Foundation Handout

1702705 1-2010
Outline
Foundation and
Foundation and Concealer
Concealer
• Foundation
• Concealer
• Make‐
Make‐up Base Foundation
• Equipment Requirements
q p q
Ampa Jimtaisong, PhD
School of Cosmetic Science
MAE FAH LUANG UNIVERSITY
1-2010 2
Introduction Foundation
• Face powder Functions:
• Face powder VS Powder foundation • Hide the skin flaws
• Even out various color tones
in the skin
• Act as a protectant from the
environment
• Make the skin surface appear
smoother
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Foundation Foundation
Other properties of ideal foundation
Ideal make‐up foundation’s application
• Water resistance
• Moderate fast drying to allow for an even • Shade consistency between the bottle
application and the skin tone
• Non‐settling, pour easily, be stable in storage • Product should be uniform
• Should not feel tacky, greasy, or too dry • Coverage will vary with skin types
• Proper play time
Proper ‘play time’ and slip
and slip
• Finish on the skin: matte, shiny, dewy
h h k h d
• Improve the appearance, not artificially
• Wear properties: not peel‐ff, not rub‐
off on clothes
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Foundation: Powder Compact Foundation
Types of foundations
• Powder foundation Easy to touch up the makeup when one is away from home
• Oil‐based (anhydrous) foundation
• Aqueous‐based foundation
• Emulsion foundation
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Powder Compact Foundation Powder Compact Foundation
Powder
• Talc 20.3
• Extender pigments: Talc, mica, sericite
pg , , • Mica 35.0
• Kaolin 35.0
• Whitening & coloring pigments: • TiO2 10.0
• TiO2 coated Mica 3.0
– TiO2, ZnO, iron oxides • Zinc stearate 1.0
• Iron oxides 4‐5%
• Binding agents • Nylon powder 10.0
Bi di
Binding agentst
• Perfumes • Squalane 6.0
• Lanolin acetate 1.0
• Actives • Octyldodecyl myristate4.0
• Sorbitol monooleate0.5
9 Perfumes, actives 10
Two‐way powder Foundation Two‐way powder Foundation
Powder
• Used on dry or wet sponge • Silicone‐treated talc 19.2
• Silicone‐treated mica
l d 40.0
• Main type of summer foundation • Silicone‐treated TiO2 15.0
• Silicone‐treated ultrafineTiO2 5.0
• Silicone‐treated Iron oxides 4‐5%
• Convenience, cool, refreshing feeling • Zinc stearate 0.1
• Nylon powder 2.0
Binding agents
• Squalane 4.0
• Solid paraffin 0.5
• Dimethyl polysiloxane 4.0
• Glyceryl triisooctanoate 5.0
Perfumes, actives
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Two‐
Two‐Way Foundation Make
Way Foundation Make‐‐Up Anhydrous Foundation
• Ingredients % w/w
• Powdery, not fluid
• Dimethicone Treated Sericite
Treated Sericite 44 3
44.3
• Dimethicone Treated Talc 37.2 • Easy to travel with
• Dimethicone Treated Titanium Dioxide, Alumina 3.5
• Dimethicone Treated Yellow Iron Oxide 2.4
• Autumn and winter
• Dimethicone Treated Red Iron Oxide 0.9
• Dimethicone Treated Black Iron Oxide 0.3
Binder
• Dimethicone 4.4
• Octyldodecyl Oleate 3.5
• Squalane 3.5
• Preservative q.s.
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Anhydrous Foundation Anhydrous Foundation
• Ingredients
• Ingredients
• Waxes
– Beeswax, jojoba, carnauba, candelilla • Pigments (often surface treated)
– Paraffin, polyethylene, – TiO2
– Dimethicone copolyol, beeswax, polyglyceryl‐3 – ZnO
beeswax (nice texture, compatibility with
beeswax (nice texture, compatibility with – Iron oxides
silicones)
– Fatty alcohols
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Anhydrous Foundation Anhydrous Foundation
• Ingredients
• Ingredients
• Bioactives
• Wetting agents
– Anti‐inflammatory
– Low HLB emulsifiers
– Moisturizer and skin protectant
– Polyglyceryl esters (polyglyceryl‐3 diisostearate)
– Antioxidant
– Lanolin alcohols
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Anhydrous Foundation‐‐ Liquid type
Anhydrous Foundation
• Basic formulation
• Anhydrous liquid translucent foundation
E lli t
Emollients 30 60%
30‐60%
Powder
Waxes 5‐10%
z Mica 20-25 %
Wetting agents 0.5‐1.0%
z Iron oxides q.s.
Texturing agents 30‐60% Oil phase
• Manufacturing procedure z Carnauba wax 5.0
z Beeswax 1.0
1.Emollients,Waxes,Wetting agents‐heated
z Isopropyl myristate75.0
2.Pigment,Texturing agents‐added Perfumes, actives
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Anhydrous Foundation‐‐
Anhydrous Foundation‐‐ Cream type
Compact type Cake foundation
Compact type Cake foundation
Powder
• Anhydrous cream foundation • Talc 17.8

• Kaolin 15.0
Powder
• TiO2 15.0
z Talc to 100
z Mica 3.0
Oil phase
z TiO2 20.0
z Iron oxides 4-5
• Microcrystalline wax6.0
Oil phase
• Beeswax 20
2.0
z Carnauba wax 10.0
• Petrolatum 12.0
z Mineral oil 30.0
• Lanolin acetate 1.0
z Isopropyl myristate10.0
• Squalane 6.0
z Lanolin 5.0
• Isopropyl palmitate 18.0
Perfumes, actives
21 Perfumes, actives 22
Anhydrous Foundation ‐‐ Stick type Emulsion Foundation
Powder
• Talc 2.8
• Kaolin 20.0 • Compositions are vary widely depending on degree of
• Mica 3.0 coverage and emollient desired.
• TiO2 20.0
• Stability
Oil phase • Pigment wetting and dispersion
• Microcrystalline wax7 0
Microcrystalline wax7.0 • Easy spreading and blending
• Petrolatum 15.0 • Good skin feel
• Dimethyl polysiloxane3.0
• Squalane 5.0 • Slippery feeling
• Isopropyl palmitate 17.0
Perfumes, actives 23 24
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Emulsion Foundation Emulsion Foundation
• Oil‐in‐Water (O/W) Emulsion Foundations
• Formulation considerations
Formulation considerations – Oils and powder are dispersed through the water phase to
– Prolonged skin contact, minimize emulsifier levels form an emulsion
to avoid irritant – Cream and liquid type
– Choose the oils based on low comedogenicity – Shorter playtime than that of W/O emulsion
– Stability
Stability
– Preservation‐difficult to preserve (gum+water)
P i diffi l ( )
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• Oil‐in‐Water (O/W) Emulsion Foundation
– Powder • Water‐in Oil (W/O) Emulsion Foundations
( / )
• Talc 3.0 1. Disperse bentonite in propylene
• TiO2 5.0
• Iron oxides ~ 2.0‐3.0 glycol, add water, mix well with – This type has been used for long ago
– Oil others in water phase at 70 °C
• Stearic acid 2.2
– Easy to apply, long playtime, oily feel on use
• Liquid paraffin 8.0 2. Grind the powder ad add to
• Liquid lanolin 2.0 – Silicone oils—light feel, long wear, water‐resistant
water phase
• Glyceryl monostearate 2.0
• Isohexadecyl alcohol 70
7.0 3 The oil phase is heated to 70 °C
3.The C –2
2‐layer
layer dispersed foundation (shake well
dispersed foundation (shake well‐type)
type)
– Water
4. Add oil phase into water phase
• Bentonite 0.5 – Cream type‐very popular
• Deionized water to 100 and process in a homomixer
• POE sorbitan monostearate 0.9
5. While stirring, cool to 45 °C ,
– Undergo no change in color with wearing
• Triethanolamine 1.0
• Propylene glcol 10.0 and add other materials
– Other materials 27 28
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• W/O Foundation Cream • W/O liquid Foundation (2‐layer)
– Powder – Powder
1 Mix water phase well at 70 °C
1. C
• Sericite 5.36 • Talc 7.0
• Kaolin 4.0 2. Grind the powder ad add to water • Silicic acid anhydride 2.0
• TiO2 9.32 • TiO2 12.0 1. Mix water phase well
phase
• Iron oxides ~ 2.0‐3.0 • Nylon powder 4.0
2. Grind the powder ad add to
3.The oil phase is heated to 70 °C • Iron oxides ~ 2.0‐3.0
– Oil
• Liquid paraffin 5.0 4. Add oil phase into water phase and – Oil water phase
• Octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane 10.0
• Decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane 12.0 process in a homomixer 3.The oil phase is mixed and add
• Pentaerythritol rosinate 1.5
• Polyethylene denatutured
Polyethylene denatutured dimethylsiloxane 40
4.0
5. While stirring, cool to 45 °C , and • Neopentyl glycol diisooctanoate 2.0 oil phase into water phase, process
– Water • Polyethylene denatutured dimethylsiloxane1.5
• Deionized water to 100 add other materials – Water in a homomixer
• Dispersing agent 0.1 • Deionized water to 100
• Propylene glcol 5.0 • Ethanol 7.0
– Other materials • Propylene glycol 5.0
– Other materials
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Emulsions 1. Direct pigment
¾ Coloration of the emulsion base may be handled in ¾ The pigments are weighted directly into the aqueous
different ways: phase and dispersed or colloid milled
1. Direct pigment ¾ Then, the emulsion is formed
2. Pigment dispersions ¾ Problems:
3. Mixed pigment blender ¾ too many color adjustments needed
¾ Accurate color matching is difficult
4. Monochromatic color
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2. Pigment dispersions 3. Mixed pigment blender
¾ The pigment is mixed with talc in 50:50 dispersion ¾ The pigments and the extenders are premixed,
ratio pulverized, and matched to a standard
¾ Then, dispersed in the aqueous phase of the
¾ Then, pulverized to match a standard
emulsion and the emulsion is formed
¾ Reduce number of color corrections needed, but
d b f l d d b
¾ The finished shade is color matched at the powder
storage may be a problem blender stage
¾ Taking time to make the dispersion ¾ Changes of error are reduced
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Aqueous‐
Aqueous‐based or Suspension Foundation
Emulsion Foundation
4. Monochromatic color solutions } Water‐based foundation
¾ Make color concentrates of each pigment in a } Water
finished formula } Suspending agent
¾ Easy to color match by blending finished base but } Pigment
much storage space is needed
} Preservative
¾ Possibility of contamination is increased
} Additives
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Concealer Product
Cover facial blemishes: birthmarks,
Concealer Product chloasma, lack of pigmentation
Stick or cream form
Stick or cream form
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CONCEALER COMES IN DIFFERENT FORMS
Concealer
¾Solid cream stick
Formulation‐stick form
¾Pot Caster oil 29.4
Butyl stearate 14.0
¾Tube Petrolatum 5.6
Beeswax 10.5
¾Wand
Ozokerite wax 7.0
Procedure
¾Pencil Paraffin wax 3.5
Heat the oils, waxes,
TiO2 25.0 add the grind powders
¾Oil‐free compact Iron oxides 5.0 Pour into mold
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Make‐‐up Base Foundation
Make
Make‐‐up Base Foundation
Make
Correct your skin tone, to
achieving flawless and long
lasting complexion.
Yellow, green, violet, white
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Make‐
Make‐up Base Foundation Complexion: Make‐‐up Base Foundation
Make
Three basic color categories
Yellow = suitable for Dark and Uneven Skin Tone,
Sallow: yellow helps to lighten dark complexion and unified
ªYellowish, brownish
Yellowish, brownish‐‐yellow or green color uneven skin tone
ki
Pink = suitable for Dull Skin Tone, pink can lighten
Florid: and illuminates dull skin tone
ªHighly colored, ruddy Use Lilac to calm yellow, sallow skin
Green = suitable for redness skin tone,
= suitable for redness skin tone green is very
green is very
Neutral: good to tone down the redness
ª Little or no color Blue = suitable for slight redness Skin Tone, Very Fair
Skin Tone, blue helps to illuminates fair skin tone and
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tone down slightly redness 44
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Equipment Requirements:
Equipment Requirements Grinding or Dispersing
a Grinding of pigments a Grinding of the pigment phase into the
Grinding of the pigment phase into the
a Mixing and blending of the liquid and the smallest possible particle size.
powder phases aColloid mill
aRoller mill
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Equipment Requirements: Choosing the right foundation
Mixing
a A steam jacketed tank equipped with some
A steam jacketed tank equipped with some
type of agitator (for oil phase) and a steam
jacketed tank for water phase
a Homomixer
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Choosing the right foundation Choosing the right foundation
Product forms: Coverage
Normal Skin Facial Foundations
N l Ski F i l F d i Liquid
Very sheer
Dry Skin Facial Foundations Cream
Sheer
Product finishes: Moderate
Acne/Oily Skin Facial Foundations Matte Heavy
Combination Skin Facial Foundations Semimatte Full
Moist
Moist semimatte
semimatte
shiny
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Facial Foundation Finishes Normal Skin Facial Foundations
Finish Appearance Formulation Skin type Moisturizing

ability Numerous facial foundations of choice
Numerous facial foundations of choice
zMatte Flat, no shine Oil-free Oily Least
Semimatte to moist semimatte
to moist semimatte finish
zSemimatte Min. shine Oil-free or Oily to Feature:
O/W-based Normal
zMoist-
Moist- Moisturizing foundation: additives
semimatte Dewy shine O/W-based
O/W based Normal to Sun Protection (SPF)
Sun Protection (SPF)
dry
zShiny Obvious shine W/O-based Dry Most Long‐lasting
Natural‐look foundation
Liquid or Cream form
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Dry Skin Facial Foundations Acne/Oily Skin Facial Foundations
All day moisturizing foundations Matte or
Matte or semimatte
semimatte finish
Easy to apply, long playtime, moist feeling Oil
Oil‐‐free or low oil content
Less coverage
Semimatte or shiny finish
More prone to cake
Feature:
Short playtime, difficult to apply
Oil‐based (anhydrous) foundations W/S emulsions
W/O emulsions Liquid form
Cream form Oil selection:
Oil selection: comedogenic
comedogenic potential
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Choosing the right foundation
Combination Skin Facial Foundations
References
The most common skin type
yp 1. J.
J. B. Wilkinson, R. J. Moore, Harry
B. Wilkinson, R. J. Moore, Harry’ss Cosmeticology, 7th ed. Chemical
Cosmeticology, 7th ed. Chemical
publishing, New York, USA, 1982.
T‐zone : oily central forehead, nose, cheeks
2. T. Mitsui, New Cosmetic Science, Elsevier Science B.V, Amsterdam, The
No best foundation developed to date Netherlands, 1997.
3. M.S. Balsam, E. Sagarin. Cosmetics : Science and Technology. Volume I, II
Oil‐
Oil‐control foundation (higher Talc, kaolin)
and III, 2nd ed., Wiley‐Interscience, New York, 1972, 1974.
Feature: 4 M
4. M. Paye, A.O. Barel, H.I. Maibach. Handbook of Cosmetic Science
Paye A O Barel H I Maibach Handbook of Cosmetic Science
Technology. Taylor & Francis, New York, USA, 2006.
O/W liquid emulsions
5. M. G. deNavarre, J.H. Merritt, The Chemistry and Manufacture of
W/S liquid emulsions
Cosmetics, 2nd ed.,Continetal Press, Orlando, FL,USA.,1974.
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• Anhydrous cream foundation • Talc 17.8

Finish Appearance Formulation Skin type Moisturizing

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