Car Care Companion Guide

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Your Car Care

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Finally, a car maintenance book for EVERYONE!
Your Car Care
C Y C
Companion
By Clint E. Hightower
COPYRIGHT
Your Car Care Companion
Published by Author 2015
Copyright © 2015 by Clint E. Hightower

All rights reserved
This book or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner
whatsoever without the express written permission of the copyright author except for
the use of brief quotations in a book review.
ISBN-13: 978-1517466947
ISBN-10: 1517466946
Title ID: 5755065
AUTHOR’S NOTE
The information in this book is true and complete to the best of the author’s knowledge.
All recommendations are made without any guarantee of safety or positive outcome on
the part of the author, editors, or publisher who also disclaim any liability incurred in
connection with the use of this data or specific details.
Every effort has been made to present accurate and reliable information. This book is
not a shop manual or a vehicle owner’s manual and is not a substitute for either. If you
are not comfortable performing any procedure outlined in this book, do not perform the
procedure, instead have your vehicle serviced by a licensed professional.
This publication has not been prepared or licensed by any vehicle manufacturer.
The author recognizes further that the words, model names, and designations mentioned
herein are the property of the trademark name holder(s) and are used for identification
purposes only. This is not an official publication.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction Chapter 5 - The Cooling System

About the Author ………………… 2 Cooling System Components…….44
Acknowledgements.……….………4 How the Cooling System Works…47
To the Reader .………….………...5 The Heater………………………..49
HOW IT WORKS Chapter 6 - The Lubrication System

Chapter 1 - The Engine System Components ……………..52
How Engines Generate Motion .….8 How the System Works…………..54
Parts of the Engine ………………10 Checking the Oil …………………55
How Power is Transmitted ………17
Chapter 7 - The Braking System
Timing Belts and Chains ……….. 18
Road Conditions …………………58
Chapter 2 - The Transmission
Tires ……………………………..59
Transmission Types …………….. 22
Brake Components …..……….60-62
Identifying Failure ……………… 24
Brake Fluid ………………………63
The Differential ………………….25
Brake Lights ……………………..66
Chapter 3 - Ignition and Charging
Emergency Brake….……………..67
Ignition Components …………… 28
Brake Fade ……………………68-72
Charging System…………….. 30-33
Chapter 8 - Safety First
Indications of Alternator Failure …31
Let Someone Know …………….. 75
Ignition System …………………. 34
Personal Protection ………….. 76-78
Chapter 4 - The Fuel System
Secure the Vehicle ……………78-80
Fuel System Diagram…………….37
Prepare for Emergencies………… 81
Fuel System Components….……..38
The Most Vulnerable Systems……82
Fuel System Plumbing …………. 40
TABLE OF CONTENTS
DO IT YOURSELF (DIY)
Chapter 9 - Checking Your Fluids Chapter 12 - Jump Starting a Car

Transmission Fluid…………..….. 86 Using a Battery Charger …….… 120
Gear Oil ………………………….87 Charging with a Second Car ……121
Coolant …………………………..88
Windshield Washer Fluid ………..89 Chapter 13 - Lights and Fuses
Power Steering Fluid……………..90 Changing Light Bulbs ……. 125-127
Brake / Clutch Fluid………..…90-91 Changing Fuses ……………128-129
Fuel ………………………………91
Chapter 14 - How to do a Tune-up
Chapter 10 - Changing Your Oil
Changing the Spark Plugs .. .134-138
Tools and Supplies ………………95
Cleaning the Throttle .…………..139
Choosing the Oil ……………….. 96
Servicing the EGR Valve ……....142
Raising the Vehicle …………….. 97
Ignition Contacts………………..144
Replacing the Oil and Filter…99-104
Clean Battery and Alternator …...145
Chapter 11 - Replacing the Battery Clean/Replace Air Filter ………..146
Removing the old Battery ……...107 Chapter 15 - How to Use a Jack
Servicing the New Battery ..……108 Before you Jack up a Car………..148
Installing the New Battery ……..109 The Hydraulic Jack…………149-150
Chapter 12 - Jump Starting a Car Using Floor and Scissor Jacks…. 151
Push Starting ………………….. 113
Portable Chargers ………………114
Jump Starting ………………115-119
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Do it Yourself (DIY) Tips and Maintenance Schedules
Chapter 16 - Changing a Tire Chapter 20 - Tips and Schedules

Secure the Vehicle …………….. 156 Tips ……………………..…202-205
Remove the Tire ………….. 157-158 Suggested Schedules ……....206-207
Install the Tire ……………. 158-159 Auto Parts Stores …………….....208
Understanding Tire Size…….….160 Common Spark Plug Conditions..209
Chapter 17 - Disk Brake Job Additional Reading.……………..210
Safety First …………………….. 163
Removing the Wheels …………..164 Appendix A: Basic Tools ………..211
Removing Brake Caliper …..165-166
Replacing Brake Pads …………..167 Appendix B: Glossary …………220
Reinstall Wheels and Lug Nuts…169
Chapter 18 - Drum Brake Job Index ……………………………. 228

Safety First …………………….. 173
Removing the Wheels …………..174 YouTube Video Index.………….. 235
Removing Brake Drum …….174-177
Replacing Brake Shoes ….…178-180
Chapter 19 - Troubleshooting
Combustion Requirements …183-191
Engine Configurations.……...….183
Brakes …………………………..193
Suspension …………………….. 196
YOUR CAR CARE COMPANION
www.ycccdiy.com
Welcome
to
Your Car Care
C Y
C
Companion
www.ycccdiy.com Introduction
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Clint Hightower earned a Bachelor of Science

degree in Mechanical Engineering Technology
from California State University at Sacramento.
Clint has worked as an aerospace
manufacturing engineer, a mechanical
engineering consultant, and as an automotive
engineer for the California Highway Patrol.
Clint has taught in both the Sacramento and Elk
Grove school districts. While in college, Clint
worked as an automotive and diesel mechanic,
and a math and physics tutor.
Clint has serviced, maintained, modified and

restored many vehicles, both foreign and
domestic, and he enjoys working on cars as a
hobby. Clint also enjoys driving cars and owns
a modified track car that he races at different
tracks around California. Bottom line, Clint
loves cars.
Over the years Clint has helped many

friends, family members, and co-
workers with car maintenance
information and repair issues. He has
also assisted some in becoming auto
mechanics themselves. This passion
for cars, teaching, and helping friends
and family with car problems inspired
Clint to write this book. He has
developed training classes to get
people started in learning how to
service and maintain their cars for
smooth, efficient, and safe operation.
2 Introduction www.ycccdiy.com
Some of my Fun Hobby Projects
Replacing Stock Exhaust with UUC stainless steel Installing new urethane subframe
free flow exhaust, and upgrading to urethane bushings, control arm bushings and
bushings. transmission mount bushings.
Helping a friend rebuild and replace the Replacing cylinder head after blowing it
engine in his Subaru turbo WRX just up at Thunder Hill race track.
because.
www.ycccdiy.com Introduction 3
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
During the process of writing this book, I received Nelson and Lori Kagimoto-Nelson and to Blair
a lot of help from many different people. Thank Chapman and Family for letting us use their
you to everyone who helped in any way, I truly beautiful properties for our photo shoot locations
appreciate each and every one of you. I am taking which ended up being the final picks for the front
this opportunity to specifically thank some of the and back covers. I appreciate your kind
people who truly went the extra mile to go above generosity and the gracious treatment our photo
and beyond to make this project a reality. shoot crew received while on location. I also thank
Thank you to Daniel Dumitrascuta, owner of the those who helped me with the actual writing of
Burlew Engineering and Manufacturing Company the book.
for his assistance with acquiring vehicles and

models for our cover photo shoot. Over the years,
in addition to being a successful businessman, First and foremost, a special thank you to my
Daniel has also been a good friend. A special beautiful wife Dr. Nichole Hightower. Thank you
thank you to our cover and video models Cristina for your help and support throughout this process.
Razumovsky, Sam Dumitrascuta, Mark Neeley, You have been right by my side the entire time
and Hayley Shelstad for being such great models helping in every aspect of this process from
proofreading, to editing, to photo shoots, to logo
development. I love you with all my heart and
want you to know that this would not have been
possible without your support. Additionally, for
their help and encouragement, I thank: my
daughter, Wendy Hightower for assistance with
logo development and modeling. For
proofreading and editing, a special thank you to
my brother, Bart Hightower, Attorney, and my
Mother-in-Law, Juarenita Gross. For
and for being so easy to work with. Thank you to proofreading and encouragement, thank you to
Therese Schultz, Project Implementor of Always my cousin, Foluso Afolabi and my father,
Learning, Elk Grove Adult & Community Lieutenant commander Frank Hightower.
Education, for her encouragement and Without all of you I would not have had the ability
suggestions. I am extremely grateful to Wayne or incentive to complete this project. I dedicate
R. Dempsey of Pelican Parts for illustration and this book to you.
photography tips. My sincere gratitude to Craig
4 Introduction www.ycccdiy.com
TO THE READER
Hello, and thank you for purchasing my book. they do not conflict with your vehicle’s
I think it is awesome that you have decided to manufacturer recommendations and with the
learn the basics about how your car operates and advice of a certified mechanic.
how to perform some of the basic service and
maintenance tasks necessary to keep your car Learning the simple tasks outlined in this book
running safely and efficiently. In this guide you will NOT make you a mechanic! The “Safety
will learn how to be safe when working on a car, First” chapter discusses minimum precautions
how the different systems in the car work, and you must take to help maintain your safety and the
how to perform some of the tasks yourself. You safety of others. As you read the procedure
will also get tips on how to communicate with chapters, refer to the “Safety First” chapter as
your mechanic about tasks you would rather often as necessary to review safety considerations
have a professional perform for you. and to help you maintain minimum safety
standards. Always consult and follow the
If you are a beginner who wants to learn about manufacturer’s recommendations. Follow them
car safety, systems, and DIY maintenance over any conflicting suggestions in this book. If
procedures, you have purchased the right book. at any time you are unsure of how to do something
You can learn a lot and potentially save money or feel uncomfortable performing any task, take
as you develop the skills demonstrated in this your car to a certified and trusted mechanic.
book. Please be sure to watch all of the safety videos
associated with this chapter on YouTube; search
When I first started writing this book, it was for CCCSafety100, 200, 300, 400 etc.
my daughter, family and friends, and co-workers
who asked for help with their car problems. I
wanted to put together, in one place, as much
core information as I could to help the people I
care about. It is information that can help you
make your car safer to drive. It can save you
time, money, and can potentially save your life.
My easy to understand way of explaining car
care is now available to you in this book.
The most important topic in this guide is

safety! This book is intended to be used as a
guide by the non-mechanic to teach the basics
of how a car works and how to perform basic If there is ever a conflict between this book and
vehicle maintenance. This book is generic in your manufacturer’s recommended procedure,
nature and does not refer to any specific vehicle, follow the manufacturer’s recommendation.
but does apply to most internal combustion and If you do not feel confident performing a task, do
gasoline-driven vehicles. It is a collection of not perform the task. Instead, consult a certified
suggested methods to be used only as long as mechanic. Again, thank for purchasing this book.
www.ycccdiy.com Introduction 5
Chapter 1
The
Engine
Chapter 1
How the Engine Works YouTube Video Code

CCCHOW100
HOW THE ENGINE GENERATES VEHICLE MOTION
A car generates motion in very much the and gears are the bike’s transmission.
same way that a person riding a bicycle When force is applied to the pedals, it is
generates motion. The mechanisms used transferred to the chain and gears which,
to accomplish forward motion are in turn, transfer the force to the wheels.
different, but the principles are the same. The wheels then apply force to the road
A bicycle is powered by a person applying propelling the bike forward.
force to the pedals and cranks. The chain
The car generates motion by using an engine for power instead of a person. The engine
provides power and applies force to the gears in the transmission. The transmission
applies force to the wheels, and the wheels apply force to the ground propelling the car
forward.
engine driveshaft
Here is an example of a car’s tires
drivetrain which consists of
the engine, transmission,
driveshaft, differential, road
and tires.
transmission
8 The Engine www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 1
THE DIFFERENTIAL
The differential changes the direction of a drive pinion, slider gears, and a ring gear.
rotation of the engine by 90 degrees to the These gears need to be lubricated just like
direction of rotation of the wheels. To do the manual transmission and can sometimes
this the differential has gears inside; mainly be serviced with the same gear oil.
axles wheel
rotation
driveshaft to
transmission
differential
engine rotation
universal joint
or
u-joint
Driveshaft to Differential
www.ycccdiy.com The Engine 9

Chapter 1
THE PARTS OF AN ENGINE
The parts that comprise an engine can be divided into three sections:
combustion
valves chambers
1. The Cylinder Head
2. The Engine Block

(cylinder head removed)
3. The Engine Components
10 The Engine www.ycccdiy.

Chapter 1
THE CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder head on an engine does literally to breathe for the engine. The
essentially the same thing that your head cylinder head sits on top of the engine block
does; it sits on top of the power generating with two sets of valves facing into each of
body and breathes. That’s right, the the combustion chambers in the block; one
primary function of the cylinder head is set to breathe in, one set to breathe out.
cylinder head; located on top of engine block
(Breathes for the engine)
exhaust
valves
(air out)
intake
valves spark plug
(air in)
The cylinder head is usually a block of steel valves and exhaust valves. The intake
or aluminum with valves in it lined up in valves are opened at specific times by lobes
rows along its length. The valves allow air on the camshafts to allow the air and fuel
into the combustion chamber and exhaust into the combustion chamber. Then all of
gases out of the combustion chamber after the valves close and the spark plug sparks
the fuel and air have been burned. The ignite the fuel. After the fuel has burned,
valves in the cylinder head are grouped into the exhaust valves open and let the exhaust
two sets. These valve sets are called intake gas out into the exhaust pipe.

Chapter 1
THE CYLINDER HEAD IN RELATION TO THE ENGINE BLOCK
The valves are mounted in the cylinder are turned by a timing belt or timing chain
head. They are opened and closed by the which is connected to the crankshaft. The
camshafts which can be mounted in the crankshaft is inside of the engine block.
block or on the cylinder head depending The timing belt or chain controls the timing
on the design configuration. The camshafts between the crankshaft and the camshafts.
cylinder head camshafts
camshaft
sprocket
timing
belt
crankshaft
sprocket

Chapter 1
THE CYLINDER HEAD IN RELATION TO THE ENGINE BLOCK
The cylinder head is bolted to the top of the When the intake valves in the cylinder
engine block. The engine block is a large head open they allow air and fuel into the
block of metal with large holes drilled into cylinders in the engine block.
it called cylinders. These cylinders are the When the exhaust valves in the cylinder
combustion chambers where the air and fuel head open they allow the burned exhaust
mixture is burned. The cylinders have gases out of the cylinders in the engine
pistons in them which are connected to the block.
crankshaft by connecting rods.
camshafts
fuel injector
exhaust intake
cylinder
intake head
valve
exhaust
valve
spark plug
combustion engine
chamber block
piston
piston connecting rod

Chapter 1
THE ENGINE BLOCK
The engine block houses the combustion chambers which are round cylinders lined up
in a row along the length of the block. The block also houses the crankshaft. The
crankshaft runs through the center of the block from front to back and is turned by the
cranking force of pistons. The pistons are moved down by the force of the explosions
of the air and fuel after being ignited by the spark plug which then explodes in the
combustion chamber.
intake exhaust
valve valve
combustion
chamber
piston
connecting rod
crankshaft inside engine block

Chapter 1
ENGINE BLOCK TYPES AND CONFIGURATIONS

There are several different arrangements of combustion chambers. Engines are
sometimes referred to by the arrangement of the chambers. Examples of combustion
chamber arrangement types include 4-cylinder, Straight-6, Slant-6, V-6, V-8, Flat-4,
Flat-6 and so on.
V-6
4-cylinder
crankshaft crankshaft
crankshaft
V-8
flat-4
straight-6

Chapter 1
THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER
spark plug
intake valve
exhaust valve
combustion
piston chamber
Combustion of the air and fuel causes the pistons to go down with force very fast. The
pistons force the piston rods to rotate the crankshaft. The crankshaft runs through the
center of the engine block and has a flywheel connected at the rear end. The flywheel
transfers the motion from the engine to the transmission.
pistons
piston rod
crank
Pulley flywheel
(harmonic
balancer)
`
crankshaft
The crank pulley or harmonic balancer is connected to the front end of the
crankshaft. The flywheel is connected to the back end of the crankshaft.

Chapter 1
HOW ENGINE POWER IS TRANSMITTED
The starter cranks the flywheel to start components that the crankshaft pulley
the engine. The crankshaft is connected turns include the alternator, power
to the flywheel. The flywheel connects steering pump, water pump, and the air
the engine to the transmission. The conditioning compressor. The power
crankshaft pulley powers all auxiliary used to turn these components reduces
engine components by turning them with the available horsepower that the engine
fan belts or serpentine belts. The engine can transmit to the wheels.
pistons
engine
transmission
shift
lever
starter
crankshaft
crankshaft pulley flywheel

(harmonic balancer)

Chapter 1
TIMING BELTS VS TIMING CHAINS
As mentioned earlier, engines may have the Timing belts are made of different synthetics,
camshafts mounted in the engine block or on the rubbers, and polymer materials and need to be
cylinder head. Engines may be designed with a replaced at least every 80 thousand miles. Failure
timing belt or a timing chain. Usually when the to change the timing belt can result in timing belt
camshaft is located in the engine block, the failure. In some vehicles the failure of a timing
engine has a timing chain. When the camshafts belt may result in severe to catastrophic engine
are located in the cylinder heads the engine could damage.
have a timing chain or a timing belt. Below are
examples of a timing chain and a timing belt.
Changing or adjusting the timing chain or timing
belt is beyond the scope of this book and will not
be covered. The main difference between timing
chains and timing belts is that timing chains are
metal and generally do not need to be replaced.
timing belt
timing chain
timing belt
timing belt
Chapter 1
SERPENTINE DRIVE BELTS (AKA FAN BELTS)
There are four main belt-driven components on a typical internal combustion engine:
1. the alternator
2. the air conditioning compressor
3. the power steering pump
4. the water pump
These components, with exception of the others it is driven by the timing belt. It is
water pump, are almost always powered important to understand how these
by a serpentine belt that is driven by the components function in a car. This will
crankshaft pulley. In some cars the water help you identify failures and how to
pump is driven by a serpentine belt and in determine if it is a belt or a component.
THE ALTERNATOR
The alternator supplies electricity that:
1. fires the spark plugs

2. runs auxiliary systems such as the radio or lights
3. recharges the battery after the battery is used to start the car or run auxiliary systems
If the alternator fails or the serpentine belt weaker the car will become harder to start,
breaks, and is no longer turning the one of the headlights may become dimmer
alternator, the car will continue to run for than the other, and the car will eventually
a while, but it will be running off of the stop running. The battery will be too weak
battery rather than the electricity generated to power the starter to crank the engine.
by the alternator. As the battery gets
THE AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR
The air conditioning compressor conditioning compressor breaks, you will

compresses the refrigerant so that it can not get cold air out of your air
be used for cooling in the air conditioning conditioning system.
system. If the belt that turns the air

Chapter 1
THE POWER STEERING PUMP
The power steering pump supplies hard to turn. It will almost be as if the
hydraulic force to reduce the effort steering wheel is locking up. It is not
required to turn the steering wheel. If the locking up, you can steer manually without
belt turning the power steering pump fails, power assistance, it simply takes more
steering will suddenly become stiff and effort.
THE WATER PUMP
The water pump circulates the coolant timing belt and whether the belt broke or
from the radiator around the engine, back the pump failed. If your pump is driven
to the radiator to be cooled, then back to by a serpentine belt and the belt breaks,
cool the engine continuously to keep the you can probably just replace the belt to
engine from overheating. If the belt that restore proper function. If the pump itself
turns the water pump fails, the car will has failed, you will need to replace it as
start to overheat very quickly! You should well. If your pump is driven by the timing
stop the car immediately as soon as it is belt, replacement is more complicated and
safe to do so and turn the engine off! It more expensive. If the water pump in your
only takes a few minutes for an engine to car is driven by the timing belt, you should
overheat when it is not being cooled by always have the timing belt and the water
the cooling system. pump replaced whenever there is a failure
of either the timing belt or the water pump.
It is important to know whether your water
pump is turned by a serpentine belt or a

The
Transmission
Chapter 2
YouTube Video Code

How the Transmission Works
CCCHOW500
BASIC TRANSMISSION TYPES
automatic manual or stick

The job of both the automatic and manual torque converter, a hydraulic control unit,
transmission is to change gears when and a computer to control the hydraulic
necessary to keep the load on the engine valve body. These components are used
and the engine speed within a range that for changing gears. The specific
will allow the engine to operate most configuration will vary depending on the
efficiently. The automatic transmission design of the transmission. The gears of a
uses precisely engineered components manual transmission are changed by the
such as special transmission fluids, a driver.
hydraulic valve body transmission fluid torque converter
22 The Transmission www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 2
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
There is very little service or maintenance that a beginner can do on an automatic
transmission. The following are suggestions of what you can do to help maintain the
health of your transmission:
Make sure the transmission fluid and filter are clean by changing them or having them
changed every 3-5 years (or as your vehicle manufacturer recommends).
clean transmission fluid dirty transmission fluid
Check the fluid level and keep a lookout whether the engine is hot or cold when
for leaks on the ground under the car. If you check the transmission fluid.
you decide to add fluid, do it slowly in Transmission fluid expands significantly
small amounts, re-checking each time. as it heats up so be sure to use the correct
Adding transmission fluid is easy, but set of markings on your dipstick for hot or
removing it if you add too much is much cold measuring.
more work. It makes a big difference
Full hot
Full cold
Low hot
Warning: Having too much Low cold

fluid in your transmission can
damage it.
www.ycccdiy.com The Transmission 23

Chapter 2
IDENTIFYING TRANSMISSION FAILURE
If you notice the car jerking, lurching, or mend against trying to work on the
the engine runs but the car will not move, transmission yourself. The transmission
you could have a transmission or is very complex. Have it checked by a
differential problem. I strongly recom- qualified professional mechanic.
If the clutch pedal starts to feel spongy, have the clutch master cylinder, slave
cylinder and hydraulic fluid condition checked by a qualified mechanic.
clutch fluid reservoir
(same as brake fluid)
clutch master cylinder
clutch pedal
clutch slave cylinder Note: The slave cylinder usually goes

bad before the master cylinder. If the
condition of the clutch fluid is cloudy
it could be an indication that the
rubber seals in one of the cylinders
has degraded or failed and that the
cylinder needs to be replaced.
24 The Transmission www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 2
DIFFERENTIAL SERVICE
The differential changes the direction of a drive pinion, slider gears and a ring gear.
rotation of the engine by 90 degrees to the These gears need to be lubricated just like
direction of rotation of the wheels. To do the manual transmission and can sometimes
this the differential has gears inside, mainly be serviced with the same gear oil.
removing differential drain plug filling differential with gear oil

axles
wheel
rotation
engine rotation
engine
differential
driveshaft
universal
transmission joint
Vehicle Drivetrain
www.ycccdiy.com The Transmission 25
Chapter 3
Chapter 3
The Ignition and Charging YouTube Video Code

Systems CCCHOW200
THE COMPONENTS OF THE IGNITION SYSTEM
The ignition and charging systems work together and are interconnected with each other.
The term “ignition” means to ignite or light on fire. The job of the ignition system is to
light or ignite the fuel to cause a controlled explosion in the combustion chamber. The
ignition process starts with the ignition switch. The ignition switch is the key you turn
or button you press to start the car.
1. The ignition switch or key. The ignition switch has three positions:
1. of 2. on 3. start
When the key is turned to the “on” position, the
battery and alternator are turned on. When the key
is turned to the start position, the starter cranks the
engine. Once you let go of the key it returns
automatically to the “on” position allowing the car
to run. Push button starts do the same thing
2. The battery. automatically.
The primary function of the battery is to crank the starter to start

the engine. The battery stores a small amount of electricity for
running the radio, lights and other appliances for a short period of
time when the engine is not running. After being used, the battery
is recharged by the alternator.
3. The starter. The starter cranks the engine to start the car. The starter receives
electricity from the battery. The starter has a solenoid that pushes
the small pinion gear on the end of its shaft out to engage the
flywheel on the engine. When the key is released, the solenoid
pulls the gear back away from the engine’s flywheel. Once the
engine starts, the starter disconnects from the engine and turns off.
The starter has no other function than to start the car.
28 Ignition and www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 3
THE COMPONENTS OF THE IGNITION SYSTEM
4. The alternator.
The alternator generates the electricity the car needs
to run and it recharges the battery until the battery is
fully charged, then it stops. The alternator is turned
by a serpentine belt . The serpentine belt is turned by
the crankshaft pulley once the engine starts to run.
5. The ignition coil(s).

The ignition coil receives low voltage from
the alternator and multiplies it to create high
voltage. High voltage is delivered to the spark
plugs so that the spark plugs can produce a strong
ignition spark.
6. The distributor cap and engine control unit (ECU) or computer.
Some cars have a distributor cap controlled

ignition, some cars have a computer controlled
ignition. The distributor and the computer do
the same thing within the ignition system. They
determine the correct instant to deliver the
charge from the coil to the spark plugs.
distributor cap ECU
7. The spark plugs. The spark plugs deliver a high voltage spark to the
combustion chamber at just the right instant to ignite the
compressed air and fuel mixture inside the combustion
chambers. They receive the electric charge from the
ignition coil.
www.ycccdiy.com Ignition and Charging 29

Chapter 3
COMPONENTS OF THE CHARGING SYSTEM
1. The battery. 2. The alternator.
The charging system consists of the battery and the alternator. The battery discharges
stored electricity to crank the starter and start the engine and the alternator recharges the
battery when the engine is running. Although the battery and the alternator are used
within the ignition system, they are also components of the charging system.
Fuse box
Ground
Ignition switch
30 Ignition and Charging www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 3
INDICATIONS OF ALTERNATOR FAILURE
● Engine turns over slowly (difficulty starting car)

● Car suddenly loses power while driving
● One headlight brighter that the other!!!
● Lights dim while car is running
● Multiple lights in instrument panel lighting for no apparent reason
one headlight brighter instrument panel lights may

than the other come on if alternator is failing
alternator
The battery can provide the electricity needed to run the car until it runs out of
charge. Once all the electricity in the battery has been used, the engine will stop
running. Ultimately, the alternator must be replaced. If the battery has been run
too low, it may be damaged and also need to be replaced.

Chapter 3
THE CHARGING SYSTEM
1 Alternator
Battery
Full Battery 3
2
Recharging
Battery Engine
Starter
Battery cranks The alternator recharges battery
starter to start car and feeds the engine’s ignition
system.
Think of the battery in the charging system as a pitcher. If the battery is never recharged it will
pitcher of water and the alternator as a water eventually run out of electricity and die. This is
faucet. When you turn the key to start the engine, where the alternator comes in. The alternator is
a portion of the stored electricity in the battery is like a water faucet; it generates electricity
“poured” out to power the starter and start the continuously just like a water faucet can produce
car. Each time you start the car, some of the water continuously. Once the car is running, the
electricity is used from the battery. Essentially it alternator sends electricity back to the battery and
is like pouring small cups of water out of a full refills or recharges it.
Notes: 1. If the alternator fails, the electricity needed to run the car will come from the battery and
the car will run for a while. Once the battery runs out of electricity, the engine will stop
running. The alternator will need to be replaced and battery recharged. If the car runs
on the battery for too long, the battery could be permanently damaged requiring it to be
replaced as well.
2. If you leave your headlights on after you park or try to start your car too many times
without success, the battery will eventually run out of electricity and die.

Chapter 3
HOW THE CHARGING SYSTEM WORKS
When you turn the key to the “start” position, electricity stops flowing to the
position in the ignition or push the ignition starter but continues to flow from the
button to start your car, the switch closes alternator to the ignition coils. The coil(s)
the circuit between the battery and the increase the voltage used to fire the spark
starter. This causes the solenoid to engage plugs. Depending on the design of your
the starter with the flywheel to crank and vehicle’s ignition system, either the
turn the engine over to start it. When the distributor or the engine computer “tell”
key is released and returns to the “on” the spark plugs exactly when to spark.
1
5
The ignition switch connects
the battery to the starter. While the engine is running, the alternator
produces electricity to power the ignition
system and replenishes the battery.
C
YCC
4
2
The battery stores a small amount of

electricity for powering the starter.
Once the engine is started, it

cranks the alternator causing it
When the starter receives electricity,
to generate electricity.
it cranks the engine to start it.

Chapter 3
HOW THE IGNITION SYSTEM WORKS
Initially when the key is turned and the power coming from the alternator or
engine turns over, the battery is supplying battery. It shows how the power can come
the electricity to the coil(s) which fire the from the battery in the event that the
spark plugs until the engine starts running. alternator stops producing power or when
Once the engine is running the alternator the car is not running.
produces more voltage than the battery and
The diagrams also show the layout of the
takes over supplying the required electricity.
single coil and multi coil ignition systems
The diagrams below show that when the and how they distribute boosted voltage to
ignition switch is turned off it disconnects the spark plugs.
If the alternator fails, electricity
will go from the battery to the coil(s).
alternator alternator distributor

computer
coil
battery coils battery
spark plugs
spark plugs
on off on
off
start start
ignition switch off ignition switch off
multi-coil ignition system single coil ignition system

The Fuel
System
Chapter 4
The Fuel System YouTube Video Code

CCCHOW900
The typical return fuel system consists of several components. Most of us are familiar
with and know how to pump gas into out cars, but what do we know about what
happens to the fuel after we pump it?
pumping gas at the gas station
After we pump our gas, we turn the key and hear a humming sound. This is the fuel
pump pumping gas to the fuel filter then through the supply lines to the fuel injectors.
Connected to the supply line is the fuel pressure regulator that only allows so much
pressure to build up in the fuel lines, any excessively pressurized fuel is diverted back
to the fuel tank to be pumped through the system again. Now let’s take a closer look
at each component of the system.
36 Fuel System www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 4
FUEL SYSTEM DIAGRAM
The diagram below shows a typical configuration that is used in many internal
combustion engines. Although there are different configurations, all internal
combustion gasoline engines have a system that performs the same job of each
component in the diagram below.
fuel supply line vacuum

fuel return line
fuel pressure
gas gauge regulator
gas cap
fuel filter
fuel injectors
fuel sending
unit
fuel pump
fuel pump screen fuel tank
Typical Return Electronic Fuel Injection
Let’s take a closer look at each part individually and discuss its function and how it
operates with the other components in the system. As you read about each part, refer
back to this diagram to gain a better understanding of how the system works.
www.ycccdiy.com Fuel System 37

Chapter 4
FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS
1. Gas Cap
The gas cap is a component of the fuel system that most people are familiar with, but do
they know how it works?
The gas cap basically serves three purposes:
1. Keeps the fuel system sealed so that dangerous

fumes do not escape into the atmosphere.
2. Keeps contaminants from entering the fuel tank.
3. Maintains pressure for the evaporative emissions
or (EVAP) system. gas cap
The seal that the gas cap maintains is monitored by the car’s onboard data (OBD) system
which will activate the check engine light and produce an error code if the seal is not
maintained. If the gas cap is not sealing correctly, the car will not pass smog. Usually
the solution to a non-sealing gas cap is to replace the gas cap.
2. Fuel Tank
The fuel tank contains the gas, the fuel sending
unit, and sometimes the fuel pump.
The fuel tank is usually made of plastic or
metal and is usually located under the car
towards the back. It can also be located under
the car in the middle, in the trunk, and even
toward the front in some vehicles. Keeping plastic gas tank
your tank clean is important. The best way to
do this is to use quality fuel from reputable gas
stations such as Shell, Exxon, 76, and similar
stations that replace their fuel frequently.
metal gas tank

Chapter 4
FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS
3. Fuel Sending Unit
The fuel sending unit is located inside the fuel tank. It measures the amount of fuel in the
tank and displays the value on the gas gauge to let you know how much fuel you have.
Some fuel sending units include the electric fuel pumps. If the fuel pump is the mechanical
type, the pump will not be in the gas tank with the sending unit. It will many times be
bolted to the outside of the engine block or cylinder head so that its’ lever arm can be
pumped by a cam lobe inside the engine.
Fuel Pump sending unit

Fuel Pump sending unit
and fuel pump assembly
4. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump pumps fuel to the fuel A fuel pump screen is usually attached to
injectors. There are two configurations of the electric fuel pumps to keep dirt out of
fuel pumps on gas powered cars, the pump. All fuel pumps send fuel through
mechanical and electrical. The mechanical the fuel filter which prevents the injectors
fuel pump is driven by a cam lobe pumping from getting clogged by delivering clean
a lever arm. The electrical fuel pump runs filtered fuel to the fuel injectors.
on electricity and is driven by an electric
motor.
cam lobe
lever arm
electric fuel pumps mechanical fuel pumps

Chapter 4
FUEL SYSTEM PLUMBING
5. Fuel Lines
There are two sets of fuel lines, the supply line and the return line. The fuel pump sends
the fuel through the supply line which carries the fuel to the fuel injectors. The return
lines carry the fuel that exceeds the required fuel pressure back to the fuel tank. Some
vehicles have a non-return fuel system, detailing these systems is beyond the scope of
this book.
supply line from fuel pump to fuel injectors
fuel filter
return line
back to fuel tank fuel injectors
6. Fuel Injectors
The fuel injectors are electronic solenoid a fine misty spray of atomized fuel.
valves that open and close very quickly When an injector gets clogged, the fuel
and spray fuel into the combustion comes out in a stream or not at all because
chamber cylinders to fuel the engine. The it is partially or completely blocked. This
injectors open at precise times controlled can cause rough idle, poor gas mileage
by the vehicle’s computer. When and hard starts.
operating correctly, the injectors deliver
fuel injector clogged or

electronic solenoid failing fuel injector operating correctly

Chapter 4
FUEL PRESSURE
7. Fuel Pressure Regulator controlled by the fuel pressure regulator.

The fuel pressure regulator is a valve that This ensures that the correct fuel pressure
is set to open at a certain pressure and allow is available for the fuel injectors at all
fuel to be released into the return line and times. The fuel pressure regulator remains
back to the fuel tank. This limits how closed until the maximum fuel pressure is
much pressure the fuel pump can build up reached. Once the maximum fuel pressure
in the fuel lines. The fuel pressure is reached the regulator opens until the fuel
increases until operating pressure is pressure drops down below the maximum
reached. The fuel injectors are connected allowed limit and allows the excess fuel to
to the fuel supply line which is flow back to the gas tank through the fuel
return line.
different fuel pressure regulator
fuel pressure regulators on vehicles

Chapter 5
Cooling System
Chapter 5
The Cooling System YouTube Video Code

CCCHOW300
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS
When the car is moving, air moves

over the radiator and removes the
1. moving air heat from the coolant. The coolant
circulates continuously from the
radiator to the engine to keep the
engine cool.
The radiator fan is switched on by a

temperature activated fan switch when
the engine reaches a certain temperature.
2. radiator fan (s) The fan blows air across the radiator to
remove the heat from the coolant when
the car is not moving.
The radiator has thin walled tubes that

the coolant flows through. These thin
3. radiator walls allow the coolant to easily release
heat to the surrounding air.
44 Cooling System www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 5
4. radiator hoses The radiator hoses carry the coolant

back and forth from the engine to the
radiator.
5. radiator cap The radiator cap maintains the correct

pressure within the cooling system to
allow the coolant to reach and maintain
the required temperature without boiling
and turning to steam.
The thermostat is a valve that opens at

6. thermostat around 180 to 200 degrees Fº
depending on the engine. The thermostat
does not allow coolant to flow until the
engine has heated the coolant to the correct
operating temperature. The
thermostat then gradually opens as much as
is necessary to allow the amount of
coolant needed to flow to maintain the
correct operating temperature.
www.ycccdiy.com Cooling System 45

Chapter 5
The water pump forces the coolant

7. water pump through the engine and cylinder head
then through the radiator for cooling.
Hot coolant circulates through the

8. heater core heater core. A fan blows air across
the heater core and into the vehicle
cabin to warm occupants.
The coolant carries the heat from the

9. coolant engine to the radiator. Coolant is better
than water for controlling engine
temperature because it boils at a higher
temperature.
10. cylinder head and engine water jacket

engine water jacket
The water jacket is a hollow

cavity that surrounds the engine
block. Coolant circulates through
the water jacket of the cylinder
head and engine block to keep
the engine operating at the
correct temperature.

Chapter 5
HOW THE COOLING SYSTEM WORKS
The cooling system starts to work as perature. Usually it takes about 5 to 10
soon as you start the car. The water minutes for the coolant to be hot enough
pump starts to turn when the engine turns to open the thermostat. The normal oper-
over. The water pump tries to circulate ating temperature will vary depending
the coolant around the engine, however, on the vehicle design, outside air temper-
the thermostat does not yet allow the ature, and driving conditions. Normal
coolant to flow around the engine until operating temperature range is from
the engine has run long enough to heat about 180 to 230 degrees Fahrenheit.
the coolant to the correct operating tem-
1
4 Engine
Water Pump 2
Thermostat
3
Radiator
heat removed
Radiator from coolant
Fan
cool air
Once the coolant has reached the correct running too hot or too cool. Once the
operating temperature, the thermostat coolant is flowing around the engine, the
opens allowing coolant to flow. It only water pump pushes it through the
opens as much as is necessary to allow engine’s water jacket past the thermostat,
enough coolant to flow to the engine to through the radiator, and back to the
maintain the correct operating engine’s water jacket. The water pump
temperature. It keeps the engine from circulates the coolant continuously.
Chapter 5
HOW THE COOLING SYSTEM WORKS
The coolant is cooled in the radiator by the radiator cap maintains a high pressure in
moving air as you drive. It is also cooled the cooling system so that a higher
by the cooling/radiator fan(s) when the car temperature can be maintained without
is not moving. One of the most important boiling the coolant; this allows the
components of the cooling system that thermostat to do its job of maintaining
works with the thermostat, and is often that temperature.
overlooked, is the radiator cap. The
Radiator Cap
Water pump
Hot Thermostat
Water Jacket
Cool

Chapter 5
THE HEATER
Water Pump Heater Core

The cooling system for the engine is also water hoses branch off of the main coolant
the heating system for the vehicle’s circuit and supply the small heater core.
occupants. The water pump not only Mounted behind the heater core is a fan or
pushes coolant through the water jacket, blower. The fan or blower pushes air over
but also circulates the coolant through the the tiny radiator heater core to provide heat
heater core. The heater core is a tiny to the interior of the vehicle for the
radiator under the dash of the car. Small occupants.
Hot
Water Pump
Notes: Cool
1. If your car is overheating while on the road, you can turn your heater on high to
help reduce the heat in your engine until you can stop. It is always best to pull over
and stop the engine of a car that is overheating as soon as it is safe to do so. Once
an engine starts to overheat, it only takes a few seconds of driving to completely
destroy the engine.
2. If the radiator cap fails, there will be a reduction of pressure in the cooling
system. A reduction of pressure in the system will allow water to be forced out
around the radiator cap seal and into the overflow tank. When there is not enough
water in the radiator, the car will overheat. If your car is constantly losing water
and/or overheating, simply changing the radiator cap might solve the problem,
Chapter 6
Lubrication
System
Chapter 6
YouTube Video Code

Engine Lubrication System
CCCHOW400
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM COMPONENTS
1. The engine oil
The engine oil lubricates

the engine allowing the
parts to slide against each
other smoothly. This
reduces friction wear
prolonging the life of the
engine.
2. The oil pump
The oil pump circulates

the oil throughout the
engine to keep all of the
parts lubricated.
3. The oil filter

The oil filter captures
any foreign particles that
get into the oil, removing
them from circulation to
protect the engine.
52 Lubrication www.ycccdiy.com
Chapter 6
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM COMPONENTS
4. The oil pan and drain plug

The oil pan is a container
that is bolted to the bottom
of the engine block. This
is where the oil supply is
collected to be pumped
throughout the engine.
The drain plug is how the
oil is released when it’s
time to change the oil.
5. The oil journals

Journals are the
pathways which oil
travels through to reach
remote parts of the
engine.
6. Dip-stick; measures oil level

The dip stick is used to
measure the a mount of
oil that is in the oil pan.
www.ycccdiy.com Lubrication 53
Chapter 6
HOW THE LUBRICATION SYSTEM WORKS
The job of the oil in the engine is to reduce engine. The extra oil is used to assist in
friction and heat. The oil bathes the parts cooling the engine in addition to
to make the parts slippery when they rub lubricating it.
against each other. This protects the parts
and prolongs their life. The lubrication system works similarly to
the cooling system. The oil pump
The lubrication of the engine is just as circulates the oil by pumping it up from the
important if not more important than the oil pan through journals that distribute the
cooling system. Some vehicles require oil through the engine block and cylinder
more oil than is needed for lubricating the head.
oil journal
oil filter
oil
oil pump oil pan
oil pump screen
The Lubrication System
54 Lubrication www.ycccdiy.com
Chapter 6
HOW TO CHECK YOUR OIL
After the oil has been pumped throughout the oil pan for an accurate reading. Pull the
the engine, it drains back down through the dip-stick out once to clean it off, replace
engine and collects in the oil pan to be the dipstick and remove it a second time to
distributed again. Over time the oil breaks take the actual reading.
down, gets dirty, and needs to be replaced.
The oil filter removes small particles of
contamination. The oil filter should be
changed when the oil is changed. The
dip-stick is used to measure the amount of
oil in the oil pan. When you pull the
dip-stick out to observe the oil level, keep
the tip of the dip-stick pointing down so
that the oil does not run up the dip-stick and
give an incorrect reading. When checking
the oil, always have the engine off and
allow 1 or 2 minutes for the oil to collect in
removing dip-stick to clean it
oil half full oil full
Dip-stick Readings reading dip-stick
www.ycccdiy.com Lubrication 55
Chapter 7
The Braking
System
Chapter 7
YouTube Video Code

The Brake System
CCCHOW600, 700 & 800
THE SECOND MOST IMPORTANT SYSTEM IN A CAR
The second most important system in a car, the power from the engine to the ground.
or any moving vehicle, is the braking Now we have a two thousand pound to six
system. I say second because the #1 most thousand pound metal machine moving
important system in a car, or any moving down the street at 60 miles per hour. We
vehicle, is the knowledge and need to be able to stop! The brake system
understanding of the vehicle in the mind works on four principals; force, pressure,
of the driver. friction and heat. The following are the
We’ve talked about how the engine works. primary factors and components typically
We’ve talked about the ignition system. found in and affecting brake systems of
We’ve talked about how to keep the engine most cars driven today.
cool, and we’ve talked about transmitting
THE ROAD CONDITIONS
The road is a key part of your vehicle’s ground is wet. The amount of ground con-
braking system, even though it is not tact surface area of one of your shoes is
physically a part of the car. The amount of about the same amount of ground contact
traction or grip that your car has with the surface area of the tires on your car. Just
road dictates how well you will be able to as you can slip and fall when it is wet
stop. You will be able to stop best when outside, your car can slip and slide off the
the road is clean and dry. Any reduction in road or into another vehicle, or pedestrian.
surface quality such as gravel, broken Always take into consideration the quality
pavement, rain, or oil, will reduce your of the surface you are driving on and
ability to stop. Think about how you adjust your driving style so that you are
would adjust the way you run outside if the able to safely stop your vehicle.
58 Braking System www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 7
THE TIRES
The tires are also part of the braking system. The
condition of the tires play an important role in that
vehicle’s ability to stop. In order for the tires to
perform their best to stop the vehicle, they must
have adequate tread, be inflated to the correct air
pressure, and be properly aligned on the vehicle. If
any one of these components are out of adjust-
ment, it can reduce your vehicle’s ability to stop.
Tread in good condition
tread depth
gauge
tread depth
indicator
Low air pressure
tread depth
indicators
Good Average Low

To inspect your tire tread health, use a tire tread
depth gauge and examine how close your tread
has worn down to the level of the tread depth
indicators on the tires. When tread is low, it is Uneven tread wear;
time to replace the tire. Alignment issues
www.ycccdiy.com Braking System 59

Chapter 7
BRAKE PADS AND BRAKE SHOES
Brake pads are used with disc brakes and ture the brake friction pads such as ceram-
brake shoes are used with drum brakes. ic, semi-metallic, and kevlar. It is a good
The brake pads and shoes are the most idea to know what material your brake
wear-intensive components of the braking pads/shoes are made of and what their
system. Brake pads are made with a performance range is. Periodically, check
friction material attached to a metal plate, to see how much material is left on your
and brake shoes are made with friction brake pads/shoes or have them checked to
material attached to a metal frame. The see what condition they are in. Worn,
friction material experiences more friction cracked, or damaged pads or shoes
and heat than any other component in the should be replaced. Pads that have been
braking system. Consequently, brake pads glazed smooth, can sometimes be resur-
and brake shoes must be replaced when faced by sanding them off and then reused
the friction material wears down. There if they have not been dried out too much
are different materials used to manufac- from heat.
metal backing plate
friction material
brake pads
metal backing frame
friction material
brake shoes

Chapter 7
BRAKE DISC AND CALIPERS
The brake caliper holds the brake pads on the wheels mount on the studs with
either side of the brake disc and squeezes nuts/bolts. When the brake is applied, the
the brake disc with the brake pads very caliper slows the brake disc which slows
tightly to create friction to stop the car. The the hub which slows the tires, which stop
caliper is bolted to the wheel hub of the car. the car.
Wheel studs go through the brake disc and
brake disc
brake caliper
studs
brake disc brake caliper brake disc and caliper
BRAKE DRUM AND CYLINDER
The brake shoes are mounted inside of the then the wheel of the car slide over the
brake drum. A hydraulic cylinder presses mounting studs that stick out of the hub.
the brake shoes tightly against the inside When the brake is applied, the brake shoes
wall of the brake drum to create friction to press against the drum, which slows the
stop the car. The drum is bolted to the hub, which slows the tires, which stop the
wheel hub of the car. The brake drum and car.
brake shoe hub
hydraulic brake cylinder
brake shoe mounted on hub brake drum brake cylinder mounted on hub

Chapter 7
THE BRAKE LINES
Brake lines carry brake fluid from the brake fluid through the lines causing the caliper to
master cylinder to the brake caliper on disc squeeze the disc in a disc brake system and
brakes or to a brake cylinder on drum the brake cylinder to force the brake shoes
brakes. When the brake is applied a plunger out and press against the inside of the brake
inside the master cylinder forces the brake drum in a drum brake system.
brake fluid reservoir
brake lines from master cylinder
brake master cylinder
brake lines starting at the master cylinder
brake cylinder brake line to brake cylinder
hub
backing
viewing brake line from front of brake line connecting to brake

hub to brake cylinder cylinder through back of hub

Chapter 7
THE BRAKE FLUID
Brake fluid is specially formulated to meet stopping and have a more “spirited” sporty
the requirements of the Department of driving style, you may want to use DOT 4.
Transportation (DOT) to be qualified for If you enjoy an occasional track day and
use as brake fluid. The most common have no problem going back and forth
types of brake fluid are DOT 3, DOT 4 and between 60 mph and 100 mph then you
DOT 5. Brake fluid has special heat toler- may look into DOT 4 blue racing brake
ant and non-compression properties that fluid, DOT 3 & 4 synthetic, or even DOT
make it ideal for use in the braking system. 5. It is ok to mix fluids but the fluid
For the average, everyday street driver, properties will be a mix as well.
DOT 3 is fine. If you tend to enjoy hard
Common braking fluids
Fluid type Dry boiling point Wet boiling point Viscosity limit
DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) 140 °C (284 °F) 1500 mm2/s
DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) 155 °C (311 °F) 1800 mm2/s
DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F) 900 mm2/s
DOT 3 & 4 DOT 4 DOT 5

DOT 3 DOT 4 synthetic racing blue
Note: Brake fluid is non-compressible. This means in a braking system there should
be a firm feel to your brake pedal; it should not feel spongy. If your brake pedal goes
from feeling firm when you press on the brake to spongy, it may mean there is air in
the brake line. Two common ways that air gets into the brake line is by letting the fluid
level get too low or by opening the brake system.

Chapter 7
THE MASTER CYLINDER
The brake master cylinder consists of a brake fluid reservoir, and a cylinder with a
plunger inside. The fluid reservoir sits on top of the cylinder to supply it with brake
fluid. The plunger inside the cylinder forces the brake fluid down the brake lines to the
slave cylinders. The slave cylinders in disc brakes are the brake calipers , and in drum
brakes they are the hydraulic brake cylinders.
brake lines to front calipers brake fluid reservoir
brake lines to rear cylinders brake master cylinder
brake master
cylinder in car
brake master
cylinder out of car

Chapter 7
THE BRAKE PEDAL
The brake pedal is directly connected to the brake master cylinder and actuates the
plunger in the cylinder to apply the brake when you apply your foot to the pedal. The
brake pedal is also connected to the light switch that turns on your brake lights.
power booster vacuum line

brake light switch
brake fluid reservoir
master cylinder
brake line to front
brake line to rear

brake power booster
(makes pedal easy to press)
firewall of car

Chapter 7
THE BRAKE LIGHTS
The brake lights are important because briefly, then let off, then brake again. This
they signal to other drivers that you are will cause your brake light to go on and
slowing down. When your foot applies the off a few times giving drivers behind you
brake pedal ever so slightly, the brake more than one opportunity to see that you
lights come on to alert the drivers behind are slowing. If a driver behind you is
you that your car is slowing down. That looking away momentarily when you
is why it is a good idea to touch your brake brake the first time, they may not
pedal lightly when you slow even if you immediately realize that your brake lights
do not need to brake for the amount of are on when they look back up, especially
slowing you want. When you do actually if you do not have a third brake light.
brake to slow, it is a good idea to brake in Periodically check your brake lights to
“sessions”, by that I mean apply the brake ensure they are working.
Use your brake lights to let

people behind you know
when you are slowing!
brake light switch
brake pedal

Chapter 7
THE EMERGENCY BRAKE
The emergency brake, also known as the rear wheels to work on the vehicle,
safety brake or the parking brake, is used especially if the vehicle happens to be in a
to keep the car from moving when you driveway or on a slight incline. This is
want it to remain stationary. The parking why we stress, NEVER lift a car on an
brake on most cars only applies the brake incline and ALWAYS use wheel chocks
to the rear wheels. The front wheels on in front of and behind the wheels that
most cars have no parking brakes. This is remain on the ground before you raise the
important to remember when raising the vehicle.
Emergency brake only

stops rear wheels!
Always use wheel chocks

whenever you raise a car!

Chapter 7
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is one of the reasons why many young drivers have accidents. Brake fade is
when the brakes stop working while you are using them, usually caused by overheating
from continuous use. There are several different modes of brake fade. The following are
the four most common modes of brake fade:
1. Friction fade
Friction fade, also referred to as dynamic on a hill. Another cause is low performance
fade, occurs when the brakes fail due to too level of the friction material of the brake
much heat. This is caused by too much pads or brake shoes, or a combination of
braking for the braking system to handle. any of these. Friction fade can be avoided
This may be because the friction material, by using a more moderate driving style, by
discs or drums being worn too thin, or the upgrading the friction material of your
driver may be braking too much for the brake pads or brake shoes, or upgrading
system to handle such as constant braking your rotors and calipers.
What happens all too

often when brakes fade!
2. Mechanical fade
Mechanical fade occurs in basically two ways; when the brake mechanisms have failed
due to rust or damage , or the pads or shoes have worn to the point that there is no longer
any friction material left to make contact with the disc or drum. If, upon inspection,
worn, damaged, or rusted components are found, they should be replaced.

3. Fluid Fade Chapter 7
Fluid fade occurs when the brake fluid in experienced fluid fade, you might want to
the brake lines gets so hot it boils, creating consider changing your brake fluid to a
bubbles. Bubbles are compressible and higher heat tolerance. If you are already
make the brake pedal feel spongy. This using DOT 4 or 5, and your brakes are
greatly reduces the amount of braking fading under street driving conditions, the
force from your foot that actually reaches brake system needs to be inspected, there
the brake rotor disc. If your brakes feel may be air in the lines or you may want to
spongy, have them checked right away! If modify your driving style.
you suspect that your system has
overheated brake caliper

overheated brake pads
bubbles forming in brake lines
overheated brake rotor disc

Disc Brake
bubbles forming in brake lines

overheated brake cylinder
overheated brake shoes
overheated brake drum
Drum Brake
Overheated Brake Components and Fluid

4. Green Fade Chapter 7
Green fade refers to new brakes that have According to Federal Motor Vehicle
not yet been broken in but are being Safety Standard (FMVSS) 105, it takes
required by the driver to perform at full approximately 200 moderate stops to
capacity. New brakes need to be properly burnish a new brake system.
“seasoned”, “broken in”, or “burnished” “Moderate” stops are basically taking it
so that the new parts have time to settle easy on your brakes until they have time
in to the correct adjustment, and the brake to mate properly with the braking
pads and/or shoes have time to burn off surfaces of the discs or drums. Only
new factory resins. The brake pads and/or make very gradual stops from about 30
shoes also need time to mate up flush mph and allow about 30 seconds for the
with the friction surface of the disc or brakes to cool between stops by driving
drum. The pads and shoes also coat the at least a few blocks. The FMVSS has a
surfaces of the discs and drums creating much more detailed procedure.
a tacky grip that causes higher friction. brake caliper
brake pads not yet squarely

mated to disc
new brake pads have resins that

need to burn off
new rotors have machine cuts that

need to be smoothed out
HOW TO AVOID BRAKE FADE

Brake fade occurs when there is a heavy or load you are placing on your brakes and be
sustained load placed on the brakes. This aware of what your brakes are capable of
can be a result of high speed, heavy load, handling. There are several ways to avoid
downhill driving, or any combination of brake fade including driving style, braking
the three. The best way to avoid brake fade style, and brake system modification. For
or complete failure, is to be aware of the best results, combine all three.

Chapter 7
DRIVING AND BRAKING STYLE
By far, not speeding is the most important burnished to break them in properly. The
thing you can do to modify your driving key to braking in a way that will not cause
style to help avoid brake fade. For downhill brake fade is to realize that each time you
driving, reducing your speed will aid in use the brakes heat starts to build up in the
avoiding brake fade even more. braking system. The more you apply the
Downshifting when going downhill and brakes, the more heat builds up. Learning
when approaching stops will give you better how to control the speed of your vehicle by
control of the car and take some of the heat downshifting to a lower gear and using the
load off of the brakes. Downshifting to a brakes in short intervals then allowing them
lower gear will help slow the car and keep time to cool will help to avoid brake fade.
it from building up too much speed. Again, using the car’s engine by down
shifting to a lower gear when approaching
The worst thing you can do when braking a stop or going downhill is a good way to
is constantly riding your brakes; for help avoid brake fade. Also, anticipate
example, holding your foot on the brake for stops, and begin braking in advance when
long stretches while going down a steep hill. you know you will have to slow or stop.
This is especially true when the brakes are Braking hard all at once builds up a lot of
new, or when slowing from high speeds. heat fast. Stopping gradually is easier on
When the brakes are new, they need to be your brakes and is safer.

Chapter 7
BRAKE SYSTEM MODIFICATION
When the brake is applied, the friction parts absorb more heat and thus add
between the disc and the brake pad braking capacity. Another aspect of brake
immediately begins to generate heat. Every fade that can be addressed is the brake fluid.
brake system has a limited amount of heat Higher temperature rated brake fluid such
it can withstand before the brake system as DOT 4 or blue racing fluid can be added
will start to fail, i.e. brake fade. There are to avoid boiling the brake fluid in the lines
many aftermarket modifications that can be due to heat. Other modifications that can
done to a braking system that will make it help reduce and manage braking heat are
much less vulnerable to brake fade. To drilling and slotting the rotors and
manage the heat, better components such plumbing duct work to direct more air onto
as larger discs, larger calipers and larger the rotors to help keep them cool.
pads, can be added. These larger brake
Three Ways to Enhance Braking System Performance
Large high performance High performance Drilled, slotted and vented

calipers brake fluid high performance discs

Safety First
ALWAYS
THINK
SAFETY
FIRST!
Chapter 8
YouTube Video Code

SAFETY FIRST
CCCSAFETY100
Personal Protection
Whenever attempting to perform service remove or for any procedure that you
or maintenance on a vehicle, remember attempt to perform. Think about what you
that safety is the most important thing and are going to do before you start. If you do
must come first at all times! This chapter not feel confident in performing a task, do
will touch on some of the most important not perform the task. Instead, take your
basic precautions you should always car to a licensed mechanic. The following
follow to remain safe while working on a safety tips are what everyone should follow
car. Always consult the vehicle at a minimum to stay safe while working
manufacturer’s recommendations for any on a car.
component that you attempt to install,
74 Safety www.ycccdiy.com
LET SOMEONE KNOW
Before working on a car, especially if you it will take and set a check-in time. If you
plan to raise the car and get underneath it, have not been heard from by your check-in
let someone know what you are planning time, they should check on you. This
to do. Tell them approximately how long procedure could potentially save your life.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH VENTILATION

Whenever working on a car, make sure you dangerous fumes. It’s a good idea to use a
have fresh air from outside flowing through fan to move the air. Even if the fumes are
your work area, especially if you are low and there is no danger of passing out
working in a small space. If you are or asphyxiation, breathing the many toxic
working in a garage or other building, fumes that can come from a car is bad for
fumes can build up and you may not be able your lungs and can have very negative
to smell them. Make it a habit to always long-term affects that may not be
allow some air to pass through your work immediately apparent until much later.
area so that you can avoid breathing
www.ycccdiy.com Safety 75
PROTECT YOUR HANDS
Whenever you work on the brakes or under Always make sure the engine is cool
the hood of a car, it is a good idea to wear before touching it. Never perform
quality rubber or mechanic’s gloves. Good service on a car while it is running. An
quality gloves keep your hands clean and exception to this rule is when you check
protect them from minor cuts and burns. the automatic transmission fluid.
Gloves also act as a barrier to liquids that Automatic transmission fluid expands
can enter your blood stream through your considerably when warm and needs to be
skin. check while the car is running.
Normal operating temperature of an engine can reach 200 to 300 degrees

Fahrenheit. Allow the engine to cool off before touching it.
PROTECT YOUR AIRWAY
For many jobs, protecting your airway is a protection whenever working on the
very good idea. Consider what you plan brakes. Brakes have brake dust on them.
to work on and do what makes sense. It is never safe to work on brakes without
Airway protection should be worn airway protection and rubber gloves. Some
whenever using compressed air while brakes have dangerous particles in them
working on a vehicle. Dust, dirt, and which are released when the brakes are
chemicals can be dislodged and suspended used. Some of these particles are known
in the air that you are breathing. You to cause lung disease and cancer when
should cover your mouth and nose in inhaled. They can cause permanent damage
advance to avoid inhaling these particles. to your lungs if inhaled, so protect your
It is also important to have airway airway by covering your mouth and nose.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION
When working on a car, it is very chemicals can splatter, and springs or tools
important to wear eye protection. Whether can break and fly free. Working on a
you are working on the radio inside the car, vehicle without eye protection is always
the brakes, or under the hood, there are unsafe. Wear eye protection whenever
always hazards for the eyes. Sparks can working on a car.
fly, dust and dirt can get into your eyes,
SECURE THE VEHICLE

Whether the car is raised for working ● Apply the emergency brake (emergen-
underneath it or working on the wheels cy brake only stops rear wheels)
or brakes, safety practices are important
and must be followed every time. As a ● Place the car in 1st gear if the car has a
minimum always do the following: manual transmission. If the car has an
automatic transmission, place the car in
● Before raising the car with a jack, locate park; front wheel drive will stop front
the vehicle on level ground wheels only, rear wheel drive will stop
rear wheels only, and all wheel drive
will stop all wheels.
Manual in 1st gear Automatic in park
USE WHEEL CHOCKS
Place chocks in front of and behind each tire that is still touching the ground. Having
wheel chocks on both sides of the tires helps to prevent the car from rocking and
becoming unstable on the jack stands.
Fig. A
Anytime you plan to be under a
vehicle, working on the brakes,
or removing the wheels, secure
the vehicle on jack stands.
Fig. B
Place wheel chocks in front
of and behind the tires that
stay on the ground.
B
DISCONNECT THE POWER
Whenever your hands will be near any electrical or moving part of the engine,
disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery before starting to work.
Having the battery connected while working on mechanical or electrical parts can
result in any or all of the following:
● electric shock
● fire caused by a short circuit
● unwanted starting of the vehicle*
*This is especially true when working on or near the starter. The posts on the starter
solenoid can easily become crossed and the engine can turn over causing damage to
the vehicle, injury,or death.
Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. One end of the negative battery
cable is connected to the negative battery post and the other end is
connected to the body of the car.
PREPARE FOR EMERGENCIES
The following section is one that is often overlooked until there is a problem. This section lists items
to take with you in your car to be prepared for unexpected problems on the road. It is divided into
three sections, Basic, Road Trip, and Out in the Middle of Nowhere.
Basic
Basic items to have in your car in the event of an emergency:
● Tools for changing a tire; jack, wheel chocks ● Roadside service number in your phone
● Spare tire ● Cell phone
Road Trip
On a long road trip, we want all of the basic items plus some other items that will be of great use
should we have a break-down. Consider the following:
● Flashlight and spare batteries ● Spare cell phone battery
● Drinking water and coolant ● Leave an itinerary with someone
Out in the Middle of Nowhere

If you are going to “Vegas” or someplace far or out in the desert away from shops and ready access to
shops, parts stores, and other forms of help. Even if there are part stores nearby, they may not have the
part you need in stock; 2 weeks special order while on vacation is no fun. The following are things
that I take with me at a minimum to avoid being stranded:
● required tools to change belts, hoses, and your ● first aid kit and toilet paper
alternator; wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers
● pocket knife, map, compass, GPS
● spare radiator coolant hoses and leak tape
● flashlight and spare batteries
● spare serpentine (fan) belts
● 2 days supply of dry food in containers
● spare alternator
● a means to start a fire
● portable jump-starter and jumper cables
● A means of personal protection. If your car
● portable air compressor, fix-a-flat and puncture breaks down in the middle of nowhere, and a
plugs pack of coyotes decides to make a meal of you
and your family, you need to be able to defend
● spare cell phone batteries, car & wall chargers yourself.
● drinking water and coolant ● Good walking shoes. Pumps look great but
after a few miles on the road they could spell
● fill up at ½ tank of gas
disaster.
● thermal blankets, poncho, warm clothes
THE MOST VULNERABLE SYSTEMS OF A CAR
The three most vulnerable car systems are 1. tires, 2. cooling system, 3. alternator. The
following sections discuss why these systems are more susceptible to failure than others.
What to do to avoid these failures and what to expect and do when a failure occurs.
The Tires
The tires are by far the weakest link in automotive design. They can also be the most
dangerous in the event of a failure. Some of the best ways to avoid tire failure is to not
drive over the speed limit and routinely inspect the tires for proper inflation, damage,
puncture, and adequate tread. Once tire tread wears down to the wear indicator bars, it is
time for new tires. If a tire fails, remain calm and pull over as soon as safely possible.
Cooling System
The cooling system can fail in several ways. It basically consists of a water pump, which
is turned by a serpentine belt, water hoses, a radiator (which is easily damaged); and a
radiator cap. The best way to avoid a cooling system failure is to check your belts and
hoses, periodically check your coolant level in your radiator and overflow tank, and change
your radiator cap every other year. When there is a failure in the cooling system of any
of these items, the engine will overheat very quickly and must be turned off as soon as is
safely possible. Overheating the engine can cause severe and permanent damage.
Alternator
The alternator supplies electricity to the ignition coil(s) for the spark plugs and recharges
the battery. The best way to make sure your alternator is in good working order is to
have your charging system checked every year or two; many parts stores provide this
service for free. Having an alternator failure can be very dangerous because when the
initial failure occurs there will be no symptoms. The car will continue to operate off of
the battery until the battery runs out of charge. Unless you have a charge indicator or
warning device you will not know the alternator has failed until you cannot start the car
or the car dies while being driven. If the car suddenly dies, and you suspect the alternator,
check the serpentine belt that turns the alternator, it may have broken and the alternator
may be ok. In the event of a failure, pull over as soon as it is safe to do so and have your
alternator, serpentine belts and battery checked. If the alternator has failed, driving to a
safe location could damage the battery, but it is better to replace a battery than to walk
and expose yourself to danger unnecessarily. Driving with a failed alternator and failing
battery is not advised, have the vehicle repaired as soon as possible.
Checking
Your
Fluids
Chapter 9
YouTube Video Code

Checking Your Fluids
CCCDIY1000
Recommended
Time: Varies
Chapter:
Talent:
Safety First
Tools: Wrench, funnel, paper towels
Cost: $0.00
Tip: Wear gloves and safety glasses
Coolant
Engine oil Washer fluid
84 Fluids www.ycccdiy.com
Chapter 9
HOW TO CHECK VEHICLE FLUIDS
Before working under the hood of a car, apply the parking brake and place the car in park
or in 1st gear. Always wear eye protection. Before checking fluids, allow the car to sit for
at least 30 minutes after turning the engine off. This allows the engine to cool and the
fluids to settle. The following is a list of the fluids you should routinely check:
1. engine oil 4. windshield washer fluid

2. transmission fluid or transmission 5. power steering fluid
oil (gear oil) 6. brake fluid
3. engine coolant 7. clutch fluid
Check the engine oil level by removing the empty usually represents about one quart.
dipstick twice, once to clean it off with a If the oil level is not up to the full line, add
paper towel, and a second time to observe oil a little at a time until the oil reaches the
the level on the stick. The purpose for full line. Do not overfill! If the engine oil
“cleaning” the dipstick is not to actually looks black and dirty, it is time to change
clean it, but to remove oil that may yield a the oil. See the “How to Change Your Oil”
false reading. The distance between full to chapter for details.
wipe dipstick before reading oil level read oil level after wiping and re-dipping
Note: Some vehicles do not have a physical dipstick to check the oil level, instead they
have an electronic “dipstick” that is checked via an instrument panel display. Review
your vehicle owner’s manual for the correct way to check your engine oil.
www.ycccdiy.com Fluids 85
Chapter 9
TRANSMISSION FLUID
Check the transmission and differential whether the engine has been running a
fluid or gear oil. If the car has an automatic while and is hot or has been sitting and is
transmission, it will have transmission cool. When checking the transmission
fluid. If the car has a manual transmission it fluid, the engine must be running. Add
will have gear oil. The differential takes fluid as necessary to bring fluid up to “full”
gear oil in both transmission types. For line. Add only a small amount of automatic
automatic transmissions, verify whether the transmission fluid at a time; i.e. 2 oz.
engine is cool or hot before checking the Adding fluid is easy but removing it is
fluid level. There are different fill level difficult if you add too much. Pour the fluid
lines on the dipstick for a cool or hot into the dipstick hole and recheck the level.
engine. Use the appropriate line based on
Full hot
Full cold
Low hot
Low cold
automatic transmission fluid automatic transmission fluid dipstick
Note: Some vehicles, such as Mercedes-Benz, require a dipstick that does not
remain in the car. Review your vehicle owner’s manual for the correct way to
check the
Mercedes dip stick that does not remain in the car

Chapter 9
CHANGING YOUR GEAR OIL
For manual transmissions and differentials, not be able to remove the top fill plug; for
the correct gear oil level is established example, there might not be enough room to
by removing the fill plug bolt and pumping fit the tools that you have in the space
oil into the transmission until oil comes between the car and the top fill plug. The top
out of the fill hole. Then, quickly replace fill plug might be cross-threaded or stuck in
the fill plug bolt. There are many different the fill hole. The outside of the bolt may be
weights of transmission gear oil, check damaged. The significance of this is that if
with the manufacturer for the correct type you can’t remove the top fill plug, you will
for your vehicle. To replace transmission not be able to refill the transmission. You
or differential gear oil, do the following: don’t want to drain your transmission oil out
Remove the top plug first to create a vent, until you know you will be able to replace the
this allows the fluid to drain faster and old oil with new. If you remove the bottom
drain plug before you know you can remove
smoother when you open the bottom drain the top fill plug, you may not be able to refill
Plug. On manual transmissions, removing the transmission with gear oil and you will
the top fill plug first insures that you “can” lose the use of your car until you can remove
in fact remove the top fill plug. There are the top fill plug.
several reasons why you might
fill plug
My Choice
(top)
gear oil
drain plug
(bottom)
typical manual transmission oil pumps typical differential
Chapter 9
HOW TO CHECK THE COOLANT
Warning: Make sure that the engine is cool before removing the radiator cap. If the
cap is removed while the engine is hot severe injury can occur.
When checking the coolant do the following:

1. Remove the radiator cap. Inspect the condition of the gasket and resistance of the
spring. It is best to change the cap every 2 or 3 years.
2. Verify that the coolant level is at the top of the radiator. If the coolant is
consistently low, replace the radiator cap with a new one. If the coolant level
continues to get low, you could have a leaking hose, heater core, or even a blown
head gasket.
3. Remove the caps from the radiator and the coolant overflow tank. Add coolant to
the radiator until it is full. Also add coolant to the overflow tank until the level
reaches the full line on the side of the tank. radiator cap
spring gasket
overflow tank
coolant
radiator cap coolant overflow tank
Chapter 9
WINDSHIELD WASHER FLUID
Check the windshield washer fluid level. tips from getting clogged. Sometimes
Add fluid as necessary to bring level up to windshield washer fluid is considered to
the “max” level line. If you overfill the be an unimportant fluid, but consider this;
windshield washer fluid, it’s no big deal, driving down a highway and having a
the excess will spill to the ground. It is a truck splash muddy water onto your
good idea to use your windshield washers windshield. When you try to wash it off,
every once in a while even if you don’t this is a good time to have your windshield
need them; this will help keep the spray washers work when you try to use them.
Windshield washer fluid is important. Keep your reservoir full and spray tips clean
windshield
washer tank
washer tank hidden windshield washer fluid washer tank visible
Chapter 9
POWER STEERING FLUID
Check the power steering fluid level. The the cap. The measuring stick is usually
cap on the power steering reservoir may attached to the cap. Add fluid as necessary
have the words “power steering fluid” to bring the level up to the “max” level
written on it. Verify whether the engine is line. If checking the level while the engine
hot or cool because there are different fill is hot, use the “hot” line, if checking when
lines on the dip stick for hot and cold cool, turn cap around and use the “cold”
engines. Whether the engine is hot or cool level line.
will dictate which lines to use. Unscrew
cold level
removing cap from reservoir power steering cap hot level
BRAKE FLUID
Check brake fluid. Many cars have the DOT 4. If you do not know, use the
brake fluid reservoir located in the same manufacturer’s recommended DOT Fluid.
place, on the driver’s side mounted to the Remove the brake fluid cap from master
firewall (in the USA that is on the left). cylinder reservoir and add brake fluid
Before adding fluid to the brake master as necessary to bring level up to “max”
cylinder reservoir, verify what kind of brake fill line.
fluid your car uses. Most cars use DOT 3 or
max line
location of min line

brake fluid
reservoir
brake fluid
max / min lines
Chapter 9
CLUTCH FLUID IS BRAKE FLUID
Clutch fluid is the same as brake fluid. The remove the reservoir cap and add fluid up
master cylinder may be shared or the clutch to the full line. Some cars have a system
may have its own master cylinder. The that feeds the clutch from the brake fluid
clutch master cylinder reservoir is usually reservoir and do not have a separate
smaller but looks similar to the brake reservoir for the clutch. Use brake fluid in
master cylinder reservoir. To add fluid, brake and clutch master cylinder reservoirs.
brake and clutch reservoir
clutch reservoir
brake reservoir
brake master
cylinder
example of system with a single brake example of system with separate brake
and clutch master cylinder reservoirs and clutch master cylinder reservoirs
FUEL
Check the fuel level on the vehicle’s gas gauge. If the fuel level is below ¼ tank, this is
a good time to refill the fuel tank. Going below a ¼ tank can allow contaminates in the
bottom of the fuel tank to be sucked up into the fuel injectors and clog them.
¼ tank is a good time to fill up filling up the gas tank
Chapter 10
Changing your
Engine oil
Chapter 10
How to Change YouTube Video Code

the Engine Oil CCCDIY300, 310, 320
Recommended Time: 30 - 60 minutes

Chapters:
Talent:
● Safety First
Tools: ●open end wrench ●wheel chocks
● How to Use a Jack
●ratchet & socket ●jack stands
●oil filter wrench ●funnel
●floor or scissor jack ●recycle Jug
●Catch pan
Cost: $20- $50
Tip: Wear eye protection and gloves.
Use wheel chocks and jack stands!
Have fun reading this chapter and learning how to change your oil. You can do it yourself
or just gain an understanding of what is involved.
94 Changing Your Oil www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 10
SAFETY FIRST!
To perform an oil change you will need the proper safety equipment, the
proper tools, and the necessary supplies as follows:
● safety glasses
● rubber gloves
Tools
● oil filter wrench - to remove the old oil ● drain pan - to catch the old oil
filter
● recycle container - to dispose of old oil
● open end wrench - to remove oil pan
drain plug ● funnel - to pour oil into engine
● floor jack, wheel chocks, and jack ● paper towels or rags and spatula - for
stands - to raise and stabilize vehicle clean-up
Supplies
replacement oil filter
(ask your local auto parts
store employee for the
correct filter for your car)
replacement oil
replacement washer for oil pan drain plug

(these usually come with the oil filter)
www.ycccdiy.com Changing Your Oil 95

Chapter 10
THE ENGINE OIL
The engine oil keeps all of the moving minutes. Don’t destroy your car’s engine
parts of your engine working together by failing to change the oil. Changing the
smoothly and helps keep the engine cool. oil, and performing other routine
Running the engine low on oil, or with maintenance on your car can save you
dirty oil, damages the internal parts. The money and make your car safer to be on
result will be a reduction of the life of your the road, this should give you better peace
engine. Even a new engine, operated of mind about the condition of your car.
without oil, will fail within a matter of
Sludge from oil not being changed Oil changed regularly
Choosing Replacement Oil.
The best way to choose which oil to use is to consult your dealer or local car care
professional. They will need to know the year, make, and model of your car. Tell
them how many miles you have on the engine. Also, consider climate, temperature
and driving style for best selection results.

Chapter 10
RAISING THE CAR FOR AN OIL CHANGE
Step 1 Take the following steps to secure a vehicle before working under it
or on any part of the car that requires it to be raised:
Make sure the car is on level ground. Apply the parking brake. Put the car in 1st gear
if it has a manual transmission; place the car in park if it has an automatic
transmission. Never raise a car on an incline.
Park for automatic transmission 1st gear for manual transmission
Make sure the car is on level ground. Never raise a car on an incline
Make sure the tires that will remain on the ground are blocked with
Step 2
wheel chocks (in front and back of the tires).

Chapter 10
RAISING THE CAR FOR AN OIL CHANGE

Warning:
Before using a floor jack or scissor jack read the chapter “How to use a Jack”.
Step 3
Lift the car with a floor or scissor jack and support it with jack stands. If you are
not comfortable jacking up a car, do not attempt to jack up the car. Alternatively
use ramps or have your car serviced at a shop.
What you need to lift a car Floor Jack
Scissor Jack Jack Stand

Chapter 10
DRAINING THE ENGINE OIL
Step 4
Place a catch pan under the oil pan.
Center the pan under the oil plug
bolts be prepared to adjust the
position of the pan to catch the oil
because sometimes the oil comes
out at a slight angle.
Run the engine for 30 - 60 seconds to warm the oil. This will allow
Step 5
the oil to drain more easily. Do not work on the engine while it is
hot. Remove the oil plug bolt by turning it counterclockwise to
allow the oil to drain into the catch pan.
Once the oil stops draining, replace the oil pan plug bolt and washer. Check to
make sure the old washer is not still stuck to the oil pan. Tighten to
manufacturer’s torque specification, do not over tighten.
drain plugs and washers

Chapter 10
REPLACING THE OIL FILTER
Other than the oil filter, the rest of the oil change process is the same for most
cars.
Step 6
Locate the oil filter. Consult your owner’s
manual for the location of the oil filter.
Reposition the drain pan under the oil filter. Remove
the old oil filter by unscrewing it counterclockwise
with your hand or an oil filter wrench. Check to
make sure the old oil filter gasket is not still stuck
to the engine block. Clean the engine block surface
before installing the new filter. canister style oil filter
The oil filter that this vehicle uses is a have additional O-rings and/or washers
canister style filter. Not all cars have this to replace as well. These additional items
style of filter. Some have an insert style are usually included in your filter kit.
filter, which is usually encased in a Below is an example of a filter kit for a
housing and requires the housing to be BMW. Your local parts store can help
opened with a socket or wrench to access you find the correct filter for your vehicle.
the insert to change it. When changing
this style filter you will usually
insert housing housing cap filter in insert filter

cap removal housing kit

Chapter 10
REPLACING THE OIL FILTER
Before installing the new oil filter, place a thin film of oil on the rubber
Step 7
gasket of the new filter with your finger. This will help the gasket make
a better seal with the engine block. Replace the old oil filter with a
new oil filter. Tighten until snug then loosen a little and re-tighten
hand tight. Do not over-tighten the oil filter; it gets tighter on its
own when the engine gets hot.
oil filter gasket install oil filter hand tight
If you over tighten the oil

filter it will be VERY hard
to remove on the next oil
change. It may end up
looking like this when you
finally get it off!

Chapter 10
REFILLING WITH NEW OIL
Step 8 Refill the car with new oil. Use your car manufacturer’s specified
quantity of oil. This information should be in your owner’s manual.
Start the car and allow it to run for about 10 seconds, then turn it off.
Step 9
Wait for about 1 minute. Look under car to check for leaks, then
recheck the oil level.
Oil half full
Oil full Keep dipstick pointing down

Chapter 10
REFILLING WITH NEW OIL
Step 10 If the engine oil level is low, add small amounts of oil at a
time as necessary to
Step 11 Replace the oil fill cap and close hood.
Step 12
Lower the car off of the
jack stands and remove
the wheel chocks.
Reminder:
Don’t forget to remove
the oil drain pan from
under the car!

Chapter 10
RECYCLE YOUR OLD USED OIL
Recycle the used oil and oil filter responsibly. Many cities pick up oil and filters as a
waste removal service, and many auto parts stores accept used oil at no charge. Check
your local area for options available to you to make sure you do your part to help keep
our planet clean.

How to Change
the Battery
Chapter 11
How to Change YouTube Video Code

Your Battery CCCDIY1100
Recommended
Time: 10 to 20 minutes
Chapter:
Talent:
Safety First
Tools: Open end/box end wrench or ratchet
and socket
Cost: $80 to $200.00 for battery

Tip: Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses.
terminal protectors See Appendix A “Basic Tools” in the back of this book.
ratchet and wrench

battery
106 Change Battery www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 11
HOW TO CHANGE A BATTERY
Changing a battery is fairly easy, but basic safety guidelines should still be followed.
Use eye protection, make sure the vehicle is secured with the emergency brake and is in
park if it is an automatic transmission, and in 1st gear if it is a manual transmission.
To change a battery, do the following:
Step 1 Step 2
Remove the negative battery cable Remove the positive battery cable
Step 3 Step 4
Remove the hold down mounting bracket Remove the old battery
www.ycccdiy.com Change Battery 107

Chapter 11
Step 5
To promote electrical conductivity
and to help prevent corrosion on
the new battery, protect the
terminals with a light coat of
petroleum jelly and install battery
terminal post protectors.
Petroleum jelly also makes it easier
to remove the cables from the posts
the next time you need to clean the
posts or change the battery.
Coating battery terminals with petroleum jelly.
Installing battery post protectors. Battery post protectors.
108 Change Battery www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 11
Step 6 Step 7
Install new battery Reconnect the POSITIVE cable FIRST
Step 8 Step 9
Reconnect the NEGATIVE cable LAST Reinstall the hold down bracket
You’re done!!!
www.ycccdiy.com Change Battery 109
Chapter 12
How to Jump
Start a Car
Chapter 12
YouTube Video Code

How to Jump-start a Car CCCSAFETY600
Recommended
Time: 10 - 30 minutes
Chapters:
Talent:
Safety First
Tools: Jumper cables and second vehicle,
portable jump starter, or battery charger
Cost: $0 to $50
Tip: Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves. If you
are out and do not have safety glasses,
prescription or sunglasses are better than
nothing. Protect your eyes!
Jump Start www.ycccdiy.com

112
Chapter 12
Warning!
Before explaining how to jump-start a car, it is important to point out that some newer
cars can be severely damaged if the battery is disconnected or they are jump-started. Many
new cars have sophisticated, anti-theft ignition systems and sensitive computer systems
that can be damaged or destroyed if the battery is disconnected or jump-started. Check
with your manufacturer for the best way to change your battery or jump-start your car.
STARTING A CAR WITH A DEAD BATTERY
The following are five ways to start a 5. Charge with a second vehicle.
car with a dead battery:
If the car has an automatic transmission
1. Push-start the vehicle. or you do not want to push start your
car, you can charge the battery.
2. Use a portable or mini jump-starter.
The main differences between battery
3. Jump-start with a second vehicle. chargers and portable jump-starters are
4. Use a battery charger. the amount of time it takes to recharge
the battery and how they are used.
PUSH-STARTING A VEHICLE
If the car has a manual transmission you can push start it. To push start a car do the
following:
1. Turn the key to the run position
2. Put the car in second gear and hold the clutch in. If you have to push the car by yourself,
you may have to put the car into neutral until you get it rolling then put it in second
gear.
3. Get the car rolling about 10 mph by pushing it, letting it roll down a small hill, or having
someone else push it for you.
4. “Pop” the clutch. To pop the clutch you let the clutch pedal out briefly, just enough to
allow the car’s momentum to turn the engine over a few times then immediately put
the clutch back in to allow the engine to run. If the car doesn’t start the first time you
pop the clutch, you may have to try a few more times until you get the timing right.
5. If the battery is completely dead due to a failed alternator or some other reason, push
starting the vehicle will not work. There needs to be enough electricity in the battery
to supply the ignition coils with enough power to fire the spark plugs.
www.ycccdiy.com Jump Start 113
Chapter 12
PORTABLE AND MINI JUMP-STARTERS
A portable jump-starter can jump-start a outlet. Portable jump-starters need to be
car without being plugged in at the time of recharged to work properly. Charge your
the jump-start and puts out a lot of electric portable jump-starter at least once every 6
charge in a short amount of time. months so that it is ready when you need
it. Mini jump-starters are used the same
To use a portable jump-starter, connect the way as portable jump-starters, they are
positive and negative cables of the jump- simply smaller in physical size. Quality
starter directly to the terminals of the dead portable and mini jump-starters cost
battery. Then turn the jump-starter on. anywhere from $50 to $100 and can be
You can try to start your car within 1 to 5 found at most auto parts stores or
minutes of connecting the jump-starter. department stores such as Sears or
This type of jump-starter is initially Walmart.
charged by connecting it to an electrical
portable jump-starter
mini jump-starter
mini jump-starter connected
114 Jump Start www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 12
JUMP-STARTING WITH A SECOND VEHICLE
Jump-starting a car is fairly easy but can be dangerous. If your battery dies and you
are not sure whether you can safely jump-start your car, don’t jump-start it.
Follow these steps and your jump-starting experience will be safer and successful.
Note: Safety first, wear eye protection and be aware that sparks can fly, so keep others
away from the batteries when performing a jump-start.
Step 1
Get a second car that runs and park it close enough to the car you are trying to jump-
start so that the jumper cables can reach the terminals on both batteries.

Chapter 12
Step 2
Identify the positive and negative battery terminals. The positive battery terminal
has a (+) sign by it and this cable runs to the engine and connects to the starter.
Positive Battery Cable
Negative Battery Cable
The negative battery terminal has a (-) sign by it and this cable is bolted to the
frame of the car for ground.
Car frame

Chapter 12
Step 3
Connect the jumper cables.
Warning: Throughout the jump-start process,
take care to ensure that you do not let the
negative and positive ends of the j u m p e r
cables come into contact with each other!
Sparks will fly, the car may be damaged, the
battery could explode, and you could be
severely injured or killed!
Do not touch positive and negative

cable ends together.
With the engines of both vehicles off, connect the red positive cables to the positive
battery terminals on both vehicles. Make sure the black negative cables are not
connected to either vehicle.
good battery dead battery
Step 4
Connect one end of the black negative
cable to the negative battery terminal
of the good vehicle that you can start.
good battery

Chapter 12
Step 5 Connect the other end of the black negative cable to some bare metal
part of the frame of the car you are trying to start, someplace away from
the battery. Do not connect to the negative battery terminal of the car
you are trying to jump-start.
Strut Studs
(car frame)
Dead battery Negative cable on dead car frame
This is what it
should look like
3 2 1
with all cables
connected.
Step 6 3000 RPM

Start the car with the good battery and rev
the engine to about 3000 rpm for about 5
minutes. If your car does not have an rpm
gauge (tachometer), 3000 rpm is a little
above idle, just enough to turn the engine
a little faster to give the alternator the
“spin” power it needs for extra output to
help start the other car. Tachometer

Chapter 12
Step 7 While continuing to rev the engine of the car with the good battery, at
about 3000 rpm, try to start the car with the dead battery. If the car does
not start, rev the car with the good battery for about 5 more minutes and
try again. If it still does not start, the battery may need to be charged
on a charger or it may be damaged and need to be replaced with a new
battery.
If the car with the dead battery does start, disconnect the negative
Step 8 battery cables from the car’s frame and battery terminal of the good
1. Disconnect good battery; negative

from good battery 2. Disconnect from frame of car with
dead battery; negative
Step 9 Disconnect the red positive cable from the good battery then
disconnect the other end of the red positive cable from the dead battery.
3. Disconnect good battery; positive 4. Disconnect dead battery; positive

Chapter 12
USING A BATTERY CHARGER
A battery charger must be plugged into an Do not try to start the car while it is
outlet to work and adds only a small connected to the battery charger.
amount of electric charge to a battery at a
time. To use a battery charger, connect the It can take from 30 to 60 minutes before
positive and negative cables directly to the you can try to start the car. However, it is
terminals of the dead battery, then plug the worth taking that time compared to weeks
charger cord into an outlet and turn the at the dealership and hundreds, sometimes
charger on. Charge the battery for 15 thousands of dollars to repair damaged
minutes and check the charger to see if it ignition system components and
is accepting a charge. Once the battery is computers. Many systems contain parts
charged, unplug the battery charger and that must be ordered and are registered in
disconnect it from the battery before the dealership computer and you cannot go
attempting to start the car. to any other mechanic to have these
ignition and security components replaced.
After connecting the cables to the battery, plug charger into an outlet.

Chapter 12
USING A SECOND VEHICLE TO CHARGE A BATTERY
Another way to charge a battery is to use avoid damage or loosing stored data,
a second vehicle. To use another vehicle, check with your vehicle’s manufacturer
connect the jumper cables the same way before disconnecting your battery. To
you would as if you were going to jump- charge the dead battery, allow the good car
start the car. Disconnect the negative to run for about 30 minutes, then make
battery cable from the dead car while sure you disconnect the dead vehicle from
charging its battery. Some cars need to be the running vehicle before attempting to
connected to a back-up power supply start it.
when the battery is disconnected to
1 2
Disconnect dead cars negative battery Connect jumper-cables to dead car first.
3 4
Connect positive battery terminal then Then connect positive and negative
negative jumper-cable directly to jumper cables to good vehicle.
battery.

Chapter 13
Changing
Light Bulbs
and
Fuses
Chapter 13
YouTube Video Code

Lights and Fuses
CCCDIY800
Recommended Time: 15 to 60 minutes

Chapter:
Talent:
Safety First
Tools: ● wrench ● pliers
● screwdriver ● paper towels
Cost: $5 - $200+
Tip: Check you owners manual for specifics of
your car. Check Youtube for similar
tasks. Take your time.
fuses
headlights taillights
124 Lights and Fuses www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 13
Changing a Light Bulb YouTube Video Code

CCCDIY800
CHANGING A LIGHT BULB
Although at first glance, changing a light bulb and supplies the electricity. Another
bulb may seem like a simple routine main- type has a socket that the bulb goes into
tenance task, in actuality, depending on the from the front and twists into place.
car, changing a light bulb can be a very Determine whether the fixture needs to be
challenging task. With so many different removed or if the bulb can be changed in
car designs, and bulb types, from incandes- place. Look at the exposed back of the light
cent and LED to Xenon, it is impossible to fixture, determine if there is a removable
give detailed instruction on how to change cover, or if the back of the bulb is exposed
the light bulbs on each car. Even so, we do and can be removed directly from the
not want to leave our readers with nothing, fixture. Refer to your owners manual or a
instead we will outline some basic guide- shop manual specifically written for your
lines that can be helpful in changing many vehicle to determine the design and config-
types of lights. uration of your light fixtures. The following
are examples of how to change light bulbs
Many car lights consist of a light fixture, a in a few different vehicles.
bulb that fits into the back of the fixture,
and a wire connector that connects to the
Note: When changing the bulb do not touch the bulb with your bare hands. The oils
from your fingers create hot spots which can reduce the life span of the bulb. Even with
LED lights that don’t get as hot, it is still a good idea not to touch the bulb.
taillights changed headlights changed after battery taillights changed

with fixture in place and air filter housing removed with fixture removed
www.ycccdiy.com Lights and Fuses 125

GAINING ACCESS TO BULBS
Open the hood or trunk depending on whether it the light fixture and install the bulb from the back
is a taillight or a headlight. Many light fixtures of the fixture, or remove the light fixture or lens
have a protective cover on the back that snaps or from the car. Next remove the bulb from the back
clips on; remove this cover. Some light fixtures of the fixture; usually removal requires the bulb
must be removed from the vehicle to change to be twisted counter-clockwise.
the light bulb. Either remove the back cover on
headlight hood opened to reveal back cover removed

back covers of headlight to expose light bulbs
remove nuts
taillight remove fixture and disconnect change light bulbs

electrical connector
headlight electrical connector removed change light bulb

Chapter 13
GAINING ACCESS TO THE BULBS
There could be a wire holding the bulb in In some cases access to the back of the light
place. The electrical connector may plug fixture is blocked by the air filter box,
into the back of the bulb, or the fixture window washer reservoir, or the battery. In
and the bulb would twist into the fixture. these cases these items will need to be re-
Some fixtures have a circuit stamped on moved to gain access to the back of the light
them and the bulb plugs into the fixture. fixture.
taillight taillight cover remove cover

inside trunk change light bulb
remove bolt
taillight remove light fixture change light bulbs
Once you have established how your light bulb is installed, remove the old bulb and
replace it with a new one. Replace the rear cover or re-install the light fixture and re-
attach the electrical connector.

Chapter 13
HOW TO CHANGE A FUSE
A fuse or fusible link is a weak point in an as when the fuse is old. Refer to your
electric circuit that is designed to fail first vehicle owner’s manual to locate the fuse
in the event of a circuit overload. Fuses panel(s). Some cars have only one fuse
usually fail for one of two reasons: box, others have two or more. Identify the
component of electric failure on the chart
1. There is a surge of electricity that or inside the lid of the fuse box on the car,
exceeds the current load limit set for the then change the associated fuse. Always
circuit or replace the failed fuse with a new fuse of
2. The fuse is old and eventually fails. the same amperage. Never put a 10 amp
When a fuse is old and fails, the solution fuse in a 5 amp fuse slot to stop the fuse
is to disconnect the negative battery cable from blowing out. Never replace a fuse
and replace the fuse. with wire or a paper clip. If a fuse fails
repeatedly, there is an electrical problem
When the fuse fails because of an overload that must be solved before the fuse can be
of some kind, the first task is to figure out replaced. Putting a higher amperage fuse,
what caused the overload. This may wire, or a paper clip in a fuse box can
require the help of someone experienced cause wires to burn up inside your wiring
in tracking down electrical problems. harness and cause your car to catch on fire.
Once the source of the overload is found
and repaired, changing the fuse is the same
EXAMPLES OF FUSE BOXES

Chapter 13
TYPES OF FUSES
The two most common types of fuses that likely to fail can easily be viewed to check
may need to be changed in a vehicle are the for failure. Fuse removal tools make
blade type and the cartridge type. Both of removal much easier, simply pinch and pull
these fuse types usually have a window them out. Usually you can push the
where the thinnest part of the wire most replacement in by hand.
Examples of Vehicle Fuses
Blade fuses Cigarette lighter

Mini blade fuses
Fusible Link
Cartridge fuses J-Case fuses
Fuse removal tool and tester Fuse removal tool

Chapter 14
How to do a
Tune-up
Chapter 14
YouTube Video Code

The Tune-up
CCCDIY350
Recommended
Chapters: Time: 1 to 2 hours
Talent:
• Safety First
• How to Use a Jack Tools: ratchet, extension, spark plug socket, open
end wrench, flat-head screw driver, throttle
and MAF cleaner, toothbrush & baking
soda, battery post cleaner, anti-seize paste,
See Appendix A “Basic Tools” feeler gauge
in the back of this book Cost: $50 - $200
Tip: Wear safety glasses and rubber gloves.
132 Tune-up www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 14
THE TUNE-UP
Before describing the details of how to efficiently. Factors that directly affect the
perform a tune-up, let’s discuss the purpose combustion process include: the air and
so that we understand what we are trying fuel entering the chamber, the intensity of
to accomplish. The purpose of a tune-up the spark igniting the air fuel mixture, and
is to support the combustion process in the precise time the spark is delivered.
each cylinder and keep that process going
Basically a tune-up is cleaning and adjusting three areas of the engine so it can run
smoothly. These areas are:
1. the spark plugs wires, ignition coil(s), and distributor cap and rotor (if equipped)
2. the air filter and throttle body intake
3. the ignition timing
Now that we know what a tune-up is and what needs to be done to perform one, let’s
look at how it’s done.
www.ycccdiy.com Tune-up 133

Chapter 14
HOW TO DO A TUNE-UP
Safety First
Before starting to work under the hood of a car, make sure the parking brake is on
and the car is in park if it has an automatic transmission or 1st gear if it has a
manual transmission; then perform the following procedure:
Change the spark plugs
Step 1
Before removing the spark plugs, disconnect the negative battery cable. Use a
wrench or ratchet and socket to loosen the terminal from the post.
negative battery terminal
negative battery post
Step 2
Label each spark plug wire with the number of the spark plug it is connected to
before disconnecting. Label the locations on the distributor cap that the
corresponding wires connect to.

Step 3 Chapter 14
Remove the coil(s) mount bolts and the coil tune-up process for each of these systems
electrical connector. Some cars have one is very similar once you remove the coils
coil to supply electrical charge to all of the from the vehicles that have shared coil
spark plugs. Others cars have a system systems or a coil for each spark plug. See
where two spark plugs share a coil, or have examples below.
a separate coil for each spark plug. The
Single coil systems have one coil connected to the distributor to serve all spark plugs.
mount bolts
Shared coil system have a coil for two spark plugs.

electrical connector mount bolts
Removing coil mount bolt from Removing coil from spark plug
individual coils

Step 4 Chapter 14
Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs by firmly pulling up with a
slight jerking motion.
Step 5
Using a magnetic or rubber-insert spark plug socket, remove the spark plugs. When
unscrewing a spark plug, use both hands. Support the top of the ratchet to keep it
centered to prevent damage to the spark plug that might result from forcing the
spark plug to one side.
Warning: Much care should be taken not to damage or break the spark plugs.
Keep the socket and extension straight and square when turning the spark plug with
the ratchet. Make sure the socket is all the way down on the spark plug and
completely engaged with the drive flats before turning. Much time, work and
expense will result if the engine’s cylinder head is damaged by improper removal
or installation of a spark plug.

Chapter 14
Step 6 Using a feeler gauge, verify the correct spark plug gap for the
spark plug electrode. Adjust gap to manufacturer’s
specification.
feeler gauge
gap adjuster
Checking spark plug gap Adjusting spark plug gap
Step 7 Place anti-seize paste onto the threads of the spark plugs. Take care not
to cover the electrode. Anti-seize is designed to help keep the spark
plugs from getting stuck in the cylinder head.
Positive electrode
Spark plug gap
Negative electrode
gap adjuster
Applying anti-seize paste
Adjust spark plug gap with feeler gauge adjuster
by bending negative electrode up or down.
Step 8 Install the new spark plugs and tighten to manufacturer’s specified
torque.

Chapter 14
Step 9 Re-install the spark plug wires onto the spark plugs. Push wires
down firmly to ensure that it is securely connected to the spark
plug.
Step 10 Use an open end/box end wrench or ratchet and socket to reconnect the
negative battery terminal to the negative battery post.
ratchet & socket
box end wrench
The PCV Valve
Replace old positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve every 2 or 3 years. They are
usually located on the valve cover and have a hose that connects them to the intake
manifold. They can be “checked” for functionality by shaking them to see if they rattle
(rattle is good), but this is not always an accurate way to check. They are inexpensive
so my suggestion is to just replace them every other tune-up.
PCV valve

Chapter 14
CLEAN THROTTLE COMPONENTS
Step 1
The throttle body is where the intake air hose connects from the air filter. Sticky
oil and carbon build up inside and can cause the throttle’s butterfly valve to stick
making the car hesitate and jerk when the gas pedal is pressed. Spray throttle
body cleaner into the throttle-body and allow to “soak” for about 5 minutes. Next,
wipe with a clean cloth, spray, and then wipe a second time.
spray cleaner into throttle body clean throttle body with paper towel
Step 2
If the engine is fuel injected, remove Mass Air Flow Meter (MAF). The MAF is
located directly after the air filter, it measures the amount of air entering the engine
and reports to the ECU. To report an accurate value the sensor must be clean.
Spray MAF cleaner over the internal air sensor element and allow it to air dry. Do
not touch the internal air sensor element.
mass air flow meter
MAF
remove MAF internal air sensor clean MAF element

Chapter 14
IGNITION TIMING
Note:
Most cars do not need the timing adjusted when a tune-up is performed,
particularly if the car is running smoothly. If you are not comfortable adjusting
the timing, have it done by a trusted mechanic. The procedure below is
generic, but is typical for many passenger cars. Consult your vehicle’s
manufacturer for specific procedures required for your car. Before attempting
to adjust the timing, check it with a timing light, it may not need adjustment.
Check timing and adjust
1. Plug vacuum lines (if necessary) and connect timing light to the
battery and the #1 spark plug wire.
2. Mark the timing cover and harmonic balancer, aka crankshaft pulley,
timing marks with white paint to make them easier to see, then check
timing and adjust if necessary.
3. With the engine off, loosen distributor mount bolts (not the distribu-
tor cap bolts) just enough to allow the distributor to turn with a little
force. Mount bolt locations will vary from vehicle to vehicle.
4. Start the engine and shine the timing light on the timing marks. If
the timing marks align to the manufacturer’s specification, no adjust-
ment is necessary. Go to step #5; Otherwise, turn the distributor cap
until the timing marks align appropriately.
5. Tighten distributor mount bolts and unplug and reconnect all vacuum
connections.
6. Remove timing light from the battery and the #1 spark plug wire.
Note:
If your car does not have a distributor, the timing is set in the computer and
is not manually adjustable.

Chapter 14
IDLE ADJUSTMENT
Once the timing is set, check the engine cold the idle is controlled by the car’s
idle speed. In older cars, if the idle does computer and the idle air valve. If the car
not match manufacturer’s specification, is not idling properly, other parts may need
loosen set screw and adjust as necessary to to be replaced such as the cold start valve
meet specification. When finished, re or idle air valve. For these vehicles, more
tighten set screw. advanced diagnosis may be required. Hav-
ing a code reader is highly recommended.
Some cars, such as some BMW’s which See the troubleshooting section of this
have a coil on each spark plug, do not have book to help identity why the car may not
an adjustable idle. When the car is started be idling correctly.
Quality code readers
MemoScan
good for foreign cars
Autel
Actron CP9145
good for foreign cars
good for domestic cars

Chapter 14
EGR VALVE CLEANING

The exhaust gas re-circulation (EGR) valve cleaner into it and clean with wire brush,
is controlled by the vacuum regulator then try to move the diaphragm again. If
which actuates the valve to allow exhaust the diaphragm still does not move, replace
gas into the intake to cool combustion for it. It is sometimes very difficult to clean
lower emissions of nitrous oxide aka Nox all of the areas that get clogged; it may be
and reduces the load on the catalytic easier to get a new one. It can be cleaned,
converter. The two primary reasons the however,if you are willing to do the work.
EGR valve stops working are; it becomes Some EGR valves are expensive, so
clogged with carbon deposits, or there is a choosing to clean your old EGR valve and
vacuum leak. replace vacuum hoses can be rewardingly
cost effective.
Check the EGR valve for diaphragm
movement. If diaphragm does not move
freely, spray carburetor
mass airflow meter
EGR valve
Note: throttle body
On many modern vacuum
vehicles the EGR line
regulator monitors the exhaust gas
exhaust gas and makes
continuous adjustments
to the EGR valve.
EGR vacuum
regulator
exhaust gas
intake air
Typical EGR System Configuration

Chapter 14
The following are a few examples of what the EGR valve looks like and where it is
located on some engines.
EGR valve on engine
diaphragm vacuum connection

exhaust ports to clean
EGR valve bottom EGR valve top

Chapter 14
IGNITION CONTACTS
Check spark plug wires for cracks and a tight fit on the spark plugs and
Step 1
rotor cap.
spark plug wires removed from spark plugs spark plug wires at rotor cap
Step 2 Check the rotor cap’s contact terminals for deposits. If deposits are
present, clean with a small screwdriver. If contacts are pitted, replace
the rotor cap.
Terminals
Corrosion on rotor cap contacts
Step 3 Check metal tip on rotor for deposits. If present, clean by scraping. If
metal tip has worn, replace the rotor. Dirty contacts make it hard to
start the car and it may have a rough idle or stall periodically. Gas
mileage will also suffer.
rotor tip
Rotor on distributor; cap removed Cleaning rotor tip Old vs New

Chapter 14
CLEAN BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR
Step 4
Check battery connections for corrosion baking soda and water, a wire brush or
deposits. If present, remove both cable toothbrush, or battery post cleaner.
terminals, negative cable first then the Cover battery posts with a light coat of
positive cable (See Chap. 11, “How to petroleum jelly, and replace post pads.
Change the Battery” for the proper way Then replace cables. Replace positive
to disconnect the battery). Clean cable cable first, then negative cable last.
terminal and battery posts with a little
battery cleaning supplies battery
Step 5
Check wires and plug connections to alternator; ensure that plugs are clean and
securely attached. Check the wire insulation for damage. Make sure no wires are
exposed. If you find damaged wires, repair or replace them.
alternator
power wire

Chapter 14
CHANGE OR CLEAN THE AIR FILTER
The air filter is usually in a container re-install per the instructions that come
leading into the intake manifold. It is with your filter. If the filter is not a
usually held closed by clips or screws. serviceable filter, remove it and replace it
Open the air box to observe the air filter. with a new filter. Properly dispose of the
If the air filter is a serviceable filter such old filter.
as K&N; clean, allow to dry, re-oil, and
1. remove the clips or screws 3. clean or replace with a new air filter
2. remove the air filter 4. replace the clips or screws.
Removing for cleaning Removing to replace
K&N serviceable
air filter cost more
up front but can last
for years.
Non-serviceable air filter cost less

initially but must be purchased
again and again.

How to Use
a Jack
Chapter 15
YouTube Video Code

How to use a Jack
CCCSAFETY300
Recommended
Chapter:
Safety First Talent:
Tools: ●jack
●wheel chocks
●level ground
Cost: $0.00
Tip: Do this exercise with a friend, at the
very least let someone know what
you are doing.
See Appendix A “Basic Tools” in the back of this book

Jacks are very useful tools that make working under a car possible for the home
mechanic and professional alike. However, a jack can be VERY dangerous if used
improperly. In this chapter, we will cover two jack configurations, how they work,
and some specific safety concerns. The hydraulic floor jack and the scissor jack are
the most commonly used to raise passenger vehicles.
scissor jack floor jack
148 How to use a Jack www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 15
HOW AN HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK WORKS
The hydraulic floor jack has a hydraulic tremendous pressure when the jack is being
pressure chamber filled with fluid. When used to lift a vehicle. These seals can
the handle is cranked, the fluid forces a ram rupture releasing the fluid from the pressure
out which raises the lift pad. The lift pad chamber. When a seal fails, whatever is
raises the vehicle. The hydraulic fluid is being lifted drops, and the jack will no
held inside of the hydraulic chamber with longer have lifting ability until the seal is
rubber seals. These seals are under replaced.
hydraulic ram hydraulic chamber
floor jack lift pad hydraulic fill screw
www.ycccdiy.com How to use a Jack 149

Chapter 15
PREPARING TO USE AN HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK
Before using a floor jack, clean the floor other debris, the lifting pad can pull off the
area where the wheels of the jack will be lift location on the car or the car can be
rolling! The wheels of the floor jack must pulled off a jack stand that might be on the
remain unobstructed while being used. other side of the car.
When the floor jack is used, the lifting arm Below is a picture showing how far the lift
swings in an arch toward the user causing pad can move toward you while lifting a
the jack to be pulled in toward the vehicle vehicle. Watch the wheels when lifting to
being lifted. Because the jack is being see if they are rolling inward as they should
pulled in toward the vehicle being lifted, to keep the lifting pad from pulling off the
the wheels need to roll freely. If the wheels lift location.
are blocked by dirt, rocks, sand or any
turn handle clockwise for lifting
start finish
This is how far the jack pad travels laterally turn handle counterclockwise to lower
when it lifts the car.
Warning:
Before using a hydraulic floor jack to lift handle clockwise at the same time to insure
a vehicle remember to turn the handle that the valve remains closed and that you
clockwise for lifting. Turn the handle are not inadvertently opening the valve by
counterclockwise for lowering. While accidentally turning the handle
cranking the handle to lift a car, rotate the counterclockwise.

Chapter 15
USING A JACK
Before using a floor jack or any jack to raise a vehicle, be sure to use wheel chocks and
place the jack on the correct location(s) on the vehicle for lifting as specified by your
vehicle’s manufacturer. This information should be in your owner’s manual.
wheel chocks lifting on frame lifting on designated location

front and back!
To use the jack to lift, turn the handle in the
clockwise direction until it stops, this indicates
that the valve is firmly closed. Then use the
handle to jack up the vehicle by cranking the
handle up and down. Take care not to
accidentally twist the handle in the
counterclockwise direction while you are
lifting the car. Double check that the handle
is turned firmly in the clockwise direction.
rotate handle clockwise for lifting
crank handle up and down to lift rotate counterclockwise to lower

Chapter 15
JACK STANDS
Once you have lifted the vehicle to the height you need to work on it, place jack stands
under the car in the appropriate location(s) as specified by your vehicle’s manufacturer
before working on the car or placing any part of your body under the car.
Tip: When you are ready to lower the car with the jack, before twisting the handle
counterclockwise, lift up on the handle an inch or two, this will make it easier to turn the
handle by keeping the valve’s universal joint from binding. Now using both hands, turn
the handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle slowly and gently in a controlled manner.
FLOOR JACK MAINTENANCE
Periodically remove the hydraulic fill screw a mess and possible shoot fluid into you
and check the fluid reservoir to make sure eyes. Wear eye protection. It would also
it is full. Always fill the reservoir with the overfill the fluid reservoir. Overfilling the
jack completely lowered, never add fluid to jack with hydraulic fluid can cause the jack
the reservoir with the jack raised. This can to fail. If the jack is leaking fluid, have the
cause fluid to be forced out of the fill hole seals replaced and the jack inspected.
when you remove the screw. It could make
hydraulic chamber
hydraulic ram
hydraulic fill screw

Chapter 15
THE SCISSOR JACK
If you do not have a floor jack, not to mechanical and not hydraulic, they do not
worry, most cars come with a scissor jack fail the way hydraulic floor jacks do. The
from the factory. Scissor jacks are bad news is they are mechanical jacks and
mechanical jacks that are usually raised fail the way mechanical jacks do! That is
and lowered by turning a worm screw. The why you should always use jack stands
good news is, because these jacks are even with a scissor jack.
Scissor jacks frequently fail by tipping over sideways. They can also twist, shear off
their holding pins, and crumple if overloaded. The base of a scissor jack is narrow and
laterally unstable. A jack stand has a wide base and is designed to be stable by itself and
is even more stable with weight on it. Since there are many different scissor jack designs,
make sure the scissor jack that you use is the correct configuration for your car, and
always use jack stands.
jack stands

Chapter 15
THE SCISSOR JACK CONTINUED
Before using a scissor jack, make sure the main screw that goes through the middle of
the jack has grease on it. This will greatly reduce the friction and stress on the screw
threads as the jack lifts thereby extending the life of the jack.
grease the worm screw

To use a scissor jack, place it in the correct location on your vehicle as specified by your
vehicle’s manufacturer. Use the handle that comes with the scissor jack and turn it
clock-wise to lift the vehicle. To lower the vehicle, use the handle and lower the vehicle
by turning the handle counterclockwise.
Suggestion: I always suggest when going to work under a car, make sure someone else
who is close by knows how to operate a jack. This can be critical if there is an accident
and you cannot reach the jack yourself.
turn clockwise to raise turn counterclockwise to lower

How to Change
a Tire
Chapter 16
YouTube Video Code

How to Change a Tire
CCCSAFETY500
Recommended
Chapters:
Talent:
• Safety First
• How to use a jack Tools: ● jack ● work gloves
● jack stands ● safety glasses
● tire iron ● wheel chocks
(lug wrench)
Cost: $0.00
Tip: Before hitting the road, always make sure
you have what you need to change a flat tire.

Obviously if you break down in the middle stands even if you use a scissor jack.
of nowhere without access to wheel Always block the wheels to keep the car
chocks, jack stands, and work gloves, you from moving when you jack it up. If you
will not be able to use these items. On the do not have wheel chocks, look around
other hand, if you place these items in your where you are to see if you can find a rock,
car, you will have them wherever you brick, or piece of wood to block the
happen to be when you need to change a wheels. Once the car is raised, try not to
tire. The better you prepare, the better rock or bump the car. Have occupants exit
position you will be in if you need to the vehicle if safe to do so. Otherwise, ask
change your tire. them to be still while you are working on
the car. When you are finished working
As stated in chapter two, “How to use a on the car, lower the car as soon as you
Jack”, you should always use jack can.
156 How to Change a Tire www.ycccdiy.com

Position the car on the most level ground possible. Engage the parking brake. Put the car
in park if it has an automatic transmission, or in 1st gear if it has a manual transmission.
Place wheel chocks behind and in front of the wheels that will stay on the ground, then
do the following:
Step 1 LOOSEN LUG NUTS
While the tire is still on the ground, use a wheel as you are facing it and push down
tire iron, breaker bar, or ratchet to loosen on the lug wrench. Do not stand on the
the lug nuts on the wheel to be changed wrench as this could cause it to slip off the
until they turn freely. Do this by lug nut causing damage to the car or bodily
positioning your body to the left of the injury to yourself or someone else.
Avoid using your foot

Loosen bolts before raising tire. to turn tire iron.
Step 2 JACK UP VEHICLE
Jack up the car until the wheel is about 1 to 2 inches off the ground. Place a jack stand
under the frame of the car. If using a scissor jack, still use jack stands with it. Lower
the car onto the jack stand making sure the tire still clears the ground. Check to make
sure the jack stand is secure and stable on the frame of the car and on the ground.
lifting with scissor jack jack stand wheel chocks
www.ycccdiy.com How to Change a Tire 157

Chapter 16
Step 3 REMOVE TIRE
Finish loosening the lug nuts by hand and remove the old or damaged tire.
removing lug nuts by hand removing tire
Step 4 INSTALL REPLACEMENT TIRE
Install the spare tire and install the lug nuts lug nuts. If you have help, you can have the
by hand, then tighten with tire iron, torque person put their foot on the service brake to
wrench, or ratchet. If it is a rear tire, you keep the wheel from turning. Applying the
can apply the emergency brake to keep the brake will allow you to tighten the lug nuts
wheel from turning while you tighten the without lowering the vehicle.
tightening lug nuts to manufacturer’s

tightening lug nuts by hand torque specification with tire iron

Chapter 16
Step 5 TIGHTEN LUG NUTS
If you are changing a front wheel and the tire as you face it. Push down on the
working alone, after tightening the lug tire iron wrench to tighten the lug nuts to
nuts as much as you can by hand, lower the manufacturer’s specified torque or to
the car to the ground to keep the wheel a very firm tightness. Tighten each lug
from turning when you tighten the lug nut 2 or 3 times o make sure they are all
nuts. Position yourself to the right side of evenly tightened.
Jack the car up enough to remove tighten lug nuts to manufacturer’s

the jack stand, then take the jack torque specification with tire on the
stand out from under the car. ground
1 Tightening the lug nuts in

the recommended order 1
3 4
4 above, will help the 3
wheel to mate flush
2 2
5
4 lug tightening order 5 lug tightening order
www.ycccdiy.com How to Change a Tire 159

UNDERSTANDING TIRE SIZE
When installing a tire other than the one aspect ratio that is a percent of the width,
originally on the vehicle, it is important to and the third section is the inside diameter
install the correct size. The size of the tire of the rim and the diameter of the wheel
is molded on the side of the tire. For most the tire will fit on measured in inches. The
passenger vehicles the tire size consists of units of the numbers is a mixture of
three sections. The first section is the width millimeters (mm), percentages (%) and
of the tire in millimeters, the second inches (in). The following are examples of
section is the height of the tire, a calculated tire sizes:
225/40/R18 P195/55/R15
90 mm / 225 mm x 100 = 40 section height

x 100 = aspect ratio
section width
1. first number (225 mm) - width of tire
2. second number (40%) - aspect ratio tire section
a percentage of tire width width
3. third number (18 in) - inside

diameter of tire and wheel diameter
15” Ø
18” Ø
section height aspect ratio section height aspect ratio

40% of 225 or 90 mm 55% of 195 or 107.25 mm

Chapter 17
Disc
Brake Job
www.ycccdiy.com Disc Brake Job 161

Chapter 17
YouTube Video Code

Disc Brake Job
CCCDIY100
Recommended Time: 45 minutes - 2 hours

Chapters:
Talent:
• Safety First ● tire iron ● jack
• How to Use a Jack Tools: ● jack stands
● screw driver
● wrenches ● wheel chocks
● pliers ● C-Clamp
● breaker bar ● hammer
● elastic cord
Cost: $50 - $200
Do one wheel at a time. Take a
Tip:
picture of assembly after removing
drum before removing any parts.
Disc brakes are easier to service than drum brakes. reassemble the brakes. With disc brakes there are
If this is your first time doing a brake job, the disc not a lot of parts to remove so labeling is not
brakes are the place to start. I strongly encourage critical, but is still a good idea when tackling a
you to service the brakes on one side of the vehicle new task. If you choose not to label, line up the
at a time. By servicing one side at a time, you will parts you remove in a neat orderly fashion and
have the other side assembled for reference. away from your immediate work area. This will
Additionally, take pictures before disassembling. make reassembly go more smoothly.
You can refer to the pictures to help you
162 Disc Brake Job www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 17
HOW TO DO A DISC-BRAKE JOB
Safety First!
The steps for working on the brakes of a car are as follows:
1. Make sure the car is on level ground.

2. Make the car is in park or first gear.
3. Apply the parking brake.
4. Secure each tire with wheel chocks (front and back of each tire).
5. Secure the vehicle on jack stands.
Most vehicles have disc brakes on the front wheels. Many have disc brakes on the
rear wheels as well. The technique for performing a rear disc brake job is the same
as performing a front disc brake job.

Chapter 17
REMOVING THE WHEELS
Step 1
Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels a little before raising the car off the ground
(this prevents the wheel from turning while you loosen the lug nuts). As you face
the wheel, go to the left side of the wheel then put the breaker bar on each lug nut
and press down to loosen. Do not remove lug nuts until vehicle is on jack stands.
Step 2
Secure the car on jack stands and place wheel chocks on both sides of the wheels
that stay on the ground, then remove the lug nuts by hand.

Chapter 17
Step 3
Once all lug nuts have been removed, take the wheel off of the hub. Place the tire and
wheel out of the way in a location that will not allow it to be damaged or to roll away.
removing
lug nuts
caliper on rotor disc

with tire removed
Step 4
Once the wheel is off, have a short elastic to prevent damage to the brake line. To
cord or other appropriate tether ready to remove the caliper, loosen and remove the
hang the caliper from the shock absorber two caliper bolts on the back side of the
spring. This will hold the caliper up once caliper (do not loosen the frame bolts
it is removed from the frame. Holding the unless you need to remove the rotor disc).
caliper up with an elastic cord is necessary
caliper
frame bolts
caliper bolts (not these)
(remove these) Note:
Make sure you tap the
wrench so that it turns
the bolt in a
counterclockwise
direction.
back side of caliper

Chapter 17
Hang the caliper from the shock strut spring with the elastic cord. To loosen the caliper
bolts without busting your knuckles, use a box end wrench and tap the other end of it
with a hammer. When tapping with a hammer, put the box end on the bolt not the open
end, the open end is not strong enough for initial loosening of the bolt.
elastic cord hanging from strut spring

Step 5
removing top caliper bolt,

removing bottom caliper bolt
use box end of wrench
elastic cord
open end caliper
brake line
brake pad
box end
combination box end/

removing caliper
open end wrench

Chapter 17
REMOVING AND REPLACING THE BRAKE PADS
Step 6
Use screwdriver to pry firmly between the sure it is not warped, cracked, or damaged.
brake frame and the brake caliper to Use a caliper to measure the disc thickness
separate the caliper from the frame. Slide to make sure it meets the manufacturer’s
the caliper off the brake pads and separate specified minimum thickness to be safely
it from the brake frame. Hang the caliper reused. If the disc is damaged or thinner
from the strut spring with the elastic cord than specified to be safe, remove the brake
to protect the brake line. Remove the brake frame bolts and replace the disc.
pads and inspect the disc surface to make
Step 7
Clean the disc and caliper with brake cleaner. Place a small amount of anti-squeal
paste such as “Disc Brake Quiet” on the back of the brake pads. Then install the new
brake pads in the caliper, install the caliper and brake pads onto the brake disc, and
mount the caliper to the caliper frame.
elastic cord holding caliper
quality brake cleaners applying “Disc Brake Quiet” installing brake pads

Chapter 17
Step 8
Depress caliper cylinder with a C-clamp. Reinstall caliper over brake pads.
Tighten the caliper bolts that hold the caliper to the frame to manufacturer’s
specified torque.
caliper frame
caliper
depressing caliper cylinder with caliper mounted to frame (front view)

C-clamp
caliper bolts
caliper mounted to frame (rear view)

Chapter 17
REINSTALL WHEELS AND LUG NUTS
Step 9
Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts in a star or crisscross pattern to
manufacturer’s specified torque.
1 1
4
3 3
4
2 2
5
4 lug tightening order 5 lug tightening order
To tighten lug nuts, go to right

side of wheel and push down.
Once job is finished, pump
brake pedal several times until
pedal becomes firm.

Chapter 18
Drum
Brake Job
Chapter 18
YouTube Video Code

Drum Brake Job
CCCDIY200
Recommended
Time: 45 minutes - 2 hours
Chapters:
Talent:
• Safety First
• How to use a jack Tools: ● tire iron ● jack
● screwdrivers ● jack stands
● wrench/sockets ● wheel chocks
● needle nose pliers ● channel locks
Cost: $50 - $200

Tip: Do one wheel at a time. If you
get stuck you can look at the
other side while still assembled.

Performing a drum brake job is both more stay organized. Place the parts in a neat orderly
complex and more difficult than performing a disk sequence so that reassembly is easier. It is always
brake job. If a vehicle has drum brakes they are a good idea to take pictures as you go along to
almost always on the rear wheels of the vehicle. “mark the trail” of putting things back together.
Very few have drum brakes on both the front and It also helps to label the parts, this will make it
rear wheels. I strongly recommend that you watch easier to identify which spring goes where.
the YouTube video, (CCCDIY200), of a drum
brake job being performed, and assess your own The example illustrations in this book and in the
skill level before attempting to perform this YouTube videos are not exactly the same for every
do-it-yourself procedure. If this is your first time, vehicle. The steps will be very similar but the
be sure to only disassemble one side at a time. springs and parts may be a little different. The
This will leave the other side assembled for you procedure can still be followed to successfully
to reference should you have difficulty perform a drum brake job for many vehicles by
remembering how the assembly goes back carefully going step-by-step and by doing one
together. It also helps if you take your time and brake drum at a time. Good luck and have fun.
172 Drum Brake Job www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 18
HOW TO DO A DRUM BRAKE-JOB
Safety First!
· Park the car on level ground.
· Put the car in park or first gear.
· Secure each tire with wheel chocks (front and back of each tire).
· Apply the parking brake (remember the parking brake only applies to the rear
wheels). When the rear wheels are raised, there is no longer any braking, this is
why wheel chocks must be used on the wheels that remain on the ground.
· Secure the vehicle on jack stands.
Step 1
Put the car in first gear or park and apply the parking brake. Applying the parking
brake will allow you to loosen the lug nuts after raising the car off the ground.
After removing the wheels, you will need to release the parking brake to remove
the drum and perform the brake job.
Warning:
The parking brake only applies the rear
brake. When the rear wheels are lifted
off the ground the car can move if the
front wheels are not blocked. Use wheel
chocks in front of and behind the wheels
that stay on the ground!
www.ycccdiy.com Drum Brake Job 173

Chapter 18
Step 2
Remove the lug nuts and take the wheel off. Place the tire and wheel out of the way
in a location that will not allow it to be damaged or to roll away.
Note: Once the wheels are off, release the parking brake so that you can remove
the drum.
Step 3
Remove the brake drum and inspect it. If the drum is stuck, you may need to tap it
with a hammer and pry it off with a screwdriver. Check the drum surface to make
sure it is not warped, cracked, or damaged and have the inside diameter (I.D.) of
the drum measured to make sure it is within the manufacturer’s specified maximum
distance to be safely reused. If the drum is damaged or the I.D. is greater than
specified to be safe, replace the drum.
brake shoes brake drum brake drum

Chapter 18
DISASSEMBLING THE DRUM BRAKES
Step 4
Rinse all brake parts with tap water

before starting to disassemble the
brakes, this removes the brake dust
so you do not inhale it.
Step 5
Remove the two brake-shoe-mount using needle nosed pliers, depress the
springs on either side of the hub by firmly spring with the end cap and turn the cap
placing one finger behind the mount pin 90 degrees and slide it off the end of the
on the back side of the brake plate to hold pin. Some brakes have different style
it in place. Then, with the other hand, caps, but the procedure is the same.
brake plate
back of mount pins
end cap pin
cap style 1 cap style 2

Chapter 18
Step 6
Remove the upper brake-shoe-return spring(s) and slack adjuster with pliers or
channel lock pliers. Some drum brakes have two springs instead of one but
the procedure is the same.
one upper return spring
slack adjuster spring
two upper return springs

Step 7
Remove the lower brake return spring
lower return spring

Chapter 18
Step 8
Using a flat head screwdriver, pry open the parking brake retaining clip and remove
the brake shoes.
retaining clip
slack adjuster blade
Step 9
Clean all brake parts with brake cleaner
upper return spring and slack adjuster
hold down springs, pins, and caps
lower return spring

lug nuts
brake shoe
Step 10
Place a small amount of white lithium
grease on the brake plate contact points
behind the brake shoes, this helps
prevent noise and wear.

INSTALLATION OF NEW BRAKE SHOES
Step 11 Re-attach the brake shoe onto emergency brake cable and crimp into
place with holding clip. Install slack adjuster spring.
emergency brake
retaining clip
slack adjuster
blade
Step 12
Install the brake shoe that is connected to the emergency brake cable. Use the brake
shoe retainer spring, cap, and pin to hold brake shoe in place.
retainer set retainer cap Removing cap
Install the lower brake return spring. Attach lower return spring to both
Step 13
brake shoes, then install second brake shoe retainer spring, cap, and pin.
retainer spring
cap and pin
lower return spring

Chapter 18
Step 14
Install the star wheel self-adjusting slack adjuster and upper return spring.
star wheel
Step 15
Re-clean brake drum and brake shoe friction surfaces
with brake cleaner, then adjust the fit of the shoes to
the drums. Adjust brakes by pushing the slack
adjuster blade off of the star wheel with one screw-
driver and turning the star wheel with the other screw-
driver.
brake part cleaners

slack adjuster wheel
slack adjuster blade
Step 16
Next put the brake drum on and test how tightly
it fits over the brake shoes by turning the drum
by hand. The drum should turn freely, and the
brake shoes should be lightly touching the drum.
Adjust slack adjuster as necessary to achieve the
correct drum tightness to the brake shoes.

Step 16 Chapter 18
Cont’d
Reinstall brake drum onto wheel studs and over brake shoes.
Step 17
Reinstall rear wheel and tighten lug bolts/nuts to manufacturer’s specified torque.
Step 18
Raise vehicle to remove jack stands. Lower vehicle, and remove wheel chocks.
Warning: Re-apply
emergency brake before
lowering the vehicle.

Troubleshooting
Engine - Brakes - Suspension
Air
Fuel
Spark
Brakes
Suspension
Chapter 19
YouTube Video Code

Troubleshooting Basics
CCCTIPS800
Recommended
Time: 30 minutes - several years
Chapters:
Talent:
• Personal Protection
• Work in a Safe Location Tools: Various
• How to secure a vehicle
Cost: $0.00 - $1000.00+

Tip: Know your limits, always think
safety first, and don’t be afraid to
ask for help.
The focus of this book is service and maintenance, problems. Rather, consider it to be an aid for
but we all know that no matter how well we testing the waters to see if vehicle troubleshooting
maintain our cars, sometimes we still have trouble is for you.
with them.
Although addressing car trouble is more of a
repair topic than maintenance and outside of the
primary focus of this book, I have decided to
include this section to help you get started in
learning how to troubleshoot and identify areas in
need of repair. This section is only an
introduction to troubleshooting and repair. There
are several books available as well as online help
that continue where this book leaves off. Please
do not think of this book or this section as a
complete shop manual for diagnosing car
182 Troubleshooting www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 19
ENGINE CONFIGURATIONS
To diagnose issues with your car you must naturally from atmospheric pressure? Is the
know the engine design and configuration. engine supercharged? Is the engine turbo
Information such as the number of cylinders charged? You must also know how the fuel
and how the cylinders are arranged is is ignited. Does the car have a single
essential (i.e., is it a V-8, V-6, or a 4- ignition coil with a distributor that delivers
cylinder engine). You must also know how spark to the spark plugs? Do the spark
fuel is delivered to the cylinders. Down- plugs share ignition coils, or does each
draft fuel injected throttle body, direct port spark plug have its own ignition coil that is
fuel injected, and float carbureted are ignited by computer control? This is the
examples. You must also know how the bare minimum information that you should
engine is aspirated or how air is delivered know about your car before trying to
to the cylinders. Is the engine aspirated diagnose problems.
REQUIREMENTS FOR COMBUSTION
It is important to know the three basic Onboard Data (OBD) I and II is stored in
required elements of every internal the car’s computer and will get you in the
combustion engine. These three elements ballpark of what the problem is. Once you
are: air, fuel, and spark. No engine can run have a general idea of what area the
without all three of these elements. The problem is coming from you can start to
nature of the malfunction will give you narrow it down by your knowledge of the
clues as to which of the three areas is history of the car and by the nature of the
causing the problem. Another way to find symptoms. Typically, the code reader will
out which of the three areas is causing the not tell you exactly what is wrong. A code
problem is to read the car’s computer with reader will tell you what system and maybe
a code reader. I strongly recommend what part is malfunctioning but not the
purchasing a code reader appropriate for the exact mode of failure. After you have the
year, make, and model of your vehicle. For error codes, how fast you figure out what
most cars, a good code reader will be the problem is depends on how well you
between $60 and $200 which, from my understand the air, fuel, and spark systems
experience, is money well spent. The in your vehicle.
www.ycccdiy.com Troubleshooting 183

Chapter 19
AIR FUEL AND SPARK
Intake Air
The car needs to “breathe” air to mix it When a car is not getting enough air
with the fuel so that the fuel can burn for the amount of fuel it is burning, the
efficiently. While it is rare that air is the car will run rich (too much fuel or not
problem when a car is not running enough air). This may cause any of the
properly, each component of the air following conditions:
intake system must work properly for the
correct amount of air to reach the 1.Black spark plugs. Fouling of the
combustion chamber. The primary plugs prevents them from sparking
factors and components that affect the air correctly.
intake of most cars are: 2.Black smoke and carbon build-up on
1.The cleanliness of the air filter. the tail pipe.
2.The cleanliness of the throttle intake. 3.The engine may sputter because of
the fuel rich state.
3.The cleanliness of the mass air flow
(MAF) meter. 4.The engine may be very hard to start
when warm.
4.The proper function of the oxygen
(O2) sensor(s). 5.The gas mileage will go down, and
engine will have reduced power.
5.The integrity of the vacuum hoses and
intake manifold.
6.Compressor health (supercharger or
turbo). *
7.The proper function of the electronic
control unit/module (ECU/ECM; i.e. the new normal carbon fouled
computer).
* Troubleshooting this item is beyond the scope of this book and very difficult to
diagnose but good to be aware of and to mention to your car care professional to check.

AIR FUEL AND SPARK
Intake Air
When a car is getting too much air for the amount of fuel it is burning, the car is
running “lean”. The following are some indications that your car may be running too
lean:
● White ashy spark plugs. can be unsafe depending on how you
look for the leak.
● Low power at higher engine rev levels.
6. In rare cases the ECU may have failed.
● Engine is hard to start when cold. Checking for a bad computer is
● Reduced gas mileage. definitely a last resort and beyond the
scope of this book. But, if you have tried
If you suspect your car is not running everything else and/or you have codes
correctly due to an air related issue, re- that suggest it is the computer, I recom-
view the seven items listed earlier and mend taking it to your local car care
doing the following: professional to have it diagnosed.
1. If the air filter is serviceable, such as the
K&N brand, clean, oil and replace.
If not serviceable, take old air filter out
and replace it.
2. Open and clean the intake of the throttle
with throttle cleaner.
3. Remove the mass air flow meter and
spray sensor with MAF cleaner. Do not
touch the MAF sensor inside the MAF
meter. Allow it to dry and reinstall.
4. If the oxygen sensors are bad, replace
them.
5. Change old vacuum hoses and check the A high quality air intake boot such
air intake boot for cracks. Finding a as this silicone version by Cosmo
manifold leak can be difficult. It may be Racing on this E36 BMW M3 can
a job for a professional. There are help eliminate many vacuum leak
techniques for finding these leaks but if problems.
you do not have the correct equipment, it
Chapter 19
AIR FUEL AND SPARK
Fuel
When a car is not running properly, the problem is more likely to be in the fuel
system or the ignition system than in the air system. The fuel system
components to check are the following:
● gas cap
● fuel tank
● fuel filter
● fuel quality
● fuel pump
● fuel injectors/carburetor
● electronic control unit/module (ECU/ECM), the computer
The hard part of diagnosing fuel problems is the symptoms are often the same as air or
spark problems. The key is to make sense of it through the process of elimination and
logic as you test each area. Symptoms of having a fuel problem include:
● car cranks but will not start ● car sputters or has a miss
● car starts but dies at idle ● car hesitates at acceleration
● reduced gas mileage ● black smoke out of tail pipe
● engine light comes on ● reduced power
Check to see if you’re Read engine fault

out of gas codes

Chapter 19
AIR FUEL AND SPARK
Fuel Hard and Intermittent Starts

When a car is having a fuel problem If the car starts intermittently, the fuel filter
follow these steps to isolate the issue might be clogged. The best way to ensure
to solve the problem: you have a clean fuel filter is to replace it.
Clogged Fuel Filter
Car Cranks but Will Not Start
Poor quality gas can clog the fuel filter
If the car cranks but will not start, check the and/or the fuel injectors. A fuel cleaner
gas gauge. It may simply be out of gas. and/or fresh gas will often solve the
Even if the gas gauge shows a quarter tank, problem. Other times, a fuel injector may
the tank could be empty. Put a gallon or need to be replaced. Avoid this problem by
two in the tank. If the engine starts, you only buying fuel from reputable gas stations.
have found the problem. You may need a If your car is carbureted, the fuel float level
new fuel sending unit. The fuel sending unit could be too low or you might have a
is what controls the gas gauge. clogged fuel jet. This will require a float
level adjustment and cleaning the carburetor
Fuel Not Getting to Fuel Injectors jets. The carburetor must be cleaned if the
jets are clogged. Sometimes this requires
If adding gas does not solve the problem,
the carburetor to be removed from the
fuel may not be getting to the fuel injectors.
vehicle to be cleaned correctly. This
Checking to see if fuel is getting to the fuel
procedure is beyond the scope of this book.
filter or fuel injectors requires disconnecting
Contact your car care professional.
the fuel system. This can be dangerous due
to the potential for fire or getting gas in your ECU/ECM Out of Calibration
eyes. These procedures are beyond the
scope of this book. Discuss this with a car The part of the car that controls everything
care professional. If fuel is not getting to is the electronic control unit/module
the filter, the problem might be the fuel (ECU/ECM). In rare cases, the ECU/ECM
pump, the fuel pump fuse, or the fuel pump will get out of calibration and will tell the
relay. Check the fuse and relay first. If fuel fuel injectors to supply the wrong amount
is getting to the fuel filter but not the of fuel. If so, the ECU/ECM computer must
injectors, the fuel filter may be clogged. be replaced. Contact your car care
Replace the fuel filter. professional for this.

Chapter 19
AIR FUEL AND SPARK
Spark
The spark or ignition system is how the fuel-air mixture is ignited in the combustion
chambers of the engine. Without this spark, combustion does not occur. For the engine
to run correctly, the spark must occur at the right time and the right intensity. Weak,
inaccurately timed, or missing sparks will result in a rough-running engine or an engine
that does not run at all. Diagnosing an ignition problem is often straightforward because
electricity is either flowing or it is not. To solve “no spark” issues you must understand
how the system is failing. To accurately identify what has failed, you must know which
ignition configuration your car has.
The primary components of the ignition system that support spark are:
● The ignition switch.
● The ground wire.
● The battery.
● The starter.
● The ignition coil(s).
● The spark plugs.
● Electronic control unit/module.
Symptoms that indicate the vehicle may have a spark problem:

● Vehicle cranks but will not start.
● Vehicle starts but runs rough.
● Vehicle is hard to start.
● Poor gas mileage.

AIR FUEL AND SPARK
Spark
When attempting to solve a suspected “no spark” problem, try to start with the simplest
and least expensive solution first. This is how I suggest addressing these problems:
Car will not turn over

If the car will not turn over, first make sure the car
is in park or neutral; in some manual transmissions, Indications that the alternator might be
the clutch must be pressed all the way to the floor dying are:
before the car will start. Next, check the battery.
If the battery is not charged, the car will not start. ● Engine turns over slowly (difficulty
There are a few things you can do to test the battery. starting car).
First, with the engine off, see if the headlights
come on and note whether they look normal or dim ● Car suddenly loses power while
compared to how they usually look. Then check
the ground (negative) and positive wire
driving
connections to the battery. Make sure they are ● One headlight brighter than the other.
tightly attached to the battery, and clean off any
corrosion. Check the negative battery cable to ● Lights dim while car is running.
make sure both ends are clean and securely
attached. The end connected to the battery and the ● Multiple lights on instrument panel
opposite end, which is connected to the frame of
the car, must both be clean and securely bolted
down tight.
If your battery is weak or dead, it could mean you
have a bad battery, or it could mean the alternator
is bad. When operating correctly the alternator
recharges the battery after each start. If the
alternator is not recharging the battery, the battery
could still be good just not charged. It could also
mean both the battery and the alternator are bad.
If you can charge the battery and get the car to start,
have the entire system checked out at your local
auto parts store; they will usually do it for free.
They will be able to tell you if your battery is bad,
your wires are bad, your alternator is bad, and even
if your starter is bad. Have the charging system
checked. This can be done at many auto parts
stores such as O’Reilly, AutoZone or Pep boys and
is sometimes free.

Chapter 19
Vehicle Cranks but Will Not Start
If the car cranks but will not start, it might 4. While a second person cranks the
be a spark problem. Check the spark plugs engine, observe whether a spark leaps
first. from the plug to the frame.
To check for spark at the spark plugs: 5. If a spark plug does not spark,
disconnect it from the wire it is
Warning: Wear safety glasses! connected to and try it again using one
1. Disconnect all spark plug wires/coil of the other wires. If it does not spark
wires so that the car will not start while after switching wires, but other spark
you are performing this procedure. plugs do, the spark plug is probably
bad. If a spark plug sparks on one wire
2. Remove the spark plugs and connect but not another wire, then either the
them, one at a time, to the spark plug spark plug wire is bad or the coil is bad
wire. if individual coils are on each plug.
3. With an insulated pair of pliers, hold
the spark plug by the spark plug wire
or coil if each cylinder has its own coil.
Hold about 1/4” from some metal part
of the car’s frame.
When checking the spark plugs, also coils usually fail individually and will
check the wires, the battery, and the create a “misfire,” i.e., cause the car to
ignition coil(s). If the spark plugs spark, run roughly. This should produce an error
then the problem is not the ignition. Here code that can be read with a code reader,
again, it is important to know the but it will not prevent the car from
configuration of your car’s ignition starting. Check the spark plug wires for
system. If there is no spark at the plugs, continuity. If it is a single coil system,
and the car has a single coil and a check the supply wire from the coil for
distributor cap, then the ignition coil continuity. Again, failure of a single coil
might be bad. If your car has individual will not prevent a car with multiple coils
coils at each spark plug, it is very unlikely from starting, it will just run rough.
that all coils have failed at the same time
and are causing the car not to start. These

Vehicle Cranks but Will Not Start
Another common cause for a vehicle not starting due to lack of spark is the spark plugs
themselves. Fouled spark plugs, i.e., dirty to the point that they can no longer conduct an
electric arc across their terminals, can prevent the car from starting. The solution is a
tune-up that includes installing new spark plugs.
Vehicle Starts but Runs Rough

If the car is running rough due to an ignition spark issue, the items to address are fairly
straightforward. Just follow the path from where the spark starts to the spark plugs, and
clean everything along the way. These items are:
1. The wire connection(s) to the ignition coil(s)
2. The ignition coils (multiple coils). Verify that each is working by disconnecting one
at a time and observe whether the engine runs more roughly or dies. If the car does
not respond when a coil is disconnected, the wire, the coil or the spark plug on that
cylinder is not working.
3. The electronic control unit/module (ECU/ECM). If the car has individual coils, they
are controlled by the vehicle’s computer, the problem could be with the ECU/ECM.
Diagnosing this is beyond the scope of this book and should be left to a car care
professional.
4. The wire connections to the spark plugs. Look inside the rubber connector to see if
the metal connection is actually reaching the spark plug, if not pull it down until it
does.
When trying to figure out why your car is running poorly, remember the basics of air,
fuel, and spark listed below, they can help isolate the problem.
Air Issues Fuel Issues Spark Ignition Issues
Dirty air filter Empty fuel tank Ignition switch
Mass airflow meter Fuel Pump fuse Battery
Failing compressor Clogged fuel filter Battery wires
Dirty/stuck throttle Bad Fuel Ignition coil(s)
Vacuum leak Fuel pump Spark plugs
ECU/ECM Clogged injector Starter
ECU/ECM ECU/ECM
Chapter 19
LEAKS AND SMOKE
Leaks
If your car is leaking fluid other than water block or head. There are “stop leak” products at
condensate, something is wrong. The problem auto parts stores that sometimes work well to stop
might be a loose oil filter, oil pan drain plug, valve oil leaks and transmission fluid leaks. However,
cover, or a loose radiator cap. Check these areas, in my experience, radiator leaks are best repaired
then wipe the fluid off the engine and see if more by welding or replacing the radiator. The pour-in
fluid leaks. If the leak continues, the problem radiator repairs many times don’t work and clog
might be a gasket, an engine seal, or even a and coat the inside of your radiator causing it to
cracked dissipate heat less efficiently.
Smoke or Steam
White smoke
White smoke coming out of the tail pipe usually White smoke coming out of the tailpipe from
indicates the engine is burning oil. When burning oil usually indicates the valve seals in the
observing “white smoke” verify it is smoke and cylinder head or engine block are worn and/or the
not steam. Smoke and steam look very similar, piston rings in the cylinders are worn allowing oil
but they are very different and indicate different to slip past them into the combustion chamber.
problems. There are two easy ways to tell the Sometimes oil additives and “stop leak” fluids
difference between smoke and steam. Steam work very well to swell the valve seals and reduce
dissipates more quickly and does not smell like or eliminate the oil consumption.
burnt fuel. Smoke lingers much longer and has a
very strong burnt fuel smell to it. Steam coming Black smoke
out of the tailpipe in the morning is quite normal
Black smoke is usually an indication that the
in most cases. At night moisture from the air
engine is running fuel rich, i.e., too much fuel.
condenses in the exhaust pipe and evaporates out
Either too much fuel is getting into the cylinders,
when the car is started in the morning. This should
or the correct amount of fuel is being delivered but
only occur for about 5 or 10 minutes and then stop.
not enough air is reaching the cylinders. Too much
If your car has steam coming out of the tailpipe
fuel could be the result of a jammed fuel injector,
long after it has been running and/or in the middle
failed fuel pressure regulator, or an engine
of a warm day, your car may be leaking coolant
computer that is out of calibration. Too little air
into the combustion chambers; this usually
could be a result of a failed or dirty mass air flow
indicates a blown head gasket. Coolant dripping
meter, clogged air filter,dirty throttle body, or
out of the tail pipe is also an indication that you
stuck throttle buttery fly valve. Alternatively, the
may have a blown head gasket.
correct amount of air but too much fuel could be
the problem.

Chapter 19
TROUBLESHOOTING BRAKE ISSUES
The brake system is one of the most important features on the vehicle. “The Brakes” chapter explains
how the brake system works. This chapter describes some things that go wrong with brakes and how
to identify the source of problems.
The brakes rely on non-compressible hydraulic pressure and friction between smooth and even surfaces.
The friction between the surfaces produces a tremendous amount of heat which must be dissipated
in-between brake applications. These features of the system provide clues to the source of most braking
problems.
The following are some of the common problems that occur with brakes:
Spongy brake pedal feel
“Spongy” feeling or “sluggish” brakes indicate you cylinder is allowing fluid to slip past the seals and
do not have solid hydraulic pressure within your plunger. To fix a faulty master cylinder issue,
braking system. A spongy pedal usually indicates replace the master cylinder and the brake fluid.
there is air in the brake line. To remove air, bleed When seals degrade in a master cylinder some of
the brakes line and/or replace the brake fluid. the material dissolves into the brake fluid making
Sluggish brakes may mean the brake master it less effective.
Pulsating brake pedal and steering wheel shakes

A vibrating or pulsating brake pedal is usually an surface necessary for proper braking. Many auto
indication that the brake disc is warped and needs parts stores and machine shops offer this service.
to be “turned” if there is enough material left on
the brake disc. If there is not enough material A shaking steering wheel is often a sign of worn
thickness left on the disc, the disc must be linkage components such as ball joints on tie rod
replaced. Turning a brake disc means using a ends or control arm, idler arm, or pitman arm
special tool to machine off a small amount of the bushings. Have these checked at an alignment
surface material to recreate the smooth, even shop. It is difficult to check these yourself.
Brake pedal goes to the floor or almost to the floor
If your brake pedal goes down too far, this could failing internally. If the fluid level is low, check
be an indication of air in the brake lines, or that each of the calipers and/or drum brake cylinders
there is a leak in a brake cylinder or brake caliper. for evidence of a leak. If you find a leak, try
Check your brake fluid reservoir fluid level. If it tightening the brake line to the caliper or cylinder.
is full, a caliper or drum brake cylinder could be If the leak remains, replace the caliper or cylinder.
failing internally or the master cylinder could be

Chapter 19
Brake pedal feels fine but car takes a long time to stop
When the brake hydraulic system is the pads, shoes, discs and drums. If the
working correctly, the pedal has a firm components are not too old or dried out
feel to it, but if the car still stops slowly and are otherwise in good condition, the
when you apply the brake, the braking components can be reused after sanding
system has a friction problem. Brake off the glaze. Brake glazing often
pads, shoes, discs, and drums sometimes happens with new brake installations.
become “glazed” meaning the heat from Many brake shoe and pad manufacturers
friction bakes the braking material onto burnish or season their products before
the surfaces of the discs, drums, pads, selling them to remove the resins that
and shoes, leaving a shiny slippery cause glazing.
“glaze”. The glaze can be sanded off of
Good new brake pad
Glazed used brake pad

Chapter 19
Brakes work fine for a while but then seem to just stop working
This could be brake fade. Brake fade is covered in the “Braking System” chapter.
Brakes make a squeaking or grinding sound

If your brakes are squeaking, it might mean indicators are scraping your discs warning
they need to have “anti-squeak” paste you that your brake pads need to be
applied to the back of the brake pads. replaced. If you hear your brakes
Sometimes the drums must be removed, squeaking, do not ignore it. Inspect them
and the brake dust that gets trapped inside or have them inspected to keep your vehicle
of the drum needs to be cleaned out. It safe and able to stop.
could also be that your brake wear
Brake Wear indicator
Brake pad
Brake disc
(rotor)
New Pad Worn Pad
disc Brake Quiet

Chapter 19
TROUBLESHOOTING SUSPENSION ISSUES
The suspension includes the tires, working correctly it can create an
bushings, grommets, and springs. uncomfortable ride, a hard-to-control and
Specific components include the shock dangerous vehicle, and will affect the
absorbers or struts, coil springs, and the performance of the brakes. Below are
passenger seats. These components work typical problems that occur with a
together to give you the kind of ride you vehicle’s suspension, the dangers
want for the type of driving you do. associated with these problems, and
When one of these components is not possible solutions.
Ride is too rough or bumpy

Several things can cause a bumpy or rough ride such as road conditions, bad tires, or
worn and out of adjusted suspension parts. To soften a bumpy ride, try some of the
following:
● Adjust the air pressure in the tires within the range specified by the vehicle
manufacturer.
● Purchase tires with a softer rubber compound and a taller sidewall within the limits
of the manufacturer recommended tire size(s) for the vehicle.
● Have softer coil springs installed or install shocks or struts that are less aggressive
within the limits allowed by the vehicle manufacturer.
Ride is too bouncy
When a ride is too bouncy, it might be an indication that the shock absorbers or the
struts need to be replaced. Have them inspected and replace if necessary. Worn shock
absorbers and struts make a vehicle unsafe to drive because it is much easier to lose
control of the vehicle.
“Clunk” sound under the hood when accelerating, letting off the gas, or hitting a
bump
Although there are a variety of issues that could cause a “clunk” sound under the hood
of a car, many times it is a motor mount which you can have your mechanic check.

Chapter 19
Car sags to one side or sits lower than when new
When a car no longer sits as high or as level replacing them. Coil springs can wear out,
as it should, the coil springs may need to be but it is more likely to be a failed shock
replaced. Coil springs do not wear out absorber or strut on one side of the vehicle.
often, so have them inspected before
Vehicle bottoms out when going over bumps in the road
If your vehicle is bottoming out on bumps appropriate speed, and you do not have a
in the road, it might be time for a new set heavy load in your vehicle, the car should
of shocks or struts. If a bump is “normal not bottom out. Have the suspension
size”, a speed bump for example, and you inspected to determine if your shocks and/or
are not speeding, your car should not be struts need to be replaced.
bottoming out. If you are traveling the
Car pulls to one side
If your car is pulling to one side, take note of the see if the wheels turn freely, raise the wheels off
driving conditions when it pulls, and how often. the ground, put the car in neutral, and release the
If it pulls all the time, the first two things to check emergency brake. Rotate wheels by hand to listen
for are proper tire inflation, and uneven tread wear. for grinding and look to see if they all turn freely.
If one of your tires has lost air, the low tire will If one or more wheels are difficult to turn by hand,
cause the car to pull to one side. Inspect the low report this to your mechanic. Sometimes this can
tire for punctures from nails, etc. Inflate to proper help your mechanic more quickly diagnose the
pressure and check to make sure the the tire problem.
maintains the correct pressure.
If the vehicle pulls only when you apply the brakes,
have your brakes and tires inspected. If you notice
uneven tire tread wear, then the car may need a
wheel alignment. If the car pulls to one side, and
the tires are properly inflated, you may need a
wheel alignment. Have your car inspected at a
certified alignment shop.
If your tires are properly inflated and the alignment
is correct but the car still pulls to one side, this
usually means something is keeping one or more
of the wheels from turning freely. This can be a
dragging brake or a worn out bearing. To check to

Chapter 19
POWER STEERING ISSUES
If your power steering pump is making the power steering pump. If the power
noise and/or it is hard to steer, check your steering pump does not make noise and has
power steering fluid (see “Checking Your fluid but it is hard to steer, check the
Fluids” chapter for how to do this). If the condition of the serpentine belt that turns
fluid is low, fill it up to the fill level line. the power steering pump. Make sure it is
If the fluid is full, you may need to replace tight and not dry, cracking, or broken.
THE DRIVE BELTS

The four main components driven by serpentine/drive belts are:
● The alternator
● The air conditioning compressor
● The power steering pump
● The water pump
These components, with exception to the water pump, are almost always powered
by a serpentine belt that is driven by the crankshaft pulley. The water pump is
sometimes driven in some cars by a serpentine belt, and in others by the timing
belt. It is important to understand how these components function in your car and
what to expect if there is a failure of a belt or a component.
Serpentine belts
(aka fan belts
alternator belts)

Chapter 19
THE DRIVE BELTS
The alternator
The job of the alternator is to supply electricity for the car will continue to run, but it will be running
the car to use to fire the spark plugs, run auxiliary off of the battery. As the battery gets weaker and
systems such as the radio or lights, and to recharge weaker, the car will be harder to start, one of the
the battery after the battery is used to start the car headlights may get dimmer than the other, and the
or run auxiliary systems. If the alternator fails or car will eventually stop running and cannot be
the serpentine belt breaks and is no longer turning cranked.
the alternator,
The air conditioning compressor

The air conditioning compressor “adds heat” so the condenser can liquefy the refrigerant so that it can
be used for cooling in the air conditioning system’s evaporator. If the belt that turns the air conditioning
compressor breaks, you will not get any cold air out of your air conditioning system.
The power steering pump

The power steering pump supplies hydraulic force for power assisted steering. If the belt turning the
power steering pump pulley fails, steering will suddenly get very stiff and hard to turn almost like the
steering wheel is locking up; it is actually not locking up, you are just steering manually without power
assistance. You can still steer the car to a safe place to stop, but it will just take more effort.
Alternator belt, fan belt, serpentine belt squeaks

If your engine’s belts are making noise, it is Spraying the belts only makes them slip and
telling you that something is wrong. DO NOT masks the real problem. When a belt squeaks this
spray them with oil or WD-40 to “quiet” them usually means it is either too loose or the bearings
down. This is the worse thing you can do! have failed on one of the pulleys or belt tensioners.
The water pump

The water pump circulates the coolant around the engine to overheat that is not being cooled by the
engine, to the radiator to be cooled, then back to cooling system. It is important to know whether
cool the engine to keep it from overheating. If the your water pump is turned by a serpentine belt or
belt that turns the water pump fails, the car will a timing belt, and whether the belt broke or the
start to overheat very quickly! As soon pump failed.
as it is safe to do so, stop the car, and turn the
engine off. It only takes a few minutes for an

Chapter 19
The Water Pump continued
If your water pump is driven by a much more complicated and expensive job.
serpentine belt and the belt breaks, you can In cars that have water pumps driven by the
probably just replace the belt and you’re timing belt, always have the timing belt and
good to go. If the pump has failed, you will the water pump replaced whenever there is
need to replace it as well as the belt. If your a failure of either one.
pump is driven by the timing belt, it is a
Examples of Water Pumps
turned by serpentine belt
turned by timing belt

Tips and Suggested
Service Schedules
Chapter 20
TIPS AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
The information in this chapter is for reference services. Every car is different, and is at a
only. The times suggested for scheduled different place in its service life. When choosing
maintenance are to be used as a guide and not in a maintenance schedule, consider specific
place of your vehicle’s manufacturer conditions unique to your vehicle.
recommended maintenance schedule and
Things to Consider
1. The climate and terrain 3. Driving style
This could include an extremely hot or cold How the car is driven and the distance the car is
climate, long hills or flat roads, a high elevation, driven can affect how often it needs tune-ups,
or roads along the coast. new brake pads, or oil changes. The engine oil
should be checked regularly and even more
frequently if the car is driven in a “spirited”
manner or taken to the track. Moderate driving
can extend the life of the motor oil, brake pads,
and/or shoes, the wheel bearings, and many other
components. Ultimately, moderate driving can
extend the service life of the car.
4. The vehicle manufacturer
2. The number of miles on a car Some cars are built better than others. If you
have a car that is well built, many times it will
Mileage can greatly contribute to what kind of run many more miles than other cars, and, with
maintenance the vehicle will need. More miles proper maintenance have fewer or no problems.
could mean checking the oil more frequently or Bottom line, it pays to do research before
changing the weight of the oil used if the car is purchasing a car. If you already have a “lemon”,
consuming oil. If the car is consuming oil it it’s never too late to trade up. Sometimes the best
could also mean more frequent tune-ups because thing to do when a car keeps breaking down is
of oil-fouled spark plugs. Some of the tune-ups to replace it.
may only consist of removing and cleaning the
oil fouled spark plugs and reinstalling them. 5. What the vehicle is used for
A car engine works a lot harder pulling a boat
up a hill than it does driving for pleasure along
the coast on Sundays. Consider the load that is
being put on the engine when determining the
best maintenance schedules.
202 Tips & Schedules www.ycccdiy.com

Chapter 20
INDICATIONS OF COMMON PROBLEMS
1. Close visual inspection of the spark plugs can give valuable insight into condition of
the engine. See the “Common Spark Plug Condition Sheet” at the end of this
chapter.
2. If the car is getting hot but the radiator overflow tank reads that the level is full,
check the radiator by removing the radiator cap to check coolant level. If the level is
low in the radiator, a new radiator cap may be needed.
Warning: Always wait until the engine is cool before removing the radiator cap. Hot
coolant is under pressure and will erupt into your face if you remove the cap while the
engine is hot.
3. If the car does not steer straight when you briefly let go of the steering wheel, it is
possible that a wheel alignment is needed, but not always. First check the air pressure
in each tire, and inflate to the pressure marked on the side of the tire; then drive the
car again. If it steers straight, you just might have saved yourself the expense of an
unnecessary wheel alignment. You should have the alignment checked every 2 to 5
years to be sure.
Examples of tire air pressure limits
4. If you notice that one of the headlights is brighter than the other, the alternator may
have failed, and the car may be running on the battery. Take the car to an auto parts
store and have the battery and alternator checked. This service is often free.
www.ycccdiy.com Tips & Schedules 203

5. If you hear the brakes squeaking, this check them. If the pads are not worn
could mean it is time for new brake pads. down to the metal tab, a product like Disc
Some cars have a metal tab that is Brake Quiet might be needed on the back
designed to scrape on the brake disc of the brake pads to quiet them. Disc
when your pads wear to a certain level. Brake Quiet can be found at most auto
Check the brake pads or have a mechanic parts stores.
brake disc
wear tab ”
H!
EEC
R
“SC
Disc Brake Quiet brake wear tab new pad worn pad
Not all brake pads have a metal tab wear sensor. Some cars have electronic wear sensors
that connect to the brake pad and send a signal to the cars computer when the sensor
gets too close to the brake disc. The computer then turns on a brake-wear warning
light on the instrument panel.
brake sensor warning light
brake wear
sensor
wiring harness
connector
brake sensor installed in brake pad brake pad brake sensor

Chapter 20
TIPS AND MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
6. If you notice your gas mileage going down or the car does not seem to have the same
power that it used to have, here are some things you can check that might improve
performance and gas mileage.
● Check the air filter to see if it is clean.

● Check the air pressure in the tires.
● Check the oil level and observe how clean it is.
● Drive the speed limit.
● Use the correct octane fuel.
● Make sure wheels are in alignment.
● Check to see if the car needs a tune-up.
● Turn off the A/C when not needed.
● Drive in the correct gear for your speed (manual transmission).
● Make sure overdrive is turned on (automatic transmission).
● Make sure the brakes are not dragging due to weak or missing brake pad springs,
and make sure the emergency brake is not partially or completely applied.
● Make sure there is not a fuel leak, which you can sometimes smell.
● Check spark plugs for fuel rich. If dull black, see “Common Spark Plug
Condition Sheet” at the end of this chapter.
● Make sure your kid is not “borrowing” you car without your knowledge.
Tip: If you have a major failure of an expensive part on your car, check the Internet to see
if there is a manufacturer recall. You can also call a local dealer and ask if there are
any recalls for your vehicle. This can save you thousands of dollars in repair costs,
but you usually have to ask to find out.

Chapter 20
SUGGESTED MINIMUM CHECK SCHEDULE
The following are suggestions for when to perform different types of maintenance procedures. The
actual needs of each car vary depending on the condition of the car and how it is used.
Item to Check How Often to Check

air pressure in the tires every three months
the engine oil depends on engine condition; see #2 below
radiator coolant at least once a month
brake fluid at least every three months
power steering fluid at least once a year
spark plugs at least once a year
brake pads and shoes at least once a year
automatic transmission fluid every three months
PCV valve (if equipped) every other year
1. Check the PCV valve when you do a tune-up axle-opposite of wherever the engine is locat-
or at least every other year. Take it off and ed.
shake it, and, if it rattles, usually that means
it’s ok. Any sticking or no rattle, replace it. 3. If the vehicle is newer (less than 100,000
miles) and you use high grade, synthetic oil,
2. Change the oil at least once every 3,000 to you may be able to go 7,000 miles or more
7,000 miles depending on how old the car is, between oil changes. On average that means
how it is driven, and the kind of oil that is used. an oil change every 6 months.
Always change the oil at least once a year. For
manual transmissions don’t forget to change If the vehicle is older (over 100,000 miles) and
your transmission gear oil every 30,000 - you use less expensive oil, you may want to
50,000 miles. The differential oil should be change your oil every 3,000 or 4,000 miles.
changed at the same time and is required in That would be about every 90 to 120 days (3
manual and automatic rear-wheel-drive or 4- or 4 months). Sometimes using a heavier
wheel drive vehicles. If your car is a weight oil can help with oil consumption and
front-wheel-drive, it does not have a differen- help the oil last longer. Ask your local auto
tial. Some all-wheel-drive vehicles have the parts specialist about the proper oil for your
differential on the rear axle or on the front needs.

Chapter 20
SUGGESTED MINIMUM SERVICE SCHEDULE
1. Clean and gap or change the spark plugs every 40,000 – 50,000 miles.
2. Have the timing belt changed every 100,000 miles. If the car has a timing chain
it may never need to be changed. Changing a timing belt or chain is a very
advanced procedure and should only be done by an experienced mechanic.
3. Serpentine belts should be changed every 50,000 miles.
4. Clean or change the air filter at least once a year. Only try to clean the air filter
if it is a serviceable filter; otherwise, change it.
5. Inspect the tire tread at least once every 6 months.
6. Have the wheel alignment checked each time the tires are replaced. That
should be about every two to five years depending on tread wear.
7. Change the radiator cap every 2 to 5 years. This is the best part to replace first
if a coolant leak is suspected.
8. Change the coolant every 2 or 3 years. Check the manufacturer’s
recommendation for type and frequency as requirements vary.

Chapter 20
AUTO PARTS STORES
Over the years I have used many auto parts stores for parts and advice on vehicles
I have serviced or repaired. The following list consists of the stores that I found
to be the most helpful and the ones which I continue to use and recommend.
1. O’Reilly Auto Parts - any car type (916) 685-1575

http://www.oreillyauto.com/
2. Foreign Parts Specialties - Japanese and European (916) 453-8575

6501 Elvas Ave., Sacramento, CA 95819
3. AutoZone - any car type (916) 690-8252

http://www.autozone.com/
4. Napa Auto parts - any car type (916) 421-8601

http://www.napaonline.com/
5. CARQUEST - any car type (916) 392-3033

http://www.carquest.com/
6. Pep Boys - any car type (916) 392-3131
The provided store numbers are for the local Sacramento area. Some of these stores have
multiple locations and may have a location closer to you than the location for the number
provided. The number is provided for your convenience. Be sure to check the Internet or
call and ask for the store nearest you.

COMMON SPARK PLUG CONDITIONS
Ash Deposits
New Used Normal
Appearance: Light gray and/or golden brown. Appearance: White to light brown clumpy deposits on
Cause: Good clean running engine. The correct plug one or both positive and negative electrodes.
at the correct heat range for the engine, and there are no Cause: Running lean, not enough fuel for the amount of air.
ignition problems. Solution: Check oil consumption, could be burning
Solution: This is a good plug to continue using or to use small amounts of oil. Check air filter for break
as a reference for its specs. through damage. Check for clogged fuel injector(s)
Too Hot Oil Deposits
Appearance: Eroded electrode, no deposits, chalky white, Appearance: Shiny oily deposits all over both electrodes,
blistered from heat; coupled with frequent plug failure. black coat completely covering insulation.
Cause: Combustion taking place at the wrong temperature. Cause: Oil is being burned in the combustion chamber.
Solution: Check heat range of plug, check ignition timing, Solution: A large oil leak past the piston rings and or
check for vacuum leaks, check thermostat and engine the valve seals may require engine overhaul. Replace
temperature, do compression test to check for stuck valves. plugs with new.
Carbon Deposits
Pre-ignition
Appearance: Dry black soot on electrode. Appearance: Electrode may be cracked or melted,
Cause: running fuel rich and/or weak ignition, is not burning insulator covered with ashy white deposit, may show
fuel completely. Engine running fuel rich, burning too much damage from broken pieces of electrode.
fuel. Cause: Spark plug firing too soon.
Solution: Check fuel pressure, check spark plug heat Solution: Check spark plug gap, heat range and OEM
range, clean air filter, check for clogged fuel injector, plug brand, advanced timing, and lean fuel mixture and
clean ignition component contacts. overheating.
Mechanical Damage
Knocking and Pinging
Appearance: Electrode is bent, crushed or broken.

Appearance: Insulation may be cracked or broken, Pieces may be missing, gap smashed shut or insulation
electrode may be broken or worn. shattered.
Cause: Irregular fuel ignition and/or excessive heat Cause: Something has hit the spark plug. Wrong length
Solution: Check ignition timing, check spark plug gap spark plug. Mechanical problem inside engine.
and damage, check fuel octane, downshift when there Solution: Remove any broken pieces or debris,
is a heavy load on the engine. repair engine & replace plugs.
209
ADDITIONAL READING
The following are a few of the books that I own, use, and recommend as excellent
additional tools to add to your knowledge bank of automotive information. You can
never have too many good books, and these are books that can help you immensely as
you venture into more advanced projects.
101 Performance Projects for BMW All of the Service manuals by

101 Performance Projects for Porsche Bentley Publishers that I have seen
are excellent. Look up the one for
by Wayne R. Dempsey of Pelican your vehicle and continue your
Parts. Wayne has written many other journey.
books as well, check them all out at
www.pelicanparts.com
Vehicle manufacturer service manuals.

Haynes is another good source of This final group of books is often the
vehicle specific information. These most expensive but offers very official
manuals are very well written, clear, and accurate information for your
easy to understand, and fairly vehicle. Many manufacturers no
inexpensive. Although there may longer sell these manuals to the public
be some in color, I have only seen for their new vehicles, but many older
these manuals in black and white. models still have books available.
210
Appendix A: Basic Tools
air pressure gauge
air pump
breaker bar
C-clamp
code reader
www.ycccdiy.com Basic Tools 211

extension
feeler gauge
flashlight
funnel
fuse remover
212 Basic Tools www.ycccdiy.com

hammer
jack (floor)
jack (scissor)
jack stands
micrometer

pliers (channel locks)
pliers (needle-nose)
pliers (regular)
ratchet
ratchet breaker bar

(telescoping)

safety glasses
screw driver (flat head)
screwdriver (phillips)
spark plug socket
timing light

tire iron
vernier caliper
vice-grips
wheel chocks
wire cutter

wrench (adjustable)
wrench (allen)
wrench (oil filter)
wrench (box/open-end)
wrench (torque)

Glossary
of
Terms
Glossary
YCC YCCC
Appendix B: Glossary
Air filter: Removes dust and other particles Brake drum: The friction surface that the brake
from the outside air before allowing it into the shoes press against to stop the car.
combustion chamber.
Brake fluid: A hydraulic liquid that is forced
Alternator: Is an electrical generator turned by through tubes to move a cylinder that presses
a serpentine belt. It converts mechanical energy brake pads against brake disk, and brake shoes
to electricity to supply spark for the ignition against brake drums to apply the brake.
system, charge the battery, and run other
electrical systems while the car is running. Brake lines: Metal tubing that carries the brake
fluid from the master cylinder to the brake
Antifreeze: Is the engine coolant. It also has a cylinders in drum brakes and to the calipers in
lower freezing point to resist freezing while disk brakes
sitting in the water-jacket surrounding the engine
to prevent cracking the engine block. Brake master cylinder: When pressed by the
Battery: Supplies the electricity needed to turn brake pedal, sends brake fluid through the brake
the starter and start the car. It can also run other lines to the slave cylinder.
electrical systems for a short time while the car
is not running. It is recharged by the alternator Brake pads: Apply friction to the brake disk
when the car starts. when the brake pedal is pressed.
Bearing: A lubricated smooth hard surface Brake shoes: Apply friction to the brake drums
usually flat, cylindrical, or spherical contained when the brake pedal is pressed.
in a race that allows hubs, axles and wheels to
rotate freely with reduced friction. Brake slave cylinder: Cylinder that receives
Belt fan: "Fan belt" is an old term used for the brake fluid from the master cylinder and actuates
serpentine belt. (see serpentine belt) the brake caliper which presses the brake pads
against the brake disk.
Belt serpentine: A grooved belt used to turn the
alternator, radiator fan, air conditioner and other Bushing: Similar to the job of a grommet,
parasitic systems of the car. located between metal parts and serves to
cushion the contact between the parts.
Belt timing: Coordinates the crank shaft and the
cam shaft(s). Caliper: Part of the disc brake system that
applies friction to the disc to cause slowing of
Brake caliper: Holds the brake pads on either the vehicle.
side of the brake disk and squeezes the disc when
the brake is applied Caliper cylinder: located inside the caliper,
presses the bake pads against the brake disc.
Brake disc: The friction surface that the brake
pads press against to stop the car .
220 Glossary www.ycccdiy.com

Cam lobe: An eccentric lobe that depresses Cylinder: Also known as the "Combustion
valves to open and close them to allow intake air Chamber", it is where the fuel explodes to
in, and exhaust gases out of the combustion produce power.
chamber.
Cylinder head: Where air, fuel, and exhaust
Camshaft: A shaft with multiple cam lobes along gases are allowed to enter and exit the combustion
its length. chamber at the appropriate times to keep the
engine running.
Carburetor: Distributes air and fuel to the
cylinders through the intake manifold. Dipstick: Calibrated stick used to measure oil and
other vehicle fluids.
Catalytic converter: The component of the
emissions system that converts harmful exhaust DOT: Department of Transportation. U.S.
to N2, O2, CO2 and H2O. transportation regulatory agency.
Clutch: Engages and disengages the engine from Differential: Converts the direction of rotation
the transmission. of the drive shaft to the direction of rotation of
the wheels.
Clutch fluid: A fluid forced through the clutch
lines to operate the clutch slave cylinder which Disc brake: The friction surface that the caliper
disengages the clutch. Clutch fluid is the same presses the brake pads against to stop the car.
as brake fluid.
Drive train: The components of the car that
Combustion chamber: Also referred to as a contribute to transmitting the power from the
"Cylinder", it is the chamber in which the fuel engine to the wheels. (i.e. transmission, clutch,
explodes to produce power. drive shafts etc.)
Coolant: Circulates through the engine and out Drum brake: The friction surface that the brake
to the radiator to keep the engine from cylinder presses the brake shoes against to stop
overheating. Coolant is also antifreeze that resists the car.
freezing to prevent cracking the engine block.
ECU: Engine or electronic Control Unit
Crank pulley: The main pulley of the engine. EGR valve: A valve that allows a small amount
Serpentine belts are driven by the crank pulley to of exhaust gas to re-enter the combustion chamber
power all other engine components such as the in order to cool the combustion process and
alternator, water pump, etc. reduce NOx.
Crankshaft: A weighted shaft that runs down the Engine: A machine that combusts fuel to run. An
center of the engine block. It is powered by engine is not a "motor"; motors are electric.
pistons that are connected to the crankshaft by
connecting rods.
www.ycccdiy.com Glossary 221

EVAP: Evaporative Emissions. Fuel sending unit: Transmits the fuel level in
the gas tank to the gas gauge in the instrument
Engine block: Houses the crankshaft and panel on the dashboard.
cylinders.
Fuel tank: A storage container for a vehicle’s
Fan belt(s): AKA serpentine belt(s). on-board fuel.
Connecting units that drive the engine’s auxiliary
components such as the alternator and water Fuse: Protects the electrical circuits and
pump. components by being the weak link in the circuit.
It burns out when too much electricity enters the
Flywheel: Large diameter gear bolted directly system, this disconnects the circuit.
to the engine used by the starter to crank the
engine for starting. In manual transmissions it is Fuse box: Compartment housing the fuses that
massive to assist in dampening engine vibrations. protect the electrical circuits and components of
In automatic transmissions the torque converter the vehicle.
is attached to it.
Gasoline: Liquid fuel used in an internal
Freeze plugs: Located on the engine block, combustion engine.
designed to pop out if the antifreeze freezes.
This prevents the engine block from being Grommet: Similar to bushings, used to protect
cracked. adjacent metal parts. They are usually made of
a non-metal material.
Fuel filter: Removes impurities from the fuel
before it goes into the fuel injectors. Harmonic balancer: A weight included with
the crankshaft pulley to dampen the vibrations
Fuel injector: Sends a calibrated amount of fuel of the pistons going up and down.
into the combustion chamber at a specific time.
Injection is controlled by the onboard Head gasket: The seal between the mating
computer. surfaces of the cylinder head and the engine
block.
Fuel pressure regulator: Controls how much
fuel pressure the fuel pump is allowed to apply Heater core: A small radiator located under the
to the system. dash. Hot coolant circulates through its pipes and
a blower fan blows air across the pipes to supply
Fuel pump: An electric or mechanical pump that heat for the occupants.
supplies fuel to the injectors or carburetor.
Heater fan: A fan that blows air across the
Fuel pump screen: Protects the fuel pump from heater core to move heat into the vehicle
contaminates that may have gotten into the fuel passenger compartment warming the occupants.
tank.

Hub: The hub is the center piece at the end of the driven by electricity; it is not the same as an
axle on a vehicle where the brakes and wheels are "engine".
attached. It contains the bearings that allow the Motor mount: Specialized grommets on which
wheels to rotate. the engine is mounted that both support the engine
and dampen engine vibrations from being
Idle: The speed at which the engine runs when transmitted to the vehicle's frame.
the accelerator is not being pressed.
NOx: Nitrogen Oxide air pollutants.
Ignition coil: An electricity amplifier that
increases the electric voltage from the alternator OBD: On Board Data. Vehicle performance
giving the spark plugs a strong spark to ignite the information stored on the vehicle's computer.
fuel.
Octane rating: The measure of a fuel’s ability to
Ignition switch: The key or button that starts the ignite. The higher the octane the more difficult it
car. is for the fuel to burn. Only high compression
engines need high octane fuel. This prevents
Incandescent: A low efficiency light bulb pre-ignition or detonation.
configuration that, unlike LED bulbs, generates a
large amount of heat. Oil (engine): The liquid that lubricates and
sometimes helps to cool an engine.
Jack stand: Strong stable support designed to
hold a vehicle when elevated. Oil filter: Removes contaminates from the engine
LED: Light Emitting Diode. A very efficient low oil to protect the engine.
energy consumption light bulb, unlike an
incandescent light bulb. Oil plug : The bolt at the base of the oil pan that
is removed to release the oil when performing an
Lug nuts: The bolts or nuts that hold the wheels oil change.
and tire on the hub.
Oil pump: Pressurized the engine oil and
MAF: Mass Airflow Meter. Monitors the amount circulates from the oil pan to the top of the
of air entering the engine and reports to the engine engine.
control unit or computer.
Master cylinder: The component of a hydraulic

brake or clutch system that forces the brake fluid
into the slave cylinders.
Motor: An example of a motor on a car is the

starter or an electric fuel pump. A motor is usually

PCV valve: Positive Crank-Case Ventilation RPM: Revolutions Per Minute
valve. Routes exhaust gases that slip past the
piston rings into the crank case back into the Serpentine drive belt: A multi-grooved high
combustion chamber to be burned. friction drive belt used to power engine
components such as the alternator, the power
Piston: The piston is in the combustion chamber steering, and the A/C compressor. Belts are
cylinder and is forced down by the explosion in driven by the crankshaft pulley.
the combustion chamber. A rod connects the
piston to the crankshaft which is rotated by the Slave cylinder: The cylinder in the braking or
force. clutch system that actuates the brakes or
disengages the clutch. The fluid that powers the
Piston rod: A metal alloy or composite rod that slave cylinder comes from the master cylinder.
connects the piston to the crankshaft.
Power steering fluid: Fluid in the power Spark plug: A component of the ignition system
steering system that is used to assist with making that that ignites the fuel in the combustion
steering easier. chamber.
Radiator: Where heat is removed from the Spark plug gap: The small space, (i.e. .035"),
coolant/antifreeze. The coolant is then re- between the positive and negative electrodes on
circulated through the engine to keep it cool. a spark plug between which a spark "jumps" to
ignite the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. The
Radiator cap: Located on the radiator, it is a space varies between vehicles.
very important and often overlooked component
of the cooling system that maintains the required Spark plug wires: Make the connection between
pressure to keep the engine cool. the ignition coil and the spark plugs. Some
vehicles with multiple coils have connectors
Radiator fan: Blows air across the radiator to instead of wires; they serve the same purpose.
remove heat from the coolant before it is re-
circulated back to the engine. Sprocket: A gear usually transmitting or
receiving power from a belt or chain.
Radiator hose: Hoses that connect the radiator
to the engine. The water pump circulates the
coolant around the engine, through the hoses, and
back to the radiator.
Rim: What the tire is mounted on to be placed
on the car; also called a wheel.
Rotor cap: AKA distributor cap, houses the rotor

and where the spark plug wires are plugged on a
single coil ignition system.

Starter: An electric motor that starts the engine Vacuum line: Hoses, pipes, and tubing connected
when the ignition switch is engaged. to the intake manifold and routed to different parts
Suspension: The springs, shocks, and other parts of the engine to perform tasks with vacuum
on a vehicle that cushion the ride from bumps in suction.
the road.
Valves (exhaust): Valves mounted in the cylinder
Thermostat: Temperature actuated control valve head that allow exhaust gases to escape the
that maintains the required amount of coolant flow combustion chamber through the exhaust
based on the temperature of the coolant. manifold and out the exhaust pipe.
Valves (intake): Valves mounted in the cylinder
Timing belt: Coordinates the rotational position head that allow clean air and fuel into the
of the crankshaft and the camshaft. combustion chamber for burning.
Tire: Tires are mounted on the rims and allow the
car to roll. Water jacket: A space around the cylinder head
and combustion chambers that the coolant
Tire iron: A wrench-like tool used to remove the circulates through to keep the engine cool.
wheels from a vehicle.
Water pump: Circulates the coolant around the
Torque wrench: A specialized wrench calibrated engine block and through the radiator.
to control how tightly nuts and bolts are torqued.
Wheel: What the tire is mounted on so the car can
roll.
Transmission: A collection of gears configured
to transmit the power of the engine to the wheels Wheel chock: Stabilizing device placed on the
of a vehicle. The transmission changes gears to ground in front of and behind the tires of a vehicle
keep the engine from running too fast or working to prevent the vehicle from rolling.
too hard.
Transmission filter: A filter often inside the

automatic transmission that removes contaminates
to protect the transmission.
Transmission fluid: Specialized hydraulic fluid

used to actuate the internal valves and cylinders
of an automatic transmission.
Transmission oil: Gear oil used to lubricate the

internal components of a manual transmission.

Index
Index
INDEX
4-cylinder engine, 15 belt fan, 17, 19, 81, 198, 199, 220
6-cylinder engine, 15 belt serpentine, 17, 19, 20, 29, 81, 82, 198, 199,
224
8-cylinder engine, 15 belt squeal/squeak, 199
A belt timing, 12, 18-20, 198-200, 207, 225

air conditioning compressor, 17, 19, 198, 199 belt-driven components, 10, 17, 19, 198, 221
air intake, 184, 185 black smoke, 184, 192
air pressure, 59, 196, 203, 205, 206, 211 blown head gasket, 49, 88, 192
air sensor, 139 box end wrench, 106, 132, 138, 166, 217
alignment, 59, 193, 197, 203, 205 Brake, caliper, 61, 62, 64, 68-72, 165, 167, 193,
220
alternator, 17, 19, 28-34, 81, 113, 118, 145, 189, cleaner, 167, 177, 179
199
alternator belt, 198, 199 brake, cylinder, 61,62,64,65 193, 220
alternator failure, 34, 82 disc, 61, 167, 193, 195, 204, 220
antifreeze, 220, 221 drum, 61,62,64,68,69, 172, 174-180, 220
anti-squeal paste, 167 end cap, 175
atomize, 40 fade, 68-72, 195
automatic transmission, 22, 76, 78, 86, 97, 113, fluid, 24, 62-65, 69, 85, 90, 193, 206, 220
225
automatic transmission fluid, 76, 86, 206 fluid cap, 90
auxiliary engine components, 10, 17, 221 fluid fade, 69
axle, 9, 25, 206, 220 fluid reservoir, 62, 64, 65, 90, 193
B friction fade, 68
battery, 19, 28-34, 80-82, 106-109, 112-121, 134 green fade, 70
battery cable(s), 80, 107, 116, 119, 121, 128, 134, light switch, 65, 66
189
battery charger(s), 112, 113, 120 lights, 65, 66
battery terminal(s), 108, 116-119, 121, 134, 138 line(s), 62-65, 69, 165-167, 193, 220
belt alternator, 198, 199 master cylinder, 62-65, 90, 91, 220
228 Index www.ycccdiy.com

INDEX
master cylinder reservoir, 90, 91 changing a battery, 107
mechanical fade, 68 changing a fuse, 128
pads, 60, 68-72, 166-168, 194, 195, 202, 220 charging system, 28-30
pedal, 63, 65, 66, 69, 169, 193, 220 chocks, 67, 79, 81, 94, 95, 97, 103, 148, 151, 156,
163
plate, 175, 177 clunk sound, 196
power booster, 65 clutch, 24, 91, 113, 189, 221
sensor, 204 fluid, 24, 85, 91, 221
shoe retainer cap, 178 fluid reservoir, 24, 91
shoe return spring, 176-179 master cylinder, 24, 91
shoe(s), 60-62, 68, 69, 174-180, 194, 220 slave cylinder, 24, 221
slave cylinder, 64, 220 code reader, 141, 183, 190, 211
wear sensor, 204 coil electrical connector, 135
burnish, 70, 71, 194 coil springs, 196, 197
bushings, 193, 196, 222 coil(s), 29, 32, 113, 133, 135,141, 183, 188, 190,
223
C combustion chamber, 10-16, 28, 29, 40, 184, 188,
221
caliper, 61-72, 165-168, 193, 220 connecting rod, 13, 14, 221
brake, 61-72, 165-168, 193, 220 coolant, 20, 44-49, 81, 82, 85, 88, 192, 199, 203,
221
cylinder, 168, 220 coolant overflow tank, 88
frame, 165-168 cooling fan, 44, 47, 48, 220, 224
cam lobe, 39, 221 crank pulley, 16, 221
camshaft lobe(s), 221 crankshaft, 12-17, 221
camshaft sprocket, 12 crankshaft pulley, 17, 19, 29, 140, 198, 222, 224
camshaft(s), 11-13, 18, 221 crankshaft sprocket, 12
carburetor, 142, 186, 187, 221 cylinder head, 10-13, 18, 39, 46, 54, 136, 192, 221
catalytic converter, 142, 221
www.ycccdiy.com Index 229

INDEX
D components, 10, 17, 19, 198, 221
dead battery, 113-121 configuration, 12, 183
differential, 8, 9, 25, 86, 87, 206, 221 coolant, 20, 44-49, 81, 85, 88, 192, 199, 220
differential oil, 9, 25, 86, 87, 206 oil, 52, 84, 85, 94-103, 202, 223
dipstick, 23, 55, 85, 86, 102, 221 EVAP system, 38, 222
disc brakes, 60-69, 162-169, 195, 204, 220, 221 exhaust, 13, 142
distributor, 29, 32, 33, 133-135, 140, 144, 183, gas, 142, 221
224
distributor cap, 29, 133, 134, 140, 144, 190, 224 pipe, 192, 225
DOT, 63, 69, 72, 90, 221 valve(s), 13-16
downshift, 71, 209 F
drain pan, 95, 100, 103 fan belt, 199, 220, 222
drain plug, 25, 53, 87, 95, 99, 192 flat-6, 15
drive pinion, 9, 25 flathead screw driver, 177, 215
driveshaft, 8, 9, 25 float carbureted, 183, 187
drivetrain, 8, 25 floor jack, 95, 98, 148-153, 213
drum, 60-63, 68-70, 162, 172-180 fluid fade, 69
drum brake cylinder, 193 flywheel, 16, 17, 28, 32, 222
drum brakes, 60-63, 68-70, 162, 172-180 freeze plug, 222
E friction fade, 68
ECM, Engine Control Module, 184, 186, 187, 191 fuel, 11-16, 28, 29, 36-41, 85, 91, 133, 139, 183-
192
ECU, Engine Control Units, 29, 139, 184-187, 191 filter, 36-40, 186, 187, 191, 222
EGR valve, 142, 143 injection system, 37

electric fuel pump, 37, 39, 186, 222 injection system, 37
emergency brake, 67, 78, 107, 158, 178, 180, 205 injector(s), 13, 36-41, 91, 186, 187, 192, 209,
222
engine, 8-20 line(s), 36, 40, 41

INDEX
pressure regulator, 36, 37, 41, 192, 222 grommets, 196, 220, 222, 223
problems, 186, 187 ground wire, 80, 116, 188
pump, 36-41, 186, 187, 191, 222 H
pump assembly, 39 harmonic balancer, 16, 17, 140, 222
pump fuse, 187, 191 head gasket, 49, 88, 192, 222
pump relay, 187 headlight, 19, 31, 34, 124-126, 189, 199, 203
pump screen, 37, 39, 222 heater core, 46, 49, 88, 222
return line(s), 37, 41 horsepower, 17
sending unit, 37-39, 187, 222 hub, 61, 62, 159, 165, 175, 220, 223
supply line(s), 37, 41 hydraulic control unit, 22
tank, 36-41, 91, 186, 191, 222 cylinder, 61
fuse, 124-129, 187, 191, 212, 222 fill screw, 149, 152
fuse box, 128, 222 floor jack, 148, 150, 153
fuse types, 129 fluid, 24, 149, 152
G pressure chamber, 149, 193

gas cap, 37, 38, 186 ram, 149, 152
gas gauge, 37, 39, 91, 187, 222 valve body, 22
gas mileage (reduced), 40, 144, 184-188, 205 I
gasket, 49, 88, 100, 101, 192, 222 idle, 40, 118, 141, 144, 186, 223
gasoline, 37, 222 ignition, 28-34, 58, 113, 120, 186, 191, 223
gear oil, 9, 25, 86, 87, 206, 225 coil, 29, 32, 113, 133, 183, 188, 190, 191, 223
gears, 8, 9, 22, 25, 28, 224 key, 28, 31, 36, 223
glazed pads, 60, 194 switch, 28, 32, 33, 188, 191, 223
good battery, 117-119 system, 28-34, 58, 113, 120, 186, 188, 190
green fade, 70 timing, 133, 140, 209

INDEX
intake, 13-16, 133, 139, 142, 184, 221, 225 mechanical fade, 68
intake valve(s), 11, 13, 14, 16, 225 mechanical fuel pump, 39
internal combustion engine, 19, 37, 183, 222 mini jump-starter, 113, 114
J motor mounts, 196, 223

jack, 78-81, 94, 98, 148-154, 213 multi-coil ignition system, 33, 135
jack stand, 98, 150, 153, 157, 159, 223 N
jump start, 112-121 negative battery terminal, 116-118, 134, 138
jumper cables, 116, 121, NOx, 142, 221, 223
L O
leaks, 81, 142, 185, 191-193, 205, 209 OBDI & OBDII, 223
lever arm, 39 octane, 205, 209, 223
light bulb access, 126 oil, change, 95-101, 206, 223
light bulbs, 125-127, 223 fill cap, 103
light fixture, 125-127 filter, 52, 54, 55, 94-104, 192, 223
low air pressure, 59 filter gasket, 100, 101
lug nut, 157, 159, 164 filter wrench, 94, 95, 100, 217
lug tightening order, 159, 169 journals, 53
lug wrench (tire iron), 156, 157, 216 pan, 53-55, 95, 99, 192, 223
M plug bolt, 99, 223

MAF - Mass Air Flow Meter, 132, 139, 184, 192, pump, 52, 54, 223
223
MAF cleaner, 139 on-board data (OBD), 38, 183, 223
magnetic spark plug socket, 136, 215 open end wrench, 94, 95, 132, 166, 217
manifold, 138, 146, 184, 185, 221, 225 operating temperature, 45, 47, 76
manual transmission, 9, 22, 25, 86, 87, 113, 205, o-rings, 100
225
master cylinder, 24, 62, 64, 65, 90, 91, 193, 220, overflow tank, 49, 82, 88, 203
223

INDEX
P disc, 69, 165, 195
parking brake, 67, 85, 97, 134, 157, 163, 173 RPM, 118, 119, 224
PCV valve, 138, 206, 224 rubber gasket, 101
piston connecting rod, 13, 14, 221 S
piston(s), 13-17, 221, 222, 224 safety, 73-82, 94, 95
port fuel injected, 37, 183 safety glasses, 84, 95, 106, 112, 132, 190, 215
portable jump starter, 81, 112, 113, 114 scissor jack, 94, 98, 148, 153, 157, 213
portable mini jump starter, 113, 114 scissor jack worm screw, 153, 154
positive battery terminal, 116, 117, 121 seasoned brakes, 70, 194
power steering, 17, 19, 20, 198 self adjusting slack adjuster, 176-179
cap, 90 serpentine belt, 17, 19, 20, 81, 82, 198-200, 207,
222
fluid, 85, 90, 198, 206, 224 shock absorber, 165, 196, 197
pump, 17, 19, 20, 198, 199 slack adjuster blade, 177-179
R slack adjuster spring, 176-178

radiator, 20, 44-49, 81, 82, 88, 192, 199, 203, 224 slack adjuster wheel, 179
cap, 45, 48, 49, 82, 88, 192, 203, 207, 224 slant-6, 15
fan, 44-49, 220, 224 slave cylinders, 24, 64, 220, 221, 223, 224
hose, 45, 224 smoke, 184, 192
overflow tank, 203 smoke or steam, 192
ratchet, 94, 106, 132, 138, 214 spark(s), 29, 78, 115, 117, 133, 183-191, 220
return electronic fuel injection, 37 spark plug, 11, 16, 29, 33, 82, 113, 133-138, 209,
224
rim, 160, 224 socket, 132, 136, 215
rotor, 69, 133, 144, 165, 195 wires, 134, 136, 138, 144, 190, 224
cap, 144, 224 spark plugs - black, 184, 209
cap terminals, 144 spark plugs - white ashy, 209

INDEX
starter, 17, 19, 28, 30-32, 80, 116, 188, 189, 225 tread wear, 59, 82, 197, 207
starter solenoid, 80 tune-up, 132-146, 191, 202, 205
straight-6, 15 turbo charged, 183, 184
strut(s), 196, 197 U
supercharge, 183, 184 universal joint (U-joint), 9, 25, 152
suspension, 196, 197, 225 upper return springs, 176, 177, 179
T V
tachometer, 118 V-6, 15, 183
taillight, 124-127 V-8, 15, 183
tailpipe, 192 vacuum line(s), 65, 140, 142, 225
thermostat, 45, 47, 48, 209, 225 valve cover, 138, 192
throttle, 132, 133, 139, 142, 183-185, 191, 192 valve seals, 192, 209
throttle body, 133, 139, 142, 183, 192 ventilation, 75, 138, 224
timing, 12, 133, 140, 209 W
timing belt, 12, 18-20, 198-200, 207, 225 washer, 95, 99, 100
timing chain, 12, 18, 207 water jacket, 46-49, 220, 225
timing cover, 140 water pump, 17, 19, 20, 46-49, 82, 198-200, 221,
225
tire, 58, 61, 79, 82, 97, 156-160, 196, 197, 203, wheel, 8, 61, 67, 78, 79, 150, 156-160, 163, 164,
225 225
tire iron, 156-159, 162, 172, 216, 225 alignment, 197, 203, 207
tire air pressure, 59, 196, 203, 205, 206, 211 chocks, 67, 79, 81, 94, 97, 103, 151, 163, 216
torque wrench, 158, 225 hub, 61
transmission, 8, 9, 16, 17, 22-25, 87, 113, 205, 225 rotation, 9, 25
transmission fluid, 22, 23, 76, 85, 86, 192, 206, windshield washer fluid, 85, 89
225
transmission oil (see also gear oil), 85, 87, 225 windshield washer spray tips, 89
tread, 59, 82, 197, 207 windshield washer tank, 89

YOUTUBE VIDEO INDEX
Chapters and Topic Video Code
1 How the Engine Works CCCHOW100
2 How the Transmission Works CCCHOW500
3 The Ignition and Charging Systems CCCHOW200
4 The Fuel System CCCHOW900
5 The Cooling System CCCHOW300
6 Engine Lubrication System CCCHOW400
7 The Braking Systems CCCHOW600
8 Safety First CCCSAFETY100
9 Check Your Fluids CCCDIY1000
10 How to Change the Engine Oil CCCDIY300, 310
11 How to Change Your Battery CCCDIY1100
12 How to Jump Start a Car CCCSAFETY600
13 How to Change a Light Bulb CCCDIY800
14 How to Change a Fuse CCCDIY810
15 The Tune-up CCCDIY350
16 How to use a Jack CCCSAFETY300
17 How to Change a Tire CCCSAFETY500
18 Disc Brake Job CCCDIY100
19 Drum Brake Job CCCDIY200
Please browse the channel to view many more videos.

www.ycccdiy.com Video Index 235
YCCC
YCCC
YCCC
Scan for
Video
Some of the fun and easy-to-learn topics include:
● Essential safety practices ● Disc and drum brake job

● How the cooling system works ● Step by step tune-up guide
● How the ignition system works ● Comprehensive troubleshooting
● How the braking system works ● Procedure for changing motor oil
● How to jumpstart a car ● How to check your fluids
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Car Care Companion Guide

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Car Care Companion Guide

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KEEP YOUR

Your Car Care

Supported with YouTube Videos

Your Car Care Companion

Published by Author 2015

Copyright © 2015 by Clint E. Hightower

Introduction Chapter 5 - The Cooling System

HOW IT WORKS Chapter 6 - The Lubrication System

Chapter 9 - Checking Your Fluids Chapter 12 - Jump Starting a Car

Do it Yourself (DIY) Tips and Maintenance Schedules

Chapter 16 - Changing a Tire Chapter 20 - Tips and Schedules

Chapter 18 - Drum Brake Job Index ……………………………. 228

Clint Hightower earned a Bachelor of Science

Clint has serviced, maintained, modified and

Over the years Clint has helped many

for his assistance with acquiring vehicles and

The most important topic in this guide is

How the Engine Works YouTube Video Code

8 The Engine www.ycccdiy.com

www.ycccdiy.com The Engine 9

THE PARTS OF AN ENGINE

1. The Cylinder Head

2. The Engine Block

3. The Engine Components

10 The Engine www.ycccdiy.

www.ycccdiy.com The Engine 11

THE CYLINDER HEAD IN RELATION TO THE ENGINE BLOCK

cylinder head camshafts

12 The Engine www.ycccdiy.

piston connecting rod

www.ycccdiy.com The Engine 13

crankshaft inside engine block

14 The Engine www.ycccdiy.

ENGINE BLOCK TYPES AND CONFIGURATIONS

www.ycccdiy.com The Engine 15

16 The Engine www.ycccdiy.

crankshaft pulley flywheel

www.ycccdiy.com The Engine 17

The alternator supplies electricity that:

1. fires the spark plugs

THE AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR

The air conditioning compressor conditioning compressor breaks, you will

www.ycccdiy.com The Engine 19

THE WATER PUMP

20 The Engine www.ycccdiy.

YouTube Video Code

automatic manual or stick

hydraulic valve body transmission fluid torque converter

22 The Transmission www.ycccdiy.com

clean transmission fluid dirty transmission fluid

Warning: Having too much Low cold

www.ycccdiy.com The Transmission 23

clutch slave cylinder Note: The slave cylinder usually goes

24 The Transmission www.ycccdiy.com

removing differential drain plug filling differential with gear oil

The Ignition and Charging YouTube Video Code

The primary function of the battery is to crank the starter to start

28 Ignition and www.ycccdiy.com

5. The ignition coil(s).

6. The distributor cap and engine control unit (ECU) or computer.

Some cars have a distributor cap controlled

www.ycccdiy.com Ignition and Charging 29

1. The battery. 2. The alternator.

30 Ignition and Charging www.ycccdiy.com