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A Look Inside The Fashion Industry

I remember sitting on my dad’s lap as a little girl, watching the stock market on all his

computer screens. With a stack of Post-Its in my hand, I kept track of prices as they moved up

and down. I had my eyes glued to the ticker running across the bottom of the television screen

looking out for symbols such as DOW J, S&P 500, and NASDAQ. I felt it was a very important

job and furiously scribbled down company names and numbers as if my life depended on it. My

father (University of Chicago), grandfather (NYU), and uncle (NYU) all went to business school

so I grew up surrounded by never-ending debates about this company and that company. They

debated over what stocks were best to invest in at the time, what stocks should be sold, and what

the best up and coming companies would be This is what sparked my interest in markets and

business.

Like business, my interest in fashion started at a young age. Whether it was deciding

what outfit my Polly Pockets would wear or what accessories my American Girls would be

sporting, I have always been fascinated by fashion. As a young teen, I poured over fashion blogs

and magazines to see what the current and upcoming trends might be. I would anxiously wait

each month for the new issue of ​Teen Vogue​ to come in the mail and would patiently wait for my

mom to finish looking at the latest issue of ​InStyle​ so I could get my turn at it. The first time I

saw ​The Devil Wears Prada​, I started dreaming about having a glamorous job in the fashion

industry, perhaps as a marketing executive for one of the big fashion houses like Prada or

Chanel. I remember seeing Anne Hathaway’s character transform from a homely intern to a

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glamorous fashionista. It showed me just how much fashion can influence someone’s life and

how it can show one’s personality, passion, and creativity.

Growing up, my family and I would always make trips out to New York to either visit

family or just enjoy the big, bustling city. I would venture into all the big department stores

wide-eyed and in awe. This past summer I went to New York with my dad and we were able to

go to all the big, famous department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys. Designer

Henri Bendel specifically stood out to me because the mannequins in the windows were decked

out in designer clothes and sparkling, diamond jewelry. They had shiny leather and crocodile

skin (fake of course) handbags slung around their shoulders and seven inch, red-bottom heels

slipped onto their feet. Walking into the store, I was met with bright colors, extravagant

decorations, and lavish details. The store smelled of rich perfumes and luxury (if luxury had a

scent). Hanging from the ceiling were multiple chandeliers twinkling like stars and the walls

were painted with Henri Bendel’s signature stripes or embellished with elegant molding. A grand

staircase spiraled up the building with a gold railing that led to each level of the store. As my dad

and I walked up this spiraling staircase, each level was decorated with bright, summer-esque

pool floats and mannequins dressed to glamorous perfection. While walking up, I felt as though I

was in a mansion that consisted of a humongous walk-in closet filled to the brim with endless

handbags and accessories. I was fascinated by the sweet smelling perfumes and candles,

bedazzling rings and necklaces, and the quirky little trinkets that while you have no real need for

them, you still feel like you need them. All around me were products embellished with the

Chanel C’s, the Gucci G’s, and the signature Burberry plaid. There was so much thought put into

all the store’s layout and decorations that it made me feel like Alice wandering through

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Wonderland. Browsing around the store for me was like a little kid walking around Disneyland.

Henri Bendel showed me how much of a fantasy land fashion really can be. Now my interest in

fashion has gone way beyond just the clothes and I am so excited about exploring the economics

and the business decisions that drive the industry. ​But first, I need to answer the question: What

role does marketing play in the fashion industry?

The fashion industry is one of the largest industries in the world today. Companies make

billions selling clothes and accessories. But how do these companies decide what to make and

market to maximize sales? How do the choices we make as customers influence business and

marketing strategies? How do these companies decide what demographics to target? Being a

frequent shopper (sometimes too frequent), I have always asked these questions as I sift through

racks and racks of clothes that seem to have been made just for my personal sense of style.

There are many industries in our world. There is finance, manufacturing, retail, real

estate, insurance, and many many more. The fashion industry, however, is very unique. In an

interview with Nalissa Sutipayakul, she talked about how she is a merchandising manager for

Opening Ceremony in New York City. Opening Ceremony is an American clothing brand and

retailer that was founded by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon in 2002. Sutipayakul stated that “the

fashion industry is definitely fast paced and strategies are always changing.” Some of these

strategies include who to market, what trends will sell the best, etc. She also mentioned how the

industry “[moves] at rapid speed, decisions are made quickly, and there’s no set strategy.” In

“Succeeding in Tomorrow’s Global Fashion Market”, an article from ​McKinsey & Company, ​it

states that one of the qualities that makes this industry unique is the fact that “few industries

require companies to stay as nimble and on their toes as the global apparel business” (Hedrich).

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This relates back to what Sutipayakul said about how the industry moves at a “rapid speed”.

Working in the fashion industry requires everyone to be alert of what is happening around them.

Trends are constantly changing and going in and out of style.

​The fashion industry, similar to industries such as food and manufacturing, is an industry

that allows one to see a product from start to finish. Sutipayakul explained how she is with the

design “from concept and inspiration for a collection, to product development - ensuring skus

and fabric cost are efficient…to shipping to stores...to ensuring that products are at their selling

potential.” With fashion, the product just starts with a little idea in a designer’s head. That idea

then grows into a designer’s vision and from there he or she is able to create a piece of art. The

designer begins to sketch and put their ideas on paper. From there, they choose fabrics and mold

their sketch into a ready-to-wear product. In an interview with Kathryn Pilotti, she talked about

how the fashion industry allows her to see products from the initial idea and is “really cool to

work hands on with products.” Pilotti majored in fashion merchandising and also attended the

Fashion Institute in New York City. Currently, she works in merchandising at Alexander Wang

and is involved in business, analytics, design, sketches, and fabric samples. On the business side

of things, Pilotti is involved in selling reports, needs, and what is working for the brand and what

isn’t. She talked about how it takes many different elements for a company to be successful in

the fashion world. One of the most important elements in succeeding in the industry is the

marketing aspect of the business. Marketing is “the multifaceted, systematic approach to selling

goods, adopted by every business and not for-profit agency and group with a message. It

attempts to optimize an organization's ability to make a profit, whether monetary (profits or

donations) or electoral” (Burwood). Marketing in the fashion industry can be difficult because

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“the dynamics of the apparel industry are changing dramatically. To succeed amid the shifting

tides, companies need to build up competence....” (Hedrich). In fact, the fashion industry can be

the most difficult and complicated to market to consumers. Although all industries are always

changing to meet consumer needs and wants, the fashion industry is always developing as

seasons and trends constantly go in and out.

Trends change with the seasons (sometimes on a monthly, weekly, even daily basis) and

so do marketing tactics. Seasonal trends are influenced by factors such as weather and location.

With each season, companies tend to release new collections. For example, there are fashion

shows for spring/summer collections in the fall/winter and fashion shows for fall/winter

collections in the spring/summer. “Browsing” in ​The New York Times ​stated that “the first

purchases of any new season are always the most exciting, but they should also be the most

strategic since their appeal will have to last for months and months” (Phelan). Natalie Timoteo, a

full price retail buyer for Kipling North America is already working on buying product for

October in the spring. Timoteo describes how her and her team “buy about 6+ months in advance

of when the product arrives in the store.” Since trends do change so often, Timoteo explains how

Kipling’s “merchandising and design team...look back on past seasons to understand what sold

well and what [they] shouldn’t deliver again - styles, colors, prints” (Timoteo).

Although it can be exciting seeing the newest release from a famous designer, it can also

be a struggle to try and choose what to purchase considering trends are temporary and most

consumers want to get a good wear out of their items. When asked about how the industry

predicts trends, Sutipayakul talked about how the industry “predicts trends from reading selling

reports on what has sold the most units in a specific period of time.” She also explained how

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companies will have buying teams that “receive insight from wholesale and retail stores on what

types of details are working.”

Social media also plays a huge role in regards to marketing in the fashion industry.

Sutipayakul said that “Instagram is a great predictor of trends as well.” An article in ​Forbes

states that “The world of marketing is constantly changing, especially in the modern era of social

media, automated ad tech and audience analytics. Brands need to stay on top of these changes to

successfully reach their audiences, especially as consumers become savvier and more skeptical

of advertising” (Council). What this means for fashion is that although there are people in

marketing departments at each fashion company, fashion marketing is not limited to just that.

Fashion bloggers, social media influencers, and celebrities also play a huge role in

marketing in fashion. A lot of the times these people can be the ones who help market the latest

trend and often times they can even be the ones who start them. As society changes, so do

fashion trends. One recent trend is that people are starting to embrace their unique, quirky sides

and are starting to let that show through in their fashion choices. Bloggers, influencers, and

celebrities cause a commotion when they step out in something daring. However, it is a good

commotion that is met with applause and admiration. An article in ​Harper’s Bazaar ​wrote that

“there are many advantages to going strange. First and foremost, strange clothing is empowering.

Nobody messes with a strange person… You become your own work of art” (Doonan). It is not

so much that marketers create trends, but it is the consumers that make their own trends and

influence the industry.

Marketing does not define the industry, the industry defines what should be marketed.

Vogue ​stated in an article “...to not think about what’s going to sell. Creating something based on

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what a buyer wants, that’s the worst thing you can do… People don’t know what they want until

they see something they like” (Farra). Designers create products from their inspirations, visions,

and creativity and market it to consumers instead of trying to create products based on what they

think consumers will want. Fashion is all about being able to express individuality and designers

are able to do that as well. Designers are able to bring their visions to life and although marketers

do help the product sell and satisfy consumers, the designers creativity basically sells itself.

People love to see something unique and even more, they love to show off items that make them

feel special and that they are expressing their true self. Marketing is hard; according to

Dictionary of American History, ​there are “marketing strategies for fashion brands to reach

potential customers through social media, search engines, email, and other channels. By using

data, analytics, and optimization tools, the firm helps clients gain an edge on competing

businesses and reach new customers” (Burwood). However, what really sells is something that

will make consumers feel like a million bucks (while hopefully not spending that much). In

today’s society, what also sells are products and brands that are hyped up by social media and

social influencers. Fashion marketing in today’s society heavily revolves around social media.

Sutipayakul explained what role marketing plays in the fashion industry. In her own words:

Marketing plays an enormous role especially in today’s social media driven

society. Instagram, online media like ​Vogue, Hypebeast, ​etc., plus our own

website helps drive sales for our products. A lot of people look up to their certain

celebrity and when someone you look up to wears something, it makes you

interested in that product too. Brand exposure is extremely important so that what

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we stand for, our brand DNA, is easily translated to the public. The industry has

so many different types of people working on all different types of products.”

Sutipayakul also emphasized the importance of individuality in the fashion industry. She went on

to say “...people love to express themselves. The best part about fashion is that you can express

yourself and your individuality without having to say a word.” It is not marketers that decide

what will be in one season and out the next. It is the industry, designers, and consumers who

decide what is in and what is out.

The fashion industry is a unique industry filled with eccentric, creative people that

influence fashion, pop culture, and social media all across the globe. What starts out as a spark in

a designer’s head can end up being a shimmering gown on the runway or a shiny handbag in a

department store. A designer’s designs are a glimpse into their creative minds and is a window to

see their creations come to life. The fashion world is a fast paced industry affected by factors

ranging from the environment to politics to social media trends. In this industry, there is no set

strategy because just because a strategy worked for the previous collection does not mean that it

will work for the next collection. This industry is definitely not made for the weak minded. It is

an industry where you have to be confident in yourself when you speak and you also have to

speak up. The market is always developing and the industry needs to market relevant yet cutting

edge, unique styles to the public.

When it comes to fashion, marketing can be difficult because it can be hard to predict and

hard to cater to all different types of consumers. There is the business side of things which

includes data such as selling reports. There is also the social media side of it which includes

social media platforms such as Instagram and also online media such as ​Vogue. ​These influences

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are also part of marketing in fashion. Social media is so influential in today’s society that when a

blogger writes about this and a celebrity posts about that it can spark a consumer’s interest in the

product. Marketing does not shape trends; it is trends that shape marketing.

In the end, it is the fashion industry as a whole that defines what should be marketed. It is

not the other way around; marketing does not define what the industry is. Marketing in the

fashion industry is all about creating something unique and selling it to consumers versus

creating something that you think the consumer wants. It is more than just numbers, statistics,

and social media. Designers use their own individuality and creativity to make artful

masterpieces. Consumers see this creativity shining through a designer’s products and it inspires

them to express themselves through fashion. Fashion is more than just handbags, clothes, and

accessories. It is being able to express yourself and who you are as a person. It is about being

able to send across a message without having to speak a single word and being able to tell a story

without a single page.

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Works Cited

1. ​Burwood, Stephen. "Marketing." ​Dictionary of American History​, edited by Stanley I. Kutler,

3rd ed., vol. 5, Charles Scribner's Sons, 2003, pp. 245-247. ​Student Resources in Context​,

http://link.galegroup.com/apps/doc/CX3401802543/SUIC?u=wal55317&xid=66afe50d.

Accessed 12 Mar. 2018.

2. Carsten Keller, Karl-Hendrik Magnus, Saskia Hedrich, Patrick Nava, and Thomas

Tochtermann. “Succeeding in Tomorrow's Global Fashion Market.” ​McKinsey &

Company​,

www.mckinsey.com/business-functions/marketing-and-sales/our-insights/succeeding-in-t

omorrows-global-fashion-market.

3. Council, Forbes Communications. “12 Marketing Trends To Take Advantage Of This Year.”

Forbes​, Forbes Magazine, 14 Feb. 2018,

www.forbes.com/sites/forbescommunicationscouncil/2018/02/14/12-marketing-trends-to-

take-advantage-of-this-year/#6a6c312b7401.

4. Doonan, Simon. "Strange is the new black." ​Harper's Bazaar​, 1 Sept. 2017, p. 464+. ​Student
Resources in Context​,
http://link.galegroup.com/apps/doc/A503468090/SUIC?u=wal55317&xid=01c1c74d.
Accessed 12 Mar. 2018.

5. Farra, Emily. “How to Make It in the Fashion Industry: Advice From Eckhaus Latta, Colovos,

Tim Coppens, and Tome.” ​Vogue​, Vogue, 9 Nov. 2017,

www.vogue.com/article/cfda-young-designer-advice-eckhaus-latta-tim-coppens-colovos-

tome.

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6. Phelan, Hayley. "Browsing." ​New York Times​, 7 Sept. 2017, p. D3(L). ​Student Resources in

Context​,

http://link.galegroup.com/apps/doc/A503617042/SUIC?u=wal55317&xid=de74aecd.

Accessed 12 Mar. 2018.

7. Pilotti, Kathryn. Phone Interview. 17 Jan. 2018

8. Sutipayakul, Nalissa. Email Interview. 8 Mar. 2018

9. Timoteo, natalie. Email Interview. 29 Mar. 2018

Works Consulted

1. Sault, Samantha. ​About the Fashion Industry - United States Fashion Industry Association​,

www.usfashionindustry.com/about-us/about-the-fashion-industry.

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