Acknowledgement

I here by acknowledge the great efforts done by the HR department of MTM mills. I
appreciate all those instructors who managed to deliver lectures even they were
packed by the work load. I will not forget to pay regards to all those persons who
helped me learning about the processes and machines even they were not bound to
tell me and guide me.

There are piles of information available about all the processes and definitions
involved in Spinning, Knitting, Processing and about the other production or
managerial processes and departments. But, in this report I remain restricted to
mention the knowledge that I have acquired from the MTM Mills only.

In this report, I am not mentioning the recommendations or suggestions for further

improvements, because I feel myself still in the process of socialization with the
organization. Hopefully, I will be better able to suggest any thing by the completion
of my three months’ training.

I am in debt with Mr. Yasir Nazir, who believed in me and in my qualifications to

make me a part of MTM. I am quite determined to contribute to the achievement of
our vision and mission of becoming the world’s best organization. (Insha Allah)

Thanks

Naeem Anjum May 2, 2003.

(Management Trainee)

1
 Contents
Sr. No. Particulars Page Number

1 Management and Departmental Hierarchy 3

2 Production, Planning and Control ( PPC ) 4

3 Spinning Department 6

4 Knitting Department 19

5 Processing Department - Lot Section 26

6 Processing Department - Dyeing 29

7 Processing Department - Finishing 39

8 Processing Department - R & D 42

9 Processing Department - Q.C. And Q. A. 49

10 Human Resources Department 52

11 Information Technology Department 55

12 Material Management Department 56

13 Admin Department 57

14 Finance Department 58

15 Apparel Division - Process Flow 60

2
 MANAGEMENT AND DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCH IN
MTM
MTM Mills is consisted of the following departments;

1- PPC
2- Spinning
3- Knitting
4- Processing ( Dyeing , Finishing, R & d, and QC & QA )
5- HR
6- IT
7- Material Management
8- Admin
9- Finance

The Top Level Management is consisted of following hierarchy;

- CEO
- GM

The Middle Level Management is consisted of following hierarchy;

- Manager
- Deputy Manager
- Asst. Manager
- Sr. Officer
- Officer

The Lower Level Management is consisted of the following hierarchy mainly;

- Super visor
- Foreman
- Operator
- Helpers

3
 PPC (PRODUCTION, PLANNING AND CONTROL)

It is obvious from the name of the department that this department is meant for production,
its planning and controlling of production towards the right direction in and effective and
efficient manner in given period.

PPC department has been subdivided into three divisions. i.e. a)- Planning b)- Control
c)- Yarn. The actual customer of MTM mills division is the MTM apparel division. The
whole process in MTM mills is initiated with the placement of PO from Apparel to Mills
division. The PO is first placed in PPC department from where it is fed in the FMS ( Fabric
Management System). Now this PO is available to all concerned department in Mills.

Here is the flow of a PO in Mills.

PO  PPC  R&D  Knitting  Dyeing 

Finishing  Dispatching

PPC is involved at each level of PO in Mills. The three divisions of PPC work as follows;

a)- Planning:

This division plans the whole PO with order specifications, work schedule, time line for
knitting, dyeing (Lot Making), finishing and up till dispatching of fabric to customer
(Apparel Division).

b)- Control:

This division actually looks after the PO time line execution for in time production and
dispatching to customer. This division is named by many people as Peeshay Peeshay
Challo (PPC) due to its involvement in PO.

c)- Yarn:

This division makes the availability of yarn in time before knitting gets started. The
procedure followed for yarn procurement is as follows;

4
PO  PO Feeding in FMS (PPC)  Approval Sheet (R &D)  Yarn Demand

Generation including the yarn count, quality (CRD/ CMB), and quantity (PPC) 

Forwarded to Head Office  Feed Back with time and vendor (H.O.)  Feed Back Fed

in FMS (PPC)  Receiving of Yarn (Store)  Testing of Yarn (Q.C.)  Received in

Store (Store)  Allocation to POs on Priority Bases (PPC)  Availability of Yarn in POs

in FMS.

The roll of R & D is very important because it defines the whole PO for knitting, dyeing,
and finishing according to customer Parameters and Requirement. And the actual work of
PPC starts after PO Parameters Approval Sheet by the R & D department.

5
 SPINNING
Spinning is the process of converting the raw cotton into end product yarn. The spinning
process is consisted of different units. The process flow of converting cotton to yarn is as
follows;

- Mixing
- Blow Room
- Carding
- Drawing and Simplex
- Ring
- Auto cone
- Packaging and Dispatching

Along with these units there are four service departments in spinning. i.e.

A)- Maintenance with work shop

B)- Electrical with work shop
C)- AC with work shop
D)- Quality Control (Lab)

Here is the elaboration of each process of spinning and role of service department.

Note:- The machines (with parts) used in the spinning process are explained under the
heading of Maintenance.

MIXING

The purpose of this department in spinning is to mix the cotton brought from different
areas and to remove the contaminations from the cotton. The machine used for this purpose
is Auto Bale Plucker.

The cotton is mixed in the form of lots. Each lot consists of 70-74 bales brought from
different areas. The reason of lot making is that the cotton produced in different areas of
Pakistan has different characteristics. Mixing of cotton from different areas makes an even
blend of these characteristics.

The daily consumption of this department is 106 bales in total in three shifts of workers.

The wastage of this department is consisted of contamination and jute mainly.

6
 BLOW ROOM

The objective of this department is opening, cleaning and lap forming of cotton for further
process of spinning.

The machines used for the fulfillment of this purpose are Named as Multi mixer Bale
Breaker, AXE Flow Cleaner and Scuthcer.

This department takes cotton as input and produces Laps of cotton as out put. It takes 7-10
mint. to make 3 Laps. It means 600-700 Laps per day are being produced. Each Lap is
consisted of 50 yards and one yard of Lap has the weight of 14 once. The total weight is
22.20 kg with +/- of 0.20 kg.

The wastage of this department is mainly consisted of trash and suspended particles.

CARDING

The purpose of this department is the conversion of laps made in the blow room into the
sliver.

The machine used for the fulfillment of this purpose is Crosrol MK- 4. This machine has
the capacity of 1000 canes per day in three shifts of workers daily. Each can is consisted of
4000-4500 yards of sliver. It takes half an hour to fill a cane. 14-16 canes are filled in 8
hours by one machine. Each cane has 18.5 kg in carding, 16 kg in breaker and 14 kg
weight in finisher. The weight of yarn in the sliver form is kept 58 grains per yard.

The wastage of this department is mainly consisted of trash and carded cotton.

DRAWING

The purpose of this department is doubling and drafting of sliver. There are two paths
available for sliver for further processing. One is for the carded yarn and the other is for the
combed yarn. For combed yarn the silver is converted into laps once again by the lap
former and then combed for separating noil (Cotton Fibers shorter than 1 inch). Then it is
converted into sliver and drafted for evenness.

Drawing Toyoda DYH 500 C, Drawing Toyoda DYH 2 C, Toyoda CM 10, Toyoda VC
and Lap Former Toyoda SK4A machines are used for combing, doubling and drafting of
sliver. The breaker has the capacity of 130 canes per shift, the finisher has the capacity of

7
120 canes per shift and the lap former have the capacity of 240-245 laps per shift. In
smaller units the breaker carded has 350 meters per mint, the breaker comber has 370
meters per

mint, finisher carded has 700 meters per mint, finisher comber has 350 per mint, and lap
former has 110 meters of lap per 5 mint capacities.

The weight of sliver is kept at each machine as;

- 66 Grains per yard in Drawing
- 65 Grains per yard in Finisher
- 66 Grains per yard in Breaker

The wastage of this department is lap cut, sliver cut, dropping, noil and hard waste.

SIMPLEX

The purpose of this department is twisting and drafting of sliver to make roving.

The machine used is Toyoda FL -16. The capacity of this department is to input 120 canes
per machine and out put 14-15 roving per cane. 15 yards of roving in carded have the
weight of 0.75 hanks and 15 yards of roving in combed have 0.95 hanks.

The waste of this department is consisted of roving cut and pneuma fill.

RING

This department is meant for drafting, twisting and winding of roving into yarn on
bobbins. The capacity of a spinning unit is measured in spindles. MTM has the spinning
unit of 14400 spindles (480 spindles per machine).

Ring machines Toyoda RY- 4 are installed in this department of spinning. Its capacity is
30 machines having doff of 480 spindles of each machine. One bobbin has a weight of 65
grams with yarn and 55 grams without yarn.

Pneuma fill is the wastage of this department mainly.

8
 AUTO CONE

The main purpose of this department is to remove the thick, thin, neps and contamination
from the yarn and to rewind the yarn in the form of cones.

Murat Mach Conner is used for this purpose. The machine parts Uster in old and LOEFE
in new machines is used for sensing these faults and cutters cut these faults while the
splicing

unit G1 in old and G2 in new machines splice the two ends of yarn. This department has
the capacity of producing 750-8000 cones per day, while each cone has a weight of 1890-
1900 grams.

The wastage of this department is thick, thin, neps, color contamination and double yarn.

PACKAGING

The yarn is moisturized, checked under ultra violet rays and packed into bags.

A moisturizing machine is being installed in the packaging department.

The capacity of this department is 300-325 bags per day while each bag has a weight of
100 ponds.

MAINTENANACE

Maintenance means to keep up the condition of the machine at its original specifications so
that the machine performs to give its best efficiency and effectiveness.

Machines can be maintained by following different approaches. These are as follows;

1- Corrective maintenance
2- Preventive maintenance
3- Predictive/ Proactive maintenance

The approach that is being followed in MTM unit is a blend of corrective and preventive
maintenance.

9
The standard procedure that should be followed to perform the maintenance activities is as
follows;

1- After failure or Preventive Check

2- Depute Personal(s)
3- Analysis of Fault
4- Procedure to be followed
5- Execution of procedure
6- Job done
7- Report / Record

The above mentioned procedure of maintenance is not being followed in MTM.

The basic purpose of maintenance is to

- Reduce the downtime

- Reduce the maintenance Cost
- Reduce the average inventory (Store and Spares)
- Provide a guideline for respective procedure next time

These purposes can be achieved y following the above mentioned procedure that will also
help in the maintenance managers to implement the CMM, which actually needs the past
history of faults and their remedies to take the next decision.

Hers is the maintenance schedule being followed in MTM (Department Wise);

MIXING

The objective of mixing department is to blend the cotton brought from different areas and
to open the pressed bales of cotton into fluffs. The machine used for this purpose is

Name of M/C
Auto Bale Plucker AOOZD 3 in No.

Having Parts

- Shooters Daily Checking and Oiling

- Beaters Daily Checking and Oiling
- Lattices Daily Checking and Oiling
- Condensers Daily Checking and Oiling

10
 - Strippers Daily Checking and Oiling
- Cutters Daily Checking and Oiling

One machine is kept standby while two machines remain in function. The machine parts
that are due to be changed, are changed on regular basis.

BLOW ROOM

After mixing cotton is brought into the blow room and stored in the sandwich form for 24
hours and then it is put into the following machine;

Name of M/C

Multi-Mixer Bale Breaker MBK-4 1 in No.

Having Parts

- Long Lattice Daily Checking and Oiling

- Bottom feed lattice Daily Checking and Oiling
- Spike lattice Daily Checking and Oiling
- MBK Pockets Daily Checking and Oiling
- Grid Bars Daily Checking and Oiling
- Feeding Rollers Daily Checking and Oiling
- Strippers Daily Checking and Oiling

Name of M/C

AXI Flow Cleaner 1 in No.

Having Parts

- Pockets Daily Checking and Oiling

- Feeding Rollers Daily Checking and Oiling
- Porcupine Beaters Daily Checking and Oiling

Name of M/Cs

VO1 1 in No.
HR6 1 in No.
VO2 1 in No.

Having Parts

- Porcupine Beaters Daily Checking and Oiling

11
 - Shooters Daily Checking and Oiling
- Feeding Rollers Daily Checking and Oiling

- Crushers Daily Checking and Oiling

- Grid Bars Daily Checking and Oiling

Name of M/c

Scutcher TOYODA 1 in No.

Scutcher CHINA MADE 1 in No.

Having Parts

- Scuthcer Pockets Daily Checking and Oiling

- Shooters Daily Checking and Oiling
- Porcupine Beaters Daily Checking and Oiling
- Piano Motion Daily Checking and Oiling
- Cone Drum Daily Checking and Oiling
- Double Gauge Daily Checking and Oiling
- Suction Fan Daily Checking and Oiling
- Calender Rollers Daily Checking and Oiling
- Lap Rods Daily Checking and Oiling

In Blow room the main problem or the main hindrance in performing the maintenance
activities is the single line of material flow. That is why it is not possible to overhaul a
machine regularly. However, periodic checks, oiling and greasing is done to maintain the
smooth running of machines. The machine parts that are due to be changed are changed on
regularly and timely intervals.

CARDING

The laps formed in the blow room are then brought into the carding.

Name of M/C
CrosRol MK-4 24 in No.

Having Parts

- Taker-in Daily Checking and Oiling

- Cylinder Daily Checking and Oiling
- Doffer Daily Checking and Oiling
- Mounts flyer Daily Checking and Oiling
- Brush Daily Checking and Oiling

12
 - Top Set Daily Checking and Oiling
- Coiler Box Daily Checking and Oiling

This department has a defined schedule of maintenance. One machine is overhauled daily.

Doffer wire and cylinder wires are grinded on regular basis and changed after every two
year. Taker in is changed after 9 months. A general check is also performed weekly.

DRAWING

Sliver formed in carding is doubled, drafted, combed and converted into more purified
form of slivers.

Name of M/C

Drawing Frames TOYODA-DYH500C 7 in No.

Drawing Frames TOYODA-DYH2C 2 in No.
Lap Former TOYODA-SK4A 1 in No.
Comber CM10 7 in No.
Comber VC250 1 in NO>

Having Parts

- Creels Daily Checking and Oiling

- Drafting zones Daily Checking and Oiling
- Auto Leveler Daily Checking and Oiling
- Top Pressure Section Daily Checking and Oiling
- Top Comber Daily Checking and Oiling
- Flyer Daily Checking and Oiling
- Coiler Box Daily Checking and Oiling

Along with the regular daily checking and oiling, a weekly oiling, checking and greasing is
done.

Top comber in Comber Machine is changed after 18 months. Calendar is changed after 4
years. Brush is changed after one year. Machines are over hauled once in a month.

SIMPLEX

Sliver formed in the precious department is turned into ravings in this department with the
help of following machines;

13
Name of M/C

TOYODA FL-16 6 in No.

Having Parts

- Drafting zone Daily Checking and Oiling

- Coving Flyer Daily Checking and Oiling
- Twister Daily Checking and Oiling
- Shafts Daily Checking and Oiling

Machines are weekly oiled and greased and overhauled once in a month. Hardness of
rollers tested weekly. Rubber cords are changed after one year.

RING

The final shape of yarn is given to the roving in the ring department.

Name of Machine

Ring TYODA- RY4 30 in No.

Having Parts

- Roving Guide Daily Checking and Oiling

- Front and Back Rollers Daily Checking and Oiling
- Wooden rollers Daily Checking and Oiling
- Cradle and Apron Daily Checking and Oiling
- Spindle and Spindle Traveler Daily Checking and Oiling
- Pneumonias Pipe Daily Checking and Oiling

One machine is over hauled once in a week.. Ring travelers are changed with in 4-7 days.
Grinding of rubber cords is done on \regular basis. Rubber cords are changed after one
year.

14
 AUTO CONE

Yarn is wounded on cones and checked for faults ( Thick, Thin, Neps and Color
Contamination) in this department.

Name of M/C

Murata Mach Coner 6 in No.

Having Parts

- Adopter Daily Checking and Oiling

- Cone Drum Daily Checking and Oiling
- Suction Mouth Daily Checking and Oiling
- Retie Mouth Daily Checking and Oiling
- P1, P2, P3, P4 (Pressure Pipes) Daily Checking and Oiling
- G1 and G2 (Splicing Units) Daily Checking and Oiling
- Uster And LOFPFE (Sensors) Daily Checking and Oiling
- Spindle Daily Checking and Oiling
- Cutters Daily Checking and Oiling
- Tension Assembly Daily Checking and Oiling

Round wise maintenance is being followed in this department i.e. a machine is checked in
three rounds, and it takes 3-4 months for a complete overhaul of a machine.

In Ring department, 50-60 % of maintenance cost is being incurred.

Recommendations;

If we are to divert the manual maintenance system to CMM then we have to keep

- The Records of faults

- The Records of remedies
- The Store and Spare Records
- The expiry Dates of Machine Parts

So that, the computer may suggest us by analyzing the history records, the actions to be
performed.

15
 ELECTRICAL

The electrical department is of great importance because each machine is run by

electrically functioning motors and circuits. Daily checking of machines is done by this
department for avoiding any mishap and for constant supply of electricity in the whole
spinning unit.

AIR CONDITIONING

Temperature and humidity in the air does count a lot each department of spinning because
it effects the count variation directly. This is the responsibility of the AC department to
keep the temperature and humidity, at the required levels, constant and same through out
the year (All seasons).

This department is equipped with LUWA AC Plant, Supply Fans, Return Fans, and Ducts.

The relative humidity of each department is checked after every half hour and controlled
with help of supply of fresh or used air of unit with the help of supply and return fans. The
relative humidity is calculated from dry and wet temperature by following formula;

R. H. = Difference b/w Dry and Wet * 300 / Dry = Ans – 98.4 = Ans

The temperature of each department is as follows;

DRY WET

Mixing Normal Normal

Blow Room 102-104 F 85-86 F
Carding 100-102 F 84-90 F
Drawing 80-90 F 78-80 F
Simplex 80-90 F 78-90 F
Ring 90 F 94 F
Auto Cone 90 F 94 F
Packing 70 F 71 F

16
 QUALITY CONTROL (LAB)

The purpose of this department is to ensure the quality from very start, cotton purchase, till
the yarn packing and dispatching.

Before purchasing the cotton following properties of cotton are checked.

- Fiber / Staple length With fibro graph or VI 4000

- MIC (Weight per unit length) With MIC Tester 4.2-5.2 accepted
- Trash (Dead Leaves of Cotton) With Shirley Analyzer 100 g / Bale
- Moisture ( Water contents in Cotton) With Moisture Meter 8 % Accepted

After the process of spinning has started the QC has checks at each level. Count ( Hanks
Per Pond or Count = 8.33*L/W) is checked by Auto sorter computer Program after
Wrapping of slivers, roving and yarn.

Sliver  6 yards  8 Samples Three times a day

Roving  15 yard  8 Samples Three times a day
Breaker  6 yard  8 Samples Three times a day
Finisher  6 yard  8 Samples Three times a day
Simplex (Hank Roving Test)  15 yard  4 Samples Once a day
Ring ( Strength check in Lea Form)  120 yard  4 Samples Once a day
Packing  Checking of each cone in ultra violet rays.

Uster test is applied to check the U% (Unevenness of the Yarn) at the Uster Tester
Machine.

Tenso Rapid machine is used to check the strength and elongation of a single thread of
yarn.

Classimate machine is used to test all types of faults and making their graphs. TPI (Twist
Per Inch = (TM) Twist Multi Pliers √ Count) can be checked on this Machine. The yarn
can be classified into three types based on TPI and TM and these are as;
- Hosiery Yarn
- Warp Yarn
- Weft Yarn

Micronare is used to calculate the value of 1st, 2nd and 3rd pick Value.

Cotton Blends:

17
We make blends of cotton with other materials like polyester and viscous to add more
value while reducing cotton costs

- CVC
Cheap Value Cotton (CVC) is the blend of Polyester and Cotton in 40:60 Ratios.

- CVS
Cheap Value Synthetic (CVS) is the blend of Polyester and Viscous in 40:60 Ratios.

Yarn Faults:

Yarn faults are as under

- Thick
- Thin
- Neps
- U % age
- Hairiness
- Slubs
- Contamination
- Baree

Spin Plan:

The spin plan for carded and combed yarn is a bit different because of difference in routs
for both yarns.

a)- Spin Plan for Carded

- Blow Room 14 Once per yard of lap

- Carded Sliver 58 Grains per yard
- Drawing Breaker 66 Grains per yard
- Drawing Finisher 65 Grains per yard
- Carded Roving 0.75 Hanks

b)- Spin Plan for Comber

- Drawing 58 Grains per yard

- Lap Former 900 Grains per yard
- Comber 66 Grains Per yard
- Comber Breaker 65 Grains Per yard
- Comber Finisher 65 Grains per yard
- Simplex 0.95 Hanks per yard

18
Only 10 – 20 % of total production of spinning is used for knitting in MT. The rest of the
yarn is exported to different countries.

KNITTING
Knitting in a process of fabrication with the help of needles. Needles turn the yarn thread
into loops and loops are interlaced by the sinkers or needles to make fabric.

There are two types of knitting;

1- Warp Knitting
2- Weft Knitting

1- Warp Knitting:

in warp knitting no of yarn stings fed to machine are equal to the machine needles. Needles
are fed yarn with beams. Sinkers are used for interlacing along with needles. The fabric
produced so is Flat.

2- Weft Knitting:

Single yarn thread is fed to all needles to weft knitting machines. Feeders are used to fed
the yarn to needles. The weft knitted fabric is produced by;

Circular Knitting
b)- Flat knitting

The weft knitting machines are of two types;

a)- Single Knit

b)- double Knit

a)- Single Knit:

In single knit, the machines have

- Single needle bed
- Sinkers
- Cylinders (Vertical Needles)

Single knit fabrics include

- S/J
- S/PQ
- D/PQ
- D/PQ (H.C)

19
 - FLEECE

b)- Double Knit:

In Double Knit the machines have

- Double Needle Bed

- Cylinder (Vertical Needles)
- Dial (Horizontal Needles)

Double Knit fabrics include

- RIB 1*1
- RIB 2*2
- INTER LOCK
- WAFFLE

Different Types of Fabric and Machine Parameters

Wales:

Vertical lines of loops in fabric are called Wales. These can be counted horizontally per
unit length. (WPI).

Courses:

Horizontal lines of loops in fabric are called as courses. These can be counted vertically
per unit of length. (CPI)

Course Length:

Length of yarn used in one round of fabric DIA. Is called course length.

Stitch Length:

Yarn used for making one loop is called S.L.

S.L. = Length of computed Wales /no of Wales

Increase in S.L. can increase Dia from 1-2 inches.

Feeder:

20
The point at which yarn is fed to the machine is called feeder. Production is increased by
increasing the feeders.

MPF:

Multiple feeding units made by CONI are the feeding units that feed yarn to machine. It is
used for constant supply of yarn to machine. It also controls the S.L. and Quality of Fabric.

DIA:

Dia is the diameter of the machine. Dia determines the width of fabric.

Gauge:

No. of needles per inch of cylinder and dial is called the gauge of the machine. If gauge is
increased, the quality of the fabric becomes fine and vice versa.

Count:

Count means the count of yarn. (Hanks Per Pond). Count effect the GSM of fabric. If count
is decreased the GSM is increased and vice versa.

GSM:

GSM is the grams per square meter of fabric. GSM is based on

- Gauge ( Gauge increases GSM Increases and vice versa)

- Count ( Count increases GSM decreases and vice versa)
- S.L. ( S.L. increases GSM decreases and vice versa)

Shrinkage:

Increase or decrease in width of fabric is named as shrinkage. Shrinkage depends upon the

- TPI of yarn ( TPI increases Shrinkage decreases and vice versa)

- S.L. ( S.L. tight Shrinkage decreases and vice versa).

Size:

Size means the width of fabric. It is measured in inches and depends upon the Dia of
machine.

Stripe:

21
Stripe is the repeative band (Different color yarn) in fabric. It is made by feeding colored
yarn at different feeders after specified intervals.

Auto Engineering Stripe:

It is stripe made on computerized machines.

Sinkers:

Sinker is a part of machine that brings the yarn to the needle and drops the loop of yarn to
make a stitch. Sinkers are used only in single knit machines.

Cylinder:

Cylinder is the rounded part of machine that contains vertical grooves for carrying the
needles. The distance between two grooves is called pitch and the no of grooves (no of
needles) per inch is named as gauge. Cylinder has the different diameters.

Dial:

It is part if double knit machine that contains horizontal grooves for needles. Dial is also of
different diameters and gauges.

Needles:

A needle has four parts;

- Head
- Litch
- Buds
- Stem

Increase in needles can increase in width of fabric while the Dia of machine is fixed. Four
types of needles (named as needle no1,2,3,4 based on buds) combine to make a set of
needles.

CAM:

CAM is a path engraved in metal in which needles move according to their Buds. A CAM
may have three kinds of paths to pass through (made by combining CAMMs).

- Knit ( Needles make a full loop when pass through the knit)
- Tuck ( Needles make a half loop when pass through the tuck)
- Miss ( Needles make no loop when pass through the miss)

22
Master Pulley:

Master pulley (wheel) controls the rpm of dial/cylinder/MPF. The gears of master wheel
effect the GSM, S.L. of fabric. RPM of dial/cylinder effects the production quantity in plus
of minus with increase or decrease respectively.

RPM:

It is the round / resolution per minute of cylinder or dial in knitting machines. Different
types of fabric are produced at different rpm as follows;

S/J  20-24 rpm

Fleece  25-28 rpm
Rib  15-22 rpm
S/J (L)  15-20 rpm
PQ  20-24 rpm

RPM has to be reduced with lycra attachment with machine.

Lycra Attachment:

It is a part of machine to feed lycra to feeders at a constant speed and stretch.

Take Down Winder:

Take winder is used to wind the fabric into rolls. Take down winder also creates the Take
Sown tension, which increases the distance between the Wales that ultimately effects the
GSM.

PROCESS OF FABRICATION

There are three sub-departments of knitting in MTM.

1- Knitting Co-ordination
2- Knitting
3- Clearance

1- Knitting Co-ordination:

23
Knitting Co-ordination department is involved in communicating the. P.O. parameters into
the machine parameters as defined by the R & D. and generating work orders according to
machine type and capacity. It is also responsible for in house or out source knitting
decision making depending upon the machine availability, time line, production capacity,
and machine parameters.

Production of fabric (main body and trims including; collars, cuffs, strings, twill tape, Rib,
etc) has the following flow;

PO  R & D (Parameter Approvals)  a)- In house b)- Out Source

a)- In House Work Orders  Production  Clearance

b)- Out Source Contract  Work Order  Production  Clearance

At this time MTM is out sourcing more than 50 % of its total production of fabric.

KNITTING UNITS

There are three units of circular knitting in MTM at present but new Units are under
construction and soon machines will be installed in these units. And, one unit is for flat
knitting. These units are named as knit 1, knit 2 and knit 3. There are more than 100
machines in these units including flat knit unit.

The production capacity of each machine varies at different parameters of fabric and RPM
of machine. The general formula for calculating the machine capacity is as under;

Production = no of needles * no of feeders * RPM * S.L. / 117.6 * count

We can also calculate no of needles, no of feeders, RPM, SL and Count at required

production from this formula.

Wastage:

Wastage % age is different for In House and Out Source production.

Out Source  2%
In House  1%
Stripe  3-5 %
Trims  4-7 %

24
Fabric Faults:

Fabric faults are categorized in two groups a)- Yarn Faults b)- Machine Faults
Here are some faults that occur due to both above mentioned categories.

- Oil Spots
- Heavy Yarn
- Lint Hole
- Thin Yarn
- Tuck Stitch
- Knot Hole
- Drop
- Run Down Broken Needle
- Tape Down / Tape off of wheel
- Winding Hole Caused by Broken Needle

MTM is producing 10 tons in house while out sourcing 12-15 tons.

CLEARANCE

The purpose of this department is to provide service to knitting units and fabric stores. The
fabric produced in house or out sourced is cleared and documented when it arrives at MTM
mills or from knitting units by the clearance department.

25
 PROCESSING IN MTM
Processing in MTM is consisted of

- Lot Section
- Dyeing
- Finishing
- R&D
- QC and QA

LOT SECTION IN PROCESSING

Lot section is responsible of making lots of fabric and issue these lots to the dyeing and
finishing machines according to their capacity and machine allocation plans.

The steps involved in the procedure of ,to making section are here elaborated one by one;

STEP ONE

Machine allocation plan

This is prepared on the Axel sheet. This plan is prepared by the PPC department in which
the dyeing and finishing paths of a PO are defined along with required parameters.

STEP TWO

Greg fabric requisition

After the availability of fabric in FMS lot section raises a requisition for grey fabric to
store with parameters as followed;

P.O. , Fabric, Col. Category, Size/Width, F. Req GSM, Rolls and Weight.

STEP THREE

Greyer Fabric Issue

Fabric is issued by the store to lot section against the grey fabric requisition with details of
following parameters;

26
R. Bar Code, P.O., floor, Count, S/W, GSM, Yarn Lot, Weight Qty.

STEP FOUR

The fabric is received by the lot section along with specified parameters as mentioned
above.

STEP FIVE

The fabric received by the lot section is then divided into lots with parameters as followed;

Lot NO, F. GSM, Purpose, Method, Color, Bar Code, Fabric, Size/ Width, GSM, F. GSM,
Count, Yarn Lot, Weight, Quantity and Clearance No.

STEP SIX

Lot Issued

Then those lots of fabric are issued for dyeing and finishing on job Cords. Job cards are
different in colors according to issued process. These are as followed.

FRESH ISSUE

Dyeing White paper

Finishing
Tabular Blue paper
Op.width Green paper

Sample

Dyeing Pink paper

Finishing Pink paper

REPROCESS ISSUE

Dyeing Yellow paper

Finishing

27
 Tabular Yellow paper
Op.Width Yellow paper

Sample

Dyeing Yellow paper

Finishing Yellow paper

Lot for reprocess are issued by weight section with difference in Bar Code or customer
code.

The Bar Code on Job Card and the worker’s card are scanned and then this lot is ready for
dyeing & finishing (Either Fresh or Reprocess)

Inventing , opening & stitching of roles into round form and Putting then into trellis is also
the responsibility of lot section.

28
 DYEING IN PROCESSING UNIT

DYEING:

Dyeing is a process to give shades (colors) to fabric .Different shades of colors are
obtained by the treatment of fabric with different type of dyes.

DYES:

Dyes are the chemical agent that gives different shades on treatment with fabric. These
dyes may be of different colors (shades) but these are mainly categorized into two groups
of shades.

1- Primary colors
2- Secondary colors

First all, we define what is a color or shade;

COLOUR:

A color is a specified range of wave length omitted by an object when light ray are thrown
at that object.

PRIMARY COLOR:

There are three shades of primary colors.

1- Yellow
2- Red
3- Blue

We can obtain any kind of color shade by mixing these three primary colors with different
ratios. e.g.

Yellow + red = orange

Yellow + red + blue = green

Yellow + red + blue = black

Yellow + red + blue = navy

29
SECONDRY COLOR:

There are also some secondary shades of colors which have been obtained by mixing the
primary colors. Some are as followed,

- Turquoise
- Blue R (reddish)
- Blue BRF
- Khaki
- Royal
- Black B

Now, we have the colors & fabric, but how we can treat both of these to obtain different
shaded fabric. This is done in the Dyeing Machines.

DYEING MACHINES

There are three types of dyeing machines in MTM which the process of Dyeing is being
carried down. These are as followed;

1- Eco Soft
2- Roto steam
3- Eco Soft Plus

ECO SOFT:

These are also called as environmental machines, these machines are used for

- Low temperature dyeing

- Full bleach
- Reactive

We can say that these are used for

(a) White (b) cotton dyeing

30
ROTO STEAM & ECO SOFT PLUS:

These types of machines are

- High temperature
- Used for blend dyeing (polyester)

We can say that these are used for

a) White b) Reactive dyeing & c) Disperse dyeing

Here, is the brief summary of machines and there allocation in terms of machine.
Type, machine ports, machine capacity & liquor Ratio.

MACHINE MACHINE TYPE MACHINE PORTS MACHINE CAP L:R

T1 Ecosoft 2 300 1:7
T2 Ecosoft 2 300 1:7
T3 Ecosoft 3 450 1:7
T4 Ecosoft 3 450 1:7
T5 Rotosteam 3 400-500 1:7
T6 Rotosteam 3 400-500 1:7
T7 Eco- Soft Plus 4 600 1:6
T8 Eco- Soft Plus 4 600 1:6
T9 Rotosteam 5 800 1:7
T10 Rotosteam 2 250 1:6
T11 Sampling 1 120 Controlled
T12 Rotosteam 5 800 1:7
T13 Eco- Soft Plus 6 100 1:10
T14 Eco- Soft Plus 4 600 1:6
T15 Eco- Soft Plus 6 1000 1:10

T16 Sampling 1 35 Controlled

T17 Eco- Soft Plus 4 600 1:6
T18 Eco- Soft Plus 4 600 1:6

31
Machine Parts:

Here are some machine parts and their functionality.

Side tank + Feeding Valve:

Dyes and chemicals are fed to the machine from this part.

Nozzle and Nozzle sizer:

This is the part from where fabric is fed to the machine and Nozzle size is adjusted
according to the heaviness of the fabric e.g.

S/J 5-6
Fleece 1-2

Winch Motor:

To rotate the fabric during the dyeing process.

Steam valve:

To control the temperature of the machine.

Main Drum:

Where the dyeing process is actually performed.

Main Pump:

To run the machine.

Button Adjustments:

9 Side tank draining

13 Side tank fresh water
41 Hot water
43 Fresh water loading
73 Draining
63 Wringing

32
DIFFERENT MACHINE PARAMETERS

Liquor Ratio:

The ratio between the water and fabric according to their masses in a machine is known as
liquor ratio. For example 1:7 or 1:6
Where 1 indicates the water in and 6 indicates the fabric.

Water level indicator:

Water level indicators are attached with each machine on which the level of the water in
the machine is indicated by a pointer on scale. Two readings are taken from the level; first
reading before loading the fabric; second reading after loading the fabric.

Motor speed:

The winch motor speed on each port is kept constant with each other on a machine, while
motor speed varies for different fabrics as;

S/J 150- 180 rpm

H/J or Fleece 150- 200 rpm

Pressure of port:

The range of port pressure is from 0.5 to 2 PSI and varies with heaviness of fabric.

Pressure of main pump:

Dyes and chemicals are pumped and sprinkled in the machine through this pump.

TYPES OF DYEING

There are different types of dyeing as followed.

1- Basic Dyeing ( For Wools)

2- Pigment Dyeing ( For Garment’s lustrous Look)
3- Acid dyeing ( For Acrylic apparel dyeing)
4- Sulpher dyeing ( For rich black dyeing of cotton)
5- Full bleach ( For white and wash)
6- Polyester dyeing ( For cotton and Polyester Dyeing)
7- Reactive dyeing ( For cotton dyeing)

33
 The first four types of dyeing are not followed in MTM. The other three processes of
dyeing are being carried down which are being elaborated here.

LOT MAKING AND ISSUEING FOR DYEING

- PPC department allocates the lots of fabric for dyeing according to machines capacities.
- After receiving the fabric and lot allocation plan the lot making department issues lots for
dyeing according to
a- machine number
b- lab dip number
c- customer number
d- machine code(bar code)
- Lots are received in dyeing on work order. Lots are received after the
a- work order scan
b- worker card scan
- Lots are then loaded on machines in loops of fabric.

FULL BLEACH ( WHITE AND WASH)

Full bleach is carried down in following steps.

a)- De-oiling:

Major oil lines, oil spots and impurities are removed in this process. Following chemicals
are used;
- Stainless 2000 (for severe oil lines)
1 % of Lot wt.
- Sando clean ( minor oil lines)
0.5 % of lot wt.
- Delta clean (minor oil lines)
0.25 % of lot wt.
Temp and Timing: 50 C for 20 mints

b)- Full bleach:

following chemicals and steps are involved as;

- Jet clean
- Caustic soda
- Stabilizer
- Hydrogen peroxide
- Optical brighteners (Photince CXT or Leacophor)

34
 Temp and Timing: 95 C for 45-60 mint

- Draining
- Hot wash at 60-80 C for 10 mint
- Draining
- Cold wash at 35 C for 10 mint

c)- Neutralization:

to neutralize the fabric at PH 7 the chemicals and process involved as;

- Acetic Acid 1.5 % of lot wt

At 50 C for 2mint
- Draining
- Cold wash at 35 C for 10 mint
- Draining
- Off load

PC DYEING

PC is blend of polyester and cotton with the following ratios used in MTM.

P : C
20 : 80
30 : 70
35 : 65

that is why PC is dyed in two steps. In first step polyester is dyed and in second step cotton
is dyed.

The steps or procedures followed in polyester dyeing is as follows.

a)- De-oiling:

Same as mentioned earlier defined in full bleach.

b)- Disperse Dyeing:

The steps followed are as;

- H.T dyeing
Disperse dyeing is a high temperature dyeing at 135 C for 45 mint. Under
reduced pressure in acidic media at PH 5.
- Acetic Acid 2-2.5 %of lot wt.
- Buffer

35
 Ammonium sulfate is used as buffer. 2% of lot wt. It fixes the dye in fibers
of polyester.
- Cooling up to 80-90 C
- Sample put in sulphuric acid to get polyester skeleton.
- Skelton dyeing
- Draining (if shades matched)
- Cold wash at 35 C for 10 mints.
- Draining
- Reduction and cleaning
- Off load

The second step cotton is dyed which is called Reactive Dyeing Process.

REACTIVE DYEING

a)- De-oiling:

Same as already been defined in full bleach process.

b)- Half Bleach:

the chemicals used in half bleach are as;

- Jet clean
- Caustic soda
- Stabilizers
- Hydrogen peroxide

Temp and Timing: 95 C for 45 mints.

- Draining
- Hot wash at 60-80 C for 10 mints.

- Draining
- Cold wash at 35 C for 10 mints.
- Draining

c)- Neutralization:

neutralization process is completed either by

Alkali: - Soda Ash (weak)

- Caustic Soda

Acid: - Acetic Acid

36
 - Pharmic Acid
- Sulphuric Acid

PH for wash and white is = 11-12

PH for dyeing is = 7

d)- Absorbency test:

The power of water to penetrate in the fabric is called as absorbency of the fabric.
Absorbency test is carried down on a sample of fabric ( Half Bleached and Neutralized) for
further reactive dyeing process.

e)- Reactive dyeing:

This process is called reactive dyeing because the dye molecules react chemically with
cellulose in this process. The following steps are taken in reactive dyeing at 60 C.

PH Check ( PH of fabric should be at 7.

Anti Creasing agents / lubricants (To reduce the friction ) 1% of lot wt.
Rocco Line Chemical ( To decrease the rope marks)
Color Adding
Yellow %
Green % WEIGHED AMOUNT
Blue %
Mixing of colors with water
Either from Machine
Or Fresh water a
And this mixture is injected into machine through side tank.
Common salt (it is added in 20-80 mint) for bonding of dye molecules with fabric fibers.
Soda Ash ( to fix the colures) is fed in 30 mints.
Caustic soda ( Only when Depth of color is required)
Shade Check – First Shade after 15 mint
- Second Shade after 35 mints
- Third shade after 50 mints.
Colors are fixed in this sequence RedBlueYellow
Neutralization ( As already been defined above)

f)- Finishing Process:

in finishing process of reactive dyeing following steps are taken;

- Soaping
For removal of excessive dyes at 90C for 10 mint
- Draining
- Hot Wash at 80 C For 10 mints.
- Draining

37
- Cold wash at 35 C For 10 mints.
- Softener Application
To give the fabric a better hand feel and the chemicals used for this
purpose are as followed;
- Tubingal –UGS with acetic acid at PH 7
Temp and Timing: 50 C for 20 mints.
- Draining
- Off Load

This was the whole process of dyeing carried down in MTM mills Division.

38
 FINISHING IN PROCESSING
The processes of giving the desired look to the fabric and to prepare it for cutting is
called as finishing.

There are different kinds of problems that can be controlled in finishing process. And on
the other hand these faults may happen in finishing process if this process is not handled
carefully. These faults are as under;

- Width problem
- GSM problem
- Shrinkage
- Tourquing
- Bowing
- Calendar line

Different finishing routs are being followed in MTM. These are as under

a)- Open width

b)- Tubular
c)- Tumble

a)- Open Width Route:

The open width route consists of following machines.

- Slitting Machine
- Dryer
- Compactor

Slitting Machine:

we have to slit it side wise depending up on the customer requirement. For this purpose a
slitter machine, Bianco, is used. On this machine the fabric is slit sidewise. Slitter is used
to cut the fabric into open form along with the slit line or drop needle line.

Dryer:

This machine is used to dry the fabric, to reduce its width and to apply the softener. Mild
silicon and silicon softeners are applied in this machine. The speed of machine varies from
0 to 50meter /minute.

39
Compactor:

In Compactor machine the fabric is pressed and its shrinkage, width and bowing is
controlled. The usual speed of the machine is 7.5 meter/minute.

Besides the above-mentioned open width route there are two other routes, which are
applied depending up on the customer requirement and kind of fabric. These are the
peaching and raising.

Raising is done for both the open and tubular fleece and peaching for the sewed fleece and
single jersey fabric.

b)- Tubular Route:

The tubular route consists of following machines.

- Santa stretch (stretch machine)
- Santa shrink (dryer machine)
- Fab cone
- Calender

The steps involved are as under;

- De-twisting
- Wetting (water dipping)
- Squeezing (squeeze the water)
- Wetting (softener dipping)
- Squeezing (squeeze the softener)
- Expansion
- Overfeeding

Santa Stretch machine is basically used to apply the softener and open the width up to the
required level. If fabric has different moisture then pickup of softener will also be different
and color/shade variation should occur. While overfeeding is to feed more fabric behind
the machine to get required length of fabric, because during expansion and to get required
width the length going to be short, to cover it, overfeeding is necessary.

Santa Shrink (dryer machine):

There are two types of these machines

- 2 Chambers Dryer
- 4 Chambers Dryer

Two Chambers dryer is steam operated and is computerized. Programs feed according to
the fabric type like, single jersey, fleece or interlock. Instructions can be changed only by

40
one touch according to the fabric. Each and every function in this machine is controlled
automatically.

4 chambers dryer is manually gas operated and has no option to store different program
and each program is feed according to fabric type. Santa Shrink is used for the dryness and
shrinkage of the fabric up to the level where it can maximum shrinks. The functions
performed by the machine are to dry and shrink the fabric.

c)- Tumble Route:

Tumble machine is for the shrinkage control further. Tumble is done after semi drying &
semi dry fabric is never entering into the compactor. Steam is working in tumble machine
to shrink the fabric up to maximum limit. From here the fabric is transferred to the final
quality inspection.

41
 R & D IN PROCESSING UNIT
R & D department in processing is of great importance. There are two sub departments in
R&D

1- Sampling
2- Reprocessing

Sampling:

In sampling, research work is done about the samples. Samples are made and sent to
customers according to their specifications.

Reprocessing:

Reprocessing portion of R & D plays an important role in the production. It is also named
as intensive care unit (ICU) of processing because many faults of fabric are repaired by
reprocessing in this part.

Purpose of R & D:

R & D is basically a service department which is providing service to knitting, dyeing and
finishing. It is also playing a role of co-ordination with merchandisers of apparel division.

Process flow of R & D is as follows;

Garments Order  Lab R & D  R & D Yarn demand  Knitting  Color recipe 

Different shades submitted to buyers  Option Approved  Recipe (lab Dip)  Planning

of lot  Dyeing  Sample  Sample Approved  Parameter Approvals  Production (

Knitting, Dyeing and Finishing)

COSTING IN R & D

There are three factors accounted for costing

a- Dyes + Chemicals
b- Energy costs
c- Over heads

42
a- Dyes and chemicals

For example
Caustic soda = **** RS
Hydrogen per oxide = **** RS
Red = **** RS
Yellow = **** RS
---------------------------------------------------
Total Cost = ***** RS

Total Cost / Lot Wt = ***** RS Cost / Kg -------- A

b- Energy

There are two energy sources – Thermal

- Electrical

Total Cost / Lot Wt. = ****** RS Cost / Kg --------- B

c- Over Heads

Over heads include - Labor

- Maintenance
- Service Dept.
- Depreciation

Total Cost / Total Production= ******* RS Cost / KG -------- C

AVG COST PER KG = A + B + C = ****** RS

PROCESSING FUNCTION IN R & D

R & D department is involved in two functions mainly.

1- Piece Dyeing
2- Fabric Dyeing

Fabric dyeing is related with large scale production in processing. Here is the elaboration
of processing in the textile.

43
 Textile

Woven Knitting

Yarn Dyeing Fabric Dyeing Piece Dyeing

Processing R&D

In Dyeing the basic thing to control is color shading. The basic properties of color shades
are as followed;

1- Tone
2- Brightness
3- Hue

There are three primary colors

a)- Red b)- Blue c)- Yellow

By the combination of these primary colors, there can be made different shades of colors.

Red

Reddish Reddish

Olive Purple

Yellowish Bluish

Yellow Blue

Yellow Navy Bluish

 At the red point the tone will be reddish

 At the yellow point the tone will be yellowish
 At the blue point the tone will be bluish

44
2- Brightness:

Brightness shows the color property of being

- Brighter
- Darker

3- Hue:

Hue can be defined as “ Color contribution” or “Concentration of Color.” e.g.

a)- Red 2% b)- Red 4%

Blue 1% Blue 2%
Total Hue 3% Total Hue 6%

Although the ratio of mixing the Red with the Blue is same in both cases but the hue of
colors is different each time.

Here, in MTM, the main function of R & D is Piece Dyeing, which is elaborated here;

PIECE DYEING

There are two types of machines used for piece dyeing in R & D.

a)- Piece Dyeing Machines ( Dyeing)

b)- Tumblers ( Finishing)

Piece dyeing machines are of small production capacity. Following steps are involved in
piece dyeing.

- Grey Fabric Knitting

- Garment Stitching
- Scovering/ De-oiling
>Detergent -1- 1.5 % for 30 mint at 70 C
>Draining
>Hot wash
>Draining
>Cold Wash
- Catenization with catenizing agent1.5%at 50C for30min
- Draining
- Common Salt
Common salt works as a carrier of dye molecules from
liquor to fabric. This process is carried down at
o Room Temp.

45
 o For 15 mint. Amounting to
o 15-17 % depending upon the depth of shade.
- Dyes Stuff Addition
Dye % vary depending upon the color shades at 60-90 C for
45 mint.
- Binder
Different dye stuffs have different modes of attachment with
fabric.
Chromopher( Coloring Group same in all dyes)
Dye
BridgingGroup (Different in All Dyes)
Binder has the ability to fix dye molecules on fabric.
- Draining
- Hot Wash
- Cold Wash

PIECE DYEING MACHINES

There are three types of machines

- Gaston County “G”

- Thiese “T”
- Winch “W”

Beside these machines there are two machines of garment wash “GW”.

Thiese and Gaston county machines are of light temperature, high pressure and with
controlled liquor ratio. (Max Temp 135C)
While winch machines are atmospheric machines with low temperature (95 C Max) and at
least with 1:10 Liquor ratio for reactive dye stuffs.
Garment wash machines are also atmospheric with Max 95 C.

Winch machines are mother of dyeing machines. Here is the list of machines and their
capacities.

Machine Name Capacity(KG) Ports

T11 120 1
T16 35 1
G1 150 2
G2 150 2
G3 100 2
G4 35 1
G5 35 1
G6 35 1

46
W1 60 Open
W2 130 …
W3 130 …
W4 20 …
W5 8 …
W6 15 …

W7 15 …
W8 35 …
W9 20 …

GW1 20 …
GW2 100 …

GARMENT WASH PROGRAM

T add artificial look and characteristics garment wash program is carried on after stitching
fabric into garments. Garment wash program is carried down in “GW” machines. The
Garment wash program is as followed.

1- Stone wash:

treatment of fabric with special stones in the GW for 2-6 hours, to give fabric a shiny look.

2- Enzyme Wash:

Special enzyme are used to treat fabric to give extra shine to it.

3- Silk Wash:

softener treatment to give fabric softening effect.

4- Sand Wash:

Extra softness and shine is given to fabric in this type of wash.

5- Soda Wash:

In soda wash treatment an old look is given to fabric.

6- Bleach Wash:

47
Bleach wash is applied on fabric to produce color patches on fabric and uneven floor
faintness on fabric.

Actually, R & D is the department to produce fine and high quality production in MTM.

48
 QUALITY CONTROL AND QUALITY ASSURANCE
Quality may be defined as the set and required parameters by the customer. It is quite
difficult task to fulfill the customer requirements. To assure this thing MTM has two
departments;

a)- Quality Control Department

b)- Quality Assurance Department

a)- Quality Control Department:

This is the department which can be said as an agent from MTM side which checks the
required parameters and recommends solution at each level of process. It has two sections;
Grey Section, which checks the fabric for faults, attaches bar codes and clearance no;
Inline Section, which checks the finished and dyed fabric for faults according to 20 point
system.

b)- Quality Assurance Department:

This department can be said as agent from the customer side, which audits the QC checked
fabric and give a positive or negative opinion whether the fabric is according to the
customer requirements or not. This department does not suggest any thing.

LAB IN PROCESSING

To assist both of these departments, there is a LAB in MTM. Where different kinds of test
are applied according to the requirements of QC or QA.

The test applied in Lab are as follows;

a)- Shrinkage:

Length wise or Width wise relaxation or contraction of fabric is called as shrinkage.

b)- Stitch Length:

Yarn consumed to make a loop of fabric is called as S.L.

S.L. = No. of loops / yarn length

c)- GSM:

Grams per Square inch is also calculated in LAB.

49
d)- Courses/ Wales

Courses and Wales per inch are calculated with the help of eye glass.

e)- Fabric Width:

Fabric width is calculated with the help of scale.

f)- Washing Fastness:

Color fastness of dyed fabric is checked on a piece of white fabric while washed together.

g)- Dry and Wet Rubbing Test:

Color bleeding of dyed fabric is checked on white fabric.

h)- Light Fastness:

Color fastness in the presence of day light or any other artificial lights is checked.

i)- Scorching Test:

Scorching mean color bleeding while dyed fabric is heated with white fabric (by ironing
both fabrics together).

j)- Count:

Hanks per pond are calculated as

Count = L*5.9/w Where L is length in centimeters and W is weight in

milligrams.

k)- Burst Strength:

Strength of fabric measured in Ponds per square inch. (PSI)

l)- Blend % age:

Blend percentage of cotton with polyester, viscous, nylon and with any other synthetic
fibers is checked by dissolving either component in the relevant acid.

m)- Perspiration:

Color fastness with alkaline or acidic perspiration is checked.

50
n)- Pilling Test:

Pilling on fabric is checked after revolving fabric in a machine for 18000 cycles.

o)- Tourquing:

De-shaping of fabric is checked after many or required washes.

p)- Hot Wet Press:

Dry and wet fabric is heated by the iron for 15 seconds and tested for fastness.

q)- Absorbency Test:

After half bleach and neutralization in reactive dyeing the absorbency test is applied to
check the water picking capacity or power of the fabric.

r)- PH Test:

PH is tested after finishing process. The PH should be 7 after finishing.

s)- Flam ability Test:

Butane gas flam is used to test the flam ability of the fabric.

t)- Stretch and Recovery test:

Resistance of fabric against the stretch is measured after stretching the fabric.

The parameters of recipe approved by the LAB can be converted to Big quantities for large
scale production as under;

Lab to Production = W*P/C

Where W = Weight of Fabric

P = Percentage of Color
C = Concentration of Color / Dyes/ Chemicals

51
 HR DEPARTMENT IN MTM
HR department in MTM is involved in different types of human resource development and
human resource development activities. Here are the activities of HR department in MTM;

1- Recruitment
2- Training and Development
3- Compensation
4- Performance Appraisals
5- Employee Welfare
6- Rewards and Punishments
7- Retiring and Termination Benefits

1- Recruitment:

HR Department in MTM regarding recruitment is almost online up to the middle level

management and has the following procedure;

- Approved strength in each department

- Invitation of vacant or new position applications
- Scrutinizing of applications.
- Test including intelligence and aptitude tests
- Interviews in panel form

2- Training and Development:

The training and development process in MTM is very strong and has following setup

A- Indoor Training

- Apprentices
- Trainee supervisors
- Trainee Operators
- Trainee Engineers
- Management Trainees
- Trainee Officers

B- Out Door Training

- Training in institutions
- Meetings and reviews

3- Compensation

52
MTM has setup for workers as

- Market rate
- Overtime
- Incentives
- Vehicles
- Accommodation

4- Rewards and Punishment:

MTM gives in terms of rewards

- Appreciation
- Cash Prizes
- Promotions

In MTM for the control purpose there are also punishments

- Disciplinary Actions
- Show cause notices
- Suspension
- Terminations
- Charge sheets
- Fines

5- Performance Appraisals:

Promotions in MTM have very fair methodology. Personality and job related traits are
evaluated at regular basis. Best performance results in good rewards in MTM.

6- Employee Welfare:

There are many employee benefits policies being followed in MTM. Some of them are as
follows;

- Health insurance
- Social Security
- EOBI
- 5% of Profit
- Accommodation
- Transportation
- Canteen and Mess
- Leave Encashment

53
7- Retiring and Termination:

Gratuity and provident fund is being maintained for the retiring personals in MTM.

HR department in MTM is almost computerized and includes

- HRMS ( Human Resource Management System)

- GMS (Gate Management System)
- JMS ( Job Management System) (Yet to be Introduced)
- JOB Bank (Yet to be Introduced)

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 IT DEPARTMENT AT MTM MILLS DIVISION
MTM is at Almost Pure Dot Com position and we can say that IT has been so much
flourished in MTM that it will be difficult to survive for MTM without IT at this time.
Most of the departments have been computerized except Finance Department.

The systems developed by the IT Department includes;

- HRMS (Human Resource Management System)

- GMS (Gate Management System)
- FMS (Fabric Management System)

And they are planning now for the following systems at urgent bases;

- JMS (Job Management System)

- JOB Bank ( For online Jobs applications)
- AIS (Accounting Information System)

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 MATERIAL MANAGEMNET DEPARTMENT IN MTM

Material management to insure control the safety stock to insure the regular supply.

The stores that are maintained by this department are as follows;

- Spinning ware house

- Yarn ware house
- Grey fabric ware house
- Rejection ware house
- Cotton waste ware house
- Dyes and chemical ware house
- Finished fabric ware house

The process of material management involves the following steps;

Purchase Requisition  Submitted to W/H  Purchase Department Purchased 

Material Arrives at Mills  Quality Inspection  Goods Receipt Note  Material

Received in Store + Goods Receipt Not  Store Issue Requisition  Purchase Demand

Checking  Material Issued to Demanded Department.

The conditions of stocks at stores are miserable. But in my opinion, these conditions are
the result of miss planning of PPC, Knitting and Lot section Department along with ware
house management.

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 ADMIN DEPARTMENT IN MTM
The admin department is managing the Security, Accommodation, Transportation,
Construction, and Maintenance of premises, Mess and Cleaning and Sweeping.

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 FINANCE DEPARTMENT IN MTM
In my opinion there is a stock and inventory controlling department at Mills division of
MTM, which is named as finance department or I can say that it is only a part of accounts
department not the finance department.
This department has three sections.

- Spinning
- Knitting
- Dyeing

Spinning:

Following reports are prepared in the spinning section:

- Daily Cotton Stock Report

- Daily Yarn Stock Report
- Daily Management Report
This report is reported to the Finance Manager (Head Office and Mills), Accounts Manager
(Head Office), and Accounts Officer (Head Office) for the submission to the Textile
Commissioner (Bureau of Statistics, Lahore).

Knitting:

In the knitting section following reports are prepared;

- Date Wise Yarn Receiving Detail

- Date Wise Yarn Returned from Outside
- Date Wise Yarn Returned to Outside
- Date Wise Grey Fabric Received from Party
- Date Wise Yarn Issuance Detail

Dyeing:

In the dyeing section, the reports prepared are as followed:

- Party wise receiving summary

- Party wise issuance summary
- Party wise production summary
- Party wise issuance summary

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Besides, above mentioned reports following documents are also maintained;

- Vouchers
- Bill for Daily Expenses
- Payment to Employees
- Collection and Deposit of Cash from Head Office

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 PROCESS FLOW IN APPAREL DIVISION OF MTM

Following steps are involved in all processes of apparel division;

PPC merchandiser  Communication with customer  Proto Samples  Fit Samples 

Size Samples  Pre Production  Approvals of Fabric, Color, Lab Dips  Order

Received with Time Line  Fabric PO Forwarded to Mills Fabric Arrives from Mills

 QC Checking  Fabric Received in store  Feeding in AMS  Cutting Planning 

Fabric Requisition  Job Cards  Spread of Fabric in Layers  QC and QA Checking

 Cutting According to Cutting Plan  Bundling ( Roll To Roll & Lot Wise) 

Induction  Stitching  In line Inspection (QC & QA) Final Inspection  Super

Final Inspection (QC & QA)  Packing and Packaging (Assorted or Solid; color wise or

size wise)  Dispatching to customer

Thanks.

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