium Weight Fabric
Machine
Belt and Pulley 41” V Belt, 90 mm pulley.
Size
Lubrication Automatic
Oil Using New Defrix Grade No. 1 oil
Stitch Length 0 – 4mm
Presser Foot Lift By hand 5.5mm and by knee 13mm
Advantages High speed, thread Trimming, wiping and
pawer saving.
Types of stitch Lock stiches
Types of feeding Drop feeding
Pully used 90mm of pull diameter
Needle used DBX1/DAX1
Type of bed Flat bed
1. Needle bar height

• By rotating the hand wheel bring the needle bar to the bottom most position,
• Loose the screw of the needle bar holder assembly screw,
• Then match the 1st mark of needle bar to the bush surface when using DAX1
needle or match 3rd mark of the needle to the bush surface when we used
DBX1 needle and tight the needle bar screw.
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2. Hook timing and clearance

• Loose hook set screws and while moving the needle bar up,
• Match the second mark of the needle bar to the bush surface for DAX1
needle or match 4th mark of the needle to the bush surface when using
DBX1 needle,
• The same time bring the hook tip to the center of needle scarf and keep 0.05
mm clearance between the hook tip and needle scarf and then
• Tighten the hook set screws.
3. Feed dog height
• Bring the feed dog to the top most position by rotating the hand wheel.
• Loosen the screw of the feed dog height and adjust which is feed shaft.
• And then adjust the height of the feed dog so that feed dog teeth raise up to
0.7 to 1 mm above the throat plate.
Fig 2 Feed dog height

4. Feed dog centering
• Keeping the stitch length to zero.
• Loosen the screw of the feed dog centering adjuster which is one the feed
crank.
• And then adjust exactly the feed dog so that feed dog is at the center of the
throat plat grooves insuring that feed dog will not touch the throat plate
edges.
5.Feed Timing Adjustment

• Loosen the screws no.3 & A of the feed eccentric cam which is on the
main shaft.
• Adjust the feed dog timing so that, when the needle is coming down,
needle hole should align with the throat plat surface.
• And also make sure feed dog is align to the throat plat surface.
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Fig 3 Feeding timing

6. Stitch regulatory fixing method
• First fully tighten the penetrating rod (stitch regulating rod) completely, so
that the back lever will not move up and down and
• The stitch regulator and tighten its screw just by keeping stitch pointer to
zero and making its stopper also setting to the stopper pin.
7. Take-up lever removing and fixing method
• Removing take-up lever, connecter, bearing and other parts,
• While fixing back see that 1st screw of the take-up lever is tighten on the
take-up groove and
• Then tight the 2nd screw and fixing back other parts.
8. Presser foot pressure and oil supply adjustment to needle bar
• The standard presser foot presser will be obtained by keeping 29-32mm gap
between regulator top edge.
• By rotating the oil supply adjusting screw which is on the counter weight
clock wise or anti clock wise, so that we can increase or decrease the oil
supply adjustment to needle bar.
9. Oil supply adjustment to hook set
• By adjusting the screw of the oil supply adjuster (which is on hook shaft)
clock wise or anti clock wise we can increase or decrease the oil supply to
hook set.
10. Take-up spring stroke adjustment method
• Loosing screw no. 2 and move tension post clock wise or anti-clockwise
direction so that we get 6 or 7mm stroke for take up spring.
11. Main shaft replacement method
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• Loose the screws which are on the counter weight from the top of the
machine.
• Removing the backside cover and loosen the screws of the gears, collars,
eccentric cam and belt guard.
• Tap the main shaft from the counter weight side so that shaft comes out side
but ensure that before removing the shaft making a small drawing of a main
shaft and
• Its relative comments so that while fixing no confusing.
• Slightly tap the main shaft by Teflon hammer so that scratches and damages
can be avoided.
12. Power transmission in the machine
• In the sewing machine power initially transmits with the help of motor
through belt, pully method, gear method, feed eccentric method, crank
method, timing bet method, counter weight method.
3.3. Standard Adjustments of single needle computerized sewing machine
Table 3.3. Technical Specification of single needle computerized sewing machine
Model Name Juki-DDL-5550-7WB-CP133

Types of machine computerized machine and with trimmer
system.
Machine speed 4500 – 5000 SPM
Motor used 300, 1/3 HP, Single Phase, Clutch Motor
/500-Watt, 50 HZ, Single Phase
Application of For Medium Weight Fabric
Machine
Belt and Pulley 41” V Belt, 90 mm pulley.
Size
Stitch Length 0 – 5mm
Presser Foot Lift By hand 5.5mm and by knee 13mm
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Advantages High speed, thread Trimming, wiping and

pawer saving.
Types of stitch Lock stiches
Types of feeding Drop feeding
Needle used DBX1/DAX1
Type of bed Flat bed
1. Hand wheel fixing method
• As machine equipped with magnetic synchronizer behind the hand wheel,

we have to fix the first screw of the handwheel to the main shaft groove as
shown in the figure then tighten the 2nd screw.
Fig 4 hand wheel fixing method

2. Needle up and down position
• Tight the 1st screw on the slot identification point is keep straight to the 1st
hole of hand wheel.
A. Up Position
• When we trim the thread by pressing the pedal in reverse direction, the
needle bar will go up, at the same time white dot mark of the handwheel
should match with red dot mark of the machine, adjust by magnetic sensor
screw no.2.
• If not, there is a possibility of needle or trimmer to get damaged.
B. Down Position
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• When we stop pressing the pedal during sewing without trimming, the
needle bar will stop down, at the same time needle scarf should match with
throat plate surface, adjust by magnetic sensor screw no.1.
• If not, there is a possibility of needle or trimmer damage.
3.Moving and counter knife adjustment
• After removing the presser foot, throat plate and feed dog, loosen screw
no.1 of the counter knife and keep 0.2 – 0.5 mm gap between counter knife
edge and pressing plate.
• To adjust the moving knife stroke, loosen nut no.6 of the moving knife
connector and see that the moving knife edge is matching with the marker
line on the machine casting, so that we can achieve 3.5 mm gap between
moving knife tip to the needle entry point.
4. Wiper adjustment
• Loosen the screw no.5 of the wiper stick and keep 2 mm gap between needle
tip and wiper stick when wiper actuating.
• And also adjust the angular movement of the wiper.
5. Picking and thread trimming cam timing adjustment

A. Picking adjustment
• Loosen the nut no. 1 of the picker connector to adjust the stroke of the picker,
so that after thread trimming minimum 5cm of thread should remain in
bobbin case, so that needle will catch the bobbin thread during next sewing.
• This can also be adjusted by losing the two screws of the picker bracket and
ensure that picker is holding the bobbin while thread trimming.
• Adjust this by matching white mark to red mark and pulling the solenoid
towards left side.
B. Trimmer cam timing adjustment
1. Loosen the two screws of the trimmer cam which is fitted to the lower shaft
of the machine.
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2. Match red dot mark of the handwheel to the red dot mark of the machine
casting.
3. With center finger lift 2nd screw of the cam to the up and push the follower
inside the cam’s groove by thumb and then bring back the 2nd screw down.
By pushing cam right side so that there will not be any gap between trimmer
cam and collar.
4. Then tighten the trimmer cam screws.
C. VERIFICATION
• Push the follower inside by matching the white and red mark and then rotate
handwheel in reverse direction so, that, the hand wheel will lock when red
and red matches.
• If it matches then the adjustment of the trimmer cam will be perfect.
6.Introduction of the computerized single needle machine
A. With servo motor
• Mechanically these machines are similar to any ordinary single needle
machine, the adjustments like bar ht., hook timing, feed timing will be the
same.
• But the main advantages of using these machines are that we can save
power as we use servo motor (up to 30 %), the machine runs at very high
speed up to 5500 spm, since it has got automatic thread trimming system
we can automatically trim the thread just by pressing the pedal in reverse
direction, by this we can save sewing thread, trimming time, wiping time
and
• Increases productivity.
B. Working procedure of the control of box
• As we input the programmed on the control panel the panel helps to feed
the signals to control box and at the control box the signals will further pass
to the mechanical parts like solenoids, trimmers, wipers and synchronizer
with the help of electronic components like microprocessor, transformer,
power pack, diodes, fuses, apron etc.
27
• The control box will feed the information’s about the electronic errors like
fuse burnt, loose connection, belt slip- off, power failure etc.
• By error codes like E1, E2, E3, E4 ……etc...
• These errors will be informed with beap sound.
• By using this control box, we can set up the machines as we require by
using parameter codes… like 001, 002,003,004… etc…by using these
codes, we can set up the parameters like needle soft stitching, needle
positioning, trimming, wiping, sound adjustment, speed adjustments etc…
in case of any confusion in setting the parameters press the reset buttons
to restore factory settings.
7. Explanation of the optional codes
001: - FOR ADJUSTING SOFT STITCHES (NEEDLE RUNNING SLOW

IN THE BEGINNING.
002: - FOR ADJUSTING THE MATERIAL EDGE SENSOR
009: - FOR ADJUSTING THE TRIMMING FUNCTION.
010: - FOR ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE UP AND DOWN POSITION.
011: - FOR ADJUSTING THE BLINKING SOUND.
095: - FOR CHECKING THE MACHINE LIST FOR WHICH THIS
CONTROL BOX CAN BE USED.
096: - FOR ADJUSTING THE SPEED SETTING.
101: - FOR ADJUSTING THE EPROM RESET.
8. EXPLANATION OF THE ERROR CODES
E1: - LOOSE CONNECTIONS AT THE SWITCH, AND PLUG
SOCKETS.
E2: - MOTOR CONNECTION PROBLEM.
E3: - V BELT SLIPPING OR SYNCHRONISER PROBLEM.
E6: - CONTROL PANNEL CONNECTION FAILURE.
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E8: - PEDAL SENSOR PROBLEM.
E11: - HIGH VOLTAGE PROBLEM.
E13: - LOW VOLLTAGE PROBLEM
3.4. Standard Adjustments of over lock machine
Table 3.4. Technical Specification of over lock sewing machine
Model Name MO-3600

Types of 5 Threads, 3 looper, 2 needle chain stitch, over
machine lock machine
Machine 5500 – 6000 SPM
speed
Motor used
1/3 HP, 400 Watts, single phase
Application of Overlocking of sides, sleeves etc.
Machine
Belt and 36’’ V-Belt 100mm Pulley
Pulley Size
Stitch Length 0.8 – 4 mm by push button system.
Presser Foot Up to 7mm
Lift
Types of stitch Chain stitch
Types of Differential feeding
feeding
Needle used DCx1 OR DCx27.
Needle gauge
2, 2.4, 3.2, 3.6, 4., 4.8 ETC….
Overedging
width 1.6, 3.2, 2, 4, 4.8, 6.4. ETC
Needle stroke
24.4 mm.
Differential For Gathering 1:2 and for stretching 1:0:8
feeding ratio
29
1. NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT
• Open the top cover of the machine and loosen the needle bar connecting
link and adjust the needle bar height to 10mm between over lock needle tip
and throat plate, when needle bar is on top.
 Move the needle bar in HBP
 Loose a little bit the screw for adjustment
 Put the needle at the recommended height (see instruction book) with
a metallic ruler or a gauge
 Tighten the screw for adjustmen
Fig 5 Needle bar height
2. LOWER LOOPER ADJUSTMENT
• Loosen the screw or nut of the lower looper and rotate machine pulley to
bring the needle bar down most position and keep 3.2 – 3.6 mm gap
between needle edge and tip of the lower looper and temporarily tighten the
looper nut.
• By rotating the pulley bring the looper tip to center of needle scarf and keep
0.05mm clearance.
Fig 6. lower looper adjustment
3. UPPER LOOPER TIMING
• Loosen the screw of the upper looper and when upper looper is crossing
with lower looper keep 0.05 – 0.1 mm gap between each other and confirm
when upper looper goes up there must be 0.2 mm gap between needle and
upper looper so that upper looper does not come in contact with overlock
needle.
• Also observe the overlock needle is entering thread. Then tighten the upper
looper screw.
Fig .7 upper looper timing
30
4. CHAIN LOOPER TIMING
• Bring needle bar down and loosen the screw or nut of the chain looper and
keep 1.8 to 2mm gap between chain looper and safety stitch needle and then
keep 0.05 mm clearance between chain looper tip and needle center.
• Then tighten the chain looper screw or nut.
5. NEEDLE GUARD ADJUSTMENTS
• Loosen the screws of the needle guards which are fixed to looper holder
and throat plate block.
• Keep 0.1 mm gap between front of the needle and needle guard and keep 0
to 0.05mm gap between back of needle and needle guard and tighten the
needle guard screws.
Fig. 8. Needle gauged adjustment
6. FEED DOG HEIGHT ADJUSTMENTS
• As this machine is equipped with differential feed system we use 3 different

feed dogs like main feed dog, auxiliary feed dog and differential feed dog.
• For main and differential feed dog the height should be 0.8 mm and for
auxiliary feed dog 0.5mm when feed dogs are at the top.
Fig. 10 feed dog height adjustment

31
7. LOWER AND UPPER KNIFE ADJUSTMENTS
• Loosen the screw of the lower knife and keep its height equal to throat plate
surface, then loosen the lower looper block screw and keep 1mm gap
between lower knife and throat plate surface.
• Then by losing the upper knife screw make its height so that when upper
knife is down, the upper knife is below the lower knife top surface and
ensure that both the upper and lower knife are touching each other.
8.STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT
• Remove the covering screw which is on the stitch length adjusting screw
and then press the push button and rotate the pulley until the pulley gets
locked.
• Further rotate the pulley to increase or decrease the stitch length as required
from 0.8 to 4mm.
09.DIFFERENTIAL FEED RATION
• Depending upon the fabric or as required we can adjust the differential ratio
on the left side of the machine.
• Loosen the screw of the differential adjusting lever and rotate the knob to
adjust it.
• For normal fabric the differential feed ratio should be kept at 0 so that ratio
between main feed dog and differential feed dog will be 1: 1.
• For gathering the ratio should be 1 :2 and for stretching the ratio should
be 1: 0.8.
10.TAKE UP CAM ADJUSTING METHOD
• Loosen the 2 screws of the take-up cam on the left side of the machine.
• When take-up cam starts to hold the thread, needle bar should be at the top.
• Then tighten the screws. Or when thread slips out of cam the needle tip
should be 2mm below the throat plate surface.
• Then tighten the screws.
32
3.5. In Apparel Manufacturing Processes, symptom root cause and
corrective action of maintenance
Table 3.5. Root cause symptom analysis

Symptom Root Cause Corrective Action
Sewing machine Sewing machine has been Turn power off and wait
suddenly stops during
run at a low speed for an about 20 minutes. Safety
sewing.
extended period of time. device will reset, and

Light is on, and hand
wheel can be turned easily To prevent overheating, motor machine will be ready to
by hand. power is automatically turned off.
operate.
Needle will not move. Upper thread has run out. Replace empty spool and
Presser foot is up. thread machine.
Bobbin winder shaft was Lower presser foot.
left in winding position. Move bobbin winder shaft
Buttonhole lever was not back fully to left.
lowered when machine Lower buttonhole lever.
was placed in buttonhole
mode.
33
Sewing machine will not Presser foot is not correct Replace presser foot with
run.
one, and needle hits presser foot. new one.
Needle has come out and Remove needle and insert
is in hook of machine. new one.

Upper thread breaks. Threading is not correct. Correctly thread machine.
Thread has a knot in it. Remove knot.
Thread tension is too tight. Correct thread tension.
Needle is bent or blunt or Replace needle.
has a sharp eye. Replace needle with
Needle is wrong size. correct size.
Needle has been inserted Properly insert needle.
wrong. Start machine at a medium
Needle and thread does speed.
not match. Use proper thread or
Starting to stitch too fast. needle.
Thread take-up lever has Check threading order.
not been threaded.

Bobbin thread Bobbin has not been fully Securely install bobbin
breaks. inserted in bobbin case. into bobbin case.
34
Bobbin has been Correctly thread bobbin
incorrectly threaded. case.
Bobbin does not turn Check to see that bobbin
smoothly in bobbin case. has been wound evenly.
Lint in bobbin case or Clean bobbin case and
shuttle. shuttle.
Skipped stitches. Thread tension is too Correct thread tension.
tight. Replace needle.
Needle is bent or blunt. Replace needle with
Needle is wrong size. correct size.
Needle and thread does Use proper thread or
not match. needle.
Thread take-up lever has Check threading order.
not been threaded. Increase pressure on
Light pressure on presser foot. presser foot.
Incorrect setting of Reset needle.
needle.
Stitches are not Thread has not been Fully pull thread into
formed properly. pulled into thread sensor thread sensor guide.
35
guide. Correct threading.
Threading is not correct. Correctly thread bobbin
Bobbin case has been case.
threaded wrong. Replace the cap with
Spool cap is wrong size correct size.
for thread spool.

Irregular stitches. Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle
Improper threading. for thread and fabric.
Loose upper thread Rethread machine.
tension. Tighten upper thread
Pulling fabric. tension.
Light pressure on presser Do not pull fabric; guide it
foot. gently.
Loose presser foot. Increase pressure on
Unevenly wound bobbin. presser foot.
Reset presser foot.
Rewind bobbin.
Fabric puckers. Stitch length is too long Decrease stitch length.
for material. Replace needle.
36
Needle point is blunt. Reset thread tension.
Incorrect thread tension. Increase pressure on
Light pressure on presser presser foot.
foot. Use underlay of tissue
Fabric is too sheer or soft. paper.
Using two different sizes Upper thread and bobbin
or kinds of thread. thread should be the same
size and kind.

Bunching of thread. Upper and lower threads Draw both threads back
not drawn back under under presser foot.
presser foot. Raise feed dog.
Feed dog down.

Needle breaks. A thin needle was used Use correct size needle.
for sewing a heavy weight Properly insert needle.
material. Securely tighten needle
Needle has not been fully clamp screw.
inserted into needle bar. Use correct presser foot.
Needle clamp screw is Reset presser foot.
loose. Do not pull fabric, guide it
37
Presser foot is not correct gently.
one.
Presser foot is loose.
Pulling on fabric as you
sew.
Loud noise is heard. Dust has accumulated in Clean machine.
feed dogs.
Knocking noise, machine Lint is in hook. Clean machine.

jammed.
Thread caught in shuttle. Disassemble machine and
clean shuttle.
The machine does not The stitch length has been Reselect the proper stitch
feed material.
set to zero. pattern and length.
The presser foot pressure Set presser foor pressure
is too low. adjustment lever to
Feed dogs are lowered. "normal".
Threads are knotted under Raise feed dogs.
fabric. Place both threads back
under presser foot before
beginning to stitch.
38
Threading cannot be The needle is not in Turn hand wheel until

done.
highest position. needle reaches its highest
position.
The needle threader will The needle threader is Properly insert needle.
not
designed not to turn to
turn.
protect it if the needle is
not up.
The threading hook will The needle has not been

not enter needle eye.
fully inserted into needle
bar.
Needle threader cannot Sewing machine was Slightly turn handle
be returned and the sewing
accidentally started while clockwise and remove
machine stops.
threading hook was still in threader.

The threading hook is
left in the needle eye. needle eye (during
threading).
39
Chapter 4
4. Summary
Planned preventive maintenance and good spare part management

practice is a back bone of efficient plant maintenance performance.
In today’s apparel manufacturing business buyers insist the delivery of

a range of product mixes within a shorter possible lead time. And to stay
competitive in such business environment it becomes inevitable of having
flexible and reliable manufacturing system.
The reliability of a system can be assured through a well-managed

planned preventive maintenance and good practice of spare part
management system. As good preventive maintenance assures the good
working condition of equipments and a well-managed spare part inventory
system alleviates excessive downtimes due to unavailability of spare parts.
Therefore, proper preventive maintenance and flawless spare part

management practices assures the maximum availability of equipments
thereby improving system reliability through gradual and continuous
process.
40
5.Reference
1. Juki Industrial Sewing Machines manual of iigm apparel maintenance.
2. Mishra, R.c., Pathak K. 2012. Maintenance Engineering and
Management. Second edition. India: PHI learning.
41
42
43
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Application of Maintenance in Apparel Industries 2018

1.Introduction and Objective

1.1. Company Profile

IIGM (India Industrial Garment Machines Pvt. Ltd.) pioneered to

IIGM is currently providing a wide range of services to various

IIGM is a leading distributor in EAE Electrical Products with 2000+

They believe in asset care with a strategy to provide international

Bring industry owner vision to life. Specialized in making companies

World class technology provided for all types of laundry applications

Consistent Quality is their commitment to industry owner. To provide

1.2. Management of Organization Stricture

Chart 1. Management team

The main objectives of the report are:

The report is delimited to describe the challenges and available sewing

In this intense apparel manufacturing business competition, one of

And the reliability of a system can be improved and enhanced through

2.2. History of the sewing machine

The democratization of fashion began with the invention of the sewing

In 1859, Isaac Singer, whose name has become a household word

(Electrically powered models were not available until1921). To save time

production, entrepreneurs brought workers and machinery together in

In 1849, when the Gold Rush attracted thousands of men in California

During the year 1900 with advanced technical improvement on the

2.2.1. Classification of sewing machine based on application level

A. Domestic Sewing machines

Domestic sewing machines, also called portable or home sewing

B. Industrial Sewing Machine

2.2.2. Classification of sewing based on stitch types

Based on the type of stitches they make, mechanical sewing machines

A. Lockstitch sewing machines

A lockstitch is the most common mechanical stitch made by a sewing

The lockstitch uses two threads, an upper and a lower. Lockstitch is so

Ideally, the lockstitch is formed in the center of the thickness of the

a. Lockstitch with rotary hook b. Lockstitch with boat shuttle c.

The geometry of the lockstitch is controlled by the presence or absence

2.3. Feeding mechanism

Material feed is the controlled movement of the material being sewn

B. Differential bottom feed

Differential bottom feed is a differential feed which utilizes two

Needle feeding system is particularly useful in bulky sewing situations

D.Variable top and bottom feed

2.4. Maintenance definition

A British standard (BS 3811-1984) has defined maintenance as follows:

The combination of all technical and associated administrative actions

Maintenance is the routine and recurring process of keeping a particular

2.5. Maintenance objectives

in achieving the ultimate goals of the organization. Another important

Elimination of future Prevent breakdown

Reduce down times

Chart 2. Objectives of maintenance

2.6. Types of maintenance systems

Basically, maintenance approaches can be divided in to two groups:

And planned maintenance can further be subdivided into the following

- Condition based monitoring

Planned Maintenance Unplanned Maintenance

Running Shutdown Breakdown

Scheduled Condition Reliability based Repair Replacement Overhauling

Chart 3. Maintenance system

The planned maintenance is an organized type or maintenance, which takee

Preventive maintenance, unlike corrective maintenance, is the practice of

Preventive maintenance (PM) is a schedule of planned maintenance actions

C. Value of Preventive Maintenance

There are multiple misconceptions about preventive maintenance. One such

Long-term benefits of preventive maintenance include: