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Rear

Brakes
Rear Brake 1. Stand the bike up straight. A wheel chock or bike
• Fluid Inspection/Top Up lift will suffice.
• Brake Pad
2. I find it difficult to see the fluid level clearly
o Inspection
through the rear brake inspection window. So use
o Installation
a T5 Hex screwdriver to slightly undo the screw
• Caliper Teardown
holding the metal reservoir protector and slide it
o Removal
off. The fluid should not be below the lower mark.
o Caliper Clean
The fluid will go down as the brake pads wear. So
o Caliper Teardown
if it is low first check the thickness of the brake
o Wheel Installation
pads before adding more fluid. You want to
o Fluid Replacement/Bleed
minimize the number of times you take the lid off
• Brake Disc and expose the brake fluid to air. If you have lots
o Inspection of ‘meat’ on your brake pads but the fluid is low
o Replacement then you either have a fluid leak that needs to be
• Speed-Bleeder Installation-Optional Extra solved or someone didn’t fill it properly when
fluid replacement was done.
General Comments
The rear brake service details are limited in the
official Triumph Service Manual. To my knowledge
there is more than one type of rear brake caliper that
was used on the Thunderbird line-up. So for your
specific bike I suggest you check. Mine is a Brembo 2
pot caliper with a 30mm x 28.5mm piston and a 32mm
x 28mm piston. The Service manual says that this is a
non-serviceable item but this is not the case. If you
3. If you need to put in more DOT 4 fluid unscrew
give check what type caliper and what exact size your
the reservoir cap and lift out the rubber
brake pistons are you can order from PowerHouse
diaphragm. If the rubber diaphragm is perished I
(UK 01246 260665) a new seal and boot kit. You can
don’t think you can get a new one, you need to
even order replacement pistons if you like.
replace the whole plastic reservoir (T2020390).
The first time I replaced the brake fluid I found
the Speed-Bleeder’s very quick and handy to use.
However, when installing a dry brake hose I found it
more difficult to get all the air out, they were spongy
no matter what. When this happens I found I had to do
a reverse brake bleed. If you type this into you-tube
you will find examples of how to do this. Essentially
use a normal bleed nipple and syringe the fluid into the
bleed nipple up the pipe and then bleed the system as
per usual. This method pushes the main air bubbles up
the system rather than down. But you don’t always
need to do this.

Rear Brake Fluid Inspection/Top Up 4. Don’t put too much in because when you go to the
put the rubber diaphragm back it brake fluid will
spill out. So with it at the right level, put the
What you need before hand
diaphragm back in, screw on the cap. Return the
• Wheel chock/Bike lift
metal reservoir cover using the T5 Hex
• Screwdriver: T5 Hex screwdriver and tighten sensibly.
• DOT 4 Brake fluid
• Paper towel Job Done!
Steps

2 Thunderbird Storm

Brake Pads 4. Undo the bolt attaching the exhaust to the frame
using 12mm socket.
What you need before hand
• Needle nose pliers
• Screwdriver: T5 Hex
• Sockets: 12mm
• Needle nose pliers
• Wire brush/scotch pad
• R-clip x2 (21-23mm long, 1.2 Diameter)
o Or small split pin
• Paper towel
• Brake cleaner
• Ruler/Vernier caliper
• Possibly new brake pads T2020692
• Sandpaper

Steps: Removal/Inspection
1. Raise the bike of the ground so that the wheel can 5. Wiggle the silencer away from the CAT and place
move freely. aside. Put the bolt and rubber grommets back in so
you don’t loose them. With the silencers off, you
2. Removing the left silencer makes access to the may consider taking off the wheel and the caliper
brake pads much easier and isn’t hard to do. If you completely to give it a thorough clean. If so skip
are going to remove and clean out the caliper you to step 2 in the next section. Although in theory
need to remove the wheel and that is much easier you can follow these steps, I’ve typically found it
with both silencers off. It’s up to you. If removing too tough to remove the pads without removing
the exhausts, undo the two clasps holding the the wheel to increase access. But you bike might
exhaust shield to the exhaust using T5 Hex be squeaky clean and easy to get out.
screwdriver. Then slip it off.
6. Remove the pin that holds the brake pad retaining
pin with some needle nose pliers, then remove the
retaining pin. You may need a small round punch
to push the retaining pin out. Make sure you push
it from the left side of the caliper. The following
picture is taken from the inside to give a better
view of the retaining pin but you don’t need the
wheel removed to get to it.

Caliper Pin

3. Undo the clamp holding the exhaust to the


catalytic (CAT) converter (or pipe if you have
CAT removed) using 12mm socket.

Retaining Pin
7. With the retaining pin removed you need to
‘encourage’ the caliper pin out from the left side
of the caliper (side on the outside of the bike).
Due to all the dirt, mine was difficult to get out so
Rear Brakes 3

I used a small round punch. Yes this picture is
with the wheel removed for a clearer shot.

12. Put small smear of copper grease onto the caliper


retaining pin if you wish as per the Triumph
Service Manual and push it in from the right side
(wheel side) of the caliper. Clean up any excess
8. With the caliper pin out, the brake pads should grease. I prefer to use no copper grease and I do not
slide out. If you struggle to get them out, crack the get squeal or have sticking pads. Any grease and
bleed nipple open with a 8mm spanner and push pads can be dangerous.
the pistons back. Note which one was on the left
and right side of the caliper. If returning them it is 13. With the brake pads held in place, put a new R-clip
good practice to swap them from left to right so into position. It helps to bend over the top of it to
that the wear remains even. further reduce the risk of it sliding out.
Alternatively you can use a split pin.
9. Clean/Inspect/Replace the brake pads as
necessary. If the pad looks like they are in spec, 14. With the brake pads back in, check the operation of
clean it using brake disc cleaner, wire the brakes. Bleed the system if necessary as per the
brush/scotchpad and paper towel. The bottom of instructions below.
the groves in the brake pad is the minimum wear
line. You can just visually inspect it. But to be Job Done!
accurate, measure the depth of the pad using a
ruler or vernier caliper. The pad should be no less
than 1.5mm thick and this does not include the Caliper Teardown & Fluid Replacement
width of the brake pad plate. So measure the
width of the back plate using the vernier and then
the overall width, the difference will be the width General Comments
of the pad. If it is below or nearing the minimum This section of the guide gives you all the details for a
wear line, replace (T2020692). caliper teardown, but if you don’t need a full tear
down you can skip the irrelevant sections to you. In
this format there is one guide rather than separate ones
with lots of repetition. Don’t underestimate how often
cleaning the caliper should be done if you are riding in
the salt during winter.
ABS brake fluid replacement: There is much
debate on the Internet about this procedure. Some
Steps: Installation people just change their brake fluid each year instead
10. Make sure all parts are clean. Whether they are of every two years and purposely operate the ABS to
new or used, de-glaze the brake pads using push out the old brake fluid. However, with the Dealer
sandpaper/scotch brite on the contact surface. Tool software, you can flush the whole brake system
Don’t use ‘we and dry’ or emery cloths. every two years as required and know that the whole
system is as it should be.
11. Slide the cleaned/new brake pads into position. If
putting back the old pads, swap them within that What you need before hand
caliper so that they wear evenly over time. • Speed bleeders installed or alternative one-way
bleed system
• Screwdriver: T5 Hex
4 Thunderbird Storm

• Sockets: 8mm, 12mm, 27mm
• Spanner: 8mm, 12mm, 14mm
• Rubber mallet
• Needle nose pliers
• Small round punch
• Syringe
• Copper grease
• R-clip x2 (21-23mm long, 1.2 Diameter)
o Or small split pin
• Possibly part T2020595 anti-rattle spring 2. If you just want to replace the brake fluid then
• Paper towel skip to step 44. If you want to go the hole hog
• Brake cleaner or washing powder and water then carry on. Remove the spindle nut and
• Brake pad separator washer located on the right side of the wheel
• Compressed air (a foot pump did the job for using 27mm socket.
me)
• Pic
• Scotchpad
• Red rubber grease
• Silicone grease
• Multi-purpose grease
• Piston seal kit specific to your caliper
o Mine was a 30mm x 28.5mm
§ Also a 32mm x 28.5mm
• New nut (possibly): T3350118: M18
• Modified belt tensioner tool
• Vernier caliper
• Service/Alignment Tool T3880148 or laser 3. Loosen the lock nut and adjuster nuts using 14mm
alignment tool spanner on both the drive belt and disc brake sides
• Torque wrench: 110, 28Nm until there is substantial slack in the belt.
• Two brake hose copper washers (15.2 x 10 x1)
• Small bleed hose
• DOT 4 Brake fluid
• DealerTool Software if ABS model
o Along with a computer

Steps
1. Raise the bike and remove the silencers using
T5 Hex screwdriver, 12mm socket and 12mm
spanner.

4. Support the weight of the wheel and slide the


spindle out from the left side of the bike. It
might need a gentle tap with a rubber mallet.
Rear Brakes 5

8. Now disconnect the brake hose from the caliper


5. Lower the bike down so the wheel is resting on using 14mm spanner. Let the hose drip into a
the ground and not on the brake caliper. Remove bucket/container and not on the bike.
the upper belt guard for convenience using 8mm
socket on the back screw and a T5 Hex on the 9. Now with the caliper on the bench, remove the pin
front. that holds the brake pad retaining pin with some
needle nose pliers. Then remove the retaining pin,
6. The rear brake caliper isn’t screwed into the bike. you may need a small round punch to push the
It just sits on a slot on the swing arm. So with the retaining pin out. Make sure you push it from the
wheel disconnected, move it around until you can left side of the caliper.
slide the rear brake caliper from the slot. Don’t let
it dangle from the brake hose. Several elastic
bands or straps should support its weight. The Caliper Pin
wheel should also slide out with a wiggle. With
the caliper free you can now clean the caliper and
it’s components in warm dishwashing water or
brake cleaner. If this is all you want to do then
skip to step 25. Personally I find this kind of
superficial clean insufficient. So I recommend
removing the caliper completely and do a full tear
down so it is pristine.

Retaining Pin

7. In theory you can remove the caliper pin and the


brake pads at this point but I rarely find that it will 10. Then use a small punch to knock the retaining pin
budge. So I recommend removing the pin when the out. The brake pads will now slide out.
caliper is off the bike and on the workbench. So
start by removing the ABS wheel sensor if you 11. Clean/Inspect/Replace the brake pads as necessary
have one using a 8mm socket. Screw the screws as per previous instructions using a scotchpad and
and metal plate (shim) back in so you don’t loose brake cleaning fluid. The pad should be no less than
them. 1.5mm thick and this does not include the width of
the brake pad plate.
6 Thunderbird Storm

12. With the caliper and mounting bracket off the bike around the piston but if you want to remove it
you can slide it off the mounting bracket. completely continue to pump the air. But put a rag
over it otherwise the piston will shoot off. With
then most of the way out they should wiggle out.
The problem with the standard pistons is that you
need compressed air to remove them. A piston
removal tool will not work because they are
covered over. Mine were chipped and not easy to
source exact ones so I took the liberty of replacing
them with stainless steel.

13. Remove the clip in the bottom of the mounting


bracket and give a thorough clean or replace it if
damaged.

17. To do the re-build you will need to have a full seal


kit, place out the items to check you have all you
need.
14. Remove the caliper spring noting the direction of
the arrow/triangle in the middle. Clean it
thoroughly.

18. Use a pic to remove the outer dust seal

Caliper Teardown
15. Remove the brake nipple using a 8mm spanner.
Clean the tread.

16. To clean around the pistons and/or remove them


completely, put a brake pad separator in the caliper
and then use compressed air (I found a foot pump
sufficient) in the bleed nipple hole to pump a piston
out. Just do it a little bit if you just want to clean
Rear Brakes 7

19. Then remove the inner seal.

22. You don’t need to replace the rubber boots if they


are not perished but you may as well replace them
since they come in the kit. Push out the long boot
and push in the new one. Put a small smear of
20. Clean any gunk out of the inside of the piston silicone grease on the rubber to prolong its life.
cylinder. Then smear a thin amount of brake fluid
or red rubber grease onto the new seals. First install
the inner seals and then the outer dust seal. If
installed correctly the inner seal should feel like it
has a little lip on it when you rub your fingers over
it.

23. Replace the other rubber boot, but before you


remove the other one check that you are putting the
new one on the same way as the one you removed
(assuming it was right to begin with). Put a small
21. Now smear a thin amount of red rubber grease or smear of silicone grease on the rubber to prolong its
brake fluid onto the outside of the piston and slide it life.
back into place. Don’t push the piston all the way
in, leave a small gap so that the brake fluid can
work its way behind the piston when replacing the
fluid. Wipe off any excess grease.
8 Thunderbird Storm

24. With the parts all cleaned, return the clip in the
bottom of the mounting bracket and slide bracket
back onto the caliper.

26. Slide the cleaned/new brake pads into position. If


25. Clean the anti-rattle spring. There is an arrow putting back the old pads, swap them within that
(triangle) in the middle of the spring. Return the caliper so that they wear evenly over time.
spring to the clean caliper with the arrow facing
the same direction as the rotation of the brake 27. You can put copper grease onto the caliper
disc. retaining pin as per the instructions in the
Triumph Service Manual. I think the reason for
this is to help the pads slide across the pin, but
grease and brake pads should be avoided so I and
others on the internet (E.g. the amazing Mat at
The Workshop on YouTube) argue against copper
grease. Either way, push it in from the right side
(wheel side) of the caliper.

28. With the brake pads held in place, put a new R-


clip into position. It helps to bend over the top of
the R-clip to further reduce the risk of it sliding
out.
Rear Brakes 9

34. Put the spacers back into place: on the hub and
drive flange. The shorter wheel spacer lives on
29. Put some thread lock onto the bleed nipple thread the side of the final drive, the longer spacer
and reinstall it using a 8mm spanner. lives in the side of the brake disc.
30. Replace the copper washers on the banjo bolt to
avoid leaks (size 15.2 x 10 x1). Reconnect the
brake hose union bolt using 14mm spanner and
tighten sensibly (25Nm). It is easier to talk the
bolt later when the mounting bracket is back on
the bike.

35. Lower the bike if needed and roll the wheel


into place and slide the belt on.

31. Slide the caliper bracket back onto the slot on the
swing arm.

32. Reconnect the ABS speed sensor if fitted using


8mm socket and tighten sensibly. With the wheel
off you may want to refer to the Rear Wheel
Guide to see if there are other jobs you can do
with the wheel off: bearings, tire replacement.

36. Check the position of the brake caliper on the


swing arm. Make sure the brake calipers are on
either side of the brake disc.

Wheel Installation
33. Smear some multi-purpose grease on the lip of
the bearing seals and edges.

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