Food and Travel Arabia January 2018

La Vinoteca Game on:
Barcelona Zambia
Iberian style A luxury safari
Sergio
Herman Turks &
A Dutch Master Caicos
Island Festival
Nomad
Urban Eatery Tom Aikens
The Big Breakfast The interview
VOL 5 ISS 1
FINE FOOD FROM THE KITCHEN’S AT FOLLY BY NICK & SCOTT
SIMPLY THE BEST

Seychelles Romain van Durmen Gibraltar Lima Dubai Richard Raab
Editor Charlie Thompson
Associate Editor Ali Ahmed
Art Director Rebecca Teece Paye
Art Editor Maggie Bonner
Review Editor Mona Mohammed
Online Editor Husain Khaled
Social Media Editor Darcey Gibbs
Features Editor Nick Baines
Consulting Editor Sarah Price
Contributing Editor Adrian Back
Contributing Editor Anthea Rowan
Editor-at-Large Marie Barbieri
Editor-at-Large Kevin Pilley
Feature Correspondent Sophie Ibbotson
Feature Correspondent Joe Worthington
Director of Publishing Francesca Jackson
Executive Director Salah Alhaiki
Account Director Oliver Davies
Editorial Enquiries
editor@foodandtravelarabia.com
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Food and Travel, UK

Mark Sansom, editor
mark.sansom@foodandtravel.com
Food and Travel, Germany
I
Stefanie Will, editor n the Middle East, we are now amongst the world’s most adventurous
stefanie.will@foodandtravel.com travellers and gastronomers. Horizons are broad, tastes eclectic.
Food and Travel, Mexico Every month, Food and Travel Arabia brings these two naturally
Cecilia Núñez, editor complementary interests together in a single magazine. Food and
cecilia.nunez@lyrsa.com.mx
Food and Travel, Turkey
Travel Arabia is about adventure, the quest for new foods and new
Mehmet Tel, editor flavours, and the discovery of new places and new friends.
mehmet.tel@foodandtravel.com.tr Our best travel and food writers have been briefed to search the world for
Food and Travel, Italy exciting destinations, the latest restaurants and the finest cooking. The
Marco Sutter, publisher result is award winning editorial covering the world’s favourite pastimes -
publisher@foodandtravelitalia.com
Food and Travel, Portugal
food, drink and travel. Every month we get up close and personal with some
Jose Fragoso, publisher of the region’s kitchen favourites to talk seasonal produce and personal
jose.fragoso@foodandtravel.com.pt culinary development, inspiration and of course key interviews. Our expert
team seeks out gastronomic gems in some of the world’s most exciting
destinations marrying food and travel in beautifully photographed features
to whet your appetite. Get the low down on the latest in haute cuisine with
WINNER expert opinion and insights from some of the world’s most talented award
PPA Independent Publishing Company of the Year winning and Michelin Starred chefs. Read honest and independent hotel and
WINNER restaurant reviews from around the region and around the world; Recreate
PPA Publisher of the Year the chefs’ favourite dishes at home from our detailed recipe section and
Food and Travel Magazine is published by Green Pea follow the progress of your favourite restaurant, hotel or destination
Publishing Ltd, Ingate Place, London, UK. Food and Travel
& Food and Travel Arabia are published under license from
throughout the year in the Food and Travel GCC Awards.
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accepted and will not be returned
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 3

98 76
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40 82
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4 FOOD & TRAVEL
42
January 2018
ARRIVALS 70 Seven seas of wry Food and 56 Sky-high dining At.mosphere
7 News This month we visit the Travel columnist Kevin Pilley | is located on 122nd floor of the
region’s latest places to stay visits the Turks & Caicos Burj Khalifa guaranteeing breath-
and eat Conch Festival taking views
18 The Food and Travel Awards 76 Going underground A tour of 60 La Vinoteca Barcelona
It’s that time – discover who has Turkey’s underground cities of Inspiring cuisine, chic
made the final expert judging Cappadocia Mediterranean style and an
round of the 2018 Awards 82 The Rock Gibraltar has seen authentic Spanish dining
civilisations come and go leaving experience
TALK behind unique architecture, 66 Peruvian chic Lima Dubai
12 The interview Two Michelin- attractions, and myths offers modern Peruvian cuisine
starred Tom Aikens, the from award-winning chef Virgilio
youngest British chef to earn two FOOD Martinez
Michelin stars 20 The pantry We discover tasty
40 Richard Raab The driving festive recipes for Napa cabbage TRIED & TASTED
force behind Four Seasons and healthy oats 87 Chef’s Palette Channel your
Bahrain Bay 32 Simply the best The latest inner-Heston at Fairmont the
Palm’s cookery studio
52 Sergio Herman We catch recipes from the kitchens of folly
up with the three Michelin-starred by Nick & Scott 88 Places to eat Michelin plates
Dutch Master in Dubai 72 A little of what you fancy We on high in Berlin, theatrical
American in London’s West End,
64 Management by Design find out why just a little of what
you fancy, really can do a bunch of brunches and some
Meet Sandra Tikal GM of Dubai’s
you good Italian cheer
iconic Palazzo Versace
92 90 Places to stay A brutal
80 Hotel talk Anne-Marie Dowling Recipes This month’s collection
of mouth-watering recipes for redesign in Phuket, colonial
talks about hospitality and the
you to try at home luxe in New Delhi, time to get
Middle East
cosy in the Cotswolds, and dine
98 The last word Romain van in the ultimate gourmet escape
Durmen, Chef de Cuisine for The DESTINATIONS
Chefs Palette, Cooking Studio 42 Simply Seychelles Palm-
fringed white beaches, balmy
waters & lush green islands
TRAVEL
49 The big breakfast Nomad
44 Game on Discover an exclusive
Urban Eatery delivers exceptional
safari lodge, in Zambia’s remote
food and a chic dining
Liuwa Plains National Park
experience
awaits the healthy lifestyle-lover.

When the festive energy of Spain meets the warm spirit of
Bahrain, something incredible happens.
Welcome to the new La Vinoteca Barcelona, the home of

authentic Spanish food & culture in Bahrain. Enjoy our
little piece of ‘España’ right in the heart of Adliya.
19 Yousif Ahmed Al-Shirawi Avenue, Block 338, Adliya, Bahrain

+973 1700 7808 | hola@vinotecabcn.com | www.vinotecabcn.com
lavinotecabarcelona vinotecabh
The Anandi
Hotel & Spa
Shanghai
he latest edition to the Leading Hotels of the World
T collection opens in February 2018. This stylish

contemporary hotel has been designed to be
the ultimate sanctuary in Shanghai. At the core of
its offerings is the principle of balancing physical,
emotional and spiritual well-being. Centrally situated
in the Hong Qiao hub, adjoining the Su Zhou River,
it is ideally located for the city’s main commercial
districts. 277 guest rooms, 48 suites and 8 villas
all feature the latest in green technology and
enjoy exclusive butler service. The innovative
wellness centre provides a new concept of
integrated healing, delivering a collection of
health and well-being solutions for overall
body rejuvenation, mindfulness, and
energy balance therapies.
www.theanandi.com
New
www.lhw.com
s an
d vi
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from
the
wor
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fooof
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7 FOOD & TRAVEL

Arrivals
NEWS
THE GREAT OUTDOORS UAE
The ‘salt of life’ is everywhere when you take a moment to look, celebrating the
SALT of life through art, entertainment, and an active lifestyle. SALT sprouted
from an airstream trailer at Dubai Kite Beach with the idea that real ingredients
taste better. It is more than just a burger place where you eat quickly and go.
Salt takes pride in creating its own lifestyle where you are welcomed as part of
the Salt family, calling everyone ‘Salters’ and going the extra mile to make sure
everyone enjoys the experience. It is meant to be a destination that makes
residents feel like tourists and tourists feel like residents. Just like the ingredient
that enriches the flavour of a meal, SALT adds life to underserved locations, BAY BRUNCH BAHRAIN
creating an environment like no other. #FindSALT in Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay towers on the
and Al Ain, doing random pop-ups across other places in the UAE, and now in north-eastern waterfront of Manama, capital city
Khobar, Saudi Arabia, with events such as the Gravity DXB crew who of Bahrain. Located in the Lower Lobby of the
showcased their athletic abilities, while budding artists joined calligrapher and 68-storey tower this lively indoor-outdoor
artist Rafa Ayn at SALT Kite Beach. www.find-salt.com restaurant has something to suit every taste and
features an incredible Friday Winter Brunch; a
special dining experience for the whole family.
The lavish culinary offerings, including five unique
food stations serving Arabic, Western, Indian,
Japanese and Chinese delicacies and winter
inspired dishes using seasonal ingredients to live
the season spirit including stews, BBQ, roasted
chestnuts, fondue, Raclette and more. Enjoy
special chestnut giveaway after your meal. Shisha
is also available on the restaurant terrace during
brunch hours. Friday Winter Brunch is served
between 12:30pm – 3:30pm every Friday until
February 9. Prices start at $80pp incl. soft drinks.
For more information call +973 1711 5500 or visit
www.fourseasons.com/bahrain
RAVIOLI & CO DUBAI

Dubai’s new pasta hotspot, Ravioli & Co., is now open in Burj Daman, DIFC. This
new home-grown interpretation of classic Italian cuisine set in an authentic trattoria.
With rustic décor, old flooring, aged wooden tables, exposed ceiling, wire lights,
antique accessories and an open kitchen, Whether you dine inside or on the
terrace, the restaurant emanates a quaint charm. From Italian breads such as
focaccia and grissini baked in-house to fresh handmade pasta, Ravioli and Co.
delivers an unpretentious Italian experience; delivering the essence of home-style
cuisine for which Italy is known and loved. Head Chef Eros Brambilla, has created a
menu that includes freshly made pasta dishes, prepared daily by an in-house
sfoglina (pasta lady) such as: Ravioli Al Nero Di Seppia; black ravioli stuffed with cod
fish, potato, and lemon zest, Tagliatelle Al Ragu’Di Fassona; tagliatelle with fassona
beef ragout, Gnocchi Alle Melanzane; eggplant gnocchi, asiago cheese, cherry
tomato sauce, and Filetto Con Porcini; beef fillet with porcini sauce. Seal your meal
with a classic Italian dessert, including Tiramisu Con Nutella; a traditional tiramisu ANGSANA ZHUHAI CHINA
with a twist, Torta Paesana; traditional grandma cake with chocolate, raisins and Opening this month Angsana Zhuhai Phoenix Bay
pine nuts, or Bonnet; chocolate cake with amaretto biscuits. Ravioli & Co. is open with 202 rooms, suites and lofts is located on one
daily from noon to midnight. For more information call +971 4 2411616 or visit of the most beautiful spots in Phoenix Bay,
ravioliandco.ae surrounded by mountains and beaches. Explore
the beautiful seaside city or take a stroll along the
tranquil Lovers’ Road, meandering between green
rolling mountains and the sparkling sea. It is the
perfect getaway. Located on the coast, this
perfect location enjoys easy access to the city
centre or the Macau border, a mere 20-minute
drive and only an hour away from Zhuhai Jinwan
Airport. It is a great getaway destination www.
angsana.com/en/china/zhuha
8 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

SOUTH AMERICAN CHIC Colombia
Conrad has opened its first hotel in Colombia. The oceanfront
oasis on the north side of the iconic Walled City welcomes you FOOD FESTIVAL DUBAI
to the shores of the Caribbean Sea. Conrad Cartagena has 109 A date for your culinary diary: Dubai’s annual citywide culinary
uniquely designed guestrooms and suites, featuring neutral celebration, returns on 22 February – 10 March 2018,
tones, contemporary wood furniture, marble décor, and artwork offering the foodie in all of us a program of events, activities
from Colombian artists, Pedro Ruiz and Kiko Kairuz. Large and promotions. The 5th edition of the Dubai Food Festival
windows and high ceilings provide natural light and views of the brings together the best of Dubai gastronomy, and shines a
Caribbean Sea or the expertly designed, Jack Nicklaus golf spotlight on wide range of cuisines available throughout the
course. Conrad Cartagena’s vibrant dining scene features city, from the fine dining to hidden eateries off the beaten
cuisine from land and sea, alongside craft cocktails; restaurants track. Presenting the latest food trends and concepts, where
include Biblioteka – a signature restaurant inspired by Chef award winning gourmet dining can be enjoyed for an
Gabriela Gómez’s culinary experiences in Asia, Europe and Latin exceptional price, Dubai Food Festival offers a feast of food
America, Adesso Tu – changing from day to night, has an related events that is sure to whet the appetite of foodies
expansive kitchen that offers a daily breakfast buffet, becoming from across the globe. Highlights of the 2018 edition include
a cosy pizzeria for lunch and dinner, Market Café – a Colombian Dubai Restaurant Week, Beach Canteen, Hidden Gems,
coffee house, and Son y Ron – the beautiful lobby bar which is and Taste of Dubai and more. Residents and visitors alike will
the architectural anchor of the hotel welcoming you with a rum- be able to take advantage of exclusive offers by purchasing
centric menu and live music. Other amenities include five the DFF Pass on sale in early 2018 offering citywide deals
swimming pools; an 18-hole Golf Course designed by Jack and promotions throughout the DFF period. For more
Nicklaus; and signature Conrad itineraries, which let you information visit www.dubaifoodfestival.com
immerse yourself into the local culture. Conrad Cartagena is
offering special opening rates starting at US$189 per night.
For more information visit www.cartagena.conradhotels.com
A TASTE OF INDIA DUBAI

Masti is an Indian inspired, passionately different and deliciously new
dining destination located on the shores of one of Dubai’s most
prestigious new developments, La Mer. Masti infuses modern with BAHARAT Bahrain
tradition, colour with flavour, creating an expression of ‘New India’. If you are looking for a great value business lunch at
Dynamic and daring the restaurant offers a stunning array of inspired Baharat located in Le Meridien Bahrain City Centre. Enjoy
plates, that take cues and influence from a variety of global flavours. a section of Middle Eastern and Indian fusion cuisine
From the mind of legendary and award-winning chef Hari Nayak, the inspired by the restaurant name Baharat (Spices), the
menu offers a reinterpretation of Indian cuisine, designed to share. From food is prepared in open kitchen, and features a tandoor
small to large plates, to culinary journeys for two and irresistible side oven & indoor grill. The Business Lunch buffet is priced at
dishes, you will be spoilt for choice. Highlights include, Black Bass $39, The Soup & Salad buffet is $18, and served from
Ceviche, a Masti take on a Peruvian classic with lime, jalapeno and 12:30pm – 4pm daily. Try BBQ night; a stylish yet rustic
crispy Plantain, offering a mouth-watering combination; Bhatti Merguez BBQ experience on the Baharat terrace and savour the
delivers a heady mix of African and Indian flavours with succulent lamb, juicy BBQ ribs and tenderloin steak as you enjoy live
caramelized onion and a chili garlic masala; and even the fries offer a music from The Deux Song. The BBQ Buffet is served
flavour surprise, prepared with Togarashi spice and finished with a truffle from 1pm – 11pm every Wednesday evening. Prices start
cream melt. The plush interior is rich with texture and bold colours. The at $65 incl. soft drinks. Or enjoy the delights of Seafood
beachfront terrace and lounge is open from day to night offering an idyllic Night, where you can indulge in a wide selection of fresh
dining location providing an enjoyable laidback experience. The upstairs oysters, prawns, lobster, sushi, clams, fresh fish filleted &
bar affords panoramic views of the Arabian Gulf; savour tempting bar Mussels cooked to your taste. The Seafood Buffet is
bites or share a selection of Masti’s exquisite treats, as the resident DJ served from 7pm – 11-m every Thursday. Prices start at
sets the mood. www.mastidubai.com $65 incl. soft drinks. For more information call +973 17
171 1441 or visit www.lemeridienbahraincitycentre.com
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA W 9

Arrivals
NEWS
BROWN’S HOTEL LONDON

The Rocco Forte Brown’s Hotel located in the heart of Mayfair,
opened its doors in 1837 as the first hotel in London, the same
year Queen Victoria ascended to the throne. In the 180 years
since it has become regular home to royalty and writers, from
Pulitzer Prize and Oscar winners to musicians and scientists,
explorers and politicians alike. In celebration of 180 years of
Brown’s Hotel, the hotel is offering an unparalleled opportunity to
The Arabian Jewel Fujairah visit the property and bask in the intimate historical setting. Enjoy
Often referred to as the ‘Arabian Jewel’, beguiling Dibba, Fujairah is two nights stay or more, with 20% off the room rate, breakfast
now home to the InterContinental Fujairah Resort, an exceptional every day, a guaranteed upgrade and a complimentary Afternoon
destination where Arabian hospitality meets luxury. The resort is a Tea for Two in the English Tea Room. Savour a glass of
beachfront property situated on the shoreline of the exquisite Al Aqah champagne, a cup of English tea, delicious sandwiches and
Beach, set against the spectacular backdrop of the Hajar Mountains. scones by some of the most experienced chefs, as you relax in
The luxury resort consists of a series of low-rise Arabesque village- the warming atmosphere during your delicious afternoon tea. The
style buildings and combines contemporary design elements with 180th Anniversary package includes: two-night stay in a Deluxe
strong Arab influences that reflect the local heritage and culture. Room or above, guaranteed upgrade to the next available room
Resort amenities include, a gymnasium, O Spa by L’Occitane, type, complimentary Afternoon Tea for two, daily Breakfast,
offering an extensive menu of signature therapies, as well as four chauffeured Bentley Mulsanne (subject to availability and within
meeting rooms, a boardroom and a ballroom. The hotel boasts two 3-mile radius) and use of the hotel spa facilities (excluding
gourmet dining options including Nama, a truly indulgent dining treatments). For more information call +44 20 7493 6020 or visit
experience with an elaborate selection of international dishes and www.roccofortehotels.com
Drift, a casual style beach bar and grill. Kids of all ages can enjoy a
family pool, Kids’ Club and a Teen’s Club designed to entertain the
two age groups. A babysitting service ensures that parents are able
to relax and unwind while their young ones are being looked after and
delighted by the experienced hotel staff. www.ihg.com
THE OCEAN CLUB Bahamas

Originally opened in 1962, The Ocean Club has long been a
favourite hideaway for luxury travellers, with its picture-perfect
oceanfront setting, immaculate grounds and stellar service. Over
ARMANI Dubai the years and through several evolutions, as it earned numerous
Learn a new skill or sharpen your existing culinary knowledge with international awards and accolades. In recent years, The Ocean
a new season of weekend master classes at Armani/Ristorante led Club received global attention as the setting for key scenes in the
by gourmet guru, Chef Alessandro Salvatico. This January is all 2006 remake of the James Bond classic Casino Royale. Now
about what lies beneath with a seafood inspired oyster, clam and managed by Four Seasons, The Ocean Club begins the next
salmon trio of dinner party worthy dishes. Priced at $165pp or chapter in its storied history. The resort offers timeless elegance,
$275 per couple, and includes a three-course lunch with beverage luxurious accommodations in several low-rise buildings with sea
pairings, at Armani/Ristorante, Lobby Level, Burj Khalifa. The end and garden views. The traditional island-style rooms and suites
of the month sees the arrival of the venetian culinary carnival at open to ever-present sea breezes among the palm trees and
Armani/ Ristorante & Armani/Deli; a fixture of Venice’s annual gentle sounds of ocean waves, while the three villas are each
entertainment calendar since the 12th century. Enjoy the flavours of serviced by a personal butler during your stay. Dining is highlighted
Italy in the heart of Downtown Dubai this January & February with a by Michelin-starred Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s DUNE and
gastronomic festival that celebrates the region’s classic flavours. the adjacent DUNE Bar, serving French-Asian cuisine with a touch
Choose from a fourcourse menu at Armani/Ristorante featuring of Caribbean spice, as well as OCEAN for freshly grilled island fare
stuffed squid served in a herby bisque and guinea fowl roulade and poolside Versailles Terrace. Although located in its own quiet
with chicken mousse and goose speck or head to the enclave, The Ocean Club is also just minutes from the dining,
monochrome chic setting of Armani/Deli for cod carpaccio, risotto, shopping and other entertainments offered at Atlantis. You can
Venetian style veal liver and the hotel’s signature sfera dessert. The enjoy tennis and access to the Tom Weiskopf-designed Ocean
Venetian Carnival runs from January 27 to February 13 and is Club golf course. For younger guests, Kids for All Seasons offers
available between 7pm – 11pm. Armani/Ristorante priced at a fully supervised program of creative activities, and babysitting
$125pp & Armani/Deli $95pp. For more information call +971 4 can also be arranged if you want a quiet dinner or a few hours on
888 3666 or visit www.armanihoteldubai.com the golf course or in the Spa. www.fourseasons.com

TOM
AIKENS
It’s been two decades since Tom Aikens shot to fame as the
youngest British chef to earn two Michelin stars

THE INTERVIEW
om Aikens begins our conversation at Pots Pans & Boards,
T his relaxed, family-friendly restaurant at the top end of The

Beach on Dubai’s JBR, with a rather startling statement. “If I
had my time again, I’d carry on travelling and training until I was into
my early thirties, rather than becoming a head chef.”
Fair enough you might think, until you consider who is talking
here. Aikens is famed for being the youngest ever British chef to
be awarded two Michelin stars; he was just 26 and head chef at
London’s Pied à Terre restaurant when in 1996 the accolade was
bestowed upon him. Does that mean he’d be prepared to give
that experience up, I wonder – and the answer in short, is yes. “It
doesn’t mean I’m not incredibly proud of what we achieved, there’s
just so much to learn, to see and to eat; I wouldn’t want to miss out.
When I was a young chef France was the only country you really
travelled to in order to continue learning, but now there’s so much
opportunity.”
“Aikens admits that he was consumed

by the pursuit of both Michelin stars
and perfection”
Back in those days Aikens had a reputation for being extremely
focused and intensely driven but also rather hot-headed and prone
to the occasional outburst too. He admits that he was consumed
by the pursuit of both Michelin stars and perfection (the two rather
go hand in hand) and says that now projects such as Pots Pans
& Boards and his successful chain of Tom’s Kitchen brasseries
provide a certain sense of relief from all that. “The casual concepts
do demand a more accessible approach and as a result the food
naturally becomes simpler and more relaxed,” he explains. “It is
nice to be able to think about more informal dishes and serve
classics like proper British fish and chips or a simple but really great
smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. That said, there is something
about being in a high-pressure kitchen, surrounded by the best
ingredients in the world and producing really high-quality food that

THE INTERVIEW
TOM AIKENS
I just find satisfying. You have to be at the top of your game and
there’s no room for error.”
Thanks to the long hours demanded of chefs, particularly in the
era in which Aikens earned his stripes (or his stars, if you will), this
consumed his entire life. “We worked long days, sometimes 20
hours, with only a very short break and perhaps one day off a week.
When I was training you looked after yourself in order to first survive
and then succeed,” he says. Despite all this, Aikens says that a
different career path was never an option and that he knew from a
young age that the kitchen was where he was meant to be: “I have
always been incredibly competitive and driven; I’d be the first one to
arrive in the morning and the last one out at night. I was constantly
striving to improve, looking around to see whose job I could do
faster and better. It’s a good thing I’ve never needed a lot of sleep
to function,” he adds wryly.
For the outsider looking in, particularly from the working world that
many of us exist in today – one governed by company initiatives
and HR rules – this all sounds rather extreme. Thankfully Aikens
say that things have improved since he was a young commis chef
eager to make his mark: “Working hours are definitely more carefully
monitored now. There’s far greater emphasis placed on mentoring
young chefs these days: spotting talent and really nurturing it and
bringing people along, which is a good thing.”
Spurred on by the fact that he doesn’t consider himself to have
had a mentor, he really looks after the young chefs he thinks have
the potential to flourish. “Within five minutes of meeting a trainee I
can tell if they’ve got what it takes. You can see the people with

This spread, clockwise: Classic Ceasar salad; Seabass; Tom Aiken at
Pots, Pans & Boards; Interior views of Pots, Pans & Boards.
drive, with a desire to succeed: they arrive early, work hard, take
pride in what they do and are constantly pushing themselves,” he
states. His standards must be rather exacting, I venture and he
agrees: “If you show someone something, you want them to do it
that way every time and it’s amazing how many people just don’t get
that. It sounds basic, but it’s such a simple, important thing.”
While Aikens has enjoyed phenomenal career success, there
have also been some well-documented low points as well, which
makes you wonder what advice he gives to those he mentors.
“Besides telling them to put their heads down and work as hard as
they possibly can – which is obvious really – I tell them they need a
game plan,” he explains. “There’s no point just grafting relentlessly
for years without knowing what you want to get out of it. Figure out
the end goal – whether that’s being a head chef, having a string of
restaurants, whatever – and then work out the steps you need to
take and the things you need to do to get there. Time goes so fast
and you’re not young forever, you need a plan.”
Even just chatting to him for a relatively short time it’s clear that
although he may well have mellowed over the years, Tom Aikens’
life is still exhausting. His eyes dart about, his leg taps, his fizzes with
energy: this is not a man who switches off easily. When asked about
relaxation, downtime and work-life balance he laughs as he answers.
“I’ve always said that I don’t really know how to relax, but as time goes
on I think I’m getting a bit better at it. I do still find it really hard to switch
off, even when I’m on holiday. I can’t just lie on the beach and do
nothing. Nowadays it’s not just being in the kitchen, it’s managing all
“Although he may well have

mellowed over the years, Tom Aikens’
life is still exhausting”

THE INTERVIEW
TOM AIKENS
This page: Tom Aikens; Truffle chips & Steak tartare.
“A career as a chef can offer a lot: you can be both creative and practical, you’re able
to travel and develop your skill set and because of that there are a vast number of
opportunities open to you.”
the other projects I’m involved in too. My mind is constantly buzzing, completely. Obviously the kitchen is an extremely tough place to
but I don’t think that’s ever going to change.” be, particularly for women, which isn’t right but that is changing,” he
The difference these days though is that he recognises that for replies passionately. “I’d be very proud and I’d do everything I could
his own health and sanity sometimes he needs to force himself to to support them. A career as a chef can offer a lot: you can be both
zone out or walk away, both literally and metaphorically. “One thing creative and practical, you’re able to travel and develop your skill
I’ve learnt is that I have to exercise. Wherever I am in the world, I set and because of that there are a vast number of opportunities
make sure I spend an hour training everyday without fail. I go to the open to you.”
gym if I can, but if that’s not possible I’ll run or something like that – Unsurprisingly Aikens is full of plans for the future and his schedule,
it’s very important for me not just physically but mentally too.” both immediate and for the next year or so is tightly packed. A
Aikens has two young daughters who help – or indeed coerce – much-anticipated collaboration with his twin brother Robert who is
Words: Sarah Price
him into relaxing from time to time too. When he’s not at work they also a chef is very much on the cards and is likely to happen in the
can all often be found in the family kitchen baking up a storm (no US. Back in the UK, Aikens says that there’s the distinct possibility
finicky food here though, cocoa powder and cake sprinkles are the of a return to real high-end cooking in a fine dining set up, which
order of the day). It’s perhaps not surprising that they’ve shown a given that he’s been away from that particular scene for a few years,
natural aptitude for cooking, which makes me wonder how he’d he’s very excited about – and so should we be.
react if one of them wanted to become a chef. “I’d support them potspansandboards.ae

FOOD & TRAVEL
AWARDS 2018
You have truly made your voice heard this year with almost two million votes cast
across the Gulf for this year’s GCC Food and Travel Awards - now discover who
has made the finals!
ast month we announced the finalists for 2018 GCC
L Food & Travel Awards

Over the last few months almost two million of you
inundated us with votes for your favourite hotels, restaurants, VISIT
chefs, and airlines in the GCC Food and Travel Awards and
you have truly made you voices heard.
See if your favourite hotel or restaurant has made the finals www.foodandtravel.me
to be judged by the expert panel. www.gcctourismawards.com
The winners will announced at the Awards Gala Ceremony
in March 2018. to discover who has
A big thanks to you all for your votes and valuable feedback
made the finals in
each category

Pantry
THE
PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: SUKAINA RAJABALI

WORDS, RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: SARAH PRICE

Napa
KEY ING REDI EN T:
Cabbage
QUICK KIMCHI
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
h January. A month synonymous us introduce you to one of our hero bright white ribs and healthy-looking green
A with abstinence, thrift and the

reigning in of both appetites and
budgets after the indulgence of the festive
ingredients of the month: the Napa cabbage
or Chinese cabbage as it’s sometimes
known. Light, crisp and clean tasting, this
blades – tired, limp leaves do not a tasty
cabbage make.
From salads to slaws, barbecued dishes
season. This is a time for healthy eating, for particular vegetable (a member of the to slow braises, there’s a whole lot you can
turning over a new leaf (while simultaneously brassica family) is something of a do with this leafy vegetable. Top of that list
consuming plenty of salad leaves) and yet heavyweight in the nutrition department and though should be putting it to good use and
who wants to start the new year in is high in fibre, folic acid and vitamins C, K making punchy, pungent kimchi. This
parsimonious fashion? Instead why not kick and B, as low in calories. Perfect January fermented cabbage concoction is the
off 2018’s eating as you mean to go on: fodder indeed. condiment on everyone’s lips, not least
with delicious, wholesome food that tastes To avoid disappointment when selecting because gut or digestive health is big news
fantastic and does you good too. your cabbage look out for those that feel on at the moment and fermented food is being
If that appeals – and why wouldn’t it – let the heavy side for their size and have thick, touted key to helping with all that.

THE PANTRY
KIMCHI CHICKEN
KEBABS
Now before we go any further, let’s make he debate is still ongoing as to early. This new ilk of savoury porridges,
one thing clear: we’re not claiming the
kimchi recipe that follows is entirely
authentic, nor does it go all the way down
T whether Goldilocks would approve,
but there’s no denying it: savoury
porridge is officially a thing. If the thought of
though? Well they might just do that and
more.
Once you realise that the cooked oats
the lacto-fermented route. Real kimchi, the drizzling anything but honey or syrup over are simply a healthy, thrifty, filling base just
funky stuff that bubbles slightly when you your morning bowl of oats is cause for begging to be customised with all manner
open the jar is days, sometimes even consternation, do give the idea a whirl of toppings, this is an easy idea to get on
weeks, in the making. This version is quick before retreating to the safety offered by board with. As well as our recipe for jammy
to prepare, full of crunch and it has a sweetness. eggs and Asian greens, try sautéed
pleasing fire to it that’s just the right side of Real Scottish traditionalists will of course mushrooms, wilted spinach and a dusting
eye watering. Serve it as a side dish, use it maintain that porridge should be made from of parmesan, honeyed pears with
to take a toasted cheese sandwich to the just oats, water and salt, giving it a savoury gorgonzola or roasted aubergine with tahini
next level, employ as a marinade for meat (and rather austere) edge by default. Let’s dressing and a spoonful of yogurt.
or fish or fold a tablespoon or two through be honest though, that’s not the kind of The great thing about all this is that if you
stir-fried rice. breakfast to ease the pain of getting up begin your day with a bowl of porridge you

THE PANTRY
Oats
KEY ING REDI EN T:
SAVOURY PORRIDGE

THE PANTRY
ROSEMARY AND
PARMESAN SEEDED
OAK CRACKERS
really have started it the right way for your stream thus preventing spikes in blood achieving the correct ratio of liquid to oats
body. Oats are a good source of sugar levels. Not only that, they’re high in and stirring the mixture frequently as it cooks.
magnesium, which is known to help with protein, contain zinc, potassium and iron Of course, oats have culinary uses far
heart health, and evidence also suggests and will keep you feeling full for far longer beyond porridge. Use them to coat meat or
that consuming magnesium-rich food than sugary cereal will. fish instead of breadcrumbs, add a handful
reduces the risk of type-2 diabetes. The Whether sweet or savoury, the texture of to a smoothie for bulk, sprinkle them over
soluble fibre in oats gives digestive systems your porridge is of the utmost importance: gratins or crumbles before baking, make
a much-needed boost, can lower you want the end result to be creamy and your own granola bars or try our really rather
cholesterol levels and also slows the rich rather than tacky or gluey and the oats moreish nut and seed-packed homemade
absorption of carbohydrates into the blood should retain a little bite. Success lies in rosemary oat cakes.

This spread, left to right: Labriz aerial view
Silouhette Island Coast; Labriz Beachfront
villa; Labriz Private Pool
Simply
SeychellesThe Seychelles; palm-fringed white beaches, balmy waters, lush green
islands and the warm embrace of a golden sun!
SILHOUETTE ISLAND postcard beach. The resort is perched in front of a shallow lagoon
We arrived at Mahé airport, and despite the long flight we were enjoying amazing views towards North Island and Mahé. Most of
given a tonic by the big-hearted hospitality and genuinely friendly the island is a national park, offering unspoilt walking trails, and the
welcome from our driver, who smoothly whisked us through a waters surrounding Silhouette are a marine reserve.
twenty minutes journey along a zigzag of narrow country roads to The stunning villas have a distinct character. The spacious rooms,
the Bel Ombre Jetty, where we were greeted by the reception team with their spectacular ocean views, are tastefully furnished, deep
from Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort & Spa, ready for our short soft sofas set by the large picture window, the bathrooms have
45-minute voyage to Silhouette Island which is located just 20 km a separate bathtub, walk-in shower and open up onto a private
northwest of Mahé. garden, complete with private outdoor rain-showers, and of course
We knew that we had arrived at our own little piece of paradise; king-size comfortable beds, all complemented by the light hues
Hilton Seychelles Labriz, a picturesque resort carved out of the lush from a palette of natural colours offering a light airy atmosphere.
tropical mountains that reaches down to the balmy clear waters of Each villa is equipped with every modern convenience including
the Indian Ocean, that sparkle with hints of azure and aquamarine, Wi-Fi, flat screen TVs and DVD players.
gently lapping against the powdery white sand of the picture-perfect The Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort truly offers a glimpse of a

WORLD TRAVELLER
“Your own little piece of paradise; Hilton

Seychelles Labriz, a picturesque resort
carved out of the lush tropical mountains”.

WORLD TRAVELLER
“The resort boasts seven restaurants, including a pizzeria and Grann Kaz,
which is set in an old plantation house”
peaceful life that warmly envelops you in an almost hypnotic sense of the Teppanyaki as well as Italian fine dining at Portobello restaurant.
well-being, only to find that you have basked most of the day away; Breakfast is served at Café Dauban, offering a lavish selection of
lying lazily by the beach, reading a book, swimming in the ocean, or international dishes from dim sum and noodles to cereals and fresh
just sipping on a cool drink while soaking up the sun. There is plenty fruits.
to choose from for those feeling more energetic; take a hike through Grann Kaz is set in a historic plantation house located within its
the rainforest or set out on a kayaking or diving adventure. own private enclave in Village La Passe, just a short stroll away.
The expansive public areas feature acres of polished marble and Once home to the Dauban family, the former owners of the island,
tropical hardwood decking, water features and a natural freshwater the building has been restored with an homage to the island’s rich
lagoon crossed by an arched pedestrian bridge. The staff are warm English and French heritage, and to reflect modern Seychellois
and willing to help, but the service is not especially dynamic; hotel chic, creating an intimate restaurant
facilities include a well-equipped gym, a PADI five-star diving centre Enjoy modern Italian cuisine amidst the contemporary elegant
as well as tennis courts, a large pool, and spa that offers a wide chic décor at Portobello as you enjoy stunning views of Mount
range of treatments and massages. Dauban. Dine in air conditioned comfort, or eat al fresco on the
We decided to go snorkelling, and once the safety procedures terrace beside the tranquil lake.
were covered Once we were given the green light and our Our meal offered mixed-blessings, but on the whole was an
underwater adventure began. The waters were teeming with life; enjoyable experience; the starter of Carpaccio di Manzo - beef
green sea and hawksbill turtles, stingrays, jellyfish, white tip sharks, carpaccio, aged Parmesan and white truffle oil was disappointing,
and variety of tropical fish, including - Butterflyfish, Queen Angelfish, the meat lacked flavour and texture, and was cut too thick; whilst
Hump-head Parrotfish, Regal Tang, Clownfish, Zebrafish, and the Prosciutto, Caprino e Pesca - Parma ham, goat’s cheese and
Napoleon Wrasses to name but a few roast peach salad, was OK, although the goat’s cheese caprine
After the exertions of snorkelling we opted to try the Creole was golden with the right amount of crispy crumb on the outside
cooking class and lunch. To start we made - mango and smoked was totally devoid of any goats cheese on the inside. To follow we
Marlin salad which was an explosion of flavours; we were quite had Costolette di Agnello - grilled lamb chops, aubergine caponata,
surprised to see so many unusual ingredients working so well rosemary potatoes. The meat was served, as requested, medium
together. The fish was delectable, so much so that we’ll be trying with just right amount of pink in the centre, unfortunately the rosemary
this dish at home! For the mains, we made Octopus curry; a native potatoes hard and the vegetables were swimming in oil. Conversely
Seychelles’ dish, and I would highly recommend this to anyone the Spaghetti Bolognese, ordered off-menu; the fresh cooked beef
looking to try something different. For dessert we made Banana ragout and golden spaghetti was a delight. To complete our meal,
Ladob, which was sweet, thick, creamy and rich in flavour. All the we both decided to try the Tiramisu Quasi Classico – a traditional
ingredients complemented each other perfectly, particularly the tiramisu, with vanilla ice cream, which was lovely and creamy with a
cocoa nut milk - really yummy! slight crunchiness and a coating of powdered chocolate. A definite
The resort boasts seven restaurants, including a pizzeria and must have!
Grann Kaz, which is set in an old plantation house, Japanese at www.hiltonseychelleslabriz.com

Opposite page, left to right: Olive’s scallop; Todd in the kitchen;
Bellagio restaurant Olive’s bar
MAHÉ
Having sampled the delights of Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort
we changed location to the peaceful couples retreat of The Hilton
Seychelles Northolme Resort & Spa which is located on the west
coast of Mahé, and overlooks Beau Vallon Bay. The hotel is a
quiet, secluded couples retreat, and the beach has the feel of a
hidden desert island cove, set in a lush tropical paradise. The al
fresco restaurants and lobby have high wooden ceilings in the
classic Seychellois style. The palette of brown hues and marble
are highlighted with turquoise accents lending an airy feel that lends
itself to a relaxing stay far from the urban bustle of city life. This
romantic atmosphere tends to draw couples, and children under
12 are not allowed.
The Hilton Seychelles Northolme consists of large, private villas,
which all enjoy sea views and have private decks. The Beach
Villas are closer to reception and the resort’s restaurants, whilst the
Hillside Villas are quieter and more secluded; but whatever you pick,
you won’t go wrong. The décor is contemporary chic with swathes
of natural woods, cane and four-poster canopy beds, draped with
white curtains for that romantic touch. The walls are adorned with
vibrant art, the balconies are spacious, and the amenities plentiful,
from flat-screen TVs and DVD players to espresso makers and
mini-bars. The natural bathrooms have free-standing tubs and open
showers and fabulous ocean views.
Nestling beside a strip of white-sand the hotel’s freeform infinity
pool appears to flow into the Indian Ocean; and there are ample sun
beds and beach umbrellas for poolside lounging. If you are looking
for something a little less busy there’s also a free shuttle to nearby
Beau Vallon Beach. On-site activities include free kayaking and
snorkelling, a 24-hour fitness centre loaded with state-of-the-art
cardio and weight equipment, with a private sun terrace for a post-
workout break. Try the yoga pavilion or on-site. Duniye Spa which
offers spa and beauty treatments, including Balinese, Thai, and
Swedish massage along with Reiki energy work. And the hotel’s gift
shop sells clothing, handicrafts, souvenirs, and the usual holiday
necessities such as sunscreen.
There are three restaurants at the resort, Les Cocotiers is a fine-
dining restaurant serving Creole cuisine. The Hilltop Restaurant
serves buffet-style meals, and The Ocean-view Bar and Restaurant
serves snacks, signature cocktails, and fresh fruit juices and often
features live music performances. with 24-hour room service for
those who would rather dine in their villas.
The Hilltop Restaurant enjoy stunning panoramic views. Relax
in the casual, dining room and savour the delights of local and
international buffet menus for breakfast and dinner. Watch the
expert chefs prepare your meal at the live cooking stations and
don’t miss the exciting Creole evening on Mondays with authentic
Creole food and local entertainment. Les Cocotiers Restaurant
offers fine dining under the stars. Eat al fresco restaurant and
enjoy spectacular ocean views as you choose from the à la carte
menu that features a range of Creole-international fusion dishes.
And unwind in the stylish interiors of the Ocean View Bar or on the
decked balcony for views of ocean coves and starlit nights. Sip on
the finest international cocktails and freshly squeezed juices, as the
strains of live music make for the perfect accompaniment to any
sunset.
We dined at Les Cocotiers, to start I had the Coconut Crusted
Shrimp with passion fruit and chilli, the dish was elegantly plated and
the portion size was just right; the coconut crust providing the perfect
foil to each mouthful of moist shrimp with every bite. The vegetables
garnish was just the correct amount of sweet and coated ever so

WORLD TRAVELLER
This page: Northolme Hilltop restaurant;
Little Ben; Hindu Temple in Mahé.
Mahé Day Trip

pleasingly with a light dressing, the perfect appetizer! For our mains, If you have the time (or inclination) it’s worth taking a visit
we ordered - rib eye and fillet. The Rib eye was served on a slab of around Mahé. We took a tour a spacious, comfortable air-
slate, which whilst looking attractive, just isn’t how fine food should conditioned car. Visit the Mission Lodge Heritage site, to
be served. The portion sizes were generous, although upon reflection see the foundations of Venn’s town ruins that had mostly
there was far too much fat left on the steak. The meat was juicy, been covered due to dense forest vegetation. Go to the
flavourful and perfectly cooked. The peppercorn sauce seasoned viewing platform, where you can read about the historical
this dish beautifully, but was a little on the watery side. Pleasingly events, and admire the numerous valleys and coastline.
the sides of baked potato wedges and crispy onion rings were just See the Seychelles Little Ben clock tower monument,
right. The fillet was lean, tender, it was just a shame there wasn’t situated in the centre of a busy, small roundabout in Victoria,
more of it. The steak was cooked as requested, and the peppercorn and then on to on to St Paul’s cathedral where you can
sauce gave it the little kick it needed. To top of the meal we ordered admire the beautiful stain glass windows and architecture
Island mess local tropical fruit mini meringues vanilla cream rum of the Arul Mihu Navasakthi Vinayagar (Hindu) Temple,
and chocolate sauce and Pineapple, tartan vanilla ice cream. Both which is quite deceptive, looking small from the outside
desserts were pleasant but just too much, even for my sweet tooth. yet spacious inside. The Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market
offers as a wide variety of arts and crafts, fish, fruits, flowers,
“The flavour of the snapper was spices, and clothes. Tucked away at the end of the high
street away from all the hustle and bustle is the News Café;
delightful, and the meat flaked worth a stop for a short break, to escape the hot and humid
effortlessly from the bone ” market. Try coconut and vanilla ice cream accompanied by
two bottles of Seybrew (the local hops). The coconut ice
Having caught the bug earlier in the week we decided to take the cream is refreshing, milky and the small chunks of coconut
Cooking Class At Hilltop. For our starters we had - Tuna tartare, Pan are heavenly. The botanical garden is a must for nature
Seared Scallop and Salmon Roe. The presentation of this dish was enthusiasts and offers a 30-minute tour around the exotic
sublime, it was minimal, elegant, and pleasing to the eye. The fresh and unique flora of Mahé.
tuna steak, seared for a minute each side, the buttered seasoned www.creoletravelservices.com
scallops bounced off the other ingredients on the plate well and the
Salmon Roe had a subtle, mild flavour, both plates were cleared
and our mains then brought over. For our mains we tried – slow
cooked snapper, buttered vegetables, green mussels, crusted
potato served with confit pumpkin puree and café au lait. The Red
Snapper was sweet and had a lean, firm moist texture, served over
golden-crusted potatoes, and mussels. The flavours of the snapper
were delightful, and the meat flaked effortlessly from the fish. The
crunch of the potatoes balanced the flavour and texture beautifully.
The mussels were soft, and added a touch of salt, and the pumpkin
puree was thick and creamy. Dessert was a mouth-watering fruit
platter that consisted of; passion fruit, pineapple, kiwi, melon,
orange, banana, strawberry, pomegranate, and star fruit.
www3.hilton.com

Simply
S
FOOD FOCUS
T H E B E ST
There is no sincerer love than the love of food
GEORGE BERNARD SHAW
PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: SUKAINA RAJABALI

WORDS, RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: SARAH PRICE
W
hen Nick Alvis and Scott Price came up with the menu like the one they implemented at the tail end of 2017,
concept for the food at Folly by Nick & Scott, the is months in the making. Following the initial conception of a
award-winning restaurant that they run in Madinat dish, which might come from a few notes jotted on a piece of
Jumeirah, they did so with a view to doing something a bit paper or a hastily drawn sketch, followed by weeks of recipe
different. Moving away from the now ubiquitous sharing plates testing, tweaking and development. The different elements are
concept they instead created a menu made up of small plates reworked, ingredients experimented with and changes made
(starters are smaller than average, as are mains and the prices until both chefs are happy that the dish deserves a place on
reflect this) which essentially frees you from the rigors of a the Folly menu.
traditional three course meal and encourages diners to put Here Nick and Scott have given Food and Travel readers
together their own tasting menu. exclusive access to the recipes for some of those new dishes
As you can imagine, an almost complete revamp of the entire and also shared their favourite meals when cooking at home.
FOOD FOCUS
JASMINE RICE, MARMITE GOATS CHEESE, TAMARIND

AND COURGETTE AND CORIANDER SEEDS
NICK: This recipe is deliberately a vegan one. We always try to have SCOTT: This is a really good example of the way we put our
one or two completely vegan dishes on our menus, as well as a few dishes together so that the textures and flavours complement
others that can be made vegan if necessary – that way we know each other on the plate: smooth, rich goats’ cheese, tangy-sharp
we’re still offering guests with dietary requirements plenty of choice. tamarind and then the crispy coriander-infused crouton that’s
I really wanted to use Marmite here as it provides a huge flavour almost like a piece of fried bread.
hit in the same way that a concentrated meat reduction does. The The quantities for the tamarind chutney will yield more than you
jasmine rice mousse brings lightness to the dish, the courgettes need, but that’s a good thing; it will keep in the fridge in a sealed
provide a clean burst of flavour and the crispy job’s tears add an jar or container for a couple of weeks and tastes fantastic with a
integral chewy-crunchy texture. piece of aged cheddar.
DID YOU KNOW /INSIDER INFO TIP

Job’s tears might just be the next big thing in the culinary world. This Remove the piping bag with the goats’ cheese from the fridge 30
naturally gluten-free grain has a chewy, vaguely sweet, earthy taste minutes before serving. This allows the flavour to really develop
and can also be added to soups and broths, served in salads or and means that it can easily be piped onto the plate as well.
offered in place of rice or cous cous.

FOOD FOCUS
ROE DEER TARTARE, CHARCOAL AND these are given a bit of a twist and prepared using modern
WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE techniques.
NICK: This recipe is of course based on a classic steak It’s well worth making extra of the cornichons – they’re great
tartare, we simply use roe deer shoulder to make it a little bit added to a cheeseboard and keep for several weeks in a
different. The dish features all the traditional tartare elements sealed jar too. If you can’t get hold of roe deer a lean, tender
– egg yolk, cornichons, Worcestershire sauce, shallots – but cut such as veal sirloin or beef tenderloin will work well too.

FOOD FOCUS
SNAILS, GARLIC SHOOTS AND PARSLEY

NICK: I’ve always loved snails and whenever I eat in a French brasserie
I order them. For me the best bit is dipping the crusty baguette into the
pool of garlic butter at the end, so I wanted to try and recreate that with
this dish in a slightly more unorthodox way, which is where the idea for
the snail doughnuts came from.
This recipe is a time-consuming one so I’d recommend breaking
down the process over three or four days. Start by making the brioche
dough, then cook the snails in the emulsion and finally wrap them. It
sounds like a lot of effort, but when you bite into a piping hot mini
doughnut filled with garlicky butter it will be worth it.

FOOD FOCUS
GINGERBREAD AND LEMON THYME

NICK: We wanted to put a gingerbread dish on the menu
for ages, but couldn’t quite agree on what to do. After much
experimentation, this is the result and we really pleased with it.
The crispy wafers have all the classic spicy-sweet flavour that
you associate with gingerbread, the parfait is rich and creamy
without being overwhelming and the infused sorbet balances
both element and provides a nice cleanness.
If you want you could make this dessert simpler by serving the
gingerbread parfait topped with crumbled ginger biscuits.
TIP
Scoop the sorbet well ahead of serving it and refreeze it on a
baking tray. That way you don’t have to worry about it melting
as you plate the dish up.

FOOD FOCUS
ELDERFLOWER AND APPLE than cutting the cheesecake into individual slices you could
CHEESECAKE bring it to the table whole and portion it up from there.
SCOTT: This is a really clean, simple dessert that’s indulgent We like to make our own digestive biscuits, but to save time
without being overwhelming and also acts as a bit of a palette you could always buy them readymade and skip straight to step
cleanser thank to the green apple sorbet. If you prefer, rather three in this recipe.

FOOD FOCUS

FOOD FOCUS
SCOTT’S QUINOA SALAD WITH FETA, NICK’S CHICKEN CURRY

POMEGRANATES AND CHARRED NICK: Several members of my family were born in India, so I
SPRING ONIONS grew up eating Indian food and this is my go-to chicken curry
SCOTT: I’m a big fan of quinoa; it’s filling, healthy, versatile and absorbs recipe. I started cooking it when I was a young chef working
other flavours nicely too. I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t cook a huge in Versailles, just outside of Paris. As you can imagine, I didn’t
amount at home, but I do often make a big batch of quinoa on my day have much money at the time (I was being paid very little and
off so that it’s ready and waiting in the fridge for the nights when I get our rent was high), and this was a cost-effective, filling meal
home from work feeling ravenous. I like serving the grain with crispy that reminded me of home. Chicken legs are often neglected in
chickpeas, halloumi and grilled chicken, but this recipe is probably my favour of the more expensive breast meat, but legs have a much
favourite and the one I make the most often. The creamy feta, tangy better flavour and cooking them on the bone means the meat
dressing and brightness from the pomegranate seeds works well stays really moist too.
together and the charred spring onions make a great final addition.

THE INTERVIEW
This page, clockwise: Aerial
view of Four Seasons Hotel
Bahrain; A suite at the Four
Seasons; The staircase at
CUT; Richard Raab.
IN THE SUN
Swedish born Richard Raab, initially wanted to become the captain of an
ocean liner, fortunately for us the loss to the Cruise Ship industry was a big win
for us land-lubbers.
t is clear to anyone who speaks with Richard Raab that he exudes Manager at Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills; the
I pride in his work, his personal ethos of excellence is reflected in

his every action. After almost two decades with Four Seasons,
one of the finest hotel chains in the world today, Raab is now GM of
result being the journey that has brought him to Bahrain today.
“As a company, we encourage our people to excel, and I find
mentoring people to reach their dreams extremely rewarding; I was
the iconic Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay. mentored during my career and I know how valuable it can be.”
Having gained valuable experience over the years, across the offered Raab. “After all we work in a service culture – and I encourage
Four Seasons chain, from St Petersburg and Dubai to Beverley staff to interact with our guests and show their own character, and
Hills and Nevis, his depth of knowledge and skill sets have been more importantly to be proud of, and showcase their own crafts
finely honed, making Raab the ideal person to lead the team at this and skills. Whether they be a barman creating exceptional cocktails,
unique urban resort. a spa therapist providing soothing treatments or a chef cooking
Before settling on becoming a hotelier Raab hankered after a extraordinary culinary dishes.” he concluded.
career on the high seas? “I used to spend my summers visiting Raab firmly believes the essence of excellent customer service to
my grandparents in Geiranger, a picturesque village in the west be “Emotional Intelligence” the need to be able to read the guest and
of Norway, which attracted many cruise ships and I worked as a anticipate their needs. Something that is different with each guest
tour guide to the passengers.” he stated. “Who wouldn’t want the and can even be different for same guest on different occasions.
chance to captain a cruise ship; a crisp uniform, greeting guests For example, the same guest may be visiting on a business trip,
and hosting the captain’s table? I realised a cruise ship was really a with its particular set of requirements and next time they may be
floating hotel and that’s what I wanted to do.” he added. over for a family weekend, and as such have an entirely different
We asked what kept Raab with the company for almost 20 years? set of priorities.
“I think that the underlying company ethos that brought me to Four When asked what he felt personified his unique approach to the
Seasons, is one of the main aspects that is still as important today.” industry? Raab commented “At the end of the day being a hotelier
he started. “Treat everybody the way you would want to be treated is a challenging job. But we are all responsible for our own day,
yourself! This echoed with me – so I went to London and applied for a from the moment we wake up each morning; and sometimes things
job and started as a waiter” Which led to Raab eventually joining Four don’t go as planned. Therefor it is important to learn from setbacks
Seasons in 1998 as the Assistant Restaurant Manager and Banquet and grow from them!” he added.

THE INTERVIEW
RICHARD RAAB
This page, clockwise: Four Seasons Lobby lounge; CUT

dining room; Bahrain Bay Kitchen Chef; Richard Raab,
General Manager; CUT staircase.
Moving on to the changes brought about by the world of

technology, Raab points out that although it is clearly playing
a bigger and growing role within the industry, Four Seasons will
always be a people business; but a business that recognises its
benefits. Four Seasons is now enlisting technology as a valuable
tool to enhance the guest experience, by launching a new chat
function for its Global App. “The Four Seasons Chat is a new digital
service that lets guests send and receive instant messages with the
hotel team before, during and after their stay, using technology to
get more personal, delivering our legendary Four Seasons service at
their fingertips at any time, from anywhere.Technological innovation
delivered with a distinctly human touch.” says Raab. “One of the
best features is that it is a multi-lingual tool. So, a guest can order a
service or make a booking in Arabic, and the message is translated
into the preferred language of the receiving party, who can then
reply, for example in English, and the guest receives his response
in Arabic.” Clearly a great boon to customer care in this hi-tech age,
where almost everyone seems to live their life via their smart phone.
Raab is clearly a fan of Bahrain, a kingdom steeped in history, rich
in culture and a passion for food. “I love Bahrain, it is open and the
people are very friendly and approachable.” He says adding “Bahrain
has a vibrant local culinary scene with a string of international brands
located at hotels such as the Four Seasons or stand-alone.”
The local market is important to Raab. “I love to visit local
restaurants, and try new things. There are home-grown and
international treasures to be found; a traditional Bahraini Breakfast

at Saffron, the hidden gem that is Villa Mama’s and the wonderfully
authentic Mexican cuisine at Cantina Kahlo.”
The knowledge garnered from his forays around the island are
soon found inspiring new initiatives at the Four Seasons, such
as an evening at re Asian with guest chef, and Bahrain stalwart,
Michael Sang-Kyu Lee, the Executive Chef and driving force behind
Bahrain’s Meisei and Brian Becher, Executive Chef of re Asian
Cuisine and CUT by Wolfgang Puck.
On discussing the trends and expectations for 2018 at the Four
Seasons Bahrain Bay, Raab is enthusiastic. “The CUT Bar and
Lounge has now firmly established itself as a popular venue; it is no
longer a bar you visit pre-dinner at CUT but a destination in its own
right – we have a fabulous new menu for the Blue Moon Lounge,
and our unpolished diamond, our Shisha Lounge where you can
relax beside the infinity pool and see the wonderful Bahrain skyline.”
Other initiatives include a Water Taxi service across the bay to the
new waterfront shopping experience at the Avenues; a steal at only
one dinar; offering easy access to the mall for hotel guests and hassle-
free access to the hotel’s fabulous facilities to Avenue shoppers too.
Images: Four Seasons
Raab relishes the challenges of running a hotel in Bahrain. “The

Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay is a unique and iconic building,
the architecture and interior design are exceptional, the product is
second to none and this hotel would be at home in London’s Park
Lane, the Champs-Élysées in Paris or New York City’s 5th Avenue.
- I am extremely proud of the hotel and my team!” he concluded.
fourseasons.com

GAME ON
Sophie Ibbotson discovers an exclusive safari lodge, in Zambia’s remote
Liuwa Plains National Park.
J
ourneying to the King Lewanika Lodge is not for the We inched our way across and disembarked onto the sandy
faint-hearted. A light aircraft drops you on the airstrip at track which serves as a road in the dry season. When it rains
Kalabo on the edge of the Liuwa Plains, but there’s as and the track disappears beneath the water, the only way to
yet no bridge to get across the river into the national park. reach the lodge is by helicopter.
We drove with painstaking care onto the metal pontoon, our At this point there is still a two-hour drive through the park
Land Cruiser taking up the bulk of the space on-board. A few to go, but as the Land Cruiser bumps and bounces along the
colourfully attired ladies, their equally bright umbrellas up to track there’s plenty to see on the way. First and foremost are
protect them from the rain, squatted alongside as our driver the villages. The Liuwa Plains is one of the oldest protected
and the ferryman pulled hand over hand on the metal cable. areas in Africa — a royal hunting ground since the 1880s —

WORLD TRAVELLER
“The villages thin out and the

plains stretch as far as the eye
can see, with scarcely a solitary
tree to disturb the horizon”
and the king still designates specific areas for each family thatch covering the roof is exactly the same colour as the
to use. Children ran out to greet us on the road, waving surrounding grasslands. We looped around and approached
enthusiastically. Tourists are, it seems, still quite a novelty here. the lodge from the rear, looking out for a lion lurking in the
But then the villages thin out and the plains stretch as far shadows of the trees.
as the eye can see, with scarcely a thicket or solitary tree A reception committee awaited us, welcome drinks in hand, but
to disturb the horizon. You won’t spot the King Lewanika as we drove in there was a message on the radio: two cheetahs
Lodge until you’re almost on top of it: architects Silvio Rech had been spotted nearby. It was a split-second decision to skip
and Lesley Carstens’ magnificent creation is low rise, built the formalities and tour of our rooms, but the chance of a cheetah
predominantly of natural materials, and the swathe of golden sighting is not something you’d want to miss.

WORLD TRAVELLER
The sun was now sinking, turning the sky a glorious pink.
Eagle-eyed guide Innocent scanned the dusky horizon for any
rapid movement of zebra or wildebeest which might suggest there
was a cheetah in hot pursuit. But in fact all was remarkably peaceful,
and what he ultimately spied was a single head in silhouette, poking
up above the grass. We had long left the sand track behind, but
the vehicle was comfortable enough off road and at this speed the
engine noise was little more than a loud cat’s purr. We came closer,
and closer still. The cheetah, though aware of our presence, was
completely unconcerned, focusing instead into the distance in case
a hare or other small animal was unlucky enough to pass by. We
stepped down from the Land Cruiser and Innocent laid out a table
of drinks and snacks. In the half-light we drank a toast, excitable as
children at what we had just been privileged enough to see.
It was not until the following morning that I fully explored the lodge.
Its arching frame is like the ribcage of a whale or other giant beast,
but as the areas between the beams and struts are completely
open, you hardly realise they are there. No glass obscures your
views of the plains, and the breeze which blows through is most
welcome, especially in the mid-day heat.
The Time +Tide lodge is open plan, and the restaurant area

This spread, clockwise: A lion pride in Liuwa Plains National Park;
Zebra on the plains; Time + Tide King Lewanika; Cheetah at sunset;
Hyena in the grass; Dinner at Time + Tide King Lewanika; Lounge
area of the King Lewanika suites.
“You get a front row seat as vast

numbers of wildebeest and zebra
come here to calf.”
segues naturally into the bar and thence to the lounge and wide
wooden deck. It is half tempting to sit and read the scattering of
magazines and coffee table books, but then you glance up and
remember where you are: the plains are just too enticing. I sat, or
rather dangled, in a hammock seat strung from the beams, my legs
swaying gently. I was transfixed by the swishing of the grasses, and
the wildebeest with their young wandering by.
Each morning starts with a coffee at first light, then a drive out into
the park. Staying here, you get a front row seat on Africa’s second
largest wildlife migration, as vast numbers of wildebeest and zebra
come here to calf. The size of the herds is impressive, for sure,
but it is the carnivores which are the real draw. Following in the
wildebeests’ wake are not only the cheetah, but clans of hyena up
to 95 strong, and plenty of lions, too.
I saw five lions in a single morning: a dominant male, a female,
and their three cubs of differing ages. A decade ago there was just
one lion here, a lioness by the name of Lady Liuwa, but under the
management of African Parks the population is slowly recovering.
The Zambian Carnivore Programme has its research station
adjacent to the lodge, and they keep a close watch on the lions. We
sat in the Land Cruiser, eyes wide open in awe, as the lion lounged
in the sunshine, drank from the pans, and played. One of the older
cubs was teaching his little brother to hunt, stalking imaginary prey
through the grass. Zebras, sensibly, kept their distance, safe at
least for now.
Return to the lodge mid-morning, invariably heralds brunch, and
by this time the day is already becoming warm. We joined staff
and fellow guests at a long wooden dining table which would not
look out of place in a medieval hall. You can of course dine alone,
enjoying a romantic meal for two, but with such a small community
— the lodge accommodates a maximum of 15 guests — it is far

WORLD TRAVELLER
This page clockwise: The view from the lodge; Family villa; The rain
showers at King Lewanika
more fun to trade stories of nearly-too-close wildlife encounters and

to share photography tips.
In spite of the distance from civilisation, every meal here is
a succulent feast. Grilled aubergine with honey sticks sweetly
on the tongue and contrasts starkly with the crunchiness of red
cabbage and the tang of citrus segments. The soft, warm bread is
always homemade, and one evening we were treated to an indoor
barbecue (the weather having turned somewhat stormy), drawing
a collective gasp, at the number and variety of dishes, each one
somehow more delicious than the last.
Now I haven’t yet told you about the rooms: I’ve been saving the
best until last. Technically I suppose they are tents, but that word
hardly does justice to the design. Each huge canvas-clad suite
stretches out atop an extensive wooden deck, the sides rolling up
to unveil the great outdoors. More than one afternoon I lay back on
the king size bed for an hour or more just staring at the natural world
before me.
A bathroom is typically an enclosed space, but not so at King
Lewanika. The two rain showers — one indoors, the other outside
— are divided by nothing more than a removable canvas wall. Get away from the noise and the bustle of everyday life
The outdoor option is open to the sky but screened in such a way and find peace in the unspoilt wilderness surrounding
that no one else can see you. Standing in the heat of the sun, the King Lewanika Lodge. This stunningly designed
feeling its heat on your skin, whilst looking up into the trees or out haven really does make the most of its natural location,
across the grasslands is nothing short of magical, and possible and the charming staff go to great lengths to ensure you
only in a place such as this where other people are so few and get the most extraordinary wildlife encounters. Safari
far between. drives may be hot and dusty, but the lodge itself is a
And that more than anything is the draw of this lodge: it’s an calm, cool oasis, an unmatched retreat which will make
incredibly exclusive affair. With so few guests at King Lewanika, and you fall in love with Africa’s landscapes, its wildlife, and
no other lodge in the park, the focus is completely on you and what its sunsets time and time again.
you want to see and do. The lion and cheetah are unperturbed A four-night stay with Africa Exclusive at the King
by people and vehicles because they’re rare and cause them no Lewanika Lodge, including return flights from Lusaka
harm. You know when you approach a wildebeest herd, or draw up to Kalabo, starts from $7,449 per person. For more
beside a flock of birds, that they won’t take fright. No one else will information visit safari.co.uk or enquiries@safari.co.uk
obstruct your view. +44 1604 628979
Images: Sophie Ibbotson; Norman Carr; Ben Tavener

THE Big BREAKFAST NOMAD URBAN EATERY B A H R A I N
The exquisite space and casual atmosphere set the stage for a sophisticated
and luxurious experience
tart your day in style with a leisurely breakfast with Nomad from the Nomad team, expertly led by Alberto Pardo, who brings
S Urban Eatery, the All Day Casual Dining choice for all the right
reasons, delivering a chic dining experience. You will find this
culinary pearl at The Courtyard, located in Bahrain’s Al Seef District.
a wealth of experience from his time with Jamie Oliver and the late
Antonio Carluccio, and chef Steve McGowan whose experience
includes Murano with Gordon Ramsey & Angela Hartnett, and
The restaurant pays meticulous attention to detail, displaying Bibendum, which set it apart from the pack.
flair and its own unique signature style; the exquisite space and If you like to start your day with a healthy breakfast then try the
casual atmosphere set the stage for a sophisticated and luxurious Peanut Butter Acai Bowl, a delightful mixture of fresh strawberries,
experience; but it isn’t just the fine food and décor that impresses banana, almond milk, granola, peanut butter and cocoa nibs, or
at Nomad, the enticing menu and attentive knowledgeable service perhaps spoil yourself with the rich flavours of White Chocolate and
Above: Vibrant interior; Below: Matcha Chai Coffee; Dining area; Shakshouka

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This page, clockwise: Acai bowl; Main dining area; Eggs royale; Breakfast bao.
“The array of mouth-watering

dishes and cuisines is
provocatively tempting.”
Matcha French Toast, served with berries, whipped vanilla cream,
and blueberry syrup; an indulgent take on this breakfast classic that
simply oozes flavour, ensuring your taste buds are in for a rare treat.
The Truffle Bao, offers a light savoury alternative, two soft white
buns filled a fluffy scrambled egg, topped with wild mushrooms and
truffle; a simple yet delicious dish. If you are looking for something
altogether more substantial then the aptly named Eggs Royale is a
welcome treat. House-smoked salmon, wilted spinach, perfectly
cooked poached eggs, served on a lightly toasted English muffin,
covered with a generous helping of smooth and delightfully
unctuous hollandaise sauce. A new arrival on the Nomad breakfast
menu is a thin crispy breakfast pizza, this epicurean breakfast treat
is topped with tomato, crispy beef bacon and quail eggs.
For those looking for more local-style breakfast fare, then Middle
East staple Shakshouka is your ideal choice. This appealing sharing
dish, is served in a cast iron skillet, and consists of eggs nestled on
top of a delicious rich combination of tomato, and peppers, that is
lightly spiced, and served with two quenelles of lightly smoked labneh
and a generous side of toasted homemade rye sourdough bread.
Nomad certainly lives up to our expectations; The array of mouth-
watering dishes and cuisines is provocatively tempting. Whether
you choose to dine for breakfast, a quick business lunch, a delicious
dinner, late-night fare or just coffee Nomad has something for every
taste. And if that isn’t enough look out for Nomad’s imaginative
loyalty program.
+973 1700 0330 @nomadeaterybh

SERGIO HERMAN
A DUTCH MASTER
I was so focused on winning Michelin stars; and it was fantastic when
I received them!
here is a general consensus among chefs that to excel inside anymore and I knew that I needed more free time for myself in order
T the kitchen you need a certain mentality. Coping with long

hours in a stressful and heated environment is not for the faint
hearted, nor is the near constant striving for perfection. Therefore,
to discover the world. I didn’t see life outside of the kitchen. “I was
so focused on winning the stars and it was fantastic when I received
them. That is not part of my life anymore, I am free of it. Also, I don’t
you need to be a little bit crazy. And Sergio Herman, well, he is a have the ego anymore to want it again. I am happier now than I was
little crazier than most. before because working for that long in that small kitchen brought
The famed Dutch chef shocked the culinary world back in 2013 me nothing. “Yes, it brought me more as a chef and I was able to
when he decided to close the doors of his renowned restaurant Oud grow and work to perfection, but it brought me nothing else in my
Sluis. Having worked for decades to put it on the map, gained three life. I missed a lot in those 25 years.”
Michelin stars and a place on the San Pellegrino’s prestigious World Now Herman finds himself in Dubai preparing an eight-course
50 Best Restaurants list, Herman suddenly decided that a change menu at At.mosphere, the restaurant located on the 122nd floor
was needed. “No one could talk me out of it,” he exclaims. “I was of the Burj Khalifa. It is the type of project he can now undertake
working for 25 years in Oud Sluis and I had reached everything. I thanks to the freedom that came with closing Oud Sluis. Yet the
had the three stars and the recognition but it was a combination 47-year-old is far from content. He believes he moved too quickly
of a small space and too many people. “I didn’t feel the growth in opening The Jane, his contemporary restaurant in Antwerp.

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, left to right; Sergio Herman; The Jane restaurant in Antwerp, Belgium; Jane dessert; Sergio Herman.
Housed in a former chapel of a military hospital, it has already been hard and keep my two feet on the ground,” says Herman. “I think he
awarded two Michelin stars and delivers mind-blowing flavours saw I had potential very quickly but he never told me to my face. He
that are both simple and sophisticated. But Herman appears to was very strict, but at the same time he was great to work with and
once again be ready for a major change. “I closed Oud Sluis and I we never fought in the kitchen. “My dad taught me all the basics
went immediately into The Jane, and I missed my family during that and he is definitely me mentor. But he had a hard life and I saw my
period,” he says. “I went immediately 200 kilometres an hour into parents work extremely hard so I wasn’t always sure I would follow
the next project and that wasn’t good. “I have only realised now that in his footsteps. “But I had a moment of clarity when working at a
is wasn’t a good thing and that I should have just taken a breath and two Michelin star restaurant in Holland. They were very happy with
had six months or a year where I could just wake up a little bit. “Now me and in that moment I realised I wanted to go for it.”
I want to go back to a very small restaurant, something very special It is now close to 30 years since Herman chose to become a chef
“Housed in a former chapel of a military hospital, The Jane delivers

mind-blowing flavours that are both simple and sophisticated.”
where I cook a couple of days a week. I want to do a minimum of and still now he believes he has much to learn. While previously he
covers with a small team. So something with spirit and 100 per cent would travel and almost exclusively dine in the finest restaurants, now
Sergio. “I have something in mind and I want to do something close he enjoys nothing more than sampling street food and discovering
to nature and nearby where I live. You need to have a dream and locations rich with character. A recent trip to Mexico saw him fall
you need something new, always. Yes, I think I will go for it.” in love with food from street vendors and while in Dubai he has
Clearly Herman is extremely head strong, but the closure of Oud vowed to discover ‘real Arabic food’. “For sure I have changed a lot
Sluis still had a major effect on him. The restaurant had been almost because if you are older you cook less for show and focus more on
all he knew, having grown up in the kitchen while his dad worked as the product and the taste,” he declares. “My focus was always on
head chef and his mother looked after the front of house. So many fine dining but I am a little bit over that now. “Of course when I travel
of his memories are tied into his former restaurant and even today I know a lot of chefs and I will always visit them, but only maybe one
he is driven by the words of his father. “He always told me to work time. The rest I go more for street food and find restaurants with a

“I always say that I am extremely
lucky that I didn’t have the
signature of another chef. I always
cook my own style”
nice vibe. “I do think classic food will always be a winner but you
have to refresh it a little bit and give it a special touch. It’s now less
important to show off and instead focus on producing something
that is pure and very special.”
Fortunately, throughout his career Herman has been able to
produce dishes that are unique and original. Despite training in
restaurants across the Netherlands and working so closely with his
father, he has been able carve out his own niche. It is something and are determined to achieve them. “I enjoyed the documentary as
that Herman is extremely proud of, but at the same time he worries it was very natural, they just followed me and everything was real,”
that those entering the culinary business will struggle to fully he says. “But I do think it is good for young chefs to see as it shows
understand the importance of being unique. “I always say that I that if you believe in something and truly focus yourself, then you will
am extremely lucky that I didn’t have the signature of another chef. be paid back in full.” Herman also has another life lesson for those
I was always cooking my own style,” says Herman. “In those days just starting out in the kitchen, and that is to find the right balance
you didn’t have television programmes with food or social media. between work and family. While at Oud Sluis he rarely disconnected
You had books and you went to restaurants, that was it. “I had to from the restaurant, with any spare time spent dreaming up new
search things out and learn from my experiences. And I was lucky dishes and doing all he could to achieve three Michelin stars.
that my parents would take me to the top restaurants in France and He never truly felt relaxed in his own house and could not dedicate
Belgium so food was always in my DNA. enough time to his four children. A fact that has only hit home in
“But the most important thing for a chef is to do their own thing. recent years. “It is necessary to realise that you have another life
They must put their telephones away and not focus so much on outside of the kitchen. And I am enjoying that much more now but
Instagram You see all these young chefs, a lot of them are making it took me a couple of years to realise that home is a place that
things just for pictures. But taste is the most important thing.” can be enjoyed,” he admits. “Sitting there now it is a little unreal as
Passing on his knowledge to the next generation of chefs is vitally previously I would always have had an anxious feeling as I would
important to Herman and it was one of the reasons he agreed to let be thinking about the restaurant or a certain dish. Now I am more
a film crew follow him for close to two years following his decision relaxed and I enjoy cooking for the kids on the weekends. “I think
to close Oud Sluis. The documentary was promoted as a ‘revealing my youngest is even showing an interest in cooking, he has the
story about perfection, ambition and sacrifices’, but Herman also character of a chef already. He is only six but he is eating everything
believes it can serve as inspiration for young chefs who have a goal and loves his food. It is very special.”

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: The Jane restaurant in Antwerp; Sergio

Herman; Jane Dessert; Sergio Herman; Eggplant feta spread;
At.mosphere dining room
It is clear from the way that Herman speaks that moving on from
his beloved Oud Sluis was the correct decision. He talks with great
pride about his family and clearly enjoys being able to watch his
oldest son play football. Now he can even join in the conversation
with the fellow proud parents as his mind is no longer constantly
occupied by thoughts of his restaurant. Yet it seems the story of
Sergio Herman is not yet complete and as he sits more than 500
metres above downtown Dubai it is clear he is anxious to start
another new chapter.
The Jane may be bringing yet more recognition and providing
the Dutch master chef with the chance to spend more time with his
family, but there is a part of Herman that craves a new challenge.
And it seems a new project could soon be selected. “I have the
feeling that there is an opportunity to start something special in
another city,” he adds. “I am looking for a venue that reflects my
character. I am not a bling bling guy and I prefer more pureness
and a more raw style of architecture. “The building has to give me
the right feeling and I have to be able to find the right staff. But as
always, I will follow my gut. I know no other way.”

Sky-high
DINING
Adrian Back visits At.mosphere Dubai
t is now more than six years since At.mosphere was opened on dressed up for the occasion. Once seated the staff are friendly
I the 122nd floor of the Burj Khalifa to a great deal of fanfare. Billing
itself as the highest restaurant in the world and guaranteeing
breath-taking views of virtually the entire city, it certainly had a
and knowledgeable, helping guide you through the menu and very
quickly bring out a signature cocktail and small but flavourful amuse
bouche to start your experience.
unique selling point. Yet I struggled to find a friend, colleague or even The menu itself has a wide variety of dishes but does cater
acquaintance who had dined 442 metres above downtown Dubai. for those with deep pockets, especially when it comes to those
Perhaps the restaurant’s promise of delivering far more than just an who prefer seafood and steaks. The 11+ Japanese wagyu sirloin
exceptional view had not been met. Or perhaps the controversial is inordinately priced at $250, while the cold and warm seafood
minimum charge when first opened had proved off putting. Still, I platters will set you back $260 should you choose to accompany it
made my way to the restaurant without any preconceptions and with grilled blue lobster tail. Even without the lobster be prepared to
was looking forward to sampling high-quality food that would match pay $210 for crab legs, scallops, oysters and salmon when opting
the jaw-dropping views. for the cold seafood tower. However, there is an a la carte menu
Certainly there is little doubt that anyone arriving will not be and it is here that you will find dishes that do provide more value
impressed after zooming up the high-speed lift and being greeted for your money.
by floor-to-ceiling windows that provide a unique view of the I decided to ask for the opinion of my waiter who was more than
ever-evolving city. The restaurant itself is on the small side and happy to recommend several dishes and eventually settled upon
is somewhat monotone, with mahogany and plush red hues the blue lobster. Beautifully presented, the smoked beetroot and
dominating the space. There are also a limited number of tables by carrot still retained a crunch, as did the small caraway crackers.
the window, with these tending to accommodate smaller groups. A light horseradish quenelle added some much-needed spice to
Unlike the lounge which featured a live violinist, the music in the the salad, but the portion of lobster was somewhat of a let-down.
restaurant is very much ambient and there is no doubt that this Expecting that wonderful meaty texture and subtle shellfish flavour,
is a fine-dining restaurant with the vast majority of patrons having instead I was greeted by a stringy and tough first bite that clearly

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Clockwise: At.mosphere dining; Chocolate dessert; Edible flowers;

Burj Khalifa; At.mosphere interior; Salmon
“The pumpkin mousse

was wonderfully light with
a subtle taste”
showed the tail had been overcooked. This was disappointing
given the small size of the dish and the $75 price tag. Fortunately
the main course more than made up for the anti-climactic starter
and having been warned about the lengthy cooking time, it was
certainly worth the wait.
The star of the dish was very much the substantial portion of dry
aged beef loin. Both succulent and tender, the full density of flavour
was enhanced thanks to the well-matched soubise and Barolo
sauce. Everything the starter lacked, the main had in abundance.
The meat was perfectly cooked, with a hint of red in the middle,
and the portion was on the larger side. The crispy potato stack was
well seasoned, while the tongue and tail housed in a watercress
crust did not overpower the beef which was rightfully the main
focus of the dish.
So far my experienced was mixed and I hoped that by ordering
the pumpkin dessert I would be able to finish on a high. Once it

GOURMET TRAVELLER
AT.MOSPHERE
This page: entrance at Burj Khalifa; Restaurant interior
“Given the unique location it is

perhaps no surprise that At.mosphere
is a favourite among UAE visitors.”
arrived the presentation was stunning and I couldn’t wait to see if
the various elements of the dish would work together. The pumpkin
mousse was wonderfully light and had a subtle taste that was lifted
thanks to the cassis base. This intense blackcurrant character was
enhanced thanks to several purée dots of cassis also situated
around the plate. Similarly the brown butter ice cream brought a
delicate taste that matched well with the pumpkin and the hint of
cinnamon that ran through the small crumble that sat alongside
the mousse.
Lunch was then completed in the form of the complimentary
Words by Adrian Back. Photos by: At.mosphere
dessert that came served in a wooden box. Once opened it reveals

cold smoke that is hiding two small chocolates with a flavour-filled
sorbet interior that left a smile on my face.
It was certainly enough to make me forget about the
disappointment of the starter, but did make me wonder if the
entire experience lived up to the rather full price tag. At.mosphere
definitely has dishes full of finesse and flavour, and the amazing
views are a sight to behold.
But given the premium pricing, that puts alongside some of the
very best restaurants in the UAE, At.mosphere still needs a little
more consistency.
However, those seeking a unique experience and with deep
pockets will be attracted to the location and it is perhaps no surprise
that it is a favourite among UAE visitors.
atmosphereburjkhalifa.com

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, left to right: Patatas Bravas; Joan Gomez; Vinoteca table;
Vinoteca oil and vinegar table; Petit fours; Paella.
LA VINOTECA I
f you are looking for that somewhere special to enjoy a romantic
meal, a sophisticated business lunch, or a family brunch with that
added touch of European flair, then the chic classic style of La
Vinoteca Barcelona is for you; not only a designer ambiance but
BARCELONA
gourmet cuisine too.
The casual yet elegant charm of La Vinoteca Barcelona offers
a rare Spanish gastronomic treat; distinctive tapas and plates of
classic and modern Spanish favourites provide an unforgettable
BAHRAIN
experience. The stylish and relaxed restaurant celebrates the
passionate culture and gastronomy of Spain, delivering a selection
of Mediterranean tapas and signature dishes prepared from quality
produce by Spanish chefs.
Led by the unbridled culinary talents of chef Joan Gomez and his
Inspiring cuisine and chic gifted kitchen brigade, La Vinoteca Barcelona stands out as one of
Bahrain’s fine dining destinations, located in the heart of Bahrain’s
Mediterranean style; La Vinoteca Block 338. The new menu features both traditional and modern
Barcelona offers an authentic inspired interpretations of Spanish plates such as tantalising tapas
and pintxos, patatas bravas, croquetas and mojama; and signature
Spanish dining experience dishes such as a classic paella, evoking the distinct flavours of Iberia.

La Vinoteca powerhouse Joan, started cooking at the tender age create the perfect canvas for chef Joan’s culinary art to play out.
of 14 at his family’s hotel in Barcelona. He has worked alongside To complement the inspired cuisine and to elevate your dining
Michelin-starred chefs such as legendary three-starred Ferran Adria experience, sample a glass of something special from the large
of Il Bulli, Carlos Gaig and Joan Roca, in some of the world’s finest selection of fine grape from Bodega Torres. There is no doubting
kitchens, developing a distinct style and infectious enthusiasm the tempting array of dishes makes for quite a challenge, as you
which he has brought to Bahrain. wrestle over just what to select.
Dining in La Vinoteca Barcelona is a special experience; the Every meal is a special occasion, savour patatas bravas stuffed
“The casual yet elegant charm of La Vinoteca Barcelona offers a rare

Spanish gastronomic treat”
sleek new décor, of natural hues and textures, provides a warm with a spicy chili sauce and olive oil mayo, accompanied by Pa
welcome, with large windows providing natural light by day and amb tomàquet, a crisp toasted olive bread spread with ripe tomato,
discreet lighting by night, which brings out the earthy tones of extra virgin olive oil and sea salt, followed by a melange of calamari
the rich autumn colours to provide a sociable atmosphere and a stuffed with minced beef and prawns, cooked in a seafood and
stylish space. The friendly and attentive staff show just the right Romesco sauce; and Croquetas de morcilla, Spanish black pudding
level of service without being obtrusive, which conveys a sense of croquetas topped with fire roasted red peppers and parsley, which
comfort that instantly makes you feel at home, coming together to provide the perfect balance of fresh flavours to awaken your taste-

buds for the main event. of flavours delicately unfold. Another Spanish culinary treasure is
Try a traditional Spanish paella. If you haven’t savoured the Salt Baked Fish, a whole fish baked in a salt crust and served with
delights and complex flavours of a genuine paella before then butter sauce, fresh steamed vegetables and a crispy fennel salad.
you are in for a gastronomic experience. Paella is perhaps a fitting This is probably one of the best ways to cook white fish, and is
dish to bring back to the Middle East with its origins steeped in perfect for hammour. The flesh stays moist drawing just a little of
the Moorish heritage of Valencia in Spain, where casseroles of that sea salt, making for the perfect fresh flavour.
rice, fish and spices have been served on special occasions for The desserts remain true to Spanish cuisine with Chocolate
centuries. Savour a traditional paella made with fresh fish, calamari, Buñuelos, a sort of Spanish light fluffy chocolate filled doughnut,
mussels, prawns and lobster; a combination of textures and tastes, dusted with sugar and served with cinnamon ice-cream, a simple
combined with rich aromas that will entertain your palate as layers yet tasty treat. For the true dessert-lover La Vinoteca Barcelona

GOURMET TRAVELLER
LA VINOTECA BARCELONA
This spread, left to right: La Vinoteca Barcelona bar; Vinoteca
Croquetas; Cardamon ice cream; Guitarist; Beef moullete; Joan
Gomez; Interior.
Words: Nick Baines. Images: La Vinoteca Barcelona; Food and Travel

“For a true Iberian experience
enjoy the complex flavours of
traditional Spanish paella”
offers its own indulgent Mango Soufflé, served with Pistachio
Sablés, which provide a perfect harmony for the delicate tropical
overtones of the soufflé; and an absolutely delicious cardamom ice-
cream. And to complete your meal why not enjoy coffee and petit
fours al fresco in the elegant secluded garden
The restaurant has distinct personas depending upon what
time of day you visit, eat inside or dine alfresco; delivering twice
the experience, but the same delectable food, a real treat for
gourmands and casual diners alike. La Vinoteca Barcelona is a
must have experience on any visit to Bahrain.
vinotecabcn.com

This spread, left to right:
Exterior; Executive suite;
Sandra Tikal.
Management by Design
Sandra Tikal, GM Palazzo Versace Dubai
Francesca Jackson discovered what it takes to hold the tiller of Dubai’s most
iconic luxury destination from Chief Operating Officer of ENSHAA Hospitality
Division & General Manager Palazzo Versace Dubai, Sandra Tikal
legant, charming and deeply passionate about her work, their youngest Deli Manageress. It was a fabulous education and an
E Sandra Tikal brings a wealth of experience and drive to

Palazzo Versace. Sandra knows the luxury brand well, having
been GM of both Palazzo Versace Gold Coast Australia and now
excellent introduction in how to behave in service.
Please share some leadership tips you feel are essential to

Palazzo Versace Dubai. your job.
I feel that working with a team and being able to help them grow,
Running a restaurant is hard work at the best of times, and to mentor them is not only important but also rewarding. I have
running a hotel more so; did you always want to be work in benefited so much from being on the receiving end. I prefer an
the hospitality industry? And how did you fall upon a career informal approach, a people culture, which I brought with me from
in hospitality? Australia; which I think is even more important here in Dubai with the
I fell into the hospitality industry – I didn’t really know what I wanted rich social diversity and so many different nationalities and cultures.
to do, I was 21 when I came into hotels. I had previously worked in
restaurants as second jobs and that’s where my love for hospitality What led you to join / re-join Palazzo Versace / ENSHAA?
came from; I enjoyed being surrounded by people. I enjoy the I actually joined ENSHAA in Dubai on the proviso I was not going to be
diversity of hotels, it’s a multi-skilled operation, you have to know the General Manager of Palazzo Versace Dubai, but I really wanted
about everything from engineering to housekeeping and food & to see the project finished; I was responsible for development,
beverage to sales & marketing. It’s an amazingly interesting business design and branding on the project – and whilst I was doing that I
and I have had the privilege to work in almost every department in was also CEO of the Signature Clubs division for two years. During
hotels. So I became hooked, and in fact I tried to leave the industry that time I opened the Capital Club East Africa in Nairobi; but as the
twice, because it as an all-consuming career, and I am a person opening of Palazzo Versace Dubai neared I didn’t have time for both
who is driven by my passion, but I could never stay away! roles, focusing on the hotel until 2010 when I moved on.
However, I was tempted back by the CEO of ENSHAA, Raza
What was your first job, and what did you learn from it? Jafar, just a couple of years later; I have the DNA of the brand from
My first job was actually working for Safeways, a supermarket chain the very beginning (back in 2000) as an operator in Australia, and I
in Australia, working at the checkout, but by the time I left I was think that he felt that the property needed to have the passion and

INTERVIEW
“I feel that at Palazzo Versace we deliver a boutique experience”

understanding that I bring, and inject it into the team. And for me it flowers in the hotel are grown specially for us. The purpose is to feel
has been a terrific journey. as they you are entering someone’s home – a fabulous villa on Lake
Como. Detail is everything, no matter how small.
Palazzo Versace is a unique property in the region, with
only one other property in Australia and although the brand What trends do you see for the hospitality sector in the
is synonymous with style and glamour, how does this coming years?
reflect to product recognition and operational success? As more and more brands are being bought up under one umbrella,
Versace was the first fashion brand to enter the hotel market, I think that people will look for more unique experiences, not just in
with the Gold Coast property in Australia, which although a hotels but on the high street too; people want something different.
little smaller than Palazzo Versace Dubai is very similar. And at I feel that at Palazzo Versace we deliver a boutique experience,
the time Versace were the only brand that had the complete despite being a large property, providing something iconic & unique.
package, including home furnishings, accessories and furniture,
the complete package; making the proposition truly unique; it’s What do you consider to be the essentials of exceptional
not just a brand name in front of the building. One of the signature customer service?
elements of the Versace brand is that everything is designed with The need to create an environment with a sincere team spirit; we
warmth, and inspired from history. don’t have a separation of management, we all work together. I try
to lead by example, and I will prioritise anything that is important for
What are the challenges managing such a unique property? the team, at the expense of my personal time, in order to support the
It is certainly different running Palazzo Versace Dubai, its part fashion team. For example, unless I am entertaining for business, we all eat
brand and part hotel. Fashion brands tend to be seasonal with new in the same staff canteen. I have an open-door policy and believe
collections every few months, whereas a hotel is here to stay. Hotel that it is important to not only listen to our staff, but also act upon their
designs needs to live for two or three years, whereas a fashion range contributions, and include our entire team in everything that we do.
just needs to live until the next collection. So you need to find the happy
medium in between. For example, if we are using photography that There is stiff competition from other luxury properties in
includes people, then the fashion element may be only be available for Dubai and the region. Beyond the Versace brand what
use for a year. It’s important to stay true to the brand, and sometimes makes Palazzo Versace stand out?
at to the detriment of the bottom line – I am not saying that the bottom Whilst we have to create an awareness of the brand and hotel
line is not important but the brand is a key element in the fabric of – people do come here for the brand, but it’s not necessarily to
the property. You have to find the best outcome, whilst staying true everyone’s taste. But I believe in our own product and if we stay true
to the high-quality nature of the brand. The design process for every to our brand and maintain the high-quality of service and standards
item is meticulous and cannot be compromised, even if the items are throughout the property, our success will grow.
unbranded, as they reflect upon the whole quality experience. Even the www.palazzoversace.ae

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Lima Dubai is a casual restaurant that offers modern Peruvian cuisine from award-
winning chef Virgilio Martinez; his Central restaurant in Lima, Peru is rated as the
No.1 restaurant in Latin America, and No.5 on the ’World’s 50 Best Restaurants’
global list; and Lima London has already garnered a Michelin Star.
he menu is global Peruvian cuisine, served in a casual way. Gatling gun; the words blurred into one-another. Information overload
T According to Martinez “Lima is designed to be Peruvian food

with tradition, with some innovation to become part of the city
it is in, but it can be anywhere in the world. - I think it’s because
that left us as un-informed at the end as when we started.
The food soon started to arrive (which, at the beginning was fine, as
we’d had a light breakfast). Although too many dishes were served far
when you go to a Peruvian restaurant, it’s a whole experience – you too quickly, not only overwhelming the table and but our appetites too,
find a whole new world of seeing ingredients, serving food, and giving us a feeling that we were being hurried out the door. Another
sharing ideas.” problem of the rushed service is that many of the dishes have gone
The Martinez ethos is reflected in the warm welcome and friendly cold before you can get around to tasting them; and then, without
service; and the restaurant is an interior designer’s dream. The vibrant warning, and not necessarily before we had finished, the plates were
contemporary space enjoys an abundance of natural light during the cleared and more food arrived. Too much, too quick.
day that sets off the eclectic décor; an ideal venue for a family brunch, Having mentioned some misgivings on the service, for the most
dinner or just after-work drinks. part the food was delightful and the dishes on the brunch menu (save
The ‘Peruvian Expedition Brunch’ is a set 5-course sharing menu; for the eagerness of delivery) were well presented and full of flavour.
setting it aside from the usual melee of Friday buffet brunches.
The menu could be more balanced; an ample selection of starters, STARTERS
but you can only select one dish between two from the mains. There DUCK BAO BUNS Pulled Duck, pickles and spice rocoto sauce.
is a great emphasis on the starters and a limited selection for desserts, The presentation reminded me of having fish and chips in newspaper
which is a great shame if you’ve got a sweet tooth, but a chocolate at Côte Brasserie; beautifully presented in wooden bowl, and tasted
box is available if you ask. If you aren’t a fan of fish then you could be amazing. There were different textures. The spicy sauce was smooth
in trouble, as it features strongly on the menu. and rich, with a great balance of sweet and sour, that was certainly
I probably should mention the service at this point; as highlighted not short on flavour and is definitely a dish that will tantalise your taste-
earlier, the service is friendly enough but when the server ran through buds. The duck was moist and tender and worked well with the salad
the menu descriptions, they were rattled off with the speed of a leaves, and well complemented by the light and fluffy buns.

This spread, clockwise: roe; Lima Dubai Lounge; risotto;
lounge; Virgilio Martinez

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: staircase; dining space; Bao; Virgilio

Martinez; Ceviche
“The ‘Peruvian Expedition Brunch’

is a set 5-course sharing menu”
and the oriental flavours took us on a culinary a trip around Asia.
Simple but delicious!
MAINS
LAMB SECO Slow-cooked lamb, Pumpkin two ways, Kiwicha,
Coriander marinade. The lamb was unctuous and tender; and the
pumpkin cream made the dish, with its layers of rich and sumptuous
flavours. Hats off to the chef!
CHICKEN BREAST PACHAMANCA Sautéed potatoes, Corn
brûlée, Pachamanca sauce. The chicken had a hint of mint which
was unusual yet inviting at the same time, and the sautéed potatoes
were buttery and melted on your tongue. Possibly not to everyone’s
palette but definitely a dish to try, if just to experience the unique blend
CATCH OF THE DAY The fresh meaty morsels of salty seabass of textures and flavours that will leave you thinking.
were flavoursome, and perfectly balanced by the red onions and
Cancha corn, which added a welcome crunch to the dish and gave DESSERTS
it a nice earthy finish. If you are looking for something a bit different CREME BRÛLÉE The indulgent delicate creamy overtones of the
do try this! brûlée was simply delicious!
CEVICHE SALMON Fresh Salmon, Yellow tiger milk, Beetroot and CHOCOLATE BOX Aesthetically pleasing strawberry lollies
Asparagus Tempura. Not the best of dishes, the flesh was opaque, dipped in dark chocolate - They were sensational - the flavours
firm and slightly chewy and overpowered by the tangy, citrusy, yellow were in harmony and resurrected many happy childhood memories!
tiger milk sauce - which was extremely hot; having lost its battle with Thank-you!
the fryer- the over-battered asparagus showed scant resemblance to CHOCOLATE MOUSSE An absolutely perfect dark chocolate
this most noble of vegetables. fondant heaven! Definitely one for all the chocoholics out there!
TRADITIONAL CHICKEN CAUSA Yellow Potato, Chicken Breast,
Peruvian olives. Again the presentation of this dish was exquisitely Although there were a few issues, and a couple of the dishes were
executed; the attention to detail evident. The first thing to hit your perhaps wanting, it was an overall enjoyable experience and I look
taste-buds is a citrusy kick from the sauce. The textures are soft and forward to my next a visit to experience the main menu – and If you
creamy and the aftertaste quite sharp – which seemed to overpower are looking for a chic destination with a memorable atmosphere, then
the chicken. you should certainly pay a visit to Lima Dubai.
PRAWNS ANTICUCHO Marinated with the traditional Inka Panka Lima Dubai is located in The Square, City Walk; The Peruvian
Chilli, corn cake. The mouth-watering aromas were reflected Expedition Brunch set 5-course sharing menu is served every
beautifully in the marinated sauce. You could taste the freshness of Friday from 12 noon till 4pm, with prices starting at $90pp for the
the prawns followed by a delightful smoky barbecue aftertaste. non-alcoholic brunch and $125pp for the alcoholic option. For more
VEGETARIAN CHIFA RICE Chinese style rice, Mushrooms, Spring information contact: reservations@limadubai.com, +971 56 500
Onion, Asparagus and Broccoli. The rice was fluffy light and sticky, 4571 or visit www.limadubai.com

GOURMET TRAVELLER
SEVEN SEAS CONCH FESTIVAL
Seven seas Of Wry

Food and Travel columnist Kevin Pilley visits the Turks and Caicos’ Conch Festival
he ambient music was fusion. Mainly steelpan, ripsaw and the consumed in the US are imported. Conch harvesting is prohibited
T Atlantic Ocean. But there was also a lot of calypso, spouge,

scratch, ska, soca, rocksteady, and maybe some junkanoo
too. But very little chutney.
in Florida and adjacent Federal states. Many Caribbean islands are
forbidden to export conch.
After two days, I was well and truly conched out.
The drink was various, predominantly “Turk’s Head” hops, vintage The Turks proves it is possible to be stalked by a large shell.
grain punch and frozen mojitos. But everyone at the “Three Queens Everywhere serves conch.
Bar” was on the trumpets. “Coco Bistro” offers conch ravioli with sweet pepper and rose
There isn’t much else to do on the Turks and Caicos Islands sauce. “The Bay Bistro” serves conch crepes (Best in Fest 2009).
than put a trumpet to your mouth and swallow it. Whole. Several “The Beach House” serves a conch salad with heirloom tomatoes
times. On Providenciales, the largest of the 40-island archipelago wrapped in rice paper. “The Infiniti” at the Grace Bay Club (Dress
and British Overseas Territory south-east of the Bahamas, everyone code: resort elegant) boasts barely grilled conch with Japanese
conches it up. cucumber, green zebra tomatoes and smoked Habanero dressing.”
There is a popular folk myth that if you hold a conch shell to your The Green Island Café” at Sandy Point Marina on North Caicos
ear you can hear the turquoise sea. serves cracked conch with waffles. “Hemingway’s” offers conch
And a 11-point serrated carpenter’s handsaw. fingers. “Bugaloo’s” in Five Cays, next to the Sunrise Fish Plant”
At the end of November, the Three Queen’s in Blue Hills near Five scorches, sautés and blackens its conch.
Cays hosts the annual “Conch Festival”, a showcase of local culture Says top TCI chef Clive Whent, originally from London :
featuring a conch fritter eating contest, a conch knocking contest, “Conch is a super food, one of the ocean’s greatest gifts, it’s low
and a conch peeling competition. There used to be a conch blowing in cholesterol and high in protein. Conch is unique There’s no end
tournament. The winner of this prestigious event had to produce a to how to serve it. And if you’re really lucky, you might be gifted with
recognizable tune rather than a plumbing anomaly. And not infarct. a conch pearl inside the shell,
On some islands fishermen still announce they have fish for sale Blue Hills Road off the Leeward Highway has conch shacks like
by sounding a conch sell. At the Turks conch festival contestants Mark Clayton’s “Da Conch Shack” – home of the Hump and Bump
in the conch blowing section often announce they are just about to Party”- where you “eat” rather than “dine”. And are liberal with the
suffer a prolapse. local “PeppaJoy” handmade gourmet hot sauce. Menus include
Cookery categories at the festival include Best Conch Salad, conch sautéed in rum and butter sauce. Your waiter will even wade
Best Conch Chowder and Best Speciality Conch, as well as Best out to sea and select a conch for you. You can’t get away from the
in Show. white-meated “Strombus Giga”.
Leeward Settlement boasts the world’s first commercial conch Having eaten conch in its cracked (fried), frittered, sweet ‘n’
farm. Naturally, you can go on a conch mari-culture tour beside sour, smoked and even at the Sibonne Beach Resort in its pecan-
the 65 acres of sub -sea pasture, see the pens and learn about encrusted form, I had developed many attributes of the celebrated
Queen Conch and environmentally-conscious sources of low-cost Caribbean gastropod.
protein. And that conch is now listed as a commercially endangered I didn’t move very far. Or very quickly.
species due to pollution and over-fishing. Ninety per cent of seafood I hit the mojitos and “Shark Bite” cocktails and mellowed out to the

This spread, clockwise: The view at Grace Bay, Bugaloo;
Da Conch Shack; Conch shells, Conch salad
local ripsaw music. And got into the rake and scrape. Bracing the
saw on his thigh, handle side up, a dude in dreadlocks and a snood
scraped a knife along his 11-point edge. A friend called Dezzie
jammed along, using a screwdriver as his plectrum and making a big
play of his teeth. They bent and wobbled together.
Ripsaw music originated in the Middle and North Caicos and
found its way to the Bahamas. The saw is the national instrument of or “belongers” are descendants of African slaves brought over by
the island as the conch is its official marine animal. loyalists from Georgia and South Carolina to grow cotton and sisal.
Along with the spiny lobster and the flamingo, the conch has pride It’s their cultural heritage which is celebrated at the islands’ annual
of place on the islands’ coat of arms. It must be the world’s only conch jamboree.
heraldic mollusc. Terry Morris from Grand Turk won the prestigious conch knocking
Columbus discovered conch on the Turks & Caicos islands in or shucking title, opening thirteen humanely and without significant
1492. He described the shells as “the size of a calf head”. Provo mutilation in the allotted five minutes. A half-hour flight away from
has the world’s only commercial conch farm and you can go on a Provo is seven-mile long by one wide Grand Turk is the administrative
tour and learn all you ever wanted to know but were afraid to ask capital of the British Dependent Territory. Cockburn Town is a
about edible trumpets. charmingly sleepy place where a tailback means two bicyclists
Like all parts are edible. Except the shell. The conch is called stopping to talk to each other down Front Street.
“Titan’s Trumpet”. It is reputed to be the instruments most favoured Pillory Beach is where Columbus made his landfall. As did the late
by mermaids and mermen. astronaut John Glenn. In 1962. The National Museum possesses
Provo, 550 miles from Florida, is becoming increasingly known for the hull and rigging of the Molasses Reef”, the oldest shipwreck in
its realty, its marina townhouses and its “new paradigms of home the New World. The 150-year-old lighthouse was made in Britain
ownership”. And its “private enclaves of luxurious condominium and transported over. The only bright lights you will see will be on a
residences.” Accommodation ranges from plush sprawling five-star, glow worm cruise.
all-inclusive stalags with well-rehearsed super-casual staff and as- Goatskin drums announced the headline act, hipster saw hero
much-as-you-can-heap-on-one-plate buffets to marvellous B&B Wenty Rigby. The “Caicos Slings”, Dirty Bananas” and “Fuzzy
establishments. Buccaneers” kept on coming. Trumpets build up a thirst.
The up-market package hotels boast “exclusive bathroom Soon we were all “wined-up” and dancing the local dance,” The
amenities” (free shampoo), foyer boutiques and market themselves Wine”. There is “The Conch” too.
as “hideaways for romantic exclusionists”. Which involves a lot of swaying and hooking your foot behind your
Provo is developing fast. It saw its first car in 1964. The locals ankle. Which drinking mojitos does too.

A LITTLE OF
WHAT YOU FANCY Anthea Rowan tells us why just a little of
what you fancy, really can do you good
y grandmother lived by the adage ‘a little of what you fancy
M does you good’; a slice of excellent bread (not the whole

loaf); a nip of good brandy (not the bottle); a few squares
of the best chocolate (never the bar).
The phrase was made famous by a risqué music hall performer,
Marie Lloyd, towards the end of Queen Victoria’s reign. She
sang: I always hold in having it if you fancy it. If you fancy it that’s
understood. And suppose it makes you fat? I don’t worry over that
‘Cos a little of what you fancy does you good!’
The little, then, the operative word. Though the ‘fancy’ is pretty key
too; I don’t know about you, but I never fancied a bowl of broccoli?
And a lot of foods that get bad rap especially in these days
of lean ‘clean’ zero carbs eating, are actually imperative to good,
wholesome, happy health.
So this piece is a small celebration of the six apparently deadly
foods that are good for you in moderation, remember, always in
polite (I’ll just have the one ...) moderation though not so polite
you’re reduced to the paper thin slice of cake that Kristin Scott
Thomas’s Alette Naylor, insisted upon ‘un petit peu, un peu plus
petit’ in Confessions of a Shopaholic: you must at least taste the
stuff.
BREAD
Gluten is deemed the social pariah of food now: everybody’s on
a Gluten Free diet. But not all flours are grown, or ground, equal.
Dozens of studies demonstrate that glutencontaining foods whole-
wheat, rye and barley are essential for good health and for the

GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, left to right: Artisan bread; Homemade Nutella; Poached eggs; Butter; Portion of chips; Filet wedge.
98% of people (yup, that many of us don’t need to avoid the stuff) been associated with many diseases, including cardiovascular
that don’t have gluten issues, those same whole grains—which do disease, cancer and osteoporosis. Dairy from grass-fed cows is
contain gluten (did I mention that?) — are linked to a reduced risk of particularly rich in vitamin K2 so in the end, happy cows mean
heart disease, diabetes, obesity, and cancer and here’s why: gluten happy health. Additionally, butter contains short and medium chain
helps boost immune function. After less than a week on added fats which are metabolized differently from other fats. They lead
gluten protein, volunteers of one study showed increased natural to improved satiety (that is, you’ll feel fuller, longer) and ironically
killer cell activity, which could help us fight cancer and viral increased fat burning.
infections. Another study found that high gluten bread improved And replacing butter with margarine compounds the loss of ‘good’
triglyceride levels more effectively than regular bread. And yet fats that come with butter especially the stuff that comes from those
another study see what I mean: dozens of them found that a month contented grass-fed cows: margarine is highly processed and
on a glutenfree diet may reduce (our natural, healthy, important) gut chock full of harmful trans fats; in one study, scientists examined
flora and immune function, potentially setting those on glutenfree the effects of butter and margarine on cardiovascular disease
diets up for an overgrowth of harmful bacteria in their intestines. Margarine significantly increased the risk of cardiovascular disease,
Why? Because the very components wheat sensitive people have while butter had no effect.
problems with, like FODMAP and fructans, may act as probiotics Butter also contains butyrate. Science suggests butyrate prevents
and feed our good bacteria. weight gain on an unhealthy diet by increasing energy expenditure
So, there you are. Have a piece of that delicious, freshly baked and reducing food intake (see: there’s that satiety and fat burning
bread, hot out of the oven, infusing the kitchen with its warm life- thing again) and lends an anti-inflammatory component.
affirming scent. And slather it with butter. Yup. Really: butter, not Grass fed butter, is a great source of a fatty acid called
some sweaty yellow goo in a tub masquerading as the Real Thing. Conjugated Linoleic Acid which has a positive effect on metabolism
and is actually sold ironies abound as a weight loss supplement.
BUTTER So whilst it is not advisable to wait for your toast to cool and then
Butter is the ultimate in unhealthy: the shameful fat face of obesity top it with butter cut to cheese slice thickness (as my father did), it’s
and rampant appetites, blamed for everything from heart disease perfectly OK recommended even to spread it on warm bread so
to high cholesterol. But butter’s reputation is undeserved. Sure, it’s its richness sinks deep in and is evident in your first bite.
high in fat but that’s not altogether a bad thing. Fat means fat soluble
vitamins which means A, E and K2. K2 is a fairly hard vitamin to find, EGGS
butter is a primary and valuable source of K2 which has health Egg white omelettes. Ever eaten one? Ever heard of anything so
benefits. It is involved in calcium metabolism and a low intake has insipidly patently pointless?

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Persecuted by the persistent myth that dietary cholesterol should is soft and kind. And potatoes, for their unassuming modesty are
be avoided, egg yolks have had bad press since the seventies. a powerful food, low on phytic acid they are easily digested but
For years we’ve been warned to discard the yolks. However, the simultaneously jam-packed with vitamins and minerals, you’d be
reality is that by discarding the yolk, you’re denying yourself the hard pressed to find so economically packaged a food at the same
most nutrient dense part of this incredible food. There is little to no price.
evidence that links egg yolks with heart disease, if anything, they One of the nutritional benefits of eating potatoes is their vitamin
protect against it. A single egg packs 6g of protein for the cost of B6, content. B6 helps your body produce neurotransmitters which
just 80 calories and provides 13 essential nutrients, all in the yolk; a afford communication between nerve cells, as well as between
whole egg is a rich source of protein, providing a complete range of nerves and muscles. Eating a large potato provides your body with
amino acids, omega3 fatty acids, B vitamins, vitamin D, vitamin A, 98% of your body’s recommended daily intake of this important
selenium, and magnesium. vitamin. They’re also rich in Vitamin C, the same potato will give you
Eggs, far from being the demons of the breakfast table, are a quarter of your daily requirement of Vitamin C which helps protect
actually a mean, lean protein packed machine, delivered in an you from cancer and strokes.
incredibly clever totally bio degradable capsule designed by Mother As to the other nutrients, potatoes contain manganese which
Nature herself. That, surely, has got to prove they’re a good thing. supports metabolism and bone health and potassium which is
imperative for muscle function and a healthy nervous system.
CHIPS Recent studies suggest that potatoes may be an especially
Ok. Not Chips exactly, but Potatoes. important food given our highly stressed contemporary lives.
Another innocent staple banished needlessly from the supper Scientists at the UKs Institute for Food Research have identified
table by those No and Low Carb zealots. But potatoes are a blood pressure lowering compounds, kukoamines, in potatoes.
wonderful food: humble, generous. The ultimate in warm, floury Avoid the deep fat fryer, instead mash them with low fat Greek
comfort eating. It’s the way we cook them that’s key: chuck them yogurt, top a baked spud with broccoli (we can’t avoid it altogether)
into a deep fryer with week old fat and you’re not doing to do them and sea salt or dress a potato salad with roasted garlic and olive oil.
or yourself much good but bake them with their skins on, split them
open and add a knob of butter, see above, and you are transported A (QUALITY) FATTY CUT OF MEAT
to some safe, soulrestoring place where everything in the world The myth remains that all fatty meat is bad and we ought only eat

This spread, left to right: Beef Nehari; Lobster Benedict; Steak; Chocolate bar assortment; Truffles; Maya Fondue.
lean meat that means no crispy bacon, no gloriously marbled beef, good reasons to eat it in mindful moderation chocolate contains
no browned, salted pork crackling. But in truth both are important flavonoids, substances known to have anti-inflammatory effects
in our diet. For years, we have been warned to focus on muscle and antioxidant properties that help mop up disease prompting
meats chicken breasts and lean cuts of beef but avoiding the odd agents in the body. It’s also full of the amino acid tryptophan, which
cuts of meat (moderation, remember) is completely unnecessary. is an essential ingredient in the production of the happy hormone,
Chicken legs, thighs, wings and even skin are whole foods that the neurotransmitter serotonin. As well as tryptophan, chocolate
can be incorporated into a healthy diet, as well as rich cuts of beef contains phenyl ethylamine which the body converts to dopamine,
brisket, shanks, ribs, lamb shoulder, even bacon. Think about it, which helps us experience pleasure.
traditional cultures (pre-the contemporary low carb, gluten free, fat Dark chocolate is especially good for us so good in fact that four
free, clean eating, green juicing brigade) did not have the option squares a day are virtually prescribed. Researchers in Switzerland
read time or luxury to pick and choose what cuts of meat they and one must assume they know their stuff report that eating dark
wanted to eat, they used the whole animal. The benefit of these chocolate every day for two weeks reduces stress hormones,
richer sources of meat is that they contain higher amounts of fat- including cortisol, even in super anxious people. There is an
soluble vitamins A, D, E and K2, as well as glycine (from skin, abundance of global research that proclaims chocolate is a sound
bones, cartilage) which is an important amino acid that plays a role dietary choice (not one of our five or is it seven a day admittedly,
in nearly every part of the body. but almost): the Swedes established that eating 45g a week
We don’t get all these goodies from smugger, leaner cuts of reduced stroke risk, the boffins at Cambridge seem to agree; a
meat. But when it comes to fatty cuts of meat, do consider the team of Italian scientists found that eating small amounts increases
quality of the cut: conventional sources might not contain a well- insulin sensitivity which reduces the diabetes risk; German scientists
balanced omega 3 to 6 ratio, so do like Butter and opt for happy believe that the flavanols in dark chocolate could protect women’s
grassfed animals. skin from the sun’s UV rays and British psychologists found that
And whilst you do that, whilst you’re in your local butcher’s those same flavanols can render a person more numerical but as
considering a rolled sirloin for your Sunday Roast, admiring the one who has never been able to add up despite a lifetime of nightly
dense flesh, ribboned with white fat, whilst trying not to salivate chocolate, I’m not sure I agree with this one.
guiltily, remember that we’ve been trying to reduce animal fats in The last word must go to French woman Jeanne Louise Calment
our diets for thirty years but we’re not healthier, we’re just heavier. who was born in 1875 long before people conceived of green,
clean, lectin/lactose/gluten/fat/funfree food who apparently ate a
AND, SAVING THE BEST TILL LAST ... kilo of dark chocolate every week and lived to be 122. I bet she
CHOCOLATE. ate baguettes in abundance, enjoyed butter, steak, cream and
Chocolate is rich in fat and sugar so that’s not it must be said cheese in happy-go-lucky pre-animal fat anxiety days and slugged
altogether a good thing but, and it’s a big BUT, there are loads of Bordeaux regularly too.

GOING UNDERGROUND
This month we visit Turkey and Food
and Travel’s Joe Worthington takes us
on a tour of the underground cities of
Cappadocia
he Central Anatolian region of Cappadocia is world-
T renowned for its extensive tunnel and cave systems that

date back centuries, but while many tourists often only head
to the region to stay in one of several unique cave hotels or to take
a hot air balloon ride over the caves, there are whole underground
cities in Cappadocia just waiting to be discovered.
Throughout Cappadocia, in the town of Göreme and right across
Monks Valley, there are hundreds of distinctive “fairy chimneys”
that were once home to Bronze Age troglodyte cave settlers and
early Christian refugees escaping from persecution under the
Ancient Romans. The many settlers that have called Cappadocia’s
caves home over centuries have left their marks, with underground
churches, bedrooms carved into cliffs, and abandoned shops
lining pathways between the cave settlements. The underground many as 20,000 residents called the town of Derinkuyu home,
cities of Cappadocia are a spectacular sight and unlike anywhere a settlement built completely underground for locals to hide
else in the region. away from potential foreign invaders. And in the 21st century,
The whole region of Cappadocia is covered in a lunar-like white these underground tunnel systems have found a new life, with
powdery sand, the towering pointed mountains are littered with entrepreneurial locals using them to grow fruit and vegetables
holes big enough for a fully-grown person, and at sunset eerie in the nutrient-rich soils and away from the hot midday sun.
shadows are cast all around, following you like a ghost trying to Cappadocia’s underground cities are once again proving their
drag you deeper into the caves. It’s easy to mistake the cave and worth to the region of Central Anatolia.
tunnel system of Cappadocia as the set from a Star Wars movie,
especially at night when candle lights flicker inside the caves and KAYMAKLI UNDERGROUND CITY
locals venture out in cloaks to keep warm. The settlement of Kaymakli dates back to the Hittite period, around
Underneath these natural towers and caves there is a 1600 BC, and was developed over the following centuries both
subterranean world quite unlike anywhere else in the world. As as a retreat from marauding tribes looking to capture Anatolia, but

WORLD TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: Rocky homes in the Cliff face of Nevsehir;

Yunak Evleri Cappadocia Hotel; Cappadocia scenery; Derinkuyu
underground city; Hotel cave room interior; Cappadocia suites.
subterranean tunnels were used extensively throughout the Bronze

Age, there is extensive use of rocks and metal smelting to create
copper pans for use in cooking over large open fires. A block of
andesite rock with several holes can be seen in Kaymakli, into
which residents would have poured molten copper to create pots,
pans, cutlery, and plates.
On the fourth floor there is a number of inter-connected rooms
that would have been used as bedrooms and communal living
areas for the thousands of settlers who once called Kaymakli home.
Although only 4 of the 8 floors have been excavated and opened
also as somewhere for locals to live away from the unbearable to the public, the Bronze Age settlers of Kaymakli pioneered the
summer temperatures. Kaymakli’s underground town in the most system of tower block living that we know today.
expansive in the region, spanning over 8 floors, with uniquely
designed ventilation shafts, and even places of worship. Kaymakli DERINKUYU UNDERGROUND CITY
really was a complete underground settlement. Derinkuyu is the deepest underground tunnel and cave system in
The first floor of Kaymakli’s underground caves was used for Cappadocia, and potentially the whole world. There are some 600
stables, where locals who lived in the tunnels would keep their doorways hidden away in the gardens of houses leading deep
livestock. Each floor was connected to the next by steps carved underground to a depth of 85 metres in some places. Just like
from the rock, and intricate archways were carved between in Kaymakli, there were rooms dedicated to animal husbandry,
rooms. Remains of uniquely shaped wooden doors can still be cooking, wine production, sleeping, education and worship.
seen today. Derinkuyu is located around 30 minutes outside of Göreme,
On the third floor, perhaps the most important communal area the most famous “fairy chimney” town in Turkey. Quite unique
in the underground city, were the wineries and kitchens. As the for Derinkuyu, the ground floor of the underground city houses

WORLD TRAVELLER
UNDERGROUND CITIES
excavation machinery, were able to dig these caves and tunnels and
make them last for future generations to discover. Cavernous rooms,
some as tall as two fully-grown adults, would most certainly have been
difficult to create, and this is what makes Derinkuyu underground city
one of the world’s most spectacular sights.
5,=Ǹ,/09<5+,9.96<5+*/<9*/
In the town of NevĒehir, archaeologists have discovered one of
the world’s largest and best preserved underground churches.
The archaeologists working on the regeneration of NevĒehir Castle
were not expecting to discover a 360,000-square metre church
deep underneath, and most importantly, did not expect to find
preserved frescoes and wall paintings that shed some light on
Orthodox Christianity in the Anatolia region in the 5th century AD.
The cavernous ceiling and intricately carved walls of the church
have been painted with frescoes of the crucifixion of Jesus, the
Ascension to Heaven, and showing the faces of saints that have
long been forgotten. These paintings are some of the oldest
Christian paintings in the world, perhaps some of the oldest
a cruciform plan church and a missionary school with individual displaying the key parts of Christian faith.
rooms set aside for lessons. Nearby there were also rooms for NevĒehir’s underground church shows that the settlers of
holding the dead and discarded food and broken pottery until they Cappadocia’s subterranean cities had everything that they needed
could be taken to the surface when conditions were safer. to lead their lives deep underneath the modern-day cities that we
There is also a huge bathhouse complete with towering ceilings know today.
to allow steam to rise, and a system of shafts and false doors
that could be moved whenever necessary to trick invaders skilled *(77(+6*0(»: <5+,9.96<5+ *0;0,:
enough to find their way into Turkey’s subterranean world. It is ;6+(@
impossible to know whether these ancient tricks worked, but they Unlike most places in the world, Turkey has not abandoned
are impressive nonetheless. its Bronze Age settlements completely, with the extensive
Derinkuyu would have been a vast and impressive city above underground tunnel systems coming to life with the entrepreneurial
ground, but underground it is more so. When you take the steep endeavours of locals living in the region.
steps down to the first floor of the hidden city, the first thing that comes The tunnel systems rarely get above 13 degrees Celsius, so they
to mind is questions about how ancient Anatolians, without modern are great for keeping fruit and vegetables fresh. In underground

;OPZZWYLHKSLM[[VYPNO[!*HWWHKVJPH^PU[LYIHSSVVU[V\Y"5L]ȴLOPY
underground church; Yunak Evleri Cappadocia hotel exterior; Yunak
Evleri Cappadocia hotel pool.
experience, with 7 full caves houses and 40 rooms carved into the
side of the mountains in the village of Urgup. Some of the carved
rooms date back to the 5th century AD, and the main building was
a 19th century Greek mansion.
Flickering lights illuminate roughly carved walkways between the
low carved bedroom doors, and natural shapes in the mountains
allow strips of light to flow through at sunrise and sunset, creating
heavenly glows right across the hotel compound. There is even a
heated outdoor swimming pool carved between the rocks.
The bedrooms are all uniquely decorated, some standard
rooms, some larger family rooms, and others full cave houses
available to rent. Naturally coloured walls, complete with striped
patterns that have emerged over centuries. There are marble floors
in each room, marble bathroom fittings, handcrafted lace curtains,
tunnels near Ortahisar, more than 6 metres of crates filled with antique cupboards and tables, traditional bed coverings, antique
fresh lemons line the floor, being transported from Turkey’s lights, and impressive kilim carpets. There is nowhere quite like
Mediterranean coast and stored for up to 4 weeks until they are Yunak Evleri hotel, and there is nowhere else in the region where
transported to markets in Europe, Russia, and further afield. you can live like locals once lived millennia ago.
Cappadocia’s modern uses of the underground passageways Cappadocia is a special place to experience at any time of the
do not stop at lemon storage – thousands of tonnes of apples, year. Underground tunnels offer a glimpse into a subterranean
oranges, pears, potatoes, cabbages and cauliflowers are also life that has largely disappeared. Miles of tunnels link cities tens
hidden right underground the feet of the thousands of locals and of metres under the feet of modern Anatolia, connecting rooms
visitors venturing to the region every year. that were once filled to the top with wine and food, families eating
together around open fires, and people getting on with their lives
YUNAK EVLERI CAPPADOCIA as wars were fought above ground.
Tourists visiting Cappadocia who want to experience what it is like The underground cities of Cappadocia may only be a tourist
living in the caves and tunnels of the region should really stay in attraction and place for storing food today, but the region has
the Yunak Evleri Cappadocia hotel. The hotel truly is a magical many hidden and impressive secrets just waiting to be discovered.

HOTEL TALK
Anna-Marie Dowling
Dowling brings over 25 years of

experience and first-hand knowledge
to The Westin and Le Méridien Bahrain
City Centre Hotels.
ahrain’s only female General Manager of a five-star hotel and
B winner of a much-coveted Marriott Global Leadership Award,

brings over 25 years of experience and first-hand knowledge
to The Westin and Le Méridien Bahrain City Centre Hotels. “I came
into the international market a little later in my career.” said Dowling.
“I already had over 16 years as a General Manager at 5 star hotels
in the UK, and I thought that it was about time that I faced a new
challenge. I am delighted to have landed in Bahrain; it’s a great first
post for the Middle East – Bahrain is inclusive and friendly – people
reach out to you. I am loving my time here.” she concluded.
Dowling was always destined for the hospitality industry. “I was not
particularly academic and not taken with my studies. I was working
part-time as a waitress whilst I was studying for my A Levels, and
I discovered that I loved the work, and decided go to Catering
College and take a B-Tech in Diploma in Catering.” she recalled. “I
suppose I fell into the industry through my part time job; I but I saw
a clear route forward and I enjoyed the challenged, in fact I still do!”
added Dowling.
Clearly not someone who shies away from hard work, Dowling
started in housekeeping, working as a chamber maid for Holiday Inn
at Slough (near to Heathrow Airport in the UK) “I cleaned 15 rooms
a day for 9 months.” she notes. “And from there I joined the Holiday
Inn Management Training program.” Something that occupied
Dowling’s next 2½ years, working in every department from the
Front Desk and Concierge to Finance and Food and Beverage. “I
gained invaluable experience at the coal-face of the industry; an
experience to draw upon even today – so I have an empathy for
housekeeping and all the departments. I look back on this as a very

INTERVIEW
This spread, clockwise: Aerial view
of the pool at Le Meridien, Bahrain;
The Hub at Le Meridien, Bahrain
City Centre; The lobby at the Westin,
Bahrain City Centre; Anne-Marie
Dowling
happy time.” she observed. walks around the mall.” offered Dowling.
Over the coming years Dowling worked tirelessly learning her trade, “The market in Bahrain is tough – the hotel business in London
with time at Holiday Inn, Scandic, and Metropole Hotels, leading to is more transactional, whereas here it very much about relationship
her first role as GM at the iconic five-star London Marriott County management, making the personal touch even more important”
Hall. “At that time, there was nothing else in the area – the London she stated. “There are some differences compared to the UK; the
Eye was just opening – but I had a marvellous few years watching market-cycles are shorter here, tending to change every 12-18
the metamorphosis of the area.” said Dowling. Her success was month, as consumers seek new concepts. There is a strong appetite
noticed and Dowling became GM at another two iconic London for eating out – and new openings are definitely well patronised, at
properties, the Meriden Piccadilly and Café Royale. After 5 years the weekend at least.”
with Meridien, Dowling decided for a change of pace and went to Whilst technology is starting to play a larger part in the industry
Jersey, in the Channel Islands to join a small private 5-star hotel – and smart phones becoming more prevalent in our daily live, guests
The Grand, on the Esplanade in St Helier. “I spent two wonderful can become less reliant on talking to people. “We try and track
years there, but the owners decided to sell the property and I felt it people’s preferences – and deliver some little wow factors. Little
was probably time for a change.” commented Dowling. things like folding a towel into the shape of a shirt and laying their
After a 2-year stint as GM of Royal Horseguards Hotels in London tie on it. A nice touch that adds that little extra care for our guests.”
Dowling took a 10-month career break to re-charge her batteries observes Dowling.
“Genuine customer service comes from the heart of our

Words: Francesca Jackson Images: Marriott; Food & Travel
associates wanting to do a good job”

before taking up the intense challenge of running an airport hotel – However, a successful hotel is driven by its team, and great
as GM at Sofitel Heathrow. “Running a hotel is full-on, more so for customer care. “Genuine customer service comes from the heart of
one directly connected to an airport terminal. Its non-stop 24 hours our associates wanting to do a good job.” Dowling begins. “When
a day.” she observed. “I knew after my 3rd year, I wanted something things go wrong – which can happen – you need to fix them quickly.
different and decided to move to an International position – I initially People are quite forgiving if you take the initiative. We achieve this by
considered Asia but the Middle East had a greater appeal, as it is good training and encouraging our associates to take responsibility
easily accessible by air and just a few hours’ time difference from and act appropriately to provide the guest with a solution. This
the UK.” has never been more important since the advent of Social Media,
There are different challenges in the Middle East “Here you are bloggers and sites such as Trip Advisor.” she concluded.
responsible for the total welfare of all your staff, from where they live, “The Middle East market is a little more demanding than some,
what they eat, and how they get work – in addition to the time when but the expectations of the clients remain the same – they expect
they are at work. Quite different from London. However, the Marriott value for what they are paying.” noted Dowling.
Total Welfare program for our staff ensures that we look after every There is no doubt that Le Meriden and Westin guests
aspect of their well-being. We run programs such as Breast Cancer are in good hands. www.lemeridienbahraincitycentre.com
awareness, Step-up Challenge, getting people to exercise –with www.westinbahraincitycentre.com

The Rock
Gibraltar has seen civilisations come
towering rock of Gibraltar, and on the road that crosses the airport
runway, the ghosts of history roam.
Colourful and exciting ceremonies take place like they have for
centuries, Moorish bathhouses stand in the spots where they were
built more than 600 years ago, and caves line the shoreline that
once sheltered weary Phoenician and Carthaginian sailors worried
that if they travelled any further they would fall off the edge of the
and go for tens of thousands of years, earth. Although small, Gibraltar has played an important role in the
history of Europe and the Arab world.
leaving behind unique architecture, Also look out for the typically British red telephone boxes and
post boxes, and read the street signs that tell the stories of why they
attractions, and myths unlike got the names they have. For example, ‘Main Street’ was given this
name because it is the main street that passes through Gibraltar,
anywhere else. The territory truly is ‘Lynch’s Lane’ commemorates an 18th century merchant called
where history meets. Peter Lynch, who had several businesses in Gibraltar, and ‘Engineer
Lane’ because the Commander of the Royal Engineers regiment
he pint-sized British Overseas Territory of Gibraltar, located at once lived on this street.
T the most southerly tip of Europe, has a heritage quite unlike

anywhere else in the world. The strategic position of the
territory, directly opposite the Moroccan port of Tangier, has meant
GIBRALTAR’S MOORISH ROOTS
Perhaps one of the most evident legacies of all civilisations who
that Gibraltar has been hotly contested for almost 120,000 years. once called Gibraltar home, the Moorish history and myths are
The first Neanderthal skull ever was discovered in Gibraltar, as were the most intriguing. Over 1,300 years ago, Berber ruler Tarik ibn
Ancient Greek coins, Phoenician, Carthaginian, Roman, Spanish, Zeyad crossed the Strait of Gibraltar with his heavily armed ships
Moorish, and Dutch ruins and ships, and now British architecture. and conquered a sparsely populated rock that he named Jebel-
Today, Gibraltar is a tourist hotspot for travellers from every corner Tarik (translated into English as Tarik’s Mountain). It was from this
of the world, visiting the myriad of historic attractions that each tell point that the strategic importance of the rock of Gibraltar became
their own tales of how they contributed to the development of this known, and the Moors have left behind countless architectural
southern European port settlement. Around every corner, down the gems just waiting to be discovered.
main street, along the harbour, up the winding streets around the The Muslim conquest of Spain started in Gibraltar, and over

WORLD TRAVELLER
Getting to Gibraltar
Winston Churchill Avenue, one of the main roads that connects
the sea front to the north of the territory, is a unique phenomenon
in Europe. The road crosses Gibraltar Airport’s runway, so you
can get a front seat view of flights taking off and landing when
you stop at the road barrier.
Gibraltar International Airport is a relatively small airport,
mainly connecting to British airports, with British Airways flights
to London Heathrow and easyJet flights to London Gatwick,
Manchester and Bristol. There are also several flights each week
to Tangier and Casablanca in Morocco with Royal Air Maroc
Express.
As a coastal town, Gibraltar is heavily reliant on its port, with
several cruise ships calling at the Port of Gibraltar every week.
There is also a marina with regular trips out to sea and visits by
some of the world’s most luxurious yachts.
Gibraltar is a haven of history, telling the story of centuries
of European history. Its natural sights, historical attractions, and
furry residents make this a unique and unforgettable destination.
Gibraltar is Britain in the sun.
This spread, left to right: Gibraltar; Mosque; Wildlife; The Great Seige tunnels.
400 years, despite several skirmishes between Muslim and best-preserved Moorish bathhouses in Europe. The Romanesque
Christian armies, the territory was turned into a grand fortress that baths was built in the 14th century as a place for Islamic settlers to
many thought could never be infiltrated. One of the most striking cleanse themselves, but today is no less impressive than it once
attractions, with some of the most spectacular views in southern would have been. The central chamber, with its 16-sided vaulted
Europe, is the Moorish Castle compound, a medieval fortification roof, is impressive, and the dimly lit archways and columns cast
comprising several buildings, gates, towers, and heavily fortified shadows that could easily be mistaken as the ghosts of Moorish
walls. warriors bathing away their sorrows.
The domineering white and yellow sand coloured Tower of
Homage is the tallest Islamic tower in Europe and the Kasbah BRITAIN IN THE SUN
building is the largest in the area. Not only is the tower an important As Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory, and has been since 1704
factor in Moorish Europe, it also offers views right across Gibraltar, when a joint Anglo-Dutch naval force liberated the town, there are
“There are impressions dented into the soft stone walls that were made by
the cannonballs of invading forces trying to push the Moors and then the
British out of the territory.”
out to the port and busy sea lanes, and into Spain in the north. many typically English traditions that take place throughout the year,
Defences and batteries line the top of the castle, with heavy and some of Gibraltar’s most famous landmarks could easily be
metal cannons facing out to sea in preparation for invasions, and mistaken for those on a street in central London.
legendary Macaque monkeys can be seen climbing and swinging The Convent building, located at the southern end of Main Street,
on the walls. There are impressions dented into the soft stone walls has been home to the British Governor of the territory since 1728,
that were made by the cannonballs of invading forces trying to push before which it was a convent for Franciscan Friars since 1531. The
the Moors out of the territory. palatial terracotta-orange building, complete with a grand covered
Just off the main street, opposite the Cathedral of St. Mary the entrance and large sash windows is an impressive sight. A few
Crowned, the basement of Gibraltar Museum is home to one of the days a week a guard mount ceremony takes place, with soldiers

Where to stay
The Rock Hotel is as synonymous with Gibraltar as its
namesake, the rock of Gibraltar. The hotel is situated at the
foothills of the rock of Gibraltar, offering spectacular views
over the territory, out to sea, and further afield to Spain in
the north. The hotel was built in 1932 and has welcomed
world famous politicians and celebrities throughout its history,
including former British Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill,
actors Errol Flynn, Alec Baldwin and Sean Connery, as well as
Beatles singer John Lennon and his wife Yoko Ono.
The hotel offers a typical English afternoon tea, which is
another link to its British roots. In the Lounge Bar guests
can choose to drink Earl Grey, Darjeeling, or fruit and herbal
teas from Ahmad Teas of London, and savour a selection of
sandwiches, cakes and home-made scones with jam and
cream.
“St. Michael’s Cave is a 300-metre high multi-coloured cavern that is

visited by more than 1 million visitors every year.”
of the Royal Gibraltar Regiment in their red coats and white helmets night but was captured, and as a punishment, she was walled up
standing guard at the front of the building. alive inside the guest room, where she died. Several Governors have
Words by: Joe Worthington. Photos by: iStock; Gibraltar Tourism; F&T
Several times a year, a typically British military ceremony takes reported seeing the ghostly figure of a woman walking the corridors
place outside of The Convent building. The changing of the guard and disappearing.
ceremony sees soldiers marching in unison along Main Street,
accompanied by trumpets and drums. There are few places in TUNNELS OF GIBRALTAR
the world where you can witness a British changing of the guard Under the streets of Gibraltar and inside its famous rock, there
ceremony and be guaranteed warm and sunny weather – but in is a warren of hidden tunnels that were excavated by the British
Gibraltar that is just what you will find! between the 18th and 20th centuries. Tunnelling first began in 1782
Next to The Convent building is King’s Chapel, a white square during the Great Siege to provide somewhere for British soldiers
Church of England chapel that was once badly damaged by an to hide from attack, and somewhere to store food, munitions,
explosion of a munitions ship in the late 18th century. Today, the and to provide easy access for secret communications between
semi-domed cavernous ceiling glows from the chandelier lights and messengers watching the Strait of Gibraltar for enemy ships and the
the reflection from the sun shining though the large arched windows. military headquarters further inland.
The Convent building is believed by some to be haunted by the Another legend that has been disproven, but many still believe is
ghost of a nun known as “Lady in Grey”. The ghost is said to wander true, is the existence of a tunnel deep under the Strait of Gibraltar,
the corridor outside of the guest room, where visiting dignitaries sleep, connecting Gibraltar to Cap Spartel near Tangier in Morocco.
where she was walled in centuries ago. Legend suggests that the Roman god and hero Hercules supposedly stayed in the Caves
daughter of a wealthy Spanish nobleman married against her father’s of Hercules on the north Moroccan coast and built a bottomless
wishes, so he forced her to join the Convent of Santa Clara, whose tunnel to Gibraltar, coming out at St. Michael’s Cave, a 300-metre-
building can be seen on Main Street. The woman’s husband joined tall multi-coloured cave that is visited by more than 1 million visitors
the Franciscan Order, based in The Convent building, to be close every year. The cave is just one of 150 inside the rock of Gibraltar.
to her and to plan their escape. The woman tried to escape one Today, visitors can go on guided tours deep into the rock of

WORLD TRAVELLER
This spread, left to right: Airport main highway; Cable car; The Rock
Hotel; World War 2 Tunnels; Moorish Castle.
A popular legend that has existed for more than a century holds
that if the monkeys leave the rock, then British rule in Gibraltar will
end. During the Second World War, when the monkey population
fell to just seven monkeys, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill
Gibraltar, following in the footsteps of the thousands of British ordered that more monkeys be taken from Morocco and Algeria to
soldiers who once spent days at a time hiding and living inside. replenish the numbers on the rock. Whether this legend is true or
At the start of the Second World War, the civilian population was not, locals take it seriously and take good care of their monkeys.
evacuated, and the tunnels were expanded to house troops
escaping from aerial bombardment. You need to book in advance BIRD’S EYE VIEW
for tunnel tours, but clambering through the dimly lit underground The views from across Gibraltar are spectacular, but from 412
hideaways, which are large enough to house 16,000 soldiers and metres above ground on the cable car they are simply unforgettable.
16 months of food, a bakery, a hospital, a vehicle maintenance The cable car takes just six minutes to travel from the ground station
workshop, communications room, and water distillation plant, is an at the southern end of Main Street to the Top Station on the rock of
experience unlike any other. Gibraltar. From the cable cars you can see two continents, Europe
and Africa, three countries, and two bodies of water.
GUARDIANS OF THE ROCK The Top Station is the perfect launching point for exploring the
Perhaps the most peculiar attraction in Gibraltar is the large 300-strong nature reserve, St. Michael’s Cave, the Great Siege Tunnels, and
colony of wild Barbary Macaque monkeys. It is thought that the cheeky the Moorish Castle. Most of Gibraltar’s famous monkeys also live at
monkeys first arrived in Gibraltar during the Moorish period, and they the top of the rock, so you are never more than six minutes away
have thrived in the Upper Rock Nature Reserve, at the top of Gibraltar’s from meeting the territory’s most famous residents – just be careful
famous 426 metre rock at the centre of the territory. as they can be unpredictable, and are expert pickpockets!

Tried &
CHEF’S PALETTE DUBAI

will be the first to admit that my skills in the kitchen leave a lot made, I was tasked with searing the scallops. With the expert
I to be desired. So the thought of attending a cookery class with

a chef who has trained in multiple Michelin star restaurants was
a little daunting. Nevertheless, I made my way to Fairmont The
eye of Romain watching over, these were then plated by the
class and we sat down to enjoy the first course. The dish was
expertly balanced with the creamy scallops pairing perfectly with
Palm with the hope I could channel my inner Heston for just one the zesty tomato and flavourful mushroom.
evening at least. I was immediately put at ease by chef Romain After a round of drinks and enjoyable conversation it was onto
van Durmen. The 30-year-old may have cut his teeth in some of the main, which meant making our own pasta and learning how
the finest restaurants and toughest kitchens in Belgium, but he to take apart a cooked lobster. Again, Romain delivered an
is more than at home in his role as host and teacher. He was expert presentation and broke the process down to simple
quick to make us feel comfortable as he delivered a brief steps. Next, we weighed our ingredients for the pasta. By this
introduction to our evening. Throughout the next three hours we point my apron was covered in flour and my confidence was
would be cooking a main course and a dessert, while Romain growing. Romain was again on hand with words of advice and
would also make a small starter as we attempted to recreate his encouragement and before too long I had made several portions
dishes. This was all taking place in the superbly designed studio of tagliatelle.
in which Chef’s Palette takes place; housed next door to Flow After de-shelling the lobster and cooking the pasta, both were
Kitchen. There are four spacious work stations with all the covered in a creamy bisque and saffron nage that had been
equipment you could ever need, a long wooden table that seats made by the chef. Then it was once again time to sit down and
up to 12 people; and it is here you get to sample the fruits of your enjoy our creations. The lobster simply melted in my mouth.
labour. Then at the front there is a cooking station where Romain By the time the evening had come to a close I not only had a
showcases his skills, which can also be viewed on a big screen better appreciation for how food is prepared in a top kitchen, but
hanging from the ceiling. I was genuinely interested in testing out what I had learnt back at
Words: Adrian Back Images: Fairmont
Once the introductions were out of the way, it was down to the home. This was in no short measure down to the chef’s love of
task of cooking. First up was learning how to make classic Italian cooking, which is infectious, but also the informal atmosphere
tiramisu. While Romain took us through the process, which he of that has been created at Chef’s Palette. As a novice it was a
course made look very simple, all of the ingredients and every great introduction to cooking and the fact that the class can be
kitchen aid we needed were set up by the Chef’s Palette team. tailored to a group or individual’s level makes it even more
Even though the starter is largely prepared by the chef, there appealing. So whether you want to be hands on or simply watch
is a chance to be hands on for those who want to learn a bit a top chef in action, there is something for everyone to enjoy.
more. While a cream of mushroom soup had already been www.fairmont.com/palm-dubai/dining/the-chefs-palette
COOKERY COURSES RESTAURANTS DELIS APPS HOTELS

Where to
Eat
Tried&Tasted
EAT
This month we find Michelin plates on TIMELESS CLASSIC

high in Berlin, theatrical American in Joe Allen Covent Garden London
London’s West End, a bunch of
As the ‘West End’s Canteen’ raises the curtain on a new era, we find out
brunches and some Italian cheer that it’s worthy of an encore. There was outcry from regulars when it was
revealed that Theatreland institution Joe Allen was to be uprooted from
The ultimate family brunch Dubai its Exeter Street home to make way for Robert De Niro’s new boutique
hotel, The Wellington. Since 1977 the beloved American brasserie has
our weekend in Dubai isn’t complete without the perfect been drawing in luvvies, who came for diner classics done with panache
Y brunch getaway. The ‘Ultimate Family Friday Brunch’ at

Fairmont the Palm’s Flow Kitchen is the ideal place for a
relaxing family meal. Chill out while the kids enjoy a special package
and stayed for the air kisses that followed. This was the place to see and
be seen in the Eighties and Nineties and as curtains fell across town,
jobbing thesps and A-listers alike skipped off to its convivial dining room
that includes a brunch with a selection of healthy treats and two for post-show libations and an excellent Caesar salad. Its nickname, the
hours of interactive activities including the chance to take a picture West End’s Canteen, since stuck.
with their favourite cartoon character, face painting, balloon twisting It all started in 1965, when the eponymous Mr Allen launched the
and arts & crafts. Or enjoy the VIP Brunch experience at The Chef’s original site on New York’s 46th Street. Rip-roaring good times were
Palette. A dedicated personal chef and steward will provide you a given and Allen recreated this vibe in the West End. Pianist Jimmy
with specialty cocktails and additional signature dishes such as pan Hardwick tinkled the ivories and raised spirits while guests raised their
seared foie gras, fresh oysters with caviar and smoked wagyu short glasses. Many of the London staff have been in situ for more than 20
ribs. Brunch is served at the Beach Level, from 12:30pm – 3:30pm years – and they’re not all out-of-work actors – both Jeremy King (of
every Friday. Prices start at $85pp for the ‘Ultimate Family Friday The Wolseley) and Polpo’s Russell Norman cut their teeth here.
Brunch’ and $165pp for the VIP Brunch experience at The Chef’s Unperturbed by the need to relocate, current owners Tim Healy and
Palette. For more information and bookings call +971 4 457 3457 Lawrence Hartley embarked upon a brick-by-brick replica of the dining
palm.dining@fairmont.com or visit www.fairmont.com/palm-dubai room a stone’s throw away. The new Joe’s made its debut in September;
while it’s no longer a basement haunt, the red brick, paparazzi-snaps and
theatre paraphernalia – even the rickety chairs – stand as they always
have. But did it take its soul with it? Our visit falls on a chilly Tuesday
night, and as the curtain lifts expectations are high. The menu is a roll
call of classic Americana. Things you really want to eat: steaks, lobster
rolls, hot dogs with hickory mustard, and glazed ribs. Chicken parmigiana
transports us to Little Italy, but it’s the off-menu JA burger that we
are most keen to try. Known only to those who know, the stalwart of
American dining was left off the original menu to limit any association
with the first McDonald’s that hit Britain just before Joe’s. It is succulent,
savoury goodness made with high-grade beef. When dessert is served
alongside one of its classic cocktails and the atmosphere cranks up, it’s
clear one of London’s oldest chums is still breaking a leg. BG.
+44 20 7836 0651, joeallen.co.uk

Eat
Tried & Tasted
G lobal Gourmet
SkyKitchen BERLIN
On the 13th floor of the stylish Vienna House Andel’s Berlin hotel, towering high Midway, peanut- and curry-infused
above the rooftops of the German capital, the city’s youngest Michelin-starred Ibérico hock is as succulent as it is tasty.
chef Alexander Koppe creates ultramodern interpretations of classic European ‘Fruit of the Gods’ – blood orange, pomelo and kumquat cleanses the palate,
dishes. A master of his craft, his ethos is to spice up quality local ingredients with preparing it for gutsy venison with rowan berries. When it comes to dessert,
a pinch of international influence to create a culinary journey around the globe. apple strudel features contemporary notes of hay for a twist on a local favourite.
Expect to explore many facets of flavour over Koppe’s 11-course menu. Afterwards, a digestif should be quaffed at Skybar on the 14th floor where the
Scallops with aloe vera, cucumber and nori enliven your taste buds and lead drinks list shines as brightly as the city below. SW. +49 30 453 053 2620,
on to tender beef dressed with caviar, black radish and shiso plum. skykitchen.berlin
7ELEPHANTS Dubai
DIFC’s newest brunch takes you on a culinary voyage of discovery with 7Elephants
Friday Brunch. Enjoy the signature plates from the 7 traders: Indian, Balinese,
Arabic, British, Italian, Spanish and Mexican. It’s an east meets west explosion of
flavours from different nations covering some of the biggest culinary capitals of the
world. From the iconic tapas platter and signature Middle Eastern dishes, to the Brunch at the Palace Abu Dhabi
sultry character of classic tacos topped off with sinful sweets. Dubai is a melting There are a few things you simply must do in Abu Dhabi, and Brunch at the
pot of different nations and the kitchen team headed by Chef Mahmoud Turkmani Palace is one of them. Brunch begins with a vast selection of appetisers.
complimented by the highly skilled bartenders behind the 35M long bar are ready Once your taste-buds has been piqued, visit the vast array of live cooking
to give you an equally diverse brunch experience best enjoyed with friends, families, stations, the BBQ grill, pasta counter, traditional tandoori and shawarma
and even the little ones. Take the opportunity to relax in the more temperate stations followed by a delicious selection of sweet treats. Add to that an
seasonal weather on their terrace as you savour delicious food paired with specialty exclusive caviar-tasting happy hour from 1pm-2pm, live entertainment,
cocktails and premium bubblies. As the sun goes down, spend a little more time on and kids’ zone, and you have the makings for a perfect afternoon. Aside
the market floor with the After Brunch Unlimited drinks from 4pm-7pm. Whether from the fabulous food, the setting is ideal for chilling out, catching up and
you choose to sit comfortably on the cosy terrace couch or at the trendy dining soaking in the sun with friends and family. Brunch is served in Las Brisa,
table set-up, favour one cuisine or drink choice over the other, there is something every Friday from 12:30pm – 4pm. Prices start at $99pp Kids under 10
for every discerning palate. Brunch is served from 12 noon – 4pm; prices start dine for free and kids between 10-12 at $49pp. Pool and beach access is
from $55pp incl. soft drinks; kids 8-15 $35pp and kids under 8 eat for free. For not included. For more information +971 2 690 7999 email restaurants@
more information contact +971 435 44354 or Reservations@7elephantsdubai.com emiratespalace.ae or visit www.kempinski.com/en/abudhabi

Places to
Stay
This month, we check out a redesign in Phuket, go colonial luxe in New Delhi,
get cosy in the Cotswolds, and dine in the ultimate gourmet escape
ULTIMATE GOURMET BOLTHOLE The elegant style of the Mandarin Oriental perfectly balances the Yin and
Yang of sumptuous traditional Asian inspired décor with a contemporary
Mandarin Oriental HONG KONG essence that embraces the latest in materials and technology. The use of
That Hong Kong has a style of its own is indisputable; a city that has natural wood, marble and stone, mosaics, soft fabrics, comfortable beds,
its own chic-style that demands reverence for not only the magnificent duck-down pillows and deep plush furniture, set to a warm natural palette,
architecture of the myriad of soaring steel and glass edifices that give Hong provide a luxury home-from-home.
Kong its recognisable skyline but the unbridled passion and dedication The Mandarin Oriental offers a truly spectacular array of dining
that permeates throughout the very ether that is an integral part of the experiences, with not one but three Michelin-starred restaurants amongst
heritage and underlying essence that is Hong Kong.What better way to its ten bars and restaurants; from the delights of all-day dining at Café
experience one of the greatest cities in the world than to stay at one of its Causette in the Clipper Lounge and traditional English fare at The Chinnery
greatest hotels – The Mandarin Oriental, renowned for unabashed luxury, to the gourmand Michelin experiences of superlative French cuisine at
outstanding service, attention to detail and a dedication to gastronomy, this Pierre, classic Cantonese delicacies at Man Wah and modern grill classics
award-winning legend has become a Hong Kong institution in its own right; at Mandarin Grill + Bar.
the beating heart of the City for over half a century. Located in Hong Kong’s Whether you are visiting for a business trip, a shopping safari or a
Central district the Mandarin Oriental provides access to the territory’s finest romantic week-end the Mandarin Oriental provides for your every need;
shopping, entertainment, restaurants and cultural spots; and is conveniently sophisticated restaurants, casual dining, lively bars, a relaxing spa, and
connected to Central’s premier addresses via a series of air-conditioned above all else that legendary Mandarin Oriental style and first-class service.
walkways. Doubles from $495. mandarinoriental.com

Sleep
Tried & Tasted
THE LYGON ARMS WORCESTERSHIRE Oliver Cromwell and Evelyn Waugh – though the modern- luxe design
There are few things better than a restorative countryside escape, brings it up to date. Low-slung original beams frame labyrinthine
and few better places to get ensconced than this historic hotel in snugs filled with log fires and plush velvet sofas made for soothing
the Cotswolds. Fresh off the back of a revamp, the 16th-century inn afternoons over the weekend’s papers. MS. Doubles from $310.
is every bit a British affair – previous guests include King Charles I, lygonarmshotel.co.uk
THE LEELA PALACE NEW DELHI, INDIA THE SLATE PHUKET, THAILAND
Don’t panic if you let out a little gasp as you enter this imposing hotel. Designed Like a grain of sand’s transformation into a thing of beauty at
to replicate Edwin Lutyens’ colonial India, it is opulence on the grandest scale. the bottom of the ocean, the Na-Ranong family-owned recently
Think huge chandeliers, lavish furniture, precious metals adorning every table refurbished and renamed hotel The Slate (formally Indigo Pearl)
and an astonishing 14,000 fresh flowers delivered every day. However, it’s not has evolved from a slightly ugly duckling into a swan. The
a case of waste not, want not. The blooms are donated to an NGO and used to design-led hotel tastefully recalls the area’s tin-mining past
make dye for the annual Holi festival. with all manner of defunct machinery adorning its reception
There are 254 palatial guest rooms and suites, all with opulent decor. Suites area, as well as making appearances throughout the hotel’s
come with butler service, access to the exclusive Royal Club Lounge and larger grounds. It’s miles away from the bland international feel of so
suites with private plunge pools. Once you’ve picked your jaw up, take a dip in many resort hotels and is great fun for the kids, but some of
the rooftop infinity pool, a welcome reprieve from the steamy city. Located in the the more brutalist bedrooms with their brushed-concrete finish
upmarket Chanakyapuri district near the park-filled neighbourhood known as would benefit from being given a slightly softer touch.
Diplomatic Enclave, it’s full of well-heeled holidayers and businessmen. It’s a sizeable hotel with 177 rooms and certain pools are
Its five dining options play perfectly to its clientele. There are outposts of reserved for adults only, but the real star attraction is the
New York’s Le Cirque and Megu, plus its signature restaurant Jamavar also signature restaurant Black Ginger, run by talented Chef Piak,
has a Michelin-starred outpost in London. Savour dishes such as gosht ki which makes this hotel worth the stay alone. Reaching this
nihari (Awadhi lamb delicacy lightly flavoured with saffron) and daal Jamavar domain is via a rope-pulled raft across a softly lit lagoon,
(lentils with tomatoes and cream). After dinner, retire to The Library bar, with its adding to the theatre of the experience. The traditional Thai
extensive whisky menu and Indian-spiced cocktails such as a chicory marsala cuisine draws from different regions of the country but with
martini. AD. Doubles from $285. preferredhotels.com an emphasis on Chef Piak’s southern Thai roots. Dishes such
as gaeng poo bai cha ploo (southern style crab curry), som
tam (green papaya salad) and poh pia sod (roll-your-own rice-
flour pancakes) are elevated from their street food roots into
Michelin-grade plates. GR. Doubles from $380.
theslatephuket.com
JANUARY
For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use sustainably and locally produced ingredients if possible. Eggs should always be free-range.
1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml
THE PANTRYPAGES 20-24
Kimchi chicken kebabs pieces and put in bowl. Add

with Napa cabbage salad the kimchi and mix well to coat.
Rosemary and parmesan a baking tray with baking paper. and ginger dressing Leave to marinate in the fridge for
seeded oatcakes with Pick the leaves from the remaining SERVES 4 3-4 hours. Put the ginger, garlic,
rosemary-infused olive oil rosemary sprigs and finely chop. lemon juice, caster sugar and rice
SERVES 4-6 Tip the oats into a large bowl. Put 3 skinless chicken breasts vinegar in a small bowl and stir
the pumpkin seeds, walnuts and 4 tbsp. kimchi (homemade or together. Gradually whisk in the
200ml olive oil sunflower seeds in a blender and store-bought) olive and sesame oil. Season and
8 rosemary sprigs blitz until the mixture resembles 4 cm piece ginger, finely set aside. Put the Napa and red
120g rolled oats breadcrumbs. Add to the bowl with chopped cabbage in a bowl. Add the radish,
65g pumpkin seeds the oats. ½ garlic clove, crushed spring onion, apple and coriander
95g walnuts Season the mixture generously 1 tbsp. lemon juice and mix well. Pour over half the
70g sunflower seeds and add the parmesan, rosemary, ½ tsp caster sugar dressing and turn to coat. Thread
30g parmesan, finely grated baking powder, beaten egg and 1 tbsp. rice vinegar the chicken pieces onto metal
½ tsp baking powder water. Stir to bring the mixture 2 tbsp. olive oil skewers. Set a griddle pan with 1
1 egg, beaten together, adding a little more water 1 tbsp. sesame oil tbsp. olive oil over a high heat. Add
2 tbsp. water if necessary. Transfer to the lined 150g Napa cabbage, shredded the skewers to the pan and cook,
Labneh or mozzarella, to serve baking tray, then place another 100g red cabbage, shredded in batches if necessary, for 3-4
sheet of baking paper on top. Use 4 breakfast radishes, thinly minutes on each side until lightly
Pour the olive oil into a small a rolling pin to flatten the mixture sliced charred and cooked through.
saucepan and add 5 rosemary to approximately 0.5cm thick. 4 spring onions, thinly sliced Serve the chicken skewers with
sprigs. Set the pan over a low heat Remove the top piece of baking 1 green apple, thinly sliced the Napa cabbage salad and the
and cook for 5 minutes. Remove paper. Bake for 15-20 minutes until ½ bunch coriander, leaves extra dressing on the side.
from the heat and leave to cool crisp and golden. Leave to cool picked and chopped
completely then transfer to a bottle completely, then break into shards. ½ tbsp. black sesame seeds
and keep in the fridge until needed. Serve with the rosemary-infused oil ½ tbsp. white sesame seeds
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line and labneh or mozzarella. Dice the chicken into bite-sized

SIMPLY THE BEST PAGES 32-39
50g caster sugar

5g fine salt
5g ascorbic acid
500g courgettes
Put the vinegar, caster sugar, salt

and ascorbic acid in a saucepan
Savoury porridge with soy over a high heat and bring to the
and honey-braised bok choy boil. Leave to cool completely. Slice
and jammy boiled eggs the courgettes lengthways into
SERVES 4 long 1mm thick strips – a mandolin
is the easiest way to do this. Lay
Quick kimchi 4 eggs the courgette strips over the base
MAKES A 1 LITRE JAR 2 tbsp. olive oil of a large shallow dish. Pour over
1 shallot, finely chopped the cooled liquid, making sure the
1 medium Napa cabbage, outer 220g porridge oats courgette strips are completely
leaves removed 350ml milk Jasmine rice, marmite and covered. Leave to marinate for three
1 ½ tbsp. caster sugar 100ml water courgette hours in the fridge.
3 cm piece ginger, crushed 2 heads bok choy, split in half SERVES 6
3 garlic cloves, crushed lengthways Marmite job’s tears
3 tbsp. rice vinegar 1 clove garlic, thinly sliced Jasmine rice puree 50g job’s tears (also known as
1 tbsp. fish sauce 2 tbsp. soy sauce 100g jasmine rice coix seed or Chinese pearl barley)
3 tbsp. sriracha sauce 1 tbsp. honey 1 litre mineral water 50g marmite
1 carrot, sliced 1 tbsp. black sesame seeds 2 x gelatine sheets vegetable oil, for deep-frying
1 daikon or white radish, sliced 1 red chill, finely sliced 100g Marmite
4 spring onions, finely chopped 15 agar-agar Wash the seeds then tip into a
Bring a large pan of salted water 2g fine salt saucepan and cover with 1 litre
Shred the cabbage into thin to the boil, add the eggs and boil 2 x N20 Cream Whipper Chargers water. Bring to the boil, then reduce
strips and transfer to a large bowl. for 6 ½ minutes. Remove from the heat and cook for 45 -50
Sprinkle generously with salt, the pan with a slotted spoon and Wash the rice, drain and put in a large minutes, until softened. Drain well.
add half the sugar and mix really transfer to a bowl of iced water. saucepan. Cover with 1 litre mineral Heat the oven to 75°C. Spread
well. Set aside for at least 1 hour. Leave to cool until just warm then water and bring to the boil. Reduce to the drained seeds out on a baking
Meanwhile put the ginger, garlic, carefully peel the eggs. Set aside. a simmer and cook for 30 minutes, tray. Transfer to the oven and leave
rice vinegar, fish sauce, sriracha Heat 1 tbsp. olive oil in saucepan until the grains are starting to break to dry out for 24 hours, until fully
and remaining sugar in a blender over a medium-low heat. Add the up. Drain well. Soak the gelatine dehydrated. Put the Marmite in a
and blitz. Squeeze any excess chopped shallot and cook for 3-4 leaves in iced water for 5 minutes until large saucepan with 50g water,
water from the salted cabbage minutes, until softened. Tip in the soft. Remove and squeeze to get mix well and warm through over a
and transfer to a clean bowl. Add oats, stirring to coat. Pour in the rid of the excess water. Put the rice, low heat. Fill a deep, heavy-based
the carrot, white radish and spring milk and season with salt. Bring to marmite, salt and gelatine leaves in a saucepan three-quarters full with oil
onions, then stir in the sriracha the boil then reduce the heat to a blender and blitz until smooth. Pour and heat to 220°C. Carefully add
paste. Mix really well to coat. simmer and cook for 6-8 minutes, into a shallow tray or dish and leave the seeds to the oil and fry for 15
Serve immediately or transfer to a stirring often to prevent the mixture to cool. Once cool, whisk in the agar- seconds until they puff up. Remove
sterilised jar and keep in the fridge from catching. Set a frying pan agar and pour into a deep saucepan. with a slotted spoon and transfer to
for up to two weeks over a high heat. Put the bok choy Set the saucepan over a high heat the Marmite mixture. Stir well to coat.
and garlic in a bowl and drizzle with and bring almost to the boil, stirring Spread the seeds out on a baking
the remaining oil, soy sauce and constantly to prevent catching. Return tray and return to the 75°C oven for
honey. When you can feel a strong the mixture to the blender and blend 60 minutes, until the Marmite has
heat rising from the pan add the for 30 seconds. Cool completely, dried out and is no longer sticky.
bok choy and cook for 3-4 minutes then blend again. Strain the mixture
until tender. Drizzle with any of the through a fine sieve and pour into a To serve
honey-soy mixture left in the bowl. cream whipper canister. Add two gas Roll seven courgette strips per
Divide the porridge between serving chargers, shake well and set aside for portion into cylinder shapes and
bowls and top with the braised boy 30 minutes. arrange on plates. Add a few job’s
choy. Add a soft-boiled egg to each tears to the base of each one, then
bowl and scatter with the sesame Pickled courgettes fill with the jasmine rice puree. Scatter
seeds and chilli. 100g white grape vinegar with more job’s tears and serve.

RECIPES
minutes, then gradually add the

butter. Add the eggs one at a time,
mixing thoroughly between each
addition. Continue to mix until
the dough is smooth, glossy and
elastic. Tip out onto a floured work
surface and roll (don’t knead) into a
cylindrical loaf shape. Wrap in cling
film and chill for 12 hours. Remove
the chilled dough from the fridge
and divide into 15g pieces. Form
the pieces into flat disks with the
palm of your hand and chill once
again. Working one disk at a time,
with lightly floured hands wrap
a piece of dough around each
frozen snail as evenly as possible
– try not to let the dough soften Goats cheese, tamarind
too much or the emulsion will leak and coriander seeds
out. Pinch the edges of the dough SERVES 6
together to seal and remove any
excess dough with scissors. Whipped goats cheese
Roll into an even spherical 300g soft goats’ cheese (rind
shape and place on a baking removed)
Snails, garlic shoots and Combine the cooking water and tray lined with baking parchment. 30g whipping cream
parsley snails and pack into a vac-pac Repeat with the remaining dough 20g white grape vinegar
SERVES 6-8 bag. Cook in a water bath at 75°C and snails and then freeze until
for six hours. Drain, reserving the needed. Break the goats’ cheese into rough
Snails and garlic butter liquid and snails. Put the liquid in pieces and put in a food processor
500g snail meat a saucepan set over a high heat. Garlic shoot emulsion with the double cream and white
60g fine salt Reduce to 250ml. Add the butter 50g egg white grape vinegar. Blend until smooth,
500ml white grape vinegar to make a soft emulsion, then 5g fine salt then transfer to a piping bag.
1 litre mineral water transfer to a bowl and cool to room 20g white grape vinegar
1 head fennel, cut into 2cm dice temperature – the consistency 300g rapeseed oil Tamarind chutney (must be
2 carrots, cut into 2cm dice should be soft and spreadable. 50g spinach puree prepared in advance)
1 onion, cut into 2cm dice Stir in the garlic and parsley and 50g garlic shoot juice 800g tamarind
2 celery sticks, cut into 2cm season. Stir in the cooled snails 800ml mineral water
dice and divide into portions (working Put the egg white, salt and vinegar 1 tbsp. vegetable oil
2 bay leaves, cut into 2cm dice on a basis of two snails and a in a bowl and blitz with a hand 150g onion, diced
200g unsalted butter spoonful of emulsion per portion). blender until foamy. 60g ginger grated
40g garlic, crushed Arrange on a baking tray and chill Gradually add the egg white until 250g jaggery
100g parsley, leaves picked and in the fridge. Once chilled, roll into emulsified. Pour into a bowl and 250g malt vinegar
finely chopped ball shapes and freeze. fold in the and egg white, blend
until foamy then very gradually add Bring 800ml water to the boil and add
Put the snail meat in a shallow Brioche dough the rapeseed oil until emulsified. In the tamarind. Leave to soak for 30
dish, cover with 50g salt, turn to 10g yeast a bowl fold the emulsion together minutes. Strain and pick through the
coat and leave for 30 minutes. 55g caster sugar with the spinach puree and garlic mixture to remove the seeds – you
Rinse the snail meat well to 80g full fat milk, warmed shoot juice. Transfer to a squeezy will be left with a paste-like mixture.
remove the salt. Place in a 570g strong bread flour, plus bottle and set aside. Set a saucepan with 1 tbsp. oil
saucepan and cover with the white extra for dusting over a medium-low heat. Add the
grape vinegar. Set aside for 1 hour. 13g salt To serve onion and cook for 6-8 minutes,
Put the snail meat in a saucepan, 90g unsalted butter, softened Fill a deep, heavy-based saucepan until softened. Add the ginger and
cover with water and bring to 5 whole medium-sized eggs three-quarters full with oil and heat jaggery, increase the heat slightly
the boil. Drain, leave to cool and to 180°C. Fry the snail doughnuts and cook for 3-4 minutes, until
repeat this process twice more. Mix the yeast, sugar and milk and for two minutes, then transfer to the jaggery caramelises. Pour over
Add the remaining salt, set aside for 5 minutes to come to an oven preheated to 180°C for 4 the malt vinegar and cook until
vegetables and bay leaves to the room temperature. minutes. Put the same number of reduced to a syrup, then stir in the
snail cooking water, bring to the Put the flour and salt in an dots of garlic shoot emulsion as tamarind. Once thickened remove
boil and simmer for 10 minutes. electric stand mixer fitted with a you are serving snail doughnuts on the pan from the heat and pass the
Remove from the heat and leave dough hook. Add the milk and serving plates. Place the snails on mixture through a fine sieve. Store
to cool completely, then strain. yeast mixture and beat for 3-4 top and serve. in the fridge until needed.

Coriander sponge crouton dice the cucumber into 1cm
100g toasted coriander seeds, cubes and serve 5-7 pieces per
blitzed to a powder, plus extra portion.
to garnish
80g isomalt Shallot rings
50g plain flour 2 medium banana shallots,
7g fine salt sliced into 1mm thick rings
175g egg yolk 50g plain flour
240g egg white Fine salt
2 x NO2 Cream Whipper Vegetable oil, for deep frying
Chargers
Vegetable oil, for deep frying Fill a deep, heavy-based saucepan
Coriander shoots, to serve three-quarters full with oil and
heat to 125°C or heat a deep fat
Put the coriander seeds, isomalt, fryer to 125°C. Lightly coat the
flour and salt in a blender and blitz. shallot rings in the flour, shaking
Add the egg yolks and whites and to remove any excess. Carefully
blend again. Strain the mixture drop the shallot rings into the hot
through a fine sieve and pour into oil, making sure they don’t stick
a cream whipper canister. Add together. Fry for 2 minutes, until
two gas chargers and shake well. golden. Drain on kitchen paper.
Pipe the mixture into small plastic Sprinkle with salt while still warm,
containers and microwave for 1 then leave to dry out in a warm
minute on full power. Remove place.
and break into 2-3cm pieces. Roe deer tartare, charcoal in the fridge. Once set, break into
When you’re ready to serve, fill and Worcestershire sauce pieces and blend again, being Charcoal vinaigrette
a deep, heavy-based saucepan SERVES 6 careful not to over process the 250g pomace charcoal oil
three-quarters full with oil and heat mixture. Pass through a fine sieve (pomace olive infused with hot
to 180°C. Fry the sponge for 30 Curing salt and transfer to a squeezy bottle. charcoal)
seconds, until slightly crisp, then 600g roe deer shoulder 50g white grape vinegar
transfer to a 180°C oven for a 3 500g fine salt Egg yolk confit
minutes. Drain on kitchen paper. 500g caster sugar 15 egg yolks Blend the oil and vinegar together
70g Chinese five-spice 2g fine salt to emulsify. Transfer to a squeezy
To serve bottle, leaving a 3cm gap at the
Pipe three large dots of goats’ Remove all the sinew from the Place the egg yolks in a vac pac top as you will need to shake the
cheese onto each plate and roe deer shoulder and place in a bag, seal and cook in a 75°C bottle to re-emulsify the mix just
sprinkle with the reserved toasted shallow dish or baking tray. Mix the water bath for 17 minutes. before serving.
coriander seeds. Pipe smaller dots salt, sugar and five-spice together Mix the salt and egg yolks
of the tamarind chutney around the and cover the meat completely. together and pass through a fine To serve:
cheese. Garnish with the sponge Chill in the fridge for four hours. sieve. Transfer to a piping bag and 40g chopped shallots, rinsed in
croutons and finish by adding the Scrape off the salt sure and rinse chill in the fridge. cold water
coriander shoots. the meat in iced water. Place on a baby rocket cress
wire rack and chill in the fridge for Cornichons
four more hours. Cut the meat into 500g cucumbers Mix the diced roe shoulder with the
0.5cm cubes, allocating 50g meat 130g fine salt chopped shallots. Drizzle with the
per portion. Place in a bowl and 450g mineral water charcoal dressing and mix again,
keep in the fridge until needed. 3 cloves then taste to check the seasoning.
2 bay leaves Put a stainless steel ring or cutter
Worcestershire sauce gel 1 clove garlic in the middle of six plates and
650g Worcestershire sauce 1 onion, sliced spoon equal amounts of the
350g mineral water 20 black peppercorns roe deer shoulder into the rings,
15g agar-agar pressing down lightly. Remove
Put all the ingredients apart from the rings and add five dots each
Put the Worcestershire sauce, the cucumbers in a saucepan of both Worcestershire sauce gel
water and agar-agar in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Remove and egg yolk confit around the
set over a high heat. Bring to the from the heat and cool slightly. Put circle of roe deer. Arrange the
boil, whisking constantly. Remove the cucumbers in a full sealable diced cornichons in the gaps and
from the heat and blitz well with a container, pour over the pickling garnish with the crispy shallot rings
hand blender. Pour into a shallow liquor and leave to marinate in the and baby rocket cress.
tray and leave to set to a firm jelly fridge for four weeks. To serve,

RECIPES
80g egg yolks in a saucepan over a medium

50g caster sugar heat. Bring to a simmer, then
40g water remove from the heat. Whisk the
60g egg whites eggs and 50g water together in a
300g whipping cream bowl suspended over a saucepan
of barely simmering water. At the
Soak the gelatine leaves in iced same time, put the sugar and
water for 5 minutes until soft. water in a saucepan and simmer
Remove and squeeze to get until the sugar dissolves. Increase
rid of the excess water. Blitz the heat until the mixture reaches
the gingerbread to fine crumbs 121°C on a sugar thermometer
in a food processor. Put the (soft ball stage). Leave to cool
gingerbread crumbs in a saucepan slightly. Once the eggs are light
with 200g whipping cream and and fluffy, gradually pour in the
bring to the boil. Remove from liquid sugar. Remove the bowl from
the heat and blitz with a hand the heat and continue to whisk
blender to make a smooth puree. until cool. Gently fold in the lemon Quinoa salad with feta,
Whisk the egg yolks in a kitchen syrup you made earlier and transfer pomegranates and charred
stand mixer fitted with a whisk to a Paco Jet container. Freeze spring onions
Gingerbread and lemon attachment until pale and thick. At for 12 hours. Just before serving, SERVES 4-6
thyme the same time, put the sugar and churn the sorbet using a Paco Jet
SERVES 6-8 water in a saucepan and simmer machine, then return to the freezer. 200g quinoa, rinsed
until the sugar dissolves. Increase 300ml chicken or vegetable stock
Gingerbread and wafers the heat until the mixture reaches Crystallised ginger 5 tbsp. olive oil
400g unsalted butter 121°C on sugar thermometer (soft 100g ginger 1 bunch spring onions, trimmed
300g caster sugar ball stage). Leave to cool slightly. 120g caster sugar Juice and zest of ½ lemon
3 eggs Reduce the speed on the mixer 2 tsp sumac
450g full fat milk to the lowest setting and carefully Peel the ginger and cut in to 2 tbsp. pomegranate molasses
450g maple syrup add the liquid sugar. Increase the 3mm thick batons. Put in a small 1 tbsp. honey
3 tsp baking soda speed to medium and continue to saucepan, cover with water and 150g feta, crumbled
840g plain flour whisk until the base of the mixing bring to the boil. Drain and repeat Seeds from 1 pomegranate
8 tsp ground ginger bowl has cooled. Transfer to a new this process three more times ½ bunch mint, leaves picked
8 tsp ground cinnamon bowl. Clean and dry the bowl of using. Cut the ginger into dice and ½ bunch coriander, leaves picked
the kitchen stand mixer. Add the put in a saucepan with the sugar.
In a dough mixer fitted with a egg whites and whip on full power Heat until sugar melts and reaches Put the quinoa in a pan and pour
whisk attachment cream the butter until light and fluffy. Meanwhile 120C. Remove the ginger pieces over the chicken or vegetable stock.
and sugar together until light and whisk the remaining cream until with a fork and transfer to a tray Set over a high heat and bring to the
fluffy, then add the eggs, milk it is half whipped (ribbon stage). lined with baking parchment. Leave boil. Reduce the heat and simmer
and syrup. Mix well. Fold in the Carefully add the whipped egg to dry out at room temperature for for 10-12 minutes until cooked – the
baking soda, flour, ginger and yolks to the gingerbread puree, six hours quinoa should absorb all the liquid.
cinnamon by hand. Divide the followed by the egg whites, then Remove from the heat, cover with
mixture between two loaf tins lined slowly fold in the cream, being To serve a lid and leave for 5 minutes more,
with baking parchment. Cook in an careful not to over over-whisk as Layer the gingerbread slices and then tip into a bowl. Drizzle with 1
oven preheated to 170°C for 30 this will knock the air out. Pour parfait pieces together, starting tbsp. olive oil and fluff up with a fork.
minutes. Leave to cool completely, into 2 loaf tins lined with cling film with the gingerbread, so that you Put the spring onions in a bowl,
then remove from the tins and chill and freeze for 12 hours. Remove use four gingerbread slices and drizzle with 1 tbsp. olive oil and
in the fridge for 12 hours. Very the parfait from the tin and cut into three slices of parfait per portion. add the lemon juice and zest and
finely slice one of the gingerbread 5mm slices. Arrange on a tray and Decorate with the crystallized 1 tsp sumac. Season and mix well
loaves into 1.5mm thick wafers. return to the freezer. ginger. Add a scoop of sorbet to to coat. Set a griddle pan over a
Arrange the wafers on a baking each plate and garnish with lemon high heat. When you can feel a
tray lined with baking paper and Lemon thyme sorbet thyme leaves and a little more strong heat rising from the pan
then place another tray on top to 250g lemon juice crystallized ginger. and the spring onions and cook
flatten. Set the other loaf aside and 12g lemon thyme for 2-3 minutes on each side until
use to make the parfait. Bake in a 150g sugar lightly charred. Whisk together
180°C oven for 7-10 minutes until 35g glucose the remaining olive oil, sumac,
crisp and dry. 300g mineral water pomegranate molasses and honey.
400g water Season. Stir the crumbled feta,
Gingerbread parfait 80g egg yolks pomegranate seeds and herbs into
8g gelatine leaves the quinoa. Drizzle over the dressing,
200g gingerbread (see above) Put the lemon juice, lemon thyme, mix well and arrange the charred
200g whipping cream 100g sugar, the glucose and water spring onions on top.

Elderflower and apple 300g stock syrup
cheesecake 200g green apple juice
SERVES 6 -8 400g green apple puree
120g egg yolk
Digestive biscuit base 60g caster sugar
120g wholemeal flour 30g mineral water
120g oat flour
5g salt Freeze the green apple skins
25g sugar completely. Blend in a Paco Jet
50g milk machine, then refreeze.
10g malt vinegar Put the stock syrup, apple puree
100g butter, softened and apple juice in a saucepan
75g butter, melted and bring to a simmer. Leave to
cool completely. Whisk the eggs
To make the digestive biscuits blend and 50g water together in a bowl
all the dry ingredients together in suspended over a saucepan of
a food processor, then add the barely simmering water. At the same
milk and vinegar followed by 100g time, put the sugar and water in
softened butter. Tip onto a baking a saucepan and simmer until the
tray lined with baking paper and sugar dissolves. Increase the heat Nick’s chicken curry twisting it – if the bone pops out
spread out to a thickness off 5mm. until the mixture reaches 121°C SERVES 6-8 the meat is ready. Remove the
Bake in a 180°C oven for 12-15 on a sugar thermometer (soft ball remaining legs with a slotted
minutes until dry. Leave to cool stage). Leave to cool slightly. Curry spoon and leave to cool. Strain
completely. Put digestive biscuit base Once the eggs are light and fluffy, 2 litres water the cooking water into another
in a blender and blitz to fine crumbs. gradually pour in the liquid sugar. 8 chicken legs pan – this now becomes the stock
Mix in the melted butter. Press evenly Remove the bowl from the heat and 100ml vegetable oil for the rice. Once cool enough to
over the base of a large rectangular continue to whisk until cool. Add the 1 large onion, finely diced handle pick the meat from chicken,
dish lined with baking parchment apple stock you made earlier and 2 cloves garlic, crushed discarding the skin and bones.
to a thickness of 5mm. Flatten the transfer to Paco Jet beakers, leaving 1 thumb-size piece ginger, finely Place in a bowl and cover tightly
surface with the back of a spoon a bit of space at the top of each chopped with cling film. Set a large pan with
and chill in the fridge. container. Freeze. Once frozen, add 1 tablespoon garam masala the vegetable oil over a low heat
the apple skins to the containers, 1 tablespoon turmeric and add the onion, ginger and
Cheesecake mix blend again and refreeze. 1 tablespoon curry powder garlic. Cook until the onions have
3 gelatine leaves 800ml coconut milk softened but not coloured, then stir
100g caster sugar Green apple gel 200g crème fraiche in the spices and a pinch of salt.
200g whipping cream 300g green apple juice ½ bunch mint, leaves picked Cook for five minutes, stirring often,
300g cream cheese 400g green apple puree and chopped then pour in 500ml chicken stock
100g crème fraiche 10g agar-agar ½ bunch coriander, leaves and reduce to around 100ml. Add
110g elderflower syrup Small drop green food colouring picked and chopped the coconut milk, bring to the boil
20g lemon juice 2 tbsp. chopped peanuts or pine and cook for 5 minutes more until
Put all the ingredients in a saucepan nuts thickened. Whisk in the crème
Soak the gelatine leaves in iced and bring to a simmer. Remove fraiche and set aside. To cook the
water for 5 minutes until soft. from the heat and blend with a hand Basmati rice rice, bring 800ml of the chicken
Remove and squeeze to get rid of blender for 10 seconds, then pour 800g basmati rice (soaked in stock that you made earlier to the
the excess water. Put in a saucepan into a tray and transfer to the fridge water for 15 minutes) boil. In a separate large saucepan
with the sugar and 100g cream to set. Once firm remove the jelly 1 tbsp. vegetable oil heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
and warm through gently to melt from the fridge and blend again until 2 red onions, sliced over a medium heat. Add the
the gelatine. Set aside. Whip the smooth, being careful not to over 2 bay leaves red onion, cloves, cardamom,
remaining cream until half whipped blend. Strain through a fine sieve 5 cloves cinnamon and bay leaf and cook
(ribbon stage). In a mixing bowl beat them transfer to a squeezy bottle ½ cinnamon stick for 3-4 minutes. Tip the soaked
the cream cheese, elderflower syrup and keep in the fridge until needed. 7 cardamom pods rice into the pan and stir well to
and lemon juice together until soft. coat. Carefully pour in the hot
Gradually add the cream cheese To serve Put the chicken legs in a saucepan chicken stock and simmer for 15
mix to the half-whipped cream, then Remove the cheesecake from and cover completely with at least -20 minutes, stirring every few
fold in the gelatine mix you set aside the fridge and slice into individual 1 litre water. Add a little salt and minutes, until the rice is cooked.
earlier. Pour over the chilled biscuit portions. Arrange the slices on bring to the boil. Reduce the heat Drain well. Just before you’re
base and return to the fridge to set serving plates and decorate with to a simmer and cook for 15-20 ready to serve add the chicken
for 5 hours. dots of the apple gel and the edible minutes, skimming off any foam to the pan with the curry sauce
flowers, if using. Add a scoop of that rises to the surface. Test to and reheat. Serve the chicken
Green apple sorbet sorbet and serve. Edible flowers check if the chicken is cooked curry and rice garnished with the
10 green apple skins (optional) by removing one of the legs and chopped herbs.

LAST WORD WITH
Romain
van Durmen
Chef de Cuisine for The Chefs Palette, Cooking Studio,
Fairmont The Palm
All my early memories are of being in the kitchen as my father was a chef and I was always with him, learning
everything I could from a very young age. My grandfather was also a chef and every Christmas he would bake lots of bread
for everybody to enjoy, so cooking is a real family tradition. My father never made it easy for me though and even in my first
restaurant when I was 14, he told the chef not to pay me and to really push me. But it was this that inspired me to become a chef
as I loved it right away. I was working 12 hour days as a teenager but it was never hard because I liked it so much.
When I was 17, I started working in a two star Michelin restaurant in Belgium called Le Château Du Mylord and I would work
16 or 18 hour days. There was a lot of pressure and I was always tired. It is something that I will never forget as there was stress, you had
big fights with colleagues. But at the same time, I loved every minute of it because I was passionate about food. It was almost like being in
a relationship, it required a lot of passion.
I have always loved to travel and was lucky enough to work in Vietnam where I was training local chefs. It was amazing as food
throughout the country is great. It is here I developed a love of street food and that was all I ate when traveling around Thailand, Laos and
Cambodia. Spain is also a favourite of mine as my brother lives in Madrid which is just a perfect city for eating together and having big meals
at amazing little cafes and bistros.
When I’m in Dubai I love to eat at the restaurants that serve the classics. Le Petite Maison is great as the menu is simple but
everything is made perfectly. It is why when I go back home to Belgium I seek out traditional Belgian cuisine as it holds such rich
memories for me. And yes, the stereotype is true, we do very much love our potatoes, our chocolate and our hops.
I still cook at home every night as well, though I like to keep it simple. For me there is nothing better than a nice rustic
chicken soup or a nice piece of freshly baked bread with some pâté. It is so important to have that taste of home and to eat
something traditional.
I try to get back to Belgium as much as possible and always try to get back to nature as I love to relax in the
forest or up in the mountains. Working in a hotel in a big city, it is nice to get away from it all and I often visit my
cousin’s farm and simply go fishing. But my next big trip will hopefully be to Japan as I am desperate to
visit that country. And for sure I will eat all day long as even the street vendors do amazing food.
Going ahead I have no idea what the future holds and I am only 30, but I can
never leave a job without being successful. I spent three years at Café Belge
and when I left the restaurant had never been as successful. Now I
want to make Chef’s Palette a success.
Words: Adrian Back

Images: Fairmont; Food & Travel: iStock

Food and Travel Arabia January 2018

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La Vinoteca Game on:

SIMPLY THE BEST

Taste the experience

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BROWN’S HOTEL LONDON

THE OCEAN CLUB Bahamas

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om Aikens begins our conversation at Pots Pans & Boards,

T his relaxed, family-friendly restaurant at the top end of The

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“Although he may well have

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This page: Tom Aikens; Truffle chips & Steak tartare.

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ast month we announced the finalists for 2018 GCC

L Food & Travel Awards

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PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: SUKAINA RAJABALI

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A with abstinence, thrift and the

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“Your own little piece of paradise; Hilton

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Mahé Day Trip

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JASMINE RICE, MARMITE GOATS CHEESE, TAMARIND

DID YOU KNOW /INSIDER INFO TIP

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RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

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SNAILS, GARLIC SHOOTS AND PARSLEY

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GINGERBREAD AND LEMON THYME

RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

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RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

38 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

SCOTT’S QUINOA SALAD WITH FETA, NICK’S CHICKEN CURRY

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I pride in his work, his personal ethos of excellence is reﬂected in

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