Book 1 System 2016

Copyright © 2006-2016 Ozzie Freedom Water4Gas™ Book 1: BUILD THE SYSTEM
Ozzie Freedom
“BUILD THE SYSTEM” – Book ❶ of ❷

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com 1
Water4Gas™ Book 1: BUILD THE SYSTEM Copyright © 2006-2016 Ozzie Freedom
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You must read this page carefully as it governs the legal relationships between you and the
Author of this book. The views, ideas and information provided in this book represent
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as respective copyrights, belong with the respective authors or manufacturers.
TECHNOLOGIES DESCRIBED IN THIS BOOK ARE EXPERIMENTAL AND ALL RESULTS
FROM THEIR IMPLEMENTATION ARE SUBJECT TO INFLUENCE BY MANY FACTORS,
INCLUDING: VEHICLE OR ENGINE TYPE AND THEIR MECHANICAL CONDITIONS ESPECIALLY
THE HEALTH OF SENSORS, AMOUNT OF CARBON DEPOSITS, OIL GRADE AND ITS
QUALITY/CLEANLINESS, FUEL GRADE AND ITS SEASONAL MIX, MODEL YEAR AND SOFTWARE
BATCH WITHIN THE YEAR, DRIVING CONDITIONS AND DRIVING STYLE, WEATHER
CONDITIONS (AIR TEMPERATURE, MOISTURE, BAROMETRIC PRESSURE, WIND VELOCITY AND
WIND DIRECTION), ALTITUDE, ROAD QUALITY, QUALITY AND AGE OF MATERIALS USED IN
THE SYSTEM(S), PROPER INSTALLATION, PROPER TUNING, PROPER DATA COLLECTION AND
MORE. NOBODY CAN TEST ALL POSSIBLE COMBINATIONS OF ALL THESE FACTORS. AS A
RESULT OF SUCH DIVERSITY OF CONDITIONS, NONE OF THE TESTIMONIALS AND REPORTS
OF PAST RESULTS MAY BE REGARDED AS ANY TYPE OF GUARANTEE FOR FUTURE RESULTS.
THEREFORE NO SPECIFIC RESULTS CAN BE GUARANTEED TO THE READER OR END
USER FOR ANY TYPE OF MACHINE, ENGINE, VEHICLE, MARINE VESSEL, GENERATOR,
TORCH OR FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE OR APPLICATION.
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2 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com

THE SERIES
You are here  Book 1 teaches how to build a low-cost DIY proof-of-concept system,
 Book 2 teaches how to fine-tune the system to maximize your economy,
TABLE OF CONTENTS – THIS BOOK

Chapter Page
CHAPTER 1 THE WONDER OF WATER FUEL..............................................5

CHAPTER 2 DOES THIS WORK ON DIESELS? ......................................... 23
CHAPTER 3 DIY SYSTEM OVERVIEW ..................................................... 26
CHAPTER 4 LOW-COST PARTS ............................................................. 28
CHAPTER 5 BUILDING A WIRE ELECTROLYZER ...................................... 35
CHAPTER 6 BUILDING A BOLT ELECTROLYZER ....................................... 52
CHAPTER 7 WHAT’S WRONG WITH PLATE ELECTROLYZER? ..................... 57
CHAPTER 8 BUILDING A MULTI-CELL .................................................... 58
CHAPTER 9 BUILDING A VAPORIZER .................................................... 68
CHAPTER 10 BUILDING A MAP/MAF SENSOR ENHANCER .......................... 74
CHAPTER 11 BUILDING A PCV ENHANCER ............................................. 79
CHAPTER 12 INSTALLATION – GASOLINE CAR ......................................... 83
CHAPTER 13 INSTALLATION – DIESEL CAR ............................................. 99
CHAPTER 14 INSTALLATION – SEMI TRAILER ........................................ 105
CHAPTER 15 INSTALLATION – PCV ENHANCER ...................................... 126
CHAPTER 16 INSTALLATION – VAPORIZER ............................................ 130
CHAPTER 17 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS..................................................... 134
CHAPTER 18 GLOSSARY ..................................................................... 141
CHAPTER 19 RECOMMENDED DVD ....................................................... 150
CHAPTER 21 THE SCIENCE BOOK ........................................................ 151
CHAPTER 21 RESOURCES ................................................................... 152

DEDICATED TO: Juan Carlos Aguero, Herman Anderson, Saiful Bari, Thomas
Bearden, Eshel Ben-Jacob, Roger Billings, Archie Blue, Albert Bow, Bob Boyce,
Robert Boyle, Yull Brown, Henry Cavendish, Carl Cella, Martin Chaplin, Nicolas
Chauvin, Arthur Clarke, Francois Cornish, Leonardo DaVinci, Daniel Dingel, Chris
Eckman, Dr. Masaru Emoto, Rudolf Erren, Mohammad Esmaeil, Michael Faraday,
Martin Fleischmann, Charles Frazer, Dr. Frank Frungel, Sergey Gannotsky, Luigi
Galvani, Charles Garrett, Robinson Gourley, Peter Graneau, Rudolph Gunnerman,
Stephen Hawking, Gary Hendershot, Stephen Horvath, Tyler van Houwelingen,
"Joe-X" (Joe Cell inventor), Philipp Mikhailovich Kanarev, Song Doug Kang, John
Kanzius, John Keely, Mike Kehrli, Sang Nam Kim, Moray King, Dennis Klein, Dave
Lawton, Mark LeClair, Moshe Lerner, Hendrik Loggers, Mori Masahiro, Ronn
Maxwell, Roy McAlister, Rick McKean, Drunvalo Melchizedek, Stanley Meyer,
Andrew Michrowski, Randell Mills, Dr. Yoshiro Nakamatsu, Jean-Louis Naudin,
Ryushin Ohmasa, Francisco Pacheco, Henry Paine, Paul Pantone, Stanley Pons,
Thomas Prevenslik, Andrija Puharich, William Rhodes, Francois de Rivaz, James
Robey, Len Rosen, Andrea Rossi, Ruggero Santilli, Viktor Schauberger, Alex
Schiffer, Joe Shea, Boris Shelishch, Ilia Sinelnikov, Ernst Spirig, Ted Suratt, Nikola
Tesla, Aviv Tzidon, Jules Verne, Gijsbert Versteeg, Gary Vesperman, Charles Weber,
Ali Can Yilmaz and Paul Zigouras – to mention but a few – all these brave
scientists, inventors, experimenters and researchers who blazed a trail and
showed us the way. Also to all who have helped me since 2005 to develop the
technology and my books.
Special thanks to Tom and Bill Lang, Jerry Young, Carter Blankenship III, George
Wiseman, Sky Sopkin, Patrick Kelly, Sterling Allan and all members of the New
Energy Congress, for their extensive research, moral support and long term
inspiration.

This book is brought to you by

www.Water4Gas.com
TEACHING WATERFUEL SINCE 2006
Do It
Yourself
OR
Get
Factory
Made
COMPLETE
SYSTEMS

CHAPTER 1
THE WONDER OF WATERFUEL
How much water do we have?
IS ALL THIS
This is a real view of Earth:
From this angle we look

more like “Water World”
with a little bit of “Dry Land”…
They say we have 326,000,000,000,000,000,000 gallons…

which is 1,260,000,000,000,000,000,000 liters of water…
right here on our little planet.
NASA:
“EARTH IS A
WATER PLANET”

In its pure state (distilled water) water does not conduct electricity. But with a little help
from a catalyst such as Baking Soda and electricity, water can be split into its hydrogen
and oxygen components. This is our waterfuel although there’s much more to it.
Water is an amazing substance that absorbs and releases energy in

very interesting ways, and has at least FOUR states of matter. Only
the first three are taught in our schools, namely: liquid which we
simply call water, solid which we call ice, and a gaseous state which
is water vapor or steam. What we normally don’t realize is that
water has a very significant FORTH STATE called HHO (Hydrogen-
Hydrogen-Oxygen, a gaseous structure derived from H2O) or Brown’s Gas
named after its famous researcher Professor Yull Brown (1922-1998, see photo).
According to Prof. P.M. Kanarev 1, when separating water into its HHO/Brown’s Gas state,
each Gallon of water expands into 1839.13 gallons of highly combustible gas!
1234.44 gallons of hydrogen and 604.69 gallons of oxygen can be obtained from each
gallon of water! According to this, our planet’s water supplies are enough for making an
unconceivable amounts of hydrogen – 402,427,440,000,000,000,000,000 gallons of it.
Will this deplete our water supplies? The answer may surprise you… When ignited,
Brown’s Gas implodes and releases a lot of energy (imagine the energy released by
igniting nearly 2000 gallons of highly inflammable gas) BUT the unburned part reverts
back to nearly the same amount of water… Which means we can provide our energy
needs for endless millennia, without depleting our water supplies.
HHO HAS BEEN HERE SINCE 1789!!!

The documented history of hydrogen is nearly 400 years long, can you believe it?
Despite its known advantages, HHO is a subset of hydrogen and it has PRACTICAL
applications for extracting Free Energy from water. This technology dates back to the
1700’s! (The science book shown at the end of this book gives the complete timeline of
hydrogen technology).
1 The first recorded successes in decomposing water using

electrolysis (using electric current to dissociate
water molecules into Hydrogen and Oxygen): in the
year 1789,2 Dutch chemist Adriaan Paets van Troostwijk
(1752–1837) and medical doctor Jan Rudolph Deiman
(1743-1808) used an electrostatic machine and a Leyden
jar (the first battery) for the first electrolysis of water.
In 1800 it was done by renowned English chemist
William Nicholson (1753-1815) and English surgeon Sir
Anthony Carlisle (1768-1842)   
1
According to George Wiseman and Yull Brown it expands 1866-fold.
2
When somebody asks: “Ozzie, if it’s as good as you say, then why hasn’t somebody come
out with it already?” I try not to laugh when I answer: “My friend, this is 225 years old!”

2
Waterfuel is not new to engines either!
As early as 1863, US Patent #40805 was granted for
supplemental hydrogen in internal combustion engines.
 In 1865, this ‘Hugon Gas Engine’ was supplemented
with WATER to increase its power output, prevent
smoke, noticeably reduce its operating temperature
and prolong the engine’s life.
Although engines have changed dramatically, these

are exactly the same things we’re doing in this 21st
Century with Water4Gas. We use our old friend –
water – to achieve: increased engine’s power
output, smoke prevention, reduced operating
temperature and longer engine’s life…
Working models of the Hugon Gas Engine are

displayed in Anson Engine Museum (Poynton,
Cheshire, UK) and in the Conservatoire National des Arts (Métiers, France).
The Movement
The Water4Gas Movement was the spark that made HHO highly popular, though
controversial, do-it-yourself technology. It has been used by 1000’s of enthusiasts for
saving fuel and preventing pollution, between other benefits, on vehicles and
generators with all types of internal combustion engines: gasoline, Diesel, natural gas,
hybrids, etc. I personally witnessed countless demonstrations, experiments,
installations, lessons and documented research into this extraordinary technology.
HOW IS HHO
EXTRACTED
FROM WATER?
The explanation below is based
on data and graphics provided
by the U.S. Department of
Energy:
1. An HHO Generator (principally

similar to this diagram) uses
electric current to separate
water into its hydrogen and
oxygen components;

2. The electric current enters the water on the right side at the anode (a positively
charged electrode);
3. The electric current passes through the water and exists via the cathode (the
negatively charged electrode) shown on the left side;
4. Hydrogen is generated at the cathode, while Oxygen happens at the anode;

5. Often times these gases are collected separately. But it is also possible to let
these gases mix on their way out – and this combined gas is what we call HHO.
The chemical transformation of water to HHO is best described in the diagram below. As
you can see, the atoms of oxygen (O) and hydrogen (H) are being transformed from the
well known H2O state which we know as LIQUID WATER – into a new arrangement of
atom pairs. Now these pairs are in GAS form. Two separate gases, not water vapor!!!
The atom pairs you see on the right side of the diagram are in the “forth state of water”
mentioned above. That’s HHO.
As you can see, this

is not “hydrogen”
Canadian researcher and inventor George Wiseman of Eagle Research says that per his
latest research Brown’s Gas contains SIX constituents: H 2 and O2 (di-atomic3 gases)
as well as some H2O (as water vapor), small % H (mon-atomic hydrogen) and O (mon-
atomic oxygen), plus H2O that converted to ExW – “electrically expanded water”.
Per my understanding it’s ExW that makes Brown’s Gas extra powerful.
3
‘Di-atomic’ simply means atoms that pair up, while ‘mon-atomic’ means each atom on its own.

Other inventors have also noticed the existence of “electrically expanded water” and
gave it different names: Yull Brown called it “Fluid Crystal,” Professor Ruggero Santilli
calls it “Magnecules,” Swedish inventor Sven Erik calls it “Exotic Hydrogen” and
Chris Eckman of Idaho State University calls it “Orbital Expanded Plasma.”
A Different Theory
I don’t want to confuse you, but you should know that not everybody describes Brown’s
Gas with the same theory. The diagram below was taken from a recent Patent
Application (US11/738476) submitted by American inventors Ted Suratt and Robinson
Gourley. On the left half of the diagram they show good old H 2O water for comparison.
On the right side they show what they call Hydroxyhydrogen or SG Gas – water in the
new state.
Water Hydroxyhydrogen
The Broad Agreement

There is a broad agreement, though, that what we have here is “water in the forth
state” and this is a new, unique and very different form of water. In this book we call it
HHO for short but in the fast growing waterfuel industry HHO goes by many other
names: Brown’s Gas, Rhode’s Gas, oxy-hydrogen, water gas, waterfuel, etc. Some just
call it “hydrogen” for simplicity, but HHO is different and more powerful than hydrogen.
It has been said that HHO burns perfectly because the perfect amount of
oxygen needed for burning the hydrogen has also been extracted from the water!
From water we get a perfectly balanced fuel. There’s more to the theory and if you want
to study it deeply read Book 3.

HHO is safer than hydrogen and safer than gasoline!

HHO is DIFFERENT THAN PURE HYDROGEN (and significantly more powerful). By volume
it has 3 times more energy than gasoline but HHO is not used as stand-alone fuel. It is
best used today as a supplement to hydrocarbon fuel – it makes any such fuel (liquid
or natural gas) perform more work. Yes, I know you want to run your car on water
alone… But Water4Gas is not about “water cars” and it must be stressed that HHO is
supplemental to regular fuel. Another difference: we never store HHO – it must be
produced on-demand and used right away.
HHO is considered a clean burning fuel because it produces no pollutants (it releases
energy and returns back to pure water without smoke) but I also consider it to be very
safe for the following reasons:
1. HHO is produced and immediately used up, without storage (unlike hydrogen,
methane, propane and natural gas that must be stored in problematic pressure
tanks),
2. When gasoline is spilled, it creates a fire hazard for a long time due to its slow
evaporation rate. But HHO is lighter than air, diffuses rapidly in the air (without
adding any pollutants!) and since it has a high initial flammability limit, it is
safer than other combustible gases!
3. HHO is an environmentally friendly fuel, that returns to water when combusted

and does NOT pollute the environment – furthermore it reduces the pollution
from fossil fuel combustion – a great benefit for the safety and health of
passengers and workers.
4. The way it interacts with all hydrocarbon fuels, HHO causes a lower temperature
ignition point, therefore it adds that much safety to the overall operation
conditions of a vehicle’s engine or any stationary generator/compressor.

WHERE DOES THE “HHO BREAKS THE LAWS

OF PHYSICS” NONSENSE COME FROM?
When “experts on physics” claim that HHO is a hoax, what are they saying? They are
claiming THAT FREE ENERGY IS DIRECTLY EXTRACTED FROM HHO – and this is SHEER
IGNORANCE!!! Nobody with his head in the right place is claiming that!!!
Let’s start with ignorance regarding those shiny cars rolling down the street, as well as
HHO in regards to energy.
When some energy

“expert” tells you
something to the
effect of “it’s
impossible to get
200% out of a
100% fuel” –
what is he
actually thinking?
Observe the diagram for

a moment. We’ll dive into
the details in a moment.

HOW DOES HHO IMPROVE FUEL ECONOMY?

Scientists proved that HHO does it best
Extensive lab tests published in 2013 by the HydroAtomic Institute, Stockholm, Sweden
(www.HydroInfra.com) and conducted by scientists Lars Månsson of MetLab AB
(www.metlab.se) and Olof Sten of Palgo AB (www.palgo.se) discovered that the use of
HNG Gas (Hydro Nano Gas, another name for Brown’s Gas) is capable of creating
(quote) “POSITIVE ENERGY BALANCE.” In other words, if you added such gas PROPERLY
into a complete system of an internal combustion engine using its regular fuel and
regular air inputs, then your net result would be free energy added into the system.
This, in turn, translates into the monetary gains you’re seeking.
POSITIVE ENERGY BALANCE
“Question: Is the energy needed to produce HNG gas reasonable in

relation to its emission and energy performance?”
“Answer: The HNG gas is a reactive gas, not intended to be used as

an energy carrier. When the HNG gas is injected in the diesel fuel
(hydro carbon), it quickly frees the hydrogen bond in the fuel. Only
a very small amount of the HNG gas is needed to gain a very
efficient burning process. This results in a net gain in energy
efficiency between 10-30%. This means a positive energy balance
between the cost of HNG gas production and the total energy
efficiency gain.”
“According to our professional experience we have never seen results like this
before.”
[A joint comment by Lars Månsson and Olof Sten]
Many other scientists, inventors and experimenters have confirmed that a net gain in
fuel economy can be achieved WHILE REDUCING EMISSIONS as a “side effect.” Find the
most extensive details ever published on the subject in the science book (see resource
chapter to get
yourself a printed
copy).

HHO Practical Principles

HHO mixes with the atmospheric air coming into the engine, and then, inside the air/fuel
mixture, it helps the fossil fuel burn completely. That’s all it does! It’s a
gaseous fuel additive that you add into the air stream rather than the liquid fuel.
HHO can be likened to throwing a match to light the fire. ONLY A

LUNATIC WILL TRY TO COOK WITH MATCHES ALONE! A match burns
very hot yet one match – or even 100 matches – cannot boil a glass of
water. It does its job by lighting a carbon-based fuel, whether liquid or
gas. Likewise, in our current technology HHO is ineffective by itself.
Principles to remember:
HHO -- Not hydrogen!!!
HHO -- Not Stand-Alone Fuel (in our use)
It can also be described as:
HHO = IGNITER of Unburned Fuel
In more technical terms: it’s a CATALYST for efficient combustion.
How do we extract the Free Energy?

By igniting of unburned fuel.
Are you asking now “What unburned fuel? I have a good car and it works perfectly!”
Well, I have some news for you. Let’s have a look at the energy balance when it comes
to the modern automobile. According to “Advanced technologies and energy efficiency,
Fuel Economy Guide” published by the U.S. Department of Energy in 2009, the
modern automobile engine is only 18.2% efficient. Furthermore, after driveline losses
you have only 12.6% to drive with…
“Therefore, the potential to improve fuel efficiency with advanced technologies

is enormous,” concludes the government in that report.

Source: FuelEconomy.gov
At the top of the diagram we see that we lose 17.2% to standby/idling time. Mainly
that’s due to driving conditions and there’s little we can do about that. At the bottom of
the diagram you can see that the ENGINE is the greatest energy waster with losses of
62.4%!!!
By using HHO as the “match” that lights the unburned fuel, we create (or extract, if you
will) Free Energy out of wasted energy. The electrical energy taken from the
battery to create the “match” is low enough to make it worthwhile. Hence, the concept
that HHO cannot save fuel because “it takes more energy to split water than the energy
we can extract out of its hydrogen” is true only in a closed system (generating hydrogen
from water, then burning the hydrogen). But this is not what we do here!!! We have an
OPEN SYSTEM whereby we create a “match” and throw it at the unburned fuel.
Back to the drawing by the U.S. Department of Energy, let’s demonstrate where the gain
actually happens. Not the entire 62.4% waste is unburned fuel – but much of it is. Now
let’s say we divert only 20% of ‘Engine Losses’ – or in other words 12.6% of the total –
back into usable energy. Remember – we still have 80% of the original ‘Engine Losses’
at 49.8%… But now that we send extra 12.6% to the wheels, we get double the energy
out of each gallon of fuel – or in other words the bottom line effect of DOUBLE MILEAGE!

Now you can see how A SMALL 20% IMPROVEMENT in engine efficiency could actually
double the mileage of an average car – all according to the numbers of U.S.
Department of Energy. Note that there is no guarantee or statement here that every
engine can be improved by 20% or by any other number. This is just simple
mathematics to show you how HHO taps into otherwise wasted energy, by igniting
otherwise unburned fuel – and how far the bottom line can improve.
Please never forget that these are sample calculations and not a promise of results!
Water4Gas is not a magic pill and it must be done right to achieve results. So, once you
have used HHO successfully (like I did) please do not promise specific results to others.
Just repeat this statement as many times as necessary to make it clear:
“Water4Gas is not a magic pill and it must be done right to achieve results.”
20%-35% in mileage gain calculates to 4%-7% in standard engine improvement. An

Engine that everybody agrees is grossly inefficient… Does that sound so impossible now?
I strongly believe that recent technological improvements presented in this book can
bring average gains to new heights.
Next time a skeptic tells you that “it is impossible to get 200% out of a 100% fuel” or
something to that effect, you will understand that he has absolutely no clue what’s
happening inside his own car and possibly does not understand the basics of physics!!!
Show him the diagrams and examine his understanding – or stubborn ignorance…

Conclusions about HHO:

 According to U.S. Department of Energy numbers, a mere 20% improvement in
ENGINE EFFICIENCY automatically translates into 100% increase in MILEAGE.
Such gains are no longer impossible.
 Stationary engines can be improved accordingly.
 Adding HHO taps into otherwise wasted energy.
 Those who claim that “HHO breaks the laws of physics” are either ignorant or
want to keep YOU ignorant.
IF IT’S SO GOOD, WHY DON’T AUTOMAKERS

ADOPT HHO?
WikiPedia defines Planned Obsolescence: the process of a product becoming
obsolete and/or non-functional after a certain period or amount of use...
the product fails and the consumer is under pressure to purchase again...
The purpose of planned obsolescence is to hide the real cost per use from
the consumer, and charge a higher price than they would otherwise be
willing to pay... There is, however, the potential backlash of consumers
who learn that the manufacturer invested money to make the product
obsolete faster.
HHO makes their vehicles

break down too slowly for
their profit greed. Why would
they want a simple technology
that makes “old” engines young
again – and damages their car
sales?
Is this tradition dissolving now?

Texas automaker ‘Ronn Motors’
(now VydroTech) developed the
exotic sports car Scorpion™ that
uses a powerful HHO generator
‘H2Go Hydrogen Fuel Injection System’ to enhance its performance and fuel economy
(22% according to one report). Will other automakers follow? Time will tell.
GOOD QUESTION:
“IF IT’S WONDERFUL, THEN
WHY WON’T MY GOVERNMENT
ENDORSE HHO?”
Simple answer: “BECAUSE IT’S NOT TAXABLE!”

HOW MUCH WILL I SAVE?

Readers have reported fuel economy gain from as low as 12.5% to nearly TRIPLE
MILEAGE and many have more than doubled their mileage. I achieved 61 MPG and 64
MPG in my gasoline and Diesel, respectively. No promise can be made since there
are many variants – but in this book series you will learn how to maximize each one.
Unsolicited DOUBLE-MILEAGE STORIES from Water4Gas

Readers who told their Simple Truth on American TV
Aired on KATU (ABC News), OREGON:
 Ray Warren from Linn County,

Oregon, doubled the gas mileage of
his pickup truck
from 15 MPG to 30 MPG in town!
Read the article and watch the video at

www.water4gas.com/1/ray1.htm
Aired on WVEC-TV (ABC News),

VIRGINIA: 
Art Green from Norfolk, Virginia -

have more than doubled the
mileage of his 2008 Chevy
Avalanche from 20 to 40 MPG
on the highway -- and even more
in town from 8 to 20 MPG!!
Watch Joe Flanagan reported for WVEC-

TV: www.water4gas.com/1/art1.htm

As reported on TV, Art Green and Ray Warren built their systems from older versions of
these very same Water4Gas books that you’re reading now.
Water4Gas has matured over the past few years since its conception in 2006 – and so
have the results in terms of fuel economy AND maintenance economy. In fact the reality
and trust in these sister benefits – economy AND maintenance savings – have grown to
the point that a new term was needed, so instead of ‘Fuel Economy’ I think we should
start saying ‘Fuel & Maintenance Economy.’
In vehicles we see an average gain of 20% with basic HHO systems DONE RIGHT, and
with some upgrades it is possible to get 35% or more on the average. Not everybody
doubles their mileage – and if not done right there is a chance that you will see no
difference at all. This book series will show you how to get the best possible Fuel &
Maintenance Economy, or in other words how to save you as many dollars as possible on
your gas-pump expense AND maintenance costs.
In large, heavily loaded semi-trailer Diesel trucks we’ve seen savings of over 20% with
very simple Water4Gas systems. The truck owners reported saving $350-$500/week
on fuel. A heavily loaded train may consume 5000+ gallons of fuel per week. According
to the World Bank, the worldwide average price of Diesel fuel is $4.77
a gallon. Thus, for Australia’s “road trains” and regular freight trains
used worldwide, 20% better economy translates to saving up to
$4,770 per week, per unit. For a large fleet such as Russian Railways,
this theoretically means saving BILLIONS OF RUBLES every year!
Photo: Russian Railways
SAVING OUR ENVIRONMENT

In their publication Fuel Economy Guide, US Dept. of Energy emphasized the
importance of reducing pollution – and especially reducing Carbon Dioxide CO2:
Every gallon of gasoline your vehicle burns puts about 20 pounds of CO 2

into the atmosphere — the average vehicle emits around 6 to 9 tons of
CO2 each year. Unlike other forms of vehicle pollution,
CO2 emissions cannot be reduced by pollution control
technologies. They can only be reduced by burning less
fuel or by burning fuel that contains less carbon.
But is it true that “CO2 emissions cannot be reduced by

pollution control technologies”????????????? Let me show
you that CO2 emissions can be reduced DRASTICALLY with VERY
SIMPLE technology.
I’ve seen this in other smog tests – they showed either zero, or at
least dramatic drop in CO2. Examine the smog reports below. The
vehicle in the first test was an old 1989 Ford F-250 (460 cubic inch
displacement) that has been equipped with a Water4Gas DIY system
like the one you will learn in this book.

Submitted by a reader like you.

I have no way to verify it, but it
matches my own experience.
~Ozzie
BEFORE Water4Gas
AFTER Water4Gas
Let’s analyze the test results shown above

CO2, and CO went down to ZERO!!! The NOx went down 85.6% and the output of
oxygen to the atmosphere has nearly doubled. HC (the least hazardous emission) also
went down from 45 to 40 PPM.

Another test from Santa Monica, California:

Ford Econoline 150, 8 cylinders automatic (similar to
the one shown – the photo is from WikiMedia.org)
BEFORE Water4Gas

AFTER Water4Gas
Submitted by a reader like you.

I have no way to verify it, but it
matches my own experience.
~Ozzie
Let’s analyze these test results
The emission gases considered the most harmful are CO2, NOx and CO. Hydrocarbons
(HC) are basically unburned fuel and should be reduced as much as possible, too! Here’s
my calculation of these test results:
Speed: 15 MPH 25 MPH

CO2 14.1 13.7
CO2 after Water4Gas 13.4 n/a
Reduced emissions: -5 %
NOx 257 287
As can be seen, the
addition of a Water4Gas NOx after Water4Gas 139 232
system reduced emissions Reduced emissions: -46 % -19 %
significantly (between 5%
CO 0.03 0.04
and 75%) while adding
30% more oxygen to the CO after Water4Gas 0.01 0.01
atmosphere. Reduced emissions: -67 % -75 %
HC 82 63
In 2013 I have seen more
evidence of added oxygen HC after Water4Gas 31 21
in the exhaust, in the study Reduced emissions: -62 % -67 %
made by the HydroAtomic
O2 1.3 1.7
Institute of Sweden (see
Book 3 for details). O2 after Water4Gas 1.7 n/a
ADDED OXYGEN: +30 %

CAN HHO FIX MY BROKEN ENGINE?

Answer: No it won’t!
Just like any other technology,

Water4Gas is not a magic pill. In
any technology, there’s always
something that needs to be DONE
and it must be done right. For this
reason, HHO cannot magically fix
broken engines including vacuum
leaks, malfunctioning sensors or
computers, etc.
If you want to gain the full benefits

of HHO and Water4Gas, make
sure your engine works properly.
Do this before installing a system
and then regularly after the
installation. Run the usual tests
and fixes, replace faulty sensors
and belts, perform tuning, check oil and compression, and generally keep your
machine in good shape.
The factors that we find particularly contrary to fuel

efficiency in HHO Systems:
 Malfunctioning sensors such as Oxygen Sensor or MAF Sensor,
 Vacuum leaks or air leaks in the hose/duct system,
 Bad spark plugs or ignition system (mainly coils and more often coil cables),
 Clogged air intake (usually just the air filter – see Book 2),
 Malfunctioning electrical systems including computer(s),
 Malfunctioning fuel delivery system (carburetor or injectors),
 Engine generally out of tune (timing, error codes, etc.)
This relates to any engine, not just vehicles. What’s more, since engines used in
farm equipment, off road vehicles and stationary generators are subject to less
obligatory tests (sometimes none), it is even more noteworthy that you must keep
them in good shape. That is, if you want to reduce emissions and save money on
fuel and maintenance.
IN SHORT: FIX YOUR ENGINE BEFORE HHO!

CHAPTER 2
DOES THIS WORK ON DIESELS?
The answer: ABSOLUTELY! DIESELS LOVE HYDROGEN.
Experimental Diesels that I’ve owned, seen or worked with
worldwide – whether test cars, pickup trucks, 18-wheelers
(12.7 liter turbo-Diesels) and large stationary generators (19
liter turbo-Diesel in an oil drilling site) gained better fuel
economy. My general impression: the percentage of economy
improvement may seem less impressive than some gasoline
success stories, but it is EASIER to get results with your Diesel.
As a Diesel driver I can testify that it’s a much more pleasant

driving experience when your Diesel has Water4Gas. When I I always capitalize the
purchased my VW Jetta TDI (see photo) it was in good word ‘Diesel’ because
this engine type is named
condition but pretty sluggish, yet a single Water4Gas
after its inventor: Rudolf
Electrolyzer boosted its performance and acceleration Christian Karl Diesel
considerably. The exhaust smelled very clean, and the ride (1858-1913)
became smoother. I’m not imagining it because whenever the
ride (engine sound and vibration) became rough as in the beginning, it was always for
lack of water in the Water4Gas system.
Diesel installations are usually much simpler, even if you have a turbo charger and an
inter-cooler. Therefore our average results indicate an oncoming Diesel revolution!

Important tip from Jerry Young
“After installing your Water4Gas 6-Pack on a big-rig* truck, you

have to wait several tankfulls to start seeing mileage gain.”
* 18-wheeler, semi-trailer, lorry.
JERRY YOUNG’S RESULTS ON HIS 18-WHEELER

From 5.2-5.5 MPG his truck went to a steady 6.6 MPG. That’s over 20% improvement
and according to my calculations it can save him $15,000 a year, with current Diesel fuel
costs in Nevada. If he was in the UK, his savings would average some $31,000 per year,
per lorry truck.
Photo showing Young’s truck computer reporting 6.7 MPG, after

the system has stabilized (prior to Water4Gas it was 5.2-5.5 MPG)
Mr. Young also reported a 30% increase in effective pulling power. Without the system
he could go no faster than 35 MPH when hauling 79,000 lbs (35,834 kg) UPHILL, but he
told me that with the Water4Gas system that he had built from my books, for the same
load and up the same hill he could climb as fast as 45 MPH – an increase of nearly 30%
in speed.
I see more than 30% power boost because the road is very different than an engine
bench test – and the difference is wind resistance! I come from aviation and according
to my aerodynamics calculations, increasing the speed uphill by 30% requires going not
only against gravity but also against 69% more wind resistance. Young realizes the
improvement from a driver’s point of view: instead of having to shift down 3 or 4,

sometimes 5 gears uphill, he now has to shift down only 1 or 2 gears, climbing the same
hill with full load!
This matches my experience with my Diesel VW Jetta – Water4Gas turned it instantly

from a sluggish and rough Diesel into a fast-running, smoother Diesel. Whenever I
disconnect the system, my Diesel engine loses power and becomes rough in a matter of
minutes.
Mr. Young also reports lower maintenance, and engine temperature cooler by 10
degrees. Periodically when he changes oil filters (he never has to change the oil itself
and I’ll tell you more about that later), he sends an oil sample to the lab and the results
always prove that the oil keeps its good qualities. Not only does it stay clean, but the oil
also reserves its viscosity and density. Such periodical lab testing is something that most
sedan drivers never do. I know I don’t. But Young’s lab results explain his low
maintenance costs.
Another factor he could SHOW us was the spanking

clean exhaust stacks on his truck (see photo) that
normally get dirty with black soot. That black soot,
explains Young, is NOT OIL but unburned Diesel
fuel.
The photo was taken several weeks after Jerry had

cleaned the stacks, and he attributed this
cleanliness to driving with Water4Gas.
Chapter 14 gives you the SIMPLEST INSTALLATION

in a large Diesel truck that actually gets GOOD
MILEAGE stably.
How Does He Get Free Water???
Jerry Young waters his Water4Gas system with...regular drinking

bottles that he gets for free – rejected drinking bottles from one
of his clients. I visited his home and saw him do that. I recommend
using distilled water but in his experience there is no problem with
bottled water.

CHAPTER 3
DIY SYSTEM OVERVIEW
This chapter contains the complete "secrets" on how you can obtain $53 worth of parts,
to make $500-$800 systems. In fact, I was making and selling five such systems a day
– selling each for $497.00 – right out of my small bedroom in Studio City.
When the demand became too high for one man to satisfy, I decided to release my
complete manufacturing knowledge to the public, without any secrets held back. You’re
most welcome to use this knowledge, now revised and improved, to create a profitable
business for yourself while helping 1000’s of people and the environment – or upgrade
your own fleet of vehicles affordably.
The photo below shows the parts that make up a typical Water4Gas system. The
numbers correspond to the descriptions on the next page.

Once you have all necessary components (listed in Chapter 4) you can assemble this
Water4Gas system in a few hours. Its major parts are:
1. Electrolyzer: This is the heart of the system, the part

that contains the electrolyte and produces HHO out of it. IMPORTANT NOTE:
This unique design has SPIRAL electrodes rather than Parts (1) and (2) are
plates. It is housed in a quart-size highly durable jar. used SEPARATELY,
not installed
2. Vaporizer: Adds water vapor to the engine to cool it together. More on
down, improves combustion and fuel economy. Can be that later.
used with tap water or with a mixture of water and
additives.
3. Catalyst: Household Baking Soda – a totally safe catalyst! Catalyst is the substance
that helps the electricity separate water into HHO. Distilled water alone does not conduct
electricity so nothing would happen without this substance. It can be obtained cheaply at
your grocery store. If Baking Soda is not sold in your country, I listed safe alternatives.
4. Vacuum T-connector and Vacuum Hose: Connects between the Electrolyzer and
the engine’s vacuum intake, and feeds the hydrogen and oxygen into the engine.
5. Fuse holder + Electrical Wiring: Connects the 12 volts to the Electrolyzer.
6. MAP Sensor Enhancer: An electronic device to reduce fuel consumption without

modifying the engine or the computer – an absolute must have for great fuel economy!
This is a simple do-it-yourself device. Book 2 will teach you more about it, when it is
useful and what alternatives are available on the market.
7. PCV Enhancer: Another great companion to your Water4Gas system that improves
the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) function by cleaning the gases that pass in it. It
protects your engine and may save fuel as well.
8. Mechanical installation hardware: Bungee cords, cable straps, flex tubing.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not buy any parts yet. Read this book series
first, get familiar with the system so you can make good buying
decisions – especially when calculating quantities.

CHAPTER 4 PRICES WERE TRUE FOR

THE TIME OF WRITING
LOW-COST PARTS
AND MAY VARY OVER
TIME AND BY LOCATION
PARTS SOURCES IN THE USA

The table below is useful for small-scale manufacturing of the popular Water4Gas
system shown earlier. I optimized it for manufacturing 100 complete systems at a time,
including shipping of parts to Los Angeles. For larger scale manufacturing you can
probably reduce your costs to less than $40 per system!
This information is also useful for making one system (or a few) at a time, since these
are very good sources; in small quantities expect to spend $70-$100 per system.
Item
Pack for cost S&H (100
Items for popular how many Package per pack) USA Source, Manufacturer Part #,
Do-It-Yourself System systems price sys. +tax Store Part #, Barcode, etc.
ELECTROLYZER
Jar “Wide Mouth 6 $13.49 $1.12 Local OSH® Store part # 1050129.
Mason Jar" Or www.Amazon.com
Lid “Ball 37000 wide 96 $39.99 $0.42 $7.59 www.CanningPantry.com/bawimoplstca.html
mouth canning jar Also try this source: www.Amazon.com $0.37 from
plastic storage caps" Goodman’s
Tower (Electrode 1 $3.24 $3.24 www.usplastic.com Part # 44241. Anibal Riquelme of "A&F
Core), Plexiglas 2.5" x Display", California (phone 818-890-4074) used to make
5.5" x 1/8" (x2) them for me very affordably with VERY high quality
Electrode wire, 316L 64 $15.16 $0.24 $34.56
www.SunsetWire.com No Part # - order by description.
Stainless Steel 20
Phone 1-800-635-8296 (Gerard Daniel).
Ga., 60" (320’/roll)
Alternative source: McMaster-Carr® www.mcmaster.com
phone (630) 833-0300.
Bolt ¼"x7/8" (100-pk) 50 $6.80 $0.14 Local Home Depot®. Barcode 30699000302 (code may vary)
x2
Washer ¼", flat 50 $1.10 $0.02 $1.99 www.Amazon.com
(100-pk) x2
Washer ¼", split 50 $1.40 $0.03 $1.99 www.Amazon.com
(100-pk) x2
Nut ¼" (100-pk) x2 33.33 $2.00 $0.06 $1.99 www.Amazon.com
Wing Nut Coarse ¼" 50 $12.90 $0.26 $1.99 www.Amazon.com
(100-pk) x2
Barb coupling 1 $0.08 $0.08 $4.42 www.gardendrip.org Part # FITH80-1
Or http://www.gardendrip.org/hydrogen.htm
Elbow Fitting x2 0.33 $0.09 $0.27 $4.42 www.gardendrip.org Part # FITH83-1
Or http://www.gardendrip.org/hydrogen.htm
Adjustable Bubbler 0.5 $0.42 $0.83 $9.00 http://www.gardendrip.org/hydrogen.htm

Item
Check Valve, small 1 $0.41 $0.41 Qosina® #80068. Phone 631-242-3000 (commercial
blue quantities required). Alternative source: www.usplastic.com
item # 64048. Alternative source: item A961 (or A1175) from
MPC®: www.mpc-inc.com
Check Valve, hi-flow 0.5 $1.50 $3.00 R-723 from www.resenex.com
white Tel: 1-800 220.1876. www.usplastic.com item # 64048.
Qosina® #91029 Ph.631-242-3000 (commercial quantities
required). Alternative source: item A1175 from MPC®:
www.mpc-inc.com
Clear Vinyl Tubing 5.71 $2.69 $0.47 Local Home Depot® PLUMBING DEPT. Barcode 48643025493
¼"x0.170"ID, 6" +15" (code may vary)
+15" +6" (20’ roll)
Vacuum Hose, ¼" 10 $15.50 $1.55 $50.00 www.imperialinc.com part # 95921.
5/32 ID, 43" +6" +6" Phone 1-800-558-2808, Ext.5433
+5" (50’ spool)
Vacuum Tee, 1 $2.49 $1.99 Local www.Autozone.com (phone your local store!)
Universal “Dorman Part # 47349, Barcode 3749547349-1 (code may vary)
Vacu-Tite!"
Yellow Anchor (100- 50 $2.97 $0.06 Local Home Depot® Part # 54772. Barcode 76818030010 (code
pk) “Crown Bolt" may vary). NON CRITICAL - use just about any small
Ribbed Anchors anchor, irrigation diffuser or aquarium air stone.
4-6x7/8
Wire, Red 14-GA 32" 37 $13.99 $0.38 Local Cheapest - AUTO ZONE®: Barcode 3749585776-5 (red
(100’ roll) wire, code may vary)
Wire, Black 14-GA 36" 142 $51.31 $0.36 Local ALTERNATIVE SOURCE: www.delcity.net Part # 3714505
(100’ roll) (black wire)
Fuse Holder “8 Amp 1 $0.58 $0.58 $9.50 www.DelCity.net (DelCity, not DellCity) Part # 79185
Nylon In-Line Fuse
Holder" (w/fuse)
Butt Terminal 16-14 100 $6.95 $0.07 Search http://www.ebay.com for [butt terminals]
AWG, x2 (100-pk)
Spade Terminal 16-14 50 $8.68 $0.17 $4.25 Search http://www.ebay.com for [spade terminals]
AWG,1/4", x2 (100-pk) or HOME DEPOT® (electric dept), about $7
Quick Splice, 16-14 12.5 $2.88 $0.23 Local Home Depot # 78178970027 (code may vary).
AWG (25-pk) x2 www.DelCity.net Part # 905585.
O-Ring 50 $11.55 $0.20 Local www.Grainger.com/Grainger/items/1KLG2 Part # 1KLG2
PCV ENHANCER
Glass Beads, 8 mm 3.25 $1.99 $0.61 Local Jo-Ann’s Crafts®. Part # 1967-31, barcode 65269539126-2
round (65-pk) (code may vary)
Inline Desiccant 1 $7.99 $7.99 Local Harbor Freight Tools® Item #68215
Dryer/Filter

Item
Note: the item above is what Husky® and Kobalt® call Mini Air Alternative body for the PCV Enhancer:
Filter, used as the body for our PCV Enhancer. Apparently, Campbell Hausfeld® #MP513810, "Mini Air Filter”
both Husky and Kobalt (Lowe’s® item # 221024) have
discontinued their mini air filters described in the book. $17.28 at True Value, store item #895649,
phone 1-870-364-4145
Here are the alternatives >>>>>> $19.19 at DrillSpot, store item #306053
$25.48 at Ron’s Home & Hardware, store item #895649 ,

Phone 1-888-607-7667
If all these stores have run out of stock, search Google for
[Campbell Hausfeld MP513803 Mini Air Filter]. Don’t use
smaller filters that have ¼" inlet because that’s too restrictive
for PCV flow.
3/8" Hose Barb 0.5 $1.92 $3.84 Local Home Depot®, Watts® Part # A-293, barcode
Adapter 04864307449-1
Bottom Cap Local ¾" of vinyl tubing (3/8" OD barcode 048643025523 from
Home Depot®, Irrigation dept). Seal with glass bead or glue.
MAP SENSOR ENHANCER
SPDT switch 100 $75.00 $0.75 Local All Electronics.com, Van Nuys, CA. Part # MTS-4
(100-pack)
Box 3.25" x 2" 1 $1.75 $1.75 Local All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA. Part # TB-2
Connector 3-prong 1 $1.50 $1.50 Local All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA. Part # CON-30
Pot 50K Linear 0.5 $0.50 $1.00 Local All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA. Part # LPT-50K
(+aluminum nut)
Knob 0.5 $0.30 $0.60 Local All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA (no part number, use
available)
Resistor 33K, ½ Watt 0.5 $0.05 $0.10 Local All Electronics, Van Nuys, CA (no part number, use
available)
Solder material, wires Solder get from www.RadioShack.com
Short wires: since you need very little, recycle scrap wires
from telephone work leftovers, old radios, etc.
Outside Los Angeles, www.DigiKey.com
get electronics from www.Mouser.com
these sources >>> www.Jameco.com
TOTAL PER SYSTEM $35
INSTALLATION ACCESSORIES
Baking Soda 3.8oz 50 $5.24 $0.12 Local Costco® Store locator:
(from 13.5 lb bag) www.costco.com/Warehouse/locator.aspx
Measuring teaspoon 1000 $20.84 $0.02 www.cleansweepsupply.com/pages/item-dxeptm21.html
Split Flex Tubing 3/8", 2 $0.99 $0.50 Local Home Depot® Electrical, Part # 772240, barcode
5 ft 81789722405 (code may vary), or # 522181.

Item
Mini Bungees x2 (20- 10 $6.80 $0.68 Local Harbor Freight Tools® www.harborfreight.com
pk)
Nylon Cable tie, 8" x8 12.5 $4.99 $0.40 Local Harbor Freight Tools® www.harborfreight.com
(100-pk)
Nylon Cable tie, 11" 10 $4.99 $0.50 Local Harbor Freight Tools® www.harborfreight.com
x10 (100-pk)
SUM $2
I do not have cost calculations for the UK and other countries, but let me give you the
best information I have for these locations, as I have received it from Water4Gas
experimenters in those countries.
Wherever you are, develop your own optimal list by researching all available sources
online and comparing them with your local hardware stores. Don’t forget that a
weekly/monthly round of local shopping can save you a lot in shipping costs, not to
mention saving the time waiting for shipments to arrive in the mail.
PARTS SOURCES IN THE

UNITED KINGDOM/EUROPE
PART DESCRIPTION SOURCES
Spray Paint Black/Red
Bolts Homebase®
Washers or B&Q®
Nuts
Wing Nuts
Anchors
Glue - ("Evo-Stik Araldite®" was found to be good)
Screwdrivers
Pliers
Drill
Drill Bits
Flashlight
Knife and Blades
Protective Eye-Wear and Work Gloves
Butt + Spade Terminals
Bungee Cords Halfords®
Multimeter
Solder Iron
Crimper
Distilled Water www.SortLifeOut.co.uk
Baking Soda Sainsburys® or ASDA®

PARTS SOURCES IN DENMARK

The following list was submitted by Kenneth Bakholm, a Water4Gas
experimenter from Denmark (Thanks, Kenneth!)
PART DESCRIPTION SOURCES
1 Liter jar from Bilka®/A-Z®, 25kr. Successfully tested, filled Bilka®

with water and put in the freezer -18°C. A-Z®
Alternative to plastic lid: I have not found a suitable plastic lid

in Denmark yet. I make a big hole Ø 60-65 mm / 2.5" in the
metal lid, with a big hobby knife (watch out for those fingers).
Then I glue Plexiglas on top of the lid.
Electrode wire – stainless steel grade 316L go to the local Local blacksmith
blacksmith. Grade 316L is used for TIG-welding, 4 kr/meter. (welding/metal
works)
[Note from Ozzie: welding-type 316L wire is very hard – won’t bend easily –
and should only be used if you cannot get regular 316L]
Vacuum Hose, 1/4" (7/32" I.D.) Mekonomen®
Vacuum Tee, Universal Mekonomen®
Wire, Red 14-GA 32" Bilka®/A-Z®
Wire, Black 14-GA 32" Bilka®/A-Z®
Fuse Holder +fuse Mekonomen®
Baking soda Bilka®/A-Z®,

Kvickly®, Super
Best® etc.
Butt Terminal 16-14 AWG Bilka®/A-Z®
Spade Terminal 16-14 AWG, ¼" or #10 Bilka®/A-Z®
Cable ties Bilka®/A-Z®, Jem

og Fix® etc.
LiquiSole®: Expensive but very good, I use this for all gluing. Bauhaus®, 80kr.

SOURCES IN THE OTHER COUNTRIES

Baking Soda and Alternatives
If you cannot get Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) in your
country, use its SAFE ALTERNATIVES described in Chapter 17.
Comments on parts (any country)

You may use Stainless Steel grade 302, grade 304 or even grade
308 for the “Cathode” (the minus voltage wire), but I highly
recommend grade 316L for the “Anode” (the plus voltage wire).
Preferably for both so the user can switch between them to
prolong the Electrolyzer useful life before replacing wires.
If you’re going to use both metal types in one device, it is

important to always make note which is which. Also remember to
put a RED wingnut on the bolt connected to the 316L wire, and a
BLACK wingnut on the 302/304 wire (these are simple wingnuts
from the hardware store, which I then spray with red and black
paint).
NOTE: USING 316L IS THE ENVIRONMENT-FRIENDLY CHOICE!

BUT MAKE SURE IT IS INDEED 316L AND NOT THE SO-CALLED
“316L” USED FOR WELDING (WHICH IS VERY, VERY HARD AND
IS CHEMICALLY DIFFERENT).
Clarification: The reason I suggest using two types of wire is to

save costs in mass production. If you’re building a small number
of units, stick to all 316L for simplicity. The difference in cost
per device may be a couple of dollars at most. This will also allow
to switch polarity after several months of use (when the anode
has been partially corroded), and gain extra durability – or in
other words DOUBLE the lifespan of each Electrolyzer.
Wire length needed depends on the structure and measurements

of your tower!!! Refer to the Electrolyzer building instructions
given in Chapter 5.
The wire diameter I used was 0.035", however this is not a critical
measurement. If you have a thinner wire, you can double it or
even triple it for durability (and for better contact with the water).
Experiment to get the length right.

Many readers asked where to get the

"ribbed anchor" – they’ve been asking
all over town and nobody knew what a
ribbed anchor was or where to get one.
Well, this is the simplest and cheapest
part of the entire design, and can be found in almost every home. It’s one of those small
anchors that you use to hang pictures with. When you drill a hole in the wall, you place
a little plastic thing inside, to hold the screw. It’s commonly called “anchor” in the USA
but even there not everybody knows what the word means.
Instead of an anchor, you can use an aquarium bubbler stone (air stone), a small
irrigation diffuser or a plastic aquarium diffuser. As long as it is small enough to stick
into a ¼” hose, and can diffuse the air into smaller bubbles, it’s good.
My Lists
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CHAPTER 5
BUILDING A WIRE ELECTROLYZER
LET’S GET FAMILIAR WITH THE ELECTROLYZER
FOR DIESEL: Part (4) is not necessary; for Part (6) only one hose necessary;
more details in Chapter 13.
The base of the device, its housing, is the jar and then the rest is build on the white
plastic cap, the jar lid. The lid carries the Bubbler Cap (1) that lets air in from the
atmosphere and regulates the bubbling, the electrical terminals (2) and (3) that let the
electric power connect to the electrodes (5).

The electrodes (5) are stainless steel wires wrapped around an acrylic “tower” (the red
part shown inside the jar; you can make it in any color you like).
There is also Valve (4) which is for safety, and one or two output Valves (6). The output
hoses are two 6” long pieces of vacuum hose. [Again, only one hose for Diesel and one
output valve (6) for Diesel]. Valves (6) are not glued to the jar lid for maintenance
convenience – sometimes they need to be removed for cleaning or replacement.
CLARIFICATION REGARDING THE CHECK VALVES

Many readers have asked me about Part 4, the Pressure Release Valve; seemingly it is
the most misunderstood part
– so let me explain what it
does. It is there for safety
reasons only. In normal
operation, it’s always closed.
It is a "check valve", a
component to allow air/liquid
flow in one direction only. In
our application, we glue it on
top of the device POINTING
UPWARD. It will let air flow
OUT but not in.
Why? In normal operation, a

gasoline engine sucks all the
HHO out of the device, by
vacuum. Just in case the
engine stops doing that, or
for some reason the output hose is clogged, we DO NOT WANT PRESSURE BUILDUP
inside the device. If pressure starts to build up inside (water expands into gas) the
Pressure Release Valve would release that pressure into the atmosphere (once HHO
mixes with atmospheric air, it will not be explosive).
So again, this is a check valve

pointing upward - or in other
words letting flow out of the
device but not in. In normal
operation the vacuum inside the
device will make sure that the
Pressure Release Valve stays
closed at all times.
Part (4) in the Electrolyzer photo is borrowed from aquarium technology and I got it
from a fish store. In modern designs I replaced it with a smaller, more accurate yet

cheaper check valve. It is the small blue valve in the small diagram above, which I
have found in a medical supplies catalog.
Remember that all three check valves – Part (4) and Part (6) – are both pointing
OUTward from the jar. The valve on top acts as a pressure release valve, to be opened
only in the rare case of totally clogged (both) lines, in which case we do not want
pressure build up inside the device.
Why are the output valves (6) necessary? When installing the Electrolyzer, one popular
way is to use BOTH of its HHO outputs and we’ll go over it in details in the installation
chapter. However, the importance of these added valves is to prevent backflow between
the engine’s intake manifold and its air intake. Usually only one valve would be open,
allowing flow only to one of the outputs, depending on throttle position.
This tells you that in Diesel installations you will not need check valves at all, but it is
better that you read the Diesel chapters before building Electrolyzers for Diesels.
MANUFACTURING TOOLS
The following list is not mandatory. This is simply what I have found useful and time
saving when I was mass-producing Electrolyzers:
 Self-locking long-nose pliers, small

 Regular pliers, preferably thick long-nose, 3” or 4”
 Wire cutters
 Open wrench (or ring wrench), with size to fit your screws and bolts
 Electric drill
 Drill bits, ¼” and 7/32”
 Solder iron
 Caliper or accurate ruler
 Sanding paper, thin
 Terminal crimper
 Glue: Plumbing Goop™ and Super Glue™ (Crazy Glue™)
 Protective gear: work gloves, goggles and respiratory protection.
PROCEDURE Follow safety precautions provided in Chapter 17
Get all the parts and supplies. Chapter 4 provides online/offline sources and estimated
costs. Do this AFTER you’ve studied this book series when you know what parts you
would need and what you wouldn’t, according to your engine type and its sensors.
Start with creating the lid (cap) of the jar. The lid is the basis upon which everything
else will be build on, leaving the jar to function as the housing. The lid should be a
plastic one otherwise it would create an electrical short circuit between anode and
cathode, burning the fuse every time.

It is possible to use the original, metallic lid that comes with the jar. But the electrical
problem mentioned above require several insulated washers and special attention. Not
every experimenter agrees, yet I think the price of a plastic lid is not worth the trouble.
In the USA and Canada quart-size jars are standard; in other countries use what’s
available in 1-liter, tempered glass. You can order American-made “Ball” jars (also called
“Mason Jars”) from OSH stores (Part #1050129), from www.Amazon.com or from one of
the vendors at www.Water4Gas.com
Preparing the lid

Clean the plastic lid of any dust and especially the
oily layer left by its manufacturing process. You
can use vodka which is less toxic than acetone and
chemical alcohols.
If there’s a little bump in the center of the plastic

lid (bottom side), flatten it using a soldering
iron. Just be careful not to puncture the lid!
My son invented an alternative technique that

worked well for him: if you do not have a soldering
iron handy, use a disposable shaving razor to
cut off the bump. Place the razor on the bump and move it left and right like a knife.
Making the holes

Mark and drill holes in the lid. Use the DRILLING TEMPLATE provided below – print it to
scale and drill through the printout. The measurements are not critical but try to be as
close as possible to the template. Distances are based on functionality and ease of
construction alike. Note that two different drill bits are required. In absence of a drill,
make the holes using a solder iron.
WARNING: Using a solder iron or any other heating element on the plastic will definitely
create toxic fumes. Work in a well ventilated area and do not inhale the fumes –
place a fan behind you or sideways and let the fumes flow away from your face. For
optimum health safety use the gas mask described above.
Refer to the DRILLING TEMPLATE below for marking correct hole location:
● The upper two holes (A+B), ¼” each, are for the elbows (HHO outputs).
● A bit lower on the center line (C), 7/32”, is for the check valve hole.
● The two holes on the horizontal line (D+E), ¼” each, for the terminal bolts.
● The lower single hole (F), 7/32”, is for the Bubbler Cap (air inlet).

Preparing for glue

Clean the holes. Using thin sand paper roughen a small area around each hole, from the
upper and lower sides, so the glue can later on stick better to the surface. I do this step
with a piece of sanding paper glued to a cork driven by an electric drill, as shown in the
photo below. The cork is held in the drill by a bamboo stick, which also serves as a guide
when you stick its other end in the drilled hole:

Construction Follow safety precautions provided in Chapter 17

Glue two flat washers onto the lid’s holes D and E, upper side, using Super Glue™. You
can use Plumbers Goop™ as well, but I chose Super Glue for its fast curing time and its
thinness. If you prefer to work with Goop, use a THIN layer and let it cure WITH
PRESSURE for 24 hours before proceeding.
Insert and glue one barbed “elbow” onto the 6” vacuum hose, using Goop. At the other
end insert one barbed coupling (without glue). Make two of these.
Using Plumbers Goop or J-B Weld™ (in Australia: DynaGrip™ QuikSteel™ Paste), insert
and glue onto the lid, the HHO outputs (the two barb elbows with the two 6” vacuum
hoses that you’ve just prepared).
Secure the bottom part of each elbows (under the lid) with ¼” nut, screwed on using
pliers and glued with Goop. It’s quite tricky; in order to succeed you must grip the nut
strongly using a small Vice Grip™ pliers (self-locking long-nose pliers works best here),
while supporting the elbow with the other hand.
Tie the hoses together using a cable tie (make sure not to over-tighten since that may
block free gas flow).

Secure the nuts to the elbows with small bits of Crazy Glue, on the visible part of each
nut’s thread as shown below:
Using Plumbers Goop or J-B Weld/QuikSteel, insert and glue the check valve onto the
lid. The check valve may be fastened (on the lower side of the lid) with a self-locking nut
or a small piece of tubing (0.17” inner diameter) glued with Crazy Glue (Super Glue). Do
it quickly while the Goop is still wet, and support the check valve with your other hand
so it doesn’t fall off the lid.
As explained earlier, we glue the check valve on top of the device POINTING UPWARDS
in order to let gas OUT but not in. When you build the device, then, make sure this

check valve, the Pressure Release Valve, points outward. Both of its ends must be open.
Do not connect it to any hose, tubing, cap, or anything else.
Secure the parts with more Goop if necessary, as shown in the photo below:
“Tower” for Electrodes

Now build a Plexiglas core
(nicknamed “Tower”) for
holding the electrode wires.
Plexiglas is an acrylic sheet
material that in some countries
is called ‘Perspex’ or just
‘acrylic sheets’.
Option ❶ no gluing
Cut two pieces of 3/16” to ¼”
thick Plexiglas with slots cut
halfway as shown in the
diagram below, so they can
slide into each other.
The optimal outside dimensions

we’ve found for each Plexiglas piece are 2.15” (55 mm) width by 5¾” (146 mm) length.
The two parts from the above photo dove-tail into each other; gluing is optional and
may help to ease up the rest of the procedure.

Option ❷ easier cut, some gluing necessary

The drawing illustrates an optional way of building the
tower. You’ll need accurate cutting. Join the parts
using Plexiglas cement that can be obtained from
www.plexiglas-shop.com/shopselect.htm
or from
www.eplastics.com
Option ❸ Groove the “tower” much easier building and maintenance

I highly recommend this method. For easy winding of the electrodes on the tower, I cut
grooves into its edges, as shown in the photos below. This helps tremendously when
winding the electrodes, and also eliminates the need to glue the wire to the Plexiglas.
The grooves are usually cut at ¼” intervals (tighter winding requiring more wire but
creates stronger electrolysis).

 As you can see in

these towers that I’ve
built, IT IS POSSIBLE to
do a very neat job of
wrapping the wires
evenly, even without
grooves. However, it is
not easy. The solution is
to GROOVE THE TOWER.
The grooves don’t have

to be deep, just deep
enough to stop the wire
from sliding along the
tower.
The grooves can be

symmetrical on all sides,
but I make one side
biased by 1/8" (3.2 mm)
to create a smooth coil
as you wind it down.
You may choose to glue

the Plexiglas “tower” to the lid. I used to do it but now I skip this step. Instead, I
achieve strong attachment of the tower by threading the upper ends of both electrodes
through the 3/16” holes in the Plexiglas. This also allows the lid to flex under strong
vacuum without breaking any glue. Gluing the tower to the lid seldom holds for a long
time.
Now cut a length of stainless steel wire. The exact length depends on your tower and
can only be learned by actual trial & error. Once you know the length, cut a DOUBLE
LENGTH for each electrode and fold it in half.
Place the middle point (the fold) of the wire on a ¼” bolt, and tie it around the bolt (one
or two turns). To get a neat, more effective and more durable electrode I twist the
electrode using a SLOW electric drill. If you don’t have a drill, braid it manually using
self locking pliers. The finished product
looks something like this: 
To save time, I wind the wire’s fold

around the actual bolt that’s going to be
used in the finished product. I drilled a
¼” hole in my workbench and now I stick
the bolt in that hole, in order to hold it
while the electrode is being wound. These are my own time-saving tricks and you’re
welcome to use your own methods.

Insert the bolt – with the electrode wire on it – into the lid FROM THE BOTTOM SIDE UP.
Add a split washer (and a flat washer if it’s not glued on the lid already) and a ¼” nut.
I tighten the nut using a wrench from upper side of lid, with an angled wrench or self-
locking pliers from bottom side. CAUTION: use moderate force to prevent damage to the
plastic lid. Refer to the diagram below for the preferred order of parts:
Insert the loose end of the electrode you’ve made above, through one of the 3/16” holes
in the tower. Then position the tower in its final place under the lid (bottom side,
centered).
Using one hand to stretch the electrode wire and the other hand to hold the tower, start
winding the electrode in a spiral motion down the tower.
If you have no grooves:

Start with a strong pitch (step) down the tower and then slow down to a 3/4” pitch.
When you arrive at the lower part of the tower, secure the edge of the electrode using
pliers. Make sure it winds evenly and tightly around the Plexiglas. Look at a sample
Electrolyzer, if you have one, or watch the DVD available on our website. Some practice
is required to achieve the desired result.
Repeat the same steps for the second electrode.
When you’re done, make sure the wires are straight. Inspect the result: the electrodes
should wind down with an even distance between them most of the way down. In the
photo below (no grooves), it starts with a ¾” pitch and comes closer together to a 3/8”
pitch from the second tap down, as the electrodes enter the submerged area. In later
models I made it tighter at ¼” AND with grooves as shown on next page, second photo.

Glue the electrodes where they touch the tower. Use PLUMBERS GOOP or similar
WATERPROOF glue. A thin to moderate layer of GOOP is all it takes as long as the wire is
covered with glue on both sides. The glue cures in minutes – but let it acquire its full
strength – wait 24 hours before use! It emits unpleasant odors while curing – let it
cure in a well ventilated area, away from children, adults and pets. With a grooved
tower (shown below) you should skip this gluing step.

Prepare the bubbling tube by cutting 6” clear vinyl or irrigation-type non-clear tubing
with 0.17” inner diameter. Insert a small anchor into the lower edge of this tubing. This
is where the bubbling would come out, so make sure enough air can flow through the
anchor. I cut off a portion of its sharper side (about a third), before inserting it into the
tubing.
Glue the air inlet Bubbler Cap using Goop. 
From the bottom of the lid, insert and glue the bubbler tubing onto the lower part of the
air inlet, as shown in the photo below. The tubing should be secured to the lid with a
small amount of Plumbers Goop (don’t clog the opening!)
Secure the loose end of this tubing to one of

the electrodes, using a small cable tie 
Add wingnuts to both bolts. If you made the

electrodes from two different metals, MAKE
SURE THE RED WINGNUT CONNECTS TO
THE ANODE (I spray-paint regular wingnuts
with fast-drying red and black paint).

HOW I WIND THE TOWER –

NEW PHOTOS
Disregard the extra holes in the lid – at the
moment I’m only demonstrating how you should
get the electrodes firmly affixed to the tower (the
Plexiglas core), and the tower affixed to the lid –
easily and without glue. I did this hundreds of
times. Featured on TV news, on a show called
Problem Solvers (WPLG—Florida). This
First insert the electrode wire sets, each with its manufacturer (obviously a reader) was
proud of his improved Electrolyzers.
bolt and a washer as shown below, into their holes
from the BOTTOM of the lid. Secure each bolt with a washer and a nut from above, then
tighten with the electrode wires pointing sideways as shown below:
Now insert the electrodes into the holes drilled in the tower, as shown. Pull them fully –
this will tighten the tower to the lid:
Start winding ONE electrode wire over

the tower, making sure to leave the

right grooves free for the other one, as shown below. Don’t try to do it all at once
because the wire would be loose; pull the electrode wire one section (one side) at a
time, bending it a bit around each groove and making sure it’s tight before you turn the
tower to continue.
Once you’ve done the lowest groove for that electrode, thread the wire through the last
hole and lock it by making another loop into that hole, as shown below. Don’t cut it yet.

Now repeat the process for the second electrode, using the vacant grooves:
Once you have finished both electrodes and locked them at the bottom as shown, FIRST
CHECK YOUR WORK and then you can cut the excess wire. If you made a mistake go
back and redo the winding. Don’t worry, it’s not hard and if you do this a few times you
would get the hang of it shortly. Your finished tower should look like this:

FINAL ASSEMBLY
Carefully inspect the finished unit for missing parts or missing glue, loose connections or
clogged tubing. Also pay attention to electrical connections: each electrode, each line –
positive or negative voltage – should be uninterrupted (uncut) and also disconnected
from the other line (because a short circuit would burn the fuse).
After the inspection insert the finished unit into a wide-mouth canning jar (mason jar).
Many experimenters have found that they were having a hard time getting the white
plastic lid to properly seal the jar – unless one applies great force to it; sometimes even
that doesn’t prevent leaks. To get a tight vacuum seal with less effort, use a rubber O-
ring or rubber gasket inside the lid (where it touches the top of the jar). Some use
gaskets made to order from EDPM (Ethylene-Propylene-Diene Monomer which is uncured
rubber), neoprene (synthetic rubber) or natural rubber, and others use "Form-a-Gasket"
which is a paste type product available in auto parts stores and Ace Hardware.
If you cannot find or make gaskets, visit www.Water4Gas.com and ask for help. This is
an important point.
Electrical Harness
Use the following wiring diagram to manufacture the wiring harness. For improved
safety place the short part of the fuse holder facing the spade terminal. The reason: in
case there is live 12 volts on the wire, it will be protected by the fuse holder casing.
NOTE: Wire lengths in the diagram are designed for mass production.
If you’re making this harness for a specific vehicle or generator,
use the necessary lengths to fit your setup.

CHAPTER 6
BUILDING A BOLT ELECTROLYZER
INTRODUCTION
The Bolt-Electrolyzer is a simpler version of the wire (spiral) Electrolyzer. The differences
per my understanding and experience are:
1. Bolts will last longer. Switching the electrical wires (once the Anode – the positive
voltage bolt – has partially corroded) will make the device last even longer.
2. Bolts are easier to clean/replace.
3. Simpler and faster to build. No Plexiglas. As a result, also much simpler to teach
students. When I was teaching students of a Los Angeles high school to build
Electrolyzers, the hardest part was winding the wires around the tower.
4. You lose the electromagnetic effect of spiraled electrodes on electrolysis, and I’m
not sure how that affects engine performance. I prefer the spirals.
5. This bolt design will produce less HHO, and you can try and compensate by
adding more catalyst in order to draw more Amps.
6. You can use standard stainless steel (grade 302-304) without too much trouble.
Grade 316L is still superior but not an absolute must when using bolts.
MATERIALS
 A mason jar (not shown in the photos; same jar described in Chapter 5).
 A plastic lid for mason jar, preferably with a rubber gasket (see Chapter 5).
 Two 7/16” (11 mm) stainless steel threaded bolts, 6 inches (152 mm) long.
These measurements are not critical but if you change the bolts make sure to
obtain matching washers and nuts. The photos below show an Electrolyzer built
with 5/16” (8 mm) bolts, that was reported to work well. Remember that thicker
bolts will not only have more contact surface, but will also last longer due to their
thickness. It is also not critical if the bolts are threaded all the way through or
partially threaded, the difference being that full-thread has larger contact surface
with the electrolyte.
 Four 7/16” stainless steel nuts.
 Four galvanized washers. Sealing washers (see photo below) preferred.

 Two 7/16” wingnuts.
 Same bubbler cap as in wire Electrolyzer (see Chapter 5).
 Same check valve (see Chapter 5).
 6 inches is all you need for a regular jar 
This is the type of sealing washers used here.

If you can’t get sealing washers (washers with
rubber) then get regular washers and seal
them with Plumbers Goop or similar glue during
assembly.

BUILDING THE BOLT ELECTROLYZER LID

Follow safety precautions provided in Chapter 17
The photos below are pretty much self-explanatory. The construction of the Electrolyzer
follows the same preparatory and construction steps described in Chapter 5. The only
differences are as follows:
Refer to the DRILLING TEMPLATE provided below. When drilling holes (D) and (E), make
sure to match the diameter of your bolts.
NOTE: If you’re wondering where point (B) went, that

appears in the wire Electrolyzer template, then the
explanation is simple. A single HHO output was used when
we shot the photos for this chapter. If you need a second
HHO outputs you can T it off (via an external T connector)
from the single output marked as (A) in this template.
The steps for building and winding the tower are replaced by attaching the bolts to the
lid as shown on the next page.

The bolts are

installed on the
lid in holes (D)
and (E) as
shown 
For best results

and easier
maintenance,
use sealing
washers on
both sides of
the lid.

Leave enough length at the upper end

of the bolt (above the lid) for the
electrical spade terminal and wing nut.
Install the bubbler cap, check valve and

output nipple as described in Chapter 5.
The result should look as shown in these
photos:
NOTE: if you need a second HHO

output for your installation,
you can T it off externally
from this single output.

CHAPTER 7
WHAT’S WRONG WITH PLATE
ELECTROLYZER?
NOTHING WRONG WITH IT!
I personally prefer the spiral design due to the magnetic vortex effect that the spiral
electrodes add to the process of electrolysis. It’s not strong enough to magnetize heavy
metal objects, yet I believe a spiral always helps especially when it comes to water and
even more so for water in motion.
But as I said before, this is minor therefore the bolt design is not far behind.
CONSIDER YOUR OPTIONS

How will you build one with plates? A couple plates hanging somehow inside a jar? Or in
a tube? Well, it can work and some experiments have done so. But it should be done
right and here are my experience and recommendations regarding such a design:
1. Using light-switch cover plates seems easy and affordable. The problem is that
such plates are of inferior metal not created to withstand electrolysis, and are so
thin that they’ll corrode in no time. If you want a quick proof of concept, why not
use bolts?
2. Stainless steel of 316L grade is the only option for long-term electrolysis. One
problem is the higher costs. For some experimenters, budget is not an issue. But
in certain communities that are struggling already, every penny counts.
3. The other problem are the necessary tools. Not every enthusiast has a workshop.
In studio City I built 200 Water4Gas systems, all the while not having access to
tools capable of cutting and drilling THICK plates of the hard steel like the 316L.
In fact, I never had any of those tools and I still don’t have them. What I loved
most about the spiraled wire design was the ability to build Electrolyzers easily
with my bare hands and regular pliers – and maintain them just as easily.
4. Therefore, if you have the ability to cut and drill plates, then you could probably
build higher level compartments for them, such as the “dry cell” design or some
other complex Electrolyzer. For DIY and backyard experimenters, and for lowest-
cost yet proven Water4Gas success, I would definitely recommend to most
readers that you follow the instructions provided in Chapter 5.

CHAPTER 8
BUILDING A MULTI-CELL
WHAT CAN THIS DO FOR ME?
Good question. Before we go into the technicalities, you should know that we’ve had
success with the use of this simple design on two “big rigs” (18-wheeler, semi trailer
truck) - they reported very good mileage gains with the Multi-Cell systems shown below.
The truck drivers-owners reported saving $100’s/week, and that their trucks pulled
better uphill with their old engines felling “like new” once more even though each had
over 1 million miles on the engine! Therefore I have concluded that this is a very
workable do-it-yourself design.
 Multi-Cell system created by a reader and

displayed in a public Water4Gas event.

HOW MUCH BETTER IS ITS FUEL ECONOMY?

I performed comparison road tests with my Toyota Corolla ‘99, and my numbers
indicated that my Multi-Cell system improved mileage but did not double what I was
already getting from one Electrolyzer cell. It’s been about 52 MPG with a single jar and it
went up to about 61.3 MPG with six jars. Was it worth it?
Advantage ❶ For me, the extra savings was well

worth it.
Advantage ❷ It was a pleasant surprise to find out

that I was now able to drive FOUR months without
maintenance OR refill. While saving even more fuel.
This is how each of my 6 cells looked like 

after 4 months of normal driving around town. I didn’t
take the exact miles driven, but as you can see 80%
of the water is still there and not much dirt at the
bottom. My estimate: I could have driven 7-8 months
without adding water.
Advantage ❸ After a wash and some scrubbing

with an old toothbrush under water, it looked almost
as good as new, as you can see in the next photo.
Obviously each Electrolyzer didn’t have to work as hard. THE CELLS STAY VERY COOL
TO THE TOUCH even after a long drive. My conclusion: less heat = less evaporation =
more HHO to vapor ratio.

WHY IS IT BETTER?
This diagram was taken from Patrick Kelly’s “Practical Guide to Free Energy Devices”:
The theory, in short: more current creates more HHO. But the voltage across the cell
does not need to be as high as possible. In fact, when we operate with 12 volts we get
more heat which is wasted energy that also creates fast evaporation. The theory says
that 1.24 volts is the ideal value and the rest is unnecessary heat. However, through
actual trial and error I HAVE FOUND 6 VOLTS TO BE THE OPTIMAL VOLTAGE when the
catalyst is Baking Soda. That’s true for the Water4Gas Electrolyzers taught in this
book, but not for every other Electrolyzer design.
HOW TO BUILD A MULTI-CELL?

The photo below demonstrates how simple the construction. The same Electrolyzer as in
Chapter 5, with one major difference: only one HHO output.
I have also found that for best results the spiral should have a higher pitch (¼” steps).
If the electrode spirals are spread between ½" and 3/8" apart, it would work well for 12
volts. But since here we use 6 VOLTS the electrodes need more contact with the
electrolyte to achieve the necessary current and HHO production. I start with 4-5
teaspoons of Baking Soda and reach optimal performance experimentally.
The Multi-Cell theory works well for eliminating wasted heat: each cell in a Water4Gas
Multi-Cell can operate at 4-5 amps without overheating, due to the lower voltage as
explained above. With 12 volts a single Water4Gas cell starts to overheat with 4 amps.
With a Multi-Cell, there’s less heat and more overall HHO for the same current.

This is the
principal setup.
Each output is
connected to a
common manifold
that collects HHO
from all the cells.
Electrical Setup Follow safety precautions provided in Chapter 17

Instead of all cells (Electrolyzers) in series, it’s
only two in series at a time, always paired up,
giving 6 Volts to each and every cell no matter
the total number of cells.
Connect each such pair in parallel to another

pair as shown in the diagram. The electrical
current taken from the vehicle would be a
multiplication of the number of pairs you
connect. For example, if each of your pairs
takes 2 Amps, the setup in the diagram would
require 6 Amps total.

Mechanical Setup – Gasoline Engine

The manifold can be a
strong plastic tubing, or a
small plastic bottle.
Connect the single output

of the manifold to the
engine as you would a
single cell.
Water4Gas Electrolyzers
Mechanical Setup – Diesel Engine

TWO manifolds are necessary for Diesel. The output manifold is the same. A second
INPUT manifold is necessary to drive pressure into the cells, and a regulator to adjust
the pressure level. More about Diesel installations in Chapter 13 and Chapter 14.
Water4Gas Electrolyzers

MECHANICAL INSTALLATION
I found the front area of many cars and trucks most convenient for installing a Multi-
Cell. Six cells will probably fit nicely, in line, just in front of the radiator. Some of the
airflow to the radiator may be blocked, but not all of it if you leave some space between
the cells. Airflow will then curve itself around the cells and reach the radiator.
Additionally, if we take into consideration the cooling effect of these cells on the engine,
there shouldn’t be a problem with some blockage of airflow.
As for heat, the cells would be in one of the coolest places under the hood. I highly
recommend that you protect the jars AND THE RADIATOR from mechanical shock by
well-glued foam stripes, or similar shock absorbing material.
Other options:
1. Relocate the battery TO THE TRUNK.

2. Replace the air filter box with an aftermarket filter such as K&N, leaving a lot of
room for 4-6 Electrolyzers.
3. Also, consider placing the Multi-Cell in the trunk, and connecting the HHO output
to a thick hose going through the vehicle’s body all the way to the engine. If
there’s not enough vacuum, and only if there really IS a vacuum problem such as
in Diesel, add a small vacuum pump to help convey the HHO to the engine.
I’ve done this in my Volkswagen Jetta and it worked well. My mechanic used a
very durable hose and secured it UNDER the car. This method did not fail along
1000’s of miles across country, in all weather conditions.
The photos below show my mechanical installation in my Toyota Corolla ‘99. The
materials: Hanger Strap from Home Depot (bar code 03875333929-0 or similar) and ¼”
bolts/nuts. The photos below show how I constructed these to fit the available spaces.

ADD THICK
PLYWOOD TO
SUPPORT
THE CELLS
OTHER INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS

The way to connect a Multi-Cell to the engine is pretty simple and straightforward as
described above. If you’re using the dual HHO connection, which means you want to
supply HHO to both the Intake Manifold of the engine AND the Air Intake, then two
output check valves are recommended as usual.
In my opinion there is no room for a sloppy job when it comes to a Multi-Cell

arrangement of any size. Since there are so many places that the electrical connection
or the mechanical connection can go wrong, you have to make sure that:
 There are no loose electrical connections, and
 There are no vacuum leaks anywhere on the Electrolyzers, the manifold or the
hose(s) leading to the engine.

The diagram and photo below show how the HHO is connected in Carter Blankenship’s
18-wheeler truck:

HOW TO MAKE A MANIFOLD

One experimenter from South Dakota asked where to get the manifold. He said there
are no gardening supplies anywhere around there. My answer was:
 You don’t need gardening supplies to make a manifold.
 Just take a big tubing to serve as the collecting tube. For example a 1” PVC tube.
Smaller will do too, just make it big enough to attach adapters to it. You don’t
want it large because it would then become an HHO storage tank – we don’t want
and don’t need that.
 Drill six holes (or whatever number of cells you have).
 Insert nipples or hose adapters of some sort into each hole. It could be irrigation
adapters, or anything that can fit your vacuum tubing coming from the cells.
Match their size to the hoses you’ll be using.
 Drill and attach one more OUTPUT adapter, to fit a larger hose of your choice
(such as 3/8”) that will lead the HHO to the engine.
 Glue all nipples/adapters tight, let harden.
 That’s it – you’ve got a manifold! Attach the vacuum hoses, one from each of the
cells.
 Make sure there are no vacuum leaks or blocked passages.
EXPERIMENTATION SHOWED LOW MAINTENANCE

REQUIRED
The arrangement with three cell pairs has been working in my Toyota for a long time
WITH VERY LITTLE MAINTENANCE. The devices always stay very cool, and the water
goes down very slowly, while producing a lot of HHO.
It now draws a total of roughly 10.5 Amps, or 3.5 Amps per line. This means each cell
consumes 6.5 volts x 3.5 amps = 22.75 Watts. That’s bird feed. Multiply that by six cells
and the entire Multi-Cell “dances” on 136 Watts! It’s less than the typical halogen
headlamps (180 Watts). Many car stereo systems today consume more than that.
In 2007, after 4 months of driving with zero maintenance, the electrolyte was not very
dirty, the lower grade stainless steel electrodes (grade 302/304 – not the better grade
316L that I use now) did not corrode by much; water level went down only 25%.
I cleaned the electrodes with toothbrush and tap water, reversed the polarity and the
set was near-new again. I like the idea of having to service the system only three
times a year!!!

EXPERIMENTAL “12 PACK”

I installed this 12-cell system in my Volkswagen Jetta with a TDI (turbo Diesel injected)
1.8 liter engine. It was installed in the trunk and did not produce a significant change in
fuel economy over the 6-cell system. Besides, it’s too bulky for a family car but you may
find it useful for your large truck or boat.

CHAPTER 9
BUILDING A VAPORIZER
THIS DEVICE IS A SIMPLE ALTERNATIVE TO AN ELECTROLYZER, USUALLY WITH
LESSER RESULTS. IT IS NOT PART OF A STANDARD SYSTEM!!!
EPA HAS BEEN PUBLISHING IT FOR DECADES

The handmade diagram shown below shows a device titled “Atomized Vapor Injector”
that was submitted for EPA approval by Lewis J. Schneller of Montana, USA, back in
1982. The complete document can be downloaded from the EPA’s official website:
http://www.epa.gov/OMS/consumer/devices/pb83214684.pdf
Basically this is the same simple Vaporizer that Tom Lang installed in my Ford Bronco
back in 2006, just before I founded Water4Gas. I loved it because it made that 20-year
old “truck” run much smoother and quieter, and drastically reduced the terrible
emissions of its old fuel-injected engine. I was using only tap water! The inventor priced
it at $29.95 but you can build one for under $2.

AFFORDABILITY
Judging from old US Patents, I believe this design to be about 100 years old. It worked
all by itself to improve combustion and reduce emissions in my Ford Bronco and others.
It can be constructed quickly for a few dollars. DUE TO COMPUTER PROBLEMS THAT
WILL BE DISCUSSED IN BOOK 2, AND POSSIBLY OTHER
PROBLEMS WITH CERTAIN ENGINES, THE VAPORIZER
DOES NOT INCREASE MILEAGE ON MANY MODERN
VEHICLES AND MUST BE EXPERIMENTED WITH ON A CASE-
BY-CASE BASIS AND COUNTRY BY COUNTRY. However,
when combined with the Volo device sold on our website,
which is affordable and easy to install, the Vaporizer can be a simple yet effective
booster of Fuel & Maintenance Economy.
To connect it in the engine you may also need the "Universal Vacuum T" that can be
obtained from Auto Zone for $2.49 (Part # 47349).
PARTS
1. One Mason Jar – they are sold at OSH stores for $1.12
each (when you purchase a dozen). Part number 1050129 is
the widemouth, but any similar jar will do, like the regular
(narrow mouth) mason jar by Ball, sold at OSH for $1.04, Part
# 1050061.
Even a used mayonnaise tempered glass jar will do, as long as

it’s about a quart (roughly 1 liter) in size, or anything else that
can fit somewhere next to your engine.
Are you thinking right now of “upgrading” it to plastic? LET ME

TELL YOU RIGHT AWAY THAT THIS GLASS JAR IS THE BEST. It
lasts indefinitely in any car or truck I’ve seen. It will outlive any
plastic and is actually cheaper! Another good reason to use
glass is that some plastics will give in to the strong vacuum
from the engine.
2. One "Elbow" fitting – costs about 9 cents each

(sold in small packs). Find it at the irrigation
department of Home Depot, or order part number
FITH83-1 from www.gardenrip.org 
Also available, under another part number, from

http://www.gardendrip.org/hydrogen.htm

3. One Bubbler Cap – costs around 40 cents. Order it

online from http://www.gardendrip.org/hydrogen.htm
(goes by many names “Adjustable Bubbler DAB” or
“Adjustable Dripper” or “Adjust-A-Bubbler”). Or find it
under the name “Adjustable Dripper on Barb” at the
irrigation department of Home Depot.
4. Six inches of vinyl tubing (0.17" inner diameter) – costs 7 cents when
cut from a 20’ pack, Home Depot PLUMBING DEPT. Any thin irrigation
tubing will do if you don’t have the clear one; color and exact material are
not important as long as its inner diameter is about 0.17” 
5. One anchor* out of a pack from Home Depot, usually in

the Electrical Department (I used the Yellow Anchor 100-pk If it tends to
“Crown Bolt” Ribbed Anchors 4-6x7/8, barcode squash under
76818030010). This anchor fits perfectly into the tubing, the strong
its outer diameter is 0.19” - You can substitute it with any vacuum,
replace with
similar anchor if you don’t need the whole package. About
vacuum hose
3 cents each.
* Anchor: one of those pointed pieces of plastic that

you stick into the wall to hold a screw.
6. Plumbing Goop - find at the painting department of Home Depot or Ace Hardware.
You can also use J-B Weld, Epoxy, etc.
HEALTH WARNING: DO NOT INHALE THE FUMES OF THESE GLUES!!!

FOLLOW THE SAFETY GUIDELINES ON EACH PACKAGE.

CONSTRUCTING THE VAPORIZER

Cut a 6” piece of vinyl tubing.
Cut the tip of the anchor (remove about 1/3 off the pointed side) and stick it into the
end of the tubing. This is the easiest and cheapest tip I have found, but you may choose
to use an aquarium bubbler stone
instead, or an irrigation diffuser
(spray or mist tip). In any case MAKE
SURE IT LETS AIR PASS THROUGH.
Drill or punch two holes in the flat part of the jar’s lid. One ¼” hole in the middle, and
one 7/32” hole about 3/4” from the edge. I purchased a basic punch set at Harbor
Freight Tools for under $6, which makes holes with one or two hits of a hammer over
some soft wood or plastic; saves time and makes very neat holes:
Note: the metal lid will eventually rust in the presence of water. Two possible solutions:
(a) paint it with rust-proof paint; or better yet (b) the most durable solution would be a
plastic lid from the sources provided above for the Electrolyzer - be sure to get the
WIDEMOUTH lid, if you’re using the widemouth jar (regular jars are just as useful here).

But for testing purposes, the

original lid (unpainted metal) will
do and will probably survive
several months without rusting
too heavily. Don’t worry about
the engine because the rust won’t
get into the engine.
Using Goop, glue the parts to the

lid as shown in these photos
(glue not shown).
Add goop glue to these parts at the bottom side of the lid, as shown in the next photo.
Sometimes I add a ¼” nut on the elbow, PLUS glue on both. It just makes it easier to
hold everything in place, but the elbow can be fastened with a small cable tie or a piece
of wire just as well:

After glue and some black paint, it may look like

 this. Usually I don’t paint the rotating rim
because it has little contact with water. Only the
center stationary part is painted.
Fill it with TAP WATER to an inch

from the top. For maximum safety
DO NOT add alcohol.
That’s it! The Vaporizer is ready for installation - See

Chapter 16 for installation instructions.
ENVIRONMENTAL PROJECT IDEA

Thanks to Joe Shea (www.HHOgames.com) for this great idea – to make and sell this
device (at $10 or so) by the
millions in Mexico City and other
heavily polluted cities – for the
sake of drastically and
immediately reducing air pollution
in those cities.
And why not have the people of

that city make it themselves,
under your supervision and
guidance? It is so easy to teach
and can be made with locally
available hardware.
Now who wants to pick up the

glove and DO IT???

CHAPTER 10
BUILDING A MAP/MAF SENSOR
ENHANCER
THIS DEVICE IS NOT ALWAYS NECESSARY.
Water4Gas Book 2 explains how to use this device to enhance fuel

economy. It is not needed on all engines, and is designed for
engines controlled by computers with certain sensors.
WHAT DOES IT DO?

This device is very simple and basically consists of a plastic box, two variable resistors
(potentiometers or “pots”), a switch and a few wires. Anyone who has basic training in
electronics and can solder parts together, can build this device in one afternoon.
BUILDING THE ENHANCER

I invented this design but never patented it, and it has been copied by many
experimenters and manufacturers with my blessing. I designed it with two
potentiometers so one can be set to city conditions while the other optimized for the
highway. NOTE THAT BOTH SIDES ARE IDENTICAL IN THEIR ELECTRONICS and it’s
arbitrary which side you want to mark “city” and which “highway.”

CITY HIGHWAY
(no mix-up here,

these are the sides)
The diagram means what it shows and have been verified several times to be workable
(resistor values may require changes in some cars). The pot sides should be soldered as
shown above. It has to be constructed exactly as shown for best results and that’s why I
put pictures instead of electronic symbols. When manufactured as shown, turning the
knobs clockwise would create a leaner mixture (higher economy).
You’re looking at two identical circuits, with a selecting switch. There are two parallel pot
circuits shown. The signal from the car’s sensor enters at the "higher" end of the pot.
The signal sees the pot in series with a resistor to ground. The ECU gets only a portion
of this incoming signal, depending on the position of the pot.
The fixed resistor (on either side) is there for a reason. The signal is not full range from
5 volt to zero. It has a more limited range closer to the 5 volt. Which makes the lower

end of the pot non usable, since there is no point in sending 1 or 2 volts to the engine –
it would kill it. So I added those resistors to enable a much wider rotation of the pot to
be usable. It makes tuning easier, as shown in the diagram below:
The best way to

understand this diagram is
to try one of these on a
real engine and see what
happens.
“No added resistor” simply

means that you would
have a direct wire
connection instead of the
resistors in the electronics
diagram (previous page).
NO ADDED RESISTOR RESISTOR ADDED
The photograph below shows how the parts are connected inside the box. To save time
and errors while I was manufacturing them, I printed these photos and duplicated the
wire connections exactly as shown.

The external wires are then connected as shown below. The external plug is useful for
maintenance of the device, but is not vital (you can wire the enhancer straight through
from the dashboard to the engine compartment although I do not recommend it). It is
best installed on or near the dashboard, as the driver may need to adjust it for best
performance.
Some experimenters reported that a 100K Ohm potentiometer is needed. According to

my experiments, measurements and calculations, the 50K does a good job. But I
haven’t tried all cars in the world, of course. The 100K and 50K should cost the same so
you’re welcome to experiment with both values, especially if you’re about to furnish an
entire fleet of similar vehicles with replications of this device.
In Book 2 of this series you

will learn about this factory-
made, versatile alternative
enhancer called ‘MAP/MAF
Sensor Enhancer’ that has
several advantages over the
DIY enhancer that you’ve
learned in this chapter.
It can be obtained from http://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/

CHAPTER 11
BUILDING A PCV ENHANCER
THIS DEVICE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED YET OPTIONAL.
It cleans the blow-by1 gases passing through the PCV.
PURPOSE
PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. It’s a system using a PCV valve to
evacuate “blow-by gases” and moisture from the crankcase of an internal combustion
engine. Well, that’s the official definition anyway... In fact, blow-by gases are a whole lot
of junk: burnt and un-burnt fuel and oil escaping from
the cylinder, then move past the piston rings (much
more if you have worn-out rings) during a piston’s
power stroke, and eventually enter the crankcase.
These by-products of combustion form acid and sludge
in the crankcase and cause smoke.
Naturally, these junk products do not assist Fuel &

Maintenance Economy either when the PCV system re-
circulates the junk back into the intake manifold – the
breathing part of the engine. The air entering the engine should NOT have sludge added
to it! The engine must breathe clean air in order to work properly – and this is where the
PCV Enhancer comes handy. It captures the junk and circulates clean air only.
1
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase
and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system

PARTS LIST
Qty Description Catalog # Source Barcode2
1 Husky™ Mini General Purpose HDA704 Home Depot™ 04556460664-0

Filter*
* You can also use the larger Husky General Purpose Filter, model HDA706, which has a
larger capacity for gunk and water collection. Several readers have reported that their
Home Depot branch stopped carrying this filter. Here are several alternatives:
 Alternatives #1: Lowe’s hardware stores sell an identical looking filter

made by Kobalt™. Model number KBA10600AV, Lowe’s item # 221024.
Alternative #2: Harbor Freight Tools, item # 68225 is similar and much
cheaper. Made by Central Pneumatic.
Alternative #3: "Inline Desiccant Dryer/Filter" 

by Central Pneumatic. Harbor Freight Tools, item # 68215.
The description says: "Removes water vapor, dirt, dust and oil
vapor. Changes from blue to pink when the filter needs
changing. Air inlet: ¼" NPT female; Air outlet: ¼" NPT
female." I haven’t tried it yet, but its even lower price makes it
worth trying if you cannot find Husky or Kobalt filters.
I’ve seen Water4Gas experimenters using it, however note that ¼” may
hinder PCV flow in certain engines. Prefer Husky/Kobalt filters or the
68225 filter by Central Pneumatic (which is the cheapest).
2 Watts™ 3/8” Hose Barb A-293 Home Depot™ 04864307449-1

Adapter**
** The Watts 3/8” adapters may be replaced with Husky 3/8” Adapters, if you find
them in stock. They come in pairs and are priced a bit lower than Watts. If you’re
building this device for a specific vehicle, you better verify beforehand the inner
diameter of your PCV lines, and use hose adapters to match.
4-6 ½” Stainless Steel Gear 62604 Home Depot™ 07857510304-4

Clamp
20 GLASS beads, 8 mm, round. 1967-31 Jo-Ann 65269539126-2

DO NOT USE PLASTIC BEADS. Crafts™
2
Barcodes tend to change over time but I left them here just in case the shop can relate
to these numbers even if changed.

STRUCTURE
Use the photo as a guideline. Making a PCV Enhancer is pretty simple:
Apply Teflon tape to

the male hose ends,
install them into the
air inlet and outlet
ports of the filter, and
tighten with a wrench.
Open the bowl (the

transparent part) by
hand, taking care
not to lose the
rubber o-ring, and
insert twenty 8-mm
balls/beads into it.
The number of
balls/beads may be
different in two cases:
either (a) you have a
different diameter
balls or beads, or (b)
you want to leave
more room for the
filtered out water and
gunk. I always fill it
up (20 balls).
Add a rubber/vinyl cap at the bottom, because the built-

in valve is designed for outward flow (pressure) rather
than vacuum. Without a cap it will leak no matter what
position you put the wing. The valve itself may also leak
– seal it with glue here:
The best way I have found to make a cap is to stick one

of the 8mm beads or bearing balls into a 3/8” (OD) vinyl
tubing (length not critical, about 1/2"-3/4" is good). For
extra comfort of use, I tie the cap with a short nylon wire
to the device, so it doesn’t get lost when removed for
cleaning.

Notes:
 This device is only for gasoline engines
equipped with a PCV system (most vehicles
I’ve seen).
 For our use the warning sticker (see photo) is

irrelevant as it applies to air compressors;
peel it off from the bowl. If you sell the
device, also discard the little manual that
comes with the filter, because it will only
confuse your customer.
 Note that nothing has been said here about

inlet and outlet differences. That’s because it didn’t matter so far. It will matter
only when installing the unit. See Chapter 15.
 To the best of my knowledge, BUILDING AND SELLING THE DEVICE DESCRIBED

IN THIS CHAPTER DO NOT INFRINGE ON THE PATENTS OF MR. ELMER W.
BUSH (1923-2004) REGARDING PCV ENHANCEMENTS. I’m not a lawyer and this
is my opinion. You can analyze this issue yourself – the US Patents can be
downloaded freely from:
o https://www.google.com/patents/USRE30682
o https://www.google.com/patents/US4370971
o https://www.google.com/patents/US4089309

CHAPTER 12
INSTALLATION – GASOLINE CAR
Installation of a typical Water4Gas
system is described in three major
parts:
 Mechanical
 Electrical
 Finalizing and activation.
Follow safety
precautions provided
in Chapter 17
MECHANICAL SETUP
Required Accessories
Vacuum Hose
¼” (7/32” I.D.) Length you’ll need TOTAL is 43” if you build two outputs. Less is needed
for a single output. Let me explain: you can build this device with one or two outputs.
The advantage of the double output is that it simplifies installation for the dual-HHO
supply.
Universal Vacuum Tee

Order from Imperial Supplies www.imperialinc.com by
phone 1-800-558-2808 (ask for item 37351 which is a 5-
pack). Or find at your local AutoZone store, part # 47349.
Electrical Wiring
Automotive wires can be obtained in almost any hardware or automotive store. For cost
effectiveness, purchase red and black 100-feet rolls of 14 gauge wire from AutoZone, at
$15/roll, which suits many of your wiring needs. I used to find it in the AutoZone stores
only, but now it’s also on www.AutoZone.com under Home>>Accessories>>Electrical>>
Wiring Accessories>>Electrical Wire. Or ask on the phone 1-800-288-6966.

Fuse Holder + Fuse

This can be any type of in-line fuse holder found at AutoZone, Home Depot or your
electronics store, like the blade type or the tubular type. Both types usually go for about
$2-$3 apiece.
FUSE TYPE: NEVER USE A WIRE OR ANY OTHER IMPROVISED FUSE. Use the standard
fuse that matches your fuse holder, and select its rating (usually 15 Amps to 20 Amps)
in accordance with recommended fuse ratings.
Other Accessories
Small bungee cords and cable straps may be obtained from any hardware store. I use
the 20-pack of 10” mini-bungees from Harbor Freight Tools (Item #93672) costing
$5.99 a pack ($0.30 each). A hundred 8” cable ties are now on sale for only $2.
Water
Get distilled water from the grocery store or hardware store.
For best results do not use rain water or tap water as those
may have unknown contaminants.
Catalyst 
I used this catalyst for years. Its chemical name is “Sodium
Bicarbonate” = Pure Baking Soda. You can get more of it at
most groceries. If you cannot find it or if you want SAFE
alternatives, see Chapter 17.
 Recommended Tool
I found it useful in a number of installations, especially as a
beginner, to have and use this low-cost but very
versatile vacuum gauge. Made by U.S. General, you
get a handy set with all connection types. Obtain for
only $15 from Harbor Freight Tools - item #93547 at
www.harborfreight.com
STARTING THE INSTALLATION

Mount the Water4Gas Electrolyzer in the engine compartment. It should be mounted
flat and level, and secured is such a manner as to assure that it cannot bounce around
when the vehicle hits bumps or turns. Choose a suitable location and position the device
so that it can easily be accessed and conveniently removed for re-filling, cleaning,
service or routine inspection.

IMPORTANT: INSTALL THE DEVICE AWAY FROM HOT AREAS as much

as possible. If you’re not sure where such an area exists, Harbor
Freight Tools carries a low-cost digital non-contact thermometer

(item 93983-2VGA). Use this tool to locate the coolest available
place in the engine area.
I cannot give you an exact number of degrees to represent “too hot”

because we have a combination of several heating factors: the weather,
engine, time, driving conditions and the electrolysis process itself.
All I can tell you is that in two cases my Electrolyzer melted and only the glass jar
survived. In both cases this occurred as a result of (1) too much heat radiated by the
engine through the air to the Electrolyzer, and (2) the electrolyte was too concentrated
or in other words too much Baking Soda. There is a situation called Thermal Runaway,
where an increase in temperature changes the conditions (in this case the rise in
electrical current) that causes a further increase in temperature - leading to meltdown.
You can prevent this from happening by following these precautions and procedures:
 Use ONLY DISTILLED WATER. Filtered water is NOT distilled water!
 Start with no more than ½ teaspoon of baking soda, and add ½ teaspoon at a
time, making sure that no excess heat is being generated even after an hour of
operation.
 Install the Electrolyzer away from engine heat. If this is not possible, block
engine heat as much as you can by placing a heat shield (e.g., bubble wrap
covered by aluminum foil) between the Electrolyzer and the engine. Leave at
least 1” of air space around the Electrolyzer.
 A mounting bracket can be easily fashioned from copper and/or galvanized

plumber’s strap. In many cases a small rubber pad and/or two bungee cords may
be adequate.
 Rarely there may be vehicles that do not have enough space in the engine
compartment to mount even a single Electrolyzer. A possible solution is to use
the area in front of the radiator. Fasten the device to the car’s frame or anything
other the radiator, belts or moving parts, and make sure that it does not
touch the radiator. I’ve seen experimenters using the passenger’s compartment
for installation but I do NOT recommend it.
VACUUM CONNECTION
As shown in the vacuum diagram below, vacuum lines are supplied from the engine to
various car systems, and you should use the vacuum line that gives the highest vacuum.
The purpose is to suck the HHO into a place such as the carburetor or the intake
manifold, where it can be automatically mixed with the existing fuel/air mixture.

Water4Gas
Electrolyzer
VACUUM CONNECTION – DUAL SUPPLY

Note: For some odd reason, several readers thought that by “dual supply” I meant one
output hose to the vacuum - and the other output to the fuel line... NO, NO, NO! Both
connections are to the air/vacuum connections of the engine. Never connect HHO into
the fuel lines!
The reason for the dual supply (dual HHO output) is that when the engine is idling, there
is a high vacuum pressure in the intake manifold. This pressure drops when you
accelerate or rev up the engine to higher RPM. At that moment, more vacuum is
available in the air intake for sucking up the HHO gas into the engine. It may save a bit
more fuel but I don’t find it critical, so it’s up to you if you want to use the dual supply.
Besides, it really depends on your driving habits. If you never rev up the engine very
high, the second output will be closed most (or all) of the time. Switching between
supply lines happens by itself and no control mechanism is necessary.
Refer to the Vacuum Diagram below. In this setup a second line is connected from the
Electrolyzer to the air intake of the engine right after the air filter – or even directly into
the air filter housing. Use a universal vacuum line T-Connector to make the connection.
To connect the second pipe to the air intake or air filter housing, use a brass fitting or
plastic barbed fitting to match your vacuum hose. Make sure no plastic particles or glue
fall into the engine.

CAUTION: DO NOT CONNECT TO THE BRAKES VACUUM LINE. This is usually a very
thick black hose that connects between the engine and the Brake Vacuum Booster
(usually a large drum on the firewall on the driver side). If you’re not absolutely sure,
ask a mechanic.
With the engine briefly on, you should be able to detect substantial vacuum pressure
coming from the line you are connecting to. If you want to know exactly what line is
best, and especially if you’re going to install in more than one engine, use the low-cost
vacuum gauge shown earlier in this chapter. It takes guesswork out of the way.

Connect the vacuum line from the Electrolyzer to a vacuum line that runs to the intake
manifold. Make the connection as close as possible to the intake manifold. If the vehicle
has a carburetor, make the connection at or below the base of the carburetor.
Frequently in older vehicles, there are spare ports available for this purpose.
The PCV valve line usually makes

a good connection for HHO.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation

valve, or PCV valve, is a one-way
valve that ensures continual
refreshment of the air inside a
gasoline internal combustion
engine’s crankcase.
Photo:
WikiPedia.org
Engines with EFI (Electronic Fuel

Injection) should also be
connected at or near the intake
manifold.
WARNING: DO NOT SHORTEN THE VACUUM HOSE between the engine intake and
the jar. Keep the hose at least 4 ft long. This length must be kept to enhance safety and
prevent damage to the device.
Note that the Universal Vacuum T-Connector is...well, universal. Its edges are usually
too small for the hose, and should be trimmed with a knife as shown below. This is
recommended because the small opening obstructs gas flow without any benefit. This is
not mandatory, yet it will help improve performance.
Cut at shown places for a ¼” hose. Cut

larger or smaller sections, according to
the hoses you’re using at each end.

ELECTRICAL SETUP
SEVERE WARNING
 Incorrect electrical installation may cause hazardous conditions. Especially
dangerous is to hook the Electrolyzer straight to the battery, or in any such way
that it will keep producing HHO while the engine is off (thus accumulating HHO
that might cause an explosion upon engine ignition).
 You must not allow HHO accumulation when the engine is off!!!
 More details below – read this chapter carefully before starting the
electrical installation.
I’ve seen the installation shown above and didn’t mind

the very unprofessional cardboard box. But I did mind
the switch (circled in the photo I’ve taken of his
installation) since it was the only method he was using
to switch off the power to this set of four Electrolyzers.
One unlucky night, this very experimenter forgot to
switch it off. In the morning when he started the
engine, he caused a very noisy explosion that broke his
intake manifold in half. That was a $500 lesson for him
to follow my instructions without shortcuts.

INSTALLATION TIPS
Installation Tip #1
If you are uncomfortable with (or lacking knowledge of) the electrical part of your
vehicle, then for your own safety, and for the safety of your passengers and the integrity
of your vehicle, you MUST refer this part of the installation to a professional. If you can’t
find a qualified Water4Gas installer near you, I can recommend two additional types of
professionals for this job:
1. Auto-sound installers (the guys that install stereo, CB radios, GPS, alarms, etc.)
They are normally knowledgeable with the vehicle’s electrical systems and its
relays, fuses and wiring, therefore they can easily calculate wiring thickness,
amperes, safety aspects, etc.
2. Any seasoned AUTO ELECTRICAL TECHNICIAN who’s familiar with your type of
vehicle. Show him this information and he should understand what to do.
In some vehicles the entire electrical system may be in reverse (RED wire to the body of
the car, or to the battery itself). Some cars, even with positive polarity, are just plain
complicated for no apparent reason. If it gets confusing, consult an auto electrician who
is familiar with your specific model. As mentioned above, this is a safety point – do not
continue and “hope for good” but consult a professional – or a better mechanic’s manual
such as Haynes Repair Manuals from www.haynes.com
Installation Tip #2
Always work with accurate FACTORY WIRING DIAGRAMS from reliable sources like
AutoZone, Haynes, Chilton.
Installation Tip #3
To protect the wiring from long-term damage, you can now put the newly installed wires
into what’s called “split flex tubing.” You can find it in all major hardware stores such as
Ace Hardware and Home depot, as well as AutoZone (comes under different names: wire
sleeve, convoluted tubing, split braided sleeving, etc). Try the hardware stores first,
because I found that they carry bigger and cheaper packages. Maybe it’s aimed at
constructors rather than auto mechanics, but the flex tubing I found there was of the
same type and lasted several years in my Toyota.
Installation Tip #4
How to use Quick Splice Connectors

The quick splice connectors are real time and effort savers for electrical connections. The
procedure below will teach you exactly how to use them:

1. Insert the wire that you are adding, the new wire
(red shown for example) into the rear slot of the
splice connector. Note that it will only fit from the
right hand side when the connector is positioned as
shown 
2. Insert the wire you wish to splice to (brown wire

shown for example) into the front slot of the
connector as shown below:
3. Using pliers press the metal connector onto the

wires. This will cut through the insulation of both
wires and make a firm electrical connection between
them, all in one action:
4. Close the folding cover of the connector by hand

as shown below:
5. The final connection should look like this  

Installation Tip #4 - Safety Relay

The Safety Relay is simply a switch (activated by 12 Volts rather than manually). It
turns the power from the positive post on the battery ‘on’ and ‘off.’ Its purpose is to
prevent Electrolyzer operation unless the engine is actually running. Three options are
described below.
The best type is a standard automotive relay that you can get from the auto parts store.
A single 20 Amp relay is necessary. For easier maintenance, it is best to get a matching
receptacle and install the relay as shown in the photo, in such a location that will allow
you to replace the relay if necessary.
Find a location along the wire where you can mount the Safety Relay to the vehicle’s
body or inner support brackets, away from engine heat.
 Safety Relay
 Safety Relay receptacle

(female plug) for easy service

SAFETY SWITCH – 3 OPTIONS

Option ❶ Gasoline Engines – activated by Vacuum Switch
The diagram below shows a safe electrical connection that
prevents Electrolyzer operation unless the engine is actually
running. The green numbers indicate the pin numbers of a
standard automotive relay, such as AutoZone’s universal
relay (part # MT0224). How it works:
• The 12 Volts power is supplied directly

from the battery
• A vacuum switch senses that the engine is ON,
• The vacuum switch activates a relay,
• The relay connects the 12 Volts to the Electrolyzer.
NOTE: This setup is good only if you have vacuum, which

means:
1. You are not on a Diesel, and
2. You have connected to the vacuum port of your engine (and not to the air
intake only).

Option ❷ Gasoline or Diesel – by Oil Pressure Switch

Similar to the above method, with the vacuum switch replaced
with an automotive OIL PRESSURE SWITCH. This type of switch
should only cost a few dollars. If you Google "oil pressure
switch" with your vehicle’s model, you will find them
cheaply. Several models available at AutoZone from $11 up.
However, such a switch should ONLY be connected to the
engine by an experienced mechanic, to prevent risk of losing oil
pressure. Once you have the pressure switch installed, you can
follow up and complete the electrical connection yourself, per the
diagram below:
This safety circuit performs very

well in my Volkswagen Jetta
turbo-Diesel (the photo shows
its installation).
Approximately 2 seconds after I

turn the engine off, the oil
pressure drops and HHO
production is shut off too. That’s
safe. When starting the engine
back on, HHO production starts
almost instantaneously.

Option ❸ Gasoline or Diesel – by Fuel Pump indication

Similar to the above, but instead of hooking up the relay to the
pressure switch, connect it to the fuel pump. It should be the
side that receives +12 volts only when the pump is on. If
this is not so, such as the case of a Jaguar and other
complex vehicles, consult your mechanic on choosing
the proper point of connection.
Once you find out how to connect to the Fuel Pump

Relay, that’s a better place that gives the same
indication. The car’s wiring diagram can guide you to locate
the proper relay and its connections.
The principle is simple but important: the relay should receive

+12 volts only when the FUEL pump is activated. If you’re not sure, as a mechanic.

ELECTROLYZER INSTALLATION – FINAL STEPS

SECURING THE DEVICE
The photo shows the final installation in my Toyota Corolla ‘99. Note the absence of a
bottom support – I left the jar hanging on the edge of the washer fluid reservoir. It
never fell down no matter the road/speed. The bungees are pretty tight but they still
allow for easy removal of the device without removing any of the bungees.
An alternative support that

looks neat: install a metal-mesh
pencil organizer from Office
Depot that costs only $3.99 and
makes for easy inspection and
maintenance. You need the
JUMBO Pencil Holder, Item #
169990, that measures roughly
4.7" x 6” which is perfect for a
mason jar.
Photo: www.officedepot.com

FINAL SETUP
• Fill the jar with DISTILLED WATER, leaving 1” of free space at the top. Add 1
teaspoon of dry catalyst (such as pure Baking Soda). Mix well, then close the jar
tightly by hand force.
• Adding 1 more teaspoon will generate much more HHO (hydrogen-oxygen
mixture) but may blow the fuse or cause overheating, in which case you should
replace it with a higher rating fuse (15-20 Amps works for me, see notes on fuse
selection below).
• THE JAR MAY GET HOT. Refer to the troubleshooting guide for proper tuning.
• THE JAR WON’T CRACK IF PROPERLY HANDLED - BUT LET IT COOL OFF
BEFORE ADDING COLD WATER OR ATTEMPTING ANY MAINTENANCE ACTION.
• Inspect the installation visually. Make sure all electrical connections are tight
(HAND FORCE on the wing nuts) and that the lid is screwed tight on the jar.
FUSE SELECTION
I found that in my single-jar setup a 15 Amps was useful for moderate production of
HHO although the Electrolyzer is measured to pull only 3 Amps in idling. I start with
1 teaspoon of Baking Soda for 1 quart of water; with 12 Volts it will draw about 3 Amp
in the Electrolyzer shown here, but this will vary significantly with electrode thickness
and length. For higher HHO production mix 1½ FLAT teaspoons of Baking Soda into
1 quart of water, and replace the fuse with a 20 Amps fuse (the device may draw around
4-5 Amps in idling).
Watch out for possible device overheating, especially in hot weather!!! If the
device overheats, lower the ratio of Baking Soda to water and refer to the
troubleshooting section.
Whatever you change, do it IN SMALL INCREMENTS and let the system

stabilize before attempting the next change.
ADJUSTMENT
Start with NO electricity, by taking out the fuse or leaving one of the terminals
disconnected (make sure it doesn’t touch metal parts of the car to prevent fuse
blowout).
First turn the “Bubbler Cap” fully CLOCKWISE (fully

closed).
Then turn it half-turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.

Turn the engine on and watch the bubbling action coming out of the lower end of the
thin tubing inside the device (here you see one of the advantages of having a strong
glass jar instead of metal or non clear plastic – total transparency and visibility!)
Gradually turn the Bubbler Cap and watch the bubbling action in the jar. Adjust the
valve until there is a small amount of bubbling action.
Turn off the engine.
Connect the electricity back on and make sure all electrical connections are tight (hand
force on the wingnuts).
Start the engine again and watch the electrolysis action between the spiral electrodes. A
bright colored gas (HHO!) will start forming and flow toward the top of the jar.
Within a short time (roughly 30-120 seconds), you may notice that the engine starts to
sound quite differently – smoother and quieter. Its RPM may be unstable for a couple of
minutes. This is normal – the HHO is starting to change the combustion cycle and
cancels the pinging – and the engine is now adjusting to the changes.
Some road experiments indicated that better economy may be achieved with the air
bubbling totally shut off. Bill Lang, the original developer of this Electrolyzer, offered his
bubbling techniques: tune ZERO BUBBLING in a Electrolyzer, and LOW BUBBLING in a
Vaporizer.
Do your tests, monitor the results and (voluntarily) report back your findings via the
website for the benefit of our community. The broader the experiment base, the more
certainty there will be on the best overall tuning.
Tuning, Enhancers, FUEL ADDITIVES, etc.

For some cars, the Electrolyzer is all that’s needed for significant fuel economy. I know
this from first hand experience. For other vehicles – especially stock cars 1995 and
newer – some enhancements are necessary. The second book has all the knowledge on
how to tune the system for maximal fuel economy.
“DO I USE THE VAPORIZER WITH AN ELECTROLYZER???”
No - these are two separate systems!!!

The Vaporizer is not intended to be installed as a “bubbler” for the Electrolyzer. For
proper Vaporizer installation, application and tuning refer to 0.

CHAPTER 13
INSTALLATION – DIESEL CAR
Follow safety precautions
provided in Chapter 17
SYSTEM OVERVIEW
Water4Gas
Electrolyzer
these images are two views of basically the same configuration. It comprises a
Water4Gas Electrolyzer or a Multi-Cell, with some means to PUSH the HHO out since
there is no vacuum as in gasoline. HHO goes into the air intake BEFORE the turbo:
Water4Gas
Electrolyzers
in series

HOW TO CREATE A VENTURI EFFECT?

Adding a “Venturi effect” is optional and its purpose is to create
better suction of HHO into the air stream.
“Venturi effect” (named after the Italian Physicist Giovanni Battista Venturi) is simply a
low pressure, or in other words SUCTION, created by airflow over an opening, usually
slanted, or a constricted section of a pipe. We want to create this suction because it will
help pull all the HHO out of the Water4Gas Electrolyzers.
Simply hook up the output of the Multi-Cell manifold – to the air tube IN A SHARP
FORWARD ANGLE (in the direction of the air flow), as shown below:
ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION TIPS

Follow the same guidelines and installation tips given for gasoline engines. They apply to
stationary engines as well; for example, a safety relay that stops HHO production
automatically when a generator engine stops running.

MECHANICAL INSTALLATION TIPS

Diesel installation is quite simple. The first problem is that the jars with plastic cap,
especially after some heating, lose their ability to seal properly, and it’s a bigger
problem in pressure than vacuum because pressure creates loss of HHO. The first thing
to do is to seal them hermitically, allowing the expanding HHO to push itself out of the
Electrolyzer and into the engine.
One way to do it is to use the metal cap provided with the mason jar. Only the rim is
used, while the round plate is replaced with a 5/16" thick Polypropylene plate, cut to fit
the jar. The hose fittings are threaded into the plate (glue is optional if threading is done
well). The photo shows metal hose fittings but you can use plastic fittings. Make sure to
seal the electrical terminals too, using rubber washers and/or glue: Plumbers Goop or
similar strong glue like Gorilla Glue, J-B Weld epoxy or Quiksteel epoxy (in Australia).
Electrolyzer configuration: Plug the safety check valve – or better yet don’t even install
one in if you’re building the Electrolyzer specifically for Diesel. Additionally, plug the
second HHO output if you have two on the Electrolyzer at hand – or don’t install a
second output if you’re building for Diesels.

Seal every other possible leak in the system:
- Check all the hoses for cracks or breakage,
- Check the lid(s) and each fitting for leaks.
REAL INSTALLATION EXAMPLE

The photo below depicts a single-Electrolyzer Water4Gas system that I helped install in
a Volkswagen Jetta TDI, turbo-Diesel 1.9 liter, very similar to my car:

PUMP
We used an aquarium pump from a local department
store. The smallest and cheapest you can find is probably
more than enough in strength, and is easy to replace if it
ever stops working (you’ll know by touching it and feeling
its vibration, or looking at the AIR bubbling action in the
transparent jar).
This pump costs $5-$7 and is supplied with 110 volts or

220 volts from a SMALL power inverter. The inverter we
installed was the type you plug into a cigarette lighter
plug to get appliance voltage, not USB. At a department
store we paid $15 for an inverter that can supply 70-100
Watts (the pump needs only 5 watts or so).
The output of the pump is connected using a ¼" vinyl to the “input” of the Electrolyzer.
We used an Electrolyzer built for gasoline, and an input port was created by removing
the cap of the adjustable bubbler and inserting the hose from the pump in there,
securing the connection with glue.
VALVE
See the blue check valve at the left bottom of the above photo? It’s the Pressure
Release Valve mentioned in the Electrolyzer building instructions, and may be provided
with some hydrogen generators that you purchase commercially. This valve is for
gasoline engines and must be capped (blocked).
In the Diesel, and especially when inducing air by force into the jar, if not blocked would
create an easy escape for the HHO. If you’re building the Electrolyzer from scratch,
simply don’t include it.
DRYER/FILTER UNIT
The owner of this car added an air dryer/filter on the hydrogen OUTPUT HOSE (shown
below) similar to the PCV Enhancer described in Chapter 11.

RESULTS
We installed this system with Jerry Young’s help, and the car owner reported good
mileage with this installation. His reported results were: on the highway at California
speed limit, his TDI Jetta used to get 36 MPG. Now with a single Water4Gas
Electrolyzer, his mileage for the same driving conditions went up to 55 MPG. That’s
52.8% increase in fuel economy.
After a while he tested again and reported similar results even without the pump,
indicating a well-sealed system.

CHAPTER 14
INSTALLATION – SEMI TRAILER
Overview with Photos ................................................................................ This page

System Components ..................................................................................Page 108
Step-By-Step Installation ...........................................................................Page 113
Post Installation ........................................................................................Page 125
The photos below are not the entire installation, just a preview. The first photo shows
Jerry Young’s system before he installed the new 6-pack Multi-Cell. At this time he has
been using this Water4Gas system for a year on this truck, and it performed well.
As shown in the next photos, the Input Manifold is supplied with CONTROLLED AIR
PRESSURE of about 1.5 PSI, via the white-blue plastic valve. This is done in order to
PUSH the hydrogen out of the Electrolyzers. That’s Young’s solution for the very low
vacuum provided by the turbo, and it seems to work very well for trucks:

The white/blue plastic valve shown at center of the next photo is the air pressure
regulator:

The next photo shows the NEW 6-PACK SYSTEM INSTALLED, with Jerry filling it up using
free drinking water (bottled water, not tap water). The system shown below is very
similar and you will see its entire installation procedure a bit later.

SYSTEM COMPONENTS
DRYER/FILTER UNIT
Either one of the dryer/filter units shown below are good. They cost a few dollars each
and their function is simply to remover water from the HHO going into the engine.
This type of air filter may be obtained from large hardware stores (check the tools
department) or air compressor stores.
ADAPTERS
The adapters shown below are brass barbed adapters to fit 3/8” tubing, but if your hoses
are not 3/8” then you should get adapters to match.

HOSES
Hoses to Carry Hydrogen and Oxygen
These are the hoses Jerry Young used in the installation shown here, but you may chose
different ones as long as they are of very good quality. These hoses have worked well in
Jerry’s trucks for over a year now. The hose shown below is a 3/8” (inner diameter)
braided hose by Watts, model SBVKG10 (the 10-ft pack’s manufacturer part # is
42142610). Find it at your local hardware store. Sold at Home Depot for $8.98, with
store part # 204667.

Hoses for Pressurized Air

The tubing shown below is the ¼” inner diameter Polyethylene (nylon) tubing from
Watts, model SPEB25 (manufacturer part # 42141225). Find it at Home Depot ($3.00,
Part # 701873) as well as Lowes ($3.47, Item # 443061) and other hardware stores.
It’s the type normally used for ice makers, water filters and other such plumbing.
PRESSURE
REGULATOR
This is a quick-connect inline
valve that you can get at Home
Depot and other hardware
stores. Its Watts model # is PL-
3011 and at Home Depot its
part # is 759472.

Costs $8.88 and is nothing special, just a simple plastic valve. Its purpose is to reduce
the amount of air pressure supplied by the truck to the system – neither HHO nor
liquid will be flowing through this valve. The type of connectors used on this valve is
called “push-in fittings” (quick connect) and is designed to fit the ¼ inch Polyethylene
Tubing shown above.
STAINLESS STEEL WIRE

I recommend the use of stainless steel grade 316L (the L is important and in my
experience it is should be 316L, not 316L-something-something which is for welding or
other high-temperature applications). Jerry Young has been using the wire shown below
with success. It is Grade 308 which is intended to be the filler metal when welding Grade
304 steel. Even though he uses drinking water, this steel holds on for over six months in
his installations.
MANIFOLDS
Below is a brief look at the Manifolds he has built. I’m not going to go into great detail
because you can figure it out or build them differently. The important principle is to
ensure free and EQUAL flow to all inputs and outputs.
The one in the next photo is Young’s “Input Manifold” (Input Air Manifold) and you’ll see
in the installation section how it connects. It’s made of a PVC pipe with two caps and 7
adapters to match the hoses being used. In the photo below, the circled nipple was too
thin so a small piece of tubing was added as an adaptor for the black hose:

The manifold shown below is the “Output Manifold” (Output HHO Manifold) that Jerry
Young made and is similar to the manifold shown above. The single output adapter
(pointed out in the photo) has to match the output hose and is preferably a 3/8" brass
barbed adapter.

In this photo you see a newer acrylic design of a

Universal Manifold that he used; we installed one
for the air input and another for HHO output. Each
Manifold has six 3/8" barbed adapters at the
bottom and a single one on top. I didn’t take
measurements because they aren’t critical as long
as it allows free flow and is completely leak-free.
Young’s Multi-Cell System

Shown below are the Polypropylene plates on top
of each Electrolyzer, replacing the thin metal top
normally provided with the jars (the rim stays).
Jerry used 5/16" thick Polypropylene and
threaded all the holes for the hose fittings. He says they stay strong and completely
sealed without glue (but you can add glue for extra strength), and also said that fittings
can be plastic without problems.

Another difference: Young did not immerse the input into the water (see “Configuration
A” below). In his system both Air Input and HHO Output only touch the air above the
water. He uses “Configuration B” shown below. Its advantage: if too much air is being
pushed in, it would not creating violent bubbling.
“Configuration A” – Air bubbles thru water “Configuration B” – Air blends with HHO
Which configuration gives better mileage to a semi-trailer’s Diesel engine? Since this is a
relatively small difference in the overall system, I suggest that you experiment it:
Step 1: Choose one of the configurations and keep it stably (5 tankfuls of driving) until
certain results have been achieved stably.
Step 2: Change to the other configuration, test again over 5 tankfuls and compare the
results.

STEP-BY-STEP INSTALLATION
The installation shown below is typical to a Freightliner semi-trailer truck (model 2001
shown). For trucks such as Peterbilt, Kenworth, Volvo and others, you may have to
adapt some of the options as needed.
STEP 1: CHECK FOR LEAKS

Check your Electrolyzers and Manifolds for possible leaks. Visual check is something you
can start with, but it definitely wouldn’t suffice. The best way to check for leaks is to use
the tool shown below; it’s actually a handheld vacuum pump called “Brake Bleeder and
Vacuum Pump Kit” that costs $26.99 at Harbor Freight Tools – Item # 69328 or 60770
at www.HarborFreight.com
Note that one of the major problems with Electrolyzers is a leaking lid. It may be closed
too loose OR too tight and leak in both cases. It may need a gasket. There’s an
Interactive Troubleshooter at www.Water4Gas.com/support/ that tells you how to deal
with vacuum leaks.
Use common sense but DO NOT SOLVE A LEAK BY GLUING THE LID TO THE JAR as this
would make it hard to inspect and maintain the system.

STEP 2: THE MOUNTING PLATFORM

In the Freightliner Young used the space behind the front bumper on the driver’s side.
There is plenty of room there. On a Peterbilt you may find it easier to locate this
assembly on the passenger side. Use regular hardware to build a supporting platform for
the 6-pack Multi-Cell assembly. The one you see below is made with angled aluminum
purchased from Home Depot, and two pre-drilled steel strips.
Bolt the platform to your truck. In the Freightliner, it was bolted to the inner fender and
to the lip on the inside of the bumper.
STEP 3: MOUNT THE JARS

Carefully open the lids of the six Electrolyzers. Fill each Electrolyzer with distilled water
to a level of about 1” from the top. Add catalyst to each Electrolyzer and mix until it
dissolves completely (recommended catalysts and ratios – see previous chapters).
Place the six Electrolyzers in a soft drink crate as shown in the next photo. Position the
assembly on the mounting platform and secure it with a strong bungee cord. Cushion
the jars with Styrofoam plates or sponge so they don’t rattle and bang into each other.
(These Electrolyzers are very durable since they are made of tampered glass, but we
should avoid violent vibration as much as possible.)

For your convenience and to prevent wiring mistakes, I recommend that you pre-wire
the electrical connections on a work bench in accordance with Chapter 8.
STEP 4: SYSTEM ELECTRICAL CONNECTION

Young used 12-gauge automotive wire, black and red, with an inline fuse holder located
at an easy-to-reach place. He uses a 10-amp fuse for the entire system, which tells me
that he’s using very little electrical energy to power it (I estimate 3-4 Amps).
For safe electrical installation refer to 0. At this stage LEAVE THE FUSE OUT.

STEP 5: PRESSURE SUPPLY FROM THE TRUCK

Locate the air lines that go up the firewall on the driver’s side. We used the yellow line
for the input air (markings may be different in other models).
These lines would be used simply because they are nearer. On a Peterbilt truck you may
choose to use the air line to the passenger seat (the pressure lines to the passenger
booster seat – located under the seat itself).
The yellow line shown below is used by one of the less critical systems (not brakes etc.)
and you simply tap into it. Cut the line and install a ¼” T as shown in the photo below.
Install the pressure regulator (plastic valve) nearby, and use the Polyethylene tubing to
connect it to the T on the pressure line tap. Leave enough slack of tubing, to
accommodate for vibrations. A total length of 12 inches is normally enough (in this
truck), see photo below:

Adapt the Polyethylene tubing from

the pressure regulator valve to the
vacuum line going down to the Input
Manifold, using two metal clamps to
prevent pressure leaks:

STEP 6: INPUT MANIFOLD

Connect the hose from the valve to one Manifold that will be used as the Input Manifold.
The Input Manifold will now be able to take the air pressure from the truck and
distribute it evenly to all jars. Install the Input Manifold near the jars.
Connect six pieces of standard vacuum hoses, about 2 feet each, to the manifold’s six
outputs. Connect each such output hose to the INPUT of a jar.
These photos show different views of the same thing; both manifolds are shown.

STEP 7: ROUTING HHO TO THE ENGINE
Connect six pieces of standard

vacuum hoses, about 1½ feet
each, to the Output Manifold.
Install it near the jars and connect

each of its inputs to the OUTPUT
of a jar.
The Output Manifold is now able to

collect the HHO from all jars and
has one output that needs to be
fed to the engine.
Connect the single output of the

Output Manifold to a braided 3/8"
hose and secure it with a clamp.
Start routing the hose upwards

next to the inter-cooler.

Run the hose from the Output

Manifold on top of the inter-cooler
as shown:
Now run the hose backwards

toward the air filter assembly.
IMPORTANT: Refer to the photo

below. The portion of the hose
shown below (running
horizontally along the center of
the photo) must be heat-
protected by a rubber-foil sheet,
due to the proximity to the turbo
charger and the alternator
located under this section:

Connect the hose to the inlet of the dryer/filter, and place it (unattached) at an easy-to-
reach location as shown:
Continue the hose from the dryer/filter outlet to the 6" intake hose before the turbo
(pointed out at the bottom of the next photo).
Install a 3/8" barbed fitting to connect the hose to. You can make the hole in the output
rim of the air filter box – MAKE SURE NO SHAVINGS FALL INTO THE TURBO!
It is better to take off the 6" hose off the engine and drill into that. Drill a hole in the flat
section of this hose.
Install the 3/8" barbed fitting using epoxy. Let it harden and reinstall the hose as shown
below:

STEP 8: FINAL INSPECTION

• DO NOT START THE SYSTEM YET.
• When both the electrical and mechanical installations are done, first perform a
visual check to see that all components are in place and properly installed.
• Install the fuse into the fuse holder.
• Close the Pressure Regulator (valve) to its OFF position.
• Now turn on the ignition key to IGNITION ON position.

• Inspect each of the Electrolyzers. You should see a milky substance forming
around the electrodes – that’s the HHO. This means they are properly generating
hydrogen and oxygen.
• If you do not see this, or anything else seems unexpected, turn off the engine
and correct your installation.
STEP 8: REGULATING THE AIR PRESSURE

• Start the engine, and wait at least 90 seconds for pressure to build up.
• Now adjust the air pressure: turn the inline regulator valve about ¼ of the way
open. This should produce a mild AIR bubbling in each Electrolyzer. If it produces
big bubbles then you have too much air. In Jerry’s experience only a little bit of
air is required. He said between 1.5 PSI and 2 PSI but you can do this
adjustment visually until you achieve mild bubbling in the jars.
Well done! The installation is finished.

For maintenance and mileage tips see Book 2.

CHAPTER 15
INSTALLATION – PCV ENHANCER
THIS DEVICE IS RECOMMENDED BUT OPTIONAL.
NECESSARY PARTS
All you need, other than the PCV Enhancer itself, is a good hose and hose clamps.
To connect the PCV Enhancer to the engine, use high quality vacuum hose. It’s not
extremely hot, but in the long run a better hose will prevent loss of vacuum. Consult
your auto parts store.
For optimum results with minimum maintenance, you need this hose to be:
1. Capable of withstanding the high temperature of PCV air flows (approximately

160° Fahrenheit, or 70° Celsius),
2. Inner diameter to fit the PCV line of your engine. Usually it’s 3/8” but may vary.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Warmly recommended but not mandatory: Clean the existing PCV valve with thinner, or
replace it with a new one.
Locate the PCV Valve. It connects the

crankcase to the intake manifold. If you
cannot find it consult your car’s
maintenance manual or ask a mechanic.
A free tool to help you locate the PCV:
visit www.AutoZone.com, move your
mouse over “Repair Help” and select
“Component Locations.”
This photo highlights the PCV in my

Toyota Corolla ‘99.
Under the hood, choose a small space where you will have access to the PCV Enhancer
for periodical cleaning. The best position would be below the level of the intake manifold

(to enable water to sink into the device after the engine has stopped, rather than
dripping back into the engine). Due to its plastic parts, it is also recommended to keep
the PCV Enhancer away from
engine heat as much as possible,
but no more than 2 feet away.
In the Toyota I chose a location at

the level of the PCV itself, with
easy access from the side of the
car, near the brake drum.
You can optionally add brackets

but it’s much easier to inspect and
clean without firm attachment to
the vehicle. I cut a plastic bottle
and placed it under the device, for
protecting it and also for collecting
any liquid dripping from it.
Disconnect the original hose

attached to the PCV Valve.
Make sure you understand where

the air flow is going in the system
(if not sure start the engine
shortly and check vacuum – the
intake manifold side has the
vacuum).
The filter housing of the PCV Enhancer is usually embossed or marked with “IN” and
“OUT” markings, for inlet and outlet, respectively. Connect its “OUT” side to the intake
manifold port for the PCV Valve, as shown in the picture below. Use 3/8” hose (unless
your system is different). You can use the original hose if it can reach the location of the
enhancer, but it is usually too short and needs extension.


These above photos may help you identify the right connections. If still confusing,
consult a mechanic – the connection will be simple once he shows you what goes where.
IMPORTANT: The hoses should not have any low spots that might collect water, because
this water will freeze in cold weather and block the PCV system. Any liquid that may
accumulate in the input or output hoses should be free to run into the PCV Enhancer
once the engine is shut off.
Inspect the installation visually.

Make sure all connections are
secured with metal clamps.
Make sure the filter bowl (the
transparent part in this case) is
HAND tight.
 Add a cap at the bottom

opening on the PCV Enhancer.
Closing the valve will not
actually close it because these
compressor filters were
designed for POSITIVE pressure
and will stay open under
vacuum. Chapter 10 gives more
details about this part.
Start the engine and check the system by observing the transparent filter bowl. Usually
you should see condensation – this is an indication that the system is working.
It is advisable to protect this device by placing it into a

plastic bowl or bottle, as shown here: 

CHAPTER 16
INSTALLATION – VAPORIZER
LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THIS DEVICE IS A SIMPLE STAND-ALONE ALTERNATIVE

TO AN ELECTROLYZER, USUALLY WITH LESSER RESULTS.
INSTALLING THE VAPORIZER

Fill the Water4Gas Vaporizer with TAP WATER to an inch from the top. For safety
reasons DO NOT add alcohol. Mount the Vaporizer in the engine compartment. It should
be mounted flat and level, and secured is such a manner as to assure that it wouldn’t
bounce around when the vehicle hits bumps etc. Position the device so that it is easy to
access and can be conveniently removed and filled with water, or cleaned, serviced or
inspected.
A mounting bracket can be easily fashioned from copper and/or galvanized plumber’s
strap. In other cases a small rubber pad and/or two bungee cords may be adequate.
Cool location is less of a problem since the device will stay cooler than in HHO mode.
The Vaporizer is operated by vacuum pressure from your car’s engine. As shown in the
vacuum diagram below, vacuum lines are supplied from the engine to various car
systems, and you
should use the vacuum
line that gets the
highest vacuum.

With the engine briefly on, you should be able to detect substantial vacuum pressure
coming from the line you are connecting to. If you want to know exactly what line is
best, and especially if you’re going to install in more than one engine, use the low-cost
vacuum gauge shown in 0. It takes guesswork out of the way.
Connect the vacuum line from the Vaporizer to a vacuum line that runs to the intake
manifold, such as the PCV line (same as Electrolyzer installation guidelines).
Make the connection as close as possible to the intake manifold. If the vehicle has a
carburetor, make the connection at or below the base of the carburetor. Frequently in
older vehicles, there are spare ports available for this purpose. The PCV valve line
usually makes a good connection. Engines with EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) should
also be connected at or near the intake manifold.
A universal vacuum line T-Connector is necessary as well as a length of vacuum hose to

make the connection. A wide variety of vacuum fittings are readily available at any auto
parts store (plastic fittings will do for this use). Thick vinyl hoses will also fit as long as
they don’t touch a hot spot in the engine. Additionally, it must be thick enough to
hold vacuum without crumbling. If it does, you have strong vacuum which is good –
use a standard vacuum hose instead.
INSTALLING A VAPORIZER IN DIESEL AND

TURBO-DIESEL ENGINES
Since there is no HHO to expand and push itself to the engine, you must provide
pressure from the vehicle (or an aquarium pump). Remove the UPPER PART (the
revolving cap) of the Bubbler Cap and insert the hose from the pump into the stationary
part of the bubbler.
If you’re building any Vaporizer specially for a Diesel installation, replace the Bubbler
Cap with a simple elbow or coupling.
Regulate (limit) its flow using a small plastic valve, to prevent too much bubbling. Not
that it’s dangerous, but it will use up the water too quickly and there may be more vapor
than is necessary for optimal combustion.
The diagram below illustrates a principal installation of a Vaporizer in a turbo-diesel

engine, using a small aquarium pump. You can eliminate the pump if you can hook up to
a readily available pressure source. Ask your mechanic where and how to safely tap
onto an available source of pressure.

ELECTROLYZER & VAPORIZER TOGETHER???
THE VAPORIZER IS NOT INTENDED TO BE INSTALLED IN SERIES AFTER THE

ELECTROLYZER. In other words, the Vaporizer is NOT a “bubbler” in
which HHO is bubbled through water. The Vaporizer is used as a
STAND-ALONE DEVICE to enhance fuel economy and reduce harmful
emissions. However, it is less effective than the Electrolyzer.
If you already have a jar Electrolyzer and you want to test it as

Vaporizer, simply use it without electricity. To build a proper
Vaporizer see Chapter 9.

FINAL SETUP & ADJUSTMENT

Fill the Vaporizer with ordinary TAP WATER. Optional Vaporizer Fluids – and their
potential effect on fuel economy – see in the “Mileage” Book. Leave 1” of free space at
the top. Start the engine and watch the bubbling action in the jar. Adjust the Bubbler
Cap (the rotary valve on the top of the jar) until there is a small amount of bubbling
action.
That’s it. Your Water4Gas “H2O system” is now ready to go!
Watch the level of water weekly and add water as needed. Depending on engine and
weather, in my experience one jar of water should be enough for 3000 miles (although
in some cars it dries up faster due to engine heat and/or stronger bubbling setting).
Unlike the Electrolyzer in which there are electrodes to cover with electrolyte, this unit
will still function with less than ¼ of its water capacity. However, for best results it is
recommended to refill when level goes below ½ jar.
HOW TO USE THE VAPORIZER FOR FUEL

ECONOMY
Vaporizer + Volo Flash Chip
Installing the Volo FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP has been reported to save fuel even without
HHO. For a simpler Water4Gas “H2O system” use a combination of a Vaporizer and this
electronic device. Reading Book 2 of this series will give you more understanding of each
function and how to tune them.
I consider this an important entry-level system due to its sheer simplicity. If you have
questions please ask me.
+
FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP
(see Book 2 for installation)

CHAPTER 17
SAFETY
PRECAUTIONS
NEVER STORE HHO!
Due to the presence of oxygen, HHO is unstable and not safe
to store. The oxygen is a great advantage for combustion, but
not for storage. Even at low concentration of oxygen, a mixture
of hydrogen and (a small percentage of) oxygen is too unstable to store safely. That’s
why we ONLY produce HHO on-demand with Water4Gas. We never store it and every
bit of HHO we produce is consumed immediately.
HHO IS NOT A TOY!

Never let anybody play with HHO “to see if it would explode.” HHO technology at large,
as well as Water4Gas devices, are very safe WHEN USED AS INSTRUCTED. It’s no
different than any other powerful technology of any kind whatsoever: electricity,
gasoline, etc. Would you let your children throw burning matches into your gas tank?
You would never do that! Yet your vehicle is considered safe WHEN USED PROPERLY.
MANUFACTURING & REPAIR SAFETY

WARNING: Strong glues and soldering irons create
toxic fumes. Work in a well ventilated area and
do not inhale these fumes! I use this low-cost
respiratory protection mask that I obtained from a
local welding supplies store. This is the 6200 half-
mask with a pair of 6001 cartridges (filters), made
by 3M™. You can get it online and it’s well worth
your health. If you find a different model, make
sure it can handle toxic fumes.
Work with protective gloves and goggles.
Acquire professional tools. Harbor Freight Tools

(visit www.harborfreight.com or phone 1-800-
423-2567) and hardware stores nowadays carry
professional tools at affordable prices.
REMEMBER: Always use the proper tool for the job!

INSTALLATION AND MAINTENANCE SAFETY

 SEVERE WARNING
Before attempting ANY maintenance on this system, turn the engine OFF and
make sure that all device(s) are DISCONNECTED from any power supply, by
turning the ignition key fully off AND taking out the system’s fuse. Do this also
when opening a device for inspection or for refilling its water – otherwise the
electrodes might short circuit to the car’s body or another system, possibly
causing damage or fire hazard.
 SEVERE WARNING
Incorrectly installing or incorrectly using Water4Gas technology may result in
serious damage or body injury. Read and follow the instructions and safety
precautions given throughout this book to stay safe.
 If you do not understand these instructions or do not like working on

vehicles/engines, have your mechanic do the work.
 Work outside, without smoking. Make sure the engine is not hot before touching
it or working on it.
 Wear goggles, gloves and long sleeves during installation and maintenance.
 Use professional tools.
 Use common sense and general safety procedures applicable to automotive

installations and maintenance.
 If you’re not sure, ask for help from a professional!
 Get familiar with every part of this book series. Study the relevant chapters
before attempting any manufacturing, installation or maintenance.
 Read “Auto Repair Safety Rules” by Deanna Sclar www.dummies.com/how-

to/content/auto-repair-for-dummies-cheat-sheet.html and watch “Top Safety
Tips for Auto Repair” by Patrick Gilmore http://autorepair.about.com/video/Top-
Safety-Tips-for-Auto-Repair.htm
CATALYSTS
Definitions: In electrolysis, the electrolyte is the liquid we use, which is a mixture of
distilled water and a catalyst – the dry chemical that activates the process.
WARNING! Some catalysts that may be offered to you could be toxic or hazardous. For
the systems described in this book I recommend that you use only Baking Soda (Sodium
Bicarbonate) or any of its SAFE ALTERNATIVES described below.

NEUTRALIZING THE ELECTROLYTE

Why you should neutralize the electrolyte before
disposing it
The used electrolyte (water with catalyst) may be environment-unfriendly and should be
neutralized before disposing. The main chemical that we’re concerned about is called
‘Hexavalant Chromium’ or Cr(VI), that may or may not be produced in significant
amounts by your system, depending on several factors such as catalyst type and the
metals you use. To be on the safe side, you can easily and cheaply neutralize it yourself
thus protecting your environment.
Home method to neutralize Cr(VI)

1. Dump the used electrolyte from your HHO Generator
into a bucket.
2. Add a cup of sugar and mix well.

3. Let it stay overnight. The sugar will convert the Cr(VI)
into the safe and stable ‘Trivalent Chromium’ Cr(III).
4. Then dispose into sewage.
For complete info and sources

see below in this chapter
This is supported by science:

Phil Berardelli, in his article “Sweet Solution for Chromium
Pollution,” reported in “ScienceNOW” magazine (http://sciencenow.sciencemag.org)
of 29 March 2007, that chemist Bryan Bilyeu of Xavier University of
Louisiana (XULA) has discovered that adding a FRUCTOSE solution to
waste-water and soil contaminated with Cr(VI), removes 94% of the
contaminate. GLUCOSE was found to remove 93% of the contaminate.
According to Berardelli, the sugar in these household substances

converts the chromium Cr(VI) into the naturally occurring AND MORE
STABLE Cr(III) [chromium-3 or “Trivalent chromium”] which is a vital
nutrient for our body’s health. The EPA’s website states: “Chromium
(III) is an essential element in humans, with a daily intake of 50
to 200 µg/d recommended for adults.”.
FRUCTOSE and GLUCOSE are abundant in: high-fructose corn syrup, corn
sugar, grape sugar, crystalline fructose, honey, and PURE cane sugar
(see photo).

BAKING SODA ALTERNATIVES

and ELECTROLYTE SAFETY
THE NEED – IN SOME COUNTRIES
The most popular catalyst is Baking Soda due to its non-toxic nature, availability, ease
of use and low cost. In many countries it’s a household commodity and can be found in
every grocery...but experimenters from Yemen and Nigeria surprised me when they
were unable to find Baking Soda anywhere in their entire country!
Come to find out, as we expand and reach more countries around the world, this strange
problem is shared by a growing number of experimenters. I speculate that it’s because
Baking Soda, when combined with vinegar, can create primitive (and very weak)
“bombs” – and some governments are afraid to give it to their citizens...
Maybe they should outlaw vinegar instead? ……(Joke!)
DO NOT USE:
Table salt; Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH also known as Caustic Soda
or Lye); Potassium Hydroxide (KOH); or any harsh chemical.
SAFE Alternatives to Baking Soda

 Sodium Citrate which is basically citric acid - a SAFE food ingredient used in ice
cream, cheese and wine. Possible sources: ice cream/beverage manufacturers, food
supplies, etc. You may find it under other names: Citrosodine, Tri-Sodium Citrate,
Citric Acid (PURE citric acid, without any sugar), or Tri-Sodium Salt.
 Washing Soda is a laundry detergent that may be found under the names Soda
Ash, Laundry Soda, Sal Soda, or Sodium Carbonate. Used as a non-toxic all-purpose
cleaner – try to locate it in the laundry section of your grocery store.
 Borax is also used for laundry and may be known as Sodium Borate, Sodium
Tetraborate, or Disodium Tetraborate. It is NOT boric acid.
WARNING! Although non-dangerous in general, Washing Soda and Borax might be toxic
if swallowed. KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN!

How to Handle and Dispose of Used Electrolyte?

CAUTION! Read these instructions completely before taking action.
NEUTRALIZE THE
ELECTROLYTE BEFORE
DISPOSING IT
Some people have panicked regarding
electrolysis because it MAY produce a
chemical called “hexavalent chromium”
symbolized as Cr(VI).
Important to know:
Cr(VI) is widely used in leather
tanning, wood preservation and in the
production of stainless steel, paints,
textile dyes, videotapes and other
products. It is also released when
melting chromium, contained in
welding fumes, as well as other by-
products of industry. In 1985, for
example, according to estimates from
WikiPedia.org 136,000,000 kilograms
(300,000,000 lb) of hexavalent
chromium were produced. You may
have several products in your home or
shop containing this chemical.
According to my research, it is not necessarily true that ELECTROLYSIS OF WATER

produces Cr(VI) in significant quantities, or even at all. It depends on the metals used in
the Electrolyzer.
Famous HHO researcher and publicist Spodie Odie of Ruskin, Florida told me that Cr(VI)
is part of the formula of lower grade stainless steel (like 302/304) – and can therefore
leach out during electrolysis; but if you used stainless steel of grade 316L, it would not
release Cr(VI) in electrolysis. Other sources verified that Stainless Steel 316L is indeed
much safer and would release negligible quantities of Cr(VI).
IMPORTANT IN EITHER CASE: Spodie also noted that if somebody would run a chemical
test he could find some chromium in the water, but that does not necessarily mean
that he has found hexavalent chromium in it! The basic “chromium test,” says Spodie,
only seeks chromium in general, and therefore it misses the point because not all
chromium is Cr(VI).

How bad is hexavalent chromium? The Occupational Safety & Health Administration
(OSHA, part of US Department of Labor and THE authority on workers safety and health)
says in their official website OSHA.gov that “Workers who breathe hexavalent chromium
compounds at their jobs for many years may be at increased risk of developing lung cancer.
Irritation or damage to the eyes and skin can occur if hexavalent chromium contacts these
organs in high concentrations or for a prolonged period of time.”
If you happen to pass by a tiny amount of hexavalent chromium once or twice a month
– is it the same as welding a 2500-mile pipeline and breathing it 8 hours a day in high
concentrations or for a prolonged period of time?
NEUTRALIZING CR(VI)
General
Despite the above, hexavalent chromium IS toxic and we need to treat it as such,
assuming that we might be producing it by any chance, even in negligible quantities.
Low-Cost Chemicals to neutralize Cr(VI)

In a 2005 study supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China,
researchers from the Department of Environmental Engineering in Zhejiang University
were successful in eliminating 100% of Hexavalent Chromium, using a common mild
oxidizer called Potassium Dichromate (used in many labs and industries). The complete
research paper, titled "Removal of hexavalent chromium from aqueous solution by iron
nanoparticles", can be found and printed at www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1390446/
It’s in English so you don’t have to read Chinese. The graphs will print small – click each
one to open a larger graph.
Additionally, US Patent number 5,304,710 explains how to neutralize hexavalent

chromium using substances such as Ferrous Sulfate and Calcium Hydroxide:
https://www.google.com/patents/US5304710
Lab-grade Ferrous Sulfate can be purchased cheaply from:

The Science Shop®
1043 Di Giulio Avenue,
Santa Clara, CA 95050
Store Hours: Monday-Friday, 9:00am to 5:30pm PST
Phone 1-800-282-3248

Lab-grade Calcium Hydroxide can purchased cheaply from www.hvchemical.com

Hi-Valley Chemical
Mail: P.O. Box 69, Centerville, UT 84014
Physical store: 1134 West 850 North, Centerville, UT 84014
Store Hours: Monday Thru Friday 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. MST
Phones: 801-295-9591, 1-855-233-9591 or 1-855-234-9591
Home Solutions to Neutralize Cr(VI)

Water4Gas experimenter James Hutchinson of Talladega, Alabama, suggested his
method of Cr(VI) neutralization:
“Before emptying the cell put 2 table spoons of sucrose {TABLE

SUGAR} in the electrolyte. Run for a couple of hours then drain and
dispose as usual. The sucrose changes the chromium-6 to chromium-3
that is not hazardous.”
Is this supported by science? Evidently so!
Phil Berardelli, in his article “Sweet Solution for Chromium Pollution,” reported in
“ScienceNOW” (http://sciencenow.sciencemag.org) of 29 March 2007, that chemist
Bryan Bilyeu of Xavier University of Louisiana (XULA) has discovered that adding a
FRUCTOSE solution to waste-water and soil contaminated with Cr(VI), removes 94% of
the contaminate. GLUCOSE has also been researched and was found to remove 93% of
the contaminate.
According to Berardelli’s article, the sugar in these household materials converts the
toxic chromium Cr(VI) into the naturally occurring AND MORE STABLE Cr(III)
[chromium-3 or “Trivalent chromium”] which is a vital nutrient for our body’s health.
FRUCTOSE and GLUCOSE are abundant in:
• High-fructose corn syrup,

• Corn sugar,
• Grape sugar,
• Crystalline fructose,
• Honey, etc.
ALSO: USE BETTER METALS!

Make the extra effort to get and use only rolls of 316L wire for your Water4Gas
projects. MAKE SURE IT IS TRUE 316L from a trustworthy source (see parts list)
because it will last longer and create less waste materials.

CHAPTER 18 GLOSSARY
Unit converter: www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/
AC: Alternating current. Electrical energy (electrical current, voltage) that alternates
cyclically between positive and negative in polarity.
Ampere (amp): A measure for electrical flow. How many electrical particles flowing in a
conductor (wire, resistor, etc) per unit of time.
Anode: The positive-charged electrode (wire or plate) in an Electrolyzer (HHO

Generator) or battery. The electrode that gets the positive voltage. In an Electrolyzer,
this is where the oxygen is being produced.
Atomize: Converting liquid or substance into a very fine mist.
BG: Brown’s Gas, see definition.
Bio fuel or Biofuel: Environment friendly fuel made from ‘biomass’ – biological sources
such as algae, corn or wood. Biofuel can be liquid, gas or solid.
Blow-by (gas): Gases that skip past the piston rings in an engine; normally routed
back into the intake via the PCV valve.
Brown’s Gas: Hydrogen and oxygen made from water. The product of the Electrolyzer
(HHO Generator). Named after Prof. Yull Brown (see definition) but also goes by many
other names: Rhode’s Gas, named after it earlier researcher, Dr. William A. Rhodes; also
called HHO (Hydrogen-Hydrogen-Oxygen), oxy-hydrogen, watergas or water gas,
Waterfuel, etc. In Korea it’s called Brown Gas. In China it’s either HHO, Brown Gas or
Brown’s Gas.
Brown’s Gas is great not only as supplemental fuel for engines, but also good for cutting
hard metal, soldering, brazing (joining metals at high temperatures), glass works,
neutralizing radioactive waste, as well as welding metal with less expense and more
safety (compared with acetylene welding).
When separating water into its Brown’s Gas state, each Gallon of water expands into
gigantic proportions – 1839 Gallons of highly combustible gas! To be more precise,
1234.44 Gallons of hydrogen and 604.69 Gallons of oxygen can be obtained from each
Gallon of water! When ignited (by spark, flame or compression), Brown’s Gas implodes.
An implosion of that amount would result is the release of 1859 parts of vacuum energy
(imagine the energy released by combusting 1859 gallons of highly inflammable gas)
PLUS one part reverted back to 1 gallon of water. In other words, 99.95% of Brown’s
Gas turns into energy upon ignition, with the by-product being water without smoke.

Catalyst: A material used to induce or enhance the chemical reaction between other
materials without itself being changed or consumed in the process. In the context of this
book, the catalyst is the dry material such as Baking Soda that we add to distilled water
in order to induce the electrolysis process. The mixture of catalyst and water is defined
as Electrolyte.
Cathode: The negative-charged electrode (wire, plate) in an Electrolyzer (HHO

Generator) or battery. The electrode that gets the negative voltage. In an Electrolyzer
this is where the hydrogen is being produced.
Cell (also see HHO Generator): One unit in an electrolysis system, as in ‘Multi-Cell.’
Check Valve: A device that allows flow of gas or liquid in one direction only, usually
through a hose or piping system. It closes automatically when the flow stops or is
reversed.
CO2: Carbon Dioxide (gas). One of the worst emission gases – but also one of the
easiest to reduce or completely eliminate with Water4Gas technology.
Combustion Enhancement Interface Technology (CEIT): Coined by George

Wiseman to define techniques to make the ECU recognize the added gases and adapt
the air-fuel ratio accordingly. These techniques are detailed in Book 2 of this series.
Current: In electricity, it is the movement of electrons through a conductor. Measured

in Amperes. If for instance the conductor is copper then electrons are those particles of
the copper atoms that leave their place and pass between adjacent copper atoms.
DC: Direct current. Electrical energy (electrical current, voltage) which does not
alternate in polarity, in other words it keeps its positive and negative; and is also
somewhat “stable,” in other words it doesn’t pulse. Even if it changes all the time, it
could still be called DC if it has those characteristics.
Diesel: A type of engine named after its inventor, Rudolf Christian Karl Diesel (1858–
1913). Since the word originated as a person’s name, it should be capitalized. Diesel
engines use thin oil fuel rather than gasoline fuel. Many consider it to be the far superior
type of internal combustion engine.
Distilled water: Water that has its contaminants, acids and minerals such as salt,
completely removed. Rain water and filtered water are not distilled water!!!
DIY: Do It Yourself.
ECU: ‘Engine Control Unit’ or ‘Electronic Control Unit.’ Sometimes called ‘Powertrain
Control Module’ (PCM). Your car’s computer. When a vehicle has several computers, this
is the ENGINE’S computer. It’s the heart of the engine management system in a modern
vehicle, collecting many inputs from sensors and switches around the vehicle and
controlling all functions of the engine such as fuel injection and heat management.

Efficiency: The ratio of total output power to input power expressed as a percentage.
A numerical expression of the ratio between waste and actual work done. For example,
a low-efficiency car engine is one that uses most of its incoming fuel to produce heat,
noise and vibration, rather than forward motion.
EGR: Exhaust Gas Recirculation; a system used in some engines to reduce harmful
emissions.
EFI: Electronic Fuel Injection. The modern science of wasting fuel (due to poor
atomization, see definition).
EFIE: Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer; a device invented by

George Wiseman and further developed by Mike Kehrli to correct
the air-fuel ratio programmed into an ECU in order to
accommodate for HHO. It is an essential device for CEIT (see
definition). The popular EFIE types can be found at
http://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/
Electrode: A conductor (such as metal wire or plate) that dips into an electrolyte and
allows the current (electrons) to flow to and from the electrolyte. We have 2 electrodes
in each Electrolyzer: ‘Anode’ gets positive voltage and ‘Cathode’ gets negative voltage.
Electrolysis: When a direct current is passed through a liquid that contains ions (an
electrolyte), chemical changes occur at the two electrodes; usually a separation of
oxygen from hydrogen or other substances it is chemically bonded with. In our case the
process of splitting water into hydrogen and oxygen.
Electrolyte: A liquid solution of catalyst (the dry powder – see definition) in water in
an Electrolyzer (HHO Generator). Some users and even literature confuse between
catalyst and electrolyte. The catalyst in our case would be the chemical (such as
Baking Soda) and the electrolyte would be the solution, the mixture of that chemical
with distilled water.
Electrolyzer: HHO Generator.

A device that splits chemical
bonds by using electric current.
Ours is one type of Electrolyzer,
used for splitting water into
hydrogen and oxygen thus
producing Brown’s Gas or HHO
(other electrolyzer types are
used in other technologies such
as metallurgy and plating).
Common misnomers for THIS
type are ‘hydrogen generator’ and ‘fuel cell.’ Get high quality
Electrolyzes and DIY kits from www.Water4Gas.com

Emissions: For most exhaust gases, the simple yard stick is this: If it stinks – it’s
emissions – harmful emissions! Some emissions are “odorless” but that’s a
misleading concept because the body senses it one way or another. Yes, we have
become somewhat numb to hostile emissions. If you ever smoked regularly and then
you quit, you know how you become sensitive to the formerly “odorless” nicotine!
Government-permissible emission levels are way too high for our health – because all
harmful emissions are hostile to all life and should be objected! However, not all
emissions are harmful; for example, the use of HHO in an engine, burner or welding
machine creates emission of water vapor and extra oxygen. Even if HHO is accidentally
emitted into the environment without burning, it would revert back to harmless water.
Energy: The capacity to do mechanical work (such as motion) or electrical work (such
as light or sound).
Flash Chip: (also see ‘FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™’) An electronic device that adjusts the
ECU to accommodate for the addition of HHO. Should be ordered by vehicle model from
http://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/
Free Energy: Energy you don’t have to pay anybody for. It’s a common agreement
between conventional scientists and “energy experts” that Free Energy is physically
impossible. They are right from their NARROW view of closed systems – however that
classroom viewpoint is flawed for two reasons: (1) an engineer can understand that in
REAL NATURE there aren’t any closed systems, therefore Free Energy can be collected
from other systems in the environment (e.g., sailboat, Earth Battery); and (2) a little
child can understand that after a paid-for apparatus or method, however expensive,
has covered its costs in cash and labor, it starts bringing you energy or extra energy
you don’t have to pay for, thus at the end of the day you’re getting Free Energy.
All “Free Energy” methods and devices are based on this same basic principle – of
becoming somewhat more efficient in extracting energy out of natural resources. Every
rooftop in Israel has solar systems, invented in the early 1950’s by Dr. Zvi Tavor and
popularized shortly after. We pay for a solar system and from that moment onward the
sun gives us no-tax energy; at first it’s not free but from the moment it finished paying
for itself in electricity savings, it starts giving us truly free energy for years and years.
Get it? Another example is Water4Gas technology – Free Energy comes simply and
directly from the REDUCTION OF WASTE in those poorly-engineered engines that auto
makers have provided us with. Since we use low-cost methods, any energy or energy
savings derived CHEAPLY from water is considered “free” from the economical point of
view. If you have been conditioned to believe that Free Energy is not possible, just shift
your point of view and you’ll see many instances and opportunities of Free Energy.
Fuel: Any substance (liquid, solid or gas) that releases its stored heat energy and turns
it into actual heat and/or motion energy, when treated in a certain way such as by
burning or by combustion in an engine. When fossil fuel is burned it is destroyed and
leaves us with problematic pollutants. From the aspect of harmful by-products,
Waterfuel is different because when it burns it reverts back to water vapor and oxygen
that feeds back into the atmosphere.

Fuel cell: A device that produces electricity by using fuel (such as hydrogen) and a
chemical that reacts with that fuel at two electrical terminals, thus producing electric
energy that can be used to drive a car or do other useful work. Calling an HHO
Generator “fuel cell” is obviously a misnomer – an HHO Generator inputs electricity and
(in our use) outputs hydrogen, while a fuel cell (per definition) takes in hydrogen and
out comes electricity! Those are totally separate technologies. However, the HHO
Generator can rightfully be called ‘Water Fuel Cell’ or WFC for short. Various ‘Waterfuel
cells’ may be obtained from www.Water4Gas.com
It is noteworthy, though, that the use of ‘fuel cell’ to denote ‘HHO Generator’ has snuck
into the English language via official Patents that have used the term in that manner.
FE (Fuel Efficiency or Fuel Economy): Defined by the amount of work (how much
motion, in the case of cars, or how many hours of operation for a lawnmower or
stationary generator) can be obtained for the amount of fuel we put in. Commonly called
Fuel Economy, mileage or kilometrage, it is measured by Miles Per Gallon (MPG) or
Kilometers Per Litre (KPL).
FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™: A popular CEIT device that uses electronics cleverly to
adjust the ECU to recognize HHO and work with it rather than against it. Order by
vehicle type and model: http://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/
Generator: A device that generates some sort of mechanical or electrical energy (what
Americans call ‘Genset’) or generates a substance, as in ‘hydrogen generator’. When
mentioned in Water4Gas literature (as a word in itself, not in ‘HHO Generator’) we refer
to stationary engines that are used to convert liquid fuel to other types of energy,
usually electricity.
GPH: Gallons Per Hour.
HHO: Hydrogen+Hydrogen+Oxygen with the basic

structure shown. The product of splitting water (H2O)
into its components; being gaseous but not steam, it’s
a substance that can only be described as “water in the
forth state.” Also named Brown’s Gas (see definition),
Rhode’s Gas, OxyHydrogen or oxy-hydrogen, watergas
or water gas, or Waterfuel, to mention a few.
HHO Generator: Electrolyzer (see definition) or

Waterfuel Cell (WFC). A device that splits water into
hydrogen and oxygen thus producing Brown’s Gas or
HHO. Common misnomers are ‘hydrogen generator’ and ‘fuel cell.’ Order high quality
HHO Generators from www.Water4Gas.com
Hydrogen: The lightest and most abundant element. A gaseous diatomic element (in
simple words: gas that always has particles in pairs). This simple atom consists of one
proton and one electron. HHO is not hydrogen; HHO is more potent, more economical,
more environment-friendly and much safer than hydrogen when generated and used
properly.

ICE: Internal Combustion Engine. The most common type of engine for motorized
transportation, electricity generators and lawn mowers for the past 200 years.
Knocking: Also called ‘pinging’ – the banging noise in the engine, caused by improper
combustion. Can be reduced or eliminated by adding HHO.
Lean (mixture): Less fuel and more air in the air/fuel mixture. In accordance with
common wisdom of automakers, the mixture must be 14.7 parts air to 1 part gasoline.
But with supplemental HHO/hydrogen it can be significantly leaner, as verified by NASA
experiments in the early 1970’s and others. Also see ‘Stoichiometric’ definition.
MAF (sensor in the engine): Mass Air Flow.

A common sensor that exist in many but not all
engines. This sensor provides ONE of several inputs
the ECU uses to calculate the amount of fuel to be
injected into the engine.
MAP (sensor in the engine): Manifold Air Pressure

(sensor). It’s not a Water4Gas device but part of
the engine that comes with the car! However, this
sensor is not included in every modern engine.
Where included, it provides ONE of several inputs
the ECU uses to calculate the amount of fuel to be
injected into the engine.
MAP Sensor Enhancer, or MAP/MAF Sensor

Enhancer: An electronic device that helps the ECU
adapt the air/fuel ratio to the added HHO. Available
at http://water4gas.com/electronic-enhancers/
Map: (Notice the capitalization different from MAP). A detailed set of data stored in the
ECU that “maps” or in other words described the exact relationship between the various
values of engine behavior (such as fuel injection for each possible engine load).
Mixture: We use this term to describe the mixture of air and fuel, in either a
carburetor or fuel injection system of an ICE. Usage: ‘lean mixture’ means ‘high ratio of
air to fuel’ (lots of air, little fuel) vs. ‘rich mixture’ (lots of fuel, less air).
Molecule: Compound of two or more atoms, the smallest independent unit of chemical
compounds.
MPG: Miles Per Gallon. The common expression of fuel economy in North America, the
higher the better. In the metric system it would be expressed in Kilometers Per Liter
(KPL) and in this case, the lower the better. Some use Miles Per Liter, which gets really
confusing for everybody else. Use these simple conversions:
• If you have MPG and you want KPL - divide by 2.839 (so 1 MPG = 0.35 KPL)
• If you have Miles Per Liter and you want KPL - multiply by 1.601
• If you have MPG and you want Miles Per Liter - divide by 4.545

NOx (Nitrogen Oxide, NOx): Gases consisting of one molecule of nitrogen and varying
numbers of oxygen molecules. Nitrogen oxides are produced in the emissions of vehicle
exhausts and from power stations. In the atmosphere, nitrogen oxides can contribute to
the formation of photochemical ozone (smog), can impair visibility, and have health
consequences; they are considered pollutants.
O2: Oxygen. The ‘O’ obviously stands for Oxygen, while the added ‘2’ means that’s it
usually di-atomic, meaning that in the atmosphere the oxygen atoms pair up.
On-Board Diagnostics (OBD): A generic term referring to a vehicle’s self-diagnostic

and reporting capability. OBD systems give the vehicle owner and repair technician
access to information about vehicle subsystems. We refer to it as a generic term for the
entire “program” running the vehicle, including its usage of energy. There have been
various versions throughout the years. OBD-I is commonly found in pre-1996 vehicles
and the more advanced (and more pervasive) system OBD-2 refers to models 1996 and
newer. In some newer models OBD-2 is replaced or supplemented with what’s called
CAN (Controller Area Network) where on-board devices can communicate with each
other without going via the ECU.
Oz or Ounce: An imperial (non-metric) measuring unit. The same word is used both for
volume and for mass (but it’s not the same unit!!!) When you use a unit converter
(such as http://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/) to convert ounces to grams or
liters, be sure to use the proper setting for your calculations – mass (weight) or volume.
Oxygen: A non-metallic gaseous element that makes up about 20% of the atmosphere
(20.95% by volume, 23.2% by weight). The sign O2 means a bond of 2 oxygen atoms.
Oxygen sensor or O2 sensor: An electronic device that measures the proportion of

oxygen (O2) in the gas or liquid being analyzed. Used in science labs. In modern vehicles
it is a small sensor inserted into the exhaust system to measure the concentration of
oxygen remaining in the exhaust gas, in order to allow the ECU to control the efficiency
of the combustion process in the engine. A “side effect” of oxygen sensors is that they
can disrupt ANY fuel-saving technique that creates a lean fuel-air mixture. If the engine
burns “too lean” due to any modifications (such as adding oxygen from HHO or any
other), the sensor would detect the mixture as being too lean, and the ECU would then
adjust the injector pulse duration to keep the mixture “stoichiometric” (see definition).
Paradigm: Usually defined as model, ideal, mold, form, example, pattern; but in other
words it could be defined as ‘school of thought.’
PCV: Positive Crankcase Ventilation, a system using a PCV valve to evacuate ‘blow-by
gases’ and moisture from the crankcase of an internal combustion engine. Well, that’s
the official definition. In fact, blow-by gases are a whole lot of junk: burnt and un-burnt
fuel and oil escaping from the cylinder, past the piston rings and piston during a piston’s
power stroke (much more if you have worn-out rings or cracked pistons), and into the
crankcase. These by-products of combustion form acid and sludge in the crankcase and
cause smoke and oil deterioration. Naturally they damage mileage when the PCV system
re-circulates this junk back into the intake manifold – the breathing part of the engine.

The air entering the engine should NOT have sludge in it! Engines need clean air in order
to work properly – and this is where the PCV Enhancer (see definition) comes handy.
PCV Enhancer: A simple low-cost, low maintenance device to filter out junk and
moisture circulating through the PCV system of an engine. May enhance fuel economy as
well as maintenance economy of an engine in a cost-effective way. Can be easily made
per instructions in this book.
PCV Valve: Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve, a one-way valve that ensures
continual re-circulates junk from a gasoline engine’s crankcase. See PCV definition.
Ping or pinging: Also called ‘knocking’ – the banging noise in the engine, caused by
improper combustion. Can be reduced or eliminated by adding HHO.
Rich (mixture): More fuel and less air in the air/fuel mixture. In accordance with
common wisdom of automakers, the mixture should be ideal at 14.7 parts air to 1 part
liquid fuel. But that’s too rich – with supplemental HHO it should be significantly leaner!
Also see ‘Stoichiometric’ definition.
ScanGauge-e: A newer scanner (see definition) that provides you with real-time
information about your vehicle’s fuel economy through an intuitive graphic display.
Scanner: An electronic device, usually hand-held, commonly used by auto mechanics to

read and reset the ECU error codes.
Stoichiometric: One of those “big words” that fly over your head. You may have seen it
said about air-fuel ratio, and automotive experts always say the Stoichiometric value
is 14.7-to-1 for air-gasoline mixture or 14.6-to-1 for air-diesel fuel mixture. These
numbers sound very finite, don’t they? I mean, not a wink in any direction, no range,
nothing. A finite number. The English dictionary says Stoichiometric means “having its
component elements present in the exact proportions indicated by its formula.”
I haven’t used this word in this publication. I never do. And that’s because I think it’s a
pompous make-believe term that was made to impress upon you that air-fuel ratios are
very calculated, very scientific and absolutely finite. They’re not. NASA published as
early as 1974 that this ratio can be extended (more air, less fuel) by adding small
amounts of hydrogen to the air. I forces my Toyota engine to go much higher than 14.7
(maybe 20-25) and many others have done the same. Official numbers are arbitrary, to
say it gently. In more harsh words, I strongly believe the term Stoichiometric is a hoax
– or gross error at the very least – when referred to ICE air-fuel mixtures. Common
knowledge has it that, depending on engine type, altitude and other environmental
conditions, the mixture can be as lean as 65:1.
There’s also growing evidence that the FUEL SAVER FLASH CHIP™ (see definition) and
other electronic enhancers that you can obtain from http://water4gas.com/electronic-
enhancers/ can boost fuel economy by leaning the “stoichiometric” values of air-fuel
mixture – even without Waterfuel (their stand-along effect is mild, but may provide
measurable gains).
VAC: Volts Alternating Current.

Vaporization: The physical change of going from solid or liquid into a gaseous state.
VDC: Volts Direct Current.
Voltage: Measure of electrical tension or “pressure.” The measurement unit is Volt,

named after the Italian physicist Count Alessandro Giuseppe Antonio Anastasio Volta
(1745–1827).
Voltage offset: In the context of this book series, voltage added to the output signal of
the oxygen sensor. The combined signal (with the offset) is fed back to the ECU.
Waterfuel: We know of many methods of using water/vapor directly to enhance fuel

combustion. The term Waterfuel in general refers to any method of producing energy (or
welding/cutting/cooking gas) from water, and it can be in the form or liquid, gas, spray
(mist) and other forms. In this book we focus on Waterfuel that has become known
under many names such as HHO (Hydrogen-Hydrogen-Oxygen) or Brown's Gas, in other
words liquid water broken into its gas ingredients. Also called Oxy-hydrogen, hydroxy,
and quite a few other names.
Watt-hour: Unit of work. A simple multiplication of the number of Watts (which

expresses how many electrons flow in a given unit of time) by the number of hours that
this number of Watts is applied. Or, in the case of a battery, how many hours can the
battery provide those Watts before it’s depleted.
Watt(s): A measurement unit of electrical power; not potential power (voltage) but
actual work done. Expresses how many electrons flow in a given unit of time. To find the
“wattage” or in simpler words electrical Power, multiply Volts by Amps. Named after
Scottish engineer and inventor James Watt (1736-1819).
WFC or Waterfuel Cell: Common

name for HHO Generator or
(Waterfuel) Electrolyzer 
Get yours at Water4gas.com
Yull Brown: Professor Yull Brown

(1922-1998) has become famous
for researching, experimenting and
patenting his knowledge on what
we now call Brown’s Gas.
Born in Bulgaria as Ilya Velbov. Trained as electrical engineer,

moved to Australia in 1958 and worked as a laboratory technician.
Later in 1973-1974 he filed for his first electrolysis patents in
Australia. Yull Brown spent many years demonstrating the viability of
his technology and convincing others of its commercial value: how to
use Brown’s Gas for welding, how to reduce nuclear and toxic waste
to harmless carbon, how to fuel a vehicle, etc. IMPORTANT NOTE: Brown’s work does
not stand alone as it follows the footsteps and Patents of William A. Rhodes in the early
1960’s and others before him.

CHAPTER 19 RECOMMENDED DVD

Want to make a PRACTICAL Waterfuel project?
Want an EASY way to teach it to your students?
With this DVD set you will be able to sit in the

comfort of your living room and ACTUALLY SEE
Ozzie Freedom as he shows you every little
detail.
The set includes 7 full-length DVDs, each with 80-

90 minutes each – thus providing you with
approximately 600 minutes jam-packed with clear
visual information and how-to's. There are
also 3 extra CDs (full part lists,
troubleshooter and bonus
plans) that make a total of
10 discs.
 Discover the
simple principles on how to
Perfect for DIY make combustible gas from
water safely and inexpensively.
No big science - just sheer simplicity!
 How to build a simple, inexpensive Water4Gas system.
 Easy to follow instructions with diagrams and part lists.
 You will be able to FOLLOW OZZIE'S HANDS AND TOOLS as he builds every part of
the simple system right before your eyes.
 Every little part is shown and specified.
 You will learn how to install and operate your system.
 Learn how to maintain and troubleshoot your system.
 Learn the history of the Water4Gas technology – as well as new exciting applications
that you can do, such as healthy drinking water.
 You will learn our special techniques to MAXIMIZE YOUR FUEL ECONOMY.
 How to fine-tune several unique enhancers for best efficiency. You will be able to MAKE
and FINE TUNE these enhancers.
 Revolutionary fuel additives you can make at home.
 Driving techniques, vehicle maintenance, and much more.
 Everything you need to save money using Water4Gas.
 The valuable knowledge and insight from these DVD's will give you an opportunity to get
involved in the Water4Gas Global Movement.
Are you thinking of Water4Gas as a possible business opportunity? In this DVD Set you will get
the information you need to start a business for yourself as a manufacturer, vendor or installer. If
you’re training students or employees, just let them watch!
Teaching classes? This is an excellent tool to teach your students without sweat – just turn on
the projector or monitor and let your students learn from the most practical DVD in the field of
Free Energy. Showing this DVD set in public – any size public – will not violate our copyrights so
go ahead and help the world!
Get it from: http://water4gas.com/category/book-dvd/

CHAPTER 21 THE SCIENCE BOOK

The Green Science of Waterfuel:
Free Energy Secrets “THEY”
Don’t Want You to Know
Is Wat e r fu el a h oa x o r
s ci en ti fi c fa ct ? I s it n e w o r old ? A n d wh o
ar e " T H E Y" th at d on 't wa n t y ou t o k n o w ab ou t Wat e r fu el ?
Use this book to educate others with well-documented scientific truth rather than
rumors. This is an eye-opener for anyone who has ever had doubts whether Waterfuel
was for real. This heavyweight 740-page book is jam-packed with information,
illustrations and diagrams showing every aspect of Waterfuel.
You will not only discover the truth and the LONG-LONG history of Waterfuel but you will
also be able to SHOW WELL-DOCUMENTED PROOF that this technology is backed up by
many scientists, inventors and engineers. Show that Waterfuel has been published and
peer-reviewed in many 1000’s of pages of U.S. Patents, Worldwide Patents, as well as
governmental, scientific and engineering documentation.
Links in the book will lead you directly to several more thousands of pages available
freely on the internet, for further study. This is a must-have resource for open-minded
students of physics and energy, developers, inventors and all free energy enthusiasts.
Obtain your copy from http://water4gas.com/category/book-dvd/

CHAPTER 21 RESOURCES
ACTIVISM
“A true man does not only stand up for himself,

he stands up for those that do not have the
ability to.” ~William Lyon Mackenzie King (1874-1950),
considered the greatest Canadian Prime Minister
There are several easy ways to get active:
 Make or buy a Waterfuel system – even as simple as a Vaporizer (see chapter

on how to make it yourself for $2 or so) – AND USE IT YOURSELF in your
vehicle, motorcycle, boat, recreational vehicle or home/portable generator.
This will build up your understanding that Waterfuel is an objective reality.
SHOW IT to your friends and everyone you meet.
 Get The DVD Set and use it to TEACH OTHERS practical DIY Waterfuel
systems – PERMISSION GRANTED RIGHT HERE TO USE IT FOR ALL
CLASSROOM AND PUBLIC SHOWING! Order the DVD set now from:
http://water4gas.com/category/book-dvd/
 Get and use THE SCIENCE BOOK to show opinion leaders, public
officials and everybody else that Waterfuel is not a hoax but a deeply
researched SCIENTIFIC TRUTH that has been here a long while – and is here
to stay. No sane person can argue with it anymore! If you lay this
heavyweight book on the table and they still claim it’s a hoax or scientifically
impossible without reading the book, you know immediately that you’ve got a
blind man in front of you. Or an enemy agent.
 Use the knowledge in this book, and some experience you will gain, to get
into the Waterfuel business. It can be as easy as selling books, playing the
DVD in community classes, or even installing simple systems that you’ve
learned from this book. Look, it doesn’t have to be complicated and you don’t
need to be a mechanic when you team up with neighbors or friends who are
mechanics. NOTE that the DIY devices taught in this book are in the public
domain, which means that you do need to pay any royalties or fees to
anybody – you keep all the profits no matter how many devices and systems
you make, sell or install. The technology belongs to you.

For example, the

following image
shows products I
found on eBay and
other websites –
they are all made per
Chapter 10 of Book 1
and sold by my
readers. I invented
and published this
device in
Water4Gas books
since 2007, so it is
obvious that these
guys learned this
popular design right
out of this book.
This is just an example, as all other devices here are free to use and sell just as well;
these Water4Gas systems seen below are samples out of 1000’s currently being
offered on eBay, Alibaba and other shopping platforms, some even using copyrighted
graphics stolen from this book:

POPULAR PRODUCTS
Technology has moved a long way since we started in 2006!
FOR MODERN, PROFESSIONAL WATERFUEL SYSTEMS
VISIT OUR NEW AND IMPROVED WEBSITE:
www.Water4Gas.com
COMPLETE
SYSTEMS
A USEFUL BOOK FOR BACKYARD MECHANICS

Car Hacks & Mods For Dummies
Written by automotive expert David Vespremi, this low-
cost paperback is a treasure of advice on “modding”
(modifying) any car. Of special interest to you may be
the following topics (quoting from Amazon.com):
 Considering warranties, legal, and safety issues,

 Hacking the ECU (Engine Control Unit) to adjust
performance-enhancing factors …
 Replacing your ECU…
Get this book from Amazon.com
www.amazon.com/Hacks-Mods-Dummies-David-
Vespremi/dp/0764571427

Dear Reader,
I hope you enjoyed reading this book as much as I enjoyed

creating it. Now enjoy the benefits of Waterfuel and stay
tuned for news.
By having this powerful knowledge in your hands, you have

already done something to protect our environment and our
economy – and I want to personally thank you for that! If you
need assistance with applying this knowledge to your private or
business property, please let me know via the website.
For the past few years this entire book series existed in
e-book form only, because our technology was still evolving and
expanding, so I had to make frequent updates based on
feedback from Water4Gas experimenters around the world.
Now that the technology has matured and stabilized, THESE
BOOKS SHOULD BE AVAILABLE IN PRINT, too. If you want
to sell PRINTED COPIES to your clients or students, please
contact me via the website to obtain a distribution license.
Ozzie Freedom
Founder,

Book 1 System 2016

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Copyright © 2006-2016 Ozzie Freedom Water4Gas™ Book 1: BUILD THE SYSTEM

“BUILD THE SYSTEM” – Book ❶ of ❷

2 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com

 Book 2 teaches how to fine-tune the system to maximize your economy,

TABLE OF CONTENTS – THIS BOOK

CHAPTER 1 THE WONDER OF WATER FUEL..............................................5

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com 3

4 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com

This book is brought to you by

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com 5

How much water do we have?

From this angle we look

They say we have 326,000,000,000,000,000,000 gallons…

6 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com

Water is an amazing substance that absorbs and releases energy in

HHO HAS BEEN HERE SINCE 1789!!!

1 The first recorded successes in decomposing water using

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com 7

Although engines have changed dramatically, these

Working models of the Hugon Gas Engine are

1. An HHO Generator (principally

8 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com

4. Hydrogen is generated at the cathode, while Oxygen happens at the anode;

As you can see, this

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com 9

The Broad Agreement

10 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com

HHO is safer than hydrogen and safer than gasoline!

3. HHO is an environmentally friendly fuel, that returns to water when combusted

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com 11

WHERE DOES THE “HHO BREAKS THE LAWS

When some energy

Observe the diagram for

12 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com

HOW DOES HHO IMPROVE FUEL ECONOMY?

POSITIVE ENERGY BALANCE

“Question: Is the energy needed to produce HNG gas reasonable in

“Answer: The HNG gas is a reactive gas, not intended to be used as

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com 13

HHO Practical Principles

HHO can be likened to throwing a match to light the fire. ONLY A

HHO -- Not hydrogen!!!

HHO -- Not Stand-Alone Fuel (in our use)

It can also be described as:

HHO = IGNITER of Unburned Fuel

In more technical terms: it’s a CATALYST for efficient combustion.

How do we extract the Free Energy?

“Therefore, the potential to improve fuel efficiency with advanced technologies

14 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com 15

20%-35% in mileage gain calculates to 4%-7% in standard engine improvement. An

16 Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com

Conclusions about HHO:

IF IT’S SO GOOD, WHY DON’T AUTOMAKERS

HHO makes their vehicles

Is this tradition dissolving now?

Affordable ready-made systems, kits, DVD: www.Water4Gas.com 17

HOW MUCH WILL I SAVE?

Unsolicited DOUBLE-MILEAGE STORIES from Water4Gas

 Ray Warren from Linn County,

Read the article and watch the video at

Aired on WVEC-TV (ABC News),

Art Green from Norfolk, Virginia -

Watch Joe Flanagan reported for WVEC-