The Region’s BiggesT LuxuRy TRaveL Magazine

issue ninety nine | July 2016 Complimentary Copy

Cuba
Travel adventures untold,
from charming Havana to
unspoilt Viñales Valley

oman
Explore the fascinating culture
of the Sultanate, and its opulent
places to stay
Produced in International Media Production Zone

prague
Uncover the secret, peaceful
path through a Czech city
with two sides...

umbria
Tread in the footsteps of
history, gasp in awe of natural
splendour, and... keep the family
entertained? It's possible
 July 2016
World Traveller

Editor’s
Managing Director
Victoria Thatcher
Note
Editorial Director Issue ninety nine
July 2016
John Thatcher
When living in Dubai, Oman is one of those places. It’s like Paris
Group Commercial Director
is to London, or Singapore is when living in Kuala Lumpur: you’re
David Wade
aware that there’s a destination full of wonder sitting on the
Editor doorstep, and yet... you never commit to actually going. Months roll
Chris Ujma by; you’re content in the knowledge that it will ‘always be there’,
and ‘one day...’ you will finally explore. Well it’s time to seize the
Contributing Editor
moment, and our comprehensive insight to Oman will ignite your
Hayley Skirka
desire to visit the travel-treasure next door.
Art Director
Andy Knappett Actually, the luxury-road less-travelled is where we find ourselves
(without a map) this month. That includes an adventure unearthing
Designer
the wonders of Cuba, leaving the crowds behind to experience
Emi Dixon
the hidden side of Prague, and attempting to blend the seemingly
Illustrator impossible mix of history, culture and family-fun in Umbria.
Andrew Thorpe We’ve an assortment of places viewed from an entirely different
perspective, but don’t call us visionaries. We just love a truly unique
Sales Manager
tale that will captivate our friends once we get back home.
Lisa Price
lisa@hotmediapublishing.com
+971 4 375 3608
Production Manager Chris Ujma
Muthu Kumar christopher@hotmediapublishing.com

@wt_magazine

Cover: Cuba

Jun-Dec 2015 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit

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correct at time of press but may change. HOT
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1

Contents
The Sections
Check In
News and inspiration from
around the world
Destinations
In-depth travel features to
fuel your wanderlust
Weekends
Everything you need to know
about short-haul escapes
July 2016
World Traveller
Check In
6
Be Here Now
The majestic Khareef monsoon transforms
southern Oman, plus a plan to witness Africa’s
wildebeest migration (from a safe distance)
11
Globetrotter
El Corte Inglés celebrates its 75th anniversary,
two Scottish abodes have a gentlemanly duel, and
Domes Noruz arrives on the hotel scene
20
Chef’s Top Tables
Dario Cammarata of Villa Kennedy Hotel shares
his must-visit eateries around the globe
23
Spotlight On: Baku
The newest addition to the Formula 1 calendar
has plenty else to get the explorer’s heart racing
24
Style & Wellness
Spa news, travel accessories and fashion; make
your upcoming excursion that bit more stylish
3
Welcome
Contents

Destinations Weekends
34
Iconic: Guangzhou
61
Oman Special
The home of dim sum is a veritable parcel of The best hotels and must-see sights:
travel delight, and as an historic Chinese port here’s where to stay and what to do when
city it’s a cultural soup, where old meets new in the mighty Sultanate of Oman

38
Learning Curve
A beautiful tale of history, views and cuisine
in Italy’s stunning Umbria... but wait, there’s a
twist: the kids are in tow
76
One Weekend for All: Rome
The Eternal City is a must-visit if you’ve
never been, and evokes fond memories if
you have. We explore this Euro-gem

44
The Time is Now
Long on the radar but long inaccessible, Cuba
is emerging as a labyrinth of wonder. Book
soon; book ahead; prepare to be amazed
78
Great Escapes: A Splash of Summer
Cool-off (and make family-memories
too) at this collection of waterparks: the
perfect solution to beat the heat

52
Double Czech
When it comes to Prague, there are two sides
to every city-story. Here’s how to find the best-
kept secrets in this destination of intrigue
82
48-Hour Foodie
As festival season graces the Austrian
captial, we ensure travellers get their
share of fine fare on a Vienna weekend

4
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Check In
Be Here Now

Be
Here Now
Masai Mara, Kenya
From July onwards the ‘World Cup of
Wildlife’ occurs, as a high density of
wildebeest have congregated in the Western
Corridor and are ready to unleash their
thundering might across across a broad
front. Some head through Grumeti Reserve
and Ikorongo, others north through the
heart of Serengeti National Park, and then
move on from Tanzania to the pastures of
Kenya. This stage of the migration – where
thousands of the powerful beasts cross the
obstacle of the Mara River, being snapped at
by crocs and then preyed upon by lions – is
an immense sight, best viewed from up-high
in a hot air balloon over the plains of Masai
Mara. Up, up and away.

6
 July 2016
April 2015
World Traveller

7
Check In
Be Here Now

8
 July 2016
World Traveller

Southern Oman
This is no ordinary lush-green vista.
Months before, this very landscape was
arid desert as far as the eye can see; what
transforms this area from dry to delightful
is Khareef – the monsoon season. Surface
winds whip the Indian Ocean and in turn
create a cooling of the southern region of
Oman (the coastal fringe of Dhofar and
Salalah), with moist air and rainwater
ensuring the mountains become blanketed
in foliage. Wildlife flock to the region and
nature lovers can spot Arabian leopards,
hyenas, gazelle and hundreds of cows,
camels and goats (with plenty of treats to
witness through bird-watching binoculars,
too). Each year, Khareef is marked with
a festival from July 15 to August 31:
it’s a celebration of fashion, national
heritage, local cuisine, music, traditional
performances and folklore troupes. The
arrival of the natural phenomenon makes
this period the ideal time for an Omani
weekend staycation... turn to page 61 for
hints on where to stay and what to savour
whilst in the Sultanate.
9

If it’s an escape from the unpredictable
you’re seeking, this brand-new adults only
retreat in the Chania area of Crete could be
just what you’re after.
The latest addition to the Marriott’s
Autograph Collection Hotels throws open
its doors on July 20, when guests can select
elegant suites with pool or sea views or
go for an upmarket stay in a Sublime Loft,
where Cretan heritage meets modern design
in a home-away-from-home spread over
Globetrotter
Here’s what’s hot in travel this
month…
New Arrival
Domes Noruz, Chania, Crete
two magnificent levels. Opt for stunning
sea views and a private plunge pool, or
pool views with your very own heated
jacuzzi. When it comes to dining, relax into
the Noruz way at Zeen restaurant under
the watch of award-winning chef Doxis
Bekris, or head to the funky Raw Bar – set
to be Chania’s newest hotspot – where
you can feast on fresh local seafood and
drink-in one of the finest sunsets you’ll
ever see. Unwind with a treatment at the
July 2016
World Traveller
in-house spa where a whole host of natural
treatments using organic herbs from the
local area are on the menu. This beachfront
property is based in bustling Agioi Apostoli,
an area that’s quickly becoming one of the
Mediterranean’s must-sees. Take a stroll
along the Venetian harbour, soak up an
endless stream of Ottoman, Venetian and
Greek architecture, then see the area come
alive in the evening with fine dining, great
music and sparkling pool parties.
11
Check In
Globetrotter
© 2016 David Drebin
Culture
Day Dreaming
Master photographer David Drebin’s
Dreamscapes by teNeues is a great book
for anyone with a thirst for wanderlust.
Turn the pages, allowing yourself to
be transported from the beaches of the
Amalfi Coast to downtown San Francisco,
via the boulevards of Paris and beyond.
Reflections of light and dramatic colour
ensure the perfect daydream.
Food for thought
Around The World
As Carnaby Street Eat food festival rolls
into London (July 23) with a focus on global
cuisine, we look at some of the city’s more
permanent spots for international fare...
Peruvian
Señor Ceviche is the only Peruvian
restaurant in the area and the perfect place
to enjoy mouthwatering ceviche. carnaby.
co.uk/store/señor-ceviche
British
Try delicious steaks from mighty Yorkshire
Longhorn cattle at Hawksmore Seven Dials,
housed in the old Watney-Combe brewery.
sevendials.co.uk/stores/hawksmoor
Italian
A deep-rooted love of Italy is obvious in
every dish at Vico and the authentic Italian
piazzo even boasts an indoor fountain.
sevendials.co.uk/stores/vico
Ethiopian
With all seats centred around a huge injra
(flatbread), long-standing Lalibela in Tufnell
Park offers Ethiopan dining you’ll love.
lalibelarestaurant.co.uk
12
Scotland
Relax in an 800-year-old tavern or go fishing in
one of the world’s greatest salmon rivers
Banchory Lodge Hotel
What to expect? A Grade-II listed
Georgian building on the outside and a
contemporary chic setting on the inside,
this family-friendly lodge is a fantastic
place to unwind. Opt for a traditional, cosy,
rustic or grand room or stay overnight in
the property’s best-kept secret, the quaint
Cobbleheugh, for a real home-away-from
home experience.
Where is it? Set where the thundering
River Dee meets the meandering Water of
Feugh, you can enjoy gorgeous river views
flanked by rolling hills at Banchory Lodge.
With golf, fishing, walking and shooting
facilities onsite, the lodge is located in the
picturesque burgh of Banchory, making it an
ideal base from where to explore this part
of Scotland with the Cairngorms National
Park, dramatic coastlines and Balmoral
Castle all just a short drive away.
Must-do? With one of the world’s
greatest salmon rivers right on its
doorstep, Banchory is a fisherman’s
paradise. Meanwhile, Sunday brunch is a
definite must-do thanks to the impressive
showcase of delicious dishes in the recently
refurbished property. banchorylodge.com
Meldrum Country House Hotel
What to expect? A charming baronial
mansion, this thirteenth-century hotel
offers luxurious tranquillity steeped in
history. Rooms are individually designed,
all boasting real character, and dining is
a delight with locally-sourced ingredients
prevalent on the seasonal menus. Golf
lovers will be in their element at the world-
class golfing academy.
Where is it? Nestled in a 240-acre estate
in the charming Scottish countryside,
keep your eyes peeled for timid roe-deer
or soaring falcons as you make your way
up the impressive driveway. With rolling
parklands and the private 18-hole golf
course there’s certainly no shortage of
greenery, but for those craving a city break
it’s only a few miles from the hotel to the
bustling heart of Aberdeen, Scotland’s third
largest city.
Must-do? Dine in the Hotel’s Red Rosette-
winning restaurant – we recommend the
Aberdeen Angus steaks from local (and
renowned) Presley butchers in the nearby
village of Oldmeldrum. Afterwards, enjoy a
post-dinner drink in the 800-year-old Cave
Bar. meldrumhouse.com
Check In
Globetrotter

Embrace The Boutique

An emphasis on local and unique destinations has seen a huge rise in boutique
holidays, as people hunt out authentic experiences in a world that often seems
already discovered. Here’s three of our favourites …

Bahrain Lexington Vaxjo

Small but beautiful, this tiny
island kingdom is perfectly
boutique. Luxury shopping
malls alongside ancient
cities, a World Trade Center
powered by wind turbines
and a mysterious 400-year-
old tree that survives
without water, there are
stories to be discovered.
Stay at the beautiful SeaLoft
(thesealoft.com) overlooking
the Arabian Sea for
something truly distinct.
This Kentucky getaway is the
ideal place to soak up some
good old Southern hospitality.
Entirely walkable, the city
is awash with history, the
130-year-old opera house is a
definite must-see. This being
the horse capital of the world,
make time to visit historic
Keeneland Race Course here
before bedding-down in a
stately room at The Castle Post
(thecastlepost.com) just a few
kilometres away.
In the middle of Sweden’s
Småland, this city is officially
the greenest in Europe. Known
as the kingdom of crystal thanks
to its history of creating hand-
blown glass, you can witness
the glass artists in action, go
swimming alfresco in the lake
district, attend a sing-along
in Linneparken, or tuck into
delicious Swedish fare with
a stay at Scandinavia’s first
gastro hotel, PM & Vanner
(pmrestauranger.se/en).

14
 July 2016
World Traveller

Insider
Full Steam Ahead
Trainspotters take note, Belmond is
launching South America’s first luxury
sleeper train, the Belmond Andean Explorer
in Peru. Expected to run from May 2017,
the journey will whisk travellers across the
Peruvian Andes from Cusco to Lake Titicaca
and Arequipa. One for the bucket list.

App
Travel Buddies
App in the Air is the personal travel
assistant you’ve been waiting for. Keeping
you up-to-date with your flight status,
providing in-airport navigation maps and
handy airport tips – like where to find the
best food and how to connect to free wireless
networks – it’s the ideal travel companion.

Going Up in the World

The Royal City
Where? Luang Prabang, Laos
Why? Thanks to the announcement of a
new road linking China to Thailand via
Luang Prabang, tiny landlocked Laos is set
to be the hottest spot in Southeast Asia.
What? With Saffron-clad monks, ancient
temples, Gallic cuisine and colonial
mansions, the tiny mountain kingdom
of Luang Prabang is also a designated
UNESCO World Heritage site. Watch long
tail boats race down the Mekong River,
swim in aquamarine waterfalls, or visit an
elephant camp in this mystical city.
Where to stay? Surrounded by tropical
gardens and lofty mountain views, a stay at
The Luang Say Residence offers colonial-
style luxury suites, a huge swimming
pool surrounded by replica umbrellas
used by explorers who rode on elephant-
back through the Laotian hills, and
delicious fine dining at Le Belle Epoque.
luangsayresidence.com
Celebrate summer with El Corte Inglés
From a humble tailor’s shop in the heart of Madrid to the
biggest department store in Europe, El Corte Inglés is
celebrating 75 years of fashion this summer...
Step Back in Time Football Fever Tuck In
Head to the first ever With La Liga and the Copa There’s no love greater than
El Corte Inglés store on Del Rey renowned across the love of food, or so they
Madrid’s Preciados Street the world, football fans say, and whether it’s tapas
and take a journey through will notice that El Corte or paella, food is central
time looking at the fashion, Inglés will be dressing the to Spanish culture. It’s
the trends, the advertising Spanish football team for only natural, then, that it
and the tastes that have the next three years thanks takes pride of place in the
shaped society over the past to its in-house brand Emidio anniversary celebrations
75 years. After Madrid, the Tucci. Look out for the at El Corte Inglés. Expect
exhibition will travel to players donning timeless yet delicious food fairs that are
Barcelona, Seville, Bilbao, contemporary looks at both overflowing with top quality
Malaga, Alicante and Palma this summer’s UEFA Euro produce, exclusive products,
de Mallorca. It’s obligatory 2016 tournament in France and a focus on delicious
viewing for any fashion fans and the upcoming 2018 artisanal local ingredients;
in Spain this summer. World Cup in Russia. it’s time to get eating.

15
Check In
My City
MY CITY
Oxford, England
Richard Ovenden
of Bodleian Libraries
– the main research
library of the University
of Oxford – talks us
through ‘The City of
Dreaming Spires’
Start your day with a brisk walk around
Christ Church Meadow, seeing the rare
fritillaries and thinking about the great
figures – John Locke, Lewis Carroll, Evelyn
Waugh, Iris Murdoch and more – who have
thought great thoughts while making the
same stroll. I’d then take in the Pitt Rivers
Museum and Ashmolean Museums, and
another fine walk can be had around the
wonderful Covered Market, shopping for
food before quaffing some well-earned hops
in the ancient Turf Tavern.
In terms of chosen abode whilst here,
The Old Parsonage is a uniquely
beautiful seventeenth century house, now
16
a stunning hotel. Radcliffe Square is
a memorable must-visit, which has the
magnificent Radcliffe Camera at its
centre, surrounded by the old Bodleian,
three colleges, and the ancient University
Church (which is one of the most
spectacular architectural spaces in Europe).
The fashion forward, meanwhile, should
head to Ducker & Son on Turl Street, a
fabulously old-fashioned shoe shop, and can
show off the new togs while dining at the
Cherwell Boathouse. The latter is located
on the banks of the Cherwell River, you
can work up an appetite punting, then enjoy
local fare and a glass of grape.
For a slice of peace and quiet, The
University Botanic Gardens is the oldest
in the UK, the second oldest in Europe,
and is a haven of beauty in the heart of
Oxford that has inspired writers like Philip
Pullman. On the literary theme, buy an
erudite volume or two in Blackwell’s, still
the country’s biggest and best bookshop
with hundreds of thousands of books,
well-chosen by dedicated staff. Then
clink glasses at The White Horse on
Broad Street, a pub frequented by Lewis
and Tolkien. Most people don’t know this
about the city, but it was the destination
of the first photographic journey in
the world – William Henry Fox Talbot
included photographs of Oxford in the first
publication illustrated by his invention
in 1844, called The Pencil of Nature. He
regarded Oxford as ‘the place of the genius
of repose’, and in 2017 Oxford will host a
major photography festival.
Finally, not being biased, but visit the
Bodleian Libraries – it has some of the
most beautiful rooms in the world, such as
the fifteenth century Divinity School (home
to the Oxford Parliament in the 1640s) and
Duke Humfrey’s Library, where J.R.R.
Tolkien researched much of his life’s work.
Oxford is a city that is truly steeped in
history and heritage.
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Check In
Ask The Expert
Ask the
EXPERT
Rob Arrow is a product manager at
dnata Travel and a self-confessed
hotel geek. With nearly a decade
of experience in the luxury travel
industry, Rob loves nothing more
than talking hotels and discovering
destinations. His favourite country
is Lebanon, his treasured city’s Los
Angeles, and his dream is to own a
boutique retreat in the Italian Alps
Q. As we discover in this issue, Cuba
is slowly opening up for travel. Which
emergent destinations have taken you
by surprise in the past few years, and
what makes them special?
A. An asset of being based in a very central
region is the ability to easily travel in all
directions and in many cases be the first
to discover what is on offer around this
magnificent globe. People in the GCC are
pioneers of the new travel trends, and an
ever-expanding network of legacy carriers
means we can travel direct to almost all
reaches of the world. Over the last couple
of years, as borders have moved and visa
restrictions erased, some really exciting
18
destinations have started to pop up. Close-
by is Baku in Azerbaijan – a fabulous
city with a vibe of Istanbul but the look
of Paris, happily perched on the shores of
the Caspian Sea. With its magical Yanar
Dag ‘Fire Mountain’ mesmerising and its
burning earth, leisurely strolls around
Fountain Square, and the lovely Azeri
restaurants in which to enjoy the local-
grown vegatables, you will get lost in this
new discovery.
Not far from Azerbaijan is Georgia, and
again this has seen a recent flux of long-
weekenders from the GCC region. Here
you get the wonderful city of Tbilisi, and
just an hour or so drive away, the magical
mountain world of Kasbegi means you can
dream you are in the Alps – though small in
size it’s big in wonder.
A little further from home is Japan and
the cities of Kyoto and Tokyo. They are
especially popular in Cherry Blossom
season and many enjoy the zen aura of laid-
back Kyoto. With the new Four Seasons
opening at the end of the year in Kyoto, I
think that it will blossom itself into a key
destination. Seoul has also seen a recent
upsurge from this region, thanks to its
mega malls for shopping at good prices and
the opportunity to savour some fantastic
noodles: real highlights.
Tbilisi
Q. July is when festival season gets
into full swing – especially in Europe.
What are the events you recommend
(and where should visitors stay)?
A. July is a month that the world wakes
up, and mostly to the sound of music. For a
more refined festival experience, check into
the glorious Goodwood Park Hotel for
the Goodwood Festival of Speed. Reside
in a luxurious boutique hotel in central
London like The Wellselley, London in
Knightsbridge to visit the Henley Royal
Regatta, seeing the rowers’ power down
the River Thames and to enjoy the brief
burst of UK summer.
If you want more excitement then
head across to Belgium and take in the
Tomorrowland Festival. Check into the
lovely Hotel Amigo, Brussels and enjoy
the contemporary atmosphere before setting
off for electronic music with a Belgian-
countryside backdrop. A destination that
is much quieter in the summer, but has its
dose of sound, is Verbier in Switzerland.
You can be assured a slice of finesse.
In general, summertime in Europe is about
getting out and enjoying the short spell of
good weather. For more about travelling in
Europe (or to one of these cool festivals),
visit your local dnata outlet, call our contact
centre or log onto dnatatravel.com
Check In
Chef’s Top Tables
This page: Le Calandre.
Opposite page, clockwise
from top: Duomo; Le
Calandre; Eleven Madison
Park.
Chef’s
TOP TABLES
Executive Chef Dario
Cammarata can be found
cooking up at storm at Gusto
restaurant in Villa Kennedy –
Frankfurt’s most elegant 5-star
hotel. What are his global
culinary secrets?
20
Ristorante Duomo, Ragusa, Sicily
Order: Potato gnocchi ‘al
ragusano’ with sepia-pork
meatballs and salsa alla carbonara
Every time I visit my Sicilian home I make
sure to stop here. The chef Ciccio Sultano
is a fanatic of good products and tradition.
His creations are really innovative and
expressive: simple recipes re-interpreted
with a double-Michelin star touch. I love the
gnocchi and it is really worth the journey.
Le Calandre, Sarmeola di
Rubano, Italy
Order: Buffalo ricotta, mozzarella
cannelloni with tomato sauce
I simply adore Massimiliano Alajmo. His
buffalo ricotta and mozzarella cannelloni
with tomato sauce are the perfect
combination of tradition and innovation.
His serving method is geometric art and I’ve
never eaten a tomato sauce that is so pure
in its taste.

Le restaurant, Valence, France
Order: Consommé glacé with
blackcurrant leaf, elderflower ice
cream and vanilla espuma
Anne-Sophie Pic serves a changing menu
with exclusive seasonal dishes full of taste.
Her plates are clear and feminine, and she
uses 100% regional produce. The first time I
entered the restaurant I was overwhelmed
by the minimalistic design, the warm
welcome and later on by the perfect menu.
July 2016
World Traveller
Eleven Madison Park Restaurant, Fulvio Pierangelini, Tuscany
New York Order: Artichokes alla Romana
Order: Celeriac risotto Last but not least, my absolute favourite
Definitely one of my favourites not only dish in combination with one of my most
because of the delicious cuisine but also most-loved places: Artichokes alla Romana
because I’m visiting an old friend. Daniel at Fulvio Pierangelini’s house in Tuscany.
and I have worked together in Switzerland. Fulvio is the Director of Food with Rocco
One of my favourite dishes is his celeriac Forte Hotels; hence I have had the honour
risotto - creamy and yummy. His secret is of working with him, and Fulvio is a
shaved celery and Amarettini crumbs on ‘protectionist’ of regional food, creating
top, that gives it the special twist. very fresh, healthy and tasty combinations.
21
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<MEQIR

Bristol +PEWKS[ London Poole Tunbridge Wells /LSFEV
=ERKSR

Budapest +YERK^LSY Manchester Reading Wimbledon &IVPMR
8SO]S


Spotlight On
Baku
A fusion of East and West
centred around gleaming
skyscrapers and a UNESCO-
listed Old Town, Azerbaijan’s
capital is about much more
than Eurovision glory
Eat and Drink
Mugham Club
In the walls of a 500 year-old fortress,
this is the ideal spot to tuck into authentic
Azeri dishes with a distinctly modern twist.
Decorated with old photographs of Baku,
the atmosphere is purely magical with its
stonewalls, Persian rugs, open ceilings, fig
trees and twinkling lanterns.
Chinar Lounge
Originally a teahouse and retaining the
original Chinar trees on its downtown
terrace, this is the perfect place to enjoy
a sophisticated evening with Baku’s
trendsetters. Have dinner in the bamboo-
screened restaurant or head upstairs for
late night drinks in the lavish bar as the DJ
keeps everyone entertained.
Kafe Araz
Packed with little wooden tables, this
24-hour traditional eatery is where the
locals dine. Tuck into authentic Azeri food
– sample bear if you’re brave enough – in
relaxed surroundings where food delights
tastebuds and prices delight the wallet.
See and Do
The Old City
This World Heritage Site is an absolute
must-do. Making up the historical core of
the city, its cobbled streets are a world away
from the city’s gleaming skyscrapers. Climb
to the top of the twelfth-century Maiden
Tower, tour the Palace of the Shirvanshahs,
browsing tiny antique stores and stop to
refresh at a traditional tearoom.
Baku Boulevard
Packed with cafes, fountains and fairground
rides, this seafront park is the perfect
place for a family day out. The Mugham
Centre hosts regular festivals and concerts
featuring Azerbaijani music and the Old
Puppet Theatre is a great spot to try the
national pastime – it’s not just for kids.
Stay
Four Seasons Baku
With every room boasting gorgeous views
of either the Caspian Sea or the historic Old
Town, this hotel offers a slice of elegance
you’ll want to experience. Tuck into top-
notch cuisine; pamper yourself with a
July 2015
World Traveller
traditional hammam treatment in the top-
floor spa and then shop at the Park Bulvar
Shopping Centre, two minutes’ drive away.
Jumeirah Bilgah Beach Hotel
Beside 300m of white sand on the eastern
edge of Baku (where the air is said to be
purest) this was the first international
resort in the city and is known for its stylish
rooms and wellness-centric approach. A spa
centre with thermal beds will help adults
relax, while the kids have fun at the
onsite waterpark.
• Don’t miss
Head 25km northeast of Baku to witness
the spectacle that is Yanar Dag (Fire
Mountain). Whilst we can’t actually
agree with the ‘mountain’ terminology –
it’s definitely more of a hill – the folklore-
shrouded, eternally blazing mound is
pretty spectacular. Catch it at night
to see the Absheron winds twist the
three-metre-high flames into mysterious
shapes under a starry sky.
23
Check In
Style & Wellness

Style
Wellness
&

1.

1.

2.

What to pack
for a holiday in...
Thailand
1. Emilio Pucci Printed Bikini
Bottoms, AED1,578
2. Master & Dynamic, MH40
Over Ear Headphones,
AED1,364
3. Chloé Suede Wedges,
AED1,578
4. Alexander McQueen, Piercing
Bar Round Frame Sunglasses,
AED1,407
5. Smythson, Panama Live 3.
Love Laugh Leather Notebook,
AED193
6. Maslin & Co Printed Cotton
Towel, AED 808

All items available at

STYLEBOP.com

24
 July 2016
World Traveller

The
Style-Savvy
4.
Local
Sally Sarieddine is
founder of LaLaQueen, a
contemporary fashion label
whose bags have featured in
such titles as British Vogue
and Harper’s Bazaar. She
tells us about the best that
Beirut has to offer
On a fashion hunt while visiting, you
must head to Mira Hayek atelier in
Gemayzeh, where you will definitely
find a sport chic outfit that you could
confidently and comfortably cruise
around in; it is one of my treasured
boutiques there. When it comes to the best
restaurants, there is so much amazing food
in Lebanon that you won’t have trouble
finding something delicious. I have to say
5.
Dar Bistro & Books in Hamra is one of
my all-time favourite spots in Beirut. They
have a gorgeous little bookstore and exhibit
some really interesting photography work
which is fantastic to peruse after a lovely
meal. Among my choice hangouts would
have to be some of Beirut’s cool outdoor
venues. If I have time in the city I head
down to Sporting Beach Club (one of the
oldest beach clubs in the city) and find a
quiet spot facing the sea to read a book. At
the weekend I take a drive to Batroun, a
beautiful coastal city in Northern Lebanon
and one of the oldest cities in the world, or
spend the day with family and friends in
6. Bzebdine (my village) which is a lovely
place with beautiful scenery and fresh
air. For culture, Metro al Madina and
Masrah al Madina have a really cool mix
of different types of local and international
performances, and whether it’s dance,
music or theatre, there is something for
everyone to enjoy at these theatres. My tip
is to connect with someone Lebanese and
accept an invitation for lunch or dinner at
their house. You’ll never see the city the
same way as when you’re with a local! Shop
Sally’s designs at lalaqueen.com

25
Check In
Style & Wellness

The Spa You Need

Forty Winks

A good night’s sleep. It’s the foundation for a productive day (especially
one of travel exploration), and is an element that can make or break
the success of a getaway. ‘Sleep Escapes’ are on the rise, be it for those
looking to address deep-rooted pillow problems, or others simply
looking for a satisfying spell of kip

I’m looking for...

East, West & plenty of zeds
Kamalaya Koh Samui, Thailand
The core focus here is on naturopathy,
looking at traditional Chinese Medicine,
massage therapy and mind-body balance.
Kamalaya’s approach looks more at your
inner aura, with treatments such as
Shirodhara, acupuncture and foot massages
within a therapeutic programme that
combat life’s stresses and strains. The
property has stunning rooms and villas,
and the resort itself is centred around a
Bhuddist monk’s cave; a place of meditation
and spiritual retreat, the name translates
as Lotus Realm. It’s a deeply holistic
destination on the path to inner peace and
sleep enhancement. kamalaya.com
Dedicated slumber specialists
The Sleep Retreat, United Kingdom
In a cosy Hampshire country house is an
authentic, homely setting in which to solve
your sleep issues. Other outfits in the UK
vie for their throne, but The Sleep Retreat
does it best. Their ‘four pillars’ of treatment
are wellness, social, nutritional and clinical,
and they use ‘evidence-based techniques…
based on years of research and practice by
international sleep experts’ to equip you
with the cognitive behavioural therapies
that will ensure better long-term sleep.
Stunning rural countryside, Alice Macaire-
designed rooms, plus a gym, sauna, sports
facilities and massage/yoga studio make
this a dream setting. the-sleep-retreat.com
A resort adored by the UAE
The Orchard Wellness & Health
Resort, Malaysia
They regularly welcome guests from this
region, who avail the signature weight
loss, detox and fitness treatments; the
insomnia sleep enhancement programme is
beginning to prove popular. A consultation
session conducted by physicians delves into
lifestyle, medical history and sleep patterns,
paired with a sleep image scan. Among
the cures are a discussion on managing
insomnia, nutritional therapy to induce
sleep, yoga, meditation, and even a dash of
traditional Chinese medicine. You can stay
up to ten nights at this wellness spa, voted
Malaysia’s best. orchardwellness.com

26

Eastern
Delights
Make memories with a day
of romantic luxury at the
Park Hyatt Dubai...
I
ndulge in your mind, body and soul with
a romantic escape at one of Dubai’s finest
five-star resorts. Experience romance in
the stunning, serene and intimate setting at
the Park Hyatt Dubai, the perfect getaway
for couples seeking some quality time.
Begin your voyage with the Amara
Couples’ Journey, a three-hour indulgent
experience that is simply perfect for two.
Beginning with a delicate rose petal hand-
and-foot bathing ceremony in the comfort
of a private garden at the award-winning
Amara Spa, couples can select their choice
of soothing melodies before settling down
next to one another for a blissful coffee and
cardamom scrub. Enjoy the scintillating
scents as your highly trained therapists
gently perform the treatment, and then
wrap each of you in a sandalwood and
rosewater wrap - a therapy sure to leave
your skin glowingly soft. Afterwards,
it’s time to truly relax with a full body
massage that incorporates the best of all
worlds; with Balinese techniques, Hawaiian
movements and Thai-inspired stretching.
Finish proceedings with a phyto-aromatic
facial, leaving you refreshed and hydrated
and then enjoy some time reconnecting as
you relax on a private terrace.
As the sun goes down, it’s time to get
ready for a dinner to remember. The Thai
Kitchen presents authentic dishes prepared
by native chefs. World-renowned Chef
Supattra Boonsrang – Chef de Cuisine at
July 2015
World Traveller
The Thai Kitchen – hails from Thailand and
her authentic experience, coupled with 23
years as a Hyatt chef are not to be missed.
With three live cooking stations, recreating
the excitement of bustling Bangkok, the
restaurant offers mouth-watering cuisine
with the majority of ingredients either being
imported directly from Thailand or sourced
from Chef Supattra’s private herb patch in
the grounds of the hotel. Order the spicy
pomelo salad and the roasted red duck curry
for a meal to remember and the perfect end
to your day.
Reconnect with someone you love, escape
the rest of the world for a day and find peace
and pleasure at the Park Hyatt Dubai.
dubai.park.hyatt.com
27
Check In
World Traveller Promotion
Indian
Ocean
Jewel
A dash of European heritage, an exotic
island address, nature and cuisine
galore, and so much more; here are five
reasons to fall in love with Kempinski
Seychelles Resort, Baie Lazare
A Stunning Destination
Pictures of this property look like
postcards: the ocean and sky compete for
the ‘most beautiful blue’ crown, while the
1.2km-long beach is content with being
sandy white and a contrast to the lush green
backdrop. This is not just any ‘greenery’
either: the resort is on the cusp of two
UNESCO World Heritage sites. Within
easy reach are the capital Victoria and also
the islands of Praslin and La Digue, so the
avid explorer has much to discover, with
the Kempinski Seychelles as their opulent
headquarters. That said, the hotel has
plenty of competing reasons to convince
the guest to stay on-resort, such as a sunset
dinner or sunrise breakfast overlooking the
beach or lagoon. Speaking of food…
28
Dining Delights
The hotel is proud of its culinary portfolio,
and with good reason. Café Lazare is a
scrumptious place to start (or end) the
day, with all-day dining that has themed
buffets in the evenings. Windsong Beach
Restaurant has direct beach access, and is
the ideal place for grilled seafood and BBQ,
with the sound of the waves as a soothing
accompaniment. There’s Planters Bar &
Lounge, which offers light snacks, indulgent
cocktails and live music. And for fare in a
more-formal environment, L’Indochine is
the prime place for connoisseurs of Pan-
Asian cuisine. The pièce de résistance is
that the resort boasts its own sushi chef,
crafting what is arguably the best sushi
served in the Seychelles.
A Sense of Occasion
One thing about this resort is that
they know how to put on a show: from
weddings, honeymoons and banquets to
ballroom soirées or business meetings,
there’s every reason to complement that
top-notch event with a slice of paradise
and luxury. For example, The Salon
Quincy Ballroom here is one of the
largest event rooms in the Seychelles,
and on-site prestige also includes the
only hotel-gaming venue in the south of
Mahé Island. There are plenty of special
offer opportunities for a treat, with a
host of stay-combinations such as the
Early Booker or Spa packages tailored
by the brand for those seeking an extra
remarkable holiday experience.

Wellness, Recreation and
Family Fun
Adults can opt for a pampering session in
magnificent Kempinski The Spa, where a
menu of treatments are administered in
traditional bungalow houses surrounded
by lush forest. The signature, seasonal
and beauty regimes ensure guests come
away restored, revitalised, relaxed and
energised – depending on which therapy
they indulge in. Meanwhile for the more
active, an Olympic-sized pool, fitness
centre, PADI diving centre and two tennis
courts should get the adrenaline pumping,
or continue the quest for inner peace up
on the hill with a spot of yoga. Those
most discerning of guests – the children
– have not been forgotten here either. A
dedicated team is on-hand to keep them
entertained at the Kids’ Club, where they
can partake in engaging activities such as
tortoise feeding. After the clan has gone
its separate ways, they can reunite and
share time with a range of leisure pursuits
such as beach volleyball and badminton,
nature walks, watersports activities like
snorkelling or water golf, and there are even
bikes available for rent so the family can go
exploring with a dose of pedal-power.
Stay in Style
After all the excitement, when it’s time to
retire back to a spacious abode there are
suite options to suit every vista. Hill View,
Sea View, and Sea View Garden rooms are
stunning and the Exclusive Suites take
July 2016
World Traveller
luxury up a notch or two to a ‘royal’ level.
Available in One Bedroom Hill View or
Sea View Garden, these contemporarily
decorated suites have lounge areas, king-
sized beds, generous-sized bathrooms and
all of the comforts one would expect – not
to mention stunning vantages of flora to
wake-up to each morning. For direct beach
access, the Sea View option is a hop away
from sinking feet into soft sand, and the Hill
View choice overlooks the verdant forests
of Mahé. The rooms have been carefully
composed to ensure that each is a worthy of
being called a ‘home away from home’.
For more about this stunning property (and
its guest offers), visit kempinski.com/en/
baie-lazare/seychelles-resort
29
Check In
dnata Offers
WORLD TRAVELLER
Reader
Offers
A Switzerland
Hotel Warwick Geneva
5 nights from USD902 per
person
Special offer: 15% discount on
room rates
Includes: Stay in a Classic
Room with breakfast daily and
return airport transfers
Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016
Head down the the lobby’s spiral
staircase and step into this
spectacular city. The hotel is in
close proximity to Lake Geneva,
the Patek Philippe Museum, and
the Grand Theatre.
30
B Italy
Armani Hotel Milano,
Milan
5 nights from USD1,616 per
person
Special offer: 25% discount on
room rates
Includes: Stay in an Armani
Deluxe Room with breakfast
daily and return airport
transfers
Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016
This is not a mere appreciation
of design: it's an immersion into
the Armani philosophy. Well,
when in Rome...
Czech Republic
Augustine, A Luxury
Collection Hotel, Prague
5 nights from USD984 per
person
Special offer: Stay 4 nights and
receive an additional night free
and complimentary upgrade to
next room category
Includes: Stay in a Deluxe
Room with breakfast daily and
return airport transfers
Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016
The brand calls this hotel
'the quintessence of Prague’s
historic character and beauty'.
Jordan
The Boulevard Arjaan by
Rotana
2 nights from USD159 per
person
Special offer: Receive 20%
discount on room rate and
complimentary upgrade to the
next room category
Includes: Stay in a Classic
Studio with breakfast
Validity: Now 'til Sep 30, 2016
A lifestyle destination (or, even,
a community). The stylish hotel
apartments are an ideal stay for
a spot of shopping and dining.

IJ C
AB
K
D
E Seychelles
AVANI Seychelles
Barbarons Resort & Spa
3 nights from USD430 per
person
Special offer: 50% discount on
room rate
Includes: Stay in an Avani
Beach Access Room with
breakfast daily and return
airport transfers
Validity: Now 'til Sep 15, 2016
Refreshing European heritage
and a contemporary vibe;
perfect for both the relaxing or
energetic getaway.
F
G
E H
F Sri Lanka
Anantara Peace Haven
Tangalle Resort
3 nights from USD542 per
person
Special offer: 35% discount on
room rate
Includes: Stay in a Premier
Garden View Room with
breakfast daily and return
airport transfers
Validity: Now 'til Sep 15, 2016
We urge you to snap up this
offer at the recent addition to
Sri Lanka's luxury hotel scene.
A true hospitality highlight.
You can book these offers
apply. On the same site you
Singapore
Shangri-La Hotel
Singapore
4 nights from USD694 per
person
Special offer: Stay 3 nights and
receive an additional night free,
plus kids under 16 years-old stay
free
Includes: Stay in a Garden
Wing Deluxe City View Room
with breakfast daily and return
airport transfers
Validity: Now 'til Sep 15, 2016
A three-wing luxury hotel just
6km from iconic Marina Bay.
July 2016
World Traveller
How to Book
by calling dnata on
+971 4 316 6666
Or visit dnatatravel.com
Terms and conditions
can also sign up to dnata’s
newsletter and receive
more offers direct to
your inbox.
H Bali
Meliá Bali – The Garden
Villas, Indonesia
2 nights from USD357 per
person
Special offer: 25% discount on
room rate
Includes: Stay in a Melia Guest
Room with breakfast daily and
return airport transfers
Validity: Now 'til Sep 15, 2016
Set in 11-hectares of lush forest
and on the beachfront, this
is escapism at its best. Five
restaurants, YHI SPA, and
supreme service. Exotic.
31
Check In
dnata Offers
Shangri-La Paris
St James's Hotel & Club
Nestled among the travel-destination elite, these four
I J
UK
St James's Hotel & Club
4 nights from USD1,325 per
person
Special Offer: 15% discount on
room rate
Includes: Stay in an Executive
Room with breakfast daily and
return airport transfers
Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016
There's a fine portion of heritage
at this Victorian-era property: it
dates back to 1857. The five-star
boutique hotel has a Michelin
star restaurant, top-notch club,
and is located between The Mall
and Buckingham Palace.
32
dnata’s
FANTASTIC FOUR
The Prime of Life
prestigious places carry themselves with aplomb
France
Shangri-La Hotel, Paris
4 nights from USD1,595 per
person
Special Offer: Complimentary
upgrade to next room category
Includes: Stay in a Premier
Room with return airport
transfers
Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016
Francofiles will be well-aware
that the 6th arrondissement is
perfect for sightseeing (the hotel
has Eiffel Tower views) and
fashion. In a city that embodies
elegance, the Shangri-La upholds
the sense of regal majesty.
The Alpina Gstaad
Four Seasons Resort Maldives Kuda Huraa
K L
Switzerland
The Alpina Gstaad
3 nights from USD1,095 per
person
Includes: Stay in a Deluxe
Room with breakfast daily and
and compact automatic Volvo
V40 rental, or similar, for 4 days
with pick-up and drop-off from
Geneva Airport via Hertz
Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016
Perhaps we should have
reserved the word 'majesty' for
the soaring Bernese Alps, the
backdrop to this high-class hotel:
think mountain-view balconies
and carved wood ceilings.
Maldives
Four Seasons Resort
Maldives at Kuda Huraa
4 nights from USD2,310 per
person
Special Offer: Stay 3 nights and
receive an additional night free
and complimentary upgrade to
half board. One child under 12
stays free
Includes: Stay in a Sunset
Beach Pavilion with Pool, with
breakfast daily and return
speedboat transfers
Validity: Now 'til Sep 15, 2016
Indian Ocean; palm trees;
beachside bungalows; bliss.
Email us at contactcentre@dnata.com
call +971 4 316 6666
Destinations
Iconic Guangzhou
Shanghai

Guangzhou
Iconic

A sprawling Pearl River port city and prosperous metropolis,

the well-connected bithplace of dim sum harbours tempting
cuisine and a wealth of travel-wonder

34
 July 2016
November 2015
World Traveller

Bigger is Better
2016 is the eighth anniversary of
the successful (daily) Doha-Baiyun
International Airport route, and
guests flying QR874/875 will
celebrate the milestone in style. From
July 1, they’ll be aboard the bespoke
Airbus A380, as the airline becomes
the first foreign carrier to operate
the super-jumbo to the city. Extra
comfort is 90-inch pitch seats with
fully lie-flat beds and spa-inspired
bathrooms in First Class, while both
First and Business Class guests can
relax in the spacious in-flight lounge
on the upper deck. There’s on-
demand à la carte dining and Armani
amenity kits in those classes, too.
qatarairways.com

Zhujiang New Town

The Canton Tower side of
the river gazes at Huacheng
Square, and Haixinsha
Island to the far left – the
Asian Games gem in the
Tianhe district. The Pearl
River (popular for day and
night cruises) is an ever-
present in the city’s storied
heritage, serving as the
‘Silk Road on the Sea’ as far
back as the Qin dynasty.
Behind the gleaming towers
are trade hub fingerprints,
where over the ages an
influx of architectural and
societal flavours moulded
firstly a colonial, then a
cosmopolitan aura.
35
Destinations
Iconic Guangzhou

Nanling National
Forest Park
Only a day (or night) trip
away, 1902m Shikeng Kong
Mountain is the tallest peak in
the province and commands an
area surrounded by forestfuls of
pine trees as well as waterfalls,
rapids, and plenty of scenic
spots to pause for breath and
admire the natural splendour.
Foreigners are scarce here
(transportation for tourists
is limited to renting a car, in
truth), but this conservation
area is worth the endeavour for
a stunning hike alone: it’s as
far away from city bustle as a
traveller can wish to be.

36
 July 2016
World Traveller

Chimelong Safari
Park
With over 20,000 rare and
exotic animals to mesmerise,
it is little wonder Chimelong
garners the crown as the
largest wild animal theme
park in the world. Split
into two experiences, there
is the ‘Safari on Wheels’
which traverses the various
habitats, and also walk-
through tours. Visitors
can witness an impressive
collection of white tigers,
tons of protected species
like the giant salamander,
and a first-class giant panda
centre – arguably the main
attraction. The latter is
home to the only panda
triplets in the world and
living in a group, they can
happily interact. With the
Olympic Games in Brazil
on the sporting horizon,
Chimelong debuted a special
Primate Kingdom in April,
starring animals from the
Amazon river basin. A must-
visit venue for a full-day
Guangzhou family adventure.

Guangzhou Opera
House
The seductive contours of
this riverside cultural icon
represent a modern era of
aesthetic design, with the
‘twin boulders’ dreamt up
by none other than the late,
great ‘Queen of the Curve’
Zaha Hadid. One of three
national theatres in the city,
the Opera House will host
an array of international and
home-grown performances
throughout July, from
lighthearted puppet shows to
more-refined drama, ballet
and orchestral showings
– the Berlin Philharmonic
graces the venue on July 17,
for example. gzdjy.org

37
Destinations
Umbria

Learning
Curves
On holiday in Umbria’s idyllic undulating
hills, Matt Rudd is keen to broaden his kids’
horizons with art and culture. But can it
compete when the villa’s got a cool pool
and a great big telly?

38
 July 2016
World Traveller

39
Destinations
Umbria
I t’s Wednesday afternoon in Montone,
a hilltop village so beautiful it would
have an open-top tourist train circling
it 16 times a day if this were Tuscany. But it
isn’t. It’s Umbria, Tuscany’s quieter, sleepier,
gentler neighbour. And so it’s just us on the
terrace, having lunch, enjoying our own 1800
views of the valley below and the Apennines
in the distance.
And because it’s just us, we’re invited
into L’Antica Osteria’s family-run kitchen.
The chef is busy making eggs with truffle,
the first of four dishes on an outrageously
decadent truffle-themed menu. Next, his
grandmother comes in with a tray full of
ravioli. The second course. She spends five
hours every morning making the pasta, but
she’s still smiling. Even more amazingly,
my children are smiling, too. It’s taken nine
years of pain, misery and leaking in-flight
nappies to get here, but, for a moment at
least, we are at Stage Two.
Stage One is simply being able to travel
with kids, have them come back alive
and, on balance, for us all to have enjoyed
more of the trip than we hated. Stage
Two involves the Broadening of Horizons.
Because it’s all very well sitting by the pool
trying not to think about the horrific flight
home, but the whole point of travel is to
see different places and meet other people,
right? So this time, the plan was Umbria
rather than the Algarve. Queue-free,
horizon-broadening culture in the morning.
Proper nosh (no menù turistico) at lunch.
Then (I’m not completely mad) swimming
pool for the rest of the day. We would go
out with three children who like watching
TV, playing Minecraft and eating pizza, and
come back with three children versed in
cradles of civilisation, children who would
know their Giotto from their Cimabue,
children who would order cappelletti fatti
in casa al tartufo nero over spag bol. Ideally,
they would be the same children.
And it started well. With all the wisdom
gained through bitter experience in Stage
One, I’d booked a mid-morning flight. We’d
got through security without any tears or
embarrassing pram-folding failures. And
we’d made it all the way to the furthest gate
in the airport, down all those corridors and
past the point where you’re thinking maybe
40
Opening pages: View of
the Sibillini mountains from
Palazzo Borghese.
Clockwise from right: Views
from Monte Lino, Umbria; A
farmhouse near the Apennine
Mountains; A dirt road in
Umbria.
it would be easier just to walk to Umbria,
and boarded successfully.
Then, on the plane, I started explaining to
the children why we were going to Umbria
and how, on our last (child-free) visit,
we’d spent a whole day at the Basilica of
St Francis in Assisi. And I began reading
bits of guidebook to them, too. ‘Gubbio is
famous for its Eugubine Tables, which date
from 300BC to 100BC,’ I trilled with pure
Jackanory enthusiasm.
‘Boring,’ said the nine-year-old, who is
losing his battle with early-onset teenager.
The six-year-old and two-year-old were
even less polite - but it was only when we
reached the villa that I realised the full
scale of my mistake. It was simply too
beautiful. An eleventh-century converted
church with a pool. A terrace overlooking
vineyards and distant hills. Big tellies.
Why, I could hear the children thinking,
would you want to leave all this to look
around some hill towns? The breakfast
conversation went like this: ‘Right, we’re
going to Spello.’ ‘Please can we stay here,
dad?’ times three. ‘No. We are in Italy. We
owe the last 600 years of European art and
culture to this country. We’re not going to
sit by the beautiful, heated pool.’ Eventually,
I herded them into the car and we set off.
The moaning stopped after 15 minutes as
we drove down towards Perugia and then
left past Assisi. We parked at the bottom of
Spello and walked to the top of it. This is a
useful thing about hill-town culture. The
culture is on hills. So you get the moaning
hill climb out of the way early. You look at
the frescoes. You glide back down.
And Spello’s frescoes are world-famous, I
explained to deaf ears as we arrived at the
Baglioni Chapel. They were painted in 1501
by Pinturicchio, a midget who also did some
of the Sistine Chapel. For at least 30 seconds
they stared at the frescoes. You might spend
longer. Either way, it doesn’t matter. Beyond
the stunning frescoes, Spello is a charming
place to waste a morning. Its Fiat Uno-wide
streets lead, maze-like, through a series
of small squares with enough ice-cream
vendors and cafes to render the zigzag
climb painless.
I’d spent many internet hours tracking
down Spello’s ‘local’ restaurant. I wanted
 July 2016
World Traveller

Truffles. Guaranteed
to transform the
fussiest child into a
gastronome
somewhere off the beaten track where
no-one spoke English or ate spaghetti
bolognese. The answer was a place by
a roundabout on the less picturesque
outskirts of town.
Taking our seat among the chattering
families of Spello, I asked for the house
speciality. The waitress looked blank
and, more importantly, actually quite
offended that some tourists had found her
establishment. Perfect.
She returned some time later with five
plates of sliced beef in onion sauce. It was
the only disappointing food we ate all week.
More importantly, our brave climb to the
frescoes and our brave decline to the pork
meant we’d earned an afternoon by the pool.
Day two. Secret weapon: truffles.
The most delicious food in the world.
Guaranteed to transform the fussiest child
into a gastronome. Our villa manager knew
a guy who knew a guy who went truffle-
hunting. He was an electrician called
Andrea and he arrived early one morning
with his excitable trainee truffle dog. To the
kids, it was a giant treasure hunt. To me, it
was a potential retirement plan.

41
Destinations
Umbria

42

Opposite page, top to bottom:
Cascata delle Marmore;
Ferentillo in Terni, Umbria;
Mare with new born foal in the
early morning light. Inset: The
ancient town of Assisi.
Move to Umbria, buy dog, train dog, find
one-kilo truffle. By the end of the morning,
it had become clear that the retirement
plan was unviable. The best dogs cost
thousands and thousands of euros. They
take years to train and, even then, they
may never make a good snuffler. The jury
was still out on Andrea’s dog. While he was
excellent at finding the truffles, he proved
persistently unwilling to hand them over.
Who can blame him? He operated on a
‘one for you, one for me’ basis, which he
thought reasonable. For Andrea, like most
truffle-hunters, it was more of a hobby than
a career.
We left the electrician and his greedy dog
and drove up to Montone for a truffle feast.
No iPads, no complaining about foreign
food. I could almost feel the horizons
broadening as we ate. But my plan to visit
Montone’s museum - ‘It has silverwork and
vestments and paintings!’ - proved a step too
far, with the nine-year-old upset because a
thin cat with no tail was looking famished
and I refused to feed it truffles. We went
back to the villa for a swim.
Fiat Uno-wide streets
lead, maze-like,
through a series of
small squares
Day three. New resolve. ‘Today, children,
we are going to Gubbio. Remember the
Eugubine Tables?’ By now, it would be
reasonable to expect some progress. Child
A caught flicking through the coffee-table
book on Perugino, for example. Child B
asking, politely, for more fennel in the
risotto. But no. The Eugubine Tables were
a disaster. First, we couldn’t find them.
Then, when we did, the children were
unimpressed. ‘These stone tablets are by
far the most important documents of any
of the Osco-Umbrian group of languages,’ I
said. ‘Please stop climbing on them or I’ll put
you in this iron cage that was once used to
humiliate robbers.’
Secret weapon number two: market
day. I gave the children some euros and
released them into Gubbio’s street market.
July 2016
World Traveller
They came back with prawns on sticks, 50
lollipops and a toy gun. So I released them
again, this time with firmer guidance, and
they returned with cured meat in buns,
tomato bread and bananas for a picnic under
the trees.
After that, there was no nagging for a
premature return to the villa. We spent the
afternoon exploring Gubbio’s Old Town,
clambering up and down its wide stone
staircases, catching rays on the stunning
terraced square of the fourteenth-century
Palazzo dei Consoli, arguing about which
view of the valley below was the best.
I had saved Assisi – the best, the most
Stage Two-ish, the most fraught with risk
– until last, hoping that a week of gentle
assimilation would give us a chance of
enjoying the place, up to its neck in medieval
churches and those Giotto frescoes. By
the time we reached the basilica, we were
having a family-wide argument about
whether I could reasonably expect silence
in the car while trying to negotiate a
one-way system. Wife pointed out the
depiction of St Francis’s stigmata in her best
Horrible Histories manner. A monk shouted
‘Silenzio’. Everyone needed the loo. We left.
Assisi is the most touristy town in
Umbria. It has the coach parties, tourists
following umbrellas and endless trinket
shops. But you need only to step a couple
of streets off the main drag and it’s back to
being its peaceful, sleepy self. That’s where
we found lunch. Two alleys off the main
drag. It was just us, two old men and the
waitress. Children B and C had pizza. Child
A joined us with a shared rustic chicken
stew. I still think daily about just how good
the stew was.
I would like to finish with a little
conversation that took place on the return
flight home. ‘That was a great trip, Dad.’
‘What was your favourite bit?’ ‘It’s a close
call between the church in Spello and the
restaurant in Montone, although I’ve been
reading more about those Eugubine Tables
and I can now see why they’re so important.’
That conversation never happened. They
were too busy playing Minecraft. I was too
busy ordering a drink. A failure, then. But
I’m looking forward to trying again next
year, even if they’re not.
43
Destinations
Cuba

THE
TIME
IS
NOW
With Cuba having rekindled its relationship
with the US, the island is about to open up to
the world – and that could spell an end to its
unique character. Follow in the footsteps of
Obama and get there quick, says
Laura Goulden

44

T he best time to go to Cuba? As soon
as possible. The gradual loosening
of control on private businesses
means you can now travel in more comfort
than before, but the country’s new-found
chumminess with America shows this
tin-box time warp is heading for change.
Only recently, the two countries signed
an agreement for 20 flights a day between
Havana and the States. Everyone seems to be
rushing to see the place, including the first
US president to visit Cuba in almost 90 years.
Cuba is not your typical Caribbean island.
July 2016
World Traveller
It’s big, so don’t try to do it all in two weeks,
and be prepared for some long car journeys
– it’s really the only way to get around. Plan
ahead, ideally by at least three months. This
is no longer a buy-your-ticket-and-wing-it
destination. Prices are on the up, demand
is outstripping supply – backpackers have
been seen sleeping on the streets in towns
such as Trinidad – and taxis and private
transfers are already struggling to ship
everyone where they want to go. So don’t
expect everything to go seamlessly, but do
expect it to be worth the bother.
45
Destinations
Cuba
Day 1-3
HAVANA
You could spend a week in Cuba’s beautifully
shabby capital. You don’t have time for that,
but give yourself at least three nights. If you
don’t have a transfer laid on by your tour
operator, a taxi from Havana airport into
town takes half an hour and should cost
about 20CUC (USD20, the CUC is like for
like with the US dollar). The country has
two currencies, the Cuban convertible peso
(CUC) and the Cuban peso (CUP); tourists
need the former for everything except
street food and local buses. You can’t change
money before you go, so take clean, untorn
sterling or euros – not US dollars – to swap
in banks or cadecas (exchange booths).
You’ll need to keep plenty of cash on you:
ATMs are scarce outside the main cities and
cards are rarely accepted.
Most of Havana’s hotels are drab and
soulless, and couldn’t be less like the city
they inhabit. Give them a miss and borrow
a local’s place instead – specifically, the
art dealer Ydalgo Martinez’s luxurious
antiques-filled pad, Cañaveral House, 10
minutes from the old town.
Your first night out should encompass the
best of old Cuba, so book a couple of weeks
in advance to secure a table at a swish
paladar (a restaurant in someone’s home). At
La Guarida, you’ll dine on papaya lasagne in
a crumbling mansion. There’s a roof terrace
for after-dinner drinks, which is about as
much as you’ll manage tonight.
Jet lag will have you up early on day two,
so make the most of the cool and quiet by
heading straight into the old town (it’ll be
heaving after 11am), where trees soar out of
beautifully decayed rooftops. Don’t miss the
art-deco 1930s Bacardi building (go inside
– the interior is smothered in multicoloured
46
Opening pages: El Capitolio.
Right: Havana Vieja district.
marble) and the cheery blue-and-yellow
arches of Plaza Vieja.
Rest your legs in the afternoon with a
tour in a vintage Cadillac. Not all guides are
created equal: when booking one through
your hotel or tour operator, ask for someone
who specialises in history or architecture
and you’re likely to get more information for
your money – the well-known guides Juan
Carlos Toledo Martinez and Pedro Perez are
safe bets.
Tonight, it’s the turn of new Cuba at
Fabrica de Arte Cubano, a converted
warehouse in the up-and-coming Vedado
district. It’s a gallery by day and a music
venue by night, and the party won’t end
until well into the next day.
Save some time for getting lost – you
can do this on day three, when you’ve
got your bearings. This is a town full of
surprises, and you don’t generally find those
with your nose in a map. Use the Capitol
building and Plaza de la Revolucion as start
and end points and wind through gritty
Centro, the part of town where people
actually live.
Wind up day three watching the Cuban
National Ballet. Buy tickets as soon as you
arrive in town from the box office at the
Gran Teatro de la Habana (Paseo del Prado)
or the Teatro Nacional de Cuba (Plaza de la
Revolucion).
End your last night in Havana on the
Malecon, the esplanade where city meets
sea, with a daiquiri on the lawn at the
Hotel Nacional, where Frank Sinatra once
crooned and the mobsters Lucky Luciano
and Meyer Lansky hosted the 1946 Havana
Conference between the Cosa Nostra and
the US mafia.
 July 2016
World Traveller

47
Destinations
Cuba

Clockwise from left: Views

over Trinidad; Cuban flags;
Coloured buildings in Havana;
A vintage car in Cuba; Cycling
past Teatro Payret.

Day 4
Viñales
Your private transfer should arrive nice
and early, as you’ve only got time for 24
hours in the green land of Viñales. It’s
just a two-and-a-half hour drive from
Havana, but a pre-booked transfer is
best, as it will have air-con, a perk that
shouldn’t be underestimated. Car hire
is a gamble (by the time you get to the
south of the island, road signs will be
non-existent), taxis can be unreliable and
buses take up to twice as long.
Viñales is tobacco country and the
perfect antidote to busy Havana. Watch
oxen tugging ploughs and cigars being
rolled by hand; go, perhaps, for a hike
or a horse ride (horseridinginvinales.
com) and generally breathe out a little.
Sleep somewhere with rolling views,
such as Casa Villa Palmarito, which does
delicious farm-fresh dinners for USD6.

48

The Teatro Tomas
Terry was built at the
end of the nineteenth
century, when excess
wasn’t an issue
Day 5-7
TRiNiDAD
It’s a seven-hour drive from Viñales to
Trinidad, so brace yourself. En route you’ll
pass almost as many horses and carts as
cars, and plenty of posters splashed with
revolutionary slogans, such as Socialismo o
muerte. An hour before you reach Trinidad,
you’ll hit the seaside town of Cienfuegos.
Pause to nose around the Teatro Tomas
Terry, which was built at the end of the
nineteenth century when excess wasn’t an
issue. Once inside, marvel at the Carrara
marble, gold leaf, frescoes and beautifully
carved wooden seating.
Trinidad is Cuba’s best-preserved city and
you’ll need two nights. This pile of tutti-
frutti houses and fondant-fancy churches
was built from sugar money, and has
been kept in mint condition while Havana
crumbled. To fully absorb the old-town
atmosphere, book a couple of nights in a
July 2016
World Traveller
casa particular (a room in a private home):
the modern ranch-style La Casona, with
its pool and outdoor restaurant; or Hostal
Elda y Roberto, where rooms are set around
a courtyard and your hosts span three
generations of the same family.
Stop at the antiques-stuffed Museo
Romantico, in a mansion near Plaza Mayor,
to see what life was like as a sugar baron.
Generally, though, aimless wandering
is the thing to do here. Bad dinners are
commonplace, but even if you’re not staying,
eat the lobster at La Casona. Later, let a
local teach you to salsa on the steps at the
Casa de la Musica (near Plaza Mayor; it’s
loud and busy, so you won’t miss it).
Spend your second day on the lovely
sugary stretch of Playa Ancon (twenty
minutes away; USD12 in a taxi). You’ve been
in Cuba a week and deserve a beach day.
49
Destinations
Cuba

Day 8
CAMAGUEY
This stop breaks up another epic drive into
a three- to four-hour chunk. Camaguey
is bigger, less touristy and more lived-in
than Trinidad. The town planner’s brief
was primarily to confuse invading pirates,
which means you’ll get lost in Camaguey’s
tangle of streets, but you can explore safe
in the knowledge that, at the end of every
intriguing alleyway, you’ll emerge into
a grand Spanish square with the most
elaborate of churches.

50

Clockwise from left:
Cienfuegos Province; Sunrise
on the Atlantic Ocean coast;
Inside a government store;
Menu in Camaguey Province;
Man with strings of garlic.
Day 9-10
siErrA MAEstrA
If you’re making your own way around,
you’re going to need a 4x4 taxi today.
Realistically, you’ll probably persuade a
bloke in a Lada to take you as far as Bayamo,
the capital of hilly Granma province, then
you can switch to a Jeep from there. High
up in the Sierra Maestra mountains is
where Fidel Castro’s army lived while he
plotted the revolution. You can hike to his
jungle village: the hospital, radio station and
Castro’s hut, complete with escape hatch, all
remain intact.
You’re only allowed to explore with a
guide. Find yours at Villa Santo Domingo,
which will also be your home for the
evening. Skip dinner here; walk up the hill
and pay just a few dollars for a home-cooked
meal at Alexy’s Paladar instead.
Day 11-14
bArACoA
Cuba’s beaches are no secret, but the all-
inclusives that line the shores of Varadero
and Cayo Guillermo are very busy and not
very Cuban. Six hours from Granma, near
the island’s southern tip, Baracoa has the
Caribbean sands you came for, but instead
of an all-you-can-eat buffet, you get locals
offering you freshly caught lobster for
lunch. There’s only one place to stay on the
beach and that’s the sleepy, chalet-style
Villa Maguana.
You’ll need at least three nights here to
stretch out after all that driving, but also
to allow enough time for charming Baracoa
town, with its Son band sing-alongs and
cafes serving thick hot chocolate (they grow
cocoa down here). You’ll also want a day
in nearby Alejandro de Humboldt National
July 2016
World Traveller
Park, where there are waterfalls to jump
off and the offer of creole river shrimp at
what’s seemingly the only home for miles
(you’ll pass it on the way into the park).
Again, you’ll need a guide here – arrange
one through the hotel.
You’re flying back to Havana tomorrow
morning and you’ll need one more night in
the capital to allow enough of a cushion to
make sure you don’t miss your flight home
– and also to raise a last Cuba libre to a
country on the brink.
There are a host of historic hotels in which
to stay whilst in Cuba: Paradisus Varadero
Hotel, Blau Colonial Hotel, and the Nacional
De Cuba Hotel (in Havana), for example.
Explore the island’s array of luxury
hospitality options at dnatatravel.com
51
Destinations
Prague

52
 July 2016

Double
World Traveller

Bustling or tranquil? There’s two sides

to every story and the same applies to
Prague, which is a beauty either way,
discovers Adrian Tierney-Jones

CZeCH 53
Destinations
Prague

Opening page: The Dancing

House. Clockwise from left:
Charles Bridge; Historic
buildings; A Prague street
scene; Old Town Square, Cent
Bohemia.

I t’s a breezy morning in the Czech

capital as sunshine, a keen wind and a
blast of street-sounds come together in
their own composition. Sunlight pierces the
deep canyon of Panská Street in New Town,
There’s the rub. You’ve got Prague, and
you’ve got Prague. Just when the historic
city has you in its arms, along come hordes
of high-spirited weekenders – chattering,
list-ticking and camera-clicking. What’s
the wind delivering a chilly counterpoint. surprising is how the two manage
There’s a slap of car tyres on the to overlap. I can’t think of any post-
cobblestone road, a squeal of tram brakes Communist Euro-capital that so draws the
around a corner… Here, in its historical stag, hen and low-cost airline crowds, while
heart, the most beautiful and lovestruck managing to retain such fine-boned beauty.
city in Europe is singing a seductive song. I love its diverse architecture, and even find
A young woman, camera aloft, takes the odd splat of Communist Functionalism
a snap of a bank. Not any old bank, but a palate-refresher. I love the way it’s so easy
an Imperial-style building from the late to explore on foot, the way that it’s still a
nineteenth century, as artistic as it is place where people live, where they walk
architectural, all elegant curves and frills. their dogs. And I particularly love the city in
Gothic, Art Nouveau, Imperial, Baroque, autumn, when the leaves on the trees lining
Renaissance… The city is a canvas on which the river have turned the colour of fire,
many centuries have made their mark and every evening brings the prospect of
and laid their colours. Is it any wonder
both first-timers and veteran visitors are
head-over-heels in love with the place?
You can find
From Panská, in the warm air, I ambled unexpected beauty
towards the River Vltava, to Charles Bridge
– perhaps Prague’s most perfect postcard,
everywhere in Prague
with its loping old fairy-tale arches – and
gorging on helpings of dumplings and roast
on to the famous Powder Tower, the
meat in a timehonoured pub, helped down
fifteenth-century landmark with the thorny
by some Czech hops.
pinnacles… And there the spell was broken.
The real beauty of Prague is that, with
A waiting Bentley had an advert for a
a little steer, you can enjoy both sides –
tacky-sounding erotic show emblazoned
touristic and tranquil – easily, because
along one flank. The seductive slogan:
the two co-exist so closely it’s a cinch to
‘Falling in love is the only thing you risk.’
skip back and forth between them. I saw
Outside a nearby Thai massage parlour, a
the light on an evening out in the Nusle
man in an Aladdin outfit was handing out
district, south of the city centre. I was busy
leaflets. Opposite, as a couple smiled for a
lamenting the mass tourism to a friend,
selfie beside a chocolate shop, the owner
Evan Rail, who’d invited me to drinks
leapt out and photo-bombed their snap
in a bar called Zlý Casy. ‘You can find
before dragging them inside.
unexpected beauty everywhere in Prague
Things hit rock-bottom when I spotted
– even in the most touristy areas,’ he said,
two women in the window of a beauty salon,
with a sip of his ale.
their feet in a transparent tank of water, as
‘You can take that street instead of this
tiny fish nibbled.
one and you will always find something

54

marvellous,’ he said. ‘You might be
wandering around the market at Havelská,
say, drowning in souvenirs and junk, but
turn a sidestreet and you’re in the tiny
lane V Kotcích, full of worn cobbles and
blissfully free of tourists.’
Before leaving, he suggested I check out U
Pinkasů, a locals’ bar in New Town. There,
amid the bustle and noise of Prague citizens,
I got chatting with expat singer-songwriter
Jamie Marshall.
He echoed Evan: ‘There’s a surprise
around many a corner. I’ve lived here 10
years now and still see new features in
buildings that I’ve walked past dozens of
times.’ As I crossed the river to Lesser Town
next day, sightseers surged around me like
a crowd leaving a football match, but, sure
enough, the moment I turned off into a side
street the hubbub faded away. As I walked
past the peculiarly named Church of Our
Lady under the Chain (apparently named
after a chain that used to span the Vltava),
it was quiet enough for me to hear a woman
within singing a classical aria to herself.
I stopped and listened while watching a
Boxer dog investigate a small pile of loose
July 2016
World Traveller
stones. It was so engrossed that whenit
looked up it was clearly flummoxed that its
owner had disappeared. A sharp whistle
sent the dog running and brought me out of
my reverie. On I trotted, too.
The day after, again I hit pay dirt by just
following my nose. Prague is reputedly
full of ghosts – and by chance I found
four of them. Outside the Hotel Yasmin
on Politických Vězňů (Political Prisoners
Street), a quartet of brass plaques lies
embedded in the pavement. Each bears a
name and tells the story of the person: they
recall members of the Czech Resistance,
all from the same family, who lived where
Hotel Yasmin now welcomes guests
and who’d been deported to Terezín
concentration camp in 1941 (similar plaques
dotted about the city recall other victims). I
stood and pondered: Kity Kopecká, Zuzana
Kopecká, Pavel A Kopecký and Mariana
Kopecká – four more ghostly presences in
the city.
With their names still resonant in my
mind, I strolled across Wenceslas Square
and dived into an intriguing passageway:
Lucerna Palace turned out to be a covered
55
Destinations
Prague

56

Left: A morning sunrise view of
Charles Bridge.
Art Nouveau arcade of beguiling shops
and restaurants. What really caught my
eye, though, in the marbled atrium, was a
sculpture of King Wenceslas on an upside-
down horse, a complete reversal of the
famous one on the Square outside. The
creator of this satirical artwork, David
Cerný, has never explained the actual
meaning, but many have seen it as a political
comment on the former (controversial)
president Václav Klaus.
As I immersed myself in hidden Prague, I
began to relish the sense of escape, raking
myself back from the bustling crowds on a
journey without maps, my thoughts my sole
travel companion.
Lunch found me at the Strahev brewpub,
close to Prague Castle. Hoping for some
insider information for a contemplative
stroll, I asked the barman if there were
any quiet places nearby. His answer was
succinct and decisive: ‘Petřín’. He meant the
wooded hill of Petřín, with its green slopes
I relished the sense of
escape, my thoughts
my sole companion
rolling down to the river from just below
the pub. I followed his advice. Petřín is a
peaceful place, yet it is a vital link to the
city. Compared with the hive-like character
that enveloped nearby St Vitus Cathedral,
its leaf-strewn paths gave me a sense of
individuality and liberty. Not that I was
alone – as I walked through the gardens, a
young couple were embracing passionately
on a bench.
With just a day left, I took a Metro train
to the northern Prague suburb of Kobylisy.
I had never visited this quarter of the city
before. Again, it was a whim, inspired by
a mention in a leaflet of Dáblice Grove – a
site of remembrance with woodland walks.
A short bus journey to the Grove revealed
trees burning in autumnal russet and
tangerine, while birdsong trilled from the
branches above.
The city was a distant background hum,
but not enough to disturb the soothing
calmness of the place. I paid my respects at
a former Austro-Hungarian army shooting
range, where the Germans had massacred
July 2016
World Traveller
hundreds after the assassination of the
high-ranking Nazi Reinhard Heydrich, one
of the key architects of the Holocaust. Then
I sat on a bench, watching a chaffinch swoop
alongside a falling leaf – it looked as if it
was trying to catch it. Runners passed at
regular intervals, while a noisy crocodile of
children out on a nature walk emerged from
one of the many paths that criss-crossed
the woodland.
But otherwise, it was just peace, perfect
peace, in this corner of hidden Prague,
randomly encountered. Opposite Kobylisy
Metro station, I noticed a small Farmers’
Market, where smoked meat, hot drinks,
organic vegetables, cheese, bread and other
assortments were being sold from mock-
rustic wooden cabins. I sat at a table and
nursed an espresso, surveying the serene
scene as a stout mutt sat patiently in front
of one of the stallholders, hoping for a treat.
The man threw down a slice of salami.
Elsewhere, office workers on their lunch
break, mums with kids, and those with time
to burn drifted about. Back in the city centre
with some hours to kill, I hung around
Republic Square, where it seemed that the
two different worlds of Prague occupied the
same space – one clinically commercial, the
other more traditional.
A young Segway tour operator, clientless
and bored, revolved around his collection
of machines, while directly opposite, the
regular market was in full swing. The
ringing chime of a blacksmith’s hammer on
an anvil sounded like a regular peal of bells.
I stood at a stand, thinking about the
pleasures of happening upon hidden Prague:
the discovery of the nameplates in the
pavement, the small Farmers’ Market and
the calm of both Petřín and Dáblice Grove.
Somehow, finding them had enabled me to
enjoy the more commonplace sites: Charles
Bridge and the Castle – and not mind the
crowds. I knew there was a lot more to be
discovered, which would take time. I would
have to come back again and again. No
hardship there.
Come to think of it, there was still an
hour or so to go before I had to head for the
airport. I finished my hops and, in the thick
of the tourists, went off looking for what
lay under their noses, or round the corner:
wonderful, whimsical, hidden Prague.
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Weekends
Two days is still plenty of time to travel

61 Oman Special:
Where to stay, what to see, and what to do
in the spectacular Sultanate

76 One Weekend For All: Rome

78 Great Escapes: A Splash of Summer
80 Weekend at the Wild Wadi
82 48-Hour Foodie: Vienna
83 Staycations
90 Reader Offers

59

where
to stay
Oman is home to some of the
most uniquely wonderful hotels
in the Middle East. Whether
travelling as a family or as
a couple seeking a romantic
escape, the Sultanate has a
wealth of great options
July 2016
World Traveller Promotion
O man’s temperate mountains and
verdant Salalah region, such a
beautiful anomaly in the GCC
during Khareef season (from the end of this
month until early September), have long made
Oman a choice escape during the hot summer
months. Each will welcome an Anantara
resort in the coming months, with Anantara
Al Jabal Al Akhdar the first to open 2,000
metres above sea level on the rim of a grand
canyon. It will be the highest five-star resort
in the Middle East, and offer guests unrivalled
and spectacular vistas, the choice of private
pool villas, a spa with hammam, three
restaurants, kids’ and teens’ clubs and – to
really take advantage of its lofty position – a
star-gazing platform. It promises to be a very
special and spectacular resort.
Soon after, Salalah welcomes the eagerly
awaited al Baleed resort salalah by
anantara. Billed as the first luxury villa
resort of its kind in Salalah, a private
250m beach is one of the main pulls here.
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3 must-dine in
restaurants
If you’re staying in Muscat it
would be remiss to not have
at least one dinner at the
restaurant within The
Chedi Muscat. Here, amidst
impeccably stylish surrounds,
four open kitchens serve up
contemporary, Asian, Middle
Eastern and Indian flavours, so
you’ll never be short of options.
However, Muscat is also one
of those places where the best
dining options aren’t confined
to hotels. That’s true of Bait al
Luban, where you can enjoy
good value and well prepared
traditional Omani fare. And
of slider station, which is a
great family option for its never-
fail burgers.
62
Al Baleed has 96 villas, 88 of which boast
private pools, complementing 40 garden- or
sea-facing rooms. The spa will feature the
region’s first hammam and razul treatment
rooms, while kids’ and teens’ clubs, three
restaurants, myriad watersports and a
diving centre are among the highlights. The
resort is ideally located to aid those keen to
immerse themselves in Oman’s rich heritage
– within walking distance of Al Baleed
Archaeological Park visitors can explore a
UNESCO World Heritage Site of citadel and
grand mosque ruins.
Another new opening – this one perfect for
shoppers – is Grand Millennium Muscat.
It offers its guests direct access to Muscat
Grand Mall and the choice of a spacious and
luxuriously appointed room, suite or whole
apartment (perfect for when you return
with a few too many shopping bags). There’s
even an in-house spa to remedy those aching
feet, while an Executive Lounge serves up
complimentary treats throughout the day to
partner panoramic views of the city.
While those openings generate the buzz,
a perennial favourite remains as good as
ever – the Chedi Muscat. Its beachside
location, opulent design, acres of palm-
lined gardens and tranquil ponds lends
an indulgent air to this low-rise complex,
Opening page: The Chedi
Muscat. Right: Shangri-La Bar
al Jissah Resort & Spa. Next
page, clockwise from top left:
Grand Millennium Muscat;
Grand Hyatt Muscat; Al
Bustan Palace, A Ritz-Carlton
Hotel: Hilton Salalah Resort.
never more charming than when candlelit at
night. Ever impressive facilities here include
two swimming pools, one adults’ only and
the other a huge 103-metres, and what is the
largest, and best, spa in Muscat. Don’t leave
without sampling at least one treatment.
the Grand hyatt Muscat is also
popular, not least due to the lazy river that
winds its way around the beachside pool
area. Direct access to the beach and an
additional toddlers’ splash pool makes this
luxury abode a top tip for families.
Of all the hotel’s many splendid rooms
and suites, we recommend booking one
belonging to the Grand Club. Not only will
this afford you fine views of the Hajar
Mountains, but you’ll also gain all-day
access to the Grand Club Lounge, where
complimentary evening cocktails and hors
d’oeuvres are served. It’s a fine way to
prepare for dinner at Tuscany, the hotel’s
award-winning Italian restaurant.
The decadent al Bustan Palace, a
ritz Carlton hotel, is the grand dame
of Muscat hotels – you’ll know this from
the moment you step into the breathtaking
domed lobby. Surrounded by dramatic
mountains, the extensive gardens here
are dotted with relaxation pools and the
pièce de résistance comes in the form of
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63
Weekends
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the large infinity pool, complete with palm
tree islands. The spa here, operated by
Six Senses, is a real gem, while all rooms
and suites come with a view – either of the
mountains, sea, lagoon, or the perfectly-
manicured gardens.
Set against a stunning mountain backdrop
with the Gulf of Oman basking beside,
shangri-La Bar al Jissah resort and
spa is an Omani hospitality landmark.
Located fifteen minutes from Muscat,
there are three properties within this hotel
complex and each has its own unique charm,
whilst delivering high levels of luxury. Al
Waha is the oasis: a dedicated family hotel
with Dhofari architecture, child-friendly
amenities, multiple swimming pools and
64
swaying date palms. Al Bandar, meanwhile,
is inspired by a Muscat town of old, replete
with an array of sea-facing guest rooms
that house ornate balconies. The jewel in
the crown, though, is undoubtedly Al Husn,
an adults-only ‘palace’, where artwork and
opulence abounds. Together, the trio (along
with a plethora of dining options) ensure
there is a fascinating bay-side property to
meet the needs of every guest.
Back in Salalah, the beautiful salalah
rotana resort is a renowned summer
hotspot. Low-rise and carved from desert
rock, the Oman-inspired rooms and
suites here are dotted about lagoons and
manmade canals, adding to the overall
feeling of serenity. Visiting parents will
love the option of the 2-Bedroom Family
Suite, located mere steps from the pool,
while kids will marvel at the activity-rich
Flipper’s Kids’ Club. Meanwhile, couples
heading here outside of Khareef season can
indulge themselves by booking a memorable
romantic dinner – the menu is customised
to suit your tastes, before each delectable
dish is served to you on the beach, the
waves lapping gently at the shore, by your
own private butler.
Also here, aside the ocean and affording
fine views of the Dhofar mountain range,
is the brilliant hilton salalah resort.
Based on traditional Omani architecture,
the resort offers abundant amenities for
all to enjoy, from scuba divers keen to seek
Strategically located in the vicinity of Muscat Grand Mall, Grand Millennium Muscat Hotel is bound to take you to the
HIGHPOINT OF LIFE. Experience the zenith of delight in luxuriously designed rooms and spacious suites. Treat your
appetite and refresh your mind at our Seafood Restaurant and rejuvenating spa. Apart, when it comes to business, our
well-appointed conference rooms redefine your success with pleasure. Discover the height of luxury with the abundance of
heartwarming amenities. Step in.
Weekends
Oman

Clockwise from right:

Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar;
Salalah Rotana Resort;
Shangri-La Bar al Jissah
Resort & Spa; Al Baleed Resort
Salalah by Anantara.

out underwater treasures, to gastronomes

looking for a weekend of indulgence. It’s
also a great place for all the family, with a
wonderful pool, Kids’ Club and playground
– kids will particularly like the twisting
slide which slips into the pool. Our tip
for a night to remember here starts with
dinner at Palm Grove, where you’ll share
a flavoursome chateaubriand, before
enjoying post-dinner drinks at Whispers
and the last hours of your evening sat on
the balcony of your room, soaking up the

The Chedi Muscat is

a perennial favourite
and remains as good
as its always been
sound of the waves rolling in below. If you
love luxury but want to experience a more
isolated Oman, the Desert Nights Camp
could be the answer. It’s set in the Wahiba
Sands, with 30 gorgeous Bedouin-style tents
offering all the comfort you could wish for
under linen canopies. Whilst there you can
take a camel ride, whiten your knuckles
while dune bashing, or unwind to the gentle
rhythms of Arabian oud music.
For somewhere else a little different, head
to Ras Al Hadd. Up to 20,000 turtles lay
their eggs on the beach at Ras al-Jinz here
each year, and by way of conserving this
fascinating nesting process a reserve was
built back in 1996. ras al Jinz turtle
reserve now accommodates visitors
keen to witness the wonderful sight for
themselves, with functional, well-equipped
rooms located in the Reserve’s main
building, and a further 12 permanent, air-
conditioned tents located closer to the sea.
Organised evening and dawn tours take
guests to watch the turtles, which include
the endangered Green Turtle.
Lastly, no guide to accommodation
in Oman would be complete without
mentioning six senses Zighy Bay, which
you’ll find nestled away on the beautiful
Musandam Peninsula, It’s a village-style
complex of stone villas, each with private
pools, flanked by mountains on one side and
a glorious stretch of nearly always empty
beach on the other. James Bond wannabes
will be intrigued to learn that you can enter
the resort via paraglide or speedboat, if the
drive up and over the mountain isn’t for you.

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Oman

Clockwise from right.

Crowne Plaza Muscat;
Holiday Inn Muscat Al Seeb;
InterContinental Muscat;
Crowne Plaza Muscat;
Holiday Inn Muscat Al Seeb;
InterContinental Muscat.

soMethING
For eVeryoNe
InterContinental Hotels Group offers a whole
range of superb hotels across Oman, making it
easy to find somewhere to suit your specific needs.
The only difficulty arises from having to decide
between them all. To help you on your way, here’s
our favourite three…

W hen exploring new horizons,

peace of mind can be invoked
with a familiar name. The
holiday Inn Muscat al seeb is one
such comforting thought; it’s a family-
friendly hotel in a convenient location (just
three minutes from City Center, one of
Oman’s main shopping malls), with all of
the signature brand touches and attentive
service that makes for a pleasant stay.
Rooms are contemporary yet cosy – the
Two Bedroom Apartment caught our eye
with its chocolate-box tones and elements
of comfort – and the hotel is replete with
a host of amenities. An extensive on-site
health and fitness centre will please those
keen to keep fit while away, and there’s an
outdoor pool in which to take a cooling dip
(or clock up the lengths).
Omede and Halwa Lounge, meanwhile,
form the restaurant/café tandem where
guests can embark on a culinary journey or
simply sip on a frothy coffee while working
on their list of Muscat must-dos. This is a
hotel that’s ideal for a short break.
A family-friendly spot that’s less than
a 15-minute walk from the brilliant Royal
Opera House – and the same driving time
from Muscat International Airport – the
InterContinental Muscat is one of the
city’s most popular hotels. This palm-
fringed resort lies nestled between Al Hajar
Mountains and the Sultanate’s gorgeous
coastline, guaranteeing memorable views
no matter which side of the hotel you stay
on. Lose yourself in the 35-acres of lush
gardens and you’ll be sure to come across
the Palm Beach Club, where two swimming
pools, floodlit tennis courts and a fully-
equipped gym make it ideal for anyone
seeking an active stay. If, on the other hand,
it’s relaxation you’re after, private access
to Muscat’s favourite stretch of seafront
is perfect for a day of sun worship while
the first-class spa has a great selection of
pampering treatments on offer. And don’t
worry about the little ones, they’ll be kept
entertained in the children’s playground
and games room.
The ever-popular Trader-Vic’s is a
great choice when it comes to dining,
with Hawaiian, Tahitian and Polynesian
dishes on the menu or, if you fancy eating
al fresco, head to Tomato for an array
of Mediterranean options. Don’t miss
the legendary breakfasts in Musandam
Café and head to lively Al Ghazal in the
evening for all the comforts of a traditional
English tavern. Big on amenities, the
Intercontinental Muscat makes for a
fantastic family-friendly escape.
Meanwhile, from its unique vantage point
atop a cliff from where it looks over the
glistening Gulf of Oman, Crowne Plaza

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Muscat stands proud as one of the city’s

most beloved hotels. Just 20-minutes drive
from Muscat International Airport, and
only ten minutes from the historic port of
Muttrah and its famous souk, where you can
haggle for souvenirs like frankincense and
the traditional Omani khanjar, this is the
perfect base from which to enjoy a weekend
to remember.
Not only is the hotel home to a super-sized
pool, set within 10 acres of lush landscaped
gardens, but it also boasts its own stretch
of private beach – perfect for relaxing – and
a covered children’s paddling pool and play
area, making it ideal for visiting families
who’ll also love the hotel’s well-appointed
Family Rooms.
Dining wise, the hotel’s abundant offering
means you won’t have to venture beyond
its welcoming confines to enjoy fine fare.
Highlights include Shiraz, Oman’s only
Persian restaurant where authenticity runs
from the Persian chefs right through to the
delectable dishes. Come Prima is where you
can indulge in perfectly prepared Italian
fare, from hearty pasta dishes through to
creamy, flavoursome risottos, while for a
side helping of fabulous mountain and sea
views with your main course, book dinner
at The Edge. The perfect way to a round off
a wonderful stay in magical Muscat.

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70
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World Traveller Promotion

what
to Do
Oman is abundant with natural
resources, culture and heritage.
Immerse yourself in the country’s
diverse offerings during your stay

T here is ample to entertain you

in Muscat – much of it based in
the great outdoors – but every
trip here should include time spent at the
royal opera house Muscat. A true
icon of the country and the GCC’s home
of musical arts and culture, a whole host
of incredible events are staged here, from
operatic performances of global renown
to ballet, musicals, jazz and all. There’s
also an emphasis placed on education, and
outside of performances members of the
local community are invited to scheduled
events to learn of the important role that
the arts, music and culture plays in their
lives. Before the end of this year The Royal
Opera House Muscat will play host to an
operatic performance of Romeo and Juliet
by Charles Gounod, performed by Opéra de
Monte-Carlo, Richard Wagner’s Lohengrin,
Mozart’s Don Giovanni, performed by Opéra
de Lyon, and Anna Karenina, performed by
the Elfman Ballet of St. Petersburg.

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A trip to the Sultan Qaboos
Grand Mosque is a must for its
design magnificence. Constructed
using 300,000 tonnes of Indian sandstone,
the stunning architecture will leave you
mesmerised from the minute you lay eyes
on it. The main prayer hall holds 6,500
worshippers, while an eight-tonne chandelier
glittering with 24-carat gold lights the space.
Its magnificent central dome rises 50m into
the sky, with floors that don a hand woven
21-tonne carpet – the second largest in the
world. Tick off this landmark with a guided
Gulf Ventures tour (gulfventures.com, +971
4 404 5880).
With Oman being one of the most popular
diving destinations in the region – it offers
diverse marine life, islands, bays and caves
- it is definitely worth spending a day diving
in areas around the capital such as al
Khayran, al Fahil Island, Dimaniyat
Islands, al Makbara Bay (old Muscat),
in addition to al Jissah beach. Each of
these contains multiple dive sites, each with
a distinct environment.
Still in the water, Gulf Ventures offers
dolphin and whale watching half-day city
tours, while for windsurfing, don’t look
past Masirah Island where waves often
measure five to six feet.
The country’s varied terrain makes it ideal
for mountain biking. Meander backcountry
trails and take in the stunning landscape
as you ride through wadis and rocky
grounds. snake Canyon is a great place
for climbers: it’s a narrow gorge cutting
through the steep Hajar Mountains, with
some steep inclines and jumping necessary;
book a guide to help you navigate this one
(alternatively, high wire across it using one
of the many zip lines).
Those who enjoy caving can hotfoot to
al hoota Cave, a two million-year-old
space at the foot of the Hajar Mountains
accessed by train where you will find
brightly lit caverns, rock formations and an
awe-inspiring underground lake. You can
also visit Majlis al Jinn Cave or Salma
Plateau, one of the largest underground
72
Previous page: The Royal
Opera House Muscat.
Right: An Omani surveys the
country’s mountainous region.
Next page, clockwise from top
left: Tomb of Bibi Maryam at
Qalhat; Snorkelling above a
turtle; Sultan Qaboos Grand
Mosque; An Omani relaxes;
Dhofar region during Khareef
season; An oryx.
caves in the world. Access to the 50-million-
year-old cave is tough – you trek for five
hours through rugged terrain then descend
via rope – but it’s worth it.
If that all sounds a bit too active for
your taste, how about a leisurely round of
golf? The 18-hole, PGA-certified course at
Muscat hills Golf & Country Club is
backed by views of the Hajar Mountains.
A tough 18th hole here – dotted with
bunkers and flanked on the right by water
– means you’ll be in need of a drink by
the time you pull up a chair in the 19th.
Running adjacent to Oman’s coastline, the
testing championship links-style course at
Almouj Golf is the work of the legendary
Greg Norman. It’s a course peppered with
bunkers, natural dunes and water hazards
you’ll have to avoid to score well, but such
is the abundant beauty of your surrounds –
mountains, ocean, beach – you won’t mind
the odd bogey.
Oman is home to a plethora of natural
and ancient wonders, so sightseeing is an
absolute must. tawi ateer sinkhole is
on such natural wonder: a 975,000 cubic
metre sinkhole in Dhofar, the views it offers
are astonishing – just be careful when you
lean over to see the blue water lying at
the bottom. Beat the heat and cool down
with a dip in ath thawarah hot springs
that gush all year round. Gulf Ventures
offers half-day tours to wadi ad Dayqah,
where you can admire around 120 scenic
wadis that flow year-round. You can also
discover the al Dakhiliya region, and
Fanja, located 25km away from Muscat,
boasting natural landscapes and cultural
heritage. Civilisation here dates back to
5,000 years ago, and views on offer are a
mix of traditional houses, towers, forts,
castles, and recently built landmarks. The
tour includes a visit to the ancient fort of
Nakhal, followed by hot springs and a trip
to areas boasting some of the best dates
grown in the country.
Fort sightseeing should be part of the
itinerary too. Pack in a visit to the Nizwa
Fort built in the mid seventeenth-century.
 July 2016
World Traveller Promotion

3 must-take tours
See the best of Muscat via Gulf
Ventures’ half-day tour, which
takes in the Grand Mosque, Bait
al Zubair Museum, Mutrah Souq
and the official residence of His
Majesty Sultan Qaboos. You
can swim in fresh water pools
on a 45-minute trek through
the beautiful Wadi Shab – it’s
flanked by aquamarine pools
and waterfalls – as part of Gulf
Ventures’ full-day tour from
Muscat. Or, if time allows, take
two days to take in everything
from the green jewel that is
Jabal Akhdar, to the red and
white dunes of Wahiba Sands
and Oman’s only surviving
dhow factory as part of Gulf
Ventures’ overnight tour, which
also includes a stay at the Sur
Beach Hotel (gulfventures.com,
+971 4 404 5880).

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It is one of the country’s oldest, nestled

in the A’Dakhiliyah region, and took 12
years to construct. Its shape is unusual in
that it’s round and there are seven wells.
The fort was once occupied by Sultan Bin
Saif Al Y’aribi, the imam responsible for
driving the Portuguese out of Oman. Not
far off is the Bahle Fort, which houses a
souq and mosque. This landmark is a listed
World Heritage Site having been built in
third millennium BC. Over in Al Batinah
region, al hazm Castle is an Islamic
design masterpiece, as its ceiling is entirely
supported by columns. It would have
made a superb defensive stronghold, with
three-metre thick walls numerous cannon
openings and mammoth wooden doors.
Oman has long been hailed for its
frankincense trade and apart from
trailing the Frankincense route
you can discover the manufacturing
process by stopping in at the aptly named
Frankincense Land Museum. Set at the
crossroads of an ancient traderoute, the
Bat tombs also make for a fascinating
excursion. Dating back to the third century
BC and located east of Ibri, they comprise
a collection of graves built in various styles
denoting how many bodies were buried
there. The most notable is the quirky
beehive structure, which housed between
two to five tombs.
The ruined Bronze Age city of Qalhat
was Oman’s first capital before the advent of
Islam, and here you can now spot remains almost Mediterranean climate is what it’s
including Bibi Mariam’s shrine, built best know for: temperatures can drop to
to honour a woman thought to have built a below zero Celsius during the winter and
mosque and possibly been the governor of snow is not unheard of, although it warms
Qalhat during King Hormuz’s reign. History up to around 22 degrees come summertime.
buffs can tour the lush valleys, villages, and Covering an area of 220sq.km. the acacia
prairies planted with wheat on the way to woodland at al saleel National Park in
Jabal hareem Fossils, located 1,600m the Sharqiyah Region of Oman provides
above sea level in Wilayt Khasab. Fossil a welcome habitat for gazelles, Gordon’s
marine life showcasing fish and shells dates wildcat and wolves, as well as birds. If you
back to more than 250 million years ago, can slip in time for the oman Botanic
when the region was once underwater. Gardens, do so to view the country’s 1,200-
Dhofar’s Khawr ruri, a World plus species of plants, 80 of which cannot be
Heritage-listed lagoon that contains found anywhere else in the world.
prehistoric ruins and a port often referred A visit to Salalah during Khareef season
to in ancient Greek and Arabic texts comes (from the end of this month until early
in highly recommended too. The nearby September) is something every GCC
Khawr Al Baleed is also listed due to its resident should undertake. This area
archaeological, historical and natural of Oman catches the tail end of India’s
significance. monsoons, which makes for lush greenery
Jabal shams (Sun Mountain) boasts and turns the city into a haven for wildlife
the Arabian Peninsula’s highest peak, and nature, with mammals such as the
standing 3,004m above sea level. It was Arabian leopard, hyenas, gazelles, and birds
given its name because its height makes it including flamingos and storks, amongst
the first and last place to see the sun each many others that come out to play. It also
day. an Nakhr Balcony, a deep ravine averages a beautiful 26 degrees. Visit
that divides two parts of the mountain, Salalah this month and you’ll be there for
makes for one of the most spectacular the salalah tourism Festival, which
vistas you’ll have the pleasure of witnessing highlights Oman’s national heritage. Tuck
in Oman. Guesthouses are conveniently into local delights, listen to music, and
dotted around the mountain for those who watch traditional performances.
don’t want to climb it in one go. Another Lastly, July is also peak time to turtle
stunning natural wonder accessible by 4x4 watch at ras al Jinz. Observe the magical
is al Jabal al akhdar (Green Mountain). spectacle of females coming ashore and
Though smaller than Jabal Shams, it laying their eggs at night. You can stay over
measures in at 2,980m above the sea, its here, too (see page 66).

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3 must see icons

the royal opera house
Muscat is a spectacular
building, both inside and out,
and well worth seeing even
outside of performances. Muscat
is also home to the architectural
wonder that’s Sultan Qaboos
Grand Mosque. Inside it’s
every bit as majestic; home
to the world’s second largest
woven carpet – all of 21 tonnes –
and an eight-tonne chandelier lit
by 24-carat gold lights. Salalah
during Khareef season (now ‘til
September) has to be seen for
the fact that it’s such an anomaly
within the GCC region. You’ll find
verdant hills alive with wildlife.

75
Weekends
Rome For All...
One Weekend
For All In...
ROME
With a name like The Eternal City,
Italy’s capital has great expectations
to deliver endless memories. It does so
resoundingly, with opportunities to awe
visitors of all ages
The romantic one
Villa Borghese is the biggest
park in central Rome, and with
its stature comes a pocketful
of romantic moments, from
the splendid boating lake upon
which to row-around with your
beloved, to the surrounding
views of lush pines and pretty
promenades along which to
stroll. For a sweet treat, you’ll
discover Gelateria del Teatro
situated in the romantic square
of Via dei Coronari. With
bold fresh ice cream flavours
such as rosemary, honey,
lemon, and Sicilian almond, this
haven of melt-in-the-mouth is
open beyond midnight, and the
picture perfect locale will please
your sweetheart. Meanwhile,
the magnificent Baroque-
influenced Piazza Navona
strikes a romantic chord, with
its fountains, Bernini and
Borromini crafted masterpieces,
and a cluster of cafes from
which to watch the world go by.
For a city built on seven hills,
there are many vantages from
which to witness a stunning
sunset, though the Gianicolo
atop Janiculum Hill gets
kudos for its canoodling
conduciveness. Finally, tucked
behind Piazza Pietro d’Illiria
is the symmetrical Garden of
Oranges where love – and at
the right time of year, a zesty
citrus scent – is in the air.
76
Clockwise from left: The
Colosseum at night; Saint
Peter’s Basilica (and inside its
dome); Roman Forum; Piazza
di Spagna
The family-friendly one
Believe it or not, the best new
addition to grown-up Rome’s
array of child-friendly details
is within a luxury hotel. The
Rome Cavalieri, within the
Waldorf Astoria portfolio, has
an action-packed new IT Club,
that runs until September 30.
Art workshops, radio-controlled
car racing, a video game party,
Ferrari F1 simulator, and
Nutella Chocolate Bar are just
a handful of the activities that
make up the League of Young
Cavaliers summer programme.
Little ones aged 4-12 won’t
want to leave the hotel (which
was already famed for its kid
friendly approach, Children’s
Corner, and extensive park).
When coaxed into the city-
proper, the mucky pups will
doubtless find a way to get
messy, so why not endorse the
chaos with pizza making at a
local trattoria and instructed by
a chef? It is part of a tour that
takes in Campo dei Fiori, a
Roman market where the best
local produce can be sampled.
Once their enthusiam for ruins
begins to wane, head to Isola
Tiberina on the Tiber River for
L’Isola Del Cinema 2016.
Taking place until September,
the film-fest shows movies in
open-air cinema Sala Visconti
on the island, and also within
the CineLab in Trastevere.

Did You
Know?
• Italy is a nation famed for
its cuisine, but it wasn’t until
last month that one of the
country’s eateries finally
secured the crown in the
‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’
list. Osteria Francescana
dethroned revered Spanish
restaurant El Celler De Can
Roca thanks to Chef Massimo
Bottura, who ‘plays with
Italian culinary standards –
reinventing, subverting and
improving.’ One wrinkle:
it’s located in Modena, but
that’s only a three-hour zip
from Rome on the Trenitalia
Eurostar (and, as per the
culinary plaudits, is well worth
the train journey)
The adventurous one
Travelling with a brash
companion, who seems a little
too sure of themself? Dare them
to meet the Bocca della Verità
and put their money where
their mouth is. The Mouth
of Truth, in the Church of
Santa Maria, is a statue with
a macabre, centuries-old legend:
the relic has a flowing mane,
piercing eyes and gaping jaw
into which the accused inserts
a hand as a trial of honesty. Fail
the test, and rumour has it that
the liar’s hand will be chomped
clean off...
Those looking to channel
their inner Maximus will be
thrilled to unleash hell at the
Roman Gladiator School.
The two-hour lesson, conducted
by the Historic Group of Rome,
takes place not far from the
Colosseum, and guests get to
don traditional clothing and use
authentic weapons. After, rather
than galloping around Rome on
a chariot, a more modern way
to raise the adrenaline is to
rent a scooter and zip through
traffic (an adventure in its own
right). Round off the weekend
with a heart-pumping climb to
the top of St. Peter’s Basilica
in Vatican City. The 537 steps
get really narrow and you’ll be
in single file, but stunning views
make vertigo worth defeating.
July 2016
World Traveller
Ask A
Local
“Discover the city’s authentic
soul by starting with a visit
to Villa Farnesina, to see its
impressive frescoes by Raphael
Sanzio. Walk between Via
della Lungara and scenic Colle
Gianicolo for a break in the
Botanical Garden Museum,
then climb the hill to encounter
the church of San Pietro in
Montorio and Bramante’s
Tempietto (with its astonishing
artistic-treasures). Be sure to
find Fontana dell’Acqua Paola
for breathtaking views, then
finish with sunset at Pincio Hill,
sipping an ‘Italian Aperitivo’ at
Hotel de Russie, a calm oasis in
the heart of Rome.”
- Sebastiano Lombardi
The restful one
In a city known for its
abundance of ancient ruins,
it can be hard to picture what
they looked like in all their
pomp and majesty. Enter,
Palazzo Valentini. It is a fresh
take on relaxing sightseeing-
amble, where the the sixteenth
century meets the twenty-first:
a stunning laser show and
multimedia museum brings to
life the architectural structures,
mosaics and marble, making
this less ‘history tour’ and more
‘time machine’. Crowds equal
stress. For this reason, the San
Lorenzo District is the place
to head for restful respite from
the Trevi Fountain flock. This
is alternative, bohemian Rome,
with unique shops and quaint
eateries; trade tourist cliches
for informality and intrigue.
Villa Gordiani, alongside Via
Prenestina is another haven of
peace. This archaeological park
is rarely crowded, and the lawns
blooming flowers and Roman
ruins make this perfect for an
evening stroll. There are plenty
of hidden gems off the beaten
track. When it comes to high-
class shopping, for example,
shun well-known Via Condotti
and opt for equally elegant (and
quieter) Via del Governo
Vecchio, in downtown. Your
own private Rome awaits.
77
Weekends
Great Escapes

GREAT ESCAPES
A SPlASh of
Summer
They pack family-friendly excitement
and cool respite from the sweltering
heat: thank heavens for waterparks, the
entertainment-oases of the desert

78
 July 2016
World Traveller

1. 2.

1.
Wild Wadi Waterpark,
Dubai
Don’t let the stunning Burj
Al Arab/Jumeirah Beach
Hotel backdrop relax you: this
Arabain-themed park is as
wild as its name suggests. A
collection of rides will rattle
the bones, such as the Burj
Surj, Wipeout & Riptide, and
the series of thrilling Master
Blasters. Yallah!
Must Ride: Jumeirah Sceirah
jumeirah.com

3.
2.
Aquaventure
Waterpark, Dubai
Atlantis, The Palm evokes the
thunder and might of gods like
Poseidon at their must-visit
attraction, where guests can
zipline 20m above the park,
submerse on a Shark Safari
in the lagoon, feed Cownose
Rays, surge down Torrent
River and The Rapids, or take a
heart-stopping plummet on the
ultimate ‘Leap of Faith’.
Must Ride: Shark Attack Slide
atlantisthepalm.com

3.
Legoland Dubai
Water Park
It’s coming soon to the Dubai
entertainment landscape, and
LEGOLAND has already whet
the appetite with an ocean of
exciting images on Instagram.
If their water park in Florida is
anything to go by, we’re in for a
real treat come October.
4. Must Ride: Build-A-Raft-River
(assemble a custom LEGO raft)
legoland.com/dubai

4.
Yas Waterworld, Abu
Dhabi
This Yas Island highlight is
deemed a megapark, and lives
up to the billing with 43 rides,
slides and attractions serving up
a huge slice of adventure, with a
chance to try traditional Emirati
pearl diving, too. It’s also home
to the biggest kids’ waterpark
play area in the Middle East.
One visit just isn’t enough...
Must Ride: Dawwama
yaswaterworld.com

79
Weekends
World Traveller Promotion
Born Get ready for an
to
elite Dubai staycation,
where you’ll come for
be
wild
Wild Wadi Waterpark™
adrenaline, and stay
for the levels of luxury at
Jumeirah Beach Hotel
I
t’s one of those hot, July-September
summer evenings in Dubai. You’ve reached
the weekend, the children are restless and
fancy a dose of excitement and adventure,
and you’d relish the opportunity to cool off
from the humidity… Head to Wild Wadi
Waterpark™ for Starlight Fridays, and zoom
around watercentric rides long into the night.
Very memorable.
For those unfamiliar, the waterpark is a
UAE stalwart; one of the longest-serving
theme park icons that is still as fresh in
2016 as when it first opened. Wild Wadi is
themed around the tale of Juha – a known
character from the Arabian folklore – and
there are over 30 rides and attractions to
entice the entire family. Some of the ride
names make the hairs stand on end: take
on Tantrum Alley, Burj Surj, the Wipeout
and Riptide Flowrider surfing adventures,
and (gulp) Jumeirah Sceirah. There are
four levels of fun though (Waves of Fun,
Relaxing, Daring, and Kid Friendly), and the
Flood River and long, lazy drift along Juha’s
80
Journey are suitable for those seeking a
less-frenzied time. All that action can work
up an appetite, and with a variety of snack-
food locales such as Julshan’s Burgers and
Dogs, Ali’s BBQ, and Riptide Pizza you’ll
soon replenish your energy.
Wild Wadi has a stellar reputation and
takes a considerate approach to its guests,
perhaps best embodied by the peace-of-
mind provided for female patrons with a
dedicated Ladies’ Night. Every Thursday
from 8pm until midnight (through to
September 2016, excluding Ramadan), the
waterpark is run entirely by female staff.
For Mums, their boys under-8 are allowed
in, given that proof of age is provided.
While we’ve mostly mentioned visiting
at night, the park being open from 10am
provides plenty of scope to spend an entire
day. Our tip for a sophisticated stay is
to opt for one of the nine VIP cabanas –
located along Juha’s Journey Lazy River
and the Wavepool – in which to soak
up the occasion. Up to eight guests are

guaranteed private seating in a cabana with
four premium (cushioned) sunloungers,
cold towels upon arrival, VIP Fast Pass
for quick access to White Water Wadi,
and more. Book your exclusive cabana at
wwguestrelations@wildwadi.com. All
round, it’s a refreshing and thoroughly
exciting experience for visitors of all ages!
Stay here
Once you’ve splashed through the Wild
Wadi waves, it’s time to retreat to Dubai’s
most instantly-recognisable wave-shaped
structure, the Jumeirah Beach Hotel. The
brand’s ethos is centred on providing a
different dimension to the hotel-stay: 21
restaurants, cafes and bars ensure you
can experience the bold flavours of world
cuisine, it is set upon an enviable stretch
of private beach, and the luxuriously
furnished suites and Royal Villas afford
spectacular views of the Arabian Gulf (that
seductively curved building design makes
for some pretty balconies). Accommodation-
July 2016
World Traveller
wise, there’s a smorgasbord of options
whatever the size of your family or group.
Among the elite are the Three-bedroom
Ocean Suites, and Beit Al Bahar One and
Two Bedroom Royal Villas; traditional,
Arabian-styled villas that sit beachside.
This is a hotel styled for an unrivalled
family getaway, with amenities that include
the Pavilion Dive Centre, six swimming
pools, Sinbad’s Kids Club and – of course –
complimentary, unlimited access to Wild
Wadi Waterpark™ and all its wonders.
Visa cardholders can avail some tempting
stay, dining or play offers at both
Jumeirah Beach Hotel and Wild Wadi
Waterpark™. There’s the Summer
Spectacular, Visa Suite Stay, Visa Exclusive
Stay Offer and a Summer Dining Offer, as
well as 25% off admission when paying with
your Visa at Wild Wadi Waterpark™ (until
September 30, 2016). Explore the world of
Jumeirah lifestyle experiences, hospitality
and special offers at jumeirah.com
81
Weekends
48-Hour Foodie
48-Hour Foodie
Vienna
A visit to this city of contrasts isn’t complete without sampling
some of its fantastic gourmet offerings, where local food
traditions are blended with sophisticated international fusions
DAY ONE
Breakfast
Prepare to be suitably impressed with the breakfasts on offer at
this charming eatery in a lovingly-restored tropical house in the
beautiful Burggarten. Order freshly made omelettes and salmon
from the open-style kitchen at Palmenhaus’, or try their crusty,
meat sandwiches paired with boiled eggs (a favourite with the
locals). Everything is complemented by excellent coffee, and
the butterfly house next door is a great after-breakfast visit.
palmenhaus.at
Lunch
In the heart of the Museum Quarter, Glacis Beisl is a pretty spot
to refuel with genuine Austrian fare during a bout of sightseeing.
It’s a little tricky to find in the back of the quarter (at the top of some
stairs underneath a vineyard), but it’s worth the effort it takes to
find it. Drawing a mixed crowd of tourists and locals alike, this
place does one of the best schnitzels in the city, which is no mean
feat. And in its unique spot atop the 300-year-old city walls, its
location is as authentic as the cuisine. glacisbeisl.at
Dinner
Inconspicuously tucked behind an unmarked door on
Schonbrunner Strasse, Motto is the hip place to head for a
delicious dinner on your first day in town. Tuck into the macaroni
cheese for some guilt-laden but oh-so-delicious comfort food or
keep things authentic with a wonderfully soft Tafelspitz (boiled
beef). Don’t skip dessert; even Jude Law loves Motto’s strawberry
and nougat dumplings. Afterwards, sample their speciality mixed
drinks as you take in the eclectic interiors and trendsetting tunes.
motto.wien
82
DAY TWO
Breakfast
Long-frequented by Viennese highbrows, Café Central dates
back to 1876 and you can practically feel the history as you walk
into the palatial interior. Breakfast is a casual affair despite the
vaults and marble columns, so pull up a Thonet chair and make like
Klimt, Freud or Mozart. In the evening, the place is transformed:
a truly elegant event with white linen tablecloths covering marble
tabletops and a classical pianist entertaining guests on the ivories.
It’s a slice of history, with fantastic coffee to boot. palaisevents.at
Lunch
Nibble your way around the aptly named Nashchmarket – the city’s
best-known market – but be sure to make a stop at Umar Fisch.
Reputed to serve the best seafood in the city, this must-visit imports
freshest catches of the day from Italy and Turkey and cooks it up
in a manner that can only be described as delicious. Order the
ever-popular swordfish or opt for mussels in white sauce and giant
shrimps served in herb butter. Pair with a pleasant grape from the
Wachau for an eating experience you shouldn’t miss. umarfisch.at
Dinner
Vienna’s first two Michelin-starred restaurant is the ideal spot
to round off a visit. Rising from the banks of the River Wien,
Steirereck provides an elegant setting of farm-to-fork eating
amongst the walkways of Stadtpark. Fusing cutting edge processes
with classical ingredients from his homeland, Heinz Reitbauers’s
cooking hits the spot. Freshwater mountain fish served with yellow
carrots, pollen and sour cream is the signature dish and well
worth a sample, or tuck into succulent lamb belly paired with sea
buckthorns. Make sure to book ahead. steirereck.at

Staycations
Desirable hotel hotspots on the
GCC doorstep, for a relaxing
weekend escape
Salalah Marriott Resort
A Coveted Address
marriott.com
Location
Oman
Dhofar: famed for sand dunes,
ancient Mirbat forts and Wadi
Darbat – lush during Khareef
In a Nutshell
Beside the beaches of Salalah
cove, the five-star resort is
popular with family and group
bookings
On-site Highlight
The June-September monsoon
is an amazing occurrence, as the
arid mountains transform green
and into a nature and wildlife
haven. There’s an annual
Salalah Festival to celebrate
Selected Suite
Home for up to 5 guests, the 1 or
2-bedroom beach chalets are a
real travel treat. Each affords
stunning sea or mountain views
from a balcony or terrace
Cuisine
The Cove, Dhofar Piano Lounge
and The Wharf Pool Bar offer
coffees and thirst-quenchers; Al
Dana settles seafood cravings
The Ritz-Carlton DIFC
Art and Elegance
ritzcarlton.com/difc
Location
Dubai
2km from the Burj Khalifa in
Dubai International Financial
Centre, for buisiness and play
In a Nutshell
Limestone façade, stunning
14-storey waterfall and an art
deco inspired lobby. A diamond
in the glittering Ritz repertoire
On-site Highlight
DIFC is a true culture corner
with world-class art galleries
(showcasing both local and
international works), acclaimed
restaurants and quaint cafes.
Art is on-show in the hotel, too
Selected Suite
The pinnacle is a 3-bedroom
apartment with city and
courtyard views, large dining
area, walk-in closets and high-
thread-count bedding
Cuisine
The patisserie, Cake, tempts,
but for a light evening meal take
a table at Sunken Garden, an
alfresco venue full of secrets
Hyatt Regency Makkah
In the Sacred City
makkah.regency.hyatt.com
Location
Saudi Arabia
Gets you as close as possible to
grand old Al-Masjid Al-Haram,
the largest mosque in the world
In a Nutshell
This is comfort and convenience
for worshippers and guests
alike, at a property that offers
panoramic views of the city
On-site Highlight
Easy access to the holy site is
the main appeal; for downtime,
a state-of-the-art fitness centre,
shopping gallery on the podium
level and Regency Club Lounge
are on hand for leisure time
Selected Suite
The Royal Suite is pure luxury.
Floor-to-ceiling windows with
mosque views and a bathroom
with walk-in marble rain shower
are among the treats
Cuisine
Visit KSA, dine Italian? Yes.
Temptation is in the shape of Al
Forno, a rustic trattoria eatery
with open-kitchen concept
July 2016
World Traveller
The Chedi Muscat
Mountain Majesty
ghmhotels.com/en/muscat/
Location
Oman
With the Hajar Mountains and
Gulf of Oman, nature puts on a
show for the hotel’s backdrop
In a Nutshell
Traditional Omani, Zen, Arabic,
Japanese and European visuals;
warrants its membership of
‘Leading Hotels of the World’
On-site Highlight
All of its relaxation elements:
The Chedi is set in a 21-acre
garden oasis, has a thirteen-
suite Balinese spa, health club,
and three pools (including one
that’s a whopping 103m long)
Selected Suite
Each Chedi Club Suite is a
stunning 67sq.m. villa with
soaring ceiling, private terrace
or balcony, open-plan bathroom
and ensures Club Lounge access
Cuisine
All nine culinary venues
impress, starring sumptuous
seafood at Beach Restaurant on
a 370m private stretch of sand
83
Weekends
Abu Dhabi
City of
Shutterbugs
The 9th International Emirates
Photography Exhibition brings
exceptional still-life works to the
UAE capital
G
iven a camera, a ‘Family Album’
theme, and a set of performance
values and standards by the
International Federation of Photographic
Art (FIAP), where does a photographer
even begin? Entrants of the International
Emirates Photography Competition – from
90 different countries, no less – took a maze
of different visual paths to arrive at their
own eye-catching interpretation.
The competition was a resounding
success, with more than 30,000 submissions
attempting to secure the FIAP gold medal
and AED100,000 prize. Under the patronage
of FIAP, the annual event is organised by
the Tourism and Culture Authority (TCA)
of Abu Dhabi, who selected ‘family’ as the
this year’s theme in order to ‘reflect the
community values, and connect a variety of
individuals and cultural environments so as
to serve modern, creative artistic ideas in
the field of photography.’ The overarching
ambition though is to motivate budding
UAE-based photographers to attend
84
specialised workshops, interactive meetings
and seminars, as well as individual and
group exhibitions. A series of masterclasses
and workshops for adults and teens are
being held at Manarat al Saadiyat, Al
Marsam Al Hor in the National Theatre, and
Al Qattara Arts Centre in Al Ain.
July marks the final chance to view the
2016 exhibition being staged at Manarat
Al Saadiyat, including the photographs of
Grand Prize winner Chengliang Liu. The
Chinese photographer triumphed thanks
to a portfolio named Love on the Cooking
Stove, which features eight environmental
portraits depicting domestic scenes shot
within family kitchens of rural Chinese
homes. There are many notable victors
worth seeing though, from categories such
as the Monochrome Theme award, Noor
Ali Rashid award and the Future Image
by Future Eyes youth award. The entire
collective taps into a broad emotional
spectrum and be it haunting, quirky,
intriguing or downright creative, there’s
certain to be a photograph that inspires
every soul... perhaps even enough to pick up
a camera themselves.
Log onto visitabudhabi.ae for more
details, or download the TCA ‘Visit Abu
Dhabi’ app at bit.ly/VAD-mobile
Stay here
For a picture-perfect, Thai-inspired hotel
in this emirate, Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi
ticks the boxes of luxury. A heartbeat
away from the city’s Corniche and its
cultural centre, the property is located
in the business district, but that’s not to
say it’s strictly business here. They’ve
executive apartments, an array of exquisite
restaurants, facilities that include Namm
Spa and DFiT Fitness Centre, and the
stay-packages are worthy of attention
too (in particular the appealing 24-hour
Staycation, Bonus Night Encore and
Couple’s Getaway offers).
dusit.com/dusitthani/abudhabi
 SAVE
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Weekends
dnata Offers

WORLD TRAVELLER

Weekend Reader Offers

Sheraton Dubai Mall of the Emirates

Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi

Radisson Blu, Abu Dhabi, Yas Island The Regency Kuwait

UAE JW Marriott Marquis

Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi
Hotel & Villas
1 night from USD72 per person
Special Offer: Receive
38% discount on room rate;
complimentary upgrade from
Park Room to Sea View Room;
early check-in at 12am and late
check-out at 4pm; 20% discount
on spa treatments and 20%
discount on food and beverage
Includes: Stay in a Sea View
Room with breakfast
Validity: Now ‘til Aug 31, 2016
Radisson Blu, Abu Dhabi,
Yas Island
1 night from USD69 per person
Special Offer: Complimentary
kids’ meals; complimentary
access to Yas Waterworld and
Ferrari World; guaranteed
room upgrade to next category;
late check-out until 4pm; 20%
discount on food and beverage
and spa treatments
Includes: Stay in a Standard
Room with breakfast
Validity: Now ‘til Sep 30, 2016
Hotel Dubai
1 night from USD61 per person
Special Offer: 40% discount on
room rate
Includes: Stay in a Deluxe
Room with breakfast
Validity: Now ‘til Sep 30, 2016
Waldorf Astoria Ras Al
Khaimah
Special offer: Stay 3 nights
and get an additional night free;
2 children aged under 12 go
free; 25% discount on all spa
treatments (excl. mani/pedi)
Includes: Stay in a Junior Suite
Sea View with breakfast
Validity: Now ‘til Sep 15, 2016
Sheraton Dubai Mall of
The Emirates Hotel
1 night from USD91 per person
Special Offer: Complimentary
upgrade to next room category;
late check-out until 4pm;
complimentary extra bed for 1
child of 16 years or younger; 50%
off on child breakfast rate, 30%
discount on food and beverage;
JW Marirott Marquis Hotel Dubai
and 20% discount on selected
spa treatments
Includes: Stay in a Classic
Room with breakfast
Validity: Now ‘til Sep 30, 2016
Kuwait
The Regency Kuwait
1 night from USD125 per
person
Special Offer: 18% off room
rates; 15% off food and beverage
Includes: Stay in a Standard
Room (Garden View) with
breakfast
Validity: Now ‘til Sep 2, 2016
Oman
Millennium Resort
Mussanah
1 night from USD55 per person*
Special Offer: Summer
Promotional Rates:
complimentary access to
kids’ club and mini golf; rock
climbing; beach volleyball;
health club; sauna; steam room;
Jacuzzi; and fishing
Includes: Deluxe Garden View
Room with breakfast
Validity: Now ‘til Sep 30, 2016
*Offer is not valid during Eid
Al Fitr

86
 July 2016
World Traveller

WIN!
A getaway to Al Waha, the
ultimate Omani oasis, at
Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah
Resort and Spa
A dedicated family hotel
inspired by Dhofari architecture,
the property is at the foot
of majestic mountains. Each
guest-room has lush garden
views or vistas of the blue
ocean, while several swimming
pools surrounded by date palms
create a serene outdoor space
in which to splash (or relax). Our
prize this month is 3 nights in a
Superior King room at Al Waha
hotel for two, with breakfast
included. Just correctly solve
this hotel-themed question:

When translated, the meaning

of Al Waha is...

A) The Desert
B) The Mirage
C) The Oasis

Email your answer to easywin@

hotmediapublishing.com by
July 31, 2016.
*Valid for six months from July 2016 and
voucher redemption is subject to availability.
Not valid during Public Holidays, Eid Holidays
or between December 20-31, 2016

Toll Free
Dubai: 800 4770
Abu Dhabi 800 701
www.thriftyuae.com Locations
Thrifty has more than 52 accessible
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Al Ain, Sharjah, Ajman,

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87
Weekends
Suite Dreams

Suite
Dreams

What:
W Sound Suite
Where:
W Retreat & Spa
Bali – Seminyak
About:
As a brand, the W has an
established guest-list of
musicians who have resided
at its hotels – their reputation
for crafting luxury boutique
properties (with iconic design)
must resonate with similarly
creative types. This popularity
with discerning melodymakers
has been noted, and lead to
the creation of a unique suite
where guests can ‘Sleep, eat,
record, repeat.’ Says Anthony
Ingham of W Hotels Worldwide,
“We know that inspiration
can strike at any moment, so
the W Sound Suite is today’s
tech-savvy version of scribbling
lyrics on a cocktail napkin. Bali,
a vibrant and creative hub, is
the perfect setting for our first
music studio.” This carefully-
attuned enclave offers a stylish
soundproof space with a
main mixing room that includes
professional equipment from
Native Instruments, Pioneer and
Moog, as well as a private vocal
booth that overlooks a luscious
tropical garden. If music be the
food of hospitality, stay on.
wretreatbali.com/wsoundsuite

88
Spend your summer in Abu Dhabi with superb entertainment across the
emirate for all the family including live concerts, amazing theatre shows,
great comedy and your favourite kids' characters live on stage!

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KEY MAP Official Hotel Official Event Partners Official TV Official Airline Organised by
Partner Partner Partner
Abu Dhabi
Al Ain
Al Gharbia
 JUMEIRAH CITY BREAKS
AT JUMEIRAH AT ETIHAD TOWERS.

Book any room category and enjoy the following discounts and benefits when staying a minimum of three nights:
20% Discount off Food & Beverage in the following restaurants: Li Beirut, Rosewater and Nahaam
20% Discount on Talise Spa body treatments only
Up to 20% off Best Available Rate
Complimentary Buffet Breakfast at Rosewater
Complimentary Pool and Beach access
Complimentary Wi-Fi access
Book now using the promotion code: JCITYOFFER

For bookings or more information, please call +971 2 811 5888 or email JADreservations@jumeirah.com

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