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How to pH Test Handmade Soap Properly (And Why It Matters!)

By Kenna 51 Comments

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One of the common questions that come up on Modern Soapmaking, especially in hot
process and liquid soapmaking tutorials, is how to pH test handmade soap. It�s easy
to understand why when there is so much conflicting information on the internet!

I hope to clear up a lot of common misconceptions about the why and how of pH
testing handmade soap in this article, and will be including information and
examples for various kinds of soap! Before we dive in, let�s review�

What is pH anyhow?
pH is a measurement of the hydrogen ion concentration in an aqueous (water)
solution. Solutions with a high concentration of hydrogen ions have a low pH, while
solutions with a low concentrations of hydrogen ions have a high pH.

Neutral is a pH of 7, while anything above that is alkaline, and anything below is

acidic. Most people are familiar with the pH of household substances like citrus
juices, milk, and various cleaning products, but just in case you aren�t, here�s a
quick approximate comparison chart of common materials on a pH scale:

Handmade soaps are typically between a pH of 8 and 10, but can creep up near a pH
of 11.

As far as I�m aware (and have been able to find scientific evidence for � the
important part), it is impossible for a handmade soap to fall near neutral or below
without using an emulsifier to keep the soap molecules within the solution. I know
that soapmakers frequently state that they can or do create neutral pH soap, but
such products don�t tend to be true soap, meaning that they aren�t composed mainly
of the alkali salts of fatty acids.

Sometime ago, Kevin Dunn asked the handmade soapmaking community to please send him
a soap with a pH of 7 or below, and as far as I�m aware, no one was able to do so.

Important Notes about pH & Soap

There are two key points I want to jump into here, before we start talking about pH
testing soaps.

First, it�s important to keep in mind that pH is a measurement of hydrogen ions in

an aqueous solution. It is not a measurement of hydrogen ions in whatever substance
you feel like measuring! Obviously, when you are looking at bar soap, it�s a
relatively solid material � not an aqueous solution. In order to properly test the
pH of a bar soap, you should attempt to use a solution. (We�ll get more into that
later on.)

The second important note is that pH is not a direct relationship to how harsh or
mild a product is (whatever that means in the first place!) When it comes to skin
chemistry, a common misconception is that your skin has a pH � it doesn�t, your
acid mantle does. The acid mantle can have a varying pH between 4.5 and 6.2,
depending on your ethnicity, age, and gender, as well as the area of the body, the
humidity, and various other factors. Your acid mantle acts as a barrier on top of
your skin that helps discourage the growth of fungi and bacteria.

In general, brief exposure to slightly acidic or slightly alkaline material (like

using handmade soap, which is slightly alkaline) does not harm the acid mantle.
Healthy skin can rebalance the acid mantle in a very short amount of time (in as
little as 15 minutes to as long as 90 minutes). Long-term or prolonged exposure
(such as applying a high pH product to your skin and leaving it on for hours) can
cause damage, just as exposure to extremely acidic or extremely alkaline (like
sodium hydroxide) material can.

Even if you wash your skin with tap water (typical pH between 6 and 8.5 depending
on the source) and no soap or cleanser at all, the pH of your acid mantle will
slightly increase immediately following washing. (In a study of infants, water-only
washing sees a pH rise of 1.1 while alkaline soap, like handmade soap, sees a rise
of 1.2 points.) Furthermore, there are plenty of high pH products on the market
that are less irritable to the skin than lower pH products! (One study found that
Johnson�s Baby Oat soap, with a pH of 12.35, was the least irritating soap tested,
while another soap with a pH of 9.36 was the most irritating.)

The recent onslaught of �pH-balanced� skin care products is largely a marketing

ploy, and pH should not be viewed as an indicator of whether or not a product is
irritable to your skin unless it is being applied for hours at a time or has an
extremely acidic or alkaline pH that could cause damage.

Well, what�s the point of pH testing soap then?

A lot of soapmakers attempt to use pH testing as a indication of excess alkali, and
this is flawed for a few reasons.

First, unless a soap contains a large amount of excess alkali, it could test within
a �normal� pH range for handmade soap (between 8 and 10). And, if given enough time
to cure, lye-heavy soap could eventually test normal as carbon dioxide works its
magic on free alkali. (Fun fact: sodium hydroxide + carbon dioxide = sodium
carbonate, which is soda ash!)

Plus, handmade soap fresh out of the mold could be unfinished, in that
saponification is not fully complete. How quickly a properly made soap saponifies
depends on the oils used (or the fatty acid profile of the formula), as well as the
temperature of the soap and the environment, and can range from as little as 24
hours to multiple weeks.

The second reason this can be flawed is that soap can saponify unevenly. For
instance, the middle of a batch of soap typically saponifies quicker, if gelled,
while the exterior edges don�t saponify as quickly. The top of a batch of soap
could be slightly more alkaline, as the water (which carries the lye) evaporates
out of the soap. Or in such cases of lye-heavy soaps, the lye solution or
undissolved lye crystals can concentrate in pockets or specific areas in the final
soap. Unless a soapmaker tests just the right area of the soap, they could come out
with a pH rating that ignores the presence of excess alkali.

Does this negate the usefulness of pH testing handmade soap? Yes and no!

It�s much easier to identify lye-heavy soaps through visual cues, like the presence
of liquid pockets or crystallization. If there is an unknown liquid or substances
seeping out of a soap, a pH test can help you identify if the liquid is lye
solution or separated oil, fragrance, or another additive. Using pH testing to
confirm a suspicion when troubleshooting handmade soap is the first step in knowing
how to correct it.

Essentially, if a soap tests as an abnormally high pH, then you know you need to
either neutralize or continue cooking the soap (in the case of liquid or hot
process soapmaking), or rebatch it (in the case of cold process soap). To
neutralize or rebatch soap, you must first figure out how much excess alkali is
present � either by reviewing your procedure (hence why it�s important to
check/calibrate your scale, detail your process, and use self-check measures to
ensure accuracy) or titration to measure alkalinity. Scientific Soapmaking and
Liquid Soapmaking are two books that detail the entire titration process!

Another way pH testing handmade soap can be useful is if you sell your soaps and
want to adhere to good manufacturing processes. Conducting a pH test is one of many
ways to conduct quality control, ensuring that your products fall within a specific
range of �normal�. However, pH testing should not be used as the sole quality
control measure, as it can be unreliable.

And finally, let�s be realistic here, pH testing your soap satisfies curiosity and
can be useful in understanding the chemistry behind saponification! If you ever get
the urge to make multiple soaps with single oils, pH test them during the curing
period every week to see how they change. Various saponified oils (and individual
fatty acids) have differing pH levels, and the pH does tend to slightly drop over
time.

The Do�s and Don�ts of pH Testing Handmade Soap

If you do want to pH test your soap, it�s important to start off on the right foot.
When I was in the process of researching this article, I came across tons of blog
posts and how-to videos out on the internet that gave instructions for pH testing
soap. Here�s a rundown on some of the most common instructions I found:

Using Tongue Testing or Zap Testing to Check Soap Alkalinity

An extremely common recommendation I found as a method of checking the soap pH is
to touch a bar of soap to your tongue. If touching the bar of soap to your tongue
zaps similar to touching your tongue to a battery, it indicates a soap is lye
heavy. Obviously, this doesn�t actually indicate the pH level of a soap, it simply
indicates the presence of free alkali.

I know plenty of soapmakers who use this method in their process, and while I won�t
argue its efficiency or efficacy, I will argue it�s safety. If a new soapmaker
comes across this advice and has not yet familiarized themselves with the
appearance of lye heavy soap, tongue testing could result in serious injury.

Just say "no" to tongue testing or zap testing!

Just say �no� to tongue testing or zap testing!
Additionally, if you are a soapmaker in business, tongue testing is a liability,
safety, and GMP (good manufacturing practices) nightmare. GMP encourages robust
testing and quality control among other processes, and while tongue testing
accomplishes the job, it is unhygienic and dangerous. If an employee sustains an
injury due to poor manufacturing practices, the liability falls on you, as the
owner and creator of the procedures and manufacturing process. No, thanks!

Using pH Strips to Test Soap pH

The next most common method of pH testing soap I found online was using pH strips.
Most of the tutorials and how-to instructions I came across were a variation of the
following:

Place water on the surface of the bar of soap.

Rub the water onto the soap until it lathers.
Dip the pH strip in the bubbles.
Check the pH strip against the chart included.
Using pH strips directly on a bar of soap can give you an inaccurate pH reading
that is so far off you might think your soap is neutral!
Using pH strips directly on a bar of soap can give you an inaccurate pH reading
that is so far off you might think your soap is neutral!
The first problem with pH strips is that the nature of soap interferes with the
indicator dyes used to manufacture the strips, which can throw the reading off by
several points. (In my testing, pH strips gave me a reading varying from a pH of 5
to a pH of 9 � a huge range!)

The second issue is that the process of putting water on the surface and rubbing it
until it lathers creates a huge variable. How much or how little soap is dispersed
in the water can affect the reading of the pH. None of the instructions detailed
creating a definitive solution containing a specific ratio of soap to water. Some
of the tutorials even negated specifying what kind of water to use! (As we
mentioned earlier, tap water can vary a lot and throw off the readings.)

If pH strips are all you�ve got and you are wildly curious about the pH of your
soap, using a specific solution and higher quality pH strips will help get some of
these variables under control. (We�ll talk about how to do that in a minute!) That
being said, using pH strips is not the most ideal method of checking a soap�s pH.

Using Phenolphthalein Drops to Test Soap pH

Phenolphthalein drops are most commonly recommended for testing liquid soap and hot
process soap during the cook to identify whether the soap is �done� or if the soap
needs to be neutralized. And while phenolphthalein drops can kind of serve that
purpose, most of the tutorials and instructions I found directed you to place the
drops directly on the soap. Pure soap, whether it�s liquid soap paste or hot
process soap, isn�t an aqueous solution and phenolphthalein drops, like other pH
testing methods, should be used in a solution.

Phenolphthalein drops should be using in a solution rather than directly on soap,

and can only tell you so much.
Phenolphthalein drops should be used in a solution rather than directly on soap,
and can only tell you so much.
The main issue with phenolphthalein drops is how they work as a pH indicator. When
added to a solution, phenolphthalein changes from clear to pink, depending on the
pH of the solution. The initial color change from colorless to pale pink happens at
a pH of 8.2, and deepens to a dark fuschia as the pH rises to 9.8. If used in a
solution with a higher pH, they remain bright deep pink.

Phenolphthalein drops indicate a solution's pH by changing from a colorless liquid

to a deep pink. The color indication ranges from a pH of 8.2 to 9.8, and does not
change outside of that range.
Phenolphthalein drops indicate a solution�s pH by changing from a colorless liquid
to a deep pink. The color indication ranges from a pH of 8.2 to 9.8, and does not
change outside of that range.
This color change can be useful if you are wanting to bring the pH of a product
below 8.2, which often requires the use of weak organic acid, such as citric acid.
It can also be useful to titrate a soap solution to measure alkalinity, which is
the case in common instructions for neutralizing liquid soaps.

However, pure soaps as a general rule have an alkaline pH, ranging from 8 to 10, so
phenolphthalein drops don�t necessarily indicate whether a soap is done cooking or
safe for use. A liquid soap with a pH of 8.1 and a liquid soap with a pH of 8.3
(which crosses the color indication line for phenolphthalein drops) isn�t going to
perform wildly different as a basic cleanser. Plus, a soap with a pH of 10 (which
is normal) will test exactly the same as a soap with a pH of 13 (which is not
normal.)

How to pH Test Handmade Soap

Now that we�ve talked about all the issues with pH testing soap, let�s get down to
business with how to pH test soap in the most ideal way.

To do this, let�s turn to a source for professional standards, ASTM International

(American Society for Testing and Materials International). They are an
international organization that develop and publish technical standards for a wide
range of materials, products, systems, and services. And luck would have it that
they have a standard for exactly what we need: ASTM D1172 � 15 (Standard Guide for
pH of Aqueous Solutions of Soaps and Detergents).

Now, I would guess that most of us do not have the fancy equipment that the
standard dictates (it recommends using a Fischer Accuphast combination electrode or
Orion Ross Sure Flow electrode), however, it is possible to follow the standards in
procedure relatively closely!

To put this to work, I�m sharing pH testing results using a variety of methods/pH
testers on a bar of soap that is three days old (relatively fresh, but should be
mostly saponified at this point). The bar of soap is from the middle of the loaf,
and partially gelled. There are no obvious signs of separation or excess alkali.

Here�s the list of pH testing materials:

Hydrion pH Paper with Dispenser and Color Chart � Full Range InstaChek (pH 0 to 13)
Hydrion Spectral Plastic pH Strips (pH 0.0 to 14.0)
Lab Rat Supplies Universal Indicator pH Paper Test Strips (pH 1 to 14)
Lab Rat Supplies Universal Plastic pH Test Strips (pH 0 to 14)
1% Phenolphthalein Solution
Universal pH Indicator Solution (Comes in a kit with phenolphthalein and
bromothymol blue, which I wanted for homeschooling!)
Apera Instruments AI209 PH20 Waterproof pH Tester
The first steps described in the standard is preparing the reagent, listing
distilled water or equivalent, by removing the carbon dioxide by boiling or purging
with carbon dioxide free air. The standard instructs to protect the distilled water
with soda-lime or soda-asbestos while cooling and in storage. The next steps in the
standard explain making a soap solution, and bringing it to an accurate temperature
for pH testing.

My goal here is to follow the standard as closely as possible while still being
practical for a handmade soapmaker, so let�s dive in:

First, I boiled my distilled water, which will serve two purposes: help eliminate
carbon dioxide and help dissolve the soap. Next, I shaved pieces of the soap from
the side of the bar, from top to bottom, using a paring knife, into a clean
disposable cup.

I�m aiming for a 1% soap solution, meaning 1% of the solution is soap and 99% of
the solution is distilled water. To make it easy, I weighed approximately 1 gram of
soap and 99 grams of distilled water on my American Weigh Scale (AWS-100). (I use
this scale more often for blending essential oils and other tiny tasks, it�s pretty
handy and affordable!)

Weigh 1 gram of soap for pH testing on a gram scale.

Weigh 1 gram of soap for pH testing on a gram scale.
Next, I added the distilled water, with a temperature reading of about 70� C (158�
F), to a glass mason jar and then added the soap shavings. (The distilled water is
still hot from boiling! As I mentioned, it was boiled directly beforehand.) Using a
mini-whisk, I stirred the solution until the soap dissolved.

A prepared 1% soap solution ready for pH testing!

A prepared 1% soap solution ready for pH testing!
The standards mention that you should conduct the pH test at 40� C (plus or minus
2� C), which is about 104� F and that the solution should be rapidly cooled. To do
so, I placed my mason jar is an ice bath and kept an eye on the temperature while I
prepared the pH testing materials.

Each one of the pH testing materials I used came with varying levels of
instructions for accurate readings, so I defaulted to each individual one for
instructions. For instance, some pH testing strips say to submerge the strip for 30
seconds while others say to �dip the strip� in the solution.

Here�s the results of pH testing my soap with various methods:

The Hydrion Paper Strips were obviously inaccurate, as we know that cold process
soap cannot naturally test at a pH of 7.
The Hydrion Paper Strips were obviously inaccurate, as we know that cold process
soap cannot naturally test at a pH of 7.
The Hydrion Plastic Strips were not any better (typically, plastic strips are
little bit better). It was impossible to determine if these strips were indicating
a pH of 5 or 6, but we know that neither is accurate.
The Hydrion Plastic Strips were not any better (typically, plastic strips are
little bit better). It was impossible to determine if these strips were indicating
a pH of 5 or 6, but we know that neither is accurate.
Lab Rat Supplies Paper Strips were realistically closer, reading a pH of 8.
However, since this soap is fresh, it should test higher.
Lab Rat Supplies Paper Strips were realistically closer, reading a pH of 8.
However, since this soap is fresh and contains the blend of oils that it does, it
should test higher.
The leader of the pack was found in Lab Rat Supplies Plastic Strips, which gave a
pH reading of 9, which seems both plausible and realistic for a fresh bar of
handmade soap.
The leader of the pack was found in Lab Rat Supplies Plastic Strips, which gave a
pH reading of 9, which seems both plausible and realistic for this bar of handmade
soap.
Even though phenolphthalein isn't very useful for pH testing, I did want to share
what it would look like if used. The color of this photo is little off, but the
solution definitely tested a relatively deep pink, as it should.
Even though phenolphthalein isn�t very useful for pH testing, I did want to share
what it would look like if used. The color of this photo is little off, but the
solution definitely tested a relatively deep pink, as it should.
Next, I wanted to try using an Universal Indicator solution to test handmade soap.
Like the other pH strips, this indicator has a range of pH 1 to 14, but the color
shift can sometimes be hard to differentiate.
Next, I wanted to try using an Universal Indicator solution to test handmade soap.
Like the other pH testing methods, this indicator has a range of pH 1 to 14, but
the color shift can sometimes be hard to differentiate.
The 1% soap solution tested as a pH of 10 using the Universal Indicator, which is
right where it should be! If you want to try a fun science experiment with your
kidlets, red cabbage juice is a universal pH indicator, too!
The 1% soap solution tested as a pH of 10 using the Universal Indicator, which is
right around where it should be. If you want to try a fun science experiment with
your kidlets, red cabbage juice is a universal pH indicator, too!
The Apera pH Meter tested exactly where I expect, with a reading of 9.6 to 9.9
depending on the temperature. This particular meter supposedly temperature
compensates, so I wanted to test that and it does a pretty good job.
The Apera pH Meter tested where I expect as well, with a reading of 9.6 to 9.9,
depending on the temperature. This particular meter supposedly temperature
compensates, so I wanted to test that and it seems to do a pretty good job.
Alright, so pH testing soap is all sorts of crazy�
After all this research and work, I have a few key takeaways about pH testing soap,
whether it�s cold process, hot process, or liquid soap. Here�s the quick hit list:
pH strips are terrible. Most of the pH strips I have used (both for this article
and in the past) have been wildly inaccurate. The good news is that lab-quality
plastic strips don�t seem to do too bad off a job, if your curiosity is killing
you.
pH testing soap is largely inaccurate. Bar soap, liquid soap paste, and hot process
soap are still just soap, and even when you make a soap solution, you are creating
a colloid (where tiny little soap molecules are suspended in water). Since pH
testing relies on an aqueous solution, it�s difficult to get an accurate reading
regardless of how you do it.
If you want to pH test your soap, some methods are more accurate than others. Both
the universal indicator and the inexpensive pH meter did a decent job of giving a
pH reading, especially when compared to the wide range of readings from pH strips.
If I had to choose one method of all the ones I�ve tested, I�d stick to the pH
meter (especially as it would be useful in lotion making.)
No matter the method, pH testing soap isn�t as useful as many soapmakers think it
is. Your soap�s pH doesn�t saying anything about how mild or gentle it is, since
it�s a wash-off product. While pH testing your soap can be helpful as a diagnostic
tool in the troubleshooting process, it shouldn�t be relied on as the sole method
of identifying problems with a batch.
Which brings us to the final takeaway: if your soap pH reads higher than it should,
give it time. I�ve witnessed too many soapmakers throw away batches of soap (both
liquid and bar soap) because their pH test came out with a 9, 10, or 11. Before you
make any drastic moves, give the soap a little time to finish doing it�s thing and
try, try again.
When it comes down to it, I know that soapmakers are going to pH test however they
prefer (including that pesky tongue test!) However, I hope by working through the
rundown on pH testing handmade soap, I�ve given you some food for thought and other
options. Leave a comment down below, and let me know if you learned anything new or
what you think!

Recommended Reading & Sources

PubMed: Personal cleanser technology and clinical performance; by Syed Abbas,

Jessica Weiss Goldberg and Michael Massaro (2004)
PubMed: The long-term use of soap does not affect the pH-maintenance mechanism of
human skin; by Takagi Y, Kaneda K, Miyaki M, Matsuo K, Kawada H, Hosokawa H (2015)
PubMed: Effects of soap and detergents on skin surface pH, stratum corneum
hydration and fat content in infants; by Gfatter R, Hackl P, Braun F (1997)
PubMed: A comparative study of the effects on the skin of a classical bar soap and
a syndet cleansing bar in normal use conditions and in the soap chamber test; by
Barel AO, Lambrecht R, Clarys P, Morrison BM Jr, Paye M (2001)
Influence of cleansing product type on several skin parameters after single use; by
Mirela Moldovan and Alina Nanu (2010)
The Effect of Detergent on Skin pH and Its Consequences; by Hans Christian Korting,
Otto Braun-Falco
Personal Care Truth (No longer updated, but the archives are great!)
Scientific Soapmaking: The Chemistry of the Cold Process by Kevin Dunn
Kevin Dunn�s website, which lists old lectures and white papers!

http://www.modernsoapmaking.com/how-to-ph-test-handmade-soap/